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A19674 A true relation of all the remarkable places and passages observed in the travels of the right honourable Thomas Lord Hovvard, Earle of Arundell and Surrey, Primer Earle, and Earle Marshall of England, ambassadour extraordinary to his sacred Majesty Ferdinando the second, emperour of Germanie, anno Domini 1636. By Wiliam Crowne Gentleman Crowne, William. 1637 (1637) STC 6097; ESTC S109122 38,521 77

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secunda Astraea apud Iovem Deosque de mortalium sceleribus queritur Iupiter auditis sententiis orbem Marti Vulcanoque puniendum tradit Scena tertia Pax desolata quaerit locum ubi Martis furorem declinet Neptunus in Angliam marina choncha eam vehit Scena quarta Mars globum terrae in varias partes dividit Bellonae furori caeterisque asseclis distribuit Pars secunda Scena prima Ceres Apollo Bacchus deplorant apud Iovem illam quam a Marte patiuntur calamitatem Iupiter ad Neptunum eos destinat Scena secunda Neptunus se Carolo Britanniae Regimaris imperium commisisse nunciat illum adeant pro pace orbi reddenda Scena tertia Mercurius bene sperare Cererem Phoebum jubet Carolum Regem Pacem brevi reducturum per L egatum Howardum Arundelliae Comitem pristinis sedibus se restituendam Pax asserit gratulantur sibi omnes Howardo applaudunt Epilogus Ad Gentilicia Howardicae Familiae Symbola alludens faelicia omnia Legato apprecatur ominatur eum veneratus suo omnium nomine gratias agit Plaudite Peace is in England which having beene a long while exiled and given over as gone is now about to returne into Germany A Masque When the most Illustrious and most Excellent Thomas Howard Earle of Arundell and Surrey Extraordinarie Ambassadour from his Puissant Majestie of Great Britaine to the most August Emperour Ferdinand the Second and to the rest of the Princes of Germany came to visit the Iesuites College presented by the Students at Prague 1636. The Prologue Mercuries servant imployed about making ready of the Theatre fals upon little children who would faine see the Ambassadour of the King of England he tels them that they cannot see him in the Theatre unlesse they will congratulate his comming whom when by reason of their tender age they cannot salute in Latine they doe performe it in their native language in a differing Idiome The first Part. The first Scene Mercury entertaines the Gods and Goddesses with their severall attendants in a proper habit comming to Councell and appoints to every one their places The second Scene Astraea complaines to Iupiter and the rest of the Gods of the crimes of men Iupiter having heard their opinions delivers over the world to be punished by Mars and Vulcan The third Scene Peace now forlorne seeks out for a place where she may secure herselfe from the fury of Mars Neptune carries her over into England in a sea-shell The fourth Scene Mars divides the globe of the earth into divers parts and distributes them to the furie of Bellona and his other agents The second Part. The first Scene Ceres Apollo and Bacchus bewaile before Iupiter the calamitie which they suffer from Mars Iupiter sends them unto Neptune The second Scene Neptune tels them that hee hath committed the Imperiall government of the sea to Charles King of Great Britaine and that they must make suit to him to restore peace unto the world The third Scene Mercury bids Ceres and Apollo to be of good cheere and wils them not to doubt but that King Charles will shortly by his Ambassadour Howard Earle of Arundle reduce Peace Peace affirmeth that shee shall be restored to her former dwellings they doe all gratulate one another and give their acclamations to Howard The Epilogue Alluding to the Armes of the House of the Howards both wish and presage all happinesse to the Ambassadour and having made obeysance to him give him thanks for himselfe and for all the rest Here we stayed seven dayes and departed the thirteenth of Iuly for Regenspurg by waggons over the plaine where the great battell was fought betweene the Emperour and the King of Bohemia not above two English miles from the citie there wee did observe many places in the ground wherein the dead bodies were put and a great company of bones lying by on a heape where were slaine in all on both sides about thirtie thousand from thence thorow a plaine corne countrey to a little towne three Dutch miles from Frague called Beroum where wee lay which towne hath beene burnt by the Duke of Saxon his forces The next morning earely wee went thorow plaine corne-fields and meddowes untill we came to Mauth a poore village where we dined from thence thorow woods and by poore villages burnt to a prettie towne called Pilsen where we lay that night having travelled seven Dutch miles it is seated in a plaine with three little rivers running by it as Misen Glatow and Pilsen taking the name from the towne The next morning thorow a wooddie countrey and corne-fields to Swabe to dinner after dinner to Bishopsteine to bed having this day travelled but foure Dutch miles in which the Count Dorfmastaff hath a little castle pleasantly seated and the river Igree running about part of it the towne was never pillaged as yet Earely the next morning from thence passing thorow a very stony hill and a wood foure English miles in length called Bemer-waldt wherein about the middest there is a Schans in which Count Mansfelt and his Armie lay two moneths at which Schans the upper Palatinate begins Then to Waldminiken a little towne to dinner the first in the upper Palatinate and the Oast of the house did serve Count Mansfelt as Ancient at that time after dinner thorow a wooddie poore countrey to Redtz a little towne where we lay that night having travelled six Dutch miles The seventeenth day being Sunday early we departed passing thorow great woods in danger of the Crabats lying thereabouts and carried out of our way by by chance through an ignorant guide untill we came to Bruke a towne miserably ruinated seated pleasantly in a plaine where there was not above foure poore housholds remaining not long since it was in great prosperitie for when wee were a little past the towne there was a gallowes and scaffold by the way whereon the Burgers of the towne suffered and many hanging still who were Lutherans then to a towne called Nettenow to dinner and from thence after dinner to Regenspurg having travelled seven Dutch miles this day passing first thorow many pleasant places of landskips and over the river Regen which runneth into the Danuby just by the citie passing over on rafters the bridge being beaten downe then with the other former batteries between Vienna and this place are many faire built townes promising much by reason of their severall Piazzo's or Market-places and Fountaines with other such expressions but entring the houses scarse finde men lodging or people of understanding to exchange discourse with The next day after his Excellence came hither the Ambassadour of the Elector of Brandenburg visited him and the day after his Excellence visited him againe here his Excellence stayed but foure dayes because the Emperour was not come and departed for Augusta on Thursday the one and twentieth of Iuly and dined that day at Sall a small towne on the Danuby thence thorow
wee dined after dinner by Kildersdorf to Holebrum a poore village where wee lay all night on the straw having travelled seven Dutch miles and every Dutch mile is foure English where six and twentie houses were burnt that day fortnight wee came by thunder and lightning the next day early from hence passing thorow plaines and corne-fields which were a reaping we came to Kudordorp where Moravia begins in a great plaine where two stones are set in the ground dividing Lower Austria and Moravia then past we thorow Colendorp the first towne in Moravia and by a Crosse standing in a plaine not neere any towne with many graves about it then to Swamb a prettie towne where we dined having past that fore-noone in danger neere a great company of Crabats who were thereabouts who frighted the towne for when his Excellencies Harbenger entred the gates an houre before us they were all shutting up of their shops and running out to defend the towne After dinner thorow most plaines and corne-fields which were a reaping untill wee came at Bodewich a poore village where wee lay on the plancher and travelled that day seven Dutch miles The next day being Sunday and the third of Iuly we stayed there untill dinner and thence thorow part of a wood called Hertz-waldt on a causey two English miles long the wood being three hundred miles in length as we were credibly informed passing thorow we saw severall fires in it many strange things are likewise seene and so by Bernetz a little towne at the end of the wood to Iglo a beautifull built towne seated on a little hill where we lay that night having gone foure Dutch miles and an halfe Earely the next morning from thence passing over a River at the end of the towne which parteth Moravia and Bohemia and then thorow Stickey the first towne in Bohemia so thorow Haybeireitz a village in which an Oast killed at severall times of his guests ninetie men and made meat of them so to Dutchbrade a towne where wee dined and then departed passing thorow a plaine wooddie countrey to Holebrum where we lay that night on the plancher which was a most fearefull night of thunder and lightning having travelled seven Dutch miles The next morning wee departed and went thorow a wooddie countrey againe and thorow a towne called Shasshaw where in the street we passed thorow lieth buried the body of one Iohn Ziska who made war against the Emperour Rodolphus in the defence of his deere friend Iohn Hus who died a Martyr this Iohn Ziska in all his wars was a victor and when hee was blinde desired to bee carried up and downe the wars and at his death commanded that a Drum might be made of his skin which was done and wheresoever that was they subdued likewise then by a silver Mine of the King of Hungaries which was by the way side on a little hill into which wee entred to see their works the oare being two hundred and fiftie fathom deepe and behinde this place is a citie called Kettenburgh which wee left two English miles of our left hand and thence to Colen two English miles off likewise where we dined about part of the towne runs the River Elbe after dinner we past thorow a plaine countrey to Bemishbrade where wee lay on the plancher againe having travelled eight Dutch miles which hath beene a faire built towne and very pleasantly seated but now burnt almost downe by a Carpenter when the Emperour was in it and since been pillaged twice by the Swedish and the Duke of Bavaria his forces The next morning earely being the sixth of Iuly from thence to Prague to dinner being five Dutch miles passing first thorow very pleasant plaines and meddowes vntill we came neere the citie which is encompassed on both sides with rocks and hils all planted with vines having three townes belonging to it Newstadt Oldstadt and the Slostadt at Newstadt wee entred in at a faire gate passing thorow into Oldstadt to his Excellencies lodging which said Stadt is inhabited chiefly by Iewes who have there foure Synagogues and in one I saw there a Rabbi circumcise a child here we were told that all their fruits in the further parts of the countrey were spoyled as corne vineyards and the like by the aforesaid thunder and lightning with hailestones as big as ones fist and also divers cattell were then lost between this and the Slostadt runneth a pleasant river called the Muldow and over it standeth a faire Bridge of stone as long as London Bridge over which his Excellencie passed going to view the Castle being a stately large built Fort seated on a high hill within the Slostadt called Ketschin in which the King of Bohemia lived first wee passed thorow three faire Court-yards having at one of the gates a guard of Souldiers in which Court-yard there is a statue of S. George on horse-backe in brasse and a fountaine then entred we into a spacious hall having many faire shops in it like unto Westminster but that their Courts of Iudicature are in other roomes by it from hence wee went up and passed thorow many faire roomes well hung and pictures in them and one roome furnished with English pictures of our Nobilitie which the King of Bohemia was forced to leave passing thus untill wee came at one roome two stories high which was their Councell-chamber where the Bohemians being sat at Councell and three of the Emperours Couucell with them there rose a mutiny insomuch that they threw them three out on the ground which was fiftie five foot high and shot pistols after them yet none of them killed and two of them still alive and upon that ground they fell on are set set up three gilt crosses then went we downe into a stately lower roome which used to bee their masking roome upholden with severall faire pillars in the middle and statures of brasse placed by them by the wals hang pictures of Indian horses which were there then adjoyning to this is a large dining roome having a table in it of Mozaique worke and musicke within it not to be discerned then at the end of this roome is a little place where choyce armour is and one Piece which I saw shot off a bullet not having any powder in it then into the Schaut kamber where the treasure was and a most noble collection of the Emperour Rodolphus In the first roome was cup-boords placed in the wals on our right hand the first was of corall the second of Purslaine the third of mother of pearle the fourth of curious brasse-plates engraven the fifth and sixth Mathematicall Instruments the seventh Basons Ewers and cups of Amber the eighth cups of Aggets Gold and Chrystall the ninth of rocks the tenth of Mozaique worke in stone the eleventh cups of Ivorie and a great Unicornes horne a yard in length the twelfth of imbossing worke the thirteenth of Brasse pictures the foureteenth of antick
then by Markhawsen on the same side by Walzig a faire castle seated on the other side on a high hill and the towne at the foot a little beyond so by another faire castle called Crayne seated on a high rocke close by the Danuby on the left side the towne at the foot of it both belonging to the Count Megaw then thorow a place in the water called the Struddell where it runneth very swift with a great fall amongst the rockes and dangerous to passe having no more space than the breadth of a boat which if it toucheth breakes into many peeces and over this place on a high rocke is a Crosse set up having past this danger just by on the left side of the River is an old Chappell called S. Nicolas out of which came two men with his picture in a box to receive an accustomed reward due from those which passe by safe from hence by a faire castle called Besinboe seated on the same side on a rocke and by Pekelem on the same side then by Wednick castle seated on a rocke on the left side with a village beneath it so by a castle and monasterie encircled with a wall seated on a verie high rocke called Milke and the towne at the foot of the rocke along by the Danuby on the right side part of it burnt by an accident when the King of Hungary was in it and by Sable castle on a high rocke on the same side with a faire banquetting house which belongeth to the Grave Sturbutz and a little further on the same side is another banquetting-house called the Devils banquetting-house by reason of many apparitions there seene Then to a little poore Dorp called Aspagh on the left side of the Danuby where wee went a shore and lay that night Earely the next morning being the foure and twentieth day we went up the river by a castle called the Spitz seated on the same side so by Stiringsteine a faire towne on a rocke adjoyning to the river on the same side with a ruinated castle over the towne on a hill with rocks on both sides which are the Grave Van Seldingz then by another faire towne seated on the same side called Stine from which there standeth a bridge over the Danuby made of rafts having thirtie seven arches under which wee passed and at the end of it opposite to the towne is a monasterie with many faire houses belonging to it and behinde this is another stately built monasterie called Kitne seated on a hill from this an English mile distance with a delightfull prospect just by are two other faire townes the one Crempz and the other Winsell seated both on the left side of the Danuby in a plaine which three townes are within the compasse of an English mile then by Tolnie a towne on the other side which is the oldest towne in all the Empire against which wee lay a while and dined on ship-boord after dinner wee entred into lower Austria and went by an old castle called Griffopsteine seated on a rocke on the same side in which all Priests that offend are imprisoned and tried Then a Dutch mile further on the left side the Danubius runneth out to a faire Towne called Cornybrough seated an English mile off in a Plaine with faire Monasteries therein then on the other side of the river is Cloysternybrough full of Cloysters and Monasteries so by Nustorffe on the same side from whence we discovered Vienna seated in a Plaine then left the Danu which divides its selfe into sever all branches and meet beyond the Towne and runs thorow Hungary into the blacke Sea and went up in an arme of it to the Citie where wee landed seated on the right side of the Danu which is very well fortified round the wals besides a compleat Regiment of 1500 men alwayes ready in armes part watching at everie gate some about the Emperours palace others about the place where the Iewes keep their shops in the Citie for they are not suffered to lye in the Towne a night but constrained to keepe within a place on the other side of the River opposite to the Citie which they have built and is called the Iewes Burg for if any one be found all night in the Towne he is miserably punished if not put to death there are likewise 7000 Burgers in the citie which are to be in armes at an houres warning The next day being Sunday his Excellence had audience of the Queene of Hungary and the Arch-Duke Leopoldus the Emperours second sonne being the 26. day and nothing wee saw note-worthy at his palace but a spacious Court-yard the next day againe his Excellence went to see the Dukes lodging where we saw onely a few pictures from hence he went to severall houses of the Iesuites the first was a University where was presented to his Excellence a kinde of Comedy by young Schollers in masking attire and one of the house playing on an instrument like a Virginall severall kindes of musicke after that a banquet brought in by the Actors this ended we went to the second house called the Probation-house where none but young men are about fiftie in number there to be tried whether they may bee made capable of holy orders thence to the third house called the Profest-house where none but the ancient Fathers are where as soon as his Excellence entred an oration was made to him by one of the chiefe after viewed the house and Church in which there was an hymne sung by their best singers with very sweet musicke and they have an organ of five thousand pipes From hence wee returned home to our lodging where there came presently after the Prince of Ducardins to visit his Excellence The eight and twentieth day his Excellence went to see a garden of the Emperours about a Dutch mile off called Nigobath upon which place the Turke once intrenched himselfe when hee would have taken Vienna and was then two hundred thousand men strong in the Emperour Rodolphus his time and after they were driven out of the countrey the Emperour built this on their works for a memoriall the garden is almost foure-square encircled with a strong stone wall and at every corner a faire Tower and in the middle two with three partitions in everie one and the tops covered with brasse round within the wall is a walke for two to goe a brest covered with brasse and underset thicke with pillars of stone then returned wee to another very stately large garden of the Empresses neere unto the citie called her Favorita having severall small gardens adjoyning to it and a faire house the next day his Excellence went to see the Queene againe and the two Princes her Sonne and Daughter here we staid a weeke and departed the first of Iuly by waggons for Prague passing first over three long bridges handing over severall branches of the Danubius so by the wals of Cornyburgh the towne aforementioned to Stackay a poore village where
his Excellence And since the Dutchesse of Bavaria is brought to Bed of a Sonne and he Christened by the name of Ferdinandus Maria Franciscus Ignatius Wolfgangus The 30. of October on Sunday their dyned with his Excellence the Count of Styrenburg the Count of Schmurbenburg junior Baron Lambert and Count Piccolomini whose Father is Generall of the Emperors Army which joynes now with the Cardinall Infant against the French And after dinner the Spanish Ambassador Castillado visited his Excellence and the next day his Excellence visited the Spanish Ambassador extraordinary The first of November his Excellence visited the Count of Schlyck in the Fore-noone and had audience of the King in the afternoone The next day his Excellence tooke his leave of Castillado the Spanish Liedger and the Ambassador of Brandenburg And the day after Doctor Vmmius Liedger from the Count of Oldenburg visited his Excellence and Colonell Henderson a Scotch Gentleman dyned both with him and after dinner his Excellence tooke his leave of Count Pappenheym Marshall of the Empire under the Elector of Saxon and Count Bockhaym Master of the Horse to the King of Hungary and the next morning of the Count of Schlyck and the Count of Strolensdorfe Vice-Chancellor of the Empire and in the afternoone of Count Slavato and then returned home and presently came Conde d' Oniato the Spanish Ambassador extraordinary to give his Excellence his last visit he being gone his Excellence went and tooke his leave of the Elector of M●ntz and in the evening of the Elector of Colen The next day the Count of Slavato came to give his Excellence his last visit and after him the Bishop of Vienna And the next morning Marquis Pallavicino and after dinner the Ambassador Castillado and the Count Trausmistorfe and at 5. of the clocke his Excellence took his leave of the Emperor Empresse and the King and Queene of Hungary And the next morning being Tuesday the 8. of November early left Regenspurg returning backe for England the same way to Hemmaw the first night 3. Dutch miles The next day wee travailed five Dutch miles to Nyemarke And the third day to Nuremburg which was five Dutch miles more where the next morning the Lords of the City came and presented their service to his Excellence in a long Dutch complement and after ●ined with him And the next day in the afternoone they came againe with a present of 40. Flaggons of wine and three killors of Fish which was brought in by thirty men all in red Coats guarded on the armes with white and red Caps and then desired his Excellence to goe and view their Stathouse which is a large long building of Stone above an hundred paces in length passing first up 5. ascents of Staires through a long Gallery 90. paces long ruffe cast with severall stories and at the end entered into a square chamber which sometimes is their Councell-chamber so into the second third and fourth roome which is twenty eight paces long and twelve in breadth painted above head and carved very richly and on one of the Walls hang the Pictures of the sixe Caesars First Carolus Magnus Rodolphus Primus Cꝰ Mundus Rodolphus Secundus Mathius Primus and Ferdinandus this Emperor then into the fifth roome which was furnished likewise with severall rare pictures and two Pictures of Albert Durer and his Father done by him which they presented his Excellence with and in all these roomes are Stoves very richly made and upholden some by Lyons of Brasse and others by Griffons From hence we went to view one of their Houses in which amongst the rest of his Pictures was the picture of his Grandfather who had neyther nose nor chin as the picture demonstrateth and then presented his Excellence with a Banquet from hence to another faire house adjacent and very well furnished likewise but before we came into the rooms we went up the curiousest Stayre-case of stone as ever I have seene And from hence to the Castle where the Father of one of the Lords lived who after he had shewed his Excellence all the roomes in the Castle which adjoynes to the wall of the Towne standing on a Hill and a very deepe Well of one hundred and fifty Fathom cut out of a Rocke by which they were constrayned to releeve the Towne in the time of their former warres betweene the Emperor and the King of Sweden he presented his Excellence with another banquet and then returned home The next day which was Sunday they all dined with his Excellence And in the morning being the 14. day wee departed having stayed heere three dayes and tooke a Convoy of 100. Musketiers along with us to Neustadt five Dutch miles The first night travelling part by Torch-light through the Woods and there lay on the straw that night which Towne formerly hath beene inhabited by 250. Burgers or more and not having now five in it The fifteenth day earely thence to Ketzen five miles and there lay on the planchers likewise and the next day to Wirtzburg to dinner which was three Dutch miles staying that night there having no other Towne neere to goe to After dinner the Lords of the Towne sent his Excellence a present of Two and thirty Flaggons of Wine Fish and provision for his Horse The next morning before his Excellence departed he was visited by the Bishop of Wesburg whom wee found in the habit of a Countrey Gentleman setting aside his Order which is an enamelled Crosse hanging on a Blacke ribbon about his necke who made very much of his Excellence and presented him with the Picture of our Ladie done by Albertus Durerus being one of his best peeces and then tooke leave of him who was ready to ride out of Towne to some other place for safety the Swedes being within two dayes march of it and then his Excellence returned to his Lodging and presently went away The seaventeenth day taking a fresh Convoy went to Bishopsheim that night a Towne seated in a bottome and incompassed round with Hills having the River Tauber running about part of it belonging to the Bishop of Mentz travelling this day foure Dutch miles and most part through great Woods Earely next morning thence through K●lsen a Village and divers other poore Villages burnt and pillaged passing through a hilly wooddy Countrey in much danger of the Croats and spying some running up and downe in the Woods being round about us in number 6000. or more dispersing themselves into severall Companies pillaging and robbing of the Countrey travelling this day five miles to Mildebarke but a Dutch mile before wee came thither entered into our old way at Nunkirken the poore burnt Village before mentioned which is now inhabited by some Foure or five poore people The 19. day in the morning from thence another way taking another fresh Convoy leaving our old way and the Maine on our right hand passing along by the side of it through Hybach a