snow of Berlino are forced now and then as I was once to passe ouer the mountain Splug which is hill enough for any traueler From our Ladyes of Tirano I went vp a smart hill called Mount Aurigo and so makeing towards the Lake of Wallinstade I passed it ouer in boate as I did also soone after that of Isee and so fell into the territories of Brescia in Italy belonging to the state of Venice My fourth Voyage MY fourth voyage into Italy was from Lyons againe and Geneua where I now tooke the Lake on my left hand and passing along the skirts of Sauoye I came to Boueretta a little Village and so to S. Maurice the first towne in the Valetians country This towne is so called from S. Maurice the Braue Commander of the Theban Legion in the primitiue times and who was martyred here for the profession of Christian Religion together with his whole Legion Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigismond King of Burgondy and called S. Maurice Now this country is called the country of the Valesians from the perpetuall Valley in which it lyeth The people haue for their Prince the Bishop of Sion the cheif towne of the country Their Valley is aboue four dayes iourney long besides their hills which are two more Most of their little townes and Villages stand vpon hill sides leauing all the plain country for tillage and pasturage Their houses are low and darke many of them hauing no windowes and the rest very little ones Sed casa pugnaces Curios angusta tegebat As for the people here they are all Catholicks sinceare honest men of stout courage yet of innocent liues much snow quenching their lust and high mountains staueing of from them all luxe and Vanity the harbingers of Vice They haue short hair on their heads but beards in folio They are got so farre into the grande mode as to weare breeches and doublets but that 's all for otherwise their clothes looke as if they had been made by the Taylors of the old Patriarcks or as if the fashion of them had been taken out of old hangings and tapistry In fine both men and women here are great and massiue and not easily to be blowne away so that I may iustly say of this people as Cardinal Bentiuoglio sayd of the Swissers that they are good for the Alpes and the Alpes for them One thing I obserued particularly in this windy country which is that they haue many natural fooles here which makes me thinck it no vulgar errour which is commonly sayd that the climats that are most agitated with winds produce more fooles then other climats do As for their strength vpon a defensiue occasion they can assemble forty thousand men together vnder their knowne Commanders who are often times the Innkeepers in whose houses we lodge but out of their owne pit they are not to be feared haueing neither spirits nor sinnews that is neither ambition nor money to carry on a forrain warre From S. Maurice I went to Martigni a great Inn in a poore Village and from thence to Sion Sion anciently Sedunum is the cheif towne of the country and stands in the center of it Here the Bishop who is Prince resideth with his Chapter and Cathedral on one hill and his Castle stands on another hill hard by The Court of this Prince is not great because of his and his peoples quality A good Bishop hath something els to do then to be courted and good plain people must follow their trads not Courts This Prince hath no Gards because no fears and if danger should threaten him his people whose loue is his onely Arsenal haue hands enough to defend him So that the Prince and People that is the Body Politick of this state seemed to mee like the Body natural in man where the soul and the body being freinds together the soul directs the body and the body defends the Soul From Sion I went to Lucia but lodged a quarter of a mile from the towne and from thence I reached Briga at night Briga is a little Village standing at the foot of great hills where haueing rested well all night at the Colonels house the best Inn here we began the next morning to clime the hills for a breakfast For the space of three houers our horses eased vs the ascent not being so surley as we expected from so rugged a brow of hills but when wee came to the steep of the hill it self Mount Sampion one of the great Staircases of Italy we were forced to compliment our horses and go a foot It was towards the very begining of October when we passed that way and therfore found that Hill in a good humour otherwise it s froward enough Haueing in one houres time crawled vp the steep of the Hill we had two houres more rideing to the Village and Inn of Sampion where arriueing we found little meat for our great stomacks and cold comfort for all the hot stincking Stone At last haueing payd for a dinner here though we saw nothing we could eate we were the lighter in purse as well as in body to walke well that afternoone rather then that afterdinner To describe you the rough way we had between Sampion and Deuedra downe hill alwayes or fetching about hills vpon a narrow way artificially made out of the side of those hills and sometimes sticking out of them as if it had been plaistered to them were able to make my pen ake in writing it as well as my leggs in walkeing it And here I found the Prouerb false which saith that its good walking with a horse in ones hand for here we could neither ride nor lead our horses securely but either the one or the other were in danger of stumbling that is of falling fiue hundred fadome deep For here as well as in warre semel tantum peccatur a man need but stumble once for all his lifetime Yet by letting our horses go loose with the bridle on their necks and makeing a man go before each horse least they should iumble one another downe as I once saw the like done by horses in Swisserland we arriued safely at Deuedra that night You would do well also to light from horse at the going ouer all the little trembling Bridges of wood which you will finde there remembring the Italian Prouerb which saith Quando tu Vedi vn Ponte falli piu honore che iu non fai a vn Conte Haueing reposed all night in the house of the Signor Castellano we went the next morning to Domodoscela a litle garrison towne of the state of Milan troublesome enough to trauelers that passe from Milan this way and carry pistols and gunns without licence From Domodescela we passed through a fine plain country to Marguzzi a little Village standing vpon the Lake Maior anciently called Lacus Verbanus where making our bargain with our
Sea side This towne is so called from the Senones Galliae It s a very neat and pleasant towne standing in a sweet ayre It s a Bishops seat Here began anciently Gallia Cisalpina From hence we went to Fano Fanum fortunae because of the Temple of Fortune built here in memory of a battle wonn by the Romans near the Riuer Metaurus hard by were Asdrubal Hannibals brother was slaine Here 's an ancient Triumphal Arch yet standing Not farre from this towne also Narsetes ouercame Totila It s an Episcopal towne From hence we went to Pesaro standing also most pleasantly by the Seaside It s called Pesaro and Pesaurum in Latin from the weighing here of the gold which the Romans beseiged in the Capitol sent hither to be payd to the Gaules sayth Seruius It once belonged to the Dukes of Vrbin but for want of heirs male fell to the Church by right From the bridge of stone which is here beginns the Marca d'Ancona The ayre here is thought by Vranoscopists to be the best in Italy as are also the figgs here From hence we passed by Catholica a poore Village adorned with nothing but a stately Name and an Inscription vpon the wall of the Chappel rendering you the reason why this towne is called Catholica which was this When the Emperour Constantius a fierce Arrian vsed violence to the Fathers that had been assembled in the Council of Arimini a towne not farre off and would not suffer them to depart their business being done which they came for to wit the Catholick Faith of the Council of Nice being here asserted and confirmed till they had complyed with the Emperors faction consisting of Arrians Many of them too weakly being weary of so long a stay from their Seats fell to an vnworthy complyance with the Arrian party Which the zealous orthodoxe Fathers seeing left Rimini and came into this little Village because they would not communicate with the Arrians Wherevpon this Village got the name of Catholica because the true Catholike and orthodoxe Fathers retired hither If you aske me then whether this Council of Rimini were good or no I answer you that the Council was good and orthodoxe and confirmed the Fayth of the Nicen Council against the Arrians which was the business it was called about And what happened afterwards when the Council was ended by the oppression of the Emperor is not to be imputed to the Council but to some weake Fathers as an error of conuersation and a too vnworthy complance From Catholica we went to Rimini called Arriminum in Latin this is a pretty towne in which the foresayd Council was kept In the market place I saw the stone set now vpon a pedestal vpon which Caesar stood when he made a speech to his soldiers to make them resolue to march vp to Rome Hard by in the same market place stands a little round Chappel famous for a miracle wrought there by S. Antâ—ny of Padua in confirmation of the â—eall Presence The History is too long but seen here painted round the Chappel with a cast of an eye From hence we went through Cesena an Episcopal towne and Forli Forum Liuij an other BP s seat in the way before we came to Cesena we saw an old inscription in stone set vp by a little riuers side which I found to be the very Decree of the old Senate of Rome forbiding in general any Officer or soldier whatsoeuer to passe ouer the Rubicon vpon payne of being iudged an enemy to his country and guilty of High Treason By which words I gathered that this little riuer here now called Pistatello was Rubicon mentioned in the Decree of the Senate and that this Decree pointed at Iulius Caesar and his army Yet Caesar being resolued to march vp to Rome with his army made aspeech to his soldiers and finding a compliance in their resolutions passed ouer Rubicon cryeing out Iacta est alea â—e must now either sink or Swim and so passed on to Rome which he soon possessed himself of then of the world When once powerfull men draw their swords they throw away their scabbards and when once they haue offended beyong pardon they strike at the very throat of authority running vpon that horrid maxime that scelera sceleribus sunt tuenda From Forli we passed on the right hand to Faenza Fauentia in Latin leauing the way on the left hand which leads to Imola Bolognia Faenza is a neat towne as all the others we had passed by before but hauing no considerable thing in it but white earthen pots called Vessel of Faenza we stayd not long in it but made towards Ferrara In the way I found little worth observation except onely that as we traueled one night somewhat late for cooleness I saw millions of little flyes in the ayre carrying a bright light about them like glowwormes They continued all the way to our Inne for two houres after sunset especially vpon the corne fields and high grasse It was huge pretty me thought to see heauen vpon earth all most and flyeing starrs conduct vs to our lodgeing A Poâ—t would haue sworne by all the cordes of Apollos harpe that Iupiter then was makeing Vulcan paue the Vault of heauen with a Mosaick worke of Diamands and that these were onely the sparks that fell from him or that he was repareing the old caussey of the Via Lactea with fresh starrs and that these were the old ones which he had throwne away I catched some of these fiery flyes to see where it was that they carryed their little Lanternes and candles and I found it was in their tayles The country people call them Lucciole And I beleeue these are those flyes which Pliny calls Cicindelas and Aristotle calls 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Passing thus along we came late to a little Village and the next morning betimes to Ferrara This towne of Ferrara was once the Seat of a Soueraine Prince of the house of Esté but for want of heirs male after the death of Alfâ—nso the II. it fell to the Church and Clement the VIIII tooke possession of it in person by an Entry and Ceremony worthy of the pen of Cardinal Bentiuoglio who was there The towne stands in a plaine carrying aboue four miles compasse it hath a good Citadell strong walls ramparts bulworks and a good garrison of soldiers Here are fair streets and very hansome Pallaces but people are somewhat thin The things which I saw here where these 1. The Dâ—mo ancient rather then beautifull 2. Oueragainst it two Statues in brass of the Princes of the house of Esté the one Duke the other Marquis the one Sitting the other on Horseback 3. Behinde these Statues is the House of Justice or Towne house 4. The strong pallace of the Dukes anciently is in the middle of the towne with a great mote about it the court within is painted with the
greatest Princes in Italy the Duke of Sauoy and Prince of Piedmont who is also treated with the title of Altezza Reale and Vicario Generale del Imperio in Italia This house of Sauoy which now gouerns here came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony in the yeare of Christ 636 and hath conserued it self euer since that is for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of heroical Princes whose Pedegree was neuer vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate offspring Fiue Emperors and four Kings haue yssued out of this house Anciently the Dukes of Sauoy kept their Court at Chambery or els at Bourg en Bresse a country now belonging to France vpon exchang with the Marquisat of Saluzzo as many of their tombes curiously cut in marble in the Augustins Church there yet shew It was Amadeo the Vof that name Duke of Sauoy that transferred the Court to Turin It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Granfather Amadeo the IV who had defended Rhodes so brauely instituted the kinghthood of the Annunciata with this single motto in the collar of the order F. E. R. T. signifying that Fortitudo Eius Rhodum Tenuit The subiects of this Prince are sayd to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls His whole country with Piedmont and all is iudged to be two hundred miles long and fifty broad His forces thirty three thousand foot and fiue thousand horse and his Reuenews to be about a million of crownes besides what he can now and then rayse out of that fat country of Piedmont His Jnterest is to keep well with France and not fall out with Spayne As for the towne it self of Turin it s almost squar and hath four gates in it a strong Cittadel with fiue bastions to it it s well furnished with good prouisions in the market it stands in a fat soyle which makes it a little too durty in winter and it is an vniuersity The cheif things which I saw here were these 1. The Domo or Great Church in which is kept with great deuotion the Holy Syndon in which our Sauiours body was wound vp and buryed of the Verity of this Relick see Baronius in his Ecclesiastical History ad an 34 num 138. It s keept in a Chappel ouer the High Altar and showne publickly vpon certain dayes and priuatly To Embassadours and Prelats as they passe that way The late Duchesse Madame Christina began to make a fine Chappel for to keep it in but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last The Chappel is all of black marble adorned with stately black marble pillars indeed winding sheets such as this Relick is are things of mourning and are best set out in a mourning way 2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the towne and keeping it in awe This Duke and his mother found the conuenience of this Cittadelle when by factions within the towne against them they were forceed to this Cittadelle and there weather it out stoutly till succour comeing to them from France made them masters againe of the towne and their enemyes 3. The Dukes new Pallace hansomely buâ—lt with a fair Court before it a great Piazza and a large open street leading vp to it The Chambers are faire and hung with hangings of cloth of Tyssue of a new and rich fabrik with rich embrodered beds chairs stools cloth of State and Canopies The Dutchesses Cabinet the curious bathing place aboue hund round with the true pictures in litle of the prime Ladyes of Europe The curious inuention for the Dutchesse to conuey her selfe vp from her bedchamber to that bathing roome by a pully and a swing with great ease and saifty the great Hall painted curiously the Noble staircase the old long Gallery 100 paces long with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Sauoy with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philosophers in marble with a rare Library locked vp in great cubbords are the cheif rooms and ornaments of this Pallace I saw also the Appartiments or lodgeings of the old Dutchesse Madame Christina which ioyne to the old Gallery and in her Cabinet I saw many choyce pictures 4. The new street which runeth from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale is a fair street and built vniformly The shops below afford great conueniency to the townes men and the fair lodgings aboue to the noblemen and Courtiers 5. The Piazza Reale is built hansomly vpon Pillars like our Couent Garden and is full of nothing els but noblemens houses 6. The Augustins Church called S. Carlo standing in this piazza adornes it much being a neat Church and the best contriued that I saw in this towne 7. The Capucins Church vpon a hill out of the towne is aboue the rate of Capucins but you must know who gaue it not who haue it From hence I had a perfect view of Turin with the country about it 8. Some three miles out of the towne I saw a neat house of the Dukes called La Venerie Royale The Court set round with staggâ— heads the chambers full of good Pictures the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke his mother his sisters and other Ladyes all on horseback as if they were going a hunting the place where they keep pheasants partridges and other such like birds the stable for 100 horse and the neat dogkennel are the best things to be seen in this house 9 On the other side of the towne about a mile of I saw the old Dutchesses house called La Valentine It stands pleasantly vpon the banks of Po and is adorned with great variety of pictures In fiue or six roomes on the right hand of the house they shewed me a world of pictures of all sorts of Flowers on the left hand as many of all sorts of birds with other pictures curiously painted The four pictures representing the four Elements with all that belongs to them as all the birds that fly in the air all the beasts that are found vpon the Earth all the fishes and shells that are found in the water and all things that belong to fire are so curiously painted in their seueral particular shaps colours that these four peeces are and abridgment of all nature and the admiration of all that behold them There are some other good peeces here too as the Magdalen fallen into an extasie the rapt of the Sabins and diuers others The others houses about the towne as Millefleur belonging to the Duke the Villa of the Princesse Marie with diuers others which shew themselues vpon the Hill side are very stately and worth seeing Hauing thus seen Turin we left the ordinary road which leads to Milan to wit by the way of Vercelle and Nouara two strong townes frontier to one another through which I passed in another voyage and to auoyd two armyes which lay in the way
the Borromaei painted within at the entrace with the Motto of S. Charles who was of this family HVMILITAS It s related in the life of this Holy Prelate that in twenty years space that he was Archbishop and Cardinal here he went but twice to visit his owne neare Relations in this Pallace and descended but twice into his owne garden in his Archiepiscopal Pallace so much worke found he it to play the part of an Archbishop well The Pallaces also of the Visconti of the Sfortii of the Triuultii and many others deserue to be seen exactly 22. The Castle or Citadelle one of the best in Europe in the opinion of the Duke of Rohan a competent jugde It stands within and without the towne that is at the back of the towne like a rod tyed at the childs back to keep him in awe It s garded by a garrison of fiue hundred natural Spaniars with a special Gouernour of its owne independent of the Gouernour of Milan It lookes more like a towne then a Castle being a mile and a halfe about and furnished withall conueniences a soldier can require The large streets in it the stately houses and Pallaces for the chief commanders the neat piazzas the number of well furnished shops in all kindes euen goldsmiths too the fiue fountaines or Wells not to be dryed vp the Mill the Hospital the Church with eight or ten Chaplains in it and a Curate the faire place of armes capable of six thousand men two hundred great peeces of Cannon vpon the walls the six Royal bastions the regular fortifications or outworks the vnderground way from one bastion to an other the infinit heaps of Cannon bullets some whereof weigh 800 pound weight the three large and deep ditches round about the Castle the stately entrance gate and two strong towers make this Castle one of the most Caualier curiositys a man can see in Italy They shewed me here the Cannon which killed Mareshal Crequy before Breme and for that seruice its allowed to rest here for euer 23. The shops of Crystals where you haue a world of curiositys in crystal as watch cases twizercases little boxes pictures cut in crystal crosses and beads of crystal c. The shops also of silkstockings which are hugely esteemed in Italy because they are twice as strong as ours and very massiue The shops in fine of embroderers whose embroderie in gold and syluer is the best in the world and the cheapest 24. Here is an Academy of wits called the Nascosti or Hidden men But Why Hidden seing Wit like the Sun should shine publickly and not bury it self except it be to shew vs that as the Sun neuer shins brighter then after he hath been hidden in a Cloud so wit neuer shins more then after it hath been hidden in Study Hence was that saying of a graue Philosopher Absconde vitam that is lye hidden a while at the dug of the booke Indeed Demosthenes caused his hair to be shaued off that by that deformity he might be ashamed to go abroad and so bee obliged to study at home As for this Academy it helps much to animate with wit this great towne which otherwise would looke like Polyphemus hauing lost his eye great but blinde Tumor non est magnitudo 25. The most famous men of this towne for learning haue been these Valerius Maximus for history Alciatus Decius and Iason for Law Cardan for Philosophy Panigarola and Paulus Aresius for Sermons Bonacina for Canon Law and Octauius Ferrarius whom I knew lately in Padua for belle lettere 26. Two other men here are famous for other things to wit Vberto Crucio and Gulielmo Pusâ—erula the first so strong that he could stop a horse in his full gallop with one hand lift vp vpon his back a horse loaden with corne and stand so stifly vpon his leggs that no man though running against him with all his force could push him out of his place or posture The other without any learning at all except his first Grammar Rudiments could with his natural wit onely decide law cases and make such good orders that the best Lawyers could not finde what to adde to them or what to diminish from them It s pitty these two men had not been melted into one to haue made one excellent man by their clubbing wit and force together and their mingling of Sana mens with Corpore sano The Reuenues that Spayne dawes from Milan yearly are two millions and four hundred thousand crownes besides the thirds to which they are obliged in time of warre This state for a need can rayse fifty thousand men He that desires to know the History of Milan let him read Corio of the history of Milan Ripamontius Scipio Barbono of the liues of the Duks of Milan and Paolo Morigi Hauing this seen Milan in six dayes time we tooke horse for Bologna six dayes journey from hence and passed through Marignano Lodi Piacenza Parma Regio Modena Fort Vrbano and so to Bologna of each I will say something Marignano is a little towne about ten miles distant from Milan and from thence to Lodi the way is most pleasant and leuel as an alley Neare to this towne Francis the first of France fought with the Swissers a famous battle and killed 16000 of them and tooke Ludouicus Sforza the Duke of Milan who thought to haue escaped in Swissers clothes but was discouered Lodi is a good iust towne and frontier vpon the Venitians the riuer Adda runs vnder its walls It s called Lodi either because it s built vpon the ruines or neare to old Lodi which was called Laus Pompeia because Pompey had restored it This towne is famous for excellent neats tongues and cheeses as big as milsâ—ones A gentleman of this towne caused four cheeses to be made each one weighing 500 pound weight The people here mow their Hay three times a yeare and I am affrayd they are powled as often with taxes Piacenza or Pleasance deserues its name by reason of its sweet situation in a rich country neare the Po and Trebia two great riuers Neare the last of which Hannibal ouercame Sempronius the Roman Consull The country round about this towne is very rich in pasturage Hence their excellent cheeses and rare creame It aboundeth also in Saltpits which afford no small profit This towne belongs to the Duke of Parma The best things to be seen here are the Equestris statua of the second Alexander the Great or the first Alexander of Parma It s in brasse in the market place The old Fountain made by Augustus Caesar The rare picture of Raphaels hand in the Benedictius Church behind the high Altar The Churches of the Dominicans and the Canon Regulars are no contemptible ones I obserued in this towne a notable peece of thriftiness vsed by the Gentlewomen who make no scruple to be caried to their country bouses neare the towne
part the doggs here runn whineing away when they see a troupe of strangers arriue and saw the experiment of that famous Grotta which being but three yards within the side of the hill may be seen without entring into it The experiment is this A man takes a dog aliue and holding downe his head with a woodden forke to the ground the dog begins first to cry and then to turne vp the white of the eyes as if he would dye Then letting him hold vp his head againe he recouers And haueing thus twice or thrice shewed vs the experience of this infectious place he putts downe the dogs head againe and holds it downe so long till the dog seems to be dead indeed Then takeing him by the stiff leg and running with him to the Lake Agnano some forty paces off the throws him into the shallow water of this Lake and presently he begins to recouer and to wade out They would make vs beleeue that as it is the nature of this Grotta to kill so it is the nature of this Lake to reuiue dead things againe But if the dog were dead indeed all the water of Agnano though it were Aqua Vitae would not recouer him he is onely astonied with the infectious vapor which breatheth out of this Sulphurious ground below The pestilent nature of this Grotte was shewd vs plainly by a lighted torch which as long as it was held high from the ground burnt clearly but as it was approached by little little neare to the ground it grew dimmer and dimmer till at last it burnt blew and being held close to the ground it went quite out Then we were showne hard by the stones of S. Gennaro which by a natural sulphurious vapour yssueing strongly from low causes put a man presently into a sweat and are excellent remedyes for the Neapolitan disease called by some authors Campanus Morbus Nature an indulgent mother thinking her self bound to afford a remedy to the discorders which she her self hath enclined the Neapolitans vnto Then fetching about the hills by a norrow vnfrequented way we came to the Conuent of Capucins standing there where S. Ianuarius was beheaded In a little Chappel on the right hand as you enter into the Church they shewd vs the stone vpon which he was beheaded the blood is still vpon it From hence we descended downe into the Sulphatara where the burning Sulphur smokes out perpetually from vnder ground This Sulphatara is a kind of pit enuironed on all sides with banks and it is about 1500 foot long and 1000 broad We rid downe into it on horseback and it sounded hollow vnder our horses feet as if we had been rideing ouer a woodden bridge There are diuers spiracula or Vents round about it out of which the thick smoke presseth furiously as out of a fornace and makes Poets and Potters finde matter enough those for their Fables calling it Forum Vulcani These for their Medicinal pots which they make of this brinstony earth Neare to Sulphatara stands a round poole of black thick water which alwayes boyleth and what soeuer you throw into it it comes out boyled indeed but not entire something or other of it being alwayes diminished sayth Leandro Alberti One putting in four eggs in a long ladle pulled out but three againe I wonder Poets faigned not this Lake to be that part of hell alotted to punish vsurers seing it takes vse for euery thing that 's put into it Descending from Sulphatara to Puzzolo we wondered to see the very high way smoke vnder our horses feet when yet we found not them so fiery vnder vs but I found the smoke to come out of little chinks of the dryed ground which shewd vs that the whole country was on fire vnder vs. Before we came to the towne we saw the remnants of a faire Amphitheater and Ciceros Academy Immediatly after this we came to Puzzuolo so called either from the multitude of springs about it or els a putore from the smell which this brinstony country affords The towne is but little yet anciently a Bishops Seat Takeing boat here presently we passed ouer the creek of the Sea to Baiae which is three miles from hence and as we rowd along I admired the wild designe of Caligula who built a bridge from Puzzuolo to Baiae some of the Arches yet standing on both sides show vs that his folly was real and I beleeue Suetonius meant this worke when he taxeth the insanas substructiones the mad buildings of this Emperour That which contributed much to the bold attempt was the nature of the sand of this country which made into morter and let downe into the water grows hard and solid euen to petrify there at last Puteolanus puluis si aquam attigit saxum est Reaching the other side of the bay and leauing our boate to attend vs we rambled for an hour and a half among the Antiquityes of this ruined Paradise of Baiae for you know Nullus in orbe locus Baiis praeluxit amaenis First we were led to the Mercato di Sabato looking still like a street with ruines of houses on both sides Thence we went to the Elisian Fields which are much beholding to Poets for their fame otherwise they are but a very common plot of ground without any gracefulness at all except onely that if Baiae were a towne still a man might make a fine Bowling ground here But Poets who haue power and Licence to â—rect Ithacum into a kingdome haue out-poëted it here by erecting this little spot of ground into a Paradise Thence we came presently to the Piscina Mirabili a vast building vnder ground borne vp by forty or fifty great squar pillars loÌ„g 150 paces 40 wide 30 high We descened into it by many steps it s so well walled with stone and lime on all sides that water cannot sink through and all this was onely to keep fresh water in either for the Roman Gallyes that vsed to lye hereabouts in these harbours or els for the Romans gusto who hauing their curious Villas here abouts had no mind to drink of the springs of this bituminous country At the top of this Piscina Mirabili I espied some spoutes of stone yet remayning by which they vsed to let the water from aboue into this Vast Reseruer Returning againe we were showne the Promontory of Misenum a farre off and the Mare Mortuum hard by Then we went into the Cento Camerelle so called from a hundred little roomes that were built together like chambers within one an other to keep slaues in who serued the Gallyes Going againe towards our boate we were showne the place where Agripina should haue been drowned by a false bottomed boate but that fayling her sonn Nero caused her to be stabed here Indeed breasts that had turned their blood into milk to giue suck to such a monster could expect nothing else but to be
is a midling humour between too much grauity of the spaniard and too great leuity of the French Their grauity is notwithout some fire nor their leuity without some fleame They are apish enough in Carneual time and vpon their stages as long as the visard is on but that once off they are too wise to play the fooles in their owne names and owne it with their owne faces They haue strong fancies and yet solid iudgements A happy temper which makes them great Preachers Politicians and Ingeniers but withall they are a little too melancholy and gealous They are great louers of their brethren and neare kinred as the first freinds they are acquinted withall by nature and if any of them lye in passe and fair for aduancement all the rest of his relations will lend him their purses as well as their shoulders to help him vp though he be but their younger brother They are sparing in dyet both for to liue in health and to liue hansomly making their bellyes contribute to the maintenance of their backs and their kitchen help to the keeping of their stable They are ambitious still of honours remembering they are the successors of the masters of the world the old Romans and to put the world still in mind of it they take to themselues the glorious names of Camillo Scipione Julio Mario Pompeo c. They are as sensible allso of their honour as desirous of honours and this makes them strickt to their wife 's euen to gelousy knowing that for one Cornelius Tacitus there haue been ten Publij Cornelij and that Lucius Cornificius is the most affronting man They are hard to be pleased when thy haue been once read hoat with offence but they will not meet reuenge in the face and feild and they will rather hire it then take it In fine they affect very much compounded names as Piâ—colomini Capilupo Bentiuoglio Malespina Boncompagno Maluezzi Riccobono Malatesta Homodei and such like marryed Names As for their Manners they are most commendable They haue taught them in their bookes they practise them in their actions and they haue spred them abroad ouer all Europe which owes its Ciuility vnto the Jtalians as well as its Religion They neuer affront strangers in what habit soeuer they appeare and if the strangenesse of the habit draw the Jtalians eye to it yet he will neuer draw in his mouth to laugh at it As for their apparel or dresse it s commonly black and modest They value no brauery but that of Coache and horses and Staffiers and they sacrifize a world of little satisfactions to that main one of being able to keep a Coache Their Points de Venice ribans and goldlace are all turned into horses and liueries and that money which we spend in treats and Tauernes they spend in coache and furniture They neuer whisper priuately with one another in company not speak to one another alowd in an vnknowne tongue when thy are in conuersation with others thinking this to be no other then a lowd whispering They are precise in point of Ceremony and reception and are not puzzeled at all when they heare a great man is comeing to visit them There 's not a man of them but he knowes how to entertain men of all conditions that is how farre to meet how to place them how to stile and treat them how to reconduct them and how farr They are good for Nunciatures Embassies and State employments being men of good behauiour lookes temper and discretion and neuer outrunning their businesse They are great louers of Musick Meddales Statues and Pictures as things which either diuert their melancholy or humor it and I haue read of one Jacomo Raynero a shoomaker of Bolognia who gathered together so many curious Meddals of Gold siluer and brasse as would haue becomne the Cabinet of any Prince In fine they are extreamely ciuil to one another not onely out of an awe they stand in one towards another not knowing whose turne it may be next to come to the highest honours but allso out of a natural grauity and ciuil education which makes euen schoolboyes an insolent Nation any where else most respectfull to one another in words and deeds treating one another with Vostra Signoria and abstaining from all gioco di mano Nay masters themselues here neuer beat their seruant but remitt them to justice if the fault require it and I cannot remember to haue heard in Rome two women scold publickly or man and wife quarrel in words except once and then they did it so priuatly and secretly and scolded in such a low tone that I perceiued the Italians had reason about them euen in the middst of their choler As for their particular customes they are many They marry by their eares oftener then by their eyes and scarce speake with one another till they meete before the Parish Priest to speake the indissoluable words of wedlock They make children go barehead till they be four or fiue years old hardening them thus against rhumes and catarres when they shall be old Hence few people in Italy go so warme on their heads as they do in France men in their houses wearing nothing vpon their heads but a little calotte and women for the most part going all barehead in the midst of winter it self Women here also wash their heads weekly in a wash made for the nonce and dry them againe in the Sun to make their hair yellow a colour much in vogue here among Ladyes The men throw of their hats cuffs and bandes as well as their cloaks at their returne home from visits or businesse and put on a gray coate without which they cannot dine or supp and I haue been inuited to dinner by an Italian who before dinner made his men take of our hats and cloaks and present euery one of vs and we were fiue in all with a coloured coate and a little cap to dine in At dinner they serue in the best meats first and eat backwards that is they beginn with the second course and end with boyld meat and pottage They neuer present you with salt or braines of any fowle least they may seeme to reproach vnto you want of wit They bring you drink vpon a Sottocoppa of syluer with three or four glasses vpon it Two or three of which are strait neckt glasses called there caraffas full of seueral sorts of wines or water and one empty drinking glasse into which you may powre what quantity of wine and water you please to drink and not stand to the discretion of the waiters as they do in other countrys At great feasts no man cuts for himself but seueral caruers cut-vp all the meat at a side table and giue it to the waiters to be carryed to the ghests and euery one hath the very same part of meat carryed vnto him to wit a wing and a legg of wild fowle c. least any one take exceptions that others were
I embarked in the forsayd Gallies and was nine dayes in them before I arriued at Genua haueing seen in the way Toulon Nice Antibo Monaco and Sauona Thus I passed though tediously yet securely from France into Italy by Sea and I could allmost wish my Traueler to take the same course if he were sure to finde two Gallies well manned as I did to carry him thither Otherwise to venture himself as men ordinarily with extraordinary danger do in a little Feluca a boat little bigger then a pair of oares is a thing I would wish none to do but Pyrrhonians and Indifferents who think danger and security to be the same thing For my part though I dare not say with that cowardly Italian who being laughed at for running away in a battle answered I was not affrayd but onely had a mind to try how long a mans skinn well kept would last yet I dare say with Generous Cato that I repent me soundly if euer I went by water when I could haue gone by Land My third Voyage MY third Voyage into Italy was againe by the way of Paris and Lyons but now by Geneua and Swisserland Parting then from Lyons I passed ouer the Grand Credo a smart hill through Nantua standing vpon a Lake and in two dayes came to Geneua Geneua like a good sinke at the bottom of three streets is built at the bottom of Sauoye France and Germany and therefore fit to receiue into it the corruption of the Apostatas of the Roman Church The things which I saw in Geneua were these 1. The great Church of S. Peter the Cathedral anciently of the Bishop of this towne In the Quire I saw yet remaining the Pictures of the twelue Prophets on one side and the pictures of the twelue Apostles on the other side all engrauen in wood The pictures also of the Blessed Virgin Mary and S. Peter in one of the windows Here also I saw the Tombe of the Duke of Bouillon General of the army of Germans called then in France the Reiters who in the battle of Aulneau were beaten by the Duke of Guise and forced to fly to Geneua haueing last 1800 of their men vpon the place most of them with charmes about their necks which they thought would haue made them shott free Mounting vp to the steeple I saw a fair Bell with a Crucifix cast vpon it shewing whose it was and four good peices of ordinance that none may say the Church of Geneua wants Ecclesiasticall Cannons And a little below in the Belfree there liue in seueral Chambers three or four families of husbands and wifes and sucking children begotten there contrary to the Canons of any other Church except those of Geneua From the top of this Church you haue a fair prospect vpon the lake and neighbouring countryes which makes them brag here that they can see from their steeple into six seueral principalities to wit their owne France Sauoye Swisserland the Valesians and the Franchecounty But I told them it would be a greater brag to say that they could see into no other country or dominions but their owne 2. I saw the Arsenal little but well stored with defensiue armes They neuer forget to shew the Ladders of the Sauoyards who attempted to surpize this towne by scaleing but were themselues taken and beheaded à la chaude least some Prince should haue interceded for them 3. The Towne house with the Chamber where the Magistrats something like the Hogen Mogens of Holland sit in Counsel 4. They shewd me here a Library but none of the best 5. The admirable Trouts here able to make the poore Apostatas wish for their Lent againe were it not that the Capons here are full as good in their kinde As for the Gouerment of this towne it was anciently Monarchical and the Bishop was Prince of it vnder the Duke of Sauoye but Farel and Caluin comeing hither with their anarchical Presbyterie droue the Bishop Peter de la Beaume out of the towne and established there a kinde of Democratie or rather a kind of Aristocratie mingled of Laymen and Ministers Yet the Bishop keeps still his title and the Chapter its reuenews and Lands which happily lye in Sauoye out of the reach of the short iurisdiction of Geneua Both the Bishop and Chapter reside in Anisy in Sauoye and officiate in the Cordeliers Church of this Seat was Bishop the late Canonized Saint S. Francis de Sales a man of singular sweetness and piety mingled with zeale and discretion I haue red of him that in his life time he made four thousand sermons to the people Hauing thus seen the little All of Geneua I made towards Swisserland leauing the Lake on my right hād or rather takeing it on my right hand for it would needs accompany me to Lausanna where it tooke leaue of me or I of it This Lake is absolutly the fairest I haue seen it s fairer then either the Lake Maior the Lake of Como the Lake of Zuric the Lake of Walenstat the Lake of Jsee the Lake of Murat or the Lake of Garda In some places this Lake of Geneua is eight miles broad and well nigh fifty miles long I haue red of a stranger who traueling that way alone in winter when the Lake was all frozen ouer and couered with snow tooke the Lake for a large plain and rid vpon it eight or ten miles to the towne Where lighting at his Inn and commending the fine plain ouer which he had ridden was giuen to vnderstand that he had ridden if not in the air at least fifteen fathom aboue ground at which the poore man reflecting vpon the danger he had been in fell downe dead with the conceit of it Thus we are troubled not onely at euils to come but at euils past and are neuer so neare the danger of death as when we are newly past it No animal but man hath this folly Leauing then as I sayd the Lake I came soone after to Lausanna in Swisserland belonging to the Canton of Berne Here I saw an ancient Church of a noble structure and once a Bishops Cathedral but now possessed by Ministers of Caluins communion and the man that shewed vs the Church though no Catholick assured vs that the records of that Church bore that Masse had been sayd in it thirteen hundred yeares agoe From Lausanna I went towards Soleur skirting through the Cantons sometimes of Berne sometimes of Fribourg and sometimes in one dayes iourney I passed into a Catholick Canton and by and by into a Protestant Canton againe for here Catholick and Protestant Villages are mingled together and make the country looke like the back side of a pair of tables checquered with white and black In one Village you haue a Crosse set vp to signifie that it is Catholick belonging to the Canton of Friburg by and by in an other Village a high flag with the picture of a Beare in it to
in coaches drawne by two Cowes yoaked together These will carry the Signora a pretty round trot vnto her Villa Ther afford her also a dish of their milk and after collation bring her home againe at night without spending a penny He that desires to know more of Piacenza let him read Vmberto Loccati Of Piacenza where Cornelius Musso Bishop of Bitonti a great Preacher and a Trent Father as also Ferrante Pallauicini Parma belongs also to the Duke of Parma of the house of Farnese This Dutchy was giuen to Pier Luigi Farnese by Paulus III vpon condition it should hold of the Pope and pay him yearly ten thowsand crownes It s worth to the Duke two hundred thousand crownes This towne of Parma is three miles in compasse hath the riuer Parma running through it ouer which is built a haÌ„some stone bridge The country round about the towne is most fertill and begets such credit to the Cheeses that Parmesan Cheeses are famous ouer all the world The Chief things so be seen in Parma are these The Dukes Pallace with the gardens fountains wildbeasts the admirable Theater to exhibite Operas in The exquisite Coaches of the Duke one whereof is all of beaten syluer with the Seats and crutains embrodered with gold and syluer an other so well guilt and adorned that it s almost as rich as the former lastly the stables where I saw horses sutable both in strenght and beauty to the foresaydâ— coaches Then I went to the Domo whose Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Corregio Lastly to The Capucins in whose Church lyes buryed my noble Heros Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma whom I cannot meet in this my voyage without a compliment He was the Third Duke of Parma but the Tenth worthy Indeed his leaping the first man into the Turks Galleys in the battle of Lepantho with Sword in hand and in the eighteenth yeare onely of his age was such a prognostik of his future worth his reduceing Flanders againe with the prodigious actions done by him at the takeing of Antweep was such a makeing good of the prognostick and his comeing into France in his slippers and Sedan to succour Rouen beseiged by Henry the IV was such a crowning of all his other actions that his history begets beleefe to Quintus Curtius and makes men beleeue that Alexanders can do any thing The Reuenues of this Prince are sayd to be six hundred thousand crownes a yeare Hee is now of the French faction and in all his territories hee can rayse 28000 men Here is an Academy of wits called the Innominati as they that had rather be wise then be talked of or famed for such This towne hath furnished Italy with two excellent Painters Corregio and Parmigiano He that would know the particular history of Parma let him read Bonauentura Arrighi From Parma we went to Regio a towne belonging to the Duke of Modena here is a neat Cathedral Church of which Church S. Prosper was Bishop Of this towne were these three learned men Guido Pancirola Cardinal Tosco and snarling Casteluetro Modena is the towne where the Duke keeps his Court. It s a hansome towne and by its high steeple shews it self to trauelers long before they come to it It hath also a strong Cittadel which lyeing flat and euen with the towne showeth the towne that indeed it can be euen with it whensoeuer in shall rebell The Pallace of the Duke hath some rooms in it as neat and riâ—h as any I saw in Jtaly witness those Chambers hung round with the pictures of those of his family and wainscotted with great Looking Glasses and rich guilding This Duke is of the Family of Estè but not of the true line Wherfore for want of lawfull heirs male Ferrara and Commachio fell to the Church in Clement the VIII time and remain there euer since Of the true house of Estè was the braue Countesse Matilda the dry-Nurse as I may say of the Roman Church For it was she defended Gregory the VII against the Emperour Henry the VI and brought him to aknowlegde his fault and cry the Pope mercy It was she also that by Will and Testament left the Pope Parma Regio Mantua and Ferrara Hence Vrban the VIII out of gratitude to this Princesse caused her Statue and Tombe to be set vp S. Peters Church in Rome The will and Testament of this Princesse are kept in Lucca to his day Hard by Modena was fought the famous battle where Hirtius and Pansa being Consuls the Senate lost in them its authority Of Modena were these famous men in learning Cardinal Sadoletus Carolus Sigonius and Gabriel Falopius In Modena are made the best visards for mascarads and it s no small profit which they draw from this foolish commodity seing stultorum plena sunt omnia The Reuenues of this Duke are three hundred thousand crownes a yeare and he is now of the French faction He can rayse 30000 men From thence passing the riuer we came soone to Fort Vrban a Cittadel most regularly built by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII from whom it s called It s so strong that it is not afrayd to stand night and day alone in the fields and vpon the frontiers of the Popes Estate Passing from hence through Castel Franco anciently called Forum Gallorum we arriued betimes at Bologna Bologna is one of the greatest townes of Italy and one of the hansomest It s the second of the Popes Dominions and the Chief Vniuersity of Italy for Law Hence the Iurists say it is Musarum domus atque omnis nutricula Iuris and the very common coyne of the country tells you that Bononia docet It s named by the Common Prouerb Bologna la grassa because of the fertill foyle in which it stands to wit in the very end of Lombardy and the many springs which humect it from the Apennin hills at whose feet it stands This country was anciently called Felsina Gallia Cisalpina Gallia Togata to distinguish it from Gallia Braccata The country in France neare Narbonne And from Gallia Comata The Country in France called la Guienne In midling ages it was called Romagnola because Bologna Rauenna Cezena Forli Faenza and Imola stood constant to the Citty of Rome against the Lombards for a long time As for the towne of Bologna now it s excellently well built and for the most part vpon arches like the Couent Garden in London onely the pillars are round These Arches bring great conueniency to the inhabitants who can walk all the towne ouer coole and dry euen in Iuly and Ianuary It s fiue miles in compasse and an excellent sommer towne were it not that the ayre is not altogether so pure and the wines heating It s gouerned By a Legat a Latere sent hither by the Pope and in change it sends an Embassador
Holy Haueing sayd thus much â—f the title of Rome I will now make my Reader better acquainted with her by describing the particularyties which I obserued here And that I may not ramble in writeing of Rome as most men do in visiting of it I will begin at the Bridg called now Ponte Angelo and from thenc make the whole gyro of the Citie in order Arriuing then at the Bridg called anciently Pons Aelius because it was built by the Emperor Aelius Adrianus but now called Ponte Angelo because it was vpon this Bridg that S. Gregory the Great saw an Angel vpon the Moles Adriani sheathing his sword after a great plague here wee saw the stately new decoration of Iron worke with the twelue Marble statues set vpon it by this present Pope Clement the IX and looking downe into the riuer on the left hand wee saw the ruines of the Triumphal bridg This bridg was called the Triumphal Bridge because over it Triumphs were accustomed to passe anciently to the Capitol This made it so proud that it scorned that any rustiks or country fellowes should passe ouer it and got a Decree of the Senate for that purpose But pride will haue a fall and the proud Triumphal Bridg hath got such a great one that ther 's but iust so much of it left as to shew where it was once so true is the saying of Ausonius Mors etiam saxis nominibusque venit At first the Romans were modest enough in their Triumphs as in all other things hence Camillus was content with four white horses in his Chariot but afterwards luxe and excesse banishing out of the Citie old modesty they began to striue who should be the most vaine in this point Hence Pompey was drawne in triumph by four Elephants Mark-Antony by four Lyons Nero by four Hermaphrodites which were all four both horses and mares Heliogabulus by four Tygers Aurelianus by six staggs and Firmicus by eight Austridges At the end the Ponte Angelo stands the Castel Angelo so called because as I sayd before S. Gregory in a solemne Procession during the plague saw an Angel vpon the top of Moles Adriani sheathing his sword to signify that God's anger was appeased Before this Miracle happened it was called Moles Adriani because the Emperour Adrian was buryed here It was built anciently in a round forme of vast stones going vp in three rowes or storyes lesser and lesser till you came to the top where stood mounted that great pineapple of brass guilt which we see now in the garden of the Beluedere Round about it were set in the wall great marble pillars and round about the seueral storyes stood a world of Statues This Moles being found a strong place Bellisarius put men into it to defend it against the Gothes and they defended themselues in it a great while by breaking the Statues in peeces and throwing them vpon the heads of the Gothes that besieged them Since that time Diuers Popes haue turned it into a formal Castle Boniface the VIII Alexander the VI and Vrban the VIII haue rendered it a regular Castle with fiue strong bastions store of good Cannons and a constant garison maintened in it From this Castle I saw diuers times these Fortifications and below diuers great peeces of artillary made of the brasse taken out of the Pantheon and they shewed vs one great Cannon which was made of the brazen nayles onely that nayled that brasse to the walls of the Pantheon the length and forme of those nayles is seen vpon that Cannon to shew vnto posterity how great they were with these words vpon it ex claâ—is trabialibus Porticus Agrippae In this Castle are kept prisoners of State the 5 milions layd vp there by Sixtus Quintus the Popes rich triple crownes called Regni and the chief Registers of the Roman Church From the top also of this Castle you see distinctly the long Corridor or Gallery which runns from the Popes Pallace of the Vatican to this Castle for the Popes vse in time of danger It was made by Pope Alexander the VI. and vsed by Clment the VII who by it got safe into the Castle from the fury of the German Soldiers who being many of them Lutherans swore they would eat a peece of the Pope From hence entring into the Borgo we went towards S. Peters Church and in the way stept into the Church of the Carmelits called Santa Maria Transpontina were in a Chappel on the left hand as you enter are seen two pillars of stone enchased in wood to the which S. Peter and S. Paul were tyed when they were whipped before their death according to the Romans custome Here 's also the Head of S. Basil the Greek Father surnamed the Great Here 's also a curious picture of S. Barbara in the Vault by Caualier Gioseppe Going on from hence we came presently to the Pallace of Campeggi so called because it belonged to Cardinal Campeggi the Popes Legat in England to whom Henry the VIII gaue it Heretofore it belonged to the English Embassadors and was one of the best in Rome both for being neare the Popes Pallace and also for that it was well built by famous Bramante It belongs now to Cardinal Colonna Ouer against it stands a little Piazza with a fine fountaine and ioyning to it a little Church called San Jacomo Scozza Caualli in which vnder an Altar on the right hand I saw the stone vpon which Abraham offered to sacrifice his Sonne Isaac and vnder an other Altar on the left hand the Stone vpon which our Sauiour was placed when he was presented in the Temple Both these were brought or sent to Rome by Helen mother of the Emperor Constantin the Great Presently after you come to the Piazza of S. Peter built round about with a noble Portico of free-stone borne vp by four rowes of stately round pillars vnder which not onely the Procession vpon Corpus Christi day marcheth in the shade but also all people may go dry and out of the sun in sommer or winther vnto S. Peters Church or the Vatican Pallace This Portico is built in an oual forme and fetcheth in the great Piazza which is before S. Peters Church and therefore can be no lesse then half a mile in compasse This noble structure was begun by Alexander the VII and half of it finished and the other half is now almost finished I neuer saw any thing more stately then this The number of the pillars and of the statues on the top I do not justly remember In the midst of this Piazza stands the famous Guglia which was brought out of Egypt in the time of the old Romans and dedicated to Augustus Caesar and Tiberius as the words vpon it import It lay hid long in Neros Circus which was there where now S. Peters Sacristy is and at last Sixtus Quintus hauing proposed great rewards to him that would venture to set it
passe their time more cheerfully But for the most part they liue alone condemned to the melancholy horror of their crimes and the solitude of seauen whole weeks in Lent when vpon payne of rigorous punishments and imprisonment they dare not admitt of any customers The like rigour is vsed against them also in Aduent that dureing the space of those holy times these vnholy women may haue time to think of themselues and admit of Gods holy inspirations for their amendment Is it not a punishment to them to be obliged to enter their names publickly in the list of whores For if Tacitus obserues that the old Romans satis paenarum aduersum impudicas in ipsa professione flagitij apud Aediles credebant thought it punishment enough against vnchast women in their very profesing themselues to be such before the Aedils I cannot but think it a great punishment to Christian whores who are at least as sensible as the heathens of the horrible disgrace of haueing their name listed to be thus defamed for euer by remaining whores vpon Record Is it not a punishing of them to depriue them all their life time as long as they liue whores of the holy Sacraments and after their death of Christian Burial Is it not a punishment and a deterring of them from vice to throw their bodyes when they dye into an obscure place out of the walls of the towne as if they deserued no other Burial place then that of Asses Is it not in fine a punishment to them not to be allowed to make any Will or Testament but to leaue all their goods confiscated either to the Hospitals of poore honest girles or to the maintaining of those gards that are to watch ouer their deportments If these punishments both of body soul and honour be inflicted vpon whores in Rome as they are do not vrge any more that whores are not punished in Rome nor discountenanced But why doth not the Pope punish them home and roote them quite out by banishment This hath been attempted by diuers Popes and namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory as Thuanus in his history writes but seeing greater inconueniences and greater sinns arose vpon it prudence which is the salt that must season all moral actions thought it not fit to carry on that rigour nor yet allow of fornication neither So that all the permission of whores in Rome that can colourably be imagined is onely a not punishing of them in all rigour and euen that too for a good end and to hinder greater euils But the Pope being both a Temporal and an Ecclesiastical Superiour is bound in my mind to break through all respects and settle innocency in the world It s zealously spoken and I wish he could do it but difficilem rem optas generis humani innocentiam he wisheth a hard thing who wisheth for the innocency of mankinde sayth a wiseman And if Princes sometimes do not punish factious subiects when they see that the punishing of them would pull the whole State in peeces ouer their heads and put the whole kingdome in danger as it did in Henry the Thirds time in France vpon his causeing of the Duke of Guise to be killed in Blois If Generals of armyes take no notice of some treacherous commander who is vniuersally beloued by the soldiers least the punishing of one man loose them the affection of the whole army as we saw latey in the case of Lubemirsky how truely guilty I know not and some yeares ago I remember in the case of Walstein whose punishment had almost vndone the Emperor why may not the Pope without approueing the sinn of whores prudently waue the punishing of it with all rigour when he sees that such rigour would cause greater disorders in that hot nation and in that citie where all nations seeme to club vices as well as vertues Hence learned Abulensis a great Diuine sayth Licet leges humanae aliqua mala permittant non puniendo nullum tamen malum permittunt statuendo But the Pope should not gouerne according either to human policy or human Lawes and Examples You pretend zeale but you would do well to take her sister Prudence with her as our Sauiour did who when he heard his disciples desireing him to let them call downe fire from heauen vpon the criminal Samaritans answered them calmely you know not of what spirit you are Nay doth not God himself who being able to punish all criminal persons and roote them quite out of the world suffer both his Sun to rise and shine vpon sinners and sinners to offend in this sunshine and often by it Hence S. Thomas sayth much to my purpose Humanum regimen deriuatur a diuino regimine ipsum debet imitari Deus autem quamuis sit omnipotens ac summâ— bonus permittit tamen aliqua mala fieri in vniuerso quae prohibere posset ne iis sublatis maiora bona tollerentur vel maiora mala sequerentur Humane gouerment is deriued from diuine gouerment and ought to imitate it Now God allthough he be allmighty and highly good yet he permits euils to be done in the world which he could hinder least by taking away them greater goods should be taken away or greater euils should follow But I wade too farre into this puddle yet remember who thrust me into it and you l pardon me Behinde the Church and Conuent of the foresayd Penitents stands the Church of San Syluestro in Capite so called from the picture of our Sauiours head and face which our Sauiour himself made by miracle and sent to Abagarus King of Edessa as you may read at length in Baronius and in Bosius in his rare booke called Roma Sotterranea Now this picture is kept here in this monastery and with great probability seing it was here that diuers Greek Monks driuen out of their country by Constantin Copronimus for the defence of sacred Jmages were entertained by the Pope Paul the First and it s very likely that these good men brought with them this famous picture of our Sauiour to saue it from the fury of the Iconoclasts Returning from hence into the Corso againe I went to see there the Colonna d'Antonino the Great Pillar of Antoninus the Emperor It s built iust like that of Traian described aboue It was built by Marcus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor in honour of his Father Antoninus Pius It s all of white marble engrauen without with a basso rilieuo from top to bottom containing the memorable actions of Marcus Aurilius It s 175 foot high hath in it 206 stairs which lead vp to the top of it and 56 little windows giuing light to those stairs and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 stones of marble The caruing that is vpon it contains the braue actions of Marcus Aurelius ouer che Armenians Parthians Germans Wandals and Sarmats or Polonians but age hath so defaced these
you all the way long with a sacred reuerence and are able almost to rend also a stony heart in two with the thought of our Sauiours passion Vpon the top of all this Promontory there is an ancient monument of Manutius Plancus an old Roman with a great deale of old Latin vpon it but my rideing boots put me out of all reading humour and I was very willing to let Plancus lye quietly in his monument aboue so I could but recouer againe our boate there sit still Of this towne was the famous Cardinal Caëtanus of S. Thomas Aquinas his name order and almost learning This towne was built by Aeneas in honour of his Nurse Caëta who dyed here Returning againe to Mola we went after dinner to see Ciceros Grotte and so away We had not ridden three houreâ— but we came to the Ferry of Carigliano neare to which J saw the fair rests of an old amphitheater standing alone in the fields with the rests also of an Aqueduct I wondered at first to see an Amphitheater standing alone and farre from any great towne but vpon enquiry I found that here had stood once a noble towne called Minturna but now so ruined that not one stone of it appeareth Indeed we are often at this fault in Italy and looke for townes in corne fields Luna Populonia Cuma Baiae and Minturna cheat thus our expectations and leaue vs no monument of themselues but a poore Fuit Jlium which though it be Trauelers losse yet its mans comfort that townes to dye as well as hee Hence Rutilius Non indignemur mortalia corpora solui Carnimus exemplis oppida posse mori Hauing passed ouer the riuer in a Ferry boat we entred vpon the medows in whose fennes called the Fens of Minturna Caius Marius lay hid a while and there with his sterne lookes and manly voyce saying Darest thou kill Caius Marius so terrifyed the slaue that was sent thither to kill him that he let him escape to his ship and so into Africk He may speak big that speaks for his life and any lookes become a man when he lookes to himself well in dangers While we rod along these medows we saw before vs the mountain of Garo anciently called Mons Massicus famous for excellent wines as well as the country there about which was called Ager Falernus so famed by Poets for its Vinum Falernum Passing thus along we came at night to S. Agathas and the next morneing betimes we enterd into Campania Foelix so surnamed because of its admirable ayre wonderfull plenty of corne and wine and pleasants prospects on all sides which makes an Ancient call it Câ—rtamen Cereris Bacchi the Strife of Ceres and Bacchus It was this country which with its delights broke Hannibals army which neither snow could coole nor Alpes stop nor Romans Vanquish sayth Seneca Indeed the pleasantness of this country made vs a full mends for all the ill way we had had before nature hauing set that scuruie way there a purpose that men might like her Fauorite Campania the better after it I call this country Natures Fauorite in imitation of Pliny who calls it Opus gaudentis naturae that is a country made by nature when she was in a good humour It s a Heathen that speaks and you must pardon him We intended that day to haue gone to Capua to dinner but when we came thither we did not finde it at home For this towne now called Capua is two miles distant from the place where old Capua stood Indeed the old Capua was a towne of importance for it was either the second or third in the world and stood in competition as Carthage did with Rome Nay it demanded of Rome to be vsed like a Sister not like a Subiect and stood high vpon it that one of the annuall Consuls should alwayes reside here But that Capua is vanished with its vanity and this Capua hath no reason to be so proud being famous for nothing but that action of many noble women here who to auoyd the insolencies of the French soldiers receiued into the towne friendly leapt into the riuer Vulturno to saue their Virginity honour from their lewdness an action rather wonderfull then warrantable There is a Castle here of pretty strength a good riuer and an Archbishops Seat From Capua we passed through Auersa a sweat Seat of a towne and once great till Charles the I King of Naples almost ruined it It s a Bishops Seat still Here it was that Queen Ioanne of Naples strangled her husband Andreasso and was her self not long after serued so too in the same place Traueling some eight miles further we came to Naples before we could see it This towne was anciently called Parthenopâ— from one of the Syrens It s now called Neapolis a new City because the inhabitants of Cumae hauing out of iealousy ruined Parthenope were sore vexed with a plague till they had built it vp againe better then before This happened about the yeare of the world 1449. As for Naples it s now the head of a great kingdome so called This kingdome belongd once to the Emperor but after that it had been ouerun by Sarazins and freed by Pope Iohn the Tenth vnited with Albericâ— Marquis of Toscany it acknowledged the Church for its mistrésse and the first man that was inuested by the Pope Innocent the Second an 1130 was Roger the Second a Normand Since that time the French and the Spaniard haue strugled hugely for this kingdome sometimes the one plucking it to him then the other But now it s vnder the Spaniard who holds it of the Pope and for it payeth euery yeare the purse of gold and the Gennet spoken of aboue This kingdome is of great importance to Spayne It makes his party too strong for France in Italy It corresponds conueniently with Sicily and Milan and strengthens them both In fine it beareth vp notably the interest of spayne in the Court of Rome and it squeizeth it self now and then into huge summes four millions of crownes to send tribute into Spaynes coffers For this kingdome is a thousand fiue hundred miles in compasse four hundred and fifty wide It hath in it twenty Archbishops Seats a hundred and twenty fiue Bishops Seats a thousand fiue hundred Bourgs two millions of soules ten principalityes twenty three Dutchies thirty Marquisats fifty foure Countyes and about a Thousand Baronies whereof four hundred are ancient It can rayse a hundred and fifty thousand foot and a hundred thousand horse It s ordinary squadron of gallyes are but 20. As for the towne it self of Naples if it be the third of Italy for greatness it is the first for strength neatness and therefore deseruedly surnamed La Gentile the Gentile It hath Compania on one side of it and the Mediterranean Sea on the other so that its fed by Natures best duggs Sea
is of pure polished white marble paued with marble squars and adorned round with a baluster and white marble pillars Then entring into an open gallery we had as fine a prospect as Europe can afford not excepting that of Greenwich thought by Barclay the best prospect in Europe For here I saw all Naples vnder me with the perfect sight of the two other Castles with the hauen the Molo the Arsenal the Ships the country round about Naples Mount Vesuuius Pausilipus the Ships at Sea the Promontoryes of Misenum and Minerua the I le of Caprea with a world of other delightfull sights Then I was led into the apartment of the Padre Visitatore where I saw most neat roomes and some good pictures Then going to the Church I found it to exceed the cloyster which before I thought to haue exceeded all other things It s all of marble guilding and painting The pauement is all of curious red and white marble squars as is also the Sacristy The Chappels and pictures match the roof and the pillars with their particular graces The Sacristy is absolutely the richest I euer saw The great cupbords are of such a rare mosaick woodworke inlayd into pictures that it disputes hard with the Quire of the Dominicans in Bologna Here they shewed me a great Crucifix of syluer which had been fifteen yeares in makeing The Remonstrance to expose the B. Sacrament in is made like a sunn whose beames are mingled with syluer and coral The great Candlesticks of massiue syluer and the great flower pots are curiously wrought Then I went to see the three Castles That of S. Elmo which is hard by the Carthusians was built by Charles the V. It stands well vpon its owne gard by reason of its high situation but I doubt whether it can offend any enemy except Naples it self which is vnder it The Castle Vouo was built by William the third of Normandy vpon a rock in the Sea and from its oual forme it s called Castel Vouo There is a digue leading vnto it from the Land The Castle Nuouo was built by Charles of Anjou designed King of Naples It stands neare the Molo and leuel with the towne and Sea as if it could defend and offend both These there Castles are garded by natural Spaniards and well furnished with great Cannons by whose language which is vltima Ratio Râ—gum Kings last arguments the Neapolitans are either catechized into duty or threatened into obedience Indeed such a people and towne are not easily bridled such a wanton Courser as Naples is not to bee ridden with snaffles it hath often plunged vnder the King of Spayne but could neuer fling him quite out of the saddle merce a gli tre Castelli Then I went to see the markets here and fouÌ„d them most admirable especially those of fruit which Campania sends hither and where but the taxes taken off or reasonably moderated Naples would be the cheapest and richest place in the world But the Kings officers if they suck in Milan and Fleece in Sicily they Flea in Naples which vsage droue the people some yeares past into such a desperate humour that they tooke vp armes vnder the coÌ„maÌ„d of Mazaniello his true name was Thomas Angelus Maia a poore fisherman without stokings or shooes who for ten dayes together swaggered here so powerfully in the head of two hundred thousand mutinous people that when he commanded them to burne a house they did it when he commanded them to cast into the fire all the goods papers plate beds hangings c. of the Gabelliers they did it without reserueing the least pretious peece to themselues when he commanded them to cry out Downe with the Gabells they did it when he put his finger to his mouth they were all silent againe as if this poore fisherman had been the soul that animated that great body of people It was prodigious indeed that such a poore yong man not past 23 in wastcoat and drawers and his fishers cap on should finde such obedience from such rich and witty citizens But as tumultuous people make armes of euery thing their fury meets with so they make Captains of euery man that will but head them and as the Prouerbe goes In seditione vel Androclides belli ducem agit They shewed me the house of this fisherman but the other houses shewd me his fury Thousands haue not yet recouered those ten dayes tumults Thus we see that when men are ripe for rebellion Cromwells and Mazaniells are cryed vp for great men or rather when God hath a mind to punish flyes and gnats are powerfull things euen against Princes Here are two Academies of wâ—ts the one called the Ardenti to show their ardour in studyeing the other the Otiosi wisely instituted as an allay to the others heat Some of the famous men for learning of this towne were old Statius rare Sannazarius Alexander ab Alexandro and Iohn Baptist Marini three excellent Poëts and one Antiquary Naples hath furnished the Church with 18 Popes Hauing thus seen the towne it self of Naples I was most willing to see the wonders of nature which are neare vnto it Horseing therefore betimes one morneing we went with a guide to see Vesuuius the burning mountain some seauen miles distant from Naples Our honest guide had studyed the history of this hill and could tell how often it had broken forth into flames since the beginning of the world that is twenty times Xiphilinus the Epitomist of Dio relates at length one that happened vnder the Emperor Titus But the last which happened in the yeare 1631 he rememberd very well and related it to me as we went along with a sad preface of Infandum Peregrine iubes renouare dolorem because he could also say Et quorum pars magna fui haueing been an Actor in that disorder For he was sonn to a rich husbandman here and with much a do Aeneas like he had rescued his old Father from the ashes of Vesuuius which ouerwhelmed and buryed whole Villages Here sayd hee pointing to the place stood a great vineyard one of the best of the Country but now three fathom deep in ashes Here stood a Village full of rich husbandmen and goodly houses but now ruined by the stones shot at it from Vesuuius Here stood once a pleasant Villa beautifyed with curious walks orange trees fountains and arbors but I am cinis est vbi Villa fuit In a word aboue two thousand people were burnt lamed or stifled in this eruption Then he showed me the vast stones which ouerchargeing the stomach of Vesuuius he had vomited vp with such a boaking that Naples thought the day of Iudgement had been at hand Then he shewed me a channel where a Riuer of fiery green matter mingled with brimstone allum iron water and saltpeeter had run from that spewing hill The manner of this breaking out was thus The hill began first to smoke more vehemently
whilst they were sitting in counsel And for this purpose there 's a dore which openeth out of the Senate house into this Armory and the Keys of it are alwayes layd neare the Dogè when he sitts here in consultation Nor is this so much an Italian Iealosy as a prudent caution caused by past dangers For they shew vs in the great Arsenal the armour with one arme onely to be worne vnder a Venetian gowne while the other arme was showed bare to take off all suspicion of Bajamante Theopoli and his complices to the number of eight hundred men who intended to kill the whole Senate while it was assembled and make Baiamante master of Venice But the plot was dasht in the execution because Bajamantes brains were dasht out by a poore woman who seing him march vnder her window in the head of his rebellious crew threw downe from her window a great earthen flower pot vpon his head and killed him dead His party seeing this retired and were soone subded and his house was turned into a Shambles for Butchers a fit disgrace for him who would haue been the Butcher of his Prince and countrymen here also in this Arsenal we saw the sword and armes of braue Scanderbeg Prince of Albania who wonne seauen battles ouer seauen the most illustrious Bassas the Great Turk had and dyed after all peaceably in his Estates in spite of Amurath It s sayd that the great Turk hearing how Scanderbeg with his Sword had clouen men in two sent to him and desired him to send him his sword his cutting sword which hee did the Turck tryed it vpon his slaues and findeing that he could not cleaue men as Scanderbeg had done sent him word that he had not sent him his true sword to whom scanderbeg replyed that he had sent him indeed his sword but not his arme As for this sword which they call here Scanderbegs sword it s a broad thin blade of a reasonable length but light and of as good mettal almost as its master We saw here many other curiosityes as the standard of the Dogè Zani who restored Pope Alexander the III vnto his Seat againe with his sword Buckler Helmet The standard of the great Turk The standard of horses hayre belonging also to the great Turk and which he hung out alwayes before battle as a signal of combat it was taken by a Franchman called Ciotar The Statues of Ludouico Sforza Duke of Milan and of his wife Visconti The statue or head of Carara whom they call the Tyrant but how truly I know not The Statue or head in brasse of brave Venerio General of the Venetians in the battle of Lepanto The head in brasse also of braue Bragadine flead alive by the Turks for his countryes service The picture of santa Iustina in a great case set with rich stones This case was made for a great Lookeing glasse which the Venetians sent vnto the Sultanesse of the great Turk but the ship that carryed it meeting in the way a Fregat which brought the news of a great Victory gotten ouer the Turks by the Venetians vpon Sancta Iustinas day it returnd back againe with the present and the Senate caused the glasse to be taken out and Santa Iustinas picture to be set in place of it Then we saw a rare Carpet or rather a curious peece of stuff with figures in it sent to the Republick of Venice by a King of Persia The habits of two noble Chinesi who were baptized at Venice The amour of braue Gatta Mela with the picture of a catt in his headpeece The armour of some of the ancient Dogès of Venice who to the number of forty or fifty went to warre in person and did such things there as to make their very armour to be honorable The habit buckler and sword of a King ef Persia the armes are set with rich stones The armour of Henry the IIII. of France with his pocket pistol The armour of the Duke of Rohan The compleat armour of a little boy about ten years old who was found dead in a battle feighting for the Venetians and his country and not knowne who he was Poore braue child who being worthy neuer to haue dyed doest not so much as liue in history Indeed I did not think till then that Mars had his abortiues too dyeing before their time and before they were named Then they shewd me Attilas Helmet with the head peece of his horse A Cannon shooting seauen shoots at once as yf death with his single dart went too slowly to worke An other Cannon shooting threescore thotts in ten barrels A halbard with a barrel within it shooting fourteen shotts An other halbard shooting seauen shotts A Cannon of iron carryeing two miles and curiously wrought into flowers with the points of chizels The collar of iron of the Paduan Tyrant as they call him here Carara The little iron Crosbow of the same Tyrant with which he is sayd to haue shot needles a spann long and killed many men priuatly who knew not how or by whom they were hurt Then the diuels Organs or a trunck of leather with ten pistol barrels in it of a foot and a half long and so disposed in oder like organ pipes that vpon the opening of the lock of this trunck all these barrels being charged with seuerall bullets should let fly at once and so seattering wide kill all those that should be in the roome This trunck was contriued by a reuengefull man who hauing a minde to be revenged both of his enemy and of his enemyes friends at once sent him this trunck by an vnknowne bearer as a present from a friend while he treated his friends at a dinner The holes through the sides of it made by the bullets shew the diuelish effect of this Trunck and how well it deserues the name of the Diuels organ The boxe of botargos here is iust such another inuention A pistol in a pocket booke here is as bad as the others which being charged and let off would presently read your doome Swords and daggers with pistol and little gun barrels runing along their blades which being held drawne with the broad side to a man appeare to be onely plain swords and daggers and yet they discharg thrusts not to be parried by any fenceing gard I saw also here a fine Tabernacle of Cristal a burneing Lamp found in Antenors tombe in Padua a burning glasse which burneth half a mile off a rare Adam and Eue with the Serpent and the Tree all cut out of one peece of wood by the rare hand of Alberto Dureo and in fine the picture of King Iames of England the onely picture of any forrain Prince that I saw there Hauing thus seen this Cabinet of Mars we went out of the Pallace into the Piazza of S. Mark vpon which both the foresayd Church of S. Mark and the Dogès Pallace looke This is one of the noblest Piazzas that a man can see
prodigious greatness and length and yet of such a rare timber that one filipping vpon one end of them you heare it easily at the other end by applying your care to it Some of these masts are worth fourscore pounds In other vast roomes I saw store of Cannons of all sizes both for ships and Gallyes where also I saw some Turkish Cannons with words vpon them in the Turkish Language There I saw also one Cannon shooting three shotts at once another fiue one great Cannon found buryed in Candy-full of gold medals the great Cannons cast here while Henry the III. of France dined in this Arsenal They had heretofore a prodigious quantity of Cannons here but now these roomes are much emptyed by reason of this warre with the Turks In other great roomes I saw huge heaps of Cannon bullets of all sizes with some Ensignes wonn ouer the Turks Then mounting vp into the Chambers aboue I saw in two vast roomes armes for fifty Thousand men in another armes for twelue Gallyes in another armes for Fifty Gallyes Here also I saw the sute of armour of Scanderbeg that of the Dogè zani the Lanterne of Don Iohn of Austrias ship in the battle of Lepanto the Lanterne of a Turkish Galley the armour of Baiamante Theopoli and his complices with one arme onely some armes taken from the Turks in the battle of Lepanto other armes taken from the Genuesi a great Crossebow shooting Vast arrowes of iron aboue fiue quarters long an inuention of great vse before Gunne were found out A cannon bullet with four long irons like the tops of halbards which shut vp close into it when you put it into the Cannon but open againe of themselues as soon as the bullet is out of the Cannons mouth and so spreading into four parts cut all they meet with strange fury a dangerous inuention in Sea battles to to spoyle cordage and tackling Here also they shew vs the discription of the towne and Fort of Clissa and how it was taken by the Venetians some 20 yeares agoe Then descending from thence we went to see the places where they make new Gallyes and mend old ones There I found a vast square court three hundred paces broad in euery square and full of vast penthouses capable of holding in them Gallyes of fifty paces long a peéce In the midst of this Court is a vast square Pond of water let in from the Sea where the new Gallyes are tryed and the old ones are let into the Arsenal to be mended and rigged a new Here I saw a world of Gallyes and a world of men workeing about them most busily There were heretofore diuers of these great Courts full of Gallyes but now they are much exhausted the Gallyes being abroad in warre Hence it is obserued that This Arsenal before these warres could arme 200 gallyes and two hundred thousand men Here it was that they made a Gallye and set her out at Sea while Henry the III dyued here in the Arsenal which made that King say then that he would giue three of his best townes in France except his Parlament townes for such an Arsenal Indeed the Arsenals of Paris Genua Zurick Naples and Geneua seemed to me to be little gunnsmiths shops in comparison of this They were then makeing here two new Galleasses when I was last there of vast bulk and expences In fine I saw here the old Bucentoro and presently after the new Bucentoro This last is the Gally of State of the Dogè when he goeth forth vpon the Ascension day accompanyed with the Senate to espouse the Sea as they call it here This is a noble Gallie all guilt without and wainscotted round about the Deck with guilt seats There runns a partition of wood quite along the Deck of the Gallie with seats on both sides and with a low open roof of wood to let in ayre and yet keep off the sun and all this is guilt and painted and capable of fiue hundred Senators who in their scarlat robes wait vpon the Dogè that day The Dogè fitts in the Puppe in a Chair of State with the Popes Nuncio on one hand of him and the Patriarch of Venice on the other and a place for musick behind them The slaues are all vnder hatches and not seen at all but their oares twenty on each side moue all at once like great wings which make the Bucentoro moue most maiesticaly And this is all that I can remember in this Arsenal except the Cellar of Wine and the great roomes as I came out where women onely are employed in mending old sayles and men a part in makeing great cables and indeed those wast Anchors which lye neare the woodden bridge here at the entrance stand in need of cables of the greatest size 10. I happened to be at Venice thrice at the great Sea Triumph or feast of the Ascension which was performed thus About our eight in the morneing the Senators in their scarlat robes meet at the Doges Pallace and there taking him vp they walk with him processionaly vnto the shoare wete the Bucentoro lyes waiting them the Popes Nuncio being vpon his right hand and the Patriarch of Venice on his left hand Then ascending into the Bucentoro by a hansome bridge throwne out to the shoare the Dogè takes his place and the Senators sit round about the Gallie as they can to the number of two or three hundred The Senate being placed the anchor is weighed and the slaues being warned by the Capitains whistle and the sound of trumpets begin to strike all at once with their oares and to make the Bucentoro march as grauely vpon the water as if she also went vpon cioppini Thus they steere for two miles vpon the Laguna while the musick plays and sings Epithalamiums all the way long and makes Neptune iealous to heare Hymen called vpon in his dominions Round about the Bucentoro flock a world of Piottas and Gondolas richly couered ouerhead with somptuous Canopies of silks and rich stuffs and rowed by watermen in rich liueryes as well as the Trumpeters Thus forrain Embassadors diuers noblemen of the country and strangers of condition wait vpon the Dogès gallie all the way long both comeing and going At last the Dogè being arriued at the appointed place throws a Ring into the Sea without any other ceremony then by saying Desponsamus te Mare in signum perpetui dominij we espouse thee ò Sea in testimony of our perpetual dominion ouer thee and so returnes to the Church of S. Nicolas in Lio an Iland hard by where he assists at high Masse with the Senate This done he returns home againe in the same state and inuites those that accompanyed him in his Gally to dinner in his pallace the prepatiues of which dinner we saw before the Dogè was got home This ceremony of marrying the Sea as they call it is ancient and performed yearly in memory of the grant of Pope Alexander
Italy is to ioyne with the stronger of the two Nations France or Spayne And he hath bine often forced to put now and then a French gaâ—rison now and then a Spanish garrison into his strong towne of Casal one of the strongest places I saw in all Italy hauing an excellent Cittadel at one end of it a strong Castle at the other and strong ditches walls and ramparts euery where In fine this Duke can rayse about fifteen thousand foot and two thousand horse Of Mantua were these two excellent Latin Poets old Virgil and moderne Baptista Mantuanus a Carmelit He that desires to know the history of Mantua let him read Mario Aquicola From Mantua we went to Mirandola being inuited thither by its wonderfull name It is a principality farre more ancient then great and it is so called from Three children borne here of a great Lady at one birth The story as it is pretty so it is related by good authors and therefore I will give it you here in the end of this my Italian iourney as a faire well And t is this Constantius the Emperor Sonn of Constantin the great had à daughter called Euridis who beeing growne vp in yeares fell in loue with Manfred a courtier of her Vncle Constantin à hansome well bred yong gentleman Manfred was both courtier enough and wise enough to vnderstand this to be no small honour and therefore embraced her affection with a corresponding flame In a word they meet often talke of it giue mutual promises make all the money they can and iewels and flye away secretly They come into Italy land at Naples from thence to Rauenna and at last pitch vpon this country where now Mirandula stands It was then a place ouerspred with thickets and vnderwoods and furnishing some pasturage for sheep and cottages for shepheards Here then they choose to liue priuately and conuerse with none but country swaines and shepheards Blind loue whither doest thou hurrey Princesses to make them preferre cottages before Courts At last with their money they buy land and Manfred grows Soone to that authority among his neighbours that they choose him for their Head and recurre vnto him vpon all occasions for his aduise and protection In the meane time haueing solemnly marryed Euridis at his arriual in Italy she brings him forth three sonns at once Picus Pius and Papazzo and Manfred growes farre more considerable dayly in these parts At last the Emperor Constantius comeing into Italy vpon his accasions and being complimented by all the seueral provinces thereof this Prouince among the rest chose Manfred as their Embassador to the sayd Emperor to carry to him the tender of their respects and homage Manfred accepted of the employment and carryed himself so gallantly in the Embassy that the Emperor knighted him and vpon further tryal of his worth raysed him to high fauour Manfred seing the realityes of the Emperor thought it now high time to discouer himself vnto him Whereforecasting himself one day at the Emperors feet and begging his pardon he discouered himself vnto him and told him his whole story and aduentures At fitst the Emperor was a little troubled but findeing such freedome and gallantry in his carriage mingled with such humble ingenuity in the Confession of his fault he not onely pardoned what was past but presently sent for Euridis and her children to come to him and liue at court with him This done he makes Manfred Count and Marquis of a great part of these countryes and gives him leaue to build townes and Castles there and for his armes giues him the black Eagle In fine in memory of the three children borne so wonderfully at one birth he commands that the chief towne thould be called Miranda After the death of Constantius Manfred and his Lady returned with great riches vnto their old dwellind place and there began to build Miranda which in processe of time was called Mirandola This true story if it looke like a Romance you must not wonder seing Romances now a dayes looke like true stories The Prince of Mirandola receiues yearly fourscore thousand crownes The greatest ornament of this country was that famours Ioannes Picus Mirandulanus whose life S. Thomas Moore wrote and hauing written it liued it From Mirandula I struck to Parma and so to Piacenza Lodi and Marigno described all aboue and at last to Milan againe where I had been before and where my giro of Italy ended as now my Iourney and description doth I takeing here a new rise from Milan and crossing through Swisserland by the Lake of Como and ouer mount S. Godart came to Basil Where embarking vpon the Rhene I saw Strasbourg Brisac Spire Philipsbourg Openhem Coblentz Hamerstede Wormes Francfurt Mayence Colen Dusseldorp Skinksconce Rais Wesel Arnehem and diuers such fine Rhenish townes Then haueing Viewed Holand and Flanders I came at last to Calais and so home to my owne Deare Country England by the way of Douer FINIS A TABLE OF THE NAMES OF THE CHIEF TOWNES Contained in this second part A. ADria 361 Albano 306 Amiclae 259 Ancona 350 Assisium 321 Auersa 269 B. Baiae 297 Bergamo 440 Brecia 439 C. Caëta 263 Capua 268 Campania 267 Carigliano River 266 Casal 442 Catholica 352 Ceraualle Cesena 355 Crema 339 Cuma 303 D. Disensano 439 E. Elisian fields 298 F. Faenza 356 Fano 351 Ferrara 357 Foligni 321 Forli 355 Formiae 262 Fossa Noua 259 Firscati 307 Fundi 260 G. Gandulfo 307 Grotta dell Cane 292 Grotta di Posilipo 290 K. Kingdome of Naples 207 Kingdome of Cyprus 373 L. La Laguna 362 Lacus Auernus 302 Lago di garda 439 Loreto 322 M. Macerata 322 Mantua 44â— Marino 259 Minturna 266 Mirandola 443 Mola 262 Mons Massicus 267 Monte Falco 321 Monte Garo 267 Murano 423 N. Naples 269 Narni 318 P. Padua 426 Palma noua 575 Pansilipus M t. 290 Peperno 259 Pesaro 352 Peschiera 438 Puzzolo 296 R. Recanatà 322 Rimini 354 Rome 3 c. Ruigo 361 Rubicon Riv 355 S. Senegallia 351 Spoleto 319 Sulphatara 295 T. Taracina 259 Terni 319 Tiber Riv. 318 Tiuoli 313 Tolentino 321 Tres Tabernae 259 V. Veletri 259 Venice 363 c. Verona 436 Vesuuius M t. 284 Via Appia 261 Via Flaminia 317 Vicenza 435 M. Warcupp M. Raymond The profit of traueling Senec. Senec Strada de Bello Belg. The Traueling with profit The Character of a good Gouernour What to be learnt in France and what not What in Italy and what not What in Germany and whaâ— not What in Holland and what not Plutarch The Fertility of Italy An obiectioÌ„ against Italy Answer Baltazar Bonifacius in hist Ludicra l. 13. c. 1â— Sol homo generant hominem Plutarchus in Graccho â—alzacin 1. volum liter The InhabitaÌ„ts and their wits Poëts Ancient and Moderne in Italy Historians Orators Prodigies of learning Diuines Philosophers Architects Sculptors Painters Ancient and moderne Captains See Verstegan in his