the Campania on every side of the High-way You will meet with many Ruins of Ancient Burial-Places for several Miles from the City Velitre is an Ancient City of the Volsci much famed also for the Parents of Octavius Augustus who were Originaly of this Place Upon the Way from Veletri to Sezza upon the Hill-side under Sarninetta there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the Tres Tabernaâ— of which St. Luke speaks in the 28. Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles Sezza formerly Setia was much commended for its Wine whence that of Juvenal Tunc illa time cum pocula sume Gemmata lato Setinum ardebit in auro Piperno in Latin Privernum and the Inhabitants Privernati near to this Place Iris Florentina grows abundantly Terracina was Anciently called Auxur in the Language of the Volsci of whom this was the Metropolis Strabo sayeth that it was called Trachina quasi Aspera from the Rockiness of the Hill upon which it is Placed altho' the Town be Ancient it is not very considerable it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastick Estate towards Naples Passengers use to Dine here at a pittiful Inn without the Town where there is no manner of Furniture but VVood to make Fire it not being secure for any Body to live in it because of the Turks that often Land here and take what they can meet with VVhen the People that keep the House see any Strangers Arrive instantly they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town The Sea comes very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town stands and on that side which is towards Naples the Rock is precipitious and betwixt it and the Sea leaves but a very narrow and strait Passage which one Man may Guarde against a Hundred Fondi is the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of Naples here you must give notice to the Officers appointed for that purpose of your intended Journey for Naples and cause registrat your Name together with the marks of your Horse that he may be the better known when you return to be the same that you brought along with you from Rome or otherways you will not miss to be challenged upon your return and stopt untill you can produce a Certificat that he is the very same you brought into the Kingdom with you There being a General Prohibition the observance whereof is Strictly lookt to against carrieing Horses or Mares out of the Kingdom into any foreign part least the breede of them which is esteemed amongst the best in Europe should become common to other Nations Notwithstanding of this severity sometimes with credit and sometimes with a little Money a Man may obtain permission for the Transporting of one or more either Horses or Mares Mola is one of the most pleasant places in rhe World being close upon the Sea side and but a little way from Gaieta to which you may go either by Sea or Land It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City Formiae where Cicero had his Villa Formiana The place abounds with many plants and great Varietie of the choisest Fruits especially the Agrumi such as Citrons Oranges Limons c of all sorts If ye please to go to Gaieta it is worth the while It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea from the main-Land about three miles and by that means becomes peninsule and formeth on the side towards Rome betwixt it and Terracina that Sinus Gaitanus about twelve miles in length The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly There is a great Rock hard by which is rent from Top to Bottom which they say happened when the Saviour of the World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way betwixt it and Mola Trajetto is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of Minturnae stood where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost intire and the remains of a great Aqueduct It was amongst the Marishes near to Minturnae that C. Marius did hide himself when he fled from his Enemies whence that of Juvenal Exilium carcer Minturnarumque Paludes Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis You must pass at this place the River Garigliano called Liâ—is Anciently Capua is a new City standing upon the side of the River Vulturnus and some two miles from it the Ruins of the Old famous Capua which in the Old Romans Time was esteemed one of the most delicious Places in the VVorld There are yet Vestiges of the Gates of the City of a Theatre of a great many sumptuous Temples Cisternes under gronnd and a great many other things that evidently show it to have been a magnificent City The Country from Vulturnus to Naples is called the Campania Felice and is indeed the fertilest soyle and bautifullest Country that my Eyes ever beheld Aversa is a new City extructed out of the Ruins of Atella It is distant 8 Miles from Naples and famed for a kind of Wine called Asprinâ— That way which leades from Rome to Naples was Anciently called Via Appia from Appius Claudius the Censor who caused Pave this way from Rome just to Capua It begins at the Port now called St. Sebastian but Anciently Porta Capena from the Capenati a people of Latium to which that way did lead The Via Appia is of that breadth that one Chariot may easily pass another The Emperour Trajan did renew it and continue the Pavement even to Brindici drying the marishes plaining the Hills and filling up the Valleyes By this way Anciently did pass the greatest part of the Triumphs whence it was called Regina viarum whence that of Papinius Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum Altho' this way be Ruined in many places yet it is wonderfull to see in how great perfection a great deal of it continues Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length and Breadth so well paved with Quadrangular Stones that even to this Day altho' it be of common frequent Passage continueth as intire as if it were newly done Upon both sides of this way as far as Capua there are a great many Ancient Sepulchres many whereof are altogether ruined and some almost intire as yet in one of these Sepulchres in the Reign of Alexander VI. as Volateranus tells the Body of a Delicat young VVoman was found altogether intire in a Marble Chist She was of incomparable beautie having her long Flaxen Hair drawn together upon her Head with a Circle of Gold The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a burning Lamp at the Feet thereof which the Air coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre did instantly extinguish The Body as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place had lyen there thirteen Hundred Years Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of Tulliola the dearly Beloved Daughter of Cicero It was presented in
to speak to the Religious Men and take their Hour of conveniencie for seing of the Treasure which being done you will have time enough to return to Paris 7 I know nothing better worth your seing about Paris than the Aqueduct at Arcqueul about 2 leagues from the town it was built by Mary of Medices in the time of her Regencie for bringing the the water to her palace of Luxemborg Besides the Aqueduct you will also see there a verie fine Grotto with fine walks and manie prettie Jetts of water one afternoon suffice for this Journey 8. Fountainbleau in which there are so manie things considerable not only in the House furniture and painting but also in the Gardens Walks Fish-ponds and water-works that it will be less trouble for you to observe them by seing than by a long narration I shall only tell you for the better improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first to go to 9. Esson a House seven leagues from Paris belonging to a private Gentleman where you will see very fine water works and many other prettie conceats from thence you have 3 leagues 10. To Durance a privat House likewise but to which there belongs very noble gardens and walkes with delicat Ponds and Jetts of water It will not be a miss to stay here all the night being You will have 4 Leagues to Fontainbleau a great part of which is through the Forrest and therefore better to be gone in the morning when the day is before Your hand than in the evening when night may surprize You. 11. You may arrive so early in the morning at Fountainbleau that You may have time to see all before dinner and thereafter returne to Veau a most stately house and gardens correspondent to it built by Monsr Fouguesâ— but since his disgrace it 's fallen to the King From hence you may returne a short League off your way to lodge at Melun The next morning You will have an easie Journey to Paris and time enough if you please to see Vinceu within two short Leagues of Paris It is a House belonging to the King in the middle of a verie pleasant Park after you have seen the House emember to see the Wild Beasts that are kept not far from it If You resolve upon making any greater toure into the counrey I shall advise You to provide a Book called le voyage de France of the latest edition which will give you a hint of the most considerable things that are to be seen in those Places you go to I shall deferr any thing I would say further untill I be happie to hear of Your safe arivall at Paris and then I would be content to trouble you with an other sheet in the mean time I pray for Your happie journey and safe returne Sir I intreat You to signifie to Mr. Hannay as also to Mr. Cranston that if they have any thing to send to me You will be pleased to take charge of it I shall beseech You likewise to do the same by Monsr Marchant at Paris LETTER II. Containing Advice for makeing the grand Toure of France with an Account of what is most observable relateing especially to the Natural History and Antiquities of that Kingdom Sir IT seems You are not yet resolved whither to spend the Winter in Paris or in the Country my opinion is that out of Paris there is litle thing either to be seen or learned in all France But in regard it is pertinent for a Traveler to see some thing of the countrie as well as the chief Town I shall therefore advise you to see those Places chieflie that I judge most suitable to your inclinations and particularie in order to Botany that is Languedock and Provence for altho' there be manie other places of France verie worthie the â—eing as particularlie the River Loyre from Orleance downward to Nantes which for the fertilitie aud beautie of the countrey the frequencie of good Towns and gentle disposition and Courtesie of the inhabitants is called the Garden of France yet you will find that Climate produces but a few things different from Normandy or the Isle of France But if you should incline to see it my advice is that you should not spend much time in doing of it and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the following Advice at your Discretion I suppose You leave Paris about the beginning of June for I would not have you loose the Month of May in the Kings Garden in regard most things will be then or a little before in their Prime which now that the Garden of Blois is no more in Condition is undoubtedly the best you are like to meet with and therefore 1. you may go to Orleans by the Messenger it is but two Days Journie Lodge Chez Monsr Ogilbie sur l'â—â—stape au Roy de la Grand Bretaigne A Day or two will serve you to see all that is considerable in the place It will be worth your while to see a place some two Leagues from the City called the Source where in the midst of a fair green Meadow you will see a Spring of Water so plentifull that it is navigable from its Head and powrs out a River called Loirette 2ly From Orleans to Blois they count 15. Leagues yet it is but a short Days Journie besides if you please you have the Commoditie of the River to go by Boat Be pleased to take Notice of a place by the Way some 4. Leagues from Blois called St. Die where the best Claret in that Countrie grows and is ordinarly to be found Blois of itself is no very considerable Town yet it is famous for makeing of Watches for the Civilitie of the People for the Sweetness of the Air and Puritie of the French Language You must stay there some Days till you have seen the following Particulars viz. in one day you may get to Chambort a house belonging to the King some three leagues off on the south side of the River and South-East from the Town It is said to have been built by King Francis I. and is a very statelie House though of a far different Order of Architecture than what is now used From thence you may go to Herbeau 3. Leagues to the southward of that a privat house belonging to a Gentleman that beares the title thereof It is a very pleasant seat having very fine Gardens with an Orangery Fish-Ponds Woods Maille and Meadowes belonging to it from thence you may go to Bean-Regard another privat house where amongst other prettie things you will see a fine Gallerie well ornamented with the pictures of such persons as have been illustrious for some age from thence you returne to Blois at night as you go and come you will have occasion to see that part of the forrest of Blois that lyes to the South of the River and town as also a litle village called St. Gervais famous over all that countrey
Ancona is about half a days Journey from Loretto It is a verie ancient City and the best Sea Port in Italy at least upon the Adriatick Coast The Port was Built at least Restored and Beautified by Trajan the Emperour in whose Honour a most stately Triumphal Arch was Raised upon it which it yet extant with this Inscription in Capital Letters Imp. Caes. diâ—i Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo August Germanic Daetico Pontef max. Tr. Pot. xix Imp. xi Cos. vii P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R. Quod adcessum Italiae Hoc etiam addito ex pecunia sua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus reddiderit And upon the Right side thereof You may Read this Inscription Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug. And upon the left Divae Marcian Aug sorori August Cenigalia is a little Town having a Sea-Port It seems from the name to have been built and to have belonged to the Galli Cenones Fano Antiently Fanum because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here There is a stately Triumphall Arch of Marble 30 Cubits High Pesaro is a very Pleasant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace It is well Peopled and well Fortified The Duke of Vrbin to whom this City did belong used to pass one half of the Year here But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Dutchie is Reunited to the Ecclesiastick state Rimini in Latine Ariminum is like to be so called from the River Arimine that passes by it There are severall fair Palaces in it built by the Mala-testi antient Lords of the Place There is a Triumphal Arch erected in Honour of Augustus yet extant and the Ruines of a great Theatre But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge Built of great square Marble stones of twentie foot in length and 15. in breadth with five Arches The Bridge Joynes the Via Flaminia and the Via Emilia together It is said to have been Built by Tiberius Caesar. In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which Julius Caesar stood and encouraged his Officers when he began the Civil War This Stone hath this Inscription C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato civili Bello Comilitones suos hic in forâ— Ariminensi adlocutus Within a Mile of Cesina or there abouts You must pass the Rubicon which seems to be but a Torrent and in the Summer time for the most part dry At the place where You pass there is yet extant an ancient Pillar the Inscription whereof hath made the name of Rubicon so famous it is as follows Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito Vexillum sinito ne citra hunc amnem Rubiconem signa Arma ductum commeatum Exercitumque traducito siquis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit feceritve adjudicatus esto hostis P R. ac si contra Patriam armaverit Sacrosque Penatos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus NE Consulto ultra hos fines Armae proferre liceat nemini S. P. Q. R. And upon the other side of the Pillar the following Inscription Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu adagio Jactae alcae Celebratum Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajectum Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Superstitio Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio Innocent X o Summo Pont Card D Legato 1654. Furli in Latine Forum Livii where there is litle thing considerable except the Market Place Faenza is divided in two by the River Lamone over which stands a goodly Bridge that Joynes the two parts of the Town together it is called in Latine Faventia and the People Faventini The whole way from Ancona to Bolognia is Plain and Smooth and the Countrey on all sides very Rich and Fertile but especially near to Bolognia which deservedly is called la Crassa where the whole Countrey on everie sâ—de of the high way looks like Gardens being Hedged and closed in on all sides and Planted with Olive and while Mulberry Trees the Leaves whereof â—erve to the â—eeding of Silk Wormes and at the Roots of which the Vines being Planted run up and spread themselves thorow all the Branches of the Trees and load them with Grapes The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sowen sometimes with Wheat or other usefull Grain or Kitchin Herbs and Roots Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choisest Fruits that Italy affoords Bolognia is the second Town of the Ecclesiastick State sweetly situated in a large Plain near to some Hills at the one side The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth and about 5 Miles in Compass The Inhabitants are not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques There is a famous University many fine Colledges worthie to be seen As also many fine Churches Religious Houses The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. Peters has the Priviledge of making Doctors above others In the Church of Corpus Christi may be seen the intire Body of St. Katharine of Vigri a Religious Woman of the Order of St. Clare that Died at Bolognia in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bent and streacht her Eyes open her Hands and Feet bare In one Hand She holds a Crucifix the other is placed upon a Pillow They use in the presence of a great deal of Companie to paire her Nails every Month and to cut her Hair once a Year after they are grown In the Iacobins Church is keept the Head of St. Dominick in a Rich Tabernacle and his Body in a Curious Tomb of white Marble cut in severall figures of Base relieve In the Choire may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament with wonderfull Artifice represented in mosaick of of Wood. There is also to be seen here a rare Peece of Painting of the Innocents made by Guido Reni all the parts of this Convent are worthie the taking notice of the Cloisters the Dormitories of above 150 Religious the Refictory Painted by great Masters the Apothecaries Shop and the Bibliotheck and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big There be many fine Palaces worthie the seeing and very well Ornamented within but especially the Popes own Palace where the Legat resides and in it you must take particular care to see Aldrovandi's Studie and Collection of Curiosities which are keept in this Palace and commonly intrusted to the Legats Physitian There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court Aldrovandi's Garden in which there are some Curious Plants In the Study you will see a great Herball in water Colours but without any description as also a whole press full of Manuscripts written all with his own Hand There are severall Towres in the
came to Qualify him exceedingly for performing all that is recorded of him ‖ In the Memoria BALFOURâ—Aâ—A When He wrot these Letters He had setled his abode at Edinburgh where He Practised Physick with great Success deservedly gained the Reputation of the best Qualified Physitian in the place and accordingly was employed by these of the best Rank About a Year or two after his settlement here He took the Resolution of erecting a publick Garden for Plants and a Cabinet of Curiosities He had begun the last in his own Lodging and was projecting how He might establish the other when He became acquainted with that worthie Gentleman Patrick Murray Baron of Livingstone to whom these Letters now publish'd were addressed This Gentleman designed so much for the good Honour of his Country that I cannot but in this place do that Justice to his Memorie to give the World some Character of him having been well acquainted with him having had the happiness to make the Acquaintance beginn the Friendship contracted betwixt him and Sir Andrew Balfour which produced these Letters This Gentleman had a particular Genie inclining him to studie Natural History and all the wayes and means how to improve the Arts most usefull to his Countrie He had studied the Mathemathicks delighted much in the practical part of them employed much of the Revenue of that plentifull Estate He had from his Ancestors in purchasing Instruments Curious Books which treated on these Subjects He having Travelled over a great part of this Country in searching after the Plants that grew wild up and down in it withall having read severall writers on the Plants he every Year sent for new Seeds of foreign Plants He inclosed a considerable Parcel of Ground in which He trained them up with great Skill and before He 〈◊〉 to his Travells He had of domestick and foreign Plants growing in his Garden at Livingstone above a Thousand He was above thirty six Years of Age before He began his Travells and had fitted himself by reading of Voyages and such Books as might best inform him of what He was to inquire for in foreign Countries yeâ— He was so sensible of the great Advantaâ—â—◠〈◊〉 that Learning Sir Andrew Balfour 〈◊〉 â—â—â—ster of that He not only informâ—d 〈…〉 him of the best Books fitted 〈…〉 and the designe He had to Learne all that might be for the improving of knowledge of the Arts usefull to this Country but likewise He obtained his promise to intertain a Correspondence with him whilst He was in foreign Countries by Letters upon all Occasions These three make a Part of what Sir Andrew wrote He had whilst He was abroad bought up most of the writers extant upon Plants and other parts of naturall History and many relating to the culture of Plants He had â—exactly learned all the Plants then keept in the Kings Garden at Paris the most compleat that is in the World either for the number or the Quality of the Plants or in privat Gardens there and had travelled thorough a great part of France when He was surprized with a Feaver that he contracted at Avignion of which he dyed He begun his Voyage the 2d of September 1668 and dyed in August or September 1671. In these places of England and France He Travelled thorough He gives a very particular Account even of the Dimension of the Publick Buildings the Remarks the distances of the places He gives an Account of the Government of France of the Peers there the Orders of Knighthood He gives an account of the Remarkable Manufactories in France particularizes some of the Mines and Quarries of Marble and has an Account of the Canale for the Communication betwixt the Mediterranean and the Ocean He shows the Quality of the Weather the Habits of the People in the Souths parts of France He desâ—â—ibes the Monuments of Eminent Men 〈◊〉 some of their Sepulchral inscriptions and takes notice of the best Gardens and of the Câ—â—iners of the Curious where He Travelled describing many particulars not to be â—et â—ith in the printed Voyages and upon this Account his Voyage deserves very well to be made Publick As to these Letters of Sir Andrew Balfour now published I shall leave the Judgement of them to the Learned who may peruse them yet this I must say There are many particularities in them relating to Natural History and the way of Safe and connient Travelling not to be met with in the printed Accounts of these Countries and I am perswaded they are of Excelleut use for these who study Natural History and Physick where they may be informed where Plants other Subjects of them are to be found in their Native Places and where they may see the Cabinets of the Curious Others will be hereby instructed in the Manners Orders and Customes of these People They will find likeways many Curious Reflections which are Pleasant to read and may give rise to higher Considerations They will see what Varieties foreign Countries of a different Soil Temperature of Air do afford severall of which may be brought here and may be made usefull to this Country What Sir Andrew delivereth here is what he observed experienced and handled himself and none need question the Relations in any Circumstance He was known to be a most candid and Ingenious Gentleman He gives his apprehension and Judgment of the Reasons causes which was allways much valued by all which kneDw him being a Gentleman of Excellent VVit and Judgment He did not expect that they should be printed and in his lifetime he would never hear of it and such was his Modesty he never shewed them to any but his most intimate Friends and could not be perswaded to give a Copie of them but since his Death copies of them have past from hand to hand and all who have seen them are very well pleased whereupon at the earnest intreaty of his Friends his Son hath published them in the Stile he found them writen his design was to render all easie intelligible to his Friend he wrote them to if the Phrase Language seem in some places less ornate not so congruous as may be expected now it is to be remembred they were writen thirty Years ago when he had been Fifteen Years absent from his own Country had accustomed himself to speak foreign more Language than to Studie the Elegancie of his own Native Tongue this I think should excuse him at the hands of the Criticks He Studied more things than words yet as all know He expressed himself most handsomely upon all Occasions It was fitt this should be Represented The rest is left to the impartiall Reader who will meet with so many Remarkable usefull things in the Letters that there is no doubt of his kind Acceptance of them If these meet with the encouragement hoped for 't is like the Baron of Lovingstone his observations in his
its integrity to the Conservators of Rome and for some Days keept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity but Pope Alexder coming to understand it caused it to be thrown into the Tyber I must not omit to tell you that there is some incommoditie in this Journey both as to Dyeting and Lodging and sometimes there is perill from the Banditi But he that will gather Roses must not be affraid to prick his Fingers Besides that danger is but sometimes and you may probably find the way clear especially if the Vice-Roy be a stirring Active Man as it often happens For then the Banditi will hardly dare to come so far down from the Hills as the Via appia or High-way to Naples Naples was Anciently called Parthenope from one of the Sirens Buried in this place who as the Fables say Drowned her self for Grief that She could not Charm Vlysses and his Companions Hence Silius lib 12. Sirenum dedit una tuum memorabâ—â—â— nomen Parthenope muris Acheloias aequore cujus Regnavere dâ—l cantus cum dulce per undas Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis It was built Closs upon the Sea at the foot of most pleasant Hills First built by the Cumani or Inhabitants of Cuma who being taken with the sweetness of the Air Pleasantness of the Place did daily increase in number insomuch that the Cumani that lived at Cuma took a Resolution utterly to Ruin Parthenâ—pe â—east their own City should become desoâ—at But it being Ruined there came so great a Pestilence upon Cuma as carried away Multitudes and having consulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruine of Parthenope and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease they should first restore it whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof and called it Neapolis that is to say the new City The sweetness of the Air delicacy of the Country about is so great that many Emperours and Roman Senators being wearied with the Wars and weightiness of Government did repair to this place that they might live pleasantly Peaceably give themselves to the Study of Letters amongst which were Virgil T. Livius Horatius Claudianus â— a great many more At this very present it is no less frequented by the Nobility and Gentrie of the whole Kingdom who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the Year here so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this I think it is for this Reason that it is commonly called Napoli la Gentile Nor is it to be passed by that it gives name to a Kingdom which is not very Ordinary The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills about it It is very well fortified with strong Walls Castles especially since the dayes of Charles V. who built the Castle of St. Elme and called it la Brilia that is Bridle intending to make it so to the mutinous Humour of that people and it may be alluding to the Armes of the City which is an unbridled Horse the exact emblem of the disposition of that people as witness the innumerable Tumults and revolts both of old and late Years made by them I confess there is no small occasion given them by the severe domination of Strangers over them and it is strange that having so many brave and valourous Men amongst them they should more readily agree to submit their necks to the Yoak of a Stranger than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their own number and Nation It is thought the great emulation which the Spaniards as wisely as industriously keep up to the hight amongst the Princes who are but too numerous for the extent of the Kingdom is the great cause of their unhappiness You may take notice of these particulars within the Town 1ly The Churches of which this City hath a greater number than any other of its bigness in Europe Amongst the rest that of the Annunciata is so Rich that the Rent of the Hospitall thereof is capable to entertain 5000 Poor part whereof are Children found St. Chiana together with the Monastrie of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants is very glorious It was Built by Agnes of Spain Queen to King Robert There are many curious Sepulchres to be seen here of Kings Queens and their Children In the Church of St. Dominico is to be seen the Image of the Crucifix that said to St. Thomas Aquinas bene scripsisti do me Thoma In the Church of the Fratâ— di monte Oliueto the true Pictures of Ferdinand the first and the second and Alfonsus the First both Kings of Naples are so Admirably well done that they seem to be living There is likewise Buried here Alexander ab Alexandro who composed that learned work Genialium dierum The Church called the Domo hath a Chapell composed of Marble Jasper Gold and Brass wherein is keept the Head of St. Gennaro and a little Phiole of his Blood all together fixed which being approached to the Head of the St. â—immediatly begins to boyll dissolves and becomes clear The most ancient of all the Churches is that of St. Paul keept now by the Jesuits It was formerly the Temple of Castor and Pollux 2. The Religious Houses or Convents of which there are so great a number that the Dominicans alone have seventeen The Chartrous convent stands upon the Hill a little beneath the Castle St. Elmâ— ' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of Naples a great part of the Campania Felice the monte Vesuvio all the Bay of Naples the Island of Capreae the Hill Posilipo Puteoli Baii Cuma c. The Cloister of the convent is all of white Marble and in short both the Church and whole Convent are altogether Magnificent 3ly The Hospitals which are about twelve in number amongst which that of the Annunciata and of the Incueabili are the most considerable It is said that they Marry 665. Maids every Year and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats and the greatest 300. 4ly The Castles of which there are 4. The Castle d'Ovo stands within the Sea upon a Rock built of an Oval Figure by Willam III. a Norman The Castle Novâ— was built by Charles the first Brother to St. Lewes but it was Ferdinand of Aragon that fortified it so well It is of a quadrangular figure Built of polished Stone as hard as Marble it hath foure great Bastions and five Towres together with strong ramparts and deep Ditches which the Sea water filleth It is ordinarly keept by a Garison of the Spaniards Consisting of 500. There is a great Magazin of all kinds of Armes Engines for War keept within it In the middle of it stands the Governours Palace
the Ricinus or Palma Christi not only growing wild but out-living that Winter and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of March altho ' it be an Annual Plant with us that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed You may have your Horse at Pozzuolo and hyre a boat to cross the Bay for seeing of the following things And 1. hard by the City the remains of that Superb mole which having been ruined by storme was afterwards Restored by the Emperour Antoninus But at present all that Remains is 12. or 13. great Pillars built of Brick and stones of vast bigness They appear so many towrs over which there are yet remaining but half Ruined some Arches This fashion of Moles seem to be the best because the Pillars and Arches are sufficient to break the water and secure the Ships within and by letting part of the water enter betwixt the Pillars lessens it's violence so that the Pillars suffer not half so much as if they were one continued wall The Emperour Caligulae built a bridge of boats from Pozzuolo to Baii upon which he went in Triumph first on Horsback and then in Chariot but it was of small continuance and served only to be the subject of discourse in future ages Having passed these Pillars Yov put ashore hard by the Lacus Lucrinus which as some said was so called a Lucro from the profit which it yeilded to the Romans by the great abundance of excellent Fish especialie Oysters which were esteemed before any other in Italy Whence Martial to express the Gluttony of a certain Person Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino But there is little water in it now it being almost dryed up by that most Terrible eruption of the Solfatara which happned in the Year 1538. the 29. of September two hours after Sun set the whole countrey about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantitie of fire Stones Pumecks and ashes that near to the monte Barbaro formerly called mons Gaurus it made another Hill near three miles in compass and almost as high as the monte Barbaro The south part of it looks to the Sea the north reaches to the Lacus Avernus on the East it is joined with the foot of Monte Barbaro It is called monte Nuovo These ashes did not only make this Hill but covered likewise a great part of the Country about Killing both beasts and Trees and ruining the Vintage for that Year The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands and many Wells of fresh Water which sprung here and there 2. The Lacus Avernus is about half a miles distance from the Lago lucrino It is compassd about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees that did over shaddow the water and make it look black and likewise did hinder the Sulphureous Vapours that did arise from the water to dissipat so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noysome especially to Fowls that they could not live in it and hence came the Name Avernus At present there is little or no Wood about it nor is the Air any thing more noysome there than in other places about and I have seen Fowles haunting about it and swimming in it It is said to be very deep for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof 3. Upon the west side of the Lake cutt into the Hill is the Antrum Sybillae commonly called Grotta della Sybilla but not truly for the true Cave of Sybillâ— is at Câ—â—â—a This seems rather to have been a common passage from Avernus to Pâ—ia but is now stopt at the one end by the falling down of the Hill above The passage is large and High but altogether dark and therefore You must be guided by Torch light When You are got a good way in upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length that leads into a handsome large Chamber which altho' it be now much ruined appears to have been Richly adorned the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blew and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pavement consisting of many small peeces like unto Mosaick It is a vulgar errour that this was Sybilla's Chamber and that the Temple of Apollo where she received her Responses was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake But it is not so for the Ruins of that Place appeare not to have been any Temple at all But rather a Superb Bathing House such as that of Baia for it has the same order of Windows Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours But to returne to the Grotto upon the left hand as You enter into this Chamber there is another Passage some what higher and larger than the first about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill which leads into another Chamber from which there is a narrow passage which leads into another Chamber and severall other little passages and Roomes which I doe not distinctly remember only this much that in one of them there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water In this Room the heat is so great that it is impossible to continue any time in it without excessive Sweating which makes me to believe that these Rooms were intended for no other use than Bathing and Sweating 4. The Remains or Ruins and first Bagno di Cicerone 2ly Bagno di Tritoli quasi Frittoli qâ—od Corpora ibi fricrentur The Entrie to it is large and high Towards the ground it is cold but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat and the farther one goes in the greater the Heat is At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark and even where the Sea covers it the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull of it 5. Baia So called from Baius the Companion of Vlysses who was Buried there It was a most delicat City but now altogither Ruined and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garison of 30. Souldiers for Securing the Port which is verie safe for Gallies but not deep enough for Ships The whole Bay or Sinus of Baia is exceedingly Pleasant all that Tract betwixt Avernus and the Mons Misenus being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures Many of the Roman Emperours took great pleasure in this place and spared no cost for the beautifying of it Horace who was no ill Judge gives this Testimony of it Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis As You go forward from Baia You will still be finding something worthie the Remarking as 1. The House of Agrippina Nero's Mother who was put to Death here by her Sons Command It is commonly said to be her Sepulchre but it is not true There is yet
Town but especially that of Degli Pisanelli which is one of the highest I remember to have ever seen it stands about the middle of the Town and near by it there is an other which is not finished and the reason they give for it is very apparent that the Builders mistook the perpendicular when one stands near to it it is so very crooked that it appears to be just a falling I had the Curiositie to go as high in the other Towre as I could and rather because I thought I might more easily discover the situation of the Town it's avenues and the Country about but I had much Reason to repent me The ladders for the most part being old and rotten so that I was in continuall apprehension of falling and one slip would have done my turne as well as a hundred I shall advise you rather to take the paines to see a Convent a little without the Town toward the Hills called St. Michaele in Bosco from whence you will have a most Delicate Prospect of the Town and Country about The Town appears in the form of a Ship and the Towre Deglipisanelli may be the maine Mast of it This Convent is one of the most Glorious in Italy the Religious are of the Order di Monte Olivetto there are many other things in the Town worthie the taking notice of which for brevities sake I omit You must not forget to see the Silk-Work which is a most Curious contrivance it is three or four Storie high in the Highest Storie there are Innumerable Pirns of Silk which are all moved by the generall Motion that the Water gives to some Wheeles below there they receive the first Twist in the Storie next to that they receive the second in the lowermost Storie the last which brings it to that form of raw Silk that we commonly see sold. This Place above all others in Italy or in the World is famous for excellent Soap-Balls of which you will do well to provide your self abundantly they will keep in their perfection above 20 Years You may have them of severall Sizes bigger or lesser as you please It is likeways famous for Sassadges which are the best cetainly in tke World I have seen of them of 5 Crownes the Peece There is good Herbarising towards the Hills if your leisure can permit you you may take a Guide along with you Upon these Hills you will likeways find that famous Stone called Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis of which Fortunatus Licâ—tâ—s hath written a particular Book It is very hard and Flintie like but more glistering when it is calcined 48 hours in a reverberatory Fire then set to cooll If you expose it a little to the light and free Air and on the sudden bring it to the dark it shines for a little while as if it were a Red burning Coale but there is a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that growes upon the Top of it whilst it is a Calcineing which is most effectuall for the shining and which if it by lost by any Accident the rest will not be much worth and for saving of this they use ordinarly to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box so sell them to Strangers but this way does not secure them to my certain Experience The best way is to bring the Stone uncalcined and prepare it at home I would have you to see an Apothecarie who is a great Virtuoso especiallie in Plants He is called Jacomo Zanoni speciale da san Biaggio custode de simplici in Bolognia I believe he has Published something of Plants by this time for he shewed me a Number of Brass cutts which were allreadie Graven and told me the intention he had as soon as he could get the rest perfected to cause print them If they may be had I intreat you to procure me one of them you will do well to see his Garden which is very Curious And the best way to ingage all such Men as he is is to have allways a Parcell of rare Seeds with you and to give them some by which means you will find them readie to give you whatever they can spare in like manner I shall advise you to Visit the Booksellers Shops concerning which I must give you this generall advice for finding out Botanick Books that you take paines to look them all over your self for many times the Book-sellers do not know their names You will find here Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis denominantur Item Historia Icones Capsicorum Bartholomaei Ambrosini in 80. Bononiae 1630. also Hyacinthi Ambrosini hortus Studiosorum Novarum Plantarum hactenus non Sâ—ulptarum Historia in 40. Bononiae 1657. But above all I must intreat you to buy me Aldrovandus's works which ate 13 or 14 Tomes in Folio you may buy them in Sheets and have them packt up in your own things for Venice where you will not fail to meet with frequent Occasions of sending them for London I believe they will not cost above 18 or 20 Crowns and if they do I shall be readie to allow it It will not be a miss here if you think fit to go by Land to Modena Parma and Piatzena and returne by the River Po to Ferrara But because I had not the Fortune to see them my self I shall not say any thing of them but returne to Ferrara which is not above half a Days Journie or thereabouts from Bolognia Ferrara is situated in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the Po. It belongs to the Ecclesiastick State and is governed by the Popes Legate The Streets Houses and Places are very handsome fine as also the Churches Religious Houses In the Monasterie of S. Bennet you may see the Sepulchre Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariosto It hath a verie strong and well contrived Cittadale From hence you go to Venice by Water that is in an open Boat by a Canale near to the side of the Po where ye imbarke in a bigger Vessel which goes constantly twice a Week to Venice If the Wind be favourable you will easily accomplish the Voyage in 10 or 12 houres time but if otherways you may be longer and therefore you will do well to make Provision of Victuals to take along with you When you Arrive at Venice it will be needfull to Lodge in a convenient Place of the Town and for that end you will do well to provide your self of a Recommendation to the English Consul from Rome or from Bolognia Giles Jones was Consul in my time and entertained Lodgers himself he was a verie honest Man and did faithfullie send my things to London according to the address I gave him When you are setled in a Lodging It will be time to take a View of the Town for the doing of which and considering it well 3 or 4 Weeks is little enough Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious than to see a
some times slip down 100 fathom or two But this is not the greatest Danger neither for in the French side from the foot of the Hills you have a whole dayes Journey and more through a narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it which at the foot of the Mount Cene one may easilie step over but it grows still bigger as it advances throw the Valley being increased by the water that pours from everie cleft of the Hills and Rocks which are on everie side of the Valley of a prodigious height and most precipitious The current of the River falling sometimes to be on one side of the Valley and sometimes on the other for the most part casts the highway on the contrary side So that verie often you will chance to pass under horrible Rocks that hang over the high way and when the Snow is new fallen and they loaden with it the least noise in the World would bring down a whole Mountain of Snow So that if a Passinger were so caught you might look upon him as buried till the following Spring But I shall advise you to choose a fitter Season and then you will have the Satisfaction of Herborising for the lower parts of the Hills are all covered with Trees many sorts of Plants that do not grow Naturalie in an other Soil I confess my Fortune as to this was ill for after I past the Monte Cene we had a constant deluge of Rain till I came the length of Chamberrie But I must not here forforget to acquaint you with an other particular that had almost escaped me in time of Snow and it is this When you come to the French side supposing the Snow to be frozen and able to bear above there is a singular way of going down the Hill which they call Râ—masser ou se faict Ramasse That is to have a little hurdle of Wood upon which the Passingers is placed with a little bit of Boord behind it upon which the fellow stands that Guides the way and so you come hurling down together at a greater rate than the swiftest Horse in the World is able to go I do not remember to have remarked any thing worthie the troubling you with upon the way from Mont Cene untill you come the length of Momilian except only that the Inhabitants near the Alps are troubled with a certain Disease called Bronchocele which is an outward swelling in their Throats from the Chin downward sometimes to the middle of their Breast so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin but one continued Thing from their Mouth downward It is exceedingly hard and easily affected with Cold the cause of it is believed to be their continual Drinking of Snow-water which runs continually from the Neigbouring Hills Montmelian is a Fortress of great strength upon the Borders of Savoye near to Daufin it is the only considerable place for strength in all Savoye standâ— within 3 leagues of Chamberrie within 5 or 6 of Granoble which is a Parliament Town and the Capital City oâ— Daufine as Chamberrie is of Savoye 〈◊〉 the necessity of your occasions and youâ— Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go straight to Lions it will be very proper to see Granoble Anciently called Gratianopolis from the Emperour Gratian not that he was the first Founder of it but because he enlarged it much and beautified it It lyes in a plain at the foot of the Hill Chelmont and hath the River Isere on the one side Drac which is an impetuous torrent on the other A little beyond the Drac there is a wonderfull Curiositie to be seen that is a Fountain that burneth constantly The Fields about the Town are exceeding Fertile and carrie good Wine but the neighbouring Hills are so high that you may see Snow all the dayes of Summer upon their Tops The Manufactorie of Gloves and dressing of Skins of all sorts is much commended in this City But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be seen is the great Charter-House so called because the General of the Order is obliged to Reside here It is a statelie Monasterie but stands in the wildest place that ever my feet trod upon The Reason they give for choosing this place is because St. Bruno the first Instituter of their Order did pennance here It stands very near the Mount Chelmount being three Miles distant from Granoble by a continual ascent These three leagues will take you eight or nine good Hours riding for in many places it is not safe to ride and you must be forced to walk a foot About the mid-way there stands a little inconsiderable Village of 4 or 5 Houses where it wil be fit to repose a little you will get Bread and Wine and it 's fourtie to one but you may meet with some good peece of sanglier which abounds upon the Hill being it is for the most part covered with Trees When you come within a Mile of the House you meet with a great Port and a Porter to wait upon it who I suppose shuts it in the Night time Within the Port there is a Bridge over a great Cleft within which runs a little Rivolet there is no possibilitie of entering any where on that side but by this Port from which you ascend still to the Monasterie but the way is easie and all within the topâ— of the Hills covered with Oakes Beeches and Firr-Trees within half a Mile of the Monasterie or some less stands their Stables Garnels and other Office-Houses which indeed are statelie and well appointed for there they have lay-brothers of all Trades that serve to their purpose and to this place it is that your Horses are sent back from the Monasterie to be â—eept till your going away and if by chance any of your own or Horse-Furniture had been broken by the way or your Horses lost a Shooe they will be all repaired next Morning without your desiring it They have good store of Hay and have made severall Closes near to the Monasterie which stands on that side of the Hill that hangs to the Southwest and consequently has most of the Sun for making of Hay having felled down all the Wood that grew upon them When you Arrive at the Monasterie you alight from your Horses and then the Porter desires you to stay untill he call the Prefect who presently comes and informs himself of your Names Qualities Country and the Occasion of your coming for most part come out of Devotion and they be but few Strangers that come for Curiositie but however all are welcome which being done he craves you Patience to acquaint the General but he very soon returnes to conduct you to your apartement only you must leave your Swords and Pistols with the Porter at the Gate The Monasterie is verie large and they have a different apartment for most Nations We were carried into one that was very convenient being a