Hypprodome and the Theater whereon the people stood when the Emperours vsed to run their horses and make their Princely shewes on solemne dayes which is now altogether decayed There is a great Columne in that same place in the which all those things memorable that haue béene done in this Hyppodrome are superficially carued Upon the West corner of the Citie there is a strong Fortresse fortified with seuen great Towers and well furnished with munition called by Turkes Iadileke In this Presoun are Bashaws and Subbashaws imprisoned and also great men of Christians if any offence be committed Their place of exchange is called Bezastan wherein all sorts of commodities are to bee sold as Sattins Silkes Ueluets Cloth of Siluer and Gold and the most exquisitly wrought handkerchiffes that can be found in the world with other infinite commodities the relation of which would be tedious I haue séene men and women as vsually sold here in markets as horses and other beasts are with vs. The most part of which are Hungarians Transiluanians and Bohemians captiues and of other places besides which they ouercome Whom if no compassionable Christian will buy or or relieue then must they either turne Turke or bee addicted to perpetuall slauery In Constantinople there haue happened many fearefull fires which often haue consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest monuments there and the beauty of infinite palaces as Zonoras the Constantinopolitan Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth And now lately in the yeare 1607. October 14. there were burned aboue 3000 houses of which I saw a number of ruines as yet vnrepaired It is subiect also to diuers earthquakes which haue often subuerted the Towers Houses Churches and walles of the Citie to the ground Especially in the yeare 1509. in the reigne of Baiazeth the ninth Emperour of the Turkes in which time more then 13000 persons were all smothered and dead and laid vp in heapes vnburied And commonly euery third yeare the pestilence is excéeding great in that Citie and after such an odious manner that those who are infected before they dy haue the halfe of their one side rot and fall away so that you may easily discerne the whole intrailes of their bodies It is not licentiated that any Christian should enter in a Turkish Moskée without the conduct of a Ianisary the tryall whereof I had when I viewed S. Sophia Perah is ouer against Constantinople called of old Cornubizantium but by the Turkes Galata It is the place at which Christian ships touch and where the Embassadours of Christendome lie From thence I went to the blacke sea but commonly called Mare Euxinum where I saw Pompeis pillar of marble standing néere to the shore vpon a rocky Iland and not farre from hence is a Lanthorne higher then any stéeple whereon there is a pan full of liquor that burneth euery night to giue warning vnto ships how néere they come to shore It is not much vnlike these Lanthornes of Lighorne and Genua The water of this sea is neuer a whit blacker then other seas but it is called black in respect of the dangerous euents in darke and tempestuous nights which happen there and because of the rockes and sands which lie a great way from the maine shore vpon which many vessels are cast away The blacke sea is not farre from Galata for I both went and returned in one day The Turkes haue no bels in their Churches neither the vse of a clocke nor numbring of houres but they haue high round Stéeples for they contrafact and contradict all the formes of Christians when they goe to pray they are called together by the voyce of crying men who go vp on the bartizings of their Stéeples shouting and crying with a shrill voyce La illa Eillala Mahomet Rezul alla that is God is a great God and Mahomet is his Prophet or otherwise there is but one God In Constantinople and many other places of Turky I haue séene thrée Sabboth dayes together in one wéeke the Friday for the Turkes the Saturday for Iewes and the Sunday for the Christians but the Turkes Sabboth is worst kept of all for they will not spare to doe any labour vpon their holy day They haue méetings at their publicke prayers euery day fiue seuerall times the first is before the rising of the Sunne the second is a little before mid-day the third is at three of the clock afternoone the fourth is at Sun-setting Summer and Winter Fifthly the last houre of praier is alwaies two or thrée houres within night Many of them will watch till that time and not sléepe and others sléeping will awake at the voyce of the Crier and go to Church In signe of reuerence and in a superstitious deuotion before they goe into their Mosquées they wash themselues in a Lauatoire beginning at the priuy members next their mouthes faces féet and handes And entring they incline their heads downeward to the earth and falling on their knées doe kisse the ground thrée times Then the Talasumany which is the chiefe Priest mounteth vpon a high stone where he maketh many Orations to Mahomet and the rest to assist him continne a long time shaking their heads as though they were out of all naturall vnderstanding repeating oft this word Haylamo Haylamo and after that will sigh grieuously saying Houpek And sometimes will abruptly sing the Psalmes of Dauid in the Arabick tongue but to no sense nor verity of the Scriptures And at their deuotion they will not tolerate any women in their company lest they should withdraw their mindes and affection from their present zeale The Church-men are called Hadach Casseis or Daruises who weare on their heads gréene Shashes to make distinction betwéene them and others for they are accounted to bee of Mahomets kindred They hold all madde men in great reuerence as Prophets or Saints and if they intend any farre iourney priuate purposes or otherwise before they goe to battell they come to craue counsell of these Santones to know if they shall prosper or not in their attempts And whatsoeuer answere these Bedleem Prophets giue it is holden to be so credible as if an Oracle had spoken it The Turkish Priests are for the most part Moores whom they account to bee a base people in respect of themselues calling them Totseks All Turkes doe detest the colour of blacke and thinke those that weare it shall neuer enter into Paradice But the colour of greatest request among them is greene wherewith if any Christian shall be apparrelled hee shall bee sure of Bastinadoes and other punishments Neither may hee vse the name of their Prophet Mahomet in his mouth vnder the paine of a cruell censure to bee inflicted vpon him whom they so much adore and honour This Mahomet was borne Anno Dom. 591. in Itraripia a beggarly village in Arabia whose father was Abdallas an Ismalite and his mother Cadiges a Iew both different in religion and also of diuers
is celebrated in these verses Extollit Paduam iuris studium medicinae Verona humanae dat singula commoda vitae Exhaurit loculos Ferrarea ferrea plenos I commend the deuotion of Venice and Genua beyond all the other Cities in Italy For the Venetians haue banished the Iesuites out of their Territories and Ilands And the Genueses haue abandoned the society of Iewes and exposed them from their iurisdiction The Iewes and the Iesuites are brethren in blasphemies for the Iewes are naturally subtill hatefull auaritious and aboue all the greatest calumniators of Christs name And the ambitious Iesuites are Flatterers Bloudy-gospellers treasonable Tale-tellers and the onely railers vpon the sincere life of good Christians Wherefore I end with this verdict the Iew and the Iesuite is a Pultrone and a Parasite A Description of the Adriaticall and Ionean Ilands how they haue beene first named and now gouerned of Istria Dalmatia Slauonia Epire Peloponnesus and Athens of a Monster borne in Lesina and what dangers befell him in his voyage to Creta AFter 24 dayes attendance and expecting for passage I imbarked in a Carmoesalo being bound to Zara Noua in Dalmatia Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice but wee incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco è Leuante The maister had no compasse to direct his course neither was hee expert in Nauigation because they vse commonly either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe to hoyse vp sailes at night and against breake of day they haue full sight of land taking their directions from the topped hilles of the maine continent The tempest increasing and the windes contrary wee were constrained to seeke vp for the Port of Parenzo in Istria Istria was first called Giapidia according to Pliny Cato affirmeth that it was Istria of one Isiro but by the moderne writers l'ultima regione di Italia By Ptolomeus it is said to be of length 120 miles and 40 large That part which bordereth with the sea belongeth to the Venetians but the rest within land holdes of the Emperour and the Archduke of Austria The countrey it selfe aboundeth in Cornes Wines and all manner of fruits necessary for humane life Néere to this hauen wherein we lay expecting roome windes I saw the ruines of old Iustinopoli so called of Iustinian the Emperour who builded it vpon an Iland of a miles length three acres broad And to passe betwixt the Citie and the firme land there were seuen bridges made It was anciently strong but now altogether decayed The principall Cities in Istria at this day are these Parenzo Humago Pola Rouigno The winds fauouring vs we weighed anchors and sailed by the Iles Brioni so much estéemed for the fine stones they produce called Istriennes which serue to beautifie the Uenetian Palaces About mid-day I saw Mount di Caldaro on the foot of which the ancient Citie of Pola is situated hauing a harbour wherein small shippes may lie True it is this Port is not much frequented in respect of a contagious Lake neere to it which infecteth the aire with a filthy exhalation I saw hard by this place the ruines of the Castell Di Oriando the Arke triumphant and the reliques of a great Amphitheater This Pola was called by Pliny Iulia pietas and it standeth on the South-east part of Istria Continuing our course wee passed the perilous gulfe of Carnaro and sailed close by the I le Sangego called formerly Illirides This I le is of circuit foure score and of length thirty miles Our fresh water waxing scant and the windes falling out contrary to our expectation we sought in to Valdogosta in the I le of Osero which is a safe hauen for ships and Gallies This Osero was first named Asphorus and then Absirtites of a captaine Absertus who came from Colchos accompanied with many people to bring backe Medeas to his father Acetus Whose purpose being frustrated staied still and inhabited this land as witnesseth Apollonius Rhodius A fit opportunity obtained vpon the eight day we arriued in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia for there the Carmoesalo stayed and I was exposed to séeke passage for Ragusa By the way I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Master for offering my condition I found him more then courteous and would haue no more but the halfe of that which was his bargaine at Venice Besides this hee also entertained mee three dayes with a most bountifull and kinde acceptance My solitary trauelling he oft bewailed wishing me to desist and neuer attempt such a voyage but I giuing him absolute and constant answeres appeased his imagined sorrow The affable dealing of this stranger made me remember the kindnesse of my aforesaid Countrey-man M. Arthur whose externall shew for that time wee trauelled sociably together gaue me the déepe measure of his internall affection for as man oweth no lesse to his natiue Countrey then what his breath and bloud are worth so I for many weighty considerations and especially for that high respect indeuoured my selfe to the vtmost of my power to attempt this fastidious wandring whereby I might manifest to my natiues that zeale I bore in vndertaking such dangers as it were for that neuer-conquered kingdomes sake leauing him to bee the last witnesse of that innated duety which I did owe vnto my deerest Nation whether I returned or died in my atchieuements I also recall our discontented parting at Venice ingendred diuers languishing conceits which I stroue to mitigate by odde deuised merriments yet notwithstanding could not well expell his melancholy for often at our encontrings before into Italy and France I haue heard him sigh in a most melancholious humour which as I did coniecture was for some loue-sicke passion or some such like male-contentment that had enforced him in pilgrimage two times to crosse the snowy Alpes Zara is the Capitall Citie of Dalmatia called of old Iadara The inhabitants are gouerned by a Camarlingo in the behalfe of Venice the walles whereof are strongly rampired with earth surpassing the toppes of the stone-worke and fortified also with high Bulwarkes and planted Canons on eleuated rampires of earth which are aboue forty cubits higher then the walles and bulwars standing in the foure seuerall corners of the Citie There lie continually in it a great garrison of Soldiers to defend the Towne and Citizens who are maintained by the Duke of Venice for he is Seignior thereof They haue endured many inuasions of the Turkes especially in the yeare 1570 when for the space of fouretéene Moneths they were daily molested and besieged but the victory fell euer to the Christians If the Turkes could winne this place they might easily command the Adriaticall Seas in regard of that faire hauen which is there to receiue Shippes and Gallies which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffique with them but when they enter the gates they must deliuer their Weapons to the Corporall of the squadron company
Neither may they stay within all night vnder the paine of imprisonment Dalmatia was called so of Mauritius the Emperour The foure principall Prouinces whereof are these Atheos Senebico Spallato and Tragurio A part of which belongeth to Venice another part to the Duke of Austria and the third part vnto the Turkes Zara is distant from Venice 200 miles From Zara I embarked in a small Frigot bound for Lesina with fiue Slauonian Mariners who sometimes sailed and sometimes rowed with their oares In our way we past by the I le of Brazza which is of no great quantity but fertile enough for the Inhabitants and kept by a Gentleman of Venice It lieth in the mouth of the gulfe Narento that diuideth Dalmatia from Slauonia Many conceiue in effect that these two kingdomes are all one but I hold the contrary opinion both by experience and by ancient Authors Hauing passed Capo di Costa which is the beginning of Slauonia I saw vpon my right hand a round rocke of a great height in forme of a Pyramide It is cognominated by Easterne Mariners Pomo anciently Salyro for the good Faulcons that are bred therein It standeth in the middest of the gulfe betweene Slauonia and Italy A little beyond that rocke I saw the thrée Iles Trimiti the chiefest whereof is called Teucria but they are vulgarly called the Iles of Diomedes who was King of Etolla They are right opposite to Mount Gargano now called S. Angelo and distant from the maine land of Pulia in Italy about nine miles The poore Slauonians beeing fatigated in their hunger-starued-Boat with extraordinary paines for wee had thrée dayes calme which is not vsually séene in these seas were inforced to repose all night in the barren I le of Saint Andrew this I le is of circuit foure miles but not inhabited The excessiue raine that fell in the euening made vs goe on shore to séeke the couerture of some rocke which found wee lay all night on hard stones and with hungry bellies for our prouision was spent The breach of day giuing comfort to our distressed bodies with fauourable windes at the Garbo è ponente we set forward and about mid-day we arriued in the port of Lesina of which the Ile taketh the name This I le of Lesina is of circuit 150 miles and is the biggest Iland in the Adriaticke sea it is excéeding fertile and yéeldeth all things plentifully that is requisitite for the sustenance of man This Citie is vnwalled and of no great quantitie but they haue a strong fortresse which defendeth the towne the Hauen and the vessels in the road The Gouernor who was a Venetian after he had enquired of my intended voyage most courteously inuited mee three times to his table in the time of my fiue dayes staying there And at the last méeting hée reported the Story of a maruellous mis-shapen creature borne in that Iland asking if I would go thither to sée it Wherewith when I perfectly vnderstood the matter I was contented the Gentleman honoured mee also with his company and a horse to ride on where when wee came the Captaine called for the father of that Monster to bring him forth before vs. Which vnnaturall childe being brought I was amazed in that sight to behold the deformitie of Nature for below the middle part there was but one body and aboue the middle there was two liuing soules each one separated from another with seuerall members Their heads were both of one bignesse but different in Phisnomy the belly of the one ioyned with the posterior part of the other and their faces looked both on one way as if the one had carried the other on his back and often before our eyes he that was behinde would lay his hands about the necke of the formost Their eyes were excéeding bigge and their hands greater then an infants of three times their age the excrements of both creatures issued forth at one place and their thighes and legges of a great growth not semblable to their age being but sixe and thirty dayes old and their féet were proportionably made like the foote of a Cammell round and slouen in the middest They receiued their food with an insatiable desire and continually mourned with a pittifull noyse that sorrowfull man told vs that when the one slept the other awaked which was a strange disagréement in nature The Mother of them bought déerely that birth with the losse of her owne life and as her husband reported vnspeakable was the torment she endured in that woefull-wrestling paine I was also informed afterwardes that this one or rather two-fold wretch liued but a short while Leauing this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange and almost incredible natiuity we returned to Lesina But by the way of our backe-comming I remember that worthy Gentleman shewed mee the ruines of an old house where the noble King Demetrius was borne and after I had yéelded my bounden and dutifull thankes vnto his generous minde I hired a Fisher-boat to go ouer to Clyssa being 12 miles distant This I le of Clyssa is of length twenty and of circuit thréescore miles it is beautified with two profitable Sea-ports and vnder the Seigniorie of Venice There are indifferent good commodities therein vpon the South-side of this Iland lyeth the Ile Pelagusa Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa wee sailed by the thrée Iles Brisca Placa Igezi and when we entred in the gulfe of Cataro we fetched vp the sight of the I le Melida called of old Meligna Before wee could attaine vnto the Hauen wherein our purpose was to stay all night we were assailed on a sudden with a deadly storme In so much that euery swallowing waue threatned our death and bred in our breasts an intermingled sorrow of feare and hope The windes becomming calme and our desired safety enioyed we set forward in the gulfe of Cataro and sailed by the I le Curzola In this Iland I saw a Walled Towne called Curzola which hath two strong fortresses to guard it It is both commodious for the traffique of Merchandise they haue and also for the fine wood that groweth there whereof the Venetian Shippes and Gallies are made An Iland no lesse delightfull then profitable and the two Gouernors thereof are changed euery eightéene moneths by the State of Venice It was of old called Curcura Melana and of some Corcira nigra but by the Modernes Curzola Continuing our course we passed by the Iles Sabionzello Torquolla and Catza Augusta appertaining to the Republicke of Ragusa They are all three well inhabited and fruitfull yeelding cornes wines and certaine rare kinds of excellent fruits It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts because of the hidden shelues that lye off in the Sea called Augustini where diuers shippes haue been cast away in foule weather vpon the second day after our loosing from Clyssa we arriued at Ragusa Ragusa is a Common-weale gouerned by Senators and a Senate
in visiting other do not vse to come empty handed neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and conuoy Candy is a large and famous Citie situated on a plaine by the sea side hauing a goodly hauen for ships and a faire Arsenall wherein are 36 Gallies It is excéeding strong and daily guarded with 2000 Souldiers and the Walles in compasse are about three leagues Candy is distant from Venice 1300 miles from Constantinople 700. from Famagosta in Cyprus 600. from Alexandria in Egypt 500. and from the Citie of Ierusalem 900 miles The Candeots through all the Iland make muster euery eighth day before the Sergeant-Maiors or Officers of the Generall and are well prouided with all sorts of Armour yea and the most valourous people that hight the name of Greekes It was told me by the Rector of Candy that they may raise in Armes of the inhabitants not reckoning the Garrisons aboue sixtie thousand men all able for warres with 54 Gallies and 24 Galleots for the sea In all my trauels through this Realme I neuer could sée a Greek come forth of his house vnarmed and after such a martiall manner that one his head he weareth a bare stéele Cap a Bow in his hand a long sword by his side a broad ponyard ouerthwart his belly and a round target hanging at his girdle They are not costly in apparrell for they were but linnen cloathes and vse no shooes but Bootes of white leather by nature they are crafty and subtill as Paul mentioneth Titus 1.12 Their haruest is our Spring for they manure the ground and sow the séed in October which is reaped in March and Aprill Being frustrate of my intention at Candy I was forced to returne to Canea where I staied 25 dayes before I could get passage for I purposed to view Constantinople I trauelled on foot in this I le more then 400 miles and vpon the 50 day after my first comming to Carabusa I embarked in a fisher-boat that belonged to Milo being a hundred miles distant which had beene violently driuen thither with stormy weather Milo was called by Aristotle Melada and by others Mimalida Melos And lastly Milo because of the fine Mill-stones that are got there which are transported to Constantinople Greece and Natolia This I le is one of the Iles Cyclades or Sporades but more commonly Archipelago or the Arch-ilands and standeth in the beginning of the Aegean sea The inhabitants are Greekes but slaues to the Turke and so are all the 53 Iles of the Cyclades saue onely Tino which holdeth of the Venetians From Milo I came to Zephano an Iland of circuit about twenty miles The inhabitants are poore yet kind people There are an infinite number of Partridges within this I le of a reddish colour and bigger then ours in Britaine they are wilde and onely kild by small shot but I haue seene in other Ilands flockes of them feeding in the fields and vsually kept by children some others I haue seene in the stréetes of villages without any kéeper euen as Hennes do with vs. I saw fountains here that naturally yéeld fine oyle which is the greatest aduantage the Ilanders haue From thence I embarked and arriued at Angusa in Parir This I le is forty miles long and six miles broad being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the vse of of man In Angusa I stayed 16 dayes storme-sted with Northerly windes and in all that time I neuer came in bed for my lodging was in a little Church without the village on hard stones where I also had a fire and dressed my meate The Greekes visited me oftentimes and intreated me aboue all things I should not enter within the bounds of their Sanctuary because I was not of their Religion These miserable Ilanders are a kinde of silly poore people which in their behauiour shewed the necessity they had to liue rather then any pleasure in their liuing From thence I arriued in the I le of Mecano where I but onely dined so set forward to Zea. Zea was so called of Zeo the son of Phebo and of some Tetrapoli because of the foure Citties that were there of old Symonides the Poet and Eristato the excellent Physition were borne in it The next I le of any note wee touched at was Tino This Iland is vnder the Signorie of Venice and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Neptune By Aristotle it was Idrusa of Demosthenes and Eschines Erusea It hath an impregnable Castle builded on the top of a high Rocke so that the Turkes by no meanes can conquer it From this I le I came to Palmosa sometime Pathmos which is a Mountanous and barren Iland It was heere that Saint Iohn wrote the Reuelation after hée was banished by Domitianus the Emperour Thence I embarked to Nicaria and sailed by the I le Scyro which of old was the Signory of Licomedes and in the habit of a woman was Achilles brought vp heere who in that time begot Pyrhus vpon Deidamia the daughter of Licomedes and where the crafty Vlysses did discouer this fatall Prince to Troy As we fetched vp the sight of Nicaria wee espied two Turkish Galleots who gaue vs the Chace and pursued vs straight vnto a bay betwixt two Mountaines where we left the loaded Boat and fled to the Rockes But in our flying the Maister was taken and other two old men whom they made captiues and slaues and also seized vpon the Boat and all their goods The number that escaped were nine persons This Ile Nicaria was anciently called Doliche and Ithiosa and is somewhat barren hauing no Sea-port at all It was heere the Poets feigned that Icarus the son of Dedalus fell when as hee took flight from Creta with his borrowed wings of whom it hath the name Expecting certaine daies heere in a vilage called Lephantos for passage to Sio at last I found a Brigandino bound thither that was come from the fruitfull I le of Stalimene of old Lemnos wherein I embarked and sailed by the I le Samos which is opposite to Caria in Asia Minor It is of circuit one hundred and sixty and of length forty miles It was of old named Driâ—sa and Melanphilo in which was Phythagoras the Phylospher and Lycaon the excellent Musitien borne As wee left the I le Veneco on our left hand and entred in the Gulfe betweene Sio and Eolida there fell downe a deadly storme at the Greco è Leuante which split our Mast carrying Sailes and all ouer-board Whereupon euery man looked as it were with the stampe of death in his pale visage The Tempest continuing our Boat not being able to keepe the Seas we were constrained to seeke into a creeke betwixt two Rockes for safety of our liues where when wee entred there was no likely-hood of reliefe for wee had a shelfie shore and giuing ground to the Ankors they came both home The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but shipwracke
tooke the Helme in hand directing his course to rush vpon the face of a low Rocke whereupon the Sea most fearefully broke As wée touched the Marriners contending who should first leape out some fell ouer-boord and those that got Land were pulled backe by the reciprocating waues Neither in all this time durst I once moue for they had formerly sworne if I pressed to escape before the rest were first forth they would throw me head-long into the Sea So being two waies in danger of death I patiently offered vp my prayers to God At our first incounter with the Rockes our fore-deckes and boates Gallery being broke and a great leake made the recoiling waues brought vs backe from the Shelfes a great way which the poore Maister perceiuing and that there were seuen men drowned and eleuen persons aliue cryed with a lowd voyce Bee of good cheere take vp Oares and row hastily it may bee before the Barke sinke wee attaine to yonder Caue Euery man working for his owne deliuerance as it pleased God we got the same with good fortune for no sooner were wee dis-barked but the Boat immediate sunke There was nothing saued but my Coffino which I kept alwaies in my Armes for the which of my things the Greekes were in admiration In this Caue which was thirty paces long within the Mountaine wee abode three daies without both meate and drink vpon the fourth day at Morne the Tempest ceasing there came Fisher-boates to relieue vs who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of food but I in that hunger-staruing feare fed vpon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe True it is a miserable thing it is for a man to grow an example to others in matters of affliction yet it is necessary that some men should be so For it pleased God hauing showne a sensible disposition of fauor vpon mee in humbling mee to the very pit of extremities taught me also by such an expected deliuerance both to put my confidence in his eternall goodnesse and to know the frailty of my owne selfe and my ambition which draue me often to such disasters The dead men being found on shore wee buried them and I learned at that instant time there were seuentéene boats cast away on the Coast of this Iland and neuer a man saued in this place the Greekes set vp a stone Crosse in the memoriall of such a wofull mischance and mourned heauily fasting and praying I reioycing and thanking God for my safety leauing them sorrowing for their friends and good tooke iourney through the Iland to Sio for so is the Citie called In my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little Hill named Gasbos or Helias where as I was informed by two Greekes in my company the Sepulchre of Homer was yet extant For this is one of the seuen Iles that contended for his birth And I willing to see it entreated them to accompany me thither where we came wee descended by sixteene degrées into a darke Cell and passing that wee entred in another foure-squared roome in which I saw an ancient Toomb whereon were ingrauen Greeke letters which wee could not vnderstand for their antiquity but whether it was his Toombe or not I do not know but this they related This Ile was first called Etalie and Pythiosa next Cios Actes 20.15 And by Methrodorus Chio of Chione but at this day Sio Not long ago it was vnder the Genueses but now gouerned by Turkes It is of circuit an hundred miles and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trées I saw many pleasant Gardens in it which yéeld in great plenty Orenges Lemmons Apples Peares Prunes Figges Oliues Apricockes Dates Adams Apples excellent hearbes faire flowers sweete hony with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees and exceeding good silk is made heere The women of the Citie Sio are the most beautifull Dames of all the Greekes in the world and greatly giuen to Uenery They are for the most part excéeding proud and sumptuous in apparell and commonly go euen Artificers wiues in gownes of Sattin and Taffety yea of Cloth of Siluer and Gold and are adorned with pretious stones and Gemmes and Iewels about their neckes and hands Their husbands are their Pandors and when they see any stranger arriue they will presently demand of him if hée would haue a Mistresse And so they make whores of their owne wiues and are contented for a little gaine to weare hornes such are the base mindes of ignominious Cuckolds After some certaine attendance I embarked in a Carmoesalo bound for Nigroponti which was forth of my way to Constantinople but because I would gladly haue seene Macedonia I followed that determination In our way wee sayled by Mytelene an Iland of old called Isa next Lesbos and lastly Mytelene of Milet the sonne of Phoebus Pythacus one of the seuen Sages of Greece the most valiant Antimenides and his brother Alceus the Poet Theophrastus the Peripatetike Phylosopher Arion the learned Harper and the shee Poet Sapho were borne in it The Iles Sporades are scattered in the Egean Sea like as the Iles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland but different in clymate and fertility for these South-easterne Iles in Summer are extreme hot producing generally Nigroponti excepted but a few Wines Fruits and Cornes scarce sufficient to sustaine the Ilanders But these North-westerne Ilands in Sommer are neither hot nor cold hauing most wholesome and temperate aire and doe yeeld aboundance of Corne euen more then to suffice the Inhabitants which is yeerely transported to the firme Land and sold They haue also good store of cattell and good cheape and the best fishing that the whole Ocean yeeldeth is vpon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland In all these separated parts of the earth which of themselues of old made vp a little Kingdome you shall alwaies find strong March Ale and surpassing fine Aqua Vitae with an infinite number of Conies which you may kill with Crosse-bow or Harquebuse euery morning forth of your Chamber window according to your pleasure in that pastime which I haue both practised my selfe and séene practised by others for they multiply so excéedingly that they dig euen vnder the foundations of dwelling houses Such is the will of God to bestow vpon seuerall places particular blessings whereby hee demonstrateth to man the plentifull store-house of his gracious prouidence so many manner of waies vpon earth distributed all glory bee to his incomprehensible goodnesse therefore I haue seldome séene in all my trauels more toward and tractable people I meane their Gentlemen and better housekéepers then bee these Orkadians and Zetlanders whereof in the prime of my adolescency by two voyages amongst these Northerne Iles I had the full proofe and experience Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea next Albantes and now is surnamed the Quéene of Archipelago It is separated from the firme Land of Thessaly with a narrow channell ouer the which in
one part there is a bridge that passeth betwéene the I le and the maine continent and vnder it runneth a marueilous swift current or tyde Within halfe a mile of the bridge I saw a Marble columne standing on the top of a little rocke whence as the Ilanders told mee Aristotle leaped in and drowned himselfe after that he could not conceiue the reason why this Channell so ebbed and flowed This I le bringeth forth in aboundance all things requisite for humane life and decored with many goodly Uillages From thence I arriued at a Towne in Macedonia called Salonica but of old Thessalonica where I staied fiue daies and was much made of by the Inhabitants It is a Citie full of rich commodities and is the principall place of Thessaly which is a place of Macedon together with Achaia and Myrmedon which are the other two Prouinces of the same There is an Uniuersity of the Iewes heere who professe onely the Hebrew tongue About this Citie is the most fertile Country in all Greece Greece of all the Kingdomes in Europe hath beene most famous and highly renowmed for many notable respects It was first called Helles next Grecia of Grecus who was once King thereof The Greekes of all other Gentiles were the first conuerted Christians and are wonderfull deuout in their professed Religion The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging ouer their shoulders Those that bee the most sincere Religious men abstaine alwaies from eating of flesh contenting themselues with water herbes and bread They differ much in ceremonies and Principles of Religion from the Papists and the Computation of their Kalender is as ours They haue foure Patriarkes who gouerne the affaires of their Church and also any ciuill dissentions which happen amongst them viz. one in Constantinople another in Antiochia the third in Alexandria and the fourth in Ierusalem It is not néedfull for mee to penetrate further in the condition of their estate because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise In Salonica I found a Germe bound for Tenedos in the which I embarked As we sayled along the Thessalonian shoare I saw the two topped Hill Pernassus where it was said the nine Muses haunted but as for the Fountaine Helicon I leaue that to be searched and seene by the imagination of Poets For if it had béene obiected to my sight like an insatiable drunkard I should haue drunke vp the streames of Poesie to haue enlarged my poore Poeticall veine The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe and sterile especially the two toppes the one whereof is dry and sandy signifying that Poets are alwaies poore and needy The other toppe is barren and rocky resembling the ingratitude of wretched and niggardly Patrones the vale betweene the toppes is pleasant and profitable denoting the fruitfull and delightfull soyle which painefull Poets the Muses Plow-men so industriously manure A little more Eastward as wee fetcht vp the Coast of Achaia the Maister of the Uessell shewed mee a ruinous Uillage and Castle where hee said the admired Citie of Thebes had beene Upon the third day from Salonica wee arriued in the roade of Tenedos which is an Iland in the Sea Pontus or Propontis It hath a Citie called Tenedos built by Tenes which is a gallant place hauing a Castle and a faire Hauen for all sorts of Uessels It produceth good store of Wines and the best supposed to bee in all the South-east parts of Europe The Iland is not big but exceeding fertile lying thrée miles from the place where Troy stood as Virgill reported Aenid 2. Est in conspectu Tenedos notissima fama insula In Tenedos I met by accident two French Merchants of Marseills intending for Constantinople who had lost their ship at Sio when they were busie at venereall tilting with their new elected Mistresses and for a second remedy were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo The like of this I haue séene fall out with Sea-faring men Merchants and Passengers who buy sometimes their too much folly with too déere a repentance They and I resoluing to view Troy did hire a Ianisarie to bee our conductor and protector and a Greeke to be our Interpreter Where when we landed wee saw heere and there many relicts of old walles as wee trauelled through these famous bounds And as we were aduanced toward the East part of Troy our Greek brought vs to many Toombes which were mighty ruinous and pointed vs particularly to the Toombes of Hector Aiax Achilles Troylus and many other valiant Champions with the Toombs also of Hecuba Cresseid and other Troian Dames Well I wot I saw infinite old Sepulchres but for their particular names and nomination of them I suspend neither could I beléeue my Interpreter sith it is more then thrée thousand and odde yeares ago that Troy was destroyed He shewed vs also the ruines of King Priams palace and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelt At the North-east corner of Troy which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte there is a gate yet standing and a péece of a reasonable high wall vpon which I found thrée péeces of rusted money which afterward I gaue to the two yonger brethren of the Duke of Florence Where the pride of Phrygia stood it is a most delectable plaine abounding now in cornes fruites and wines and may be called the garden of Natolia yet not populous for there are but onely fiue scattered Uillages in all that bounds The length of Troy hath béene as may bee discerned by the fundamentall walles yet extant about twenty miles the ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Prouerbe Nunc seges est vbi Troia fuit Leauing the fields of noble Ilium wee crossed the Riuer of Simois and dyned at a Uillage named Extetash I remember discharging one couenant with the Ianisary who was not contented with the former condition the Frenchmen making obstacle to pay that which I had giuen the wrathfull Ianisary be laboured them both with a cudgel till the bloud sprung from their heads and compelled them to double his wages This is one true note to a Traueller whereof I had the full experience afterward that if hee can not make his owne part good hee must alwaies at the first motion content these rascals otherwise he wil be constrained doubtlesse with strokes to giue twice as much for they make no account of conscience nor ruled by the law of compassion neither regard they a Christian more then a dogge but whatsoeuer extortion or iniurie they vse against him he must be French-like contented bowing his head and making a counterfet shew of thankes and happy too oftentimes if so he escape Hence wee arriued at the Castles called of old Sestos and Abydos which are two Fortresses opposite to other the one in Europe the other in Asia being a mile distant They stand at the beginning of Hellesponte and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander which
were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelitie in loue But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly yea or rather the strength of Constantinople betwéene which no ship may enter without knowledge of the Captaines And at their returne they must stay thrée dayes before they are permitted to goe through Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople is about fortie leagues Here I left the two Frenchmen with a Greeke Barbour and imbarked for Constantinople in a Turkish Frigato The first place of any note I saw within these narrow Seas was the auncient Citty of Gallipolis the second seate of Thracia which was first builded by Caius Caligula and sometimes hath béene inhabited by the Gaules It was the first Towne in Europe that the Turkes conquered As we sailed betwéene Thracia and Bithinia a learned Grecian that was in my company shewed mee Colchis whence Iason with the assistance of the Argonautes and the aid of Medeas skill did fetch the golden fléece This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helles and of the Countrey Pontus ioyning to the same Sea wherein are these thrée Countries Armenia Colchis and Cappadocia After wee had fetcht vp the famous Citie of Calcedon in Bithinia on our right hand I beheld on our left hand the prospect of that little world the great Citie of Constantinople which indéed yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the amazed beholder of goodly Churches stately Towers gallant Stéeples and other such things whereof now the world make so great account that the whole earth cannot equall it Beholding these delectable obiects wee entred in the Channell of Bosphorus which diuideth Perah from Constantinople And arriuing at Tapanau where all the munition of the great Turke lieth I bade farewell to my company and went to a lodging to refresh my selfe till morning A briefe Description of the renowned Citty of Constantinople together with the customes manners and religion of the Turkes their first beginning and the birth of MAHOMET and what opinion the Mahometanes haue of Heauen and Hell COnstantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia so called of Constantine the Emperour who first enlarged the same It was called of old Bizantium but now by the Turkes Stambolda which signifieth in their language a large Citty It was also called Ethuse and by the Greekes Stymbolis This Citty according to ancient Authors was first sounded by the Lacedemonians who were conducted from Lacedemon by one Pausanias about the yeare of the world 3294 which after their consultation with Apollo where they should settle their abode and dwelling place they came to Bithinia and builded a Cittie which was called Calcedon But the commodity of fishing falling out contrary to their expectation in respect the fishes were afraid of the white bankes of the Citty the Captaine Pausanias left that place and builded Bizantium in Thracia which first was by him intituled Ligos By Pliny Iustine and Strabo it was surnamed Vrbs Illustrissima because it is repleat with all the blessings earth can giue to man yea and in the most fertile soile of Europe Zonaras reporteth that the Athenians in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Soueraigntie wonno it from the Lacedemonians they thus being vanquished suborned Seuerus the Romane Emperour to besiege the same but the Cittie Bizantium being strongly fortified with walles the Romans could not take it in vntill extreame famine constrained them to yeeld after thrée yeares siege And Seuerus to satisfie his cruelty put all to the sword that were within and razed the walles giuing it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians This Citie thus remained in calamitie till Constantine resigning the Citie of Rome and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance of the Roman Bishops reedified the same and translated his Imperiall seate in the East and reduced all the Empire of Greece to an vnite tranquility with immortall reputation which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted But these disorders at length reformed by the seuere administration of iustice for the which and other worthy respects the said Constantine sonne of S. Helen and Emperour of Rome which after the Popes vsurped was surnamed the Great He first in his plantation called this Citie New Rome but when hee beheld the flourishing and multiplying of all things in it and because of the commodious situation thereof he called it Constantinopolis after his owne name This Emperour liued there many prosperous yeares in a most happy estate Likewise many of his successors did vntill such time that Mahomet the second of that name and Emherour of the Turkes liuing in a discontented humor to behold the great and glorious dominions of Christians especially this famous Citie that so flourished in his eyes by moment all circumstances collected his cruell intentions to the full height of ambition whereby hee might abolish the very name of Christianity and also puft vp with a presumptuous desire to enlarge his Empire went with a maruellous power both by Sea and Land vnto this magnificent mansion The issue wherof was such that after diuers batteries and assaults the irreligious Infidels broke downe the walles and entred the Citle where they made a wonderfull massacre of poore afflicted Christians without sparing any of the Romane kinde either male or female In the mercilesse fury of these infernall Impes the Emperour Constantine was killed whose head being cut off was carried vpon the poynt of a Launce through all the Citie and Campe of the Turkes to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianitie His Empresse Daughters and other Ladies were put to death after a strange forme of new deuised torments By this ouerthrow of Constantinople this Mahomet tooke twelue kingdomes and two hundred Cities from the Christians which is a lamentable losse of such an illustrious Empire Thus was that Imperiall Citie lost in the yeare 1453. May 29. when it had remained vnder the gouernment of Christians 1198 yeares It is now the chiefe abode of the great Turke Sultan Acomet the 15 Grand Can of the line of Ottoman liuing at this day who is about 23 yeares of age a man more giuen to venery then martiality which giueth presently a greater aduantage to the Persians in their instant warres The forme or situation of this Citie is like vnto a triangle the South part whereof and the East part are inuironed with Hellespontus and Bosphorus Thraicus and the North part adioyning to the firme land It is in compasse about the Walles estéemed to be 18 miles in one of these triangled points standeth the Palace of the great Turke called Seralia and the Forrest wherein he hunteth which is two miles in length The speciall obiect of antiquity I saw within this Citie was the incomparable Church of S. Sophia whose ornaments and hallowed vessels were innumerable in the time of Iustinian the Emperour who first builded it but now conuerted to a Mosque and consecrate to Mahomet after a Diabolicall manner I saw also the famous
a rasour whereupon those who haue not committed hainous offences may passe ouer to hell but those who haue done buggery as the most part of them do and homicide shall fall headlong from it to the profoundest pit in Hell where they shall sometimes burne in fire and sometimes be cast into hote boyling water to be refreshed And for the greater punishment of the wicked say they God hath planted a trie in Hell named Saiaratash or Roozo Saytanah that is the head of the Deuill vpon the fruit of which the damned continually feed Mahomet in one of the chapters of his Alcoran calleth this trie The trie of Malediction They also thinke the tormented soules may one day bee saued prouiding they doe indure the scorching flames of Hell patiently Thus as briefly as I could haue I laid open the opinion of the Turkes concerning their Hell and Heauen before the eyes of these who peraduenture haue neuer beene acquainted with such a Ghostly Discourse The originall of the Turkes is said to haue béene in Scythia from whence they came to Arabia Petrea and giuing battell oft to the Sarazens in the end subdued them and so they multiplyed and mightily increased the apparence of their further increasing is very euident except God of his mercy towards vs preuent their bloud-sucking threatnings with the vengeance of his iust iudgements The Sarazens are descended of Esau who after he had lost the blessing went and inhabited in Arabia Petrea and his posterity striuing to make a cléere distinction betweene them the Ismalites and Iewes called themselues as come of Sara Sarazens and not of Hagar the handmaid of Abraham of whom came the Ismaelites neither of the race of Iacob of whom came the Iewes But now the Sarazens being ioyned with the Turkes their Conquerours haue both lost their name and the right of their descent The puissance of the great Turke is admirable yet the most part of his Kingdomes in Asia are not well inhabited neither populous but these parts which border with Christians are strongly fortified with Castles People and Munition If Christian Princes could concord and consult together it were a easie thing in one yeare to subdue the Turkes and roote out their very names from the earth yea moreouer I am certified that there are more Christians euen slaues and subiects to the great Turke which doe inhabite his Dominions then might ouerthrow and conquer these Infidels if they had worthy Captaines Gouernours and furniture of Armes without the helpe of any Christian of Christendome Amongst the Turkes there is no Gentility nor Nobility but are all as ignoble and inferiour members to one maine body the great Turke lineally descended from the house of Ottoman whose magnificence puissance and power is such that the most eloquent tongue cannot sufficiently declare his thousands of Ianisaries Shouses and others daily attending him his hundreds besides his Quéene of Concubines hourly maintained by him his Armies Bashaws Garrisons and forces here and there dispersed amongst his dominions would bee impossible for me briefly to relate The inhumane policy of the Turkes to auoyd ciuill dissention is such that the seed of Ottoman al except one of them are strangled to death wherefore as Augustus Cesar said of Herod in the like case It is better to bee the great Turkes dogge then his sonne His daughters or sisters are not so vsed but are giuen in marriage to any Bashaw whom so they affect yet with this condition the King saith to his daughter or sister I giue thée this man to be at all times thy slaue and if he offend thée in any case or bee disobedient to thy will here I giue thée a dagger to cut off his head which alwayes they weare by their sides for the same purpose The Persians differ much from the Turkes in nobility humanity and actiuity and especially in poynts of religion who by contention thinke each other accursed and notwithstanding both factions are vnder the Mahometanicall Law Neither are the sonnes of the Persian Kings so barbarously handled as theirs for all the brethren one excepted are onely made blinde wanting their eyes and are alwayes afterward gallantly maintained like Princes And it hath oftentimes fallen out that some of these Kings dying without procreate heires there haue of these blinde sonnes succéeded to the Empire who haue restored againe the séed of that royall family A Description of his Trauels into Asia Maior Cyprus and the Carpathian Iles the reason why he was disappoynted of his purpose being so neere Babylon of the beauty of Damascus of the nature of Arabians and of his returne to Ierusalem DEparting from Constantinople I came to Cenchrea being 300 miles distant where S. Paul cut his haire after his vow was performed Act. 18.18 From thence I went to Smyrna in Carmania a famous Kingdome in Asia the lesser This Citty was one of the seuen Churches mentioned Reuel 2.8 It is a goodly place hauing a faire hauen for shippes they haue great Trafficke with all Nations especially for the fine Silke Cotten-wooll and Dimmetie brought to it by the Country Peasants which strangers buy from them Truely neere vnto this Citie I saw such a long continuing Plaine abounding in Corne Wines all sorts of fruitfull Herbage and so infinitely peopled that me thought Nature séemed with the peoples industry to contend the one by propagating creatures the other by admirable agriculture Thiatyra now called Tiria one also of the seuen Churches is not farre hence From this Citie I embarked in a Turkish Carmoesalo bound for Rhodes In our sayling along the coast of Asia Minor the first place of any note I saw was the ruinous Citie of Ephesus yet somewhat inhabited and pleasantly adorned with Gardens faire Fields and gréene Woods of Oliue trées which on the sea doe yeeld a delectable prospect It was one of the seuen Churches Reuel 2.1 Ouer-against this Citie is the I le of Lango anciently called Coos wherein the great Hippocrates was borne and Apelles the most excellent Painter It is both fertile and populous and of circuit about foure score miles There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it so friendly vnto the inhabitants that when the men are sleeping vnder the shadow of trees they come crawling and will linke or claspe themselues about their neckes and bodies without doing any harme neither when they awake are the beasts afraide And néere to Lango is the Ile Nixa of old Strangoli and by some Dionisa and Naxus an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull As we failed by the West part of the I le a Greeke passenger shewed me the place where as hee said Ariadne was deceiued of Theseus which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille Continuing our nauigation I saw a little Ile called Ephdosh where the Turkes told me that all the Ilanders were naturally good swimmers paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turke saue onely once in the yeare there
time had altered their hard fortunes by a new change but were they preuented and euery one cut off by the bloudy hands of the Turkes This massacre was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwayes are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles that he who most affecteth her she most and altogether deceiueth But they who trust in the Lord shall be as stable as Mount Sion which cannot be remoued and questionlesse one day God in his all-eternall mercy will relieue their miseries and in his iust iudgements recompence these bloudy oppressors with the heauy vengeance of his all-séeing iustice In my returne from Nicosia to Famagosta with my Trouchman we encountred by the way with foure Turkes who néedes would haue my horse to ride vpon which my Interpreter refused But they in a reuenge pulled me by the héeles from the horse backe beating me most pittifully and left me almost for dead In this meane while my companion fled and escaped the sceleratenesse of their hands and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes who by accident came by and relieued me I had doubtlesse immediatly perished From Famagosta I imbarked in a Germe and arriued at Tripoly Tripoly is a Citie in Siria standing a mile from the marine side néere to the foote of Mount Libanus since it hath béene first founded it hath thrée times béene situated and remoued in thrée sundry places First it was ouerwhelmed with water Secondly it was sacked with Cursares and Pirates Thirdly it is now like to be ouerthrowne with new made mountaines of sand There is no Hauen by many miles neere vnto it but a dangerous rode where often when Northerly winds blow ships are cast away The great trafficke which now is at this place was formerly at Scanderona a little more Eastward but by reason of the infectious aire that corrupteth the bloud of strangers procéeding of two high mountaines who are supposed to bee part of mount Caucasus which with-hold the prospect of the Sunne from the In-dwellers more then thrée houres in the morning So that in my knowledge I haue knowne dye in one ship and a moneths time twenty Mariners for this cause the Christian Shippes were glad to haue their commodities brought to Tripoly which is a more wholsome and conuenient place The daily interrogation I had here for a Carauans departure to Aleppo was not to me a little fastidious being mindfull to visite Babylon In this my expectation I tooke purpose with thrée Venetian Marchants to go sée the Cedars of Libanon which was but a dayes iourney thither As we ascended vpon the mountaine our ignorant guide mistaking the way brought vs in a labyrinth of dangers insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of rocks two of our Asses fell ouer a banke and brake their neckes And if it had not beene for a Christian Amaronite who accidentally encountred with vs in our wilsum wandring we had béen miserably lost both in regard of rockes and heapes of snow we passed and also of great torrents which fell downe with force from the steepy toppes wherein one of these Marchants was twice almost drowned When we arriued to the place where the Cedars grew we saw but 24 of all growing after the manner of Oke trées but a great deale taller straighter and greater and the branches grow so straight out as though they were kept by Art Although that in the dayes of Salomon this mountaine was ouer-clad with forrests of Cedars yet now there are but onely these and 9 miles Westward thence 17 more The nature of that tree is alwaies gréene yéelding an odoriferous smell and an excellent kind of fruit like vnto Apples but of a swéeter taste more wholesome in digestion The roots of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by shepheards who haue made fires thereat and holes wherein they sléepe yet neuerthelesse they flourish gréene aboue in the toppes and branches The length of this mountaine is about fortie miles reaching from the West to the East and continually Summer and Winter reserueth snow on the toppes It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature as herbage tillage pastorage fructiferous trées fine fountaines good Cornes and absolutely the best wine that is bred on the earth The Signior thereof is a free-holder by birth a Turk and will not acknowledge any superior but the most part of the inhabited Uillages are Christians called Amaronites or Nostranes quasi Nazaritans and are gouerned by their owne Patriarke There are none at this day do speake the Syriack tongue saue onely these people of Mount Libanus in that Language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written The kind Amaronite whom we met and tooke with vs for our best guide in descending from the Cedars shewed vs many caues and holes in rockes where Coliers religious Sirens and Amaronites abide Amongst these austere Cottages I saw a faire Toombe all of one stone being seuentéene foote of length which as he said was the sepulchre of the valiant Ioshua who conducted the people of Israel in the land of promise The Mahometans esteeme this to bee a holy place and many resort to it in pilgrimage to offer vp their Satanicall prayers to Mahomet I saw vpon this Mountaine a sort of fruit called Amazza franchi that is the death of Christians because when Italians or others of Europe eate any quantity thereof they presently fall into the bloudy fluxes or else ingender some other pestilentious feuer whereof they die The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine vs at his house so did also all the Amaronites of the other Uillages who met vs in our way before we came to their Townes and brought presents with them of Bread Wine Figges Oliues Sallats Capons Egges and such like as they could on a suddaine prouide About the Uillage of Eden is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus abounding in all sorts of delitious fruites True it is the variety of these things maketh the silly people thinke the Garden of Eden was there By which allegeance they approue the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these arguments that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-iacent Regions and is inuincible for the height and strengths they haue in rockes that Eden was still re-edified by the fugitiue inhabitants when their enemies had ransacked it Also they affirme before the deluge it was so nominate and after the floud it was repaired againe by Iaphet the sonne of Noah who builded Ioppa or Iaphta in Palestina Loe these are the reasons they show strangers for such like informations There are with this one other two supposed places of this earthly Paradise the one is by the Turkes and some ignorant Georgians holden to bee at Damascus for the beauty of faire fields gardens and excellent fruites there especially for the trée called Mouslee which they beléeue hath growne there since the beginning of the world Indéed it is a rare and singular Tree for I saw it at Damascus
water The confusion of this multitude was not onely grieuous in regard of the extreme heate prouiding of victuals at poore Uillages and scarcity of water to fill our bottles made of boare skinnes but also amongst narrow and stony passages thronging we oft fell one ouer another in great heapes in danger to be smothered yea and oftentimes we that were Christians had our bodies well beaten by our conducting Turkes At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selues and refresh the beasts I would often fetch a walke to stretch my legs that were stifled with a scumbling beast wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented and in derision would laugh and mucke me For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes or stand to eate their vsage being such that when they come from the Horse backe presently sit downe on the ground folding their feete vnder them when they repose dine and sup So do also their Artizans and all Turkes in the world sit alwaies crosse-legged wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetudo of the industrious Taylors In their houses they haue no bed to lie on nor chaires to sit on nor Tables to eate on but a bench made of Boords along the house side of a foote height from the floore spread ouer with a Carpet whereon they vsually sit eating drinking sléeping resting and doing of manuall exercises all in one place They neuer vncloth themselues when they go to rest neither haue they any bed-cloathes saue onely a couerlet aboue them I haue seene hundreds of them after this manner lie ranked like durty swine in a beastly stie or loathsome Iades in a filthy stable Upon the ninth day leauing Cotafa behind vs on the Mountaines wee entred in a pleasant plaine of thrée leagues in length adorned with many Uillages Gardens and Riuers and arriuing at Damascus we were all lodged some in Chambers wanting beds and others without on hard stones in a great Cane called Heramnen where we stayed one day Damascus is the capitall Citie of Syria called by Turkes Shamma and is scituated on a faire plaine and beautified with many Riuers on each side especially Pharpar and Abdenah excellent Orchards and all other naturall obiects of elegancie That for situation Artizens all manner of commodities and variety of fruits in all the Asiaticall Prouinces it is not paralelled By Turkes it is called the Garden of Turkie Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazar the seruant of Abraham others say it is the place where Cain slew Abel But howsoeuer I perswade thee it is a pleasant and gallant Citie well walled and fortified with a strong Castle the most part of the stréetes are couered so that the Citizens are preserued in Summer from the heate and in Winter from the raine The like commodity but not after that forme hath Padua in Lumbardie Their Bazar or market place is also couered so are commonly all the Bazars in Turkie The best Carobiers Adams Apples and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is heere Néere vnto the Bazar there is a Moskie called Gemmah wherein is as my guide said the Sepulchre of Ananias and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul In another street I saw the house of Ananias which is but a hollow Cellar vnder the ground and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in a basket In the stréete where they sell their Viano my Interpretor shewed mee a great gate of fine mettall which he said was one of the dores of the Temple of Salomon and was transported thence by the Tartarians who conquered Ierusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares age I saw such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels to bee sold as beere or wine is rife with vs. For the custodie of the aforesaid Castle and neighbouring Countries there are two thousand Ianisaries appointed insomuch that the Bashaw of Damascus is the greatest in authority of all the other Bashaws in Asia for vnder his commandement in behalfe of the great Turke hee detaineth Syria Phoenicia Samacia Galilee Ierusalem and all Palestina euen to the Desarts of Arabia The meanes of the preseruation of so great a state is onely by an induced confidence vpon the power and force of those Ianisaries who as well haue their pay in time of tranquility as warres to defend these Countries from the incursions of the wiloe Arabs which euermore annoy the Turkes and also Strangers and can not possibly bee brought to a quiet and well-formed manner of liuing but are continuall spoylers of these parts of the Turks Dominions That mischiefe daily increaseth rather then any way diminisheth They taking example from the beastly Turkes adde by these patternes more wickednesse to the badnesse of their owne dispositions So that euery one of these Sauages according to his power dealeth with all men vnciuily and cruelly euen like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts liuing all vpon rapine wanting all sense of humanity more then an outward shew of appearance Whereby combining themselues in strength together doe tyrannize ouer all euen from the red Sea to Babylon Thus they in that violent humour inuading also these of Affricke hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with fiftéene thousand Ianisaries which defend the frontiers of Egypt and Gozan Leauing all the Turkes at Damascus saue onely our Ianisaries and Soldiers within the space of two houres after our departure from thence trauelling in our way to Ierusalem the whole company of the Armenians fell on the ground kissing it and making many sincere demonstrations of vnwonted deuotion At the which I being amazed stood gazing asking my Trouchman what newes who replyed saying it was the place where Saint Paul was conuerted which they had and all Christians should haue in great regard Three daies were wee betwixt Damascus and the East part of Galile which is the beginning of Canaan in two of which thrée wee encountred with Marishes and Quagmires being a great hinderance to vs This barren and marish Countrey is a part of Arabia Petrea comming in with a point betweene Galile and Syria It is vndoubtedly a most théeuish way for as we trauelled in the night there were many of vs forced to carry burning Lights in our hands and our soldiers had their harquebuzes redy to discharge al to affray the bloud-thirsty Arabians who in holes caues and bushes lie obscured waiting for the aduantage vpon trauellers Truely with much difficulty and greater danger passed we these Petrean iournies Here I remarked a singular qualitie and rare perfection in the carefull conduction of our Captaine who would when he came to any dangerous place giue the watch-word of S. Iohanne meaning as much thereby that none should speake or whisper after that warning vnder the paine of a Harquebusado And no more wee durst vnlesse hee had stretcht out his hand making vs a figne when occasion serued of liberty lest by tumultuous noyse in the night our enemies should haue the fore-knowledge of our comming and knowing also
But when they know how to make any gaine by strangers O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable villaines About two of the clocke in the after-noone wee arriued at Berah called of old Beersheba being eleuen miles distant from Ierusalem Hauing a little reposed we embraced our mountainous way as cheerefully as we could for we were excéeding faint and trauelled that day aboue three and forty miles whereby we might arriue at Ierusalem before the gates were shut sustaining drouth heate hunger and not a few other inconueniences At last we beheld the prospect of Ierusalem which was not onely a contentment to my wearied body but also being rauished with a kind of vnwonted reioycing the teares gushed from mine eies for too much ioy In this time the Armenians began to sing in their owne fashion Psalmes to praise the Lord and I also sung the 103 Psalme all the way till we arriued neere the walles of the Citie where wee ceased from our singing for feare of the Turkes The Sunne being passed to his nightly repose before our arriuall wee found the gates locked and the Keyes carryed vp to the Bashaw in the Castle which bred a common sorrow in the company being all both hungry and weary yet the Carauan entreated earnestly the Turkes within to giue vs ouer the walles some victuals for our money shewing heauily the necessity wee had thereof but they would not neither durst attempt such a thing In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs who remaineth there to receiue Trauellers of Christendome hauing got newes of our arriuing came and demanded of the Carauan if any Franks of Europe were in his society And he said onely one Then the Guardiano called mee and asked mee of what Nation I was and when I told him he seemed to bee exceeding glad yet sorrowfull for our misfortune He hauing knowing my distresse returned and sent two Friers to mee with bread wine and fishes which they let ouer the wall as they thought in a secret place but they were espied and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Bashaw a great fine otherwise he had béene beheaded for the Turkes alledged he had taken in munition from the Christians to betray the Citie This they do oft for a lesser fault then that was onely to get bribes and money from the Grey Friers Aprill the foureteenth day vpon Palme-sunday in the morning we entred into Ierusalem and at the gate wee were particularly searched to the effect wee carried in no furniture of Armes nor poulder with vs and the Armenians notwithstanding they are slaues to Turkes behoued to render their weapons to the Keepers such is the feare they haue of Christians The gates of the Citie are of yron outwardly and aboue each gate are brasen Ordinance planted for their owne defence Hauing taken my leaue of the Carauan and the company who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke I kept my way to the aforesaid Monastery and at the entry of the house the whole Friers met me receiuing me ioyfully and reioyced that a Christian had come from such a farre Countrey to visit Ierusalem I found here ten Franks newly come from Christendome and nine others which dwelt in Syria and Cyprus who were all glad of me shewing thesemlues so kind so carefull so louing and so honourable in all respects that they were as kinde Gentlemen as euer I met withall such is the loue of strangers when they méet in forraigne Countries they had also in high respect the aduentures of my trauell beyond Ierusalem troubling me all the while we were together to tell them newes and were alwaies in admiration that I had no fellow-pilgrime in my long peregrination A Description of Ierusalem and the memorable things he saw there and in Iudea of the Holy Graue Sodome and Gomorha Iordan the Desarts Grand Cayro Egypt the Riuer Nylus and of his returne to Christendome IERUSALEM is now called by the Turkes Kuddish which signifieth in their Language a Holy Citie It was first called Moriah of Moria one of the seuen heads of Sion where Abraham would haue sacrificed Isaac Genesis 22.2 and vpon his offring it was called Ierusalem Gen. 14.18 It was also named Salem where Sem and Melchisedech dwelt and Ierusalem was also callled Iebus 2. Sam. 24.16 And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple 2. Chron. 3.1 which afterward was termed Heiron Salomonis whence came by corruption that word Hierosolyma Dauid also in his Psalmes gaue it diuers names Ierusalem standeth in the same place where old Ierusalem stood but not so populous neither in each respect of bredth or length so spacious for on the South side of Ierusalem a great part of Mount Syon is left without which was anciently the heart of the old Citie and they haue taken on the North side now both Mount Caluarie and the holy Graue within the walles which were built by Sultan Selim So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great though a part thereof be remoued but a man may boldly affirme that the most part of this Citie is builded on that place where the first Ierusalem was As may truely appeare and is made manifest by these Mountaines mentioned in the Scriptures whereupon Ierusalem is both situate and inuironed about who reserue their names to this day and are still seene and knowne by the same as Mount Syon Mount Caluarie Mount Moriah and Mount Oliuet The forme of the situation of Ierusalem is now like to a Hart or Triangle the one point whereof looketh East extending downeward almost to the valley of Iehosaphat which diuideth Ierusalem and Mount Oliuet The second head of point bendeth out South-west vpon Syon bordering néere to the Ualley of Gehinnon The third corner lyeth on Mount Moriah toward the North and by-West hauing the prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato which adorne Ierusalem more then any thing within it the holy Graue excepted It is of circuite about thrée miles and a halfe of our measure As touching the former glory of this Citie I will not meddle withall nor yet describe sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same and concerning the lamentable destruction of it I referre that to the famous Historiographer Iosephus who largely discourseth of many hundred thousands famished and put to the sword within this multi-potent Citie by Vespasian and Titus his sonne being the messengers of Gods iust iudgements which by his computation amount beyond the number of eleuen hundred thousands This Citie hath béene oft conquered by enemies first by Nebuchodonosor the Assyrian King Secondly by the Greekes and Alexander the Great and also maruellously afflicted by Antiochus Thirdly it was taken in by Pompeius Fourthly destroyed of Vespasian and Titus Fiftly it was re-edifyed by Adrian the Emperrour and wonne againe by Gosdroes the Persian King Sixthly
in the bearing it on my shoulders notwithstanding the way it selfe was fastidious This Mountaie is called Quarantanam or Quaranto being of height by the computation of my painfull experience aboue sixe miles and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller till that the top is couered with a little Chappell not vnlike to the proportion of a Pyramide There is no way to ascend vpon this Hill saue one which hath béene hewen out of the rocke by the industry of men experimented in Masonry which was done at the cost of Quéene Helen going vp by the degrées of 45 turnes In all our company there were onely thrée Friers foure Pilgrimes and I that durst attempt to climbe the mountaine After diuers dangers and narrow passages hauing come to the top we entred into a caue ioyning to the Chappell where say they in this place did Christ fast and here it was that he rebuked Sathan In our returne againe wee had a most fearfull descending for one Frier Laurenzo had fallen fiue hundred fadomes ouer the rocke and broke his necke if it had not béene for mee who rashly and vnaduisedly endangered my owne life for his safety as my patent vnder the great seale of Ierusalem beareth sufficient testimony thereof To recite all the circumstances of his deliuerance would moue some merriment to the reader which I purposely omit to auoyd tediousnesse Hauing saluted our Padre Guardiano and the rest of our expecters in our way as wee returned to Ierusalem wée rode by a ruinous Abby where say they S. Ierome dwelt and was sed there by wild Lyons Upon Thursday at night before Good-Friday wee went to the Holy Graue where we staied Friday Saturday on Sunday which was Easter day we came forth first before we entred the Church we gaue euery one of vs Pilgrimes nine Chickens of gold to the Turkes who are kéepers of the doore next two Chickens for our first entring the Citie Thirdly vnto the Padre Guardiano thrée péeces of gold for the candles and other things he spent in their owne ceremonies which we behoued to pay Both mount Caluary and the holy Graue are comprehended within one Church After we entred the first place of any note we saw was the place of Unction which is a foure squared stone inclosed about within an Iron Reuele on which say they the dead body of our Sauiour lay and was embalmed after hee was taken from the Crosse whiles Ioseph of Arimathea was preparing that new Sepulchre for him wherein neuer man lay From thence we came to the holy Graue The holy Graue is couered with a little Chappell standing within a round Quire in the west end of the Church It hath two low and narrow entries As wee entred the first doore the Guardiano fell downe ingenochiato and kissed a stone whereupon hee said the Angell stood when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre to know if Christ was risen on the third day as he promised And within the entry of the second doore wee saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried and prostrating our selues in great humility euery man according to his religion offered vp his prayers to God The sepulchre it selfe is eight foote and a halfe in length and aduanced about thrée foot in height from the ground and three foot fiue inches broad being couered with a faire Marble stone of white colour In this Chappell are alwayes burning aboue fifty Lampes maintained by Christian Princes and they stand within a band of pure gold which is excéeding sumptuous hauing the names of those who sent or gaue them ingrauen vpon the vpper edges of the round circles I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe were yet extant who replied there was but because said he Christians resorting thither being deuoutly moued with affection to the place carryed away part thereof which caused S. Helen to inclose it vnder this stoue whereby some reliques of it should alwayes remaine I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha where the holy Graue was as may appeare by the distance betweene Mount Caluary and this sacred Monument which extendeth to forty of my paces This Chappell is outwardly decored with fifteene couple of Marble Pillars and of 22 foot high and aboue the vpper Couerture of the same Chappell there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar Wood couered with lead and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same trée The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth is like vnto that ancient Rotundo in Rome but a great deale higher and larger hauing two gorgeous Galleries one aboue another and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the toppe with a large round which yéeldeth to the heauens the prospect of that most sacred place From thence we marched to Mount Caluary where we ascended by one and twenty steps made partly of Wood and partly of Alabaster stone and there I saw a hole in a rocke of a cubite deepe beautified with thicke boords of siluer and ingrafted letters in which say they the Crosse stood whereon our Sauiour was crucified Leauing Mount Caluary on our left hand we came to the Tomb of Godfrey de Bullion who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Ierusalem and refused to be crowned there saying it was not decent the seruants head should be crowned with gold where the Masters head had béene crowned with thornes hauing this inscription engrauen on the one side Hic iacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion qui totam hanc terram acquisiuit cultui diuino cuius anima requiescat in pace And ouer-gainst it is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother which hath these Uerses in golden Letters curiously indented Rex Baldevinus Iudas alter Machabeus Spes patriae Vigor Ecclesiae Virtusvtriusque Quem formidabant cui dona tributa ferebant Caesar Aegypti Dan ac homicida Damascus Proh dolor in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo The other things within the Church they shewed vs were these a marble pillar whereunto say they our Sauiour was bound when he was whipped and scourged for sakes the place in a low Cellar about 14 degrées vnder the ground where the Crosse was hid by the Iewes and found againe by S. Helen the place where Christ was crowned with Thornes which is reserued by the Abasines and where the Souldiers cast lots for his Garments the place where he was imprisoned whiles they were making of his Crosse and where the Crosse being laid along vpon the ground our Sauiour was nailed fast to it the Rocke which as they say rent at his crucifying which is more likely to be done with hammers and set one péece a foote from another for the slit lookes as if it had béen cleft with wedges and béetles And lastly they take vpon them below Caluary to shew where the head of Adam was buried These and many other things are so doubtfull that I doe not register them for truth I meane in demonstrating the particular places but
Almighty some whereof dyed in the Desarts and the rest in Grand Cayro leauing mee euen as I was before a solitary wanderer amongst rauenous Wolues the particular rehearsing of which would but aggrauate my sorrow and renew the remembrance of my by-past melancholy Not that I stood in néed of any help to stir vp the alacrity of my mind which of it selfe was innated by nature and fortified in maturity by propagating diuers aspiring and alacrious conceits but my excessiue griefe was because they daily pretended my good whereby I was infinitely obliged to their kind and vndeserued courtesies For where such proffer of loue remaineth in the disponers it bréedeth alwaies in the receiuers a kind of dutifull obligation and as it was in some honourable fashion extended towards me so the remembring of it shall adde a greater grace and reputation to strengthen the memory of their vntimely death Neither will I relie so much vpon my owne worthinesse as to thinke that benefite of the procrastination of my life was by any merite of mine deserued but that God so much the more might shew his incomprehensible greatnesse by that deliuerance in my naturall imbecility For all the beginnings of man are deriued from God whose ends are either perfected or disanulled by his determination and nothing we possesse is properly our owne or gotten by our owne power but giuen vs onely through his munificence And all the spaces of earth which our feete tread ouer the light we enioy and the excellent faculties we are indued withall or what we can do say or thinke is onely raised guided and distributed by Gods impenetrable counsell will and prouidence which although the pride of our wicked nature doth not yeeld the true attribution thereunto yet the powerfull working of the counsell of God is such that in it selfe it proueth an eternall wisedome and confoundeth the foolishnesse of the world Betwéene Gaza in Palestina and Saleak on the frontiers of Gozan I had no sight of any remarkeable obiect for in all that six daies iourney we trauelled still in the night to shun the intollerable heat of the Sun by day wherefore it with-held from our eyes the visible shew of sandy and barren desarts whiles our bodies felt the painefull fruite of that mountainous ground in the silent night yet not so silent but we saw often a concurrance of naked Arabs partly liuing in haire-cloth tents and partly in holes and Caues who gaue vs diuers assaults and sometimes intercepted our forward going notwithstanding of that refuge we had of the Castles in that waste wildernesse which are maintained by the Soldan of Egypt for the succour of Trauellours At Saleak we encountred with a great company and 1200 Camels and Dromidores which were laden with the wares of Damascus and going to Cayro A Dromidore and Camell differ much in quality but not in quantity being of one height bredth and length saue onely their heads and feet which are proportionated alike and the difference of quality is such that the Dromidorie hath a hard-reaching trot and will ride aboue sixty miles in the day if that his Rider can endure the paine But the Camell is of the contrary disposition for he hath a most slow and lazy pace remouing the one foote from the other as though he were weighing his feete in a ballance neyther can he go faster although he would But he is a great deale more tractable then the other for when his maister loadeth him hee falleth downe on his knées to the ground and then riseth againe with his burthen which will be a maruellous great weight The red sea which we left to the Westward of vs is not red as many suppose but is the very colour of other seas The reason for which it hath béene called Mare rubrum is onely because of the bankes rushes sands and bushes that grow by the shore side which are naturally red Some others haue called it so in respect of the brookes which Moses turned to red bloud who mis-construing the true sense took seas for riuers Arriuing at Cayro I lodged in the house of a French Consull and on the second day I went with two French Merchants to view the thrée Pyramides surnamed The Worlds Wonders which are distant from Grand Cayro about foure leagues standing néere to the bankes of Nylus In proportion they are quadrangled growing smaller and smaller towards the top and builded with great and large stones the most part whereof are fiue foot broad and nine foot long All the Historians that euer wrot of these wonders haue not so amply recited their admirable greatnesse as the experience of the beholder may testifie their excessiue hugenesse and height The first we approched vnto is biggest whose height amounteth to according to the computation of our Dragoman 1092 foote And at the bottome euery square of the foure faces is of bredth 450 foote Hauing outwardly mounted by degrées with great paine to the top I was maruellously rauished to sée such a square plat-forme all of one péece of stone which couereth the head each side wherof extendeth to 17 foot of my measure It is yet a great maruell to me by what engine they could bring it vp so safe to such a height Truely the more I beheld this strange worke the more I was stricken in admiration for before we ascended the top of this Pyramide did séeme so sharpe as a pointed Diamond but when we were mounted thereon we found it so large that in my opinion it would haue contained a hundred men The middle Pyramide did looke a farre off somewhat higher then the other two but when we came to the roote thereof we found it not so for the stone-worke is a great deale lower but the aduancement of the height is only because of a high ground wheron it standeth It is of the same fashion of the first but hath no degrées to ascend vpon neither hath the third Pyramide any at all being by antiquity of time all worne and demolished yet an admirable worke to behold such great masses and as it were erected mountaines all of fine marble The reason why they were first founded is by many ancient Authors so diuersly coniectured that I will not meddle therewith Betwéene the biggest Pyramide and Nylus I saw a Colosse or head of an Idoll of a wonderfull greatnesse being all of one marble stone erected on a round rocke It is of height not reckoning the Columns aboue 815 foote and of circuit 68. Pliny gaue it the name Sphingo and reported much more of the bignesse largenesse and length of it But howsoeuer he erred in his description yet I resolue my selfe it is of so great a quantity that the like thereof being one intire péece the world affoordeth not and may be reckoned amongst the rarest wonders Some say that anciently it was an Oracle the which so soone as the Sun arose would giue an answere to the Aegyptians of any thing by them demanded In our
way as we returned our Dragoman shewed vs on the banke of Nylus where a Crocodile was killed by the ingenious policie of a Venetian Marchant being licentiated by the Soldan The match whereof for bignesse and length was neuer seene in that riuer whose body was 22 foote and in compasse of the shoulders 8 foot This cruell beast had deuoured aboue 46 men and women besides other creatures and in his belly were found more then 60 rings of gold and siluer which the miserable bodies had worne in their noses through their cheeks and vnder lips for such is the custome of the people to weare their iewels And if the baser sort cannot attaine to such like then they counterfeit their betters with rings of brasse and lead wearing also on their armes and ankles broade bands of Iron continually The garden wherein the onely and true Balsamo groweth is inclosed with a high wall and daily guarded by Turkes who hardly will suffer any Christian to enter within much lesse the Iewes for not long agoe they were the cause that almost this Balme was brought to confusion The tree it selfe is but of three foot height which keepeth euermore the coloor greene hauing a broad thrée poynted leafe and twice in the yeare it being incised yeeldeth a red water which is the naturall Balsamo Not farre hence there is a place caled Mommeis lying in a sandy desart where are innumerable Caues cut forth of a rock wherunto the corps of the most men in Cayro are carried and interred which dead bodies remaine alwayes vnputrified neither yeeld they any stinking smell Grand Cayro is an admirable great Citie and larger of bounds then Constantinople but not so populous neither so wel builded It was of old caled Memphis was the furthest place that Vlysses in his trauels visited so well memorized by Homer yet a voyage now of no such estimation as that Princely Poet accounted it for his trauels are not comparable to some of these dayes wherein we liue It is situate in a pleasant plaine and in the heart of Aegypt being distant from Nylus about an English mile It was called Cayro Babylonia for there are two Babylons one in Assyria which by the Turks is called Bagdat and the other is this which ioyneth with Cayro nouo The circuit of new Cayre is about 22 miles not speaking of Cayre de Babylon Medin Boulak the great Towne of Caraffar being as Sub-vrbs of many smals maketh vp a little world the length whereof in all is thought to be 28 miles of bredth 14. The principal gates are these Babeh Mamstek which is toward the Wildernesse of the red sea Bebzavillah toward Nylus and Babell Eutuch toward the fields The stréetes are narrow being all of them almost couered and the foundation of their buildings is raised vpon two Stages height to kéepe the people from the parching heate The Bazar or exchange beginneth at the gate of Mamstek and endeth at a place called Babesh At the corners of chiefe places there are horses to be hired that for a small matter a man may ride where so he will to view this spacious spred Citie and change as many horses as he listeth hauing the maisters which owe them to conuoy them There is a great commerce here with all Nations vnder the heauens For by their concurring thither it is wonderfully peopled with infinite numbers Such a multitude and the extreme heate is the cause why the pest is euermore in it insomuch that at some certaine times 10000 persons haue dyed thereof in one day In this Towne you shall euer finde all these sorts of Christians Italians French Greekes Almaines Georgians Aethiopians Iacobines Armenians Syrians Nestorians Amaronites Nicolaitans Abessenes Nubians Slauonians Gofties Ragusans and some captiue Hungarians the number of which is euer thought to bee beyond an hundred thousand people besides all other sorts of Infidels as Turkes blacke and white Moores Musilmans Persians Tartars Indians Iewes Arabians Barbarres and Sarazens From the Castle wherein the Soldan habitateth which is builded on a pretty hill you haue the prospect of the whole Citie the Gardens and Uillages bordering on Nylus and of the most part of the plaine and fertile places of Egypt Aegypt bordereth with Aethiopia and the Desarts of Libia on the South on the North with the sea Medirerrene the chiefest ports whereof are Alexandria and Damietta Toward the Occident with the great lake of Bouchiarah and a dangerous Wildernesse confining therewith so full of wilde and venemous beasts which maketh the West part vnaccessable On the East with a part of the red Sea and desarts of Arabia through which the people of Israel passed In all the land of Egypt which is a great kingdome there is no Well or Fountaine saue onely the riuer Nylus neither doe the inhabitants know what raine is because they neuer sée any This floud irriguateth all the low Plaines of the land once in the yeare which inundation beginneth vsually in Iuly and continueth to the end of August which furnisheth with water all the Inhabiters There is a dry Pond called Machash in the midst whereof standeth a Pillar of eightéene brasses height being equall with the profundity of the ditch whereby they know his increasing and if in the yeare following they shall haue plenty or scarsity of things For when the water beginneth to flow aboue the ordinary course it falleth downe incontinently in this place where it ariseth euery day vpon the pillar sometimes a spanne a foote or two foote At the time of his inunding there are certaine people appointed to watch the limites of his growth For when the water wareth to fiftéene brasses it is a signe that the next yeare shall bee fertile If if amounteth but to twelue that yeare shall be indifferent and it surpasse not nine brasses it presageth a great dearth and famine and if it shall happen to flow to the top all the countrey of Egypt is in danger to bee destroyed From Nylus are many ditches drawne along to the scattered villages in the plaines the water whereof entring in these narrow channels the people haue cisternes made of purpose wherein they receiue it and conserue the same till the next inundation At which time also they make great feastings and rare solemnities dauncing eating drinking singing tâ—uking of drummes sounding of trumpets and other oftentations of ioy There are infinite venemous creatures bred in this riuer as Crococodiles Scorpions vgly mis-shapen wormes and other monstrous things which annoy oft the inhabitants and also those who traâ—â—ck on the water This famous floud beginneth vnder the Equinoctiall line in Aethiopia whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Egypt and in a place of the Aethiopian Alpes called Catadupa the fall and roaring of this Nyle maketh the people deafe who dwell néere thereunto The common opinion is that Prester Iehan may impede the course of Nyle to runne through Egypt which bréedeth the cause wherefore the great Turke payeth
him a yearely Tribute least by a malignant hatred hee should turne the maine Channell another way and so bring Egypt to desolation This Kingdome produceth no Wines neither is garnished with Uine-yards but that which strangers doe make vse of are brought from Candy Cyprus and Greece In Cayro I stayed seuen dayes and embarked at Boullacque in a Boate and as I went downe the Riuer I saw these Townes Salomona Pharsone Foua an Abdan In these parts there is a stone called Aquiline which hath the vertue to deliuer a Woman from her paine in Childe-birth In all this way the greatest pleasure I had was to behold the â—â—re beautie of certaine Birds called by the Turkes Ellocâ—e whose Feathers being beautified with the diuersitie of â—â—rest colours yéeld a farre off to the beholder a delectable shew hauing also this property the néerer a man approcheth them the more they loose the beautie of their Feathers by reason of the feare they conceiue when they sée any man Upon the fourth day I landed at Rosetta and came ouer land with a company of Turkes to Alexandria Alexandria is the second Port in all Turkie It was of old a most renowned Citie and was built by Alexander the great but now is greatly decayed as may appeare by the huge ruines therein It hath two Hauens the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles which defend both it selfe and also Porto vechio The fieldes about the Towne are sandy which ingender an infectious aire especially in the moneth of August and is the reason why strangers fall into bloudy fluxes and other heauy sicknesses In my staying here I was aduised by a Christian Consull to keepe my stomacke hot to abstaine from eating of fruit and to liue soberly with a temperate diet The rule of which gouernement I stroue diligently to obserue so did I also in all my trauels prosecute the like course of a small dyet and was often too small against my will by the meanes whereof praised be God I fell neuer sicke till my returne into France Twelue dayes abode I in Alexandria and on the thirtéenth I embarked in a ship belonging to Ragusa in which I was kindly vsed and Christian like entertained The windes somewhat at the beginning fauouring vs wee weighed anchors and set forward to Sea In the time of our nauigation there died seuentéene of our Mariners and Passengers which bred no small griefe and feare to the rest being cast ouer-boord in a boundlesse graue to féede the fishes Fiue sundry times were we assailed by Cursaires of Tunneis Argeire and Biserta yet neuer captiuated or seazed vpon such was the pleasure of God and the resolute minds of the Ragusans which are a kinde of martiall people Fifty daies were we crossed with contrary winds tackling and boording in all this time we saw no land And as Ouid said in the like case Nil nisi pontus aer Our fresh water being spent we were constrained to beare into the I le of Malta where hauing giuen ground to the ankers I dis-barked and bade farewell to the Captaine and shippes company Malta was called Melita mentioned Acts 28.1.2 where the Uiper leaped on Pauls hand I saw also the Créeke wherein he was ship wracked This Iland may properly be tearmed the Fort of Christendome yet a barren place and of no great boundes for their Cornes and their Wines come dâ—â—ly â—â— Barkes from Sycilia But it yéeldeth good store of Pâ—â—â—â—granates Cittrons Cottons Orenges Lemmons â—â—â—es Mellons and other excellent Fruits The chiefe Citie is called Malta from which the Iland hath the name hauing a goodly hauen and fortified with an impregnable caâ—â—â— The Maltazes had their beginning at Acre in Palestâ—â— from thence to the Rhodes now exposed to this Rocky I le They are pertinacious Enemies to Infidels continually making warre and incursions against them to their power being strengthned also with many souldiers and their Captaines are surnamed Knights of Malta and so through a great part of Christendome it is a most honourable Order From thence I embarked in a Frigato and arriued at Syracusa in Sycilia Sycilia hath bene famous in all former Ages for by Diodorus Siculus it was cognominated the paragon of Iles by Titus Liuius the Garden of Italy The Greekes haue celebrated much commendation to this I le It also was anciently called the Grange of the Romanes and is neuer a whit decayed to this day It excelleth in all sorts of graine as cornes wheat wine sugar rice all kinds of fruit wholesome hearbs sweete hony excellent good silke and the best Corrall in the world is found heere growing vnder the water greene and tender but when arising aboue it becommeth red and hard The like whereof is said to bee found in the red Sea and gulfe of Persia. The chiefe Cities contained therein are these Polermo in which is the residence of the Uizeroy a Spaniard The second is Messina wherein standeth the statue of Iohn Duke of Austria for that notable victory God gaue him in the gulfe Lepanto against the Turkes The third is Syracusa lying in the South-east part toward Malta And the fourth is Trapundy which yeeldeth surpassing fine salt that is transported to Venice Italy Dalmatia and Greece made onely by heating of the Sunne being drawne into certaine pooles That sulphurean mount Gebello called of old Aetna burneth continually therein yéelding a terrible smoake and fire which by the nature of the thundring noyse and heate congealed in that Vulcans furnace it throweth from the horrible vents huge stones of naturall brimstone insomuch that no people may resort neere thereby I saw also there a fountaine that a dog being cast therein will presently die but being taken forth dead and slung into an other poole shall forth-with reuiue The I le is of circuit six hundred and large fifty miles It was sometimes vnder the subiection of the Gaules but now vnder subiection to King Phillip of Spaine It is the onely Girnelle of Malta and a great help to the Napolitan State The length of the Iland lyeth West and East and is distant from Napolis fifty leagues so much also from Sardinia and fortie leagues from Malta The Sycilians are very industrious much giuen to labour and Mechanicke Arts. Sycilia Candie and Cyprus are almost all of one quantity being the most commodious and noble Iles within the straights of the Mediterranean Sea From Polermo I embarked and sailed close aboard the Coast of Calabria and on the third day I arriued in Italy at a Towne neere vnto Ostia called Ciuitta-vechio where hauing thanked God for my safe returne to Christendome I vndertooke a new Land-voyage The speciall Cities I surueyed in Italy after my backe-comming are these Siena Florence Luka Pisa Genua Bullogna Parma Pauia Pâ—acenâ—a Mantua Milane and Torino The commendation of which is inuolued in these verses Iullustrat Saenas patriae facundiae linguae Splendida solertes nutrit Florentia ciues Libera Luca tremit ducibus vicina
the Turkes retired till morning and then were mindefull to giue vs the new rancounter of a second Alarme But as it pleased him who neuer faileth his to send downe an vnresistable tempest about the breake of day we escaped their furious designes and were enforced to seeke into the bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia both because of the violent weather and also for that a great leake was stricken into our ship In this fight there were of vs killed three Italians two Greekes and two Iewes with eleuen others deadly wounded and I also hurt in the right Arme with a small shot But what harme was done by vs amongst the Infidels wee were not assured thereof saue onely this we shot away their middle Mast and the hinder part of the Puppe For the Greekes are not expert Gunners neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them in respect they neuer boorded But howsoeuer it was being all disbarked on shore we gaue thankes to the Lord for our vnexpected safety and buried the dead Christians in a Greekish Church-yard and the Iewes were interred by the Sea-side This Bay of Lorgostolo is two miles in length being inuironed with two little Mountaines vpon the one of these two standeth a strong Fortresse which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe It was here that the Christian Gallies assembled in the yeare 1571 when they came to abate the rage of the great Turkes Armado which at that time lay in Peterasso in the firme land of Greece and had made conquest the yeare before of noble Cyprus from the Venetians This I le of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca and greatly renowmed because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Vlysses who excelled all other Greekes in eloquence and subtlety of wit Secondly by Strabo it was named Dulichi And thirdly by ancient Authours Cephalonia of Cephalo who was Captaine of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion The which Anfrittion hauing conquered the Iland gaue it in a gift to Cephalo The Land it selfe is full of Mountaines yet excéeding fertile yeelding Maluasie Muskadine Vino Leatico Raisins Oliues Figges Hony Sweet-water Pine Molbery Date and Chypre-trees and all others forts of fruits in aboundance The commodity of which redounds yearely to the Veneians for they are Signiors thereof Leauing this weather-beaten Carmoesalo laid vp to a full Sea I tooke purpose to trauell through the Iland In the first daies iourney I past by many fine Uillages and pleasant fields especially the vale Alessandro where the Greekes told me their Ancestors were vanquished in battell by the Macedonian Conquerour They also shewed me on the top of Mount Gargasso the ruines of that Temple which had beene of old dedicate to Iupiter And vpon the second day I hired two Fisher-men in a little Boat to carry mee ouer to Zante being twenty fiue miles distant The I le of Zante was called Zachinthus because so was called the son of Dardanus who raigned there And by some Hyria It hath a Citie of a great length bordering along the Sea side and on the top of a Hill aboue the Towne standeth a large and strong Fortresse not vnlike to the Castle of Milaine wherein the Prouiditore dwelleth who gouerneth the Iland This Citie is subiect yearely to fearefull Earth-quakes especially in the months of October and Nouember which oftentimes subuert their houses bringing harme and domage to them This I le produceth good store of Raisin de Corinth commonly called Currance Oliues Pomgranates Cytrones Orenges Lemmons Granadiers and Mellones The Ilanders are Greekes a kind of subtile people and great dissemblers but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice And if it were not for that great prouision of Corne which is daily transported from the firme Land of Greece to them the Inhabitants in a short time would famish Bidding farewell to Zante I embarked in a Frigato going to Peterasso in Morca which of old was called Peloponnesus And by the way in the Gulfe Lepanto which diuideth Etolia and Morca The chiefest Citie in Etolia is called Lepanto from thence Westward by the Sea-side is Delphos famous for the Oracle of Apollo wee sayled by the Iles Echinidi but by the Moderne Writers Curzolari where the Christians obtained the victorie against the Turkes for there did they fight after this manner In the yeare 1571 and the sixth of October Iohn Duke of Austria Generall for the Spanish Gallies Marco Antonio Colonna for Pope Pio Quinto and Sebastiano Venieco for the Uenetian Army conuened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia hauing of all 208 Gallies sixe Galleasses and fiue and twenty Frigotes After a most resolute deliberation these thrée Generals went with a valiant courage to encounter with the Turkish Armado on the Sunday morning the seuenth of October who in the end through the helpe of Christ obtained a glorious victorie In that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Gallies and there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty Shippes Gallies Galeots and other Uessels There was fiftéene thousand Turkes killed and foure thousand taken prisoners and twelue thousand Christians deliuered from their slauish bondage In all the Christians loosed but eleuen Gallies and fiue thousand slaine At their returne to Largostolo after this victorious battell the thrée Generals diuided innumerable spoyles to their well-deseruing Captaines and worthy Souldiers After my arriuall in Peterasso the Metropolitan of Peloponnesus I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles of the Ionean and Adriaticall Seas and aduised to trauaile in the firme Land of Greece with a Carauan of Greekes that was bound for Athens But before hee admitted mee into his company hee was wonderfull inquisitiue for what cause I trauelled alone and of what Nation I was To whom I soberly excused and discouered my selfe with modest answeares Which pacified his curiosity but not his auaritious minde for vnder a pretended protection he had of mee he extorted the most part of my money from my purse without any regard of conscience In the first second and third daies iournying wee had faire way hard lodging but good cheere and kinde entertaiment for our money But on the fourth day when we entred in the Hilly and barren Country of Arcadia where for a daies iourney we had no village but saw aboundance of Cattell without keepers In this Desart way I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles whose names I knew not because I had an ignorant guide But this I remember amongst these Rockes my belly was pinched and wearied was my body with the climing of fastidious Mountaines which bred no small griefe to my breast Yet notwithstanding of my distresse the remembrance of those sweete seasoned Songs of Arcadian Shepeheards which pregnant Poets haue so well penned did recreate my fatigated corps with many sugred suppositions These sterile bounds being past wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea called aunciently Sparta where that sometimes famous Citie of Lacedemon flourished but now
sacked and the lumps of ruines and memory onely remaines Marching thus we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the Sea-side and on the sixt day at night wee pitched our Tents in the disinhabited Uillages of Argo and Micene from the which vnhappy Helene was rauished Heere I had the ground to be a pillow and the world-wide-fields to bee a Chamber the whirling-windy-skies to bee a roofe to my Winter-blasted lodging and the humide vapours of cold Nocturna to accompany the vnwished-for-bed of my repose In all this Country I could find nothing to answere the famous relations giuen by ancient Authors of the excellency of that Land but the name onely the barbarousnesse of Turkes and Time hauing defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity No shew of honour no habitation of men in an honest fashion nor possessours of the Country in a Principalitie But rather prisoners shut vp in prisons or addicted slaues to cruell and tyrannicall Maisters So deformed is the state of that once worthy Realme and so miserable is the burthen of that afflicted people Which and the apparance of that permanency grieued my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune which alwaies plungeth the most renowmed Champions and their memory in the profoundest pit of all extremities and obliuion Departing from Argo vpon the seuenth day we arriued at Athens Athens is still inhabited standing in the East part of Peloponnesus neere to the Frontiers of Macedon It was first called Cecropia and lastly Athens of Minerua This Citie was the mother and wel-spring of all liberall Artes and Sciences but now altogether decayed The circuit of old Athens hath béen according to the fundamentall walles yet extant about sixe Italian miles but now of no great quantity nor many dwelling houses therein They haue aboundance of all things requisite for the sustenance of humane life of which I had no small proofe for these Athenians or Greekes exceeding kindly banquetted me foure dayes and furnisht me with necessary prouision for my voyage to Creta And also transported me by sea in a Brigandino fréely to Serigo being foure and fortie miles distant After my redounded thankes they hauing returned the contemplation on their curtesies brought me in remembrance how curious the old Athenians were to heare of forraigne newes and with what great regard and estimation they honored trauellers Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico it was anciently called Cytherea of Cythero the sonne of Phaenise and of Aristotle Porphyris or Schotera in respect of the fine marble that is got there It is of circuit 60 miles hauing but one Castle called Capsallo which is kept by a Venetian Captaine Here it is said that Venus did first inhabit and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple on the side of a mountaine yet extant A little more downward below this Temple of Venus are the reliques of that Palace wherein Menelaus did dwell who was King of Sparta and Lord of this I le The Greekes of the I le told mee there were wilde Asses there who had a stone in their heads which was a soueraigne remedy for the falling sicknesse and good to make a woman be quickly deliuered of her birth In the time of my abode at the village of Capsalo being a hauen for small barkes and situate below the Castle the Captaine of that same fortresse kild a Seminary Priest whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothel-house for the which sacrilegious murther the Gouernor of the I le deposed the Captaine and banished him causing a boat to be prepared to send him to Creta O if all the Priests which do commit incest adultery and fornication yea and worse Il peccato carnale contra natura were thus handled and seuerely rewarded what a sea of Sodomiticall irreligious bloud would ouer-flow the halfe of Europe to staine the spotted colour of that Romane Beast Truly and yet more these lasciuious Friers are the very Epicures or off-scourings of the earth for how oft haue I heard them say one to another Allegre allegre mio caro fratello chi ben mangia ben beue c. that is Be cheerful be cheerful deere brother he that eateth wel drinketh wel he that drinketh wel sleepeth wel he that sleepeth wel sinneth not he that sins not goeth straight through Purgatory to Paradice This is all the care of their liuing making their tongues to vtter what their hearts do thus prophanely thinke Ede bibe dormi post mortem nulla voluptas In the aforesaid boate I also embarked with the Captaine and sailed by the I le Serogota Leauing Capo di Spada on our left hand wee arriued at Carabusa with extreame fortune being fiercely pursued by thrée Turkish Galliots A Description of the Kingdome of Creta of his dangers and hard fortunes amongst the Iles Syclades of Thessaly Mecadonia the hill Pernassus Achaia Tenedos Troy Phrygia Colchos Sestos and Abidos the Gulfe of Hellespont and of his voyage to Constantinople THe I le of Candy was called Creta It is a most famous and ancient Kingdome By Moderne Writers it is Quéene of the Iles Mediterrene It had of old a hundred Cities whereof it had the name Hecatompolis but now onely foure Candia Canea Rhethimos and Schythia the rest are but Uillages and Bourges It is of length to wit from Capo Ermico in the West called by Plinie frons arietis and Capo Salomone in the East 240 miles large thréescore and of circuit 650 miles This is the chiefest dominion belonging to the Venetian republicke In euery one of these foure Cities there is a Gouernour and two Counsellors sent from Venice euery two yeares The Countrey is diuided into foure parts vnder the iurisdiction of the foure Cities for the better administration of iustice and they haue a General who commonly remaineth in the Citie of Candy like to a Uiceroy who deposeth or imposeth Magistrates Captaines Souldiers Officers and others whatsoeuer in the behalfe of Saint Marke or Duke of Venice The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard diuided into Companies Squadrons and Garisons in the Cities and Fortresses of the Iland which do extend to the number of twelue thousand Souldiers kept not only for the incursion of Turks but also for feare of the Cretans or inhabitants who would rather if they could render to the Turke then to liue vnder the subiection of Venice This I le produceth the best Maluosey Muscadine and Leaticke that supposedly are in the world It yeeldeth Orenges Lemmons Mellons Cytrons Grenadiers Adams Apples Raisins Oliues Dates Honey Sugar Vua di tre volte and all other kindes of fruit in aboundance But the most part of their Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago and Greece Thus much of the I le in generall and now in respect of my trauelling two times through the boundes of the whole Kingdom which was neuer before atchieued by any Traueller of Christendome I will as briefly as I can in