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A12718 England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland described and abridged with ye historic relation of things worthy memory from a farr larger voulume done by Iohn Speed.; Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine. Abridgements Speed, John, 1552?-1629.; Keere, Pieter van den, ca. 1571-ca. 1624, engraver.; Camden, William, 1551-1623. Britannia. 1627 (1627) STC 23035; ESTC S103213 178,357 376

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This City was first won from the Britaine 's by Cheulin the first King of the West-Saxons about the yeare of Christ 570. and afterwards vnder the Mercians it flourished with great honour where Of●●k King of Northumberland by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia founded a most stately Monastery of Nunnes whereof Kineburgh Eadburgh and Eue Queenes of the Mercians were Prioresses successiuely each after other 7 Edelsted a most renowned Lady sister to King Edward the elder in this Citie built a faire Church wherein her selfe was interred which being ouerthrowne by the Danes was afterwards rebuilt and made the Cathedrall of that See dedicated vnto the honour of S. Peter In this Church the vnfortunate Prince King Edward the second vnder a Monument of Alablaster doth lye who being murdered at Barkley Castle by the crueltie of French Isabel his wife was there intombed And not farre from him another Prince as vnfortunate namely Robert Curthole the eldest sonne of William the Conquerour lyeth in a painted woodden Tombe in the middest of the Quire whose eyes were pluckt out in Cardiffe Castle wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six yeares with all contumelious indignities vntill through extreame anguish he ended his life And before any of these in this Citie say our British Historians the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred and before his dayes the Britaines Aruiragus The graduation of this County I obserue from this Citie whence the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 52 and 14. minutes and in Longitude from the West 18. and 5. minutes 8 The other Citie is Pristow fa●re but not very ancient built vpon the Riuers Auon and Froome for trade of Merchandize a second London and for beautie and account next vnto Yorke This Citie standeth partly in this Countie and partly in Sommerset shire but being a Countie of it selfe will acknowledge subiection to neither 9 A Citie more ancient hath beene Ci●cester by Ptolomie called Corinium by Antonine Duro●●●no●ium by Giraldus Passerum Vi●em The Sparrowes Citie vpon a flying report that Gu●mund a Tyrant from Africks besieging this Citie tyed fire vnto the wings of Sparrowes who lighting in the Towne vpon light matter set flame vpon all The circuit of whose wal● extended two miles about wherein the Consular Port or wayes of the Romans met and crossed each other This Citie was wonne from the Britaine 's by Cheulin first King of the West-Saxons afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians and lastly by the Danes vnder Gurmund the former no doubt mistaken for him wherein a rable of them kept the space of a yeare Anno 879. and neuer since inhabited according to the circuit of her walles 10 Places of memorable note are these the Iland Al●ey neere vnto Glocester wherein Edmund Iron-side the English and Canutus the Dane after many battles and bloud fought in single Combat hand to hand alone vntill they compounded for the Kingdomes partition Barkley Castle where King Edward the second was thorow his fundament runne into his bowels with a red burning Spit Tewkesbury the fatall period of King Henry the sixt his gouernment and the wound of the Lancastrian Cause for in a Battle there fought in Anno 1471. Prince Edward the onely Sonne of King Henry had his braines dashed out in a most shamefull manner the Queene his mother taken prisoner and most of their fauorites slaine and beheaded And at Alderley a little Towne standing eight miles from the Seuerne vpon the hilles to this day are found Cockles Periwincles and Oysters of solid stone which whether they haue beene Shel-fish and liuing creatures or else the sports of Nature in her workes let the Naturall Philosophers dispute of and judge 11 The places of pietie set apart from other worldly Seruices and dedicated to religious vses by the deuotions of Princes erected in this Shire were Tewkesbury Deorhust Glocester Minching Barkley Kinswood Circester Winchcombe and Hales which last was built with great cost by Richard Earle of Cornwall King of the Romans wherein himselfe and his Dutchesse were interred Their son Earle Edmund brought out of Germany the bloud of Hales supposed and said to be part of that which Christ shed vpon his Crosse In this place with great confluence and deuotions of Pilgrimage it was sought to and worshipped till time proued it a meere counterfeit when the glorious light of the Gospell reuealed to eye-sight such grosse Idolat●ies and the skirts of Superstition were turned vp to the shew of her owne shame 12 Dukes and Earles that haue borne the title of Glocester the first of euery Family art by their Armes and Names expressed euer fatall to her Dukes though the greatest in bloud and birth The first was Thomas Woodstocke sonne to King Edward the third who in Ca●●is was smoothered in a Feather-bed to death The second was Humfrey brother to King Henry the fift by the fraudulent practise of the malignant Cardinall and Queene made away at S. Edmundsbury And the last was Richard brother to King Edward the fourth who by the iust hand of God was cut off in Battle by King Henry the seauenth HEREFORD-SHIRE CHAPTER XXIIII HEREFORD-SHIRE formerly accounted within the limits of Wales lyeth circulated vpon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shire vpon the East with Maluerne Hils is parted from Glocester-shire vpon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire and vpon the West in part with the Hatterall Hilles is diuided from Brecknok and the rest confined with Radnorshire 2 This Counties Climate is most healthfull and temperate and Soyle so fertile for Corne and Cattle that no place in England yeeldeth more or better conditioned sweet Riuers running as veynes in the body doe make the Corne bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be tearmed the Gilden Vale and for Waters Wooll and Wheate doth contend with Nilus Colchos and Egypt such are Lemster Irchenfeild the bankes of Wye Luge and Frome 3 The ancient people knowne to the Romanes whose power they well felt before they could subdue them were the Silures placed by Ptolemie in this tract and branched further into Radnor Brecknok Monmouth and Glamorgan-shires at this day by vs called South-Wales and by the Welsh Debeubarth Their Originall as Tacitus coniectureth by their site coloured countenances and curled haire was out of Spaine and as both he and Plinie describes them were fierce valiant and impatient of seruitude which well they shewed vnder Cara●●cus their Captaine and nine yeares scourge to the Roman assaulters for whose onely Conquest and that made by treachery the Victor in Rome triumphed with more then a vsuall Aspect and with so equall an hand bare the Scoale of Resistance that their owne Writers euermore terme it a dangerous Warre For the Legion of Marius Valens they put to flight and that with such hauock of the Associates that Osterius the Lieutenant of Britaine for very griefe gaue vp his ghost and Veranius vnder Nero assaulted them in vaine But when Vespasian was
Market-place doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rockes in this Towne are seene and those vnder the Castle of an especiall note one for the story of Christs Passion engrauen in the Walls and cut by the hand of Dauid the second King of Scots whilst he was therein detained prisoner Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the non-age of King Edward the Third euer since beating the name of Mortimers Hole these haue their staires and seuerall roomes made artifically euen out of the Rockes as also in that hill are dwelling houses with winding staires windowes chimneys and roome aboue roome wrought all out of the solide Rocke The Castle is strong and was kept by the Danes against Burthred Ethelred and Elfred the Mercian and West-Saxon Kings who together laid their siege against it and for the further strength of the Towne King Edward surnamed the Elder walled it about whereof some part as yet remaines from the Castle to the West-gate and thence the foundation may be perceiued to the North where in the midst of the way ranging with this banke stands a gate of Stone and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceiued the rest to the Riuer and thence to the Castle are built vpon and thereby buried from sight whose circuit as I tooke it extendeth two thousand one hundred and twentie pases 7 In the Warres betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empresse by Robert Earle of Glocester these Wells were east downe when also the Towne it selfe suffered the calamitie of fire but recouered to her former estate hath since increased in beautie and wealth and at this day is gouerned by a Maior and sixe Aldermen clad in Scarlet two Sheriffes two Chamberlaines a Towne-clerke and sixe Sergeants with Maces their Attenders whose position hath the Pole eleuated fiftie three degrees 25. minutes in Latitude and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes This Towne hath beene honoured by these Princes titles and these Princes dignified with the Earledome of Nottingham whose seuerall Armes and Names are in the great Map expressed Religious houses that haue beene erected and now suppressed in the compasse of this Countie chiefly were Newsted Lenton Shelford Southwell Thurgarton Blith Welbeck and Radford in Nottingham the White and Gray Fryers besides a little Chappell dedicated to Saint Iohn All which shew the deuotions of those former times which their remembrance may moue if not condemne vs that haue more knowledge but farre lesse pietie DARBY-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXIII DARBY-SHIRE lyeth inclosed vpon her North parts with Yorke-shire vpon the East with Nottingham-shire vpon the South with Leicester-shire and vpon the West is parted with the Riuers Doue and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires 2 It is in forme somewhat triangle though not of any equall distance growing from her narrow South-point still wider and in the North is at the broadest for from Stretton neere the head of Mese to New-Chapell seated neere the head of Derwent the two extreames from North to South are thirtie eight miles but from the Shire-Oakes vnto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt the broadest part of all this Shire is not fully twentie nine the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirtie miles 3 The ayre is good and very healthfull the sile is rich especially in her South and East parts but in the North and West is hilly with a blacke and mossie ground both of them fast handed to the Ploughers paines though very liberall in her other gifts whose natures thus dissenting the Riuer Derwent doth diuide asunder that taketh course thorow the heart or midst of this Countie The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults were the Coritani whom Ptolemie disperseth thorow Northampton-shire Leicester Rutland Lincolne Nottingham and this Shire who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula Lieutenant in this Prouince for Claudius the Emperour But Romes Empire failing in Britaine by the intestine Warres among themselues the Saxons a more sauage and fearefull Nation soone brought it vnder their subiection and made this a Prouince vnto their Mercians Kingdome whom the West-Saxons first wanne and againe lost to the Normans 5 It is stored with many Commodities and them of much worth for besides Woods and Cattle Sheepe and Corne euery where ouer-spreading the face of this Countie the Mill-stone Crystall and Allablas●er the Mines of Pit-coale Iron and Lead are of great price whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie who writeth that in Britaine in the very crust of the ground without any deepe digging is gotten so great store of Lead that there is a Law expresly made of purpose forbidding men to make more then to a certaine stint Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountaines and melted into Sowes to no small profit of the Countrey There is found also in certaine veines of the earth Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium and the Al●thmists hold in great esteeme 6 Places for commerce or memorable note the first is Darby the Shire-Towne called by the Danes De●aby seated vpon the West banke of Derwent where also a small Brooke rising Westward runneth thorow the Towne vnder nine Bridges before it meets with her farre greater Riuer Derwent which presently it doth after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the South-East of the Towne But a Bridge of more beautie built all of Free-stone is passed ouer Derwent in the North-East of the Towne whereon standeth a faire stone Chapell and both of them bearing the names of S. Maries fiue other Churches are in this Towne the chiefest whereof is called A●hallowes whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautifull and high was built onely at the charges of young men and maids as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same vpon euery square of the Steeple Among the miserable desolations of the Danes this Towne bare a part but by Lady Ethelfleda was againe repaired and is at this day in●orporated with the yearely gournment of two Bailiffes elect out of twentie-foure brethren besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsell a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Mace whose Graduation is obserued from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples and from the first point in the West 19. degrees 2. scruples 7 Little-Chester by the Romish Mony there daily found seemeth to haue beene ancient and that a Colonie of the Roman Souldiers there lay Yet of farre greater fame was Repandunum now Repton where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen slaine at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subiects was interred and whence Burthred the last King of that people was expulsed with his Queene Ethelswith by the rage of the Danes after twentie two yeares raigne But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne the memoriall of Englishmens great valour where in that Castle was kept Prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon taken captiue in the Battle of Agincourt
and so called in memory of the most famous Dauid Bishop of Meneura was in great esteeme where in a frequent Synod there holden he refuted the Pelagian Heresie sprung vp againe in Britaine both by the authoritie of holy Scripture and also by miracle as is reported while the earth whereon he stood and preached rose vp vnto a certaine height vnder his feet 8 The Shires diuision for businesses belonging either to the Crowne or Common-wealth is into fiue Hundreds wherein are seated for 〈…〉 and sixtie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine and daily seruice CAERMARDEN-SHIRE CHAPTER VI. CAERMARDEN-SHIRE so called from the chiefe Towne Caermarden lieth bordered vpon the North with Cardigan-shire vpon her East by Brecknock and Glamorgan-shires vpon the South with a Bay of the British Seas and vpon the West with Pembroke-shire 2 The forme of this County is long and shooteth it selfe from the South-west into the North and by-East betwixt whose furthest bounds are thirtie fiue English miles and in her broadest part twentie miles the whole in circumferance about one hundred and two miles 3 This Shire is not altogether so pestred with hils as her bordering neighbours are and those that she hath neither so high nor so thicke and therefore is better for Corne and Pasturage yea and in Woods also so that for victuals this Countie is very well stored which the stomacke doth as well disgest the aire being wholesome temperate and pleasing 4 Anciently these parts were possessed by the Di●●●tree as Ptolemie Gildas and Ninius doe name them though Plinie holds opinion that they were part of the Silures with whom no doubt they were subdued to the Romans yoke by 〈…〉 when he struggled with the rockie hils in those Southerne parts And this Countie is 〈…〉 by Writers to be the very strength of South Wales In the West thereof at Kilman●● as it 〈◊〉 seeme their Legions kept where lately an earthen Po● hoarded with store of 〈◊〉 Coines was by the spade digged vp being stamped vpon imbased siluer from the time of Co●●●odus vnto the first Tribuneship of Gordian the third which fell in the yeare of Christ two hundred ●●●tie three and amongst these were the Coines of Heluins Pertinax Marcu● Opellius Antonius Di●●●menianus Iulius Verus Maximus the sonne of Maximu● of Calius Balbinus of Clodius Pupienus of Aquilta Senera the wife of Helingaba●● and of Sall-Barbia Orbi●na peeces rarely found 5 The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle Pit-coale Fowle and Sea-fish whereof the Salmon is common among them and that of such greatnesse and plentie as no place is better furnished therewith then the Shire-Towne Caermarden is 6 Which Towne by Ptolemie is called Maridunum by Antonius the Empe●our M●ridunum by the Britaines Caer-fridhin and by vs Caermarden It is pleasantly seated vpon the South-west side of the Riuer Touy that runneth thorow the middest of this Shire and falleth South from hence into the British Sea where before times was a conuenient Hauen for Ships 〈◊〉 but now is sore pestred with Sands and Shelfes notwithstanding some small Vessels ascend vp the Riuer euen vnto the Bridge of this Towne which is fairely built of free-stone And ouer the same vpon a hanging Rocke standeth a very large Castle from whose stone-wall another intermingled with bricke rangeth about the Towne being in circuit one thousand and foure hundred pases The Inhabitants of this place doe not a little glory of their Merlin who at they say was therein borne the sonne of a bad Angell or of an Incubus spirit the 〈◊〉 great Apollo whom Geffrey ap Arthur would ranke with the South saying Seer or rathe● 〈◊〉 true Prophets themselues being none other then a meere Seducer and phantasticall Wizard 〈◊〉 howsoeuer Alani de Insulis in his Commentaries hath labourered to vnlocke those darke and hidden 〈◊〉 wherewith his booke is pestred and full yet was it not without cause forbid the reading by 〈◊〉 Councell of Trent as vaine and not worthy of countenance or credit At the entrance of the Normans this Towne was brought vn●● their obedience and for a long time was distressed with the calamities of warre yet afterwards it is made by the English Princes the Chaucdry and Exchequer for all South-Wales and at this day is yearely gouerned by a Maior who euer after is an Alderman and Iustice of the Peace two Sheriffes elected out of sixteene Burgesses all of them in skarlet a Sword-bearer a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants with Maces from whence the Pole is raised 52. degrees 15. minutes in Latitude and for Longitude is in the degree 15. and 30. minutes from the first point in the West according to Mercator 7 East from this place are the ruines of Carreg-Castle which stood mounted on a high hill vnder the which many vaults and spacious Caues farre into the ground are seene wherein is thought the people vnable to fight were therein secured in time of their Warres Where also is a Well take the report from Giraldus who writeth it that in this place twice in foure and twentie houres ebbing and twice flowing resembleth the vnstable motions of the maine Sea GLAMORGAN-SHIRE CHAPTER VII GLAMORGAN-SHIRE as some thinke named from Prince Morgan the possessor thereof or according to others is taken from Morgan an Abbey founded by William Earle of Glocester vpon the Sea-shoare in the South of this Shire lyeth bounded vpon that part altogether with the British Sea the West by Loghor is parted from Caermarden-shire the North butteth vpon the Countie of Brekn●ck and the East by Remney is diuided from Monmouth 2 The forme of this Shire groweth still wider from her West-point spreaking her broadest touch in the East betwixt which extreames I finde by measure to be well-neere fortie English miles and from North to South not altogether twentie miles the whole in circumference about one hundred and twelue miles 3 The aire is temperate and giues mo●●●ntent to the minde then the soile doth fruit or ease vnto Trauellers The hils being high and 〈◊〉 which from the North notwithstanding are lessened as it were by degrees and towards 〈◊〉 Sea-coasts the Country becommeth somewhat plaine which part is the best both for plentie●● Graine and populous of Inhabitants The rest all Mountaine is replenished with 〈◊〉 which is the best meanes vnto wealth that this Shire doth affoord vpon whose Hils you may ●●hold whole Heards of them feeding and from whose Rockes most cleare springing waters 〈◊〉 the vallies trickling which sportingly doe passe with a most pleasant sound and did not a little 〈◊〉 my wearied spirits among those vast Mountaines imployed in their search whose infancie at first admitted an easie step ouer but growne vnto strength more boldly forbade me such passage and with a more sterne countenance held on their iourney vnto the British Seas and Taue among these is accounted for a chiefe 4 Vpon whose fall and East-banke the fairest Towne of all South-Wales is seated the 〈◊〉 Caerdid the English Caerdiffe which Fitz-Haimon
impeach his designes and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a marke of Iurisdiction that London had so farre vpon Thamesis 7 Which Citie is more ancient then any true record beareth fabuled from Brute Troynouant from Lud Ludstone But by more credible Writers Tacitus Ptolemy and Antonine Londinium by Aminian●● Mercellinus for her successiue prosperitie Augusta the greatest title that can be giuen to any by Britaines Londayn by Strangers Londra and by vs London This Citie doth shew as the Cedars among other trees being the seat of the British Kings the chamber of the English the modell of the Land and the Mart of the world for thither are brought the silke of Asia the spices from Africa the Balmes from Grecia and the riches of both the Indies East and West no Citie standing so long in same nor any for diuine and politicke gouernment may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour at the suit of his mother Qu Helen reared with rough stone and British Bricke three English miles in compasse thorow which are now made seauen most faire gates besides three other passages for entrance Along the Thamesis this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened the one Doure-gate now Dowgate and the other Billinsgate a receptacle for Ships In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke as the like was in Rome from whence were measured their stations for carriage or otherwise the same as yet standeth and hath beene long knowne by the name of London Stone Vpon the East of this Citie the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedrall of Restitus the Christians Bishops See who liued in the raigne of Great Constantine but since S. Pauls in the West part from the Temple of Diana assumed that dignitie whose greatnesse doth exceed any other at this day and spires so high that twice it hath beene consumed by lightning from heauen Besides this Cathedrall God is honoured in one hundred twentie one Churches more in this Citie that is ninetie six within the wals sixteene without but within the Liberties and nine more in her Suburbs and in F●z Stephens time thirteene Conuents of religious Orders It is diuided into 26 Wards gouerned by so many graue Aldermen a Lord Maior and two Sherifs the yearely choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made ouer Thames vpon nineteene Arches for length breadth beautie and building the like againe not found in the world 8 This London as it were disdaning bondage hath set her selfe on each side far without the walls and hath lefther West-gate in the midst from whence with continuall buildings still affecting greatnesse she hath continued her streets vnto a Kings Palace and ioyned a second Citie to her selfe famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings and for the Gates of Iustice that termely there are opened onely once a Bishops See whose title died with the man No walls are set about this Citie and those of London are left to shew rather what it was then what it is Whose Citizens as the Lacedemonians did doe impute their strength in their men and not in their wals how strong toeuer Or else for their multitude cannot be circulated but as another Ierusalem is inhabited without walls as Zachary said The wealth of this Citie as Isay once spake of Nilus growes from the Reuenewes and haruest of her South-bounding Thames whose traffique for merchandizing is like that of Tyrus whereof Ezekiel speakes and stands in abundance of Siluer Iron Tinne and Lead c. And from London her channell is nauigable straitned along with medowing borders vntill she taketh her full libertie in the German Seas Vpon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seeme to ride and the Nauy that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea spreads her saile Whence twice with luckie successe hath beene accomplished the compassing of the vniuersall Globe This Riuer Canutus laying siege against London sought by digging to diuert and before him the Danes had done great harmes in this Citie yet was their State recouered by King Elfred and the Riuer kept her olde course notwithstanding that cost In the times of the Normans some ciuill broiles haue beene attempted in this Citie as in the dayes of King Iohn whereinto his Barons entred and the Tower yeelded vnto Lewis And againe Wat Tyler herein committed outragious cruelties but was worthily struck downe by the Maior and slaine in Smithfield This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes and in Longitude 20. degrees 39. minutes 9 In this Countie at Barnet vpon easter-Easter-day a bloudy battell was fought betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth wherein were slaine one Marques one Earle three Lords and with them ten thousand Englishmen ESSEX CHAPTER XV. ESSEX by the Normans exsessa and by the vulgar Essex is a Countie large in compasse very populous and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land 2 The ●orme thereof is somewhat Circular excepting the East part which shooteth her selfe with many Promontories into the Sea and from Horsey Iland to Haidon in the West the broadest part of the Shire are by measure fortie miles and the length from East-Ha●● vpon Thamesis in the South to S●urmere vpon the Riuer Stow in the North are thirtie-fiue miles the whole in Circumference one hundred fortie sixe miles 3 It lyeth bounded vpon the North with Suffolke and Cambridge-Shires vpon the West with Hertford and Middlesex vpon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the German Sea 4 The ayre is temperate and pleasant onely towards the waters somewhat aguish the soile is rich and fruitfull though in some places sandy and barren yet so that it neuer frustrates the husbandmans hopes or fils not the hands of her haruest-labourers but in some part so fertile that after three yeares glebe of Saffron the Land for 18. more will yeeld plentie of Barley without either dung or other fatning earth 5 Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes were by Caesar called the Trinobants of whom in the former Chapter we haue spoken and in our History shall speake more at large But this name perished with the age of the Empire the Saxons presently framed a new and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdome vntill that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy the Daues after them laid so sore for this Prouince that at ●eamfleet and Hauenet now Shobery they fortified most strongly and at Barklow besides the hils mounted for their burials the Danewort with her red beryes so plentifully grow that it is held and accounted to spring from the bloud of the Danes which in that place was spilt and the hearb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrell but at Ashdowne
wooddy and fruitfull yet so as the hand of the Manurer must neuer be idle nor the purse of the Farmer neuer fast shut especially of them that are farre from the Sea whence they fetch a sand with charge and much trauell which being spread vpon the face of the earth bettereth the leannesse thereof for graine and giueth life to the Glebe with great efficacy 4 As Cornwall so this hath the same commodities that arise from the Seas and being more inlanded hath more commodious Hauens for Sh●ppings entercourse among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance if Geffry say true or if Hau●llan the Poet tooke not a Poeticall libertie when speaking of Brute he wrote thus The Gods did guide his sayle and course the winds were at command And Totnes was the happie shoare where first he came on land But with more credit and lamentable euent the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the inuasion of this Land about the yeare of Christ 787. vnto whom Brightrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents whom resistantly they slew yet were they forced backe to their Ships by the Inhabitants though long they stayed not but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises With more happie successe hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same and stopped the entrance of Englands Inuaders as in the Raigne of that eternized Queene the mirrour of Princes Elizabeth of euerlasting memory for from this Port Sir Francis Drake that potent man at Sea setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two yeares and ten moneths did compasse the circle of the earth by Sea And the Lord Charles Howard Englands high Admirall did not onely from hence impeach the entrance of the proud inuincible Spanish Nauy intending inuasion and subuersion of State but with his Bullets so signed their passage that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had beene as seales of their owne shame and his high honour 5 The commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings where the best and finest Kersies are made in the Land Corne is most plenteous in the fruitfull Vallies and Cattle spreading vpon the topped Hils Sea Fish and Fowle exceedingly abundant Veynes of Lead yea and some of Siluer in this Shire are found and the Load-stone not the least for vse and esteeme from the Rocks vpon Dart-more hath beene taken Many fresh Springs doe bubble from the Hils in this Prouince which with a longing desire of Socretie search out their passage till they meete and conjoyne in the Vallies and gathering still strength with more branches lastly grow bodyed able to beare Ships into the Land and to lodge them of great burthen in their Bosomes or Fals whereof Tamar Taue and Ex are the fairest and most commodious 6 Vpon which last the chiefe Citie and Shire-Towne of this Countie is seated and from that Riuer hath her name Excester this Citie by Ptolemie is called Is●a by the 〈…〉 Emperour Is●a Danmoniorum and by the We so 〈◊〉 It is pleasantly seated vpon the gentle ●scent of an hill so stately for building so rich with 〈…〉 strangers that a man can desire nothing but 〈…〉 The walls of this Citie first built by King 〈…〉 but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line hauing six Gates for entrance and many 〈…〉 betwixt whose compasse containeth about fifteene hundred paces vpon the East part of this Citie standeth a Castle called Rugemont sometimes the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings and after them of the Earles of Cornwall whose prospect is pleasant vnto the 〈…〉 magnificent Cathedrall Church founded by King Athelstan also in the honour of S. Peter and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See which the remoued from 〈…〉 in this Countie vnto the Citie of Excester as saith the priuate History of that place whose ●●●apidations the reuerend Father in God William now Bishop of the Diocesse with great cost hath repaired whom I may not name without a most thankfull remembrance for the great benefits receiued by his carefull prouidence toward me and mine This Citie was so strong and so well stored of Britaines that they held out against the Saxons for 465. yeares after their first entrance and was not absolutely 〈◊〉 vntill Athelstan became Monarch of the whole who then peopled it with his Saxons and 〈◊〉 the beautie thereof with many faire buildings but in the times of the Danish desolations this Citie with the rest felt their destroying hands for in the yeare 875. it was by them fore afflicted spoyled and shaken and that most grieuously by Swane in the yeare of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it downe from East to West so that scarcely had it gotten breath before William the bastard of Normandy besieged it against whom the Citizens with great manhood serued till a part of the wall fell downe of it selfe and that by the hand of Gods prouidence saith mine Author since when it hath beene three times besieged and with valiant resistance euer defended The first was by Hugh Courtney Earle of Deuenshire in the Ciuill broyles betwixt Lancaster and Yorke then by Perbin Warbeck that counterfeited Richard Duke of Yorke and lastly by the Cornish Rebels wherein although the Citizens were grieuously pinched with scarsitie yet continued they their faithfull allegeance vnto King Edward the sixt and at this day flourisheth in tranquillitie and wealth being gouerned by a Major twentie-foure Brethren with a Recorder Towne-Clerke and other Officers their Attendants This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the north-North-Pole 50. and 45. scruples and for Longitude from the West to the degree 16. and 25. scruples Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet whose birth was in this Citie the least of her Ornaments whose Writings bare so great credit that they were divulged in the Germane language vnder the name of Cornelius Nepos The like credit got Crediton in her birth-child Winefred the Apostle of the Hassians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany which were conuerted by him vnto the Gospell and knowledge of Christ 7 Places memorable in this Countie remaining for signes of Battles or other antiquities are these vpon Exmore certaine Monuments of Anticke-worke are erected which are stones pitched in order some triangle-wise and some in round compasse these no doubt were trophies of victories there obtained eyther by the Romans Saxons or Danes and with Danish letters one of them is inscribed giuing direction to such as should trauell that way Hublestowe likewise neere vnto the mouth of Tawe was the buriall place of Hubba the Dane who with his Brother Hungar had harried the English in diuers parts of the Land but lastly was there encountred with and slaine by this Shires Inhabitants and vnder a heape of copped stones interred and the Banner Reasen there and then taken that had so often beene spread in the Danes quarrell and wherein they reposed no small confidence for successe 8 A double dignitie remaineth in
pleasantly seated hauing the Ouse running thorow the Towne in the middest and a faire Stone-bridge built ouer the same whereon are two Gates to locke and impeach the passage as occasion shall serue At the first entrance standeth S. Leonards Hospitall for Lazars and further inwards S. Iohns and S. Maries Churches within the Towne S. Pauls a most beautifull Church S. Cuthberis and S. Peters without the Towne standeth the Fryers S. Loyes Alhallowes and Caudwell Abbey not farre whence sometimes stood a Chappell vpon the Banke of Ouse wherein as Florilegus affirmeth the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred but by the ouer-swelling of that Riuer was borne downe and swallowed vp whose Tombe of Lead as it were some phantasticall thing appeared often to them that seeke it not but to them that seeke it saith Rosse it is inuisible This Towne is gouerned yearely by a Mator two Bailiffes two Chamberlaines a Recorder a towne-Clerke and three Sergeants with Mases 8 A tale of vaine credit is reported of Dunstable that it was built to bridle the outragiousnesse of a theefe named Dun by King Henry the first but certaine it is the place was formerly held by the Romanes whose Legions there lay as appeareth by the Coines there vsually found which from Magmium are corruptly called Madning-money 9 Castles in this Shire are Woodhill Eaton Temsford and Amphill an honour now appertaining to the Crowne And places of Religion built by deuout persons but for Idolatrous Abuses againe abolished were at Bedford Harwood Helenflow Newenham Chicksand Wardon Woborne and Dunstable All these with their like felt the hand of Henry the Eight to lie so heauie vpon them that they were not able to sustaine the waight but were crushed to peices and fell to the ground 10 The Graduation of this Countie taken for the Shire-Towne is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52. and 30. minutes for Latitude and is remoued from the first West point of Longitude 20. degrees and 16. minutes BVCKINGHAM-SHIRE CHAPTER XXI BVCKINGHAM for the plentie of Beech-trees there growing and those in the elder times of the Saxons called Eucken may well be supposed from them to haue the name as afterwards the whole Shire had hers from this Towne Buckingham 2 In forme it somewhat resembleth a Lyon Rampant whose head or North-point toucheth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford whose backe or East-part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-shires his loines or South-borders rest vpon Bark shire and his breast the West side is butted vpon wholly by Oxford-shire The length thereof from Waisbury in the South to Bradfeild in her North are thirtie nine miles the breadth at the broadest from Ashridge in the East to 〈◊〉 wood Forrest in the West are eighteene the whole in Circumference one hundred thirtie 〈◊〉 miles 3 The ayre is passing good temperate and pleasant yeelding the body health and the minde content The soile is rich fat and fruitfull giuing abundance of Corne Grasse and Meate It is chiefly diuided into two parts by the Chiltren billes which run thorow this Shire in the middest and before tim● where so postered with Be●●h that they were altogether vnpassable and became a receptacle and refuge for theeues who daily endammaged the way-faring man for which cause 〈◊〉 Abbot of S. A●ba●s caused them to be cut downe since when those parts are pa●●able without any great incumbrances of trees from whose tops a large and most pleasing prospect is 〈◊〉 The Vale beneath is plaine and champion a clayie soile stiffe and tough but withall marueilous 〈◊〉 full naked of woods but abounding in medowes pastures and tillage and maintaining an infinite number of sheepe whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteeme with the Turkes as farre as Asia 4 The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in this Shire were the Catlieuchlani mentioned by Ptolemie and them dispersed thorow the Tract of Bedford Hertford and this These yeelded themselues with the first to Caesar vnder the Romanes subiection whose ouer-worne Empire ending in Britaine the Saxons by strong hand attained this Prouince and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdome yet was it first subdued vnto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon whose memory is in part continued in the Towne Chersey vpon the West of this Countie where in a sharpe and bloudy battle he was Victor ouer the Britaines So also Cuthwulfe a West-Saxon at Alesbury in the yeare of Grace 592. ouer came the Britaines and bare downe all things before him yet no sooner was their Hep●archie wained and their Monarchie able to stand alone but that the Danes before their strength and growth was confirmed waxed vpon them and they not able in so weake a hand to hold fast that weight of greatnesse they had so grasped gaue place to their conquerours who did many harmes in this Prouince for in the yeare 914. the Danes furiously raged as farre as Brenwood where they destroyed the City Burgh the ancient seat of the Romanes afterwards a royall house of King Edward the Confessor which they vtterly destroyed 5 The Shire-Towne Buckingham fruitfully seated vpon the Riuer Ouse was fortified with a Rampire and Sconses on both bankes by King Edward the elder saith Marianus the Scotish Writer where in the heart of the Towne hath stood a strong Castle mounted vpon a high hill which long since was brought to the period of her estate now nothing remaining besides the signes that there she had stood The Riuer circulates this Towne on euery side that onely on the North excepted ouer which three faire stone-bridges lead and into which the springs of a Well run called S. Rumalds a child-saint borne at Kings-Sutton canonized and in the Church of this Towne enshrined with many conceited miracles and cures such was the happe of those times to produce Saints of all ages and sexes This Towne is gouerned by a Bayliffe and twelue principall Burgesses and is in the degree remoued from the first point of the West for Longitude 19. 33. scruples and the North-pole elenated in Latitude for the degree of 52. 18. scruples 6 A Towne of ancient note is Stony-Stratford the Romans Lactorodum being built vpon that ancient Causey-way which is called Watling-street where remaine the markes thereof euen vnto this day At this place Edward the elder stopped the passage of the Danes whiles he strengthened Torcester against them and herein King Edward the eldest since the Conquest reared a beautifull Crosse in memory of Eleanor his dead Queene as he did in euery place where her Corps rested from Herdby in Lincolne-shire till it was receiued and buried at Westminster 7 Places intended for Gods true worship built by deuout persons and sequestred from worldly imployments were at Launden Luffeld Bidlesden Bradwell Nothey Ankerne Missenden Tekeford Partrendune Ashridge and Alesburie Ashridge in great repute for the bloud supposed out of Christs sides brought out of Germany by Henry the eldest sonne of Richard King of the Romanes and Earle
Shire is drawne indifferently spacious but not very thicke of Inclosures being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles whose principall Citie is set as the Center almost in the midst from whom the Pole is eleuated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude and for Longitude 19. degrees 22. minutes 6 From this Towne the Shire hath the name though the name of her selfe is diuersly written as Legecestria Legora Legeo-cester by Ninius Caer-Lerion by Mathew of Westminister if we doe not mistake him Wirall and now lastly Leicester ancient enough if King Leir was her builder eight hundred fortie and foure yeares before the birth of our Sauiour wherein he placed a Flamine to serue in the Temple of Ianus by himselfe there erected and where he was buried if Ieffery ap Arthur say true but now certaine it is that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopall See in the yeare of Christ Iesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop which shortly after was thence translated and therewith the beautie of the Towne began to decay vpon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion and both reedified the buildings and compassed it about with a strong wall where in short time the Cities trade so increased that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth Lege-cester saith he is a right wealthy Citie and notably defended and had the wall a sure foundation were inferiour to no Citie whatsoeuer But this pride of prosperitie long lasted not vnder the Normans for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities when Robert Bossu the Crouch-backe Earle of that Prouince rebelled against his Soueraigne Lord King Henry the second whereof heare the same Author Paris speake Through the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert saith he the noble Citie Leicester was besieged and throwne downe by King Henry and the wall that seemed indissoluble was vtterly raced euen to the ground The peeces of whose fragments so fallen downe remained in his dayes like to hard rockes through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumpes together and at the Kings command the Citie was set on fire and burnt the Castle raced and a heauit imposition laid vpon the Citizens who with great summes of money bought their owne Banishments but were so vsed in their departure that for extreame feare many of them tooke Sanctuary both at S. Edmunds and S. Albanes In repentance of these mischiefes the Author thereof Earle Robert built the Monastery of S. Mary de Praetis wherein himselfe became a Canon regular and for fifteene yeares continuance in sad laments serued God in continuall prayers With the like deuotion Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospitall for an hundred and ten poore people with a Collegiate Church a Deane twelue Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars sufficiently prouided for with reuenewes wherein himselfe lyeth buryed and it was the greatest ornament of that Citie vntil the hand of King Henry the 8. lay ouer-heaiue vpon all the like foundations and laid their aspired tops at his owne feete The fortunes of another Crouch-backe King Richard the V●●●per were no lesse remarkable in this Citie then the former Robert was both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life though of disterent issue at their deaths the one dying penitent and of deuout esteeme the other leauing the stench of Tyranny to all following ages who from this Citie setting forth in one day with great pompe and in Battle aray to keepe the Crowne sure vpon his owne Helmet in a sore 〈◊〉 field yeelded both it and his life vnto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conquerour and the next day was brought backe like a Hogge naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt without teares 〈◊〉 buried in the G●●y-Fryers of this Citie whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his graue and onely the stone-chest wherein he was laid a drinking trough now for horses in a common In●e retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funerall and so did a stone in the Church and Chappell of S. Maries inclose the corpse of the proud and pontificall Cardinall Wolsey who had prepared for himselfe as was said a farre more richer Monument 7 Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these In the West where a high Crosse was erected in former times stood the faire Citie Cleycester the Romans BENONNES where their Legions lay and where their two principall wayes crossed each other as the Inhabitants report Loughborrow in the North-verge was as Marianus affirmeth taken from the Britaine 's by Cuthwolfe their King about the yeare of Christ 572. At Redmore neere Bosworth Westward in this Countie the Kingdome of England lay in hazard of one Battle when King Richards Field was fought where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Vsurper Neither may we passe Lutterworth as the least in account where the famous Iohn Wickliffe Englands Morning-starre dispersed the clouds of all Papisticall darknesse by preaching the Gospell in that his charge and stile of his pen so piercing in power that the man of Sinne euer since hath beene better knowne to the world 8 Religious houses by Princes erected and by them deuoted to God and his seruice the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester Grace-Dieu Kerby Bellers and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers a disease then newly approched in this Land for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorow the Realme the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin as the other were in the defects for the soule whose skirts being turned vp to the sight of the world their s●●mes were discouered and those houses dissolued that had long maintained such Idolatrous sinnes LINCOLN-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXI THe County of Lincolne by the Normans called Nicolshire is consined on the North with Humber on the East with the German Ocean vpon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northampton-shire by the Riuer Nyne and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent 2 The length of this Prouince extended from Barton vpon Humber in the North vnto Stanford vpon the Riuer Nyne in the South are miles by our English measure fiftie fiue and the bredth thereof from Newton in the West stretched vnto Wintbory vpon her East Sea containeth thirtie fiue The whole in circumference about one hundred and eightie miles 3 The Ayre vpon the East and South part is both thicke and foggy by reason of the Fennes and vnsolute grounds but therewithall very moderate and pleasing Her graduation being remoued from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the windes that are sent of her still working Seas doe disperse those vapours from all power of hurt 4 The forme of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute whose East coasts lye bowe-like into the German
sixe Yeomen It hath beene accounted the Key into Ireland and great pitie it is that the Port should decay as it daily doth the Sea being stopped to scoure the Riuer by a Causey that thwarteth Dee at her bridge Within the wals of this Citie are eight Parish-Churches S. Iohns the greater and lesser in the Suburbs are the White Fryers Blacke-Fryers and Nunnery now suppressed From which Citie the Pole is eleuated vnto the degree 53. 58. minutes of Latitude and from the first point of the West in Longitude vnto the 17. degree and 18. minutes 8 The Earledome whereof was possessed from the Conquerour till it fell lastly to the Crowne the last of whom though not with the least hopes is Prince Henry who to the Titles of Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall hath by Succession and right of Inheritance the Earledome of Chester annexed to his other most happy Stiles Vpon whose person I pray that the Angels of Iacobs God may euer attend to his great glory and Great Britaines happinesse 9 If I should vrge credit vnto the report of certaine Trees floating in Bagmere onely against the deaths of the Heyres of the Breretons thereby seated and after to sinke vntill the next like occasion or inforce for truth the Prophecie which Leyland in a Poeticall fury forespake of Beeston Castle highly mounted vpon a steepe hill I should forget my selfe and wonted opinion that can hardly beleeue any such vaine predictions though they be told from the mouthes of credit as Bagmere Trees are or learned Leyland for Beeston who thus writeth The day will come when it againe shall mount his head aloft If ● a Prophet may be heard from Seers that say so oft With eight other Castles this Shire hath beene strengthned which were Ould-Castle Shoclath Shotwitch Chester Poulefourd Dunham Fr●desham and Haulten and by the Prayers as then was taught of eight religious houses therein seated preserued which by King Henry the eight were suppressed namely Stanlowe I●●ree Maxf●ld Norton Bunbery Combermere Rud-heath and Vale-Royall besides the White and Blacke Fryers and the Nunnery in Chester LANCA-SHIRE CHAPTER XXXVII THE Countie Palatine of Lancaster famous for the foure Henries the fourth fift sixt and seauenth Kings of England deriued from Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster is vpon the South confined and parted by the Riuer Merscy from the Countie Palatine of Chester the faire Countie of Darby-shire bordering vpon the East the large Country of Yorkeshire together with Westmerland and Cumberland being her kinde neighbours vpon the North and the Sea called Ma●● Hebernicum embracing her vpon the West 2 The forme thereof is long for it is so inclosed betweene Yorke shire on the East side and the Irish Sea on the West that where it boundeth vpon Cheshire on the South-side it is broader and by little and little more Northward it goeth confining vpon Westmerland the more narrow it groweth It containeth in length from Brathey Northward to Halwood South-ward fiftie seauen miles from Denton in the East to F●rmby by Altmouth in the West thirtie one and the whole circumference in compasse one hundred three-score and ten miles 3 The Aire is 〈…〉 not troubled with grosse vapours or foggy mists by reason whereof the 〈…〉 long and healthfully and are not subiect to strange and vnknowne deseases 4 The Soile for the generalitie is not very fruitfull yet it produceth such numbers of Cattle of such large proportion and such goodly heads and hornes as the whole Kingdome of Spaine doth scarce the like It is a Country replenished with all necessaries for the vse of man yeelding without any great labour the commoditie of Corne Flaxe Grasse Coales and such like The Sea also adding her blessing to the Land that the people of that Prouince want nothing that serues either for the sustenance of nature or the safetie of appetite They are plentifully furnished with all sorts of Fish Flesh and Fowles Their principall fuell is Coale and Turffe which they haue in great abundance the Gentlemen reseruing their woods very carefully as a beautie and principall ornament to their Mannors and houses And though it be farre from London the capitall Citie of this Kingdome yet doth it euery yeare furnish her and many other parts of the Land besides with many thousands of Cattle bred in this Country giuing thereby and otherwayes a firme testimony to the world of the blessed abundance that it hath pleased God to enrich this noble Dukedome withall 5 This Counties ancient Inhabitants were the Brigantes of whom there is more mention in the description of Yorkeshire who by Claudius the Emperour were brought vnder the Roman subiection that so held and made it their Seat secured by their Garrisons as hath beene gathered as well by many inscriptions found in walles and ancient monuments fixed in stones as by certaine Altars erected in fauour of their Emperours After the Romans the Saxons brought it vnder their protection and held it for a part of their Northumbrian Kingdome till it was first made subiugate to the inuasion of the Danes and then conquered by the victorious Normans whose posterities from thence are branched further into England 6 Places of antiquitie or memorable note are these the Towne of Manchester so famous as well for the Market-place Church and Colledge as for the resort vnto it for clothing was called Mancunium by Antonine the Emperour and was made a Fort and Station of the Romans Riblechester which taketh the name from Rhibell a little Riuer neere Clithero though it be a small Towne yet by tradition hath beene called the richest Towne in Christendome and reported to haue beene the Seat of the Romans which the many Monuments of their Antiquities Statues peeces of Coine and other seuerall inscription digd vp from time to time by the Inhabitants may giue vs sufficient perswasion to beleeue But the Shire-Towne is Lancaster more pleasant in situation then rich of Inhabitants built on the South of the Riuer Lon and is the same Longouicum where as we finde in the Notice Prouinces a company of the Longo●icarians vnder the Lieutenant Generall of Britaine lay The beautie of this Towne is in the Church Castle and Bridge her streets many and stretched farre in length Vnto this Towne King Edward the third granted a Maior and two Bailiffes which to this day are elected out of twelue Brethren assisted by twentie-foure Burgesses by whom it is yearely gouerned with the supply of two Chamberlaines a Recorder Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants at Mace The eleuation of who●● Pole is in the degree of Latitude 54 and 58. scruples and her Longitude remoued from the first West 〈◊〉 vnto the degree 17 and 4● scruples 7 This Country in diuers places suffereth the force of many flowing Tides of the Sea by which after a sort it doth violently rent asunder one part of the Shire from the other as in Fournesse where the 〈◊〉 displeased that the short should from thence shoot a maine way into the