are very near under the same Climate and secondly because the Remarks which I have made upon each in particular being added together will afford matter but for a very small Chapter Xaintes seated upon the Banks of the Charante is beautify'd with many marks of Antiquity The Bridge over the River makes it evident by a Latin Inscription that it was built by Caesar upon which are also to be seen the remains of a Triumphal Arch. The Church of St. Peters which was the one and twentieth of those that Charlemaign caus'd to be built was ruin'd in the last Civil Wars Nor is it less remarkable for the remains of an Amphitheater and several Aqueducts and divers other Monuments of Roman Antiquity It is also a Bishops See and the Seat of a Presidial Court 'T is likewise observ'd that the Water of the River Charante keeps much longer sweet at Sea then the Water of other Rivers There are also several other fair Cities in Xaintoigne as Coignac Tonnay and Brouage famous for the Salt-pits adjoyning to it At the Mouth of the Sea which is call'd the Sea of Bourdeaux stands a Tower built upon a Rock which serves as a Pharos or Land mark to direct Ships that Sail upon that Coast It is call'd the Tower of Cordouan and we are assur'd that it is much higher and more beautiful then the Pharos of Alexandria Blaye built upon the River side is considerable for the Fortifications which hinder the Entrance of any Enemies Ships into the Harbour There is also to be seen the Sepulchre of Charibert King of Paris the Eldest Son of Clotaire the First The County of Xantoigne is very fertile in Corn Wine Pasturage Saffron c. greatly stor'd with Fish and abounding in Roman or Pontic Wormwood and it is a common Proverb among the People of the Country That if France were an Egg Xantoigne would be the Yolk Though the City of Angoulesm be seated upon a Rock at the top of a Mountain yet there is a Cittadel also built for the better Defence of it Which also serves for a Curb upon the City it self should their happen any Sedition Two Leagues from Angoulesm is a Fountain to be seen which issuing out of an Abyss never increases nor diminishes A certain Queen of France being desirous to know whence the Spring of this Fountain should arise order'd a Condemn'd Person to be let down into the Abyss who reported that he could see nothing but Dreadful Rocks and Monstrous Fish that would have devour'd him had he not speedily got out of their way At Montmeron a Silver Mine was discover'd but no-body was ever set to work in it The reason of which I believe to be because Nature has furnish'd it with so small a quantity of that Metal that the Mine will not afford Ore enough to Pay the Workmen The People of Xantoigne are lookt on to be very Witty and more Courageous Those of Angoulesm are no less Warlike and love to live like Gentlemen but the Common People are Clowns and Brutes CHAP. X. Of Limosin and Perigort THE City of Limoges is the Capital of Limosin remarkable for several Monuments of Antiquity and for three Councils held there in the Years 1029. 1031. and 1182. There are also to be seen several Aqueducts built by the Romans Three Churches and a great Number of Monasteries 'T is also the seat of a Presidial Court and an Audit for the King's Finances Nor are Travellers to pass through it without seeing the Artificers for Enamelling wherein they are so perfect in this City that there is not better Workmanship of that sort in any part of the World and going to Vssel you see 'em no less busily employ'd in making of false Diamonds The other most considerable Cities of Limosin are Gueret Tulle Brive Vserche a very Strong Hold Roche Abeille famous for the great Battel there fought in 1569. Chalos noted for the Horse-Fairs there kept Aines Aimotier c. Though Perigort be Stony and Mountainous yet the Inhabitants are well enough contented with their Condition For the vast Number of Chesnuts which grow in this County not only serve 'em for the Nourishment of their Families but to fatten their Hoggs Besides that it is well stor'd with Medicinal Waters and Iron Mines Periguex is the Capital City of this Province so very Ancient that some scruple not to affirm it to have been built by one of the Sons of Noah But others from the Name of Vesuna which the Ancients gave it derive the Name of it from Venus who was formerly worshipt in this City where there are still to be seen the Ruins of a Temple dedicated to that Goddess with several other Antiquities The Fountain of Marlac not far off from Periguex ought to be visited for the Ebbing and Flowing of the Waters that supply it Which contributes not a little to confirm the Opinion of those who say that Periguex is built upon a floating piece of Ground Some Years ago there was a Well in the Great Market-Place stopt up which was thought to be an Abyss in regard that several People being let down could could never find a Bottom only they reported upon their coming up again that they saw a large Plain cover'd with Water It may be some may put the Question whence those People had so much light as to make such a Discovery To which I shall answer according as they told me that it was from other Wells of the City and parts thereabout which let the light into that Subterraneal Sea and by floating Lanthorns which they drove before 'em with Engines Besides there are few Houses in the City but the owners if they dig never so little in their Cellars presently meet with Water which by the weight the taste and other marks seems to be the same with that of the Well which was stopt up because the Harlots were wont to throw their Children into it Two Leagues from the City there is another Fountain the Water of which changes it self into Stones of what form you please But among the most remarkable things there is a Cavern near Miramont which is call'd Cluseau which extends it self five or six Leagues under Ground wherein are to be found Apartments pav'd with Mosaic Work Altars adorn'd with beautiful Pictures Fountains and a River six and twenty foot broad and beyond that as they say there is a vast Plain or Champian Country where no body yet durst be so bold as to plant any Colonies In the Abby of Cadouan at Sarlat is to be seen a Sacred Napkin or rather Winding Sheet wherein they affirm that the Body of Christ was wrapt when he was put into the Sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea Libourne upon the Banks of the Dordogne is a pleasant City to which that River Ebbing and Flowing brings up Vessels of a Considerable bigness But there is one thing very extraordinary nor do I know that there is any other like it in the World which is
that from time to time there runs from the Sea a Whirling Eddy of Water about the quantity of a Tunn which without being driven by the Force of violent Gusts of Wind rowls up the River with such an Impetuous fury as would overturn the biggest Ships if they stood in the way of it but in regard the terrible noise it makes may be heard three Leagues off and for that they know this Whirling Eddy which they call Macanet always keeps along by the Shoar the Vessels remove to the middle of the River and by an Instinct no less worthy of Admiration the Wild Ducks and Swans no sooner hear the noise but they make haste to the Land to secure themselves from the Rowling Waves CHAP. XI Of Querci and Rouergne QVerci cannot chuse but be a very fertile Country as being water'd by the Garonne the Dordogne and the Tarr which are three Navigable Rivers There are said to be Mines both of Gold and Silver in it but the Inhabitants take little or no care to look after 'em no question because they have plenty of Corn Wine Prunes Saffran and Pastorage that will fetch Gold and Silver without the pains of Digging and Delving The Common People are Boarish but the Gentry and Nobility very Civil Cahors is the Capital City of Querci where the Amphitheater the Bridges and the Towers are infallible proofs of the Antiquity of it Pope John XXII a great disturber of the peace of Europe was born at Cahors and founded there a University for the Common Law in 1332. Wherein he shew'd more love to the place of his Nativity then to all the World besides It is also a Bishops See which is said to bring in the greatest Profit of any other in France The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Steven and was Consecrated by St. Martral There are also in it several other Churches and Monasteries and a Colledge of Jesuits ever since the year 1605. 'T is also the Seat of a Presidial Court from whence Judgments are carry'd by appeal to the Parliament of Tholouse Part of the Diocess of Montaubon is seated in Languedoc and therefore the Bishops have a seat in the Diocess of that Province The Hugonots made themselves Masters of it in 1562. and fortify'd it so well that it held out three several Seiges but at length it was snbdu'd in the year 1592. and because it should be no more a refuge for Revolt the Fortifications were laid level with the Ground Moissac is another City of Querci seated as well as Montauban upon the River Tarr It was taken from the Romans by the Goths and from them by K. Clovis After that Gaiger Duke of Aquitain took it and from him it was retaken by K. Pepin in 1212. The English utterly ruin'd it However afterwards it came to be considerable again but it will hardly recover the ill usage it receiv'd from the Hugonots in the Civil Wars A traveller will find little considerable in Rouergne except the Steeple of the Cathedral of Rodez which is lookt upon to be the highest and the best wrought Piece of Architecture in France The City of Rodez is very ancient but has lost the Antient splendour of it as having been ruin'd by the Goths Saracens and Francks c. however it is still a Bishops See and the Seat of a Seneschalship It formerly bore the Title of an Earldom which was united to the Crown by Hen. IV. In the parts adjoining to this City stands the Mountain of Canseu which Burns when it Rains and two Leagues from thence you meet with an Abyss sixty paces wide at the top and two hunder'd deep and by the side of this Abyss is to be seen a hole which has no bottom The Quercinois are lookt upon to be very great dissemblers and the Perigordins to be very quarrelsome especially in their Cups CHAP. XII Of Auvergne AVvergne is one of the principal Provinces of France it bears the Title of an Earldom and is bounded to the East by Forests and Lyonnois by Rouergne and Velai to the South by Querci Perigort and Limosin to the West and by Berry and Bourbonnois to the North. It is divided into the Upper and Lower The Upper drives a great Trade in Cheese Horses Cows Mules c. The Lower abounds in Corn and Wine and Trades in Tapestry Bone-lace Cloth Knives and other Commodities The greatest part of the Auvergnois are laborious crafty full of dissimulation addicted to quarrel and very self-conceited and opinionated of themselves so that if you do not give 'em their way with much compliance a little thing will create a squabble Aurillac is the Capital City of the Upper Auvergne which was formerly adorn'd with several fair Churches for the most part ruin'd in the Civil Wars Among the most remarkable things we have there to be seen the Refectory of the Carmelites is reckon'd to be the chiefest which much surpasses in Neatness Bigness and Painting all the rest of the Convent The Presidial Court of Aurillac is lookt upon to be one of the severest Tribunals in the whole Kingdom In this Division of Auvergne stands the Mountain Cantal remarkable for the height of it and for the Simples which it produces tho it be extreamly cold the other Mountains are also fertile in Pastorages The lower Auvergne commonly called la Limayne is not so wide in the extent of it as the Upper But it is much a more pleasant place to reside in The soil is more fertile and the Inhabitants are more Civil and Sociable Clairmont is the Capital City of it The Cathedral is cover'd with Lead which the Air has purify'd to that degree that people have offer'd a considerable summ for the Covering and to lay on another of Lead of the same thickness but neither would their Money be taken nor their proffer accepted There is in it a Fountain that turns into Stone as it falls upon which account some aver that the Bridge which is there to be seen was the work of this strange operation of nature It is eight fathom wide six in thickness and thirty six long for which reason Charles IX had the curiosity to see it Several Councils have been held at Clairmont among which the most famous was that in the year 1095. at what time by the sollicitations of Vrban the II. The celebrated Croisade was resolv'd upon for the Conquest of the Holy Land Charles the V. assembled the States of the Kingdom in this City 'T is believ'd this City was built out of the Ruins of the Ancient Gergovia so highly applauded by Caesar in his Commentaries and where there was a Tower which could not be burnt when that City was all in Conflagration by reason it was made of Larch or Larinx wood which resists Fire Rion famous for the Antiquity of it is seated upon a Hill which renders the Situation and the Prospect very pleasant The Houses are well built the Streets straight and broad the Churches Magnificent
the Guard of St. Malo's My second Remark relates to a Raven and a Crow that are in the Island whose number never increases When one of these two Dies all that are in the Neighbouring Parts flock thither to take possession of the Vacancy as if it were an Inheritance and in regard they have no Knowledge of Littleton's Tenures or the Canon-Law much less of the Genealogy of their Ancestors so as to leave their Estates to the next Heirs they fall to Bloody Wars one among another many are slain on both sides many are wounded and many betake themselves to Cowardly flight and save themselves upon the Continent and thus at length the strongest carries it and becomes peaceable Possessour of the Island all the rest of his days As to the Surviver I know not whether upon the loss of his Companion he loses his Privileges or whether he measures Beaks and Claws and then Duels it out with the new Comer Brest is the best Seaport-Town which The French have upon the Ocean for which reason it is the Great Maritime Arsenal of the Kingdom and the Rendevouz of the French Fleets The Entrance into the Bay is very dangerous by reason of several Rocks that lye under Water upon high Tides but there are always skilful Pilots ready to carry in great Ships without any hazard The King caus'd this Place to be fortify'd after a wonderful manner and not without Reason it being one of the Principal Keys of the Kingdom and the Rendevouze of all his Men of War CHAP. XVIII Of Anjou and Touraine THE Province of Anjou dignify'd with the Title of a Dukedom has Bretagne to the East Maine to the North Touraine to the West and Poitou to the South It is Thirty Leagues in Length and Twenty Broad Twenty two says de la Croix and being water'd with the Loire the Sarre and several other Rivers no less then Six and Thirty says de la Croix it is extremely fertile and the People are Witty and very Crafty Anger 's the Metropolis call'd by some Authors the Black City by reason that all the Houses are cover'd with black Slate which they dig out of the Quarries adjoyning is the Seat of a Bishop a Presidial Court a Bailliage a Mint and a University for the Law Founded by Charles V. in 1364. others say by Lewis XII in 1398. The Cathedral dedicated to St. Maurice is a lovely Structure and the three Steeples over the Portal are wonderful pieces of Architecture of which that in the middle seems as if it hung in the Air being supported by the Foundations of the other two Among the Antiquities of the Treasury there is to be seen St. Maurice's Sword and one of the Cisterns that contain'd some part of the Water which Christ turn'd into Wine at the Galilean Wedding The Castle is very Ancient and built upon a Rock flank'd with Eighteen large round Towers and defended with a wide deep Moat cut out of the Rock whither many times Prisoners of State are sent for more Security The Huguenots surpriz'd this Castle in the Year 1585. but they were soon after expell'd again by the Anjovins Anger 's is also remarkable for the University there Erected according to the King's Letters Patents bearing Date June 1605. with the same Privileges which the Academy of Paris enjoys except the Comittimus The Number of the Academies is fix'd to Thirty besides the Bishop the King's Lieutenant the first President the King's Proctor in the Presidial Court and some others who have their Places in the Academy by vertue of their Employments The City it self is govern'd by a Mayor and Twenty four Aldermen or Sheriffs La Flesche stands upon the Loire about Ten Leagues from Anger 's to the South There is in it a very fair College of Jesuits Founded in the Year 1605. by Henry IV. containing three Courts and three Piles of Lodging Chambers sufficient to Lodge the King and all his Court The Heart of that great Monarch lyes in the Chappel under the Steps ascending to the Altar as he ordain'd by his Last Will. Saumur is applauded by all Forreigners for the Pleasantness of the Situation where there is also a Strong Castle and well fortify'd Touraine lyes to the North of Anjou about Thirty Leagues in length and as many broad This Country is so fertile that it 's call'd the Garden of France The People are good Natur'd Sincere and Witty If you will gain their Friendship you must have a care of being Melancholy And therefore they are call'd The Laughers of Tours Les Rieurs de Tours They who have seen Tours the Capital City of this Province agree that it is one of the most delightful Mansions in the Kingdom It is the seat of an Archbishop a Presidial Court and a Money-Chamber The Loire over which there is a Bridge of Nineteen Arches causes it to abound with all things There are great Quantities of Silk Stuffs made in this City which are thence transported all over Europe The Church of St. Martins is of a vast length being a Hundred and sixty Foot long with two and fifty Windows twenty Columns nineteen Doors and three very High Towers in the Year 1591. there were found in it two Urns full of the Ashes of several Bodies consum'd by Fire Amboise stands upon the Loire with a Castle Royal built there by Charles VIII to signalize the Place of his Birth Loches is remarkable for the Castle and a beautiful Forrest adjoyning to it Lewis XI enlarg'd this Castle and added a Dungeon to it where he kept the Cardinal de Balve a long time and here it was that Lewis Sforza being confin'd by Lewis XIII dy'd in his Imprisonment and was Buri'd in the Church of Nostre Dame where is to be seen the Tomb of Agnes Surel Charles VIIth's Mistress Chinon is a pleasant City where Charles the Seventh was retir'd when Joane of Arc came to find him out and proffer him her Service And more lately remarkable for being the place where Rablaise was Born CHAP. XIX Of Beausse which Comprehends Orleanois Blesois and Le Pais Chartrain IN regard there have been no just Bounds given to this Province because several Authors out of a humour joyn the Neighbouring Provinces to it I shall not undertake to limit the extent of it but following the Opinion of those who divide it into Upper Middle and Lower which are commonly call'd Le Pais Chartrain Orleanois and Blesois I shall only observe what is most curious in the Principal Cities of the Province By the way you are to observe that this Country is call'd the Granary of France by reason of the great quantity of Corn which it produces As for the People the Chartrains are look'd upon to be Zealous Catholicks The Orleanois somewhat addicted to Slandering and Backbiting The Blesois are said to speak the best French yet both the one and the other are very civil and obliging Chartres is a City so Ancient that some
little Islands which the Seine surrounds in several places and among the rest from two within the Circuit of Paris which are call'd the Island of Nostre Dame and the Island of the Palace This Island is the most Noble Portion of the most Illustrious most Potent and most Flourishing Kingdom in the World This is what the Author stretches out in Praise of his own Country but whether it agree so well with the present Condition of France is left for the Impartial to judge Paris is not only the Capital of this Province but the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom nor is it without good Reason that a certain Author calls it The Queen of the Cities in the World It is so ancient that the Time is not positively known when it began to be built Some say that the Foundations of it were laid before the Death of Noah However it were Authors agree that it is more ancient then Rome as it is much larger in regard that Rome is not above Twenty three Thousand and fifty Paces in Circuit but that Paris is Twenty six Thousand eight Hundred and fifty Paces in Compass the Suburbs being therein comprehended In the Year 1622. the Bishoprick was Erected into an Archbishoprick The present Archbishop is one of the most Learned the most Illustrious and the most Obliging Prelates in the Kingdom Messire Francois de Harlay Duke and Peer of France Commander of the King's Orders formerly Archbishop of Rouen and one whose Merit is Universally known He has a Seat in the Parlament of Paris which is the first in the Kingdom and which is usually call'd the Parlament of Peers But besides this Tribunal there are several others in Paris as the Chamber of Accompts or of the Exchequer which was made Sedentary at Paris at the same time that the Parlament was fix'd The Grand Chastelet where the Provost of Paris sits as a Judge and may be call'd the Sessions House of Paris There is also the Conseil du Roy or the King's Council which consists of such Persons as he pleases to make Choice of to Consult about Publick and Important Business Conseil de Finances compos'd of a Superintendant Intendants Comptrollers Registers c. and the Conseil Privè de Parties which is Assembled about particular Causes and Controversies between Party and Party Besides several other Courts and Chambers which we omit for Brevities sake The University of Paris is the most famous in all France Italy Spain or Germany where all manner of Learning and Sciences are taught It was founded in the Year 791. by Charlemaign at the perswasion of the learned Alcuin who was the first Professor of it And I am apt to believe that to justifie the Opinion of M. Balzac who calls the University of Paris the Latin Country there needs no more then to tell yee that it consists of Fifty five Colleges which are always full of an Infinite Number of Scholars and every Body knows that the Sorbonne is a Nursery of Learned Men and the most rigid College in France I do not here propose to my self to make an exact Description of all the Beauties of Paris for a Volume in Folio would not contain 'em all I shall only take notice of those things that render it most remarkable without entring into a particular Enumeration of all Particulars The chiefest without doubt is this that it is the place where the Monarchs of France have all along kept their Courts and when the Palace of the Louvre which is joyn'd to that of the Tuilleries shall be finish'd with that Order and Magnificence as it is begun 't will be the most Noble Building in the Universe There will not be only Lodging sufficient for all the Court but also for the Ministers of State for all the Officers of the Crown and all Forreign Ambassadors that come to reside in the City The Cathedral Church which is dedicated to the Holy Virgin is a Hundred seventy four Paces in length and Sixty broad and a Hundred Paces high There is to be seen the Old and New Testament engrav'd upon the Stones of the Quire and over the Door of the Quire is to be seen a Crucifix with an Image of our Lady which are two Master-pieces of Workmanship The Frontispiece of the Church is adorn'd with three large Portals over which are One and twenty Figures of the King 's that Reign'd from Childebert to Philip the August Two high square Towers serve it instead of a Steeple which are esteem'd to be the fairest in France So that 't is commonly said If you would have a perfect Cathedral you must joyn the Quire of Bauvaise the Body of Amiens the Portal of Reimes the Steeple of Chartres and the Towers of Paris From the bottom to the top of these Towers you ascend with Three hundred eighty nine Steps and at the top there is a Gallery that leads from one Tower to the other To the Church it self belong Seven Doors and Forty five Chappels But that which is most of all to be wonder'd at is this that this Vast and Magnificent Structure is built upon Piles driven into the Ground by reason it stands at the farther end of the Island of the Palace The Quire the Body of the Church and the Chappels are adorn'd with lovely Pictures and many precious Reliques are preserv'd within those sacred Walls The Holy Chappel of the Palace is a Church which is very remarkable not only for Antiquities and Reliques but for the Workmanship of the Building which is supported by Pillars so small that a Man would wonder how they are able to bear so great a weight The most famous Reliques that are lockt up within these two Places are the Crown of Thorns with which Christ was Crown'd The Table-Cloath upon which he Supp'd with his Apostles The Spunge and Head of the Spear wherewith his Side was pierc'd Some of the Virgins Milk Moses's Rod a piece of St. John Baptist's Head c. In short not to engage my self to give an account of all the Churches in particular I shall only tell yee that Paris contains One and fifty Parishes of which the most part consist of Twenty five Thirty and Thirty five thousand Communicants Two and fifty Monasteries Seventy eight Nunneries and Thirty Hospitals If we add to this that there are in Paris Eight hundred and thirty Streets Twelve Suburbs of which St. German des Prez alone is larger then many Capital Cities Ten Bridges Seventy three Piazza's and Market-Places though de la Croix says but Twenty five and a great Number of Palaces or Noble-Men's Houses 't will be no wonder to us what Charles V. said That he had seen in France a World a City and a Village The World was Paris the City was Orleans and the Village was Poitiers It would be no difficult thing to Arm in Paris Two hundred Thousand Men for the Service of the State for an Army might be rais'd only of the People that wear Liveries from
whither the King goes usually twice a Month to spend two or three days during which time he gives Audience to no body unless it be to his Ministers and those that are sent for to Council which his Majesty holds there concerning the most Important Affairs of State Next to Versailles St. German on Laie may dispute for Priority before all the other Royal Houses This place is famous for the Birth of Lewis XIV upon the 5th of Septemb. 1638. He was baptiz'd in the Old Castle the 21st of April 1643. Besides the Regularity and Magnificence of the Castle there are the Gardens and Grotto's to be seen adorn'd with a Thousand Figures of Water Among the rest in one of these Grotto's there is an Orpheus playing upon his Harp and with the motion of his Head and his Body keeping time to his Instrument He is also attended by a great number of Beasts that follow him as being enchanted with the Melody of his Harp which also draws after him Rocks Trees and Plants There is likewise Paradise Hell the Sea and the Four Elements so livelily represented that you would think your self in some Enchanted Place About a League from St. Germans upon one side of Paris you meet with the Traytors Wood divided into two parts by a spacious High-Way The Branches which you break off from one side of this Wood sink but those which you break off from the other side swim in the Water In this Wood it was that the Perfidious Ganelon contriv'd his Treason against the Peers of France and all the great Captains of Charlemagne which was put in Execution at the Battel of Roncevaux so fatal to France in the Passage of the Pyreneans St. Clou is another very beautiful Royal Seat belonging to Monsieur the King 's only Brother It stands upon a Hill near the Banks of the River Seine almost half way between Paris and Versailles The Paintings are very Noble the Furniture very Rich and the Cabinet of China wherein there are an infinite number of Curiosities and vast Riches is worthy the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Prince to whom it belongs As for the Castle of Madrit Francis I. caus'd it to be built in the Wood of Boulogne in memory of his being carry'd a Prisoner into Spain to let the Spaniards understand that he held it for no shame to have been made a Prisoner of War at the Head of his Army which had never befall'n him had he contented himself to Command in his Cabinet as the Kings of Spain do They who believe this Castle to be built after the same form as that where this Monarch was kept in durance are much deceiv'd for it is little or nothing like it It is nothing so magnificent now as formerly and the little care that is tak'n to repair it shews that the King has no great Fancy for the Seat nor minds whether it go to ruin or no. The Castle of Vincennes is considerable as being the Place where Prisoners of War of great Quality are Confin'd and many times Prisoners of State witness the Princes of Conde and Conti and the Duke of Longueville in the Time of Cardinal Mazarin It is very large and flank'd with Eight great Towers Here are kept the Chains of the Streets of Paris which Charles VI. took away after he had chastiz'd that City for her Rebellion Fountainbleau is another Royal Seat so call'd from the great number of Springs in that place It lyes about Twelve Leagues from Paris and in regard it is a Country proper for Hunting the Court spends a great part of the Autumn in this Place This Castle is very large as being said to contain Nine hundred Chambers Halls Cabinets or Galleries where Art has quite exhausted her self to render every thing worthy the Residence of our Monarchs At Fontainbleau it was where Marshal Biron was disarm'd by the King's Order and where Cardinal Perron and the Sieur du Plessis-Mornai met in the Presence of Hen. 4. to Dispute upon Matters of Religion which drew thither the most Learned of both Parties and 't is said that when the two Disputants could not agree the King addressing himself to the Cardinal ask'd him Whether all those that were separated from the Roman Church were damn'd His Eminency and the rest of the Catholick Doctors assur'd him That there was nothing more certain After which the K. demanding from those of the Protestant Party whether it were a Point of their Doctrine that there was no Salvation for those that were not of their Communion They made answer 'T was none of their Opinion for that they thought the Mercy of God might extend to all Men. That being so reply'd the King ' t is my Judgment to choose the Certainty before the Vncertainty and so turn'd Roman Catholick Chantilli is a fair Seat belonging to Monsieur the Prince whither the Court often goes for the Recreation of Hunting It is an Epitome of Art and Nature 'T is observ'd that Hen. IV. being to Answer a Letter which he had receiv'd from the K. of Spain cramm'd full of Titles not only of the Kingdoms which the Kings of Spain and their Ancestors possess'd but of those they never had as also of Territories in the New World not yet discover'd took upon him no other Titles but only Citizen of Paris and Lord of Chantilli And there is much the same Story of Francis I. who writeing to Charles V. fill'd the first Page with only these words repeated King of France King of France adding only at the lower end Lord of Vauvre and Gonesse I shall say nothing of an Infinite Number of other Beautiful Seats and Houses of Pleasure in the Parts adjoyning to Paris as Ruel Meudon Conflans Seaux c. which are all fit for the Entertainment of Kings whether in respect of their Bigness or Magnificence It remains that I now say something of St. Denis the Burying-place of our Monarchs for which I design a particular Chapter Only before I conclude this I must not omit to tell yee that there is at Alincourt near Paris the Tomb of a Mother and her Children that gave Occasion to this Epitaph Here lyes the Son here lyes the Mother Here lyes the Daughter with the Father Here lyes the Sister and the Brother Here lyes the Husband here the Wife All but Three Body 's on my Life To Expound this Riddle you must know That a certain Young Stripling importun'd his Mothers Maid to grant him you may guess what who told her Mistress the Mother of the Young Man and a Widow She order'd the Servant to give him a Meeting in her Chamber where the Mother put her self in place of the Maid and having had the Company of her Son without discovering who she was at Nine Months end was brought to Bed of a Daughter which she put out till she came to such an Age and then sent for her home The Son in the mean time had been Travelling for several Years but
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THE Third Volume OF Historical Travels OVER EUROPE Containing the most Select Curiosities of ITALY THE Various Constitutions of Government under several Sovereign Princes and States their Strength their Riches and Revenues the sundry Customs Manners Coyns and Trade of the People Together with A Particular Description of the City of ROME the Conclave the Election of the Pope and Promotion of the Cardinals Accompany'd with a Great Number of Remarks never yet before imparted to the World Done out of French LONDON Printed for Hen. Rhodes at the Star the Corner of Bride-Lane in Fleetstreet 1694. TO THE READER 'T IS very true that several have set forth Descriptions of Italy but 't is no wonder that all Geographers should be Ambitious of making their Court to a Country that was once the Mistress of the World The Author is also very brief I must confess but many timas succinct Manuals are better Companions for a Gentleman then large Volumes They will go by Water with him and ride in his Coach where weighty Folio's would be too cumbersomo and unweildy Besides the Author himself assures ye that though he has not been so tedious as others yet that you shall meet in the succeeding few Chapters not only with Novelties which are pleasing to all Men but with an infinite number of most curious Remarks which never yet before were committed to the Press and which were the Observations of a Great and Learned Cardinal in some particulars and as to others of an Eminent Person who by means of his Publick Employments and his long Residence in the Courts of several Princes of Italy had gain'd a peculiar and perfect knowledge of the Country a great Argument of the Truth of what is offer'd to your View that there is much in a little and all clean from Fabulous Report Now then after these Encouragements to heighten your Curiosity I think it not convenient to add any more for fear of putting a long Epistle before a little Book HISTORICAL TRAVELS OVER EUROPE ITALY CHAP. I. Of Italy in General ALthô above fourscore Authors have wrote the Description of Italy nevertheless it is not known from whence it derives its Name Some deduce it from Oxen or Bulls which in the ancient obsolete Greek were called Itali and for the feeding of which Italy was then in high repute Others will have it so called from one Italus one of the first Kings of the Country It formerly bore the Names of Saturnia Ausonia Oenopia and Hesperia which it receiv'd from several Princes and renowned Captains that regin'd therein at several times This part of Europe is seated in the middle of the Temperate Zone between the 28th Degree and a half and the 42d and a half of Longitude and between the 37th Degree and a half and 48th and a half of Latitude It is bounded to the North by a ridge of Mountains called the Alpes which separate it from Germany and Switzerland to the West by the Alpes also and the River Var which divides it from France and Savoy to the East by the Mediterranean Sea otherwise call'd the Adriatic Sea or the Golph of Venice and to the South by the Tyrrhene or Tuscan Sea Where it is longest to take it from the Frontiers of Savoy to the farthest extremity of the Kingdom of Naples it extends it self about 280 French Leagues or 450 Italian Miles But the breadth of it is not all alike sometimes 30 in other places 40 60 80 and 100 French Leagues resembling a Boot that seems to kick at Sicily to force it into Africa Most Geographers divide Italy into four parts the first comprehends the ancient Lombardy wherein are contain'd the States or Dominions of the Dukes of Savoy Mantua Parma Modena Milanois the Republic of Venice Genoa and some other Petty Principalities The second includes the Ecclesiastical State and Tuscany The third the Kingdom of Naples And the fourth the Islands of Sardigna Sicily Corsica c. The Air is very wholsome and very temperate over all Italy except in the Ecclesiastical State where certain malignant Fevers are very rife and were much more frequent before the use of Ice in Summer to cool their Drink Italy produces in great plenty whatever is necessary for the support of Human Life as Corn Oyl Oranges Citrons Pomegranates with all sorts of Fruits and Flowers There is to be found both Sugar and Cotton in the Kingdom of Naples besides great store of Silkworms very good Horses and Bufalo's The
for the Winter as for the Summer Among the Rarities which are shewn to Strangers there is a Chariot of Massie Gold having six Horses of the same Metal spang'd to it and enchas'd all over with precious Stones There is also a little Castle of Gold with Artillery and Fortifications of the same Metal There is besides an Engin that carries her Royal Highness from her Chamber to her Baths with a single Pulley by the favour of a Counterpoise and that with all the safety and ease imaginable The Cathedral Church of Turin is very stately wherein is kept the sacred Sudary in which the Face and part of the Body of our Saviour are imprinted They assure ye that is the same wherein the Saviour of the World was shrouded before he was laid in the Sepulchre of Arimathea and that it was brought into Savoy by the Daughter of John King of Cyprus and Jerusalem who marry'd Lewis of Savoy But that which raises a greater Contest is this that they shew ye such another Sudary at Besanton the Capital of Franche Conte They whose Curiosity leads 'em to see the Tomb of Clement Marot the famous Poet and Valet de Chambre to Francis the First will find it at Turin For that having been banish'd for his irregular Life from the Court of France he went to Geneva from whence he was also expell'd for his loose Living and retiring to Turin died in 1544 in the 60th year of his Age. Althô he understood neither Hebrew Greek nor Latin nevertheless he Translated one part of David's Psalms into French Verse which are sung by the Protestants at this day both in Holland Germany and Switzerland And notwithstanding that the more Learned among them agree that he observ'd little exactness and that there are many Versions much better both for the Sense and the Poetry yet Marot's are still preferr'd before all others perhaps because he was censur'd by the Sorbon in the Reign of Francis the First Marot was born at Cahors in Querci and after his death the following EPITAPH was made upon him Querci the Court Piemont and all the Earth Bred Fed Enterr'd me knew my Worth Querci my Love the Court had all my Time Piemont my Bones and all the Earth my Rhime The Duke has also several Houses of Pleasure in the parts adjoyning to Turin of which the chiefest are Parc Valentin and Mille fleurs but they have all suffer'd very much through the Violences of the War as well as the rest of Piemont Suza is one of the principal Cities of Piemont by the Romans call'd Segusium which was one of Pompey's Colonies who was the first that open'd the passage of Mount Genevre It has undergone however several Calamities upon several occasions History informs us that Constantine the Great caus'd it to be plunder'd and then burnt In a second Conflagration which it suffer'd through the provok'd fury of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa all the Records and Rolls of the House of Savoy were consum'd This City is considerable for the situation of it in regard it shuts up one of the principal Inlets of France into Italy However the French have forc'd it several times more especially at the beginning of this Age though the Duke of Savoy had rais'd a dozen Barricado's in the Defiles which defended one another and in our time the King's Armies clear'd their way through it and are still in possession of it There are still to be seen at Suza very fair Remains of a Triumphal Arch which some say was erected by the Goths others by the Romans though others are of Opinion that they are the Ruines of the Trophies rear'd by the Emperor Augustus 740 years after the building of Rome and 14 before the Birth of our Saviour Nice is the Capital City of a County of the same name which was formerly included within Provence and which Amadeus the Seventh usurp'd from Joan Countess of Provence at the same time that she was busi'd in pacifying the Troubles of Naples To palliate which Usurpation the Dukes of Savoy alledge that Ioland the Mother and Nurse of Lewis the Third Count of Provence and King of Naples surrendred that County to Amadeus of Savoy in 1419 in compensation for the Sum of 160000 Livres which he pretended to be due to him from his Pupil But besides that that Sum was never due nor a sufficient Equivalent giv'n for that County Ioland had no power to grant away the Territories of her Son thô the Duke's Pretensions had been just However it were both the City and the County are now in the hands of the French Catinat making himself Master of the Cities of Nice and Villa Franca at the beginning of the year 1691. The City of Nice was founded by the Inhabitants of Marseilles who made it one of their Colonies And it was enlarg'd out of the Ruins of Cemella the Bishopric of which place was translated to Nice It is a Town of great Trade wherein are still to be seen some Remainders of an Amphitheatre erected in Honour of the Romans and some Footsteps of a Temple of Pluto and another dedicated to Juno The Citadel is built upon a steep Rock and is look'd upon as one of the strongest Forts in Europe The Turks besieg'd it in the year 1543 but were forc'd to leave it The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Repareus The Cities of Chamberi Montmelian and Villa Franca together with the Cities of Casal and Pignerol are already described in the Sixth Chapter of the First Volume of these Voyages CHAP. III. The State of Milan MIlanois is a Province of Italy with the Title of a Dukedom seated in the most beautiful Country of all Lombardy The Soyl is so fertile in Corn Wine and all manner of Fruits that it bears twice a year The High-ways are all drawn in a Line with a Canal of Running Water on each side which besides the Ornament of it serves for the Transportation of Goods and Merchandize from the adjoyning Countries The Goodness and Fertility of the Country procur'd it formerly the Envy of many and made it the Seat of cruel Wars The Revenues of it in time of Peace may amount to Two Millions and Four hundred thousand Crowns which Sum is advanc'd a third part in time of War This State is so numerously Peopl'd that in case of necessity it is able to bring above 50000 men into the Field Nevertheless the King of Spain is so ill serv'd that the Officers only make the benefit of the Revenue and his Catholick Majesty is constrain'd to send considerable Sums for the payment of 20000 Men which he maintains in the Country Besides the Spanish Money and the Genoese Coyn that goes currant in Milanois the Mint sends forth also Philipins Ducatoons Creusons Parbayolles and Sesins A Philipin contains the value of 6 Livres 6 Sols of the Country the Ducatoon 7 Livres the Creuson 5 Livres 10 Sols the Parbayolle 2 Sols and a half or 5 Sesins which is
made such lamentable Outcries that they mov'd the Victor to let 'em have their Statue for a Crown of Gold which he engag'd 'em to give the Soldier The City of Pavia is adorn'd with a University founded by Charlemain who in 734 took the City and Didier the last King of the Lombards Prisoner In 1525 Francis the First having laid Siege to Pavia and sent a part of his Army to Naples Charles the Fifth taking advantage of that Diversion gave him Battel which prov'd so fatal to France that the King was taken Prisoner and carry'd into Spain 'T is observ'd that this happen'd upon St. Matthias's day a day always fortunate to that Emperor For he was born upon that day and receiv'd the Imperial Crown upon that day CHAP. IV. Of the Republic of Genoa THE State of Genoa is a Fief of the Empire which possesses that part of the Mediterranean Coast which we call La Riviera di Genoa and which was heretofore the Country of the ancient Ligurians This Republic carries the Name of The Capital City which some will have to derive the Name of it from Janus At this day it is divided into the Western and the Eastern Riviera being bounded by the River Magro to the East by the Principality of Monaco to the West the Mountains of Piemont and Milanois to the North and the Ligustic Sea to the South The Maritime Force of this Commonwealth consists in Armed Gallies and two Men of War carrying between 60 and 70 Guns apiece for the security of Trade Upon a case of Extremity they can bring into the Field 30000 Foot There are about 69000 Souls in the City of Genoa 80000 in the Eastern Riviera and about 113000 in the Western Riviera The Revenues of this Republic amount to 1200000 Crowns but in regard the most part of it is engag'd for the Debts of the State there remains not above 150000 Livres as I have learnt from the most exact Memoirs drawn up by a Person who by reason of his Employment was perfectly well acquainted with the Finances of the Republic The Money stamp'd with the Arms of Spain goes currant in the State of Genoa when it is Weight Nevertheless the Republic coins Pistolets Genoeses Piasters Reals and some other small Money The Spanish Pistole is worth 17 Livres 16 Sols which is as much as 3 Piasters one Genoese goes for 3 Piasters and a half The Piaster of Perou which weighs a French Crown is worth 4 Livres 16 Sols So that a French Livre amounts to 32 Sols of Genoa The Genoeses are very expert in Sea-Affairs and have contributed very much toward all the Enterprizes that have been undertaken for the Conquest of the Holy Land In former times they won from the Infidels the Kingdoms of Corfu Sardinia and Cyprus as also the Islands of Metelite and Chio and have been Masters of the Cities of Coffa and Pera. 'T is true that at present they are despoil'd of all these Countries except Corse from whence they have no other advantage but that of a Royal Crown affixed over the Arms of the Republic and the Title of Most Serene The Genoeses are proud and inconstant of which the sundry sorts of Government which they have admitted within these few years are an uncontroulable Proof At present they keep much to the humour of the Spaniards even to an Affection of their Habit. Nor are they belov'd by the rest of the People of Italy among whom these Characters of the Genoeses are very common Gente senza Fide Mare senza Pesce Monte senza Legno Donna senza Veregogna A people without Faith a Sea without Fish Mountains without Wood and Women without Modesty The Genoeses differ from the Spaniards in this that they are much addicted to Trade and Labour The Gentlemen drive a Trade in all manner of Stuffs which they sell by Wholesale for they are not permitted to sell by Retail nor to keep Shops 'T is a custom in Genoa That the Parties never sign the Acts which are pass'd before the Public Notary who by this means are the Masters of the Estates and Tranquility of Families Nor do the Witnesses sign their Depositions neither are they brought Face to Face with the Parties accus'd The Nobility are not to have either directly or indirectly any private Communication with any Foreign Ministers When a Stranger arrives at Genoa he is oblig'd to give in his Name to the Commissioners appointed from whom they have leave to remain four days in the City without which they would not be admitted into any Inn. And it is observable that if a Man be not very careful to carry this Permission about him and to renew it in case he intends to stay any longer he is in danger to be seiz'd by the Sbirri and condemn'd to a Forfeiture of 5 Pistoles When they proceed to the Election of Senators several persons put Money into that which is call'd the Seminary as into a Lottery And they who have the good fortune to divine who will be the five Senators whose Names are first drawn among a hundred and twenty out of a small Box by a little Boy such is the multiplication of the Money at that sort of Play that a Man who has ventur'd 10 Pistoles may win between 7 and 800. Which thô it rarely falls out yet the Accident is not without Example The Genoeses wear Fardingales which is the reason that they frequently embarrass one another when they meet in the Streets which are very narrow One day a Lady made use of her Fardingale to get her Son out of Prison He was about 18 years of Age and was condemn'd to die His Mother having leave to visit him in order to the taking of her last Leave of him put him under her Petticoat which was born up by a circle of Steel in stead of Whalebone and two Women leading her as she went along according to the custom of Italy she got home and was deliver'd without the help of a Midwife and the same day sent away her Child as far as Marseilles to Nurse The most part of the Houses in Genoa are built with Terrasses at the top where the Women go to dry their Hair after they have wash'd 'em to make 'em look yellow There is no State in Europe that has submitted to so many sorts of Government as that of Genoa Not to make an exact Enumeration of 'em I shall only acquaint ye That they were first subjected to the Romans afterwards to the Lombards and then to the Emperors 'T is observ'd that from the year 1454 to 1528 Genoa has been under twelve sorts of Government She has been rul'd by Consuls Podesta's Captains Governors Lieutenants Rectors of the People Abbots of the People Reformers Dukes both Noble and Popular c. The Kings of France have been in possession of Genoa at several different times In 1396 this City was surrender'd to Charles VI. and in 1409 the Inhabitants massacred the French and put
Some say this Statue was erected in Honour of one of Alexander's Soldiers who had done him many signal Services Others reject this Opinion and tell us that the Word Pasquin is deriv'd from a Taylor who made Cloaths for Persons of Quality in Rome and in regard he was a very great Droll he observ'd their blind sides to make Lampoons upon 'em in his Shop which always gain'd him good Company They add that sometime after his Decease the Paviers digging before his Door found a Statue to which they presently gave the Name of Pasquin and set it up in the next Quarter to his House However it were it was propos'd to one of the Popes that it might be thrown into Tiber to take away all Opportunities of Libelling and Lampoons that were fix'd upon it But the Holy Father made answer that he was afraid it would turn to a Frog that would be croaking Day and Night intimating thereby that instead of stopping the Course of Satyrs the Lampooners would fix 'em upon all the Statues in the City Not far from the Capitol stands another Statue call'd Manforio where generally are hung up the Answers made to the Lampoons which are fix'd upon Pasquin Some say this Statue was erected in honour or Jupiter Panarius others that it is a Statue of the Rhine because that formerly the Emperot Domitian's Brazen Horse set his Foot upon the Head of it There is no City in the World wherein there are more Magnificent Palaces The Learned Mr. Spon in his Travels into the East has given us a Catalogue of 'em which has sav'd me the trouble I shall only say that the Palace of the Farnezi is one of the most sumptuous It has four Fronts with a large Gate belonging to every one that leads into the Court and is surrounded with Pillars forming Portico's that support an open Gallery that leads to every Apartment In this Court stand two Statues of Hercules leaning upon his Club one of which was found in Caracalla's Baths the other is an Imitation of That In the Palace Hall stands the Statue of Alexander Farneze Duke of Parma who tramples under foot two Statues representing Heresie and Rebellion while Fame sets a Crown upon his Head This Piece is so much the more esteem'd because all the four Peices are all of one single Stone of White Marble There are an infinite number of other Lovely Statues and Pictures in the Apartments belonging to this Palace More particularly there is to be seen a Marble Statue in a small Back-Court representing the Figure of a Bull all of one Stone having one of the Horns ty'd with a Woman's Hair while two Men endeavour to throw 'em into the Sea 'T is the History of Amphion and Zethes who in revenge of the injury done their Mother whom Lycus King of Thebes had repudiated upon the Importunity of Dirce ty'd Dirce to the Horns of a Bull and cast 'em both Headlong into the Sea One of the Curiosities of Rome which Strangers always visit is to be found in Prince Ludovisio's Palace that is to say the Body of a Man petrefy'd and laid in a Velvet Box with one Leg broken to convince the Incredulity of the Curious who will not believe that the Skeleton was cover'd with Stone because they say it was a Garment made on purpose This justifies what Ortelius affirms That upon certain Mountains of Tartary there are to be found Men Camels Sheep e. chang'd into Stones for above Three Hundred Years past And Aristotle reports that there is a Cave near Bergamo where are to be seen the Petrify'd Bodys of several Men. When I enumerated the Churches of Rome I forgot to tell ye that in the Church call'd La Bocca di Verita there is a piece of Marble representing a Head with the Mouth open And the Good Women do say that if a Woman Unfaithful to her Husband's Bed lays her Hand upon it the Mouth will shut The Roman Women who have Jealous and Credulous Husbands frequently justifie their Chastity by this means wherein they run far less hazard then they who formerly were constrain'd to walk bare-foot over red hot Coals and Plough-shares This is what I purpos'd to say of the Famous City of Rome wherein though I have omitted many things yet there is sufficient to give an Advantageous Idea of it to those who have never seen it and to breed in others a desire of seeing it CHAP. XII Of the Kingdom of Naples THERE is not any State in Italy of that vast Extent as the Kingdom of Naples Some Italian Authors have call'd it Sicily on this side the Pharos which is the reason that the Kings of Spain have assum'd the Title of Kings of both Sicilies Generally this Kingdom is divided into Twelve Provinces viz. La Terra di Lavore Principato Giteriore Principato Vlteriore Calabria Vlteriore La Terra d' Otranto La Terra di Bari La Capitanata the County of Molisso the hithermost Abruzzo and the furthermost Abruzzo It is reckon'd to contain 24 Archbishopricks 60 Principalities 100 Dukedoms as many Marquisates 66 Earldoms and above 1000 Baronies Which shews us that the Nobility multiplies in that Kingdom more then any where else which is the reason that Naples is call'd Naples the Noble The Air is very wholsome and the Country very fruitful in Corn Wine and all sorts of Fruits This Kingdom has not been free from Revolutions that have turmoyl'd the Repose of Italy upon several Occasions It has been in the Possession of the Romans Goths Lombards Normans Suabians French and Spaniards Which latter Usurp'd it from the French who have an undoubted claim to it as well by the Investiture given by Clement IV. both of that Kingdom as also of Sicily to Charles of France Duke of Anjou and Provence Brother of St. Lewis in 1265. as for that Queen Joan I. by her last Will and Testament dated June 29 1480. adopted Lewis of France I. of that Name Jane II. who possessed the Throne from the Year 1414. till the Year 1434. adopted Rene of France Sirnam'd The Good which acquir'd him a double Right But Ferdinand King of Spain contrary to the Treaty made with Lewis XII King of France sent a Puissant Army into Italy under the leading of the Famous Gonsalvo who drove the French out of Naples and Sicily since which time the Spaniards have been in possession of 'em and keep a Viceroy there who is chang'd every three Years The Kingdom of Naples holds of the Holy See and the King of Spain pays every year to the Pope upon St. Peter's Day a Tribute of a White Nag and a Purse of 7000 Ducats But the Neapolitans do not willingly brook the Spanish Yoak And therefore they have endeavour'd to cast it off several Times But their last Insurrection was in the years 1646. and 1647. tho they fail'd in the success because the Design was ill laid and ' for that the Male-Contents had no body to head em
splendid then the King of Spain's The Air is temperate the Haven the Fountains and the Magnificence of the Buildings contribute not a little to render Palermo a pleasant Habitation and therefore the Chiefest of the Nobility reside there In the Great Piazza that faces the Palace stands the Statue of Philip IV. upon a Pedestal upon which are represented the Victories of that Monarch supported by Four Figures representing the Four Virtues the whole of White Marble In another Piazza stands a Brass Statue of Charles V. upon a Pedestal of Marble In the meeting of the new Street and Cassaron street which are two of the fairest Streets in Palermo is to be seen the Palace a noble Fountain and Four Statues of the King 's of Spain Charles V. Philip II. III. IV. which are the most beautiful Ornaments of the City In the Piazza right against the Palace of Justice stands a Fountain which deservedly is lookt upon to be the most beautiful in Europe It consists of several hollow Receptacles one above another separated by Galeries whither you ascend to admire the variety of large Animals that spout forth Water after different manners The whole is of Marble with a great number of Figures of the same Stone After that you have seen all that is curious in Palermo Travellers go to visit Mount Peregrin at the top of which after an ascent of Three Miles you meet with a Cave almost like that of St. Beaume in Provence which was the retirement of Sta Rasalia and 't is reported that the Fountain within that Grotto has a peculiar Quality to Heal several Distempers Thô the City of Mont Real be not above Four Miles distant from Palermo however it is an Archiepiscopal See From thence there is a Prospect of Nine Islands call'd by the Name of Lipari which is the name of the most considerable among ' em Of which two Vulcano and Stromboli are not inhabited because of their continual vomiting forth Flames and Smoak for which reason they are call'd the Burning Islands of Sicily However these Islands are not to be taken confusedly for Mount Aetna commonly call'd Mount Gibello the highest Mountain in Sicily which thô almost cover'd with Snow yet continually vomits forth flames of Fire like a Glass-house Furnace and spreads the Ashes of the consum'd Materials with that impetuosity that the Country is frequently much endamaged thereby thô if the same Ashes are but moderately scatter'd over the Ground they enfertilize the Earth The City of Catanea lying under this Mountain has suffer'd many Conflagrations occasion'd by the sparkles of this Infernal Gulph Several Persons that have been so curious as to climb to the Top of Mount Gibello have been either lost in the Snow or buried in the Ashes and many times the Flames enforce their way through Chawns and Rifts ne'r known before with such an amazing noise as alarms all the Island Not far from Mount Gibello is the place where some will have it that Ceres first began to sow Wheat and they will undertake to shew ye the Meadows where Hercules fed his Oxen. The Lake Naphtica is noted for this that the stench of the Water is so noisom that it poisons the adjacent Air and very much impairs the Health of the neighbouring Inhabitants There is another Lake near Castro Giovanni which is said to have no bottom 'T is call'd the Lake of Proserpina upon a suspition that it was the place where Proserpina was Ravish'd and carried to the Infernal Regions by her Ravisher Messina is an Archiepiscopal City famous for the Haven that belongs to it near Cape Faro which makes it a Town of Great Trade and much frequented by Foreigners In the Grand Piazza stands a Brass Statue of Philip IV. upon a Horse of the same Metal the whole Adorn'd with Base-Reliefs representing his most famous Actions Over the Door of a Tower near the Metropolitan Church stands a French Inscription Grand-merci a Messina in remembrance as they say that the French began with Messina when they made themselves Masters of the Island There are several other Whirlpools or Abysses of Water in the Sea adjoyning to Messina among the rest Charybdis Famous among the Latin Poets This Whirlpool is about Thirty Paces in Diameter which compass of the Surface is usually cover'd with Froth Bulrushes and other foul excrescencies of the Sea which throw themselves into it and are swallow'd up by it Nevertheless the Mariners of Messina Sail over in flat bottom'd Barks where after several times being whirl'd and turn'd about they row themselves back The Tides of Ebb and Flood are so rapid in the Channel that separates Sicily from Italy that they many times force the Vessels riding there from their Anchors let 'em be never so strong which is the loss of many a Ship Saragossa or Syracuse was formerly lookt upon as the largest and most Magnificent City in the Universe Athens beheld her self abandon'd by the Greatest part of her Inhabitants who betook themselves to settle at Syracuse And the most sumptuous Edifices in Rome derive their chiefest Ornaments from the Spoils of her Structures The most beautiful Ruin of her Antiquity remaining is the Aqueduct cut out of a Rock that carries the Water over the Haven about Ten Miles in length Without the City is to be seen Arethusa's Fountain that rises in great abundance out of a Rock by the Sea-side and they report that this Water comes from the Holy Land by a conveyance that runs under the Abysses of the Sea But the greatest Evidence that they alleadge for it is this That a Pilgrim one day taking up Water out of the River Alpheus by chance let his Dish fall into the River and lost it to his incredible Grief for that he had hid within it Seven Pistoles for unforeseen occasions That embarking to return for Europe he landed in Sicily and going to the Fountain Arethusa to Drink he found his Dish floating upon the Water which he knew again not only by the Seven Pistoles but by several other marks Dionysius the Tyrants Grotto lies not far distant from Saragossa much more considerable than any of those about Puzzuolo For there you may see a whole City cut out of a Rock with subterraneal Streets Palaces Piazza's and other admirable Structures But you must have some notable Antiquarie for your guide that knows all the Turnings and Windings and be well provided with Matches and Torches There are several other Islands between Sicily and Barbary as Maltha Gozes Limosa Lampadousa c. but in regard they rather belong to Africa then Europe I shall say nothing of 'em here Nevertheless I cannot forbear observing that in the last there is a Chappel where you shall meet with all sorts of Refreshments for Sea faring People and all that is necessary for Navigation as Biscuit Cordage Anchors Sails Oil Wood Fish Stuffs c. And all that Sail near that Island and have occasion for any of those things goe and
fetch 'em from that Chappel leaving the value in other Commodities with which their Vessel is best provided All Nations even the Turks themselves goe thither for what they want and 't is said that if they fail to leave a Compensation their Ships can stir no farther let the Wind be never so favourable We are assur'd that several have known this to be true by many Tryals However it be that Chappel is hewen out of a Rock and some Paces from thence there is a Spring of excellent fresh Water which will keep sweet a long time at Sea As for Sardigna there are not so many Remarks to be made upon that Island All that I can say of it is that 't is an Island in the Mediterranean Sea with the Title of a Kingdom belonging to the King of Spain who Governs it by a Viceroy The Air is so thick that formerly such persons were banish'd thither as the State had a mind to be rid of that there is a Breed of Great Dogs there bigger then the Dogs in England and such an infinite number of Rats that the King of Spain has enjoyn'd all the Owners of Houses to keep as many Cats as they have Rooms The Ancient Sardignians had a Law which ordain'd that the Sons should knock out their Parents Brains when once they came to be Superannuated for fear the Infirmity of their Minds should incline 'em to commit Faults prejudicial to their Families or the Government CHAP. XIV Of the Island of Corse THis Island is seated to the North of Sardigna from whence it is separated by a Channel that may be Sail'd over in an hour and lies between the 40 and 42 Degree of Latitude and between the 31 and 32 of Longitude The largest extent of it from South to North is about 40 Leagues 20 Broad and in Circuit about Fourscore and Ten. It is said to have been so call'd from a Woman of Liguria whose Name was Corsa Bubulca who carried thither a Colonie out of her own Country The Island of Corse has belong'd to the Genoeses ever since the year 1559. at what time Henry II. Granted it to 'em at the request of the Spaniards after the Battel of St. Quintin Nevertheless the People are not pleas'd with their Government and the Genoeses on the other side who are afraid of their Revolting or lest some Foreign Power should make themselves Masters of it do as much as in them lies to lay it waste and give out that the Air is too unwholsome for People that are not bred there Besides that the Soil is so ungrateful that it will hardly return the Seed that is sown in it However 't is certain that this is spoken either out of Malice or Sloth for that it brings forth Corn Wine and all sorts of Fruits more then sufficient the Inhabitants that it produces good Horses and Timber for Shipping and that there are in it several Mines of Copper Lead c. Baths and Mineral Fountains among which that of Povera in the Province of Ampugnano cures the Dropsie Besides that they fish for Coral upon the Coasts Moreover this Island might be made a place of great Trade for that there is no want of good and convenient Havens of which the chiefest are San Fiorenzo Ajacho and Porto Vecchio big enough to contain whole Fleets The First was formerly Fortifi'd by the French but the Genoeses have demolish'd the best Works having left nothing but the Foundations which are of Free-stone The Corses are good Soldiers very strong but very slothful and no less revengeful so that upon their Death-beds they recommend the revenge of Injuries done 'em to their Kindred Thô there be Five Bishopricks in the Island yet there is but one considerable City which is Bastia the Metropolis of the Country and Residence of the Governor There are but Five hundred Men in the Pay of the Republick for security of the whole Island so that it might be an easie thing to surprize it especially for those that are stronger at Sea then the Genoeses are The END