they would be in danger of committing great errours at Sea because of the Tides and Currents that either drive the Log forwards or backwards and to be assured of the exactness of that account the Log must be fixed and immoveable But the English are not mistaken for besides that invention of Miles they dayly take an observation of the Suns height besides they heave out the Log at every change encrease or decrease of the Wind. The English reckon their Miles at five hundred Geometrical paces only that is five Foot to the pace Cape of Jasques Carpella The distance of Ormus from Cape Jasques About half an hour after six we were off of the Cape of Jasques anciently called Carpella it lyes in five and twenty degrees and a half North Latitude and in thirty Leagues from Ormus From that Cape the Land bears East and by South to the River of Indus At Cape Jasques about half a Mile or a Mile up on Land there is a kind of a sorry Fort with about forty Houses inhabited by a sort of very poor people who live on Barley and drink nothing but water and that very brackish too they have two Barks or Taranquins wherein they carry Wood to sell at Mascat That wretched place is called Jasques and depends on the Governour of Comron who sends whom he pleases to Command in it Thursday the seventeenth of December about six a Clock in the morning we clapt on our Main-Top-Galant-Sail and stood away East keeping in sight of the Land of Persia least the Wind might force us too far out to Sea which about eleven a Clock turned North-East At noon we found that from Sun setting the day before we had run threescore and one Miles or twenty Leagues and a third at the rate of three Miles a League At one of the Clock we bore away East and by South About four a Clock the Wind chopping about to West we bore away South-East and by East About half an hour after five we had East North-East of us a little low Isle close by the Persian shoar which in that place is very low About six a Clock we were off and on with that little Isle Friday the eighteenth of December in the morning we Steered our Course East and by South and at noon we found that from that time the day before we had made eight and thirty Leagues then the Wind got into North-West and we bore away South-East and by East that we might not run within Land which we obscurely made on Head a little to the Larboard Next morning the Wind abated and therefore we stood away East and by South At noon we found by our reckoning that we had in the last four and twenty hours made five and twenty Leagues and a half Then the Captain Mate and Gunner took an Observation of the Sums height with a Quadrant as well as they could for none of the three had much skill in it and the Maâ—e least of all all three agreed that we were in twenty four degrees thirty minutes Latitude About evening the Wind shifted into South-West but it was so easie that scarcely did it curl the water yet we Steered away South-East and by East that we might not be cast a shoar Sunday the twentieth of December it continued still calm weather so that at noon we found we had made but five Leagues way and our Men having taken their Observation found that we were still in the Latitude of twenty four degrees thirty minutes as we were the day before and that day every one was stinted to a measure and a half of water by day Towards the evening we made the Land of Persia and were but about five Leagues off of it which made us Steer away South-East and by South and stand out to Sea contrary to the opinion of the Mate who would have kept in by the Shoar giving this reason for it that we needed not fear to be cast too far to the Leeward as the Captain said because at that time the East Wind blows along the Coast of Sindy and besides being near Land in case it proved bad weather we might come to an Anchor and take in water which we were affraid we might come to want But the chief reason why he would have stood in to shoar and which he kept to himself was that he might know the place where he was for these are such an ignorant sort of Men that so soon as they lose sight of Land they know no more where they are The Captain made answer to all his reasons that it was bad advice to make us double our way without any necessity and that we had no reason to go look for East Winds having the Wind at South-West which though it was easie still kept us going on in our Course and would if it freshened bring us in a short time whither we were bound and in that case we needed not go look for water whereof as yet we had no want besides that by standing in to shoar we run a risk of meeting the Zinganes those Pirats I mentioned before whom no body desired to see and we put our selves also in danger of not being able to get out to Sea again for a long time if the Wind which we had lasted because we must wait for another Wind which perhaps might not offer in some weeks time In fine it behoved the Pilot to acquiesce to this judgment which was approved by all of us nay the Gunner was for having us steer our Course more to the Southward and he was not out in that for the Coast of Cape Jasques bears West and by North and East and by South and we Steered South-East and by East from which substracting a Point and a half which is the variation of the Needle and then our Course would prove to be East a Point and a half towards South and so we were but half a Point to the Windward of the Land of Persia and this Course carried us streight to the Gulf which is to the Northward of the Isle of Diu but the Captain would not change his Course fearing to meet with an East Wind which would have driven him too far above the place whither we were bound and therefore he would not bear away South till he was near the Isle of Diu. Monday the one and twentieth of December our Observers found at noon that we were in twenty four degrees twenty five minutes Latitude and that we had run ten Leagues Next day they found twenty four degrees five minutes Latitude and that we had run fourteen Leagues the last twenty four hours About four a Clock in the afternoon the Heaven was on all Hands overcast with thick black Clouds and at the same time there arose a small Gale from West North-West which presently drove the Clouds upon us we expected a strong Gust of Wind but we were excused for a shower of Rain which was indeed violent but lasted not without
it be when they mount on Horse-back or a light Play or Eat or fall to any work whatsoever they always begin with that and it is very commendable And they are so careful in shewing their reverence to the Name of God that if they find the least bit of Paper in the way The Turks carefully take up pieces of Paper they take it up and put it into some hole of a wall and upon no other consideration as they say but that the Name of God is written on it or may be written on it so that the holes of the walls are always to be seen stuck full of them For the same reason they use no Paper when they go to ease themselves for it would be a great crime and they would cudgel a Christian soundly if they found that he employed it that way but for all this reverence they swear by the Name of God at every turn and speak not three words without an Vllah that is to say By God they are so accustomed to it that they cannot forbear and it seems to give a gracefulness to their discourse but they do not think that God is thereby offended and indeed they seldom swear in vain for when they say Vllah they would be believed and he that should swear so falsely would be lookt upon as a naughty man. CHAP. XXXIV Of the Ramadan Ramadan THE second command that the Turks are to observe is Fasting whereby the flesh is mortified concupiscence subdued and the soul purified Now this Fasting they reduce to a Lent of one month The Turkish Year which they call Ramadan but before I say any more of that we are to know that the Turkish year consists of three hundred fifty four days divided into twelve months or moons for they begin their several months at the beginning of the several moons and those months have one thirty days and the other nine and twenty and so alternately The names of the Turkish Months Their first month is called Muharrem ai that is to say the first month of the year and hath thirty days the second Sefer ai it hath nine and twenty days the third Rebiul ewel ai has thirty days the fourth Rebiul ahhir ai nine and twenty days the fifth Dgiamazil ewel of thirty days the sixth Dgiamazil ahhir of nine and twenty days the seventh Redgeb ai of thirty days the eighth Chaaban ai of nine and twenty days the ninth Remezan ai which hath thirty days the tenth Cheuval ai of nine and twenty days the eleventh Zoulkaade ai of thirty days the twelfth Zoulhidge ai of nine and twenty days All know that the Epoche from which they began to reckon their years was the year of Mahomet's flight which they call Hegyra and was the twenty second of July in the year of our Lord six hundred twenty two wherefore the sixteenth of July in the year 1663 is with them the twenty ninth day of Zoulhidge Hegyra or the last day of the year 1073 from the Hegyra for their year being eleven days shorter than ours whereas we make use of the Bissex-tile or leap-year that we may not lose some minutes that are over and above our three hundred sixty five days so the Turks that they may not leave those minutes behind which enter not into the account of their three hundred fifty four days every thirty years add a day eleven times ro the last of their Months called Zouâ—hidge that is to say that in eleven Years of thirty it hath thirty days to wit the second year the fifth the seventh the tenth the thirteenth the fifteenth the eighteenth the twenty first the twenty fourth the twenty sixth and the twenty ninth in all the other years this Month hath but 29 days But now to return to the Ramadan this is the Month in which as they say the Alcoran came down from Heaven in and therein they fast which they begin in this manner The begining of the Ramadan when the Moon of Chaaban which immediately preceeds that of Ramadan is over they look out at Night for the new Moon which commonly they see not the first day of our account however there are People that stand upon Hills and other high places to endeavour to see it So soon as any one hath seen it The time of the Ramadan he comes and publishes it in the City and if he be a Man of Credit he hath a Reward given him and Ramadan is appointed all the Town over by publick Proclamation and not only so but also by firing of a Gun in the Evening then all the Minarets are set round with Lamps in such order that they represent several Figures which is done every Night of this Moon In the Ramadan the Turks turn the days into nights and the nights into days during which they turn the Days into Nights and the Nights into Days for all day long they sleep and in the Night-time the Streets and Coffee-Houses are full of People and all fall to Junketing and Reveling as long as the Night lasts but as soon as the dawning appears they leave off eating and drinking It is said in the Alcoran that they may eat and drink all Night long untill they can distinguish a white Thread from a Black by the Morning Light after that it is unlawful for them to eat drink or smoak Tobacco in a word to put any thing into their Mouths nay more to touch their Wives till the Moon appear again at Night The cry of the Muezims in the Ramadan which is told them by the Muezims calling to Prayers from the tops of the Minarets when it is time to break their Fast and then they eat and drink all in the Night-time their Bellies full of Flesh or Fish as they please and spend part of the Night in the Coffee-Houses which are all open and full of Musicians players on Instruments and Puppet-players who there strive to get their Livings This kind of Lent is very chargeable The Lent of the Turks troublesom and much more troublesome than ours especially when it happens in the Summer-time for as their Years consist of twelve Months or Moons of which six have thirty and the other six nine and twenty days alternatly and therefore not agreeing with the course of the Sun they are shorter than ours by eleven days and so the Ramadan falls back eleven days every year and always changes the Season When it happens in Summer they suffer much through Thirst especially in Aegypt and other hot Countries it being unlawful for them to put so much as a drop of fair water into their Mouth and indeed they endeavour to sleep all day long I have seen some in Aegypt in the heat of Summer who being almost burn'd up with Thirst durst not drink but finding the Hour draw nigh when it is lawful for them to drink and eat they held a Pitcher in their Hand and look'd up to the next
Crowns upon the Deck in the Ships Wast These Cabins are like presses made along the ship side I put my quilt into mine and crept into it by a little hole but being within I neither felt cold nor the tossing of the Vessel for I was in the middle of the Ships length There were so many such Cabins in this Ship that not only the Officers but all the Sea-men likewise had every one his Cabin some also lay in Hammocks made fast to the Deck above which is very commodious for let the Ship toss never so much it is not to be felt in these Hammocks which hang always perpendicular The English are very good Sea-men and observe excellent order on board their Ships not dismayed at all at bad Weather and so exact in keeping account of the ships way every day that during all our Voyage I never knew them six miles out in their reckoning They measure the Ships way with a Log or little flat and very thin piece of Wood tied to a line and when they throw it into the Sea they turn a half minute Sand-Glass there being an hundred and twenty of them in an hour and then drop the Log from the Stern letting the line run off till the Glass be out then they pull in the line and reckon how much of it hath been in the water every seven fathom of the line making a mile in an hour this they did every time the Wind encreased or abated never grudging their labour and the four Mates were always present when they heaved the Log who after it was done went to their several Cabins and set down how much the ship had run for every one of them keeps a Journal This is very useful to know how far the ship is from Land and to prevent running a-shoar in the Night-time in short the English are very expert in that That which only displeased me in this Voyage was the great number of Candles that were lighted in the Night time betwixt Decks and in the Cabins for there were above thirty Barbary Men on board who had been at Mecha and were returning into their own Country all these Men lay upon the lower Gun-Deck there being a rank of Beds on each side and a passage in the middle betwixt them and had all their lighted Lamps stuck to the Deck and burning in the Night-time which made me always extremely afraid the Ship might be set on fire and besides that since the least glipse of light is in the Night-time seen a great way off at Sea I was apprehensive it might have directed some Corsair or some Ship of the Venetian Fleet towards us For I had smarted already and knew very well what Blades they were nay more I fancied that they were not careful enough in smoaking their Tobacco However they told me still that there was no danger in what I feared CHAP. LXXXVII Our Ships sailing from Bouquer TVesday the fourth of February the Purser who was still at Alexandria came on board with some Provisions and then having taken in our Boats we set sail from Bouquer Wednesday the fifth of February we steered our course North with an easie West-wind it was a calm in the Evening but in the Night it blew hard from West with several storms of Rain and Wind which lasted till next day at Noon Thursday the sixth of February All that while we bore away North-north-west in the Evening the Wind shifted about to North-west and lasted till next day the seventh of February when after Noon the Wind turning North-north-west we tackt and stood away West-south-west least the Wind might force us too near the Isle of Rhodes The night following the Wind slackned and Saturday the eighth of February we were becalmed from Morning till Noon when we had a little Gale from South then we steered away West-north-west but the Wind lasted not After that to our great trouble we were becalmed for several days Saturday-night or Sunday-morning the sixteenth of February there fell a great deal of Rain which lasted till day when we were still becalmed and about eleven a Clock in the Morning with a breeze of Wind from West-north-west we stood away South-west the Wind blowing fresher in the evening until Midnight during that time we tackt and stood away towards the Isle of Candia and the Night being very dark we ran so far till we saw a Light close on Head which the Men could not discern whether it was ashoar or in a small Pinnace which in the day-time we saw making for Candia at length for fear of striking on Ground they tackt about again before Midnight bearing away South-west Monday the seventeenth of February after Midnight the Winds so chopt and changed that we had all sorts of Winds and about Morning it blew so hard from West-north-west that we were forced to furl all our Sails except the Main-sail and tye the Helm to Midships this Wind brought with it many storms of Rain that lasted not long About one a Clock after Noon it Hailed which changed the Wind to the North but seeing it blew harder than it had done in the Morning we could not carry high Sails but continued the same Course If the Wind had not been so violent we would have steered our Course West-north-west This Wind lasted till Tuesday the eighteenth of February when about an hour before day it slackened a little and then we spread our Fore-sail the Wind being still too high to carry our Maintop-sail however we stood away West the Wind abating a little after we spread our Maintop-sail and shortly after that the Mizzain and Foretop-sail After noon the Wind chopt about to North-west and blew so fresh that we were forced to furl our Foretop-sail and steered away West-south-west till Wednesday Morning the nineteenth of February when the Wind changing to North-north-west we put abroad our Foretop-sail again and stood away West and a little after we spread all our Sails About two hours after day we made Cape Rasaxarra Rasaxarra in Barbary and stood in within almost thirty Miles of it it is a very low Land then we tackt about again towards the Gozo of Candia About two hours before night we were becalmed and about two hours after Night was in we had the long look'd for East Wind but it was easie however with it we steered our course West-north-west until Thursday Morning the twentieth of February when after a little Rain that fell the Wind chopt about to South-south-east whilst in the mean time we made all sail and stood away North-north-west a little after we turned our Ships-head to West-north-west running above eight Miles an hour upon a Wind which we would have continued to do had we not been afraid to have been embeyed within a bad Gulf Hihal called Hihal that runs out into the Sea and therefore we stood away before the Wind till we had weathered it all this while the Fore-sail and Sprit-sail did us no service
breez from South-west which within half an hour after changed into a stronger Gale from East and we continued our course Northwards We had a calm again about Noon which lasted till next day Friday the fourth of April when about eight a Clock in the morning it blew a gentle South-east Gale which about Noon turned full South and about three or four a Clock next morning it blew a good fresh Gale from West half an hour after we discovered a Polaque a-stern and close up with us which made very quick way We called to him Alarga and turned all out and stood to our Arms. At length he sailed by to the Windward within a Pistol shot of us which our Captain observing commanded a Broadside to be fired at him but the chief Mate dissuaded him telling him that if he was a Corsair his Consorts who probably could not be far off would hear the noise of the Guns and so come up with us in the mean time he made very great way Hereupon various Judgments past Some said they were Spaniards who would have surprised us Others that it was one of the Polaques that Trade betwixt Legorn and Sardinia for Cheese and such like Commodities and carrying but three or four Men they might have been asleep and so did not see our Ship. But most part thought it was a Prize taken by the Barbary-men which they sent into Barbary seeing when they passed by us they called Cbaban who was Reys of a Tunis Man of War then out at Sea taking our Ship perhaps for Chaban Reys his Ship. About three a Clock in the morning we passed Sardinia and all that we could see of the Land for two days space that we sailed along the Goast of it were only very high Mountains And now we were got into the entry of the streight that is betwixt Sardinia and Corsica there the wind blew so fresh that we made above seven Miles an hour which was a great deal for such a heavy Ship as ours We kept our Course still Northward and about ten a Clock in the Morning made Monte Christo a little after Elba and on the other side Corsica and then we steered North-north-west About eleven a Clock in the Forenoon the Wind changed to South-west and blew pretty hard and about that time we made a Sail which strove to get the Wind of us about Noon he was got to the Windward and being within Cannon shot put out English Colours and we did the like but he still bearing down upon us we halled up our Main-sail and waited for him When he was come up with us our Men knew it to be a Flemish Pinck commanded by an English-man who had bought it He told us that he came from Legorn and was bound for Tunis that the Palaque we met was a Prize taken by a Caraveue and Bark of Tunis that were Consorts that he had met with them but that he had seen no Spanish Ship which much rejoyced us After that he drank our Captains health and fired a Gun which our Captain having answered he went his way and we followed our Course The Wind slackened much in the Afternoon and about five a Clock in the Evening we made two Sail near the Land of Corsica which strove for the Wind of us We thought they had been the two Barbary men they told us of however we stood upon our Guard. About six a Clock at night we were almost becalmed and we discovered Fires a-shoar in Corsica which as I think they made because of those two Corsairs About seven a Clock the Wind turned Easterly and we held on our course North-north-west leaving Monte Christo a-stern of us About nine a Clock the head-most of the two Corsairs sailed by a pretty way to the Windward of us and continued his Course I believe they were afraid of us however we were all night upon our Guard. We were then becalmed till next day Sunday the sixth of April when about five a Clock in the morning an easie Gale began to blow from East which by little and little freshened and we stood away North-north-east About six a Clock in the morning we made a Sail coming upon us afore the Wind and we kept on our Course to meet him when he was come within a League or thereabouts of us he put out White Colours and we look'd upon that to be but a Trick of a Spanish Corsair In short we shew'd the English Colours and he continued following us till eight a Clock in the morning when he Tackt about and stood away the way that we came Perhaps he was afraid when he saw our Guns out and that we did not run for it Some thought that it was one of the two Corsairs whom we had seen the day before Others that it was a Spaniard And others again that it was a French-man In the mean time we made way still and within a little passed the Isle of Elba of which the Spaniards have one half Elba It hath two good Ports the one is called Porto Ferraro and belongs to the great Duke and the other Porto Longone and belongs to the Spaniards The French took it in the Year One thousand six hundred and forty six but lost it again One thousand six hundred and fifty About ten a Clock we were becalmed about two in the Afternoon we had an easie Gale from North-north-west and steered our course West-north-west An hour after we made a Ship and a Bark a-stern and another Ship on head of us About four a Clock we saw the Ship a stern give chase to the Bark and afterwards take her About six a Clock we passed the Isle Caprara leaving it to the Starboard Caprara because of the contrary Wind. When we were come near to it they made a Smoak upon the Tower to give warning to the Coast and there we put out our Colours From that place we made a Ship at the point of the Island and on the other hand a Fisher-Boat This Isle belongs to the Genoese it is small not being above ten Miles in Circuit but fruitful in good Wine On the South-side of it there is a little Tower and a Castle on the North-side which has fifty Soldiers in Garison and about an hundred Inhabitants who are so much given to Shooting there being great store of Game upon the Island that for five or six pound of Powder they 'll give you a Barrel of Wine and thanks to boot The Anchovy Fishing There and before the Isle Gorgona they fish for Anchoves and in Fishing-season so many Boats come there upon that account that about the Month of May there are above five hundred Souls lodged in the Castle CHAP. LXXXXV The Relation of an Engagement we had with three Spanish Corsairs SVnday night and Monday morning the seventh of April the Wind was fickle sometimes Westerly sometimes Easterly but blew always fresh and we still kept on our Course but Monday the
had in all places not finding above three or four Fathom at most The Wind continued in that corner all day blowing fresher and fresher still and in the evening though the Wind was high yet the Clouds raked contrary to it from North-West to South-East from eight till ten a Clock at night we had several small showers of Rain at length after midnight the Wind changed into the so much desired North-West Wind and blew very hard Sunday the fifteenth of November the other Ships made Sail about break of day and we lay still at Anchor which extremely vexed the Merchants who thereupon came to words with the Captain but he told them that the other Ships were bound for Congo and that his must put into the Isle Carek which was near so that it would be time enough to weigh at noon that we might not run in too near the Land in danger to be cast away by so high a Wind nevertheless to please them he commanded to weigh about seven a Clock in the morning but he made Sail only with Fore-Sail Fore-Top-Sail and Sprit-Sail we Steered our Course South-East and the Ship run about four Miles and a half an hour About six a Clock at night we stood away East and about seven a Clock North-East and then furled all our Sails except the Sprit-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail having then fifteen Fathom water About ten a Clock we furled all our Sails but the Sprit-Sail Monday the sixth of November the Wind ceased about two a Clock in the morning and began to blow again about six but not so strong as the day before that we might not lose it about half an hour after we spread all our Sails and Steered away South-East It was not long before we made the main Land of Bender-Regh to the Larboard About half an hour after nine we made the Isle Carek on Head Cargou and about noon we Sailed near to the Isle Cargou which was to our Larboard This Isle reaches in length from North to South it is but small and all of white Sand which is the reason it is not inhabited it is close by and almost over against the Isle Carek but a little lower towards Bender Regh Then we furled our Mizan and Main-Sail and Steered away South At one of the Clock we found thirteen Fathom water About half an hour after we began to have the Isle Carek on our Starboard and bore away South South-East having then six Fathom water Half an hour after two we had eight Fathom water and turned the Ships Head Head South-West Three quarters after two we came to an Anchor to the East of the Island towards the point of it that looks to the South-East in ten Fathom water There we found one of the three Ships that had left us at Anchor having some Goods to unload but the other two kept out at Sea. The Isle of Carek reaches in length from South-East to North-West Carek it is very narrow and about three or four Leagues in compass it is about twelve Leagues from Bender-Regh and fifty from Bassora This Island is partly hilly and partly plain it produces Wheat Barley Dates and good Grapes there is very good water upon it also which comes from a Hill that has many ancient Wells ten or twelve Fathoms deep dug in the Rock on the top of it and as I was told there are steps in them to go down to the bottom and the people of the Island go thither to take the fresh Air in the Summer-time The water passes at the bottom of these Wells and from thence runs under ground into the Plain near to these Wells there is a Mosque upon the Hill. There may be at least an hundred and fifty Houses in all the Island as I was told but they are scattered up and down and to speak properly they are no more but pitiful Huts nevertheless every one of them has a Well of Spring-water Near to that Isle they Fish for Pearl Pearl-Fishing at the same time they do at Bahrem and I was told that during the season of Fishing which is in May June July and August there are to be seen about this Island above an hundred Taranquins or Fisher-Boats The King of Persia is Lord of it and has a Governour there who depends on the Governour of Bender Regh The people of this Island are all Fishermen and live only on Salt Fish and Dates The Ships that are bound for Bassora commonly touch at this place to take in a Pilot who conducts them to Bassora and brings them back again at four months end to the same Island where they leave him There we left ours Arrival at the Isle of Carek who had been taken in four months before But it was not only to set him a shoar that we touched at that Island our chief business was to unload Goods belonging to Codgiaminas which were Indigo Cloaths and other Indian Commodities brought in the same Ship and which not being disposed of at Bassora through the bad Conduct of the Vikil he was necessitated to reimbark and send them to Carek to be conveyed from thence to Bender-Regh and so to Ispahan Besides they made account to take on Board several Armenian Merchants and their mony who waited on this Island for a passage to the Indies for within these late years the Armenians that they may not pay Custom at Congo have taken the Course to go streight from Schiras to Bender-Regh where there is no Custom-House and from thence pass over to Carek where they wait for the opportunity of some Ships coming that way which may carry them and their mony However the Mouson before some Armenians upon their return from the Indies having put a shoar at Bender-Regh to avoid the Customs of Congo the Customer went to Law with them about it at Ispahan pretending that they ought to pay him the Custom and it was thought that it would cost them at least a good part of the mony which they must have paid at Congo and that for the future there would be a Custom-House established at Bender-Regh The Ships that touch at Carek keep out at Sea to the Westward of it to shun the danger of being cast away in that narrow streight which is betwixt Carek and Cargou As soon as we were come to an Anchor five or six small Taranquins which are those sowed Boats I described before came a Board of us to take in all the Goods that were for Persia which lasted from five till half an hour after seven a Clock at night Our Company were much deceived as to the Armenian Merchants for contrary to their expectation they found not one which was occasioned by a trick of a Dutchman Captain of the Ship called the Masulipatan The trick of a Dutch man. who had given them a cast of his Trade This Ship being gone from Bassora a day before we put out was come to Carek two days sooner than we did the
Captain making use of the occasion failed not to tell the Merchants who waited for our Ship that she would not come this year which they believed to be true and went aboard with their mony on his Ship. All this proceeded from the fault of the Vikil that stayed behind at Bassora who detained the Ship in the Harbour a Fortnight longer than he should have done to get on Board some Goods which payed not above an hundred Piastres Freight and in the mean while he lost the Freight of a great deal of Goods and Mony and of many Passengers that were at Carek Congo and Comoron who embarked in the Ships which touched at these Ports before us When we had put a shoar all the Goods and the Man who was to take care of them we weighed Anchor three quarters of an hour after seven making all the Sail we could and Steering away South South-East with a very easie Wind about ten a Clock we were becalmed till midnight when there blew a little Gale at East but as easie as the former and with it we bore away South Next day about two or three a Clock in the morning we Sailed by the Isle of Rischer which was to our Larboard This Island is very near the main Land and makes a little Port which is called Bender-Rischer a days Journy from Bender-Regh and there is a Fort on it which belonged formerly to the Portuguese At break of day we made two Ships on Head of us one of which had put out from Carek five days before us Half an hour after seven we were off of the Isle of Coucher Coucher that was to our Larboard and is a pretty big Island At eight a Clock we got a Head of one of the Ships that had been before us the other which was at some distance put us into some apprehension for a few hours time for by his manner of working he gave us cause to think that he had a mind to be up with us and we were affraid he might be a Corsair but at length he Steered the same Course that we did About ten a Clock we were becalmed Three quarters after twelve the Wind being Southerly we Steered away East A quarter after two we Steered South-East Three quarters after three a Clock the Wind chopping about to South-West we stood away South South-East And thus the Wind being but very easie did nothing but chop and change until the evening that we were becalmed Wednesday the eighteenth of November towards day having an easie Gale from East South-East we Steered our Course South South-West about half an hour after nine it blowing hard from South we bore away West South-West About three quarters of an hour after ten the Wind turned South South-East and we Steered East Half an hour after noon the Wind slackened much and about five a Clock in the evening we were becalmed About half an hour after nine we made a Sail to the Windward of us and another on Head but a great way before us we cast the Lead and found seventeen Fathom water At ten a Clock at night the Wind turned East South-East and blew pretty hard and we Steered away South South-West finding only thirteen Fathom water when we heaved the Lead After midnight we past Cape Verdestan which was to our Larboard This is a very dangerous Cape and one night several Portuguese Ships being Land-lockt there when they thought themselves far enough off of it were cast away We Sailed within three or four Leagues of it and when it was day saw it a Stern of us About half an hour after nine the Wind turned South South-East and we Steered East About noon we saw several Taranquins Half an hour after one the Wind turned South South-West and we bore away South-East We were then off and on Cape Naban to our Larboard Cape Naban and made it but very dimly but coming up more and more towards it we made it very plain and saw along the Sea-side Rocky Hills which seemed to be very steep and at the foot of them a great many Palm-Trees We continued our Course off and on with these Rocks till five a Clock that we saw the end of them at least in this place they run far up into the Land and leave a very level Coast in this low Country is the Village called Naban which gives the name to the Cape Here we cast the Lead and found only seven Fathom water there is but little water all along that Coast and therefore we presently tackt and stood off to the West about ten a Clock at night the Wind turned North-East and we Steered away South South-East Friday the twentieth of November by break of day we made the three Ships that put out the same day with us from Bassora two of which were at a pretty good distance to the Starboard and the other very near a Head of us it was this last which some days before we had taken for a Corsair we made also to our Larboard the Land of Persia but at a great distance A quarter after nine a Clock in the morning having a very easie Gale from North North-West we put out our Main and Fore-Top-Galant-Sail and kept on our Course South South-East in a short time we left all the other Ships a Stern About noon the Wind blew much fresher and about three a Clock we stood away East South-East about five a Clock we took in our Top-Galant-Sails the Mizan and Mizan-Top-Sails because it would have been dangerous to have made so much way in the night-time that was now coming on for we might have run within Land considering that the Wind freshened more and more and we bore away South South-East that we might keep without the Isle of Lara If it had been day we would have Steered our Course betwixt the main Land and that Island but we durst not venture it in the night-time being safer to leave it to the Larboard we made account to have Sailed by that Island about midnight but we saw it not though we had all along light enough to discern a little of the main Land near to which it lyes We concluded then that we had past that Isle of Lara in the night-time but next day we found that we were out in our reckoning Nevertheless seeing we did not find out our mistake till after noon about six a Clock in the morning we Steered away East bearing in towards the Land for fear we might be cast too far to the Leeward of Congo About half an hour after six our Long-Boat that was fastened to the Stern filled full of water and sunk under the surface of the Sea we presently furled all Sails but the Sprit-Sail and three Seamen swam to the Boat to fasten another Rope to it which they held by the end then they went into it and we halled it to the Leeward side of the Ship and took out a little Anchor that was in her this being done our
Turks go to the House-of-office they put the left foot foremost to the end the Angel who registers their sins may leave them first and when they come out they set the right foot before that the Angel who writes down their good works may have them first under protection They also believe that after a man is buried the Soul returns to the Body and that two very terrible Angels come into the grave the one called Munkir Munkir Guanequir and the other Guanequir who take him by the head and make him kneel and that for that reason they leave a tuft of Hair on the crown of their head The examination of the Dead so soon as they are in the grave that the Angels who make them kneel may take hold of it After that the Angels examine him in this manner Who is thy God thy Religion and Prophet And he answers thus My God is the true God my Religion is the true Religion and my Prophet is Mahomet But if that Man find himself to be guilty and being afraid of their tortures shall say You are my God and my Prophet and it is in You that I believe at such an Answer these Angels smite him with a Mace of fire and depart and the earth squeezes the poor wretch so hard that his Mothers milk comes running out at his nose The state of the Wicked after death After that come two other Angels bringing an ugly creature with them that represents his sins and bad deeds changed into that form then opening a window they depart into Hell and the Man remains there with that ugly creature being continually tormented with the sight of it and the common miseries of the damned until the Day of Judgment when both go to Hell together But if he hath lived well and made the first answer above mentioned The state of the Good after death they bring him a lovely creature which represents his good actions changed into that form then the Angels opening a window go away to Paradise and the lovely creature remains which gives him a great deal of content and stays with him until the Day of Judgment when both are received into Paradise Another state of Souls after death Others say that if he make a bad answer one of these Angels gives him such a rap with a mace of Iron on the head that he beats him down seven fathom deep into the ground and the other pulls him out with an iron hook and then the first begins to strike again and so continue the one striking down and the other pulling up till the Day of Judgment And that if he answer well two white Angels shall keep him company till the Day of Judgment Whereby it appears they believe that Souls go neither to Heaven nor Hell till the Day of Judgment CHAP. XXXI Of the Beasts that shall enter into Paradise THE Turks as we said before admit of a Paradise but they believe much more than we do for they believe that not only the good Musulmans shall enter into it but also certain Beasts and Fowl Beasts in Paradise which are these that follow The first is the Camel of the Prophet Saleh the second the Ram that Abraham sacraficed Moses's Cow Salomon's Ant the Queen of Sheba's Parret the Ass of Ezra the Whale of Jonas a little Dog which they call Kitmer and the Camel of Mahomet But we must know what it is that made these Beasts to merit Paradise for they tell tales of them The Camel of Saleb And first of the Camel of Saleh This Saleh was a Prophet before the time of Mahomet in great esteem among the Arabians Persians and Turks who going to convert the Infidels in Persia and other Places they prayed him to work a Miracle which he granted them and made a Camel that had been killed by one named Chudar Chudar to come alive out of a Rock this Camel they say is still alive and the cry of it is heard at present by all who pass that way but that when Camels go that way they beat Timbrels discharge their Muskets and make a great noise for fear the Camels should hear this cry for if they heard it they would not stir Abraham's Ram is that which the Angel Gabriel brought to that Patriarch Abraham's Ram. and which he sacraficed in place of his Son Isaac when God commanded him to do it for a tryal of his Faith. That which they call the Cow of Moses The Cow of Moses is the Red Cow whose Ashes were mingled with the Water of Purification Salomon was the Greatest King that ever was for all Creatures obey'd him and brought him Presents amongst others an Ant brought him a Locust which it had dragg'd along by main force Salomon's Ant. Salomon perceiving that the Ant had brought a thing bigger than itself accepted of the Present and preferred it before all other Creatures The Parret or Hoope of the Queen of Sheba as some others will have it The Parret of the Queen of Sheba was the Messenger that carried and brought her news of Salomon Ezra the Prophet being in dispute with Infidels concerning the Resurrection he prayed to God to shew them some Miracle that might make them believe it immediately his Ass that was dead and rotten many years before rose again Ezra's Ass at which the People were converted and believed Jonas's Whale is also to go to Paradise because it cast out Jonas upon dry-land There was a King who persecuted all that served God at his Court now there were four Men Of four Sleepers faithful Servants of God who having consulted together fled and hid themselves in a Cave and as they were upon the way a little Dog followed them but when they perceived it one of them threw a stone at it and broke one of its legs immediately thereupon the Dog asked them Why have you broken my leg They answered Because you follow us and seeing we are going to serve God whom we love and fear by your means we may be apprehended and destroyed The little Dog Kitmer The Dog replied If you love God I love you and I pray you take me along with you which they did and went to the Cave where they remained with the Dog which lying under the door cried Hou that in Arabick signifies him that is to say God. There they stayed the space of three hundred threescore and twelve years and then awaking sent one of their number to the Town to buy Bread this Man coming to a Baker with his old Money was apprehended and carried before a Magistrate who questioning him where he had got that Money he related the whole affair and was then brought before the King who wondered much at the matter and went with his People to the Cave to see the rest This Man who served for a Guide coming near to the Cave prayed the King to let him go before to acquaint his
they wash they should say these words Bis millah el azem ve ellem doullillah allahdin islam Things unlawful when they wash That 's to say In the Name of the great God and praise to God the God of the Musulman Faith. When they wash there are some things unlawful which they call Meschreh as to wipe the Nose with the right Hand to wash any part oftner than thrice to wash with water heated in the Sun and to throw the water strong upon the Face There are many things also that render the Abdest unprofitable so that when any of these things happen they must begin it again Things that render them unclean And though they were not to pray yet after one of these they must wash their Hands or else they are unclean they are these If they happen to break Wind upwards or downwards if any blood or nastiness come out of their Body if they happen to Vomit fall into Passion faint away be Drunk laugh in time of Prayer embrace a Woman and touch any naked part of her to sleep during Prayer And indeed if any one fall asleep in time of Prayer the rest who are washed and prepared to pray will have a care not to awaken him for by doing so they would be unclean as well as he to be touched by a Dog or any other unclean Beast all these accidents evacuate the Abdest it must be renewed again before they begin their Prayers CHAP. XXXVII Of the form of their Mosques and their Prayers The form of the Mosques HAving spoken of their Ablutions some thing must be said of the form of their Mosques before I treat of their Prayers Their Mosques are called Mesdgid from whence the word Mosque hath been corrupted they are also called Dgemii that is to say place of Assembly These Mosques on the outside are like our Churches they have close by the side of them a Tower or Minaret and sometimes two four or six according to the stateliness of their Fabricks and these Minarets have a Balcony all round on the top Minarets The use they make of these Minarets is that at the hour of Prayer a Muezim goes up to the top of the Minaret and calls to Prayers The inside of the Mosques is very plain nothing to be seen but the four bare Walls on which the Name of God is written and in one of the Walls their is as it were a Niche which they call Keble that is to say the place to which they turn when they Pray This Niche in all the Mosques of Turkie is on the South Wall because when they pray they ought to turn towards Mecha Of the Keble which is to the South in respect of Turkie heretofore their Keble was towards the Temple of Salomon in Jerusalem to which they were to turn when they Prayed but Mahomet changed it in the second year of the Hegyra and put it on the side of Mecha which they have ever since observed They have also in their Mosque a piece of Stuff that has served at Mecha and a Pulpit where an Imam sometimes Preaches The floor of the Mosque is covered with Mats The hours of the Turks Prayers that the People may not be incommoded at Prayers They have Prayers five times a day the first is at break of day which they call Sabahnamaz the second at Noon which they call Oilehnamaz the third betwixt three and four of the Clock in the Afternoon which they call Quindinamaz the fourth at Sun setting which they call Akschamnamaz the fifth an hour after Night is in which they call Yatbinamaz On Friday which is their Sunday they have Prayers also at Nine a Clock in the Morning which they call Couschloucnamazi to which all goe and after that they may Work and open their Shops but most part Rest and make Merry that day which they call Dgiuma en hiun that is to say the day of Congregation When the hour of any of these Prayers is come for they whose business it is to mind that have for that end Hour-glasses and besides are regulated by the Sun when it shines a Muezim who is he that calls to Prayers goes up to a Minaret at every Mosque and stopping his Ears with his Fingers he sings and crys these words with all his force Allah ekber The words which the Muezims sing on the top of the Minarets allah ekber allah ekber eschadou in la illah illallah eschadou in Mahomet resoul allah hi alle sallatt hi alle fellat allah ekber allah ekber allah ekber allah ekber la illah illallah which is to say God is great God is great God is great God is great shew that there is but one God shew that Mahomet is his Prophet come and present your selves to the mercy of God and ask forgiveness of your Sins God is great God is great God is great God is great there is no other God but God he crys the same words towards the four Corners of the World beginning at the South and ending at the West Whilst he is crying every one does the Abdest and then all go to the Mosque They who cannot go to the Mosque say their Prayers at Home Being come to the Mosque Entring into the Mosques they leave their Shoes all leave their Paboutches or Shoes at the door and such as are afraid that they may be changed take them off their Feet and carry them with them in their Hand When they are entred they make a bow to the Keble then take their place and wait till the Imam which signifies Prelate begins their Prayer by these words Allah ekber that is to say God is great then they that are present say softly or aloud if they please I will imitate that Imam in what he doeth and they do all that he does And first The manner of the Turks Praying they put their hands upon their Shoulders and say Allah ekber then laying their Hands one over another upon the Navil they say some Prayers softly to themselves and at the end of every one prostrate themselves upon the Ground and say Allah ekber They are no longer prostrate than they can say a short Prayer then they rise and so prostrate themselves again several times If they pray in private they say to themselves I am going to say the Prayers appointed for the time which they name and pray as if they were in the Mosque They say the same Prayers every day only they repeat them more or less according to the Days When they lay their Hands upon their Shoulders the meaning of it is That they have quitted all Worldly Things and that they are in the presence of God. When they prostrate themselves that signifies that they adore God. At the Sabahnamaz when they pray How many Prostrations the Turks make they prostrate themselves eight times at Noon twenty times at the Quindy sixteen times at the Akschamnamaz ten times and at the Yatsinamaz twenty
four times When they pray they may be all Naked except their privy parts and so may their Slaves both Men and Women but Free-women are not permitted to do so for they are to be covered all over when they pray unless it be one half of the Cheek and Chin. This is the difference betwixt the Ceremonies of the Men and of the Women when they pray the Men lift up their Hands to their Shoulders say Allah ekber and then lay them on their Navil the Women lift them up but half way to their Shoulders and then lay them upon their Breasts saying their Prayers as the Men do and performing their Ablutions in the same manner Great Devotion of the Turks When Prayers are ended all both Men and Women bow first to the right side and then to the left as saluting the two Angels Kerim Kiatib In short none can be more Devout than they are for when they are in the Mosque they pray so affectionately that they turn neither this way nor that way what ever may happen And in my time a Fire breaking out one Night of the Ramadan in Constantinople at the hour of Prayer a Renegado told me next day that those who were at that time in the same Mosque where he was which was not far from the place where the Fire was consulted which was best not to break off their Prayers or go and put out the Fire and at length they resolved upon the latter The Reverence of the Turks in their Mosques They are never seen to Prattle and Talk in their Mosques where they carry themselves always with great Reverence and certainly they give us a Lesson for Devotion There are but few who go not every day to Prayers at least to those of Noon Quindy and Ackscham for many perform the other two at Home nor does Travelling excuse them for when they know that it is about the hour of Prayer they stop in the Fields near to some Water and having drawn Water in a tinned Copper-Pot which they carry always purposely about with them they do the Abdest then spread a little Carpet upon the ground without which they never Travel and say their Prayers upon it They have Chaplets also which they often say for most part have them always in their Hand whether it be at Home or abroad in the Streets talking with their Friends Buying or Selling or drinking Coffee and at every Bead they turn they say Allah which is the Name of God. CHAP. XXXVIII Of the Charity of the Turks and the Pilgramage to Mecha Charity of the Turks THE Turks Fourth Command is Charity by that Command they are obliged to give yearly to the Poor the fortieth part of their Goods if they have poor Kindred they ought to prefer them before others if they have none they should give their Charity to their poor Neighbours and if they have no poor Neighbours they give it to the first they meet This Command is not ill observed among the Turks for they are very charitable and very willingly help the wretched without minding Religion whether they be Turks The reason why there are few Beggars among the Turks Christians or Jews I will not say that the Charity alone of the Rich hinders the beggary of the Turks there are in my opinion other causes for most part of the Turks have pay from the Grand Signior they live at a cheap rate and make good chear of a small matter so that a little Pilau a bit of Meat and a small portion of water will make to them a considerable Feast Charitable Donations of the Turks But after all they perform great acts of charity some in their life-time relieve the Poor with their Goods and others at their death leave great Estates for the founding of Hospitals building of Bridges Kervanserrais or Inns for the Caravans bringing Water to the High-ways and such other publick Works nay many of them see them done in their own life-time others again at their death give their Slaves their liberty They who can't be charitable with their Purses do good with their Hands employing themselves in mending the High-ways filling the Cisterns that are there standing by the Waters when they are out that they may shew Travellers the Foard and all this for Gods sake refusing money when it is offered them for they do it as they say for the sake of God and not for the sake of Money Their Charity extends also even to Beasts and Birds The charity of the Turks toward Beasts and all Market-days there are a great many who go and buy Birds which they presently set at liberty saying that the Souls of these Birds will come at the Day of Judgment and declare in the presence of God the kindness that they have received from them and indeed they cannot endure to see a Beast kept in pain for when they kill their Pullets they cut of their head at one blow and if they saw a man kill any after the French way they would not forbear to cudgel him nay they reckon it cruelty to kill a Louse or Flea with the nail they do no more but give them one or two turns betwixt the finger and thumb and then throw them away dead or alive There are others who at their death leave considerable Means for the feeding so many Dogs or Cats so many times a week and give the money to Bakers or Butchers for performing that charity which is faithfully and punctually enough put in execution and it is very pleasant to see every day Men loaded with meat go and call the Dogs and Cats of the Foundation and being surrounded with them distribute it among them by commons I could here give an hundred Instances of the charity of the Turks towards Beasts An instance of the charity of the Turks toward Beasts I have seen them often practice such as to us would seem very ridiculous I have seen several Men in good garb stop in a street stand round a Bitch that had newly puppied and all go and gather stones to make a little wall about her lest some heedless person might tread upon her and many such like Examples but it is not my design to trouble the Reader with such trifles In fine Sultan Amurath who in all appearance had no Religion and who made so slight a matter of the life of a man that if a day past wherein he had not put some body to death he was out of humour this cruel Prince I say was affected with that superstitious and bestial compassion for seeing a man one day stop at the corner of a street in Constantinople to dine on a piece of Bread and a bit of roast Meat which he had bought hard by and hold his Horse that was loaded with Goods he had to sell by the bridle he ordered the Horse to be unloaded and the load put upon the Master's back obliging him to continue so all the while that
Coffins The use of the Stone erected upon Graves When the Grave is filled up they erect a stone over the head of the deceased to serve for a seat to the Angels who are to examine him that they may be the milder to him but the Richer have Tombs of Marble rais'd as ours are with a Stone whereon the Turban of the Deceased is cut Somtimes they erect a Stone at the Head with a Turban of Stone like to that the Deceased wore and another at his Feet with his Epitapth Their Burying-places are always without the Town that the Air might not be Infected by the corrupt Vapours that rise out of the Graves and that was always observed by the Ancients For the same reason those of the Turks are distinct from those of the Christians and the Turks Burying-places are commonly by the Highway sides that Travellers may remember to pray to God for them and wish them happiness and upon the very same account they who build a Bridge or any other publick work are commonly Buried upon or near it that they may have the Prayers of the Passengers There are so many great Stones erected in some of these Burying-places that they might serve to build a Town Now after they have Interred their dead the Relations and Friends for several days come and pray upon the Grave beseeching God to deliver the Deceased from the Torture of the Black Angels and calling to him bid him not be afraid but answer them stoutly and the Women also with their acquaintance come and spend several hours there nay sometimes half a day in bewailing the Dead as they did at home in the House so that a Man who were not informed of this and saw them in that posture would make no doubt but they were Mad-women Victuals and Drink upon the Graves of the Dead On Friday many bring Victuals and Drink which they leave upon the Graves and Travellers may freely eat and drink there They do so that those that come there may pray for Gods Blessing on him for whose sake that charity is given CHAP. XLIV A Summary of the Humour of the Turks Humour of the Turks HAving described at length the Customs and Practices of the Turks it will be fit in this place to make a little Recapitulation and in a few words represent their Nature and Manners In Christendom many think that the Turks are Devils Barbarous and men of no Faith and Honestty but such as know them and have conversed with them have a far different opinion for it is certain the Turks are good People and observe very well that command of Nature not to do to others but what we would have others to do to us When I speak here of Turks I understand Natural Turks and not such as turn to their Religion from another who are very numerous in Turkie and are certainly capable of all sorts of Wickedness and Vice as is known by Experience and commonly as unfaithful to Men as they have been to God but the native Turks are honest People and love honest People be they Turks Christians or Jews Nor do they think it lawful to Cheat or Rob a Christian more than a Turk I know very well I may be asked Why then do they so Extortion the Franks But it is certain that the Christians and Jews put them upon it and corrupt them these Men being themselves the Instruments of one anothers ruine through a damnable Envy that reigns ever amongst the Frank that are in the Levant The Turks zealous for their Religion The Turks Loyal to their Prince Usury is esteemed a very great sin by the Turks and is but little practised They are very Devout and Charitable very zealous for their Religion which they labour to propagate all over the World and when they love or esteem a Christian they pray him to turn Turk They are Loyal to their Prince whom they highly Reverence and blindly Obey Turks are not seen to betray their Prince and turn to the side of the Christians They never Quarrel nor carry Swords in the City Duels not known amongst the Turks No Quarrels amongst them The Turks never play for Money no not the Souldiers but only Cangiars They seldom fight together and they never knew what Duels were which proceeds chiefly from the wise Policy of Mahomet who kept from them two great causes of Quarrels Wine and Gaming for the good Turks drink not a drop of Wine and those who drink are not esteemed no more than they who eat Opium or the Coculus Indicus which makes them Drunk As for Gaming though they play at several Plays yet it is always for nothing so that they never Fight because if any Quarrel happen amongst them the first that comes by makes them Friends or otherwise he that complains citing his Companion in presence witnesses to appear before a Judg he does not refuse to go otherwise he would condemn himself and there every one having alledged his Reasons he who hath done the wrong is Condemned and many times Bastonadoed if he deserve it They are very Temperate and commit no Excess Temperance of the Turks neither in quantity nor quality of Victuals Treating Houses would be very insignificant amongst them and it may be said that they Eat to Live and Live not to Eat This I think is most part of the good that can be said of them Now for their Vices they are Proud Pride of the Turks esteeming themselves above all other Nations they think themselves the Valiantest Men upon Earth and that the World was only made for them And indeed they despise all other Nations in general and especially those who are not of their Religion as the Christians and Jews and they commonly call Christians Dogs Nay Turks Superstitious there are some Turks so Superstitious that if when they come out of their Houses in the Morning the first Person they meet be a Christian or Jew they return quickly home again saying Aouz billah min el scheitan el redgim that is to say God preserve us from the Devil The Rable think they do a brave action when they flout at and jear a Christian especially if he be a Frank but that 's because our fashion of Apparel differing very much from theirs they are much offended thereat and call us Apes that have no Tails But at Constantinople they are not very insolent to the Franks either because of the great Commerce they have with them or rather because they might easily be got Punished if they did any hurt however they spare not now and then a blow with a Cudgel by the by especially if it be a Turk in drink For my own part I never met with any Trouble only being one day with some other French in Constantinople without a Janizary the Children threw some Cores of Apples at us but some Tradesmen coming out of their Shops ran after them and dispersed them And indeed when upon
same day about Noon arrived at Smyrna CHAP. LX. Of the City of Smyrna SMyrna a noted Town of Jonia was anciently founded by Tantalus Smyrna Tantalus and since called Smyrna from the name of one of the Amazones that invaded Asia and took that Town long after that it was ruined by an Earthquake and Rebuilt by Marc Antony nearer to the Sea because of the commodiousness of the Harbour It braggs of being the native place of the Poet Homer Homers Country and the Turks at present call it Ismyr This is a large Town and well inhabited both by Turks and Christians but it is a kind of a melancholick place and not at all Strong it is commanded by a Castle of somewhat difficult access this Castle is very ruinous and but meanly guarded you have a large Cistern in it cut all out of a Rock having five Mouths and several Chanels Below the Castle as you go to Santa Veneranda which is a Church of the Greeks there is a great Amphitheatre The place where St. Polycarp suffered Martyrdom where St. Polycarp the Disciple of St. John and Bishop of Smyrna suffered Martyrdom It is very high and in the upper part thereof there are still five niches where the Seats of the Magistrates were not far from thence there are several Ruines of St. John's Cathedral Church which has been very large and full of Chappels In one of these Chappels there is a Tomb which the Greeks believe to be the Sepulchre of St. Polycarp But others with more Reason take it to be the Monument of some Turk There is also another Castle below by the Marine or Sea-side A Castle in Smyrna where are the Arms of the Church of Rome which is well Inhabited and over the Gate of it are the Arms of the Church of Rome perhaps it hath been built by the Genoese who were masters of Smyrna and of all that Coast This Castle shuts the Port which is but little and no Forreign Ships come into it but ride at Anchor abroad in the Road which is spacious and safe It is difficult to get out of Since I left Smyrna they have built a Castle at the mouth of that Road to hinder whom they please from coming in or going out because they were not secure from the Venetians after the Battel of the Dardanelles there being nothing that could hinder them from entering into the Road from whence they might with ease have battered the Town and taken it in a short time Upon the side of this Road towards the Town stands the Custome-house and then the Houses of the Consuls and Merchants Franks who have for the most part a back-door towards the Sea. In this town there is a Cady who administers Justice many Turks live there as also Christians of all Countries Greeks Armenians and Latins The Greeks have an Arch-Bishop and two Churches there in one of which called Santa Veneranda the Arch-Bishop Officiates and the other which is called St. George belongs to the Monks The Armenians have two Churches there also and the Latins have the Capucins who Officiate in their Church which is overagainst the French Consuls House The territory of Smyrna the Jesuits have also a lovely House with a Church in it The Country about Smyrna is a plain very fertile in many things especially in Olive-Trees and full of Gardens which render the Town very pleasant to live in all things are there in abundance and such excellent Wine that next to Canary I never drank better than Smyrna Wine when it is right The Franks make it in their Houses buying the Grapes by Basket-fulls in the Town Partridges there are not worth above three or four Aspres a Couple and when they cost five Aspres it is dear and yet they are very good In fine all things are good and cheap at Smyrna but it is a Town much subject to Earthquakes Smyrna much subject to Earthquakes and hath been several times ruined by them but still rebuilt because of the convenience of its Scituation no year passes without them and I was told that some Years they felt very great Earthquakes for the space of fourty Days together which began a fresh every half hour and were felt even by the Ships in the Road being tossed by the Waters which were moved by the shaking of the Ground in the bottom It would be very hot being in this Town in the Summer-time were it not for the Wind Low Wind. which they call the low Wind or North Breeze it is a certain Wind that blows from the North regularly every day and much qualifies the Air. There is a great trade of Commodities from all parts of Asia and Christendom in this Town While I was there I had a great desire to see Ephesus which was heretofore one of the seven Churches as well as Smyrna to which St. John directed his Revelations where he Died and wherein still remain to be seen the ruines of the Temple of Diana one of the seven Wonders of the World and to the Ornament and Embellishment whereof all the Kings of Asia contributed so long which was burn'd by Erostratus who thereby coveted to Immortalize his Memory There are many other things worth the seeing at Ephesus which made me willing to have undertaken a progress of three or four days for Ephesus is no more than fourty Miles from Smyrna But Monsieur Du puy the French Consul who shewed me in that Country all kinds of civility would needs take me off on 't because of Robbers that were upon the Roads who were a remnant of those that were routed at the Dardanelles and who gave no Quarter especially to Christians but finding at length that I was earnest upon it he took the pains of chusing two Janizaries to wait upon me of whom one who himself had been a Robber many years promised to bring me safe back again as pretending acquaintance of these Robbers I had already hired Horses and prepared to be gone next Morning but a Feaver that took me in the Evening quite broke off the Journey for being recovered seven or eight days after they made me look upon that slight Distemper as a warning and at length I yielded to the perswasions of those who had the goodness to divert me from that Journey as thinking it Dangerous CHAP. LXI Of the Town of Chio. THough I had resolved to continue my Travels through Asia yet I had heard so much of the Wonders of Chio that I could not but see it being then so near therefore I hired a Boat to carry me thither and embarked on Wednesday morning the Eleventh of October A little after we had very foul weather which made me blame my curiosity oftner than once and it behoved us to lye in the Boat near the shore not without danger of being taken by the Brigantines for there are always some in the Archipelago and when they take Franks they sell them at Rhodes to Barbary men
Orange-Water two Baskets full of Pomegranates two of Limons two of Water-Melons two of Mezingianes or Violet-Naveurs one of Grapes one of Grass half a dozen of Pidgeons a dozen of Pullets and three Sheep Next day his Kiaya or Lieutenant had likewise the usual Present brought to him which was but one half of the abovementioned Provisions They expected two Bashas more within a short time and these Bashas caused People to be often Bastonadoed as they went along the Streets when they were out of Humour but for all that no sooner were they Lodged but the whole Trouble was over CHAP. LXV Of the Isle of Patino HAving said enough of Chio Patino I shall here make a little digression from my Travels and relate what I have learned of some Islles of the Archipelago where I have not been as well by what has been told me as by a memoire that hath come to my hands And in the first place I shall speak of the Isle of Pathmos which though small is nevertheless Illustrious Pathmos as being the place to which St. John the Evangelist was Banished and where he wrote the Revelation This Isle called anciently Pathmos and at present Patino and Palmosa is eighteen miles in circuit Palmosa and has in it but one well Built little Town with a Castle in the middle of it called the Monastery of St. John where two hundred Greek Monks live who carefully keep in their Church a Body shut up in a case which they say is the Body of St. John what ever they think who doubt whether he be as yet Dead or not There are about three thousand Souls in this Isle who have much ado to live Three thousand Souls in Pathmos The Grott where the Apocalypse was written called Theoskeposti the Land being very dry and all Rockie In it is the Grotto where St. John wrote the Apocalypse which Grotto by the Greeks is called Theoskeposti that is to say in vulgar Greek covered by God. The Inhabitants of this place relate a pretty ridiculous story of St. John and that is that the Devil went to Tempt St. John in that Grotto which is but half a mile from the Sea and as far from the Town bidding him go and swim and that St. John made answer to the Devil do thou first throw thy self into the Sea and I 'll follow thee which the Devil did and was immediately changed into a Stone The figure of a Devil at Pathmos of the same Figure that he had when he threw himself into the Sea And that Stone is to be seen to this day being but one step from the Land. No Turk lives in this Island they are Christians that bear rule there yet they pay Tribute to the Grand Signior And the Corsars put into this Island to careen and take fresh Water CHAP. LXVI Of the Isle of Nixia THE Isle of Nixia heretofore called Naxus is sixscore miles in circuit Nixia In latter times before it was possessed by the Turks it carried the title of a Dutchy The Families of Sanudi and Somarigi Venetians in Nixia and at present it has among its Inhabitants several noble Families descended of the said Dukes who were the Sanudi Somarigi Venetians and others The Fields of this Isle are most fruitful in all things and chiefly a certain Valley called Darmilla wherein are eighteen Villages The Inhabitants of this Isle make plenty of Wine which they send to Alexandria Smyrna and Chio as likewise very good Cheese for they have many Cows Sheep and Goats Not far from the Town near the Sea are the Salt-pits and a Pond which the Town letts out to farme they Fish in it but two Months in the Year to wit August and September There are great quantities of Eels taken also in a Valley called Plichi that is full of Marshes which are always supplied with Water from greaâ— Springs that run into it There are very thick Woods also in it with Rocks and solitary Dens where there are a great many tall Stags Catching of Partridges with an Ass and there the Gentlemen go a Hunting with the Cady who governs the Island the Peasants catch Partridges with an Ass in this manner Late in the Evening the Peasant goes and joggs the Partridges to know where they Sleep then he pitches a Net where he thinks convenient and afterwards puts himself under the belly of his Ass which is trained to the sport and thus both stalking along together the Peasant with a switch drives the Partridges into the Net where they are caught and this sport is the better because Partridges are very Plentiful there There are besides other Valleys with Water-springs in them that turn Mills for the use of the People There are several Monasteries in this Island one of which ought to be very Ancient for it is built in form of a Tower upon a Hill. There is another called Fanaromeni Fanaromeni dedicated to the Virgin because a Picture of the Virgin was found in that Place which is held in great Veneration and called Faneromeni it is not long since that Monastery was built and contains threescore and ten Rooms or Chambers besides those that are under Ground the Church is small but well built and beautified It is served by ten Monks all Countrey Clowns who have no Learning and not only there but over all the Isles of the Archipelago they are so ignorant that it may be said of them Ignoto Deo and it is impossible but that Vice must reign where People are so ignorant of the commands of God and where there is so much Idleness and Drunkenness Threscore miles from the Town there is a Tower and another Church also dedicated to the Virgin named Tagia in that place there is a Spring of as good Water as can be desired and a Monk and some Shepherds live there the people of the Island often go thither out of Devotion and not without much Pain because of the troublesome Hills and Valleys that are in the way About six miles from thence near the Sea overagainst the Isle of Nicaria there is to be seen upon a very steep and rugged Mountain The Castle of Apollo some ruines of the Castle of Apollo and it is a wonder how they could carry up Stones to Build it The wall is eight hand breadth thick it is not carried on to the Sea on the East-side because there is no going up to it on that side but by a very dangerous place but on the South East and South-side it is built of Stone and Bitumen down to the Sea. In that Castle there are several Houses and Cisterns for Water In the neighbourhood of it are four little Towns very well Inhabited In these Quarters there are also many Goat-heards that keep Goats and the Hills are full of an Herb which Mathiolus calls Ledum The Ledum of Mathiolus Kissaros an Herb. Laudanum a Gum. Darmilla Strongyle Palace of Bacchus and
Heretofore there was a Latin Bishop there but he having gone out of the Island the Albanians usurped all there being no Inventory nor other Writing to be found There is nothing remarkable in it but the afore-mentioned Baths though there be a Castle there and a pretty big Village called Mesi Mesi This Island is almost all a Plain has few Trees and yet it is fruitful and abundant in all things The Inhabitants are honest people and trade in Stuffs Thread and other Commodities raising thereby Money to pay their Tribute Turkish Money passes not there but only the Coyn of Venice so as in several other such Isles except Naxia Andro and Seyra where Turkish Money goes The Women of Thermia are vertuous handsome and wear a neat dress The People live pretty well there and a Cady commands with four Procurators chosen among the Citizens of the Town Ajora is a little Isle eighteen miles about it depends on the Isle of Scyra Ajora whose Inhabitants keep some Shepherds there to look after their Sheep There are four Churches in it where Divine-Service is performed but once a year to wit at Easter and then the Shepherds Communicate It is not at all cultivated because the Corsairs carry off the Oxen and sometimes the Sheep also The Isle of Scyra which in the vulgar Greek signifies Signora or Mistress Scyra is so called because by its height it commands all the other Isles being almost in the middle of them It is thirty six miles in circuit a dry Soyl bears few Trees and nevertheless abounds in all things having plenty of Provisions Flesh Fish and Venison The Water they use is brought from a Spring a little wide of the Town and is very good They have no Villages of any consequence only some scattering Houses in the Countrey The Inhabitans of this Isle are much given to devotion and chiefly the Women who are very silly There is much hatred and envy always among them which arises from the oppression they daily suffer from the Turks and their common poverty They are almost all Latins and have several Churches the Cathedral standing on the top of the Town dedicated to St. George and served by several Priests who have a Latin Bishop for their Superiour that lives on his Revenue and Tithes But there are some of these Churches in so bad order that they look more like Ware-houses than Churches The Capucins in spight of the Hereticks and Schismaticks bring many into the Church by their constant Preaching They Catechise there and instruct the young Children who have a very quick wit and are apt to learn. They often hear Confessions and their Church which is dedicated to St. John was built at the charge of the Publick There is another Church also dedicated to the Virgin and served by the Religious of the Order of St. Dominick Six miles from the Town there is a little Garden where there are some stocks of Orange-Trees and some Springs with a Chapel dedicated to the Virgin and some Hermite commonly lives there They have no places of Curiosity nor Walks CHAP. LXX Of the Isles of Samos and Nicaria AFter I had long waited for a Passage to Aegyt an occcasion at length offered of a great Saique bound for Rossetto Saiques These Saiques are like great Barks having a round hulk and a very big and high Main-mast They carry great Cargoes of Goods but they sail not fast unless they be before the Wind or rather they sail no otherwise for they cannot go upon a Wind. The Greeks make use of no other Vessels for trading both in the White and Black Seas and that 's the reason there are so many of them though the Christian Corsairs pick up several of them now and then I spake to the Master of this Saique who was a Janizary and he promised to give me notice when the weather was fair to set out but that I might be the more at ease I hired the Pursers Cabin in the top of the Poop which was so little that when my Man and I turn'd in there was not half a foot of room to spare I then bestir'd my self speedily to make my provisions not forgetting a Capot for my self and another for my Man. A Capot is a certain Field-garment Capot lined through with the same stuff it is made of and shaped like a Wastcoat reaching down to the knee there are sleeves for the arms and a hood fastened to it for the head All the Sea-men have Capots and it seems to me to be so necessary an Implement not only for Sea-men but for all that travel by Sea that I cannot see how in a long Voyage one can be without it In case of necessity it will serve for a Quilt and Coverlet With a Capot you may sit down and lye where you please and without it you would pitch all your cloaths rain or blow you may walk abroad in the air with your Capot and within a Capot you need neither fear wet nor cold I found so much good in this Garment and have received so many Services from it that I thought I could not but here say something in praise of it Being then provided with all things necessary for a pretty long Voyage though they gave me hopes that in eight or ten days time I should be in Aegypt I went on board on Wednesday the Fifteenth of November Departure from Chio. about three a clock in the Afternoon and an hour after we set out of the Port of Chio with a North-wind We made not much way that day Thursday morning the sixteenth of November the wind ceased leaving us before the Isle of Samos Samos which is threescore miles from Chio. This is a very barren Island by what I could perceive but is famous for having been the Native Countrey of Pythagoras Pythagoras Polycrates Sibylla of Samos Nicaria Icaria that great Philosopher of Polycrates so much renowned for his good fortune and of a Sibyl It is fourscore miles in circuit Pretty near and over against Samos is the Isle of Nicaria called in ancient times Icaria from Icarus the Son of Doedalus It is in figure long the Land of it very dry and all high Rocks wherein are the Houses of the Inhabitants who may make in all three thousand Souls very poor and ill clad They are much addicted to Swimming and fishing up Sponges from the bottom of the Sea or the Goods of Ships that have been cast away and Batchelours are not married in this Island unless they can dive at least eight fathom deep into the water and of this they must give proof So that when a Papas or any other of the richest men of the Island would marry his Daughter To whom the Maids are married at Nicaria he pitches upon a day whereon he promises his Daughter to the best Swimmer and the day being come the young Men strip themselves stark naked before all the People the Maid
herself being present and throw themselves into the water where he that stays longest under obtains the Maid in Marriage These are a sort of People that seem to be Fish rather than Men. They pay the Grand Signior their Tribute in Sponges and from them all Turkie is furnished This Isle hath no Haven for great Vessels but only for small Barks wherein they go to Chio and sell Honey Wax White-wine as clear as water which comes away by Urine as soon at it is drank and such like Commodities Their Vineyards are here and there among the Rocks But the World is turned topsie-turvie in this Island for the Women are the Mistresses there So soon as the Husband is arrived from any place the Wife goes to the Sea-side and takes the Oars and other implements and carries them home after which the Husband disposes of nothing without her leave In the time of the Emperours of Constantinople Persons of Quality that deserved Banishment were sent to this Island the Inhabitants whereof are well-shaped and strong But to return to Sea again we did what lay in our power to pass that Island and take Harbour at Stanchio but a South-east wind blowing soon after hindred us from that and though we beat and tack'd to and agen till the evening we gained no ground so that we resolved to turn back again and did so an hour before night finding that the South-east wind began to blow fresher and fresher In the Night-time we had much Lightning However while I was attentively considering Samos I saw a light on shore A Light which no body kindles which seem'd to me to be a Candle and having ask'd an honest Roman Catholick of Chio with whom I had made friendship what it was He made me answer That that Light was seen every night in the same place that having past that way ten or twelve times in the night-time he had always seen it that nevertheless there was neither House nor Tree there that many had gone oftentimes in search of it but could never find it seeing it very well at a distance but losing sight of it assoon as they came near and that about the place where the Light is seen there is an ancient Christian Church all ruinous which makes people think that there is some Mystery in it I thought the man had jeer'd me when he told me all these things and therefore I went to the Captain 's Cabin where having asked him the same question though he was a Turk he told me the same things the honest Chiot did who was Patron of the Saique and a Greek which made me more attentively consider that Light I ey'd it for the space of an hour and it seemed to me to be about two hundred paces from the Sea-side on that part of the Island which looks Westward opposite to the Isle of Nacaria or Nicaria I saw it rise and fall like a Candle and I remember that the Monks of Niamoni of the Isle of Chio told me just such another thing concerning the Foundation of their Church Having well considered that Light I went to sleep about eleven of the clock and the wind blew fresher about midnight with so thick a darkness that one could not see six steps on head and in the mean time we were in a dangerous place betwixt Samos and Nicaria so that we had cause to fear the Saique might run foul of one of these two places There fell afterward a great deal of rain but such strong gusts of wind with it as gave the Sea-men enough to do and besides that we had great claps of Thunder which doubling horribly betwixt these Islands made with the beating of the waves a fearful noise In the mean time the Ship made much water which created no small trouble to the Sea-men who had already their hands full on 't Another danger threatned us besides for they had left the Caique in the Sea towed at the Saiques stern which being forced by the violence of the wind knock'd its head so hard against the Saique that it might have started a plank and sunk her down to rights many Vessels being lost so even in the Port nevertheless their was no hoisting of it up though it had strucken so often against the Saique that all the Head of it was broken and the Saique was so slippery that there was no holding on her so that at several times three Men fell into the Sea but Ropes being quickly thrown out to them they were drawn up again At length came day but with it so thick a Fog that it was more than three Hours after before we could see Land. We afterward discovered Chio about ten a Clock in the Morning and put into Harbour the same day being Friday the seventeenth of November a little after Noon Our Captain perceiving the Weather to be contrary to us Scala Nuova or Couschadasi proposed to go and Anchor in the Port of Scala Nuova which the Turks call Couschadasi and I earnestly desired it because then I might have gone to Ephesus which is but half a days Journey from it but some Chiots told him that it was dangerous entring into the Port of Scala Nuova at that time But indeed I think it was that they had rather wait for fair Weather at home in their own Town than in another place So soon as I was come to Chio I failed not to speak to our Vice-Consul of the Light I had seen in the Isle of Samos and he told me all the same that the rest did and that he himself with some others had gone in search thereof but that as they drew nigh they always lost sight of it CHAP. LXXI Of Stanchio and Bodrou WE waited with great Impatience for fair Weather at Chio nevertheless the South-East Wind continued blowing till Tuesday the Twenty eighth of November when with day a North-Wind arose we let not slip the occasion for being got on Board we put out the same day about Four a Clock in the Afternoon and Wednesday the Twenty ninth of November past by Samos about Midnight In the Morning the Wind abated a little and nevertheless about One of the Clock we arrived at Stanchio Stanchio or Isola Longa. otherwise called Isola Longa Fourscore and ten Miles from Samos and came to an Anchor to take in Fresh-Water We who were Christians went not a Shoar because there were Eight hundred Spahis lately arrived to defend that Island against the Venetians and seeing these Blades play'd the Devil and all putting their Horses into the Churches of the Greeks they would certainly have abused us being then extreamly Exasperated against all Franks This Island called heretofore Coos Coos Lango and named at present by the Turks Stanchio and by the Franks Lango or Isola Longa is Seventy Miles in Circuit and is very Fruitful especially in good Wine the Country seems to be pleasant enough and upon the Port by the Sea-side there is a Castle that
was and he made answer Eat it it is good for you it is Opium Then I told him that he had Poysoned me and straining a little I Vomited again Since I was not the only sick person aboard and that all had trouble enough the Wind blowing very hard and Raining whole Nights we several times weighed Anchor and did what we could to get to Bodrou but all in vain for the South-east Wind still hindred us At length on Saturday the ninth of December the Wind changed and after Noon we had a breeze from North but we did not offer to set Sail before next day that we might see if it was like to continue Next day being Sunday the tenth of December it blowing fresher from North we set Sail about Eleven a Clock in the Forenoon but that Wind lasted not long for about Two in the Afternoon it began to calm and at Night chopt about to the South but it did not blow hard and therefore we still kept under Sail. About Ten a Clock at Night we run a Risque which we had not foreseen For we being above thirty Saiques in company and the Night very dark about ten of the Clock a Saique ran foul of us and entangled his Fore-mast with our Main-mast the Bounce made so great a noise that we all thought our selves lost and every one running out to see what the matter was some of our Men took a good Rope and lashed the Fore-mast of that Saique to ours whilst four or five went down with a Lanthorn to the Pomp to see if our Saique had sprung a Leak or suffered damage in the Hold the rest staying above-decks to take heed that the Sea-men of the other Saique did not cast loose the Rope and get clear of us but the poor Creatures who were all Greeks were so stunned at the fault they had committed that not one of them appeared At first when this happened our Captain was so enraged that he was about to Leap into the other Saique with Sword in Hand and kill all he met but being quickly better advised he and all the rest resolved that if our Saique was in danger of Sinking to Leap into theirs and throwing them all into the Sea to make themselves Masters of her therefore it was that they held her Lashed to ours At length God be praised we found that our Saique had received no damage but only a little of her Side broken Had it blown a little fresher or had they struck but a hands breadth lower our Saique had gone to the bottom We let them go then without doing them any hurt though there were some on board of us who gave advice to fire a Broad-side into her and sink her In the mean time the same South-Wind still continuing we kept beating to and again till Monday the elventh of December when two Hours before Night we manned our Boat to tow us into a narrow passage which is betwixt the Isle of Sanbiki by the Turks called Sunbiki and another inhabited Island we came to an Anchor there about Sun-setting This is a very narrow place and pretty secure from Winds when you are passed the streight there is a Village upon the Sea-side where none but Greeks live who Trade up and down in Sanbikis by the Turks called Sunbikis Sunbikis which were first invented and made in this Island These Vessels are a kind of Galiotts which we shall Treat of in another place We stayed there all that Night and next day being Tuesday the twelfth of December Wednesday the thirteenth of December at break of day a gentle Gale blowing still from the South our Caique towed us out of the Streight and then we spread Sail. Betwixt Nine and Ten a Clock the Wind turned about to North-north-West with which we made so good way that about Three a Clock in the Afternoon we arrived at Rhodes an hundred Miles from Stanchio We lay thirteen days in the Harbour of Rhodes during which time I considered that place as much as I could not daring however to eye any thing too attentively for so soon as I stopt the Turks observed me and a Chiot Gentleman with whom I was jogged me at the same time to divert me from my Curiosity which might prove hurtful especially at that time when in all the Isles of Turkie they apprehended a descent from the Venetians CHAP. LXXIII Of Isle and City of Rhodes THE Isle of Rhodes hath Lycia to the North the Sea betwixt them being about twenty Miles broad the Isle of Cyprus to the East Candie to the West and Aegypt to the South it is an hundred Miles in Circuit lying in so temperate a Climate that as they say there is no day but the Sun shines upon it however I have been some days there when no Sun appeared at least at the Town This is a very fruitful Island and hath several Villages well Inhabited besides a small City which is very strong The Island hath had several Masters for the Saracenes took it from the Gresks under the Conduct of Mahuvias then it returned to the Christians and afterwards to the Saracenes from whom it was taken on the day of the Assumption of our Lady in the Year 1309. by the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem who Fortified it The History of the Religion of Malta Treats at large of the City of Rhodes the Foundation of it and how the Hospitallers or Knights of St. John became Masters of the same The Siege of Rhodes by the Califf of Aegypt The Siege of Rhodes by Mahomet II. The Califf of Aegypt Besieged it in the Year 1444. and after some time raised the Siege for they did him a great deal of Mischief which made him several times desire their Friendship Afterwards Mahomet the Second laid Siege to it the twelfth of May 1480. Monsieur d' Ambusse a French-man being then great Master He raised the Siege three Months after and only lost his time for his pains At length Solyman the Second being Emperour and not enduring that after the Conquest of Aegypt a small place in the heart of his Dominions held by a handful of Men should give him so much trouble made Application to them by all the ways of Mildness desiring no more of them but the least acknowledgment But finding that by no means they would submit he resolved to take the place by force and having made great preparations went with his Army in Person to that Island resolving to be present at an Expedition wherein he took so great a concern The Siege of Rhodes by Solyman II. On St. John's day 1522. the Van of the Turkish Fleet appeared before Rhodes At that time there were but Five thousand fighting Men in Rhodes of whom Six hundred wore the Habit but they were all Men of Courage Villiers Great Master under the Command of a valiant Master who was Philip de Villiers l'Isle Adam a French-man The Turks Fleet consisted of about Four
was slain by the Knight Deodat de Gozon Deodat de Gozon as may be seen in the History of the Knights of St. John the Head of the Dragon was heretofore upon that Gate but some Years since the Turks removed it to the Water-gate On this side it was also that the Traytor Andrea d'Amaral shot secretly from the House of the Great Master that looks that way a Letter fastned to an Arrow into the Camp of the Turks wherein he gave the Turks notice that they could not take the Town but on that side by filling up the Ditches with the Earth of a Hill that was close by which they did and so took Rbodes from the same place the Traytor continued to acquaint the Grand Signior with the resolutions of the Council Near to this Gate within the Town are the Pits where the Knights put their Corn such as they have at present in Malta for the same use As you enter the Town by the Water-gate you go first through a little Gate over which are two Escutcheons of two Crosses the one plain and the other Anchred then to the Left hand you enter by a great Gate over which is the Dragons Head which is much Thicker Broader A Dragons head at Rhodes and Longer than a Horses Head the Jaws of it are slit up to the Ears with very great Teeth on each side it is flat above hath Eyes somewhat bigger than those of a Horse the hole of the Nostril full round and the Skin of a greyish White Colour perhaps because of the Dust that sticks to it and appears to be very hard There are three Escutcheons over that Gate also as there are many others on several places of the Walls but one dares not stop to look at them One of these Escutcheons bears a plain Cross and the other a Cross Anchred and betwixt these two there is a third bearing the Arms of France On the very top of this Gate there are three Statues in their Niches with three Lines written underneath them whereof I could only read the first Word which is D. Petrus and under that Inscription are the three above-mentioned Escutcheons This Gate is betwixt two great Towers well planted with Faulcons The Streets of the Town are pretty broad all Paved with little Stones and for the most part covered with Pent-houses which the Turks have made these Pent-houses jet out so far into the Street that they almost touch one another in the middle of it There are several fair Buildings in it but all built in time of the Knights St. John's Church is still to be seen there but it is at present a Mosque There is a little Nich over the great Gate of it that hath a round cover and upon that cover the Figures of our Saviour the Blessed Virgin and St. John holding the Cross are cut in bas relief The Gate is of Wood pretty well carv'd and on the left hand as you come out of the Church into which no Christian is now suffered to enter is the street of the Knights where all of them I believe lodged for there are several Coats of Arms upon the houses of that street out of which there is still a gate to go into St. John's This is a long streight street and mounts upwards it is paved with small Stones and in the middle of the street there is a line of white Marble a foot broad which reaches from one end to the other at the upper end of it is the Palace of the great Master but no body now lives in it None but Turks and Jews live in the City of Rhodes for Christians are not suffered to be there though they keep Shops in the Town but at night they must retire to the Villages in the Countrey about being only allowed to come to Town in the day-time CHAP. LXXIV Of the Voyage from Rhodes to Alexandria Departure from Rhodes WE stay'd at Rhodes till Christmas having all the while very bad weather great Rains and much Thunder At length on Monday Christmas-day the five and twentieth of December the wind turned North-west but because it was still close and cloudy weather our Captain would not put out that day though a great many Saiques set sail On St. Stephen's-day being Tuesday the six and twentieth of December it clearing a little up and the North-west-wind continuing we set out from Rhodes after twelve a clock making sail only with our Fore-sail that we might not leave the Island before night for fear of Corsairs The Countrey of Chares After Sun-set we spread our Main-sail and in a short time left Lindo the Countrey of Chares who made the Colossus of Rhodes a stern of us it is a little Rock at a point of the Isle of Rhodes threescore miles from the Town Scarpanto There is a small Town on it with a very good Fort. When it was two or three hours in the night we came over against the Isle of Scarpanto fifty miles from Lindo Gulf of Satalia which we left to the star-board then we entered into the Gulf of Satalia where for two or three hours time we had a rowling Sea because the Current of that Gulf makes an Eddy with the Currents of the Gulf of Venice and other places to the Westward which is the cause that the Sea is a little rough there This Passage was heretofore so dangerous that many Vessels were cast away in it but the Sea-men say that St. Helena returning from Jerusalem threw one of the Nails of our Saviour's Cross into it and that since the danger has been less After that about mid-night it began to blow so fresh from North-north-west that we reckoned our running to be ten miles an hour though we carried only our Main-sail that we might not leave a Callion or Turkish Ship that was our Consort and was a great way a stern of us She came with us from Chio and was also bound for Alexandria That wind lasted all Wednesday the seven and twentieth of December St. John the Evangelist's-day and at night it slackened a little and then changed to the North-east but so easie a gale that we got a head but little or nothing during the whole night and all next day which was St. Innocent's-day the twenty eighth of December That day towards the evening the wind blew a little fresher but shortly after was calmed by a shower of Rain About midnight it blew again so hard that Friday the nine and twentieth of December by break of day we made the Land of Aegypt Boukery and the wind chopping about to West-north-west we stood away towards Boukery five hundred miles distant from Rhodes but the wind cast us so far to the lee-ward that shortly after we found ourselves below Alexandria where we endeavoured to put in Arrival near to Alexandria beating to and again all day long but in the evening we were fain to come to an anchor five or six miles
short of the Town We stay'd still there all Sunday the one and twentieth of December and then in the night-time the wind turning North blew so hard that our Vessel was very much tossed Monday the first day of the Year 1657. the wind abating a little about eleven a clock we weighed standing in towards the Harbour of the Galleys where half an hour after we came to an anchor There we were informed that a great Gallion was cast away in the Port of Alexandria which belonged to two Turkish Merchants and had a great deal of Goods on board to wit Flax Coffee and Sugar to the value of a hundred and fifty Thousand Piastres Not but that the Port is good enough but they said that there was negligence in the case and that the Cables were old and not look'd to for eleven months that the Gallion was in the Port so that they were rotten in the water This Gallion rode with four Anchors abroad yet one night a little before day all the Cables broke much at the same time which the company that were on board perceiving fired two Guns for assistance but no help being given them about break of day she split upon a Rock all the men that were on board were saved except a Turkish Merchant who would not be saved saying that he would not leave his Goods that were in the Gallion and indeed he perished with the Ship which was so broken to pieces that in an hours time there was no more to be seen of her Nevertheless help might have been given them seeing notwithstanding the storm Caiques went and came and all that was to be done was but to carry them a Cable or two All the Goods that were saved of a Cargoe worth an hundred and fifty Thousand Piastres was no more but a little Flax which they took up floating upon the water and which I afterwards saw spread abroad to dry She was the fairest Gallion that ever the Turks built exceeding even the Sultana taken some years since by the Knights of Malta which was so high that the Main-masts heads of the Galleys of Malta did not reach up to her side I was told that this was another-guess Gallion and that her stern was higher than the Main-top-mast head of our Saique which nevertheless was one of the largest of the kind She was built at Constantinople and cost eight and thirty Thousand Piastres her burthen was fifteen hundred Tun but she was now grown old she had on board forty Guns and would carry three thousand Men nay the first Voyage she made from Constantinople she had two thousand and one hundred Persons on board Nevertheless the Sea at this time was so enraged that not satisfied with this great booty it carried its fury farther and cast away a Saique in the mouth of the Nile in which two and forty Men were drowned but thanks be to God we were at Rhodes during that Tempest The End of the First Book TRAVELS INTO THE LEVANT PART I. BOOK II. CHAP. I. Of Alexandria IN the former Book I gave an Account of our arrival at Alexandria after a tedious Voyage which is commonly performed from Chio in seven or eight days time And now being in Alexandria I stay'd some days for fair weather that I might go with the Saique to Rossetto but perceiving that the wind changed not and that probably it might be a months time before the Saique could get to Rossetto I brought my things a-shore and resolved to go thither by Land. Before my departure I saw all that is worth the seeing in Alexandria This Town called by the Turks Skenderia Alexandria or Skenderia heretofore so lovely rich and famous a place is at present so ruined that it is no more the same there is nothing to be seen in it but ruined Houses cast one upon another and the heaps of Rubbish and Stones which are on all hands are higher than the Houses The French are lodged there in a Fondick which is a great House like a Han. There are other Fondicks also for the English Dutch Venetians and others and they pay no House-rent on the contrary the Consuls receive Money from the Grand Signior yearly to keep them in necessary repair These Fondicks are every evening shut up and the Keys of them carried to the Aga of the Castle who takes care to send them back every next morning They are also shut and so is the Water-gate every Friday during the Noon-Prayer as the Castle-gate is at Caire and also in all places of the Turkish Empire where there are Franks because they say they have a Prophesie which threatens that the Franks are to become Masters of them on a Friday during the Noon-Prayer Hardly any thing of the ancient Alexandria remains standing but the Walls and some Buildings toward the Fondick of the French which are almost ruined for the Buildings that are now towards the shore are not ancient but have been built by the Turks as may be easily seen by the Fabrick being all low ill-contriv'd Houses This Town hath three Ports the first of which called the Old Harbour is pretty large but few Vessels put into it because the entry is difficult there are two Castles to defend it one on each side and both well kept The other two Ports are higher up and separated one from another by a little Island heretofore farther off from the main Land than it is at present and anciently called the Pharos It is at present joyned to the main Land by a Stone-bridge of some Arches under which the water passes This Isle runs out a great way in Meo in the middle of it there is a large square Tower Farillon where the Grand Signior's Powder is kept At the end of the same Isle there is a good Castle called Farillon that stands in the same place where the heretofore so renowned Pharos stood which was reckoned One of the Seven Wonders of the World this which is now in the place of it is neat enough and well provided with Artillery and a Garison of three hundred Soldiers commanded by a Muteferaca but it hath no other water than that of the Nile which is brought into it from without upon Camels The first of the two Ports divided by the Pharos is the Harbour of the Galleys and the other is the Great Port or New Harbour the mouth whereof is on the one side defended by the Farillon and on the other side by another little Castle at its entry which is not so good as the Farillon however it is kept by several Soldiers and these two Castles easily succour one another Both these Ports are very dangerous because of the Stones and Rocks that are in them and there is need of a good Pilot to bring Vessels in The Great Port lyes much open to the North-east and North winds The Harbour of the Galleys is the safer of the two but it hath no great depth of water and indeed as
with the Knife The Master comes to them now and then with a Pattern and looking upon it tells them what they are to do as if he were reading in a Book nay faster too than he could read saying So many points of such a colour and so many of such another and the like and they are as quick at their work as he is in directing them CHAP. XI Of the Ovens that hatch Chickens ALL that I have related hitherto are such things as may be daily seen and whoever Travels into that Countrey may see them at his leisure when he thinks fit But there are also several other curious things that are casual and temporary and others again which yearly happen but at such a time and season I shall relate what I have seen of both according to the order of time they happen in and I saw them The first of these extraordinary things I saw at Caire was the artificial way of hatching Chickens one would think it a Fable at first to say that Chickens are hatch'd without Hens sitting upon the Eggs and a greater to say that they are sold by the Bushel Nevertheless both are true and for that effect they put their Eggs in Ovens which they heat with so temperate a warmth The manner of the Ovens for hatching of Chickens which imitates so well the natural heat that Chickens are formed and hatched in them These Ovens are in a low place and in a manner under ground they are made of Earth round within the Hearth or Floor of them being covered all over with Tow or Flocks to put the Eggs upon There are in all twelve of these Ovens six on each side in two ranks or stories there being two stories on each side and three Ovens in each storie These two sides are separated by a Street or Way through which they who work in them who are all Cophtes and those that come to see them pass They begin to heat their Ovens about the middle of February How the Ovens are heated and continue to do so for almost four months space They heat them with a very temperate heat only of the hot ashes of Oxen and Camels-dung or the like which they put at the mouth of each Oven and daily change it putting fresh hot dung into the same place This they do for the space of ten days and then lay the Eggs upon the Tow and Flocks that are within the Ovens ranking them all round and they 'll put about eight thousand in an Oven After twelve days time that the Eggs have been there the Chickens are hatch'd and come out so that the time of heating the Ovens and the time the Eggs have been in them make in all two and twenty days But it is pleasant to see these Chickens in one side some thrusting out their heads others striving and struggling to get out their bodies and others again which on the other side are quite out of the shell tripping up and down upon the rest of the Eggs for if you stay there but the least you 'll see all these progresses When they are all hatched they gather them up measure them in a Bushel that wants a bottom and sell them by that measure to all that please to buy and then divide the profit betwixt the Owners and the Masters of the Ovens During the four months that they plie this business they use above three hundred thousand Eggs but all do not succeed Such as have a very nice palate think that these Pullets are not so good as those which are hatched by a Hen but the difference is but little or rather it is only in fancy and it is still very much to imitate Nature so near Many think that this cannot be done but in Aegypt because of the warmth of the Climate but the Great Duke of Florence having sent for one of these Men he hatched them aswel there as in Aegypt The same also as I was told had been done in Poland and I certainly believe it may be done any where provided it be in some place under ground where no Air comes in but the great difficulty is to proportion the heat to such a temperate degree that there be neither too much nor too little either of which would prove unsuccesful CHAP. XII Of the Burying-place where the Dead rise IT is strange to see the Superstitions that reign among People and there is no Country that can pretend to be free from them only some have more and some less but the strangest thing of all is that they will not be undeceived and if any man offer to lay open the Cheat he is presently taken for an Atheist and wicked Person No People that I know are certainly more Superstitious than the Aegyptians as I shall hereafter make it out but at present it shall be enough to give one instance of it Upon the River-side near to old Caire there is a great Burying-place where many dead Bodies are Interred All the Inhabitants of Caire not only Cophtes and Greeks but also Turks and Moors are fully perswaded that on Holy Wednesday Thursday An imaginary Resurrection of the dead in Aegypt and Friday according to their account who follow the old Calendar the dead rise there not that the dead People walk up and down the Church-yard but that during these three days their Bones come out of the Ground and then when they are over return to their Graves again I went to that Burying-place on the Holy Friday of the Greeks and other Christians who follow the old Calendar that I might see what Ground they had for this stupid Belief and I was astonished to find as many People there as if it had been at a Fair for all both small and great in Caire flock thither and the Turks go in procession with all their Banners because they have a Scheikh Interred there whose Bones as they say come out every year and take the Air with the rest and there they say their Prayers with great Devotion When I came to the place I saw here and there some Sculls and Bones and every one told me that they were just come out of the Earth which they so firmly beleive that it is impossible to make them think otherwise for I spoke to some who one would think ought to have more sense than the rest and they assured me it was a truth and that when you are in a place where the Ground is very even while you are looking to one side Bones will come up on the other side within two steps of you I who would willingly have seen them come up before my Face not doubting but the Bones which were to be seen had been secretly scattered by some Santo's fell a jeering the Men An Apparition of the blessed Virgin in a Nunnery of the Cophtes Gemiane An Apparition of Saints among the Cophtes but finding that they were in the same errour with the rest I durst not say all
that go to other places that so they may avoid the heat which is almost insupportable and when the Moon does not shine there are Men who carry Links before the Caravan In all Caravans the Camels are tied tail to tail so that let them but go and there is no trouble of leading them Here I 'll give the Reader an account how many Stages there are betwixt Caire and Mecha how many days they stay in them how many hours travelling there is betwixt them and at what Stages the Waters are sweet or bitter all along the way This little Itinerary I had from a Prince of Tunis An Itinerary from Caire to Mecha who made that Journey whilst I was at Caire From Caire to the Birque it is reckoned four hours Journey there is fresh water there From the Birque to Misana that is to say Cistern ten hours no water there Misana Kalaat Aadgeroud Navatir Raftagara Kalaat el Nahhal Abiar Alaina Sath el Akaba Kalaat el Akaba Dar elHhamar Scharafe Benigateie Magare Chouaib Eyoun el Kaseb Kalaat el Moilah Castel Kalaat Ezlem Istanbel Antir Kalaat el Voudge Ekre Hank Krue Hhawre Nabte Nabathean Arabs Hazire Yanbouh Soucaife Beder Hunein Sibil el Mouhsin Rabij Haramein From Misana to Kalaat Aadgeroud which is to say the Castle of Sand-Pits twelve hours and an half there is bitter water there From the Castle of Aadgeroud to Navatir seven hours and an half no water there From Navatir to Rastagara ten hours no water there and the way bad From Rastagara to Kalaat el Nahhal that is to say the Castle of Palmes fifteen hours there they stay a day and have fresh water From the Castle of Nahhal to Abiar Alaina fourteen hours only bâ—tter water there From Abiar Alaina to Sath el Akaba that is to say the Plain of the Hill fifteen hours no water there From Sath el Akaba to Kalaat el Akaba that is to say the Castle of the Hill that 's upon the side of the Red-Sea sixteen hours there they stay two days and an half the way is very bad but they have fresh water From the Castle el Akaba to Darel Hhamar six hours and an half no water there Dar el Hhamar signifies Asses Back and it is like the Mountain in Italy where there is an Inn called Scarga l'asino From Dar el Hhamar to Scharafe Benigateie fourteen hours no water there From Scharafe Benigateie to Magare Chouaib that is to say the Grott of Jethro fourteeen hours fresh water there that is the Countrey of the Midionites From Magare Chouaib to Eyoun el Kaseb fourteen hours and an half fresh water there It was in that place where Jethro's Daughters going to water their Cattel and the Shepherds offering to hinder them Moses protected and defended them against those who would have hindred them to draw water From Eyoun el Kaseb to Kalaat el Moilah which is by the Sea-side fifteen hours there they rest two days and an half and have fresh water From Kalaat el Moilah to Castel eleven hours bitter water there From Castel to Kalaat Ezlem fifteen hours and an half bitter water there From Kalaat Ezlem to Istanbel antir fourteen hours fresh water there From Istanbel antir to Kalaat el Voudge that is to say the Castle of the Face thirteen hours and an half fresh water there From Kalaat el Voudge to Ekre sixteen hours no water there but what is bitter From Ekre to Hank Krue that is to say Gulf twelve hours and an half no water there From Hank Krue going to Hhawre they enter into the Territory of Mecha to Hhawre it is thirteen hours only bitter water there From Hhawre to Nabte fifteen hours fresh water there From thence come the Nabathean Arabs Eurus ad auroram Nabathaeaque regna recessit From Nabte to Hazire thirteen hours and an half no water there From Hazire to Yanbouh that is to say Fountain fourteen hours and an half there they stay two days and an half and have fresh water From Yanbouh to Soucaife thirteen hours no water there From Soucaife to Beder Hunein that is to say the Moon of Hunein eight hours fresh water there Hunein was a Man that shew'd the Moon in his Well From Beder Hunein to Sibil el Mouhsin that is to say the way of Benefaction or Benefit fourteen hours fresh water there From Sibil el Mouhsin to Rabij seventeen hours fresh water there Rabij is a Sacred Place that is to say not to be entered into without being well prepared and purged from all sin Hence it is that there are two places which are called Haramein Sacred Places to wit Mecha and Medina that is to say which are two Holy Places where one should take heed not to set his foot Kawdire Bi r el fan Vadi Fatima Mecha unless he be well washed from all Sin. From Rabij to Kawdire fifteen hours no Water there From Kawdire to Bi r el fan fourteen hours fresh water there From Bi r el fan to Vadi Fatima fourteen hours fresh water there From Vadi Fatima to Mecha six hours CHAP. XVIII Of Mecha THE Musulmans have so great a veneration for Mecha not only because Mahomet was Born there but more especially for the Temple called Kiaabe that is to say square house that they think all who are not Musulmans are unworthy to come there and therefore they suffer them not so much as to come within some days journey of it and if a Christian or any other who were not Mahometan should be apprehended in that Holy Land he would be burned without mercy I never made the journey then but seeing in the conferences that I have had with a great many who have made it I have learned some things relating thereunto I think I may tell what I know especially since no man that I know of hath as yet given us any true relation of it A description of Mecha Kiaabe Mecha is an ancient Town scituated among the Mountains and built all of Stone and Morter in the middle of this Town is the Kiaabe which is a square House surrounded with a wall that hinders people from approaching it there being a void space betwixt the House and the Wall the House is covered with a Dome Within it there is a well of indifferent good Water at least in respect of the other Waters of Mecha which are so bitter that one can hardly drink of them There is besides on the right hand near the door as they enter into that House a black stone as big as a mans Head which they say came down from Heaven A black stone come down from Heaven and that heretofore it was white but that through the Sins of men it became black as it is at present He that first can kiss it at the time when they give one another the Selam after the Prayer of Kouschlouk A great happiness for him that
it there are some who pay so much a year to the Grand Signior for liberty to catch Wild-duck and Fish in it Friday all day long the rest of the Caravan was a coming and Saturday Morning a Man cried aloud that all should make ready to depart at Noon for it is the custome in Caravans that are any thing big to give notice of parting some hours before but towards Noon there fell so great a Tempest A Tempest in the Desart for in Sandy Desarts there are Tempests aswel as at Sea that we could not set out that day It blew so furiously that I thought all the Tents would have been carried away by the Wind which drove before it such clouds of Sand that we were almost buried under it for seeing no body could stay abroad without having mouth and eyes immediately filled with Sand we lay under the Tent where the Wind drove in the Sand above a foot deep round about us We had two Pasties not as yet opened and they were wrapt up in napkins at the bottom of a Maund well covered with a napkin sewed over it When the Storm was over which lasted not above three or four hours we opened our Pasties but found them so full of sand that no body could eat of them so subtile and penetrating the sand is so that we were forced to throw them away and these are the occasions when one finds the advantage of a good Tent. Next day the twentieth of January we parted at eleven a clock in the Morning and at three in the Afternoon rested that we might drink Coffee then half an hour after the Timbrels sounding we marched on till one a clock next morning The march of the Caravans for in the Caravans there is commonly a Man mounted on a Camel who now and then beats two Timbrels or Kettle-drums that are on each side of the Camel before him the Cases of these Timbrels are of brass and they serve not only to chear up the Camels who delight much in such a noise and in singing but also to give warning to those that stay behind Monday afternoon we parted and having rested a little about five a clock half an hour we set forward again and marched on till four of the clock in Tuesday morning travelling always a good league an hour About half an hours march beyond the place where we had rested we saw a very handsome Turkish Sepulchre where the Kiaya of a Caravan lies buried who coming from Suez was set upon by many Arabs The Kiaya having for a long time fought with the Arabs in defence of the Caravan as his office obliged him for the Kiaya of the Caravan is the Lieutenant of the Governour of Suez and is obliged to guard all the Caravans that come or go from Caire to Suez this Kiaya I say after a long fight received a thrust with a Pike in the Belly of which he presently died and was interred in the same place Since that time the Vessels on the Red-Sea pay five thousand Piastres at Suez to maintain an hundred Soldiers whereof fifty are to abide in a Castle near to Suez to guard the Countrey and the other fifty with the Kiaya wait upon the Caravans An hours journey beyond that Sepulchre we found a great long Cistern built of fair Free-stone which is filled by Rain-water A little farther and a good hour before one arrives at Suez there is a fair Well but the water of it is not good Arrival at Suez Tuesday the two and twentieth of January we arrived at Suez in the Night-time CHAP. XXV Of the Journey from Suez to Tor. BEing come to Suez I had a great mind to go see Mount Sinai Mount Sinai Dgebel Mousa the Mountain of Moses called in Arabick Dgebel Mousa which is in Arabia the Stony and for that purpose we spoke to an Arab Scheick who commanded above ten thousand Arabs we had him before Haley Bey the Bey of Suez who recommended us to him saying that it was his pleasure we should be treated as his own head Orders given to the Scheiek to answer for the Traveller this Scheik said he would answer for us and gave us two Arab Scheiks for Guides besides that the Bey ordered a Letter to be written in our presence to the Governour of Tor wherein he kindly recommended us to him and gave us the Letter These Arab Scheiks furnished us with Camels and we paid them twelve Aslanies for each Camel to carry us thither and back again they made us take six to wit one for every one of us even for our Moor Servant and two for themselves and for carrying our Provisions We gave them beside sixteen Piastres for some Caffaires which must be paid to the Arabs upon the Road Caffaire signifies Money given for the Redemption of any thing Caffarie as what is paid to the Arabs in nature of Caffaire is that one may not be robb'd More than that we were obliged to give them their Diet so that all they had to do was to guide us and feed the Camels We provided for their Diet three Septiers measures of Flower Butter Honey Provision for two Scheicks and twelve pound weight of Coffee and ordinary Tobacco and for ourselves we took what we could get for there is nothing to be found to eat in all that Journey We caused Bread then and Bisket to be made for us of part of our Flower and finding no Wine at Suez because the Jew who us'd to sell it was gone to Damiette to buy some we took Brandy made of Dates Meat ready drest and in short all that we could get to serve us till we came to Tor where the Slaves of Suez assured us we should find all things but above all we were sure not to forget six Borrachios which we filled with water we carried no Tents with us because the Slaves told us that if we travell'd in so much state the Arabs might set upon us thinking they should find great Booty but we did very ill in omitting them for we were in no danger considering how we were recommended and having with us Arab Scheicks who bore rule among them All our Provisions being then in a readiness The Journey to Tor. every one mounted his Camel as if we had been takeing Horse and parted from Suez on Friday the five and twentieth of January about four of the Clock after noon keeping along the side of the Red-sea till we came to the end of it where we crossed over dry to the other side there we saw a Bear about an hundred paces from us but so soon as it perceived us it took the Water and swam over to the other side so that we soon lost sight of it we found many more of them afterwards on our Journey We travelled till eight a Clock at night and then rested in a place where there was some Broom for they never brought us to rest any where but in
when we rested in a place where there were a great many fair Trees Near to that is a place where the Rain-water that falls from the Mountains is kept and that water is very good Here it was that the People of Israel came out of the Red-Sea having passed it over dry to the ruine and confusion of Pharaoh and all his men who pursued them as may be seen in the Book of Exodus where this place is called Shur Chap. 15. Exod. Chap. 15. Corondel Haman of Pharaon It is at present called Corondel Not far from thence there are hot waters in a Grott which the Arabs call Haman el Pharaon that is to say Pharaon's Bath They tell a thousand stories of it amongst others that if you put four Eggs into it you can take out but three and so many as one puts in there is always one fewer taken out again and that the Devil keeps for himself we did not see that place for our Arabs would not take us to it because it was a little out of the way They say also that over against Corondel the Sea is always Tempestuous about the place where Pharaoh and the Aegyptians were Drowned We parted from thence at one of the clock and continued travelling till seven then we rested in a place where there are Trees also Next day being Monday the twenty eighth of January we set out at four a Clock in the Morning and having passed over several Hills we came into good way again near to the Sea but there is one place to be passed over just by the side of it being white and smooth Rocks where the Camels had much ado to keep from sliding chiefly because they are wet with the Sea-water but that lasts not long we rested at Noon and half an hour after set forwards again and towards the evening entred among Hills where we travelled till six a Clock that we rested in the hollow of a Rock where we spent the Night at that Stage and we could find no wood not to boyl so much as our Coffee Tuesday the twenty ninth of January we parted at five a clock in the Morning and entred into a plain where we travelled till Noon and then having rested a little after one a Clock we marched on over the same Plain until six a Clock at Night and then rested Next day Wednesday the thirtieth of January we parted at four a clock in the Morning and four hours after arrived at Tor about an hour before we came to Tor we found a great many Palm-trees and a well of very bad Water CHAP. XXVI Of Tor and of our arrival at Mount Sinai Tor. TOR is no considerable place nevertheless it has a good harbour for Ships and Galleys This Port is guarded by a little square Castle on the Sea-side with a Tower at each corner and two small Guns on the out-side before the Gate an Aga is Governour of this Castle where none but Turks lodge Near to it there is a Convent of Greeks dedicated to St. Catherine and to the Apparition of God to Moses in the Burning-Bush We delivered the Aga the Letter from the Bey of Suez but because we had no present for him he made no great account of us We lodged in the Convent which is very fair and spacious there we were very well received entertained with the Best and ate Fish of the Red-Sea at that time there were thirty Monks in it We searched for Provisions there but could not find any only the Monks commiserating our condition gave us Olives Dates Onions and a Jar of Brandy which we husbanded as well as we could we stayed a day there because the Monks told us that we needed two Septiers more of Flower so that having bought the Corn and got it ground they baked Bread of one half of it to give our Arabs by the way and upon the Mount and all this they did in a very obliging manner While we were there we bought of these poor Greeks several stone-Mushromes which in that place are got out of the Red-Sea as also small Stone-shrubs or branches of Rock which they call white Coral and many great shells all taken out of the Sea and very pleasant for artificial works But they could not furnish me with any thing of a certain Fish A Sea-man which they call a Sea-man however I got the hand of one since This Fish is taken in the Red-Sea about little Isles that are close by Tor. It is a great strong Fish and hath nothing extraordinary but two hands which are indeed like the hands of a man saving that the Fingers are joined together with a skin like the foot of a Goose but the skin of the Fish is like the skin of a wild Goat or Shamois When they spie that Fish they strike him on the back with Harping-Irons as they do Whales and so kill him They use the skin of it for making Bucklers which are Musquet proof Having payed all and made a Present of some Piastres to the Monks for their kind reception we prepared to be gone but were obliged first to pay a due of twenty eight Maidins a head to wit four for Tor and twenty four for the Mount and all to the use of the Arabs We parted from Tor on Thursday the last of January about eleven a clock in the Fore-noon with a Monk whom they sent with us to shew us the chief Places of the Mount and we payed for a Camel to carry him thither and back again He spoke to us Turkish and Arabick for he understood not a word of Lingua Franca we saw on our way the Garden of the Monks of Tor which is not far from it this Garden is the place which in Holy Scripture is called Elim Elim where when the Israelites went that way there were only seventy Palm-Trees and twelve wells of bitter water which Moses made sweet by casting a piece of Wood into them these Wells are still in being being near one another and most of them within the precincts of the Garden the rest are pretty near they are all hot and are returned again to their first bitterness for I tasted of one of them where People Bath themselves Hamam Mousa which by the Arabs is called Hamam Mousa that is to say the Bath of Moses it is in a little dark Cave there is nothing in that Garden but abundance of Palm-Trees which yield some rent to the Monks but the seventy old Palm-Trees are not there now After we had seen these things we filled our Borrachios with the water of a Well near to that place which belongs to the Monks I told them that it stunk a little and they made answer that they had not Scowered it that year as they used every year to do but withall that it was the best water thereabouts Heretofore they had a Church near to that Well which the Turks Demolished and with the stones of it built the aforesaid
Castle called Tor. We travelled in the Plain till six a clock at night and then rested This Plain is in Holy Scripture called the Desart of Sin Desart of Sin. Acacia where the Israelites longing after the Onions of Aegypt God sent them Manna In this Plain we saw many Acacia-Trees from which they have the Gum that the Arabs call also Akakia It is to be observed that the Acacia-Trees which are now so common in France came at first from America and do not yield that Gum and that which in the Shops is called Acacia is the inspissated Juice of wild Plumb-Trees and comes from Germany these Trees are neither bigger nor higher than our ordinary Willows but the leaves of them are very thin and prickley The Arabs gather the Gum in Autumn without pricking the Trees for it runs of it self and then they sell it in the Town Next day Friday the first of February we set out about five a Clock in the Morning and entred among high Mountains where we rested near a Brook and putting on again about eleven a clock we travelled till about half an hour after four that we came into a little Plain where finding some Cottages of Arabs our Guides would go no farther that day Cottages of Arabs but feasted merrily on the Milk that we bought for them in these Cottages There we saw a great many Women and little Children most of them Sucking We parted from thence Saturday the second of February about two a clock in the Morning and travelled a Foot over other Hills where the way was very bad about eight a Clock in the morning we found little Houses pretty well built where Arabs live at present Raphidim This place is called Raphidim in holy Scripture A little further we saw several Gardens belonging to the Monks very well walled round and full of all sorts of fruit-Trees and Vines too kept in good order The Rock which Moses smote with his Rod. Then we found the Rock out of which Moses brought Water when he had smitten it twice with his Rod it is only a Stone of a prodigious height and thickness rising out of the Ground on the two sides of that stone we saw several holes by which the water hath run as may be easily known by the prints of the Water that hath much hollowed it but at present no water issues out of them This Stone in Holy Scripture is called the Stone of Strife About ten in the Morning we came to a Monastery of Greeks dedicated to the honour of the forty Martyrs from this to the great Monastery where the Body of St. Catherine lyes it is two hours travelling This Monastery of the forty Martyrs is pretty neat it hath a fair Church and a lovely large Garden wherein are Apple-Trees Pear-Trees Walnut-Tree Orange-Trees Limon-Trees Olive-Trees and all other Fruit-Trees that grow in this Country and indeed that little of good Fruit which is eat at Caire comes from Mount Sinai besides that there are fine Vineyards and very good water there A Greek Monk lives always in this Monastery and he whom we found there told us that he had been twenty years in it he takes care to see the Gardens dress'd and kept in order by some Arabs who willingly serve him We rested in this Monastery at the foot of the Mountain of St. Catherine CHAP. XXVII Of the Mountain of St. Catharine The Mountain of St. Catharine HAving reposed our selves in the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs we went out at One of the Clock and ascended the Mountain of St. Catharine that is before it taking with us a little Arab Boy who carryed a small Leather Bucket full of Water that we might drink when we were dry We were near three Hours in getting up that Mountain we stopt indeed several times by the way to drink Water but besides the Hill is full of sharp cutting Stones and many steep and slippery places to be climb'd up that hinder People from going fast There are many Stones to be found in ascending this Hill on which Trees are naturally represented that being broken retain the same Figure within of which Stones some are prodigiously big About the middle of the Mountain there is a lovely Spring of clear Water with a great Bason in the Rock This Spring was discovered by a Quail when the Monks having brought down the Body of St. Catharine so far were ready to die for Heat and Thirst and that Spring began at that time to run This water was so hard frozen in the Bason that we could not break the Ice with good blows of a Stick In many places of the Mountain we saw also a great deal of Snow and at length got up to the top of it where there is a Dome under which is the place whither the Body of St. Catharine was brought by Angels immediately after she was Beheaded in Alexandria that holy Body remained Three hundred Years there until a good Monk having had in the Night-time a Revelation that the Body was in the top of the Hill went next Morning with all the Religious who in Procession brought it down to the Monastery where it was put in a lovely Silver Shrine that is still there Under the Dome where this Body lay there is a great piece of Rock rising a little out of the Ground whereon they say the Angels placed it and it bears still the marks as if a Body had been laid on the Back upon it for the form of the Reins appear there The Greeks hold that this Cave was made by Miracle but there is some likelihood that it hath been done by the Hands of Men They made this little Dome about the Rock in form of a square Chappel Having in this place paid our Devotions we came down again with a great deal of trouble and were two long hours by the way so that we were tired enough when we arrived at the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs at six a clock at night CHAP. XXVIII Of the Mountain of Moses The Mountain of Moses WEE set out of our Lodging on Sunday the third of February about seven a clock in the morning that we might go see the Mountain of Moses which is not so high nor so hard to ascend as the former But there is much Snow upon it aswel as upon the other and many good Cisterns in several places especially near the top there is a fair and good Cistern After several rests we got to the top about nine a clock On it there are two Churches one for the Greeks and another for the Latins from the Greek Church you enter into that of the Latins which is dedicated to the Ascension of our Lord there we heard Mass said by the Capucin who was with us Near to that there is a little Mosque and by the side of it a Hole or little Cave where Moses fasted Forty Days There is a small Grott also at the side of the
condition that they should give Victuals to all the Arabs of the neighbourhood And for that reason when there are any Monks in the Monastery they are obliged to give Half a Peck of Corn to every Arab that comes and these Arabs grind it in a little Mill that they carry always about with them who come sometimes to the number of an hundred and fifty two hundred nay four hundred in a day and must all be served so that it amounts sometimes to many Quarters of Corn and to some they give three or four Piastres a year more or less according as they deserve it Now about two years before I was there Provisions coming to the Monastery the Arabs robb'd them which made the Greeks forsake the Convent the Gate whereof is walled up and the Walls so high that they cannot be scaled and without Cannon that place cannot be taken if there were any within to defend it But now for two years there has no body lived in it because they would punish the Arabs by depriving them of the sustenance which they daily had of them till they can bring them to reason and therefore it was that we found so many Monks in that Monastery of Tor whither they were almost all retired for there are not so many there when the Convent of Mount Sinai is open These Monks had many Rents in Candy which they lost by the Invasion of the Turks They have a Bishop who is called the Bishop of Mount Sinai on whom depend all these Convents and Chappels even the Convent of Tor too and this Bishop depends not on the Patriarch he was at that time at Caire We were fain to rest satisfied then with what we saw of that Monastery from the top of the Mount. CHAP. XXX Of Mount Horeb and of the Place where the Golden Calf was molten c. AFter we had walked round that Monastery we returned Mount Horeb. and saw at some small distance Mount Horeb on which Moses fed his Flocks when he saw the Burning Bush And near to that are the Mountains upon which Aaron prayed for the People all little ones There is a fair Garden adjoyning to the Monastery and within the Walls of it a lovely Chappel dedicated to the Holy Virgin. Upon our return from the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs about half a quarter of a league from the said Garden we saw the Stone or rather Place where the Golden Calf was molten it is in the very Rock The place where the Golden Calf was molten where one may see a great Head of a Calf cut to the life and within that place it was as the Greeks say that the Riches and Ornaments of the Israelites were cast of which they made the Head of the Golden Calf that they worshipped while Moses was with God upon the Mountain But it is more probable that the Greeks have in that place cut the Head of the Calf in the Rock to shew the place where it was Cast or where it was placed upon a Pillar Something near to that there is a high and great Stone with some Inscription upon it but so defaced that none of it can be read The Greeks say that this Stone was to mark the place where Jeremiah hid the Vessels of Gold and Silver and other costly Furniture of the Temple of Salomon when the Israelites were carried away Captives to Babylon and that it is not known how it hath been brought thither but that there is a very ancient Authour that speaks of it as being on Mount Sinai Father Kercher explains it in his Prodromus Copticus Father Kercher where he forges an Explanation of these Characters which are unknown to all Men besides himself as if they were Hieroglyphicks whereof without doubt he hath had the meaning by Revelation I relate all these things according to the Tradition of the People of the Countrey which not being authorized by Texts of Scripture nor ancient History I leave it to the Reader to believe or not believe as he thinks fit Having seen what was to be seen we returned to the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs very weary after so much mounting and descending Our luck was good that no Wind blew when we went up these Mountains for whether hot or cold it would have kill'd us CHAP. XXXI Of our Return to Suez WEE had so bad entertainment on Mount Sinai Return from Mount Sinai to Suez that we thought of nothing but of returning as soon as we could to Suez where we hoped to refresh ourselves and therefore Monday the Fourth of February having made a Present of some Money to the Monk who lives in the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs we set out at eight of the clock in the morning to go see what still remained to be seen being unwilling notwithstanding all our fatigue to leave any thing unseen we went first to the Church of the Twelve Apostles and then having travelled about an hour and one half of it up hill we went down into a very low place where there is a little Habitation with several Gardens full of Fruit-trees and a large Spring of excellent Water There there is a little Church dedicated to St. Cosme and St. Damian Having ascended a little we went down by the very place where the Earth opened and swallowed up Corah Corah Dathan and Abiram Dathan and Abiram because they had mutinied against Moses About eleven of the clock we came to a place where our Camels stay'd for us and having dined and given some Piastres to the Monk who had shew'd us every thing for his pains we set out about noon and followed the same way we came till four of the clock in the afternoon that we left it and struck off to the right leaving the Red-Sea at a pretty good distance from us on our left hand We travelled in good way being the streightest pleasantest and shortest Road from Mount Sinai to Suez But as we went we took the way by Tor partly to see it and partly to take a Monk to guide us in our visitations About half an hour after five we rested in a great Plain Next morning Tuesday the Fifth of February we set out at four of the clock keeping still in good way and rested about ten of the clock in a place where there was Water We went from thence about eleven and came to rest again about half an hour after five in the evening Next day Wednesday the sixth of February we parted at five a clock in the morning and about eight some two or three hundred paces wide of the Road we found a Well of good water where we provided ourselves About half an hour after one of the clock we rested and at two went forwards again till six at night when we took up our rest Next day Thursday the seventh of February we parted about five of the clock in the morning about six we entered again into the way by which we
Earth Without the Town there are several goodly Mosques all faced with Marble on the outside and I beleive they were places that belonged all to the ancient City From Caire till we came thither we found no Wine but there we had some pretty good wherewith we provided ourselves and might have had pretty good Brandy too if we had had occasion We stayed at Gaza all Sunday the seventh of April waiting for the Jews who had stopp'd to celebrate their Sabbath at Cauniones On Monday morning when we thought of parting the Basha put a stop to it who having had intelligence that the master of the Caravan carried money for some Jews in Jerusalem who were his Debtors would needs pay himself with it The matter being taken up we parted from Gaza Tuesday the ninth of April at six a Clock in the Morning with some Turks for a Convoy about nine a Clock we passed over a very high and broad Bridge but of one single Arch which has at the higher end a Sibil joining to it and another a little beyond it about half an hour after ten we found another Sibil and about eleven two high-ways Megdel of which leaving to the left hand the one that at a hundred paces distance passes through a Village called Megdel we took the right hand way at the entry into which we found a Sibil and at noon another besides these there are a great many Birques upon the Road. Hhansedoud At three a Clock in the Afternoon we arrived at Hhansedoud travelling all the way from Gaza thither in a lovely plain full of Corn Trees and Flowers which yielded a rare good smell A Plain of Tulips and Emonies This Plain is all embroadered with Tulips and Emonies when the season is but then it was past and these Flowers would be reckoned beautiful in France Hhansedoud is a pitiful Village where there is a Han for Caravans built of small Free-stone and the doors faced with Iron but we went not into it because we would make no stay designing to make up our Mondays journey which we lost at Gaza and therefore we encamped upon a little height about two hundred paces beyond the Village from whence we parted the same day Tuesday the ninth of April at nine a clock at night and at one a clock in the morning passed a Village called Yebna at the end of which we crossed over a Bridge that is very broad about half an hour after three we found a lovely large well and a Sibil close by it as a little farther another Wednesday the tenth of April about four of the clock in the morning Rama Ramla we arrived at Rama called in Arabick Ramla we went not into it because we had no mind to lye there but encamped in a Plain over against the Town and then went to the Town to see the French Merchants that live there Rama is a Town depending on the Basha of Gaza and therein is the House of Nicomedes The House of Nicomedes where some French Merchants and their Chaplain live In the same House there is a pretty Church and it is the House where the Franks who are on Pilgrimage lodge when they pass through Rama The Door of that House is not three foot high and so are all the Doors in the Town to hinder the Arabs from entering into their Houses on Horse-back The Church of the Forty Martyrs is also in this Town and hath a very high square Steeple which in times past was as high again Heretofore there was a stately large Convent there of which the Cloyster seems still to be very entire by what we could observe in passing by the Gate for we were told that Christians were not permitted to enter it There is another Church there also dedicated to the Honour of St. George We parted from Rama on Thursday the eleventh of April at six of the clock in the morning and a little after came to a stony way which grew worse and worse all along till we came to our Lodging About nine of the clock we saw to the right hand the Village of the Good Thief Bethlakij called in Arabick Bethlakij after that we paid the Caffaire and took a Guard as far a Jerusalem before we came to that Village we found two Ways of which that which is the good Way is on the right hand and passes through the Village and the other is on the left hand which we took to avoid a Caffaire but it led us among Hills in very bad Way and at length we encamped amidst the Mountains about half an hour after two in the afternoon in a place close by a ruinous old Building which heretofore was a Convent of Franciscan Friers there are still some Arches standing and many others under ground wherein at present the Arabs put their Cows Near to it there is a Spring of very good Water issuing out of a Rock which perhaps was formerly enclosed within the Convent Friday the twelfth of April about five of the clock in the morning we parted from that place and about seven were got out from among the Hills which last about six or seven miles and are all covered with very thick Woods and a great many Flowers in Pasture-ground After that we travelled in pretty good Plains though there be many Stones in the way About eight of the clock Dgib the Town of Samuel we saw to the right hand a Village called in Arabick Dgib which was heretofore the Town of Samuel it stands upon an Eminence and in it there is a Mosque covered with a Dome they say Samuel is interred there and the Jews visite it out of Devotion About half an hour after nine we discovered a little on the right hand the beginning of the Holy City of Jerusalem Coudscherif called by the Turks Coudscherif and after about a quarter of an hours travelling we saw it plainly before us and arrived there after ten a clock in the morning but we who were Franks stay'd at the Gates of the City till the Religious sent for us When he had waited about an hour at the Gate which is called Damascus-Gate we were introduced into the City by the Trucheman of the Convent who came with a Turk belonging to the Basha that visited our Baggage for if a Frank entered the Town of Jerusalem before the Religious had obtained a permission for him from the Basha he would have an Avanie put upon him They led us to the Convent of St. Saviour where the Monks live and where after we had dined we were shew'd into an Appartment to rest ourselves This is a very commodious Convent both for the Religious and Pilgrims The reception of Pilgrims at Jerusalem About three of the clock in the afternoon a Monk came and washed our Feet with warm water and at four we were conducted to the Church where after the Compline the Reverend Father Commissary for at that time
very stony from Jerusalem to the Plain of Jericho where we arrived and encamped about two in the afternoon We took no care to carry with us Tents Victuals nor any other Necessaries in all that Journey for the Monks made it their business to provide us with Horses Victuals and Tents and to shew us all without paying any thing but for our Horses The Town of Jericho is about a quarter of a league from thence Jericho which formerly was a famous City but at present consists only of thirty or forty Brick-Houses inhabited by Arabs These Houses were all forsaken when we went that way because the Arabs had fled for fear of the Turks that went with us Near to these Habitations we saw the House of Zacheus The House of Zacheus about a quarter of a league from the Camp as I said already and then we returned to the Camp. In the Plain of Jericho Roses of Jericho there are Roses of Jericho as they call them but they have not the vertues as many ascribe to them for they blow not unless they be put into water and then they blow in all seasons and at any hour contrary to the Opinion of those who say That they blow not but in Christmas Night and others on all the Festival Days of our Lady with a great many such idle tales I found of them also in the Desarts of Mount Sinai Next day Tuesday the sixteenth of April we set out about three of the clock in the morning and travelled on still in the Plain till about half an hour after five we came to the River of Jordan which is something deep The River of Jordan and perhaps half as broad as the Scine at Paris it is very rapid and the water of it thick because it passes through fat Land but they say it corrupts not The course of Jordan and I filled a Bottle of it to try the experiment but the Corsairs whom I met with threw it into the Sea this River has its source from two Springs towards Mount Libanus called Jor and Dan which joyned together make Jordan It runs from East to South passes through the Sea of Tiberius and loses it self in that nasty and stinking Lake Asphaltites called the Dead-Sea Lake Asphaltites It is very full of Fish and on both sides beset with little thick and pleasant Woods among which thousands of Nightingales warbling all together make a most pleasant delightful and charming Consort Devotions at Jordan Here our Monks quickly erected an Altar upon which they sayed two Masses at the first of which I received the Sacrament but it was very incommodious for it behoved one besides he that Celebrates to hold the Chalice Veil c. Lest the Wind which blew high might overturn and carry them away and another to hide the Tapers lest they should be blown out During that time all the Greeks Cophtes Armenians c. Performed their Devotions also most part go into the Water stark-naked especially the Men and the Women in their Smocks they had of the Water of Jordan poured upon their Heads in memory of our Lords Baptism and washed their Linen in it carrying away Jarrs and Bottles full of Water with Mud and Earth which they took up by the River side not forgetting Sticks which they cut in the adjoining Woods and all to be kept as Relicks This River is rendred Illustrious by many Miracles as having stopt its course to let the Children of Israel pass over The Prophet Elisha passed it over dry-shod upon his Masters Cloak c. I was very desirous we might have gone afterwards to the Dead-Sea but the Turks would not and therefore I shall here relate what I have learn'd of it from those that have been there The Dead-Sea It was in this Sea that the five Cities of the Plain Sodom and Gomorrah c. Were swallowed up The water of it is very clear but extreamly Salt and in some places of it they find Salt as resplendant as Cristial It bears up all who wash in it though they move neither Hand nor Foot as many have found by Experience But I do not at all believe what some say that it bears up only Live things and lets things Inanimate sink to the Bottom nay that if a lighted Candle be plunged into it it will float above But if put out it will sink to the bottom There is no sort of Fish in this Sea by reason of the extraordinary saltness of it which burns like Fire when one tastes of it and when the Fish of the Water Jordan come down so low they return back again against the Stream and such as are carried into it by the Current of the Water The extent of the Dead-Sea immediately Die. This Sea is an hundred miles in length and twenty five over The Land within three Leagues round it is not Cultivated but is white and mingled with Salt and Ashes They say that there are Apple-Trees upon the sides of this Sea which bear very lovely Fruit but within are all full of Ashes In short we must think that there is a heavy Curse of God upon that place seeing it was heretofore so pleasant a Countrey There are many Camels load of Bitumen daily got out of this Lake Return from Jordan Having no liberty then to go see that Sea we parted from the River of Jordan about seven a clock in the Morning and returned back the same way as we came about nine a clock the Musellem who as I said commanded the Convoy halted in the middle of the Plain of Jericho and went into a Tent which was purposely pitched for him then he caused all the Latin Monks to pass by before him The Musellem numbers the Pilgrims who were numbered Then we who were secular Pilgrims passed by also and the Musellem ordered us to be set down eight though we were but six and though the Trucheman said that there was but six of us and offered to make us pass by him again yet nothing would be abated which was an Avanie of twenty Piastres for the Monks An avanie for the Pilgrims Franks for every Secular Frank payes ten Piastres but they pay it in the City because the Convent answers for them after we had been thus mustered we went and Encamped in the same place where we did the day before and having taken some refreshment we went to the Mount of the Quarantine The Mount of forty days Fasting ar forty days Fast not far from thence while the Musellem mustered the rest of the Christians who payed down in ready Money four Bokels and twenty Maidins a Head though the years before they payed no more but three Bokels We parted from the Camp about ten a Clock in the Morning then went to the Mount of Fasting a League distant from the Town of Jericho it is so called because our Lord when he came out of Jordan spent forty days
It is a Town at present almost desolate We lodged in the Convent which is commodious and neat enough being new built for it is but about forty Years since that place came into the hands of the Monks of the Holy Land being given them by the Emir Farir Eddin Thursday the ninth of May we went into the Church where we heard Mass and said our Prayers The place of the Annunciation this Church is on the same place where the Angel Gabriel Annunciated the Mystery of the Incarnation to the Virgin Mary when she was at Prayers so that that Grott was her Oratory you go down to it by seven or eight steps in the Court and by more in the Convent There are two lovely Pillars of greyish Stone in it which were put there by St. Helen one at the very place as they say where the Virgin was when she received that Heavenly Message and the other at the place where the Angel appeared from the lower part of that where the Virgin was there is about two Foot broken off by the Turks so that the rest hangs as it were in the Air sticking to the Vault to which the Capital of it is fastned The Chamber of the Virgin. Even with this Grott is the place of the Virgins Chamber which was by Angels Transported to Loretto so that there are two Nefs one of the Grott and another of the Chamber in the space whereof there is another Rebuilt exactly like that of Loretto It is thirteen paces long and four broad the Chamber and Grott together being also thirteen paces in length We went out of Nazareth the same day May the ninth about three in the Afternoon to go visit the holy places about it And in the first place about three quarters of a League South from Nazareth we saw a great Hill called the Precipice The Precipice which is the place where the Jews would have thrown our Saviour down headlong but He rendering himself invisible to them retreated as they say into a little Cell that looks like a large and deep Nich this Nich is about the middle of the Precipice and heretofore the prints of his Body were to be seen in it In this Nich there is an Altar on which sometimes they say Mass and the ruines of a Chappel still to be seen by it From the top of that Precipice you may see the Town of Naim where our Lord raised the Widows Son from the Dead it lies at the foot of the Hill called Hermon Hermon mentioned in the Psalms Betwixt the Precipice and Nazareth there are some ruines of a Nunnery Our Lady of fear where there was a Church dedicated to our Lady of Fear because they say the holy Virgin following our Lord whom the Jews led to precipitate him and being afraid they might put him to death as she was going fell down in this place and her Knee is very well marked in the Rock The Monks say that they caused a piece of the Rock to be cut off that they might have carried away that Impression but that after they had gone a few steps they could not carry it away Then upon a little Mount about six hundred paces from the Convent they shewed us a great Stone Our Saviour's Table St. Peter's Well called our Lord's Table because they have it by Tradition that our Saviour eat many times upon it with his Apostles Close by it is the Fountain called St. Peter's Well because our Lord returning back to the Town with his Apostles and St. Peter being dry our Saviour made that Well to spring out and the Water is very good After that we entered into the Town which is close by and about five a Clock at Night came to the Convent CHAP. LV. Of the House of the Cananean the Mount of Beatitudes the Mount of the two Fishes and five Loaves the Sea of Tiberias of Mount Tabor and other holy Places NEXT day being Friday the Tenth of May we parted from Nazareth about five a Clock in the Morning and a little after found the Fountain where the Blessed Virgin used to draw Water The Tomb of Jonas and there are some steps to go down to it Then on the left hand we saw the Tomb of Jonas to whom the Turks bear great respect as they do to all the Prophets We saw a print of his Foot on the Rock the same Foot being marked on four places of the Rock at some paces distance from one another We came next to the Well where the Water was drawn which our Lord turned into Wine at the Marriage of Cana. In the Sacristie of the Church of the Eleven Thousand Virgins at Cologne I saw one of the Pots wherein our Saviour wrought that Miracle changing the Water that was in it into so good Wine that the Guests who had not seen the Miracle wrought complained to the Master of the Feast that he brought forth the good Wine last seeing it was the custom to give the good Wine first and the bad last then we went into the House where our Lord wrought this Miracle St. Helen built there a Church with a little Convent where some Monks lived it is still standing but the Moors have changed it into a Mosque however we entred into it Having seen that place we Travelled a pretty while in the Plain where the Apostles pluck'd the Ears of Corn and rubbed them in their hands on the sabbath-Sabbath-Day The Sea of Galilee Bethulia then from a little height we discovered the Sea of Galilee from whence we also saw Bethulia where Judith killed Holofernes We saw also from that place pretty near the said Sea the top of Mount Libanus all white with Snow and about Ten in the morning we came to the Mount of Beatitudes so called The Mount of Beatitudes because it is the place where our Saviour made to his Apostles the Sermon of Beatitudes we went up to it and after we had heard the Gospel on that subject read by one of our Monks we came down again and continued our Journey The place and stone upon which our Lord blessed the two fishes and five loaves Tiberias and half an Hour after we came to the place where our Lord fed Five thousand men with two Fishes and five Loaves and twelve Baskets full of Fragments remained Having the Gospel read to us we eat in that place upon a Stone upon which they say he blessed the said Fishes and Loaves from thence we went to the Town of Tiberias which is upon the side of the Sea of Tiberias having been restored by Herod and named Tiberias from the name of the Emperour Tiberius We got there about Noon its Ruines and old Demolished Walls demonstrate it to have been a very large place The Walls of it having been ruined a Jewish Widow afterwards built new ones in form of a Fort with its Courtines and Jews lived there until about fifteen Years ago that the
Tyrannie of the Turks made them abandon it Among the ruines of the Town and even within the Precincts of it a great many Palm-Trees grow within this last Precinct there is a Castle upon the Sea-side which seems to have been a strong place A hundred paces from thence within the said Precinct we saw a Church five and twenty paces in length and fifteen broad dedicated to St. Peter which is still entire They say that St. Helen caused it to be built in the place where our Lord said to St. Peter Mat. c. 16. Thou art Peter and upon this Rock will I build my Church c. There we had that Gospel read to us Others say it is the place where our Lord eat Fish with his Apostles after his Resurrection when He appeared unto them upon the side of this Sea. We Dined in that place and then washed our selves in the Lake the Water whereof is fresh very good to Drink and full of Fish It is about twelve or fifteen Miles long and five or six over It was heretofore called the Sea of Galilee Lake of Genezareth Capernaum Mat. 9. Mat. 8. John 4. or Lake of Genezareth From thence on the left hand upon the side of that Sea we saw the ruines of the Town of Capernaum where St. Matthew left the Custom-House to follow our Lord and where our Saviour Cured the Centurion's Servant and the Son of the Nobleman and raised a Maid from the Dead About an hundred paces from the Precinct of the Town of Tiberias close by the Sea-side there is a natural Bath of hot Waters to which they go down by some steps The ancient Walls of Tiberias reached as far as this Bath We parted from Tiberias about two in the Afternoon and about seven a Clock at Night arrived at a Village called Sabbato near to which we lay abroad in the open Fields Aain Ettudgiar for our Monks would by no means have us to Lodge at the usual place which is at the Castle called Aain Ettudgiar that is to say the Merchants Well as being afraid of some Avanie Next day Saturday the eleventh of May we left that bad Inn about five a Clock in the Morning and half an hour after came to a Castle called Eunegiar which is square having a Tower at each Corner close by it there is a Han which appears to be pretty enough The place where Joseph was sold and is also square It was at this Castle as they say that Joseph was by his Brethren sold to an Ishmaelite Merchant the Pit or Well whereunto they had put him first is still to be seen but we went not to it because it was quite out of our Road. This Castle is commanded by a Sous-Basha and there we payed a Piastre of Caffare a piece of which one half goes to the Sous-Basha and the other to the Arabs From thence we went towards Mount Tabor Mount Tabor or Gabeltour by the Arabs called Gebeltour and came an hour after to the foot of it where alighting from our Horses though one may ride up on Horse-back as some of our Company did we got up to the top about nine a Clock It is easie to be mounted seeing one may go up on Horse-back but it is also very high being almost half a League from the bottom to the top Having taken a little breath we entred by a low Door into a little Grott where we found on the left hand a Chappel built in memory of the place where our Lord was Transfigured and of what St. Peter said It is good for us to be here let us make three Tabernacles c. This Chappel is made up of four Arches cross-ways one of them is the entry of the Chappel that which is opposite to it is the place where our Lord was when he was Transfigured that which is on the right hand of it but on the left hand of those that enter into the Chappel is the place where Moses was because in holy Scripture Moses is mentioned before Elias The fourth which is over against that of Moses is the place where Elias was and a Monk read to us there the Gospel of the Transfiguration Near to this place there is a little Plain and a Cistern of excellent Water This Mount is shaped like a Sugar-Loaf and is covered all over with Trees for most part hard Oaks After we had eaten in that place we came down about ten a Clock in the Morning and took our way towards the Convent of Nazareth where we arrived about one of the Clock In the Evening we went to see the House and Shop of St. Joseph very near to the Convent there is an old ruinous building there which appears to have been a Church wherein were three Altars The House and Shop of St. Joseph built by St. Helen and a few steps farther we saw the Synagogue where our Lord taught the Jews when they had a mind to precipitate him CHAP. LVI The way by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth ONE may Travel by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth The way by Land from Jerusalem to Nazareth and besides avoiding the dangers that offer by Sea see a great many other curious places but as I have already said the Arabs exact such unreasonable Caffares upon the Road that few go that way at present however I shall set it down in this Place Parting from Jerusalem after Dinner you come to Lodge at Elbir Elbir there there is a very curious Village standing upon a height and Inhabited by a few People There is also a Church half ruined which was heretofore a fair Fabrick The Walls that yet stand are of great Flints They say that this was the place where the blessed Virgin lost her dear Son Jesus and therefore returned to Jerusalem where she found him in the Temple Disputing with the Doctors Next day you Lodge at Naplouse Travelling all the way over Hills and Dales Naplouse which are nevertheless Fruitful and in many places bear plenty of Olive-Trees Naplouse is the Town which in holy Scripture is called Sichim Sichem near to which Jacob and his Family most frequently Lived it stands partly on the side and partly at the foot of a Hill. The Soil about it is fertile and yields Olives in abundance The Gardens are full of Orange and Citron-Trees watered by a River and sundry Brooks About one hundred paces from the Town towards the East there is a spring under a Vault which discharges its water into a reservatory of one entire piece of Marble ten spans long five broad and as much in height in the front there are some Foliages and Roses cut in Relief upon the Marble About half a quarter of a League from thence upon the Road from Jerusalem is the Well of the Samaritan The Well of the Samaritane as the Christians of the Country say who keep it covered with great Stones least the Turks should fill it up
When these Stones are removed you go down into a Vault by a little hole opposite to the mouth of the Well and there another great Stone is to be removed before you come at the Well which is sixteen fathom deep Cimented narrow at the top and wide at the bottom Over the aforesaid Vault there are some ruines of the Buildings of a Village two little Pillars are to be seen still standing and many Olive-Trees all round Near to that is the portion of Land which Jacob gave to his Son Joseph it is a very pleasant place and his Sepulchre is in it Mount Gerezim Mount Gerezim mentioned in holy Scripture is on the right hand as you go to that Well There is a Chappel at the foot of this Mountain where the Samaritans heretofore worshipped an Idol On the South side of the Town there is another Mount called in Arabick Elmaida that is to say Table Elmaida where they say our Lord rested himself being weary upon the Road There is a Cushion of the same Stone raised upon the Rock still to be seen and some prints of Hands and Feet and they say that in times past the figure of our Lords whole Body was to be discerned upon it This is a pleasant place having a full prospect of the Town To the West of it there is a Mosque heretofore a Church built upon the same ground where the House of Jacob stood on the other side there is a ruinated Church The House of Jacob. built in honour of St. John Baptist In this Town Travellers pay a Caffare Next day after an hour and an halfs travel you strike off the high Road to the right if you would see the Town of Sebaste standing upon a little Hill Sebaste about half a League wide of the Road where you still see great ruins of Walls and several Pillars both standing and lying upon the Ground with a fair large Church some of it still standing upon lovely Marble-Pillars The high Altar on the East end must have been very fine by what may be judged from the Dome which covers it and is still in order faced with Marble-Pillars whose Capitals are most Artfully fashioned and adorned with Mosaick Painting which was built by St. Helen as the People of the Country say This Church at present is divided into two parts of which the Mahometans hold the one and the Christians the other That which belongs to the Mahometans is paved with Marble The Sepulchre of St. John Baptist Elisha and Abdias and has a Chappel under Ground with three and twenty steps down to it In this Chappel St. John Baptist was Buried betwixt the Prophets Elisha and Abdias The three Tombs are raised four Spans high and enclosed with Walls so that they cannot be seen but through three openings a span big by Lamp-light which commonly burns there In the same place as they say St. John was put in Prison and Beheaded at the desire of Herodias Others say Macherus Samaria that it was at Macherus which is a Town and Fort where King Herod kept Malefactors in Prison This Town of Sebaste was also called Samaria from the name of Simri to whom the Ground whereon it is built belonged or from the name of the Hill on which it stands which is called Chomron Having pass'd Sebaste you are out of Samaria Genny which terminates there and pursuing your Journey you come to lodge at Genny They say that in this place our Saviour cured the ten Lepers There is a Mosque there still which was formerly a Church of the Christians the Han where you lodge is great and serves for a Fort having close by it a Fountain and a Bazar where Provisions are sold The Soil is fertile enough and produces plenty of Palm-Trees and Fig-Trees There is a very great Caffare to be payed there Next day after about two Hours march Ezdrellon you enter into a great Plain called Ezdrellon about four Leagues in length at the west end whereof you see the top of Mount Carmel where the Prophet Elias lived of which we shall speak hereafter At the foot of this Hill are the ruines of the City of Jezreel founded by Achab King of Israel where the Dogs licked the Blood of his Wife Jezebel Jezreel Brook Gison as the Prophet Elias had foretold In the middle of this Plain is the Brook of Gison where Jabin King of Canaan and Sisera his Lieutenant were slain by Deborah the Prophetess and Judge of Israel and by Barak chief of the Host of Gods People Many Battels have been fought in this Plain as may be seen in holy Scripture After you have passed this Plain and travelled an hour over Hills you come to Nazareth of which and the places that are to be seen about it I have already said enough Now I 'll set down the way from Nazareth to Damascus CHAP. LVII The Road from Nazareth to Damascus SUCH as would go to Damascus may lye at Aain Ettudgiar which is a Castle about three Leagues from Nazareth mentioned by me before in the fifty fifth Chapter and there is a Caffare to be paid there The next day you lye at Menia Menia Sephet by the Sea-side of Tiberias The day following you see from several places on the Road the Town of Sephet where Queen Esther was Born standing on a Hill. Josephs Pit. About four hours Journey from Menia you see the the Pit or Well of Joseph into which he was let down by his Brothers there is no water in it the mouth of it being very narrow but the bottom indifferent wide and may be six fathom deep It is covered by a Dome standing on four Arches to three of which so many little Marble-Pillars are joined as Butteresses for the Dome the place of the fourth Pillar is still to be seen and it appears to have been not long agoe removed Close by this Pit there is a little Mosque adjoining to an old Han. Two hours journey from that Pit you cross over Jacob's Bridge Jacobs Bridge Dgeseer Jacoub which the Arabs call Dgeser Jacoub this is the place where this Patriarch was met by his Brother Esau as he was returning with his Wives and Goods from Laban his Father in law The Bridge consists of three Arches under which runs the River of Jordan and falls afterwards into the Sea of Tiberias about three hours going from thence On that side the River runs there is a great Pond to be seen When you have passed this Bridge you are out of Galilee and there you pay a great Caffare Then you come to Lodge at Coneitra which is a little Village Coneitra wherein there is a very old large Han built in form of a Fort with three Culverines within the precinct of it there is a Mosque a Bazar and a Coffee-House Saxa and there also you pay a Caffare Next day you lye at Saxa and have bad way to it
the Countrey being so stony that it cannot be Cultivated Raimbe About mid way you find a Han built of black stones and called Raimbe over the Gate whereof there is a square Tower with four Windows after the manner of our Steeples Saxa is a pretty Han having a Mosque in the middle and a Fountain by the side of it Without it you see a little Castle near to which runs a River that divides itself into four and thirty Branches and there you find three Bridges where there is a Caffare to be paid The day following you come to Damascus seven hours traveling from Saxa but first about an hour and a halfs journey from Saxa you cross over a Bridge upon the River that comes from Saxa For the four first hours the way is stony after that betwixt two little Hills and on the right hand of a ruined Village called Caucab that is to say Star Caucab the place of St. Pauls Conversion is the place where our Lord said to St. Paul Saul Saul why Persecutest thou me The rest of the way is over most fertile Plains CHAP. LVIII Of the City of Damascus and the places that are to be seen about it THE first thing that may be seen at Damascus is the Bezestein Damascus which is Beautiful enough and hath three Gates from whence you go to the Castle which is all built of Stones cut in Diamond cut but it is not easie for Franks to enter it At first you come to a Court of Guard with several Arms hanging upon the Wall and two pieces of Ordnance each sixteen spans long About fifteen steps further is the Mint where the Jews Work. A little beyond that there is a Dome of no great Workmanship but supported by four so great Pillars that three men can hardly fathom one of them round Fifty paces from thence you enter through a large Arched Hall into the Divan where the Council is held painted with Gold and Azure after the Mosaick way and in it there are three Basons full of excellent water When you come out of the Castle you see the Ditches half a Pikes depth and twenty paces over wherein on the side of the Town a little Canal of water runs which waters the Gardens about that are full of Orange Limon Pomgranet and several other Trees Through the middle of the Castle runs a branch of the River with which they can fill the Ditches when there is occasion On the outside of the Walls of the same Castle hang two Chains of Stone one of which contains sixteen Links and the other fourteen cut one within another by matchless Art each Link being about two fathom long and one and a half wide and the two Chains are of one entire Stone a piece From thence you come to a fair Mosque about twenty Paces Square painted all over with Mosaick work in Gold and Azure and paved with Marble Melec Daer in the middle of it is the Sepulchre of Melec Daer Sultan of Aegypt After that you must see the House of the Tefterdar wherein there is a little Marble Mosque of most lovely Architecture and painted with Gold and Azure There are several lovely Rooms in it of the same fashion at each Window whereof you have a little Fountain of most clear Water which is artificially brought thither in Pipes In this House there is a door and several great Windows with copper-Lettices which look into the great Mosque and thence one may see without molestation but Christians are forbidden to enter it upon pain of Death or turning Turk From that door and the Windows one may perceive a great part of the Mosque which may be about three hundred paces long and threescore wide The Court is paved with lovely Stones most part of Marble shining like Lookin-glasses Round about this Court there are several Pillars of Marble porphyrie and Jasper incomparably well wrought which support an Arch that ranges all round painted with several pieces in Mosaick work The Porch of the Mosque faces this Court and the entry into it is by twelve large Copper-Doors embossed with Figures with several Pillars most part of Porphyrie whose Capitals are gilt The walls are painted with lovely figures in Gold and Azure The Turks themselves have so great a veneration for this place that they dare not pass through the Court without taking off their Pabouches and certainly 't is one of the loveliest Mosques in all the Turkish Empire It was heretofore a Christian Church built by the Emperour Heraclius in Honour of St. Zacharias the Father of St. John Baptist and they say there is a Sepulchre in it where the Bones of that holy Prophet rest You must also see the Fountain where St. Paul recovered his sight and was Baptized by Ananias which is in the Streight-street so called in the Acts of the Apostles under a Vault in the Bazar near to a thick Pillar called the Ancient Pillar then you go up to the House of that same Judas with whom St. Paul Sojourned to be instructed in the Christian Religion and Baptized there you see a great door armed with Iron and huge Nails within which is the Chamber where the said Saint Fasted three Days and three Nights After that you go out of the Town by a Gate called Bab cherki Bab Cherki That is to say East Gate near to which in former times there was a great Church built in honour of St. Paul but at present the Turks have made a Han of it the Steeple remains still and is very ancient Work. Continuing your way along the Town-Ditches and about fifty paces Southward from the said gate you see a great square Tower joining to the walls in the middle of which there are two Flowers de luce cut in Relief and well shaped and at the side of each of them a Lyon cut in the same manner Betwixt these Flowers de Luce there is a great Stone with an Inscription upon it in Turkish Characters About three hundred paces further you come to the Gate called Bab Kssa Bab Kssa that is walled up under which is the place where St. Paul was let down in a Basket to avoid the persecution of the Jews Sixty paces from thence over against the Gate The Porter St. George is the Sepulchre of St. George the Porter who had his Head struck off upon pretence that he was a Christian and had made St. Pauls escape The Christians of the Countrey reckon him a Saint and have commonly a Lamp burning upon his Tomb. Returning the same way back to the Town The House of Ananias you pass by the House of Ananias which is betwixt the East Gate and St. Thomas Gate and there you find fourteen steps down to a Grott which is the place where Ananias instructed St. Paul and taught him the Christian Doctrine And on the left hand is the hole but now stopp'd up by which Ananias went under ground to St. Paul
but they made me a present of one After we had seen these places we returned to the Convent about eleven of the Clock and having Dined on good fresh Fish Another Grott of Elias we went to see the Grotts of the holy Prophets Elias and Elisha that are near to the Convent there is also a third but it is full of Earth and the door walled up Lower down towards the foot of the Mountain is the Cave where the Prophet Elias taught the People it is all cut very smooth in the Rock both above and below it is about twenty paces in length fifteen in Breadth and very high and I think it is one of the lovliest Grotts that can be seen The Turks have made a little Mosque there Mount Carmel and all the Country about Emir Tharabe is commanded by a Prince named the Emir Tharabee who pays yearly to the Grand Signior a Tribute of twelve Horses Having thanked the Fathers for their Civility which we acknowledged by a charitable Gratuity we embarked again about four a clock in the Afternoon in the same Bark that had brought us and arrived at Acre about seven at Night CHAP. LX. The way from Acre to Soursayde Baruth Tripoly and Mount Libanus and from Tripoly to Aleppo with what is to be seen in these places I shall here make a little digression from my Travels and observe what is to be seen in those quarters The first night you leave Acre you Lodge at Sour about half way there is a Tower near the Sea where a Caffare must be paid About an hour and a half before you come to Sour a few steps from the Sea-side you find a Well of an octogone figure about fifteen foot in diameter which is so full of Water that one may reach it with the Hand and as they say they have often attempted to sound the depth of it with several Camels load of Rope but could never find the bottom It is taken to be the Well of Living Waters mentioned in the Canticles The Town of Sour is upon the Sea-side and was anciently called Tyre there it was that our Lord Cured the Canaanitish Womans Daughter There are lovely Antiquities to be seen in this place From Sour you have a days Journey to Sayde and there is a Tower upon this Road also where there is a Caffare to be paid Sayde is a pretty Town upon the Sea-side and the Ancient name of it was Sydon Before the Town there is a little Fort Built in the Sea. The Countrey about Sayde is lovely and full of Gardens among others there are two about two Musquet Shot from the Town The Sepulchre of Zebulon Baruth Gie. that are full of excellent Orange-Trees wherein they shew the Sepulchre of Zebulon one of the twelve Sons of Israel Next day you may go and lye at Baruth About an hours travelling from Sayde to Baruth there is to the right hand a Village called Gie with a great deal of Sand about it and they say that that is the place where the Whale cast out Jonas after he had been three days in the Belly of it There are two Caffares to be paid on that Road. The Soil about Baruth is pleasant and good bearing abundance of White Mulberry-Trees for the Silk-Worms Having next day travelled half a League from Baruth you see a Cave on the right hand which was heretofore the Den of a huge Dragon Two hundred paces further there is a Greek Church upon the same Ground as they say where St. George Killed that Dragon when it was about to have Devoured the Daughter of the King of Baruth Half an hours travelling from thence there is a Bridge called Baruth's Bridge of six Arches and there is a Caffare to be paid there About two hours Journey from that Bridge you find another under which runs a River called in Arabick Naor el Kelb that is to say the Dogs River without doubt because there is a Ring cut in the Rock to which is fastened a great Dog cut on the same Rock that is still to be seen in the Sea. They say that in times past that Dog Barked by Enchantment when any Fleet came and that his Bark was heard four Leagues off A little above the descent where the Dog is this Inscription is cut in great Characters upon the Rock IMP. CAES. M. AURELIUS ANTONINUS PIUS FELIX AUGUSTUS PART MARI BRITANNIUS At the end of this Bridge there is a Marble-Stone eleven Span long and five broad on which is an Inscription of six lines in Arabick Characters From thence you go and lodge at Abrahim The day following you lye at Tripoly by the way on the Sea-side Tripoly Gibel Patron Amphe you see the Towns of Gibel Patron and Amphe Tripoly is a very pretty Town with a neat Castle at the foot of which a little River runs several Gardens full of Orange-Trees and White-Mulberries encompass the Town which is a mile from the Sea where there are several Towers planted with Cannon to defend the Coast Here it was that St. Marina being accused of Incontinence did Penance in Mans Apparrel Next day you go to Mount Libanus Mount Libanus Cannobin about five Hours and a halfs travelling from Tripoly you come to Lodge at Cannobin which is a Village where the Patriarch of Mount Libanus Lives there is a Church and Monastery in it The day following you go to the Cedars which are an hour and a halfs going from Cannobin and you pass through a pretty Village called Eden which is about an hour from Cannobin Eden .. Twenty three Cedars in Mount Libanus It is a Foppery to say that if one reckon the Cedars of Mount Libanus twice he shall have a different number for in all great and small there is neither more nor less than twenty three of them All that Inhabit this Mountain are Maronite Christians Having seen Mount Libanus you come back to Tripoly from whence if you have a mind to go to Aleppo you must take the following Road from Tripoly French Castle Ama. you come to lodge at a Castle called the French Castle standing upon a high Hill which was Built in the time of Godfrey of Boulloin From thence you have a days Journey to Ama which was heretofore a fair large Town but at present is half ruined tho' it still contains some lovely Mosques and Houses Built of black and white Stones intermingled At the end of the Town there is a great Castle upon a Hill almost all ruined and uninhabited the Walls of it are very thick and high built of pretty black and white Stones disposed in several Figures and the little of them that remains shews their ancient Beauty The Gate of the Castle is adorned with Inscriptions in Arabick Letters and the entry into it is made like a Court of Guard. There is an Oratory on the South side of it like to those wherein the Turks say their Prayers There are several Grotts well
wrought in it and a great many Magazines which served formerly to hold Provisions and Amunition Assi or Orontes The River Assi or Orontes runs by the side of this Castle and fills the Ditches about it that are cut in the Rock and very deep It runs also through the whole Town where it turns eightteen great Wheels which raise the Water two Pikes height into Channels that lye upon great Arches and convey it not only to the Fountains of the Town but also without into the Gardens You must also see a Mosque that stands near the River and over against the Castle before the door of which there is a Pillar of most lovely Marble erected with the figures of Men Birds and other Animals very well cut in Demy Relief upon it In this Mosque there is a very pleasant Garden Marra full of Orange-Trees by the River-side From Ama you go and lodge at Marra which is a sorry Town commanded by a Sangiac and there is nothing in it worth the observing but the Han you lodge in which is covered all over with Lead and is very spacious being capable of Lodging eight hundred Men and their Horses with ease In the middle of this Han there is a Mosque with a lovely Fountain and a Well two and forty Fathom deep from the top to the Water is still to be seen there About sixscore Years ago that Han was Built by Mourab Chelebi great Tefterdar when he made the Pilgrimage of Mecha About fifty paces from thence there is another old Han half ruined having a door of Black Stone of one entire piece seven span long four and a half broad and a span thick on which two Crosses like those of Malta with Roses and other Figures are cut in Demy Relief From Marra you go and lye at Aleppo CHAP. LXI The Road fram Tripoly to Aleppo by Damascus THose who have never seen Damascus may go to it from Tripoly in three good days Journey and from thence to Aleppo by the way following From Damascus the first nights Lodging is at Cotaipha one half of the way thither is over most pleasant and fruitful Plains abounding with Fruit-Trees Olive-Trees and Vines and watered by seven little Rivers and several Brooks where you see by the way a great many Villages in the Countrey about to the number as the People of the Countrey say of above three hundred and fifty The rest of the way is very Barren and Mountainous Cotaipha A fair great Han. There is at Cotaipha the lovelyest Han that is to be seen in the whole Countrey In the middle of this Han there is a Fountain that discharges its water into a great Pond There is plenty of all things necessary therein and a thousand Men and Horse may be commodiously lodged in it About fourscore years since Sinan Basha the Grand Visier passing through that Countrey upon his way to Mecha and Hyemen caused it to be Built as you go into it you must pass through a great Square Court walled in like a Castle It hath two Gates one to the South and the other to the North upon each of which there are three Culverines mounted to defend the Place There is a Caffare to be paid there From Cotaipha the next Nights Lodging is at Nebk and upon the Road five hours travelling from Cotaipha you see an old Castle called Castel or Han el Arous that is to say the Brides Han standing in a very Barren place and environed by Mountains Nebk is Situated upon a little Hill at the foot of which are Gardens full of Fruit-Trees and watered by a small River over which there is a handsom Bridge of four Arches Next day when you have Travelled two Hours you pass by a Village called Cara which contains two Hans and a Greek Church Dedicated to the Honour of St. George For half a League round this Village there is nothing but Gardens full of Fruit-Trees watered by little Brooks Two Leagues from thence you find a Castle called Cosseitel and without the walls of it is a Fountain that runs into a Pond twenty paces long then you come to Lodge at Assia which is a Han for lodging of Travellers As you go to it you pass through a large Court walled in like a Fort having a very lovely Fountain in the middle which discharges its Water by four Pipes and at the Back of the Han there is a Spring of Water that fills a Pond From Assia you go next day to Hems About mid way you find a sorry Han Hems. called Chempsi Hems is a pretty Town indifferently big the Walls whereof are of black and white Stones and half a Pikes height almost all round fortified with little round Towers to the number of six and twenty formerly they were begirt with Ditches which at present are for the most part filled up with ruines This Town hath six Gates and there are five Churches in it The first is very great and is supported with four and thirty Marble-pillars most part Jaspirs it is threescore and ten paces long and eighteen broad Within on the South-side there is a little Chappel where you may see a Stone-Chest or Case set in the Wall five spans in length and three in breadth wherein the people of the Country not only Christians The Case wherein is the Head of St. John Baptist but Moors believe the head of St. John Baptist to be and therefore the Moors make great account of it and have commonly a Lamp burning before it They say that on certain days of the year some drops of Blood distill from that Case There are also many other long and round pieces of Marble built in the Wall inscribed with Greek Characters and very artfully engraven with Roses and other Figures St. Helen built that Church which was long possessed by the Christians of the Countrey but at length about an hundred and sixty years ago was usurped by the Turks and serves them at present for their chief Mosque the Roof that is supported by these Pillars has been lately renewed and is only of Wood ill put together Christians are suffered to enter into it By the side of it without there is a great Pond where the Turks make their Ablutions before they go into it At the door of this Mosque there are two Marble-Pillars twenty span long lying along upon the Ground From thence you go to another Church held by the Moors called St. George's the Christians of the Country may perform their Devotions there paying for half the Oyl that is consumed in it The third is dedicated to the Honour of our Lady and is possessed by the Christians of the Countrey Arbain Chouade The fourth is held by the Greeks and is called Arbaine Chouade which is to say forty Martyrs it is very neat supported by five Pillars whereof four are Marble and the fifth Porphyrie wrought and cut in the form of a Screw
The Sepulchre of St. Julian The fifth Church is called St. Merlian alias St. Julian the People of the Countrey say that his Body is there in a Sepulchre of most excellent Marble standing behind the Altar made like a Beer or Coffin with a high ridged cover At the four Corners there are four Balls of the same Marble and twelve Crosses round it in Demy Relief This Sepulchre is ten Spans long five broad and as much in height seeming to be all of one entire piece The Sepulchre of Caius Caesar the Nephew of Augustus Six hundred paces West-ward from the Gate called Bab Jeoundy that is to say the Jews Gate there is a Pretty big Pyramid wherein the People of the Countrey believe that Caius Caesar the Nephew of Augustus is buried Upon a Hill to the South of the Town there is a Castle built like that of Ama which I mentioned in the foregoing Chapter but it is not so ruinous though it be uninhabited as well as the other They say that heretofore both of them were held by the Christians who endured long and hard Sieges before they surrendred them to the Turks and that 's the reason that the Grand Signior has commanded that they should not be Repaired nor Inhabited The Han where Travellers lodge is fifteen paces without the Walls of the Town on the North-side from Hemps The next Lodging is at Ama. About half way there is a little Oratory which they say was built by the Franks it is at present Inhabited by a Moorish Scheik A little further there is a ruined Village upon a Hill. Near to that is the Han where Travellers that have a mind to stop there may Lodge After that you pass over a Bridge of ten Arches called Dgeser Rustan that is to say Rustans Bridge which is very neat and has the River Assi running underneath it I have said enough of Ama in the Chapter before The Country of Job Betwixt Hemps and Ama is the Countrey which the People that live there say was inhabited by Job and his Family but half of it is not Cultivated The day following you Lodge at Scheicon Han that is to say the Han Scheick it is a very old Han having on the Gate a Marble-Stone six spans long and four spans broad upon which are engraven six lines in Arabick Characters and on the two sides there are also two round stones of Marble Scheicon Hani upon each whereof there is a Chalice with its Paten very well Engraven From Scheicon Hani you go to Marra of which I have spoken in the preceeding Chapter Next day you go to Han Serakib Upon the Road you see some ruinous Villages whereof that which is most entire is called Han Mercy built in form of a Castle having four Towers in the four Corners three square and one round this Han is four Hours going from Marra and about twenty paces short of it on the left hand you see five great Sepulchres in one whereof a Basha is Interred having his Turban cut in Marble at one end of his Tomb. In an old Building fifteen paces distant from the Gate of that Han Serakib there is a Well almost square which is two and forty Fathom deep before you come at the Water as well as that of Marra about fourscore paces from thence there is a pitiful Village little Inhabited though there be good Land about it Han Touman Sermin From Han Serakib you have a days Journey to Han Touman Upon the Road to the left hand you see a pretty handsome Town called Sermin and three or four ruinous Villages having been forsaken because of the Robberies of the Arabs About forty Years since Han Touman was rebuilt by a Basha of Aleppo called Hisouf Basha who put into it an Aga with fifty Soldiers and ten little Culverines Singa to keep it against the Arabs who formerly committed frequent Robberies thereabouts The River of Aleppo called Singa runs hard by it and turns two Mills not far from thence From Han Touman you go to Aleppo in three or four Hours time CHAP. LXII Our setting out from Acre to Damiette and our meeting with Italian Corsairs From Acre to Damiette WE staid at Acre four days expecting a passage for Damiette but at length finding two Sanbiquers of Cyprus which were both bound for Damiette we resolved to go along with them and having sent for the Reys of that Sanbiquer that was a Greek Monsieur de Bricard the Consul took the pains to make a Bargain for us Sanbiquer and recommended us to him Sanbiquers are Vessels made like Galliotts but longer the Stern and Stem of them are made much alike only in the Poop there is a broad Room under Deck there are several Banks for Rowers according to the length of the Sanbiquer and each Oar is managed by two Men. Ours had twelve Oars on each side but besides it had a great Mast with a very large Sail so that being light Loaded no Galley could be too hard for one of them if their Oars were long enough but they have them very short The Wind offering fair for us we took our Provisions and went on board our Sanbiquer Sunday the nineteenth of May about three a Clock in the Afternoon the other Sanbiquer being in company with us We were much afraid of Corsairs still and especially of him who had taken us before not only because his Men had said That if they had killed us they would not have been obliged to make Restitution of any thing but also least they might have accused us of being the cause that the Turks had come out against them and so used us the worse for that However we met with nothing considerable till next day being Monday the twentieth of May that about Sun-setting we passed by a Tower about twelve Miles from Jaffa when we were come near to that Tower they fired some great and Small shot at us which much surprised us but more when we saw that they made great Fires all along the Coast and especially upon the Towers We knew not the cause of this which I shall tell hereafter only we concluded that they took us for Pirats When we came near to Jaffa we perceived a great Fire upon the Tower and then about nine a Clock at Night offering to put into the Harbour to take in Wood and Water they fired at us both great and small Shot Then our Reys went upon the Poop and called out as loud as he could that he was such a Man Reys of a Sanbiquer calling by Name those whom he knew at Jaffa but we had no other answer from within but Alarga that is to say that we should stand off and with that another Volley of great and small Shot When this Musick had lasted about an Hour they continually Firing and our Reys calling to them and making a heavy Noise the other Sanbiquer stood in nearer than we and
the Reys calling as loud as ever he could made them at length hear him and the Greeks who were at Jaffa to know him Then in stead of Alarga they called to us Taala which exceedingly rejoyced us and the meaning of that was that we should come in so that we entered the Port about ten a Clock at Night For my part I was afraid it might have been a Trick that so they might have easily sunk us when we were got nearer But it proved otherwise for we were received as Friends We found all the People in Arms ready to flie and the Women and Children were already gone from Jaffa Here we had the comfort to be pittied that we should have been Rifled even by Christians for they knew us as having been once before at Jaffa and had had intelligence of our being taken We stayed at Jaffa for fair Weather until Friday the four and twentieth of May when the Wind presenting we set out about Noon and within two or three Hours after were got out of sight of Land the Wind calming in the Evening we came to an Anchor and next Morning Saturday the five and twentieth of May by break of day we weighed and sailed upon a Wind about three or four a Clock in the Afternoon we made Land and standing in to it came to an Anchor at Sun-setting not being able to weather a Cape on head of us because the Wind was contrary Next day being Sunday the six and twentieth of May we weighed by break of day and presently made two Sail whereof the one seemed to be a Ship and the other a Galliot we rowed off from them as much as we could and at length after some hours lost sight of them but about Noon again we saw the Galliot a stern of us Our Consort ran presently ashoar and instead of doing the like we rowed and made all the sail we could so that in a short time we lost sight of the Galliot once more but making her again a little after we rowed again a little and so lost sight of her the third time At first when we made those Sails my mind misgave me that some Misfortune attended us and indeed I was an unlucky Prophet for I told the rest that as yet we were too far from Damiette to be taken and that as we had been already taken within ten Miles of Acre so we should be taken within ten Miles of Damiette Having then lost sight of that Galliot once more about six a Clock at Night we came to an Anchor at a place from whence we could see three Vessels riding at an Anchor also Our design was so soon as it should be Night and calm to endeavour to double a point of Land that we were not far short of and then we would have been pretty near Damiette and avoided that which befel us but our Company slept too long for Monday the seven and twentieth of May they turned out about two hours before day and having weighed Anchor made all the way they could with Sails and Oars but at break of day when we were not twenty miles from Damiette we saw two Cayques full of Men coming against us then would our Company have stood back again but it was too late And the Cayques making up with all speed a Turk who was a Passenger with us tied his bundle about his Neck and jumping over-board got quickly ashoar without the loss of any thing the rest whether it was that they could not Swim so well or that they hoped we might gain shoar before they could board us did not imitate him I had then some apprehensions that they as well as the Corsairs might discharge their choler upon us who were Franks But at length the Cayques being come within Musquet-shot of us all the Turks who were Passengers in our Sanbiquer leaped over-board to save themselves on shoar and the Greeks having fired the two Petreras they had did the same It pitied me much to see these poor People flie from their own House for so I call their Sanbiquer and to leave all their Goods to the Plunder and Discretion of those Mad-men carrying nothing with them but a Chaplet or two of certain Bisket which they sell strung upon Chaplets Presently one of the Caiques fired a Cros-bar Shot out of a Blunderbuss into our Poop Corsairs that were Franks which had it hit but a hands breadth lower would have killed us all and sunk the Sanbiquer to rights but seeing no body appear on board of us they made after those who were making their escape to shoar for being near land the water was very shallow which made the Soldiers finding ground to jump into the Sea with a Sword in one hand and a Pistol in the other and pursue the poor Wretches firing at those whom they could not overtake In the interim I prayed our Capucin and another French Monk that was with us to go up upon the Deck and put out a white Flag which they did and putting up a Handkerchief upon the end of a stick called in French to those who remained in the Caiques that we were French they bid us lower our Sail which we easily did but it was so great that we could not furl it In the mean time it covered all our Sanbiquer and they fearing there might be more still hid underneath durst not come but having told them that without their assistance they could not furl it and that they need not fear any thing they came on board where knowing us to be Franks they offered us not the least injury as the former had done only took of our baggage and things what they found here and there in the Vessel though we ourselves kept still a good share of them It was then a sad spectacle to see the Soldiers return loaded with Spoyl leading by the hand those whom they had taken a-shoar and who were all stript to the shirt as soon as they had been taken When they were come on board our Sanbiquir they search'd in all places to see if they could find any thing worth the taking and made Captive seven Turks in all Being all on board our Sanbiquer or in their own Caiques they carried us to their Ships and by the way told us how they had made us the evening before but that not having seen a Galliot which they had in company for two days they took our Sanbiquer for her till next morning when we stood close in by the shoar they were convinced it was not she and that if they had not taken us for their Galliot they would have given us a visite the same evening that they saw us CHAP. LXIII Of what happened on Board the Corsairs so long as we were with them and our Arrival at Damiette WIthin an hour we came on board the Corsairs being two Ships the one Commanded by Captain Santi called otherwise Ripuerto of Legorn and the other by Captain Nicolo of Zante We were made
King of Aethiopia to spend several days about that Fountain which is twelve days Journey from Gonthar the Capital City of Aethiopia This Spring sends its Water Northwards through a long tract of Land which having passed seven Cataracts or Falls that are very high places from which it falls plumb down making a roaring noise at every one of these Cascades and having run through all Aegypt it discharges itself into the Mediterranean Sea by the two mouths of Rossetto and Damiette Now the cause why Nile overflows so regularly in the Summer-time is only because when they have Summer in Aegypt it is Winter in Aethiopia where for three months time the Rain that continually falls running by Torrents into the main River makes it to swell extraordinarily and nevertheless there are no Mountains near to that Spring head for the Mountains that are nearest to it are the Jews Mountains whereof I shall make some mention hereafter and these are three Weeks Journey from it It is a Vulgar errour then that this River has its Source from an unknown place The source of the Nile is not unknown as also that those who live near the Cataracts of Nile are deaf and a greater still what some say that the Grand Signior pays Tribute to the King of Aethiopia to let the Nile run in its usual Channel for it is not in his power to divert it The Mountains of the Jews are but two in number of which the one is called Semain and the other Sallemt Semain Sallemt They were heretofore Inhabited by Jews who became powerful under the command of one called Ghidhon which the King of Aethiopia perceiving marched out against them reduced them to duty Ghidhon chief of the Jews and at length that they might attempt no Innovation for the future he dispossessed them of the Mountains and brought them down into a Plain Inhabited by Christians whom he sent into their Mountains on which there always lyes a great deal of Snow CHAP. LXX Of the Esine that was kept at Caire in my time IN the month of November there was an Esine kept at Caire that is to say Esine a publick Rejoicing because the Turks had taken two Castles in Hungary It was proclaim'd on the eighth of November after noon there being a man who cried it in every Quarter and the chief Cryer went in a Caftan to advertise the Beys and Consuls and got money in the Streets They Cried it for seven days to begin on Saturday the ninth of November at the hour of Evening Prayers though it used not to last above three days This Saturday morning the Guns were fired from the Castle which continued to be done every morning as long as the Esine lasted and then all fell to work before their doors the poorest Man that is being ready on such occasions to lay out somewhat on Lamps and Stuffs It is a very pleasant thing to be seen especially in the Night-time when one may go abroad with greater safety and freedom than in the day at any other time for by Lamp-light they cannot tell whether your Turban be white or of any other Colour and so they know not whether you be Christian or Turk All the streets are full of Lamp-lights but especially some wherein there are a vast number of Lights not only before the Gates but within the Houses of the Beys and other Persons of Quality Besides that the streets are hung with lovely Hangings of Cloath of Gold and other rich stuffs among others there are some Streets wherein all the Shops are hung with Cloath of Gold and rich silk Stuffs flowered with Gold. In many places also you may see pleasant figures of Christian Franks which to them is a great Diversion Besides the Tapistery and Lamps which are to be seen in the Houses of the Beys they make a shew also in the entry of all sorts of Arms and Armour as Head-pieces Corslets Coats of Mail Musquets Swords and Targets c. which are ranked in very good order The Consuls are likwise obliged to act their parts in the Solemnity though it were even a rejoycing for a Victory obtained by the Turks over their own Country else they would have an Avanie put upon them and therefore when they keep an Esinie for a Victory over the Venetians the Consul of Venice is obliged to do as others do if he had not rather pay the next day a swinging Avanie There they expose besides Lamps and Tapistry several excellent Pictures which the Turks look upon with a great deal of pleasure especially when it is some good Face thinking it impossible that we should have such Beauties in Christendom nay that there can be any such in the World. The Women came also being allowed then as at Bairam to go abroad and see the Festival yet not the great Ladies as those of the Basha's Beys and others of higher Quality but only those of an inferiour Condition This is very expensive to the Consuls and to all that would make any shew for besides some hundreds of Lamps and the Tapistry which must be hired it is the custom to treat all those who come to see what is before the House with Coffee and if they be People of Honour and Fashion they must give them Sorbet also nay and Sweet-meats too And for that end every Consul had before his House a piece of Tapistry hung out on each side of the Street and Hangings all round leaving only a Passage between under these kind of Pavillions on each side of the Street there were some hundreds of Lamps and a great many Pictures as likewise at the Avenues of the Street with Chairs and rich Cushions for those that come to see to sit on And no sooner did any come how mean soever he was but he had Coffee and Tobacco brought to him so that the Expence went high for betwixt morning early and three a Clock after Midnight many thousands of People came This Festival ended on Friday Morning the fifteenth of November so that the Esine lasted but six days though it had been cried for seven because the Inferiour sort of People were at too great Charges and got nothing for during that time no Man was suffered to Work. CHAP. LXXI Of the Desarts of St. Macharius The Journey to the Desarts of St. Macharius ONE should also see the Desarts of St. Macharius where there are four Monasteries to wit of St. Macharius the Syrians Balsarion and of our Lady I did not see them having still put it off from day to day However I will here give you a Relation of them which I got You must take Water at Boulac with a Janizary or two and fall down as far as a Village called Terrana where there is a Cachef to whom it will not be a miss to make some small present of Sweet-meats or the like that you may be the better protected by him Then the Janizaries wait upon the said
Cachef and inform him that their Company have a desire to go to the Desarts of St. Macharius Immediately the Cachef gives orders to two of his Men and to Arab Scheiks to make ready to attend the Travellers and provides Beasts to carry them For the price you must endeavour to agree as cheap as you can and it must be made in presence of the Cachef before you set out for if you delay till you come back they 'll exact the more The hire commonly for going and coming is two Piastres for each Horse or Camel and one Piastre for each Ass besides three or four Piastres for every Horse-man that accompanies you which pays both for Man and Horse Such as would spare Charges should at Caire strike in with one of the Monks of some of the Monasteries of the said Desart who will oblige himself to Conduct them thither and back again to Caire Dris and they are to go down the River with him to a Village called Dris where these Monks have a House There the Monk will do well to take with him an Arab that is known in the Mountain and every one being mounted on an Ass they may begin their Journey First They go to the Manastery of St. Macharius Monastery of St. Macharius a days Journey from Terrana and lies right West This is a very ancient Monastery the Walls are very high but it is much decaied There are many holy bodies in it but only one of these approved of by the Church of Rome to wit that of St. Macharius as also five or six Altar-Tables of lovely Marble Within the Precinct of this Monastery there is a kind of a big square Tower into which you enter by a Draw-bridge and wherein there is a Church a Well and all that is necessary for the Service of the Church and the sorry sustenance of the Religious who sometimes retreat into it For when they find themselve abused and pursued by stranger Arabs they betake themselves to this kind of strong Hold and pull up the Draw-bridge after them keeping there whatever they have of Value in the Monastery especially all their Books which they so esteem that no Monk dares to Sell or put out of the way any of them under the pain of Anathema In this manner all the three other Monasteries of which we shall speak hereafter have Towers in them This Monastery is the greatest but also the most ruinous and especially the Church that seems to have been very fair in times past There is no Garden belonging to it and the Water which the Monks drink is somewhat brackish From St. Macharius you go to another called Ambabichoye Ambabichoye lying Northward of the former three or four Hours journey only Upon the way thither you see a great many little Eminences or Risings about a step over which cut the way and reach far into the Western Desart The Religious say and find it Recorded in their Books which are very ancient that this Rising was made by Angels to serve for a path to the Hermites who many times lost their way when on Sundays they were coming to Mass in the Monastery and therefore they call it Tarik el Melaike that is to say the Angels Way Tarik el Malaike By the way also you see many old Walls which are the ruines of several Monasteries that heretofore have been there and as the Monks say to the number of three hundred round that Mountain but the Ruines which remain at present make it not appear that the number has been so great It is true one must not think that they have been perfect Monasteries but only little Houses built by Seculars who had a mind to retire into the Desart and lead a Religious Life there being obliged on Sundays and all Holy Days to come to Mass in the next Monastery there to assist at Divine Service And in that Monastery there was an Abbot with a certain number of residing Monks who when they had a mind to lead a more austere Life and were found to be sufficiently qualified for that by their Superiour were suffered by him to leave the Convent and go live more solitary further off in the Mountain where they built little Hermitages and there spent their lives in great Austerity Silence and continual Meditation and this is the account the Religious give It is not good to follow that Angels way nor to be too curious in asking questions of the Arabs about it for then they would presently conclude that you were come to the Mountain to search for some Treasure hid in it which they fancy the Franks know of Among these old buildings you see the ruines of a Monastery built in honour of St. John the Little and is called Juhhanna el Kasir where there is still a Dome and the dry Rod which being watered by that good Hermite at the command of his Superiour was changed into a fair Tree which is to be seen at this day as a monument of the merit of Obedience The Monks call this Tree Chadgeret el Taa that is to say Chadgeret el Taa the Tree of Obedience The Monastery of Ambabichoye is the pleasantest of all the four for it has a fair Church a lovely Garden and good Water with a big Tower in it as in that of St. Macharius There were a great many holy bodies therein which on Palm-Sunday in the Year 1656. were burnt by a spark that fell from a Taper that had been left burning there whereupon the Monks being vexed that they had lost their Saints gave it out that they had been carried away by a French Merchant who came into those Quarters to buy Natron But finding that the device would not take though it cost the Merchant Money for the Turks would not let slip that occasion they raised some dead bodies and brought them into their Church publishing that they were the bodies of their Saints which had escaped out of the French Ships and were come back to their Church From Ambabichoye you go to another Monastery The Monastery of the Syrians in the Desart of Macharius The Staff of St. Ephrem called the Monastery of the Syrians a quarter of a League distant from Ambabichoye it is but small but very pleasant has good Water and is the best in order of all There you see two fair Churches one for the Syrians and another for the Cophtes in which are many Relicks In this last is the Staff of St. Ephrem who being come to visit another Hermite and having left his Staff at the Door whilst he was in discourse with the other whom he came to see his Staff took root and blossomed and is now a lovely great Tree and the only in Aegypt of its kind From the Monastery of the Syrians you go to the Mountain of the Eagles Stones and by the way you see the dry Sea which was dried up as the Monks say at the
Breast or at his Head or Shoulders they lift him up and plant this Stake very streight in the Ground upon which they leave him so exposed for a day One day I saw a Man upon the Pale who was Sentenced to continue so for three Hours alive and that he might not die too soon the Stake was not thrust up far enough to come out at any part of his Body and they also put a stay or rest upon the Pale to hinder the weight of his body from making him sink down upon it or the point of it from piercing him through which would have presently killed him In this manner he was left for some Hours during which time he spoke and turning from one side to another prayed those that passed by to kill him making a thousand wry Mouths and Faces because of the pain he suffered when he stirred himself but after Dinner the Basha sent one to dispatch him which was easily done by making the point of the Stake come out at his Breast and then he was left till next Morning when he was taken down because he stunk horridly Some have lived upon the Pale until the third day and have in the mean while smoaked Tobacco when it was given them This poor wretch carried the Scales and Weights of those who go about to visit the Weights to see if they be just and he had so combined with such as had false Weights that he brought false ones also with him so that the Searchers not perceiving the change of their own Weights thought the other to be just When Arabs or such other Robbers are carried to be Empaled they put them on a Camel their Hands tied behind their Backs and with a Knife make great gashes in their naked Arms thrusting into them Candles of Pitch and Rosin which they light to make the stuff run into their Flesh and yet some of these Rogues go chearfully to Death glorying as it were that they could deserve it and saying That if they had not been brave Men they would not have been so put to death This is a very common and ordinary Punishment in Aegypt but in Turkie it is but very rarely put into practice The Natives of the Country are punished in this manner but the Turks are strangled in Prison CHAP. LXXX Of the Inconveniencies and Ordinary Distempers at Caire Ordinary Inconveniencies that happen at Caire Heat in Egypt Drink in Egypt THE first Inconvenience to be felt at Caire is the excessive Heat which is so intolerable that one can scarcely do any thing and what is worse there is no sleeping hardly there in Summer For when you go to Bed you 'll find the Sheets full of Sand and so hot that I think they could not be more after long warming with a Warming-pan What you drink there is commonly as hot as your Blood for you must not think of Ice Snow or a Well there all that can be done is to put the Water into certain Pots of a white Earth that Transpires much and leave them abroad in the Night-time having done so the Water is indeed pretty cold in the Morning but in the Day-time they put those Pots in Windows which receive any little breeze and there the Water cools a little or at least loses somewhat of its heat and it is a great happiness in that Country to have a Window that lies well for a breeze and a Bardaque or Pot that is Transpirable Besides these Inconveniencies there is that of little Flies or Musketto's which I reckon the greatest of all No Man can believe but he who hath felt it by Experience how uneasie and troublesome these Insects are in Aegypt there are always swarms of them buzzing about People and continually pricking of them so that they make themselves fat and plump with Man's Blood. There is no other remedy against these Gnats but to have a very fine Cloth all round your Bed which shuts very close and for all that some always get in when you go to lie down A pain in the Stomach is very common in that Country and all New-comers are subject unto it who finding themselves in a hot Countrey leave their Breast and Stomach open and will not take Counsel Nevertheless the Air which is subtile and penetrating chills their Bowels and causes dangerous Fevers and Bloody-Fluxes especially in Autumn when the Nile overflows and therefore one must always keep the Stomach warm and well covered There is another Distemper that reigns there also and that is a swelling of the Scrotum and to some I may speak without Exaggerating their Cods swell bigger than their Head which is occasioned by the Water of the Nile and I my self was troubled a little with it for the space of eight days but then it went away of it self To cure this Distemper they make Incision with a Lancet in the swelled Scrotum and let out the Water that is got into it Sore Eyes are very common there and very dangerous in the Summer-time that is caused by the burning heat of the Sun which reflects from the Ground upon the Eyes and scorches them as also from the Dust which is very subtile and salt and is blown into the Eyes by the Wind which is the reason that there are many blind in that Country Whilst I was in Aegypt a French Merchant lost an Eye so and I have known other French troubled with that Distemper who for a fortnight or three Weeks could not sleep because of the sharp pain they felt which made them cry out and roar both Night and Day In the Summer-time you hardly see any abroad in the Streets but who are afflicted with that evil and carry pieces of blew Stuff before their Eyes and certainly you shall find nine of ten whom you meet with such defensives before their Eyes Every one threatned me with that Distemper and yet thanks be to God I never had the least touch of it perhaps I took care to prevent it because in that bad Season every Morning and Evening I washed my Eyes with fair Water and when I returned from Abroad I did the like to wash out any Sand that might have got into them Pains in the Legs are very bad at Caire and a great many have their Legs swollen to a prodigious bigness There is also another Distemper or rather inconvenience for it is more uneasie than dangerous which happens when the Water of the Nile begins to rise there is a kind of Inflammation or Wild-fire that runs over the whole Body which exceedingly torments People by its pricking and stinging and when you drink to ease and refresh your self whilst you are drinking and after you feel such sharp prickings that you would think there were an hundred Needles stuck into you all at once the Provencials call that Des Arelles and it is an Inconvenience that lasts almost three Months Arelles In March 1658. after some days of high Winds a certain Distemper broke out
consisted not in Hair and that therefore he should suffer it to be cut off Then he sent for his Wife to Tunis she being with Child but he had much ado to preserve his Servants liberty for the Dey and Aga of the Divan would have had them made Slaves nevertheless they retained both their Liberty and Religion Two years after he would have sent his Wife back again into Christendom but they would not suffer him however after many difficulties she went away attended by a Servant of the Princes leaving a Son behind her and came to Genoa where she put her self into a Nunnery and hath since continued Now Don Philippo having been Disinherited by his Father had nothing to Live on but what he had from his Mother who is very fond of him Nor is he put into any Place because they still believe him to be a Christian there being none great nor small in Tunis but knew him by the name of Don Philippo for my part the first time I went to his House when I was at Tunis having asked for the House of Don Philippo every body told me the way to it Now to dispossess them of the belief they have that he is still a Christian at Heart he resolved some years after his return to undertake the Pilgrimage of Mecha and so wheadled a Brother of his own that he engaged him in the Journey who bore Don Philippo's Charges and his Sons whom he took with him So soon as he came to Caire he made acquaintance with the Franks and then hired a House in the quarter of the French where he came two or three times a week to drink Wine and make merry with the Franks and the time being come that the Caravan parts for Mecha he travelled thither in company of the Megrebins and upon his return the occasion of this English Ship presenting he resolved to return by Sea to Tunis This Prince is a tall and handsome well shaped Man and was not then above thirty years of Age he has a great deal of wit and speaks Italian and Spanish naturally well He is a lover of Musick and therefore has several Slaves who played some on the Harp others on the Flute and Lute His Son was then a little Boy about seven years old handsome and witty like his Father This same Don Philippo for all he is so poor makes his Brothers so stand in fear of him that there is none of them dares to look him in the Face CHAP. LXXXIV Our Voyage from Caire to Alexandria What the Hhouames are FRiday the third of January 1659. I parted from Caire and embarking at the Gissiere which is a pleasant place upon the side of the Nile where many go to divert themselves and where our Boat stayed for us with a fair wind we sailed as far as Tono which is half way from Caire to Rossetto Some hours after we parted from Caire we met the Boat of Don Philippo which we Saluted with some Volleys of our Fowling-pieces We arrived at Tono Saturday the fourth of January after Midnight Tono but there the Wind turned contrary which put us to a great deal of trouble and a main Rope of our Tackle breaking we had almost been cast away Boat and all but having quickly recovered it out of the Water and re-fitted it with all haste we continued our course making still a little way though the wind was full against us at length perceiving that the Wind was like to continue so we put a-shoar at Derout Tuesday morning the seventh of January and went by Land to Rossetto six hours Journey distant from Derout Derout we arrived the same day Tuesday the seventh of January at Rossetto Upon the way from Caire to Rossetto there are some pretty Towns which I had not observed as I went from Rossetto to Caire as Foa Sewdion Derout Foa Sewdion and some others We stayed for our Boat wherein our luggage was at Rossetto where it arrived on Wednesday morning the eighth of January and Thursday the ninth we parted from Rossetto about two a Clock in the Morning Betwixt Rossetto and the Sea-side there are eleven Pillars fixed in the Ground and a Palm-Tree at some hundreds of Paces distant one from another they are put there to mark the way because it is a Desart and besides the ways most commonly are covered with Rain-water and if a Man should miss his way in that Desart it would take him above a day to find it again We followed then these marks by Moon-light and being got to the Sea-side came to Casa Rossa Casa Rossa Media which is half way betwixt Rossetto and Media where we arrived about three hours after day Media is above half way from Rossetto to Alexandria Having rested there about an hour we crossed over in the Ferry-boat paying a Maidin for our House-room and passage and after we had travelled a good way about two a clock in the Afternoon we came to Alexandria twelve hours Journey distant from Rossetto betwixt which two Towns there is no other Inn but Media where you have nothing but Water and House-room so that what you eat and drink you must carry with you From Caire to Alexandria it is about an hundred and fifty miles by Land which is commonly travelled in three days because they travel day and night resting a little in the Morning and Afternoon I saw nothing in Alexandria but what I had seen the time before when I was there only they shewed me a Hhouame Hhouames and told me that these Hhouames are a sort of Vagabond People among the Arabs who lodge as they do under Tents but have a certain particular Law to themselves for every night they perform their Prayers and Ceremonies under a Tent without any Light and then lye with the first they meet whether it be Father Mother Sister or Brother and this is far worse than the Religion of the Adamites These People though sculk and keep private in the City for if they be known to be Hhouames they are Burned Alive CHAP. LXXXV Our arrival at Bouquer a Ship cast away in the Port of Alexandria A description of Bouquer I Stayed at Alexandria till the Ship was ready whereof the Purser having given us notice we sent away our Goods and Provisions which we had prepared before hand for one must not delay those preparations till the Ship be just ready to sail When a man is alone it is no bad way to agree with the Captain for Diet especially with the English who treat well but besides that one must still have some small provision for himself in private For our parts being five in company to wit three Marseillese my self and my man we provided all things for ourselves We took Boat then on Thursday the thirtieth of January to go on board the Ship which was at Bouquer but not before we and our Goods had been searched at the Custome-house where we were encompassed
themselves insupportable to all People forcing all the Women and Boys they meet with so that if a Dey would have his Son to succeed him he must get him made Dey in his own Life-time The Aga of the Customes at Tunis Gillet They have at Tunis also an Aga of the Customes who has a vast Revenue and is a man of great Authority The Moors of Barbary are not altogether Apparrelled like the Turks for instead of a Doliman and a Vest they wear a Wastecoat which they call Gillet and over it a Justacors which reaches down to the knee girt about with a large Girdle on their head they wear a Fez-cap shaped like a Bell and a thick Turban round it They are all Apparrelled after this manner except some Officers as for instance there are six Chiaoux's of Justice who wear a sharp pointed Cap with a Turban about it and a kind of Hanging-sleeve that is interlaced with it behind their back the Oda Bashas go much after the same manner but there is this difference that their Hanging-sleeve ends as it were in a pair of Horns They have no Janizaries but men of pay and generally all Renegadoes so that Italian is very commonly spoken at Tunis and if a Christian would say any thing that he would not have known he should not speak French neither for he might easily be understood and pay dear for it CHAP. LXXXXIII Of the Punishments which are in Vse at Tunis THE Punishments used at Tunis differ according to the quality of the Persons When a Turk in pay deserves Death he is Executed in a Chamber and not Publickly They make him sit down in a Chair and two Christian Slaves pulling each an end of a Cord that is put about his Neck quickly strangle him The Turks of mean condition or Moors are Hanged upon the outside of the Walls they set them upon the Wall put about their Neck a Halter made fast in a hole purposely made in the Wall and then pushing them down they are also soon dispatched As for Maids or Women that have deserved Death they choak them in the Oaze by the Sea-side putting their Head into it and a Man setting his Foot upon their Neck They have other very cruel Punishments for the Renegadoes that turn Christians again They wrap them up in Pitched Cloth put a Cap of the same upon their Head and then make a Fire round them Or otherwise they put them to a crueller Death For they wall them up so that there is nothing but their Head without the Wall and having rubbed over their Head and Face with Honey leave them so exposed for three days and as many nights to the discretion of the Flies which pain them to Death within less time The Slaves are punished with Bastonadoes or they cut off their Ears or Nose according to the quality of the Offence But if a Slave kill his Master or any other Turk they break his Legs and Arms then tie him to a Horses Tail and after they have dragged him so about the Town strangle him giving the Body to the Franks to be Buried but most commonly the Boys take him from the Executioner as they did a French Man a little before I came to Tunis for there are no wickeder Boys in the World than in that Town They snatcht that dead Body out of the Executioners hands in spight of the Mezoar Mezoar who is the Officer whom in Turky they call the Sous-basha and having dragged him about for some time longer they Roasted him a little with Straw which they kindled under him and then threw him into the Ditch out of which the French afterwards took him and buried him in their Burying Place called St. Anthony for the English have one by themselves When I was at Tunis the Franks lived severally in the Houses which they Hired but they were a Building a pretty commodious Oquele where they must all Lodge with their Consuls as in other places of the Levant CHAP. LXXXXIV Our Departure from Goletta and the Continuation of our Voyage AT length our Captain having done all his Business and the Wind offering fair it was time for us to leave Tunis We parted from thence on Wednesday the six and twentieth of March Carthage about eleven a Clock in the Morning and went by Land on Horse-back that we might see somewhat of Carthage We went close by the Ruines of it which are above three Leagues from Tunis and there saw the remains of stately Aqueducts which conveyed water from Zagouan to Carthage many of the Arches whereof are still standin the Road to the Cantre as we said before The Ruines of Carthage signifie but little being only heaps of Stones and some places under Ground where there are great Cisterns nay from these Ruines they daily carry away Marble and other Stones for their Buildings in Tunis and the Country Houses about We came to the Sea-side about three a Clock in the Afternoon and being got on board we stayed still there all that day because our Captain had some Business to do with him that Commanded at Goletta concerning the dues that he is to have from every Ship. Next morning Thursday the seven and twentieth of March we set sail with a good South-east Wind steering away North-north-west but about Noon the Wind slackened a little and the night following it turned Northerly which made us put back again to the Road of Goletta where we arrived on Friday the twenty eighth of March about ten a Clock in the morning Saturday the nine and twentieth of March the Wind veered about to North-east and the night following we had all sorts of Winds At length Sunday the thirtieth of March we had a gentle Gale from South-west and an hour after day we set sail steering our course North but about ten a Clock we were becalmed and about Noon it blew a breez from North which within an hour after changed to North-east and an hour after that to East so that we still kept on our Course Two hours within Night the Wind turned South-south-west and we stood away North-north-east Monday morning the one and thirtieth of March we were becalmed and continued so till Tuesday the first of April when about ten a Clock in the Morning we had a small Gale from North-west and we steered away West towards Sardinia In the Evening two hours after Sun-set the Wind turned Easterly and we stood our Course again North-north-east in the night-time we had a calm which lasted all next day Wednesday the second of April However it always blew a little breez sometimes one way sometimes another though the Sea was still smooth and calm In the Evening from the Maintop head we made a Sail off of Sardinia which followed its Course as we did ours Northward with a gentle Gale from East We were becalmed in the night-time and continued so till next day the third of April when about nine in the morning it blew a
So soon as we were on board she made sail with a North-Wind and steered a course South-South-West about six a clock at night the Wind chopped about to North-West Capraia Elbe and we passed betwixt Capraia and the Elbe in the night-time the Wind blew very fresh Monte Christo Corsica Next morning we were got an hundred and fourscore miles from Legorn and saw Monte Christo a great way a-stern of us we coasted along the Island of Corsica and because we were too near Land about ten of the clock in the morning we stood away South-South-East the Wind slackening much All that day we had Sardinia to the Star-board Sardinia but at a pretty good distance In the beginning of the Night the Wind blew a little fresher but far less than the Night before Saturday morning the six and twentieth we had lost sight of Sardinia and being fair before the Wind so that no Sails but the Main and Main-Top-Sails could bear we put out our Stutting Sails About noon the Wind shifted about to the North and two hours after to the North-East and therefore we took in our Stutting Sails and kept on our course South-South-East In the evening the Wind abated so that all night long we were becalmed Maretimo Next day being Sunday we made the Island of Maretimo a-head and about eleven a clock in the morning we stood away South-East about two a clock afternoon we made a Sail a great way off to the Leeward all that day we had a Calm till night when the Wind blew so fresh again that about midnight we past betwixt Maretimo Levanzo Favignane Levanzo and La Favignane leaving the first of these Islands to the Star-board and the other two to the Larboard then we steered away East South-East shortly after the Wind so slackned that we were becalmed Sicily Capo Boco Marsala Munday morning about break of day we were got very near the Land of Sicily to the Wind-ward of Capo Boco over against Marsala it is five hundred miles from Legorn We made still some way in our course East-South-East notwithstanding the Calm which lasted till noon when the Wind blowing fresher we coasted along Sicily pretty near the Shoar about four a clock afternoon the Wind encreasing a little we stood away South-South-East and this fair weather beginning with the New Moon made the Captain repent that he had not passed through the Phare of Messina Phare of Messina which would have saved him fifty miles in his course but then he told me that he durst not venture through so dangerous a passage in the Winter-time when Storms are so frequent and the rather about New Moon when commonly the VVinds change Towards the evening we were becalmed and had a breeze again in the beginning of the night and in that manner the Wind fell and rose several times during the night That day Murenes we took two Murenes or Sea-Eeles which were in the Fisher mens Wells this Fish is dainty Food but the Skin of it is Slimey and is so full of small bones that if one have not a care he may be choaked by them it is shaped like a common Eele and dies so soon as it is out of the Water Tuesday a very fresh East-North-East Wind rose with the Sun and we continued our course South-South-East about ten of the clock in the morning the Wind ceased and left us in a Calm over against Monte Gibello Monte Gibello which we saw so plainly that we could easily perceive it was covered with Snow A little after we made a Ship on head but because it stood in to Shoar we thought they were afraid of us The Calm lasted till night during which we had sometimes Breezes of Wind and sometimes Calms with which we made a little way Wednesday morning we were got in sight of Malta Malta seven hundred miles from Legorn and about two hundred from Sicily which we had not yet lost sight of He that looked out made a Sail towards Malta At first we were in a dead Calm but a little after we had a very great Sea from the West which tossed us sufficiently though there was not a breath of Wind we therefore furled our Sails and that rowling Sea lasted till one of the clock at noon when there arose a gentle North-North-East-Breeze which made us spread our Sails and stand away East-South-East that we might make Candie Candie seven hundred miles from Malta That Wind lasted not above an hour so that we were becalmed till about eleven a clock at night when we had a stiff North Gale with which we still continued our course East-South East That fresh Gale lasted all Thursday till night and then we had a strong gust of Wind with some Rain when that was over we had fair weather the Sea becoming Calm in a moment though before the Rain it was exceeding rough but half an hour after the weather and Sea began to grow rougher than before and then Calmed again which happened twice that night During these gusts the Sea was so rough that it was not possible to stand upright in any place of the Ship so strangely was she tossed because of a rowling Sea that came upon us on poop and on both sides the roughness of the Sea in poop was occasioned by the violence of the Wind and on the Star-board by the currents of the Gulf of Venice off of which we were Gulf of Venice and nevertheless we made betwixt eight and ten miles an hour About midnight it blew fresh from North-West with which we bore away East and by South that we might not stand too far off of the Gozo of Candie That Wind lasted all Friday the first of February Gozo of Candie about night we had smoother Water the Sea on poop only remaining which with the Wind that shifted about to the West and blew fresh made us run above twelve miles an hour but about ten a clock at night we had a swelling Sea again which made us rowl all night long Next day we were troubled with the same weather and strong gusts of Wind by fits About night since we had not made the Land of Candie as we expected by reason of the cloudy dark day it was consulted what course we should steer every one brought forth his observations and all agreed in general that our course was to the Windward of the Gozo of Candie but because one amongst them according to his account set off our course betwixt Candie and the Gozo though it was known he was in a mistake seeing according to his own account we must then have been very near and almost upon the said Gozo nevertheless for greater security it was thought fit to spare Sail and therefore all the Sails except the fore-Sail were furled and the Ships head turned due East-South-East least we might run too near the Shoar the Watch looking out sharp all night
long during which the Wind was very high and stormy which exceedingly tossed us Sunday about break of day we tacked about and stood North East that we might make Candie after two hours sailing the Seamen made something dark on head which they believed to be the Land of Candie we steered our course that way all day long but could not make it plain because of Clouds We continued the same course still till eleven of the clock at night and then began to tack and beat to and again that we might bear in with the Land of Candie It blew very hard all that night and we had a violent storm Munday by break of day we had the Wind at North which being quite contrary for Candie made us resolve to quit our design of standing towards that Island which we had made but very obscurely and to bear away towards Alexandria in Egypt The distance of Candie from Alexandria four hundred miles distant from Candie and therefore we steered our course South-East Towards Evening the Wind abated and we were becalmed until Tuesday Morning when there blew a gentle breeze from South-East which made us turn the ship's head towards the North we were obliged to keep so upon tacks that we might not over shoot Alexandria from which we were not above two hundred fourscore and ten miles Then did every one blame and curse the Sea-man whose errour was the cause that we were not in the Port of Alexandria About six a Clock at Night we tacked about and stood away South-South-West it blew so hard that our Vessel shipped the Sea on both sides one after another Wednesday Morning February the sixth the Wind was so violent that we were afraid we should sail our Masts because the Stays were very slack being loosened by the force of the Wind the day before the Stay is a great Cable that holds the Mastraunt each Mast has one the main Stay which is the biggest is made fast one end to the ship's head and the other to the round top of the main Mast To prevent that disaster all the Sails were furled the ship's head turned North-East and a quarter of an hour after the Stayes being well bent we bore away West-South-West with the missen and foresail the Wind being a little fallen after dinner we spread the main Sail and about six a Clock at Night having tacked about we stood East-North-East the Wind then slackening more and more Thursday Morning we were almost becalmed but about ten of the Clock a South-East Wind blowing again we tacked and bore away South-South-West about six a Clock at Night we tacked again and stood East-North-East Friday about two or three of the Clock in the Morning immediately after the Moon was set the South-East Wind ceased and the so much desired West and North Wind came in place of it which made us turn the ship's head South-East and make all the sail we could but we made but little way for all that the Wind being so easie that it was almost a calm It continued so till about five of the Clock at Night and then the Wind changed to North-West but was so easie that the Sea was very smooth about ten a Clock at Night the Wind chopping about to the North-West in five or six hours time we made a great deal of way there being very little or no Sea going but the Wind freshened afterwards and then we spared sail that we might not run to the Lee-ward of Alexandria the ship's head in the mean time lying still South-East Saturday Morning the Weather was very hazy and a little after we were almost in a calm About eleven a Clock he that looked out made a sail and shortly after another which were known to be Saicks coming from Egypt About two a Clock after Noon the Wind turned South-East and we stood away North-East an hour after it shifted about to the North-East again but was so easie that the Sea was smooth and we steered our course South a few minutes after it turned South-East again but so gentle that the Sea was as smooth as a Looking-glass We sailed South-South-West till six at Night when having tacked we stood away East-North-East About midnight the Wind turned West-South-West and we steered our course South-South-East after an hours sailing we found the Water to be whitish which made us think we were not far from Egypt The Land of Egypt that being the onely mark that can be had for the Land is so low that one cannot make it till he be just upon it especially when it is dark as it was then and that whiteness is occasioned by the Nile which carries it a great way into the Sea. Sunday the tenth of February about break of day it was thought we had seen the Light of Alexandria but it proved onely to be a Saick and because we were apprehensive that we were to the Lee-ward of Alexandria about nine in the morning we tacked about and stood North-West and about three a Clock after Noon tacked again and bore away South-West we had afterwards several Flurries that brought great showers of rain with them which were soon over About five in the Evening the Wind turned West-North-West and we tacked about that we might get to the windward of Alexandria from which we were still about an hundred and ten Miles distant and therefore we bore away North. In this manner we plied to and again against our will and it was our misfortune that we knew not where we were onely because we had not made the Island of Candie An errour of calculation in the sailing from whence with that Wind we might easily have come to Alexandria in two Days and one Nights time and the reason why we made it not plainly was that the Ship had run two hundred Miles more than we had reckoned and that when we thought our selves to be at the beginning of Candie we were almost quite past it as we since observed The Wind blew hard and we had several gusts in the Night time We held on the same course still untill Munday when about eleven a Clock in the Fore-noon we tacked and bore away South-West In the Evening the Moon three hours after the full was eclipsed I cannot tell at what hour that Eclipse began of how many parts it was nor how long it continued because she rose overcast with Clouds so that we could not see her but when she was coming out of the Eclipse as near as I could guess she had then been up near an hour and the Sun had not been set half an hour at which time she was almost half eclipsed The Eclipse decreased from the time we perceived it and ended half an hour after The Almanacks of Marseilles foretold it to be very great about two or three a Clock after Noon and by consequence affirmed that it could not be seen In the Night the Wind abated much and so did the Sea which in the
off their Course by and when I asked them where we were they made me answer that they could not tell after so much tacking At every turn they said to me Allah Kerim that 's to say God is great telling me with all that once they had made that Voyage being but one Night out at Sea. Amongst them there was no distinction of Master they jeered and abused one another openly and no body could hinder it The Reis never commanded any thing to be done but with tears almost in his Eyes and stamping with his foot like a Child so that we seemed to be utterly lost and indeed they all made a fool of him and imitating his voice bid one another do what he ordered without stirring in the least In short I believe these Blades had never been at Sea in a storm going and coming commonly as they told me in fair Weather Tuesday and all Wednesday almost we had successively East and South-East Winds which made us bear away North-North-East at length on Wednesday about ten of the Clock at Night the Wind turned Westerly and we bore away East-North-East Next day being exactly mid-lent the same Wind blew tempestuously and the Sea being very rough we rowled so as every moment we were like to be overset The sky was extremely overcast on all hands and amongst other fierce gusts which we met with from time to time we had one about half an hour after five in the Evening wherein we had like to have been cast away Seeing these lazy Lubbards saw it a coming they took the pains to furle the main sail and left none abroad but the sprit-sail whilst that storm lasted we were darkned as if we had been under some great Vault it lasted almost half an hour with great violence and in the mean time all were very silent To what hand soever we looked we saw nothing but stormy Clouds and this was still following us nevertheless when it was almost spent we made Mount Carmel Mount Carmel Acre Immediately we bore away East and sailed with VVind in poop towards Acre but having no more but about half an hour of day and it being impossible all the diligence we could use to come up with it before it were an hour after Night we tacked about and stood North for fear of running a ground In the Night-time we had many furious gusts and a great deal of Lightning A little before that great storme I have been mentioning fell we saw about two hundred paces from us a Flock of little red Birds flying Red Birds I thought at first that the reflexion of the Sun made them look to be of that Colour but seeing it continued so long as they were in sight and that the Sun was overcast I concluded that it must be their natural Colour Friday morning the two and twentieth of March we had still several Flurries however the Weather clearing up a little we steered our course East-North-East and about Noon passed by Saide in our way to Baruth which is twenty miles distant from it Baruth But when we were near the Cape of Baruth the Wind chopping about to North-West we were forced to tack about and stand away South-South-West that we might put in to Saide since we could not get to Baruth and that was lucky for us for we were told at Saide that there was a Corsair about Baruth into whose hands we must have fallen if we had continued our course that way So soon as I came a-shore the Customer who was in his Office called me to him and having asked me who I was I told him I was a Franck which he would not believe untill a Turk who understood Italian having asked me what I was and I answered him in the same Language that I was a Frenchman he acquainted the Officer of the Custome-house with it I went and lodged at the house of the Chevalier D' Ervieu who made me very welcome and took the pains himself to go and see my rhings brought a shore which he cleared at the Custome-house without any cost to me I received so many Civilities from him during my stay in that Town that I wish I were able to publish all the World over that he is one of the most gallant and obliging Gentlemen living Saide is a small Town very ill built Saide having a good Castle standing upon a Rock in the Sea opposite to the Town it is an Island and separated from the Land by a Bridge of ten or twelve Arches The Port which is at the side of that Castle is inconsiderable and there is another better close by the Town But the Emir Eecardin being one day at Saide and fearing that the Galleys which came for the Grand Seignior's money might serve him some ugly trick he caused the Entry of it to be stopt up to the end the incommodiousness of the other Port might oblige them to hasten their departure A few steps from thence in a Garden there is a little Chappel in which there is a Tomb with two Stones erected over it the People of the Countrey say it is the Sepulchre of Zebulon and that the distance of the two Stones shews the length of his Body if it be so he must have been a very proper man for these Stones are about ten foot distant one from another It is but three years since there was a Basha at Saide formerly it was governed by a Vaivode but the Sangiacat of Sefet hath been annexed to Saide and its dependances and both together erected into a Bashaship The day that I departed I saw the Basha enter the Town he was attended by about three hundred Horse-men well mounted and armed some with Carabines and others with Bows Arrows and Buckler and all with a shable by their side in the rear of the company there were a great many Players on Tymbrels Hoboys and such like Instruments amongst the rest one kept time by knocking two little Plates of Copper one against another The chief Traffick of Saide consists in Silk and therefore there is abundance of Mulberry-trees in the Fields about and so soon as they can get but a little piece of a Rock if they can make two fingers breadth of Earth hold upon it there they plant a Mulberry-tree at Saide I bargained with a Moucre or Moukir to carry me to Damascus Moucre comes from the Arabick word Kira which signifies to let to hire as one would say a letter out of Beasts to hire He was to furnish me with a Horse for my self and two Mules The charge of passage from Saide to Damascus one for my Servant and another for my Baggage besides he obliged himself to clear me of all the Caffares and I payed him sixteen Bockels and a half Tuesday the five and twentieth of March about eleven of the Clock in the Fore-noon I parted from Saide Departure from Saide we came to our lodging at Labatia about five a Clock in the Evening
the Earth hath brought forth stones instead of Grapes Having travelled in this manner till towards three of the Clock in the Afternoon we found a Village called Kefarhevar where Kefarhevar a Village our Moukires being in the humour to tell stories told me that Heretofore Nimrod dwelt there and that from thence he shot Arrows against Heaven VVe past that Village and having descended into a Valley and then mounted a little up again we came to Village called Beitima Beitima a Village where we took up our Lodging in a noble stable for in it was a place of Earth raised two foot high to make a separate appartment for the men from the Beasts Next day being Friday the eight and twentieth of March we set out half an hour after five in the Morning At first we did nothing but mount and descend during the space of two hours afterwards we entered into a great plain full of stones except in some places that were sowed and that plain reaches as far as Damascus There are a great many Villages in it Many Villages in the Territory of Damascus and at first we saw one called Catana about half a French League to the left of us Then we past near to another called Artous a little after we perceived one to our right hand named Mahtamia and so a great many more after that we left the High-way that leads to the Town and struck off to the left till we came to a great Village called Soliman and from thence to another named Salaia which was the Village of our Moukires where they would have had me to lodge had I not kept a great clutter with them these Blades go commonly to that Village to change their Beasts VVe went on then on our Journey and having past near to many Gardens Arrival at Damascus I arrived at Damascus about three of the Clock after Noon In all this Journey we saw but four VVolves of a greyish white Colour they were in company together and seemed not at all to be afraid of us for instead of running away they retreated at a foot pace onely we saw also several Covies of Patridges CHAP. IV. Of the City of Damascus AFter I had rested some days in Damascus I resolved to view the City but before I undertook it I took my necessary measures and since one must be assisted by some who have power I failed not to pay a visit to Topgi Bassa who received me most courteously and civilly I shall mention hereafter who this is and the good Offices he did me The City of Damascus has eight Gates to wit the East-Gate The number of gates in Damascus and their names or Bab-Charki that looks on the South-side along the VValls that are opposite to the East Bab-Tchiaour that looks to the South Bab-Jabie that looks to the VVest but somewhat Southward Bab-Choucaroua or Bab-Espahi that 's to say the Spahies Gate because furniture necessary for Horse-men is sold there it looks to the VVest it is also called the Serraglio Gate because it is opposite to the Serraglio Bab-Paboutch so called because it is the place where they sell Paboutches or shoes it looks betwixt VVest and North but somewhat more towards the VVest Bab-Fardis that 's to say the Gate of Paradise which looks betwixt VVest and North but more towards the North Bab-Salem or Gate of Peace so called because no dues are payed either entering in or going out at it a Grand Seignior having given it that Privilege it looks to the North Lastly Bab-Thomas which bears the Name of that Saint because in the outside there is a ruinous Church adjoyning to it dedicated to St. Thomas which looks to the North. The Circuit of the Town I went round the City on the outside of the Walls in an hour and a quarter walking pretty fast but the Suburbs are as big again as the Town and amongst others the Baboullah a Suburbs without the Gate Jabie reaches three or four Miles in length It is called Baboullah as one would say the divine Gate because that way goes the present which is sent from Damascus to Mecha In surrounding the place I observed that the Walls are not to be seen on the outside but from Bab-Tchiaour passing before Bab-Charki and then before Bab-Thomas to Bab-salem the rest being covered with Houses from Bab-Tchiaour to Bab-Thomas the VValls are double well built and very high having fair Battlements flanked at several distances with good Towers for the most part round some are square but of them there are but few The Inner-walls are about four fathom high The outer which are at some two fathoms distance from them are about three fathom and a half high and the space between ls filled up wlth Earth near four or five foot thick Before these VValls there is a Ditch about five fathom broad and two fathom or two and a half deep The length of Damascus I once measured the length of the City that 's to say from Bab-Charki to Bab-Jabie which is the Streight-street I was a quarter of an hour in walking it and reckoned two thousand one hundred paces The house of Ananias Let us take a view of the particular places and things That which first of all Travellers visit at Damascus is the House of Ananias which is inhabited by a Scheik I went thither with some friends and for some aspres we were suffered to enter in Having passed the gate and turned to the left hand by fourteen steps we descended into a Cellar which heretofore was a Church seeled and paved with Mosaick work of which some remains are still to be seen in the Pavements at present it is a Mosque and light enough to be so deep under ground that place as they say was the Chamber where Ananias lodged when God commanded him to go to Saul as it is related in the Acts of the Apostles Bab-Charki the East gate St. Paul's gate The beginning of the Streight-street The Gate Jaby Having visited that house wherein there is nothing curious besides the Antiquity of it we went to the Gate called Bab-Charki that 's to say the East-Gate it is likewise called St. Pauls Gate because it is near the place where that Holy Apostle was let down from the walls in a Basket. At that Gate begins the Streight-street mentioned in Holy Scripture which reaches as far as the Gate Jabie When we were past that Gate we turned to the right hand and having advanced a few paces we saw in one of the square Towers which are in the City-VVall about two fathom high two Free-stones on each of which there is a Flower-de-luce very well cut there is a third with an Inscription in Lingua Franca but the Characters are so worn out that they cannot be read Upon two other stones at the side of each Flower de-luce there are two Lions cut and near to each Lion a great Thistle Some will needs believe that the French
so he might save the Caffare After Sun-set he sent for me and I crossed the Bridge where the wheels are mentioned by Belon and Pietro della Valle which draw the Water that supplies the whole Town It is the Orontes still that runs there but I cannot tell how many Arches the Bridge has for I crossed it in the Night-time My Moucre was encamped so near that all Night long we had the musick of these wheels which mingling with the Bells of our Mules as they were feeding represented very well the chiming of the Bells of a little Countrey-Church of which the wheels made the base We parted from Hama on Sunday the twenty seventh of April at break of day leaving the Caravan of Powder at Hama where the way to Constantinople strikes off from that of Aleppo we continued our way still Northwards going to the right amongst the hills where hardly had we advanced half an hour before we entered a Plain which on all sides reaches out of sight and abounds in Pasture About Eight of the Clock we passed close by a Village Taibit El-Hama Lachmi called Taibit-El-Hama and about ten we found another called Lachmi but it is forsaken because of the Robberies of the Arabs At eleven we discovered some Trees and from Damascus to that place I had not seen one unless it were in the Gardens of the Towns and Villages and indeed wood is very dear on that road Salisbury-plain not being barer of Trees than that Countrey is Han Scheikhoun A little after towards Noon we arrived at Han Scheikhoun before which we encamped finding our selves better abroad under Tents than within though that Han which stands alone be pretty enough The first entry into it is by a Gate that looks to the West which leads into a large square Court and on the right hand as you enter there is a little door by which you enter into a Stable divided in length by a range of Arches that reach from one end to the other but it is not covered At the other end of the Court almost opposite to this door there is a little house inhabited and on the left hand in the middle of the Wall there is a great Gate which leads into another Court as large as the first where there are half paces covered for Lodging of Travellers Over the Gate of that second Court there is a great square Building of pretty good work in form of a Tower with a Dungeon before it and the Dome of the Mosque is in the middle There the Aga lodges for this is a Castle depending on the Basha of Aleppo Some hundreds of paces Northwards from thence behind a Hillock there is a Village of the same Name with the Han. We parted from that place the same day about ten a Clock at Night and in our way all Night long we found a great many shallow Cisterns dug on little Hillocks for receiving the Rain-water and at the foot of the Hillock there is another opening by which they goe down three or four steps to take the Water we found already the day before some of these which are made for the Arabs and Shepherds Next day being Monday the 28th of April about two in the morning we passed by a ruinated Han called Han Hherte Han Hherte and at break of day arrived at the Town of Marra encamping just before the Han. Marra That Town is at most but a good Village we could hardly find bread in it and there is nothing to be seen on all hands but Cellars and ruined Vaults the best thing is the Han which is well built of Free-stone it is a large square Court round which there is a Portico wherein are Mastabez seeing I often make use of that Term which is the proper word of the Countrey though I have already I think made known what it means nevertheless for the satisfaction of the Reader I tell him once more that a Mastabe is a kind of a half pace that 's to say that the Floor is raised two or three foot from the ground and there the Travellers lodge In the middle of the Court of this Han there is a little Mosque with a Dome covered with Lead at the end of it there is a little Court round which runs a Portico the Roof whereof is supported on each side by two Arches separated by a Pillar between the two close by there is a Bagnio with a large Dome covered with Lead but it is shut and useless for want of Water Next you 'l find a covered street where there is a Coffee-house and five or six Shops on each side and at the farther end are four Arches the remains of an Aqueduct which butted almost in a right Angle upon these four Arches it was carried thither from a Mosque some hundreds of paces distant in the fields where there was a Wheel to draw Water out of a Brook that ran by it which came from the Countrey towards Antioch This Aqueduct brought the Water behind the upper part of the covered street into the Bagnio that is joyned on the one side to the Street and on the other side to the Han it was built of rough Stone as the Arches that still remain are which at the other end are joyned to the great Mosque This great Mosque hath six little Domes the Roofs rough cast and at the end of it there is a pretty fair Minaret The rest of the Town is altogether beggarly It had also another Han of which nothing now remains but the Gate and some Arches which daily run into decay The houses are scattered here and there and no better than Owls-nests the Walls are of Stones two or three foot high piled one upon another without any Art on all hands there are great large Free-stones and pieces of Pillars to be seen some of which still retain some fragments of inscriptions Amongst these Ruines I saw a door about four foot high and half a foot thick with crosses and roses cut upon it it is all of one piece with its hooks which enter into holes purposely made above and below That door is of a greyish Stone very hard as the sides to which it shuts are and it requires no less than two men to open and shut it it is still in case and daily made use of Marra heretofore was a good Town but the Turkish Tyranny is the cause of its desolation they say that the Ruines of a Church built by the Christians when they were Masters of that Town are still to be seen there but because it is at some distance in the Countrey I did not go thither The Francks in this place pay four Piastres for Caffare and we stopt there all that day because the Turks celebrated the Bairam the Moon having appeared the Evening before We parted not then till Tuesday the nine and twentyeth of April at two of the Clock in the Morning about break of
day we passed by a Han called Han Merai near to which there is a good Village Han Merai About an hour after we found another called Han Herbe with a Village close by it Han Herbe and not far from thence a third About Eight in the Morning we came and encamped near to another called Han Serahheb The other three as well as this are all called Han Serahheb that 's to say the Hans of Wells because in the Fields near to these Hans there are several Wells whose Mouths are even with the ground but this last has more particularly the Name of Serahheb Han Serahheb It is in bad order most of the Vaults being ruined but has a Village close by it On that road we saw a great many Olive-trees and that was the second time that we found Trees since we came from Damascus We parted from thence the same day immediately after Sun-set and about Eleven a Clock at Night Zarbel passed by a Village called Zarbel where there is a Han. We had an allarm in that place because he that marched before with a Lanthorn cried out that he saw Horse-men which made us prepare to receive them but none came Han Toman Wednesday the thirtieth of April about break of day we passed by Han Toman and three hours after arrived at the City Aleppo where so soon as I alighted I went to the great Han to lodge with Mousieur Bertet as civil a Man as lives and as zealous to serve his Friends as his Brothers are who were then at Marseilles who have all shew'd me particular Kindnesses Monsieur Bertet who resides at Aleppo had obliged me by his advice and care when I was at Damascus and therefore I thanked Monsieur Baron who had the goodness to offer me his Lodging and accepted of the former Monsieur Baron was at that time Consul for France and discharged that Office with honour and universal Approbation CHAP. VII Of Observations of Aleppo Aleppo SEeing Aleppo which I take to be the Ancient Baerea is one of the most considerable Cities of the Ottoman Empire in Asia by reason of Trade I will describe what I observed in it as exactly as possibly I can This town is distant from Alexandretta or Scanderoon Alexandretta that lies Westward from it about two and twenty Leagues and from Euphrates which it hath to the East betwixt eight and twenty and thirty This Alexandretta which serves it for a Sea-port on the Mediterranean Sea is the Ancient Hierapolis Degrees of heat at Aleppo It is very hot in Aleppo and the first day of June at Noon I found by my Thermometre that the heat was at the thirtieth Degree The Air. The Air is thin and wholsom so that about the end of May they begin to lie in the Night-time upon Terrasses untill the middle of September and that without any fear of danger or hurt for during all that time there is no Dew and they say that in the Months of May June and July there is no Cloud to be seen nevertheless whilst I was there we had Clouds often and Rain too which all wondered at The circumference of Aleppo I went the Circuit of Aleppo twice once on horse-back and another time on foot the first time I thought that in a large hour one might walk round it on foot and indeed having undertaken to do it my self with a friend keeping close by the Walls on the outside it took us up but an hour and a quarter and if we had not stopped to look about us we had certainly performed it in an hour or little more We left the Suburbs and went through the middle of Dgedid Dgedid a Suburbs which is a kind of a Burrough or Suburbs lately built as its Name implies for in Arabick it signifies new The Christians of the Countrey lodge in that quarter but there are several Turks also among them and the houses are well built The Maronites Armenians Greeks and Syrians have each of them a Church there This Suburbs lies betwixt the Gates Bab-El-Feradge and Bab-El-Nasre and is pretty near the Burying-place of the Christians The Walls of Aleppo The Walls of this City are not strong though they stand upon a Rock and there are houses built close by them The Gates of Aleppo The City of Aleppo hath ten Gates to wit Bab-Antakie the Gate of Antakia by which they go to Antakia or Antioch it looks to the West and North-West Bab-El-Dgenain the Gate that leads to a Village called Genain it looks also West-North-West Bab-El-Feradge the Gate of fair prospect because passing out at it one has a sight of several Gardens it looks likewise West-North-West Bab-El-Nasre the Gate of Victory because by that Gate the Turks entered the Town when they made themselves Masters of it the Christians call it St. George's Gate it looks North-East Bab-El-Barcousa otherwise Bab-El-Hadid or Iron-gate it looks East-South-East Bab-El-Ahmar the red Gate it looks to the South-East Bab-El-Atame the dark Gate it looks to the South-East but it has been stopt up not long since because much mischief was done there Bab-El-Nairem the Gate that leads to Nairem it looks to the South-East Bab-El-Macam so called from a Santo of that Name buried hard by it is also called Damascus Gate and looks to the South Bab-Kennesrim from the Name of a Captain that kept it in time of the Christians it is also called the Prison-Gate because the Prisons are near to it it looks to the South-West My meaning is that the City in those places where these Gates are looks to these Quarters of the World for some of the Gates look along the Walls Without the Prison's Gate there are a great many fair large Caves cut in the Rock which are wide and have a very high Roof reaching above an Hundred paces into the Rock They make ropes in the mouths of them and lay Grapes there also a drying to make Brandy of This Rock is white and pretty soft Seeing my curiosity led me to see all that could be seen they took me one day to a place called Scheik Bakir from the Name of the Founder Scheik Bakir it is a very pleasant convent of Dervishes You enter into a Court where there is a Fountain with a lovely Bason on the right hand at the end of the Court there is a fair large Hall covered with a great Dome paved with lovely greyish Marble and on the left hand stands the Mosque covered with a Dome The Water they have in that house is forced by Pousseragues From thence we past by the Garden of Sultan Amurat which signifies but little and then went to refresh our selves at the Fish-well The Fish-well which is a Court surrounded with Walls where there are a great many plane-Trees and a Canal wharfed with Marble that is filled with Water from a very good Spring hard by and that Water
would have perswaded me to stay till the heats were over I agreed with a Turk who had hired several Mules Agreement for transportation from Aleppo to Mosul and Bagdad and gave him thirty Piastres to transport me my man and baggage by Land to Mosul and from Mosul to Bagdad by Keleck and to clear me of all Caffares some days after he would have three Piastres more and Cloath-Stockins for four Piastres I gave him all in hand as he desired though I thought it not the safest course but onely that I might not baulk a friend from whom I had received many kindnesses and who had made the bargain for me Seeing he had never travelled that Journey himself and that he thought every man as honest as he was he perswaded himself that he had done very well for me In the mean time the onely way is to bargain with the Muletors and not to pay them in hand for if I had done so it would not have cost me so much That Turk payed the Muletor but fifteen Piastres for the two Mules and a half that I had loaded and all the rest of the Caravan payed no more but six Piastres a Mule. Besides Six Piastres a Mule. that infidel told me many times upon the road that he had neither agreed for my baggage nor for the Caffares and would have I know not how many Piastres more and in fine I was forced to pay new charges from Mosul to Bagdad I parted from Aleppo on Sunday the nine and twentieth of June accompanied with several French Merchants on Horse-back who would needs do me that honour to see me to the Caravan which was in the Meidan by the Gardens close by the City I went out by the Gate Bab-El-Barkousa and my Servant told me who had been there with my Goods two days that the Night before one of my Fire-locks had been stollen A Theft and some Goods taken from others It behoved me to be contented since others were in the same condition and that they told me they had seen the Thieves and pursued them but could not overtake them These thieves slide cunningly along upon their bellies like Snakes and therefore in all that Journey they lye not in tents in the Night-time but on the contrary unpitch them at Night because then as they say they serve onely for spectacles to Robbers Next morning at the break of day we set forward on our Journey and were at first troubled with cold for some time We marched till nine of the Clock and then encamped in a Field called Sammaia Sammaia near the River of Aleppo that runs by this place and has a little Bridge over it We parted from thence on Tuesday the first of July about break of day and about nine a Clock we met a great Caravan coming from Mosul in which there was a Watch-maker who came from Persia where he had long lived with his Wife and Children After we had discoursed a little together we parted there Caravan going on to Sammaia and ours about ten in the morning stopping in a field called Chetanli Chetanli where a little Brook runs among Reeds From Aleppo to that place we had always kept East-North-East and from thence to Bi r our way lay East Next day being Wednesday the second of July we parted from Cheranli about break of day and about ten in the Morning came to a great Village called Mazar Mazar near to which we encamped This place hath much wood and water about it which renders it very pleasant and here you may see a very lovely Cascade of nine or ten Stories which has been made for a Water-mill hard by We began then to feel it very hot both day and night Next morning July the third we decamped about two Clock after midnight and at break of day past betwixt two grounds where a great many Fig-trees were planted in streight rows About half an hour after seven we marched betwixt two Hillocks upon one of which to the right hand there is a Building with a kind of a Pyramide Half an hour after we came to the Banks of Euphrates Euphrates which seemed to me to be no bigger than the River of Seine but they say it is very broad in Winter and the truth is its bed is twice as broad This River is called Frat and Mourat Soui that 's to say the water of desire because say they a Calife of Bagdad having sent for a little of all the Waters of the Countrey The Water of Euphrates is very light and having caused them to be weighed the Water of Euphrates was found to be the lightest This River runs very slowly and is navigable for little Barks as far up as the place where it joyns the Tygris but great Barks go onely from Bi r to Rousvania Rousvania which is a Village distant from Bi r about ten days Journey and then they unload their Goods which are carried upon Camels to Bagdad which is but a small days Journey from it where they are conveyed by Water upon the Tygris Thus do the barks loaded with glass of which I shall presently speak go to Baslora Not that this River is so unnavigable as some would have it for whilst I was at Aleppo the Scheick Bandar hired a bark to carry by Euphrates to Rousvania five or six hundred cases of glass which he sent to the Indies The reason why great barks go not beyond Rousvania is because there are some Rocks in the River which hinder their passage but are avoided by smaller Boats. Nevertheless I should have taken that occasion to go to Bagdad had I not been told that the barks stopped some days in certain places where the passage is best and go but very slowly and that besides I could not in the least stir from the bark without danger of being robbed by the Arabs nor stay on board without being much incommoded by the heat because they have no Deck I wondered to see that they who baled up these Chests for the Scheick Bandar tumbled them so rudely that they broke all the glass but they told me that it mattered not though it were all broken into pieces because the Indian Men and Women buy it onely to have little pieces set in Rings which serve them for Looking-glasses to see themselves in That glass is all over laid with Quick-silver on one side and is a very saleable commodity in the Indies and profitable to the Merchants The Boats of Euphrates We crossed over Euphrates in great boats which have the rudder about three foot distant from the stern of the boat below as Pietro della Valle reports and I think no other reason need to be given for it but that of frugality because these kinds of boats cost them less than if they were made like ours for their rudder is no more but pieces of board nailed cross-ways to the end of Poles and that would signifie nothing
dues from our Caravan and took my Sword out of my Tent which he left in the hands of the Kervan-Bassa pretending a Piastre from me as being a Franck but having spoken to my Moucre he went and brought back my Sword. Next day a Thief stole the Doliman or long Coat of one of our Company A Thief but after a very bold and in some manner pleasant way We stayed and lay at the house of a Physician who was a Franck and being asleep in the cool upon a Mastabe of his Court about an hour before day a nimble Rogue cunningly opened the Gate and came softly to the Doliman which was near to him it belonged to he awakening at the noise the Thief made in emptying his Pockets was not at all startled on the contrary thinking it was his man he twice called him by his Name at which our Thief who as I think had no design to carry off the Doliman but onely what was in the Pockets imagining that he was discovered whipt away Doliman and all In the mean time the onely remedy was not to talk of it for if the Sousbasha had come to know it he would have come to the House and seized all that he found in it protesting that there were no Thieves in the Town and that the Theft must be proved by producing the Thief At Orfa there is pretty good Wine both White and Claret CHAP. X. The Continuation of the Journey to Mosul by Codgiasar the Countrey of Merdin and Nisibin Departure from Orfa SAturday the twelfth of July we parted from Orfa at two of the Clock in the Morning we had put off our departure for two days that we might learn news of the Arabs but at length when we were on our way we heard that there were above a thousand of the Arabs Tents in the place where we were to encamp the first Night This gave so fearfull an allarm to all our Caravan though it consisted of two hundred men armed with Muskets or Lances that it was resolved we should leave the High-way which was almost East or East-North-East and instead of that we took our way streight North-East on that side we found some Cuodes with their flocks who perceiving us were themselves in great fear for they took us for Arabs Heretofore they robbed in Troops on Horse-back but the Arabs having often routed them they have forsaken the trade onely in the Night-time they come creeping on their Bellies and endeavour to snap somewhat in the Caravans but on the Frontiers of Bagdad and Persia they are bolder than in those quarters Dgiallab Having twice crossed the small River or Brook of Dgiallab about ten of the Clock we encamped in a plain called Edue where I cured one of our Moucres of a head-ach that had held him three days with a fore-head Cloath dipt in Brandy on which I put bruised Pepper Edue The plain of Edue is watered by the Brook Dgiallab which at this place is as broad as the River of the Gobelines at Paris the head of it is an hours march from thence North-Eastward in a place called Pouar-Bashi that 's to say the Fountain-head wherein Sanson is mistaken who makes it to come from Mount Taurus An errour in Geography to the North of Orfa by which he makes it to run and then fall into Euphrates and nevertheless it runs not by Afra but having watered many Villages it loses it self under ground some days Journey from Edue In this plain there is a score of Tombs of Free-stone and on most of them a Stone-figure that dully represents a Lyon and at the sides of it a Buckler and Sword painted red They are the Tombs of some brave Curds who have died in the Wars We parted from Edue on Sunday the thirteenth of July half an hour after three in the morning as it had been published in the Camp the evening before all were likewise warned by a publick cry to take heed to themselves because of the many Robbers that were there abouts and that for that reason they would not load but by day-light We marched North-East and an hour after we were engaged amongst Hills but without any ascending and there we saw the source of Dgiallab The Source of Dgiallab We were not above three quarters of an hour among these Mountains and coming out from among them we entered into a Plain where we all found that we were out of our way however we still kept on East-North East but a little more to the North-ward that we might find Water to encamp by Turcomans About Eleven of the Clock we found a score of Turcoman Horse men armed with Muskets and Lances but they said nothing to us and I believe it was because they durst not though I was told that they have robbed no more since a Basha of Diurbeck called Dilaver provoked by the great Robberies they committed marched out and made a great slaughter of them After that we crossed over a Countrey full of little hills amongst which there were some small plains full of Thistles and Stones which made abominable way and we were so tired marching from hill to hill that we were all afraid we should be forced to march so till next day But at length a quarter after one of the Clock at Noon we arrived half roasted upon one of these little hills called Toubangiou where having found a Well of Spring-water Toubangiou we encamped by it from the top of these hills we had a view of the Mountains called Caradgia-Daglar Caradgia-Daglar About eleven a Clock at Night we had an allarm from twenty five Curdish Horse-men who came towards our Camp who being discovered the allarm was given for it had been published in the Evening that we should all watch for one another Allarmed at the sound of a Flute instead of a Drum and some of our Men marching out of the Camp and putting themselves in a posture to fire upon the Curds they cried aloud praying us not to fire upon them because they were going a hunting and so went on their way We spent every Night in this manner inciting one another to watch and singing to keep us from sleeping We parted next Morning about a quarter after three for we marched no more now before break of day that we might not be surprised Our way was East a little towards the South-East and about six a Clock we found fifteen or twenty of the Curds Tents made of the hair of black Goats Tents of the Curds under which were several Women and Children about eight of the Clock we found above sixty of them and three quarters of an hour after we encamped near a Well of Spring-water in a place called Alaki Alaki These Curds came and sold Provisions in our Camp but most part of them would not take Money but onely Soap or Tobacco and chiefly Soap and though they were offered Ten pence for that which was
not worth Eight pence they would not take it saying that they would not give it for a Piastre but for Soap they would The Night following we had a very cold Wind but not so the day after for then it was excessively hot We parted from Alaki on Tuesday the fifteenth of July about three of the Clock in the Morning and marched on East-South East An hour after we left the bad way full of Stones which we had constantly had from Orfa and entered into a great Plain having always to the left the Mountains Caradgia which are the Mount Taurus The Mountains of Caradgia or Taurus that reaches from above Ofra to Diarbeck towards the East and from thence South-East till over against Kinzilken and till near to Nisibin towards the North-East and from thence South-East till within two days Journey of Mosul About six a Clock I was told that the Town of Diarbeck The Town of Diarbeck called in Armenian Amid was two long or three short days march to our left hand and that was the nearest we came to it Half an hour after seven we passed by a little Chappel covered with a stone-Dome wherein there is a Tomb which the People of the Countrey say is the Tomb of Job Jobs Tomb. and at present there is a Santo who prays at the back of that Chappel for this is a famous place of Pilgrimage and this Santo hath a little Cell near a Well of good Spring-water Half an hour after eight we arrived at the foot of a hillock on which stands a Village called Telghiouran Telghiouran Tel in Arabick signifies a little hill and we encamped in the Plain near a Fountain This day and the preceeding we found by the way many plants called Agnus Castus or Canabis Canabis Agnus castus for they grow three foot high and have the leaves divided by fives like a hand the middlemost being the longest and then the two next to it the two last are the least they are jagged in the middle and white underneath in short that plant ends at the top in an ear of several little Flowers of a very bright blew they grow among the Stones and may be seen there in great tufts I must here also observe some faults in Sansons Mapp of Diarbeck An errour in Geography Mid-way from Orfa to Telghiouran we should have passed a River which he calls Soaid and makes it to come from Mount Taurus pass by Caraemit and a great deal after fall into Euphrates nevertheless in all our Caravan there was not one who could give me any tidings of that Water and from Orfa to Telghiouran we passed no other Water but Dgiallab Other errours Besides he hath made so many faults in the positions of places and in their distances as also in the changing their Names that nothing is to be known by it and though I named to many of our Caravan most of the Names that he has put in his Diarbeck or rather Diarbekir the best way I could yet they knew not above two or three of them Caramid Amid and Diarbeck are but one and the same Town Alchabour He makes two Towns of Caramid and Amid and it is but one to wit Diarbeck He makes the River Alchabour the same with Dgiallab and that of Orfa That River of Alchabour takes its source about four days Journey from Mardin towards the South and falls into Euphrates They say that the Water of this River is so good that if after a man hath eaten a whole Lamb he drink of it he 'll not find it burthen his Stomach Chabur Chobar But it is to be observed that there is also another River called Chabur which is the Chobar mentioned in the Prophesie of Daniel it is less and has it source below Mosul on the left hand to those who go down the Tygris and at Bagdad loses it self in the Tygris and by what I could learn of an ancient Syrian of Mosul who hath many times travelled by divers ways from Mosul to Aleppo and from Aleppo to Mosul there are a great many other faults in the Mapp of Diarbeck which makes me to think that it hath been taken from bad Memoirs Telghiouran Telghiouran is a Castle enclosed with a great many Stones piled up one upon another in former times it was a great Town but through the Turkish Tyranny it was defeated There are about an hundred Houses of Armenians in it but none of Turks except of the Aga and his Servants which Aga is also customer and Chorbagi we found a little thick muddy Claret there which they bring from Mardin Under the trees at the foot of the hill there is a little Chappel where are Chains that they put about mad mens Necks and they say that if they are to be cured they fall off of themselves but if otherwise they must be taken off The Customer of this place came to our Caravan to receive his dues We parted from thence next day the sixteenth of July three quarters after three in the Morning and continued our way East-South-East About half an hour after five we saw by the way many stones and some walls of houses still standing About six a Clock we had a great allarm because those who were foremost had espied some Horse-men all made ready some lighted their matches ond others took their bow and two arrows in their hand some run this way and others that way and nevertheless it was in vain for me to ask where the Arabs were for no body could let me see them because then they were in a little bottom A little after we came to know that it was the Aga of Telghiouran coming from some place where his business had carried him who was accompanied with ten Horse-men armed some with Muskets and others with Lances or Darts About eight a Clock we saw on our left hand near a Well several black Tents of the Curds who flying from the Arabs came and encamped in that place and we marching forewards about three quarters after ten came and encamped near a hillock in a place called Carakouzi Carakouzi where there is a Well of good Spring-water which bears the same Name Next day Thursday the seventeenth of July we parted from thence about three quarters after two in the Morning and continued our way East-South-East we entered among the Mountains where for almost an hour we did nothing but climb up and down in ways full of great stones having past them and got again into the plain we kept on the same course approaching to the Caradgia Mountains Half an hour after six we found a Well of good Spring-water Maes Sarazin Corn. Ricinus Palma Christi at seven we saw a Field sowed with Maez or Sarazin Corn and another full of Ricinus or Palma Christi at most but a foot high a great many draw Oil from it for Lamps and to rub the Camels with to make their
hair come for it falls off every year Having then passed by a great many sorry Ruines of houses and crossed a little Brook about half an hour after nine we were got by a large round Pond full of yellowish Rain-water where the Curds were watering a great number of Cattel of which the chief and most common are black Goats of whose hair they make their Tents The Village of Teldgizre Mount Taurus Half an hour after ten we passed by a great Village called Teldgizre which was to our left and then we were got so near Mount Taurus that was also to our left that it was not above an hours march to the foot of it following the current of a little Brook which was on the same side half an hour after eleven we came and encamped near a great Village called Kizilken by which that rivulet runs I observed on the way that day that they were but then cutting down their Corn whereas at Aleppo they begin to cut about the end of May or beginning of June After we were encamped we felt notwithstanding our Pavillions so hot a Wind A hot Wind. that it seemed to have mustered together and brought with it all the heat of the Air and I think that a man standing near a great flame which the Wind blew upon his face could not feel a hotter Air. Kizilken is a great Village all inhabited by Syrians we found some Carpous Kizilken or water-Mellons there which were ripe and good and these did us a great deal of kindness In the night-time there came Robbers several times but they that watched making as if they would fire upon them they made some silly excuses and marched away From Kizilken we parted next day being Friday the eighteenth of July half an hour after one of the Clock in the Morning and continued our way East-South East about four a Clock we saw on our right hand two very solid well built houses but abandoned as well as the old Ruines that were to our left Half an hour after seven we arrived at a great Village called Kodgiasar where the Customer came to take his dues Kodgiasar but not knowing that I was a Franck asked me nothing In former times it was a very great Town and some very high and substantial Buildings still remain and amongst others a spacious Church rarely well built First you enter into a large Court along which stands the Church that hath seven doors all stopt up except the middlemost which hath a great Nich on each side over these doors there has been Mosaick work the place whereof is still to be observed and at the four Corners of the Court there has been four very high square Steeples covered with little Domes of which at present there are onely three remaining and of these too but one entire The other two want onely the Dome they are built of pretty little Free-stones with Ornaments of Architecture and so is the Church also the middle wherof is covered with a Dome rough cast over and the Walls supported by good large stone-Butteresses The Turks having converted it into a Mosque have made a Keble in it and a little Pulpit to preach in Near to this Town runs a Water that passes under a Bridge of five Arches to say the truth it is not very good but there are good Wells and each house has one There is one in the middle of the Court of that Church and hard by it a kind of Dome supported by several Pillars but for what use I know not unless it be to wash in as the Turks do when they go to their Mosque Kodgiasar is over against Merdin that stands upon a hill to the North-East of it the Castle is on the very top of the hill and is seen at a great distance Merdin being four hours Journey from Kodgiasar The Customer of Merdin came to our Camp for his dues and demanded of me as a Franck five Piastres and therefore made my man Prisoner but my Moucre brought him out he was informed that I was a Franck by a Turk of the Caravan who was the onely man of them all that shewed any aversion to me The Castle of Merdin is so strong that the Turks say no Army is able to take it seeing they have both Spring-water and Cistern-water They will have it that Tamarlan lay seven years before this Castle who to shew them that he would continue there untill it were taken caused the Trees below it to be cut down and new ones planted of the fruit of which when they began to bear he sent to the Garrison and that the besieged to make the best shew they could sent him Cheese made of Bitches milk as if it had been of the Milk of Ewes which wrought a good effect for he was perswaded by that that they had not as yet spent their sheep and despairing to force them he raised the Siege though he had prevailed in all the other Sieges that he attempted There is a Basha at Merdin and almost all the Inhabitants of Kodgiasar are Robbers We stayed there all Saturday because the Customer had not as yet agreed with our People what he was to have of every load having asked too much at Kodgiasar there still remain many fair Steeples and other antiquities standing in several places The same Saturday the nineteenth of July there arrived a little Caravan near to our Camp which came from Aleppo and was going to Van. On Sunday the twentieth of July we parted from Kodgiasar about three a clock in the morning half an hour after five we past by a great Village called Toubijasa Toubijasa which was on our left hand and is onely inhabited by Syrians So soon as we passed it we came into a great plain sowed with Cucumbers and Melons A Field of Melons and Cucumbers of which those of our Caravan took as many as they could eat and carry with them notwithstanding the Cries of the poor People Men Women and Children who had no better payment than ill words as if they had been much in the wrong for complaining that their Goods were forcibly taken from them About nine a Clock we passed a little Water and after that found the Tents of some Curds three quarters after nine we encamped near a Village called Futlidge Futlidge near to which there is a Well of good Water in Winter they encamp at a Village near the Mountains Caradere called Caradere a little on this side because there are Grotto's in them to lodge in We parted about two of the Clock in the Morning directing our way East-South-East such hot Vapours steemed out of the Earth that for breath and that I might not be stiffled I was forced to fan my self which made me think of the Sausiel which I had already heard so much of Half an hour after five we saw on the side of the way to the left the Ruines of a great Castle
called Sertschehan of which several panels of Wall still stand About eight of the Clock we found some Tents of the Curds and then crossed at least twelve Canals one after another which discharge their Water at Nisibin where we arrived three quarters of an hour after eight and encamped beyond the Bridge which consists of eleven small Arches under which a great Water runs which is divided into three by plowed Fields that reach even to the Bridge and render three of its Arches useless They call all these the Waters of Nisibin for ask them the Name of a River in what manner you please they 'll give you no other but the Name of the place it runs by This water comes from the Mountains and before it reach Nisibin they cut it into several Channels for watering of their grounds that are planted with Cotton rice and other things which require Water That 's a heavy and unwholsome Water and so is the Air which is so bad that I was told that if one sleep in it by day or by night he runs a great risk of being sick and that is the reason why the People of the Countrey are so tawny as they are Nisibin Nisibin was formerly a great Town at present it is divided into two quarters separated by a plowed field and both these quarters make but an ordinary Village Mar-Jacob Heretofore it had a Church dedicated to Mar-Jacob that 's to say St. James who is called the Brother of our Lord It was very large but at present there is nothing to be seen but the Arches of the doors and a small space which was as I think the end of the Church walled up by the Syrians where they and the Armenians at present celebrate Mass The Customer of Nisibin came and demanded his dues of our Caravan though Nisibin depend on the Basha of Merdin the Customer of which had already taken his dues at Kodgiasar but he took nothing from me because he thought I was a Greek We parted from Nisibin next day being Tuesday the two and twentieth of July about one a Clock in the Morning by Star-light and passed another Canal a strong North-Wind blew then which hardly cooled the Air. About five of the Clock we began to see on our right hand the Mountains Sendgiar which reach from North-West to South-East Mountain Sendgiar but they were about two days Journey distant from us Half an hour after seven we crossed a water half an hour after eight another and a quarter after nine we passed a third which was very lovely Dgerrahhi Soui and called Dgerrahhi Soui We thought to have encamped near it as is usual but because the Mules must have been sent to grase on the other side and that it would have been troublesome to make them cross it back again in the Evening we went farther and encamped near to a Spring of good Water Kimarlick in a place called Kimarlick from which we parted about eleven of the Clock at Night and crossed a great Water where our Caravan was a long time in passing it because of the dark and of the many great Stones that are in the Water when we passed it we stood away Eastwards Wednesday the three and twentieth of July about two a Clock in the Morning we found another Water and another again about four a Clock and three quarters of an hour after a very pleasant little River which turns and winds through a small plain encompassed with hills Three quarters after five we saw by the way to our left a Hillock on the top of which there is a Dome under which lies buried one Imam Ahmed Imam-Ahmed for whom the Turks have great Veneration and this is a place of Pilgrimage About seven a Clock we passed by a sorry Village called Candgi Candgi and half an hour after we encamped near a Spring of good Water in a plain called by the Name of the Village The Inhabitants thereabouts are so given to thieving that they stay not for the Night as others do but come into the Camp in the day-time under pretext of selling Corn for the Horses and walking up and down if they perceive any thing not well looked after they fail not to lift it We parted from thence the same day about half an hour after seven of the Clock at Night and marched East-South-East It was extreamly hot till about two a Clock next Morning that the Air grew cooler We marched without finding Water or Habitation untll half an hour after six that we came and encamped in a plain called Adgisou because of a water that runs there among the reeds and is bitter according as I had been told that from Candgi to Mosul there was neither habitation nor good water which made me provide my self before hand nevertheless having tasted it I did not find it to be so bitter Friday the five and twentieth of July we parted from Adgisou half an hour after three in the Morning for we were not willing to travel in the Night-time for fear of the Arabs We marched South and about eight of the Clock crossed a Brook of bitter water half an hour after we crossed another whose water was pretty good upon a hillock close by there stands a wall which seems to have been the Wall of a Castle whereof there is no more remaining Half an hour after nine we crossed a great Brook of brackish Water and three quarters after eleven a small River that runs under a Bridge of four Arches of which two are broken and indeed they seem to be useless for the breadth of the water reaches but to the two that are whole and it must needs be very high when it passes through the other two which stand upon a pretty high ground This Bridge is below a little ruinous Castle standing upon a hillock it hath been square but there is nothing remaining but the four Walls and a little round Tower in a corner We encamped close by this Castle all scorched with the Sun and stewed in Sweat that place is called Kesick-Cupri that 's to say broken Bridge Kesick-Cupri and the Water is called Cupri-Sou that 's to say the Bridge-water and no other Names of Rivers are to be got from them I informed my self of the source of that River An errour in Geography which Sanson seems to have confounded with that of Nisibin and I was told that it was another and that the source is not far from that Bridge This water is not very good but it is not bitter as I had been told and close by it there is a Fountain of far worse water We left that place the same day three quarters after seven at Night and took our way East-ward About eleven a Clock we passed by a Village called Wlhayat Wlhayat which is wholly forsaken because of the Tyranny of the Turks At midnight we had a great Allarm but we found it onely to
and amongst others we saw a flight altogether like Francolines save that they have an unpleasant smell though the flesh of them be firm and very good to eat They were so numerous that I think a grain of small shot could not have past through without hitting some of them and they made a Cloud above five hundred paces in length and fifty in breadth About six a Clock we began to have little hills on our right hand which lasted about two hours And we passed near to one out of which they have Sulphur which they purifie and melt into Canes This Sulphur is a very white Earth for we were pretty near that hill which is almost wholely of Sulphur We stopped on the Curdistan shoar two hundred paces from thence about Sun-setting and rested upon the ground by the Water-side some of the Company stayed on board to guard the Kelecks for the Arabs when they see Kelecks many times come swimming and take what they can and then make their escape in the same manner They have besides the cunning when they are swimming to put some branches of trees upon their heads that it may not be thought they are men The water over against these hills is no broader than the length of the Pont Marie at Paris That Night we had a very hot Wind which sometimes brought with it cold gusts also and I observed they were not so strong as the others I was afraid it might have been the Samiel because it blew from that hill of Sulphur Next Morning being Saturday the ninth of August we embarked about break of day Hills of Sulphur We still saw on the side of Mesopotamia some hills of Sulphur which we smelt We met several People Men Women and Girls that crossed the Water stark naked having a Borrachio under each Arm-pit and their baggage on their heads and amongst the rest we saw two Girls who swam over without any help Half an hour after Sun-rising we perceived on the Water-side to the left hand Houses of Arabs several of the Arabs houses square and about two fathom high they were made of Poles and covered with leaves their Cattel were hard by and also their Horses which are always saddled These are their Summer-houses for in the Winter-time they shelter themselves under their Tents of black Goats hair Alyhamam Hot Baths About six a Clock we stopt at a Village called Alyhamam in Mesopotamia there are a great many natural hot Baths there and I make no doubt but these Waters run through Sulphur The People of the Countrey have dugg great Pits in the Earth under little Domes wherein they bath themselves for my own part I thought it enough to wet a finger therein and found it very hot but not scalding Sick people come there from all quarters and are cured but especially Lepers There are a great many always there from Mosul which is but a days Journey of Caravan distant All the Houses of this Village are by the Water-side they are all about two fathom square and the Walls and Roofs are onely of Canes interlaced with branches of Trees we rested there about two hours and then continued our Voyage The Sun that day was several times overcast with Clouds that did us a great kindness after Noon we stopt a little to stay for the other Keleck which was not come up About three a Clock we came to Asiguir Asiguir which is a place where the remains of the Foundation of a Bridge are still to be seen over which the Water runs with so much noise that we heard it half an hour before we came to the place When we were got there we went a shoar on the left hand because there is onely a small passage near Land for the Kelecks and in the Summer-time it is so shallow that many times they are forced to keep in the middle and go over stones that rise to the brim of the Water and make a kind of cascade or fall We all took our Arms to defend us against the Lions which are there in great Numbers amongst little Coppises however we saw none When the Keleck had passed near the shoar the current carried it into the middle of the River so that it could not stop till it came to an Island which is about fifty paces from the main Land and thither we went to it up to the knees in water A little after we had a great many hills to the right hand and on the first of them there is still some remains of a Castle called Top-Calai that 's to say the Castle of Cannons Top-Calai they say it was built by Nimrod as well as that Bridge which he had built for his convenience in going to his Mistress whom he kept on the other side Besides that we saw a great many other hills of Sulphur and one amongst the rest very high the Sulphur whereof appeared very yellow and smelt strong About half an hour after we saw the end of these Mountains and had others on the left hand covered over with Trees A quarter of an hour after we saw on the left hand River of Zarb the place where the River of Zarb falls into the Tigris It 's a great River more than half as broad as the Tigris very rapid and the Water thereof is whitish and cold They say that it comes very far off from the Mountains of Curdistan and is onely Snow-water On the same side about a French League up in the Countrey there is a hill by it self on which are the Ruines of a Castle called Kchaf Kchaf Having passed this place which looks like a little Sea we had constantly to the left hand Woods full of Lions Boars and other wild Beasts We rowed on till the Sun was setting not knowing where to lye because we durst not go a shoar on the side of the Woods for fear of Lions and on the side of Mesopotamia we saw Arabs at length just at Sun-setting we stopt near Woods which are all of Tamarisk and Liquourice and set a guard both against Men and Beasts From Mosul to this place they reckon it two days Journey and a half by Caravan After midnight three Robbers stark naked approached but finding themselves discovered they dived into the water and disappeared nevertheless this gave us a great allarm for they who saw them ran in all haste to the Keleck crying out like men in extreme danger and the rest not knowing what the matter was and thinking that they had a Lion at their heels threw themselves desperately into the Keleck whilst those that were asleep on board awaking at the noise and imagining there was a Lion in the Keleck endeavoured to get out In short so great was the disorder that no man knowing what he did it is a wonder we did not kill one another Sunday the tenth of April about break of day we put forward again and half an hour after past by the foot of a
unless it be Liquorice of which there is plenty every where Oyl of Naphta Carrier-Pigeons An errour in Geography about the confluent of Tygris and Euphrates They burn at Bagdad more of the Oyl of Naphta than Candles and it is got somewhere in those Quarters They have Carrier-Pigeons of a better kind than in any other place We must here take notice of a considerable mistake in all Maps where Bagdad is placed a great way below the confluent of the two Rivers of Euphrates and Tygris though it be certain that they joyn not but at ten or twelve days Journey below Bagdad in the furthermost part of Dgezri It is true that in the Winter-time when these two Rivers break out they joyn at Bagdad but that happens not every year About eight or nine days Journey below Bagdad there is a Canal made which goes from Euphrates to the Tygris Immediately after I arrived in this Town a Caravan offering for Hamadan in Persia Agreement for the Journey from Bagdad to Hamadan I bargained with a Christian and gave him seven Piastres for every Beast of carriage and paid nine and twenty Piastres Ryals for three Horses that I had occasion for for my own use and a fourth for Monsieur Jacob a Watch-maker who travelled the same way for which the Christian was to defray all Caffares and Customs as far as Hamadan for all things generally pay Custom and that without any regard to the value but only the weight The ordinary rate is seven Piastres Ryals for twenty three Patmans The names and value of weights and money Piastre Abassi Chais Para. Aspre Boquelle Turkish Chequin Venetian Chequin a Patman makes three Rottles of Aleppo or six Oques and three Ounces The Abassi is is worth there two Chais and a half the Piastre Ryal is worth eight Chais and each Chai five Paras and the Para four Aspres which are all pieces of Silver the Boquelle is worth seven Chais the Turkish Chequin is worth eighteen Chais and the Venetian nineteen That Caravan consisted of threescore and ten or fourscore men all bold and fearless Blades for they had but one Pistol and some few Shables amongst them all and to shew that it was not the number they relied upon they commonly divided and marched separately at some distance from one another without fear of Robbers and they were almost all Persians They were as little apprehensive too of the weather as of dangers for amongst them all they had no more but two or three little sorry Tents covered with some pieces of old Carpets For my own part since I was not so brave I had a good Pavillion to cover me and amongst three of us we had twelve shot that we could fire without re-charging We parted from Bagdad Wednesday the twentieth of August Departure from Bagdad about five a clock in the evening and joyned the Caravan which was encamped amongst small Trees without the Gate called Caranlu-Capi that looks to the East At this Gate each of us paid a Chai these Chais are also called Bagdadi because they are coyned at Bagdad they weigh a drachm a-piece Chai Bagdadi The Caravan marched next day being Thursday the one and twentieth of August a little after midnight We presently entered the Desart marching Northward in a great Plain of very smooth whitish ground glazed over with Salt where grows nothing but wild Caper-shrubs and Land-Caltrops Wild Caper Shrubs Caltrops Aadgem Coulasi An hour and a half after we saw in the dark to our left a Tower like a little Castle upon a Hillock it is called Aadgem-Koulasi that 's to say the Persians Tower. About nine a clock in the morning we encamped by the side of the Tygris some miles below Yenghidge near a Village called Locmam-Hakin or Locman the wise there we staid all day and in the evening we heard several companies of Chakales which entertained us with their Musick Next day being Friday the two and twentieth of August we parted after midnight and having taken a Guide at Locmam-Hakim we marched due East Locmam-Hakim Diala a River and about nine in the morning came to the side of a River called Diala which we crossed in a Ferry-boat On the other side we paid each Horse-man an Abassi to a Turk who receives that Toll and all pay the same of whatsoever Religion they be This River is at least as broad as two third parts of the Seine and at Bassora it falls into the Tygris Having crossed it we went and lodged in a great Village called Aacoube Aacoube under Palm-Trees which are there in great quantity Next morning by break of day we began to march our Company would not set out sooner because they knew not the ways We continued our way Eastwards and about seven a clock saw to the left hand a Mosque which is a place of Pilgrimage A quarter of an hour after we past through the ruins of a desolated Village and then over a Bridge of one Arch under which the Channel was very dry About nine of the clock we crossed a Village called Harounia and encamped near the Gardens which are many Harounia We made our Journey the shorter for fear of the heat We were obliged to keep Guard all night because of Thieves and Robbers yet we heard nothing but Chakales We parted from that place on Sunday the four and twentieth of August about two a clock in the morning keeping on still Eastward About three a clock we passed near to a Village called Adgia and about half an hour after six close by another called Imam-Esker where there is a Bridge Imam-Esker upon which they exacted for every Horse Mule or Ass an Ahassi and a Mahmoudi which is asmuch as a Chai and a Para though the Bridge it self never cost six Ahassis for it is onely made of two beams of Palm-tree that reach from side to side with some planks a-cross and half a foot of Earth over them the River that runs underneath being but a Brook no bigger than the River of Gobelines at Paris They call that due the toll of bridles We rested beyond the Bridge because not onely our People were afraid of the heat but they were besides informed that some Arabs waited for us on the way and therefore they held a Council to resolve what was fittest to be done Though they had no certainty of this yet they were strangely startled at it and the fear proceeded from some amongst them who knowing that we were to march through a narrow passage imagined that an hundred Arabs expected us there and yet they reduced this number afterwards to fifteen It was to no purpose to upbraid them with Cowardise telling them that let them be as many as they pleased we feared them not Though this resolution gave them some assurance yet they used their credit to make us stay for some Janissaries who who were going to Mendeli and in case they would
better Way though the Mountains still surrounded us but we mounted onely some small Ascents until marching Northwards we began an hour after to have ups and downs again over very high hills and in worse and more dangerous ways than hitherto we had seen but that lasted not an hour and then we came into a Plain encompassed with hills Standing away Eastwards we came by a Village called Chegiafar Chegiafar where there are a great many scattering houses of which part are built of rough Stone and Earth and some of Canes and Reeds covered with green branches those of Earth serve for the Winter and Rainy weather and then no body lived in them and the other of Canes are for the Summer that the Inhabitants may have the fresh Air. Amongst these houses there is also a great Mosque built of rough Stone and Earth We made no stop there but a little beyond it came and encamped near another Village consisting as the former in the Summer and Winter-houses but not in so great Number it is called Seraou Seraou and is distant from Chegiafar about a quarter of an hours march We arrived there a little after seven in the Morning the Village stands upon a rising ground at the foot whereof runs a lovely Spring-water Towards the Evening some of these Curds came to our Tent and bid us take heed to our selves because there were Robbers in the hills who creeping on their Bellies in the Night-time came and carried away what they could find We shew'd them our Arms which they seemed to be much in love with many amongst us believed that they themselves were the onely Thieves and that they came to give us this warning that we might not accuse them if we were robbed and also that they might see our Arms. We parted from thence on Saturday the thirtieth of August half an hour after two in the Morning We went up hill and down hill over exceeding high and troublesome Mountains until eight a Clock after that we marched for two hours in a plain environed with hills where we saw several black Tents and about ten a Clock we encamped under Trees in a place called Rengpereng Rengpereng near which a Brook runs There was close by a Village of Curds who brought us provisions We parted from thence on Sunday the last of August about four of the Clock in the Morning At first we marched Eastward amongst Woods of Chestnut-trees where there is great plenty of liquorice as there is all that Countrey over we kept going upward still but in very good and easie way In the Morning we saw a Field sowed with Rice About seven a Clock we encamped in a Plain where there are some Trees near a Hamlet of three or four Huts of Canes Goaour and this place is called Goaour We parted from thence the same day about seven at Night and by Moon-light marched Eastward in the Plain or Valley till past Midnight that we descended by an ugly way into a very low Plain where having travelled almost an hour we passed a little Water Having marched about another hour we passed a Stone-Bridge of one Arch under which runs a little River that I could not learn the Name of a little after we passed over another Bridge much alike standing upon the same River About half an hour after two in the Morning Munday the first of September we encamped at the end of that Bridge near to a Village called Arnoua Arnoua where there is a good Kervanserai of brick there are also several Stone-houses and as many Huts of Canes These Bridges seem to have been lately built and the River that runs under them has no other Name amongst the People of the Countrey but the Water of Arnoua There are so many Frogs in that Countrey that my Tent was always full of them though they were continually driven out We parted the same day half an hour after ten at Night and marched Eastward in fair way till half an hour after one a Clock in the Morning of Tuesday the second of September when we came to a very uneasie descent and very dangerous too especially being in the dark because the Moon was then set for three hours after we had pretty good way Goumedli a River We crossed several Brooks and a small River called Goumedli and our way lay Northwards About half an hour after four in the Morning having gone down hill a little we went away Eastward in pretty good way having for sometime a large Brook of running Water on our left hand Half an hour after five we descended into a great Plain where we marched about an hour still Eastward Then about half an hour after six we came and encamped near to a Kervanserai built by a Lady A quarter of a league from that Kervanserai Maidescht there is a Village built of stone called Maidescht and a little farther off than that Village Scheik-Hali-Kan-Kervanserai there is another Kervanserai called Scheik-Hali Kan Kervanserai from the Name of a Chan that built it We passed by it after we had dislodged from the other about half an hour after eight at Night We lookt upon it to be very fair and commodious especially because of a little River that runs close by it it is called from the Name of the Village Maidescht Soui We crossed over it upon a Bridge of one Arch which is built very steep and sharp as most of the rest are we then kept on our way Eastward in the same smooth Plain Wednesday the third of September a litttle after Midnight we went over a hill but the way was pleasant enough and then came into the Plain again About three a Clock in the Morning we passed a little River and an hour and a half after came to a Village called Poul Schah Poul-Schah that 's to say the Kings Bridge we put our selves under cover there in a Kervanserai The Kervanserais of Persia are much finer and more commodious than those of Turkey at least such as are on the great Roads The Kervanserais of Persia for I speak not of those in Towns the loveliest in all the Levant being in Bursa These Kervanserais of Persia are large square brick-Buildings above three fathom high the entry into them is by a Portico under which are shops where all things necessary for life are to be had Passing through that Portico one enters into the Court in the middle of this of Poul Schah there is a Fountain which is not to be found in others All round the Court there are great Arches about three fathom wide and one and a half or two fathom deep under which are Mastabez or stone Divans about two foot raised from the ground In the middle of the Front or if you will at the bottom of the Divan there is a door about two foot wide where one enters into a Room of the same bigness as the place under the
Arch without and that Chamber has its Chimney All together makes a pretty commodious apartment for the Mastabe serves for a Divan and Anti-chamber and the Chamber is for retiring into when one hath no mind to be seen and for securing ones Goods These appartments are separated one from another by a partition Wall about three foot thick On the back-side all round the Han are the Stables where the Horses may stand dry under roof aswell as the Men and there are besides on one side Arches with Mastabez and Chimneys where one may lodge when the appartments of the Court are taken up They enter into it by four Gates one at each Corner of the Court. The whole Fabrick is covered with a Terrass upon which one may walk all round and the way up to it is by two pair of Stairs which are on the two sides of the Portico I mentioned at the entry One may stay in these Kervanserais as long as he pleases and nothing to be payed for lodging but the Chambers are not shut having neither door nor window nor is there a bit of Timber in the whole except at the great Gate In this Kervanserai we found Apples Pears and ordinary Grapes besides another sort which are small and have no stones they are very good and are called Kischmisch Kischmisch Poul-Schah a River A few steps from that Han runs a River called Poul-Schah that 's to say Kings Bridge from the Name of a very fair high Bridge which King Abbas caused to be built upon it near to that Village to which it hath given the Name This Bridge hath six Arches whose Pillars are of Free-Stone to the height of five or six foot above the water And upon these Pillars there are as many little Arches more which have on each hand a good Pillar round on the inside but sharp towards the Water for cutting and breaking the force of it when it rises so high these Pillars reach to the top of the Bridge against which they rest This Bridge is in length an hundred and thirty six common paces from the first to the last Arch without comprehending the two Avenues which are paved as the Bridge is having side-Walls of the same materials four or five foot high and each of them about forty paces in length the breadth of the Bridge is about ten common paces All that Bridge is of brick except the Pillars with their sharp points and butteresses It is well built and kept in so good repair that there is not one brick wanting and it seems to be Brannero There are fair and good Fish taken in that River and they are commonly taken with Coculus Indicus much used in that Countrey they make it up with Paste to make the Fish drunk The Town where the Chan resides is about two miles distant from the Village it is called Kerman Schahon that 's to say the Kings Barns Kerman Schahon because the Countrey about bears plenty of Rice which Schah Abbas gave for the Zaret or Pilgrimage of Devotion that was made to the Mosque of Imam Hussein which I spoke of before But the Turk being Master of it at present the Rice is sent to Ispahan This is but an inconsiderable Town nevertheless it hath a covered Bazar well stored with Goods and Provisions for the Belly There is a Serraglio in it for the Chan or Governour The truth is though it make some better shew than the rest of the houses it is indeed of no great worth at least on the outside for I entered not the Gate but saw some Divans for taking the Air in We rested there all that day and the three following because the Chans Vizir for so they call the Officer who commands in his absence would not suffer us to go Watchmakers company inconvenient in Persia till first he knew whether the Chan would buy any Watches Wherein I observed that it is not good to travel in that Countrey with Watch-makers because in this manner they stop all Caravans till the Chan hath seen whether there be any thing that he has a mind to buy We parted not then till Saturday the sixth of September about eleven of the Clock at Night and we took our way Eastwards by a fair Road having near us to the left rocky hills very high and steep and to the right hand other Mountains at a little more distance We found on this way many People in companies coming and going which was far more pleasant to us than the ways through the Desarts Sunday the seventh of September about five a Clock in the Morning we past by a Village called Schechernow Schechernow that 's to say new Town where there is a fair Kervanserai with many stone-Buildings and several black Tents A little Water runs by it which divides it self into several Rivulets it is called Bisitoum Bisitoum and has its source an hundred paces from thence at the foot of a hill near to which we passed That hill thrusts out pieces of Rock separated from one another by Veins and these pieces are somewhat round sticking on the hill from the top to the bottom and appear like figures in relief The People of our Caravan told me that they were so many figures which Ferhad cut for the love of his dear Schirin Ferhad Schirin who had her Castle upon that hill This Ferhad was an excellent Sculptor in that Countrey who was so deeply in love with Schirin that he broke his heart and died for her Cosrouve Schirin His Amours are described in the Poem entituled Cosrouve Schirin whereof there is a Manuscript in the French King's Library at Paris About six a Clock we found a Bridge of four Arches under which runs a River called the Water of Schechernow and that 's the Name of the Bridge also they say that this Bridge was built by the same Person who built the Village of Schechernow Half an hour after we came to another Bridge of two Arches Chadiar under which runs a River called Chadiar but because it is very ill paved and has no Rails nor side-Walls we crossed the Water which is not a foot deep a little below the Bridge and encamped on a Plain on the other side where we had three Villages round us about two or three Musket-shot distant Zufear Calantar Sagas The Village to the North is called Zufear that to the West Calantar and the third which is to the South Sagas We were obliged to keep guard that Night for the Inhabitants of those quarters are reckoned so nimble at thieving that they 'll carry away a mans goods even from under his head and he not perceive it and they are so sharp at it and so obstinate that they are attentive in watching their opportunity not onely while all things be loaded but even untill the Caravan be gone We dislodged the same day half an hour after eleven at Night and kept on Eastwards in a
fair Road near hills we passed by many Rivulets on our right hand Munday Morning the eighth of September half an hour after five we came to a great bourg Sahna called Sahna We went through that Town and encamped without near the Gardens which are about it in great Numbers from whence they brought us fair Grapes Apples and Pears and furnished us under hand with a little Wine that we had not tasted since we left Mosul unless at Bagdad with the Fathers Capucins who make some privately for Mass for it is forbidden either to make or sell any And a little before I came to Bagdad an Armenian being catched there making Brandy had several hundred Bastinado's and whilst some beat him others poured his Brandy upon his head Now in all those places of Persia where there are no Christians not onely there is none to be found but even it is a Crime to speak of it nevertheless having demanded some of an Inhabitant of this Town who brought us Grapes after he had lookt about him on all hands to see if any body heard him he promised us a Jarr which he brought us a little while after It was sweet and red and had not sufficiently purged nevertheless it was good and delicious and so are their Grapes excellent Here we began to see sow'd Lands and a great many Gardens full of Vines and of all sorts of fruit and though it be in Curdistan Sofis yet Sofis also live there We parted from Sahna next day being Tuesday the ninth of September about two of the Clock in the Morning and about five we went up hill and down hill for a little while Half an hour after seven we crossed over a Bridge of four Arches under which runs a pretty broad River but shallow and it is called Camoutedona An hour after we came to a big Town Camoutedona a River Kenghever called Kenghever where we lodged in a Kervanserai This is a large Town well built and populous a Rivulet runs by it which they call the Water of Kenghever About it are a great many Gardens full of Fruit-trees of all sorts and it must heretofore have been a considerable place for there are the Walls of a Fortress still standing almost entire they are built of Flints and other very hard Stones that are both large and thick and some Towers still remain with several pieces of white Marble-Pillars of which the Capitals are so thick that it 's enough for three men to embrace them Amongst others at a little distance from a Tower close by this Fort there are some Port-holes for great Guns and a Gate towards the Countrey where two Pedestals of Marble are still remaining which formerly carried Pillars and these Pedestals which are four or five foot in length are placed at three or four foot distance from one another both upon a very thick Wall of fair Stone with a very lovely wreath on the outside So that in all probability these Pillars supported some Pavillion or Balcony for prospect or some thing else that was very weighty This Fortress is built upon an Eminence which affords a very distant prospect and the Town is the last place of Curdistan which terminates here Before I leave it for good and all The utmost bounds of Curdistan Curds I must say somewhat of the People that inhabit it The Curdi called anciently Carduchi live in the Summer-time in Huts made of Canes and Boughs of Trees and in Winter under Tents Their Countrey is so mountainous and so hard to be passed that I do not now wonder that the King of Persia every time that he went to besiege Bagdad instead of taking Cannon with him carried upon Camels metal to cast them obliging every Trooper besides to carry an Oque for it is absolutely impossible to have Cannon drawn along these ways Though these Curds lead a life much like the Arabs nevertheless they are more warlike and make very good use of Harquebuses nay in all places we past through there were always some of them who came and cheapened our Arms thinking they had been to be sold Amongst others one of them once offered me ten Abassis for my Fire-lock These Curds instead of Candle burn onely Oil of Naphta which is got in a place not far from Bagdad We parted from Kenghever the same day about half an hour after eleven at Night and in a very good Road marched Northwards About three a Clock in the Morning Wednesday the tenth of September we past over a fair Bridge of six Arches called the Bridge of Scheich-Hali-Kan Scheich-Hali-Kan from the name of a Chan that founded it the River that runs under it is called the Water of Scheich-Hali-Kan Bridge for to Bridges they give the Name of the Founder and to the Waters that run under them the Name of the Bridge An hour after we went by a Village which we onely saw by Moon-light but it seemed to me to be big and well built Having afterwards marched through a great Plain for a long while about seven of the Clock in the Morning we came to a Town called Asad Abad Asad Abad That Town or rather Burrough is of a vast extent and well built There are streight large Streets in it and in the middle of them a running Brook. The Entries into all the Houses are handsom though the Doors of many of them be but low and have many Gardens round them We lodged in the Fields without but close by the Town and parted from thence the same day about ten a Clock at Night directing our way full East Immediately after in very good way we went up a hill called Elouend Elouend it is so high that it took us a compleat hour to mount it and almost three quarters of an hour in coming down again on the other side After that we went by a little house of Rahdars where for every horse there are two Cabeghis of Caffare to be payed Then we marched above two hours and a half amongst Mountains and there after came into a Plain where having past by a great many Villages and crossed several Brooks and half an hour after five having left a Town called Zaga to the left hand Zaga two hours after we arrived at Hamadan where we lodged in a Kervanserai and payed a Bisti which is worth four Cabeghis a day for a Room We shall speak of the money of Persia in the description of Ispahan CHAP. II. Of the Road from Hamadan to Ispahan HAmadan is a very large Town but contains many void places Gardens and even ploughed Fields within it The houses are lovely and built onely of Bricks baked in the Sun There is no fair Street in it but that where they sell Stuffs Cloaths ready made and such like Commodities It is a streight long and broad Street and the shops of it are well furnished it lies near the Bezestein which is little but pretty well built This is a
considerable Town of Traffick and in former times was very strong it had a fair Castle which was a long time agoe demolished by the Turks who much ruined the Town also The Air is very bad here and so is the Water too there is no Wine to be found in this place but onely Brandy Many of our Caravan fell sick during the time we stayed there for my part I was taken with a looseness that soon after was followed by a Feaver which I carried with me to Ispahan where both held me above a Month and the Watch-maker that went with me fell into a Quartane-ague shortly after he arrived at Ispahan The Armenians have a Church in Hamadan but kept in bad order There is commonly a Chan who commands in that place but at that time there was none there onely a Deroga to whom the King sent a present of a Vest The ceremony of a Khalat or King's Vest while I was there There was no other Ceremony in it but that the Deroga went out about eight or nine a Clock in the Morning by the King's Gate so called because by that Gate they go to Ispahan and then advanced to a House about a quarter of a French League distant where he put on the Vest which the King sent him being of Cloath of Gold and presently returned to the Town amidst a Body of fifty or sixty of the chief Inhabitants on Horse-back who marched almost all a breast without any order whilst they were in the Fields Having stayed eight days at Hamadan we bargained with a Muletor for five Abassis for every saddle-Horse and for our Goods at the rate of eleven for the hundred Patmans of Tauris A hundred Patmans of Tauris are about six hundred weight the hundred Patmans of Tauris are near six hundred weight and that was a cheap bargain But the Muletor who perhaps repented what he had done resolved to stay for the Caravan with which we came and was not to depart till eight days after and we being told that there was an Aga come who guarded Butter and other Provisions that were going to the King we sent for his Muletor who furnished us with Saddle-horses for six Abassis and for our luggage we payed at the rate of fifteen Abassis for the hundred Patmans of Tauris To this beginning of a Caravan many others joyned who were as weary as we of staying at Hamadan so that all together we made a Caravan strong enough not to be afraid of Robbers For though they say there are none in Persia yet at that time there were several gangs of them abroad because the Chan of that quarter being dead there was no other as yet sent in his place We parted from Hamadan on Saturday the twentieth of September at five a Clock in the Morning and having past through a good part of the Town we went out by the King's Gate or the Gate of Ispahan taking our way Eastward We crossed several fair Waters and about seven a Clock a Bridge of five Arches under which runs a Rivulet that in the Winter-time swells high Having travelled one hour more over little hills we found two ways and not knowing which of the two to take because we were got a great way before the Caravan we were obliged Monsieur Jacob three Turks and my self to stay sometime for it After we had waited there above half an hour to no purpose we thought it not fit to return back for fear it might have taken another way and therefore at a venture all five of us took the way to the left hand Nischar and continued on till we came to a Town called Nischar by which we knew the Caravan was to pass We arrived there about three a Clock after Noon and took shelter in a wretched Kervanserai without the Town that was all ruinous All the furniture we had was a Coverlet which we spread under us that we might not lye upon the bare ground and a leathern Vessel which they call Matara to hold water in Matara for my man and all our baggage was with the Caravan We took patience however and in the mean time immediately after the Caravan had passed the Bridge it held along the River-side and came to lodge at a Village called Boulousch Kisar Boulousch Kisar Next day being Sunday the one and twentieth of September it parted from thence About two a Clock in the Morning and about six arrived at Nischar Having there payed a due of four Bistis a load it went on without stopping and we having joyned it again half an hour after nine encamped under Trees near a Village called Haran Haran where our Moucres gave us warning to keep good guard in the Night-time The truth is in the Day-time several Passengers stopt and at a distance considered our Arms and two hours after Night a man passing near to us and making no answer when he was asked who came there my man advanced towards him but then the Robber who came onely to see how Affairs stood said that he belonged to the Caravan which was immediately contradicted by some of our Company who told him that if he came that way again they would fire upon him Next day being Monday the two and twentieth of September we parted from that place about two of the Clock in the Morning and proceeding on still Eastward in good way we passed by several great Villages which we found every quarter of an hour almost and being come to a River above two fathom over which they call the River of Dizava we marched up it about half an hour and then having past over entered into a spacious Plain of which in two or three hours time we passed over a great part and came to a Town called Dizava so hid among Gardens which take up the whole breadth of the Plain that as a Curtain they not onely intercept the view of the Town but also of part of the Plain which reaches a good way beyond it An hour before we arrived there and being very near it we were fain to fetch a great compass to pass a Rivulet that was broad deep and very full of mud and then came to a little point which gave us a passage into Dizava where we kept marching on still along great Lanes made by Gardens on both hands that were well walled but without any Habitation and Dizava lies so hid that not a House of it is to be seen till you be in it though you were never so nigh so that he who did not understand the Map of the Countrey would think himself near a Forest for it is of a pretty large extent We past through a considerable part of the Town which is very ill built and about ten a Clock came to a good Kervanserai The ignorance of our Moucres was the cause of that compass we fetcht and besides all their Beasts both saddle and carriage Horses were so bad that it was impossible
to make them go faster than Asses so that we made but very small Journeys In the Evening we had a shower of rain that was presently over which was the first save onely a little mizling that we had seen fall since our departure from Aleppo Next day being Tuesday the three and twentieth of September about three a Clock in the Morning we set out again and continued our Journey Eastwards by very good way About seven a Clock we came into a very stony way betwixt rocky hills but it lasted not long about eleven a Clock we came to a large Village called Sari Sari and resolved to lodge in a very pretty and large Kervanserai but it was as full already as it could hold of Men and Beasts Wherefore it behoved us to betake our selves to another which was less bad and ruinous where we lodged very uneasily in the Stable amongst the Horses and Mules This Village is well built and I observed that the chief Wall of the Stable where we lodged was wholely built of black square Stones A kind of Marble about a foot long and about three fingers thick which when they are broken split into Tables like slate but thicker and I took them for black Marble The Watc-hmaker that was with us told me that men of his profession make use of this stone for polishing that which hath been filed before it be guilt Of this Marble are all the doors of houses as Pietro Della Valle says but there are few of them at Sari Some I saw at Dizava nay and I have seen of them in several places of Syria and I believe they make them of this Stone for want of Timber At Sari there is four Bistis to be payed a load This Evening there fell some rain again and it came to us accompanied with good old White wine which the Porter of the Kervanserai underhand sent for to the Village but his scruples were onely in formality For some Turks of our Caravan who had also bought of it found it to be so good that they sate by it merrily all Night till we were ready to depart which put them into so good a humour that for part of the way they did nothing but roar and sing like drunken Francks as they were till at length one of the gang tumbled off of his Mule and had almost broken his Neck but fell fast a sleep on the place About three a Clock in the Morning Wednesday the four and twentieth of September we parted from Sari About eight a Clock we passed by a Village called Dehile Dehile Mouclasabah Machat and an hour after by another called Mouclasabah and about ten a Clock we arrived at a Village named Machat where we sheltered our selves in a little Kervanserai We parted from thence next day being Thursday the five and twentieth of September at Midnight and by break of day passed through a Town called Scheher-ghird Scheher-ghird which seemed to me to be well built we then marched forwards till ten of the Clock through a large barren Plain there being no Water in it nor indeed any habitation that we could find At ten a Clock we came to a very fair Kervanserai called Bag Bag. the appartments whereof are very commodious and under the Gate there lives a man who sells all things necessary for life and he hath three little Rooms for his dwelling There are such Porters in all the Kervanserais of Persia but more especially there is need of one at this for there is no habitation about it and the nearest place is a Village to the right hand behind the hill Angouan called Angouan where much Tapistry is made and if they told me true is an Agatsch that 's to say Agatsch Farsang a league distant For the Persians count the way by Agatsch or Farsang which is one and the same Agatsch being the Turkish Word and Farsang the Persian and it is an hours Journey for a Horse-man but for us it is almost two nevertheless near to Ispahan they are so short that we travelled one an hour At this Kervanserai there are three Bistis payed a Load The lintels of the gates of it are made of one entire piece of that kind of Marble which I mentioned to be at Sari but it is not polished and without the gate there is on each side a Mastabe they are in length about six foot each and four or five foot high upon three of breadth the upper part of these Mastabez is of one whole piece of that Stone This Marble hath been dug about fifty paces from the gate out of a Rock a little higher than the ground at the root whereof there is a little Spring of Water which is all they have in that place to drink As I was walking about this Kervanserai I found little Marble-Stones white red spotted and of all sorts of colours Which makes me think that that place affords Marble of all colours and indeed the upper part of the Rock is almost all white We parted next day being Friday the six and twentieth of September about three of the Clock in the Morning and went up hill and down hill in pretty good way for the space of three hours I observed by the ways side several Rocks of black Stone rising a little out of the ground Black Stone which were all divided into Tables hardly thicker than blew Slates and much about the same colour but joyned very close together Half an hour after six we came into a great Plain where we found Water in three or four places and there we travelled till eleven a Clock when we arrived at a Village called Nichouan which we went almost quite through Nichouan and came to rest in a great Kervanserai pretty commodious but ugly and all built of pieces of unburnt greyish Earth There are two others in this Village which we past by they are small but seemed to me to be neater We stayed there the day following to refresh our Beasts and parted on Sunday the seven and twentieth of September about half an hour after nine at Night We travelled up hill and down hill by intervals but still in fair and soft way Sunday Morning the eight and twentieth of September half an hour before day we passed by a great Village called Fagasoun Fagasoun all that I could there observe in the darkness of the Night was that having gone over a Bridge of five Arches upon a small Rivulet we passed along the sides of several great Gardens where there is plenty of Water Half an hour after six in the Morning we came to another Village called Ithoua Ithoua where we lodged in a little Kervanserai all built of Clods of unburnt greyish Earth An hours travelling from thence there is a little Town called Ghulpaigan Ghulpaigan but we past not through it We left this Lodging on Munday the nine and twentieth of September about two a Clock in
the Morning and had pretty good way A little before day we went down into a very low and spacious ground all of white sand through which by what I could judge some great torrent must run when the snow melts for on both sides there are banks of Earth pretty high and steep we left that way soon after and going up hill a little came into a great Plain where having proceeded a little we stayed for the Caravan that was behind us there being none before but those who were light mounted The reason why we made that halt was because at a pretty distance we discovered on the Plain near the hills some Horse-men who kept still on the same ground and when we passed them they made a great smoak I know not the meaning of that signal but we understood afterwards that they were fifteen in company and had robbed a Caravan A quarter of an hour after we saw five Antelopes and at length about half an hour after nine we came to a good Kervanserai near to a Village called Arbane An hour after we had been there a Horse-man came in Arbane and made some turns there whereupon some of our company saying to one another that he was a robber and that they ought to lay hands on him he perceiving it went out of the Kervanserai and so put spurs to his horse and made haste to a Tree where two of his Comrades were About Midnight some Horse-men bounced at the Gate of the Kervanserai and because we would not open to them they made a great noise till the Gate was opened they were ten in company consisting of Persians Curds and Arabs they were all armed with Lances and some had hawks upon their Fists they asked if our Caravan was going to Ispahan and we asked them whither they were bound They said to Ispahan but when we asked them whence they came they would not tell but onely that they were going to Ispahan which made us think they were robbers and therefore many of our company slept not one wink though afterwards we came to understand that they were not robbers We set out about three a Clock next Morning and our ten Horse-men-stayed behind in the Kervanserai which made some think they onely came to plunder the Kervanserai and perhaps to cut our Throats About break of day we entered into a dangerous pass for robbing for it is a narrow way betwixt high Rocks behind which several men may lye hid and fire upon whom they please without being discovered We expected to have met with â—ouble here because there had been some Caravans robbed in this place and some said that there was an ambush there of forty Horse-men armed with Harquebuses the others would not have them to be so many We had in our Caravan six Harquebuses and several Bow-men and besides the Night before we were encreased by a Caravan of Camels guarded by five or six Horse-men with Harquebuses and some Bow-men but we were apprehensive that the Ten Horse-men whom we left behind might come and attack us in the rear whilst the rest set upon us in the Front In fine thanks be to God we found no robbers and in less than a quarter of an hour were got out of that pass the way much enlarging A little after we met two great Caravans that were coming from Ispahan one of Camels and the other of Horses and Mules and both guarded by several Horse-men armed with Harquebuses Afterwards we marched on in a Plain till about half an hour after ten Deha that we arrived at a Village called Deha where we lodged in Kervanserai A little before we entered into that Village we saw several Fields of Corn above a foot high already and I was told that they would reap it before Winter for they sow the ground a second time assoon as they have reaped Two harvests The truth is this last crop does not come to maturity and it is onely for the horses to which they give the green Corn to feed on Deha Deha is a Village where there are so many Kervanserais that it is almost nothing else It hath an old square Castle built of rough Stone with a large Tower at each Corner and one in the middle of one of the sides where the entry is They are all likewise built of rough Stone and some Bricks It hath two Gates to enter at each whereof are of one entire piece of that kind of Marble I mentioned before These Gates are about five foot high about four foot broad and two foot thick their Pivots which are of the same piece with the Gates turn below in the Lintel This Castle is all ruinous within and serves for no other use now but for a Store-house for wood hay and barley At Deha we found the ten Horse-men whom we left at Arbane they must have kept very wide of us for we saw them not all the way They complained that those of the Caravan which we met had taken them for robbers and fired at them We parted from Deha the same day at six a Clock at Night about eight we passed by a very fair and large Kervanserai called Asni Asni which has what others have not upon the Terrass on each side of the gate an arched room with a Balcony An hour after we found another called Ravat Ravat we saw also on our right hand several great Villages but though they be of large extent yet there are commonly but few dwellings in them for the most part of them are Gardens and sometimes that which appears to be a great Village is onely Gardens with some huts for lodging the Gardeners and their Families Wednesday the last of September a little after midnight some of our company who were on head saw seven or eight Robbers on Horse-back pass by on one hand and a little after four on the other who went and lay down at the foot of some hillocks on which the Moon shone Having fired two Musket shot at them three of our men went off to go and discover towards the other side of the hillocks on which the Moon did not shine what they might be A little after two Horse-men passed by us but being at a pretty good distance we said nothing to them Immediately we saw near to these hillocks where the Moon did not shine a great Troop of Horse-men our fore-riders went to view them and brought us word that it was the Caravan of Camels that came with us the day before and had got the start of us So that we thought our selves out of danger and therefore marched boldly on amongst very high and steep Mountains Half an hour after the way began to grow much wider making a kind of a plain where we found a Caravan of Camels with several Horse-men Having travelled in that plain till six a Clock in the Morning Tchalisiah we arrived at Tchalisiah which is onely two Kervanserais one before
another The Persian Apparel seemed to me to be more gay than that of the Turks but it is more clutterly and less commodious With a Turkish Habit one is immediately dressed whereas in this there must always be a Servant ready to tye the strings of the Caba and therefore the most part tye but one of them and leave the rest hanging The Persian Habit is likewise dearer and nevertheless they often change Cloaths whereas the Turks wear theirs several years and the Persians no longer than they find a spot upon them The Persians neat To the end they may be always neat they strip themselves assoon as they come home and change a Caba every day and at six Months end take one of those Cabas that they have worn already which is thought to be new because men do not remember they have seen it before they value a man for his neatness and good Cloaths They wear rings on their Fingers set with precious Stones but The Persians rings what seems to me to be very odd the men even the King himself wear no Gold rings upon their Fingers but onely Silver and none but Women wear Gold rings the men imagining that they are concerned in honour not to wear them I know not what reason they have for it and they themselves can give no good one All both high and low rub their hands and feet with Hanna The Persians paint their hands and chiefly in Winter they say that it is not so much for ornament but because it prevents the Chaps which are commoly caused by the cold and for that effect they work the Hanna in water to the consistence of morter that is somewhat hard and having wet their hands a little with fair water they spread upon them the Hanna wrought in this manner Hanna a dye and then wrap them up in linnen which they keep on all Night They who cannot reach so high as to dawb over their hands with it apply it at least to their fingers ends and heels When this stuff hath been well applied to the hands it lasts some weeks provided they be not washed for else it will quickly be gone The Persians suffer not their beard to grow long as the Turks do The Beard but they do not shave it they clip it onely with Cizzers leaving it half a fingers breadth long so that their Chin appears all black and in a manner prickly but they take special care to have thick and long Mustachoes They leave a tuff of hair on the Crown of their heads as the Turks do When they wear Mourning for any deceased Relation The Persians mourning their Mourning consists in a Girdle the two ends whereof hang down to their Stomack where they cross them As to the Women when they mourn for their dead they do it for a long while as well as in Turky and all over the Levant For during several Months as often as any woman comes to visit them they renew their lamentations some weeping others rehearsing the praises of the deceased with a low Voice and sighing but in such a tone as one would think they were a singing and others howl and cry as loud as they can in so much that all these different Voices mingling together make a kind of a Musick that moves those who are not concerned to laughter rather than compassion and which by the continuance of it becomes very uneasie to their Neighbours I have sometimes heard them make a noise in this manner a whole Day and a Night without intermission Besides that every time they go to the grave of the party deceased nay after the year is out they renew their Cries as if he were but just then departed For the men when any of their Relations die they rend their Caba before as a sign of grief and for the space of seven Days give alms which the women likewise do All the women of Persia are pleasantly apparelled The Apparel of the Persian women when they are abroad in the Streets all both rich and poor are covered with a great Veil or Sheet of very fine white Cloath of which one half like a forehead-Cloath comes down to the Eyes and going over the head reaches down to their heels and the other half muffles up their face below the Eyes and being fastened with a Pin to the left side of the head falls down to their very shoes even covering their hands with which thy hold that Cloath by the two sides so that except the Eyes they are covered all over with it Within doors they have their face and breasts uncovered VVhat the Persian women uncover but the Armenian women in their Houses have always one half of their face covered with a Cloath that goes a thwart their Nose and hangs over their Chin and Breasts except the Maids of that Nation who within doors cover onely the Chin untill they be martied It is not to be thought strange that the women are so hid for all over Persia as well as in Turky they observe the custome of not shewing themselves to men and that so strictly that when a man marries he sees not his Bride untill the wedding-day at Night and the Roman Catholicks observe the same Custom Whilst I was at Schiras the Carmelites there married a Georgian Widow to a Roman Catholick a Native of Schiras Nephew to the Signora Maani-Gioerida the first Wife of Signor Pietro della valle the truth is I was a little surprized to see that woman present her self before the Father that married her all veiled and covered over however she was married in this manner I cannot tellw hether this method will be liked by our French Ladies who take as much pans to shew themselves as the Persians do to hide themselves Rings in the Noses of the Persian women Their way of travelling Caschaves VVay of sitting Night-cloaths In Persia as well as in the rest of the Levant the Women put rings through their Noses which they pierce with Needles When they travel it is commonly upon Camels on which they are placed in Caschaves that are a sort of covered Panniers they put on each side of a Camel or Mule I have already spoken of that Engine in the relation of my first travels upon occasion of our going from Caire to Jerusalem Within doors women as well as men sit like the Turks and all the Levantins in the same manner as Taylers do in Europe They lye also as all the Orientals do upon a quilt on the ground without sheets they have always on a Smock and a pair of Drawers and many times also an Arcalick or Wast-coat Bed-covering they cover themselves with a quilted Coverlet set with Oilet-holes and over it a Cloath painted with Flowers and other Trifles these they call Indian Cloaths Indian Cloaths because most of them are made in the Indies nevertheless a great many are also made in Persia and the Flowers and
when the King sends a red Kalaat to a Governour it is a sign he has a mind to put him to death yet that is not infallible for sometime before I came to Schiras the King sent the Visier of Schiras a compleat Kalaat of which all the parts were red and this made all men think that he had sent for him to cut off his head and nevertheless it proved otherwise in the Sequel Schaters or Foot-men Amongst the lowest Officers of the King are the Schaters who are as the King's Foot-men To be admitted into this Office besides credit one must be an extraordinary good Foot-man and give proofs of it and therefore when a man desires to be received into the King's Service in quality of a Schater The master-piece of a Schater and hath made interest enough to be admitted to his tryal he must run a race which is to be his Essay He starts at Hali Capi and twelve times in one day runs to a certain place towards the Hills a long French League and a half distant from Hali Capi. At the end of this Carrere there are men who have several Arrows ready with little penons hanging at them and every time the Schater comes they give him one of these Arrows which he carries to Hali Capi so that coming and going twelve times he brings with him twelve Arrows and runs about six and thirty French Leagues from Morning to Night In the mean time there is Kourouk in the Meidan and all along the way he goes The Elephants and a great many horse-men are ranked in the Meidan where there is a noise of trumpets and timbrels all day long All the great men make presents to the Schater some ten or twenty and some thirty Tomans and all this to ingratiate themselves at Court They who have nothing to give The People are forced to come to the Kourouk of the Schater A Tax of the Armenians for the Schater are nevertheless present nay the People are forced to come in so much that at Giulfa they drive all out of doors with Cudgels and oblige them to come to this spectacle none but old men women and children are excused The Armenians are also taxed in a certain Summ which they are to present to the Schater When I was at Ispahan there was one of those races and the Armenians were taxed in thirty Tomans All bring their presents to Hali Capi whilst the Race is running Some of the Countrey would needs have perswaded me that the presents which are made to the Schater who runs might amount in all sometimes to two thousand Tomans but others who were more moderate told me two or three hundred Tomans This permission to run is earnestly sollicited for and he must have favour that can obtain it He that ran whilst I was at Ispahan had been six Months in suing out the permission Monsieur Diegre Master of the Dutch Factory at Ispahan a very knowing man so curious and exact that he omits not the smallest Circumstance as much as possibly he can in describing all things punctually measuring even publick places Mosques and Gardens almost to half a foot and more exactly too if he can set out one day from Hali Capi which is the place where the Schaters start who are to perform their tryal and went to that place where they take their Arrows keeping pace on horse-back with his Foot-man that went before He told me that he was an hour and a half on the way and that having obliged his Foot-men to reckon all their steps and to mark them by hundreds he found that they had made four thousand Geometrical paces which make a German mile and is a French League and a half So that the tryal of the Schaters is in travelling thirty six French Leagues from Morning to Night The Schaters make thirty six French Leagues The Chans make their Schaters run also The Chans in their Governments make their Schaters also run and all make them presents there being no difference but in more and less When a Schater would be received into the Service of any Lord he performs his tryal which is to goe an Agatsch from the Town where he finds a man that gives him an Arrow marked with a certain mark that he may not play the cheat he puts it through a hole in his coat on the shoulder and so brings it to the Town where he leaves it and returns back for another and in one day betwixt Sun and Sun he must go and bring twelve and so run four and twenty Agatsch At Night they count the Arrows which he hath brought and if there be twelve of them he is received He rests not all day long neither eats for that would hinder his going but is continually in motion save sometimes when he drinks Sorbet I have been assured that there are some of these Lords Schaters who in a frolick sometimes will carry on their shoulders four and twenty Man 's of Tauris which make a hundred and forty pound Weight or thereabouts and with that load travel thirty Agatsch a day that 's to say thirty French Leagues The King has a great many hunting Dogs of all kinds besides which Hunting dogs Panthers Ounces or Dgious Antelopes he makes use also of the Ounce or Panther in hunting of Antelopes That is a very tame Beast and does no hurt to men in Persian it is called Dgious and is brought from Arabia They carry it commonly on Horse-back behind a Man who holds it by a Chain about the Neck When they are to hunt him they keep a Cloath before his Eyes untill they have discovered an Antelope and when they come within five or six hundred paces of it they take off the Cloath and Chain and shewing him the Antelope let him go He creeps softly on his Belly towards the Antelope hiding himself behind the Hedges when he can and when he is got within about sixty paces of it he runs at it with skis and great leaps and fails not with three or four bounds to catch it and if he catch it not then he pursues no farther and is so ashamed that they have much adoe to make him hunt any more that day But to comfort him the Huntsmen tell one another aloud that he hath not seen it and that if he had seen it he would not have missed believing that he understands their Compliment very well They keep all the Dogs and wild Beasts too in a House by the River-side near the Bridge on the right hand as you go to Giolfa And on the left hand before a Garden on the River-side there is a Volary full of rare Fowl as Estradges Peacocks and others Volary Hawks The King has also many Hawks and I was assured that he had above nine hundred which they feed generally with Fowl giving them Mutton but once a Week The Persians are very expert in making of Hawks and commonly they use Falcons to flie at
of a Cherry and is very hard and round so that there is hardly any thing but a skin over the stone The Fruit being ripe is wrinkly and inclining to an Orange-colour it is pretty sweet but woolly I believe it grows in Italy by the name of Azzarole and is perhaps the Rhamnus Azzarole Rhamnus Folio sub rotundo Livas an Herb. folio sub rotundo fructu compresso Jonston Amongst Plants there is a certain Herb in Persia called Livas which hath a very curled Leaf somewhat like a Beet or like curled Coleworts but it is much more curled the stalk of it is like the stalk of an Artichoak and is very sharp they Eat of it in the Spring as a delicious food many will have it to be the Rhuebarb but it is not The End of the Second Book TRAVELS INTO THE LEVANT PART II. BOOK III. Of the Country of Schiras and other places under the Dominion of the King of Persia CHAP. I. Of the Road from Ispahan to Schiras AFTER almost five Months stay at Ispahan Departure from Ispahan I made ready to continue my Travels forwards and parted from thence the four and twentieth day of February 1664 / 5. with a Caravan wherein there were about fifty Mules a great part of them belonging to Monsieur Tavernier and the rest to Armenians who took the occasion of our going We took Mules for our Goods at the rate of five Abassis for an hundred Man 's of Tauris for our selves we had Horses for the Muletors scrupuled to let us have Mules to Ride on however they were obliged to spare one for my Servant who carried part of my things with him for they reckon a man but for thirty Man 's comprehending therein four or five Mans of Bagage We set out then from Giolfa Tuesday at Noon and past by Hezar Dgirib taking our way streight East at One of the Clock we Encamped by a Kervanseray called Tahhtpoulad and Babaruk which is near the burying place of the Mahometans We parted from that place the same day Tahhtpoulad Babaruk half an hour after Nine of the Clock at Night and held our way streight South-East over a Plain which at the entry is streightned a little by Hills on both sides and then opens into a pretty large Champain there grows not one Pile of Grass in it and in some places there are great pieces of white Earth of Natural Salt. This Salt is made of Rain-water Natural Salt. which incorporating with that Salinous Earth produces a Salt that works out of the Surface of it We marched in that Plain till about Four a Clock in the Morning Wednesday the five and twentieth of February and then ascended a little Hill called Ortschin Ortschin a little Hill. that is to say Stairs it is not high but yet very difficult to get up being all steps in a very slippery Rock which hath given it that name we were a full half hour in that passage not only because it behoved us to goe one by one but also because several Mules fell and threw their burdens which we must load again and all this by Star-light which in Persia commonly shine so clear that one may Travel by them even when there is no Moon-shine we afterwards continued Travelling amongst Hills till it was day that we entered into a great Plain as barren as the former wherein we marched on till half an hour after Eight when being arrived at a Village called Mayar we Lodged in a Kervanseray this place is eight long Agatsch from Babaruk Mayar is a ruinated Village which was formerly of note and had many Gardens about it that produced plenty of Fruit but some years since an Eatmad Doulet cut off their water to bring it all into a Garden which he had in those Quarters so that since that time nothing Grows there and they bring what they want from other Villages nor have they any other water to drink but what they get out of a great Pool hard by Mayar is the beginning of the Country of Fars or real Persia Schairza at that Village begins the Country which is properly Persia We parted from thence next day being Thursday the six and twentieth of February about Three a Clock in the Morning and continued our way over the same Plain about Five in the Morning we crossed a small running water Half an hour after Nine we passed through a little Village called Schairza where there is much Sowed Land and many Gardens in one of those Gardens there is a Pond of Spring-water which falls down from the Hills that are over it it is so full of Fish that from thence the Garden hath taken the name of Hhaouz-Mahi which signifies a Fish-Pond but there is a Dervish that hinders people from catching them Keeping on our way about half an hour after Ten in the Morning we came near to a Town called Komschah Komschah five Agatsch from Mayar there is Wine there and several Kervanserays in one of which we Lodged out of the Town We parted from thence next day being Friday the seven and twentieth of February at Three a Clock in the Morning but no sooner were we gone but we were forced to turn back again because there was a Chan upon the Road going to Schiras with his Haram The meeting of a Chan with his Haram that is to say his women and therefore we could not goe on for the jealous Persians fuffer no man to come near the Road where there women are So then we came back and having fetched many compasses about another way three quarters of an hour after we fell into the High-way again which was still a Plain and we kept on marching still almost South wards but with a piercing cold Wind we found several Brooks on our way and the ground being pretty good in that Country so soon as it was day we saw some Villages on our Right Hand and about Nine of the Clock arrived near to a Village called Maksoud Beghi Maksoud Beghi five Agatsch distant from Komschah we Lodged in a new Kervanseray that of the Village being demolished Next Morning about a quarter after Two of the Clock we set forward on our Journey again over the same Plain we had the day before at break of day we passed by a little Castle built of Stone with some round Towers where there is a Village hard by with Gardens and a Kervanseray Amnebad that place is called Amnebad it is distant from Maksoud-Beghi three Agatsch and as far from Yez-de-Kast This Castle was built by Imam-Couli-Chan who was Chan of Schiras in time of the great Schah-Abbas Keeping on our way about Eleven of the Clock we arrived at Yez-de-Kast a little Town or Burrough three Agatsch distant from Amnebad and six from Maksoud-Beghi we went and Lodged in a Kervanseray a little beyond it Tez-de-Kast Yez-de Kast is very little having but only one Street it is
built upon a narrow Rock which stretches out in length from North-East to South-West this Rock is very steep so that it is almost as broad on the top as at the bottom especially on the North-West side it is in some places above seven or eight Fathom high particularly on the South-East side at the Foot of this Rock on the same South-East side there are some Gardens and some steps farther runs a little River near to which is the Kervanseray built of burnt Bricks and over the Gate there is a pretty convenient Lodging-House it stands at the Foot of a high Rock that is to the South of it from which sometimes great pieces fall and are to be seen below most of them being as big as Houses The Village of Yez-de-Kast takes up the whole Surface of the Rock on which it stands as well in length as in breadth it hath no other Walls but the Walls of the Houses which are three or four Stories high and some higher all built of Stone This Town is in manifest danger sometime or other of falling down topsie turvy all at once being so high and having nothing to support it and indeed the Inhabitants mistrust it for about ten years since they began to build another Town at some distance from the Rock and to the Northward of it and when I passed by it on my return in the Year one thousand six hundred sixty and seven a great many Houses were already finished and new ones going up all forsaking the other Seat whereas when I past it first in the Year one thousand six hundred sixty five there was not so much as one House begun The Gate of Yez-de-Kast is on the South-West side where the ground about is as high as the Rock it is but little so that not having observed it at first coming I went from the Kervanseray to the Town climbing up the Rock on the South-East side betwixt the Gardens and after much climbing up I entered by a little Gate and went on above a hundred steps in a covered way that receives no light but by ugly holes and is by consequence so dark that one must groap along as they go in it I durst proceed no farther for fear of losing my self or entering into some House by mistake and so for that time I was obliged to turn back again by the same way I came but it is not so when one enters the Town by the other Gate The Land about Yez-de-Kast bears the best Corn in Persia and indeed they make most excellent Bread there the Inhabitants as they say mingling dry Pease with the Corn which makes the Bread so good There are several fair Tombs here built in Fashion of Domes Sunday the first of March we parted from that place half an hour after midnight and took the upper way for there are two ways the one on the Left Hand East-wards which is called the lower way and the other on the Right Hand to the West side which they call the upper way because it lies among Hills in the Winter-time when this way is filled up with Snow they are obliged to go the lower way which is the longer by a days Journy but being assured that the upper way was open we took it and for that end when we set out from the Kervanseray we held Westward for some time till we came to a place where the way leads up that Hill at the Foot whereof the Kervanseray stands being got up we marched in a Plain betwixt little Hills covered with Snow streight South-East until about Three a Clock we mounted up a Hill where the ascent is not long and the descent shorter but the way very bad and therefore it is called Chotali-Naar-Schekeni Chotali-Naar-Schekeni that is to say the Hill that pulls off the Horses shoes we came afterward into a pretty good way betwixt little Hills all white with Snow at day break we passed by a little Castle called Gombez-Cala where there is a Village also but ruined Gombez-Cala Half an hour after Nine we entered into a Plain in which we Travelled on till after Eleven that we came to a Village where we Lodged in a Kervanseray This Village is called Dehi ghirdon that is to say Village of Nuts Dehi ghirdon not that it abounds in that Fruit for having informed my self I learnt that the Nuts they eat there come from Lar however I took the pains to ask the reason why it was so called but all the answer I could get was that that was the name of it it is seven Agatsch distant from Yez-de-Kast We parted from Dehi-ghirdon Monday the second of March about midnight and after two hours and a halfs Journey past by a ruinous Kervanserai beyond which we marched on in a Plain covered over with Snow where there was but one Path open and that all Frozen about seven of the Clock we crossed over a little Bridge of five Arches under which runs a River two Fathom broad and travelling on still in that white Plain we arrived about Noon at a Village called Keuschkzer that is to say the Silver-Pavillion there are two Kervanserais there Keuschkzer the one old and the other all new well built of Free-Stone and burnt Bricks with many embellishments and very commodious Lodgings and Stables near which also there are Appartments for the Winter and in these we Lodged Keuschkzer is seven long Agatsch distance from Dehi-ghirdon the Land about is very good being Sowed with Corn there are about it also a great many Meadows where the Kings Horses are sent to Grass in the Season It is always cold there and the Snow lyes all the year round upon the neighbouring Hills The Inhabitants of that Village are Circassians they make Wine and sell it but they have the Grapes from Maain of which we shall Treat in its proper place Next Morning about half an hour after Four we went on our Journey and Travelled in a way covered with Snow and full of holes but we found it worse when the Sun was up and the ground began to Thaw especially about Eleven of the Clock when we entered amongst the Hills which being full of Dirt and Stones made the way as bad as it could be This passage makes that they goe not that way in the Winter-time for in the Summer all these ways are good we kept on always ascending a little till about One a Clock that we went down Hill a good way at the the bottom of that descent a great Brook rises out of the Ground a good Fathom in breadth the water whereof is very clear this Brook runs by a Village called Asoupas Asoupas where we arrived half an hour after two in the afternoon and there we were very ill Lodged in a nasty Kervanserai this Village is five Agatsch distant from Keuschkzer and has a sorry old ruinous Castle upon a little Hill the Inhabitants are Circassians who were Transported thither
that was a building a Rich man of Schiras having left by Will money for that purpose That place is called Abgherm which signifies hot water Abgherm because the water there is a little warm it gave some of our Company a looseness but has plenty of Fish in it This place which is but four Agatsch from Main was but half of our usual days Journey however our Beasts being tired we stayed there till next day the seventh of March when we parted half an hour after Two in the Morning and put on before the Caravan that we might get to Schiras the same day There are several ways that lead to it but we kept still to the Left crossing over many Brooks about half an hour after six we came to a Causey above two Fathom broad and two thousand Paces long all well Paved with Arches in several places and chiefly in the middle where there is a Bridge an hundred Paces in length under which runs a small branch of the River of Main Poligorgh that Causey is called Poligorgh Half an hour after Seven we saw a sorry Kervanserai but a little beyond it there is a very good one which is extraordinary large and well built with many embellishments at each corner there is a little Tower the Gate is fair and high adorned with many pieces of Marble on which there are Inscriptions The Appartments of this Kervanserai are very commodious but it is so infested with Gnats that there is no being in it It was built by a Chan of Sciras who to take off the Gnats built but to no purpose a large Garden by it it is called Agassef Agassef and is three Agatsch from Abgherm its common name is Poligourg that is to say the Woolfs Bridge or Poligord We went on The way that leads to Tchebelminar Badgega and an hour after left a broad way on the left Hand which goes streight to Tchebelminar and that is the way to it from Schiras About half an hour after Two we came to a Kervanserai called Badgega three Agatsch from Agassef there we found several Horses Camels and Mules which the Vizir of Schiras sent as a present to the King for the Neurouz for it is the custom as we have already observed that all the Grandees make great Presents to the King Present for the Neurouz or a New-Years-Gift the day of the Neurouz or Spring which is the two and twentieth of March just so as New-Years Gifts are given in France on the first of January We rested in that place till Three in the Afternoon when we parted to goe to Schiras two great Agatsch distant At first we went up a great Hill and then saw to our Left hand a Dome somewhat ruinous under which there are some Tombs close by runs a very clear Brook shaded by several great Planes and many little Pomegranate-Trees which render that place extraordinarily pleasant Having Travelled near two hours in very stony way and crossed several lovely Brooks about Five a Clock at night we came to a place from whence there is a very pleasant prospect of the City for two Hills there drawing near together at the end make a narrow passage beyond which are Gardens full of lovely Cypresses and then the Town which lyes in a Plain from North to South so that it yields a most delightful prospect After we had a little advanced betwixt those two Hills we saw a great Reservatory of water which is pretty ruinous the water is stopt by a thick Wall almost two Fathom broad supported by two spurs of the same thickness which with the Wall from the bottom of the Ditch are almost three Fathom high the Reservatory was formerly much of the same depth but is at present almost filled up with the Earth that the water has brought into it the Wall hath been made to serve for a Bank to stop the waters that in Winter fall from the Hills and running too violently through that streight beat down all that stood in their way but it is dry in the Summer-time Arrival at Schiras at length we came to the City-Gate which is fair and well built CHAP. II. Of Schiras THE first thing we found upon our entry into Schiras was a great broad Street on each side bordered by Gardens with little pretty neat Houses over the Gates of them having advanced in that Street about a quarter of an hour we came to a large Stone-Bason full of water and of an Oblong Figure being about twenty or twenty five Fathom in length and more than fifteen in breadth Continuing in the same Street you see a lovely Mosque whose Dome is covered with blew Varnished Tiles Joyning to this Mosque there is a burying-place Planted with fair Trees with a round Stone-Bason full of water which renders the place very pleasant so that there are always people taking the Air in it with their Pipes of Tobacco a little farther there is a Bridge of five Arches under which runs a small River and onward in the same Street you come to a covered Bazar that puts an end to it this Street is but as a Suburbs to the City which at that place begins We struck off to the Left and alighted at the little House of the Reverend Fathers Carmelites where all the Francks goe The City of Schiras heretofore Schirsaz and which many will have to be Cyropolis is properly the Metropolis of the Province of Persia it lyes in a most pleasant and fertile Plain that yields the best Wine in Persia On the East it is at the Foot of a Hill covered with several sorts of Fruit-Trees amongst which are many Orange and Limon-Trees intermingled with Cypresses it is about two hours walk in Circumference The Circumference of Schiras and lyes from North to South it hath no Walls but only a scurvy Ditch and that is all it needs having no Enemies to be afraid of it is watered by a River which is but little and yet subject to overflowings when that happens the Inhabitants hinder it from breaking into their Gardens and carrying away their Walls by casting up Dykes to stop it they make them with Couffes Couffes that is to say great Panniers made of bruised Canes like Palm-Tree-Leaves which they fill with Earth and Stone and that hinders the passage of the water very well The Streets of Schiras are for the most part somewhat narrow though there be some fair ones having in the middle lovely Canals bordered with Stone through which a very clear Rivulet runs There are a great many fair covered Bazars long and broad with great Shops on each side well furnished with all sorts both of Indian and Turkish Commodities and every Commodity hath its particular Bazar It hath many large well built Kervanserays as to the Palaces they make no shew on the outside no more than in the rest of the Levant but all their beauty is within the Palace of the Chan himself
where one may take the Air under the shade of Orange-Trees which are prodigiously big and bear much Fruit. There they have plenty also of Limon Pomegranate Date and other Fruit-Trees of all sorts nay and Vines also and the River runs in a bottom by the back of the Village in short it is a very agreeable place especially to those who have Travelled over large barren and dry Countries this Village is three Agatsch from Paira We left that pleasant Quarter Friday the Twentieth of March half an hour after one a Clock in the morning keeping still South-Eastwards in our way but a little toward the South in a fair even and smooth Road about four of the Clock we crossed a large Brook of running water which comes from the River of Paira below Chafer and a little after we crossed a Canal of running water over a little Bridge We afterwards crossed several other little Brooks having always to our Right Hand a great many Villages about break of day it behoved us to pass one large Brook more and about six a Clock in the Morning we found a little House where Rahdars lived about two or three Musket-shot from thence at the foot of a Hill Tadivan there is a Village call Tadivan where the River of Paira loses it self and ends Families of Arabs Upon that Road we met several Arabs with their Wives and Children on Camels which carried all their baggage also they were driving their Flocks of Sheep and Goats Since our departure from Schiras we dayly met such and they came from about Gomron and Lar. These Arabs Lodge under black Tents and have vast Flocks wherein consists the greatest part of their substance and that is partly the reason that they have no fixed Habitation and that they even remove from one Country into another in the different seasons of the Year just as some Birds doe For in the Spring they leave the Country of Lar and other places thereabout where the Heat is too great and packing up bag and baggage betake themselves with their whole Families towards Couchouzer which is a Village I have mentioned with very good Land about it and when Winter begins to draw nigh they pack up their Houses again and with their Flocks return towards Lar and Gomron where it is never Cold. It is not only the Heat that in the Summer-time drives them out of the hot Countrys but also the scarcity of water for they need a great deal for their Flocks They are almost all Black both men and women have long black Hair and cover not their Faces About Nine a Clock in the Morning we entered into stony way where we kept marching till half an hour after Ten that we arrived at a little Kervanseray called Mouchek Mouchek standing by it self and built in stony ground surrounded with Hills about some hundred paces behind this Kervanseray there is a great round Cistern four or five Fathom in Diametre and is very deep it is covered with a great Dome of rough stone that hath six Entries by so many Doors that are round it by which they go in to draw water which in the Spring-time is so high that it comes almost up to the Doors swelling so high by the Rain-water in the Winter-time by means of a Trench that comes from a neighbouring Hill at each Door there are steps to go down to the bottom when the water is low for there is no other water in that place They make Cisterns besides in those Quarters Cisterns after another manner they are of an Oblong Square covered with a long Convex Vault shaped much like the Roof of a Coach with a Door at each end and one of these ways are all the Cisterns from that place to Bender built We parted from that Kervanseray which is six Agatsch distant from Chafer Saturday the one and twentieth of May half an hour after Two a Clock in the Morning and had stony way till about Four after that we found a good Road which led us full South about half an hour after Five we past by the Walls of a ruinated Kervanseray with a Cistern adjoyning it about Seven a Clock we found some Brooks and then Travelled amongst good Corn-Fields until half an hour after Ten when having passed by a great many Gardens we arrived at a large Kervanseray Dgiaroun which is about an hundred paces from a little Town called Dgiaroun and is hardly worth a good Village however there is a fair Bazar in it This Town is on all Hands encompassed with Gardens full of Palm-Trees which there are so numerous and grow so near one another that they make a great Forrest and to say the truth I never saw so many together in one place Tamarisks besides the Tamarisks which are likewise plentiful in that place They have many Wells there and draw their water with Oxen as in all the rest of Persia in the manner I have described when I treated of Mosul There is a Cistern near the Kervanseray like to that of Mouchek but it is bigger having at least seven or eight Fathom in it Diametre it has a little house belonging to it which consists of a Kitchin and a Lodging-Room for the use of such as will not Lodge in the Kervanseray or cannot when it is full this place is five Agatsch distant from Mouchek there we began to feel the heat though in the Mornings a little before Sun rising we had pretty cold Winds before the Gate of the Kervanseray there is one of those Ox Wells with a great trough for watering the Horses but it is not good for men who in the Town drink running-water We stayed there all that day and the following and departed Monday the three and twentieth of March half an hour after midnight we took our way Westward by a very stony Road about an hour after we found a Cistern covered with a steep Roof half an hour after two we began to ascend the Hill of Dgiaroun The Hill of Dgiaroun to the South it is very high and the ascent not difficult save only that the way is full of stones but the higher one goes the worse it is and besides there is danger from Precipices that are on one side of it the truth is they have built little breast-walls about two foot high in some places to keep the Mules from falling down there one may see wild bitter Almond-Trees and other Trees of the Mountains We went up three or four times and down as often and the Sun found us in this exercise about five a Clock we came to a Cistern covered with a Dome and an hour after to another with a steep Roof Half an hour after seven we were passed our up Hills and down Hills but the way was still stony and bad at length about nine of the Clock we came to a little Kervanseray standing all alone near to which are two Cisterns the one covered with
a Dome three or four Fathom in Diametre wherein there are three Doors and as many Windows the other has a steep Roof this place is called Tschai-telhh Tschai-telhh that is to say bitter Well because of a Well not far from that Kervanseray whose water is bitter There is besides another Well behind the Kervanseray but it is dry and this place is six Agatsch from Dgiaroun Heretofore they went not by this Hill but struck off to the East and went round it and the Camel-drivers still take that way but because of five days Journey of Desart Horse-men and Muletors chuse rather to suffer the fatigue of a worse way but shorter over the Hill. Next Morning Tuesday about half an hour after four we set forward again directing our march Southwards about seven a Clock we descended into a very low place by very bad way that Hill is called Chotali Hasani Chotali Hasani or Chotali Mahhmaseni or Chotali Mahhmaseni it goes by both names towards the bottom of that descent we found a little Brook that runs out of the Ground and discharges it self into a square Bason at some few paces from the source being come down we Travelled through a very stony Plain about half an hour after Nine we came to a fair Kerva-seray standing alone by it self and called Momzir having a great square Bason before the Gate Momzir which is always filled full by a Brook that runs into it this Kervanseray is four Agatsch from Tschai-telhh we made no stop there because we found no body to sell us Provisions either for Men or Beasts so we continued our march in the stony Plain till about an hour after having found a little Brook on our Left Hand we entered about Noon into a great smooth Plain where we suffered much heat we Travelled on South-Eastward until about two of the Clock that we found a little Kervanseray close by a Village called Dehidombe Dehidombe that is to say the Village of the tail where there are some Palms and Tamarisk-Trees They drink no water there but out of a Cistern near the Kervanseray which is three or four Fathom in Diametre and covered by a Dome with six Doors this place is three long Agatsch from Momzir and is the last of the Government of Schiras after which we enter into that of Lar. We parted from thence on Wednesday the five and twentieth of March about half an hour after four in the Morning and marched over a very even Plain till half an hour after seven when we arrived at a Kervanseray at the end of a large Village called Benaru lying at the foot of the Hill that is to the right of it Benaru upon which on the other side of the Kervanseray are the ruins of many folid Buildings that reach from the top to the bottom of the Hill and seem to have been some considerable place in this Village there is plenty of Palms and Tamarisk-Trees and a great many Cisterns it is two Agatsch distant from Dehidombe We left it next day being Thursday at one a Clock in the Morning and Travelled in stony way until half an hour after two that we came into a fair fmooth way where having Travelled on till five we arrived at an ugly little Kervanseray called Dehra where there are some Rhadars we paid nothing there because of an order which Monsieur Tavernier had to pay nothing in Persia Without stopping at that place we continued our Journey but by very stony way about six of the Clock we were got amongst the Hills where having gone up Hill and down Hill until eight a Clock we came into a Plain which lasted till near nine Bihri that we arrived at a great Village called Bihri where many Palms and Tamarisk-Trees grow there are several Cisterns there but the water of them is full of Worms and therefore one must be careful to strain it through a Cloath We Lodged in a fair new built Kervanseray in that Village this is one of the lovliest Kervanserays in all Persia The fair Kervanseray of Aivaz Chan. not only for the solidity of the Fabrick being built of rough Stone and hard Flint but also for its neat Portal large square Court many spacious Rooms with several conveniences for securing Goods and fair Terrasses to which they go up by great and broad Stair-Cases In fine every thing in it is magnificent very neat and commodious even to the Houses of Office which are in each corner of the Kervanseray and on one side there is a lovely Garden full of Tulips Roses and abundance of other Flowers of all kinds it is well Planted also with Fruit-Trees and Vines and all kept in very good order the Walks very neat and covered with Artificial Arbours all round before this Garden there is a fair watering place for Horses which is always kept full of water from a Well hard by this Kervanseray was built by the Chan of Lar called Aivaz Chan and is six Agatsch from Benaru Friday the seven and twentieth of March after four a Clock in the Morning we parted from this place and Travelled Southward in a pretty good way though stony in some places about day we found a Cistern with a steep Roof and about half an hour after six we saw upon the Road a limit of stone about a Fathom high built upon a Paving of Free-stone that serves it for a Basis we were told that a man was shut up in it A man shut up in a stone according to the custom of the Country in times past when they used that particular punishment for Robbers on the High-ways others said that it was only a mark in the way which divides at that place about seven a Clock we passed by a Village called De-hi-Kourd De-hi-Kourd where there is a Kervanseray in that place are many Tamarisks some Palm-Trees and several Cisterns We left that Village on our Left Hand and continuing our way over an even Plain betwixt Corn-fields Pai Chotali about nine a Clock we came to a Kervanseray called Pai Chotali that is to say the foot of the Hill because it is near the Hills The same night I saw a Blazing Star Blazing-Star like to that which I had seen at Ispahan it was near the Dolphin and its Tail reached from East to West I saw it again all the nights following so long as our Journey lasted It rose always much about the same place of the Horizon and about the same hour or a quarter in or over On one side of this Kervanseray there is a Cistern and a Well on the other both covered with a Dome the Well is exceeding deep and it is a considerable time before the biggest stone that may be thrown into it reaches the bottom the water is drawn with a great Wheel and poured into a square Bason near to it from whence it passes through a hole into
another that is contiguous and afterwards fills a large and long Trough for watering of the Horses There are many other Cisterns also here and there in the Fields Two Musket-shot from the Kervanseray there is a Village called Dehi-Kouh Dehi-Kouh that is to say Hill Town because it stands on a Hill. This Kervanseray is four Agatsch from Bihri we staied there the rest of that day and all the following to comply with the humour of the Muletors it Thundered much in the night-time and we had Rain the whole next day we staied sometime thinking it might blow over but it still lasted We parted not then till Sunday the nine and twentieth of March at Noon continuing our way Southwards having set forward half a quarter of an hour we ascended the Hill which is neither very high nor very bad when we were got down on the other side we crossed several Torrents about two a Clock we found a little Kervanseray standing alone with a Cistern by it it is called Hhormont Kervanseray Hhormont from the name of the neighbouring Village so called because of the many Palm-Trees that grow about it Hhourma signifies the Fruit of the Palm-Trees or Dates On all that Road we found many of the Shrubs called Badisamour Badisamour a Shrub Hherzehre and there is hardly any thing else to be seen till you come to Bender but they give them another name in those Quarters calling them Hherzehre about four a Clock we saw on our Left Hand an Aqueduct which in former times conveyed water from a neighbouring source to Lar but it being dryed up the Aqueduct which cost a great deal of mony though it be but low and built only of rough stone is let go to ruin CHAP. IV. The continuation of the Journey to Bender and first of the Town of Lar. AFter many ups and downs and a great deal of turning and winding between Hills amongst many Tamarisk and some Conar-Trees about five a Clock we arrived at the Dutch House which is near the Town of Lar The Dutch House three Agatsch from Pai Chotali but these Agatsch seemed to me to be very long this is a very neat House with lovely Courts and Chambers and a fair Stable after the Franks Fashion it belongs to the Dutch Company There is a Kervanseray a little farther whither the Caravans go but both Franks and Armenians Lodge at the Dutch House We stayed three days in the Town of Lar which hath always been Lar. as at present it is the chief Town of the Province it was heretofore the residence of the King of that Country to wit when the Guebres were Masters of it The Guebres Masters of Lar. Ghermes the great Schah Abbas took it from them and now a Chan resides there who Commands the whole Province which is called Ghermes and reaches to the very Gates of Gomron This Town which is four days Journy from Gomron and seated on a Rock is but small it hath no Walls but only a sorry Ditch beyond which are several Houses pretty well built of which the Dutch House is one and these make a kind of Suburbs to it There is nothing to be seen at Lar but the Chans House the Market-Place the Bazars and the Castle The Chans House looks to the Ditch The House of the Chan of Lar. the Walls of it are very high on that side and at the farther end there is a Divan covered fit for taking the fresh Air in the entry into that House is from the Market-Place which is very pretty it is a Square with Arches all round and Terrasses on the top along which there is a row of Rails and Ballisters for a border these Ballisters consist of Arches interlaced about two foot high made of narrow stones about four Fingers thick In the middle of the East side of the Square is the Porch of the Chans House which juts out a little into the place and hath seven Fronts on the opposite side over against this Porch there is a large Gate over which there is a great covered Divan The entry into the Bazars is by that Gate and they are very fair and large well covered and paved with broad smooth Free-stone Lovely Bazars in Lar. amongst others there is one covered in the middle by a very large handsome Dome which hath well furnished Shops Having passed the Bazars and crossed the Town which is but narrow and reaches in length from South to North you come to the Quarter of the Jews who are very numerous in this Town Many Jews in Lar. they live near the foot of the Hill on which the Castle stands which reaches as the Hill-does South and North and is to West of the Town This Castle is very long and built all of stone The Castle of Lar. the Walls of it seem to be good and have Towers at some intervals the Hill on which it stands is a mere Rock steep almost on all sides this Castle Commands all round it and there is a Wall drawn from it with some Towers a little down the side of the Hill in short it is strong considering the Country and was built by the Guebres All the Country about Lar is full of Tamarisks which are very big Abundance of Tamarisks at Lar. and I never saw so many together in one place Gun-powder Bad water at Lar. There is good Gun-powder made in this Town Their drink is very bad for they have only Cistern-water which is very unwholesome and it is good to quench a red hot Iron in it and strain it through a Cloath because of the Worms that breed therein which being swallowed down slide betwixt the Flesh and the Skin Worms bred in the Body by the water as I shall describe when I come to speak of Gomron and get not only into the Legs but also into other parts of the Body nay and into the Testicles too so that a man will have sometimes four or five of them in several places as for our parts we drank good water there because of the Rain that fell the day when we arrived It Rained all Wednesday and next night which hindered us from setting out but Thursday the second of April about five of the Clock in the Morning we continued our Journy going streight East in a very good Sandy way betwixt Corn-Fields for the Villages are very thick thereabouts On that Road I observed a pretty pleasant thing which is practised in all that Country as far as Bendar Abassi I saw several Peasants running about the Corn-Fields who raised loud shouts and every now and then clacked whips with all their force and all this to drive away the Birds which devour all their Corn when they see Flocks of them coming from a neighbouring Ground that they may not light on theirs they redouble their cries to make them go farther and this they do every day Morning and Evening The truth is
Adjoyning to this Kervanseray there is another very little one through which the same water runs and a little farther there is a third which is bigger but somewhat ruinous This place is five Agatsch from Hhormont We parted from thence Monday the sixth of April half an hour after Midnight at first for above an hour we had very bad stony way but it proved pretty good afterward about two in the Morning we passed by a little covered Kervanseray called Berkei Dobend and about four a Clock by another called Dgei Hhon Berkei Dobend Dgei Hhon at break of day we entered into bad way again where we clambered up and down for above an hour among stones and then we found the way better till we came to a covered Kervanseray called Kor Bazirghion Kor Bazirghion that is to say the Merchants Ditch where we arrived about eight a Clock This Kervanseray is of the same bigness as the other where we Lodged the day before it is built much after the same manner having in each Corner three Chambers of which the one which is on the inside is open by Arches on two sides and the other two have their Door without the Kervanseray this place is five Agatsch from Tengbidalan We parted from thence about half an hour after one a Clock in the Morning during a large quarter of an hour we had bad stony way and about half an hour after five we passed by a little covered Kervanseray Berkei Soltouni called Berkei Soltouni about three quarters of an hour after seven we came to such another near to a great Village called Coureston Coureston four Agatsch from Kor Bazirghion we left the Caravan at this place because our Carriers took Camels to finish the Journy with and resolved to Travel only by day and to be four days longer by the way I therefore took a Camel to carry my man and baggage and a guide to shew us the way which from thence to Bender is so difficult that he who hath Travelled it fifty times may lose himself there in so that it is absolutely necessary to take a man of the Country if one would not wander out of the way We parted about eleven a Clock at Night and presently entered into a great sandy Plain which nevertheless is peopled and hath a great many Villages that are to be seen here and there this is occasioned by the abundance of Palm-Trees that this Country is full of the Soil being proper for them though very barren for any thing else About an hour after Midnight we passed by a little covered Kervanseray Dobrike called Dobrike which is an Agatsch and a half from Coureston and a little after we passed over an Aqueduct which is level with the Ground and called Pariabzahed Aly Pariabzahed Aly. this Aqueduct brings water from a Spring at the Foot of the Hills that are to the Left Hand towards the North in digging it was discovered and the water of it is very good Betwixt three and four of the Clock we went over a very high and fair Bridge above three Fathom broad and betwixt seven and eight hundred common Paces long it is well Paved and has a side-Wall on each side about a Foot and a half high under this Bridge runs a River above nine or ten Fathom broad which is heard at a great distance by reason of the noise it makes in its course there is no drinking of the water of it for it is Salt and it discharges it self into the Sea about six hundred Paces from thence Rohhouna The name of that River is Rohhouna that is to say the running River and that is the name they give to all great Rivers it comes from Kermont Pouli Seugh the name of the Bridge is Pouli Seugh that is to say Stone-Bridge or otherwise Pouli Coreston before this River comes to the Bridge it runs by the Foot of the Hills on the Left Hand Northwards and there it begins to be Salt when it comes to this Bridge which indeed is only upon the side of it finding it so runs along the side of it and discharges but part of its water underneath in passing which running under the Arches and finding the Ground lower on the other side of the Bridge falls with great impetuosity and that makes the rumbling noise that is heard at such a distance the rest of the water running along by the Bridge turns afterwards towards the South and loses it self in the Sea. Being over the Bridge we went a long a Causey above two Fathom broad and all Paved about a thousand Paces in length which hath a good Parapet or Breast-Wall about a Foot and a half high Wednesday the eighth of April about six of the Clock in the Morning we came to a covered Kervanseray called Ghetschi Ghetschi six Agatsch from Coureston There is another besides close by which is not covered but like the rest in all things else and a little ruinous There were several Tents of black Goats hair thereabout and as soon as we arrived a great many Women and Girls came out of them to visit us they were cloathed with blew streakâ—d Drawers and a blew Shirt over them their Noses Ears Arms and Feet were full of Silver Copper Bone or Glass-Rings every one of them held an Earthen Porringer full of Yogourt or Sower Milk and a little Vessel full of the same under their Arms and to invite us to buy some of them in our presence dabbed four Fingers and a Thumb into their Budgets and pulled out Butter full of Straws which they mingled with the Milk that was in their Porringers and then poured out more Sower Milk out of the same Borrachy their Husbands are all Fishermen and both men and women are Inhabitants fit for such a Country We parted from that place the same day half an hour after six in the Evening and continued our Journy along the sandy Plain about eight a Clock we passed a narrow streight betwixt little Hills and having kept turning about half a quarter of an hour we found two ways the one to the Left Hand over a pretty high Hill and the other to the Right which hardly appeared we followed this last leaving that to the Left Hand which is very dangerous if we may believe the people of the Country for they would needs persuade us that on that Hill there were Dgius who killed all Passengers by that word Dgius they understand evil Spirits Dgius which they say are of a middle Nature betwixt Angels and Men. This imagination then they have and give it out for a very certan thing that in that Hill there is a Tlisim or Charm by vertue whereof the Dgius prevail Tlisim and that they make Cauldrons there the sound whereof may be heard for they all agree that some men have been there and come safe back again who related all these things but they say that none but such
as have been excepted from the Charm by him who made it can return back again The truth of the matter is according as I have learned from some of more sense and who have advanced a little in that way it is so bad that if one engage but in the least in it it is very hard to get back again so full it is of Precipices on all Hands Nevertheless the way seems to be so much the better that though we had warning given us we began to mount by it when our Guide suddenly called to us and made us follow him the other this Hill is called Kouchtscheizer Gheroun Kouchtscheizer Gheroun When we were over this passage we Travelled almost two hours in a Champian Ground where there are a great many little Mounts or Hillocks some one some two and some almost four Fathom high About eleven a Clock we passed by a little covered Kervanseray called Houni Sourkh that is to say red blood Houni Sourkh and is four Agatsch from Ghetschi about an hour and a half after we came to another little covered Kervanseray called Bendali Bendali which is but an Agatsch from Houni Sourkh and close by the Sea we rested there two hours because they would have fired upon us from the Fort of Bender Abassi if we had come there in the Night time and therefore we parted not from Bendali till next day at half an hour after two in the Morning and a little after five a Clock we came to the House of a Rhadar near the Town of Bender where the Jurisdiction of the Chan of Lar ends Arrival at Bender and that of the Chan of Bender begins CHAP. V. Of Bender-Abassi Ormus and the Author 's return to Schiras SO soon as we arrived the Rhadar according to the Custom carried us to the Custom-House where our Goods were searched and then we went and Lodged in a Kervanseray Before I engage to say any thing of Bender it will not be amiss here to observe some Errors in the Maps which all place the Town of Schiras almost two thirds of the way from Ispahan to Bender Erroâ—â— in Geography and nevertheless it is but one third Besides the Authors of these Maps put Bender to the South-West and almost to the West of Lar and yet it is to the Eastward of it and Lar is to the East drawing a little towards the South of Schiras All along the Road from Lar or rather from Dehi-Kou to Bender grow many of those accursed Plants which the Persians call Kherzehreh Kherzehreh upon the Road. Mortal Winds of which I have spoken before and which are pretended to have such noxious qualities that if in June or July any man breath in certain hot South Winds that come from the Sea and blow over these Plants he falls down dead and at most has no more time than to say he burns which happened at Bender Congo where that Wind rages much to the Vikil of Monsieur del ' Estoille who as soon as he had said he burnt died without remedy though there was a great deal of water presently thrown upon his body that is the reason that during these two months men Travel there but very seldom After all I can hardly agree in Opinion with the people of the Country who attribute this bad effect to that Plant I should rather think that it proceeded only from the malignity of the Wind for at Mosul where that Wind reigns also and is much dreaded I never heard any mention made of that Plant. This Wind may not be said properly to blow from Lar but from Coureston to the Sea. Gomron or Bender Abbassi The Town of Comron or Gomron otherwise called Bender-Abassi because it was the great Schah Abbas that began to put it in Vogue is inconsiderable as to what it contains for it is very little and scarcely deserves the name of a good Village nevertheless it is considerable in respect of its situation which is very advantageous for Traffick It is governed by a Chan and has a Schah Bender or Customer to gather the Customs which are worth much to the King of Persia though one half of them belong to the English Part of the Customs belong to the English by vertue of the agreement they made with that Prince when they assisted him in taking of Ormus but they receive not the fourth part the Persians giving them but as little as they can There is very little then in this Town that is worth the observing there is only one publick Gate The Fort of Bender a Bazar and a small Fort on the Sea-side which chiefly consists in a square Platform of about four Fathom each Face and some two Fathom high there are Port-holes in it for five or six pieces of Cannon but they have no more but two The English and Dutch have each of them their Houses very well built by the Sea-side with the Flag of their several Nations upon a high Pole on their Terrasses Two good Leagues to the Southward from the main Land is that so famed Isle of Ormus which is at the mouth of the Gulf of Persia that reaches from thence to Bassora Ormus which is the bottom of the Gulf. Ormus lies in the seven and twentieth Degree of North Latitude distant from Bassora an hundred and fourscore Leagues it hath a Fort which was long held by the Portuguese until the year one thousand six hundred twenty two that the great Schah Abbas King of Persia assisted by the English took it from them by force This Isle which is but three Leagues in Circuit is wholely barren for it is all over Rock that does not bear a pile of Grass nor has it a drop of Fresh water but what falls from the Sky which the Inhabitants preserve in good Cisterns that are in the Fort so that they are obliged to bring every thing from the main Land. And nevertheless in the time of the Portuguese it had a very populous Town and exceeding rich where all the Trade of the Indies was managed at present there remains no mark of it and there is nothing Inhabited but the Fort. The Portuguese lost Ormus by their own fault The Portuguese lost that Island by the fault of the Governour for all he needed to do was to have cut a little Ground to let in the Sea-water that would have surrounded the Fort which stands upon the point of the Island on the side of Gomron and then it would have been very hard to have mastered it But out of a bravery or rather pride which is natural to that people this Governour made so small account of his Enemies and trusted so much to his own Valour that he thought it would reflect upon him if he took any pains to make a Work to defend himself against them It is true also there was a point of Honour in the Case because he had not thought of that expedient himself but
good very pleasant Destberm Half an hour after five we came to a Lodge of Rahdars which is at the end of the Plain and is called Destberm commonly they make it a Menzil or days Journy from Chadgegih to Destberm because of the trouble of climbing over the Mountain which extreamly tires the Mules There being no water in that place but what is taken out of a beastly open Cistern we gave the Rahdars some Casbeghis and so went on A quarter of an hour after we found a Sepulchre in form of a square Chappel covered with a Dome and pretty near it two Cisterns We went downwards afterwards Chotal Ouscheneck by a very rugged descent called Chotal Ouscheneck in former times it was more rugged and I believe that neither Men nor Beasts could pass it but the Mother of Imam-Couli-Chan Governour of Schiras called Voli Naamet caused the passage to be made as now it is The Rock in many places is cut in the fashion of steps in other places it is Paved and all over where the way is so narrow that Beasts making a false step were in danger of tumbling into a Precipice there is a Parapet made of stone about a Foot and a half high and a Foot thick so that now it is passable though a great way of it one must alight and lead being come to the bottom of that descent for near three quarters of an hour we had very stony way and then came to a lovely Spring of water which spreads so over the Country that with its waters it covers a very large Plain it is called Abghine We saw that water the day before Abghine from Mount Andgira though there be a great Hill betwixt them We passed it at a narrow place upon a Bridge of two Arches which is all ruinous and is called Poul-Abghine Poul-Abghine Having Travelled on two hours and a half more over a barren Plain about half an hour after ten we came to Karzerum six Parasanges and a half from the last Stage Karzerum Karzerum is a Town of many Houses but all so miserable that in our Country the greatest Compliment that could be put upon it would be to call it Bourg or Village because it has a Market-place it depends on the Vizir of Schiras and is Commanded by a Kelonter there are two or three good Kervanserays it it and the water they drink there is brought above half a League from the Town but both in it and the Kervanserays there is water good enough for Beasts and the Kitchin. Here they would have seized our Mules to carry Provisions for the King to Ispahan but the Reverend Father Provincial going to wait upon the Kelonter to represent to him that we were Franks so soon as the Kelonter saw him he ordered that our Mules should not be taken because we were strangers They have a great many Grapes and Melons here and make Wine that may be made use of We parted from Karzerum Friday the second of October at two of the Clock in the Morning and Travelled on still Westwards in very good way Half an hour after four we passed by a sorry Village called Dris Dris where they have no water to drink but what is taken out of a little Lake About six a Clock we passed by a little River that runs in a bottom and there is a way along the side of it we took not that way but leaving both it and the River struck off to the Left Hand by a very stony way about seven a Clock we began to go up Hill in bad way and a quarter of an hour after found a Lodge of Rahdars to whom we made a Present of some Casbeghis and kept on mounting upwards till about eight a Clock and then having descended a little we came into a very even Plain but which produces nothing though there be not one stone in it Having Travelled therein an hour we passed by a Village called Kangh Turkon Kangh Turkon Kamaredge and still kept on in the same Plain till we came to a Village called Kamaredge at the farther end of it This Village is six Parasanges from Karzerum we arrived there half an hour after nine and Lodged in a House that was lent us for some small Gratuity the water we drank there is taken out of a Well close by We parted from that Village Saturday the third of October half an hour after three a Clock in the Morning A little after we passed by a Kervanseray called Kervanseray Khodgia Belfet it is not opened but in the Winter-time Khodgia Belfet when it Rains or Snows the rest of the Year it is shut and no body Lodges in it We continued going Westward but the way was very bad about four a Clock the way was so narrow that only one Mule could pass at a time it lyes betwixt two Hills that are very near one another but it is not above an hundred paces long immediately after we entered into another narrow pass among the Hills where the way is no broader and we went down Hill in very bad way until three quarters of an hour after four there we found a Caravan of several Mules and Camels which were coming from Bender Rik and we met with several others afterward every day Then we went up Hill for about a quarter of an hour and afterwards went down Hill again till six of the Clock in very irksome way and amongst dreadful Precipices being steep black Rocks where one is often forced to alight for fear of tumbling headlong After that we had good way but still amongst Hills until half an hour after six that we found a great broad and deep River Roudchone Bouschavir called Roudchone Bouschavir the water of which tasts a little sweetish the source of it is near the Town called Scheleston Scheleston which is a days Journy from Karzerum Northwards and it loses it self in the Sea towards Bender-Rik we Coasted along it at first in a Plain for the space of an hour and after that mounting during a quarter of an hour we continued our Journy by a flat way for another quarter and then lost fight of the River for the space of half an hour going up Hill all the while until about half an hour after nine we joyned it again and Travelled on along the sides of it an hour and a half in very good way There are many Villages thereabouts and much Cultivated Land some of which bears Tobacco I also saw in several places that fatal Shrub Kerzebreh About ten a Clock we Foarded over a large Brook that falls into the River of Bouschavir Bouschavir Sirt This may very well be the River which Sanson marks in his Map by the name of Sirt we Foarded it again a quarter of an hour after and then five times an end so that in less than half an hours time we crossed it six times having the water always up
holes which press the little Cords very hard besides they put in the inside at the joyning of the Planks a twist or double of these small Lines about three Fingers thick which is fastened to the two Planks by other little Lines and of these there is one at each seam or joyning of the Planks from the upper side of the Bark down to the Keel and over and above that there is a Girdle also on the inside which goes all round her all these Cords are made of Palm-Tree and that they may not be damaged by the water nor the Bark leak they cover all over with Pitch In short They have no Sea-Compass a Compass would be of great use to one of these Barks but they use none for they commonly keep within fight of Land and in the night-time are guided by the Stars Nevertheless the Sea-men of our Bark told me that she had cost twenty Tomans which is not to be thought strange seeing Timber is dear at Bender-Rik and Bassora They also told me that the usual burden of such a Bark was four hundred Bales of Dates each Bale being commonly twelve Man 's of Tauris so that these Barks carry according to that account four thousand eight hundred common Mans of Persia which make twenty eight thousand eight hundred weight Thursday the eighth of October they gave us notice to go on board and we went on Foot along the water-side to our Bark which was half a Farsakh distant that is to say about half a French League Farsakh for Farsakh Farfange and Parasange signifie one and the same thing and we went on board at Noon seeing she was empty as being sent only to bring Dates from Bassora we had room enough though I believe Passengers are much streightned in these Barks when they are loaded for they must lie upon the Goods as high as the side of the Bark We had eight Sea-men on board besides the Master and we put off as soon as we were on board by the help of two of the Company who wading up to the Belly in the water Towed us whilst the rest Rowed three hours after we stopt near the shoar on our Right Hand to take in Sand for Ballast they took in fifty Couffes or Basketfuls on Head and as much a Stern and then raised their Mast and fitted all their Tackle by the time they had put all in order it was six of the Clock at Night and then we set Sail with an Easterly Wind and standing away South-West we presently got out of that long Channel the mouth of it bearing South-West and keeping on the same course we lost sight of Land on the Starboard side but saw Land to the Larboard as long as we had day-light all night long we bore away sometimes South-West sometimes North-West beating too and again with the same Wind but so small that it was almost a Calm Friday the ninth of October at break of day we saw the Land near to us on the Right Hand and we were becalmed till about ten a Clock in the Morning when we had an easie South-West Gale with which we stood off a little from the shoar bearing away North-West we made so good way with this Gale that at one of the Clock after Noon Bender-Delem we were off and on with Bender-Delem and about six a Clock in the Evening we weathered a little point of Land which they say is half way from Bender-Rik to Bassora but about half an hour afrer seven the Wind all of a sudden shifted about to the North-West and therefore we Furled our Sail and came to an Anchor We were a little tossed during the whole night Next day being Saturday the tenth of October half an hour after six in the Morning we weighed Anchor and made Sail though the Wind was still at North-West and we stood away South-West About eight a Clock perceiving the Sea to be all over white I asked the reason of it and our Sea-men told me it was because the water was shallow and indeed we had no more but five foot water though we were at a pretty good distance from Land but some time after when I found that they had four Fathom water and that the water was still white I asked them again the reason of it and they could tell me no other but that it was always so in that place The North-West Wind blowing still they cast Anchor for it was contrary to us because in that place the Land bears Northward and then turns again towards Bassora making a kind of Semicircular Bay. From the place where we were at Anchor we made Land but so obscurely that it appeared only to be Clouds After much enquiry and many questions I got it out of our Patron at length that we were off and on with the mouth of a River which as he said was called Endian Endian and runs by a Village of the same name where there are many Houses but not contiguous there being twenty in one place thirty in another and all upon the Banks of the River that from Bender-Delem to the Village of Endian it is three days Journy that the Village of Endian depends on the Governour of Schiras and that it is five or six hours Travelling from the Sea being near the River Endian which is half as broad as the Tygris at Bassora This was all I could get out of that Man and that was not a little for it required time to pump so much from him whence one may judge how difficult a thing it is to get an exact knowledge of these Countries and it is not to be thought strange that the ways we have of them are full of errours most of them being made upon the relation of people who not understanding the Language can hardly inform themselves of the people of the Country otherwise than by signs and some words which here and there they understand and so are apt to take one thing for another Half an hour after seven at night we weighed Anchor and kept upon Tacks sometimes South-West sometimes North-East but the Wind blowing fresh about midnight we furled Sail and came to Anchor in six Fathom and a half water We were extreamly tossed all night long and I wondered that the Bark sprang not a Leak being so beaten by the waves Next day being Sunday the eleventh of October we weighed about seven a Clock and kept beating upon a Wind from South-West to North-East until Noon that we had calm weather at length about half an hour after two we had a breeze from South-West which made us weigh Anchor in good earnest and stand away North West It is to be observed that in all that Voyage we had not above two three four or six Fathom water at most though we were so far out at Sea that we could not discover the Land but like Clouds About six a Clock at night we were becalmed and came to an Anchor About
midnight we had a fresh Gale from North-West Monday Morning the twelfth of October the Wind slackned very much but changed not and therefore we weighed Anchor at half an hour after eight and standing away South-West we were soon after becalmed Towards Noon we Rowed a little and half an hour after had a breeze from South-West with which we bore away North-West till three in the Afternoon when we entered into the River Caron that comes from the Hills above the Town Souster Caron Souster Khusistan Susa Ahasuerus Coaspes Choasp Tiripari Zeimare which is the Capital Town of Khusistan and was in ancient times the Town of Susa where Ahasuerus held his Court. This River of Caron must be the Coaspes of the Ancients nay they assured me that there is still at present near to the Town of Souster a Hill called Choasp where the River of Caron which Sanson calls Tiripari Tiritiri and Zeimare hath its source but what reason he has for these names I cannot tell since no body could give me any account of them though I have enquired of many who all told me they knew of no such thing On the Right Hand to the West there is an Isle called Dorghestan and on the Left or towards the East Dorghestan Gheban is the Island of Gheban the point whereof is called Mouele and Gheban because all that Country is called Gheban and is the limits of the Kingdom of Bassora on that side In that place to the Left Hand there is a piece of of Palm-Tree-Wood fixed in the Ground to serve for a signal when it his high water not to go beyond it and they call that signal Dgioudoh The Land here on both sides depends on the Basha of Bassora The usual way to Bassora is by Sea to the mouth of Schat-el-Aarab The way to Bassora which they enter and go by water to Bassora but we put in to the River because our Sea-men who had nothing to do at Bassora being only come to take in Dates imposed upon us telling us that we must go to Gheban to take in fresh water and wood which we wanted and that it was also the shortest cut to Bassora but that great Barks went not that way because it was not deep enough which we too easily believed So soon as we were got into the River we came to Anchor in a Fathom water At low water the River at that place is but very little salt and a little higher it is fresh even when it is Flood Being Flood about midnight our men fell to their Oars but Rowed not above an hour and then came to an Anchor The Country about seems to be very good Land it is low even and green on all Hands and we saw many Cows there feeding in the Meadows which look much like the Meadows of Holland Tuesday the thirteenth of October about ten a Clock in the Morning our Sea-men went a shoar and Towed us up till one of the Clock when being over against a Village where there are a great many Palm-Trees we hoisted Sail with a North-West Wind that lasted not long and so came to an Anchor again Our men went a shoar to hear News as they said of Bassora and coming back in the Evening told us that all things were in confusion at Bassora that the Basha was marched with his whole Army towards Bagdad and that all Barks were taken up for Transporting of Soldiers and that therefore they durst go no farther but were resolved to return empty to Bender-Rik This was all false A cheat of the Sea-men and the truth was they had no mind to go any farther designing to take in their Cargoe at the place we were at where there is plenty of Dates and that was the reason they had brought us that way Nevertheless we must pretend to believe all the Knaves told us and try to find another Bark to carry us to Bassora We sent then a servant next day to look for one and he brought us a small thing wherein the men promised in four and twenty hours to carry us to the Town for six Abassis which we gave them These Barks are flat bottomed about a Fathom high one and a half broad and about five Fathom long The Stern is very low but the Head is as high again and draws into a sharp point as the Gondolos of Venice Barks on the River of Caron These Barks are not Caulked but only Pitched over on the outside which they do in the manner following When they are to Pitch a Daneg for so they call that sort of Bark in Arabick ten or twelve paces from the Daneg they make a Furnace of Earth the upper part whereof is made like a Cauldron into that they put the Pitch and the fire underneath and when the Pitch is almost melted but not altogether liquid a man comes with a little wet Shovel in his Hand and another lays some of this Pitch upon it The Pitching of a Daneg and then puts water upon the Pitch which the first carrying to the Daneg and stirring the Pitch with a piece of Wood to which it does not stick he that is working at the Daneg takes the Pitch in his Hand and dawbs it as one would do Plaster upon the Daneg and then with a Rowler which is not altogether round he spreads it upon the Vessel and in that manner Pitches it all over on the outside These Barks are made very strong the sides being about a Foot thick and all the Planks are Nailed with great Nails such as are driven into Gates in France they have likewise a Mast of an indifferent bigness Indeed these Barks make but heavy way especially in the middle of the water where they cannot use a Sail if they have not the Wind in Poop and nevertheless they load them so deep that they are not above half a Foot above water We embarked in one of these Boats about half an hour after three in the Afternoon it was full of a kind of very long green Rushes that have a great point at the end whereof they make very fine mats Our Crew consisted of two Sea-men and a Master the two men Towed us on Land till half an hour after six that we came before a Village to the Left Hand there we cast Anchor our Men unloaded all the Rushes and going afterwards to the Village we we saw no more of them till next day This is a great Village and has a square Castle with eight Towers to wit one at each corner and one in the middle of each side but they are all of Earth and so thin that a double Musket could batter them all down This place is called Koutmian Koutmian that is to say Castle Mian and they make many Danegs there The Country of Gheban reaches from thence to the mouth of the River of Caron and in all that space the Land on both sides the River is called Gheban it
no Bark to come to Bassora laid an Embargo also upon all Vessels that were at Bassora loaded with Goods for Bagdad They had other false News at that time at Bassora to wit that the King of Persia was coming to Besiege it False News from Persia and some people of Fashion asked me the News at the Custom House but I put them out of trouble as to that assuring them that in Persia there was no appearance that the King had any thoughts of making War which was true enough They then told me how much they were troubled at the News they had of twenty French Corsairs being at Sea False News of the French raised by the Dutch. which very much terrified all the Merchants This report was raised by the Dutch who purposely broached it that all the Merchants might put their mony on board of Dutch Ships and not in Mahometan and this News was the more easily believed that it was known every where now that the French were coming to settle a Trade in the Indies and they were persuaded that all our Vessels were Pirats French Corsairs because three Years before two French Corsairs came to Moca just about the time that the Vessels put out from the Port of Moca carrying nothing but mony to Surrat from whence they bring Goods which is at the end of August The French took all these Vessels and went off If they had had a little more skill in those Seas they might have done more for they might have come into the Gulf of Persia about the end of October and there waited for the Ships of Bassora at which time they carry a great deal of mony for Trafficking in the Indies and they might easily have made themselves Masters of them and therein of several millions in ready mony there being none but Indians on Board of all these Vessels who make no resistance and that being done they might as easily have got away but they did not do it in short they left such a terrible consternation on all these Seas Fear of the French. that to name but the French to them is enough to make them all shake for fear CHAP. X. Of Bassora The situation of Bassora BAssora the Capital Town of the Kingdom or Bashaship of that name lies at the farther end of Arabia the Desart which is to the West of it and near Arabia the Happy that lies to the South two days Journy below the place where the two Rivers Euphrates and Tygris joyn upon the Banks of Schat-El-Aarab which is no other than Euphrates and Tygris joyned into one it is eighteen Leagues from the Sea The Latitude of Bassora The variation of the Loadstone The distance of Bagdad from Bassora and in the thirtieth or one and thirtieth Degree ten Minutes North Latitude The Needle declines there about thirteen Degrees and a half from North to West and from thence to the Indies it always declines about eleven Degrees and a third some say a half from North to West It is two days Journy by Land from Bagdad and by water they come from Bagdad to Bassora in great Barks in fifteen or sixteen days time and most commonly in eighteen but the Barks that go from Bassora to Bagdad are commonly fifty sixty and sometimes fourscore days in the Voyage The Circuit of Bassora because they are only drawn by men This is a great Town encompassed with Walls of Earth that are about six hours march in Circuit but they contain a great many void spaces where there are neither Houses nor Gardens It hath two Gates The Gates of Bassora the one called the East Gate and the other the West and the Gate of Bagdad because by it they go out of the Town when they are bound for Bagdad The situation of Bassora advantageous This Town in my Opinion is so advantageously seated that it might be made one of the richest and most lovely Cities in the World It would certainly be very pleasant if it were a little better built and Gardens made all along the sides of the Canal that comes from Schat-El-Aarab and runs through the whole Town For the Land about if they would Manure it and Plant Trees therein I believe it would bear any thing for the Climate is hot and the Soil of a greyish colour which seems to me to be very fertile being twice a day moistened by the River-water which the Tide carries up four days Journy and a half from Bassora the water rising at the Town a Fathom and a half but yet not salt some have told me that the Ground is too salt to bear any thing but Palm-Trees which thrive much in salt Ground Abundance of Palm-Trees and grow in greater numbers in the Country about Bassora than in any other Country in the World and to shew that it is really salt they say that if one dig two Fathom deep in the Earth they will find salt-water but perhaps it is not so in all places However it be it is certain that from November forwards that Country produces a great many Herbs as Succory Spinage Herbs and Fruits at Bassora and other Pot-Herbs and in several Gardens there are very good Apricots which last all June and July and in July and August also many Grapes as in October Melons water-Melons Pomegranats and Limons the truth is none of these Fruits will keep because of the South-East Wind that reigns during that time and is hot and moist There are pretty enough publick places in Bassora and amongst others the Meidan which is before the Bashas Palace and is very large The Meidan of Bassora there are in it twelve pieces of Cannon or Culverines mounted on their Carriages near that Palace and there are also several very fair Bazars in the Town I said that this might be made one of the richest Cities in the World The Port. of Bassora commodious for all Countries because of the Commerce that might be settled there with all parts almost of the Habitable World. Its Port is good and very safe being twelve Leagues from the Sea in the fresh water of Schat-El-Aarab and it is so broad and deep that the greatest Vessels may come to it without danger all the Goods of Europe might be brought thither by the Mediteranean because being once come to Aleppo it would not be difficult to Transport them to Bi r which is but four days Journy from Aleppo and there they might be embarked on the Euphrates on which they might in ten days time come to Rousvania from whence there is but a days Journy to Bagdad where they might embark them on the Tygris and in fifteen or sixteen days time they would come to Bassora nay and with a very little pains and industry the River Euphrates might be made Navigable for great Vessels only by clearing the Channel in some places where it is choaked up with great stones and that is the reason
of Bassora Having treated of the City of Bassora I must say somewhat of its Basha who is not changed every three years as the rest of Turky are but is in a manner Hereditary each Basha in his own life-time easily procuring the Reversion for his Son by means of good Presents He at present is the fourth of his Family and four years agoe the Grand Signior sent him by a Capigi the Reversion for his Son He pays yearly about a thousand Piastres of Tribute to the Port and a great deal besides which is laid out in Presents for the Sultanas and chief Eunuchs and other great Men of the Serraglio where he is obliged to keep a close Correspondence because it is only by means of Presents that he fits sure Nevertheless seeing he obeys the Grand Signior no farther than he thinks fit Orders are many times sent from the Port to the Basha of Bagdad to joyn with other Bashas and turn him out When that happens being sensible of his own inability to make War against them he buys his Peace That which makes this Basha distrust his own Force is because his Soldiers are all either Turks or Fugitives from Aleppo and Bagdad who only look for an opportunity of returning again to their Country or they are Arabs who are of all men the soonest corrupted by mony otherwise there is no doubt to be made but that if these men were faithful unto him he might very well make Head against all the Neighbouring Bashas joyned together Fourteen years agoe two of his Uncles immediately after the death of their Brother Two of the Bashas Uncles got him to be dispossessed the Father of this Man went to Constantinople and begged of the Grand Signior the one the Bashaship of Bassora and the other that of Catif and Lehhsa the Grand Signior granted their desire and commanded Murteza Basha then Basha of Bagdad to turn out the Bashas of Bassora and of Catif Lehhsa who were both alike disobedient to the Grand Signior and to put those two Arabs Brothers in their places Immediately Murteza Basha advanced with these two Princes towards Dgezire where her was joyfully received by all he then marched towards Bassora where he was likewise received the truth is the Basha of Bassora stayed not for him there for seeing himself forsaken by his people who were disgusted at his Tyrannies he fled to Durach a Town of Persia Thus Murteza Basha The Basha of Bassora flies to Durach without stroke of Sword made himself Master of Bassora whereof in time he might have become Soveraign if he had had but a little better Conduct Upon his arrival he made one of those Arabs Princes Basha but two days after having taken them both with him out of the Town under pretext of a walk he caused them to be strangled A Revolution at Bassora This action extreamly displeased the people of the Country yet if he had stopt there he might have given it out that he had instructions from the Grand Signior to do so and in process of time gained the friendship of all the Militia of Bassora and then he might have been so well fixed that it would not have been in the power of any to turn him out of his Government But not satisfied with the death of those two Men he returned to the Town and the same day having sent for the most considerable and wealthiest Citizens he seized on their Estates and ordered fifteen or twenty of them to be hanged publickly which so incensed the Soldiers that they all rose against him so that he was obliged to be gone in haste carrying with him what he could of the Riches of Bassora Since that he went twice to Constantinople and both times was sent back Basha of Bagdad but being a third time called to the Port he went as far as Mosul but durst go no further for fear of being put to death he therefore resolved to fly into Persia and was upon his way but as ill luck would have it some Curdes knew him as he was Travelling through Curdistan and cut off his Head. That Man was a Georgian The death of Murteza Basha and though he made profession of the Turkish Law yet he was a Christian in his Heart and had never been Circumcised making the Turks believe he was His only design was to make himself Master of some State and then to own the Turk no more and therefore he was extreamly obliging to all the Soldiers whose love and friendship he had generally procured till by his cruelties he lost it When he saw himself upon the brink of ruin he would have delivered up Bagdad to the King of Persia but that Prince refused the offer not being then in condition to maintain a War. In short he had for sometime so wrought upon the affections of the Soldiers and People that he might have done great matters if he had not wanted Conduct To return to the Basha of Bassora no sooner was Murteza Basha gone but the lawful Basha being recalled by his Subjects came back and was received by his people as before The day he departed from Durach Orders came from the King of Persia to the Governour of that place to stop him and it was said that that Princes design was to send an Army with the same Basha to Bassora and to make himself Master of that Town but the Order came a little too late for he was already gone CHAP. XI A Continuation of the Description of Bassora El-Catif and Lehhsa Of the Pearl-Fishing and the Sabeans Gaban THE state of this Basha is very considerable for besides the Town of Bassora he has on the side of Persia all the Country of Gaban that borders upon it Durach three days Journy distant from Bassora being the last Town of Persia on that side He hath on the side of Bagdad Dgezair that is to say the Isle which is two days Journy from Bassora and is washed on the one side by Euphrates and on the other by the Tygris these two Rivers joyning together at the point of that Isle two days Journy above Bassora and in that place there is a good Castle called Corna Corna which commands the passage of Euphrates and Tygris On the side of Bagdad that Isle is washed by an Artificial Canal drawn betwixt Euphrates and the Tygris This Canal is five hours march above Bassora and eleven or twelve days Journy below Bagdad The Island is very Fertile and well peopled having several good Villages the truth is it does not wholly depend on the Basha of Bassora for part of it on the side of this Canal is under the Government of Bagdad but seeing the Citadel which is on the point of the Isle at the confluence of the two Rivers and all that is on that side belongs to the Basha of Bassora He is in some manner secure from the surprises of the Basha of Bagdad who cannot Attack Bassora till first he hath
Bassora in the Ship of an Armenian of two hundred and threescore Tun burden Departure from Bassora The Ship Hopewel called the Hopewell This Ship carried eighteen Guns and had on Board one and thirty Sea-men of whom six and twenty were Banians and the other five Mahometans We had no Franks on Board but the Captain who was of Legorn the Gunner a Native of Toulon and two Sailers the one a Venetian and the other a Greek of Candy This was an English built Ship and formerly belonged to the English President at Surrat who had three others besides and then she carried twenty eight Guns but War breaking out betwixt the English and Dutch and the President finding that he was not able to maintain them against the Hollanders who at that time had many Ships in the Indies sold them about a year ago to Armenians and one Codgiaminas whom I mentioned already bought two of them of which this was one he payed for her to the English sixteen thousand Roupies which make eight thousand Piastres and put up the Armenian Colours upon her The Captain had three Pass-Ports one from the Portuguese another from the English and a third from the Dutch. The Ship had been for several years Commanded by a Greek Candiot called Captain Vscolo a Man of much experience in those Seas and skilful in taking Observations but he died at Bassora in the month of September this present year one thousand six hundred sixty five of an Inflammation in the Throat and the Armenians put in his place a Man of Legorn called Bernardo who had formerly been Boatswain in the same Ship. He was a good Sailer but knew not how to set off a Course nor take an Observation and indeed could neither Read nor Write he had only learnt a little experience by several Voyages he had made in those Seas The Armenians would have made an English Man Master who was a good Navigator and had discharged the same Place in other Ships but since the War was then breaking out betwixt the English and Dutch and that the Dutch told him they could not secure him from their Men of War who would certainly make him Prisoner if they met with him he refused the Employment Besides our Captain we had two Mahometan Pilots one who was to carry us as far as the Isle Carek and the other to Surrat where he was born The Cargo of the Ship Hopewell The Ship was loaded with Indigo Cloaths and Indian Commodities that could not be vended at Bassora which we were to unload at Carek to be Transported into Persia Besides she had on Board a great quantity of Dates ten Horses some Chests of Glass in pieces some great Venetian Looking-Glasses and a great many bags of mony The price of Passage from Bassora to Surrat A Cabin in the Ship. We payed for our Passage from Bassora to Surrat forty Abassis which are ten Piastres Ryals a Head but in Mahometan Ships this Passage costs nor more but fifteen Abassis I hired also of the Gunner a little Cabin for my self in a corner of the Gun-Room at the rate of forty Abassis for the Voyage from Bassora to Surrat It was six Foot long much about the same height and four or five Foot wide so that I was pretty well accommodated having a Bed of Boards two Foot raised from the Deck there was room enough in it for my Baggage and I could Read and Write therein by day by the light I had from a little skuttle but in the night-time I could only sleep in it because I had neither the convenience nor liberty of a Candle I took care to carry on Board with me a good large Jarr which I had filled with very good water Such as understand the benefit of this never fail to do so it is covered with a wooden cover and shut with a Padlock and is very useful when fresh water begins to be scarce on Board for then every one betakes himself to his Jarr and though the Captain had laid in good store of fresh water yet we had reason to apprehend a scarcity because besides a great many people we had ten Horses several Sheep Goats and Pullets on Board I made also a provision of Bisket and other necessaries for subsistance though I ate with the Captain and the other three Franks that were on Board The Ships departure from Bassora Schat-el-Aarab We spent four days betwixt Bassora and the mouth of Schat-el-Aarab because all Saturday the seventh of November we lay still before Bassora that day being employed in clearing the Ship and drinking Brandy with the Owners Vikil who stayed at Bassora and sent another in his place to Surrat where his Master was That day then was spent till night in drinking the Selomet in schallah that is to say to the good luck if it please God or the Foy and that with the noise of Guns At length the Merchant being gone we weighed Anchor but for a very short while for we were obliged to drop it again at midnight because we could not advance but by the help of the Tide so that it behoved us to stay for the Ebb before we weighed and come to an Anchor again when it made Flood and this course we were forced to take not only till New Moon which changed not till Saturday the seventh of November because of the South-East Wind that blew till that time but also for some days after the New Moon though the Wind was got about to North-West because it was too easie to serve our turn Besides the dissension that was on Board the Ship was a great hinderance to us for the Captain was of one mind and the two Pilots each of another all the Merchants likewise putting in for their share in advising This made the greater confusion that one spoke Armenian another Indian a third Persian a fourth Turkish and a fifth Portuguese insomuch that most commonly they understood not what one another said which made a confusion amongst them like that which God sent amongst the builders of the Tower of Babel All that I thought fit to observe in this Voyage till we got out to Sea is that we past betwixt the main Land of Bassora El-Feyadi Bochali Bouarin and the Isle El-Feyadi having that Isle to the Larboard as well as Bochali and Bouarin Two men did nothing but heave out the Lead to know how many Fathom water we had and most commonly they found three four or five Fathom nevertheless Monday the ninth of November Chader our Ship struck a ground at the point of the Isle of Chader which lyes towards the River that goes to Bahrem having but there eleven Foot water a Foot less than two Fathom and the Ship drew at least twelve Foot water This obliged us to wait till next Flood carryed us off and then we left that Island to the Starboard About seven a Clock at night we past by the mouth of the
Channel Haffar which was to our Larboard and there begins the Isle of Gban Isle of Gban which reaches from that place to the Sea. Tuesday the tenth of November the Tide of Ebb beginning an hour before day we weighed Anchor and continued our course betwixt the Isle Chader and the Isle Gban and there we found the water brackish At this place the Palm-Trees end and the Land on both sides is only level and barren Plains and so low that at high water they are almost all overflown about two hours after day the water cast us so much upon the Land on the South side that our Poop raked the shoar and that is in a manner unavoidable in this place where all Ships are forced a shoar nevertheless though we were so near we had two Fathom water a Stern and three a Head and the current of the water drove us forward at a great rate in the mean time our men did what they could to get out again into the Channel and at length with the help of our Boat that Towed us they accomplished it We found three Mahometan Ships which set out the same day that we did from Bassora and all three had had the same luck having been by the force of the stream cast a shoar as well as we The Course we stood from Bassora till we came to the Sea was in the beginning whilst we had the Wind at South-East South South West and after we had it at North-West we Steered always East South-East or South South-East About nine a Clock in the morning we had a pretty brisk Gale from North-West which made us spread our Mizan and Mizan-Top-Sail the Main and Main-Top-Sail and the Fore-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail and then we steered away South South-West making the more way as the Wind grew fresher the water is very broad at this place About half an hour after three a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor near the Mouth of the River because our Men would not venture out to Sea in the night-time for fear of being stranded for in the mouth of this River there is but two Fathom water when the Tide is out and the other Ships did as we did the Wind in the mean time ceased about midnight Next day we weighed Anchor about half an hour after six in the Morning and having spread the Fore-Top-Sail we Steered away South South-East but seeing it was little better than a calm we made but very little way nevertheless we began to lose sight of Land on all hands and had betwixt five and six Fathom water About nine a Clock we came to an Anchor to stay for the Tide because then we had but little water about eleven a Clock it being flood we weighed and a North-West Wind rising at the same time we clapt on all our Sails Steering our Course sometimes South-East sometimes South and sometimes South-West according to the water we found which was sometimes but three and sometimes four Fathom Half an hour after one of the Clock we had four Fathom and a half water and at two a Clock five but at the same time the Wind chopping about to South we were forced to furl our Sails and come to an Anchor It is very dangerous putting out of that River after the first days of November The season of Sailing for commonly the South Winds begin to blow at that time and last all November whereby many Ships that put out too late are cast away Thursday the twelfth of November the Sun rose with a stiff Wind from South and at the same time the Sky was on all hands over-cast with such a thick Fog that we could hardly see the other Ships which yet weighed Anchor and were Towed by their Boats we did the same though it was against the Captains mind who feared a storm and would have kept still at Anchor We got our Boat then to Tow us the Ships Head standing East South-East in five Fathom water About half an hour after eight we unfurled the Fore-Top-Sail and stood away East North-East and a little after North North-East About nine a Clock we spread the Mizan-Sail whilst our Boat still Towed us About half an hour after nine the Wind shifting about to East we presently furled our Sails and turning our Ships Head South-East came to an Anchor a quarter of an hour after in three Fathom water That day they began to allow every one but two measures of water by day one to boil the Kettle and the other to drink each measure is about three Pints About a quarter after ten a Clock we weighed Anchor and were Towed by our Boat spreading our Mizan Main-Top-Sail and Fore-Top-Sail though we had no settled Wind but sometimes one way and sometimes another and we turned the Ships Head North-East A little after the Wind getting in to South-East we bore away East and presently it shifted to South so that three quarters after ten we came to an Anchor Friday the thirteenth of November the Pilot of Carek and the Merchants prevailed so far with the Captain that he gave way to the weighing of Anchor at three quarters of an hour after seven though he was of a contrary Opinion and the truth is there was no reason to weigh because it blew a strong Wind from South-East and we had but little water on all hands We had indeed four Fathom at that time but seeing it was a Tide of Ebb we had reason to fear running a ground and to put out to Sea which was the thing the Merchants desired was to run into the storm In fine notwithstanding all these Reasons our men Towed us and we spread the Fore-Top-Sail but we held no certain Course the other Ships did as we did and perceiving us to cast Anchor three quarters of an hour after they did the like This is the inconvenience where many Ships are together that if one weigh or come to an Anchor the rest must do the same for if they should fail to do it and any misfortune happened the blame would be laid at the Masters door in that he did not do as the rest did who are all supposed to understand their Trade Saturday morning the fourteenth of November we made a Mahometan Ship coming from Bassora where we had left her for all the strong South-East Wind which had constantly blown since the day before we weighed Anchor at nine of the Clock in the morning and made Sail with our Mizan Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails Steering our Course East North-East Half an hour after nine the Wind getting about to South-West we let fly the Mizan Top-Sail and Fore-Sail and stood away East South-East At ten a Clock we tackt about and bore away West North-West and so kept beating to and again every half hour until three quarters of an hour after eleven that the Wind chopping in to South we came to an Anchor in three Fathom water we made short Tacks because of the little water we
men attempted to hall her out of the water by one side that she might be emptied by the other but the weight of the water bulged one of her sides and then she overset so that despairing to recover her unless with much labour and the loss of a great deal of time and fearing besides that she might dash against the Hold of the Ship because it was then a very rough Sea they cut the Ropes and let her go though it was near a hundred Piastres loss to the Owner of the Ship This made us lose a whole hours time and in the mean while one of the Ships which the day before was to our Starboard got a Head of us About half an hour after seven in the morning we made Sail with a North Wind. About half an hour after nine we were off of an Island to our Larboard which we took to be Audarvia but we were mistaken About ten a Clock the violence of the Wind began to abate and we Steered away East South-East About two a Clock after-noon we made a little Island to the Larboard very near the main Land and knew it be Audarvia and that the other which we past about half an hour after nine in the morning and took for Audarvia was Lara This Isle of Lara is a little Desart very low place Lara close by the main Land which is the reason that it is not easily discovered it bears nothing unless it be some wild Trees and that too only at one end of it which lyes to the West North-West and was to us the beginning of the Isle as our Course lay it may be known by these Trees It lyes in length from West North-West to East South-East and is threescore and ten Leagues from Carek Audarvia The Isle of Audarvia is in like manner little low and very near the main Land and lyes in length as Lara does from West North-West to East South-East there is good water in this Island and in the middle of it some wild Trees and the Cottages of some Fishermen who come from the main Land to Fish there it being seven or eight Leagues from Lara It is worth the observing that though these two Isles be very near the Land as I have been saying yet they leave a passage betwixt them and the main Land which may admit of Ships because it is very deep water and Ships sometimes shoot that passage The Wind freshning in the afternoon at three quarters of an hour after two a Clock we were got to the farther end of the Island and an hour after made the Isle of Keis to the South-East About half an hour after four we got on Head of the Ship that was before us in the morning and at the same time we were off and on with the hithermost end of the Isle of Keis Keis which was to our Starboard side This Island is about two Leagues and a half from the main Land or three at most and about five Leagues from Audarvia though they reckon it fifteen Leagues from Lara to Keis it reaches in length from West South-West to East North-East and is about five Leagues in Circuit it is very low and flat like the two former but it is inhabited by several people who have Houses dispersed here and there upon it I was told that heretofore the Inhabitants of that Island having killed a Portuguese who had gone a shoar there for some insolence which he had committed sometime after other Portuguese Ships coming thither the Admiral called Roui-Fereyra-Andrada went a shoar upon the Island and taking a Sucking-Child put it into a Mortar and by an unparalelled piece of cruelty A horrid piece of cruelty of a Portuguese made the Father and Mother of the innocent Babe pound it themselves in the Mortar This General was a Devil incarnate and it was his usual way so to revenge himself on the Inhabitants of those Coasts when they had done him any displeasure his name is to this day so terrible unto them that they use it to still their little Children when they cry threatning them with Lowis de Fereyra In the mean time that inhumanity made many forsake the Island that they might not be exposed to such cruel usage nevertheless some abode still and have Cattel there I was told that heretofore there were all sorts of Fruits on this Island but that since the Portuguese have left off to go thither there are no more to be found I was likewise assured that there is excellent water in the North-West and East ends of the Isle About five a Clock in the evening we furled our Mizan Mizan-Top Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails that we might not make so much way because on this Coast there are places where the water is very shallow About seven a Clock at night we were got off of the other end of the Isle of Keis and then the Wind slackened much half an hour after we came off and on a place of the main Land where the shoar opens towards the East and forms a Gulf in shape of a half Circle and the outmost point of that half Circle is called Gherd All that day we had kept very near the main Land which to that Gulf bears West North-West and East South-East When we were just off the beginning of this Gulf a gentle Gale blowing from East North-East made us to Steer our Course South-East and we made the Land called Gherd to the East South East About ten a Clock at night we stood away South South-East and heaving out the Lead found seventeen Fathom water within a quarter of an hour after the Wind turning North-West we bore away South but because it instantly blew too hard we furled the Main-Sail and Steered South South-East About three quarters after ten we Steered South-East and casting the Lead found fifteen Fathom water Sunday the two and twentieth of November at two a Clock after midnight we were got off of the Isle of Paloro to our Starboard Paloro our Course was then East South-East and having sounded we found thirteen Fathom water whereupon we turned the Ships Head South South-East A quarter after two we heaved the Lead several times and found betwixt six and seven Fathom water Three quarters after two we bore away East South-East and casting the Lead found first fifteen then ten and a little farther only eight Fathom water we had then to the Larboard a Mountain on the main Land Mount Sannas called Sannas Half an hour after five in the morning we had but five Fathom water At six a Clock we found twelve and then we Steered East North-East and at eight a Clock in the morning came before Congo distant from Keis fifteen Leagues by Land and thirty by Sea an hundred from Carek and an hundred and fifty from Bassora from Congo to Comoron it is twenty Leagues by Land and thirty by Sea. We came to an Anchor in the Road a long half League
where it is used for dying red and several Bags of Tobacco for neither the Indian nor Persian Tobacco is good for any thing and cannot be taken but with a Bottle full of water through which the smoak passes before it come at the Mouth so that they who carry good Tabacco to the Indies make a great profit of it we took on Board also several Chests of Schiras Wine and our Franks of the Ships Company carried some Bags of Nuts of which they hoped to make at least fifty per cent Bags of Nuts but you must take notice that this is a Commodity proper only for those who have not above twenty Piastres to lay out in Trading and pay no Freight such as the inferiour Officers or Sea-men for every Officer and Sea-man may put on Board so many Bags Freight free according to the Office he discharges in the Ship. Besides all these Goods there came on Board so many people with their Chests Jarrs and other luggage and such a quantity of Pullets Goats and Kids for in that Climate it is the best and wholesomest meat the Mutton there being good for nothing A great clutter in the Ship. that the Ship was thwackt full above and below Decks and so pestered that one had much a do to stir Many more Goods were offered to be put on Board but the Captain refused them having no more spare room With all this clutter and confusion we had the vexatious humour of the Captain to suffer who was so imperious and haughty The Captain a hasty man. that the least triffle offended him and he was continually quarrelling with one or other of the three Franks who were Officers in the Ship though they never gave him a word again when the fancy took him in the Head he would break out into such extravagancies of rage that he would fall a Cursing and abusing the first Man that stood in his way and sometimes he would challenge all the Ship to fight him when he came to Surrat adding that he was an Italian yes that he was He would suffer no body to say any thing to him and to hear him vapour there was no Man greater than he he had many debates with the Soubrescart at whom he had a great Pique as with the rest of the Armenians also sometimes he was so enflamed with rage that no less would serve his turn than to go a shoar and leave the Ship but then considering on it better he would burn her or run her against a Rock All the Armenians were to have their Heads broken nay more than that he was resolved to come some time or other and take all the Ships on those Seas and a hundred such extravagancies that blew away with the Wind the Pilot had no easie task of it for he could not endure that he should give his Opinion thinking it an indignity that any Man should seem to know more than himself When he was in all his rage no body made him answer no more than if he had been a Mad-man and indeed it was commonly the Shiras Wine or Congo Brandy that raised all this huff and din. When he was at a stand whom to fall soul on he turned to the Merchants that came last on Board who had their Goods in some place upon the Deck not knowing where else to put them he would tell them that he must have so much mony to suffer their Goods to lye in such a place or else threaten to throw them over Board if they told him that they had payed so much to the Soubrescart and that they knew not where to lye he shewed them little Cabins but he would have so much mony for the hire of them that no body would take them The truth is he was not altogether in the wrong as to this last point for they suffer not commonly Goods to lye upon the Deck because they hinder the working of the Ship and as for the Cabins it is usual to let them at a very dear rate in Indian Ships because of the many Passengers they have commonly on Board An hundred and sixteen souls on Board We were in all an hundred and sixteen on Board of whom about fourscore were Passengers all Armenians except the Sieur Manuel Mendez and his Company my Man and I. A Cabin five Foot long two Foot wide and three Foot high was let for a Toman and a half during the Voyage to Surrat and the Boat was let for fourscore Abassis It is the Custom that so soon as the Ship is out at Sea the Boat is halled in and lashed to Midships betwixt the Main-Mast and Fore-Mast Cabins belonging to the Captain In short all know that there are some Cabins which belong to the Captain as also all the Deck and those who would accommodate themselves there must pay for it especially when there is a Soubrescart on the Ship who takes the mony for the passage What a Passenger is furnished with for which you are allowed no more but Salt Water and Wood and these two last too are given out every day by Measure but you must hire a place to lye and be in from the Captain or some of the Officers of the Ship who have Cabins and have no share of the mony that you pay for your passage These things are all but triffles and have but little relation to the Voyage yet I thought it might not be a miss to mention them to shew how much Ships are commonly pestered in that passage for it is to be concluded that it is the same thing on Board all other Ships A Moorish or Mahometan Ship. nay in Moorish Ships the accommodation is worse where you have no Cabins and where Christians are used like Dogs only the noise is not so great there because commonly in them the Master has absolute command and is not so great a Fool as ours was The greatest inconvenience Men endure on Board these Ships is the want of water for though every one has no more allowed him but two measures a day to drink boil his Victuals water his Poultry c. each of which measures containing three Pints or there abouts and every Horse eight measures nevertheless it is many times wanting and then happy is he that hath a Jarr Care was taken to fill our two Cisterns and all our Casks with the best water that is drank at Congo and these Cisterns held sixteen Hogsheads a piece Monday the sixth of December a West Wind coming in with the New-Moon the Ship Masulipatan made Sail in the morning without firing a Gun and all day long such as were to go with us were coming on Board until five a Clock in the evening when we weighed made Sail and Steered away South We were then in five Fathom water and about half an hour after six we found six Fathom About seven a Clock the Wind veered about to North-West and we stood away South South-East Half an
hour after eight we had seven Fathom water About ten a Clock seven Fathom a Foot less About half an hour after eleven seven Fathom and then we set the Ships Head East South East but at midnight held our Course South Next morning half an hour after five we had thirteen Fathom water and were almost at an equal distance from the Isle of Queschimo which was to the North-East of us the Isle of Nabdgion or Pitombo South South-West of us and the Isle of Tonbo South East from us and we bore away East Queschimo is a great Isle but low Land though it hath several Hillocks Queschimo yet they are all so low that Sailing along this Island on any side you may see the Mountains of the main Land over it It lyes in length East and West is not very broad but twenty Leagues long it is to the East of Congo and West South-West from Comoron it is a fruitful and well inhabited Island the West end of it not being above a good League and a half from Congo and the East end about a League from Bender-Abassi On the East part of this Island there is a Fort before which Ships may come to an Anchor in six Fathom water to take in fresh water which is very good in this place The Portuguese formerly held this Fort and it may be worth the observing that though the Island be very near the main Land yet Barks and Galliots pass betwixt the two Nabdgion or Pitombo is a little low Desart Island lying South Nabgion or Pitombo Tonbo South-East from Queschimo Tonbo is another little low flat Island and Desart affoarding only a great many Antelopes and Conys It lyes to the East of Nabdgion or Pitombo and South from Congo from which it is but four Leagues distant Manuel Mendez who had much experience in those Seas being very young when he came into that Country where he hath during the space of many years made several Voyages made me observe that if any one should build a Fort on that Island and keep some Men of War there he might easily raise a Toll upon all the Ships that Trade in those Seas for they must of necessity Sail near to that Island on the one side or other Towards the South-East it has fifteen or twenty Wells of good water but especially one that is excellent and a good Road before it When the Portuguese were possessed of Mascate they came every year with some Galliots to the Isle of Tonbo to receive the Tribute that was paid them in all the Ports of those Seas and brought thither by those who were obliged to pay it The yearly Tribute they had from the Isle of Queschimo consisted of five Persian Horses and two Falcons Congo payed four hundred Tomans Bahrem sixteen thousand Abassis and Catif the half of the yearly profits of its Customs as for Bassora there was a Portuguese Agent that resided there who received a Chequin a day of the Basha and as often as the General came to that Town the Basha made him a Present This Island is encompassed all round with Banks under water nevertheless there is almost every where four six eight nay in some places nine Fathom water About half an hour after seven the Wind slackened much and we Steered South South East about eleven a Clock we found nine Fathom water and seeing we were almost becalmed and the Tide cast us to the Westward we were obliged to drop an Anchor half an hour after one a Clock at noon We were some three Leagues off of Sannas which was to the West North-West of us to the North-West and by West it makes a Peak but the Hill is higher than the Peak we went thither to take in water for the water is very good there though it be about two Leagues from the West point of Queschimo which was to the North-West of us About four a Clock we had a Breeze from South South-West which made us Steer our Course South-East About six a Clock we had twenty Fathom water Half an hour after seven the Wind turned North-West and we bore away East at eight a Clock we found eighteen Fathom water half an hour after that eighteen and a half and we stood away East and by North. About nine a Clock the Wind freshened a little and we had twenty Fathom water at ten a Clock we had one and twenty and about half an hour after ten we Steered our Course East Wednesday the ninth of December about day break the Wind ceased and we Steered still East the Isle of Angom was to the North-East of us and not far off and on the other side to the South-East we had a Port of Arabia Foelix called Julfar which is a good Harbour where many Indian Barks carrying mony come to buy Dates Julfar Pearl-Fishing and Pearls which are Fished all along that Coast from Mascat to Bahrem there is a good Castle at Julfar From that Port to the Cape of Mosandon the Coast of Arabia the Happy is all Mountanous bearing South-West and North-East and runs so near the Persian shoar that there is but five Leagues betwixt the main Land of Mosandon and the Isle of Lareca which is close by Comoron Betwixt Julfar and Mosandon Good Ports in the Gulf which are not set down in the Maps there are a great many good Ports that are not set down in the Maps where notwithstanding several Ships may safely Winter secure from all Winds and there is every where very good water About half an hour after seven in the morning the Wind turned North-East and we Steered our Course East South-East We were then off and on with the Point of Angom which bears West North-West Angom Angom is a little low Island to the South of Queschimo and reaches along Queschimo from West North-West to East South-East no body lives in it but two or three Fishermen who keep some Goats which they sell to Ships that come there to take in fresh water where it is very good Though this Island be very near to Queschimo yet Ships may pass betwixt them and all that take in water there shoot the Streight About noon we bore away South-East and at one a Clock having cast the Lead we had eight and thirty Fathom water we were then becalmed and made no way but by the Tide of Ebb which cast us upon Arabia so that we were obliged to stand off of it as far as we could to turn the Ships Head East North-East nevertheless towards the evening we were got very near the Mountains of Arabia wherefore to keep off of that shoar as much we could we Steered away North-East and by East and the Tide of floud did us some service About seven a Clock the Wind seemed as if it would get in to North but it blew so gentlely that it hardly curled the water Thursday the tenth of December about half an hour after four in the morning we
slackened much and we let loose the Main-Sail though we had still several gusts of Wind and Rain we had besides the Currents to struggle with which turned the Ships Head towards the Coast of Arabia with so much force that it was sometimes above a quarter of an hour before the Ship could be brought about again to our right Course of South and by East The Sea became smoother in the night-time though the Wind freshened a little Wednesday the sixteenth of December about break of day we made on Head six of the Ships which we left at Congo that were not to set out till some days after us during the late storms they had kept at Anchor at the Isle of Angom and the Wind being good this last night they had set Sail and coasted along Arabia and when we made them they were Steering away South-East to double Cape Jasques Half an hour after nine we set our Main-Top-Galant-Sail About a quarter after four a Clock we were got within a League and a half of the shoar of Persia off and on with a place where there are high white Hills a little up on the Land which with a blackish Rock that ranges all along the Sea-side makes a very pleasant prospect for seeing at a distance over that black a great many pieces of white Rock that rise in various figures one would take it to be a City and to the South of that imaginary Town upon the same Hill there is a piece of whiteish Rock broken off from the rest which looks like a Tower or Pillar upon a high Pedestal from thence it is but a League to Bombareca Bombareca Half an hour after five we were off of Bombareca which is only a very high square white Rock and flat on the top it seems to be very steep and at a distance one would take it for a square Fort this Rock is very near the Land and it is dangerous to approach it because it is surrounded with a Bank of Sand. A little after we came up with the Ships that were on Head of us and after the Selame or mutual Hailing they told us that it was but six days since they parted from Congo they had all signed Indentures to go in Consort and not to leave one another till they came to Surrat nevertheless one of them Hailed us and told us that if we would go in Consort with him he would leave the rest and our Captain and the Mate whose Brother was Mate of the other Ship having made answer that they were content he packt on all the Sail he could and followed us About six a Clock we got a Head of the Headmost of all the Ships and our Men handed the Main-Top-Galant-Sail and would have furled the Main-Sail to stay for our Consort who was a Stern of us but the Captain would first have the consent of the Souhreseart who was not of the same mind saying it was better to make the best of our way whilst the Wind was good so that we only took in our Main-Top-Galant-Sail and Steered our Course South-East and by South The Sea-men in the mean time kept a heavy muttering that we should leave the other Ship after we had promised to stay for her and occasioned her leaving of the rest but the clutter was far greater when our Mate who had turned in came out after an hours sleep and not seeing our Consort would needs spare Sail for when he was told what resolution had been taken he made a fearful noise complaining of our breach of promise but after all he was fain to have patience CHAP. IV. Of the rest of the Voyage to the Indies An Invention for Reckoning the Ships way WEdnesday about Sun set we began to keep reckoning of our way which is done in this manner At the Stern of the Ship they heave out a little piece of board about half a Foot long four Inches broad and very thin and smooth which is fastened to a Line at the same time they turn a minute Sand-Glass which is the sixtieth part of an hour and so long as this minute is running they veer off the Line but stop it so soon as the the Glass is out and when they have pulled it up they reckon how many Fathom have run off in that minutes time allowing for every seven Fathom a Miles running in an hour But it is to be observed that before the Glass be turned they let off with the Log fourteen Fathom of the Line and these fourteen Fathom are not accounted in the reckoning for they reckon none but those that run off whilst the Glass is running and therefore there is a mark to distinguish the beginning from the end of the first fourteen and at the instant that that mark begins to go off they turn the minute Glass This reckoning is found by experience to be pretty just and thereupon I told our Captain that I had seen the English do the same thing in the Mediterranean save that they did not allow those fourteen first Fathom and that they used but half a minute Glass or the hundred and twentieth part of an hour and that nevertheless they reckoned seven Fathom of the Line that run off during that minute for a Mile an hour of the Ships way that according to that reckoning he ought to allow fourteen Fathom for an hour his being a minute Glass and cut off these first fourteen He made me no other answer but that the Currents of the Ocean were stronger than those of the Mediterranean nevertheless one would think that since they reckon not those fourteen Fathom and turn not the Glass till they be run out they are altogether useless unless it be perhaps that they let them run off to the end that when those which they reckon begin to run the Log may be so far off that the Sea which beats against the Ship may not drive it neither forwards nor backwards and indeed before the Glass be turned they take notice whether or not the Log runs streight in the Ships wake and there is a red mark at the place where they begin to reckon to prevent their being mistaken otherwise if they should reckon as soon as they heaved out the Log the Ship runs some times so fast that they would not have time to consider whether or not the Log weâ—t streight in the Ships way Once an hour they heave that Log and then mark down every time how many knots or Fathoms of the Line has run out and every day at noon they cast up the account of their running so that they reckon by this means how many Miles the Ship has run in four and twenty hours that is to say from noon of the preceeding to noon of the present day and this they set off with a Compass upon the Sea Chart that they may know where the Ship is Though this be a very useful invention yet it is not too much to be relyed upon else
any flurry of Wind or rough water for the Sea was not at all moved At the same time these Storms began to appear in the Air others began to work in our Captains Head which caused a real Tempest in the Ship. He had drunk several Cups of Brandy which began to heat his Brains however he ordered the Sails to be taken in as it is usual when they see a Storm a comeing but presently after a fancy taking him in the Head that they accused him of timorousness and saying that he had heard some say he was affraid though no body had spoken a word he fell into a sudden rage and to shew that he was a Man of Courage commanded all the Sails high and low to be set again though the Mate prayed him not to do it and that the Sea-men stayed two or three Orders before they obeyed him which incensing him the more he swore that the Sails should stand whatsoever weather blew that he might make those dy for fear that had said he was affraid adding a thousand more impertinent raveings Never did Captain on a Stage shew so many Rodomontadoes and that for several hours during which he tried all the Ships patience without the least word of answer from any Man. At four a Clock the Wind turning West we stood away East South-East Half an hour after four we had a great shower of Rain which soon was over and immediately after the Wind fell a shifting into all the Points till at length it settled at North-East and we bore away East South-East In the mean time all our Sails were abroad except the Main-Top-Galant-Sail which he had likewise caused to be put on but was immediately after taken in About six a Clock the Wind veering about to East we Steered away South South-East At seven a Clock we were more becalmed than before and we turned the Ships Head East and by South Wednesday morning the three and twentieth of December one of our Sea-men took with a Hook a Fish called a Dorado Dorado a Fish which was about two Foot long and four Inches broad from the middle of the Back to the middle of the Belly but not very thick the Skin a long the Back and half way the Sides of it was of a Violet blue and the Belly of a yellowish white but full of little round Violet coloured specks it had along the Back a blue Skin streatched as it were upon little bones or prickles which made it bristle up about an inch and a half high the Eyes of it were large and round under the Gills it had on each side a Fin three Fingers breadth long which stood out very streight and two others under the Throat near one another and another at the Roots and then widening by degrees to the points it had two more of the same fashion near the Tail but it had no Teeth It was very brisk and lively when it was pulled out of the water but as the force of it spent that Skin which before was streatched like a piece of Cloath upright upon the Back of it flagged and fell flat to the Body as well as its Fins They told me that there were some of those Fish a Fathom and a half long that they call them Doradoes that is to say gilt because the ground of their Skin is in some manner of the colour of Gold the English call them Dolphins It is good meat and of easie digestion the Flesh of it is firm and delicate and it feeds on a kind of small flying Fish which being pursued rise out of the water and fly above a Ships length falling sometimes into Ships as one did into ours On Sunday the seven and twentieth of December I handled and considered it at leisure it was shaped like a Herring and seven inches long the Back of it was of a very dark blue and the Belly white on each side it had a Wing almost five inches long and about four inches broad these Wings are only a thin Skin of a very obscure blue colour streatched upon little Nerves or Bones which reach from the side of the Fish to the extremity of the Skin When it is pursued by the Doradoes it leaps out of the Water and flies in the Air so long as the Wings of it are moist and when they dry it falls again into the water When these Wings are dry they fold together like a Fan and that Fishes Wings which I Handled were folded in that manner it is very good to eat We could have no Observation at noon because the Sun was over Clouded and must then be satisfied with our dead reckoning according to which we had made but nine Leagues from noon to noon At eight a Clock at night a Coal of fire fell out of a Tobacco-Pipe into the Gun-Room through the hole of the Whip-staff and by good fortune the two Women slaves of Manuel Mendez who lodged in that place soon perceived it and put it out and then being all in a fright they cried out for help they who had done this were enquired after but in vain for it was impossible to find out the Authors had not God in his great mercy preserved us from the danger of that accident we must all have unfortunately perished Thursday the four and twentieth of December at four of the Clock in the morning there fell a great deal of Rain and it continued showring by intervals with great Thunder-Claps till half an hour after six when the Rain was quite over we had a good Wind from North-West which made us run a League and a half an hour but it was close weather and the Captain ordered to Steer away East whereby we altered our Course and stood in to Land when I asked him the reason of it he told me he was affraid he might find the Wind at East North-East which would force us out from the place to which we were bound but the truth was he had a mind to make the Land that he might know where we were for neither he the mate nor Gunner could tell it At eight a Clock the Wind turned Easterly and we stood away South South-East At nine a Clock it shifted to South-East and we Steered South which was a very bad Course for following it we must have run far below the place whither we were bound About ten a Clock the Wind being got into the South South-East we bore away East but all of a sudden the Wind slackened At noon we had the Wind at South and we Steered away East South-East We could have no Observation this day neither because of Cloudy weather and they found by their dead Reckoning that we had made nine Leagues most of this way we had made since six a Clock in the morning for the eighteen hours before we had advanced but little or nothing at all A quarter after twelve the Wind turned South-West and we Steered our Course North-East but we were presently after becalmed
At two a Clock we had a breeze from North-West and we bore away South-East and by East About six a Clock the Wind slackened much About seven a Clock our Ships Head stood South-East Friday the five and twentieth of December at six a Clock in the morning it blew a West North-West Wind and we steered on our Course still South-East About seven a Clock the Sky was overcast with Clouds which brought Rain with them and we saw some more Spouts at a pretty good distance and a Weather-Gall this Weather-Gall was like a Segment of a Rain-Bow rising from the Horizon about three degrees or if you will it seemed to be three Foot high Sometimes they appear over a Ship and that is commonly a presage of a Tempest and the Portuguese call this Phenomenon an Oxes Eye About eight a Clock it blew a pretty fresh Gale from North but immediately it veered about to North-East and became very weak At noon we were by our Observations in three and twenty degrees two and fifty minutes Latitude and had made from noon to noon thirteen Leagues Then the Captain and Mate made account that we were eight or ten Leagues off of the Land of Sindy and about five and twenty Leagues from Jaquelte for my part by what I could make out by my Map we were twenty Leagues off Malan and to the Southward of Malan and forty Leagues from Sindy and near threescore Leagues from Jaquelte and this agreed with the Gunners Observation but he durst not say any thing for fear of quarelling with the Captain who thought every body ignorant in respect of himself and nevertheless it was found afterwards that he and the Mate were in the mistake About four a Clock the Wind turned East South-East and we Steered North-East About five a Clock we had a great shower of Rain from a thick Cloud over head which being past we had the Wind at South-East and bore away North-East Half an hour after six we had Rain again with Lightning but we were becalmed and turned the Ships Head North-East At seven a Clock the Wind turned South and by East and we bore away East and by South Half an hour after ten we were becalmed but about eleven a Clock had a great flurry which made much noise at first and this made us furl all our Sails but a great shower of Rain soon carried it off and the Sea being smooth we Steered away South-East and by South At midnight we cast the Lead but though they veered out sixty Fathom of Rope yet we had no ground which was like to have made the Captain mad for shame for he believed us to be very near Land and he fell into a Passion with the Mate saying that he had not left importuning him for two days to heave out the Lead We were all night becalmed though at times we had several showers of Rain Saturday the six and twentieth of December about seven a Clock there blew a gentle Gale from East North-East which made us Steer away South-East and by South About half an hour after nine the Wind being all Easterly we stood away South-East then master Manuel Mendez who perceived very well that no body knew where we were advised the Captain to stand in to Land and gratifie the Pilot which highly offended him saying that since they took him for an ignorant blockhead for the future he would only sleep and take his rest and let the Ship go which way she pleased and that to content us he would put back and make the Land at Jasques however this went no farther About ten a Clock the Wind turned East North-East and we stood away South-East At noon the Gunner found by his Observations that we were in twenty three degrees forty five minutes the Captain in twenty three degrees five minutes and the Mate in twenty three fifteen minutes and in four and twenty hours we had only made about six Leagues That day we began to see of those Birds which the Portuguese call Rabo de Junco Rabo de Junco a Fowl. and are a kind of Sea-Mews only they are bigger and have the Tail all of a piece and pointed like a Rush wherefore they are called Rush Tails and they keep upon the water as the Sea-Mews do At one a Clock the Wind slackened and chopped into the East and we Steered South and by East About four a Clock we tackt and stood away North. About half an hour after five the Wind having veered about to East North-East we Steered South-East About half an hour after seven the Wind turned North-East and by East About ten a Clock it was full North-East and we bore away East South-East Sunday morning the seven and twentieth of December at five of the Clock the Wind turned East and by North and we Steered our Course South-East and by South About nine a Clock we bore away South-East because the Wind was at East North-East and blew pretty fresh Our Officers took an Observation at noon and were again of different opinions the Captain had two and twenty degrees fifty two minutes the Mate twenty three and the Gunner three and twenty degrees and two minutes and in twenty four hours we had made fourteen Leagues In the Evening a flying Fish leaped into our Ship. The Wind freshened so much in the night-time that we were obliged to furl our Top Sails Monday noon the twenty eighth of December the Captain found out by his Observation that we were in the Latitude of twenty two degrees eight minutes and the Gunner in twenty two degrees eighteen minutes in four and twenty hours we had made fourteen Leagues That day we saw a great many Weeds or Herbs floating upon the water which the Portuguese call Sargaso Herb Sargaso and that is one sign of being near the Land of the Indies many such are also to be seen towards Brasil The stalk of that Herb is small blackish and as supple as a hair the Leaves of it are long and narrow and a little jagged besides the Leaves it hath a great many small clear and transparent Berries as soft as little Goosberries that stick to the stalk This Herb grows upon the Rocks in the Sea and being torn off by storm it floats upon the water till it be cast a shoar About two in the afternoon the Wind slackened much and therefore we spread our Main-Top and Fore-Top-Sails the Sea which had been very high before growing calm and smooth within a few hours Tuesday morning the nine and twentieth of December about seven a Clock the Wind was at North North-East and we Steered our Course East At noon the Gunner found that we were in one and twenty degrees forty four minutes Latitude and that in the space of twenty four hours we had made thirteen Leagues and a half at midnight we Steered East and by South that we might keep off of the Banks that are towards Diu our Company thinking themselves nearer to
water of the Sea and the first big enough to admit of Ships being besides defended by several stone-Bastions built very high upon a Rock which are mounted with many great Guns that play on all Hands so that it will be no easie task to take it unless being unprovided of Victuals an Enemy might attempt to starve it it hath no water but Cistern-water yet every House has its Cistern There is a good Port in Diu and heretofore all the Trade of the Indies was managed there and at Chaoul Chaoul belonging to the Portuguese which is another place belonging to the Portuguese but the Dutch so ordered matters that it was wholly removed to Surrat where it is at present About seven a Clock we found by observing the Land that we had made eight Leagues since the day before at noon for you must know that so soon as they make Land they heave the Log no more to know the Ships running because it is well enough known by the Land. At eight a Clock the Wind turned East and by North and we stood away South-East and by South About eleven a Clock it turned East South-East and we Steered away South That day we took no Observation because the Land interposed betwixt us and the Horizon nevertheless we lost sight of it immediately after noon and about six a Clock we tackt about and stood North-East and by East About seven a Clock we tackt again About eight a Clock we were becalmed Half an hour after nine we tackt again a third time and at ten a Clock having cast the Lead we had thirty eight Fathom water About eleven a Clock we had a good Wind at North North-East which made us bear away East Next day the second of January about five a Clock in the morning the Wind having veered about to North-East we Steered our Course East South East At break of day having furled our Main-Top-Sail we put out our Colours and waited for the Masulipatan which was close up with us he presently also shewed his Colours and within a quarter of an hour after sheered a long on head of us we hailed one another but could have no discourse together because he had stood too much on head and in a trice fell off from us This was the Hollanders fault for he was vexed that Master Manuel Mendez would not Sail with him though he had invited him and besides he was angry that we should have come up with him which was the reason he would have no Conversation with us though ever since the day before he might many times have born up near enough to have Discoursed with us when we were upon our tacks Half an hour after six we sounded and found six and twenty Fathom water About seven a Clock the Wind came in to East North-East and we Steered South-East About eight a Clock it blew much fresher from East and by North which convincing us that we were off of the mouth of the Bay of Cambaya The mouth of the Bay of Cambaya we steered away South-East and by South and about nine a Clock the Wind turning due East we stood away South South East We could have no Observation that day because of the motion of the Ship and must rest satisfied to know that from noon to noon we had made fifteen Leagues About five a Clock the Captain of the Musulipatan being in a better humour bore up with us and after the Selam and three or four Cups drunk to our good Voyage he asked us if we would go in Consort and we agreed to it About six a Clock the Wind ceased and left us becalmed About half an hour after ten we had a small Gale from North North East which made us bear away East At midnight the Wind veering in to North-East we steered away East South-East Then we heaved the Lead and found forty Fathom water Sunday morning the third of January we perceived several peices of Wood floating upon the water and some Snakes bigger than ones Thumb four or five Foot long and of a blackish colour and about noon we saw the Sea water look whitish these were so many signs that we were near the Indian shoar At noon the Gunner took an Observation but how right I cannot tell because of the Ships great Travel and he found that we were in the Latitude of nineteen degrees fifty four minutes but we could not tell how much we had run for in twenty four hours time we had not heaved the Log knowing that we were near Land we only cast the Lead and found thirty three Fathom water having cast it out again at three a Clock in the afternoon we had no more but thirty Fathom About five a Clock the Wind turned East North East and we stood away South-East Half an hour after five we had again thirty three Fathom water About eight a Clock the Wind was got into East and by North and we steered South-East and by South and had still thirty three Fathom water About half an hour after ten the Wind turned North and by East a brisk Gale and we bore away East and by North. At midnight we had twenty five Fathom water Monday the fourth of January half an hour after five in the morning we had the Wind at North-East and steered away East South-East but this hot Wind blew so fresh that we were obliged to furl our Main-Top-Sail and then we had twenty five Fathom water A North-East Wind blows commonly on that Coast all the Moon of December and the beginning of the Moon of January and after it comes the North-West Wind. About eleven a Clock the Wind flackning a little we unfurled our Main-Top-Sail again At noon the Gunner found that we were in the Latitude of nineteen degrees twenty four minutes and having cast the Lead we had two and twenty Fathom water and at five a Clock the same Half an hour after five the Wind turning North North-East we steered away East At nine a Clock we had only twenty Fathom water and at midnight but eighteen Tuesday the fifth of January after midnight the Wind was at North-East and by East but a very easie Gale and we bore away South-East and by East At five a Clock in the morning we had but four Fathom water At break of day we made the Land of Bassaim on Head which was very near us and we had made it the day before if it had not been hazy upon the Land. Bassaim Bassaim is a Town held by the Portuguese lying about the nineteenth degree and a half of North Latitude There are very high Mountains at this place At six a Clock we tacked and stood away North and by East At two a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Anchor in fourteen Fathom water because it began to Ebb and it is the custom for Ships that put into the Bay of Cambaya when they are near shoar to Tide it only up unless they have the
Wind in Poop and a fresh Gale from South for those that go upon a Wind against Tide are driven back instead of going forward the Tides running very strong on that Coast and South Winds being rare Half an hour after eight at night we weighed Anchor and stood away North and by West the Wind being then North-East and by East Wednesday the sixth of January at two a Clock in the morning we came to an Anchor in seventeen Fathom water Having weighed again about nine a Clock we steered North North-East the Wind was then at East a little to the Southward but so weak that at ten a Clock it left us becalmed About three a Clock we had a Gale from West when we least expected it for it seldom blows on that Coast that was the reason we came not to an Anchor though it began to Ebb and we stood away North and by East Half an hour after five we had twenty Fathom water and at six a Clock we were becalmed Half an hour after eight we had the Wind at East North-East which made us steer away South-East but at ten a Clock the Tide of Flood beginning to make it behoved us to tack and stand away North and by East Thursday the seventh of January about four a Clock in the morning we came to an Anchor in ninteen Fathom water About nine a Clock a small Gale blowing from South-East we weighed though it was above an hour and a half to Flood and bore away East North-East but seeing the Wind did not last about half an hour after eleven we came to an Anchor again in seven Fathom water though it was Flood then but it did us no kindness because it carried us to Surrat and we were bound for Daman being so near it that some of the Ship discovered the Steeple of a Church in the Town Half an hour after one of the Clock we had a small Gale from North-East which made us presently weigh and bear away South-East and sounding every quarter of an hour we found first fifteen Fathom water then twelve after that ten and at least nine About four a Clock we steered away East South-East about five a Clock South South-East a little after we were becalmed and having cast out the Lead found eight Fathom water About six a Clock we turned the Ships Head East and by South half an hour after North-East and by East About seven a Clock we came to an Anchor in eight Fathom water and about a good League and a half from Land because there was no Wind and the Tide of Ebb cast us toward the South-West Next morning about nine a Clock we weighed though it was still low water only we had a Gale from South-East we steered East North-East that we might stand in to shoar and about half an hour after eleven we came to an Anchor a League off of the Town of Daman and Westward from it I did not go a shoar because the Captain told me that I could not stay there above an hour or two having ordered the Boat that carried a shoar Master Manuel Mendez to return immediately and being resolved so soon as he had unloaded his Goods to weigh Anchor and wait for no body I did not think going a shoar to be worth the pains of running the risk of being taken for there are Malabar Barks commonly upon the scout especially in the evening skulking behind some Points of Land and when they perceive any small Vessel make up to it and carry it away Daman is a Town belonging to the Portuguese who have made it very strong Daman Latitude of Daman and have a good Fort in it It lyes in the twentieth degree of North Latititude and is fifteen Leagues distant from Bassaim and forty from Diu. They have most delicate Bread at Daman and drink only water of a Tanquier but which they say is very good From Daman to Cape Comorin Cape Comorin a range of very high Hills runs along the Coast This Town has no other Harbour but a little Canal or Cut which is full at high water and remains dry when the Tide is out small Barks come into it but Ships ride out in the Road. Ours stayed there a little more than four and twenty hours for the Boats that were to come for the Goods of Master Manuel Mendez came not a Board of us till the next day which was Saturday it was noon before we had loaded them and it behoved us afterwards to stay till two a Clock for our Boat though we had fired a Gun in the morning as a signal for them to put off but the Sea-men being got drunk made never the more haste for that we did not weigh Anchor then till three a Clock in the afternoon and we stood away North the Wind being then at West North-West About seven a Clock we were forced to come to an Anchor because the Wind was down and the Tide of Ebb made us lose way About nine a Clock with a little Gale at East we weighed again and bore away North in five Fathom and a half water and for above an hour we had no more Next day being Sunday the tenth of January by break of day we were got within a Cannon shot of Land which was to our Starboard and to the Larboard we saw two great Ships at Anchor they were presently known to be Ships belonging to the King of Mogul which Trade to Moca Ships of the King of Mogul whither they carry at every Voyage above two Millions We saw many other Ships on Head some at Anchor and others under Sail amongst these there were two Dutch Ships who failed not to send off their Boats to know who we were taking us to have been an English Ship. At length half an hour after ten we came to an Anchor at the Bar of Surrat The Bar of Surrat in six Fathom and a half water and presently a Custom-House Waiter came on Board of us being there accidentally for commonly they come not till after the Captain be gone a shoar Next day Monday the eleventh of January several of the Custom-House Boats came on Board of us to take in all the Passengers and their Goods we went down into them and they put off from the Ship about half an hour after two at first we made towards shoar apace the Wind being good but it being low water an hour after we stuck a ground and it behoved us to stay for Flood to get off again which was not till half an hour after three when we weighed again the Anchor which we had dropped We went on then with the Tide for the Wind was contrary and within half an hour after ran a ground again where we were another half hour before we could get off having afterwards advanced a little farther we saw a small Isle to our Right Hand and from thence the Channel grows narrower and narrower About eight a Clock we passed by the
Castle of Surrat Arrival at the Custom-House of Surrat which was to our Right Hand and a little after arrived before the Custom-House where we came to an Anchor and spent the rest of the night Next day being Tuesday the twelfth of January about ten a Clock in the morning we were brought into the Custom-House where we were searched in a very odd manner of which I shall give an account in another place by the help of God who hath safely brought us hither praised for ever be his name for it Amen Laudate dominum omnes gentes c. Gloria patri filio spiritui sancto sicut erat in principio c. FINIS THE TRAVELS OF Monsieur de Thevenot The Third PART Containing the Relation of INDOSTAN THE New Moguls And of other PEOPLE and COUNTRIES OF THE INDIES Now made English LONDON Printed in the Year MDCLXXXVII THE THIRD PART OF THE TRAVELS OF Mr. de Thevenot CONTAINING The Relation of Indostan the New Moguls and of other People and Countries of the Indies BOOK I. CHAP. I. I Set out from Balsora in the Ship Hopewel the sixth of November 1665. six Days before the beginning of the Monson and the tenth of January 1666 arrived at the Bar of Surrat Bar of Surrat so that I had above two Months Voyage of it That place which is about six French Leagues from Surrat is called the Bar because of the many Sand-banks that hinder great Ships from entring the River before they be unloaded and the proper season for Sailing on the Indian-Sea is called Mousson or Monson by corruption of Moussem Monson I have mention'd in the Second Part of my Travels that that season wherein there is a constant Trade-Wind upon that Sea begins commonly at the end of October that it lasts to the end of April and that that is the time to go from Persia to the Indies if one would avoid the Tempests Next Day being the Eleventh about half an hour after two a Clock in the Morning I went with the rest of the Passengers into a Boat and at Eight at Night we arrived before Surrat near to the Custom-house where coming to an Anchor I past the Night in the Boat and next Day the twelfth of Jaauary about ten of the Clock in the Morning the Custom-house being open our Boat upon the signal given put in to Land as near as it could From thence we were carried ashore upon Mens backs who came up to the middle in the Water to take us up and immediately we were led into a large Court having crossed it we entred into a Hall where the Customer waited for us to have us searched Visited we were but in so severe and vexatious a manner that tho' I did expect it and had prepared my self for it before hand yet I had hardly patience enough to suffer the Searchers to do whatsoever they had a mind to A strict search tho' I had nothing about me but my Cloaths and indeed it is incredible what caution and circumspection those People use to prevent being cheated And in this manner they proceed The Bar is six Leagues from the Town So soon as a Ship comes to an Anchor at the Bar the Master is oblig'd to to go ashore in his Boat and acquaint the Custom-house with his arrival and presently he is search'd from Head to Foot at the same time a Waiter is sent on board the Vessel to hinder them from breaking bulk running any thing ashore or on board another Ship that hath been already searched and in the mean time if they have still time enough they send off several Barks to bring the Men and Goods ashore to the Custom-house The Waiter has for his dues from every Passenger an Abassy which is worth about eighteen Pence Abassy 18 pennce Half a Roupie 15 pence and the Bark has half a Roupie a Head that is about fifteen Pence for the passage If when the Passengers come to the Town the Custom-house be not as yet shut they presently come ashore but if it be they must tarry in the Bark In the mean while it is never open but from ten in the Morning till Noon and it requires a whole Tide to come from the Bar to the Town unless by good luck one have the Wind and Tide with him Seeing the rest of the Day and all the following Night are to be spent in the Bark Waiters are set over it Who keep constant Watch to see that none enter in or go out When the Custom-house is opened and the Passengers suffered to come ashore then double diligence is used and the number of Waiters encreased One Bark advances at a time and she lands just against the Custom-house Gate which is upon the Key There is a Kiochk or covered Pavillion where Sentinels are placed to observe and view all that goes in or comes out of the Bark and the Custom-house Porters go into the Water and bring the Men and Goods ashore upon their Backs Pions In the mean time there are upon the River-side a great number of Pions who are Men ready to be employ'd in any kind of Service and to be hired by the Day if one pleases as the Staffieri in Italy are These Pions of the Custom-house have great Canes in their Hands to keep off the People with that those who come ashore may not have the least communication with any body and for the greater security they draw up in both sides and make a Lane for the Passengers This is no inconsiderable service to new comers for if any body came near them they would certainly be accused of smuggling Goods and then besides the Caning they would be expos'd to they must also expect to be roundly fined and some have been fined in above Ten thousand Livres though in reality they had not saved a bit of Goods And indeed they who have a mind to conceal any thing and defraud the Custom-house order their Affairs more truly They stay not till they come to Surrat there to beg the assistance of their Friends I have known some bring in a great many precious Stones and other rich Jewels which the Officers of the Custom-house never saw nor got one Farthing by because the Dutch Commander was their Friend and had assisted them From that Court of the Custom-house one is led into the Hall where the chief Customer sits on his Divan after the manner of the Orientals and his Clerks underneath him I shall say nothing of the Indian Divans in this place because they are like to those of Turky and Persia The Passengers enter into that place one after another and but one at a time Presently they write down in a Register the name of him that enters and then he is searched He must take off his Cap or Turban his Girdle Shoes Stockins and all the rest of his Cloaths if the Searchers think fit They feel his Body all over and handle
is to answer for the Robberies committed within his Territories And the truth is he is as exact as possibly he can be to hinder them and to cause restitution to be made of what is taken especially if it be Merchants Goods or other things of consequence And my Coach-man told me that one day having lost an Ox he went to the Raja to demand his Ox The Raja sent for those who he thought had stoln it and causing them to be cudgelled till one of them confessing he had it he obliged him to bring it out and restore it to the Coach-man who was to give him only a Roapie for the blows he had received But the Raja of the Gratiates do's much more for if he that comes to complain have not time to stay till what he hath lost be found it is enough if he tell the place of his abode and he fails not to send it him back by one of his People though it be eight days Journey off He is so much a Gentleman that most commonly he sends Presents to People of fashion who pass by Bilpar and do's them all the good Offices they desire of him Seeing the Caravans that pass by that place on their way to Agra pay him ten Roupies a Man The Raja treats the Caravan gratis he treats the whole Caravan gratis and sends Provisions and Victuals into the Camp which he orders his Cooks to dress These do what they can to please the Caravan and earn some Pechas from them and they are reckoned the best Cooks in the Countrey but in truth their Ragoes are not at all good Nor do's their Master forget to send Dancing Girls to divert the Company and when they are ready to go he furnishes the Caravan with several Horse-men for their security until they be out of his Jurisdiction His Territories comprehend all the Villages from Cambaye to Baroche and all his Subjects are called Gratiates Next Day I came to the Town of Baroche and stay'd only a few Hours to refresh my Men and Oxen. The Officers of the Custom-house asked me at parting If I had any Merchants-goods and having answered them that I had none they took my word and used me civily So I crossed the River at Ouclisser from whence next day I went to Surrat CHAP. VII Of Surrat THe Town of Surrat lies in one and twenty Degrees and some Minutes of North Latitude and is watered by the River Tapty Surrat When I came there the Walls of it were only of Earth The Fortification of Surrat and almost all ruinous but they were beginning to build them of Brick a Fathom and a half thick they gave them but the same height and nevertheless they design'd to fortifie the place as strong as it could be made because of the Irruption that a Raja of whom I shall speak hereafter had made into it some time before However the Ingeneer hath committed a considerable fault in the setting out of his Walls He hath built them so near the Fort that the Town will be safe from the Canon of the Castle and those who defend it may easily be galled by Musquet-shot from the Town These new Walls render the Town much less than it was before for a great many Houses made of Canes that formerly were within its Precinct are now left out for which those who are concerned pretend Reparation Surrat is but of an indifferent bigness The bigness of Surrat and it is hard to tell exactly the number of its Inhabitants because the seasons render it unequal There are a great many all the Year round but in the time of the Monsson that is to say in the time when Ships can go and come to the Indies without danger in the Months of January February March and even in April the Town is so full of People that Lodgings can hardly be had and the three Suburbs are all full It is inhabited by Indians Persians Arabians Turks Franks The Inhabitants of Surrat Armenians and other Christians In the mean time its usual Inhabitants are reduc'd to three Orders amongst whom indeed neither the Franks nor other Christians are comprehended because they are but in a small number in comparison of those who profess another Religion Moors at Surrat These three sorts of Inhabitants are either Moors Heathens or Parsis by the word Moors are understood all the Mahometans Moguls Persians Arabians or Turks that are in the Indies though they be not uniform in their Religion the one being Sunnis and the others Chiais I have observed the difference betwixt them in my Second Part. Gentils at Surrat The Inhabitants of the Second Order are called Gentils or Heathens and these adore Idols of whom also there are several sorts Those of the third rank are the Parsis who are likewise called Gaures or Atechperest Adorers of the Fire These profess the Religion of the Ancient Persians and they retreated into the Indies when Calyfe Omar reduced the Kingdom of Persia under the power of the Mahometans There are People vastly rich in Surrat Rich Merchants in Surrat English and Dutch Factories at Surrat and a Banian a Friend of mine called Vargivora is reckoned to be worth at least eight Millions The English and Dutch have their Houses there which are called Lodges and Factories They have very pretty Appartments and the English have settled the general Staple of their trade there There may be very well an hundred Catholick Families in Surrat The Castle is built upon the side of the River at the South end of the Town to defend the entry against those that would attack it The Castle of Surrat by the Tapty It is a Fort of a reasonable bigness square and flanked at each corner by a large Tower. The Ditches on three sides are filled with Sea-water and the fourth side which is to the West is washed by the River Several pieces of Canon appear on it mounted and the Revenues of the King that are collected in the Province are kept there which are never sent to Court but by express Orders The entry to it is on the West side by a lovely Gate which is in the Bazar or Meidan The Custom-house is hard by and that Castle has a particular Governour as the Town has another The Houses of Surrat The Houses of this Town on which the Inhabitants have been willing to lay out Money are flat as in Persia and pretty well built but they cost dear because there is no Stone in the Countrey seeing they are forc'd to make use of Brick and Lime a great deal of Timber is employ'd which must be brought from Daman by Sea the Wood of the Countrey which is brought a great way off being much dearer because of the Land-Carriage Brick and Lime are very dear also and one cannot build an ordinary House at less charge than five or six hundred Livres for Brick and twice as much for Lime The Houses are covered
he orders to be made upon the Water or in the open place Palaces of the great men at Agra This Palace is accompanied with five and twenty or thirty other very large ones all in a line which belong to the Princes and other great Lords of Court and all together afford a most delightful prospect to those who are on the other side of the River which would be a great deal more agreeable were it not for the long Garden-walls which contribute much to the rendering the Town so long as it is There are upon the same line several less Palaces and other Buildings All being desirous to enjoy the lovely prospect and convenience of the Water of the Gemna endeavoured to purchase ground on that side which is the cause that the Town is very long but narrow and excepting some fair Streets that are in it all the rest are very narrow and without Symmetry Square places at Agra Before the Kings Palace there is a very large Square and twelve other besides of less extent within the Town But that which makes the Beauty of Agra besides the Palaces I have mentioned Quervenseras of Agra are the Quervanseras which are above threescore in number and some of them have six large Courts with their Portico's that give entry to very commodious Appartments where stranger Merchants have their Lodgings There are above eight hundred Baths in the Town Baths of Agra and a great number of Mosques of which some serve for Sanctuary Sepulchres of Agra There are many magnificent Sepulchres in it also several great Men having had the ambition to build their own in their own life-time or to erect Monuments to the memory of their Fore-fathers The Sepulchre of King Ecbar King Gebanguir caused one to be built for King Ecbar his Father upon an eminence of the Town It surpasses in magnificnce all those of the Grand Signiors but the fairest of all is that which Cha-Gehan Erected in honour of one of his Wives called Tadge-Mehal whom he tenderly loved and whose death had almost cost him his life I know that the Learned and curious Mr. Bernier hath taken memoires of it and therefore I did not take the pains to be exactly informed of that work Only so much I 'll say that this King having sent for all the able Architects of the Indies to Agra he appointed a Council of them for contriving and perfecting the Tomb which he intended to Erect and having setled Salaries upon them he ordered them to spare no cost in making the finest Mausoleum in the World if they could They compleated it after their manner and succeeded to his satisfaction The beautiful Mausoleum of Tadge-Mehal The stately Garden into which all the parts of that Mausoleum are distributed the great Pavillions with their Fronts the beautiful Porches the lofty dome that covers the Tomb the lovely disposition of its Pillars the raising of Arches which support a great many Galleries Quiochques and Terrasses make it apparent enough that the Indians are not ignorant in Architecture It is true the manner of it seems odd to Europeans yet it hath its excellency and though it be not like that of the Greeks and other Ancients yet the Fabrick may be said to be very lovely The Indians say that it was twenty years in building that as many Men as could labour in that great work were employed and that it was never interrupted during that long space of time The Tomb of King Gehan-guir This King hath not had the same tenderness for the memory of his Father Gehanguir as for that of his Wife Tadge-Mehal for he hath raised no magnificent Monument for him And that Great Mogul is Interred in a Garden where his Tomb is only Painted upon the portal The Air of Agra Now after all the Air of Agra is very incommodious in the Summer-time and it is verv likely that the excessive heat which scorches the Sands that environ this Town was one of the chief causes which made King Cha-Gehan change the Climate King Cha-Gehan prisoner in his Palace and chuse to live at Dehly Little thought this Prince that one day he would be forced to live at Agra what aversion soever he had to it and far less still that he should be Prisoner there in his own Palace and so end his days in affliction and trouble That misfortune though Auran-Zeb imprisoned the King his Father befel him and Auran-Zeb his third Son was the cause of it who having got the better of his Brothers both by cunning and force made sure of the Kings Person and Treasures by means of Soldiers whom he craftily slipt into the Palace and under whose Custody the King was kept till he died So soon as Auran-Zeb knew that his Father was in his Power Auran-Zeb proclaimed King. he made himself be proclaimed King He held his Court at Dehly and no party was made for the unfortunate King though many had been raised by his bounty and liberalities From that time forward Auran-Zeb Reigned without trouble The death of King Cha-gehan and the King his Father dying in Prison about the end of the year One thousand six hundred sixty six he enjoyed at ease the Empire and that so famous Throne of the Moguls which he had left in the Prisoners appartment to divert him with He added to the precious Stones that were set about it those of the Princes his Brothers and particularly the Jewels of Begum-Saheb his Sister who died after her Father and whose death Begum-Saheb Sister to Auran-Zeb as it was said was hastened by Poison And in fine he became absolute Master of all after he had overcome and put to death Dara-Cha his Eldest Brother whom Cha-Gehan had designed for the Crown The Sepulchre of Cha-Gehan That King is Interred on the other side of the River in a Monument which he began but is not finished The Town of Agra is Populous as a great Town ought to be but not so as to be able to send out Two hundred thousand sighting men into the Field as some have written The Palaces and Gardens take up the greatest part of it so that its extent is no infallible Argument of the number of its Inhabitants The ordinary Houses are low and those of the commoner sort of People are but Straw containing but few People a piece and the truth is one may walk the Streets without being crouded and meet with no throng but when the Court is there But at that time I have been told there is great confusion and infinite numbers of People to be seen and no wonder indeed seeing the Streets are narrow and that the King besides his Houshold who are many is always attended by an Army for his Guard and the Rajas Omras Mansepdars and other great Men have great Retinues and most part of the Merchants also follow the Court not to reckon a vast number of Tradesmen and thousands of
read the Alcoran King Ecbar had a mind to try as well as the rest Ecbars Vow for obtaining of Male-Children the Vertue of this same Cogea-Mondy and because he had no Male-Children he had recourse to his Intercession to obtain them He made a Vow to go and visit his Tomb and resolved upon the Journey in the bourg of Agra Though it be a walk of threescore and two Leagues from Agra to Azmer yet he performed the Pilgrimage on foot King Ecbar made a Pilgrimage of 60 Leag on foot having ordered Stone-seats to be made at certain distances for him to rest on Nevertheless he was quite tired out for being of a hot and stirring Nature he could hardly lay a constraint upon himself to walk softly so that he fell sick upon it He entered bare-footed as the rest did into the Chappel of the Mock-Saint There he made his Prayers gave great Charity and having performed his Devotion and read the Epitaph of Cogea Mondy which is written there in the Persian Language he returned back to the place from whence he came As he passed by Fetipour he consulted a certain Dervish named Selim Selim a Dervish who was esteemed very devout and the Mahometans say that this Man told him that God had heard his Prayers and that he should have three Sons at that The Prophecy of Selim the Dervish Ecbar was so well pleased with this Prophecy especially when it began to be fulfilled that he gave his Eldest Son the name of the Dervish Selim that Town which was called Sycary the name of Fetipour Sicary which signifies a place of Joy and Pleasure and that he built a very stately Palace there with a Design to make it the Capital of his Empire Azmer is a Town of an indifferent bigness but when the Great Mogol comes there there is no room to stir in it especially when there is any Festival because besides the Court and Army all the People of the Country about flock thither and some disorder always happens Let us speak a little of the Feast of Neurous which King Gehanguir Celebrated at Azmer where he happened to be one New Years day Neurous for Neurous signifies New Day and by that is meant the First day of the Year which begins in March when the Sun enters into Aries CHAP. XXVIII Of the Feast of the New Year THe Memoires that were given me observe The Feast of the New Year that some days before the Festival all the Palace was adorned and especially the Places and Halls into which People were suffered to enter There was nothing all over but Sattin Velvet Cloath and Plates of Gold The Halls were hung with rich Stuffs Flower'd with Gold and Silver And that where the Great Mogul appear'd in his Throne was the most magnificent of all The Ornaments of Neurous The Cloath of State that covered it was all set with Pretious Stones and the Floor was covered with a Persian Carpet of Gold and Silver Tissue The other Halls had in like manner their Cloaths of State Their Foot-Carpets and other Ornaments and the Courts were also decked the most considerable of them with lovely Tents pitched there though they were not so Pompous as those which are pitched in the Capital Cities of the Empire upon a like Solemnity The first day of the Feast the Throne was placed in the Royal Hall and was covered all over with the Jewels of the Crown the number of them was the greater that there was but one of the Kings Thrones brought and that as it is usual the Jewels of the other little Thrones had been taken off for the adorning of this A Fair of the Ladies of the Serraglio The Festival began in the Serraglio by a Fair that was kept there The Ladies and Daughters of the great Lords were permitted to come to it and the Court-Ladies of less Quality who thought themselves witty enough to make their Court The great Ladies Shop-keepers by putting off the curious Things that they had brought thither were the Shop-keepers But these had not all the Trade to themselves for the Wives of the Omras and Rajas who were allowed to come in opened Shop also and brought with them the richest Goods they could find and which they thought suited best with the King and the Princesses of his Serraglio Many had occasion by selling and disputing pleasantly and wittily about the Price of the things which the King and his Wives came to cheapen to make their Husbands Court and to slip in Presents to those that could serve them in bettering their Fortune or keeping them as they were Begum The King and his Begum pay'd often double value for a thing when the Shop-keeper pleas'd them but that was when they rallied wittily and gentilely as People of Quality commonly do in buying and selling And so it happened that the wittiest and fairest were always most favoured All these stranger Ladies were entertained in the Serraglio with Feasting and Dancings of Quenchenies Quenchenies who are Women and Maids of a Caste of that name having no other Profession but that of Dancing And this Fair lasted five days It is true The Commodities sold there were not so fine nor rich as they would have been had the Festival been kept in Dehly or Agra but the best and most pretious Things that were to be found in Azmer and in the nearest Towns were exposed to Sale there wherewith the King was very well satisfied During these rejoycings of the Serraglio The great Men who kept Guard entertained themselves at their Posts or elsewhere And there were a great many Tables served at the Kings charges which gave them occasion to Celebrate the Neurous or New Years Feast merrily The King appeared daily in the Amcas at his usual hour but not in extraordinary Magnificence before the seventh day and then the Lords who had every day changed Cloaths appeared in their richest Apparel They all went to salute the King The Kings Presents at Neurous and His Majesty made them Presents which were only some Galantries of small value that did not cost him Four hundred thousand French Livres The eighth and ninth days The King also sat on his Throne when he was not Feasting with his Princess and Omras in one of the Out-Halls where he made himself several times familiar with them but that familiarity excused them not from making him Presents The Presents of the Great Lords to the King. There was neither Omra nor Mansepdar but made him very rich Presents and that of the Governour or Tributary of Azmer was the most considerable of all These Presents were reckoned in all to amount to fourteen or fifteen Millions The Festival concluded at Court by a review of the Kings Elephants and Horses pompously equipped and in the Town by a great many Fire-works that came after their Feasting Gehanguir indeed gave not the Princes and great Lords the equivalent of
Fire in their House for fear some Flie may burn it self therein when they have got Charity enough they return to the Convent and there mingle all the Rice Lentils Milk Cheese and other Provisions they have got together Then an Officer distributes all equally among the Vartias who eat their Portions severally cold or hot as it is given them and drink nothing but water They make their meal about noon which serves them for the whole day The Vartias eat but once a day let hunger or thirst press them never so much they must wait till the same hour next day before they either eat or drink The rest of the day they employ in Prayers and reading of Books The Vartias Dormitory and when the Sun sets they go to sleep and never light a Candle They all lie in the same Chamber and have no other Bed but the Ground They cannot of themselves leave the orders after they have once taken the Vows yet if they commit any fault contrary to their Vows and especially against that of Chastity they are expelled not only the order but also their tribe The General Provincials The Officers of the Vartias and all the Officers change their Convent every four Months their Office is for Life and when any of them dies he Names to the Religous him whom he thinks fittest to succeed and they follow his choice These Vartias have above ten thousand Monasteries in the Indies and some of them are more Austere than others Nay their are some who think it enough to worship God in Spirit and these have no Idols and will have no Pagod near them Gentile Nuns There are also Religious Nuns in some places who live very exemplarily CHAP. XXXVII Of the Provinces of Ayoud or Haoud Varad or Varal The Province of Ayoud THe two Provinces of Ayoud and Varal are so little frequented by the Moguls that they from whom I asked an account of them could give me none though they were pretty well acquainted with the rest of Mogulistan and therefore I cannot say much of them in particular The Province of Ayoud as far as I could learn contains the most Northern Countries that belong to the Mogul The Province of Varal as Caucares Bankich Nagarcut Siba and others And that of Varal consists of those which are most North-East ward to wit Gor Pitan Canduana and some others These two Provinces being every where almost watered with the Rivers which run into the Ganges are very fertile notwithstanding the Mountains that are in them The yearly Revenue of Ayoud and Varal which makes them exceeding Rich. The Province of Ayoud yields the Great Mogul above ten Millions and that of Varal more than seven and twenty a year The great gains that these two Provinces and that which is next them make from the Strangers of the North and East are the cause of such considerable Revenues as the Mogul draws out of them and they are so much the greater that these Countries being remote from the Sea no Europeans share with them therein Rajas not Subjected The Pagod of Nagarcut The Idol Matta The Pagod of Calamac There are many Rajas in both who for the most part own not the Authority of the Great Mogul There are two Pagods of great reputation in Ayoud the one at Nagarcut and the other at Calamac but that of Nagarcut is far more famous than the other because of the Idol Matta to which it is Dedicated and they say that there are some Gentiles that come not out of that Pagod without Sacrificing part of their Body The Devotion which the Gentiles make shew of at the Pagod of Calamac proceeds from this that they look upon it as a great Miracle that the Water of the Town which is very cold springs out of a Rock that continually belches out Flames That Rock of Calamac is of the Mountain of Balaguate and the Bramens who Govern the Pagod make great profit of it CHAP. XXXVIII Of the Province of Becar and of the Castes or Tribes of the Indies THe Province of Becar which comprehends the Countries of Douab The Province of Becar Douah Jesuat Udesse Jesuat and Udesse is also watered by the Rivers that discharge themselves into the Ganges It lies not only to the East of Dehly but is also the most Eastern Province of Mogolistan by the Countrey of Udesse which shuts it in with its Mountains And that great Province being rich by reason of the fertility thereof yields to the Great Mogul yearly above fourteen Millions The Towns of Becar Sambal Menapour Rageapour Jehanac Becaner Towns. It contains several good Towns but the best are Sambal Menapour Rageapour Jehanac and above all Becaner which at present is the Capital standing to the West of the Ganges In this Province of Becar and in the two former there are of all the Castes and Tribes of the Indians which are reckoned in all to be fourscore and four in number Though all of them profess the same Religion Castes or Tribes of Gentiles 84. yet the Ceremonies of every one of these Castes nay and of the private Persons of each Caste are so different that they make an infinite number of Sects The People of every one of these Tribes follow a Trade and none of their Off-spring can quit it without being reckoned infamous in his Tribe For Example Bramens The Bramens who make the first Tribe profess Doctrine and so do their Children without ever forsaking that Profession The second is the Tribe of the Catry or Raspoutes Catry or Raspoutes who make profession of Arms Their Children profess the same or ought to do it because they all pretend to be descended of Princes of the Gentiles Not but some of them are Merchants nay and Weavers in the Provinces of Multan Lahors and Sinde but they are despised in the Tribe and pass for base Fellows void of honour The third is the Tribe of the Soudr or Courmy Soudr or Courmy and these are the Labourers of the Ground some of them carry Arms and since that is an honourable Trade and of a superiour Caste it do's not reflect upon them but because they love not to serve on Horse-back they serve commonly for the Garisons of Places and this Caste or Tribe is the greatest of all The fourth is the Tribe of the Ouens or Banians Banians and they are all Merchants Bankers or Brokers and the expertest People in the World for making Money of any thing Anciently there were no more Tribes but these four but in succession of time all those who applied themselves to the same Profession composed a Tribe or Caste and that 's the reason they are so numerous Colis The Colis or Cotton-dressers have made a distinct Caste Tcherons The Tcherons or Travellers Guards have theirs The Palanquin-bearers have also made one and they are called Covillis Bow-makers and Fletchers have also made another
of Sivagy who made inrodes to the very Town We Encamped beyond Indelvai and next day being the six and twentieth of March having after four hours March passed over the pleasantest Hills in the World by reason of the different kinds of Trees that cover them we arrived at Calvar which is the last Village of the Moguls Countrey It is distant from Aurangeabad about fourscore and three Leagues which we Travelled in a fortnights time The rest of the Road to Golconda I shall describe when I treat of that Kingdom The way from Aurangeabad that I have been now speaking of is diversified by Hills and Plains All the Plains are good Ground some sow'd with Rice and the rest planted with Cotton-trees Tamarins Wars Cadjours Manguiers Quesous and others and all Watered with several Rivers which turn and wind every way and with Tanquies also out of which they draw the Water by Oxen And I saw one of these Reservatories at Dentapour which is a Musquet-shot over and seven or eight hundred Geometrical paces long We were incommoded during our whole Journey almost with Lightenings Whirle-winds Rains and Hail-stones some as big as a Pullets Egg Very large Hail-stones The Moguls Horse against Viziapour and when we were troubled with none of these we heard dull Thunderings that lasted whole Days and Nights We met every where Troops of Horse designed against Viziapour the King whereof refused to send the Great Mogul the Tribute which he used to pay to him To conclude with this Province it is to be observed that all the Rocks and Mountains I have mentioned are only dependances of that Mountain which is called Balagate The Mountain of Balagate which according to the Indian Geographers divides India into the two parts of North and South as that of Guate according to the same Geographers environs it almost on all hands CHAP. XLVII Of the Province of Telenga The Province of Telenga TElenga was heretofore the principal Province of Decan and reached as far as the Portuguese Lands towards Goa Viziapour being the Capital City thereof But since the Mogul became Master of the Northern places of this Countrey Calion and of the Towns of Beder and Calion it hath been divided betwixt him and the King of Decan who is only called King of Viziapour and it is reckoned amongst the Provinces of Indostan which obey the Great Mogul The borders of Telenga It is bordered on the East by the Kingdom of Golconda on Maslipatan side on the West by the Province of Baglana and Viziapour on the North by Balagate and on the South by Bisnagar The Capital City of this Province is at present Beder which belonged to Balagate when it had Kings and it hath sometime belonged to Decan Beder is a great Town Beder it is encompassed with Brick-Walls which have Battlements and at certain distances Towers they are mounted with great Cannon some whereof have the mouth three Foot wide Great Guns The Garison of Beder There is commonly in this place a Garison of Three thousand Men half Horse and half Foot with Seven hundred Gunners the Garison is kept in good order because of the importance of the place against Decam and that they are always afraid of a surprize The Governour lodges in a Castle without the Town it is a rich Government and he who commanded in it when I was there was Brother-in-law to King Chagean Auran Zebs Father but having since desired the Government of Brampour which is worth more he had it because in the last War that Governour had made an Army of the King of Viziapours raise the Siege from before Beder Some time after I met the new Governour upon the Road to Beder The Train of the Governour of Beder who was a Persian of a good aspect and pretty well stricken in years he was carried in a Palanquin amidst Five hundred Horse-men well mounted and cloathed before whom marched several Men on foot carrying blew Banners charged with flames of Gold and after them came seven Elephants The Governours Palanquin was followed with several others full of Women and covered with red Searge and there were two little Children in one that was open The Bambous of all these Palanquins were covered with Plates of Silver chamfered after them came many Chariots full of Women two of which were drawn by white Oxen almost six Foot high and last of all came the Waggons with the Baggage The Great Moguls Revenue in Telenga and several Camels guarded by Troopers This Province of Telenga is worth above Ten millions a Year to the Great Mogul No where are the Gentiles more Superstitious than here they have a a great many Pagods with Figures of Monsters that can excite nothing but Horror instead of Devotion unless in those who are deluded with the Religion These Idolaters use frequent Washings Men The washings of the Gentiles Women and Children go to the River as soon as they are out of Bed and the rich have Water brought them to wash in When Women lose their Husbands they are conducted thither by their Friends who comfort them and they who are brought to Bed use the same custom almost as soon as they are delivered of their Children and indeed there is no Countrey where Women are so easily brought to Bed when they come out of the Water a Bramen dawbs their Forehead with a Composition made of Saffron and the Powder of white Sawnders dissolved in Water then they return home where they eat a slight Breakfast and seeing they must never eat unless they be washed some return to the Tanquie or River about noon and others perform their Ablutions at home before they go to Dinner As they have a special care not to eat any thing but what is dressed by a Gentile of their Caste so they seldom eat any where but at home The feeding of the Gentiles and commonly they dress their Victuals themselves buying their Flower Rice and such other Provisions in the Shops of the Banians for they 'll not buy any where else These Banians as well as the Bramens and Courmis feed on Butter Pulse The Diet of some Castes Herbs Sugar and Fruit they eat neither Fish nor Flesh and drink nothing but Water wherein they put Coffee and Tea they use no Dishes for fear some body of another Religion or Tribe may have made use of the Dish out of which they might eat and to supply that they put their Victuals into large Leaves of Trees which they throw away when they are empty nay there are some of them who eat alone and will not suffer neither their Wives nor Children at Table with them Nevertheless I was informed The Bramens sometimes eat Hogs Flesh that in that Countrey one certain day of the year the Bramens eat Hogs Flesh but they do it privately for fear of Scandal because the Rules of their Sect enjoyn them so to do and I believe it
Scent and the Fruit of it is round They take off the Bark in the Summer-time and when they cut it the Smell is so strong that the Soldiers who are to guard the same fall almost sick upon 't Towards Cochin there is wild Cinnamon but because it is weak Wild Cinnamon it is not much esteemed The best Nutmegs are got in the Isle of Banda Nutmegs The Isle of Banda which is to the South of the Molucca's The Tree that produces them is no higher than our common Apricock-Trees that grow by themselves when its outward Husk falls off its Mace appears of a lovely Vermilion colour but being in the least exposed to the Air it changes its Colour into a light Brown as we have it The Tree is produced after this manner There is a kind of Birds in the Island that having picked of the green Husk swallow the Nuts which having been sometime in their Stomach they void by the ordinary way and they fail not to take rooting in the place where they fall and in time to grow up to a Tree This Bird is shaped like a Cuckoe and the Dutch prohibite their Subjects under pain of death to kill any of them Cloves grow upon a Shrub that has long narrow leaves Cloves the Flowers of it which at first are white change Colour four or five times and from the out-most point of its Branches the Cloves grow which have then a far more fragrant Smell than when they are brought into Europe The great Isle of Java furnishes the good Pepper The Tree is sow'd The Pepper of Java and when it comes to bear it produces Cods that contain forty or fifty Corns such as are brought into our Countrey Of Japan A friend of mine at Surrat gave me a short relation of the Affairs of the Dutch in Japan which I look upon to be curious enough to deserve a place here It says that after the horrible Persecution of the Christians in that Kingdom the Portuguese by the artifice of the Dutch having been deprived of their Trade the Emperour of that Countrey suffered the last comers to take the place of the Portuguese but fearing lest that if he gave them too much liberty they might abuse it he ordered them to live in a little Peninsule called Disima which is at the bottom of a Channel near the Town of Mansaque which in some Relations of the Jesuits is termed Mangasaquy This Peninsule is about two thousand Paces in circuit they go to the Town by a point of Land and on another side there is a Bridge The Dutch have built Houses there of Stones which they brought from Batavia but they are forbidden to bind them with any Mortar or Ciment and they have obtained no more liberty but to Pile them up one upon another to hinder People only from seeing what they are doing at home yet they cut and polish them so ingeniously that their dry Walls are as good as if they were built with Mortar They have made two Streets and three publick Gates but they do nothing but what the Governour of the Town knows either by Spies or by Guards he sets at the Gates whom he obliges every evening to give him an account of what passes in the day-time and these Guards are chang'd every day None of the Dutch dare go out of the Peninsule without the Governours leave under pain of being cut they dare not so much as have a Candle lighted in the night-time nor make the least noise and if the Guard hear any they blow a Horn and immediately the Governour sends a Commissary to know what news there is this Commissary goes into the Streets makes enquiry and leaves not the Peninsule till he knew who made the noise and why And he has Orders to check not only those that made it but also those who are appointed to keep all things quiet and in order In this constraint the Dutch live during eight months of the year When the Mouson or Season for sailing upon these Seas is come the Governour places Sentinels upon hills to discover the Dutch Fleet. So soon as ever it appears they give him advice and he speedily sends out towards the Fleet as many Boats and Waiters as there are Ships seen no sooner are they brought into Port but the Governour sends notice of it to the Emperour by Expresses for they have regulated Posts and the Dutch cannot dispose of any thing before the return of those Expresses In the mean time they make Inventories of what is on Board the Ships each Waiter takes one in the Ship that is assigned to him and the Dutch Captain is obliged to write down the Name Age Stature and Office of all the Men in his Ship and to give that List of them to the Waiter that he may send to have it Translated into the Language of the Countrey When one of the Couriers is comeback from Court the Dutch go a-Shoar one after another according to the order and rank of the Ships wherein they serve The first Ships crew go a-Shoar first and then the rest in order all are Mustered before the Commissaries and the Dutch Clerk who has the List and the Secretary or Japanese Clerk that has the Translation of it name them aloud according as they pass and tell their Quality Age Stature and Office. After they have been thus examined a-Shoar they are put on Board again the Yards are lower'd and the Sails Arms Guns and Powder of the Ship are carried a-Shoar the Hatches are shut and sealed up with a Seal put upon a piece of Paper tied with Straw whereon they cast a certain knot which the Japanese alone can untie and the Carpenter of the Ship covers these Seals with Boxes of Wood for fear they should be broken when they wash the Ship or are about any other business but there is such a constraint upon all the Crew that if any one stand in need of a bit of Meat or any other thing that is in the hold he cannot have it without a particular permission from the Governour himself who sends a Man express to open the Hatches and go below decks with the Dutch after which he again shuts and seals them up They are neither permitted to light a Candle nor make a noise on Ship-board no more than on Shoar in the Peninsule nor is one Vessel allowed to have any communication with another No Man is suffered to go a-Shoar no not the Officers themselves so that it is a great joy to them to be deputed to carry the Emperour who resides in the Town of Yonde which some Relations call Yando the Present which the States make him yearly but they are conducted under a good Guard and when they have made their Present and the Emperour hath given them another for the States they are conducted back to their Ship and they employ three months and a half in making that Journey I have been informed by a Dutch
set foot a-Shoar I was dressed in this Town and stayed there for sometime but seeing there was no able Chirurgion there I removed my self to Ispahan where I found much relief My wound being cured and having rested my self for four or five months I parted from this Capital City of Persia the twenty fifth of October I shall not observe any thing here of what I saw in Persia on my return from Bender-Abassi to Ispahan because I have amply written of that in my second Volume All I intend to say is that having agreed with a Muletor who was going to Tauris we went out of Ispahan by the Gate of Tockchi Went out of Ispahan that I found it to be a fine Countrey abounding in Cotton and full of Villages and neat Pigeon-Houses and that about four Leagues from Ispahan the Muletors obliged us to tarry six days in a Kervanseray at a Village called Sin Sin. where the Armenians made them stay for the rest of the Caravan which very much incommoded me because of the inconvenience of the place and there I had a Feavor and Ague We put out from thence the last day of October there were no less than two hundred Mules in the Caravan and some Camels also After four days March we came to Cachan having past large barren Plains and therefore we had no pleasure in our Journey before we came to a Bourg called Gourabad where we rested our selves in Gardens full of Fruits and furnished with excellent water The Town of Cachan is begirt with a Ditch and two Walls Cachan which began to be ruinous it is two hours march in circuit the Bazars of the Town are Arched and have the light by round Windows which are in the Arches at a Fathoms distance one from another and these Bazars being very large I went too and again in them a long while on Horse-back This is a Town of much Trade and the Shops areas well furnished as at Ispahan They work here in Gold and Silk and the lovely Flowered Girdles that are carried to Ispahan are made in this Town as also most excellent Earthen Ware which is sold through the rest of Persia and in the Indies The Kervanseras are pretty well built but the private Houses are so ugly that except the Kings House there is not any worth the minding There is a Meidan there as in other Towns and I was told there were Scorpions there as long as ones finger whose Sting was mortal but the people of the Countrey affirm that they do no hurt to strangers which I take to be a Fable and I saw none of them we stayed three days there and leaving it on the third we came to the Town of Com. Com. This Town hath a Ditch and Earthen Walls like to those of a Village and are ruined in several places it will require two hours to make the circuit of it The Streets are wide and streight and the Bazars narrow the Meidan is a pretty handsom square the Palace of the King and Houses of the great Men are in the Suburbs King Cha-Abas the Second died there and there lyes buried The Sepulchres of Masoume Sister to Imam-Riza The Sepulchres of Masoâ—eme Sefi 1. Abas 11. and of the Kings Sefi the first and Abas the second are in one Mosque there into which they enter by three doors the Porch of it is Arched the Pavement covered with Carpets and the Walls varnished with several Colours from the Porch one enters into a dome which receives no light but by two doors of which the Shutters that are seven or eight Foot high and about a Fathom broad are of Silver and the Threshold of the same Metal the Dome is Arched and adorned with Niches Folliages and painted Flowers The Tomb of Masoume which is of grayish Marble is in the middle and is full seven foot high it is square and each side about three Fathom long it is enclosed within a Silver-Grate and the Grate is not above three fingers breadth from the Tomb there are Alcorans at the sides of it and two Tables fastened to the Grate with Prayers of the Alcoran upon them for those who go thither in Devotion there are Lamps also but they are not lighted The Body of the Mosque goes quite round the Chappel of Masoume the Pavement of it is covered with Carpet at the end of the Temple on the richt side is the Chappel of Cha-Sefi which is Arched The Chappel of Cha-Sefi and the entry into it is by two Silver-Gates the Thresholds being of the same Metal his Tomb is covered with Cloath of Gold and I found there a Moula repeating the Alcoran behind the Tomb there is a Silver-Grate a Fathom nigh and three Fathom broad going out of that Chappel one sees the Chappel of Cha-Abas the Second which is directly opposite to it it hath likewise the Doors and Thresholds of Silver with a pretty high dome that is painted the Tomb is of a grayish Marble it is seven Foot high and three Fathom broad but it is not finished there are other Silver-Gates besides in this Mosque The Authors sickness Monsieur de Thevenot parted from Com the eighth day of November about two of the Clock in the Morning but he was already indisposed and therefore he hath written nothing of the Ancient Town of Sava which he found on his way Sava and where he himself observes that his Spirit of Curiosity forsook him Though he was sick he continued to describe his Journey as far as the Bourg of Farsank where he lodged the sixteenth of November but his Pain made him end his Memoires there Nevertheless he travelled on thirty Leagues farther Miana The Authors death for he came to the little Town Miana where God called him to everlasting rest An Elogie of the Author The reputation which his civility probity and learning have gained him both in Europe and Asia is a sufficient Elogie of his merit not to stand in need of any other but in finishing his Work I cannot forbear to give him this true Character That an honester Man never lived in the World. FINIS AN Alphabetical Table OF THE PRINCIPAL PLACES Described and Treated of in this WORK A. AAsour Part II. Page 50 Abydos Part I. Page 17 Acre Part I. Page 211 Aegypt Part I. Page 245 Aethiopia Part I. Page 238 Aetna Part I. Page 4 Agra Part III. Page 33 Ajora Part I. Page 109 Aleppo Part II. Page 30 Alexandria Part I. Page 121 Part II. Page 6 Amedabad Part III. Page 8 Andra Isle Part I. Page 15 Audarvia Part II. Page 173 Aurangeabad Part III. Page 73 Ayoud Part III. Page 62 Azmer Part III. Page 48 B. BAbylon alias Bagdat Part I. Page 278 Bagdad Part II. Page 61 Baglana Part III. Page 82 Bagnagar Part III. Page 94 97 Balagate Part III. Page 72 Bampour Part III. Page 71 Bassora Part II. Page 156 Becar Part III. Page 63 Bender-Abassi Part II.
badness of the Ways and the frequent over-flowings of the Rivers and Brooks I hired a Horse for my self and two Oxen for my Servant and Baggage and I parted with some Merchants We came to a Bourg called Elmas-Kepentch eight Leagues from Bagnagar Diamond-mines Tenara a stately Palace They who have a mind to go to the Diamond-mines of Gany take their way by Tenara where the King has a stately Palace consisting of four large Piles of Stone-Building two Stories high and adorned with Portico's Halls and Galleries and before the Palace there is a large regular Square besides these Royal Appartments there are Habitations for Travellers and unalienable Rents for entertaining the poor and all Passengers that please to stop there Having no business at these Diamond-mines which are six or seven days Journey from Golconda we went the other way In all our Journey we found but three small Towns which are Panguel Sarchel and Penguetchepoul but we met with several Rivers the most considerable of which are Kachkna and Money we went through sixteen or seventeen Villages about which the Fields are always green and pleasant to the eye though the way be very bad There I saw Trees of all kinds that are in the Indies and even Cassia-Trees though they be scarce in other Countries of the Indies at length in ten days time we arrived at Masulipatan the whole Journey makes about fifty three French Leagues and in fair weather they perform it in a weeks time The Road from Bagnagar to Masulipatan Elmas-Quipentchâ— eight Leagues from Bagnagar Tchellapeli 6 Leag from Elmas-Panguel a Town Amanguel 6 Leag and a half from Tchellapeli Surchel-Quipentche a Town half a Leag from Amen Mousi a River Gougelou 3 Leag from Sarchel Anendeguir 4 Leag from Gougelou Penguetchpoul a Town 5 Leag from Auendeguir Pantela 5 Leag and a half from Penguetch Matcher 4 Leag from Pantela Quachgna 2 River Ovir 4 Leag from Matcher Milmol 4 Leag from Ovir Goroupet 2 Leag from Milmol Masulipatan half a Leag from Goroupet Masulipatan lies on the coast of Coromandel in sixteen degrees and a half North-Latitude This Town is Situated upon the Gulf of Bengala East South-East from Bagnagar though the Town be but small yet it is well Peopled the Streets are narrow and it is intollerably hot there from March till July The Houses are all separated one from another and the Water is brackish because of the Tides that come up to it there is great Trading there in Chites because besides those that are made there a great many are brought from St. Thomas which are much finer and of better Colours than those of the other parts of the Indies The Coast is excellent and therefore Ships come thither from all Nations and go from thence into all Countries I saw there Cochinchinese Men of Siam Pegu and of many other Kingdoms of the East The Countrey of Masulipatan as all the rest of the Coast is so full of Idolaters and the Pagods so full of the lascivious Figures of Monsters Idolaters Figures of Monsters that one cannot enter them without horrour it is exceeding fruitful and Provisions are very cheap there The people of our Caravan had a Sheep for Twelve pence a Partridge for a Half penny and a Fowl for less than Two pence it is the same almost all over the coast of Coromandel The extent of the Coast of Coromandel wherein there is no more commonly comprehended but what reaches from the Cape of Negapatan to the Cape of Masulipatan But some Authors carry it further and will have it to reach from Cape Comory to the Western mouth of the Ganges though others make it to end at the Cape The Cape Das Palmas which the Portuguese call Das Palmas There are several Towns on this Coast some of which are good and amongst others Negapatan which lyes in the Latitude of twelve degrees Negapatan Trangabar Meliapour or St. Thomas Trangabar which is almost in the same Latitude Meliapour or St. Thomas which lyes in the heighth of thirteen degrees and a half and which the Moors with the assistance of the Dutch took back from the Portuguese in the year One thousand six hundred sixty two The Kingdom of Golconda reaches not above two Leagues beyond St. Thomas They say that St. Thomas suffered Martyrdom in that Town which bears his name at St. Thomas they make Lime of such Shells as are brought from St. Michael in Normandy and for that end they burn them with Hogsdung The Small-pox is very frequent in that Countrey but there is another more violent Distemper that commonly commits greater ravage there It is called Akeron and only seizes Children Akeron a distemper it is an inflammation of the Tongue and Mouth proceeding from too great heat their Parents are careful to cool them from time to time with Herbs that are good against that Disease for otherwise it seizes the Guts reaches to the Fundament and kills the Child There are many Naiques to the South of St. Thomas Naiques that are Sovereigns who are Sovereigns The Naique of Madura is one he of Tangiour is at present a Vassal to the King of Viziapour Naique properly signifies a Captain heretofore they were Governours of Places and Officers of the King but having Revelled they made themselves Sovereigns Poliacate is to the North of St. Thomas Poliacate and the Factory which the Dutch have established there is one of the best they have in the Indies by reason of the Cotton-cloaths of which they have great Ware-houses full there At Poliacate they refine the Salt-Petre which they bring from Bengala Salt-Petre and make the Gun-powder with which they furnish their other Factories they refine the Salt-Petre that they send to Europe in Batavia The Governour of Gueldria which is the Fort of Poliacate Gueldria has of the Dutch fifty Crowns a month Pay with fifty Crowns more for his Table Provisions of Wine and Oyl and his Cloaths which he can take when he pleases out of the Companies Ware-houses The current Money at Poliacate are Roupies and Pagods which are there worth four Roupies that is almost six French Livres they have Fanons also which are small pieces Fanons Money half Gold and half Silver they have the same Stamp as the Pagods have six and a half of them with half a Quarter-piece make a Roupie and six and twenty and a half a Pagod They have also Gazers which are small Copper-pieces Gazer Money as big as a Fanon forty of which go to a Fanon and the Dutch at present Coin all these pieces of Money Palicole Dacheron Their Company has a Factory also at Palicole two days Journey Northward from Masulipatan and another at Dacheron on the same Coast Bimilipatan is four days Journey Northwards of Masulipatan The Traffick of those parts consists in Rice fine Cloaths Iron Wax and Lacre which is as good as at Pegu and from
abroad they import Copper Tin Lead and Pepper Bimilipatan Cicacola From Bimilipatan to Cicacola it is fifteen hours travelling by Land and that is the last Town of the Kingdom of Golconda on the side of Bengala The Governours of that Countrey are great Tyrants and if any one threaten to inform the King of their exactions they 'll laugh at it and say that he is King of Golconda and they of their Governments from Cicacola to Bengala it is a months Journey by Land. In many places of the Kingdom of Golconda the people are much infested by Serpents but one may cure himself of their Sting provided he neglect not the wound and hold a burning Coal very near the part that is stung the Venom is perceived to work out by degrees and the heat of the Fire is not at all troublesome They make use also of the Stone of Cobra which hath been spoken of before When I thought my self sufficiently informed of the places on the Coast of Coromandel I returned from Masulipatan to Bagnagar and stayed there three weeks longer because I would not go from thence but in company of Monsieur Bazon who had some business still remaining to make an end of so that I had as much time as I needed to see the Celebration of the Festival of Hussein The Festival of Hussein in Golconde the Son of Aly which fell out at that time The Moors of Golconda celebrated it with more Fopperies than they do in Persia there is nothing but Masquarades for the space of ten days they erect Chappels in all the Streets with Tents which they fill with Lamps and adorn with Foot-Carpets the Streets are full of People and all of them almost have their Faces covered with Sifted ashes they who are naked cover their whole Body with them and they who are cloathed their Apparel but the Cloaths they wear on these days are generally extravagant and their Head-tire much more they all carry Arms most part have their Swords naked and the poor have Wooden ones several drag about the Streets long Chains as big as ones Arm which are tied to their Girdle and it being painful to dragg them they thereby move the pity of Zelots who touch them and having kissed their Fingers lift them up to their Eyes as if these Chains were holy Relicks They make Processions wherein many carry Banners and others have Poles on which there is a Silver-Plate that represents Husseins hand some with little Houses of a light wood upon their heads skip and turn at certain Cadences of a Song others dance in a round holding the point of their naked Swords upwards which they clash one against another crying with all their force Hussein The publick Wenches themselves come in for a share in this Festival by their extravagant Dances Habits and Head-tire The Heathen Idolaters celebrate this Feast also for their diversion and they do it with such Fopperies as far surpass the Moors they drink eat laugh and dance on all hands and they have Songs which savour little of a doleful pomp that the Moors pretend to represent They observe only not to shave themselves during the ten days but though it be prohibited to sell any thing except Bread and Fruit yet there is plenty of all things in private Houses This Festival is hardly ever celebrated without Blood-shed for there being several Sunnis who laugh at the others and the Chyais not being able to endure it they often quarrel and fight which is a very proper representation of the Feast and at that time there is no enquiry made into Manslaughter because the Moors believe that during these ten days the Gates of Paradise are open to receive those who die for the Musselman Faith. At Bagnagar I saw one of these quarrels raised by a Tartar who spake some words against Hussein Some Chyais being scandalized thereat fell upon him to be revenged but he killed three of them with his Sword and many Musket-Shot were fired A Gentleman who would have parted them received a wound in the Belly that was like to have cost him his life and seven were killed out-right Nay some of the Servants of the Grand Vizier were engaged in it and this chief Minister passing by that place in his Palanquin made haste down that he might get on Horse-back and ride away Next day after the Feast they make other processions sing doleful Ditties and carry about Coffins covered with divers Stuffs with a Turban on each Coffin to represent the interment of Hussein and his Men who were killed at the Battel of Kerbela by the Forces of Calif Yezid CHAP. X. Of the Authors departure from Bagnagar for Surrat and of Mordechin NO sooner was this Feast ended but Monsieur Bazou advertised me to prepare for my return to Surrat which I did so that November the thirteenth we parted from Bagnagar Campings or Lodgings from Bagnagar to Beder From Bagnagar to Danec five Cosses Nervna a Riv. To Tchelcour 7 Cosses Penu a River To Squequerdeh 6 Cosses To Yacout-Kepentch 3 Cosses To Yenquetala 6 Cosses Moumin a Town Pendgioul a Town To Couir 8 Cosses Senjavour'd To Dediqui 6 Cos To Beder 4 Cos The Cosses reduced make 22 Leag and a half Lodgings from Beder to Patry To Ecour 12 Coss Manjera a River To Morg 8 Coss to Oudeguir 6 Coss to Helly 6 Coss to Rajoura 6 Coss to Saourgaon 6 Coss Careck a River Ganga a River To Caly 8 Coss to Raampouri 6 Coss to Patry 8 Coss the whole 33 Leagues The way from Patry to Brampour To Gahelgaon 9 Coss Doudna a River Patou a Town 6 Coss Ner a Town 6 Coss Seouny 8 Coss Chendequer a Town 2 Coss Ourna a River Zafravad a Town 10 Coss Piply 10 Coss Deoulgan 6 Coss Rouquera a Town 6 Coss Melcapour a Town 2 Coss Nervar a River Pourna River Japour 12 Coss Tapty Riv. Brampour a Town 2 Coss The whole 39 Leag and a half with a Pass-port he had obtained from the King to pay no Duties throughout the whole Kingdom but we went another way than we came When we came to Danec they demanded Duties for three Villages but with so much eagerness that it seemed we were in the fault that we had not our Money ready in our hands to give it them however when the Man whom Sidy Muzafer had given Monsieur Bazon to make good the Pass-port had shew'n it to the Collectors they were satisfied and only asked some small gratuity to buy Betle and it was just so with us in all places where Toll is payed We continued our Journey by most ugly ways and after seven days March arrived at the Town of Beder mentioned before which is but two and twenty Leagues distant from Bagnagar In this Road we found the Rivers of Nerva Penna and Mousi two little Towns called Moumin and Pendgioul and a great many Villages The Kingdom of Golconda ends on this side betwixt the Bourgs Couir and