I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece with a Caravan of Greekes that were bound for Athens Peterasso is a large and spacious City full of Merchandise and greatly beautified with all kind of Câ—mmercers Their chiefe commodities are raw Silkes Cloth of gold and silver Silken grow-grams Rich-Damask Velvets of all kinds with Sattins and Taffaties and especially a store-house for graine The Venetians Ragusans and Marseillians have great trading with them Here I remember there was an English Factor lying whom the Subbassa or Governour of the Towne a Turke caused privately afterward upon malice to be poysoned even when I was wintring at Constantinople for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour Sir Thomas Glover my Patron and Protector was so highly incensed that he went hither himselfe to Peterasso with two Ianizaries and a Warrant sent with him from the Emperour who in the midst of the Market-place of Peterasso caused one of these two Ianizaries strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack and put to death divers others also that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consull And the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes for prosecuting so powerfully the sword of Justice and would not shrinke for no respect I being domesticke with him the selfe same time Pelopâ—nnesus now called Morea a Peninsula is all invironed with the sea save onely a narrow straight where it is tyed to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth which the Venetian then Lord of it fortified with five Castles and a strong wall from creeke to creek which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse and want of men Corinth and its gulfe lyeth at the East end of this Istmus and the Gulfe Lepanto on the West dividing Aetolia and Epyre The wall which traversed this strait of Morea was called Hexamite five miles long Truely it is one of the most famous destroit du terre en Europe Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. Miles and is at this day the most fertile and best inhabited Province of all the Empire of Greece The chiefe Rivers here are Arbona and Ropheos Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza neare which standeth the Towne of Epidaure wherein the Temple of Esculapius was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons It was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King An. Mun. 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia and Apia then Peloponesus from Pelops and now Moreah It is divided in five territories or petty Provinces Laconia Arcadia Argolis Miseniâ— Eliso the proper territory of Corinth Of which City it was said Hor. Let men take heed of Lais Corinths whore Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre It is said by Aeneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe that divers Kings went about to dig through this Istmus to make it an Iland namely King Demetrius Iulius Caesar Caius Caligâ—la Domitius Nero of all whom he doth note that they not onely failed of their purpose but that they came to violent and unnaturall deaths But before the aforesaid Caravan at Paterasso admitted me into his company hee was wonderfull inquisitive to know for what cause I travailed alone and of what Nation I was To whom I soberly excused and discovered my self with modest answers which pacified his curiosity but not his avaritious mind for under a pretended protection he had of me hee extorted the most part of my money from my purse without any regard of Conscience In the first second and third dayes journeying we had faire way hard lodging but good cheare and kind entertainment for our money which was the Country Laconia But on the fourth day when we entred in the hilly and barren Country of Arcadia where for a daies journey we had no Village but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was fought between Iulius Caesar and Pompey the great Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso on the West with Misenia on the North with Achaia inferiour and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea It was formerly termed Pelasgia and lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Iupiter and Calisto the people whereof did long imagine they were more ancient than the Moon This soyle of whom Arcas great Patron was In age the Moone excell'd in wit the Asse But because it is a tradition of more antiquity than credit I doe rather note it than affirme it And as men should dread the thunder-bolt when they see the lightning so ignorance and Idolatry placed amongst us and round about us may be a warning to the professours of the truth to take heed of the venome lest by their Arcadian antiquity surpassing the Moone they become novices to some new intended Massacre for as powder faild them but alas not poison so now with policy they prevaile in all things how long the holy one of Israel knoweth but certainly our sins are the causes of their domineering our careles drooping In this desart way I beheld many singular Monuments and ruinous Castles whose names I know not because I had an ignorant guide But this I remember amongst these Rocks my belly was pinched and wearied was my body with the climbing of fastidious mountaines which bred no small griefe to my breast Yet notwithstanding of my distresse the remembrance of those sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Shepheards which pregnant Poets have so well penned did recreate my fatigated corps with many sugred suppositions These sterile bounds being past wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea called anciently Sparta where that sometimes famous City of Lacedemon flourished but now sacked and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remains Marching thus we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the sea side and on the sixt day at night we pitched our Tents in the dis-inhabited villages of Argo and Micene from the which unhappy Hellen was ravished This cursed custome of base prostitution is become so frequent that the greater sort of her mercinary sexe following her footsteps have out-gone her in their loathsom journeys of libidinous wayes shee being of such an infinite and voluptuous crew the arch-Mistresse and ring-leader to destruction did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty as the inordinate patterne of all willing and licentious rapts I would thy beauty fairest of all Dames Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move Thy eyes from Greece to Illion cast flames And burnt that Trojan with adulterate love He captive like thy mercy came to prove And thou divorc'd was ravish'd with a toy He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove And
standeth the hill Olympus on which Hercules did institute the Olympian games which institution was of long time the Grecian Epoche from whence they reckoned their time Macedon is now called by the Turkes Calethiros signifying a mighty warlike Nation Macedonia containing Thessaly Achaia and Myrmidon lieth as a center to them having Achaia to the East Thessalia to the South Mirmidonia bordering with Aetolia to the West And a part of Hoemus whence it was called Haemonia and some of â—isia superior to the North it was also called Amathia from Amathus once King thereof and then Macedonia from the King Macedo The chiefe Cities are Andorista Andesso Sydra Sederaspen where the mines of gold and silver be which enrich the Turk so monthly receiving thence sometimes 18000 24000 30000 Ducats And Pellia where Alexander the Great was born Bajazet the first wonne this Country from the Constantinopolitans About this City of Salonica is the most fertile and populous Country in all Greece Greece of all Kingdomes in Europe hath been most famous and highly renowned for many noble respects yet most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune than any other who changing Gold for Brasse and loathing their owne Princes suffered many Tyrants to rule over them scourging their folly with their fall and curing a festered soare with a poysoned playster whence succeeded a dismall discord which beginning when the State of Greece was at the highest did not expire till it fell to the lowest ebbe sticking fast in the hands of a grievous desolation which former times if a man would retrospectively measure he might easily finde and not without admiration how the mighty power of the divine Majesty doth sway the moments of things and sorteth them in peremptory manner to strange and unlooked for effects making reason blinde policie astonished strength feeble valour dastardly turning love into hatred fear into fury boldnesse into trembling and in the circuit of one minute making the Conquerour a conquered person Greece now tearmed by the Turks Rum Ili the Roman Country was first called Helles next Grecia of Grecus who was once King thereof The Greekes of all other Gentiles were the first converted Christians and are wonderfull devout in their professed Religion The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging over their shoulders These that be the most sincere religious men abstain always from eating of flesh or fish contenting themselves with water herbs and bread They differ much in Ceremonies and principles of Religion from the Papists and the computation of their Kalender is as ours They have foure Patriarks who governe the affaires of their Church and also any civill dissentions which happen amongst them viz. one in Constantinople another in Antiochia the third in Alexandria and the fourth in Ierusalem It is not needfull for me to penetrate further in the condition of their estate because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise In a word they are wholy degenerate from their Ancestors in valour vertue and learning Universities they have none and civill behaviour is quite lost formerly in derision they tearmed all other Nations Barbarians A name now most fit for themselves being the greatest dissembling lyers inconstant and uncivill people of all other Christians in the world By the way I must give the Kings Kingdomes a caveat here concerning vagabonding Greeks and their counterfeit Testimonials True it is there is no such matter as these lying Rascals report unto you concerning their Fathers their Wives and Children taken Captives by the Turke O damnable invention How can the Turke prey upon his owne Subjects under whom they have as great Liberiy save only the use of Bels as we have under our Princes the tithe of their Male children being absolutely abrogated by Achmet this Amuraths Father and the halfe also of their Female Dowry at Marriges And farre lesse for Religion can they be banished or deprived of their Benefices as some false and dissembling fellowes under the Title of Bishops make you beleeve There being a free Liberty of Conscience for all kinds of Religion through all his Dominions as well for us free borne Frankes as for them and much more them the Greeks Armenians Syriacks Amoronits Copties Georgians or any other Orientall sort of Christians And therefore look to it that you be no more gulled golding them so fast as you have done lest for your paines you prove greater Asses than they do Knaves In Salonica I found a Germo bound for Tenedos in which I imbarked As we sayled along the Thessalonian 〈◊〉 I saw the two topped hill Pernassus which is of a wondrous height whose tops even kisse the Clâ—uds Mons hic cervicibus petit arduus astraduobus Nomine Pernassus super at que cacumine montes Through thickest clouds Pernassus bends his hight Whose double tops do kisse the Stars so bright Here it was said the nine Muses haunted but as for the Fountain Helicon I leave that to be searched and seen by the imagination of Poets for if it had beene objected to my sight like an insatiable Drunkard I should have drunk up the streams of Poësie to have enlarged my dry poeticall Sun scorch'd vein The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe and sterile especially the two tops the one whereof is dry and sandy signifying that Poets are alwayes poore and needie The other top is barren and rockie resembling the ingratitude of wretched and niggardly Patrons the vale between the tops is pleasant and profitable denoting the fruitfull and delightfull soile which painfull Poets the Muses Plow-men so industriously manure A little more Eastward as we fetcht up the coast of Achaia the Master of the Vessell shewed mee a ruinous Village and Castle where hee said the admired Citie of Thebes had been Whose former glory who can truly write of for as the earth when shee is disrobed of her budding and fructifying trees and of her amiable verdure which is her onely grace and garment royall is like a naked table wherein nothing is painted even so is Thebes and her past Triumph defac'd and bereft of her lusty and young Gentlemen as if the spring-tide had been taken from the yeare But what shall I say to know the cause of such like things they are so secret and mysticall being the most remote objects to which our understanding may aspire that wee may easily be deceived by disguised and pretended reasons whilst we seek for the true and essentiall causes for to report things that are done is easie because the eie and the tongue may dispatch it but to discover and unfold the causes of things requireth braine soul and the best progresse of Nature And as there is no evill without excuse nor no pretence without some colour of reason nor wiles wanting to malicious and wrangling wits Even so was there occasion sought for what from Athens and what from Greece whereby the peace and happinesse of Thebes might be dissolved and discord raised to
passage it is most undoubtedly a very theevish way for as we travelled in the night there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands our souldiers had their Harquebuzes ready to discharge all to affray the blood-thirsty Arabians who in holes caves and bushes lie obscured waiting for the advantage upon Travellers not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood-Karnes in Ireland This part of Arabia is called Petrosa because it is so rockie and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne It was anciently divided into regions Nabathia and Agara possessed first by the Hagarens discended of Abraham and Hagar It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whither Moses fled to and kept sheep and Mount Horeb is here whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise Divers of the Petrean Arabs converse and dwell amongst the Turks whom we tearm in respect of the other civill Arabs South from hence lieth Arabia Foelix bordering with the Indian Sea which is the most fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia abounding with Balsome Myrrhe and Frankincense Gold and Pearls especially about Medina the second City to Meccha The other Towns of note are Horan the chiefe Port of the South Ocean And Alteroch the only Towne where Christians are in greatest number in that Country Truly with much difficulty and greater danger passed we these Petrean journeys Here I remarked a singular quality and rare perfection in the carefull conduction of our Captaine who would when wee came to any dangerous place give the watâ—h-word of S. Ioanne meaning as much thereby that none should speak or whisper after that warning under the pain of a Harquebusado And no more wee durst unlesse hee had stretcht out his hand making us a signe when occasion served of liberty lest by our tumultuous noise in the night our enemies should have the foreknowledge of our comming and knowing also that the nature of a multitude bred all times confused effects without some severe punishment Himself rode still in the Vangard upon a lusty Gelding with two Ianizaries and forty Souldiers and the other foure Ianizaries and sixtie Souldiers were appointed to be the backgard for feare of sudden assaults Thus most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling not with insolencie but with prudent and magnanimous virility for my part I must needs say the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended over mee was such that whensoever I remember it I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his wel-deserving minde yet in the meane while my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endevours and notwithstanding of this high conceived regard yet in some frivolous things and for a small trifle he privatly wronged me which I misknew as unwilling knowing his disposition and that my life hung in his hands to be too forward too seek a redresse For often times an inconvenience is most convenient and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure and the violent enemy of age is griefe even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers who preferring avarice above honesty care onely for that part of a man which is his fortune whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show must end in the midst of a mans money as who would say such like were rather employed as their employments rewarded and therefore in unlawfull things they must suck the honey of their owne preposterous ends And thus it fared with him at the paying of my Tributes by the way for my head he caused mee oft to pay more then reason to the Moores Turks and civill Arabs receiving secretly back from them the overplus which my Turkish Servant perceiving made my Trenchman tell me that I might be before seene therein But such is the covetous nature of man that with his covenant hee cannot be contented unlesse hee seeke otherwise by all unlawfull meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine But the high respect I had of his other perfections made mee oversee and winke at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him and especially remembring my selfe to be under his protection I always endevoured my aymes so that in his sight I wonne extraordinary favour insomuch that in danger or securitie he would euer have me neere by him which I also craved and strove to observe the points of his will and my owne safety The obligation of my bounden duety taught me to no other end then ever to respect the benevolence of his his affection and to suppresse my own weake judgement which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit But to proceed in my Pilgrimage on the aforesaid third day in the after-noone we entred in Galilee passing along a faire Bridge that is over the River Iordain which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee This Bridge by the Armenians is called Iacobs Bridge and not farre hence they shewed me the place where Iacob wrestled with the Angell and where Esau met his brother Iacob to have killed him being upon the East side of the River Iordain is scarcely known by the name in this place but afterward I saw his greater growth ending in Sodome whereof in the owne place I shall more simply discourse between Iacobs Bridge and Ierusalem we had sixe dayes journey five whereof were more pleasant than profitable in regard of the great tributes I payd by the way for my head that at sundry places aâ—d into one day I have payd for my freedome in passage twelâ—e Chickens of gold amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay than a Pilgrime the admiration onely resting upon this how I was furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed Aprill the eighteene day according to the computation of the Roman Callender and by ours March the eight and twenty I entred in Gallilee a Province of Canaan this Country was first called Canaan from Canan the sonne of Cham secondly the Land of Promise because it was promised by the Lord to Abraham and his seed to possesse Thirdly the land of Israel of the Israelites so called from Iacob who was sirnamed Israel Fourthly Iudea from the Iews or the people of the Tribe of Iudah Fifthly Palestine quasi Philistim the land of the Philistims And now sixtly terra sancta the holy Land because herein was wrought many wonderfull miracles but especially the work of our salvation It is in length 180 and in breadth 60 miles yet of that salubrity of aire and fertility of soile flowing with Milke and Honey that before the comming of the Israelites it maintained thirty Kings with their people and afterward the two potent Kingdomes of Israel and Iudah in which David numbred one million and three hundred thousand fighting men besides them of the Tribe of Benjamin and Levi It is most certain that by the goodnesse of the climate and soile especially by the blessing of God
inferiour to the first and superiour to the second And although some Authors would have him but to repaire the second Temple yet it is most certaine he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory For this Herod the Ascolinite was an Edomite stranger or Idumean who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses and created King of Iewry by Octavius Augustus and knowing these people to be offended therewithall to procure their favour did build to them a third Temple This was it in which our Saviour and his Apostles did daily Preach and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August on which day likewise the first Temple was burnt by Nebuchadnezzar And lastly there is another great Temple builded in the same place by Sultan Selim Seliman reserved by Turkes and highly regarded for that respect they carry to Salomon neare the which or within whose Courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high wals hauing two entires in the inner Court standeth the Temple that is composed of five circling and large Rotundotes rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops The outward fabrick whereof we cannot see save on Mount Olivet which is over against the Citie and twice as high as Mount Sion These are all the monuments which in one day I saw within Ierusalem but as for Mount Calvary and the Holy Grave I saw them afterward which in their owne place shall be orderly touched As we were spending that day in these sights the Guardian had prepared one hundred souldiers sixty Hors-men and forty Foot-men to take with him the day following for his conduction to Iordan and the Mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted which is his usuall custome once every yeare between Palme Sunday and Easter returning again before Good-friday These places cannot be viewed save onely at that time neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the Souldiers unlesse hee give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters as a propine unto the Lievtenant being forty two shillings sterling and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge hee may stay there till their return which I would not wish him to doe if possibly hee may spare the money for the sight of Sodome and Iordans sake That same night after supper The Guardian demanded of us Travellers if wee would goe with him to see these memorable and singular things upon the former condition To whom wee answered in a generall consent wee would and so payed our moneys Early upon Tuesday morning all the Friers and Pilgrims being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I and two Mâ—les loaden with our provision of victuals we departed from the City about nine of the clocke in the forenoone keeping our faces South-east and leaving Bethphage and Byâ—hania on our left hand wee had pleasant travelling for seven miles but in the afternoon wee entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting where at last wee arrived at a standing Well and there refreshing our selves and the beasts wee reposed till two houâ—es within night After that the Captaine had cryed Caâ—e thâ—anga that is match away we set forward being well guaâ—ded round about with our Keepers because we entred into a dangerous way and a most desolate and â—abulous 〈◊〉 In all this deformed Countrey wee saw neither House nor Village for it is altogether desartuous and inhabited onely by wild Beasts and naked Arabians Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah by seven miles for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it before wee could arrive at that place of Iordan which wee intended we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through Whereupon they all dismounted wrestling and wading above the middle part of their bodies and sometimes falling in over their heads they were in great danger of perishing although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through on my feete relieving also divers times some of these Friers and Pilgrimes that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand but not for lacke of Wine Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine the night being darke the unwelcomed Arabs environed and invaded us with a storme of Arrows which they sent from the tops of little hard hils whereupon they stood for knowing the advantage of the ground they took opportunity to give the more fearfull assaults yet they prevailed nothing although they wounded some of our souldiers such was the resolute Courage of our valorous Defendants True it is that in all my travailes I was never so sore fatigated nor more fearefully indangered as I was that night A little after midnight these Savages leaving us and we leaving our troublesome way wee accoasted the Lake of Sodome and marched along the marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Iordan This Lake is caled Lacus Asphaltites it yieldeth a kinde of 〈◊〉 named Bitumen Asphaltum the which bituminous savour no living thing can indure And now Mare mortuum a Sea because it is salt and mortuum or dead for that no living thing breeds therein and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea because of it selfe it is unmoveable such is the Leprosie and stability of the water It is also called so because if a Bird flie over it she presently falleth downe therein dead And as Salomon reporteth of it Wisdome 10. 7. it smoketh continually from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours which deforme the fields lying about for certaine miles as it were blasted scorched and made utterly barren this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Iordan For this River falling into it and there ending his course the two contrary natures cannot agree the one being a filthy puddle and the other a pure water as I shall more approbably record This Lake is foure score miles in length and according to its intervalling Circuite sometimes two three foure or five miles in breadth yet the body thereof bending directly South-west keepeth a glassie course till it salute the austere conspicuosity of the fabulous and stony Desarts being compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South On the North with the sandy Hils of the Wildernesse of Iudea on the West with the steepy Mountaines of Arabia deserta and on the East with the plaine of Iericho How commeth it to passe therefore that the fresh running flood of Iordan falling evermore into this bounded Sea that the Lake it selfe never diminisheth nor increaseth but alwayes standeth at one fulnesse neither hath it any issuing forth nor reboundeth backwards on the plaine of Iericho which is one of the greatest Wonders in the World Wherefore as I have said it must needs either exhale to the Clouds or otherwise runne downe to Hell for if it ranne under the Rockes and so burst in the Desarts it would soone
denied acceptance in England had turned Turke and built there a faire Palace beautifyed with rich Marble and Alaâ—aster stones With whom I found Domestick some fifteene circumcised English Runnagats whose lives and Countenances were both alike even as desperate as disdainfull Yet old Ward their Master was placable and joyned me safely with a passing Land conduct to Algiere yea and diverse times in my ten dayes staying there I dyned and supped with him but lay aboord in the French ship At last having obtained my pasport from the Bassaw there and surety taken for my life and monyes I imbraced the Land way with his Conduct consisting of forty Moores and a hundred Camels loaden with Silkes Dimmeties and other Commodities traversing the afore-said Regions of Abirouh and Arradetz In all which way lying nightly in a Tent I found a pleasant and fruitfull Country abounding in Wine Rye Barly Wheate and all kinde of fruites with innumerable villages and so infinitely peopled that it made me wish there had beene none at all otherwise that they had beene Christians and so more civill The greatest enemy this journey designed mee was the Sunne whose exceeding heate was intollerable to indure being in September Anno 1615. But for provision of Water Wine and Victuals wee had abundance Vpon the seaventh day of our course wee entred in the Countrey of Tremizen formerly Mauritâ—nea Caesarea This Kingdome hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana containing the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or desertuous Numidia On the East with the Rivers of Mulvia and Amphlaga the Marches of Arradetz And on the North the Sea Mediterren opposite to Sardinia The countrey is in length from the East to the West some twenty five of their courses and of our miles above three hundred and of breadth between the Sea and Gotulia no more then thirty English miles This copious Kingdome in all things hath beene oft and ever molested with the Numidian Sarazens or bastard Arabs who falling down from the Mountaines do runne their carriere at randome upon the ground-toyled Moones to satisfie their needy and greedy desires Tremizen or Telensim had of old foure Provinces but now onely two t is own Territory and that of Algier whose capitall Towne being too cognominated Tremizen contayning once eighteene thousand fire houses But in regard of Iosephus King of Fez who besieged it seaven yeares over-mastering it and then subdued by Charles the fifth and likewise the Turkes investion of it and finally because of the long wars twixt the Seriff or King there and the Turke it is become a great deale lesser and almost disinhabited and the most part of that Countrey subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algier At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis having arrived at Algier and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect I stayed in a Spaniards house turned Runnagate who kept a roguish Tavern and a ground planked Hospitall In all this way of twelvescore miles I payed no Tribute neither had I any eminent perrill the Countrey being peaceable though the people uncivill This Towne of Algier was formerly under subjecton to the Kingdome of Tremizen but because of insupportable charges it revolted and rendered to the King of Arradetz or Bugia Afterwards it was under the King of Spaine from whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515 being now under the Turke and is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height and standeth triangular The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified with earth back'd walles Bulwarkes and artilley but the semisquared land-walles are of small importance and easily to be surprised and three miles in circuite containing some thirty thousand persons There is a Turkish Bashaw here and a strong Garrison of sixe thousand Ianizaries with two hundred Cursary ships or Pirats who ever preying upon Christian Commercers by their continuall spoiles and prises have made the divelish Town wonderfull rich and become an inveterate enemy of Christendome being now a Kingdome of it selfe and in length from East to West betweene the Townes Terracot and Gâ—argola some sixe score miles It had a long reaching mould in the Sea that maketh a safe harbor for their ships against Northerly windes which on that Coast are deadly dangerous At this time the greatest part of the Towne were fled to the mountaines to shun the parching heate that beateth violently on the Plaines and Sea-shoare so doe all the maritine Townes of Barbary the like every Sommer for the moneths Iuly August and September which then being left halfe naked of defence it were the onely time for Christians to invade or surprise their Towns I found here abundance of slaves most of them Spaniards whom they daily constrain within Towne to beare all manner of burdens here and there and without Towne to drudge in the fields amongst their Vines and Cornes and other toyling labours abusing them still with buffets and bastinadoes as their perverstnesse listeth Neither durst I leave my lodging unlesse I had three or foure Christian slaves to guide me and gard me too from scelerate vulgars who beare no respect to any stranger nor free Franck. Here I remarked a wonderfull policy in the Turkish state concerning these theftuous and rapinous Townes of Barbary who as they are ordained ever to plague and prey upon the Spaniard yet under that colour they licenciate them to make havock seaze upon all other Christian ships goods and persons as they please the French nation excepted And so they doe notwithstanding of our severall Ambassadours lying at Constantinople who rather stay there as Mungrells than absolute Ambassadours for why should Christian Princes mediate for peace and commerce with the Turke when theirs with his subiects the Barbarian Mooâ—es have no safety they being obedient to his lawes and over-ruled by Bassawes as well as these are of Asia and Easterne Europe from which I gather as from all other like examples that there is a more sublime over-mastering policy subtilty and provident foresight in meere naturall men as Turkes be then in our best Grandeurs for all their Sciences schoole studies can either perceive or perform farre lesse prosecute To which avowed dangers if any small ship ruled by rash fellowes should adventure within the straits as too many English doe being unable and unprovided for defence and so are taken and captivated and afterward redeemed by Contributions over the Land I justly affirme it they deserve rather to be punished and remaine therein punishment then any reliefe or redemption to be wrought for them who will nakedly hazard themselves in knowne perrils without Ordonance munition and a burdenable ship But reverting to my purpose the marine Provinces which lye between Aegypt and Sewty over against Gibelterre being the Straits are these Cerene Barca Marmorica Ezzeba the Trypolian Jurisdiction the Kingdomes of Tunneis Abiroh Arradetz Tremizen Algier and a part of Fez extending to two thousand and three hundred maritine
was more then ordinary rejoycing in an extraordinary sorrow of delights But now to leave the contemplation of attempts to come to the reall adventure After two voyages I made to the Orcadian and Zetlandian Isles in the stripling age of mine adolescency and there after surveighing all Germany Bohemia Helvetia and the Low Countries from end to end I visited Paris where I remaiâ—ed ten months Divers contestations have I had about the equality of London and Paris in quantity and quality But having a more serious subject in hand than this paralell I conclude thus the infinite shipping and commodious navigation of London besides their universall commerse is more of value than the better halfe of Paris compare you the quantity for there is the quality of the argument Paris I confesse is populous a masse of poore People for lacques and pages a nest of rogues a tumultuous place a noctuall denne of Theeves and a confused multitude where contrariwise London is adorned with many grave prudent and provident Senators civill well-taught and courteous people and absolutely the best governed City on the whole face of the earth as well by night as by day and nothing inferiour in quantity to it FRom Paris in the the yeare of God 1609. March 7 I set forward being brought three Leagues on my way with a number of my Country gallants young Aiton young Hutonhall and specially Monsieur Hay of Smith-field now Esquire of his Majesties body with divers other Gentlemen where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies and farewell bid on both sides I bequeathed my proceedings to God my body to turmoyling paines my hand to the burthen and my feete to the hard bruising way And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France the Savoyean Ligurian Alpes sith it is manifested unto many in this Iland both by sight and report I would shunne so farre as possible I can all prolixity of knowne and therefore unnecessary discourse Although I have a large reason having cross'd the Alpes at sixe severall parts onely in the one place I meane to comment upon Italy in generall Upon the 40. day after my departure from Paris I arrived at Rome of the which I will memorize some rarest things and so proceed This City of Rome now extant is not that old Rome which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with the blood of his brother Rhemus who disdainefully leaped over the new wals and was once the mistris of the Universe for her Triumphs and Antiquities but is now onely the Carkasse of the other of which she retaineth nothing but her ruines and the cause of them her sinnes Rome which Romulus first founded contained these two mountaines Capitolino and Palatino with the valley lying betweene both Hills having three Ports the first was called Trigonio because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount Palatin The second Pandonio because it was alwayes open and for the commodity of the passage it was called the free Port The third was called Carmentale of Carmenta the mother of Euander who dwelt there It was also named scelorata or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines put cruelly to death issuing thereat Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height the Gothes a base and unknowne people displaying their banner against this glorious and imperiall City in the end razed and subverted their Pallaces equalizing the walles with the ground After the which detriment and overthrow the late subdued Romans recovering their ruinous habitation were inforced to withdraw the situation of the Towne a little more downe-ward in Campus Martius close by the bankes of Tibris and transported the stones of these ransacked buildings to re-edifie their new dwelling places Hic ubi nunc Roma est olim fuit ardua silva Tantaque res paucis pascua bobus erat Where Rome now stands was sometimes desart woods And soyle to feede some fewâ— found bestiall goods And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe the mother and nurse of worthy Senators the miracle of Nations the Epitome of the world the Kingdome of Mars and the seven headed soveraigne of many Provinces The seven hills whereon she stood and now partly somewhere stands for they are all contained within the vast bounds of the old walls which as yet environeth the towne are these Palatino Capitolina Viminale Aventino Esquiline Coelio and Quiraneno Which certainly doe demonstrate the whoore of Babylon sitting on the Beast with seven Heads and cannot be understood but of Rome being builded on these seven Hills having a correspondence to seven Kings who reigned there and also acknowledging seven severall Rulers Kings Consuls Decemviri Tribunes Dictators Emperours and now Popes During the felicity of the Romans this City was never taken but by the Gauls which being recovered they made a Law that Priests being otherwise exempted should goe to Warre if ever the Gauls came againe with whom they fought not for dominion but for their owne preservation But since it became pontificall it hath beene made a prey to all Barbarous Nations and never was besieged by any that tooke it not The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome is not unlike to Iordan and Tagus yet not so bigge as either of them being all three of a troubled and muddy colour But it is exceeding outragious often menaceth to drowne the whole Mansions as grieving to grace the Walls of such a wicked and imperious a place who having lost her former preheminent glory and domination over the world would not alledge and ascribe a second prerogative over the soules of men the Heavens the Hells the Silver-coyned Purgatory the deposing and imposing of Kings the former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword the latter by presumption Avarice insinuation and absurd lies I remember of a pretty observation of Saint Katharine of Siena who being stricken in devotion went to venerate Rome accompanyed with a goodly traine and having visited all the Monuments supposed Holy places and Religious relicks there for the space of five dayes At last she came to take view of the Popes Palace where having spent a whole day strictly remarking the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants She saw nothiâ—g but abhomination prophannation and irreligious living and worser than in Rome it selfe Whereupon suddenly the next day she departed for Siena being an hundreth miles distant pittifully bewayling her journey and the miserable livers she saw in Rome Protesting alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death that the Wind never came from the East blowing Westward to Siena but shee thought the filthinesse of the Popes Pallace and the beastlinesse of Rome ever stunke in her nose This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extravagant disgorgements at that time when Pope Clement the eighth was Crowned Duke of Ferrara auno 1589. and that same night hee returned to Rome Tyber waxed
Tarentines The second Plantation was by Evander and certaine other Arcadians who being banished from their native dwellings seated themselves here Thirdly by the Trojanes under the conduct of Aeneas who forsaking the delicious lives of the effeminate Affricans arrived here were kindly entertained by King Latinus whose daughter Lavinea Aeneas married So thus from the Trojans the Italians bragge of their discent and so likewise boast divers other nations to have discended from that Dardan stocke as glorying in such a famous pedigree The length of Italy is nine hundred Italian miles though some allot a thousand it is false for I have trod foure severall times from end to end of it on the soles of my feete even from Vallese the first Towne in Piemont discending mount Synais from La Croix South-ward which secludeth Savoy and to Capo Biancho in Calabria hemb'd in with the gulfe Tarento on the one side and the Faro of Messina on the other it being the furthest promontore of Italy So in a false description some blind Geographers through base ignorance make England longer then Scotland in their Mappes when Scotland by the best judgements and mine owne better experience is a hundred and twenty miles longer than England It is a deocular errour which I could wish to be reformed as in the conclusion of this worke I shall more credibly make cleere The breadth of Italy at the roote and beginning thereof bending along the Alpes from the Adriaticke coast to the riviera di Genoa or Ligurian shore is but 240. Italian miles growing narrower and narrower till it shut out it selfe in two hornes Calabria and Terra di Ottranto The breadth of which or either extendeth not above foureteene English miles from sea to sea the gulfe Tarento which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelfes deviding the two hornes On the North side of Terra di Otranto lyeth Apulta bordering with Mare superum a very fruitfull soile for cornes West-ward thence boundeth terra di lavoro or proprium regnum Napolitanum These foure territories make up the intire Kingdome of Naples The chiefe Cities of which are Naples Iapua and Salerno in terra di Lavoro In Calabria are Couzensa the chiefe seate of the President or Subvicegerent Rhegio Allauria and Montecilione In terra di Ottranto or Otranto the which Towne being taken by Mahomet the great Anno 1481. involved all Italy in such a feare that for a whole yeare and till the expulsion of the Turkes Rome was quite forsaken the next are Lucia and Brunducium beautified with a famous haven And in Apulia are Manferdo Arpino where Tully was borne Venusio whence Horace had his birth and Canno famous for the victory of Haniball against the Romans The Church-land beginnes beyond Rome eighty miles at Terracina being just opposite to Gayetta the West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdome neare to Mount Circello and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di Roma or the Churches patrimony imbracing both seas till it runne to Ponto Centino in Tuscana which divideth the precincts of Re di Coffine Aquacupadente the last frontiers of the great Duke and Popes land All which bounds to Terracina and in the way of Venice from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma or Latium and thence it reacheth along North-west by the Venetian gulfe to the uttermost bounds of the Dutchy of Ferara being thirty miles from Venice Extending in length to three hundred fifty miles whose breadth is narrow and where it joyneth with both Seas it is but sixty miles The Church-land is divided in foure territories Compagna di Roma or old Latium Rome Viterbo Narni Tarni Viletri Montefiascone and Civitavecchia being the chiefe Cities Next the Country of Ombria or Ombrosa lying betweene Rome and Loretta the chiefe Cities are Spaleto from whence it is reckoned a Dutchy Perugia a Sacerdotall University Fulino and Asisi where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was borne At the which Asisi I saw the place as they say where the Angell appeared to his mother telling her that shee should conceave and beare a Sonne should be the Champion of Iesus hard by they shewed me the Crib or stall where he was borne with many other foolish lyes both sinfull and abhominable every way representing his imaginary life like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our blessed Saviour The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side Ancona being principall the other Cities are Asculi Marcerata Tolentino Reginati Aguby and Parasiticall Loretta The fourth is Romania lying along toward Ferrara betweene the Sea and the Hills Appenine This Ecclesiasticke dowry of Romania is disjoyned from Marca di Ancona by the Duke of Vrbins lands which division by the sea side is thirty miles in length containing Pesaro Fanno and Sinigalia all Sea-port Townes the other of this Dutchy are Vrbino and Castel-durante The chiefe Towne in Romania is Ravenna which for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy Here the Popes Legate remaineth the other bee Rimini Fereola Bullogna and Ferrara and this much for the Popes foure Ecclesiasticke territories Tuscana or Aetruria lying South from the middle of this Church-land is 100. miles in length and as much in breadth I meane of that belonging to the great Duke Which hereditary boundes was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando Father to late Cosmus and brother to Mary of Medicis the French Queene Mother now living Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa and Siena The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction is the little common-wealth of Luca The chiefe City is Florence whose streetes are divided by the River Arno the other of this principality are Pisa Siena Pistoia Empoli Ligorne and Arretzo From Tuscany to the West and North-west lyeth Lumbardy intituled the garden of the World which is now divided besides the Venetian territory of which I will speake in the owne place in foure principalities Milaine Mantua Parma and Modena The other Cities be Cremona Pavia Lodi Pleasance Rhegio Brisiles Palestra Navarro and Allessandria di Paglia This Province is mainely watered through the middle with stately Po in which Phaeton was drenched when hee came tumbling downe from Heaven The Rivers Ladishe Montanello Della Guarda and other forcible streames supporting the shoulders of it West from Lumbardy lyeth Piemont between it and Savoy The City whereof and wherein the Savoyan Duke hath his Residence is Torino situate on Po. The other Aste Verseilles and Cowie South from Piemont and Lumbardy lyeth the Riviera of Genoa along the Mediterrean Sea the territory of which is narrow but above one hundred miles in length All which is exceeding rocky and mountanous yet producing good store of Orenges Lemmons Figges and Ches-nuts whereon the Mountaineri onely live being either rosâ—ed or baked in bread the chiefe Cities of this Genewesen Liguria are Genoa and Savona Italy lying in forme of a legge is on
the World Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten dayes in viewing and reviewing this City and circumâ—acent Isles and my purpose reaching for Greece and Asia as hee was to recrosse the snowy Alpes my muse remembreth our sad departure Now friendly Arthur leâ—t me courts the maine Of pleasant Lombardy by Trent againe Beares through the Alpes in his 〈◊〉 wayes And past Bavaria where Danubâ—o strayes He fell on Rhyne and downe these curlings came Then ship'd for Albion neere to Roâ—terdame And coasting Isâ—s view'd that royall court Where once Appollo did in glory sport Fraught with Ambrosian Necâ—ar crown'd his dayes Oâ— Pindus tops to have Mecenas praise This light obumbrat Arthur courts the North And serv'd a noble Earle of ancient worth Full eighteene yeares till death that darts our woe First smote his Lord and then his Countesse so Now they are fled and he is left alone Till heavens provide his hopes some happy one Which if to his desert such fortune came A Princely service might his merit clayme Where wishing both his fate and worth to be I 'le Venice leave and visite Lombardy In the time of my staying here I went forth to Lombardy and visited the famous Cities of Padua Verona and Ferrarâ— The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses Extollit Paduam juris studiam medicinae Verona humanae dâ—t singula commoda vitae 〈◊〉 loculos ferrarea â—errea 〈◊〉 In Pâ—dua I stayed three moneths learning the Italian tongue and found there a Country Gentlemen of mine Doctor Iohn Wedâ—erburne a learned Mathematician 〈◊〉 now dwelling in Moravia who taught mee well in the Language and in all other respects exceeding friendly to me Padua is the most melancholy City in Europe the cause onely arising of the narrow passage of the open streetes and of the long Galleries and darke-ranges of pillars that goe alwhere on every hand of you through the whole streetes of the Towne The Schollers here in the night commit many 〈◊〉 against their privat adversaries and too often executed upon the stranger and innocent and all with 〈…〉 for beastly Sodomy it is as rife heere as in Rome Naples Florence 〈…〉 The Second Part. NOw step I o're the gulfe to th' Istrian shâ—are Dalmatia Slavonia Ilyria more Valona Albana Epyre in Greece And Morea fat where Iason hurt his fleece The Adriaticke and Ionean Iles And Lesinaes great monster Athens styles With Lacedemon sackt and Sparta rent From ancient worth Arcadia poore and shent Our gulfe Lepanto the Aetolian hight And all these coasts till Candy come in sight AFter my returne from Padâ—a to Venice 24. dayeâ— attendance devasted there for passage â— imbarked in a Carâ—â—esalo being bound to Zara Novo in Dalmatia scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice but we incountred with a deadly storme at Serocâ—e Lenante The Master had no compasse to direct his course neither was he expert in Navigation because they use commonly either on the South or North sides of the Gulfe to hoise up sayles at night and againe breake of day they have full sight of land taking their directions from the topped hillâ— of the maine continent The tempest increasing and the winds contrary we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria Istria was called Giapidia according to Pliny Cato affirmeth it was called Istria of one Isirâ— but by the moderne Writers L'ultima Regione di Italia By 〈◊〉 it is said to bee of length 100. miles and forty large but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large Istria hath on the South Friuli and the Sea on the West Stria on the North Carniola on the East the Gulfe Carnarâ— or Quevâ—ro It is thought the Istrians were first a people of Colchis in Natolia who by King Aetâ—s being sent to persue Iason and the Argonaâ—ts who had stolne the golden Fleece and his daughter Medea either because of the long journey or feare of the Kings anger durst not returne and so remained in this Country where they enjoyed a long freedom til by many incursions of piracy still molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes Anno 938. afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo about the yeare 1200. That part which bordereth with the Sea belongeth to the Venetians but the rest within land holds of the Emperour and the Arch Duke of Austria The Country it selfe aboundeth in Cornes wines and all kinds of fruites necessary for humane life Neere to this Haven wherein wee lay expecting roome windes I saw the ruines of old Iustinopoli so called of Iustinian the Emperour who builded it upon an Iland of eight miles length and three acres broad and to passe betwixt the City and the firme land there was seven bridges made It was anciently strong but now altogether decayed the principall Cities in Istria at this day are these Parenzo Humagâ— Pola Rouigo The windes favouring us we weighed Anchors and sayled by the Iles Brioni so much esteemed for the fine stones they produce called Istriennes which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces About mid-day I saw Mount di Caldaro on the foote of which the ancient City of Pola is situated having a harbour wherein small ships may lye True it is this Port is not much frequenâ—ed in respect of a contagious Lake neere to it which inâ—â—cteth the Ayre with a filthy exhalation I saw hard by this place the ruines of the Castle di Oriando the Arke Iriumphant and the reliques of a great Amphitheatre This Pola was called by Pliny Iulia pietas and it standeth in the South-east part of Istria Continuing our course we â—assed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro This gulfe or bay of Carnaro runneth in North and by 〈◊〉 50. miles within land at the narrow entry whereof it hath a part of Istria on the West and Dalmatia on the East The Venetians use to keepe alwaies certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay on the Dalmatian side to intercept the cursary of the Scoks In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna Gradisca and Novagard the chiefe Cities of Croatia the people which inhabit these Townes and the adjoyning Country are called Scoks a kind of Dalmatians being of a robust nature couragious and desperate Their weapons are broad two handed swords long Skenes carrying Targets at their girdles and long Gunnes in their hands they are marvellous swift on foote and daily annoy by land their neighbouring Turkes with inrodes fetching away great spoyles and booties of Cornes Cattell and Horses and by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines did ever and often vexe the Venetian commerce in their owne domesticke waters the great losses which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to time received and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes in their Trafficking with Venice for whom the Venetians are bound by former Articles of peace to keepe harmelesse within their owne
forth for the sword to glut upon the bodyes of her Ancients were made as pavements to walk upon her Matrons became a prey and prize to every Ravisher and her Priests and Sacrificers were slaine before the gates of their Temples This City was the Mother and Well-spring of all Liberall Arts and Sciences and the great Cisterne of Europe whence flowed so many Conduit pipes of learning all where but now altogether decayed The circuit of old Athens hath beene according to the fundimentall walls yet extant about sixe Italian miles but now of no great quantity nor many dwelling houses therein being within two hundred fire-houses having a Castle which formerly was the Temple of Minerva They have abundance of all things requisite for the sustenance of humane life of which I had no small proofe for these Athenians or Greeks exceeding kindly banqueted mee foure dayes and furnisht me with necessary provision for my voyage to Creta And also transported mee by Sea in a Brigandino freely and on their owne charges to Serigo being 44. miles distant After my redounded thankes they having returned the contemplation of their courtesies brought me in remembrance how curious the old Athenians were to heare of forreigne newes and with what great regard and estimation they honoured travellers of which as yet they are no wayes defective Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico It was anciently called Cytherea of Cythero the Sonne of Phaenise And of Aristotle Porphyris or Schotera in respect of the fine Marble that is got there It is of circuit threescore miles having but one Castle called Capsallo which is kept by a Venetian Captaine here it is said that Venus did first inhabit and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple on the side of a Mountaine yet extant A little more downward below this old adored Temple of Venus are the Reliques of that Palace wherein Menelaus did dwell who was King of Sparta Lord of this I le The Greeks of the I le told me there were wild Asses there who had a stone in their heads which was a soveraigne remedy for the Falling sicknesse and good to make a woman be quickly delivered of her birth I made afterward deeper enquiry for it to have either seene or bought it but for my life I could never attaine to any perfect knowledge thereof In the time of my abode at the Village of Capsalo being a haven for small Barks and scituate below the Castle the Captaine of that same Fortresse kild a Seminary Priest whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothell-house for the which sacrilegious murther the Governour of the Isle deposed the Captaine and banished him causing a Boate to be prepared to send him to Creta O! if all the Priests which doe commit Incest Adultery and Fornication yea and worse Il peccato caâ—nale contra natura were thus handled and severely rewarded what a sea of Sodomiticall irreligious blood would overflow the halfe of Europe to staine the spotted colour of that Roman beast Truely and yet more these lascivious Friars are the very Epicures or off-scourings of the earth for how oft have I heard them say one to another Allegre allegre mio caro fratello chi ben mangia ben beve c. That is Be cheerefull be cheerefull deare brother he that eateth well drinketh well hee that drinketh well sleepeth well he that sleepeth well sinneth not and he that sinneth not goeth straight through Purgatory to Paradise This is all the care of their living making their tongues to utter what their harts do prophanely think Ede bibe dormi post mortem nulla volupt as and as it is well observed of this Monachall and licentious life Non male sunt Monachis grato indita nomina patrum Cum numerent natos hic ubique suos Injustly no! Monkes be cal'd Fathers Why Their Bastards swarme as thicke as starres in sky In the aforesaid Boat I also imbarked with the Captain and sailed by the little Isoletta of Serigota Leaving Capo di Spada on the left hand wee arrived at Carabusa with extreame fortune being fiercely pursued by three Turkish Galleots Betweene Serigo and Carabusa wee had sevenscore and twelve Miles of dangerous and cumbustious seas The Third Part. Now Creta comes the Mediterren Queen To my sought view where golden Ida's seen Cut with the Labyrinth of th' old Minatoure Thence trac'd I all the Syclads fifty foure With Nigropont and Thessaly amaine Macedon Pernassus the Achaian plaine Tenedos and Troy long Phrygia fixt Sestos Abidos Adrianopole vext Colchis falne Thebes Hellespont and more Constantinople earths best soveraigne glore The Euxine sea and Pompeys Pillar prest In Paru then I le take my winters rest THE I le of Candy formerly called Creta hath to the North the Aegean sea to the West the sea Ionian to the South the Libique Sea and to the East the Carpathian Sea It lyeth mid-way twixt Achaia in Greece and Cyrene in Affrick not being distant from the one nor from the other above two dayes sailing It is a most famous and ancient Kingdome By moderne writers it is called Queene of the Iles Medeterrene It had of old an hundred Cities whereof it had the name Hecatompolis but now onely foure Candia Canea Rethimos and Scithia the rest are but Villages and Bourges It is of length to wit from Capo Ermico in the West called by Pliny Frons arietis and Capo Salomone in the East two hundred and forty Miles large threescore and of circuit sixe hundred and fifty miles This is the chiefe Dominion belonging to the Venetian Reipublicke In every one of these foure Cities there is a Governour and two Counsellors sent from Venice every two years The Country is divided into foure parts under the jurisdiction of the foure Cities for the better administration of Justice and they have a General who commonly remaineth in the City of Candi like to a Vice-roy who deposeth or imposeth Magistrates Captaines Souldiers Officers and others whatsoever in the behalfe of St. Mark or Duke of Venice The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard divided in Companies Squadrons and Garrisons in the Cities and Fortresses of the Iland which doe extend to the number of 12000. Souldiers kept not onely for the incursions of Turks but also for feare of the Cretes or inhabitants who would rather if they could render to the Turke than to live under the subjection of Venice thinking thereby to have more liberty and lesse taxed under the Infidell than now they are under the Christian. This Isle produceth the best Maluasie Muskadine and Leaticke wines that are in the whole Universe It yeeldeth Orenges Lemmons Mellons Cytrons Grenadiers Adams Apples Raisins Oilves Dates Hony Sugar Vva tri de volte and all other kinds of fruit in abundance But the most part of the Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago and Greece The chiefe Rivers are Cataracho Melipotomos Escasino being all of them shallow
and discommodious for shipping in respect of their short courses and rocky passages And the principall Cities of old were Gnassus where Minos kept his Court 2. Cortina 3. Aphra and Cydonia This Country was by Marcellus made subject to the Romans It was afterward given by Baldwin Earle of Flanders the first Latin Emperour of Constantinople to Boniface of Montferrat who sold it An. 1194. to the Venetians Thus much of the I le in generall and now in respect of my travailing two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdome which was never before attchieved by any Travailer in Christendome I will as briefely as I can in particular relate a few of those miseries endured by me in this land with the nature and quality of the people This aforesaid Carabusa is the principall Fortresse of Creta being of it selfe invincible and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan which standeth at the mouth of Clyd upon which River the ancient City of Lanarke is scituated for this Fort is environed with a Rock higher than the walls and joyneth close with Capo Ermico having learned of the theevish way I had to Canea I advised to put my money in exchange which the Captaine of that strength very courteously performed and would also have disswaded me from my purpose but I by no perswasion of him would stay From thence departing all alone scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine with three Greeke murthering Renegadoes and an Italian Bandido who laying hands on me beat me most cruelly robed me of all my cloaths and stripped me naked threatning me with many grievous speeches At last the respective Italian perceiving I was a stranger and could not speak the Cretan tongue began to aske me in his owne language where was my money to whom I soberly answered I had no more than hee saw which was fourescore Bagantines which scarely amounted to two groats English but hee not giving credit to these words searched all my Cloathes and Budgeto yet found nothing except my linnen and Letters of recommendations I had from divers Princes of Christendome especially the Duke of Venice whose subjects they were if they had beene lawfull Subjects which when hee saw did move him to compassion and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy and to save my life A long deliberation being ended they restored backe againe my pilgrimes Cloathes and Letters but my blew Gowne and Bagantines they kept such also was their theevish Courtesie towards me that for my better safeguard in the way they gave me a stamped piece of clay as a token to shew any of their companions if I encountred with any of them for they were about twenty Rascalls of a confederate band that lay in this desart passage Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes I travailed that day seven and thirty Miles and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno where I could have neither meate drinke lodging nor any refreshment to my wearied body These desperate Candiors thronged about me gazing as though astonished to â—ee me both want company and their Language and by their cruell lookes they seemed to be a barbarous uncivill people For all these High-landers of Candy are tyrannicall blood-thirsty and deceitfull The consideration of which and the appearance of my death signed to mee secretly by a pittifull woman made mee to shunne their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave by the Sea side where I lay till Morning with a fearefull heart a crased body a thirsty stomacke and a hungry belly Upon the appearing of the next Aurora and when the welkin had put aside the vizard of the night the Starres being covered and the earth discovered by the Sunne I imbraced my unknowne way and about mid-day came to Canea Canea is the second City of Creete called anciently Cydon being exceeding populous well Walled and fortified with Bulwarks It hath a large Castle containing ninety seven Pallaces in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell There lye continually in it seven Companies of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the Walls guard the gates and Market places of the City Neither in this Towne nor Candia may any Countrey peasant enter with weapons especially Harquebuses for that conceived feare they have of Treason Truely this City may equall in strength either Zara in Dalmetia or Luka or Ligorne both in Tuscana or matchlesse Palma in Friuly for these five Cities are so strong that in all my Travaile I never saw them matched They are all well provided with aboundance of Artillery and all necessary things for their defence especially Lukâ— which continually reserves in store provision of victualls for twelve yeares siege In my first abode in Canea being a fortnight there came 6. Gallies from Venice upon one of which there was a young French Gentleman a Protestant borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke who being by chance in company with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice one of them killed a young noble Venetien about the quarrell of a Curtezan Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house the rest escaped and he onely apprehended by a fall in his flight was afterward condemned by the Senators to the Gallyes induring life Now the Gallyes lying here sixe dayes he got leave of the Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper when he would carrying an Irom bolt on his legge In which time wee falling in acquaintance he complained heavily of his hard fortune and how because he was a Protestant besides his slavery he was severely abused in the Galley sighing forth these words with teares Lord have mercy upon mee and grant me patience for neither friends nor money can redeeme mee At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion the oâ—her for his misfortunes working a Christian condolement for intollerable affliction For I was in Venice at that same time when this accident fell out yet would not tell him so much But pondering seriously his lamentable distresse I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance desiring him to come a shoare early the next morning Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman with whom I was friendly inward for shee was my Landresse and reciting to her the whole businesse she willingly condiscended to lend me an old Gowne and a blacke vaile for his disguisement The time came and we met the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper but such was my plot I did invite him to the Wine where after tractall disâ—ourses and deepe draughts of Leatick reason failing sleepe over-came his sences Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place I disburdened him of his Irons
seed planted by Gods owne hand and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints Nam sanguis Martyrum semen Ecclesiae est grew so great a tree that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City and Province of the whole World Before my arrivall in Aleppo the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed which bred no small griefe in my brest The Venetian Consul to whom I was highly recommended by the aforesaid Merchants having had some insight of my intended Voyage informed me that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates for some conceived report they had of Arabs that lay for them in the Desarts and willed 〈◊〉 to hire a Ianizary â—and three Souldiers to over-high them whose counsell I received but was meerly frustrated of my designes True it was they stayed but were gone three dayes before my comming to that unhappy place The distance from whence over land to Babylon or Bagdat being but six small or short days journey the losse whereof and the damnable deceit of my Ianizary made my Muse to expresse what my sorrowfull prose cannot perform The doubts and drifts of the voluble mind That here and there do flee turn judgement blind Did over-whelme my heart in grim despaire Whilst hope and reason fled stay'd tim'nous care And yet the grounds were just my treacherous guide Did nought but crosse me greed led him aside Still this still that I would all I surmise Is shrewdly stopt At last my scopes devise To make a Boat to bear me down alone With Drudges two to ground-chang'd Babylon That could not be the charges was too great And eke the stream did nought but dangers threat My conduct still deceiv'd me made it square Another Caravan O! would come there From Aleppo or Damascus till in end Most of my moneys did his knavery spend Thus was I tost long five weeks and four days With strugling doubts O strange were these delays At last a Chelfain came a Christian kind Who by my grief soon understood my mind And told me flat the Janizaries drift Was to extort me with a lingring shift Come come said he the Sanzack here is just Let us complain for now complain you must He with me went and for a Trenchman serv'd And told the Ruler how my Conduct swerv'd He 's call'd and soon convinc'd and with command Forc'd to transport me back to Syria's land I 'me there arriv'd and eft-soons made me bound For the Venetian Consul there to sound My great abuses by this Villain done Which soon were heard and eke repayr'd as soon The Bassaw was upright and for times sake He did me more then conscience will'd me take My plaint preferd he was in Prison laid And all my gold to give me back was made Which he had falsly tane where for his pains He had the losse and I receiv'd the gains For doubling his wrongs done to crosse him more I got my vantage from his craft before And for his ten weeks fees no more he had Than â—e that 's owner of a ditch-faln jade Thus leaving him I with the Consul bode Full forty days ere I went thence abroad In the eleven days journey I had betweene Aleppo and Beershack through a part of Syria the breadth of Mesopotamia and Chelfaine a Province of the same joyning with Tygris and Euphrates and returning the same way again I found nothing worthy of remarking save the fertility of the soile which indeed in Mesopotamia yieldeth two crops of wheat in the year and for a Bushell sowing in divers places they recoyle a hundred again The Country it selfe is overclad with infinite Villages having no eminent Town of any note or consequence except the City of Caraâ—â—men the seâ—t of a Beglerbeg who commandeth under him 14 Sanzacks and 26000 Timariots The people here are for the most part believers in Christ but alas too silly untoward and ignorant Christians And yet though without learning or great understanding therein they are wonderfull zealous in their profession and great sufferers for it also This barbarous Towne of Beershacke being situate on Euphratess standeth in the Chelâ—aines Country and is supposed to have been Padan-aram where Laban dwelt and where Iacob kept Labans sheep though some interpret all Mesopotamia then to have beene called Padan-aram from whence North-east and not far hence are the demolished fragments of Nineveh on Tygris whose very ruines are now come to ruine The decays whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta or to the stony heaps of Iericho the detriments of Thebes the relicts of Tyrus or to the finall overthrow of desolate Troy This Country of Chelfaine is the place most agreeable with Scripture where the earthly Paradice was once set though now impossible to be found out Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine but by the nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull It is bordered with Caldea on the East Euphrates on the South Syria on the North and Arabia Petrea on the West This Aleppo is a City in Syria the name of which hath been so oft changed by Turks that the true antiquitie of it can hardly be known It is both large and populous and furnished with all sorts of Merchandize especially of Indigo and Spices that are brought over land from Goa and other places in India which draweth a concurrance of all Nations to it Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the Great Turke by the Great Bassaw of Aleppo who was also an Emeere or hereditary Prince to wit the yeere before my comming hither hee had revolted against his Emperour and fighting the Bassaws of Damascus and Carahemen overcame them The yeare following and in my being there the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Showse and two Ianizaries in Ambassage to him where when they came to Aleppo the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia The Messengers make haste after him but in their journey they met him comming back to Aleppo accompanied with his two sonnes and sixe hundred Horsmen Upon the high way they delivered their message where hee stood still and heard them The proffer of Achmâ—t was that if hee would acknowledge his Rebellion and for that Treason committed send him his Head his eldest Son should both inherit his possessions and Bassawship of Aleppo otherwise he would come with great forces in all expedition and in his proper person he would utterly raze him and all his from the face of the earth At which expression the Bassaw knowing that hee was not able to resist the invincible Army of his Master and his owne presence hee dismounted from his Horse and went to counsell with his sonnes and neerest friends where hee and they concluded it was best for him to die being an old man to save his Race undestroyed and to keepe his son in his authoritie and inheritance This done the Bassaw went to prayer and taking his leave of them all sate down upon his knees
Walls which were built by Sultan Selim So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great though a part thereof be removed but a man may boldly affirme that the most part of this City is builded on that place where the first Ierusalem was as may truly appeare and is made manifest by these Mountains mentioned in the Scriptures whereupon Ierusalem is both situate and environed about who reserve their names to this day and are still seene and knowne by the same as Mount Syon Mount Calvary Mount Moriah and Mount Olivet The forme of the situation of Ierusalem is now like to a Hart or Triangle the one point whereof looketh East extending downward almost to the Valley of Iehosaphat which divideth Ierusalem and Mount Olivet The second head or point bendeth out South-west upon Syon bordering neere to the Valley of Gehinnon The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah toward the North and by West having its prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel The Walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato which adorne Ierusalem more then any thing within it the Holy Grave excepted It is of circuit about three miles and a halfe of our measure As touching the former glory of this City I will not meddle withall nor yet describe sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same concerning the lamentable destruction of it I refer that to the famous Historiographer Iosephus who largely discourâ—eth of many hundred thousands famished and put to the Sword within this multipotent City by Vespasian and Titus his sonne being the messengers of Gods just judgements which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands But it is to be understood they were all at one time in Ierusalem but came up by turns and times from the circumjacent Countries about by thousands and as they were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required This City hath oft bin conquered by enemies First by Nabuchodanezzar the Assirian King Secondly by the Greekes and Alexander the Great and also marvellously afflicted by Antiochus Thirdly it was taken in by Pompeius Fourthly destroyed by Vespatian and Titus Fiftly it was re-edified by Adrian the Emperour and wonne againe by Gosdroes the Persian King Sixtly it was overcome by Homor Califf the successour of Mahomet Seventhly by the great Souldan of Aegypt and by Godfrey du Bulloine a Christian Prince Eightly by Saladine the Caliph of Aegypt and Damascus Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time And lastly it was surprized by Sultan Selim or Solyman the Emperour of the Turkes Anno 1517. joyning the Holy Land together with Aegypt to his Empire who fortified the same being by Infidels detained to this day and by likely-hood shall keep it to the consummation of the world unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise then the hopes of mans weake judgement can expect Whence truely I may say that when fortune would change friendship she dis-leagueth conditionall amity with the senslesse litargy of foule ingratitude This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw being placed there by the Bassaw of Damaseus whose Deputy hee is the other being chiefe Ruler under the Grand Signior over all the Holy Land and the halfe of Syria There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in Ierusalem to withstand the Arabish invasions consisting of eight hundred Souldiers Turkes and Moores who are vigilant in the night and circumspect in the day time so that none can enter the Towne without their knowledge nor yet goe forth without their triall This is a memorable note and worthy of observation that at that time when the Cities of Ierusalem and Antiochia were recovered from the Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Bolloigne the Pope of Rome that then was was called Vrbanus the Patriarch of Ierusalem Heraclius and the Roman Emperour Fredericke And at the same time and long thereafter when Ierusalem was re-inthralled and seized upon by Saladine the Popes name was Vrbanus the Patriarch of Ierusalem Heraclius and the Roman Emperour Fredericke After Herod the Idumean sonne to Antipater in whose time Christ was born Archelaus Agrippa Herod who imprisoned Peter and Iames and was eaten of vermine in whose time Christ suffered and Agrippaminor before whom Paul pleaded the last King of the Iews had raigned being strange Kings in the last Kings time Ierusalem was overthrowne and the Kingdome made a Province of the Roman Empire Anno 37. After which desolation the Iews were over all the World dispersed but afterward in a zealous consideration were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdomes out of France they were rejected by Philip the Faire Anno 1307. out of Spain by Ferdinand the Catholicke 1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth 1290. out of Naples and Sycilia by Charles the fifth 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany Poland and in some Cities of Italy as Venice and her Territories Florence and the jurisdiction thereof the principalities of Parma Mantua Modena Vrbino and their extending limits and finally Rome besides her Ecclesiasticall papacie wherein there are no lesse than twenty thousand of them They are also innumerable over all the Turkish Dominions who so misregard and hate them for the crucifying of Christ that they use to say in detestation of any thing I would I might die a Iew neither will they permit a Iew to turn Turk unlesse hee first be baptized And yet live where they will the most part of them are the wealthiest people in the world having subtile and sublime spirits Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Iudah and Israel beginning at Moses the Judges of the Iews were 16 of whom Samuel was the last at which time the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations The Kings of the Iews were three Saul David and Salomon And the Kings of Iudah were twenty Zedechias being last in whose time Nebuchadnezzar destroyed Ierusalem Of the Kings of Israel there were seventeene of whom Oseas was the last in whose time the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria by King Salmanasser The Dukes or Governours of Iewry were fifteene of which Ioannes Hircanius was the last Governour of Iudea which descended from the stock of David During the government of which Captains after the Babylonian captivity the Jewish Kingdome was plagued on both sides by the Kings of Aegypt and Syria who slaughtered their people ransacked their Cities made havock of their goods and compelled them to eat forbidden flesh and sacrifice to Idols To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly resisted and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians Whereupon the Iews chose Iudas sirnamed Machabeus for their Captaine one of the Worlds nine Worthies who thought not of the line of David was yet of the
to keepe my stomacke hot to abstaine from eating of fruit and to live soberly with a temperate diet The rule of which government I strove diligently to observe so did I also in all my travells prosecute the like course of a smal diet and was often too small against my will by the meanes whereof praised be God I fell never sicke til my returne to France This City is mightily impoverished since the Trading of Spices that were brought through the red Sea to Aegypt and so over Land to Alezandria its Sea-port Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all Christendome but are now brought home by the backe-side of Affricke by the Portugals English and Flemmings which maketh both Venice and Alezandria fare the worse for want of their former trafficke and commerce in these Southerne parts whence Venice grew the mother nurse to all Europe for these Commodities but now altogether spoyled thereof and decayed by our Westerne Adventures in a longer course for these Indian soyles This City was a place of great Merchandise in the Nycen Councell was ordayned to bee one of the foure Partiarchall seas the other three are Antiochia Ierusalem and Constantinople Here in Alexandria was that famous Library which Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000 volumes It was hee that also caused the 72 Interpreters to translate the Bible Over against Alexandria in the little Isle Pharos in the which for the commodity of saylers the aforesaide King builded a watch-towre of white Marble being of so marvellous a height that it was accounted one of the seven Wonders of the world the other six being the Pyramides the Tombe Mausolaca which Helicarnassus Queene of Caria caused built in honour of her husband the Temple of Ephesus the Wals of Babylon the Colossus of Rhodes and the Statâ—e of Iupiter Olympicus at Elis in Greece which was made by Phidias an excellent work-master in Gold and Ivory being in height 60 Cubites Expecting fifteene dayes heere in Alexandria for passage great was the heate the French men and I indured in somuch that in the day time we did nought but in a low roome besprinkled the water upon our selves and all the night lie on the top or platforme of the house to have the ayre where at lest bidding good-night to our Greekish Host wee imbarked in a Sclavonian ship belonging to Ragusa and so set our faces North for Christendom in which ship I was kindly used and Christian-like enterteined both for victuals and passage The Winds somewhat at the beginning favouring us wee weighed Anchors and set forward to Sea leaving â—he Coast of Cyrene Westward from us which lieth between Aegypt by the Sea side and Numidia or Kingdome of Tunnis The chief cities therein are Cyrene Arsinâ—a and Barca whence the whole Cyrenian Countrey taketh the modern name Barca Marmorica anciently Penta Politanat The Soyle is barren of Waters and Fruites the people rude and theftâ—ous yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits as Calimachus the Poet Aristippus the Phylosopher Eratosthenes the Mathematician and Symon of Cyrene whom the Iewes compelled to carry our Saviours Crosse. In this Province which is now reckoned as a part of Aegypt stood the Oracle of Iupiter Hammon in the great Wildernesse confining with Lybia Whither when Alexander travailed he saw for foure dayes 〈◊〉 neither Man Beast Bird Tree nor River Where when arriâ—ed the flattering Priests professed him to be the sonne of Iupiter which afterwards being hurt with an Arrow â—ee found false saying Omnes ne vocant filium Iovis sed 〈◊〉 sagitta me probat esse mortalem West from Cyrene â—ll the Kingdomes of Tunnis Tremisen Algier Fesse â—nd a part of Morocco even to the Gibilterre or fretum Herculeâ—m under a generall name now called Barbary and hardly can be distinguished by the barbarous Moores In the time of this our Navigation for Christendome there dyed seventeene of our Mariners and all our foure French Pilgrimes two of them being gray haired and 60 yeares of age which bred no small griefe and feare to us all thinking that they had died of the plague for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence wee came The French men had onely left unspent among them all threescore and nine Chickeens of Gold which the Master of the Ship medled with and because they were Papists and they and I alwayes adverce to other I could not claime it Their dead Corpes were cast over Board in a boundlesse Grave to feed the fishes and wee then expecting too the like mutation of Life So likewise in our passage wee were five sundry times assailed by the Cursares and Pirats of Tunnis and Biserta yet unprevailing for wee were well provided with good Munition and skilfull Martiall and resolute Ragusans and a Gallant ship Our Ships burthen being sixe hundred Tunnes did carry twenty eight peeces of Ordonance two of them brazen and fourescore strong and strenuous Saylers besides nine Merchants and Passengers The greatnesse of our ship did more terrifie the roguish Runnagates then any violent defence wee made for they durst never set on us unlesse they had beene three together and yet we little reregarded them in respect of our long reaching Ordonance and expert gunners in these circumstances of time I remember almost every day wee should see flockes of flying fishes scudding upon the curling waves so long as their finnes be wet which grow from their backe as feathered wings do from Fowles But when they grow drie they are forced to fall downe and wet them agayne and then fly along Their flight will bee the length of a Cables Rope untouching Water and in this their scudding it is thought the Dolphin is in persuing them who is their onely enemy in devouring and feeding upon them whose bignesse and length are like to Mackrels but greater headed and shouldered Meane-while in these our Courses were we seven weeks crossed with Northernly Windes ever Tackling and boarding from the Affricke Coasts to the Carminian shoare in all which time wee saw no Land except the boisterous billows of glassie Neptune And as Ovid said in the like case crossing the Ionian seas Nil nisi pontus et aer viz. Nothing but Waves I view whereships do floate And dangers lye huge Whales do tumbling play Above my head Heavens star-imbroidred coate Whose vault containes two eyes for night and day Far from the Main or any Marine Coast Twixt Borean blasts and billowes we are tost If Ovid in that strait Ionean deep Was tost so hard much more am I on Seas Of larger bounds where staffe and Compasse Keepe Their strict observance yet in this unease Of tackling Boards we so the way make short That still our course drawes neerer to the Port. Between the streame and silver spangled skie Wee rolling climbe then hurling fall beneath Our way is Serpent like in Meeds which lye That bowes the Grasse but never makes no path But fitter like young maides and youthes together
ignorant of the way and their women bee lovely faire going head-covered with black vailes and much inclined to licentiousnesse their beauties being borrowed from helpe more then nature for now it is a common practice amongst decayed beauties banquerouted by time or accidents to hide it from others eyes with Art and from their owne with false glasses But alasse the graces and beauties of the soule ought more to be cared for and to have the first place and honour above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body and the beatuy and lovely proportion of the body should dreferred before the effeminate deckings that the body doth rather carry then enjoy since it often hapneth that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire and rich wardrope In this Town of Malta there are many Turkish Moorish slaves very rudely treated yet not answerable to that cruelty the slavish Christians indure upon their Gallies in Barhary or Turkie Tâ—e description of Malta I postpone to the succeeding relations of my second Travels and after twelve daies staying here limbarked in a Frigar with other passengers and arrived at Cicily in the South-east corner of Sicilia being threescore miles distant From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracusa Irancountred by the way in a clifty Greek close by the sea-side a Moorish Brigantine with twelve oares on each side charged with Moores who had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away labouring on the fields At which sudden sight and being hard by them I stopped my pace Whereupon about twenty Moores broke out upon me with shables slings But my life and liberty being deare to me my long traced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces than they could follow in eighteene for I behoved to fly backe the same way I came where when freed I hastned to the next Watch-tower marine set and there told the Centinell how a Moorish Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift and how hardly I escaped their hands where upon he making a fire on the top of the tower and from him all the Watch-towers along gave presently warning to the countey so that in a moment them of the Villages came downe on horse and foot and well armed and demanding me seriously of the truth I brought them with all possible celerity to the very place where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them wounding divers before they were all taken for some fled to the Rocks and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey At last they were all seazed upon and fast tyed two and two in iron chaines and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled Whence they were carried to Syracusa I went also along with them where by the way the people blessed me and thanked God for mine escape and me for discovering them from Syracusa being condemned to the galleyes upon the third day they were sent to Palermo being 36 in number They gone and I reposing here the Governer of that place for this peece of service and my travels sake did feast mee three dayes and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold so also the friends of them that were relieved which if I tooke or not judge you that best can judge on discretion This City is situate on a Promontory that butteth in the Sea having but one entry was once the capitall seat of the Kingdom though now by old tyrannies late alterations of time it is onely become a private place Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields for dainty fruits delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce From this place over-trafing other fifty miles to Catagna situate at Aetnaes foot I measured the third fifty miles to Messina Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Island till my returne from Affrick being my second voyage For true it is double experience deeper Knowledge where then punctually in my following order the Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction From Messina I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat loaded with Passingers whence shoaring along for foure hundred miles the higher and lower Calabrian Coast with a part of the Lavorean lists upon the twelfth day wee landed at Naples Where being disbarked I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees for my safe arrivall in Christendome and meeting there with the Earle of Bothwell and Captaine George Hepburne I embraced the way to Rome being sixe score and ten miles distance where I stole one nights lodging privately and on the morrow earely departing thence and crossing Tyber I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the Alpes Siena Florence Luca Pisa Genoa Bullogna Parma Pavia Piacenza Mantua Milane and Torine the comendation of which Cities rest revolv'd in these following Verses Illustrat at Saenas patriae facundia Lingua Splendida solertes nutrit Florentia Cives Liberaluca tremit ducibus vicina duobus Flent Pisa amissum dum contemplantur honorem Genua habet portum mercesque domesque superbas Excellit studiis facundo Bononia cunctis Commendant Parmam lac caseus atque butirum Italicos versus prefert Papia Latinis Non caret Hospitiis per pulchra placentia caris Mantua gaudet aquis ortu decorata Maronis Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum Taurinum exornant virtus pietasque fidesque Having passed Torine and its Princely Court whose present Duke might have beene the mirrour of nobility I kept my way through Piemont or Pedemontano the sister of Lombardy and second Garden of Europe and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountaine of Mont Cola di Tenda the highest Hill of all the Alpes I found on its top that it reserveth alwayes Gradinian mist for a mile of way long stakes set in the Snow each one a Spears length from another to guide the Passinger his dangerous way of the which stoopes if hee faile hee is lost for ever After I had traversed this difficult passage I had two dayes journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria over which Hanibal had so much adoe to conduct his Army to Italy making a way through the Snow with Fire Vineger and Wine When it was said of him Viam aut inveniet Anniball aut faciet Leaving these Mountaines behind me I arrived at Niece in Provance situate on the Mediterran Sea and passing the Townes Antiâ—o and Cana to night at Furges there were three French murderers set upon mee in a theevish Wood twelve miles long one of which had dogged me hither from Niece Where having extreamely given mee a fearefull chase for a long league and not mending themselves they gave me over Well in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery and in it two Women and three young Childeren with whom I stayed and lodged all night After I had sup'd and going to bed in came these aforesaid Villaines accompained with my Host where when seene they straight accused
signifying Partridges that of Modena is Astie that of Florence de Medicis that of Vrbine Francesco Maria and the last Duke of Mantua Gonsaga the Dutchy of Ferrara being dissolved is converted to the Popes patrimony Leaving Piemont and coasting the sassinious shoare of Genoaes revieroe I ported Ligorn the great Dukes Sea-haven where I left Mr Bruce with a Galley Captaine a voluntary Souldier and inclining along to Florence by the way at Pistoia I found a comfortable crosse for I viewing the market place after supper and carrying a French Ponyard in my pocket the head of it was espied by a Badgello Captaine of the Sergeants who straight gripped me bore mee to prison and clapt me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my moneys and Ponyard and Posting that might to Florence on the morrow shew the Justice there a Stilletto of his own upon which I was condemned to row in the Gallies for a yeare else to pay a hundred Duckets Hee staied there three days in this time was I discovered to the Governour of Pistoia a noble Gentleman and being brought before him and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty of the Badgello not that I never wore a Stilletto but under pretext of that had robbed mee of three-score and twelve pieces of Gold Whereupon the Governour perceiving the knavery of the Villaine and that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending to whose place it belonged he grew discontented and forthwith sent post to his Highnesse shewing him the trueth of the businesse Whereupon the Badgello was sent backe to the Governour with whom I was domestickly reserved and being accused before my face of his roguery could not deny it well my gold and my Ponyard is restored againe the Badgello banished the territory of Pistoia for ever with his Wife and Children and I received in compensation of my abuses from his Highnesse Chamber or Treasury there fifty Florentine Crownes of gold being modified by the Duke him selfe where at I extolled the knave that wrought his own wracke in seeking my overthrow and brought me such a noble reward Thanking God for this ioyfull crosse and approaching Florence I found one Iohn Browne there whose company I imbraced to Sicilia Whence having privately past Rome and publickly Naples we footed along the marine by Salerno and courting Consenza the capitall seate of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth we reposed there certaine dayes The Towne is of no quantity nor quality in regard of the obscurenesse and solitarinesse of the Countrey the better sort of their Gentry living at Naples having left the lower and entred the higher Calabria wee arrived at the Bourge of Allauria and the next morrow traversing close and couert mountaines twelve miles along in the midst of our passage wee were beset with foure Bandits and foure Guns To whom holding up my hand and imploring for our lives shewing them mine adventures and former travells they unbend their fire-locks and reading my parent of Ierusalem uncouered their heads and did me homage notwithstanding they were absolute murderers Our lives and liberty is granted and for a greater assurance they tooke us both into a great Thicket of wood where their timber Cabin stood and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheare their sequestrate Cottage could afford And now because there were Forty more Bandits their companions among these mountaines one of themselves for our safeguard came along with us and as neare Castellucia as hee durst making mee sweare that I should not shew the Baron of that place of their private residence neither that I met with them at all which I freely did and so gave him many hearty and deserved thanks These Bandits or men-slayers will come into any free Towne in the night when they please and recovering either a Church or Hospitall they stay there as they list conducing with their friends their wives and their affaires being as safe in these places as though they had not committed any criminall fact neyther may the power of Justice reach to them so long as they keepe themselves within doores This is an ancient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained and so is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions Having arrived at Castelucia the Baron thereof made much of mee wondred that I had safely past the mountaines for said he when I go for Naples I am forced to go by sea notwithstanding I have forty in train The next day in passing Montecilione the fairest fruitfullest bounded Bourg in all Calabria superior I saw a distecture house which the people told me had beene the Schoole where Dionysius the third last Tyrant of Sicilia after his flight from the Kingdome Crown taught Children privately nine yeares ere he was knowne to bee a King but a poore Schoolmaster The higher Calabria though mountanous aboundeth in delicious Wines fine pastorage and exceeding good Silke The Peasants alwayes commonly here are addicted to eate Onions whence rose this Proverbe I Câ—labrese magniano di Cepoli the Calabrians feed upon Onions Their women weare uncomely habits being hooded from their browes to their backes behind with sixe or seven sundry colours of cloth or stuffe whose upper gownes come no further downe than there middle thighes And their breeches and stockings being all one and their legs halfe booted they looke like the ghostly Armenian Gargosons I remember in passing this higher Countrey I found divers Cassales or Terraes small Villages of certaine Greekes called Albaneses whose predecessors had fled from Albania when the Turke seased upon Epyre and this their Province and was privileged here to stay by the Spaniard Philip the first And though exiled from their naturall Patrimonies Omne solum forti patria est yet are they exceeding kind to stranger measuring largely their owne infranchized fortune with the voluntary exposement of many unnecessary Viadants Declining thence to the marine Bourge of Molino being by land which wee footed distant from Naples 400 miles wee crossed the narrow Faro or Sycilian Euripus to Messina being two miles broad Where when landed and meeting with a young Scots Edenburgensen William Wylie come from Palermo and bound for Venice I fastned Iohn Browne with him to accompany his returne and on the following day imbarked them both backe for Calabria And now having followed the Italian saying Simeglior a star solo come mala accompaniato it is better for a man to bee alone then in ill company I traversed the Kingdome to Trapundie seeking transportation for Affricke but could get none And returning thence overthwart the Island I call to memory being lodged in the Bourge of Saramutza belonging to a young Baron and being bound the way of Castello Francko eight miles distan and appertaining to an other young Noble youth I rose and marched by the breach of day where it was my lucke halfe way from either Towne to finde both these beardlesse Barons lying dead and new killed in the
and South-most Towne of the Kingdome of Fez composed of a thousand fire-houses well fortified with Walles and a Garrison of Moores in it subiect to the Emperour of Moroco the French-man long ere day fell sick of a burning Feaver Whereupon wee stayed five dayes expecting his health which growing worse and worse and hee mindfull to returne which I would not I left him in safe custodie and one of our Drudges to attend him And bearing the charges of the other two according to the former condition I set forward for my purpose which ere long turned to sad Repentance Leaving Ahetzo behind us and entring the Countrey of the Agaroes wee found the best inhabitants halfe clad the vulgars naked the Countrey void of Villages Rivers or cultivage but the soile rich in Bestiall abounding in Sheep Goats Camels Dromidores and passing good horses Having an Emeere of their owne being subiect to none but to his owne passions and them to the disposition of his scelerate nature yet hee and they had a bastard show of Mahometanicall Religion Their Bestiall are watered with sources and the pastorable fields with the nightly Serene and themselves with the waterish concavity of the earth In our sixe dayes toile traversing this Countrey wee had many troubles and snarlings from these Savages who somtimes over-laboured us with Bastinados and were still inquirous what I was and whither I went yea and enough for the Dragoman to save my life and liberty Having past the perverstnesse of this calamity upon the seaventh day wee rancountred with another soile and worser tribe of the Hagans or Iamnites most part whereof were white Moors a people more ugly then the Nigroes yet some of the better sort had their members covered but of condition far more wicked then the former The Soyle we daily traced was covered with hard and soft Sands and them full of Serpents being interlarded with Rockey heights faced with Caves Dens the very habitacle of Wilde beasts whose hollow cryes as we heard in the night so we too often sighted their bodies in the day especially Jackals Beares and Boares and somtimes Cymbers Tygers and Leopards against whom in the day time if they approached us we eyther shot of a Harquebus or else flashed some powder in the Ayre the smell whereof no ravenous beast can abide This vast Wildernesse is a part of the Berdoans Countrey one of the foure tribes of the olde Lybrians the Sabuncks the Carmines and the Southerne Garolines being the other three And now to helpe the expression of my grievous distresse and miseries my Muse must lament the jest Ah! sightlesse desarts fill'd with barren Sands And parched plains were huge and hilly laâ—ds Have stone-fac'd scurrile bounds O monsterous feare What destiny drove my cross'd Fortune here By day I 'me scoarch'd with heate by night the grounds Are clad with beasts whose rage sends horrid sounds Of dreadfull death whence we to shunne their ire Are forc'd to fright them with bright Tara fire For if it were not that they scarr'd at Light No man could walke or rest safe in the night Then next and nigh the crawling Serpent lurke Still under foote some stung-swolne smart to worke Which moove the Sands like Seas in seeking shade Where 'mongst their linking roles I 'me forc'd to wade Whose neckes like legs are round their bodies strong With black-spred backs their length full two yards long Yet whilst I cut and crush their warbling wombe I point their death their skin I make their tombe But worst I 'me hungerbit and starving slaine With pinching want a sore-sunke gnawing paine O helplesse â—orture second'd with great drouth And fiery thirst that scab my lips and mouth Wherefor fine lyquor as my my heart would wish Stress'd wandring I am forc'd to drink my pisse So turnes my food to smoake the smoake to ashes Which twice a night we three do spend in flashes Last casts my face the skin my skin the colour And spewing forth fled joyes I drinke in dolour Thus with the Torrid Zone am I opprest And lock'd twixt Tropicks two which mee invest Wherefor reliefe I pierc'd the Heavens with cryes And cut the Clouds to grieve the azure skies With sighs and grones â—et carefull to regard My curious drifts had got their just reward But to shorten my Discourse of barren Wildernesses supposed to be apart of the Lybian Desarts my Dragomaâ— upon the fourth day of our seven being there falling in despaire and wondring to see me indure such heate such hunger and such toyle did threaten mee with death to make mee seeke backe for our nearest refuge Whereupon holding our course North-east my compasse-Dyall being our guide wee rancountred earely on the eight day with nine hundred Savages naked Lybian Sabunks five hundred whereof were women armed with Bowes and Arrows who with their complices the former night had put to the sword three hundred Berdoanes their neighbour tribe carrying away above sixe hundred Sheepe and Goats besides other bestiall from whom after our sight of their Emeere or Prince wee had first liberty of life and then reliefe of food for hee came up in the Reare with a hundred Horse-men charged with halfe Pikes headed at both ends with sharpe Steele The person of their Prince was onely clothed from his brests downe to his middle thigh with a Crimson vaile of Silke hanging on his naked shoulders with coloured Ribans and on his head a party coloured Shash set like a Garland Both his knees were bare so were his ancles the calues of his legges being girded with Crimson Silke and on his feet yellow shooes his beard was like his face burnt with the Sunne and his age like to my owne of 33 yeares his Religion is damnable so is his life for hee and all the foure Tribes of Lybia worship onely for their god Garlick having altars Priests and superstitious rites annexed to it Thinking Garlicke being strong of it selfe and the most part of their food to have a soveraigne vertue in a herball Diety All his Courters were starke naked saving his Page who was even covered like to the King his Master And now having dismissed his Army for the way and falling in an houres parley with us at his departure he prâ—pyned me with his Bowe a Quiver of Arâ—owes which afterward I presented to his Maiesty then Prince There is a merry secret heare concerning the women which often I recited to King Iames of Blessed memory showing him also three Certificats of this my Desartuous wandring one of which was confirmed by English Ward at Tunneis upon the Dragomans Report though now they with all my other Patents are lost in the Inquisition of Malaga This former savage Prince sent a Guide with vs for foure dayes journey the condition of his mans Wages being made by himselfe and franckly advised us that Tunneis was our best and nearest recourse Which being forcibly considered I was constrained to renew my bargaine agayne with