they were forced to raise the Siege and leave their Tents Artillery and Ammunition with 1000 wounded Men in their Camp though the Turks in their Passage had seized Aden by Treachery and strangled the King of that place At Diu is made the Stone Cobra so famous for antedoting the biting or stinging of Serpents it is composed of the Ashes of a burnt Root mingled with a kind of an Earth they get under the Rocks and making these into a Paste they form the Stone of it then they prick the Wound and letting a little Blood out they apply the Stone leaving it till it falls off of it self it has the same effect on Wounds made by Poyson'd Weapons and after that put into Womans or Cows Milk it leaves the Poyson it has sucked in and if it be not so used it will burst There are two other Towns of Note in this Province viz. Nariad and Mamadebad where they make store of Stuffs the latter furnishing this and adjacent Provinces with Cotton Thread The income of this Province to the Mogul's Treasury is accounted Twenty millions and five hundred thousand French Livres yearly Travelling on I entred the Province of Agra which I reckoned the largest in the Mogul's Territories Agra which gives it the Name is the Capital Town in it It is distant from Surat 210 Leagues and is seated on the River Gemna in 28 Degrees and an half North Latitude The River has its source in the Mountains to the North of Dehly and increasing by the way it is here considerable and passing through large Countries empties it self into the great River Ganges at the Town of Halbas Mogul Ecbar made Agra a City it being before but a Borough and establishing the Seat of his Empire there called it Ecbar Abad or the Habitation of Ecbar joyning several Villages by other Buildings to enlarge it He fortified it very well with a Castle and Walls of great heighth and strength and had his Pallace in the Castle containing 3 Courts with Porches adorned with Gilding and Painting nay some pieces plated with Massy Gold There are many stately Sepulchers Baths Pillars and other things of great Antiquity And here Aureng Zebe Imprisoned Cha-Gehan his Father when he mounted to the Throne and in that confinement he died who has a little Sepulcher erected to his Memory There are in Agra a great many Christian Families some reckon 5000 but the computation is not agreed on The Dutch hold a Factory in this Town and for the greater encouragement of Travellers the Foursdar an Officer in the nature of a Sheriff is obliged to make restitution to those that are Robbed and this is punctually observed in all or most of the Provinces Here are Elephants Antelopes Leopards and other Beasts that they use in their Games for fighting I saw here Green Pidgeons and the Indians have a cunning way to catch them in the Water for they go into the Rivers Naked and keep their Bodies under Water their Heads only remaining above which is covered with a Cap of Feathers in the Form of a Water-Fowl so without scaring them draw them under Water by the Legs In the Mountains about 5 days Journey from hence they Hunt and take store of Merovers or wild Cows of which Hunting they make great advantage Their Pictures in Agra are pretty well done but mostly in bandy Postures exceeding Active being purposely drawn to stir up lacivious desires and therefore I shall pass them over The Agrians are the best Workmen I ever met withal in working Gold on Agat Christal and other brittle things which few of our Lapidaries or Goldsmiths can do or if they can fall short in equalling them Passing from Agra I came to Fetipour once the Seat of the Empire but now not much considerable except for its lovely Meidan and Mosque the entry of Ecbar's Pallace and some stately Pillars scattered up and down it was slighted as they say because all the Springs about it were brackish and unwholesome I was informed in this Province there are upwards of 3400 Towns and Villages of which next to what I have named these are the Chief viz. Bernzabad Chitopour Bargant Mirda Hindon Ladono Chalaour Byana Canova and Scanderbade most of these produce Manufactures of Stuffs Silks Tapestry c. and the Revenues of this Province mount very near to that of Guzerat Next we entered the Province of Dehly by difficult ways because the Rains had made the Rivers swell in many places It bounds on Agra to the North and Dehly the Principal Town of the Province is about 45 Lergues from Agra and Mogul Cah Gehan and Aureng Zeb made it the Royal Seat of the Empire the way is all along planted with curious Trees in a Line and each half League is marked with a kind of a Turret and there are conveniencies by the way for Travellers to shelter and rest in There is by the way likewise an ancient Heathen Temple visited by the Gentiles who provide necessaries for a great many Apes that are kept there and they pay a kind of a blind Devotion to them as the Creatures of the Pagods Dehly seems to be composed of certain Villages and there is the Ruins of a Town which the Indians say was the Regal Seat of King Porus famed in History for the Wars he maintained against Alexander the Great There is to be seen a Piramid or Obelisk of Stone with an Inscription in very ancient Characters which they say Alexander erected in Memory of his Victory over Porus but the Character not being Greek renders it doubtful This City lies in an open Champion Country washed by the River Gemna it has a Fortress half a League in circumference with a strong Wall and a round Tower every 10 Battlements being secured by a Ditch wharfed with Stone and a Garden round it In this Fortress the Mogul holds his Pallace and keeps the Ensigns of his Royalty and from hence he beholds the fighting of Elephants and other pastimes at Land as also on the River and towards the Town is a large place where the Rajas in the Mogul's Pay Encamp as his Guard The Market is kept in a fine Square where abundance of Juglers and Fellows pretending to Conjuration shew Tricks All the Mogul's Attendance in the Pâ—llace shew him a profound Reverence standing demure before him with their Hands a cross upon their Breasts none daring speak unless Commanded and at Noon every Day he gives Audience to such as have recourse to him for Justice administring it Impartially without respect of Persons There is a stately Hall wherein he gives Audience to his Ministers about affairs of State and those of his Houshold and in this Pallace is a Throne of Massie Gold set with Flowers of Diamonds Emerald Rubies and other precious Stones and a Peacock made out in all its Colours with Gold Silver and precious Stones insomuch that it resembles the Life and is of vast value They say these were begun by Tamarlan
Sacred none but the Bramen has the medling with them and the Woman is counted Infamous among her Cast that refuses to undergo this Cruelty Some are buried with their Husbands up to the Neck then strangled and quite covered and some of the Maids for the love they bear their Mistriss will in like manner accompany her in Death but this is rarely used now for the Mogul and other Mahometan Princes of India have strictly forbid it as Inhuman and Barbarous which secures many Women from the Infamy they would otherwise undergo in their Cast yet though the Governors pretend all that in them lies to restrain it some are still burnt for by earnest Sollicitations and large Presents if the Wife Petition for it which some of them do leave is obtained but it is thought they are incited to it by the crafty perswasions of the knavish Bramen who promises them inestimable Joys and Pleasures in another Life Having somewhat satisfied my Curiosity and as I think given a satisfactory account of the places I visited the Customs of the People c. the Fame of China invited me to take a very tedious Journey to visit that Kingdom and hearing that a Caravan of Merchants every Year passed from Lahors thither I found a convenient opportunity by Land and Water to arrive at that City a little before the Caravan was about to depart which consisted of about 500 Men and 7000 Camels Horses c. CHAP. XVII Travels through divers Countries into China and a satisfactory Account of all that is remarkable in that Kingdom IN our Passage to China for brevity sake I shall not be particular in every thing I saw as not being remarkable in such wild and desart Countries Let it suffice then that setting out we passed over vast Plains Rivers Mountains and Rockey ways in danger of wild Beasts and Robbers there being but few and those inconsiderable Towns till we came to Athec where recruiting with Provisions and refreshing ourselves we Travelled on in much the like ways to Passaur and so by several small Towns till we came to a City called Capherstam the Country it stands in is very Fertil producing good Wine and one thing I observed that they go to their Temples in Mourning Weeds and 25 days Journey from this we came to Gtrideli in 20 days more to Cabul and so to Ciracar and Paroua the last Town in the Mogul's Territories after which we were often forced to pay Tribute to petty Princes that govern'd the Cities and dependancies in our way Then to Aingharan we journied over exceeding high Mountains and leaving that place came to Calcia then to Gialalabath here recruiting we passed to Talhan and Cheman in the Kingdom of Samarhan and by a troublesom way from thence came to Badasciam and Chiarchiumar where we rested for some time and then kept on our Journey to Serpanel and so entered the Country of Sarcil full of Villages and in 6 days passed over Ciecialith a vast Mountain covered with Snow in which Passage some of the company perished with Cold and in a tedious Travel attained Tanghetar in the Kingdom of Cascar and passing Jaconich came to Hiarchan the Royal City where for a good Sum the Master of the Caravan obtained the King's Passport to further our Journey more quietly Then we kept our Journey through Jocil Hancialix Aleghet Hagabateth Egriar Marcetelec Thalec Horma Thoantac Mingrieda Capetalcol Zelan Sarc Guebedal Cambasci Monsersec Ciacolo and Ascu we passed these by a very tedious way over Stones Sands and the Desarts of Carcatha and so to Oitocarach Gazo Casciani Dellai Seregabedal Vngan and Cucia then to Pucian and Turphan a Fortified City thence to Aramuth and so to Camul the last City of the Kingdom of Ciales and from Camul to the North Wall of China through which we had admission at a place called Ciaicum after a 6 Months Journey and so passed to the City of Socive and thus being entered China I shall proceed to speak of it as far as I could learn during my stay there As for the vast Kingdom of China it has gone under many Denominations as the Princes has been pleased to new Name and call it as they severally ascended to the Throne Under the Reign of the first King it was called Tae mim que that is The Kingdom of great Brightness and by several other Names But when the Tartar whose Race are now in the power Conquer'd it they called it Tai Ciroque A Kingdom of great Purity and since it was called Chin to which the Portugueses the first Europeans Trading there adding an A it has since amongst us been called China and so it is generally accepted It is seated in the extremities of Asia towards the East and lies under 20 Degrees from North to South from the Fortress of Cai Pim placed on the Frontiers of the Province of Pekim in the Latitude of 41 to the Meridional point of the Island of Hai nan in 8 Degrees of the Elevation and to the South of the Province of Quamtum so that according to the Chinese account it is from North to South 5750 Li or Furlongs which make 575 French Leagues at 25 to a Degree and from Po point a Sea-Port Town in the Province of Che-Kiam to the extreamity of the Province of Suchven in a streight Line from East to West it is 426 French Leagues though Geographers taking it another way make it much longer viz. from the last place to the North-west of the Province of Leaotum called Caiyven to the last City of the Province of Yunnan called Cin-tien-Kiu-min-Fat and so the length is accounted 750 French Leagues and the breadth taken from Tam Chan the most easterly place of the Country of Leaotum joyning to the Kingdom of Corea to Tum-tim to the Westward of the Province of Xensi it is 500 French Leagues This vast Kingdom or Empire contains 15 Provinces larger than some considerable Kingdoms mostly Rich and Fertile which are ranked according to their Antiquity and Precedency in this Order by the Chineses Pekim Nankim now called Kiam-nan Xensi Xantum Ho-nan Xansi Chekiam Kianosi Huquam Su Chuens Fokien Quamtum Quamsi Yunnan Quei Cheum and Xantum many of these have Towns commodiously on the Sea and others on great Rivers and Lakes the whole Country being plentifully watered by which means it is exceeding Fertil and saves them abundance of Land Carriage The Chineses brag much of the Original of their Kingdom and some of their Books place it many thousand Years before the Creation of the World but most agree it has preserved its form of Government during the Reign of 22 Families and from them have descended 236 Kings during the space 4034 Years for so long they allow it to have been a Kingdom yet there is amongst them another more probable account viz. This account reduces the beginning of it to about 400 Years after the General Deluge and if any pretend to dispute it by Writing
Cape of Metapan and Isle of Cerigo the Ancient Porphyrus and Citherea where formerly stood a Magnificent Temple to Venus the ruins of which as I was told are still to be seen near the Sea and meeting with a storm we were constrained to cast Anchor before the Island of Zia which in Ancient times was called Calle Ceos or Cea it is about 50 Miles in Circuit shaped like a Horse-shoe the Soil produces Wine Corn good Pasture and many other useful things the Harbour is stored with Fish the Inhabitants are very civil to Strangers the Women wear their Coats but to their Knees and their Smocks about a Foot below that with a Veil reaching their Breasts which they turn aside as they think fit when they will or will not Compliment any but lying in War's way between the Turks and Venetians they are much oppressed and impoverished otherways the plenty of the Island would inrich them Sailing from hence we made the Isle of Andra This is the Ancient Andros of the Greeks but now Inhabited by People of several Nations as Albanians Armenians Turks Jews c. and these differ in Customs as well as Languages very rude and unhospitable the Chief Towns are Arni and Amolacos The Greeks have several Churches in this Island but the People are very Superstitious and odd in their Devotions strowing Flowers and rowling in them but the Latins who have likewise Churches there are more Civilized and proceed Regular The Island is very Fruitful and here they make abundance of white wicker Baskets used all over the Archipelago Weighing Anchor we got out to Sea and stood to the Starboard passing between this Island and Negropont and having a South-west Wind Sciro and soon after Ispi Cera and some other places appeared In the Evening when we were pretty clear of Islands the Wind turned East South East and we soon made the Land where Troy stood little of whose Ruins remain for we had passed Tenedos in the Night so passing the Mouths we entered the Channel of the Helespont the place where the Turks passed from Asia into Europe to extend their Empire CHAP. II. Of the Helespont Dardanelles Places about them what is observable in Constantinople and its adjacents Containing all that is Curious and Remarkable in these Parts THE Gate or Entrance as it were to Constantinople being by the Helespont and Dardanelles I think it here convenient to say something of this fam'd Streight before I come a Land It lies in 37 Degrees 42 Minutes North Latitude and of Longitude about 55 not extending above 10 or 12 Leagues in length and at the entrance it is a large League and an half broad it divides the Country of Thrace from Troas a Province of Asia that lies to the East To the North lies the Propontis and to the South the Aegean Sea and the Archipelago and in Sailing here one has a prospect of divers fine Towns Villages c. and a curious Country on either Hand The Turks knowing the important advantage of this Streight have Fortified the Passage with two strong Castles one in Europe and the other in Asia the Castle built in Asia called the New Castle is seated on a tongue of Land pointing out into the Sea on a square Platform comprizing 4 large panes of Walls flanked at the four Corners with Towers those next the Sea square with a sort of Redoubt only on one side those toward the Land are round and defend the Walls but neither in thickness nor largeness comparable to the other the Works washed by the Sea have Port-holes level with the surface of the Water and I could number as I Sailed by about 40 Cannon mounted to prevent any Ships from forcing their way into the Harbour and to the South of this Castle stands a very fair Mosque The Castle on the European side which the Turks call Roumeli-inglu-issar is seated near to Cape Greco and in form is irregular within the compass of the Walls are Houses for the Aga and other Officers with a fair Mosque There is a Platform on which many great Guns are planted lying equal with the surface of the Water Near the Castle lies a small Village noted for its Five stately Pilasters that serve to underprop the Aquaducts bringing Water to the Fortress But notwithstand-these Castles whose Guns reach from Shore to Shore the Venetians and other Maritime Nations have insulted the Harbour for the Castles lie not directly opposite least in firing they should batter each other The Castles are appointed to examine Ships that pass and re-pass and the Governors have Orders to sink such Ships as will not comply Beyond these Castles that are of Modern building are two old Castles one on each shore that on the Asian side the Turks call Natoli-jski-jsiar it is of square Building flanked at the corners with Towers and in the midst of it is a large square Tower on which some Culverin is placed and behind this Castle is a large Village of about 3000 Inhabitants Christians Turks and Jews These by us are called the Castles of the Dardanelles That on the European side is of a Regular Fortification and indeed we may esteem this narrow Passage well guarded by these Castles and Constantinople so advantageously Scituated that no great City in the World can boast of more Advantages as will by and by appear Being examined at the Castles and leave obtained to pass we arrived at Gallipoly about 35 Miles from them This Town was anciently built by one Callias Prince of the Athenians and after his Name called Callipolis but now corruptly Gallipoly it is thinly inhabited by Greeks who mostly sell a Liquor called Raki a kind of Brandy and some Oyl The Doors of their Houses are not above two Foot high and so made to prevent the proud Turks Insults who are hereby prevented riding in on Horseback In this Town there is a square Castle with a Tower joyned to it by the Pummel of a Wall to the Seaward there is an Arsenal where the old Galleys are laid up which the Turks affirm to have been taken from the Venetians when they took the Island of Cyprus but in Truth they are a part of their own shatter'd Fleet that escaped from the Battle of Lepanto and were by main strength carried over the Isthmus of Corinth and put into the Archipelago they not being able to bring them about by Sea because the Christians had possessed all the Passes After having been a-shore and pretty well refreshed in this place we weighed Anchor and with a West South West Wind passed the Isle of Marmora At this place the Sea is wide and this is properly the Propontis though now called mostly Mare de Marmora and here though we had a fair Wind the Current setting strong against us we could not make much way however Sailing on we in a little time came in sight of Constantinople which is about 125 Miles from Gallipoly and entering into the Streight of it we had
strong and well fortified it has ten Gates and many curious Buildings in it This and the former are govern'd by Bassa's who have large dependencies There is a Court of Wells with a Canal full of good Fish but the Turks on some superstitious account or other forbid any to take them alledging for excuse that those who Eat them will fall Sick and Die There are in this City People of all curious Trades and were not the oppression of the Turks as it is indeed all over the Ottoman Empire very great Riches would flow here in abundance From this place our Road lay to Mosul by the way of Bi r and Orfa the Ancient Edessa but before we came to Bi r we passed Euphrates in great Boats This is a little Town in Mesopotamia on the side of the River and passing by small Towns and the Ruins of some great ones we came to Orfa The Walls are about two Hours Walk in Circumference and pretty entire but the Town within though it has been Fair and Stately lies now mostly in Ruins We refreshed our selves here and passed on by Codgtasar in the Country of Meredin and Nisibia we saw in our way many Villages some Towns and other things of Note as Job's Tomb Fields of Mellons Cucumbers c. Our way was sometimes over Mountains then into Valleys and now and then in Plains seeing but few except some few wandering People who move from place to place feeding Cattle and carrying their Tents with them and after a weary Journey we came to Mâ—sul and entered it by Bagdad Capisi that looks towards the South where we paid a Paistre to the Janisary that kept the Gate This City Anciently called Aasour stands on the side of the Tigris which runs to the East of it It is encompassed with strong Stone Walls plaistered over and these have little pointed Battlements on the top 2 Fingers thick and 4 or 5 broad There is a Castle in the Water of an Oval Form and pretty strong which keeps the Pass of the River Many of the Houses are fairly built with Freestone and the City is about an Hours walk in compass It has five Gates beside that I mentioned On the other side of the River is the place where once stood the Famous City of Nineveh and some of the Ruins are to be seen and not far distant a Tomb wherein Jonah is said to be Buried In Summer it is extream Hot insomuch that the People keep in Vaults in the heat of the Day and some in Stone Troughs of cold Water Having recruited our Provisions here it being July to prevent the danger of the Semiel or infectious Wind which arises about this time kills many that Travel by Land I and some of the Company passed by Water on a Keleck or a kind of a Float fastned on a great many Leather Baggs filled full of Wind but they would not suffer us to carry any Wine on Board foolishly fancying that it would fink their Boat and in this we did wisely for we afterwards heard of many that passed by Land who were not accustomed to that Wind died being stifled or Poysoned with the infectious Air. In our Passage we saw many Towns and Villages and Men Women and Cattle were swiming their Passage over the River In the Night we heard the Lions Roar on either Hand which made us keep from the Shoar least they should leap into our Kelechs though the Natives would perswade us they were afraid of a Man and that the Arabs usually pursued and killed them with a Staff but we thought fit not to lay too much stress upon this for I had heard in Mosul that many who had stragled from the Caravans had been snaped by them for they rove in great numbers and Fire-Arms are the best defence against them besides we were forced to stand on our Guard for fear of the Thieveish Arabs who often get aboard by swiming and surprise these Kelechs nor did they fail to Alarum us but when we espied them they Dived and got to Shoar and by that means escaped our Shot we made at them But to be Brief at last we came to Bagdad This is a long Town lying on the River The first thing that appears is the Castle to the side of the River on the left Hand and seems to be very well Fortified It is built of curious white Stone though the generality of the Houses in the Town are low and inconsiderable it is very strong on the Land-side and in circuit Large requiring at least two Hours to compass it at a moderate pace on Foot there are lovely Bagnios and fair Bazars in it It was Founded by the Persians but taken from them by the Turks and has a Bassa for their Governor It stands advantageous enough on the Tygris but is thinly Peopled by reason of the Licentiousness of the Soldiers who are scarcely under any Command It is extream Hot in this place in the Summer time as in all others of the same Latitude There are but few Fruit-Trees hereabouts but every where store of Licorice They generally use Oyl of Naphta in their Lamps it being plentiful in their Borders They often send their Expresses from place to place by Carrier Pidgeons fastning the Note about their Necks which they exactly perform unless they are killed by the way which rarely happens I found here a Caravan mostly consisting of Persians bound for Hamaden in Persia this opportunity I and others embraced though we found the Retinue did not exceed sixty slenderly Armed and mostly without Tents appearing resolute and hardy and passing Caranluocapi leaving on the left the Persian Tower Adgdadom Coulasu we came near Lockman Hakin and encamped there all Day where the Chakales entertained us with Musick From thence we Marched and Lodged in a Village called Aacube under the pleasant Shade of divers spreading Palm-Trees and so proceeded Eastward to Harounia where are many pleasant Gardens and passing by Adiga and Immanisker and many other Villages we were informed the Arabs lay in wait for us in the narrow Passes which caused us to get 15 Janisaries well Armed but we needed them not meeting with no opposition for we safely arrived at Mendeli the utmost bounds of the Turks on the Frontiers of Persia It is a little Town and Castle among Palm-Trees made with Mud and Clay and here we rested some time CHAP. VII Travels into Persia and a particular Account of the Places and what occured in the way to Ispahan the Metropolis of the Kingdom THE famous Kingdom of Persia so much Renowned in History is the Ancientest Monarchy now known in the World having for the most part had an interrupted Succession of Kings who have Govern'd that vast Region Valliantly in wise Conduct and much Glory It is bounded on the East with the great River Indus on the South with the main Ocean on the North with the Caspian-Sea and on the West with the Tygris and Persian-Gulf and is divided
into 11 Provinces viz. Persis now called Far Susiana Caramania Gedrosso Drangiania Irica Arachossa Parapomisus Seccha Hircania and Ormus all very large and most of them Fertile On the confines of this Kingdom we found Men Armed with Bows and Quivers who stopped us because we were advanced before the Caravan but being certified that we belonged to it they let us pass These are the King's Officers set on the Roads to examine Strangers thereby to prevent Spys and Robbers entring into the Country and are upon most Roads having a pretty good Sallary out of the Treasury for their diligence and they get much Money of Passengers Having passed these Men we Travelled sometimes over Plains then Hills and then into Plains again and through many narrow Passages seeing on either Hand a very fruitful Country and the Persian's Houses many of them being made of Cane and built straglingly here and there we often changed the Point sometimes North or East or South-East as the way led us till we came by a Village of Cures called Nian the Hills about it were covered with Turpentine and wild Chesnut-Trees the Waters bordered with Agnus Castus and Rose-Laurels Here the Weather altered for it was very Cold in comparison of the Hot Countries we had passed before From hence we passed to a Village called Chegiafer it is composed of stragling Houses of rough Stone Earth Cane and Reeds covered with green Branches the former are their Summer-Houses and the latter their Winter-Houses Their Mosques in this place are built of rough Stone and Earth and on the way there are many Kervanserais commodious to Inn at very fine for the most part being beautified with a kind of black Stone some pollished and some rough but passing on through a vast track of Country we came to Hamadan to which place the Caravan was bound Hamadan is a large Town but in many places of it void spaces there being many Gardens and Ploughed Fields within the Walls the Houses are Stately yet built of Brick baked in the Sun It has one fair Street where they sell Stuffs and Cloaths ready made it has many Shops in it and lies near the Bezestein which is little but well compacted and indeed it is a Town of a pretty Trade many Caravans coming thither out of Turkey and other parts to buy and sell Merchandize though the Air and Water are unwholsome and no Wine to be found so that I was very ill there which made me hasten to be gone to a more agreeable Air. It is Commanded by a Cham under the King of Persia who is the same there as a Bassa in Turkey The Armenians have a Church here but keep it in no good Order To this and other Chams the King every Year sends a Rich Vest who go out of the Gate to receive it and return with it on without any other Ceremony then being attended by the chief Men of the place on Horseback and this is usually Cloth of Gold From hence we took Mules with our Lading for five Abasis a piece and one of these will carry 600 weight if need requires it and so taking leave of those of the Caravan that staid to negotiate their Affairs we set forward for Ispahan the Regal City of Persia and Metropolis of the Kingdom in a very strong Troop for though such care has been taken that Robberies are less frequented in Persia than in Turkey yet it is prudence however to be armed against Danger and passing early in the Morning through the King's Gate so called because it looks towards the Royal City We Traveled over Hills and Downs the way often altering from good to bad till we came to the Town of Nischar where we refreshed our selves in a ruinous Kervanserai on the Ground where Carpets were spread and drank Water out of a leathern Jugg called there a Matera From thence we Marched along the River side and came to lodg at another Village called Boulousch Kisar and the next Day encamped under Trees near Haran another Village where we were warned by our Muliters to keep a good Guard in the Night time for they told us Spys had been amongst us that Day to visit our Arms and see how we were provided but whether they liked them not or stood in fear I know not but certain it is we had there no disturbance Early in the Morning we marched again and passed by several pleasant Villages and Gardens and foarding the little River Dizava we came to a Town of that Name lying amongst Gardens in a spacious Plain and here we had a plentiful shower of Rain which was the first except a little mizling in our way since my departure from Aleppo and so by a long Journey taking in our way Sari Debile Mouchasaba Machat Scheber-Gird Angovan Agatch or Farsang Nichova Fagasun Ithua Ghulpaigan Arbane Deba little Villages and Towns of no great Note and passing by divers Kervanserais we came to Ispahan having seen by the way several Antelopes a great Beast between a Deer and a Goat very smift in running and climbing the Mountains CHAP. XIII A Description of Ispahan in what is curious and worthy of Remark in it ISpahan as I told you is the Principality and stands in the Province of Iraca part of the Ancient Parthia Here the Air is Dry Pleasant and more wholsome than in many other parts which is one main Reason the King usually keeps his Court here This City was Anciently called Hecatompolis being Recorded to have had 100 Gates It is beautified with Walls of a great heighth built of a red kind of a Marble and though the Houses are very Stately they are built with Brick baked in the Sun daubed over with a fine Clay mingled with Straw and white cast over with a very fine Plaister which is made of a Stone got out of the Neighbouring Mountains and burned to that whiteness this Plaister is the third part of the Charge of building a House they burn their Tiles indeed in a Kiln but they are not so lasting as ours There is in this City many very stately Mosques curiously adorned also sundry Pallaces Seraglios and Buildings of great Antiquity but many of the most Ancient are Ruinous The Persians take great delight in their Houses keeping them very neat and adorning them with curious Paintings Carpets and Tapestry for in these and their Gardens seem to consist their greatest Pride The Walls of this City will take 5 or 6 Hours at a pretty round pace on Foot to compass them because within them there are spacious Gardens adorned with pleasant Flowers and delicious Fruit-Trees served by Aquaducts that run there in Chanels watering and Fructifying the several quarters and in those Gardens are artificial Mounts bedded with Flowers and pleasant Summer-houses on the top of them shaded with Trees besides many stately Pallaces and the quarter where these are is called the New Town The Suburbs of this City are very large and the Nobles have Pallaces in it
for Shops Merchants Ware-houses or private Families for 20 or 30 Rubbles or little more and when the Houses fall to decay they store them considerably with Fireing and other Necessaries as Perma Weclinda Totam Kentisma Solovetsky Ocona Bombasey and None-nosks are famous for their Salt-pits where great quantities are made and out of which the Czar has a considerable Revenue as 3 Russ on every hundred Weight The Rivers that water this Country besides what I have named are Wichida a long and large River which rises out of the Country of Permia and falleth into the Volga Duna that empties it self into the Baltick Sea by the Town of Riga Onega that falleth into the Bay of Solovetsko ninety Verst from St. Nicholas This River below the Town of Cargo Polia meeteth with Volock that falls into the Finland Sea by the Town of Yama so that from the Port of St. Nicholas into the Finland Sea one may go by Water to Suchana This River floweth into Duyna and so into the North Sea there are abundance of Fish in it and in the open Season it is in a manner covered with Water-fowl Duyna is many hundred Miles long which falleth Northward into the Bay of St. Nicholas a Bay so Named by one Chancelour an English Man who first found a North-East passage to Russia in 1553. and called the Bay St. Nichola's Bay from an Abby Dedicated to that Saint standing near it and upon notice of his arrival was sent for with great Joy by the Czar to Moscow whether he went on Sledges 1500 Miles and was received in great Joy and highly Feasted with great State and Magnificence the Court appearing in all its Splendor overjoyed now in hopes of an open Trade by Sea for before they were obliged to carry their Merchandize through the Hastill Territories of Poland Sweeden and other Countries to ship them for these parts and hereupon Ambassadors were sent to England and a free Trade granted with large Priviledges whereupon a Company now called the Muscovy Company settled Factories at Arch-Angel and other Towns adjacent having Lands allowed them and an Agent or Consul permitted to reside at Moscow though since the Dutch and other Nations have found the way and interloped upon them This Bay lies in 64 Degrees North Latitude yet the Country about it is very pleasant in the open Season and in the River stands an Island called Rose Island where are Roses Damask Red Violets and abundance of pleasant Flowers and Fruits There is a Monastery near it of 700 Monks who live after the Greek manner and have large In-coms for they receive rent for the Lands lying many Miles round them However there is in this Country many desarts and wast places especially to the Northward with rockey Shoars and craggy Mountains but on the latter they breed Goats and a kind of wild Horse Volverins or wild Dogs but the latter mostly in the Woods near the Rocks they find a Fish called Morso a Sea Monster who by the help of his Teeth clambers up to get his prey of Eggs that the Wild-fowl lay in the Pits and hollow places his Teeth are about two foot long and better for use than Ivory of which they make Knives and Sword halfs c. They fancy that in pursuing these on the Ice and the Flakes breaking away some of their People were driven by the Currants and Winds on the coast of America and stocked in a great length of time that large fourth part of the World because there is some resemblance between them but I fancy this opinion Groundless They Hunt likewise the Seals on the Ice and kill them by striking them on their Noses with Clubs and make good Merchandize of their Skins and the Oyl they get from them As for the Nobility of Muscovy they are four-fold The First are called Vâ—â—â—nâ—y Knazey and these are of chief Authority as being the Ancient Nobility that is exempt or priviledged Dukes The second are the Bojazens such as the Czar honoureth besides their Nobility with the Title of Counsellors The third are the Vayavodey or such as have been Generals of Armies or done some great Exploits for their Country The Fourth and lowest degree are such as have the Title of Knazey or Dukes but descend from younger Brothers of the chief Houses all of these have priviledges suitable to their Degrees and make a considerable Figure The Parliament is held at Moscow composed of the Clergy and Nobility summoned by the Czar who sits in his Throne in that Assembly and others according to their Degree Then the Dyack or Secretary reads what is purposed by the Prince to be propounded to them the Patriarch with his Bishops and other Clergy are hereupon required to give their Opinions first in order who generally consent to what is propounded and the Nobles agree with them as thinking such Holy Men cannot Err then is it drawn up and sent to be proclaimed as standing Law in the principle Cities and head Towns of the Empire The Moscovites as to their Religion are Christians of the Greek Church very superstitious in their Worship for they often in their Devotion beat their Fore-heads against the floors of their Churches till they are Swelled and sometimes Bloody they pay a Veneration to Saints and particularly to St. Nicholas whom they stile their Patron they Reverence the Virgin Mary St. Peter and others They have the Cross and Holy Water in high esteem among them and their Bishops go in Procession to hollow the Rivers once a Year at which time the People strive for the Water many leap into it and dip their Infants though the weather be extream cold This Water so Hollowed is likewise given to the Sick with a fancy it will restore them or by cleansing make them fit for an other World They keep four Lents and then they abstain from strongs Liquors and all gross sort of Food as Flesh c. they observe certain Vigils watching in their Churches by Night repeating Arisons and bowing their Fore-heads to the floor a certain number of times Their Marriages are celebrated as ours but with some odd different Ceremonies viz. The Bride stoops down and knocks her Head against the Bridegrooms Shew in token of her Submission and Obedience and the Friends of the Bride bow to him then they break Bread and Eat it among them intimating that by this Marriage the Friends on either side are united as the crumbs of Bread were in the Loaf and that they are to account themselves as one Man and one Family c. The Funerals of their Dead are very solemnly performed they Wash and Apparel the Body very neatly then are their Mourners appointed for some days to Howl over it and often to demand what was the occcasion it died seeing it wanted nothing of Wordly Goods as Meat Drink Riches c. naming the sorts and kinds and then set up a hideous Lamentation much like the wild Irish If it be in the open
we parted with good Wishes Prayers and Tears I sent my Cargo on Board a Merchant's Ship lying over-against Eriffe in the River of Thames on the 30th of April 1684 and travelling over-land went on Board myself when she was fallen to the Downs It will be needless to tell you what Agreement I made with the Master who was my Friend and used me extream well during my Voyage or how I spent my time e'er we quitted the Lands end let it suffice we were driven back by stress of Weather and forced to put in at several places with other Ships in our Company before we had a fair Wind to carry us out to Sea but at length Providence so ordered it that the Wind came about as well as we could wish and we lost no time to embrace so favourable an opportunity but getting out of Harbour where we had lain for Ten days Wind bound in a few hours sailing England disappeared but Night coming on the Sun setting with a dusky Cloud a thwart it and darting its Beams Pale to either Pole the Mariners observed by that and some other Signs they have that a Storm threatned us nor were they deceived in their Conjecture for the Wind arose by degrees and about Midnight it was a full Storm but with some difficulty we weather'd it for about the rising of the Sun the Wind slackned and we kept on our way yet this tossing a little indisposed me so that all that day I kept my Cabin but for the most part after this the Seas and Winds contended as it were to give us a favourable passage to Constantinople whither this Ship was bound upon some particular occasions as well as that of Trade which I do not conceive pertinent to this Relation of my own Travels nor shall I describe as some superfluously do all the Coasts we made in our Sailing Let it suffice then that we touched not till we came to Messina in Sicily though in our passage I saw the Fires of the Mountain Stromboli which in the night time looked dreadful though at a great distance and was informed that the People who live near it conceive a foolish opinion that it is an entrance into Hell because when the Fire makes its Irruptions they hear howlings as of the Damned which is no more than the Winds breaking through the hollow Rockey Caverns in the Mountain wasted by the long continuance of the burning which makes a confused noise that at a distance resembles howling Passing the Fare of Messina we came before the Town and dropt Anchor without the Port where those that would had leave to go a-shore I failed not to do it and whilst the Sailers were employed in taking in some necessaries I took a slight view of the place It lies on that side the Island that looks to Rhegio in Italy from which it is 60 miles distant where the Ancient Town of Zande stood Nature has furnished it with a pleasant and safe Harbour which for its compactness may be thought to have been made by Art The Buildings that adorn the Port are Regular and Uniform so that they give a pleasant prospect at the end of the Mole that shuts in the Port There is a Tower well fortified to secure the entry and about the middle of it is another Tower on the top of it a a great Light to guide Ships in the Night The Streets of the Town are fair and large The Cathedral is very stately and over the Door in large Characters is Written Gran-Mercy a Messine When the French became Masters of the Island it was the first place that Surrendered and Sicily caused and beheld the fatal Tragedy of the Intruders for a design was secretly laid and carried on so that on a set day when the Bell rung to Evening Song which was the Sign the Inhabitants of the Island Massacred all the French Nation without sparing Women or Children which is still called the Fatal Sicilian Vesper Before the Church is a square Piazza with a Theatre in the middle where the Victory over the Turkish Naval Forces is represented in Brass and in the same Metal stands the Statue of Don John of Austria the Spanish Admiral in that Expedition The Country is very Fruitful abounds in Sulphur Mines and much subject to Earthquakes The next Town of note is Syracuse where the famous Archimedes made his Experiments and fired the Roman Navy that besieged it with Burning-Glasses There is a Castle built on the Rocks called Scyla and the Water beating on these Rocks resembles the barking of Dogs As for Charibais it is opposite to the Port of Messina and not dangerous but when two contrary Eddies meet and make a kind of a whirlpool so that sometimes Ships turn round and are sucked in which gave occasion to Fable them two Sea Monsters set there to destroy Passengers though there are Pilots always ready at the general Charge to guide Ships in and out The Viceroy has his Residence here six Months and as many at Palermo Mount Gibello anciently called Aetna much infects this fruitful Island with its firey Irruptions The Sicilians are very hauty Proud and exceeding Jealous of the Spaniards under whose Government they are From hence setting Sail we directed our Course to Maltha and having Coasted Sicily there sprung up an East North East Wind before which we drove a very swift Sailing and soon made the Isle of Maltha in the Port of which we came to an Anchor It lies in the African Sea between Sicily and Tripoly in the Latitude of 38 degrees and in Longitude 34 extending from East to West 29 Miles and is about 12 over all the Earth is exceeding White its Ancient Name was Melita In the Year 1530 the Emperor Charles gave it and the Isle of Gozo to the Knights who were driven out of Rhodes and they have ever since possessed it in spite of all the efforts the Turks have made It seems to be a Rock with very little Earth on it yet it bears Fruit and Corn but they are mostly supplied from Sicily it lying but 20 Leagues distant Here St. Paul on his landing in his passage to Rome shook off the Viper they show his Grott and the Earth is dug there and carried away for many Physical uses The Natives wear Green Spectacles to prevent their Eyes from Dazling by reason of the whiteness of the Earth The Knights of the Order are under a great Master They have many advantageous Ports well defended and are formidable at Sea with their Galleys to the Moors of Barbary and Turks for if they take them they make 'em Slaves The Towns of Maltha are well scituate and defended they have good Magazines and always keep a good Provision of Arms and Naval Stores They are very charitable to Travellers especially the Sick providing for them in their Hospitals while they stay and pay the charges of their Voyage when they depart The Wind being again fair we left Maltha passing the
Maiden Princess who was cured of a Leprosie by the Hot Waters for as a wonder in Nature there runs a Rivulet of Hot Water almost scalding those that step into it at first and there one sees the Tomb of Roland or Orland a very Valiant Man who defended the City against all Assaults his Sword Mace and other warlike Habiliaments hang by it but this Tomb stands on a Hill in a little Chapel where usually a Turkish Hermit Lives From this place I set forward to Smyrna and arrived there by several Stages finding nothing in the way memorable Smyrna is about 8 days Journey of a Caravan from Bursa It is a noted Town of Jonia they say it was first Founded by Tantulus and since called Smyrna by an Amazon of that Name who Conquered it it has been subject to Earthquakes and felt the dire effects of them by being reduced to a heap of Rubbish and after that built by Mark Anthony nearer to the Sea than at first it stood the People boast that Homer was Born there the Turks at present call it Ismyr This City Anciently one of the Seven Churches of Asia to whom St. John was commanded to Write is very well Peopled and Defended by a Castle but it is not strong there is a huge Cistern cut out of a Rock and the Amphitheatre where St. Policarp suffered Martyrdom There is another Castle nearer the Sea and on the Gate the Arms of the Church of Rome supposed to be erected by the Genoese who once were Masters of the City and all the Coast This Castle shuts the Port which is but little so that the Stranger Trading Ships ride at Anchor abroad in the Road which is good and spacious There is another Castle at the Mouth of the Road commanding the Ships that enter and go out for the Custom here is very considerable to the Grand Signior most European Traders having Consuls there The Country about it is Spacious Pleasant and Fruitful Oyl and a pleasant sort of Wine called Smyrna Wine in abundance The Air is Temperate for in the Heat of Summer the Northern Breezes blow and cool all the Region about it After I had tarried here 8 Days I found a Vessel bound for Alexandria in Aegypt I had read much of that anciently Famed Country which enticed me to lay hold on the opportunity of being an Eye-Witness of what had been almost every where spoke of it so embarked with my Baggage and in two Days came to an Anchor in the Port or Road of Chio a very fine Island mostly inhabited by Greeks There grows abundance of Mastick Trees which yield the Owners-great advantage they grow crooked like a Vine and being cut the Gum called Mastick at a certain Season flows from them and is the best that is to be found The Christians both Greeks and Latins have their free Liberty to exercise their Religion so that there are a great many Religious Houses and they enjoy greater Priviledges than any within the Turkish Dominions for here they have Bells in some Monasteries and elsewhere they are not allowed particularly at Niamoni The Villages stand here very thick and the Inhabitants are numerous but the Ship coming to Anchor here only by reason of bad Weather I had time to take but a slight View e'er I Sailed again and passing many other Islands as Samas Nicaria c. in the former of these in the Night I saw a light near the Sea rising and falling as big as a large Candle which the Patron of the Vessel who was a Greek told me always appeared in the Ruins of a Christian Church but as any Man approached it it vanished or removed further from them which made me conclude it was an Ignis fatuis rising from the Unctuous Vapours and kindled by Agitation These Islands are now Poor and of no great Note though Anciently very Famous I shall pass over other that appeared on Star and Larboard and sometimes a Head of us we Sailed near some in great danger by reason of the bad Weather and Rocks that jutted out in the shallowness of the Sea near them the Winds shifting and the Waves running high but after all at Sun rising a gentle Gale blowing from the South we spread our Sails and cleared our Vessel of a dangerous Streight between some Rocks and Islands that we were fallen in with and about Evening shifting to the North West we stood away South and by East so that next Morning we made the Island of Rhodes and about Noon came to an Anchor in a good Harbour to recruit our selves with Provisions for the Storms we met with spoiled most we brought with us the Waves frequently rowling over the wast of our small Vessel during that Violence so that a great deal of Water enter'd her and all Hands were at the Pump Night and Day This noted Island has Lycia to the North a Sea 20 Miles over separating them To the East Cyprus to the West Candie and to the South Aegypt it lies in a temperate Climate and is in Circuit about 100 Miles few Clouds are ever seen over it it is very Fruitful and the Turks strugled long before they could be entire Masters of it which happened in the Reign of Solyman the Magnificent for the City that gave the Name to this Island was then taken at the Expence of 150000 Turks from the great Master and Renowned Knights Hospitallers who Immortallized their Fame in defending it to the last extremity This City has two commodious Harbours did not the great one lie so open to the East and North-East Winds that sometimes drive Ships from their Anchors The Turks have built a strong new Tower in the place of the old one to command the Entrance and Centinels are placed in Turrets to give Notice of the approach of Ships It has a Bastion and Curtain that reaches to the Town so that it makes one side of the Port and there is an Old Castle over-against it Over this Port formerly stood a Huge Collossus of Brass one of the Wonders of the World for it stood stradling 50 Fathom one Foot from another and 70 Cubits high so that Ships under Sail passed under it it represented the Sun and was cast by Chares the Lydian In one Hand it held a Light-House to direct Ships in in dark Nights but it was thrown down by an Earthquake and being broken by the Sarasens when they Conquered Rhodes they sold it to a Jew who loaded 900 Camels with the Metal for Alexandria and now the Tower and Castle I mentioned are built where the Feet of it stood There are many Ancient Monuments remaining in this City as the Statue of St. Paul and divers others of Note The Escutcheons of Christian Princes and the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem The Building is Regular and the Streets pretty Fair. But now the Wind serving I was constrained to end my Observation here and return on Board we set Sail with a North-west
never opened and that the Moors conceal them out of Avarice to take out what is precious and raise the price of such Rarities to a higher Rate Being let down in one of these Vaults I saw many parts of Bodies but little entire they being much broken and mangled by such as had out of Curiosity carried away pieces of them This place is full of Piramids but most of them very small unless one that never was finished which if compleated had been near in bigness to the largest I have mentioned proportionable to the Basis there are in it Ascending and Descending Alleys at the end of which are 3 Rooms but it not being finished as the rest as to what it might have been is but Conjecture some hold that this mighty Work ceased when Alexander the Great seized on Aegypt and the Greeks wrested the Kingdom from the Race of the Ancient Aegyptian Kings On the other side of the Nile opposite to this place are to be seen the Ruins of the Ancient Memphis where the Aegyptian Kings held their Court but Time and the spoiling Hand of War has made it as Troy a heap of Ruins It seems to have been exceeding large and extended along the River till you come over-against Old Caire so that although I spent many Hours in viewing these Ruins I could find nothing of Note but pieces of Pillars and Images the low Foundations of what seem to have been Ancient Temples and little else Remarkable Returning towards Caire I came to Maltherea 3 Miles distant from the City where are a great many curious shading Orange-Trees and a delicious Spring of Water which is said to have been the abiding place of the Blessed Virgin when she fled with our Saviour into Aegypt There are likewise Mirtle and Lemon-Trees that render the place very pleasant This Spring and Joseph's Well in Caire are all the Springs of Water I could see or hear of in Aegypt That Well is of a prodigious Depth cut in a solid Rock 106 Foot deep yet so broad and winding are the Steps that two Oxen may go down to the bottom where in a Hole is a very curious Spring and that Water is held precious near it are some remains of Pharaoh's Pallace and a Room called Joseph's Hall adorned with Gold and Azure and many Pillars also his Steward's House remarkable for 12 Columns of Thebaick Marble Near to this there is a dreadful Prison in which it is held that Patriarch was cast upon the false Accusation of his Mistress this consists of several Dungeons cut of the Rock and if Tradition be true his case in that place could not but be lamentable for it appears very Dismal and Loathsome The common received opinion that it Rains not in Aegypt is groundless the Showers fall seldomer and less violently than in other places so that a great part of the Country is dry and barren Sand the chief Fertility is occasioned by the melting of the Snow from the Mountains and the overflowing the River Nile of which famous River I come now to speak more particularly This River has its source near the Mountains of the Moon or Jews Mountains in Aethiopia where it is very small but gathers many Rivers in long running which makes it swell much it runs through the length of Aegypt having its course from South to North discharging it self into the Mediterranean Sea by two Mouths making a Triangular Isle by the Greeks called Delta because it resembles the Greek Δ these Mouths are Navigable for large Vessels for though it has others they are less and can properly be called no other than Rivulets It is broader than the Seine and for the most part glides smoothly unless where its Cataracts make it rage and foam by its falling from a great heighth when it overflows it appears like a little Sea the Water is naturally thick and muddy but they have a way to Clarifie it by running it through Vessels filled with white Earth and then it is very wholesome Most of the Cities Towns and Villages are Scituate on its Banks or very near it for the conveniency of Water which is precious in that Country for there are so many Villages that you have scarce passed one but you come at another This River abounds not much with Fish and there is but one good sort found at Caire called a Variole but there are a vast number of Crocodiles in it who no doubt devour the Fish this is an Amphibeous Creature living at pleasure in the Water or on Land the Head of it is flat above and below and the Eyes or it indifferently big and very darkish they have a long sharp Snout with long sharp Teeth but no Tongue to be perceived the Body large and all of a bigness the Back covered with high Scales like the Heads of large Nails of a greenish colour so hard that they are Proof against a Halbert their Tailes are very long covered over with Scales but the Belly is white and pretty tender it has four short Legs with five Claws on the foremost Feet and but four on the hinder It grows as long as it Lives and some are about 20 Foot from Head to Tail these great ones many times snap young Children at Land and sometimes put up their Noses and pull People out of their Boats in the River so that many go with Spikes to prevent their putting up their Noses and it is dangerous to swim where their haunts are But that they Weep when they have taken their Prey is for what I could find a Fable To take these Creatures they make a great many Pits by the River side and cover them with rotten Sticks so that passing over the Sticks give way and they fall in then Men let down a Rope with a running Nooze to muzzle their Snouts and so they draw them up and kill them for their Skins which they sell to Strangers at good Rates None but the Moors will Eat of their Flesh There is also in the River a Hyppopotamuses or Sea-Horse and is of a tawney Colour the hinder part like a Bouffler though its Legs are short yet very thick it has the muzzle of an Ox and some are about the bigness of a Camel its Head resembles that of a Horse and is very great but the Eyes are small the Ears little the Neck thick the Tail like an Elephant's in the lower Jaw it has four Teeth half a Foot long two of them are crooked and as big as the Horn of an Ox in circumference This famous River mainly fertilises Aegypt and without it it would be desolate nay if it should fail but one Year to overflow there would be a Famine in the Land which some hold it did for seven Years when the mighty Famine happen'd in Joseph's time restrained by an Almighty Power but seeing that Famine extended to others Land this may be but Conjectural when it Ebbs it leaves a fat nitreous Slime that greatly enriches the Land and
Ghost descended on the Day of Penticost Not far from hence we beheld the Sepulchers of David and Solomon This Mountain was formerly within the compass of the Walls of Jerusalem but Selim the Turkish Sultan rebuilding them it was excluded and the City much streightned We saw many other things hereabouts as the Iron Gate the House of Zebedec and that of the High Priest Annas the place where St. James was beheaded the Houses of St. Thomas and Mark the Prison of St. Peter whence he was delivered by the Angel c. And now returning a little again to Jerusalem I shall give somewhat more of its Description than hitherto I have done This Famous City is seated on a Barren Mountanous Ground for the most part it produces no Food but at a distance the Land is exceeding Fertile The Streets are narrow and crooked the Building but indifferent all the Ancient Magnificence being in a manner laid in Rubbish it has 6 Gates viz. That of Ephraim the Gates of Bethlehem Jaffa Damascus Zion and the Dungate and one that is walled up called the Golden-Gate because our Saviour entered in Triumph at it the Sheep-Gate is not reckoned as being much ruined The Turks keep them all shut at Noon-Prayer because they have a Prophecy that at that time the Christians shall surprize Jerusalem and particularly on a Friday on which Day they are very apprehensive it will happen not far from the Golden-Gate there is a Pillar bearing out of the Wall like a Cannon and on this the Turks have a foolish Opinion that Mahomet shall sit at the Day to see whether Christ Judges the Christians Uprightly and if he does Mahomet will give him his Sister in Marriage with a great Portion and then changing himself into a great Sheep he shall fly up in the Air a vast heighth with the Mahometans entangled in his Wool and there shake himself terribly and such as can hold fast shall go with him into Paradise but such as fall off shall drop into Hell The Walls of this City are fair and strong Again leaving Jerusalem I went with a considerable Company to visit Emans and Jaffa the first of these is but 2 Leagues and an half from Jerusalem by the way stands the Well where our Loâ—â—… appeared to the two Disciples after his Resurrection a little further is the Castle where our Lord was known to them in breaking Bread which is now very ruinous and the Village is of little account there being very few Houses and those inconsiderable which made us keep on by the way of Ramah to Jaffa which is 4 Leagues beyond it This Jaffa was Anciently called Joppa It is built on the Top of a Rock and is altogether Ruinous there remaining no more than some Towers and the Port at the Foot of the Rock and to a crag of this Rock it is Fabled Andromeda was tied when Perseus the Son of Jupiter and Danae delivered her from the Sea Monster Here the Prophet Inah embarked when he fled from the Face of God Here St. Peter raised Tabitha Acts 9. and saw the Sheet let down from Heaven Acts 10. There are Grots by the Sea-side for Pilgrims to rest in there is also a little Castle with two Towers one round the other square and a great Tower separated from it on one side but no Houses by the Sea The Port has but little Water in it and none but small Barks can come up with the Fortresses Mount Carmell being but a little distance from hence by Water I agreed with others to take small Vessels to visit it but we met with a Storm by the way that much endangered us but at length we arrived safely there and lodged in the Village of Cayplias which by the Ruins appears to have been formerly a considerable Town it is at the Foot of the Mountain and the next Morning we ascended the Mountain where we found a Convent of bare-footed Fryars called Carmelites these observe a very strict Rule neither eating Flesh nor drinking Wine totally Sequestring themselves from the World nor will they suffer others to do it in their Convent This is the place where the Prophet Elias lived and there is in this Mount as they say a Garden of Stone Mellons which happened on this wise the Prophet asking the Man to give him some of that he was gathering he to put him off told him they were Stones when immediately they proved so indeed by turning into Stone they shewed us one of these but would not shew us the place where they grew least we should covet to carry them away however they feasted us with Fruits boiled Roots and gave us Water to Drink for though the Hill is Rockey ye by their industry they have raised many Fruit-Trees and have variety of good Flowers Then we saw the Well Elias made to spring out of the Ground and another little Well by it we saw a little distant from these the Grot or Cave of Elias and Elisha it is cut very smooth in the Rock above and below near 20 Paces in length and 15 in breadth and very high The Turks have built a little Mosque by it This Mountain and the Country about it is commanded by an Emir or Prince who pays the Grand Signior a Tribute of Twelve Horses I forgot to tell you of Mount Libanus so famed for its tall Cedars but such wast has been made of them that I could number great and small but 23. There is a Church and Monastery in it there is a Patriarch belonging to it that lives at a Village beneath called Cannobin Thus much for the Holy Land whose Fame has over-spread the World CHAP. IX Travels through Syria and divers other Countries towards the Kingdom of Persia with many remarkable Things occuring in so long and hazardous a Journey by Land and Water HAving heard many Famous Things reported of Persia too many here to enumerate and being recruited with Bills of Exchange and other Advantages for Travelling it being a curiosity I was enclined too from my tender Years I found an opportunity to go in good Company for Damascus This City is still in good Reputation and has six Gates viz. the East Gate the Sphaies or Seraglio Gate the Shoo Gate the Gate of Paradise the Gate of Peace and St. Thomas's Gate This City is an Hour and a quarters walk round it but the Suburbs are as big again as the Town It has in it many stately Buildings some New others of great Antiquity having been Anciently the Capital City of Syria but being on a Journey I had not much leasure to view it or few other Towns or Cities on the way therefore I shall but lightly touch on them in my Passage From hence we parted for Aleppo which is one of the most considerable Cities of the Ottoman Empire in Asia by reason of the great Trade Merchants drive there it is as large as Damascus and has a fruitful Country lying about it The Walls are
the Abyssins hunt out and cut off divers of them which they sent to the King and received their promised Reward so that the poor Fathers were forced to pack up and be gone however in the place where the Church stood there is a place erected which contains a curious Library stored with Books of divers kinds of Learning in various Languages This Country produces very good Wheat and Barley and is pretty Fruitful in most places where the Desarts are not for there are very great ones in it of 3 or 4 Days Journey which are Wavey like the Sea when the Wind blows strong from the South or South-west insomuch that Men and Cattle are buried under Mountains of loose Sand if they be in the way where the Desarts lie most exposed to those Hurricanes The King in his Progress always lodges in Tents the Houses of their chief Nobles being very mean in respect of those in Europe and the Walls of those of the meaner sort are of Mud and Slime There are almost Men of all Trades in this Country they have no Camels here but store of Mules Horses Asses and Oxen. The People have an ill custom in eating raw Flesh except the King who has it dressed and drinks Wine of the Grape the rest drink a Liquor made of Millet or Sarasin-Wheat and they have a Spirit made of it as strong as Brandy They have Cloths Stuffs and Velvets Imported by the way of the Red Sea and are Habited like the Franks or Europeans The King has a Guard of Harquibusiers As for their Money it is pieces of Cloth cut out going by weight and little pieces of Salt they cut out on the side of the Red Sea The places where they make it is called Arho There is amongst them the Nation of the Gauls who have no Fire-Arms but use in War Sphears and Targets and often make War with the Aethiopians their Riches consisting in Cattle and as this Gentleman informed me there are a great number of different Languages spoken in this Country and discoursing him about the River Nile which has its rise there he told me he had seen the source of it and that the Spring rises in and issues out of a Well in a large Plain shadowed with many Trees and that well or Spring is called Ovembromma It rises in the Province or Little Country of Ago and is a very pleasant Water there from the Spring it runs Northward through a long tract of Land and having passed several Cataracts or falls which are very high places with a terrible roaring it passes on smoothly till it enters Aegypt and is as I have elsewhere said the main support of that Country for should the Aethiopian King turn the Current Aegypt would be little better than a Desart which the Grand Signior as many have guessed fearing is the cause he molests not the Aethiopians with War and the reason of its over-flowing in Aegypt may be supposed to proceed from the great Rains that fall in Aethiopia about that time for when it is Summer in one place it is Winter in another There are but a Mountains any thing near the Spring of Nile and those are called the Jews Mountains because they once inhabited them but growing powerful were driven out for fear they should Rebel and compelled to live in the Plains These Mountains are exceeding high for in that hot Country they have always Snow on their Tops or Spires There is a Generation of Portuguese among the Aethiopians for anciently the Moorish King of Zeila forcing a King of Aethiopia to fly into the Mountains he implored aid of the Portuguese to restore him to his Throne who with their Fire-Arms slew the Moorish King and so terrified his Army that they left the Country and for this their Traders on the Coast were put into Offices and had rich Possessions bestowed on them when setling and Marrying with the Native Women their progeny encreased The King and all his People are a kind of Christians of the Cophlish Religion and believe but one Nature in Jesus Christ at the end of 8 Days they Circumcise their Males and Baptise them 14 Days after their Patriarch depends on him of Alexandria They say Mass as the Cophites do but their Books are in their own Language When their Patriarch dies they send to Alexandria and that Patriarch sends them a fit Person CHAP. XVII The Author's Voyage from Boassra in the Persian Gulf to East-India and Things remarkable in the dangerous Passage particularly Water-Spouts rising from the Sea and remarks on them STaying at Bassora for a fair Passage to East-India in a little time it happen'd as I could wish I found an Armenian Ship there of 28 Guns and most of the Mariners were Banians of India the rest Armenians except the Master and two more who were European Christians the Master an Itallian and the two Mariners Greeks This Ship was English built and very stench but how it came into their Hands they declined to tell me though I afterward understood they had bought it for 16000 Roupies when it was in a bad condition and repairing it they put up Armenian Colours and had 3 Passports to indemfie them from the Europeans that have Factories in India Our Cargo consisted of such things as could not be vended at Bassora as Indico Cloth Dates Chests of Glass Venetian Looking-Glasses and a good quantity of Money to buy Indian Commodities I hired a Cabin and laid in Provision and Water fearing in so hot a Voyage the latter might grow scarce and it was not without precaution for so it happened Setting Sail and getting clear of the Islands we steered South-west and had Water at 5 and 8 Fathom 2 Men being continually heaving the Lead least we should fall on Shallows or Rocks that are under Water near the Shoar It will be endless to tell you the often shifting of the Wind the Calms we had and the Tackings we made therefore let me say with some difficulty we got to the Island of Carek the first place the Ship designed to Traffick at This Island reaches in length from South-east to North-west is very narrow about 3 or 4 leagues in circumference and 50 Leagues from Bossara it is partly Hills and partly Plains yielding Grapes Barley Wheat Dates and good store of fresh Water which is a precious commodity in those Countries There are Wells dug on the top of Rocks 10 or 12 Fathom deep and have Steps to go down and from the bottom of these Wells the Water passes and runs under ground into the Plains Near to the Wells there is a neat Mosque on the Hill and on the Island is 150 indifferent Houses and near it a Pearl Fishery The King of Persia is Lord of it and great numbers of Boats come to Fish for them in May June July and August Here we unladed part of our Goods but sold little by reason a Dutchman had been there before and forestalled us giving out this
bundles of Straw a Foot and an half or two Foot above the surface of the Water smoaking to appearance exceedingly making the same noise as the first A little while after I perceived so many Pipes reaching down from the Clouds upon these Risings and every one of them had a large end joyning to the Cloud widening like the end of a Trumpet and the lower end resembled the Teat or Dug of a Beast stretched perpendicularly down by the force of some weight These Pipes appeared to be of a paleish White which I conjecture was the Water in them for no doubt they were formed before they drew it up and being emptied disappeared for though the Pipes descended small swelled with the Water they grew larger to the thickness of a Man's Arm or more These Spouts are dangerous things for falling on a Ship they entangle the Sails and lift her up then leting her fall again sink her if she be small but if the Ship be too heavy to be lifted they split the Sails and emptying a vast quantity of Water into her with a violent force sink her and thus I believe Ships have been lost Sailing in those and other Seas where Spouts are and so going down in a Minute or two have never been heard of Some that were on Board brought a large black handled Knife to cut the Spouts at a distance which Superstitious Fancy is thus put in practice One of the Ships company kneels down by the Main-Mast and holding in one Hand a Knife with a black handle he Reads the Gospel of St. John and when he comes to these Words viz. The Word was made Flesh and dwells in us he turns to the Spout and cuts the Air a thwart and then they hold the Spout though at a great distance is cut and le ts down all its Water with a great noise But the Master looking on this silly fruitless Fancy as a piece of Conjuration would not let it be put in practice In the Mediterranean they shoot Cross bar shot at them which hitting is more probable of the two to cut however these spent themselves without doing us any harm and at length through infinite Mercy we weathered the Storm which raged furiously all the time and kept on our Course having the main Land of Arabia on our Starboard and on our Larboard that part of Persia called Marsan which bore South-east of us and we made particularly one Hill of Land shaped like a Sugar Loaf and here in November December and January the East Winds commonly Reign and therefore to go from Persia to India in a short time the best Season is March April and the beginning of May for then the Mouson or Trading Wind blows However we held on with the help of the Current which from the end of July to January sets towards Ormus from India and from January till July from Ormus towards India In our Passage another Storm arising we saw 3 new Spouts but they were at too great a distance from us to apprehend much dangar In our way off Bembaceca we overtook 3 Ships bound to Surat as we were but proving slow Sailers the Master would not stay for them but resolved to make the best of his way so contrary to the mind of the Mate we left them to Sail at their leisure CHAP. XVIII The Arrixal at Surat a discription of that Town the manner of the People Travels into the Indian Provinces with Observations of what is Rare and Remarkable in the vast Dominion of the Great Mogul AFter many dangers in Coasting Persia and a great part of Arabia we knew by the Snakes we saw at Sea a kind of spungy Froth floating in great abundance on the Water which pricks and makes the Hands of those that touch it burn that we were not far from the main Land of India we kept Sailing by many small Islands of which those Seas are plenty till we made Daman a Town belonging to the Portugueses who have strengthened it with a considerable Fort It lies in 20 Degrees North Latitude From this Town to Cape Comorin is a range of very high Hills along the Coast yet this Town has no other Harbour but a little Chanel which remains almost dry when the Tide is out Here refreshing our selves we took the advantage of an Easterly Gale and weighing Anchor bore away Northward having no more than five Fathom and an half Water in an Hours Sailing but then coming into deeper Water we Sailed more boldly and came up with the Bar of Surat in 6 Fathom and an half Water Here the Custom-house-Officers came aboard us and narrowly search'd and viewed every thing they had an opportunity to see after that Boats came to fetch off the Passengers and their Goods and we were had to the Custom-house and again searched in a very odd manner The entrance for Vessels of Burthen is very difficult and we were a ground twice before the Tide could carry us in we passed then by the Castle of Surat on our Right Hand and dropped our Anchor before the Custom-House Thus being happily at Land after a two Months troublesome Voyage I and others rested and refreshed our selves The Bar so called by reason of Sands and is 6 French Leagues or more from Surat yet their Ships of great Burthrn must unload before they can come up the River Being impatient to see Surat of which I had heard so much discourse at home I went in a Boat on the River with divers other Passengers but by reason of the Stream being against us we were a considerable time e'er we reached the Town and the Custom-house being open upon the Signal given we came on Shoar without which we might not do it then passing a large Court we entered into a Hall where the Customer waited to have us searched The manner of their searching as I said is odd and very strict they making their search from Head to Foot feeling your Nakedness in every part looking also into your Mouth as if they would tell you your Age by your Teeth and the Waiter demands of every Passenger as his Fee an Abassy which is worth about 18 d. and the Bark has half a Roupe which is about 14 d. a Head for every Passenger If they find one smugling in the least he is fined severely if not Caved All the Baggage is brought into the Custom-house to be searched and when that is done every one is called in his turn to pay and take them away for Money they take two and an half per Cent. for Merchants Goods of Christians four and of the Banians five per Cent. India is a very large Country of which I shall say something before I enter upon particulars It is bounded on the West with the River Indus on the East with China on the North with Tartary on the South with the Ocean and is properly divided into two divisions viz. India intra Gangem and India extra Gangem the first contains nine
Kingdoms viz. Narsinga Malavar Ballasia Cambaia Mandao Bengala Aristan Comora and Dellia The second seven viz. Macine Aracan Couchin-Chian Baram Siam Pegue Malavar The whole Country seems to take its denomination from the vast River Indus which runs 1000 Miles e'er it falls into the Sea and the Empire of the Great Mogul is the Principle many of the others being petty Kings some of them paying him Tribute and his Territories are usually called the Mogulistan The present Great Mogul is held to descend directly from the line of Tamarlan the Tartar whose Successors setled in the Indies and took to themselves the Name of Moguls to distinguish them from those to whom that Prince left Zagalay Persia Coraffau with other Countries to be Govern'd after him and they concluding this Name would contribute to the Glory of the Family because the People would be the more easily perswaded they are of the Race of the great Ginguiscan the first Emperour of the Ancient Moguls It has been successively maintained for many Generations and is a mighty Empire established in India As for Mogul is was anciently the Name of a mighty People Inhabiting a Country at the extreamity of East-Tartary inclining towards the North which others have called Mongul and Mongal some Mogulistan where Ginguiscan was Born and that Emperour reduced it wholly under his Obedience before he proceeded to the Conquest of the rest of Asia and both himself and Subjects were called Moguls The Great Mogul is said to carry 300000 Horse into the Field with him when he makes War beside a considerable Army of Foot yet the most knowing Indians say though he pays so many there is not above half of them in Arms at once The great Men that Command usually for their own advantage it being the most they have to live on double the Muster-Roll He has in his Dominions 20 Provinces or Governments and those that have made them more have mistaken by making two of one The true bounds of his Empire to the West are Macram or Sinde and Candabar On the East it reaches to the River Ganges on the South it is limitted by the Gulf of Bengala the great Sea and Decan on the North by a part of Tartary It extends from East to West above 400 Leagues and from North to South 500 and this vast space some Mountains and Desarts excepted is very much replenished with Cities Towns Castles Boroughs and pleasant Villages and the Country about them very fruitful in Corn Rice Fruits c. In the Province of Guzerat in this Empire is the Town of Surat of which I have spoke something already It lies in 22 Degrees 7 Minutes North Latitude watered by the River Tapty The Walls were formerly of Earth but they are framing now of Brick 2 Fathom and an half thick and of the same heighth being cautioned so to do for its better defence upon its being plundered by Raja Savegi who made himself Master of great Riches though he took not the Castle nor was able to force the Factories of the Europeans who had Fortified them with Cannon and making a stout defence saved their Goods from the spoil This Raja had his Government in the Mountains and did great mischiefs in India though Aurenzeb the Mogul or Emperor did all he could to prevent it In building the new Wall a great many Houses are left out of the Town especially those built of Cane When the Mousson or Monson a Wind that serves for Trade of Shiping blows the Town is full of People so that 't is difficult to get any Lodging and this is in January February March part of April and sometimes all that Month. It is Inhabited by Indians Persians Arabians Armenians Turks European Christians and some few other Nations though the proper Inhabitants are divided into 3 Orders the first of these include the Indian Moors and others of the Mahometan Religion the second are Gentils or Heathens who adore Idols the third are the Parsis who are likewise called Guares or Artechpirest adorers of Fire professing the Religion of the ancient Persians and these retired into India when Caylif Oman reduced Persia under the Power of the Mahometans The Banians are here the richest Merchants some of them being held to be worth 8 Millions of Crowns The Dutch particularly among other Europeans have driven a great Trade here as did the English and these had Houses assigned them for their Factories called Lodges very neatly built The Castle is built on the side of the River Tapty and is a Fort of moderate bigness and of good strength it stands at the South end of the Town and defends the Entry against those that would attack it It is square and flanked at each corner with large Towers The Ditches on 3 sides are filled with the Sea Water and the 4th which is on the West is washed by the River In this Castle the Mogul's Revenues gathered in the Province are kept and never sent to Court without Order On the West side there is a stately Gate to enter at which is in the Bazar or Meiden and this Castle has a particular Governor and the Town has another The Houses of the Rich are but meanly built of Timber Brick Lime and Tiles and most of these being fetched a great way renders building very dear by reason there is no Stone in this Province They make their Laths of Bambous Cane and they chuse by reason of the excessive heat of the Sun which drys and craks so fast to build when it Rains rather than in dry weather As for the Houses of the ordinary sort they are made of Cane and covered with Palm branches The Streets are large and even but not Paved They spare the Oxen here to Till the Land and carry Burthens feeding on Cow-Beef especially for the most part they have good Mutton and abundance of Poultry and eat with their Meats the Oyl of Cnicus Sylvestris or wild Saffron the best in the Indies also that of Sesamum which is common but not so good They have white and red Grapes there but they make an eager and unpleasant Wine because the heat is so excessive they have not deliberation enough to ripen nor is the strong Waters drunk there much better it is made of Jagre a a kind of course black Sugar dissolved in Water with the bruised Bark of the Baboul-Tree and so Distilled They make strong Water likewise of Tary and draw a Brandy from Rice Sugar and Dates which however is but very sorry stuff and kills many of the Europeans who coming a long Voyage too suddenly fasten on those Liquors and drink intemperately They infuse these ingredients likewise in Water and by setting them in the Sun make Vinegar At Surat are sold all sorts of Stuffs and Cotten Cloth that are made in the Indies likewise a great many European Commodities and those of China as Purceline Cabinets and Coffers adorned with Turquois Agats Cornelian Ivory and all sorts of Embellishments here are
Diamonds Rubies Pearls and most sort of precious Stones that are found in the Eastern Country also Amber Musk Myrrh Frankincense Manna Sal Armoniac Lac Indico Quick-silver the Root Raenus for Dying Red and all sorts of Spices and Fruits that are to be found in the Indies and other Countries of Levant and here Merchants buy up Drugs to transport into all parts of the World so that this Town though not large may be said to be the Emporium of the Indies Having pretty well viewed this place and taken such things as I was informed were necessary for such hot Countries as remained for me to Travel in and considering Amedabad was the Chief City of Guzerat I directed my Journey to take a view of it This Province a few Ages since was an entire Kingdom Govern'd by Mudafer a young Prince who by the advice of his Guardian called in Mogul Echbar to make his party good against the great Men who were troublesom to him but the Mogul getting strong footing imprisoned him and his Guardian where they died miserably and seized the Kingdom annexing it as a Province to his Empire and it is the pleasantest of Indostan though not the largest for it is well watered with the Rivers Nardabad and Tapty with some other Rivers of lesser Note so that the Fields look green all the Year by reason of the Corn and Rice that cover them and the various kinds of Trees that continually bear Blossoms and Fruit. Setting out from Surat with some others in company I Travelled Northward and 2 Hours after crossed the Tapty in a Ferry as I did the River Kim near the Town of Beriao and came to Ouclisser and passing the River Nardabad arrived at Baroche distant from Surat and the Sea about 10 French Leagues or 20 Indian Cosses which is a measure amongst them of about half a League This Town lies about 22 Degrees North Latitude it has a large square Fortress standing on a Hill and the Town lies upon the side near the Foot of it looking towards the River Nardabad encompassed with a Stone Wall 2 Fathom high flanked with Towers between 30 and 35 paces distant one from another and is the strongest in the Province The Bazar or Market-place is a large Street at the Foot of the Hill where are made the Cotton Stuffs called Baftas Here are Mosques and Temples of the Heathens with Pagods or Idols in them to whose senseless Shrines they pay devout Adoration Here are plenty of Agats and also a bundance of Peacocks Leaving this place I continued my Journey Northward and came to the little Town of Sourban 7 Leagues from Baroche and crossing the Brook Dader and several little Villages I entered Debea where a barbarous sort of People Inhabit who a few Years since fed on Man's Flesh selling it publickly at their Shambles so that Strangers always go armed here for fear of being robbed and mischiefed by them which made us make but a short stay but passing the Lake or River Maâ— we came to Pesnad about 7 Leagues from Debea and saw in our way 2 great Tanqueze and a number of Monkies who came and crossed us in the Road fearless of our shouts but rather mockingly answered us again crying Pou Pou the Tanquiez are standing Ponds or reservatories for Rain Water paved at the bottom and kept very choicely Leaving this place I Travelled with my Company to Sousentra and so to Mader which place is very Woody and there the Monkies were in greater numbers than before in the Fields Roads and on the Trees and Travelling 5 Leâ—gues from this place I came to Gilbag where I met a great many Collies a People of the cast off Gentiles who wander up and down and have no fixed Habitation their chief business being to pick the Cotton Wooll In Gilbag there is a handsom Garden that belongs to the Mogul and in it are kept a number of Peacocks it is finely Watered and well Planted with Fruit-Trees and from hence it is two Leagues to Amedabad to which I went the next Morning This as I said is the chief City of the Province and is about 86 Cosses or hâ—lf French Leagues from Surat and the Sea It is Govern'd by an Omra or Indian Lord under the Mogul It lies 23 Degrees and some Minutes North Latitude on a lovely Plain and is watered by the River Sabremetty which when the Rains fall much overflows the Plains There are large Gardens enclosed with fine Brick Walls these Gardens have reservatories for Water and each of them a fine Pavillon at the entrance and at the end of most of them there are convenient Lodgings The Houses in the Suburbs are scattering and many ancient Tombs are to be seen about the City into which you enter by a straight large Street the Walls are pretty strong composed of Stone and Brick flanked with great round Towers and Battlements It is about a League and an half in length and has 12 Gates which are strictly watched for fear of a surprize from the Raja of Bandour whose Territories are near but almost in inaccessible Mountains which gives him an opportunity to make inroads thereabouts and safely to retire with much Booty not regarding the Mogul In this City are many curious Arches and large Squares There is a Kervanserai in the Meidan furnished with curious Balcony-Lodgings supported with Pillars and the King has a Pallace in this City of curious Work where the Musicians resort to Play on their Instruments Morning Noon Evening and Midnight for which they have a Sallary allowed them in the Apartments there are several Ornaments of Folages covered Gold there is the Juma Mesgid or Fridays whither on that Day the People all Flock it is very beautiful and is the fairest of all others though there are many more on the outside of each Gate is a fine Steeple with a Balcony where the Muesins or Bedles with their thundering Voices call the People to the Mosque for in this Country they have no Bells and when they repair hither they appear very devout for I saw above 400 Faquirs who held their Arms cross behind their Heads without stirring all the Prayer-time I visited another Mosque which had been a Pagod Temple before Aureng-Zebe caused a Cow to be killed in it which caused the Gentiles to forsake it It has abundance of Figures of naked Women in it sitting after the Oriental fashion as also of Men Beasts and Monsterous Creatures but they are somewhat disfigured by their Noses being cut off which Aureng-Zebe caused to be done out of a pretended Zeal which raised him to the Throne over the Heads of his Father and two elder Brothers In this City is the place where the famed Magician was Buried whom many of the Indians hold for a great Saint and visit his Tomb with great Devotion It is a square pile of Building having on each side several little Domessetting off a great one the middle The entry into it is by 7 Ports
Weather it is put into a Grave in a few days but in the hard Weather when the Ground cannot be dug they pile the Bodies up in a House they call God's House and when the Season is practicable every one fetches away his Dead and buries it The Muscovites are generally very Corpulent and of a large size strong and of late grown Dexterous in the feats of Arms particularly Fire-arms they have abundance of great Ordinance some carrying Bullets two foot Diameter They are curteous to Strangers unless they get in Drink and then they are very Rude and Mischievious and this they often do for the Men and Women are excessive Drinkers so that many have been Murthered by them in their drunken Revels before Dinner they usually drink a Cup of Aquavitae which they say gets them a good Appetite and after Dinner carouse stoutly of Meath and other strong Liquors and then â—o to sleep on Benches The better sort wear exceeding Rich Garments as Scarlet or Velvet lined with Furs down to their Ancles loose like the Greeks and under them Vests or Wastcoats of Cloath of Gold or Silk Imbroidered the Scull of the 12 Caps Imbroidered with Gold Silver or precious Stones according as they are able and over it a Cap or Bordering of Sables Ermin Minever or the like the Women unless Head attire are cloathed almost like the Men with open Sleeves down to their Fingers they wear Girdles Imbroidered or Plated with Gold and Silver but with the poor Mousack or Country Peasant tho' he keeps the Fashion it is as hard as with us his Garments are course Cloath or Sheepskin with the Wool on but every one has a differently suiting to Winter and Summer for in the Latter Season it is very hot more then commonly in England yet it lasts but June July and August They much delight in Musick tho' it be but Indifferent for I heard nothing like that of other nations whilst I remained amongst them as for Learning the lower degrees affect it not addicting themselves to Husbandry and Handicrafts very obedient they are to their Prince never disputing his Commands or Injunctions what ever they be paying their Taxes and Customs tho' somewhat heavy very chearfully If in a Law controversie the Judge cannot decide it he demands if they will kiss the Cross on their Affirmation or denial if the Defendant does it he is acquitted of his Debt or Injury done if both require it then they draw Lots and he that has the better Lot is only allowed it and concluded to be in the right But in Criminal matters they use Tortures and those very severe ones to extort confessions but if the party hold out against them he is acquitted They have one sort of Execution very odd which is by putting Criminals under the Ice to be smothered in the Waters but cannot be done at all times wherefore they have many more as Hanging and the like These are the Principal matters I observed or was Informed of in this Country worthy to be placed in a History of this Nature and now fearing to be Winter locked after my having been in so many warm Regions I bethought me of Removing nearer home because the cold Season was approaching wherein I was very sensible it would be very Incommodious for a Stranger to travel in these parts and therefore I took an opportunity of a Caravan going for Poland part of which Country I passed but had little or no time to take a survey of it only thus much I shall say in General The Borhistenes bounds it from the Muscovite Empire on the East on the West it has the Vistual on the North the Baltick Sea and Sinus Trinitus on the South Hungary and is divided into 10 Provinces viz. Luconia Lithunia Vollina Samogita Pedelia Russia Nigra Podlasia Mosovia and Poland and the Latter giving the Country it s generally accepted Name These Provinces are Branched with several Navigable Rivers as Vistua Raben Bog Mimel its Metropolis is Cracow or Craconia where usually the King has his Residence It is an Elective Kingdom and at present the Regal Lot by free choice of the Nobility and Gentry is fallen on the Vallian and Renowned Duke of Saxony who is crowned King of Poland and has received the Homage of the greater part of the Poles Cracow is Scituate on the Banks of the River Vistua Navigable 400 Miles being as it were Encompassed with distant mountains and fortified with strong Walls the Buildings are very fair This Country produces Tar Rosin Pitch Wax Honey Barly Oats Amber Tallow Hides Minerals and other Commodities and therein by Trading are found the Commodities of divers other Nations we stayed not here but passing some other Province Entred Germany by the Way of Hungary Austria c. This Famed Empire is bounded on the North with Denmark and the Danish Seas on the East with Prussia Poland and Hungary on the South with the Alps on the West with Flanders Holland c. The Cities and Towns of this Empire may be properly divided into 3 parts as first the Hans Towns that enjoy large Previledges and Immunities about 70 in Number 2. Those called Imperial Cities by reason of their great Privileges above the rest in Coining Money bargaining acknowledgement of Subjection unless to the Emperour whom they acknowledge their Protector and pay him Annual Tribute so And 3dly those under the Electoral Princes which are commonly called Principalities the chief Rivers are the Danube and Rhine the first runs about 1500 Miles and receives 58 Navigable Rivers to swell its Stream and at last falls into the Black Sea the second passes thro' Germany and Belgia 800 Miles and falls into the German Ocean This large Country produces Silver Mines Copper Lead Tin Iron Corn Wine Allum Quick Silver Linnen Woollen Linnen-Stuffs Silks store of Cattle and many other Commodities and from hence by Land and Water I reached the Low Countries and briefly I so directed my way that I cam to Amsterdam the chief trading City in the Province of Holland It is seated on the River Tay which on the North side of it flows like a large Sea when on the South the River Amster running through 3 Lakes entereth its Streets and falleth into the River Tay and by the Addition of a new City to the old it is become very Commodious and Strongly fortified and in it are to be found the Commodities of almost all Nations tho' the Country produces nothing very considerable of its own but these things come by Navigation for most of the Inhabitants are Merchants who 's Goods are brought by Vessels to their Doors and Warehouses and the People are generally Frugal Industruous and Rich. CHAP. XXI A Voyage from Amsterdam in Holland to Cales in the Spanish Dominion and Thence to America giving an Account of what happened on the Sea and in some Islands touched at c. BEing at Amsterdam I began seriously to consider of my Travels and whilst I Ruminated
they might be permitted but their thirst after the Mines of Gold and Silver they suppose to be in that Country and not yet discovered is the main incitement that makes them push their Swords so violently that way though they often meet with their Match for these naked People are very Warlike and in their flights after a Discharge of their Vollies of Poison Arrows chamber up and run upon the Rocks like Wild Goats their dwellings are for the most part in the Woods where they make Swamps and fortified places of Timber and other Materials rudely piled and fastned one to another and that which incites the Spaniards so eagarly to possess themselves by Conquests of these Northern parts besides the Treasure they find in them is out of Mistrust or Jealousie least the English from Virginia and other Collonies should be industrious in subduing and steping in before them Thus having briefly run over the chief Mexicon Provinces under the Spanish Dominion I now proceed to take a Survey of some others and in the first place of Quivira seated in the most Western part of America over against Tartary from whence not being much distant many suppose that this new World was first inhâ—bited from thence for the Indians in their Manners Likeness and many Customs among them much accord with the Tartars they make their Cattle their chief Riches feeding them in the Plains Valleys and Mountains the Country affording every where store of Pasture and those that look after the Cattle carry Tents with them for shelter and dress their Food in the Fields as the Tartars This and the Southern parts of America appears to be far better Peopled than that towards Europe so that though it is but a conjecture yet it is a very probable one that the first peopling this Country was from Asia either accidentally by Ship-wrack or driven out of their Country by Famine War or such Calamities they were constrained to seek new Habitations and so after much wandering at Sea found out this Country though the Indians have a tradition which is a received Opinion amongst many of them that their God with Blazing Fires lighted and guided them Day and Night over the Northern Rocks and Mountains covered with Ice and Snow feeding and cherishing them by the way with Pulse and other Food when they had been oppressed by Gyant-like Enemies and driven out of their former Habitations The Inhabitants of these parts take a greater pride in Glass Beads and other Trifles than in Gold and Jewels and are easily imposed on for the Exchange of the Hides of their Cattle they make Coverings for their homely Cottages of their Bones they make Bodkins and Needles of their Hair Thread of their Sinue Cordage of their Blood Drink and of their Flesh Meat of their Horns Paunches and Bladders Vessels Some are of Opinion that there is a Traffick on this Coast from China or Cathagina from whence Vasquez de Corovado made a Progress into some parts of it with his Army of Spaniards which he saw from the Rocks and high Mountains on the Sea Coast Ships at Sea not of common Building seeming to be well laden and bearing in their Prows Pillicans which could not be conjectured to come from any Country but one of the two before named In Quivira there are but two Provinces that are well known to the Europeans and those are Cibola and Nova Albion Cibola Lys on the East where a City gives that Name to the Province the next to it is called Tolontua a pleasant place in a very temperate Air Scituated on a River of that Name the third Town that offers is Tinguez inhabited by Spaniards and in it the Jesuits have a stately College and are appointed to Preach to the Indians in those parts Nova Albion lies on the West side towards Tartary this was discovered in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth by the Renowned Englishman Sir Francis Drake who gave it this Name upon the King of the Countries Surrendering his Crown of Network and Feathers curiously wrought and submitting himself and people to the Queen's Protection It is in some parts inhabited by a few Spaniards but not yielding any considerable store of Riches they have not much coveted to People it though it abounds with Fruit pleasant to the Eye and Tast The People are very Curteous and Affable to Strangers but mostly given to their old Idolatry practising Charms and some affirm they dance with the Devil on certain mid-night Feasts and revels offering him human Sacrifice The Bounds between this Quivira and Mexico is Marvir Miglio or Californio The next belonging to Mexico in the Northern Tract is Jucalan the first that Discovered it by Francisco Hernandez de Cordovo Anno 1517. who asking an Indian the name of that Country and he not understanding the Spanish answer Jucatan which in the Indian Language is What do you say and from thence they named it and so it has ever since been called This Country is at least 900 Miles in Circuit and a kind of a Peninsula It is fixed over against the Island of Cuba and divided into three parts Jucatan properly so called which has in it the Cities of Campeche Valadolid Merida Semancus and one which for its Greatness and Beauty they call Caire the chief the Commodities here are Honey Wax Hides and Sugar Cana Fistula Sarsaparila c. As for Food it produces great store of Indian Maize and is well Watered and Wooded in all parts the Timber is so good that the Spaniards Build Tall-Ships there they have store of Turkeys and other Fowl which with other Commodities they pay as Tribute to the Spaniards for their Possessions who keep them low and poor which makes them apt to fall into Mutinies and Rebellions Another part of this Track is called Guatemala where the Cruelty of the Spaniards has destroyed near a Million of the Natives yet this Country is populous and has many flourishing Indian Towns in it The chief Cities are Guatemala Cassuca and Chiapa it is well Watered with Rivers and has some large Lakes full of Fish and at Seasons covered with wild Fowl it abounds in Fruit Corn and Cattle The third part of Jucatan is Acasamil an Island over against Guatemala which the Spaniards usually at this day call Sla Cruz it lies advantageous for a Harbour and the advantage of Trade The fourth Division of the Northern Track under the Government of the Spaniards is Nicaragua standing South East from the City of Mexico about 450 Leagues yet it agrees with it in the Temperature of the Climate the People are of good Stature active and strong and of Complexion indifferent White Before they were brought under subjection they had standing Laws and many politicks in their Government particularly if one robbed an other he was not put to Death but became his slave till his service had made Satisfaction for the Damage done they had no Law for the Murther of a King as concluding none would be
so wicked as to act such Villany This Country gives a pleasant prospect and abounds in all things necessary for human support here grows the famous Tree so much Written of which if a man touch but one of the Branches with his Finger it presently whither 's There are great Flocks of Parrots as of Crows or Pigeons in England also Turkeys Quailes Rabbits The Spanish Cities here have a Bishop's See and Granada standing on a Lake of fresh Water about 300 miles in compass which continually Ebbs and Flows though it has no intercourse with the Ocean And thus much having thought fit to speak of the Mexicon Provinces and the Dominion of Spain wherein I mostly Travelled I now come to speak in their Order of the Peruanian parts for richness in Gold and other Mettals This principally contains 5 large Countries as I have already hinted This Southern part of India is held to be Richer than the Northern for although it wants the conveniency of Traffick by the Northern Sea which the other has and is therefore obliged to send its Commodities to Pannama and from thence have them Transported over the Streight or Isthmus by the River Chiagree to Portabel upon the North-Sea yet the great store of Gold Silver and other Mettal make richly amends for their pains and Travel and such store is found that a Prohibition or Injunction is laid by the Court of Spain not to open new Mines till the old ones are sufficiently wrought the huge Mountains of Potosi are thought to consist mostly of Gold-oar and here grow all such Fruits as are found in Spain beside many others natural to the Country the Olives are larger than those of Spaia the Oyl sweeter and clearer the Grapes yield Wine stronger than Spanish Wine and here they have more Liberty than in Mexico to make it because it cannot be so well brought from Spain they have store of Wheat and other Grain the Soil all lying under the high Mineral Mountains being very Fruitful the Water that descends fatning the Valleys for there is but little Rain and the Evening and Morning Dews give great refreshment The Vice-Roy has his Residence in the City of Lima a place much subject to Earthquakes and of late has been terribly shaken and almost destroyed by 'em there is held a Court of Chancery and it is an Arch-Bishop's See It is well fortified since the Bucaniers have made so many Depradations and Pyracies on the Coast two Miles from it is a convenient Harbour or Port called Callau where the Ships lie that convey the Treasure to Panama and other Ships that Trade to divers parts and beside Casteella Aura or Golden Casteel Chille is very Rich in Golden Mines which has caused an obstinate War between the Spaniards and Indians that Inhabit it who are very hardy and dextrous at Fire-Arms most part of them being the Sons of Spanish Women by Indians so that a great many of the best Soldiers out of the Neatherlands and Italy have been sent thither under an Experienced Captain who has the Command as a Recompence for his Service in Europe The Spaniards by their Wars have got strong footing and are possessed of 3 principal Cities beside many Towns of Note as the Conception which is a Bishop's See Santjago and Valdivia this latter took its Name from a Governor so called whose thirst of Gold through Covetousness to grow Rich on a sudden in using great Oppression made the Indians of Chille break out into a Bloody War and surprizing him in his House poured melted Gold down his Throat saying Since he had so eargerly coveted it he should have his fill of it and so much of it as should last him all his Life-time and accordingly it did for the scalding Mettal presently killed him but the War ended not with his Death but has at times continued ever since As for Guiana and Brasil the latter belonging to the Crown of Portugal and States of Holland by reason of their remoatness I had not an opportunity to Travel there and since I can speak little of them than what I have from Report viz. that they are Rich and Flourishing Provinces I shall pass them over and return again to Castella Aure in the Southern or Peruanian Track This containeth the North part of Peru and part of the Isthmus that runneth between the North and South-Sea and beside the Gold in it it is plentifully stored with Silver Pearl Spices Medicinal Herbs and Drugs it is divided into 4 Provinces the first is called Castella del oro the second Nova Andaluzia the third Nova Granada the fourth Carthagena Castella del oro is Situate in the very Isthmus and not over peopled by reason of the unhealthful Air occasioned by the noysom Vapours arising from large standing Lakes or Pools the chief places here belonging to the Spaniards are Theomimay or Nombre de Dias on the East the second which lies 6 Leagues from Nombre de Dios is Portabel chiefly Inhabited by Spaniards Mulottos and Blackamoors this latter has a very fair and goodly Haven from whence it seems to derive its Name well fortified at the Entrance with 3 Castles where the Guns reach and Command one another in these places Drake braved the Spaniards and did Exploits worthy the Fame of his Countrey Nombre de Dios so called by Didacus Niquesa who after many crosses at Sea first Landed here Founding this and Portobel is now in a manner forsaken by reason of the little Commodiousness or Security of the Harbour lying open to the insults of Pyrates and more for the unhealthfulness of the Air coming off the Sea and some Lakes near it so that it was once removed by an Order from the Court of Spain in hopes that the Air might become more healthful in placing it some little distance from the Sea but it little availed In this part of the Indies it was that our Valiant tho' Unfortunate Country-Man John Oxenham Arriving with about 60 Companions drew ashore his Ship covered it with Boughs and passing over Land cut down Timber in the Woods of which he made a Pinnace and Navigating the South-Sea took several Spanish Prizes richly Laden with Gold and Silver and safely recovered the main Land but there by the Mutiny of his Company about sharing the Booty all miscarried for they gave the Spaniards time to set upon and cut several of them off among whom he fell Courageously Fighting and so the Riches to the Value of a Million of Duccats which might have plentifully satisfied them all was lost by their division among themselves Nova Andeluza has for its principal City Tocoio by the Spaniards new Named St. Margrets and an other little inferiour to it called St. Espiritu both Rich in Trade and the Country throughout gives a good Prospect of Plenty and Pleasure Nova Granada is Situate on the South-side of Carthagena It contains 6 principal Cities viz. Tungua supposed to be directly under the Aequator Tochamum Popaian a
though their Garments are very Rich yet they overlay them with Gold Silver-Lace or Embroidery of Gold and Silver and these sort of Wenches are allowed or wincked at to be Curtizans or Common Women to satisfie the Spaniniards Venery to which they are insatiably given and they have allways change of Apparel especially for Summer and Winter though the Winter here consists only in terrible Rains and the overflowing of Lakes and Rivers with innundations occasioning many times the Destruction of Houses People and Cattel and continues some Months They are here very Superstitious both Spaniards and Indians for at the invitation of the Priests they make excessive Offerings to the Shrines of Saints as Crowns of Gold Bracelets Precious Stones Vessels of Silver and Gold so that the Monasteries and Churches may well be said to enjoy the Profits and Pleasures of a Golden World for their Revenues or yearly Incomes are more than in any part of Europe nor do these Ecclesiasticks tie themselves to the strictness of the Rules of their Orders but pass away the time in divers Recreations They have pleasant Gardens Fountains Baths Musick and plenty of Provision to Excess so that this exuberiance or super abounding of this Country has corrupted the Manners of the begging Friars and rendred them as stately as petty Princes particularly their Superiors who scarcely give place to any Their Lodgings are stately and the Roofs of their Cloysters and Churches adorned with Mosaick Work and Guildings of Gold some Altars are of Massive Gold others of Silver Pillars of Brazil and Marble of little esteem among them and this Glorious shew of Pomp and Grandure draws the poor Indians to Admire and Adore them though before their Heathen Temples were very Magnificent but not comparable to these They have Tabernacles of Gold and Silver Christial and other precious things to enshrine and carry the Host about in Procession so that I may well say the Riches of the greatest King or Potentate I have yet spoken of may in some degree of Magnificence fall short of what I saw here if I take the Clergy among the Laity In the Market-Place of this City which is very Spacious there are Arched Piazza's and Shops furnished with Costly Wares and before their Shops are all manner of curious Fruits Sold that the Country affords the Arches of the Vice-Roy's Palace with the Walks of the House and the Garden belonging to it takes up almost one side of the Market at the end of it is the principal Prison strongly Built of Stone and next it the Beautiful Street called La Pateria or the Goldsmiths-street where are to be seen the value of many Millions in Plate and Jewels The Street of St. Augustin is very fair where they Trade mostly in Silks Tabuca is the longest and broadest where mostly are Shops vending Iron-ware Brass and Steel made into things fit for use and Service and this is of very stately Building In the Street Del Aquilla the Houses of the Gentry are mostly seated It is called so from an Eagle of Stone placed there upon the Conquest of the City There is a kind of a Park or void place shaded with Trees where the Gallants and Ladies with their Trains and Equipages air themselves in the Evening and here much mischief is done by quarels upon the account of Jealousie in Courtship and hundreds of Swords at a time have been drawn to Revenge or rescue a Revenger and carry him off to Sanctuary where being once Lodged he is out of the power of the Law yet after all the Lake at present much undermines the City for that the Springs permit but of few Cellars in laying in Dead Bodies the Coffins are half covered with Water and many of the stately Buildings sink so that they are forced often to repair their Foundations by laying new ones on the old that seem as it were to be swallowed up in a quick-sand This City has but 3 ways to come into it by Causey the one is from the West and that is a Mile and half long another from the North containing 3 Miles on the East there is no entrance by Land but on the South the Causey is 5 Miles in length and by this last way Cortez entred when he made his Conquest of it About this City as well as in other places are divers kinds of delicate Fruits as the Nuchili of divers Colours a Fruit which eaten stains like Black-Cherries and colours the Urine as red as Blood so that Strangers unacquainted with its quality really fancy they void Blood this put the Spaniards into great frights at their first coming and their Physicians being ignorant of the Operation applied Remedies to stanch Blood till the Indians gave them to understand better the skin of them are thick and full of small prickles which touching the Lips stick in them and make them for a time stick together so that the Voice will faulter but this skin is easily pealed off and then the Fruit appears of a Scarlet Red. There are also Apples Pears Quinces Pomegranets Musk-mellions Chess-Nuts Wall-Nuts Figs Lemons Oranges Citron and abundance of other Fruits known in Europe But one Tree more Admirable than the rest not known amongst us the Metel which they Plant and dress as they do their Vines It hath near 40 kinds of Leaves growing on it which serve for divers uses for when very tender they make Conserves of them when more grown Paper Flax Mantles Shoes Mats Girdles and Cordage on other Leaves grow Prickles so strong that placing them in Frames of Wood they make saws of them from the Root there cometh a Juice like unto Syrrup which by heat is made into Sugar they make of it also Vinegar and a sort of Wine that stupifies the Indians to Drunkenness The Rhin'd roasted heals Sores and Ulcers applying Poltisces to them and from the uppermost Branches distills a Gum which dissolved in Wine Antidotes Poyson And to conclude with this City there is nothing in or about it wanting to make it happy but the Temper of the people who are restless in a Countrey flowing with all Delights Nature or Art can afford them in any degree CHAP. XXIV Travels into divers other parts of the Mexican Province describing the particulars that are Curious and worthy of Note As also in the Peruanian Province as well Islands as Continent and all that is Rare and Remarkably found in America HAving thus Travelled to Mexico and described it as particularly as Prospect and Enquiry could inform me I now undertake briefly to do the like of the Country of Americas as far as it is yet known to the Europeans or Indians I conversed with those parts The chief Division therefore of this great part of the World is two fold viz. the Mexicanian and Peruanian Provinces Mexico gives name to the greater half of America and is called Nova Hispania or New Spain from whence the Kings of Spain Style themselves Hisaniour Reges The Mexican Track
containeth chiefly the Northern Parts comprehending many large Provinces or Countries already known and many not yet well discovered as the parts that lie between it to the Northern or Frozen-Sea viz. Mexico Quivira Nicaragna Jucatan Flerida virgina Norumbega Nova Francia Corteralis Estoliland and some others so that the Compass of this part already known is at least 23000 Miles The Peruanan part contains all the Southern Track tied to the Mexican by the Isthmus or streight of Darien being between 12 and 17 Miles over in some parts from the Northern to the Southern Sea This part contains the Provinces or Kingdoms of Castella Aurea Gunia Peru Brasil Chille in compass about 17000 Miles Mexico as I observed abounds with Gold sanded Rivers producing many devouring Crocadils tho' not so big as those in the Nile in Aegypt which the poorer sort of the Indians take and feed on their Flesh as a great dainty There are several Mountains casting fourth Flames of Fire in it as Pepochampeche Popocatapec and others nay all the Southern parts as far as Leon in Nicaragua produces many of them but the latter I have named is one of the chief it stands 8 Leagues from Chollola it is a steep rockey Mountain Ten Spaniards attended with Indians to carry their Water and Victuals undertook to take a Survey of it and approached so near the top that they heard a terrible noise occasioned by the Erruption of Fire then the ground shaked so terribly that they durst not approach no nearer however they perceived the Vulcan or Cavety whence the Fire Issued half a League in compass out which Air and Fire proceeded rebounding with a terrible Noise Shrill and Whistling so that the whole Hill trembled and the top near this Mouth was covered with Ashes about knee-deep and as they were viewing it such a shower of Fire fell that had they not stept under the craggy over-hanging of a Rock they had there been roasted to Death but in an hour or two it clearing up they hasted down much affrighted but without any harm This Mountain before the coming of Hernando Cartez had for ten Years dissisted sending forth Flames and when it began again according to a prediction among them the Indians looked for some great misery to befall them by change of Government The Ashes blown in the Air are many times scattered 10 Leagues from the foot of the Mountain This chief Province called Mexico is further divided into six Parts viz. Themistian Nova-gallicia Mechoacan and Gaustachan the first is the noblest and greatest containing six Cities of which the principal is the rich City of Mexico the Seats of an Archbishop and Spanish Viceroy the next is la Richla de los Angeles the third Vellazuca the fourth Antiquera the fifth Mexcioca the sixth Ottopan besides these there are a great number of Villages or large unwalled Towns on the Roads and Borders of Rivers and Lakes inhabited by Indians Spaniards and Mestizoes a mixed Generation of Indians and Spaniards Near Mexico is Tacuba a pleasant Town inclosed with Gardens in the way to Chapultepec is Taluco a Town much traded to and in the Woods breed Hogs producing Bacon as good as our Westphalia Travelling Westward the Town of la Piedad presents it self at the end of a Causey whether the People much resort from Mexico to pay Adoration to the Image of the Virgin Mary inriched with Crowns Chains of Gold and precious Stones valued at a Million of Duccats There is a pleasant Town bending to the North called la Soledad or the Solitary Wilderness where the Bare-footed Carmelite Friars have their Residence but if this be a Wilderness few places can be accounted pleasant for it affords Fruits Flowers Shades Fountains and every thing that can delight Mankind And heither resort the Nobles and Gentry to take their Pleasure who bring great Presents to the Friars so that they live Fat and Plentiful on the outward appearance of Sanctity for in their Oratory and Cells made in Rocks they hang Whips of Wyer Girdles with sharp pricking Needles to wear next their Skin shirts of Hair and other mortifying Materials but one of them ingeniously told me they were placed there more for shew than use to move Peoples Charity towards them and brought them a vast income of Money and all sorts of Provisions and indeed though they have out of a design given this place the name of a Wilderness it seemed to me an Earthly Paradise At Tadubaya not much distance from this place is a very rich Cloister of Franciscans with curious Gardens and Orchards belonging to it they have a stately Church there and the Indians have been taught by the Priests to be Choiristers and sing very fine I have spoken somewhat already of the Province of Guastachan which I passed in my Travels from St. John de Vlhua to Mexico It is a very plentiful Country abounding in Sugar farms Pasture Corn Cochinil reaching as far as the Valley of Guaxaca a very rich place but having spoke of the most material Towns in my Passage I shall pass to the third Province called Mechoacan which is about 80 Leagues in circumference This Province is very rich abounding in Mulberry-trees which feed a great number of Silk-worms also in Wax Honey Black Amber divers coloured Feathers of which they make curious Works and the River abound with store of Fish The chief City of this Province is Valodolid a Bishop's See the Towns of Note are Sinsonte which before the Conquest was the Residence of the Indian King of the Province Pascuar and Coliman inhabited by Spaniards and Indians There are also two good Havens called St. Anthony and St. James or Santiago the King of it called Caconzin was a great Friend to Cortez and much assisted him in his Wars against the Mexicons willingly yielding himself a Vassal to the King of Spain though it was ill requited for don Nunio de Guzman first Ruler and President of the Chancery of Mexico after the Conquest picked a Quarrel and made War on this Province took the King Prisoner who was quiet and peaceable not stiring against him and when he had stript him out of 10000 Marks in Plate Gold and other Riches he inhumanly burnt him at a Stake with divers of his Nobles and Gentry who seemed to rejoyce that they were accounted worthy to suffer with their King and in Death bear him Company into the other World Nova Galia or the fourth Province of Mexico is well watered with two large Rivers viz. Piastle and Sansebastian it contains many great Towns of Spaniards and Indians the chief is Xalisco the next Guadalajara the third Coaza the fourth Corupostalla the fifth St. Espirit the sixth Capala now called Nova Mexico a Frontier on the Northern Indians from whence the Spaniards frequently make Inroads and War upon them and much incroach that way to the great Wast and Destruction of those poor People who would live in quiet and do good Offices to the Spaniards if