Pears Cherries black and red Hurtle Berries Apples Rasps Strawberries and other delicate Fruits for so the Almighty Wisdom has ordained it that when the time of Thaw comes which is usually the end of March the Snow being cleared off the Ground after that becoming dry in 14 days Flowers and all other products of the Earth sprout out and flourish incredibly the Woods show a pleasing Green and the Birds every where warble Mellodiously especially Nightingals who Sing more distinct and clear than any where else The Storks busy themselves in Building in ruined Edifices Hawks of all kinds in the Rocks and Sea-shoar-cliffs Eagles in the rockey Mountains more Northernly the Hare in Winter is White sheds her Coat and becomes the colour of ours The Lakes and Rivers are stocked with Swans and variety of other Water Fowl so that the face of things seem admirably changed and the Country is so pleasant that those who should see it in Winter how Dismal and in a manner Desolate it appears and knows no more would conclude it impossible or take it for quite an other Climate Therefore I took my opportunity of Travelling here whilst it was seasonable for the dreadful Stories I heard of Winter made me sometimes allmost fancy I had an Ague in my Bones at the Relation of them but the Muscovites are hardy answerable in a good degree to the Climate and are more patient of Cold and Hunger than others by which means they have the advantage of their Enemies in firing them out by Winter Camps and other Fateigues For a Russ Soldier told me he had often made his Bed in the Snow without any Tent only hanging up his Mantle against that part from whence the Weather drove and turning his back to the Wind his Drink being the cold Stream with a little Oat-meal dusted into it and the Forage for his Horse consisted in that Season of Twigs and Bark of Trees and yet performed well the service undertaken others to harden and inure themselves to the Cold the better go abroad Hunting the Beasts that bare the Furs have come sweating out of their Bath Stoves in the ridged Season and leaped Naked into a River where the Ice has been broken and it is a remedy among them against the Numbness of their Limbs occasioned by cutting Winds to rowl themselves in Snow yet for all this there are many tender among them that cannot endure these hardships The Women are much confined at Home and very Obliging and Obedient to their Husbands yet so much Heat as they endure being closed up in Winter tending their Fires makes them but of a bad Complexion yet they mend their Faces by their Husbands allowance with a Red and White Paint but easily discernable yet being the Fashion is not minded and especially among the Vulgar If a Man sometimes beats not his Wife she will be Sullen and fancy he loves her not and they have a Custom when they first pretend Courtship among other Presents to send a Whip to show the Woman what she has to trust to if she prove Disobedient and this they take more kindly than the rest but I find these matters though proper to be known yet some digression from Travels have drawn me to launch too far this way therefore now I come something more home to the purpose The next chief City of Moscovy is Novogrod pleasantly Seated and a place of considerable Trade the Building mostly of Wood as generally the Building is in all this Country the Streets in many places not paved but planked with Furr jointed and laid in so that it shoots the Water off commodiously it is the head of a Province or Shire where the Court of Justice do determine matters is held by a Duke and Dyack the Latter acting in the nature of a Secretary and these Courts are held in all chief Cities but an Appeal lays from them to the Office of the four Chetfrids at Moscow who are chief Judges of the four Quarters or Divisions of the whole Country of Muscovy each holding an Office for his District or Quarter and all the Shires or Provinces apply themselves to the Office of that Lord of the Chetfrid they are under then the matter is laid before the Czar's Council and what they Determine is sent back to be put in Execution Vologda is an other principal City seated on a River of that Name where is a great Trade for Furs Hides Tallow Corn and other Merchandize bringing in a considerable Revenue in Customs and other Taxes to the Prince who has a part in this an other places for almost every thing that is sold so that his Incoms are very great accounted no less than 13 Millions of Rubbles a Year and a Rubble is reckoned according to Exchange a Mark English Voldomir is an other City of considerable Trade and gives name to a Province it is built very regular and pretty well Fortified and is watered by a considerable Stream at leastways very near it But besides Moscow the Towns or Cities of chief strength are Vobsko and Smolensko Cazan and Astrakan lying on the Borders and defending the Country against the Inroads or Incursions of the Tartars Jaruslave an other fair City for its commodious Scituation on a high Bank of the Volga is in great Esteem The Country about it is exceeding Fruitful in Corn-pasture Fruit-trees and has a great Fishery on the River In this City they say dwelt the Russ Prince Vlademia Sir-named Jaruslave who at the Mediation of Sneno the Dane married the Daughter of our King Harold Perislave is a considerable City commodiously built on the Banks of a great Lake yielding in it abundance of Fish and enriching it by Trade from such Towns as border on that Lake or the Rivers that fall into it Rostove may be numbered among the rest for here is a great Trade for Furs and other Commodities bought up to disperse into other parts of Europe and Merchants come hither as far as Persia some say from China beyond the great Wall built to exclude the roving Tartars of which I have already spoke of There are a great number of other Towns the Country being mostly to the Southern parts full of them but not so considerable as these I have named for the Houses are of Wood most without any Lime or Stone built very close and warm with Fur-trees plained and piled over one another fastned together with Notches or Dents at every Corner and between the Timber for warmness they stuff in Moss and the Houses have Stairs leading out of the Yard into the Chamber and this manner of Building seems more agreeable to the Country than any other as being far warmer than Stone or Brick in the extremity of Winter and in Summer the Moss being pulled out of the Chinks le ts in the cool breathing Air to refresh them and of this Timber they have such plenty that for a small matter a House may be Built with many Appendages or Conveniences
part of them are Eunuchs Blacks of Aethiopia and others that are most comely of their kind they formerly were only Gelt but it is said that Sultan Solyman one day seeing a Gelding back a Mare and perform as he supposed the office of a Stallion came Home and caused them all to be smoothed by the Belly to prevent their dabling with his Women of which Wound a great number died and now they make Water through a Silver Pipe which they put into the orrifice of the Root of their Yard to prevent polluting themselves by scattering their Urine on their Vestments for then till they have Absolution they think they are unclean as I shall shew hereafter and now they cut off the Genitals of Children they buy or have as Tribute upon the Borders of Aethiopia and other Negro Countries and though many die under this usage for it is not done till they are 8 or 10 years old that they may see whether they are Docil or Ingenious yet they have enough to serve in all the Seraglio's in Europe and Asia for there are others belonging to the Grand Signior beside those at Constantinople and many to the Bassa's and Governors of Provinces in divers Countries and these are so Jealous or rather Envious which makes them to watch over the Women so narrowly that they are rarely too cunning for them they are lodged in a separate Apartment together and the single Testimony of one of them against the greatest Subject in the Empire costs the party his Life nay a bare Sollicitation or too near a View without any Act is sufficient for a Strangling as for Example Sultan Amurat used a Prospective Glass to discover the Actions of those that were in the City and by that means espying a Man at a Window with the like Prospective taking a view of one of his Sultana's walking in the Garden of the Seraglio he thereupon sent a Capigi with 4 Mutes who entered the House and immediately Strangled the over curious unfortunate These Eunuchs have in a manner the sole Government of the Seraglio but particularly of the Women and when the Sultana's take the Air in the Garden the Bostangis or Gardeners stand round the Walls holding Staves with long and broad pieces of Cloth fastned to them which makes them as though they were Blind and is much higher than the Garden Wall to which their Backs are turned it being Death to look if any of the Eunuchs percieve it and complain of it and this Jealousie proceeds so far that no Boat is suffered to come within 400 Paces of the Garden-Wall though it is very high if the Sultana's be walking there and if any persume it there are Sentinels advantageously placed to Fire at them so that those who have business by Water are constrained to fetch a great compass about But notwithstanding this Jealousie which in a great or less Degree reigns all over the Empire the Turks esteem Women as very inconsiderable Creatures without Souls denying that they go to Heaven That they were only made to serve for the use of Man and be obedient to him and their main end was designed for Generation otherwise unless to satisfie their Lusts they esteem them scarce Rational and little better then Beasts In a word these of Quality are but splendid Slaves and the meaner sort miserable ones The Eunuchs have the Charge of bringing up the Grand Signior's Pages called Iâ—hnâ—glians who are the beautifulest Youths that can be got and for the most part of Christian Extraction but taken so young from their Parents that they easily Educate them in the Mahometan Superstition with great care till they are about 28 years of Age and are taught such Arts and used to such Exercise as their Inclination chiefly leads them to If they are of good natural parts and prompt in understanding they usually rise to the greatest preferments in the Ottoman Empire if not they are turned out and entered into pay and employments of other natures living but meanly but whilst they live in the Seraglio the greatest Preferment they can rise to is to be of the number of the Forty who are nearest the Grand Signior's Person and these the Eunuchs look narrowly after least they slip among the Women or defile one another by unnatural Lust for these are not dis membred among the 40 mentioned there are four in high Esteem viz. the Selihtar or Sword-bearer the Tschoader who carries the Cock the Ibrictar who carries Water ready to pour on the Grand Signior's Hands when he requires it and the Kuptar who carries the Pot of Sorbet to give him when he calls for it There are Seminaries of these Ichnogleans as at Peza c. where they are Educated and growing up sent to Constantinople to be entertained in the Grand Seraglio The next that make a considerable Figure in the Seraglio are the Bostangis or Gardeners over whom is a Bassa called the Bostangi Bassa he has his Lodging in the Seraglio and the Priviledge of wearing his Beard not any beside him and the Grand Signior doing it the rest being Shaved in token of Servitude He is very great with the Prince and always steers his Barge when he goes to take the Air on the Sea so that having his Ear and liberty to Discourse with him all the Grandees stand in fear of him and much consider his Power labouring to keep him their Friend and when any considerable Person is put to Death in Constantinople he is sent to fetch his Head There are in this City many little Seraglioes belonging to the great Men of the Court but on the out-side they look much like old decaying Buildings and some hold that they built them without external Beauty and Ornament because the Grand Signior should not be Jealous of their Pride as aspiring to too much greatness but within it is otherways for they have lovely Apartments adorned with Gold and Azure the Floors are covered with Rich Carpets so that those who enter pull of their Shooes to prevent any injury they may do them the Walls of most of them are faced with polished Tiles like China Ware in their Halls and Chambers they have risings about a Foot which they call Divans covered with richer Carpets than the Floor and Imbrodered Cushions placed in order on them Here they Rest receive Visits and spend the best part of the Day and the Womens Apartments in all these are separated from those of the Lodgings none but the Master of the House and some Eunuchs are suffered to enter where they are the Women stir little abroad having Baths in their Houses with suitable Attendance and other convenient Necessaries Thus having described all that is worthy of Note in Constantinople I shall speak something of the Neighbouring places which may properly be termed the Suburbs of this great City and in the first place Galata is a very pleasant place separated from the City only by the Port which may be crossed in Caiques or Wherries who are always attending however taking a compass you may go by Land and have a very fine Prospect of the Country This
it stands about 200 Paces distant upon a little rising placed on a square Pedestal about 7 or 8 Foot high that resting on a square Basis about 20 Foot broad and 2 Foot high made up of several large Stones the Body of the Pillar is an entire piece of Garnet about 6 Fathom in Compass having on the Top a very curious Capital and it must create Admiration by what strong Engines so vast a Stone could be brought thither which makes some believe it was cast and made of a certain Cement on the place which Art was usual with the Ancients though now for any thing that appears it is lost In this place appears the remains of Caesar's Pallace but all that can be called entire of it are some Porphery Pillars and a Frontispiece which looks very curious There is a Kihalis or Canal cut from the Nile which brings Water to this place and is the only good Water they have this fills their Cisterns that are Magnificently made and placed under in Vaults the whole Town being hollow underneath and supported by fair Marble Pillars and some say there are fair Streets under Ground wherein there are Shops to be seen still but the Turks for some Reasons will not discover them nor suffer any to go down in the Vaults that lead to them All along the Gardens borâ—er on the Kahalis planted with Lemon Orange and other curious Trees as Cassa and Corab Trees and the like Here stands St. Catharine's Church kept by the Greeks where they show a hollow Pillar on which they say her Head was cut off and would make Travellers believe that the Blood and Fat it is smeered with remained ever since her Decolation There is a pretty neat Church built to St. Mark where he received his Martyrdome and the Picture of St. Michael said to be drawn by St. Luke there are to be seen in some ruinous places Pillars of Porphyrian Marble and Obelisks of Garnet with Hierogliphicks upon them yet but one of them standing on a Pedestal Many other things are here to be seen but not to be tedious I shall omit the describing of all the Statues and Figures mostly encumbered with Ruins which are very numerous and rather demonstrate the former Magnificence of the place than what it now is and having setled my Affairs here I hired a Janisary for my greater security to pass on with me to Caire the Principal place of Aegypt but before I went thither I visited Rossetto about 60 miles from Alexandria there being but one place to bait at by the way called Maudie or the Passage because you Ferry over a Lock there full of Fish though there is a Castle nearer called Bouquier to defend the Road the rest or the greatest part being Desart Sands on the other side of the Water is a Kervanserai or Inn where you may be welcome to Eat and Drink such as you bring with you for nothing most part of this Journey you Travel along the Sea-side You may see where the Nile discharges it self into the Sea which is a very dangerous Passage there being Saiques and Barks usually cast away in venturing especially when the Sea is rough for then it occasions an Eddy in the Water of the River which turning the Vessels round casts them on Shoar Rossetto is the ancient Canopus lying in a Branch of the Nile falling into the Sea five Miles below the Town and this is accounted the neatest Town in Aegypt for its Piazza's and Hans being a Town of good Trade encompassed by five Gardens the Houses high and well built Provisions plenty and at a very cheap Rate From hence taking Water on the Nile I passed with many others to Boulac a Port of Caire This is a long narrow Town built on the side of the Nile and has about it many pleasant Gardens and Country Houses and here by Custom you must being a Frank pay at your first coming to Caire a Piastre which is received by Jews Authorized for that purpose At this place we hired Asses to go to Caire which the Moors kept ready sadled on purpose to wait for Travellers and accommodate them and you have the Ass and the Master's Attendance for a small Charge the latter running after and driving the Ass on and crying look to it which the Ass hearing is very cautious of stumbling CHAP. VIII A View of Caire and what is Remarkable in it c. CAIRE is the Capital City of Aegypt and with it runs the fortune of the whole Country when it was wrested from the Mamalukeâ— by Sultan Selim Emperor of the Turks Anno 1571 who caused Thomambey the Mamaluke Sultan to be hanged on a Hook under one of the Gates and exterminating the whole Race of those Men setled the Turkkish Government under a Bassa as his Viceroy This City is Scituate at the Foot of a Hill on which a Castle is built to Command it which renders it unhealthful insomuch that the Pestilence often rages there and sweeps away a multitude of People for the Wind intercepts the free passage of the Wind and Air and occasions a stifling Heat and the good Water they have is brought on Camels Backs from Boulac in Bourachios which is half a League from the City and this Water is sold very dear This City is exceeding large and full of People being in the form of a Crescent yet is narrow and may be compassed in two Hours and a quarters Walking It is surrounded with many stateley Pallaces of the Beys and other great Men of the Country the Houses are little but full of People so that when the Plague sweeps away 200000 it is hardly perceived especially in a little time after The Walls have handsom Battlements and Towers at less than 100 Paces interval able to hold many Soldiers they appear to have been very Stately but at present mostly ruinous The Castle likewise is much decayed the Turks being Supine make little account of repairing them near the Walls are large Church Yards full of Sepulchers adorned with fair Stone that gives a pleasant Prospect and all agree that in this City there are 23000 Precincts and as many Mosques there being one in a Precinct at least A Precinct is a set part and in some of them there are several Streets and each Precinct is watched by two Men Chained together to prevent them from separating and they demand certain dues of the Inhabitaints and Strangers the Sons-Bassa keeps the Keys of the Padlocks that lock up their Chains The Streets here are short and narrow except the Street of Bazar and the Khalis which is dry but 3 Months in the Year and few People frequent it the rest are little turning and winding which makes me believe the Houses were first built without any design of compacting them into a City every one placing his House on the ground he liked best to build on without considering whether they stopped the Street or not Some Mosques are very Magnificent with curious
Ghost descended on the Day of Penticost Not far from hence we beheld the Sepulchers of David and Solomon This Mountain was formerly within the compass of the Walls of Jerusalem but Selim the Turkish Sultan rebuilding them it was excluded and the City much streightned We saw many other things hereabouts as the Iron Gate the House of Zebedec and that of the High Priest Annas the place where St. James was beheaded the Houses of St. Thomas and Mark the Prison of St. Peter whence he was delivered by the Angel c. And now returning a little again to Jerusalem I shall give somewhat more of its Description than hitherto I have done This Famous City is seated on a Barren Mountanous Ground for the most part it produces no Food but at a distance the Land is exceeding Fertile The Streets are narrow and crooked the Building but indifferent all the Ancient Magnificence being in a manner laid in Rubbish it has 6 Gates viz. That of Ephraim the Gates of Bethlehem Jaffa Damascus Zion and the Dungate and one that is walled up called the Golden-Gate because our Saviour entered in Triumph at it the Sheep-Gate is not reckoned as being much ruined The Turks keep them all shut at Noon-Prayer because they have a Prophecy that at that time the Christians shall surprize Jerusalem and particularly on a Friday on which Day they are very apprehensive it will happen not far from the Golden-Gate there is a Pillar bearing out of the Wall like a Cannon and on this the Turks have a foolish Opinion that Mahomet shall sit at the Day to see whether Christ Judges the Christians Uprightly and if he does Mahomet will give him his Sister in Marriage with a great Portion and then changing himself into a great Sheep he shall fly up in the Air a vast heighth with the Mahometans entangled in his Wool and there shake himself terribly and such as can hold fast shall go with him into Paradise but such as fall off shall drop into Hell The Walls of this City are fair and strong Again leaving Jerusalem I went with a considerable Company to visit Emans and Jaffa the first of these is but 2 Leagues and an half from Jerusalem by the way stands the Well where our Loâ—â—… appeared to the two Disciples after his Resurrection a little further is the Castle where our Lord was known to them in breaking Bread which is now very ruinous and the Village is of little account there being very few Houses and those inconsiderable which made us keep on by the way of Ramah to Jaffa which is 4 Leagues beyond it This Jaffa was Anciently called Joppa It is built on the Top of a Rock and is altogether Ruinous there remaining no more than some Towers and the Port at the Foot of the Rock and to a crag of this Rock it is Fabled Andromeda was tied when Perseus the Son of Jupiter and Danae delivered her from the Sea Monster Here the Prophet Inah embarked when he fled from the Face of God Here St. Peter raised Tabitha Acts 9. and saw the Sheet let down from Heaven Acts 10. There are Grots by the Sea-side for Pilgrims to rest in there is also a little Castle with two Towers one round the other square and a great Tower separated from it on one side but no Houses by the Sea The Port has but little Water in it and none but small Barks can come up with the Fortresses Mount Carmell being but a little distance from hence by Water I agreed with others to take small Vessels to visit it but we met with a Storm by the way that much endangered us but at length we arrived safely there and lodged in the Village of Cayplias which by the Ruins appears to have been formerly a considerable Town it is at the Foot of the Mountain and the next Morning we ascended the Mountain where we found a Convent of bare-footed Fryars called Carmelites these observe a very strict Rule neither eating Flesh nor drinking Wine totally Sequestring themselves from the World nor will they suffer others to do it in their Convent This is the place where the Prophet Elias lived and there is in this Mount as they say a Garden of Stone Mellons which happened on this wise the Prophet asking the Man to give him some of that he was gathering he to put him off told him they were Stones when immediately they proved so indeed by turning into Stone they shewed us one of these but would not shew us the place where they grew least we should covet to carry them away however they feasted us with Fruits boiled Roots and gave us Water to Drink for though the Hill is Rockey ye by their industry they have raised many Fruit-Trees and have variety of good Flowers Then we saw the Well Elias made to spring out of the Ground and another little Well by it we saw a little distant from these the Grot or Cave of Elias and Elisha it is cut very smooth in the Rock above and below near 20 Paces in length and 15 in breadth and very high The Turks have built a little Mosque by it This Mountain and the Country about it is commanded by an Emir or Prince who pays the Grand Signior a Tribute of Twelve Horses I forgot to tell you of Mount Libanus so famed for its tall Cedars but such wast has been made of them that I could number great and small but 23. There is a Church and Monastery in it there is a Patriarch belonging to it that lives at a Village beneath called Cannobin Thus much for the Holy Land whose Fame has over-spread the World CHAP. IX Travels through Syria and divers other Countries towards the Kingdom of Persia with many remarkable Things occuring in so long and hazardous a Journey by Land and Water HAving heard many Famous Things reported of Persia too many here to enumerate and being recruited with Bills of Exchange and other Advantages for Travelling it being a curiosity I was enclined too from my tender Years I found an opportunity to go in good Company for Damascus This City is still in good Reputation and has six Gates viz. the East Gate the Sphaies or Seraglio Gate the Shoo Gate the Gate of Paradise the Gate of Peace and St. Thomas's Gate This City is an Hour and a quarters walk round it but the Suburbs are as big again as the Town It has in it many stately Buildings some New others of great Antiquity having been Anciently the Capital City of Syria but being on a Journey I had not much leasure to view it or few other Towns or Cities on the way therefore I shall but lightly touch on them in my Passage From hence we parted for Aleppo which is one of the most considerable Cities of the Ottoman Empire in Asia by reason of the great Trade Merchants drive there it is as large as Damascus and has a fruitful Country lying about it The Walls are
especially in Golfa lying beyond the River Sendera which is mostly inhabited by Armenians transplanted by Sheba Abba a Persian Sultan when he utterly razed their Town of that Name in Armenia About this great City are cantoned People of divers other Nations and there is hardly any Country in Europe Asia or Africa but there are Natives of them to be found here In this City there are many Squares which render it lovely the greatest of which is that of Meidan it has regular Piazza's and is about 700 common Paces in length and near 300 in breadth it is built round and the Houses are all in the form of Porticoes over them is a second range of Arches more backward and these serve for Galleries and Passages the Houses being all of an equal heighth give a curious Prospect There is a pleasant Canal near it bordered with Palm-Trees and fed by a Spring at the end of which is a Bell said to be taken out of a Nunnery in Ormus with this Inscription Ave Maria Gratia plena Hail Mary full of Grace Hither the Musicians resort there being a Gallery and sound several Instruments to divert the People especially in the Night time and amongst others a Trumpet of Copper which is 8 Foot long making a strong hoars sound and may be heard in a still Night all over the City being almost in proportion like a speaking Trumpet Passing on to the Right or West side is the Gate of Aly their great Prophet on the Threshold of it which is a round Stone the Persians out of a Veneration for the place will not tread on and if Malefactors can escape into the Court beyond it or in the King's Stables or Kitchin they are in a Sanctuary none daring to remove them from thence This Gate is plain and guarded by Sofies-men of great account there and many Persians out of Devotion kneel and kiss the Threeshold e'er they pass over it The Street of Techebarbag or the four Gardens is very large near 100 Paces broad and about 2 Itallion Miles in length There is a by way into it from the King's Pallace through narrow Passages as it were a Curtain it s watered with a Canal and adorned with shadowing Plan-Trees being divided by the River Senderu over which is a curious Bridge of Stone with a Gallery covered and raised above the Level for Foot Passengers it s about 300 Paces long and 20 broad founded on many Arches some Brick edged with Free-Stone and others all of Stone Over the Gallery there is a Platform giving a fine Prospect of the River and other places the Gallery serves likewise for a Horse-way in the Winter for then the overflowing of the River fills up the middle of the Bridge and renders it a kind of a Canal The Gates of the King's Pallace and the Front of it gives a good Prospect as do the Mosques being adorned with Domes and other Beautifyings but the Christians are forbidden to enter under the Penalty of gross affronts if not a good Cudgeling though some of them out of curiosity do it in Persian Habits mingling themselveâ— with the rest and so pass undistinguished amongst which I took my Lot and saw their curious Cielings Paintings Mosaick-Work fine Marble and many other curious things As for their Burying-places they are without the City and so they are in all the Cities of Persia They have a curious way to secure the hot Air in sultry Weather viz. They have on the tops of their Houses a Wall about 2 Fathom high and as much in breadth to which at the intervals of other Walls of about a Foot broad and as high as the first are joyned in right Angels and these are covered with a Roof so that let the Wind blow which way it will the Air being pressed between 3 Walls is driven through a hole in the Roof of the House and diffuses coolbreathings cool breathings but in Winter this hole is stopped This City is full of Artists and each Company pays the King a certain Sum which they raise again upon all the Crafts and they are very dextrous in their several Handicrafts in which principally consists the riches of the Kingdom In the King's Court the Turkish Language is mostly spoke but much differing from what is spoke at Constantinople this distinguishes the Courtiers from the rest of the People and gives them certain Authorities and Preeminencies they affect for they covet Honour above all things and are profuse in their Diet Habit Houses and Equipages which renders many Noble Families Poor Their Equipage in Travelling is extraordinary They smoak much Tobacco and usually do it through a Vessel of Water Their Games are chiefly Chess and Draughts which they use in their Visits There are amongst them a great many Mathematicians and Astrologers and the King maintains many hundreds of them liberally though most of them appear to be very ignorant However these are their chief Studies They have also Dreamers among them who pretend to see and foretel things that way If a Man has killed another the Widow or next Relation demands the satisfaction of his Blood and if it be not made up for Money the Murtherer if taken is delivered to the Prosecutor who puts him to Death with great Torments especially if he falls into the Hands of a Woman for they are more cruel here than the Men and though they often compound yet the Relations that are not consenting to it will privately revenge the Blood of their Friend concluding their Honour suffers if the Murtherer escapes unpunished If any one has been Robbed he must make a present to the Deroga who is the same in Office with the Sons or Sub-Bassa in the Turkish Government He sends his Men abroad to take up suspected Persons and puts them to the Rack to make them confess and if the Goods be recovered he takes a tenth and sometimes a sixth part but he seems to be kinder to the Franks taking only a present of them though may times by concealing the discovery he cheats them of all As for the Habits of the Persians they are more gaudy than substantial or lasting generally waring flower'd Silks or Callicoes quilted Coats and the like having a flowing loose Garment over a close Coat or Wastcoat with a Girdle their Drawers down to their Heels their Stockings are of Cloth wide and big their Shoos are like Womens Slippers with high Heels peaked at the Toes with a bit of Iron but so short that most part of the Heel hangs over though they stick close and are covered with Shagreen They ware Turbans very large and of divers colours except the Moulla's who are Priviledged to wear them white though the Persians ware Caps with little Turbans about them and the better sort have them embroidered with Gold and Silver They take a Pride to have every piece of their Apparrel of a different colour and affect neatness As for Rings the Men nay the King himself wears Silver
liberty of Conscience to all Strangers and there are at Ispahan a great many Jews Banians Guebres and Armenians who pursue their several Tenents They have a great many Horses Mules and Camels at all Seasons and though these things are here set down many of the Particulars may serve in General for all Persia and therefore having been detained in this City too long I fear from the intended Travels I now take my leave of it to proceed on my Journey CHAP. XV. Travels from Ispahan to Ormus and Bassaru in the Persian Gulf with an Observation of many Places and Things by the way of Persia in General c. HAving stayed about 4 Months at Ispahan I resolved to visit Schiras and took the opportunity of a Caravan then setting out we parted early in the Morning and journied South-east meeting in our way with large Plains very barren some of these produced pieces of Salt Earth made by the Salive part of the Ground and the working of the Rain on it and this being refined makes good Salt leaving these Plains we encountered with Hills very difficult to pass because though not high they were Rockey and very Slippery so that many of the Mules cast their Burthens which proved very troublesome to us and took up much time to reload them but having passed these Hills we came to Mayar a ruined Village which is the beginning or entrance into the Country of Fars the real Ancient Persia and there we lodged in a Kervanserai and going from thence had for a good way a pleasant Country on either side of us fruitful in Trees and Corn Ground but meeting with a Chan and his Harams or Women we were forced to fetch a compass to give free Passage for these great Governors in their Provinces are as Absolute as a King and will have their Commands as strictly obeyed It will be in a manner endless to tell you all the Villages Hills Plains Valleys and Rivers by their Names that we passed in this long and tedious Journey therefore for brevity sake in a tired condition I hasten as fast as I can to Schirars This City is the Metropolis of the Ancient Persia some will have it to be the Ancient Cyropolis the Gates we enter'd at were very Fair and Stately leading to a broad Street bordered with Gardens and at the end of it is a large Stone Bason full of Water to refresh Travellers further there is a Bridge with 5 Arches under which runs a small River and a little beyond a covered Bazar and though this Street is very fair and long it is accounted only the Suburb to the City It lies in a pleasant fertile Plain at the East of it where is a little Hill covered with Orange and Lemon Trees intermixed with Cypresses It lies from North to South and is about two Hours walk in Circumference It has many fair Mosques and a Colledge in it There are Sallaries allowed to divers Learned Men in the latter to teach Theology Philosophy and Physick and sometimes there are 4 or 500 Students in the it The Gates are laid over with blue Earth varnished shining like Saphires The Gardens are exceeding pleasant adorned with Fruits Flowers Canals Fountains and Summer-Houses on little raised Mounts but many of the Houses are ruinous for the Persians are very Supine in repairing decayed Fabricks This is a City of great Trade in comparison of many others by reason the Indian Merchants bring the rich Commodities of that Country hither There is a Well of a vast depth and circumference into which they throw Women convicted of Adultery and there suffer them miserably to Perish it is cut all out of a hard Rock A little distant there is a stately Mosque and in it the Tomb of Scheik Sadi an excellent Persian Poet whom they Honour as a Saint There is a Well not far from this and a Stream running under it full of Fish which none may take on pain of Death unless the Dervish who looks after it connive at them which he will do for a little present and keep off all Spies by pretending there are Women in the Wells and then the Men run away as from some fearful Monster One goes down to it by a pair of Stairs There is much Glass made in this City they make a Glass Bottle called a Caraba that will hold near 30 Quarts covering them with Cane or Straw and here is to be found the best Wine in the Kingdom they have abundance of Capers plenty of Rose-Water and preserve Grapes for the whole Year A Vizar Governs here as the King's Farmer and pays yearly 1000 Tomans amounting to 15000 Crowns We stayed here but 2 Days and then set out for Lar in our way to Bender and passing over Plains Hills and Rivers meeting by the way whole Families of Arabs driving their Cattle we arrived there This Town is small and seated on a Rock it is Commanded by a Chan who has a stately House with a Divan it has a fine Market-place a Bazars and a Castle the last is very strong and built all of Stone There are a great many Jews inhabit and drive a considerable Trade here all the Country about Lar is full of Tamarisks that are very large here and in most parts of Persia the Sparrows being in great numbers destroy and wast the Fruits of the Earth exceedingly Taking a good refreshment in this Town we took our way through a Country much like the former we had passed since our leaving Ispahan and by tiresome Journeys came to Bender-Abassi where we no sooner entred but were carried to the Custom-House and had our Goods searched in our way I should have told you grew poysonous Plants of which a strange story goes viz. That if any Man comes near them in June ot July when South Winds from the Sea blows upon them they send forth such a poysonous Vapour which drawn in with the breath causes the Body all over to be in a burning heat and immediately the Party dies so that in those Months the way is little frequented The Persians affirm this for Truth and call the plants Kherzehreb but this infection is rather concluded by the Judicious to be in that Wind they call the Burying-Wind This Town is very little govern'd by a Chan and is of a prodigious Traffick as being commodiously Scituated for Trade the Schah Bender is the chief Custom-House Officer part of which Customs belong by right to the English by a Contract when they assisted the Persian King in taking Ormus but they have been much defrauded and reap litlit benefit It has only one publick Gate a Bazar and a Fort to the Sea-side which is a square Platform of about 4 Fathom each Face and 2 in heighth there not being above 5 or 6 Port-holes for great Guns the English and Dutch have their Houses by the Sea-side and the proper Flags of the Nations fixed on Poles on the Tarrasses to direct Ships thither About 2 Leagues
Kingdoms viz. Narsinga Malavar Ballasia Cambaia Mandao Bengala Aristan Comora and Dellia The second seven viz. Macine Aracan Couchin-Chian Baram Siam Pegue Malavar The whole Country seems to take its denomination from the vast River Indus which runs 1000 Miles e'er it falls into the Sea and the Empire of the Great Mogul is the Principle many of the others being petty Kings some of them paying him Tribute and his Territories are usually called the Mogulistan The present Great Mogul is held to descend directly from the line of Tamarlan the Tartar whose Successors setled in the Indies and took to themselves the Name of Moguls to distinguish them from those to whom that Prince left Zagalay Persia Coraffau with other Countries to be Govern'd after him and they concluding this Name would contribute to the Glory of the Family because the People would be the more easily perswaded they are of the Race of the great Ginguiscan the first Emperour of the Ancient Moguls It has been successively maintained for many Generations and is a mighty Empire established in India As for Mogul is was anciently the Name of a mighty People Inhabiting a Country at the extreamity of East-Tartary inclining towards the North which others have called Mongul and Mongal some Mogulistan where Ginguiscan was Born and that Emperour reduced it wholly under his Obedience before he proceeded to the Conquest of the rest of Asia and both himself and Subjects were called Moguls The Great Mogul is said to carry 300000 Horse into the Field with him when he makes War beside a considerable Army of Foot yet the most knowing Indians say though he pays so many there is not above half of them in Arms at once The great Men that Command usually for their own advantage it being the most they have to live on double the Muster-Roll He has in his Dominions 20 Provinces or Governments and those that have made them more have mistaken by making two of one The true bounds of his Empire to the West are Macram or Sinde and Candabar On the East it reaches to the River Ganges on the South it is limitted by the Gulf of Bengala the great Sea and Decan on the North by a part of Tartary It extends from East to West above 400 Leagues and from North to South 500 and this vast space some Mountains and Desarts excepted is very much replenished with Cities Towns Castles Boroughs and pleasant Villages and the Country about them very fruitful in Corn Rice Fruits c. In the Province of Guzerat in this Empire is the Town of Surat of which I have spoke something already It lies in 22 Degrees 7 Minutes North Latitude watered by the River Tapty The Walls were formerly of Earth but they are framing now of Brick 2 Fathom and an half thick and of the same heighth being cautioned so to do for its better defence upon its being plundered by Raja Savegi who made himself Master of great Riches though he took not the Castle nor was able to force the Factories of the Europeans who had Fortified them with Cannon and making a stout defence saved their Goods from the spoil This Raja had his Government in the Mountains and did great mischiefs in India though Aurenzeb the Mogul or Emperor did all he could to prevent it In building the new Wall a great many Houses are left out of the Town especially those built of Cane When the Mousson or Monson a Wind that serves for Trade of Shiping blows the Town is full of People so that 't is difficult to get any Lodging and this is in January February March part of April and sometimes all that Month. It is Inhabited by Indians Persians Arabians Armenians Turks European Christians and some few other Nations though the proper Inhabitants are divided into 3 Orders the first of these include the Indian Moors and others of the Mahometan Religion the second are Gentils or Heathens who adore Idols the third are the Parsis who are likewise called Guares or Artechpirest adorers of Fire professing the Religion of the ancient Persians and these retired into India when Caylif Oman reduced Persia under the Power of the Mahometans The Banians are here the richest Merchants some of them being held to be worth 8 Millions of Crowns The Dutch particularly among other Europeans have driven a great Trade here as did the English and these had Houses assigned them for their Factories called Lodges very neatly built The Castle is built on the side of the River Tapty and is a Fort of moderate bigness and of good strength it stands at the South end of the Town and defends the Entry against those that would attack it It is square and flanked at each corner with large Towers The Ditches on 3 sides are filled with the Sea Water and the 4th which is on the West is washed by the River In this Castle the Mogul's Revenues gathered in the Province are kept and never sent to Court without Order On the West side there is a stately Gate to enter at which is in the Bazar or Meiden and this Castle has a particular Governor and the Town has another The Houses of the Rich are but meanly built of Timber Brick Lime and Tiles and most of these being fetched a great way renders building very dear by reason there is no Stone in this Province They make their Laths of Bambous Cane and they chuse by reason of the excessive heat of the Sun which drys and craks so fast to build when it Rains rather than in dry weather As for the Houses of the ordinary sort they are made of Cane and covered with Palm branches The Streets are large and even but not Paved They spare the Oxen here to Till the Land and carry Burthens feeding on Cow-Beef especially for the most part they have good Mutton and abundance of Poultry and eat with their Meats the Oyl of Cnicus Sylvestris or wild Saffron the best in the Indies also that of Sesamum which is common but not so good They have white and red Grapes there but they make an eager and unpleasant Wine because the heat is so excessive they have not deliberation enough to ripen nor is the strong Waters drunk there much better it is made of Jagre a a kind of course black Sugar dissolved in Water with the bruised Bark of the Baboul-Tree and so Distilled They make strong Water likewise of Tary and draw a Brandy from Rice Sugar and Dates which however is but very sorry stuff and kills many of the Europeans who coming a long Voyage too suddenly fasten on those Liquors and drink intemperately They infuse these ingredients likewise in Water and by setting them in the Sun make Vinegar At Surat are sold all sorts of Stuffs and Cotten Cloth that are made in the Indies likewise a great many European Commodities and those of China as Purceline Cabinets and Coffers adorned with Turquois Agats Cornelian Ivory and all sorts of Embellishments here are
they were forced to raise the Siege and leave their Tents Artillery and Ammunition with 1000 wounded Men in their Camp though the Turks in their Passage had seized Aden by Treachery and strangled the King of that place At Diu is made the Stone Cobra so famous for antedoting the biting or stinging of Serpents it is composed of the Ashes of a burnt Root mingled with a kind of an Earth they get under the Rocks and making these into a Paste they form the Stone of it then they prick the Wound and letting a little Blood out they apply the Stone leaving it till it falls off of it self it has the same effect on Wounds made by Poyson'd Weapons and after that put into Womans or Cows Milk it leaves the Poyson it has sucked in and if it be not so used it will burst There are two other Towns of Note in this Province viz. Nariad and Mamadebad where they make store of Stuffs the latter furnishing this and adjacent Provinces with Cotton Thread The income of this Province to the Mogul's Treasury is accounted Twenty millions and five hundred thousand French Livres yearly Travelling on I entred the Province of Agra which I reckoned the largest in the Mogul's Territories Agra which gives it the Name is the Capital Town in it It is distant from Surat 210 Leagues and is seated on the River Gemna in 28 Degrees and an half North Latitude The River has its source in the Mountains to the North of Dehly and increasing by the way it is here considerable and passing through large Countries empties it self into the great River Ganges at the Town of Halbas Mogul Ecbar made Agra a City it being before but a Borough and establishing the Seat of his Empire there called it Ecbar Abad or the Habitation of Ecbar joyning several Villages by other Buildings to enlarge it He fortified it very well with a Castle and Walls of great heighth and strength and had his Pallace in the Castle containing 3 Courts with Porches adorned with Gilding and Painting nay some pieces plated with Massy Gold There are many stately Sepulchers Baths Pillars and other things of great Antiquity And here Aureng Zebe Imprisoned Cha-Gehan his Father when he mounted to the Throne and in that confinement he died who has a little Sepulcher erected to his Memory There are in Agra a great many Christian Families some reckon 5000 but the computation is not agreed on The Dutch hold a Factory in this Town and for the greater encouragement of Travellers the Foursdar an Officer in the nature of a Sheriff is obliged to make restitution to those that are Robbed and this is punctually observed in all or most of the Provinces Here are Elephants Antelopes Leopards and other Beasts that they use in their Games for fighting I saw here Green Pidgeons and the Indians have a cunning way to catch them in the Water for they go into the Rivers Naked and keep their Bodies under Water their Heads only remaining above which is covered with a Cap of Feathers in the Form of a Water-Fowl so without scaring them draw them under Water by the Legs In the Mountains about 5 days Journey from hence they Hunt and take store of Merovers or wild Cows of which Hunting they make great advantage Their Pictures in Agra are pretty well done but mostly in bandy Postures exceeding Active being purposely drawn to stir up lacivious desires and therefore I shall pass them over The Agrians are the best Workmen I ever met withal in working Gold on Agat Christal and other brittle things which few of our Lapidaries or Goldsmiths can do or if they can fall short in equalling them Passing from Agra I came to Fetipour once the Seat of the Empire but now not much considerable except for its lovely Meidan and Mosque the entry of Ecbar's Pallace and some stately Pillars scattered up and down it was slighted as they say because all the Springs about it were brackish and unwholesome I was informed in this Province there are upwards of 3400 Towns and Villages of which next to what I have named these are the Chief viz. Bernzabad Chitopour Bargant Mirda Hindon Ladono Chalaour Byana Canova and Scanderbade most of these produce Manufactures of Stuffs Silks Tapestry c. and the Revenues of this Province mount very near to that of Guzerat Next we entered the Province of Dehly by difficult ways because the Rains had made the Rivers swell in many places It bounds on Agra to the North and Dehly the Principal Town of the Province is about 45 Lergues from Agra and Mogul Cah Gehan and Aureng Zeb made it the Royal Seat of the Empire the way is all along planted with curious Trees in a Line and each half League is marked with a kind of a Turret and there are conveniencies by the way for Travellers to shelter and rest in There is by the way likewise an ancient Heathen Temple visited by the Gentiles who provide necessaries for a great many Apes that are kept there and they pay a kind of a blind Devotion to them as the Creatures of the Pagods Dehly seems to be composed of certain Villages and there is the Ruins of a Town which the Indians say was the Regal Seat of King Porus famed in History for the Wars he maintained against Alexander the Great There is to be seen a Piramid or Obelisk of Stone with an Inscription in very ancient Characters which they say Alexander erected in Memory of his Victory over Porus but the Character not being Greek renders it doubtful This City lies in an open Champion Country washed by the River Gemna it has a Fortress half a League in circumference with a strong Wall and a round Tower every 10 Battlements being secured by a Ditch wharfed with Stone and a Garden round it In this Fortress the Mogul holds his Pallace and keeps the Ensigns of his Royalty and from hence he beholds the fighting of Elephants and other pastimes at Land as also on the River and towards the Town is a large place where the Rajas in the Mogul's Pay Encamp as his Guard The Market is kept in a fine Square where abundance of Juglers and Fellows pretending to Conjuration shew Tricks All the Mogul's Attendance in the Pâ—llace shew him a profound Reverence standing demure before him with their Hands a cross upon their Breasts none daring speak unless Commanded and at Noon every Day he gives Audience to such as have recourse to him for Justice administring it Impartially without respect of Persons There is a stately Hall wherein he gives Audience to his Ministers about affairs of State and those of his Houshold and in this Pallace is a Throne of Massie Gold set with Flowers of Diamonds Emerald Rubies and other precious Stones and a Peacock made out in all its Colours with Gold Silver and precious Stones insomuch that it resembles the Life and is of vast value They say these were begun by Tamarlan
the Woods to gather wild Fruit for tho' we searched and stayed for them they returned not nor could be found which made the rest more cautious to venture too far Leaving this Island we Sailed within sight of the Land of Puerto Rico and then of St. Domingo a very large Island and here the Ships separated to the several Ports they were bound as Havana Honduras Jucatan and others yet we kept together 4 Sail being bound for the Mexicaian Province and came into the Sound where we found the Sun it being in August exceeding hot and afflicted us the more because we were becalmed and one of the Sailers in the Evening leaping into the Sea to cool himself by Swiming was unfortunately seized on by a Monsterous Fish which they called a Tiburon a kind of Crocadil that pulled him under Water and devoured him who 's surprizing Tragedy became a warning to the rest yet hoping to be revenged we let down two large Hooks fastned back to back with a strong Rope and Baited with a stone of flesh and took one of these Fish but not the Murderer as we found by his Gorge when we opened him he was as much as Sixteen men could Hawl on the Deck tho' they let down a noose Rope under him to hold him fast hampered he proved to be 12 yards long and being killed the Spaniards cut him up and salted part of his flesh which had something of the Tast of Beef in it being very firm and hard and soon after a fresh gale Springing up and we had sailed a few Leagues the man at the Topmast-head cryed out Land which did not a little rejoyce us for the hot weather on those broad Seas had rendred us faint and sickly but it being near Sunset and the Coast dangerous to enter on in the night time we lay off till the next morning and then stood into a part rockey on either side and presently discovered it to be Vera Crux otherwise called St. John d' Vlliua and came so near in 6 Fathom Water that by a Cable we fastned our Ship that entered foremost by Cable Ropes to the Rings that were placed for that purpose in the Wall of the Fort which we saluted with our Guns In this place Hernando Cortz the famous Spanish Captain first entered when he made his Conquests in Mexico sinking his Ships that his Souldiers might be the more resolute in the undertaking as having all hopes of returning cut off and with a Handful of men did such Exploits that made the World Amazed and this being the Port to which our Ships were bound we went Ashoar CHAP. XXII Travels from St. John D' Ulha to the great City of Mexico describing the Towns in the Way Countries lying about them with many other things and Relations Antient and Modern from the first Conquest made by the Spaniards to this present time THE proper name of this Sea-port Towns is St. John d' Vlha the other Vera Crux being given to it from the old Haven or Harbour of Vera Crux lying 6 Leagues from it for that proving dangerous for Ships to ride at Anchor in by reason of the violent North Winds it was forsaken and the Spaniards removed hither as being more safe by the means of a Rock which skreens off that Wind and here were the first Majestrates Judges Aldermen and Officers of Justice named Great was the Concourse of the People when we landed and the Religious who have Monasteries here received us in procession because they understood there were some Missionaries on board sent out of Spain to assist in converting the Indians and upon the Account of some of them who took particular notice of me during the Voyage I had a very good Lodging appointed me and great Feasting was made with store of Fowl and Fish of which the Country is very plentiful and as a last Course Sweet meats and Chocolett were brought in Te Deum was sung in the Cathedral Church and some Shows presented but my mind being bent an other way I little minded these things I rested the day of Landing with my Companions and the next took a survey of the Town and places about it I compassed it in 3 quarters of an hour and found the Scituation to be on Sandy ground except on the South West where it is Moorish and full of noisome Bogs at a little distance which in hot weather causes it to be somewhat unhealthy the People in it are generally Rich and the Inhabitants may as near as I could compute be between 3 or 4000. The Houses Churches and Cloisters are mostly built with Timber the Streets are few yet have intercourse by narrow Lanes or other passages so that it has been often much Indamaged by Fire The Trade is considerable there from Mexico as being the convenientest part also from Cuba St. Domingo Jucatan Portoello and by the way of the latter from Peru Cartagena and all the Islands lying on the North Sea There is a Castle on the Entrance founded on a Rock and another Rock that makes the Entrance of shipping unacquainted with the Harbour very difficult each are the chiefest Strength of the Town and under these the Ships lie safe at Anchor sheltred against the fury of the North Wind which is many times there very violent so that the Houses in the Town Rock and Totter exceedingly that the Strangers conclude they are falling on their Heads The next day I found a great many Mules brought by the Owners to be Lett to such as had a mind to leave the place and Travel further I embraced this opportunity and sent on Board to bring my Baggage on Shoar which I Laded on one of them and retained another to ride on and so taking leave of those whose Business or Curiosity detain'd them longer I set forward to visit Mexico a famed City and the chiefest in these parts but at a considerable distance from St. John de Vellun The Road from hence for three or four Leagues I found very Sandy but open and convenient for Travelling and without meeting with any thing remarkable I came to Oldvera Crux Inhabited by Spaniards and Indians the Indians met us a considerable way from the Town and offered us all the kind respect imaginable sounding their rustick Musicks and Dancing before us Tuning their Voices which was more Melodious than their Musick and indeed entring the place we were very civily receiv'd as Strangers the people crowding to ask what News from Spain and of the Affairs of Europe we satisfy'd their Curiosity as well as the time would permit and then they brought us Flowers and Sweet-meats and we presented them with divers European trifles of which they seem'd very fond rather for the sake of whence they came than for their value They Conducted us to the Market-place which is in the middle of the Town and made Arbours of green Boughs under two large spreading Elmes for us to repose in and refresh our selves and
so wicked as to act such Villany This Country gives a pleasant prospect and abounds in all things necessary for human support here grows the famous Tree so much Written of which if a man touch but one of the Branches with his Finger it presently whither 's There are great Flocks of Parrots as of Crows or Pigeons in England also Turkeys Quailes Rabbits The Spanish Cities here have a Bishop's See and Granada standing on a Lake of fresh Water about 300 miles in compass which continually Ebbs and Flows though it has no intercourse with the Ocean And thus much having thought fit to speak of the Mexicon Provinces and the Dominion of Spain wherein I mostly Travelled I now come to speak in their Order of the Peruanian parts for richness in Gold and other Mettals This principally contains 5 large Countries as I have already hinted This Southern part of India is held to be Richer than the Northern for although it wants the conveniency of Traffick by the Northern Sea which the other has and is therefore obliged to send its Commodities to Pannama and from thence have them Transported over the Streight or Isthmus by the River Chiagree to Portabel upon the North-Sea yet the great store of Gold Silver and other Mettal make richly amends for their pains and Travel and such store is found that a Prohibition or Injunction is laid by the Court of Spain not to open new Mines till the old ones are sufficiently wrought the huge Mountains of Potosi are thought to consist mostly of Gold-oar and here grow all such Fruits as are found in Spain beside many others natural to the Country the Olives are larger than those of Spaia the Oyl sweeter and clearer the Grapes yield Wine stronger than Spanish Wine and here they have more Liberty than in Mexico to make it because it cannot be so well brought from Spain they have store of Wheat and other Grain the Soil all lying under the high Mineral Mountains being very Fruitful the Water that descends fatning the Valleys for there is but little Rain and the Evening and Morning Dews give great refreshment The Vice-Roy has his Residence in the City of Lima a place much subject to Earthquakes and of late has been terribly shaken and almost destroyed by 'em there is held a Court of Chancery and it is an Arch-Bishop's See It is well fortified since the Bucaniers have made so many Depradations and Pyracies on the Coast two Miles from it is a convenient Harbour or Port called Callau where the Ships lie that convey the Treasure to Panama and other Ships that Trade to divers parts and beside Casteella Aura or Golden Casteel Chille is very Rich in Golden Mines which has caused an obstinate War between the Spaniards and Indians that Inhabit it who are very hardy and dextrous at Fire-Arms most part of them being the Sons of Spanish Women by Indians so that a great many of the best Soldiers out of the Neatherlands and Italy have been sent thither under an Experienced Captain who has the Command as a Recompence for his Service in Europe The Spaniards by their Wars have got strong footing and are possessed of 3 principal Cities beside many Towns of Note as the Conception which is a Bishop's See Santjago and Valdivia this latter took its Name from a Governor so called whose thirst of Gold through Covetousness to grow Rich on a sudden in using great Oppression made the Indians of Chille break out into a Bloody War and surprizing him in his House poured melted Gold down his Throat saying Since he had so eargerly coveted it he should have his fill of it and so much of it as should last him all his Life-time and accordingly it did for the scalding Mettal presently killed him but the War ended not with his Death but has at times continued ever since As for Guiana and Brasil the latter belonging to the Crown of Portugal and States of Holland by reason of their remoatness I had not an opportunity to Travel there and since I can speak little of them than what I have from Report viz. that they are Rich and Flourishing Provinces I shall pass them over and return again to Castella Aure in the Southern or Peruanian Track This containeth the North part of Peru and part of the Isthmus that runneth between the North and South-Sea and beside the Gold in it it is plentifully stored with Silver Pearl Spices Medicinal Herbs and Drugs it is divided into 4 Provinces the first is called Castella del oro the second Nova Andaluzia the third Nova Granada the fourth Carthagena Castella del oro is Situate in the very Isthmus and not over peopled by reason of the unhealthful Air occasioned by the noysom Vapours arising from large standing Lakes or Pools the chief places here belonging to the Spaniards are Theomimay or Nombre de Dias on the East the second which lies 6 Leagues from Nombre de Dios is Portabel chiefly Inhabited by Spaniards Mulottos and Blackamoors this latter has a very fair and goodly Haven from whence it seems to derive its Name well fortified at the Entrance with 3 Castles where the Guns reach and Command one another in these places Drake braved the Spaniards and did Exploits worthy the Fame of his Countrey Nombre de Dios so called by Didacus Niquesa who after many crosses at Sea first Landed here Founding this and Portobel is now in a manner forsaken by reason of the little Commodiousness or Security of the Harbour lying open to the insults of Pyrates and more for the unhealthfulness of the Air coming off the Sea and some Lakes near it so that it was once removed by an Order from the Court of Spain in hopes that the Air might become more healthful in placing it some little distance from the Sea but it little availed In this part of the Indies it was that our Valiant tho' Unfortunate Country-Man John Oxenham Arriving with about 60 Companions drew ashore his Ship covered it with Boughs and passing over Land cut down Timber in the Woods of which he made a Pinnace and Navigating the South-Sea took several Spanish Prizes richly Laden with Gold and Silver and safely recovered the main Land but there by the Mutiny of his Company about sharing the Booty all miscarried for they gave the Spaniards time to set upon and cut several of them off among whom he fell Courageously Fighting and so the Riches to the Value of a Million of Duccats which might have plentifully satisfied them all was lost by their division among themselves Nova Andeluza has for its principal City Tocoio by the Spaniards new Named St. Margrets and an other little inferiour to it called St. Espiritu both Rich in Trade and the Country throughout gives a good Prospect of Plenty and Pleasure Nova Granada is Situate on the South-side of Carthagena It contains 6 principal Cities viz. Tungua supposed to be directly under the Aequator Tochamum Popaian a
never opened and that the Moors conceal them out of Avarice to take out what is precious and raise the price of such Rarities to a higher Rate Being let down in one of these Vaults I saw many parts of Bodies but little entire they being much broken and mangled by such as had out of Curiosity carried away pieces of them This place is full of Piramids but most of them very small unless one that never was finished which if compleated had been near in bigness to the largest I have mentioned proportionable to the Basis there are in it Ascending and Descending Alleys at the end of which are 3 Rooms but it not being finished as the rest as to what it might have been is but Conjecture some hold that this mighty Work ceased when Alexander the Great seized on Aegypt and the Greeks wrested the Kingdom from the Race of the Ancient Aegyptian Kings On the other side of the Nile opposite to this place are to be seen the Ruins of the Ancient Memphis where the Aegyptian Kings held their Court but Time and the spoiling Hand of War has made it as Troy a heap of Ruins It seems to have been exceeding large and extended along the River till you come over-against Old Caire so that although I spent many Hours in viewing these Ruins I could find nothing of Note but pieces of Pillars and Images the low Foundations of what seem to have been Ancient Temples and little else Remarkable Returning towards Caire I came to Maltherea 3 Miles distant from the City where are a great many curious shading Orange-Trees and a delicious Spring of Water which is said to have been the abiding place of the Blessed Virgin when she fled with our Saviour into Aegypt There are likewise Mirtle and Lemon-Trees that render the place very pleasant This Spring and Joseph's Well in Caire are all the Springs of Water I could see or hear of in Aegypt That Well is of a prodigious Depth cut in a solid Rock 106 Foot deep yet so broad and winding are the Steps that two Oxen may go down to the bottom where in a Hole is a very curious Spring and that Water is held precious near it are some remains of Pharaoh's Pallace and a Room called Joseph's Hall adorned with Gold and Azure and many Pillars also his Steward's House remarkable for 12 Columns of Thebaick Marble Near to this there is a dreadful Prison in which it is held that Patriarch was cast upon the false Accusation of his Mistress this consists of several Dungeons cut of the Rock and if Tradition be true his case in that place could not but be lamentable for it appears very Dismal and Loathsome The common received opinion that it Rains not in Aegypt is groundless the Showers fall seldomer and less violently than in other places so that a great part of the Country is dry and barren Sand the chief Fertility is occasioned by the melting of the Snow from the Mountains and the overflowing the River Nile of which famous River I come now to speak more particularly This River has its source near the Mountains of the Moon or Jews Mountains in Aethiopia where it is very small but gathers many Rivers in long running which makes it swell much it runs through the length of Aegypt having its course from South to North discharging it self into the Mediterranean Sea by two Mouths making a Triangular Isle by the Greeks called Delta because it resembles the Greek Δ these Mouths are Navigable for large Vessels for though it has others they are less and can properly be called no other than Rivulets It is broader than the Seine and for the most part glides smoothly unless where its Cataracts make it rage and foam by its falling from a great heighth when it overflows it appears like a little Sea the Water is naturally thick and muddy but they have a way to Clarifie it by running it through Vessels filled with white Earth and then it is very wholesome Most of the Cities Towns and Villages are Scituate on its Banks or very near it for the conveniency of Water which is precious in that Country for there are so many Villages that you have scarce passed one but you come at another This River abounds not much with Fish and there is but one good sort found at Caire called a Variole but there are a vast number of Crocodiles in it who no doubt devour the Fish this is an Amphibeous Creature living at pleasure in the Water or on Land the Head of it is flat above and below and the Eyes or it indifferently big and very darkish they have a long sharp Snout with long sharp Teeth but no Tongue to be perceived the Body large and all of a bigness the Back covered with high Scales like the Heads of large Nails of a greenish colour so hard that they are Proof against a Halbert their Tailes are very long covered over with Scales but the Belly is white and pretty tender it has four short Legs with five Claws on the foremost Feet and but four on the hinder It grows as long as it Lives and some are about 20 Foot from Head to Tail these great ones many times snap young Children at Land and sometimes put up their Noses and pull People out of their Boats in the River so that many go with Spikes to prevent their putting up their Noses and it is dangerous to swim where their haunts are But that they Weep when they have taken their Prey is for what I could find a Fable To take these Creatures they make a great many Pits by the River side and cover them with rotten Sticks so that passing over the Sticks give way and they fall in then Men let down a Rope with a running Nooze to muzzle their Snouts and so they draw them up and kill them for their Skins which they sell to Strangers at good Rates None but the Moors will Eat of their Flesh There is also in the River a Hyppopotamuses or Sea-Horse and is of a tawney Colour the hinder part like a Bouffler though its Legs are short yet very thick it has the muzzle of an Ox and some are about the bigness of a Camel its Head resembles that of a Horse and is very great but the Eyes are small the Ears little the Neck thick the Tail like an Elephant's in the lower Jaw it has four Teeth half a Foot long two of them are crooked and as big as the Horn of an Ox in circumference This famous River mainly fertilises Aegypt and without it it would be desolate nay if it should fail but one Year to overflow there would be a Famine in the Land which some hold it did for seven Years when the mighty Famine happen'd in Joseph's time restrained by an Almighty Power but seeing that Famine extended to others Land this may be but Conjectural when it Ebbs it leaves a fat nitreous Slime that greatly enriches the Land and
from the main Land is the Glory of Islands so termed viz. the famed Ormus at the Mouth of the Persian Gulf it is Southward from the main Land the Gulf reaching from thence to Bassera which is in the bottom of it Ormus lies in 27 degrees North Latitude 180 Leagues from Bassora it has a Fort that was built by the Portuguese but taken from them by the great Schah Abbas King of Persia assisted by the English The Island is no more than 3 Leagues in circumference and mostly Rockey but it has gotten its Fame from the Riches that flowed thither from India and Persia as being a considerable Mart especially when the Portuguese held it As for the Water and Provisions they are mostly brought from the main Land and because there is a deficiency of Springs they keep rain Water in Cisterns and little more now is Inhabited beside the Fort round which the Persians have cut a Trench and let the Sea into it by a Canal for it stands on the point of the Island and is the last Province of Persia this way There are great store of Oysters about it about the bigness of ours but much harder to open A League to the South-west is the Island of Lareca it is bigger then Ormus but very Barren the Ground consisting of a burning Sand it reaches in length from North-west to South-east There is little in it except a Fort which was begun by the Dutch but the Persians fearing they would prove ill Neighbours if they fortified it took it out of their Hands and finished it As for Persia in General it is environed with Mountains and Barren Desarts which are main Bulworks against the attempts of powerful Enemies Their is a scarcity of Money which is one main reason they cannot set a great Army on Foot in so vast a Country and this I think proceeds from the smallness of Trade for the Persians are not very industrious all of them standing much on points of Honour There are few or no Fruit-Trees to be found but in Gardens and in most places the Water is bad and Wood exceeding scarce in almost all the Provinces Their chief Manufacture is Silk and some Stuffs There is abundance of Liquorice growing almost every where but little of it set The Country abounds in Brooks which render the ways very bad to Travel in Winter and some Rivers most of which are in Mazandara whose chief is Eschref and most of these Rivers fall into the Caspian Sea Here is the greatest store of Wood in the whole Country of Persia but there are a vast number of Serpents and Scorpions who dying in multitudes during the hot Season corrupt and infect the Air rendering it unwholesome so that in fine Persia is said to be a large Kervanserai that serves for a Passage for the Money and Goods that go out of Asia Turkey and Europe to the Indies and to the Stuffs and Spices returning of which they have a small Profit Designing now I was thus near to vâ—sit the Indies I found some of my Company willing to embrace the opportunity of leaving Ormus and embarking for Bassora at the bottom of the Gulf and accordingly with all our Baggage we safely Arrived and Landed there CHAP. XVI A Brief Account of Aethiopia as I received from Mounsieur du Pau who resided many Years in that Court BEING now at Bassora preparing for a Voyage to the Indies it will not be amiss to entertain you with a brief Relation of Aethiopia or the Country of Abyssins which I had of a French Gentleman I found here who had Travelled in that vast Country and lived some time in the Court and this I the rather set down because I know not whether I shall ever Travel into that famed Country yet I shall be as Brief as may be He told me it was bounded on the East by the Red Sea and Zanguebar on the South by Avousa Ziela Narca c. on the West with Nubia and the Country of Negros on the North with part of Nubia and Bugia and is about 7 Months Travel in Circuit The King has four Kings Tributary to him viz. The King of Senner who pays him Tribute in Horses and lives in an excessive hot Country the King of Naria who pays him Tribute in dust Gold the Kings of Bugia and Dangala who sends their Tribute in Stuffs and Slaves In this Country are Mines out of which Gold is gotten and sent to the Coasts of Saffala and Guinea and these Mines are shallower than in other Countries They have likewise a great deal of Civet which is scraped from the Testacles or rather from an opening slit between or near the Cods of a Civet Cat this Beast is almost as big as a midling Grey-hound with a sharp Nose and Head like a Fox they have Feet Tail and Whiskers like a Cat. When the People of the Country fall out they go before their Scheiks who do the good Office to make them Friends again They anoint their Heads with a strong Oyl extracted from the Root of an Herb to keep them from swarming with Lice which they are very subject to The Provinces of Aethiopia are Gouyan where the King has a Viceroy Beghandir Amara Dambia all very Mountainous Damoud Tygre and Barnegas also other Provinces depending on it Governed by Princes who are his Vassals The Air is in some places temperate but in Senner very hot In this Kingdom are 24 Tambours or Viceroys The Capital City is Gonthar in the Province of Dambia The King has 100 Wives and yet so little Jealous contrary to the Persians and Turks that he keeps no Eunuchs to look after them it being counted a Sin in that Country to geld a Man He is of easie access so that the poorest have freedom to make their complaints to him or speak to him what they are minded He keeps the numerous Children he has by his many Wives on a Mountain called Ouohhni 2 days journy from Gonthar On the top of the Mountain there is a pleasant Cave where they keep them a Nights and in the Day time when they are big enough their Guardians let them play about the Mountains When the King dies they chuse one of the wittiest and likeliest of them and Crown him not regarding Birth-right then are the Brothers removed a distant place to be kept Prisoners and his Children as he gets them sent to the forementioned Mountain The Burying-place of the Kings is called Ayesus and is a Grot cut out square in a Rock there the Aged are laid on one side and the Younger on the other side and near it stood a very pretty Church built by the Jesuits but they diving into Politicks and State Matters gave such suspition to the King that they intended to undermine his Throne as made him banish them and demolish their Church and Houses puting some to Death that lingred behind as also divers Capuchins setting a bag of dust-Gold on their Heads which made
Sacred none but the Bramen has the medling with them and the Woman is counted Infamous among her Cast that refuses to undergo this Cruelty Some are buried with their Husbands up to the Neck then strangled and quite covered and some of the Maids for the love they bear their Mistriss will in like manner accompany her in Death but this is rarely used now for the Mogul and other Mahometan Princes of India have strictly forbid it as Inhuman and Barbarous which secures many Women from the Infamy they would otherwise undergo in their Cast yet though the Governors pretend all that in them lies to restrain it some are still burnt for by earnest Sollicitations and large Presents if the Wife Petition for it which some of them do leave is obtained but it is thought they are incited to it by the crafty perswasions of the knavish Bramen who promises them inestimable Joys and Pleasures in another Life Having somewhat satisfied my Curiosity and as I think given a satisfactory account of the places I visited the Customs of the People c. the Fame of China invited me to take a very tedious Journey to visit that Kingdom and hearing that a Caravan of Merchants every Year passed from Lahors thither I found a convenient opportunity by Land and Water to arrive at that City a little before the Caravan was about to depart which consisted of about 500 Men and 7000 Camels Horses c. CHAP. XVII Travels through divers Countries into China and a satisfactory Account of all that is remarkable in that Kingdom IN our Passage to China for brevity sake I shall not be particular in every thing I saw as not being remarkable in such wild and desart Countries Let it suffice then that setting out we passed over vast Plains Rivers Mountains and Rockey ways in danger of wild Beasts and Robbers there being but few and those inconsiderable Towns till we came to Athec where recruiting with Provisions and refreshing ourselves we Travelled on in much the like ways to Passaur and so by several small Towns till we came to a City called Capherstam the Country it stands in is very Fertil producing good Wine and one thing I observed that they go to their Temples in Mourning Weeds and 25 days Journey from this we came to Gtrideli in 20 days more to Cabul and so to Ciracar and Paroua the last Town in the Mogul's Territories after which we were often forced to pay Tribute to petty Princes that govern'd the Cities and dependancies in our way Then to Aingharan we journied over exceeding high Mountains and leaving that place came to Calcia then to Gialalabath here recruiting we passed to Talhan and Cheman in the Kingdom of Samarhan and by a troublesom way from thence came to Badasciam and Chiarchiumar where we rested for some time and then kept on our Journey to Serpanel and so entered the Country of Sarcil full of Villages and in 6 days passed over Ciecialith a vast Mountain covered with Snow in which Passage some of the company perished with Cold and in a tedious Travel attained Tanghetar in the Kingdom of Cascar and passing Jaconich came to Hiarchan the Royal City where for a good Sum the Master of the Caravan obtained the King's Passport to further our Journey more quietly Then we kept our Journey through Jocil Hancialix Aleghet Hagabateth Egriar Marcetelec Thalec Horma Thoantac Mingrieda Capetalcol Zelan Sarc Guebedal Cambasci Monsersec Ciacolo and Ascu we passed these by a very tedious way over Stones Sands and the Desarts of Carcatha and so to Oitocarach Gazo Casciani Dellai Seregabedal Vngan and Cucia then to Pucian and Turphan a Fortified City thence to Aramuth and so to Camul the last City of the Kingdom of Ciales and from Camul to the North Wall of China through which we had admission at a place called Ciaicum after a 6 Months Journey and so passed to the City of Socive and thus being entered China I shall proceed to speak of it as far as I could learn during my stay there As for the vast Kingdom of China it has gone under many Denominations as the Princes has been pleased to new Name and call it as they severally ascended to the Throne Under the Reign of the first King it was called Tae mim que that is The Kingdom of great Brightness and by several other Names But when the Tartar whose Race are now in the power Conquer'd it they called it Tai Ciroque A Kingdom of great Purity and since it was called Chin to which the Portugueses the first Europeans Trading there adding an A it has since amongst us been called China and so it is generally accepted It is seated in the extremities of Asia towards the East and lies under 20 Degrees from North to South from the Fortress of Cai Pim placed on the Frontiers of the Province of Pekim in the Latitude of 41 to the Meridional point of the Island of Hai nan in 8 Degrees of the Elevation and to the South of the Province of Quamtum so that according to the Chinese account it is from North to South 5750 Li or Furlongs which make 575 French Leagues at 25 to a Degree and from Po point a Sea-Port Town in the Province of Che-Kiam to the extreamity of the Province of Suchven in a streight Line from East to West it is 426 French Leagues though Geographers taking it another way make it much longer viz. from the last place to the North-west of the Province of Leaotum called Caiyven to the last City of the Province of Yunnan called Cin-tien-Kiu-min-Fat and so the length is accounted 750 French Leagues and the breadth taken from Tam Chan the most easterly place of the Country of Leaotum joyning to the Kingdom of Corea to Tum-tim to the Westward of the Province of Xensi it is 500 French Leagues This vast Kingdom or Empire contains 15 Provinces larger than some considerable Kingdoms mostly Rich and Fertile which are ranked according to their Antiquity and Precedency in this Order by the Chineses Pekim Nankim now called Kiam-nan Xensi Xantum Ho-nan Xansi Chekiam Kianosi Huquam Su Chuens Fokien Quamtum Quamsi Yunnan Quei Cheum and Xantum many of these have Towns commodiously on the Sea and others on great Rivers and Lakes the whole Country being plentifully watered by which means it is exceeding Fertil and saves them abundance of Land Carriage The Chineses brag much of the Original of their Kingdom and some of their Books place it many thousand Years before the Creation of the World but most agree it has preserved its form of Government during the Reign of 22 Families and from them have descended 236 Kings during the space 4034 Years for so long they allow it to have been a Kingdom yet there is amongst them another more probable account viz. This account reduces the beginning of it to about 400 Years after the General Deluge and if any pretend to dispute it by Writing
or word of Mouth it is enough to endanger their Lives for they look upon it as a disparagement to their Kingdom as being the proudest and most conceited People of all Nations thinking themselves the best in the World and that all others are insignificant to them making in their Maps China very spacious and other Countries like little Rocks in the Sea and they hold a firm opinion that Europe is no more than 2 small Islands they also hold all their Neighbours for Barbarians and paint them in Monstrous and Ridiculous Forms and to make them seem Cowards though they have often experienced them to the contrary they report and paint them as little Pigmies who tie themselves in bundles when they go abroad least the Eagles and Kites should carry them away and when any one argues learnedly to them they start as in a surprize demanding whether they have their Books in their Country and when the Strangers Answer no they reply why then how came you by that Learning They hold their Religion the purest and ancientest of all the Religions in the World However it is to be believed that their Chronicle is the ancientest that is to be found and is so well connected the Reign of one King hanging so well to the other that it cannot reasonably be suspected to have been Written upon trust by Conjecture or Imagination They divide the Heavens into 28 Constellations and China into so many parts allowing each part one and leave none for any other Nation and in brief they give their own most lofty and magnificent Titles but to Foreign Countries most barbarous scornful and degrading Names to exalt their Kingdom by the disparaging others which Pride I am apt to believe proceeds from their Ignorance though some of the Nobles are more moderate and discreet but then it is such as have Travelled abroad though but a few of them are permitted and even these dare not speak much in the praise of other Countries least they should be looked on as undervaluers of their own and consequently as Enemies Some of their Kings have had the vanity to stile themselves Child of the Sun and Emperor of the World They are however a very industrious People as appears by their vast and stately Edifices Manufactures and other curious Matters for there are no idle People in the Kingdom the Lame Blind and Deaf employ themselves in one business or other as they are capacitated and get a living by it insomuch that they have a Proverb which says There is nothing in China cast away and let it be never so vile it may turn to Profit one way or other in the City of Pekim which is the chief of the Kingdom Many thousands of Families live only by making and selling Card-Matches and Wicks for Candles and as many by what they pick up about the Streets They have in every City a Bell and a Drum-Tower on which Watchmen strike to give the Hours and the quarters in the Night-time and both the Drum and Bell are exceeding large being heard many Miles answering one another in a Musical Harmony They burn an Incense made of Sweet Woods and Perfumes in their Chambers and before their Pagods making Candles of the same and other mixtures which in burning cast a fragrant smell and some they make so large to place in their Temples before their Idols that they will continue burning 20 or 30 Days and Nights and burning to certain windings and marks they by that distinguish Hours and Days in burning such and such exact proportions and those that burn them in their Chambers when they would rise at a certain Hour tie a little Brass weight by a String to a mark that specifies the Hour and the string burning the weight falls into a brass Bason set under it and strikes like a Larum-Watch They have many other curious devices as Chariots that will run swiftly without Horses only a Man that sits in it turning a Winch which by certain Springs turns the Wheels round with great Rapidity But passing over things of this Nature for the present I will proceed to describe in some measure the City of Pekim the Metropolis of China where the King has his chief Court This famous City is seated in a Plain forming a vast Square each of its sides being 12 Chinese Furlongs in length it has 9 Gates 3 upon the South side and 2 upon each of the other sides it is now Inhabited by the Tartars and their Troops are divided into the 8 quarters or as they call them Banners But considering under the preceeding Kings the numerous Inhabitants had not a sufficient place to contain them though the Nine Suburbs answering to the Gates were as big as Cities There was a new City built like the old one square in Form having its North side joyning to the side of the old one this has 7 Gates and every one a Suburb answering to it so that taking that in with the Suburbs it is of a vast circumference yet many who have writ of it have made it much larger than it is the one and the other are divided into 5 Jurisdictions or Tribunals of which I shall speak hereafter The principal Streets run to the 4 direct Points or Winds they are long streight and broad so well proportioned as if they had been marked out with a Line The little Streets run all from East to West being very fair and divide the spaces between the great Streets into equal and proportionable Islands having each a particular Name and there is a Catalogue to be sold of them with Notes and Directions that Strangers and those whose business it is to go on Errands may the easier find them for they are very numerous The fairest of these Streets is called Cham gan Kiai or the Street of Perpetual Repose it is about 30 Fathom broad and of a vast length The Houses are low built which they say is done in respect to the King's Pallace that it should appear more magnificent though besides the King 's there are Pallaces belonging to the Nobility very stately yet they are built backward so that nothing but a great Gate appears to the Street The old and new City are crouded with swarms of People as the Shops are with store of rich Commodities so that one would suppose there was a continual Fair held in it The King's Pallace is seated in the midst of the City and Fronts towards the South as almost all others do in this Country it is encompassed with a double enclosure of Walls in form of a long square the outward enclosure is extraordinary high and thick plaistered on both sides with a curious red Plaister and covered with a small Roof of varnished Brick of a Gold Colour the length of it from South to North is 8 Chinese Furlongs it has a Gate in the middle of each side composed of 3 Portals the middlemost never being opened but when the King passes and these have a Guard upon
Privy or Supream Council of the Learned Mandarins in his Pallace who are called his Council of State which is the most Honourable Dignity in the Kingdom these consult and transact all the weighty Affairs and these have several Magnificent Halls in the Pallace wherein they meet to consult according to their Degrees and when he advances any one to this Dignity he adds to his Name the Name of one of these Halls Besides these there are 11 other Tribunals of Mandarins 6 for Ecclesiastical and Civil and 5 for Military Affairs The first of these are called Lo-pu and the last V-fu and these are of ancient Institution the Chineses dating it 2000 Years before the Birth of Christ and to these Tribunals People repair for the determining their Affairs and for Redress besides they dispose of Offices and Trusts and confirm Honour and Dignities Their Power is great for they have a jurisdiction almost over all that belongs to the Court and it is absolute over all the Provinces so that they are much feared and dreaded because they can place and displace at pleasure and examine into all Frauds and Abuses to the Crown and into Ecclesiastical matters They are fearful of doing any injustice by reason there is a Mandarin in the nature of a Controller or Overseer to every Tribunal who examins publickly or privately all that is done and if he finds any injustice or disorder he is bound to make the King acquainted with it he is called Coli so that seldom any Corruptness or Partiality is found amongst them and if it be the Offender is severely punished There are some other dependent Tribunals in Pekim and to every one of the Provinces there belongs a Supream Tribunal which has the oversight of inferiour Courts so that business is managed and dispatched with little difficulty They have made prodigeous Works in this Country to secure the Rivers within their bounds yet notwithstanding sometimes encreased by the violent Rains they break out to the destruction of vast numbers of People Cattle and Houses as it happened in the Year 1668 after violent Rains which almost destroyed the new City of Pekim and they had much ado to secure the Flood from overturning the Walls of the old City and in this Deluge which was accompanied by an Earthquake for it had a long time before been a very dry Season near a Million of People perished and though many got upon Trees Hills and Out Houses they were there starved for the most part for want of Boats to fetch them off and the rapid Flood tumbling Rocks along with it broke down two Arches of the Famous Bridge which is about a Furlong over This Bridge is the most beautiful in China but not the largest the River overflowing is called Hoen Ho or the Muddy River because the rapidness of its Stream carries with it a great quantity of Earth tore from the Banks and Windings which renders it muddy all the Year but it is little Navigable by reason of the many Cataracts or Falls in it yet for bringing vast Stores to Pekim from the Southern Provinces a Canal is opened 3500 Chinese Furlongs through several Provinces accommodated with 72 Sluces every one having large Folding-Gates and these are only open in the day time some of them being very difficult to pass with Barks of great Burthen because the Falls are great but they are drawn up against the Stream by the strength of 4 or 500 Men and let down in the like manner with many Ropes fastned to them to prevent setting on the Piles or plunging and they are guided by long Poles with Iron Heads at the end The Chanel begins at Tum Cheu about 2 Leagues and an half from Pekim where there is a River with the Currant of which Vessels drive till near the Sea and then it falls into another through which Vessels Sail till they come to the Chanel and Sailing about 25 Leagues a Temple presents it self called Fuen Hui Miao or The Temple of the Spirit that divides the Water hither they Row against the Stream but when they come at the Temple they Row with the Stream for on the East-side about half a days Journey is a large Lake between high Mountains this Water swells a great River that bent its course towards the Sea on the East but they stopped up the out-let and with prodigious labour cutting through the Mountain opened a Canal by which they brought the Water to the Temple in that part they hollowed 2 other Canals one towards the South and another towards the North with so true a proportion and regular Line that the Waters coming to the middle before the Temple take leave of each other one running to the North and the other to the South in one and the same Canal which is very admirable and discharges it self into a large rapid River called the Yellow River the Water being so coloured by the yellow Earth on the Banks and Gold coloured Sand and Slime at the bottom upon this River they Sail 2 Days and then entering another Pass to another Canal running towards the City of Hoaingan and running by and through many Cities comes to Yamcheu The vast Wall of China that excludes the Tartars is no less to be looked on as a work of Wonder it runs from East to West and in length 405 Portuguese Leagues making 33 Degrees 10 Minutes reaching from the City of Cai yean Seated in the extreamity of the Country called Leao Tum to that of Canso or Can cheu Seated on the borders of the Province of Xensi in a streight Line for should the turnings and windings in the Mountains be reckon'd it would make much more it is guarded by 1327 Towers and Fortresses the Wall is 2 Fathom thick and 4 in heighth built mostly of Stone though in some places Brick appears where it is supposed to be mended or altered so that were it vigilently guarded and no Treachery which too often happens by the Captains of the Watches being bribed with part of the Plunder the Tartars would be too feeble to surmount it for upon this Wall and Frontier only there are 90254 Men kept in Arms and Pay and those that keep the Watch-Towers give the Signal of the Enemies approach by a Flag in the day time and in the Night by Fire These are but part of the King's Forces for the Auxiliaries that lie ready to march to their assistance are in a manner innumerable for the Horse only amount to 989167 and the Foot are many more their Pay yearly amounting to 5034714 Livres though they in some sort maintain themselves by their Industry and no doubt as great if not a greater number guard on the other Borders so that there are several Millions in Pay for in the Kingdom there are 2357 Fortified Places beside a great many that are Garrisoned upon almost inaccessible Mountains and Rocks that being strong by nature have no Walls In the 15 Provinces there are 332 Famous Bridges 2096
Mountains famous for their being cut into the shapes of Monsterous Idols for their Fountains Minerals or Fruits their Waters such as are Lakes full of Fish hot Fountains wonderfully Medicinal large Navigable Rivers and Streams are 1472. There are 1099 pieces of Antiquity to be seen as Statues Paintings and curious Vessels 1159 Towers and Triumphal Arches erected at Sundry times to the Memories of those that were renowned in War Learning or Virtuous Actions 272 Publick Libraries stored with variety of Books many of them covered with Gold and Silver Plate adorned with precious Stones There are yet remaining entire 709 Temples which the Chineses have Erected at several times to the Memory of their Ancestors of curious Architecture large and beautiful and the Names of those to whose Memory they were Erected affixed on Pillars and in these the several Families of the deceased Assemble at a prefixed Day and prostrate themselves on the Ground in token of Love and Veneration then they burn Incense and afterwards make a splendid Feast at several Tables richly set forth They account 480 Temples of Idols exceeding Rich and Magnificent beside many of lesser Note attending on these are 300000 Bouzes a kind of a Religious Order amongst them some Married and others not permitted besides a great number that Travel up and down called Licentiates having their Licenses to Authorize them from the Tribunal of the Ceremonies Their Mausoleums or Tombs are very stately to the number of 680 besides many of lesser Note but they Bury their Dead after they have kept them as long as they please without the Cities according to the manner of the Eastern Countries their Coffins are very Rich so that one of them sometimes costs 1000 Crowns The Catacombs of the Grandees are stately Arched Vaults in Mountains or Plains over which when the Body is in they raise a little Mount planting Fragrant Trees in good order on it Before this they Erect a large Altar of white pollished Marble or Alleblaster fixing Candlesticks one upon it and one on each side They Place Statues or Figures in Rows representing a History of the deceased's Actions and are very curious Artists in resembling Passions of Grief Joy Fear c. to the Life The Chineses reckon 3036 Men Famous for their Virtues and Valour Two hundred and eight Virgins and Widows Renowned for Piety Chastety c. whose Memories are Celebrated in their Stories and Poesies they are also honoured with Titles Temples Inscriptions and Triumphal Arches There are in this Kingdom 32 Princes or petty King's Pallaces resembling that of the King 's but much less The Cities are Govern'd by Mandarins as I before hinted and when any one gets the King's Letter to the Tribunal to be admitted the Names of the Cities are Written on thin Boards which are cast into a Vessel and on their Knees they draw and he whose Name comes up is allotted the Government of that City yet there is jugling in this for the Tables are so where Money is given that they seldom fail of a rich City though it is but for a set time viz. 3 Years least they should corrupt Justice or gain on the Affection of the People to raise Rebellion however they are Reverenc'd like petty Kings and abundance of Royal Hosteries are built in Cities and on the Roads to entertain them in their Travels at the King's Charge where every thing is in a Magnificent readiness when they know there is a Mandarin on the Road There is also places for the Entertainment of the Curriers and to furnish them with fresh Horses The Mountains yield Gold and Silver and therefore the Country is stored with Treasure though Gold indeed is more a Merchandize than a Coin amongst them the presents therefore that they make are excessive as 10 20 or 30000 Crowns at a time The King eats in Gold Plate and all his Nobles and those that are invited at a vast number of Tables in Silver and Porcelain so that the Furniture at a great Feast amounts to 5 or 6 Millions for there are Cups set with Diamonds and other Stones of vast value some are entire Stones very Rich and the Noble imitate the Court as far as their Ability will allow them they being very Rich for they usually get in their 3 Years Government as Viceroys of Provinces or Mandarins of Cities a Million of Crowns and those that are of the Council of State called Calaos or the upper Tribunals much more by Bribery for though they protest against it and there are severe Laws in this Case no Office passes the Seal without a considerable sum of Money underhand There is in this Kingdom vast quantities of Copper Tin Iron and other useful Metals of which they make great Guns Idols Statues Dishes Cups and other Things their Workmanship is very fine of Copper and Tin they make vast quantities of Money with little holes in the middle to string the pieces and so they pass as ready told in 500 or 1000 on a String and 1000 of their Deniers is given for a Chinese Tuel or Crown Their Exchange is made in Bank or places appointed for that end on one side this Money is the Name of the Reigning Prince and on the other that of the Tribunal that caused it to be Coined Their Gold and Silver is not properly to be called a Coin as being only cast into Ingots like Boats of different weights and value some of those of Gold are vallued at 20 Crowns and those of Silver at half a Crown and some more When they bury their Dead they burn a great many gilded Ingots which they call Loans of Gold and Silver vainly fancying the Ashes turns to Copper in the other World and serves their Friends to purchase Houses Horses and Provision likewise to bribe the evil Spirits that they should not injure them and that so the good Spirits may be Fee'd to hasten their Transmigration suffering their Souls to enter into Men and not into Beasts There is abundance of curious white Silk and Wax in China and by reason of the vast Silk Manufactures made all over the Kingdom the Ancients stiled it the Silken Kingdom so that many Vessels and Caravans are loaded with it for other Countries Most of the Men nay the very Lackeys and the Women all of them wear Silk and the richer sort have it Embroidered with Gold Silver Pearl and other Ornaments The fine Wax peculiar to China is not made by Bees but a little Fly as big as a Flea lays an Egg that breeds a Worm which piercing the Wax Trees to the Pith it issues out and hangs upon the Branches like drops of Dew and by the Sun and Wind is hardened and whitened in such quantities that it serves the Court the Nobility and Temples to make fine transparent Tapers Furs are in this Kingdom in vast quantities and almost every one wears a finer or coarser sort of them as they are able for the Linning of their Garments Seats
Feastings on their Dead There are a great many strong Stags and Harts I saw in my Passage which they use to Ride carry Burthens and draw their Waggons or Sledges Mulbury-Trees grow in some places along the Roads especially bordering on China which are laden in their proper Seasons with Silk-worms that produce much Silk but they little regard it it being mostly gathered by the Banians who live scattered among them who send it to Persia and other Countries and have rich Merchandize in return for here the coldness of the Country obliges them mostly to habit themselves in Furs and thick course Cloathings They trade much in White and Black Fox Sables Hart and Fawn Skins they have vast Forrests of Black Wood wherein many huge Bears lurk to surprize Travellers which made us keep close together when we passed such places and have our Eyes about us as well as our Fire-arms in readiness and so keeping the Road though not without many turnings and ruged ways when we had passed Samark and it brought us to Bockar where I staid some time to refresh me for I had been ill of a Flux by the way which still held me so that I took no great pleasure to make any curious remarks here and had I done it as I was informed there is nothing worthy of Note in the Town the Houses being plain and low Built the Streets crooked and no Antiquities memorable Here the Moscovites and Yousbecs Tartar are driving a considerable Trade together in Furs and other Commodities Having here pretty well recovered by the assistance of a German Physician I found in this place I thought a convenient opportunity to pass to Astrakan which in a few days I had passing part of the way in Sledges drawn by Harts that run with them very swiftly and an other part by taking Horse there being a kind of a little Caravan made up by the meeting of divers Travellers The Muscovites use Sledges that in the Winter they slide swiftly over the Snow and Frozen Rivers having Beds in them and covered over with Tilts like Waggons so that they are a warm Convenience notwithstanding in Winter Travellers have been Frozen to Death in them Astrakan is Seated on the Great and Famous River Volga which at 70 Mouths or Channels discharges its Water into the Caspian Sea and so forcibly that it keeps it stream unmixed with the Salt-water for many Leagues In this River the Muscovites have a great Fishery for Sturgeon which they catch in abundance very large so that the Eggs sometimes found in one of them may weigh 100 Weight As for the Flesh they pickle up and send it into divers parts of Europe some they press to make Oyl and the Eggs they salt to make Ragous to serve them instead of Butter which in Lent is denied them and this is the Cavere so much used in many Countries In the Summer there are so many Muskela's or Sting Gnats about this River that Passengers are miserably Stung and Blistered by them though they wrap themselves up and defend them all they can We were forced to stay before this City till we obtained leave of the Governor for admittance which after a little attendance was granted It is Seated in 48 Degrees North Latitude in an Island of the Volga 13 Leagues from the Mouth of the River and appartains to the Great Czar of Muscovy It is encompassed with a double Wall without any other Fortification except some few Towers half Musket Shot one from an other The Great Guns planted there are fine pieces and about 80 in number it stands low on gravelly Ground so that the heat is excessive in Summer and the People are constrained to Bath themselves in cool Water in Troffs placed in Vaults yet the Soil produces good Fruit of sundry kinds they have store of excellent Mellions especially the Karpous or Water Mellions their Rhinds Green but of a Rosey Red within of a pleasant tast cooling and delicate to quench Thirst There are divers sorts of Grapes of which they make a kind of pleasant Wine but it soon Sowers All this while no private Person dares touch a Grape till the Governour has made choice of them and other Fruits for the Czar's Table There are divers Nations inhabiting here drawn by the Convenieney of Trade and the sweetness of the Air. The Armenians entirely possess one Suburb and the Nogais Tartars an other which resemble a City being Fortified with Wooden Ramports and the Deputy Governour Commands there within the Enclosure stands a pretty convenient Mosque but the Houses for the most part are made of Bull-rushes of which there are about 2000. They keep a Market in the Morning in their Quarter and the Mascovites keep theirs in the Evening in the middle of their City yet this City is often insulted by the Calmuc Tartars which constrains the Inhabitants for their better Repose to send them Presents which the Tartars call a Tribute of Bread Fish Flesh and other Provisions and they drive a Trade with them for Furs and Horses of which they bring great plenty besides the Muscovites are many times obliged to them for their assisting them with Men in the time of their Wars CHAP. XX. Travels in Muscovy and Observations of what is worthy of Note as to the Towns Rivers Mountains Commodities Heats and Colds Laws Religion Manners and Customs of the People c. and from thence through Poland and Germany into Holland HAving a desire to see Muscovy and particularly Moscow the chief City I made it my business to find an opportunity to leave Astrakan and pass thither As for this vast Country it is bounded on the West with Lithuania and Livonia on the East with Tartary on the North with the Frozen Ocean on the South with the Caspian Sea the Ottoman Empire and Paulus Maeotis It is branched with many large Navigable Rivers as the Tanais Borhistenes Volga c. It is divided into 9 Provinces viz. Novog Radia Valademira Plescovia Rhesen Servia Parmia Condoria Petrosa and Muscovy though from this last the whole Track takes its Denomination Towards the Southern parts it is pretty plentiful of many things of Value yielding Corn Cattle Furs Flax Hemp Wax Honey c. but the Northern parts lye very cold the Earth being so long covered with Snow that the Ground is chilled and produces not its Fruits kindly yet Furs are gotten off of White Black and Red Foxes Grey and Red Squrrils Minever Ermins Wolverin or wild Dogs The Woods which are generally Fur and Birch abound in Ravenous Creatures particularly Wolves and Bears which in the extremity of Weather pinched by Cold and Hunger comes in great Clusters to the Villages near the Forrest and puts the Inhabitants to flight many times killing and devouring them and their Cattle so that at such times by way of prevention they are forced to be on their Guard But as to these and other matters of the like nature I shall take them in course as
Weather it is put into a Grave in a few days but in the hard Weather when the Ground cannot be dug they pile the Bodies up in a House they call God's House and when the Season is practicable every one fetches away his Dead and buries it The Muscovites are generally very Corpulent and of a large size strong and of late grown Dexterous in the feats of Arms particularly Fire-arms they have abundance of great Ordinance some carrying Bullets two foot Diameter They are curteous to Strangers unless they get in Drink and then they are very Rude and Mischievious and this they often do for the Men and Women are excessive Drinkers so that many have been Murthered by them in their drunken Revels before Dinner they usually drink a Cup of Aquavitae which they say gets them a good Appetite and after Dinner carouse stoutly of Meath and other strong Liquors and then â—o to sleep on Benches The better sort wear exceeding Rich Garments as Scarlet or Velvet lined with Furs down to their Ancles loose like the Greeks and under them Vests or Wastcoats of Cloath of Gold or Silk Imbroidered the Scull of the 12 Caps Imbroidered with Gold Silver or precious Stones according as they are able and over it a Cap or Bordering of Sables Ermin Minever or the like the Women unless Head attire are cloathed almost like the Men with open Sleeves down to their Fingers they wear Girdles Imbroidered or Plated with Gold and Silver but with the poor Mousack or Country Peasant tho' he keeps the Fashion it is as hard as with us his Garments are course Cloath or Sheepskin with the Wool on but every one has a differently suiting to Winter and Summer for in the Latter Season it is very hot more then commonly in England yet it lasts but June July and August They much delight in Musick tho' it be but Indifferent for I heard nothing like that of other nations whilst I remained amongst them as for Learning the lower degrees affect it not addicting themselves to Husbandry and Handicrafts very obedient they are to their Prince never disputing his Commands or Injunctions what ever they be paying their Taxes and Customs tho' somewhat heavy very chearfully If in a Law controversie the Judge cannot decide it he demands if they will kiss the Cross on their Affirmation or denial if the Defendant does it he is acquitted of his Debt or Injury done if both require it then they draw Lots and he that has the better Lot is only allowed it and concluded to be in the right But in Criminal matters they use Tortures and those very severe ones to extort confessions but if the party hold out against them he is acquitted They have one sort of Execution very odd which is by putting Criminals under the Ice to be smothered in the Waters but cannot be done at all times wherefore they have many more as Hanging and the like These are the Principal matters I observed or was Informed of in this Country worthy to be placed in a History of this Nature and now fearing to be Winter locked after my having been in so many warm Regions I bethought me of Removing nearer home because the cold Season was approaching wherein I was very sensible it would be very Incommodious for a Stranger to travel in these parts and therefore I took an opportunity of a Caravan going for Poland part of which Country I passed but had little or no time to take a survey of it only thus much I shall say in General The Borhistenes bounds it from the Muscovite Empire on the East on the West it has the Vistual on the North the Baltick Sea and Sinus Trinitus on the South Hungary and is divided into 10 Provinces viz. Luconia Lithunia Vollina Samogita Pedelia Russia Nigra Podlasia Mosovia and Poland and the Latter giving the Country it s generally accepted Name These Provinces are Branched with several Navigable Rivers as Vistua Raben Bog Mimel its Metropolis is Cracow or Craconia where usually the King has his Residence It is an Elective Kingdom and at present the Regal Lot by free choice of the Nobility and Gentry is fallen on the Vallian and Renowned Duke of Saxony who is crowned King of Poland and has received the Homage of the greater part of the Poles Cracow is Scituate on the Banks of the River Vistua Navigable 400 Miles being as it were Encompassed with distant mountains and fortified with strong Walls the Buildings are very fair This Country produces Tar Rosin Pitch Wax Honey Barly Oats Amber Tallow Hides Minerals and other Commodities and therein by Trading are found the Commodities of divers other Nations we stayed not here but passing some other Province Entred Germany by the Way of Hungary Austria c. This Famed Empire is bounded on the North with Denmark and the Danish Seas on the East with Prussia Poland and Hungary on the South with the Alps on the West with Flanders Holland c. The Cities and Towns of this Empire may be properly divided into 3 parts as first the Hans Towns that enjoy large Previledges and Immunities about 70 in Number 2. Those called Imperial Cities by reason of their great Privileges above the rest in Coining Money bargaining acknowledgement of Subjection unless to the Emperour whom they acknowledge their Protector and pay him Annual Tribute so And 3dly those under the Electoral Princes which are commonly called Principalities the chief Rivers are the Danube and Rhine the first runs about 1500 Miles and receives 58 Navigable Rivers to swell its Stream and at last falls into the Black Sea the second passes thro' Germany and Belgia 800 Miles and falls into the German Ocean This large Country produces Silver Mines Copper Lead Tin Iron Corn Wine Allum Quick Silver Linnen Woollen Linnen-Stuffs Silks store of Cattle and many other Commodities and from hence by Land and Water I reached the Low Countries and briefly I so directed my way that I cam to Amsterdam the chief trading City in the Province of Holland It is seated on the River Tay which on the North side of it flows like a large Sea when on the South the River Amster running through 3 Lakes entereth its Streets and falleth into the River Tay and by the Addition of a new City to the old it is become very Commodious and Strongly fortified and in it are to be found the Commodities of almost all Nations tho' the Country produces nothing very considerable of its own but these things come by Navigation for most of the Inhabitants are Merchants who 's Goods are brought by Vessels to their Doors and Warehouses and the People are generally Frugal Industruous and Rich. CHAP. XXI A Voyage from Amsterdam in Holland to Cales in the Spanish Dominion and Thence to America giving an Account of what happened on the Sea and in some Islands touched at c. BEing at Amsterdam I began seriously to consider of my Travels and whilst I Ruminated
between 10 and 12000. They carry on a fine Cloth Manufacture there which is sent over all the Indies being as good as that of Segovia in Spain there is a Glass-House and a Mint wherein is Coined most of the Silver that comes from Sacatecat to be sent to Spain it has curious Gardens about it replenished with Fruits Flowers and Fountains and the Fields that Enclose them are very pleasant abounding with Wheat and Sugar Farms Continuing our Journey after a considerable refreshment we passed through many pleasant Villages leaving considerable Towns on either hand to Guaco Cingo Inhabited by Spaniards and Indies to the number of 6 or 700. There is in it a Cloyster of Franciscan Friars This place is like Tlaxcallian has many Privileges granted by the King of Spain because it Confederated with Cortez against Montezuma The Friars here Entertained us with Singing and Dancing boasting that they had brought up several of the Town to do it some of which they produced and made them Dance to their Gittars with Castinets and this we found to be the last Town of note till we came to Mexico which lies about 30 Miles from the way up and down over rising Hills and descending Valleys with a mighty high Mountain before us that overlooks Mexico and the vast Lake it is Seated on This Mountainous Alp has perpetual Snow upon it and in paâ—â—…ng the Spurs we found a great alteration in the Air for here it was very Cold to what we had felt before In this Mountainous way the Mexicans endeavoured to stop Cortez by laying mighty Ceders a-cross but not staying to defend the Barocades with some pain he remov'd them and Marched his Army of Spaniards and Indians to the Plains of Quichatipec in the Jurisdiction of Tezculo where he gave 100000 of Montezumas's Forces Battel and Battering their Ranks first with his Field Pieces and then breaking in with his Horse utterly defeated them whereupon divers Towns upon the Lake and on the Borders of the Mountain submitted to him the Terror of him growing so great that those who submitted not fled out of their City which made him put out a Proclamation for their return promising that no Injury should be done unto them CHAP. XXIII My Arrival at Mexico a Descriptien of that famed City what it has been and what at present it is the manner of Building nature of its Inhabitants Riches and plenty of the Mountains Lakes and places about it c. AFter a tedious Journey being Arrived at the great City of Mexico the Head of the Northern Spanish Indies I shall have occasion to speak more particularly of it than of other places I passed through as to what it now is and in general as to what it has been in its most flourishing splendor This City is large in Compass and stands on two Lakes which some have concluded to be but one because of their nearness and Communication of their Waters but they appear different in three things particularly viz. one ebbs and flows by the force of the North-Wind and the other does not the Water of the one is Sweet the other is Salt and Brackish one has great store of Fish and the other is destitute of any though they have both their source or Springs that feed them from the great Mountain that overlooks the City The Houses in this City are Built more stately especially those of the Nobility and Gentry than in other places the Vice-Roy of the Mexacanian Province has his Palace here and so has the Arch-Bishop The Churches are many Founded mostly on the Heathen Temples which were in the flourishing state of the City very numerous and had Pyramides in the Midst of a vast height on which the Idols stood to whom they offered Humane Blood in Sacrifice and sprinkled the Walls and Pillars of the Idol-Altar with it there are in the City several Spacious Streets and great Markets affording all sorts of Provisions and other Necessaries The Lakes by reason of the abundance of Boats and Canoes that Trade on them furnish the City with store of plenty especially with multitudes of Fowl and Fish taken there the former being allured by a certain Oily tough Scum on the Water which they eat as Food besides there are many Trading Towns on the Banks where the Boats take in Loading and constantly supply the City The Monasteries and Nunneries are a graceful Ornament to the rest their being almost of all the Orders The Churches have Curious Spires with Guilded Crosses on their Tops and the whole Fabrick's Built with Stone of rare Architecture Water comes almost into all parts of the City by small Conduits for though the Streets were formerly watered by Channels from the Lake they are now mostly stopped up and firm Ground made where Houses are Built for after the Conquest Cortez divided the Ground where the Houses had been Consumed by Fire or void spaces were some to the Indians and some to the Spaniards and free Leave was given by Proclamation for every one to come in and Build so that it was soon Rebuilt but since the Spaniards have in a manner dispossessed the Indians of their part for though many Live in the City yet are they obliged to hire the Houses at dear Rates that were formerly by Grant from the Court of Spain their lawful Patrimonies or Inheritance The Spaniards Built their Houses in their own Fashion and the Indians theirs according to the custom of the Countrey Cortez Built his where King Montezumas's stately Palace stood which in the Siege had been consumed with Fire and a vast number of Wild Beasts of all sorts that he kept there in Wooden Cages Burnt in it lamentably roaring and howling as the Fire approached them and this House is the most stately in the City being the Seat of the Vice-Roy of all the Province and is called the Palace of the Marquess d' Valla for that Title the King of Spain conferred on Cortez after he had obtained his amazing Victories over such a mighty Nation considering his Forces were but a handful of Spaniards but that which seemed in all humane probability to give him success were the Bullets and Chain-Shot proceeding from his Thundring Artillery for the Indians unacquainted with such Engines took their roaring and breathing flame to be the Voice of the Angry Gods that fought against them and when the Shot made Lanes among them they took them for their Thunderbolts or destroying Angels sent as Messengers of their vengeance to cut them off not thinking any thing in nature could be of so violent a force as to beat down Ranks of Men before them with such swiftness that the Eye could scarce trace the Deaths they gave This and the Spaniards Armour proof against their Arrows made their Courage stoop and languish though otherways a Valiant people as appears by their disputing it in the City from Street to Street and fortifying themselves with intrenchments as they Retreated tho' by the Sword
Pestilence and Famine 10000 or more lay Dead within the Walls In this War Montezuma was Slain by his own Subjects against their Wills for being taken Prisoner when multitudes of Indians assaulted the Palace where Cortez and his Spaniards were he was constrained to go to a Ballcony or Battlement to desire his Subjects to desist and come to a Parley when one of the inraged multitude not knowing him in the hurry struck him with a sharp Flint on the Temples which wounded him so much that he fell down and soon after Died yet at that time Cortez was forced to retire out of the City to strengthen himself in Flaxcallan and at his second time took it by the help of the Vergantines or Vessels he Besieged it with on the side of the Lake which stopping up all passage for Relief Famine and its attendant Pestilence proved their worst Enemy yet submitted they not but disputed it as I have said till Quahutimo C their New King seeing things brought to the last extreamity endeavouring to fly by way of the Lake was surprized by the Spanish Vessels and made Prisoner at that time by Cortez's perswasion who would not give him his Wish to kill him tho' he desired it Commanded his Men to lay down their Arms and then about 60000 came out of their strength and submitted have Lived a long time on the Flesh of the Slain yet Famine notwithstanding had so pinched them that they looked like the shadows of Men Lean Meager and very Gastly Over again the Palace they Built Arched Docks to lay up the Veâ—gantines in perpetual memory of the notable Service they had done but they are mostly wasted by Time and other Vessels Trading on the Lake are in the wet Season laid up there However this Great City is sometimes unhealthful for as much as there arises at certain times a noysom Vapour from the Lake and at those times the Winds blow little to purge the Air because of the Inclosure of Mountains The Spaniards a long time stood on their Guard after the taking of Mexico the Citizens keeping 2000 Horse and Arms for Horse-Men always to be in a readiness when the Trumpet should sound but by what they have consumed of the Indians in their Mines and in working on the Lake in making great Intrenchments other Works and particularly by their Cruelty they have so far exhausted them that those Forces are laid aside and they live secure without fear of surprize for the City lies open in most parts and in all defenceless except the strength of the Inhabitans being destitute of Bullwarks and other considerable Fortifications tho' an exceeding Rich City and the Lading of 20 or more Ships are brought yearly to it by the way of the North Sea containing the best and Richest Commodities of Spain and other parts of Christendom bought up by the Spaniards to this purpose and from the South-Sea it Trafficks with Perue it Trades also with several Eastern Nations by way of the Pilipinas Money is daily Coined in the Mint to a great value the Silver being brought on Mules from the Mines of St. Lewis de Saccatecas about 80 Leagues more Northward and beyond them the Spaniards by Conquest and the voluntary submission of the Natives have gained the possession of very large Countries There is in this City a University which was formerly only a School The Officers here are as in the great Cities of Spain and it is Computed to have in the City and Suburbs 50000 Houses and to the latter called Guadalupe the Indians are mostly confined The Spaniards Styling themselves absolute Conquerors and Disposers of their Persons and Fortunes being very proud and insulting over them a Conqueror among them being termed a Title of Honour so that the most Beggarly among the Spaniards will proudly boast to be descended from one of the first Conquerors and Style himself a Don though he has not one Foot of Land in Possession There are many fair Gardens and Orchards about this City with pleasant Summer-Fountains and other things suitable for recreation in them The Buildings are with Stone and Brick but not high to prevent their being shaken and overthrown by Earthquakes that often happen in this Country In the narrowest Streets 3 Coaches may go abrest and in the broadest 6 They keep a vast number of Coaches here some account them 15000. those of the Nobility and Gentry very stately overlayed with Gold or Silver and the Corners embolished with Precious Stone Ivory or Mother-pearl the Lining and Seats are Cloth of Gold Silver or East-India Silks The Shops are every where stored with Rich Merchandize and by this you may guess at their Riches and dexterity in Workmanship A Vice-Roy of Mexico Anno 1625. sent the then King of Spain the representation of a Poppinsay a Bird bigger than a Phesant of Meltal and Precious Stones so artificially placed as to represent us several Colours and all parts very lively and it was estimated at half a Million of Duccats In the Church belonging to the Cloyster of Dominican is a Silver Lamp curiously wrought with 300 Branches beside 100 little Lamps for Oyl set in it each of different Workmanship valued at 400000 Duccats and with such like curious Works are the Streets made Rich and Beautiful from the Shops of Goldsmiths The Spanish Women are here very Beautiful and take a far greater liberty than allowed in Spain in Gaming Drinking and making Visits nay they will from their Windows or Ballconies invite Strangers as they pass the Streets to play at Primera and other Games and such as accept the offer are plentifully Feasted with Wine Sweet-meats and other Dainties though this sometimes prove fatal for the Spaniards though so far removed have not altogether forgot the imbred Jealousie of their Spanish Ancestors who brought it out of Spain with them Many of the Spaniards Marry with the Indian Women and beget a race called Mollotos of a Tawney Complection nor spare they to take away the Indian's Wives if they like them better than their own they boast themselves to the poor credulous Natives to be the Valiantest and most Accomplish'd Men in the World and that all Nations Tremble at the Name of a Spaniard and by this and other Artifices they keep them in great awe and subjection assuring them that no Nation under Heaven is able to deliver them out of their Hands or in Battel to stand before them As for the Spaniards Attire the Fashion alters not here but it is with the better sort excessive Rich and the meanest will go as Fine as possible though other Necessities crave the sparing of it The best Silks Damask Cloath of Gold and Silver Embroideries of Pearl and Precious Stones are commonly worn amongst them nay among Trades-people a Blackamoor or Tawney Young Maid will make a hard shift to be in the Fashion with a Neck-Lace or Chain of Gold Bracelets of Pearl and Ear-bobs of large Pearl or Precious Stone and
though their Garments are very Rich yet they overlay them with Gold Silver-Lace or Embroidery of Gold and Silver and these sort of Wenches are allowed or wincked at to be Curtizans or Common Women to satisfie the Spaniniards Venery to which they are insatiably given and they have allways change of Apparel especially for Summer and Winter though the Winter here consists only in terrible Rains and the overflowing of Lakes and Rivers with innundations occasioning many times the Destruction of Houses People and Cattel and continues some Months They are here very Superstitious both Spaniards and Indians for at the invitation of the Priests they make excessive Offerings to the Shrines of Saints as Crowns of Gold Bracelets Precious Stones Vessels of Silver and Gold so that the Monasteries and Churches may well be said to enjoy the Profits and Pleasures of a Golden World for their Revenues or yearly Incomes are more than in any part of Europe nor do these Ecclesiasticks tie themselves to the strictness of the Rules of their Orders but pass away the time in divers Recreations They have pleasant Gardens Fountains Baths Musick and plenty of Provision to Excess so that this exuberiance or super abounding of this Country has corrupted the Manners of the begging Friars and rendred them as stately as petty Princes particularly their Superiors who scarcely give place to any Their Lodgings are stately and the Roofs of their Cloysters and Churches adorned with Mosaick Work and Guildings of Gold some Altars are of Massive Gold others of Silver Pillars of Brazil and Marble of little esteem among them and this Glorious shew of Pomp and Grandure draws the poor Indians to Admire and Adore them though before their Heathen Temples were very Magnificent but not comparable to these They have Tabernacles of Gold and Silver Christial and other precious things to enshrine and carry the Host about in Procession so that I may well say the Riches of the greatest King or Potentate I have yet spoken of may in some degree of Magnificence fall short of what I saw here if I take the Clergy among the Laity In the Market-Place of this City which is very Spacious there are Arched Piazza's and Shops furnished with Costly Wares and before their Shops are all manner of curious Fruits Sold that the Country affords the Arches of the Vice-Roy's Palace with the Walks of the House and the Garden belonging to it takes up almost one side of the Market at the end of it is the principal Prison strongly Built of Stone and next it the Beautiful Street called La Pateria or the Goldsmiths-street where are to be seen the value of many Millions in Plate and Jewels The Street of St. Augustin is very fair where they Trade mostly in Silks Tabuca is the longest and broadest where mostly are Shops vending Iron-ware Brass and Steel made into things fit for use and Service and this is of very stately Building In the Street Del Aquilla the Houses of the Gentry are mostly seated It is called so from an Eagle of Stone placed there upon the Conquest of the City There is a kind of a Park or void place shaded with Trees where the Gallants and Ladies with their Trains and Equipages air themselves in the Evening and here much mischief is done by quarels upon the account of Jealousie in Courtship and hundreds of Swords at a time have been drawn to Revenge or rescue a Revenger and carry him off to Sanctuary where being once Lodged he is out of the power of the Law yet after all the Lake at present much undermines the City for that the Springs permit but of few Cellars in laying in Dead Bodies the Coffins are half covered with Water and many of the stately Buildings sink so that they are forced often to repair their Foundations by laying new ones on the old that seem as it were to be swallowed up in a quick-sand This City has but 3 ways to come into it by Causey the one is from the West and that is a Mile and half long another from the North containing 3 Miles on the East there is no entrance by Land but on the South the Causey is 5 Miles in length and by this last way Cortez entred when he made his Conquest of it About this City as well as in other places are divers kinds of delicate Fruits as the Nuchili of divers Colours a Fruit which eaten stains like Black-Cherries and colours the Urine as red as Blood so that Strangers unacquainted with its quality really fancy they void Blood this put the Spaniards into great frights at their first coming and their Physicians being ignorant of the Operation applied Remedies to stanch Blood till the Indians gave them to understand better the skin of them are thick and full of small prickles which touching the Lips stick in them and make them for a time stick together so that the Voice will faulter but this skin is easily pealed off and then the Fruit appears of a Scarlet Red. There are also Apples Pears Quinces Pomegranets Musk-mellions Chess-Nuts Wall-Nuts Figs Lemons Oranges Citron and abundance of other Fruits known in Europe But one Tree more Admirable than the rest not known amongst us the Metel which they Plant and dress as they do their Vines It hath near 40 kinds of Leaves growing on it which serve for divers uses for when very tender they make Conserves of them when more grown Paper Flax Mantles Shoes Mats Girdles and Cordage on other Leaves grow Prickles so strong that placing them in Frames of Wood they make saws of them from the Root there cometh a Juice like unto Syrrup which by heat is made into Sugar they make of it also Vinegar and a sort of Wine that stupifies the Indians to Drunkenness The Rhin'd roasted heals Sores and Ulcers applying Poltisces to them and from the uppermost Branches distills a Gum which dissolved in Wine Antidotes Poyson And to conclude with this City there is nothing in or about it wanting to make it happy but the Temper of the people who are restless in a Countrey flowing with all Delights Nature or Art can afford them in any degree CHAP. XXIV Travels into divers other parts of the Mexican Province describing the particulars that are Curious and worthy of Note As also in the Peruanian Province as well Islands as Continent and all that is Rare and Remarkably found in America HAving thus Travelled to Mexico and described it as particularly as Prospect and Enquiry could inform me I now undertake briefly to do the like of the Country of Americas as far as it is yet known to the Europeans or Indians I conversed with those parts The chief Division therefore of this great part of the World is two fold viz. the Mexicanian and Peruanian Provinces Mexico gives name to the greater half of America and is called Nova Hispania or New Spain from whence the Kings of Spain Style themselves Hisaniour Reges The Mexican Track
very Rich Trading City Sta fee or St. Faiths an Arch-Bishop's See and a Court of Justice and Chancery Governed by a President 6 Judges the King's Attorney and two High Justices of Court who have allowed them out of the King's Treasury 6000 Duccats a Year Palama and Merida and through this Country of Granada lieth the Road way to Lima all by Land It is strong by reason of its Situation much among stony Crags or Rocks which environ it and through which there are very narrow passages yet is it full of pleasant Valleys which yield much Fruit Corn and Indian Maize it affords Silver Mines and many Golden Sand Rivers Carthagena the last Province of Castella Aurea is of a very Fruitful Soyl but not without some evil quality for it produces a Tree that grasped by the Hand proves a rank Poyson and the party hardly escapes without loss of Life or Member the Chief City is Carthagena Surprized and Plundered by Drake Anno 1585. who beside a Rich Booty carried from thence 230 pieces of Ordinance It is now reasonably well Fortified tho' not so strong as Portobel the City is Fair and very Rich by reason of the great quantity of Pearl brought thither from Margarita and the King's Revenue which for all Nova Granada are sent to this place it is a Bishop's See and in it are many Stately Churches and Cloysters adorned with Riches to this City likewise comes yearly small Vessels Laden with Indico Cochinele and Sugar made and had in the Country of Guatemala the Spaniards thinking it safer to Ship their Goods in those little Vessels on the Lake of Granada in Nicaragua and from thence to send them hither to be Shipped in the Galeons that come from Portobel with the Treasure of Peru than to send them by Honduras in which way they have become a Prey to other Nations The City next in Rank is Abuida the next Sta Martha Inhabited by Spaniards who are very Rich it is Seated on the River Abuida otherwise named St. John and Rio di Grand Venezuel and New Cales in this Track are Towns of considerable Note Rich and Populous and these three Provinces viz. Andaluzia Nova Nova Grana and Carthagena the Spaniards term it their Terafirma for that from the North they are the strength of Peru and the basis of this Reverse Pyramis There are yet many Rich Islands under the Spanish Power as that of Margarita Situate in the Sea near Castella Aurea called the Jewel-Island from the great quantity of Pearl and Precious Stones found about it It is true it is but poor in Fruit-Trees Corn and Herbage having scarcely any upon it the Water is likewise scarce as is any thing good or pleasant so that the Inhabitants in the hot-seasons will exchange a Tun of Wine for as much curious Cool Spring-Water but the Jewels got there make large amends by greatly enriching the People so that there are many Rich Merchants who have 30 40 or 50 Blackamoor Slaves kept purposely to dive for Pearls and other Precious things These are let down in Baskets and feel about the Rocks and places where they suspect they are and will stay under Water a Quarter of an Hour and when their Breath begins to fail they give the Sign by pulling a Rope to those on the surface in their Boats to draw them up with such things as they have rifled the Ocean of and their Masters are obliged to Feast and make much of them least out of a sullen humour they should under Water be careless of so weighty a business where they cannot see them act nor give them directions for the Spaniards though they love the Profit are themselves averse to the fatigue and hazard in procuring it for many times these poor Divers are drawn up with a Leg or an Arm off and sometimes taken quite away by some devouring Sea-Monstrous Fish at other times when they Dive without a Basket or Rope they are sucked by the Water under the hollow caveties of the Rock whence they cannot with all their strugling disentangle themselves but there unavoidably perish From this Island the Pearls are sent to be dressed and bored at Carthagena where is a Fair Street of no other Shops than Pearl-dressers Commonly in the Month of June there is a Ship or two ready in this Island to carry the King's Revenue and Merchant's Pearls thither and one of their Cargoes is seldom valued at less than three or fourscore Thousand Duccats which sometimes falls into the Hands of Free-Booters Cuba is an other Island 300 Miles in length and 70 broad found out by Columbus in his second Navigation to these Coasts it is full of Woods Lakes Rivers and Mountains the Air Temperate the Soil very Fruitful It produces Brass of exact perfection and some Gold though not so fine as in other parts It abounds with Ginger Cassia Mastick Aloes some Cinnamon Canafistula Sarsaparilla and Sugar great store of Fish Fowls and other Flesh so that the ships on their return to Spain take in much Provision here The chief Cities are St. Jago on the Northern Shoar but James de Valasco is a Bishop's See Havana which is also seated on the Northern Shoar and is a very commodious Haven for Shiping so strongly Fortified that the Spaniards term it the Key of America to lock up the Door or Entrance here usually Rideth the King of Spain's Navy and in this Port meet all the Merchants Ships from several Ports and Havens in Islands or Continent and commonly in the Month of September joyn all the Treasure as I may say of America all the King of Spain's Revenues with as much more of Merchants Goods which is often worth 30 Millions It has two strong Castles one at the point of the Haven where the Enterance lies towards the Sea and the other on the other side within almost over against it and by reason the passage of the Entrance is so narrow that not above one great Ship at a time can sail in these Castles admirably defend it or may well do it against a strong Naval Force I took a view of these Castles and found them very strong and regular there are besides others 12 pieces of great Brass Ordinance called by the Names of the 12 Apostles yet the Dutch and other Nations have sometimes insulted them in the Mouth of this Haven and taken considerable Prizes within sight and reach of the Castle Guns and in the Year 1629. they took no less than 7 Millions most of it the King of Spain's Treasure going for Cales and from one Friar they took a Cabinet of Gold Chains Pearl and pretious Stones worth 40000 Duccats and forced the Galleons on shoar in a River near the Port which Miscarriage being laid to the charge of Don Juan de Guzman Y Torres the Admiral at his return to Spain he was Imprisoned and soon after lost his Head The next that presented was another Island much greater than any I have yet
into 11 Provinces viz. Persis now called Far Susiana Caramania Gedrosso Drangiania Irica Arachossa Parapomisus Seccha Hircania and Ormus all very large and most of them Fertile On the confines of this Kingdom we found Men Armed with Bows and Quivers who stopped us because we were advanced before the Caravan but being certified that we belonged to it they let us pass These are the King's Officers set on the Roads to examine Strangers thereby to prevent Spys and Robbers entring into the Country and are upon most Roads having a pretty good Sallary out of the Treasury for their diligence and they get much Money of Passengers Having passed these Men we Travelled sometimes over Plains then Hills and then into Plains again and through many narrow Passages seeing on either Hand a very fruitful Country and the Persian's Houses many of them being made of Cane and built straglingly here and there we often changed the Point sometimes North or East or South-East as the way led us till we came by a Village of Cures called Nian the Hills about it were covered with Turpentine and wild Chesnut-Trees the Waters bordered with Agnus Castus and Rose-Laurels Here the Weather altered for it was very Cold in comparison of the Hot Countries we had passed before From hence we passed to a Village called Chegiafer it is composed of stragling Houses of rough Stone Earth Cane and Reeds covered with green Branches the former are their Summer-Houses and the latter their Winter-Houses Their Mosques in this place are built of rough Stone and Earth and on the way there are many Kervanserais commodious to Inn at very fine for the most part being beautified with a kind of black Stone some pollished and some rough but passing on through a vast track of Country we came to Hamadan to which place the Caravan was bound Hamadan is a large Town but in many places of it void spaces there being many Gardens and Ploughed Fields within the Walls the Houses are Stately yet built of Brick baked in the Sun It has one fair Street where they sell Stuffs and Cloaths ready made it has many Shops in it and lies near the Bezestein which is little but well compacted and indeed it is a Town of a pretty Trade many Caravans coming thither out of Turkey and other parts to buy and sell Merchandize though the Air and Water are unwholsome and no Wine to be found so that I was very ill there which made me hasten to be gone to a more agreeable Air. It is Commanded by a Cham under the King of Persia who is the same there as a Bassa in Turkey The Armenians have a Church here but keep it in no good Order To this and other Chams the King every Year sends a Rich Vest who go out of the Gate to receive it and return with it on without any other Ceremony then being attended by the chief Men of the place on Horseback and this is usually Cloth of Gold From hence we took Mules with our Lading for five Abasis a piece and one of these will carry 600 weight if need requires it and so taking leave of those of the Caravan that staid to negotiate their Affairs we set forward for Ispahan the Regal City of Persia and Metropolis of the Kingdom in a very strong Troop for though such care has been taken that Robberies are less frequented in Persia than in Turkey yet it is prudence however to be armed against Danger and passing early in the Morning through the King's Gate so called because it looks towards the Royal City We Traveled over Hills and Downs the way often altering from good to bad till we came to the Town of Nischar where we refreshed our selves in a ruinous Kervanserai on the Ground where Carpets were spread and drank Water out of a leathern Jugg called there a Matera From thence we Marched along the River side and came to lodg at another Village called Boulousch Kisar and the next Day encamped under Trees near Haran another Village where we were warned by our Muliters to keep a good Guard in the Night time for they told us Spys had been amongst us that Day to visit our Arms and see how we were provided but whether they liked them not or stood in fear I know not but certain it is we had there no disturbance Early in the Morning we marched again and passed by several pleasant Villages and Gardens and foarding the little River Dizava we came to a Town of that Name lying amongst Gardens in a spacious Plain and here we had a plentiful shower of Rain which was the first except a little mizling in our way since my departure from Aleppo and so by a long Journey taking in our way Sari Debile Mouchasaba Machat Scheber-Gird Angovan Agatch or Farsang Nichova Fagasun Ithua Ghulpaigan Arbane Deba little Villages and Towns of no great Note and passing by divers Kervanserais we came to Ispahan having seen by the way several Antelopes a great Beast between a Deer and a Goat very smift in running and climbing the Mountains CHAP. XIII A Description of Ispahan in what is curious and worthy of Remark in it ISpahan as I told you is the Principality and stands in the Province of Iraca part of the Ancient Parthia Here the Air is Dry Pleasant and more wholsome than in many other parts which is one main Reason the King usually keeps his Court here This City was Anciently called Hecatompolis being Recorded to have had 100 Gates It is beautified with Walls of a great heighth built of a red kind of a Marble and though the Houses are very Stately they are built with Brick baked in the Sun daubed over with a fine Clay mingled with Straw and white cast over with a very fine Plaister which is made of a Stone got out of the Neighbouring Mountains and burned to that whiteness this Plaister is the third part of the Charge of building a House they burn their Tiles indeed in a Kiln but they are not so lasting as ours There is in this City many very stately Mosques curiously adorned also sundry Pallaces Seraglios and Buildings of great Antiquity but many of the most Ancient are Ruinous The Persians take great delight in their Houses keeping them very neat and adorning them with curious Paintings Carpets and Tapestry for in these and their Gardens seem to consist their greatest Pride The Walls of this City will take 5 or 6 Hours at a pretty round pace on Foot to compass them because within them there are spacious Gardens adorned with pleasant Flowers and delicious Fruit-Trees served by Aquaducts that run there in Chanels watering and Fructifying the several quarters and in those Gardens are artificial Mounts bedded with Flowers and pleasant Summer-houses on the top of them shaded with Trees besides many stately Pallaces and the quarter where these are is called the New Town The Suburbs of this City are very large and the Nobles have Pallaces in it