the Welsh And at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluyd that is The Vale of Cluyd This thing is worthy obseruation as a matter memorable both for admiration and antiquitie that in the Parish of Llan-sanan within this Country there is a place compasse cut out of the maine rocke by mans hand in the side of a stony hill wherein there be foure and twentie seats to sit in some lesse some bigger where children and young men comming to seeke their Cattell vse to sit and to haue their sports And at this day they commonly call it Arthurs round Table 7 Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne obtaining Denbigh by the grant of King Edward the first after the conuiction and beheading of Dauid brother of Llewellin for high Treason was the first that fortified it with a wall about not large in circuit but very strong and on the South-side with a faire Castle strengthned with many high Towers But he gaue it ouer and left the worke vnfinished conceiuing griefe as a sorrowfull father that his onely sonne came to vntimely death and was drowned in the Well thereof The fame of this Towne spreads it selfe farre for repute as being reckoned the most beautifull place in all North-Wales and it is of no lesse report for the Castle adiunct vnto it is impregnable for fortification And this strange accident happning there in the yeare 1575 deserues not to be omitted being left as a continuall remembrance of Gods mercifull prouidence and preseruation at that time that whereby reason of great Earth-quakes many people were put into great feare and had much harme done vnto them both within and without their hoâ—ses in the Cities of Yorke Worcester Glocester Bristow Hertford and in other Countries adiacent yet in the Shire-hall of Denbigh the bell was caused to toll twice by the shaking of the earth and no hurt or hindrance at all either done or receiued The gouernment of this Towne is managed by two Aldermen and two Bailiffes who are yearely elected out of twentie fiue burgestes that are their assistants It hath one Recorder one Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants at Mace and by obseruation of the Mathematickes the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 53. and 49. scruples and from the first point in Longitude 16. and 45. 8 This County with them of Flint and Carâ—arâ—on-shires are not diuided by prickes into their seuerall Hundreds according to the rest of this worke the want of their particulars in the Parlament Rowles so causing it which for the good of these three Shires I earnestly sought to haue supplied from the Nomina Villarum in their Sheriffes bookes and had promise of them that might easily haue procured the same But whether a fearelesse jealousie possessed their spirits left the riches of these Shires by reuealing such particulars should be further sought into I cannot say yet this I haue obserued in all my Suruey that where least is to be had the greatest feares are possessed Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could and not as I would that wish both the wealth of them all and their esteeme to be of better regard by those that may doe them good 9 This Shire then is diuided into twelue Hundreds for the readier ordering of businesses necessary to the State of the Country wherein are placed three Market-Townes fit for buying and selling and other negotiations It hath fiue Castles to defend her selfe and to offend her enemies and fiftie seauen Parishes for Gods diuine seruice and worship FLINT-SHIRE CHAPTER XII FLINT-SHIRE stretching out in length broad at one end and narrow at another is not much vnlike in fashion to a wedge a peece of which is cut off by the meeting of Cheshire and Denbigh-shire South-East in distance some foure miles It borders East-ward with part of Cheshire from whence it is guarded in length with the Riuer Dee vnto the North which parteth Worrall and Flint-shire till you come to a little Iland called Helâ—bree Northward it is bounded with the Virgiuian Sea on the West a little Riuer called Cluyd parteth her and Denbigh-shire asunder and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire 2 This Country is nothing mountainous as other parts of Wales are but rising gently all along the Riuer of Dee makes a faire shew and prospect of her selfe to euery eye that beholds her as well vpon the Riuer being in most places thereabouts foure or fiue miles broad as vpon the other side thereof being a part of Cheshire 3 The Aire is healthfull and temperate without any foggie clouds or fennie vapours sauing that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea and the Riuer Dee certaine thicke and smoky-seeming mists which neuerthelesse are not found hurtfull to the Inhabitants who in this part liue long and healthfully 4 The Clime is somewhat colder there then in Cheshire by reason of the Sea and the Riuer that engirts the better part of her by which the Northerne windes being long carried vpon the waters blow the more cold and that side of the Country vpward that lieth shoaring vnto the top hauing neither shelter nor defence receiueth them in their full power and is naturally a Bulwarke from their violence vnto her bordering neighbours that maketh the snow to lie much longer there then on the other side of the Riuer 5 The Soile bringeth forth plentie both of Corne and Grasse as also great store of Cattle but they be little To supply which defect they haue more by much in their numbers then in other places where they be bigger Great store of Fish they take in the Riuer of Dee but little from the Sea by reason they haue no Hauens or Creekes for boats No great store of woods either there or in any other part of Wales are found it hauing beene a generall plague vnto all the Country euer since the head-strong rebellions of their Princes and great men against the Kings of England that in time tooke away the principall helpes of their Innouations by cutting downe their woods whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore beene great plentie Fruits are scarce but milke butter and cheese plentie as also store of hony of the which they make a pleasant wine in colour like in taste not much vnlike vnto Muskadine which they call Mathegliâ— Yea and in the dayes of Giraldus Cambrensis neere the place now called Holy-well was a rich Mine of Siluer in seeking after which men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices a sturdie people against the Romans but now most kinde and gentle towards the English and indeede make much of all strangers except they be crossed and then they are the contrary 7 Places of defence are the Castles of Flint Hawarden vulgarly Harden Treer Rudland Mold Yowley and Hope of which Flint and Harden are the two principall The Castle of Flint famous for the benefit it receiued from two Kings and for the refuge and reliefe
ILAND CHAPTER VII VVIGHT ILAND was in times past named by the Romans Vecta Vectis and Vectesis by the Britaines Guyth and in these dayes vsually called by vs The I le of Wight It belongeth to the Countrie of South-hampton and lyeth out in length ouer against the midst of it South-ward It is encompassed round with the British Seas and seuered from the Maine land that it may seeme to haue beene conjoyned to it and thereof it is thought the Brittish name Guyth hath beene giuen vnto it which betokeneth separation euen as 〈◊〉 being broken off and cut from Italy got the name from Secando which signifieth cutting 2 The forme of this Isle is long and in the middest farre more wide then at eyther end from 〈◊〉 I le in the 〈◊〉 to 〈◊〉 Castle in the West it stretcheth out in length 20. miles and in 〈…〉 Northward to 〈…〉 Southward 12. miles The whole in circumference 〈…〉 3 The ayâ—e is commended both for health and delight whereof the first is witnessed by the 〈◊〉 continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of then bodies before they be decayed and the other for quantitie giues place to no neighbouring Country 4 The ground to say nothing of the Sea which is exceeding full of fish consisteth of soile very fruitfull yet the husbandmans labour deserues to be thankfully remembred by whose paines and industry it doth not onely supply it selfe but affords â—orne to be carryed forth to others The â—and is plenteously stored with Cattle and Graine and breeds euery where store of Conies Hares Patridges and Phesants pleasant for medow pasturage and Parkes so that nothing is wanting that may suffice man The middest yeelds plentie of pasture and forrage for Sheepe whose wooll the Clothiers esteeme the best next vnto that of Leinster and Cotteswold If you cast your eyes towards the North it is all ouer garnished with Meadowes Pastures and Woods If towards the South side it lyeth in a manner wholy bedecked with Cornefields enclosed where at each end the Sea doth so incroachâ—t selfe that it maketh almost two Ilands besides namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh to the West and Bâ—nbridge isle answering it to the East 5 The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle Sea fowle Fish and Corne whereof it hath sufficient Woods are not here very plentifull for that it is onely stored with one little Forrest yet the Country of Hamshire for vicinitie of Site is a friendly neighbour in that behalfe so as it were being tyed together in affinitie they are alwayes readie and propense to adde to each others wants and defects by a mutuall supply 6 The ancient Inhabitants of this Iland were the Belga spoken of in the seuerall Prouinces of Sâ—merset-shire Wilt-shire and Hamshire Such as did then possesse it were called Lords of the Isle of wight till it fell into the Kings hands by Râ—ger Sonne to William Fits Osburne slaine in the warre of Flanders that was driuen into exile And Henry the first King of England gaue it vnto Richard Riduers with the see or Inheritance of the Towne of Christs-Church where at in all other places he built certaine Fortrestes 7 The principall Market-Towne in the Isle is Newport called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is the new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole Countrey is diuided into East Meden and West Meden A Towne well seated and much frequented vnto whose Burgesles his Majestie hath lately granted the choyse of a Major who with his Brethren doe gouerne accordingly It is populous with Inhabitants hauing an entrance into the Isle from the Hauen and a passage for Vessels of small burden vnto the Key Not farre from it is the Castle Caresbrooke whose founder is said to haue beene Whitgar the Saxon and from him called White-Garesburgh but now made shorter for easier pronunciation the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50. 36. minutes and her Longitude in 19. 4. minutes where formerly hath stood a Priory and at Quarre a Nunnery a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries And yet in their merry mood the Inhabitants of this Iland doe boast that they were happier then their neighbour Countries for that they neuer had Monke that euer wore hood Lawyers that cauilled nor Foxes that were craftie 8 It is reported that in the yeare of mans saluation 1176. and twentie-three of King Henry the second that in this Iland it rained a showre of bloud which continued for the space of 2 houres together to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with feare 9 This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature for besides the strength of Artificiall Forts and Blocke-houses wherewith it is well furnished it wants not the assistance of naturall Fences as being enriched with a continuall ridge and range of craggy Cliffes and Rockes and Bankes very dangerous for Saylers as the Needles so called by reason of their sharpnesse The Shingles Mixon Brambles c. 10 Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subiection of the Romaenes whilest he serued as a priuate person vnder Claudius Caesar And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it who granting it vnto Sâ—uffe and Whitgar they joyntly together slew almost all the Brittish Inhabitants being but few of them there remaining in the Towne aforesaid called of his Name Whitgaresburgh Wolpher King of the Merciam reduced this Iland afterwards vnder his obedience and at that time when he became God-father to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons and answered for him at his Baptisme he assigned it ouer vnto him with the Prouince also of the Menuari But when Edelwalch was slaine and Aruandus the petty King of the Iland was made away Coedwalla King of the West-Saxons annexed it to his Dominion and in a tragicall and lamentable Massacre put to the sword almost euery mothers childe of the in-borne Inhabitants The thing that is best worthy note and obseruation is this That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Iland in Christian Religion and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition with the which vnto that time they were obscurely blinded DORCESTER-SHIRE CHAPTER VIII DORCESTER from her ancient people DVROTRIGES is most likely to haue receiued that name by the Britaine 's called DVVRGVVEIR lyeth bounded vpon the North-side with Somerset and Wâ—lt-shire vpon the West with Dâ—â—â—shire and some part with Somerset vpon the East altogether with Hampshire and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas 2 The forme growes wider from the West and spreads her selfe the broadest in the midst where it extends to twentie-foure miles but in length is no lesse then fortie-foure the whole in Circumference about is one hundred and fiftie miles 3 The ayre is good and of an healthfull constitution the soyle is fat affording many commodities and the Countrey most pleasant in her situation for the In-land is watered with many sweet and fresh running Springs
this Countie where Princes of State haue borne the Titles both of Deuonshire and Excester of which Citie there haue beene entituled Dukes the last of whom namely Henry Holland Grand-childe to Iohn Holland halfe-brother to King Richard the second siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth whose Sister was his wife was driuen to such misery as Philip Comineus reporteth that he was seene all torne and bare-footed to beg his liuing in the Low Countries and lastly his body was cast vpon the shore of Kent as if he had perished by shipwracke so vncertaine is Fortune in her endowments and the state of man notwithstanding his great birth 9 Religious houses in this Shire built in deuotion and for Idolatry pulled downe were at Excester Torbay Tanton Tauestoke Kirton Ford Hartland Axmister and Berstable CORNWALL CHAPTER X. CORNWALL as Matthew of Westminster affirmeth is so named partly from the forme and partly from her people for shooting it selfe into the Sea like a Horne which the Britaines call Kerne and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Willia of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corineus cousin to King Brute who in free gift receiued this Countie in reward of his prowesse for wrastling with the Grant Gogmagog and breaking his necke from the Cliffe of Deuer as â—e of Monmouth hath fabuled 2 Touching the temperature of this Countie the ayre thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes by the Billowes that euer worke from oâ—t her enuironing Seas where thorow it becommeth pure and subtill and is made thereby very healthfull but withall so 〈◊〉 and sharâ—e that it is apter to preserue then to recouer health The spring is not so early as in the more Easterne parts yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenceth his slow fostering of the fruits with their most kindly ripening The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late haruest and the Winter by reason of the Seas warme breath maketh the cold milder then else-where Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subiect to stormy blasts whoâ—e violence hath freedome from the open waues to beat vpon the dwellers at Land leauing many times their houses vncouered 3 The Soile for the most part is lifted vp into many hilles parted a sunder with narrow and short vallies and a shallow earth doth couer their out-side which by a Sea-weede called Orewood and a certaine kinde of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and batten as is vncredible But more are the riches that out of those hilles are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinne which Countrey was the first and continueth the best stored in that Merchandize of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Plinie reporteth that the Britaine 's fetched their Tinne in wicker-boats stitched about with Leather And Dâ—octoâ—us 〈◊〉 of Augustus Caesars time writeth that the Britaine 's in this part digged Tinne out of 〈◊〉 ground which by Merchants was carried into Gallia and thence to Narborne as it were to a Maâ— Which howsoeuer the Englis-Saxons neglected yet the Normans made great benefit thereof especially Richard brother to King Henry the third who was Earle of Cornwall and by those Tinne 〈◊〉 became exceedingly rich for the inâ—â—â—sions of the Moâ—res hauing stopped vp the Tinne-Mines 〈◊〉 and them in Germany not discouered before the yeare of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall 〈…〉 the want in all parts of the world This Earle made certaine Tinne-Lawes which with liberties and priuiledges were confirmed by Earle Edmund his sonne And in the dayes of King Edâ—â—â— the third the Common-weale of Tinne-workes from one body was diuided into foure and a 〈…〉 of the Stanâ—â—â—rs appointed then Iudge 4 The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea and had Tamer 〈◊〉 his course but foure miles further to the North betwixt this Countie and Deuonshire it might haue beene rather accounted an Iland then stood with the Mayâ—e Her length is from Launston to the 〈◊〉 containing by measure 60 miles and the broadest part stretching along by the Tamer is fully fortie lâ—sâ—ening thence still lesser like a horne 5 The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans were the Danmonij that spread themselues 〈◊〉 into Deuonshire also by the report of Diodorus Siculus a most courteous and ciuill people and by Mechael their Poet extolled for 〈◊〉 and strength of limâ—â—es nor therein doth he take the libertie that Poets are allowed to adde to the subiect whereof they write but truly reporteth what we see by them performed whom actiuitie surmount many other people When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselues in the best of this Land and forced the Christian Britaines into these rockie parts then did Cornwall abound in Saints vnto whose honor most of the Churches were erected by whose names they are yet knowne and called To speake nothing of Vrsula that Counties Dukes daughter with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints that are now reputed but to trouble the Calendar These Britaine 's in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey and defended themselues that to the raigne of King Athelstant they held out against the Saxons who subduing those Western Parts made Tamar the Bounder betwixt them and his English whose last Earle of the British Bloud was called Candorus 6 But William the Bastard created Robert his halfe-brother by Herlotta their mother the first Earle of the Normans race and Edward the Blacke Prince the ninth from him was by his Father King Edward the third inuested the first Duke of Cornwall which Title euer since hath continued in the Crowne 7 The commodities of this Shire ministred both by Sea and Soile are many and great for besides the abundance of Fish that doe suffice the Inhabitants the Pilchard is taken who in great skuls swarme about the Coast whence being transported to France Spaine and Italie yeeld a yearely reuenew of gaine vnto Cornwall wherein also Copper and Tinne so plentifully grow in the vtmost part of this Promontory that at a low water the veynes thereof lie bare and are seene and what gaine that commoditie begets is vulgarly knowne Neither are these Rockes destitute of Gold nor Siluer yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle-wise and smoothed by Nature her selfe whereof some are as bigge as Walnuts inferiour to the Orient onely in blacknesse and hardnesse Many are the Ports Bayes and Hauens that open into this Shire both safe for arriuage and commodious transport whereof Falmouth is so copious that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselues so that from the tops of their highest Masts they shall not see each other and lie most safely vnder the winds 8 This Countie is fruitfull in Corne Cattle Sea-fish and Fowle all which with other prouisions for pleasures and life are traded thorow twentie-two Market-Townes in this Shire whereof Launston and Bodman are the best from which last being the middle of the Shire the Pole is eleuated to the degree of Latitude 50
reaching aboue an hundred miles in length 4 Siluester Giraldus makes the Riuer Wye to be the Meare betweene England and Wales on the South part called South-Wales whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales vnto Saint Dauids in Meneuia to be an hundred miles and the length from Caerleon vpon Vske in Gwentland to Holly head in Anglesey an hundred miles he might haue said thirtie more 5 About the yeare of Christ 870. our Alfred raigning in England Rodericus Magnus King of Wales did diuide it into three Talaiths Regions or Territories which were called Kingdomes This Rodericus Magnâ—â— gaue Venedotia Gwineth or North-Wales to Anarawd his eldest sonne to Cadeth his second sonne Demetia Deheubarth or South-Wales and to Meruin his third sonne Powys 6 North-Wales had vpon the North side the Irish Sea from the Riuer Dee at Bassingwerke to Aberdyni vpon the West and South-West the Riuer Dyni which diuideth it from South-Wales and in some places from Powysland And on the South and East it is diuided from Powys sometimes with high hils and sometimes with Riuers till it come againe to the Riuer Dee It is generally full of high mountaines craggie rockes great woods and deepe vallies many straight dangerous places deepe and swift Riuers 7 This Land was of old time diuided into foure parts Môn Aruon Meryonyth and y Beruedâ—wlan or the middle Country and each of these were againe diuided into seuerall Cantrenes and they subdiuided into their Cymeden or Commots wherein we follow that diuision which was in the time of Llewylyn ap Gruffin last Prince of Wales according to a Copie imparted to me by a worshipfull friend and learned Antiquarie as seeming farre more exact then that of Doctor Powels 8 Anglesey the chiefest is separated from the maine Land with the Riuer 〈◊〉 wherein at Aberfraw was the Princes Court now a meane village In this Iland is a faire Towne called Beaumarish and a common passage to Ireland at Caergyâ—i in English Holly-head 9 Aruon the second part of North-Wales is now called Carnaruonshire the strongest Country within that Principalitie giuing place to none for fertilitie of the ground of for plentie of Wood-Castle Fish and Fowle c. Here are the Townes of Caâ—â—naruon in old time called Caer-Segonâ— and Bangor the Bishops See with diuers other ancient Castles and places of memory This portion hath on the North the Sea and Moenaâ— vpon the East and South-east the Riuer 〈◊〉 which diuideth it from Denbigh-shire and on the South-west is separated from Merioneth by Riuers Mountaines and Meares 10 Merioneth was the third part of Gwyneth and keepeth the name till this day is full of hilles and much noted for the resort of people that repaire thither to take Hertings Vpon the North it hath Aruon and Denbigh-land vpon the South Caerdigan-shire and vpon the East Montgomery-shire heretofore part of Powys In this Countie standeth the Towne of Harleth and a great Lake called Ilyn Tegyd This Country is likewise full of Cattle Fowle and Fish and hath in it great store of redde Deere and Roes but there is much scarcitie of Corne. 11 Y Beruedhwlad was the fourth part of Gwyneth and may be called in English The middle Country is inclosed with hilles on the East West and South-parts and with the Sea Northward It is plentifull of Cattle Fish and Fowle as also of Corne and is diuided in the middest with the Riuer Clwyd to which run a number of other Riuers from the hilles In this part is Dyffryn Clwyd the fairest Valley within Wales containing eighteene miles in length and seauen in breadth In which is the Towne and Castle of Ruthlan neere vnto the Sea and not farre thence S. Assaph an Episcopall seat betweene the Riuers Clwyd and Elwy Herein stands the faire Towne and goodly Castle of Denbigh situated vpon a Rocke the greatest Market-Towne of North-Wales and from thence is seene the Towne and Castle of Ruthyn faire for prospect and fruitfull for site This part of North-Wales hath the Sea vpon the North d ee toward the East Aruon the Riuer Conwey and Merionyth vpon the West and the Country then called Powys vpon the South And these were the Meares and bounds of the foure parts of Venedotia Gwyneth or North-Wales 12 The second Talaith or Kingdome was Mathraual or Powys To this belonged the Country of Powys and the Land betweene Wye and Seuerne It had South-Wales vpon the South and West with the Riuers Wye and Tywy and other Meares vpon the North Gwyneth and vpon the East the Marches of England from Chester to Wye a little aboue Hereford This part was diuided into Powis Vadoc Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne and Powis Wenwynwyn In Powis Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefeild and the Castle of Chirke in Chirkeland the Castle likewise of Whittington and Lordship of Oswestrie with others 13 The second part of Powis or the Territory belonging to Mathraual is Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne or Gwy and Hauren whereof some is at this day in Montgomery-shire some in Radnor-shire and some in Brecknock-shire and among sundry other hath these Townes and Castles following Montgomery The Castle of Clyn The Towne of Knighton The Castle of Cymaron Presteyn The Towne and Castle of Radnor called in Welsh Maesyuet which is at this day the Shire-Towne The Towne of Kinton and the Castle of Huntingdon 14 The third part belonging to Mathranal chiefe seat of Powys after the Welsh were driuen from Pengwern or Shrewsburie was Powys Wenwynwyn a Country full of Woods Hilles and Riuers hauing in it among others the Townes of Welsh-Poole Newtowne Machinhaeth Arustly was anciently in this part but afterward it came to the Princes of Gwyneth This may suffice for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powys 15 It now remaineth that we describe the last kingdome of Wales called Demetia Deheubarth or the Talaith of Dineuowr which although it was the greatest yet was it not the best because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans and for that also diuers parts thereof would not obey their Prince as in Gwent and in Morganwâ— 16 This was diuided into sixe parts of which Caerdigan was the first and is a Champion Countrey without much Wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North part of Powys vpon the East Carmarden-shire and Pembroke-shire with the Riuer Tiuâ— vpon the South and vpon the West the Irish Sea In this part is the Towne of Caerdigan vpon Tiuâ— not farre from the Sea as also the Towne of Aberstwyth vpon the Riuer Istwyth and Lhanbadarneuowr which in times past was a great Sanctuary there were also many Castles as of Stratneyrie of Walter of Lhanrysted of Dyuerâ—h and of Aber Roydell c. 17 The second part was called Dyuet and at this day Penbroke-shire It hath vpon the North and West the Irish Sea vpon the East Carmarden-shire and vpon the South Seuerne There are in it sundry Townes and Hauens among others these
Penbroke Tenby Hereford West with the goodly and many branched Hauen of Milford called in Welsh Aberdangledhett S. Dauids or Meneuiâ— which is the chiefest See in Wales Fiscard called Aberwayn and Newport named Tresdreth 18 The third part was Caermarden-shire which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales as that which is full of high Mountaines great Woods and faire Riuers 19 The fourth called Morganwe now Glamorgan-shire hath on the South the Seuerne Sea which diuideth it from Deuonshire and Cornewall vpon the West and North-west Carmarden-shire vpon the North-east Breckneck-shire and vpon the East Monmouth-shire 20 The fift now called Gwent and in Monmouth-shire hath in it the ancient Citie of Caerlbeon vpon Vske There are also diuers Townes and Castles Chepstow Glynstrygul Râ—s Tynterne vpon the Riuer Wye c. This is a faire and fertile Country It hath on the West Glamorgan and Brecknock-shires vpon the North Hereford-shire vpon the East Glocester-shire with the Riuer Wye and the Riuer Seuerne vpon the South and South-east 21 The last is Brecknock-shire for the most part full of Mountaines Woods and Riuers This Country is both great and large being full of faire plaines and vallyes for Corne it hath plentie of the thicke Woods Forrests and Parkes It is full also of cleere and deepe Riuers of which Seuerne is the chiefest although there be other faire Riuers as Vske and the like 22 Thus farre concerning the ancient Welsh diuision by Talaiths but the present diuision distributeth them more compendiously into two Countries and twelue Shires enacted so by Parlament vnder King Henry the eight The Countries are North-Wales and South-Wales which haue shared and as it were deuoured betweene them all Powysland each of which Countries containes sixe Shires North-Wales Anglesey Caâ—â—â—aruon Merionyth Denbigh Flint Montgomery South-Wales Caerdigan Pembroke Carmarden Glamorgan Brecknocks Radnâ—r PEMBROKE-SHIRE CHAPTER II. PEMBROKE-SHIRE the furthest Promontory of all West-Wales lieth parted on the North from Cardigan-shire with the Riuers Tyâ—y and Keach and on the East is confronted by Caermarden-shire the South and West shooting farre into the Irish Seas is with the same altogether washed 2 The forme thereof is longer then it is broad for from S 〈◊〉 South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North are twentie-sixe miles the Easterne Landenie to S. Dauids point in the West are twentie miles the whole in circumference is nintie three miles 3 The Aire is passing temperate by the report of Giraldus who confirmeth his reason from the site of Ireland against which it butteth and so neere adioyned that King Rufus thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Shippes ouer the Sea whereby he might passe to Ireland on foot 4 Anciently it was possessed by the Demetia further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires as in that County hath beene said and in the Saxons Conquest and Heptarchte by the Britaine 's forced into those parts for refuge whither Henry the first and third of the Normans King sent certaine Flemings whose Country was ouer-whelmed with the breaking 〈◊〉 of the Seas to inhabite the maritine Tract called Rosse lying West vpon the Riuer Dougledye Thess Dutchmen saith Giraldus were a strong and stout Nation inured to Warres and accustomed to seeke gaine by Clothing Traffique and Tillage and euer readie for the Field to fight it out adding withall that they were most loyall to the English and most faithfull to the English-men Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus Many a time did King William Rufus assaile the Welsh but euer in vaine which is to be wondred at considering his other fortunate successe But saith he it may be the vneuennesse of the ground and sharpnesse of the aire that maintained their courage and impeached his valour which to redresse King Henry his brother found meanes for those Flemings who in regard of his mothers kindred by the fathers side sorely pestred and endammaged the English he sent into Wales both to purge and disburden his owne Kingdome and to quell and keepe backe the courage of his enemies These men here seated deceiued not his expectation but so carried themselues in his quarrell that they seldome communicated with their neighbours so that to this day they speake not the Language and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales 5 The commodities of this Shire are Corne Cattle Sea-Fish and Fowle and in Giraldus his dayes of saleable Wines the Hauens being so commodious for Ships arriuage such is that at Tenby and Milford an Hauen of such capacitie that sixteene Creekes fiue Bayes and thirteene Roades knowne all by seuerall names are therein contained where Henry of Richmond of most happie memory arriued with signall hopes of Englands freedome from vnder the gouernment of an vsurping Tyrant 6 Neere vnto this is Pembroke the Shire-Towne seated more ancient in shew then it is in yeares and more houses without Inhabitants then I saw in any one Citie thorowout my suruey It is walled long-wise and them but indifferent for repaire containing in circuit eight hundred and fourescore pases hauing three Gates of passage and at the West end a large Castle and locked-causey that leads ouer the water to the decayed Priory of Monton The site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude as Mercator doth measure 14. and 55. minutes and the eleuation from the North-pole in the degree of Latitude 52. 7 A Citie as barren is old Saint Dauids neither clad with Woods nor garnished with Riuers nor beautified with Fields nor adorned vvith Meadowes but lieth alwayes open both to winde and stormes Yet hath it beene a Nursery to holy men for herein liued Calphâ—â—rnius a Britaine Priest whose wife was Concha sister to Saint Martin and both of them the parents of Saint Patricke the Apostle of Ireland Deus a most religious Bishop made this an Archiepiscopall See remoued from Isâ—a Legionum This the Britaines call Tuy Dewy the house of Deui we Saint Dauids a Citie with few Inhabitants yet hath it a faire Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Andrew and Dauid in the middest of whose Quire lieth intombed Edmund Earle of Richmond father to King Henry the seuenth whose Monument as the Prebends told me spared their Church from other defacements when all went downe vnder the hammers of King Henry the eight About this is a faire wall and the Bishops Palace all of free stone a goodly house I assure you and of great receit whose vncouered tops cause the curious workes in the walles daily to weepe and them to feare their downefall ere long 8 But Monton the Priorie and S. Dogmels places of deuout pietie erected in this Countie found not the like fauour when the commission of their dissolutions came downe against them and the axes of destruction cut downe the props of their walles RADNOR-SHIRE CHAPTER III. RADNOR-SHIRE lieth bordered vpon the North with the County Monmouth vpon the East toucheth Shropshire and Herefordshire the Riuers Clarwen and Wye diuide it from Breknock in the
the longest against the Romanes and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage before the dayes of King Edward the first since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second and discontented by King Henry the fourth in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin that intruded vpon his demaines quarrelled with the King and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride policie and obstinacie for a long time vntill his consederates followers and fauorates and his owne courage credit and maintenance were brought so low by that powerfull King that in the end he perished for very want of food 5 Their Townes are not many neither those that they haue of any stately buildings whereof Bala â—olgethe and Harlech are the Markeâ—◠〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie in the Welsh 〈◊〉 in English Piâ—â—â—le-meane a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 beâ—â—oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wiâ—des she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water as the Inhabitants beleeue more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon vsually taken in Dee is neuer found in that Poole and the fish called Guimad bred in that Meart neuer is seene in the Riuer Dee South thence neere Dolgelhr in a lower hill a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof by report this onely we learned that it was called Caddoryrita Dren according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill 6 Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth bleake enough and barren but onely for Fowle and Fish houses not many neither curiously built wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye an English Knight who for the delight he tooke in that game remoued his abode from a farre better soyle Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle mounted vpon a hill and with a double Bulwarke walled about commanding the Sea and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides Vpon whose shore as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie abundance of Herrings are caught for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare by many people from diuers Countries DENBIGH-SHIRE CHAPTER XI DENBIGH-SHIRE called in Welsh Sire Denbigh retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee on the North first the Sea for a small space and then Plint-shire encompasseth it on the West Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire on the East Cheshire and Shrop-shire and on the South Mountgomery-shire 2 The forme thereof is long growing wider still towards the North-west and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West one and thirtie miles and in bredth from North to South seauenteene miles in the whole circuit and circumference one hundred and fourteene miles 3 The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant yet bleake enough as exposed to the windes on all sides and the high hilles wherewith it is in many places enuitoned long retaining the congealed snow The tops whereof in the Summer time are the haruest-mens Almanacks by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings and foreshew a faire day ensuing 4 The soyle is but barren towards the West part yet the middle where it lieth flat in a valley is most fertile The East side when it is once past the valley findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings The West part is but here and there inhabited and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles yet the leanesse of the soyle where the hils settle any thing flatting hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes with a broad kinde of spade pile them vp artificially on heapes and fire them so as being turned into ashes and throwne vpon the ground so pared they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne in such plentie as is hardly to be beleeued 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices who being also named Ordeâ—ices or Ordoâ—icae a puissant and couragious people by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman and also of English dominion They were not subdued by the Romans before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought vnder the command of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie and the strength of the Country 6 The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat Sheepe and Goats The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne especially Eastward on this side betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee but the more Westerly part is heathy and altogether barren The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles in a beautifull and pleasant Vale reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North and fiue miles or thereabouts in bredth and lieth open onely toward the Sea It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles amongst which the highest is Moâ—llenlly on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier and a little fountaine of cleare water From these hilles the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale and from the very spring-head increased with beckes and brookes doth part it in twaine running thorow the midst of it whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd for Mariamâ—s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of
who trauelled through these Ilands reporteth are three Tombes hauing the seuerall Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland of Ireland and of Norway 19 Among these Westerne Ilands the Hebrides Skie Mula Ila and Arran are the greatest All of them plentifull of Corne Woods Salmons and Fâ—errings as others of Conies Deere Horses and Sheepe where in some they are wilde and in others without any owners but the people vnciuill and lacking Religion they rather liue rudely in state of necessitie then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them and with a sufferable ease ignorant of ambition enioy those contentments which some others though they no great summe doe more laboriously attaine vnto by the precepts of Philosopie for feeding themselues with competencie without any excesse they returne all the ouer-plus vnto their Lords as doe the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona but alas Religion not knowne among them these penurious vertues are rather the curses of Cham then the followings of Christ who forbids vs to be too carefull for the morrow 20 The Iles of Orkenay vpon the North of Scotland lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea are about three and thirtie in number whereof thirteene are inhabited and the other replenished with Cattle in these are no venomous Serpents nor other vgly vermin the aire sharpe and healthfull and the soile apt to beare onely Oats and Barley but not a sticke of wood among these Pomonia is the greatest accounted and called the Maine-land affording sixe Minerals of Lead and Tinne and in her chiefe Towne a Bishops See wherein are seated twelue Parish-Churches one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country 21 Of all the Romanes Iulius Agricola first discouered the Orkenays yea and subdued them if we will beleeue Tacitus but Pomponius Mela that wrote thirtie yeares before him doth mention them and Iuuenal in Hadrians time after him tels vs the Romanes had won them and lastly Claudian nameth Saxons that were slaine in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus Saxon Commanders who in their rouing Pinnaces wasted the Orknays These Ilands Donald Bane the vsurper of the Scotish Crowne gaue to the King of Norway for his assistance and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixtie yeares vntill that Alexander the third King of Scotland with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth King of Norway which afterward King Haquin confirmed vnto King Robert Bruce but lastly Christian the first King of Norway and Denmarke vtterly renounced all his right to those Ilands when he gaue his daughter in marriage vnto King Iames the third which deed was further ratified by the Pope who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdomes with his owne key IRELAND DESCRIBED CHAPTER I. THe Traditions of time haue deliuered vnto vs diuers names whereby this famous Iland is recorded to haue beene called yet none of more faire probabilitie then that of Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian by whom it is named Ierna by Iuuenal and Mela called Iuuerna by Diodorus Siculus Iris by Martian of Heraclea Ioyepnia by Eustachius Oyernia and Bernia by the natiue Inhabitants Eryn by the Britaines Yuerdon the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads Tiruolas Totidanan and Banno and by the English Ireland But from whence these diuersities were deriued arise many opinions Doubtlesse it is that Hibernia Iuuerna and Ouernia came from Ierna spoken of by Oâ—pheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Iuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the terme that the Inhabitants now vse From this Erin therefore a word proper to the Nation the originall is most likely to be deduced 2 Some deriue Hiberâ—â—a from Hiberno tempore that is from the winter season some from Hiberus a Spaniard some from a Duke named Irnalph some againe from the ancient Riuer Iberus and 〈◊〉 from Hiere an Irish word which signifieth the west or a westerne coast whence Erin may also seeme to setch the deriuation for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe As also for that the Riuer running in the most remote west-part of this Iland is in Ptolemy called Iernus like as the furthest Westerne Promontory in Spaine from whence our Irish men came is by Strabo called Ierne and the Riuer next vnto it by Mela Ierna yea and Spaine it selfe for the Westerne situation is called Hesperia the West-Cape of Africke Hesperium and in Germany Westrich and Westphaleâ— from their position haue their names Postelius a man that rather followed his owne fancy then the iudgement of others fetcheth the originall of Ireland from the Hebrewes as if Irin should be as much as Iurin that is the Iewes land which opinion I hold no better then those that would haue it from the Winter-like stormes although vpon euery winde the aire is cold there 3 Festus Auienus in that little booke which he entituled Ora maritima calleth Ireland Sacram Insulam that is the holy Iland to which opinion the people are soone drawne by reason of the many Saints that the Iland is said to produce and the blessed soile that affords no venomous creatures to retaine life It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia for her great antiquitie and of latter times by â—sidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselues came into Britaine 4 For largenesse and circuit in times past this Iland challenged the third place in ranke of all the Iles of the then knowne world for thus haue Geographers left vs that the Indian Taprobaâ— for greatnesse was the first the I le of Britaine the next and this of Ireland the third and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britaine But how soeuer Strabo hath extended the bredth as broad as the length and others haue formed it in shape like an egge yet latter dimensions haue found it farre otherwise twice longer then broad and may be compared to the forelegge of a Beare if the Siâ—ile breed no offence Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channell betwixt England and this Ireland the West is washed with the Westerne Ocean the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian and the South with the Vergiuian Sea 5 The aire of this Iland is delectable and wholesome though neither so cleere nor subâ—â—â— of England which as Mela saith is nothing fauourable for the ripening of Corâ—e but so gratefull to the ground that it causeth grasse to grow abundâ—ntly not onely fresh and long but withall very sweet for all Cattle and in Winter is more subiect to winde then snow and that I may vse the words of Giraldus It is of all Countries most temperate neither forcing the Inhabitants to seeke shade from the frying heat of Cancer nor the chilling cold of Capricorne to driue them to the fire but at all seasons most milde betwixt a sufferable cold and gentle warme heat 6 The soile
cast Don Iohn D' Aquila with 8. thousand Spaniards vpon confidence of the excommunications of Pius the fift Gregory the thirteenth Clement the eight Popes all of them discharging their curses like vnto thunder bolts against Queene Elizabeth of blessed memory landed neere vnto Kinsale presuming that the rebellions of Tyrone had turned the hearts of the Irish for Rome Sir Charles Blunt Lord Montioy in the depth of Winter and with his tired Souldiers so dâ—â—nted their Spanish hearts that with one victory he repressed their bragging boldnesse and recouered the Irish that were ready to reuolt 10 God hath oftentimes shewed his tender loue and affection to this people in laying his fatherly chastisements and afflictions vpon them sometimes by windes sometimes by famine and dearth and sometimes againe by opening his hand of plenty into their laps to conuert them to himselfe and to diuert their hearts from superstitions In the yeare 1330 about the Feast of Saint Iohn 〈◊〉 there be an such a deaâ—th of Coâ—â—e in this Country by the abundance of raine and the inundation of waters which continued vntill Michaelmas following that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for 〈…〉 a Cranoc of Oats for eight shillings a Cranoc of Pease Beanes and Barley for as much 〈◊〉 windâ—s the same yeare were so mightie that many were hurt and many slaine outright by the fall of houses that was forced by the violence of the same The like whereof were neuer seene in Ireland In the yeare 1317 there was such a dearth of Corne and other victuals that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for twentie three shillings And many Housholders that before time had sustained and 〈◊〉 a great number were this yeare driuen to beg and many famished In the time of which â—â—mine the mercy of God so disposed that vpon the 27. day of Iune in the yeare 1331 there came to land such a mightie multitude of great Sea-fishes that is Thursheds such as in many ages past had neuer beene seene that the people were much comforted in this distresse and receiued great reliefe and sustenance by the same 11 Places of Relâ—gion in this Country were the two Abbies at Yoghall called the North-Abbey and South-Abbey The two Abbies at Limericke S. Francis Abbey and S Dominicke Abbey The two Abbies at Corke the Abbey of the I le and S. Frances Abbey and the famous Abbey in times past of the holy Crosse which hath had many priuiledges and liberties granted vnto it in honour of a peece of Christs Crosse that was as they say sometimes preserued there Thus were Christians perswaded in ancient times And it is a wonder in what Troopes and Assemblies people doe euen yet conflow thither vpon deuotion as vnto a place of holinesse and sanctâ—â—e so firmely are they settled in the Religion of their Fore-fathers which hath beene increased beyond all measure by the negligent care of their Teachers who should instruct their ignorance and labour to reduce them from the errors they perseuere in LEINSTER CHAPTER III. THis Country the Natiues call Leighnigh the Britaines Lein in Latine Lagenia in the ancient liues of the Saints Lagen and in English Leinster It lieth Eastward along Hibernicum Sea on Connaught side Westward it is bounded with the Riuer Shanon the North with the Territorie of Louth and the South with part of the Prouince of Mounster This Country butteth vpon England as Mounster and Connaught doe vpon Spaine 2 The forme thereof is triangle and sides not much vnequall from her South-East vnto the West-point about 80. miles from thence to her North-West about 70. miles and her East Coast along the Irish Sea-shore eightie miles the circumference vpon two hundred and seauentie miles 3 The aire is cleare and gentle mixt with a temperate disposition yeelding neither extremitie of heat or cold according to the seasonable times of the yeare and the naturall condition of the Continent The soile is generally fruitfull plentifull both in fish and flesh and in other victuals as butter cheese and mile It is fertile in Corne Cattle and pasture grounds and would be much more if the husbandman did but apply his industry to which he is inuited by the commodiousnesse of the Country It is well watered with Riuers and for the most part well woodded except the Countie of Diuelin which complaines much of that want being so destitute of wood that they are compelled to vse a clammie kinde of fat turffe for their fuell or Sea-coale brought out of England 4 The Inhabitants of these parts in Ptolemies dayes were the Brigantes Menaâ—â—â— Cauci and Blain from which Blani may seeme to be deriued and contracted the latter and moderne names of this Country Lein Leighnigh and Leinster The Menaâ—â—â— as the name doth after a sort imply came from the Menapians a Nation in Low Germany that dwelt by the Sea-Coasts These Brigantes caâ—â—ed also Birgantes Florianus del Campo a Spaniard labours to fetch from the Brigants of his owne Country of whom an ancient Citie in Spaine called Brigantia tooke the name But they may seeme rather to deriue their denomination from the Riuer Birgus about which they inhabited for to this the very name is almost sufficient to perswade vs. 5 The commodities of this Country doe chiefly consist in Cattle Sea-fowle and Fish It breeds many excellent good horses called Irish Hobbies which haue not the same pace that other horses haue in their course but a soft and round amble setting very easily 6 This Country hath in it three Riuers of note termed in old time the three sisters Shour Neor and Barraeo which issue out of the huge Mountaine called by Giraldus Bladina Montes as out of their mothers wombe and from their rising tops descending with a downefall into seuerall Channels before they emptie themselues into the Ocean ioyne hand in hand all together in a mutuall league and combination 7 Places very dangerous for shipping are certaine fiats and shallowes in the Sea that lie ouer against Holy-point which the Marriners call the Grounds Also the shelues of sand that lie a great way in length opposite to Newcastle which ouer-looketh them into the Sea from the top of an high hill adioyning 8 In this Prouince are placed many faire and wealthy Townes as Kilkenny which for a Burrough-Towne excels all the midland Burroughs in this Iland Kildare which is adorned with an Episcopall See and much graced in the first infancy of the Irish Church by reason of Saint Bridgid a venerable Virgin had in great account and estimation for her virginitie and deuotion as who was the Disciple of S. Patricke of so great fame renowne and antiquite Also Weisford a name giuen vnto it by these Germans whom the Irish terme Oustmans a Towne though inferiour to some yet as memorable as any for that it became the first Colony of the English and did first submit it selfe vnto their protection being assaulted by Fitz Stephen a Captaine worthily made famous for his valour and
magnanimitie 9 But the Citie which fame may iustly celebrate alone beyond all the Cities or Townes in Ireland is that which we call Diuelin Ptoleâ—ie Eblana the Latinists Dublinium and Dublinia the West-Britaines Dinas Dulm the English-Saxons in times past Duplin and the Irish Balacleigh that is the Towne vpon hurdles for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish when it first began to be builded the foundation was laid vpon hurdles 10 That it is ancient is perswaded by the authoritie of Ptolâ—mie That it was grieuously rent and dismembred in the tamultuous warres of the Danes and brought afterwards vnder the subâ—ection of Eadgar King of England which his Charter also confirmeth wherein he calleth it the noble Citie of Ireland is written by Saxo Grammaticus That it was built by Harold of Norway which may seeme to be Harold Harâ—ager when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awfull obedience vnto him we reade in the life of Griffith ap Sâ—â—an Prince of Wales At length it yeelded vnto the valour and protection of the English at their first arriuall into Ireland by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the Dâ—blinians as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate and giuen approued testimony of her faith and loyaltie to the Crowne of England in the times of any tumultuous streights and commotions 11 This is the royall seat of Ireland strong in her munition beautifull in her buildings and for the quantitie matchable to many other Cities frequent for trafficke and intercourse of Merchants In the East Suburbs Henry the second King of England as Hâ—ueden reporteth caused a royall Pallace to be erected and Henry Loundres Archbishop of Diuelin built a Store-house about the yeare of Christ 1220. Not farre from it is the beautifull Colledge consecrated vnto the name of the holy Trinitie which Queene Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The Church of S. Patricke being much enlarged by King Iohn was by Iohn Comin Archbishop of Dublin borne at Euesham in England first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the yeare 1191. It doth at this day maintaine a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Archdeacons and twentie two Prebendaries This Citie in times past for the due administration of Ciuill Gouernment had a Prouost for the chiefe Magistrate But in the yeare of mans redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them libertie to chuse euery yeare a Maior and two Bailistes and that the Maior should haue a gilt sword carried before him for euer And King Edward the sixt to heape more honour vpon this place changed the two Bailiffes afterwards into Sheriffes so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serue to make the estate of a Citie most flourishing 12 As the people of this County doe about the neighbouring parts of Diuelin come neerest vnto the ciuill conditions and orderly subiection of the English so in places farther off they are more tumultuous being at deadly feuds amongst themselues committing oft times Man-slaughter one vpon another and working their owne mischiefes by mutuall wrongs for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Townes in the same Prouince in the yeare 1294. And in the yeare 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a warre in the winter season setting on fire the Towne of Wykâ—â—lo Rathdon and others working their owne plague and punishment by burning vp their sustenance and losing their Castle by depredation 13 Matter of obseruation and no lesse admiration among them is the Giants dance commonly so called and so much talked of which Merlin is said by Art Magicke to haue translated out of this Territorie vnto Salisburie Plaine which how true it is I leaue to the vaine beleeuers of miracles and to the credulous obseruers of antiquitie 14 In this County haue beene erected many famous Monasteries Abbies and religious houses consecrated to deuout and holy purposes As the Monastery of Saint Maries of Oustmanby â—ounded for preaching Friers vnto which of late dayes the Iudiciall Courts of the Kingdome haue beene translated also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin builded and endowed in times past with many large priuiledges and reuenewes of King Henry the second in expiation of the murther of Thomas Arch-bishop of Canterbury Likewise Tiutern Monastery or the notable Abbey which William Marshall Earle of Pembrooke founded and called De roto for that he had vowed to God being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest to erect an Abbey wheresoeuer he came to land and being after shipwracke cast vpon land in this place he made performance of his vow accordingly THE PROVINCE OF CONNAVGHT CHAPTER IIII. THis Prouince named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia by the Irish Conaughty and by English-men Connaught is bounded East-ward with part of the County of Leinster North-ward with part of Vlster West-ward with the West-maine Ocean and on the South it is confined with a part of the Prouince of Mounster closed in with the Riuer Sbennon and butting against the Kingdome of Spaine 2 The forme thereof is long and towards the North and South ends thinne and narrow but as it growes towards the middle from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger extending in length from the Riuer Shennon in her South to Enis Kelling in her North 126. miles and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East to Barragh-Bay in her West containing about fourescore miles The whole in circuit and compasse is aboue foure hundred miles 3 The aire is not altogether so pure and cleare as in the other Prouinces of Ireland by reason of certaine moist places couered ouer with grasse which of their softnesse are vsually termed Boghes both dangerous and full of vaporous and foggie mists 4 This County as it is diuided into seuerall portions so is euery portion seuerally commended for the soile according to the seasonable times of the yeare Twomond or the County Clare is said to be a Country so conueniently situated that either from the Sea or Soile there can be nothin wisht for more then what it doth naturally afford of it selfe were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest Galway is a land very thankfull to the painefull husbandman and no lesse commodious and profitable to the Shepheard Maio in the Roman Prouinciall called Mageo is replenished both with pleasure and fertility abundantly rich in Cattle Deere Hawkes and plenty of Hony Slego coasting vpon the Sea is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle Le-Trim a place rising vp throughout with hilles is so full of ranke grasse and forrage that as Solinus reporteth if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grasing their fulnesse would endanger them And Roscoâ—en is a Territory for the most part plaine and fruitfull feeding many Heards
abode the Iron-side in fight wherein so much bloud of the English was spilt that Canutus their King in remorse conscience built a Church in the place to pacifie God for the sinnes of his people But when the Normans had got the garland of the whole many of their Nobles there seated themselues whose posterities since both there and else-where are spread further abroad in the Realme 6 The Commodities that this Shire yeeldeth are many and great as of Woods Corne Cattle Fish Forests and Saffron which last groweth with such gaine and increase vpon her North parts that from a split cloue much like vnto Garlicke a white blewish Flower shortly springeth from whence fillets of Saffron are gathered before the Sunne and dryed are sold as spice with great gaine From the Ilands Canuey Mersey Horsey Northly Osey Wallot and Foulnesse great store of Fish and Fowle are daily gotten and so from their Cattle haue they continuall increase which men and boyes milke as well the Ewe as the Kine whereof they make great and thicke Cheese sold abroad in the Land and much thereof transported into other Countries Their Oysters which we call Walfleete the best in esteeme and are thought from Paâ—â—â—e to haue beene serued in the Romans Kitchins But least we should exceed measure in commending or the people repose their trust in the soyle behold what God can doe to frustrate both in a moment and that by his meanest creatures for in our age and remembrance the yeare of Christ 1581. an Army of Mice so ouer ranne the Marshes in Dengey Hundred neere vnto South-minster in this Countie that they shore the grasse to the very roots and so tainted the same with their venemous teeth that a great Murraine fell vpon the Cattle which grased thereon to the great losse of their owners 7 The chiefest Citie for account at this day in this Shire is Colchester built by Coilus the British Prince one hundred twentie-foure yeares after the birth of our Sauiour Christi if he of Moâ—mouth say true wherein his sonne Lucius Helena and Constantine the first Christian King Empresse and Emperour in the world were borne which made Necham for Consiantine to sing as he did From Colchester there rose a Starre The Rayes whereof gaue glorious light Throughout the world in climates farre Great Constantine Romes Emperour bright And the Romanes to the great honour of Helena inscribed her Piâ—ssima Venerabilis Augusta But of these we shall be occasioned to speake more hereafter This Citie is situated vpon the South of the Riuer Coln from whence it hath the name and is walled about raised vpon a high Trench of earth though now much decayed hauing six gates of entrance and three posternes in the West wall besides nine Watch-Towers for defence and containeth in compasse 1980 paces wherein stand eight faire Churches and two other without the walls for Gods diuine seruice S Tenants and the Blacke Fryers decayed in the Suburbs Mary Magdalins the Nunnery S Iohns and the Cruched Fryers all suppressed within towards the East is mounted an old Castle and elder ruines vpon a trench containing two Acres of ground whereas yet may be seene the prouident care they had against all ensuing assaults The trade of this Towne standeth chiefly in making of Cloth and Baies with Saies and other like Stuffes daily inuented and is gouerned by two Bailiffes twelue Aldermen all wearing Scarlet a Recorder a Towne-Clerke and foure Sergeants at Mace Whose position for Latitude is in the degree 52. 14. minutes and for Longitude in the degree 21. and 50. minutes 8 Places of antiquitie and memorable note in this Countie I obserue the most famous to be Camalodumum by vs Maldon which was the Royall Seat of Cunobelâ—â— King of the Trinoâ—antes as by his money therein minted appeareth about the time of our Sauiours birth which Citie afterwards Claudius wonne from the Britaines and therein placed a Colony of Souldiers which were called Victricensis This Citie Queene Boduo in reuenge of her wrongs raced to the ground what time she stirred their people against Nero with the slaughter of seuentie thousand of the Romanes Of some later and lesser account was Ithanchester now S. Peters vpon the wall where the Forteuses with their Captaine kept towards the declination of the Romane Empire In the East Promontory of this Countie in the Raigne of Richard the second the teeth of a Giant were found if they were not of an Elephant of a marueilous size saith Raph Coggeshall and not farre thence in the raigne of Elizabeth more bones to the like wonder were digged vp 9 I purposely omit the message of a Pilgrim from S. Iohn Baptist by whom he sent a Ring to King Edward Confessor for which cause his house tooke the name Hauering seeing the Monkes of those times made no great daintie daily to forge matter for their owne aduantage who in this Shire so swarmed that they had houses erected at Waltham Pritlewell Tiltey Dunâ—ow Leeye Hatfeild Peuerell Chelmesford Coggeshall Maldon Earls coln Colâ—hester S Osths Saffron-Walden Hatfield-Bradocke and more with great reuenewes thereto belonging all which felt the Axes and Hammers of destruction when the rest of such foundations fell vnder the â—â—â—ile of King Henry the eight who with Hezekiah brake downe all these Brazen Serpents SVFFOLKE CHAPTER XVI SVFFOLKE in regard of them which were seated in Norfolke is a Country most plenteous and pleasant for habitation It is separated from Norfolke by the Riuers of the lesser Ouse and Waueney whose heads meet almost in the midst of her Verge and that very neere together the one taking course East and the other full West vpon which part Cambridge-shire doth wholly confront The South side is seuered by Stoure from Essex and the East together washed with the Germane Seas 2 The Ayre is good sweet and delectable and in some parts of some of our best Physitians held to be the best in the Land the Soile is rich fruitfull and with all things well replenished in a word nothing wanting for pleasure of profit 3 The forme thereof is some what Cressant shooting vp narrower into the North and spreading wider towards the South whose broadest part is about twentie miles but from East to West much more for from Easton point the furthest of this Shire yea of all Britaine into the Sea vnto great Ouse Riuer her Westerne bounder are fortie fiue miles and the whole in circumference about one hundred fortie sixe miles 4 Anciently this part of the Iland was possessed by the Iceni who as it seemeth by Tacitus ioyned in Amitie with the Romans a mightie people saith he and neuer shaken with warres before the raigne of Claudius but then by Ostorius were vanquished though not without great slaughter of the Romans and in a Battle against them M. Ostorius the sonne of the Generall wonne great honour in sauing of a Roman Citizens life so ready were they to giue and receiue Honours to themselues but sleightly to
situation of the people who being the Norther-most of the Kingdome of East-Angles are therefore called the Northfolke as the Souther-most of the Southfolke The Ayre is sharpe and piercing especially in the Champion and neere the Seaâ— therefore it delaieth the Spring and Haruest the situation of the Country inclining thereto as being vnder the 53. degree of Latitude The Soâ—e diuers about the Townes commonly good as Clay Chalke or saâ— earth well watered and with some wood vpward to the Heaths naked dry and barren Marsland and Flegg exceeding rich but Marsland properly for Pastere Flegg for Corne. 2 The parts from Thetford to Buruham and thence Westward as also along the Coast be counted Champion the rest as better furnished with woods Woodland The Champion aboundeth with Corne Sheepe and Conies and here in the barren Heaths as the prouidence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them are very profitable For on them principally lie our Fould courses called of the Saxons whose institution they therefore seeme to be Paldyoeun that is Libertie of fold or fouldage These Heaths by the Compasture of the sheepe which we call Tath are made so rich with Corne that when they fall to be sowne they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Countries and laid againe doe long after yeeld a sweeter and more plentifull feed for sheepe so that each of them maintaine other and are the chiefest wealth of our Country The Woodland fitter for grasse is maintained chiefly by feeding of Cattell yet well stored with Corne and Sheepe The Coast is fortunate in Fish and hath many good Harbours whereof Lenn and Yarmouth be the mother-ports and of great traffique Wels and Blakeney next in estimation The whole Countie aboundeth with Riuers and pleasant Springs of which the Ouse is chiefest by whose plentifull branches the Isle of Fly the Townes and Shires of Cambridge Humington and the Countie of Suffolke vent and receiue Commodities The next is Hierus or Yere passing from Norwich to Yarmouth where it receiueth the Bure comming from Aylsham both of them of great seruice for water-carriages but very notable for their plenty of 〈◊〉 for some one man out of an hold vpon the Bure hath drawne vp ordinarily once a yeare betweene two Nets about fiue or six score busness of Fish at one draught The Waueney and the lesser Ouse are also Nauigable and of great vse The residue I omit 3 I he people were anciently called ICENI as they also of Suffolke Cambridge-shire and Huntington-shire and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni Ptolemie Simeni some Tâ—gens Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britaines barbarous at those times as appeareth by Caesar and Tacitus Neither can I otherwise commend their Successors the Saxons for so also their owne Countryman Ethelwerd termeth them Since the entry of the Normans they haue beene accounted ciuill and ingenious apt to good Letters adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries then any Shire of England and the Lawes and Seats of Iustice for many ages with some excellent men from whom most of our chiefe Families and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdome haue taken aduancement And herein is Northfolke fortunate that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen neuer yet attainted of high Treason How the gouernment of this Country was about Caesars time is vncertaine but agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britaines vnder some peculiar Toparch or Regulus as Tacitus termeth him The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons one at Gariannum neere Yarmouth the other at Branedunum now called Brancastre both of horse and commanded by the Comes Maritims Tractus as Marcellinus calleth him termed after Comes Littoris Saexonici Vpon the entry of the Saxons this Countie with Suffolke fell in the portion of the Angles and about the yeare fiue hundred sixtie one were together erected into a Kingdome by Vffa of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines But hauing suffred many Tempests of Fortune it was in the yeare 870. vtterly wasted and extinct by Hungar and Hubba the Danes who ouerthrew the vertuous King Edmund about Thetford and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury Yet they did not long enioy it for King Edward shortly recouered it from them and annexed it to his other Kingdomes The Danes notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts so that many of our Townes were founded by them and a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their bloud 4 This Kingdome of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earledome of that name by William the Conquerour who made Radulph a Britaine marying his kinswoman Earle thereof but gaue the greatest parts of this Countie about Wimondham Keninghall Lenn Buruham Fulmerstone c. to W. de Albany Pincernae and W de Warranna Forrestario who to strengthen themselues according to the vse of that time with the homage and seruice of many tenants diuided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers so that most of the Manours and Lands in the parts aforesaid were in those dayes either mediately or immediately holden of one of them And as Northfolke and Suffolke were first vnited in a Kingdome then in an Earledome so they continued vnited in the Sheriffe-wicke till about the fifteenth yeare of Queene Elizabeth 5 The Townes here are commonly well built and populous three of them being of that worth and qualitie as no one Shire of England hath the like Norwich Lenn and Yarmouth to which for ancient reputation as hauing beene a seat of the Kings of East-Angles I may adde Thetford knowne to Antonius Ptolemie and elder ages by the name of Sitemagus when the other three were yet in their infancie and of no esteeme for I accept not the Relations of the Antiquitie and State of Norwich in the time of the Britaine and Saxons though Alexander Neuil hath well graced them Her very name abridgeth her Antiquitie as hauing no other in Histories but Norwich which is meere Saxon or Danish and signifieth the North-Towne or Castle It seemeth to haue risen out of the decay of her neighbour Vinta now called Castor and as M. Cambden noteth not to haue beene of marâ—â— before the entry of the Danes who in the yeare 1004. vnder Sweno their Captaine first sackt and then burnt it euen in her infancie Yet in the dayes of Edward the Confessor it recouered 1320. Burgesset But maintaining the cause of Earle Radulph aforesaid against the Conquerour they were by famine and sword wasted to 560 at which time the Earle escaping by ship his wife vpon composition yeelded the Castle and followed 〈◊〉 William Rusuâ— time it was growne famous for Merchandise and concourse of people so that Herbert then translating the Bishopricke from Thetford thither made each of them an ornament to other In varietie of times it felt much varietie of Fortune By fire in Anno 1508. By extreame plagues whereof
by such prouision to all other parts of England but doth also farnish the wants of forraine Countries with her plentie By meanes of this and the intercourse of traffique which it hath the place is growne exâ—eeding rich and populous Before the Conquest it was called Monk-chester hauing beene 〈…〉 in the possession of Monkes and Chester being added which signifies a bulwarke or place of defence shewes that in ancient time it had beene a place of Fortification 8 After the Conquest it got the name of Newcastle by the new Castle which Robert the Sonne of William the Conquerour built there out of the ground What it was called in old time is not knowne yet some are of opinion that it may be thought to haue beene Gatrosentum for that Gateshead the suburbe as it were of the same expresseth in the owne proper signification that British name Gatrosentum It is now most enobled both by the Hauen which Tyne maketh of that notable depth that it beareth very tall Ships and is able to defend them against stormes and tempests As also by many fauours and honours wherewith it hath beene dignified by pâ—ces for Richard the second granted that a Sword should be carried before the Maior and Henry the sixt made it a County consisting of a Corporation within it selfe It is adorned with foure Churches and fortified with strong wals that haue eight gates It is distant from the first West line 21 degrees and 30 minutes and from the Equinoctiall liue towards the North-pole thirtie-foure degrees and fiftie-seaven minutes 9 The vtmost Towne in England and the strongest hold in all Britaine is Barwicke From whence it had the name is not certainely made knowne Some fetch it from Berengarius a Duke neuer read of Howsoeuer this is better to be said then trusted and whence soeuer it hath the name it is seated betweene two mightie Kingdomes shooting farre into the Sea with the which and the Riuer Tweed it is almost encompassed and whensoeuer any discord fell betweene the two Nations this place was the first thing they tooke care of It hath endured the brunts of diuers inroades and incursions and beene oftentimes both possessed and repossessed of the Scots and English But since it was reduced vnder the command of Edward the fourth our Kings haue from time to time so strengthened it with new workes and fortifications as they cut off all hopes of winning it The Gouernour of this Towne is also Warden of the East Marches against scotland The Longitude of it according to Mathematicall obseruation is 21. degrees and 43. minutes the Latitude 55. degrees and 48. minutes 10 The Inhabitants of this County are a warlike people and excellent light horsemen and are made fierce and hard by the seuerall encounters of the Scots and not much vnlike them in neither betwixt whom in this County many Battles haue beene fought and the successes oftentimes waued through very doubtfully the victory sometimes falling to the scots sometimes to the English At Otterburne was one in which three or foure times it stood doubtfully indifferent till in the end the Scots got the vpper hand of the English Howbeit their glory was not made so illustrious by this Conquest but that it was as much darkened by the foile they receiued at Aâ—wicke where William King of Scots was taken and presented prisoner to Henry the second As also by that Battell at Brumridge where King Athelstan fought a pitcht field against Anlafe the Dane Constantine King of Scots and Eugenius King of Cumberland and that with such fortunate successe as it hath left matter sufficient to fill the pennes of Historians Flodden field also memorable in the death of Iames the fourth King of Scots who was there slaine and his Army ouerthrowne in a sharpe fight as he displayed his Banner in great hope against England when King Henry the eight lay at the siege of Turnay in France 11 Other Battles in this Countie haue beene as that at Hexam called by Bede Hangustald wherein Iohn Neuill Marquesse Montacute encountred the Leaders of the Lancastrian faction with much courage and with greater successe put them to flight for which he was made Earle of Northumberland by Edward the fourth As also that at Dilston by Bede called Diuelshurâ—e where Oswald hauing the faith of Christ for his defence and armour slew Cedwall the Britaine in a set battell himselfe straight-wayes becomming a professed Christian and causing his people to be instructed in Christian Religion 12 Many memorable antiquities are found in this Country along the wall and in other places As pieces of Coyne Inscriptions broken and vnperfect Altars c. the ruines of the wall yet to be seene but none that deserues more to be remembred then Wall-Towne by Bede called Ad Muruâ— for that Segebert King of the East-Saxons was in it baptized in the Christian Faith by the hands of Paulinus and Halyston where the same Paulinus is said to haue baptized many thousands into the Faith of Christ in the Primitiue Church of the English Nation 13 Busy-gap is a place infamous for robbing and theeuing and is therefore rather remembred as a cautiatory note for such as haue cause to trauell that way then for any proper matter of worth it hath that merits place with other parts of this Prouince Other matters of obseruation are onely these that North Tyne running through the Wall waters two Dales which breed notable light horse-men and both of them haue their hils hard by so boggy and standing with water on the top that no horsemen are able to ride through them and yet which is wonderfull there be many great heapes of Stones called Lawes which the neighbouring people are verily perswaded were cast vp and laid together in old time in remembrance of some that were slaine there There is also a martiall kinde of men which lie out vp and downe in little Cottages called by them Sheals and Shealings from Aprill to August in scattering fashion summering as they terme it their Cattle and these are such a sort of people as were the ancient Nomades The last not least matter of note is this that the Inhabitants of Morpeth set their owne Towne on fire in the yeare of Christ 1215. in the spight they bare to King Iohn for that he and his Rutars ouer-ranne these Countries MAN ILAND CHAPTER XLIII THe I le of Man is termed by Ptolemy Mâ—neda by Pliny Menauia by Orosius Menania by Beda Menania secunda and by Gyldas 〈◊〉 and Mâ—naw The Britaine name it Menâ—w the Inhabitants Maâ—â—ge and we Englishmen The I le of Man It boundeth North-ward vpon Scotland South-ward vpon the I le of Anglesey East-ward vpon part of 〈◊〉 shire and West-ward vpon the Coast of Ireland 2 The forme is long and narrow for from 〈◊〉 to the Mull-hils where it is longest it onely stretcheth it selfe to twentie nine miles but from the widest part which is from Peele-Castle to Douglas-point are scarce nine the whole compasse about
the other part of the I le This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale where in former times stood a Priory or a Couent of religious persons the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene 8 The gouernment of this I le in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey of whom shall be said The people in their Originall and Language alike also but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded It hath ten Parishes and one Market-Towne being also a Hauen and is called S. Peters Port built close by the Peere and Castle Cornet IERSEY THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie that in former times many yeares together was in the possession and vnder the command of the Kings of England annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder and are now both adiuncts and within the circuit of Hampshire For the first being the Isle of Iersey it lyeth vpon the British Sea hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire and on the South the Country of Normandy 2 This Iland is long not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West to Mount Orguil Castle on the East ten miles and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney about foure leagues It was in old time called Caesaria whether from Iulius Octanius or any the other Caesars that followed is vnknowne But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey 3 It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks which is much feared of the Mariners and makes the passage that way very dangerous howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats or any strangers that attempt inuasion and they are termed Casquets 4 The Soile is very fertile bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle but especially of sheepe that are of reasonable bignesse the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece Their wooll very fine and white of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland 5 The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britaines or both They speake French though after a corrupt manner and haue continued their names language customes and Country without any or little intermixture these many hundred yeares hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie eldest sonne to William the Conquerour 6 The people of this Country liue very pleasantly as well by the profits of the Land as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea that yeelds vnto them and especially in Summer season great store of fish but principally Conger and Lobsters the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant for their best fuell is Turffe some Coale they haue brought vnto them but it is very deare straw furre and ferne seruing their ordinary vses The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure 7 The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him the principall of whom carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences and minister Iustice in criminall matters seuen in matters of reason and conscience fiue Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes so that no man goeth further to complaine then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES CHAPTER I. ANtiquitie hath auouched that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas the Riuers of Seuerne Dee and Humber called then â—â—oyger which name yet it retaineth in Wâ—â—sh in English called England The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber to the Orkney Sea called by the Latines Mare Caledonium or Deucaledonium now famously knowne by the name of Scotland The third part was this lying betwixt the Irish Seas the Riuers Seuerne and Dee and was called Cambria which name doth yet continue with them though we the English call it Wales as the people Welshmen which is strange and strangers for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany whence our Saxons are said to haue come doe name the Italian their next neighbour a Welshman and his language Welsh 2 This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue which the Germans spake and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Goâ—les whence their originall proceeded rather then Wallish from strangers which he thinketh could not be considering their habitations â—o neere vnto them and that the like was in vse he proueth by the words of French Gardian for Wardian Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea and Galles for Wales calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of Wales insomuch that the County of Lombardy bordering along vpon the Germans was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina and at this day Welsh-land So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henalâ— and Artois Wallen or Wallons and some parts of Brabanâ— and Flanderâ— Welsh-Brabanâ— and Welsh-Flanders and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria of themselues then Cambri or Cumri or of their language then Cambraoc But leauing this opinion free to his affection we will proceed 3 Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer d ee and especially Offa King of Mercia made their limits straiter by making a ditch of great bredth depth to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day and beares the name of Clawâ— Offa that is Offaes Ditch The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen especially in North-Wales euen to the Riuer Dee This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire betweene Chester and Ruthlan and ran along the hils to the South Sea a little from Bristow
which are seene to racke much lower then the top of that Hill As strange tales are told of the Meer Llynsauathan two miles by East from Breknock which at the breaking of her frozen Iâ—e maketh a fearefull sound like vnto thunder In which place as is reported sometimes stood afaire Citie which was swallowed vp in an Earthquake and resigned her stone-wals vnto this deepe and 〈◊〉 water whither vnto this day leadeth all the wayes in this Shire which as leâ—â—â—ed Cambdinâ—â—â—ctureth â—â—ctureth might be that Louentrium which Ptolemy in this tract placeth and the most confirmed 〈…〉 name adioyning being also called Leuenny which Riuer also passeth through this 〈…〉 the same streame and no greater then wherewith she first entred in 5 The Townes for Commerce are Hay Bealt and Breknock two of them vnfortunate of their former greatnesse whom warres and sedition haue defaced aâ— least downe Hay vpon Wye and Dulas pleasant for situation in the rebellion of Owen Glendower◠〈◊〉 was diswalled depopulated and burnt in whose foundations for new repaires many Romane Coines haue beene found and thereby thought to be the seate of their Legions and Buelth now Bealt though of good frequencie yet not so great as when Ptolemie obserued her position for graduation who calleth it Buleum Silurum neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrosius by whose permission Pascentius the sonne of Vortiger ruled all as Ninius writeth nor yet as of later times when Leolin the last Prince of the Britaines was therein betrayed and slaine 6 Breknock the Shire-Towne for buildings and beautie retaineth a better regard whose walles in Ouall-wise are both strong and of good repaire hauing three Gates for entrance with tenne Towres for defence and is in circuit six hundred and fortiepaces about vpon whose west part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated the like whereof is not commonly seene whose decayes approaching doe increase her ruines daily and in the end is feared will be her fall This Towne is seated vpon the meeting of two Riuers Houthy and Vske whose yearely gouernment is committed to two Bailiffes fifteene Aldermen two Chamberlaines two Constables a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants their Attendants hauing the Poles eleuation in 52 21. minutes of Latitude and for Longitude is placed in the 16. and 32. minutes as the Mathematicians doe measure them 7 This Shire is strengthned with â—ine Castles diuided into sixe Hundreds wherein are seated three Market-Townes and fiftie 〈◊〉 Parish-Churches CARDIGAN-SHIRE CHAPTER V. CARDIGAN-SHIRE in the Welsh called Sire Aber-Tiui is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the Riuer Doui by the Plinillimon hilles from Montgomery-shire in part of her East and the rest from Breknock-shire with the water Towy and with Tyuy altogether on the South from Caermarden-shire the West is wholly washed with the Irish Sea 2 The forme thereof is horne-like bowing compasse long and narrow and growing wider still towards the North so that from Cardigan the Shire-Towne and vttermost point in the South vnto the Riuer Doui her farthest North bounder are thirtie two miles and from the head of Carwen in the East to Aberysthwyth on her West the broadest part in the Shire are onely fifteene the whole in circumference is one hundred and three miles 3 The Aire is open and somewhat piercing the soyle is hillie and Wales-like vneuen yet more plaine and champion towards the Sea then in the East or North of the Land For besides that great and high hill called Plinilâ—â—on a continuall range of lesser doth shoote along yeelding in their vallies both goodly rich Pastures and very large Pooles which being assisted with Springs from the Rockes doe branch themselues as veines in the bod◠〈◊〉 make fruitfull their passages vnto the Sea In Tyuy one of these as Giraldus 〈…〉 Beauer hath beene found a creature liuing both by land and water whose stones the 〈…〉 in great price His fore-feete are like vnto a dogge but the hinder whole skinne as is the 〈…〉 the dogge-like serue him on shore for to run and the Goose-like as Oraes giue him swift 〈◊〉 in swimming this taile broad and gristly he vseth as a sterne wherewith on the sudden 〈◊〉 diuert his swift floating course But this creature in these parts a long time hath not beene seene whose roome we may well say the Salmon hath possessed who still coueting into fresh water Riuers at their downe-right falles vseth this policie He bendeth himselfe backward and taketh his taile in his mouth and with all his strength vnloosing his circle on the sudden as a lath let goe mounteth vp before the fall of the streame whereupon such water-falles are called the Salmons leape and in these Riuers many such Salmons are caught 4 The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle Sea-sowle and Fish Corne sufficient but of Woods some scarcitie and at the head of Istwyd are certaine veines of Lead a merchandize of no meane regard or wealth 5 The ancient people that possessed this Prouince were the Dimetae by Ptolemie branched thorow the Tracts of Caermarden Penbrooke and this Shire who in their struglings against the Romans did not a little relie vpon Caractacus their most warlike King from whose name though vnlikely some will haue the Shire called Cardigan yet lastly felt the fortune of subiection with the rest when Iulius Frontinus warred with these Mountaines Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine but that they assailed this Countie as well to enioy so farre a Possession as to secure those Seas from any inuasion against them so that Rufus first wrested from the Welshmen the maritime Coasts and Henry the first gaue the whole Countie to Gilbert de 〈◊〉 6 This Giâ—bert fortified 〈◊〉 the Shire-Towne with a Wall and strong Castle whose aged lineaments doe to this day 〈…〉 industry both of nature and Art for the Towne is seated vpon a steepe banke her South 〈◊〉 guarded with the deepe Riuer Tyny and passable no way but by a bridge vnder the Castle They 〈◊〉 taketh the aduantage of the rising rocks and circulate the Towne euen round about The Castle is â—â—â—gher built vpon a Rocke both spatious and faire had not stormes impaired her beautie and time 〈◊〉 her carkasse a very Anatomie The walles range as thou seest and are indifferent for repaire hauing three wayes for entrance and containe in compasse six hundred and fourescore pases whose position for Latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North-pole and for Longitude from the first West-point by Mercator in the degree 15. and 10. minutes 7 This Shire as it is little in circuit so accordingly is besprinkled with Towne-ships whereof foure onely haue the trade of Markets neither finde I other remembrance of religious foundations but at Cardigan Istradfleet and at Llan-Badern-Vaur where sometimes was seated an Episcopall See which as Houeden writeth was decayed many yeares since when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour And yet Llan-Deui-breui built
round in compasse and within her wals another mount whereon a Towre of great height and strength is built which was the birth-place of our Conquering Henry the great Triumpher ouer France but now decayed and from a Princely Castle is become no better then a regardlesse Cottage In this Towne a beautifull Church built with three Iles is remaining and at the East end a most curiously built but now decayed Church stands called the Monkes 〈◊〉 In the Monastery whereof our great Antiquarie Geffrey surnamed Munmouth and Ap 〈◊〉 his History of Great Britaineâ— whose paines as they were both learned and great so 〈◊〉 bred great paines among the learned both to defend and to disproue The Townes situation is pleasant and good seated betwixt the Riuers Monnowe and Wye three Gates yet stand besides that Tower or Locke of the Bridge and a Trench or tract of wall running betwixt the â—on each side downe to the Riuer containing in circuit about eight hundred paces The Towne is 〈◊〉 good repayre and well frequented gouerned by a Maior two Bailiffes fifteene Common Councellers a Towne-Clerke and two Sergeants for their Attendance It is in Latitude remoued from the Equator 52. degrees and 8. minutes and from the West point of Longitude is set in the degree 17. 36. minutes Religious Houses erected and suppressed in this Shire for greatest account haue beene in Câ—…â—…on Chepstow Gold-cliffe Munmouth and Llantony which last stood so solitary and among hils that the Sunne was not seene to shine there but onely betwixt the houres of one and three MOVNTGOMERY-SHIRE CHAPTER IX MOVNTGOMERY-SHIRE in the British speech called 〈◊〉 and that of the principall Towne Mountgomery lyeth bounded vpon the North with Denbigh-shire vpon the East with Shrop-shire on the South with Raâ—â—or and Cardigan-shires and on the West with Merioneth-shire 2 In forme it somewhat resembleth a Peare or Pine-apple as it were growing out of the West and rising thence with many high Hilles and plentifull Springâ— which water and make fruitfull the Soyle query where whose searching rilles with a longing desire haste euer forward to finde an increase and to 〈◊〉 theiâ— growth into a bigger body whereof the Sâ—uerne is the chiefe and the second Riuer in the Land whose head rising from the spired mountaine Plymillimon runneth not farre without the receits of other riuerâ—â—â— into her streame and with many wings doth spore her selfe thorow all the East part of this Shire 3 That this Riuer tooke her name from 〈◊〉 the beautifull 〈◊〉 daughter of 〈◊〉 begotten out of wedlock vpon Estrildiâ— the daughter of 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 King â—â—â—rinuaded this Land and both of them drowned in this Riuer by Guenâ—â—lena King 〈◊〉 â—â—â—uiuing widow let 〈◊〉 relate and Poets enlarge whereof one among them in good account thus writeth In 〈◊〉 pracipitatur Abren Nomen Abren 〈◊〉 de Virgine 〈…〉 Into this streame faire Abren head-long cast Gaue name of Abren to those waters wast Corruptly call'd Sabrina now at last 4 This Riuer maketh the East part of this Shire for fruitfulnesse to be compared with most of the Land and to exceed any other Shire in Wales the West side is more hilly and lesse inhabited yet surely those mountaines breed innumerable of Cattle especially of horses whose portraiture for making and incomparable swiftnesse Giraldus Cambrensis Arch-deacon of Breknocke doth greatly commend 5 The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in Gwineth and Powisland whereof this Shire was a part were to the Romanes knowne by the name of ORDOVICES a puissant and couragious Nation whose hearts and hilles held them the longest free from the yoke of subiection either of the Romans or English for vnto the dayes of Domitian they kept plea with the Romans 〈◊〉 were not brought to the will of the English before the raigne of King Edward the first Those ORDOVICES inhabited the Counties of Mountgomery Merioneth Caerâ—â—â— Denbigh and Flâ—t which are of vs called now North-Wales a people generous and of affableâ—◠〈◊〉 goodly for feature faire of complexion couragious of minde courteous to strangers and that which is most commendable most true and loyall to the English Crowne Townes for Trades and commerce in this Countie are fix the chiefest thereof and Shire-Towne is Mountgomery very wholesome for ayre and pleasant for situation vpon an easie ascent of an hill and vpon another farre higher mounted stands a faire and well-repaired Castle from the East Rocke whereof the Towne hath beene walled as by some part yet standing and the tract and trench of the rest euen vnto the North-side of the said Castle may euidently be seene whose graduation for Latitude is placed in the degree 53. and for Longitude 17. the lines cutting each other in the site of this Towne This Towne hath lately receiued the honour and Title of an Earledome whereof Philip Herbert the second sonne of Henry Earle of Pembroke was created the first in Anno 1605. And the Shire diuided into seauen Hundreds wherein are seated sixe Market-Townes and fortie seauen Parish-Churches MERIONETH-SHIRE CHAPTER X. MERIONETH-SHIRE which the Britaines call Sira-Verieneth and in Latine Merâ—inia is bordered vpon the North by Carnarâ—â—on and Denbigh-shires vpon the East with Mongomery vpon the South by the Riuer Dowy is parted from Cardigan-shire and the West side altogether washed with the Irish Seas whose rage with such vehemency beateth against her bankes that it is thought and said some quantitie of the Land hath beene swallowed vp by those Seas 2 In forme this Shire somewhat resembleth a Welsh-Harpe though small is the Musicke that to her Inhabitants she makes being the roughest and most vnpleasant to see to as Giraldus their owne Historian writeth in all Wales The ayre for great pleasure nor soyle for great profit I cannot greatly commend vnlesse it be for the many and mightie great winds that for the most part therein doe rage and the spired hils clustered together so neere and so high as the same Author affirmeth that Shepheards vpon their tops falling at oddes in the morning and challenging the field for fight before they can come together to try out the quarrell the day will be spent and the heate of their fury shut vp with their sleepe 3 These mountaines formerly did abound with Wolues for whose auoydeance Hdgar the peaceable did impose as Malmesbury writeth a yearely Tribute of three hundred Wolues vpon Ludwall Prince of that Country whereby in three yeares space they were quite destroyed and now their faces are couered with fruitfull flockes of Sheepe besides Neate and other Cattell that therein abundantly doe grase wherein the onely riches of this Shire doth consist for by reason of the vneuennesse of the soile and rocks so noere the face of the earth the Plough cannot be 〈…〉 Corne prosper which some haue imputed to the idlenesse of the Inhabitants wherein they haue beene greatly wronged 4 These people are a part of the Ordonices of whom we haue spoken who by the aduantage of these mountaines held out with
it gaue vnto the third It was founded by Henry the second finished by Edward the first and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble but vnfortunate Prince Richard the second comming out of Ireland being within her walles a free and absolute King but no sooner without but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke Duke of Lancaster losing at that time his libertie and not long after his life This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes in Longitude 17. For the Castle of Hawarden no record remaines of the first founder but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester Howbeit their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications as in their Mountaines and Hils which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods neere vnto the Riuer Alen called Coles-hull that is Coles-hill where the English by reason of their disordered multitude not ranged close in good array lost the field and were defeated when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance 8 This Country hath many shallow riuers in it but none of fame and note but d ee and Cluyde Howbeit there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle of great report and antiquitie which is termed Fons Sacer in English Holy-Well and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well of whom antiquitie thus reporteth That Winefrid a Christian Virgin very faire and vertuous was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country who not long able to rule his head-strong affections hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises could not by any meanes obtaine his desires he therefore in a place of aduantage suddenly surprized and rauished her weake yet resisting body After the deed done the cruell Tyrant to stop her cries and acclamations slew her and cut off her head out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current as the like is not found in Christendome Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued in the Chancell whereof and glasse window the picture of the Virgin is drawne together with the memoriall of her life and death To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous but blind deuotion and diuers others resort to bathe in holding firmely that the water is of much vertue There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away and that the mosse about the wall was her haire which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes yet it neuer wasteth But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet There is also hard by Kilken a small village within this Countie a little Well of no great note that at certaine times riseth and falleth after the manner of Sea-tydes 9 In the South part of this Country diuided from the rest is a place in some written Coppies of Antonine called Bouium which we now terme Banchor first a Citie and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory and the first that is read of in the world wherein as Beda saith were a great number of Monkes and them diuided into seauen Companies euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer and to get liuing by their owne labour for themselues and the poore although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining one standing a mile distant from another and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne and other tokens of antiquitie But of these shall be more mention made in the following History Another like Monastry but of lesser account stood in the Vale beneath Varis a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 of the Riuer the Englishmen Asuph of the Founder and the Historiographers Asphensis It is more famouse for antiquitie then for building o◠brauery for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas◠being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland placed here a Bishops See and erected a Monastry gathering together 66◠in a religious brotherhood whereof 300. that were vnlearned gaue themselues to husbandrie and to worke within the Monastery the rest to prayer and meditations When he returned into Scotland he ordained Asaph a godly and vpright man to be gouernous ouer this Monastery of whom it tooke the name and is called Saint Asaphs Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire and will further speake thereof in the following History ANGLESEY CHAPTER XIII ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona by the Britaines Mon and Tir-Mon that is the Land of Mon of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg And at last after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules and became Lords thereof it was termed Anglesey as one would say The Englishmens Iland 2 For an Iland it is albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth being where it reacheth out in length from Beau-marish Eastward to the vtmost Promontory West-ward which we call Holy-head twentie miles and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward to the point of Menai South-ward seauenteene miles the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles 3 The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull and not generally subiect to diseases excepting certaine Agues at some times which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium with the which this Ile is encompassed 4 The Commodities that commend or rather beautifie this Country are in Corne and Cattle wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly
but sendeth out great prouision thereof to others to supply their defects and although the ground may seeme dry and stony or vnpleasant and nothing sightly wherein for the outward qualitie it resembleth some other parts of Wales that are not so fruitfull yet for the inward bounties of nature it is farre vnlike for aboue all the Coasts of Wales it is most plentifull of Wheat insomuch as by Giraldus Cambrensis report they are wont to say in Welsh by way of a Prouerbe Mon Mam Combry which is to say Mon is the mother of Wales for that when other Countries haruest failes round about or their prouision is exhaust and drawne dry this alone like a prouident and full-brested mother is able to sustaine the rest Whereunto Nature most prouidently hath added another benefit seruiceable and necessary to the former in that the Country produceth also those kinde of stones which are called Molâ—res is of all other fittest to make Mill-stones or Grind-stones In some places also it yeeldeth an earth of Aluminoâ—â— qualitie out of which some not long since began to make Alom and Coperose who like vnflesht Souldiers gaue ouer their enterprise without further hope because at first they saw it not answere their ouer-hastie expectations 5 The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordâ—â—ices mentioned before in the precedent Prouinces of Denbigh-shire Flint-shire and Carnaruon-shire And this very Iland was that ancient and so much enobled seate of the British Druyds who so amated the Army of Romane inuaders as Tacitus reports and as else-where we haue related in the sixt Booke and seauenth Chapter of our ensuing History 6 This Nation was attempted first by Paâ—linus Suetonius in the raigne of Nero but brought vnder the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine began to decline and goe downeward some out of Ireland entred into this Isle by stealth and nestled themselues there as may be gathered by certaine mounts of earth entrenched about and yet to be seene which they call the Iâ—â—sh mens Cottages as also by a place named of the Irish-men yn Hieriey Gwidid who did there as is recorded put the Britaines to flight vnder the leading of Sinigus The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Iland but King Ethelreds Fleet hauing in the yeare 1000. scowred the Seas round about this Isle far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations for they wasted the Country in all hostile manner 7 After this two Hughs both Normans did greatly afflict this Iland The one being Earle of Chester the other of Shrewsbury at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriuing there shot Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow and departed after he had ransacked the Iland It was afterwards grieuously infested by the Englishmen who neuer gaue ouer from time to time to inuade it vntill in the raigne of King Edward the first it was wholly brought vnder his subiection 8 The principall Towne in this Isle is Beaumarish which the said King Edward the first built in the East side thereof and for the faire situation though in a Morish place gaue it the name which it now beareth whereas in times past it was called Bonouer which he also fortified with a goodly Castle 9 The Maior is the chiefest Magistrate of the Towno who is yearely chosen and hath the assistance and helpe of two Bailiffes two Sergeants at Mace and one Towne-Clerke by whose carefull diligence the affaires of this Towne are orderly managed and commanded whose Latitude is 54. and Longitude 15. 45. minutes 10 Not far from hence is Lhaanuais in times past a faire religious house of the Friars Minors which although it be now in a manner raced out of memory yet antiquitie maketh mention that it hath beene of great regard among the Kings of England who haue shewed themselues very bountifull Patrons vnto that Couent both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conuersed there as also because there the bodies of very eminent persons as the daughter of King Iohn the sonne of a King of the Danes as likewise of many great Lords Knights and Squires were enterred that were slaine in the warres against the Welsh in the time of many illustrious Kings of England 11 This Isle is reckoned to haue had anciently many Villages in it euen to the number of three hundred threescore and three and the same euen at this day is very well peopled The diuision of this I le for disposition of affaires that belong either to the state of the Croâ—â—â— or to the condition of the Country is into six Hundreds in which are seated two Market-Townes and seuentie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine honour and worship CAERNARVON-SHIRE CHAPTER XIIII CAERNARVON-SHIRE in Welsh Sire Caer-ar-von so called because it is iust ouer against Anglesey which the Britaines call Mon and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest before Wales was laid into Shires the North-side whereof and the West butteth vpon the Irish Sea the South-side is inclosed with Merioneth and the East with Denbigh-shires from which it is seuered by the Riuer Conwey 2 The forme thereof is much like a wedge long and narrow toward the South and growing still wider towards the North so that from Penenkel-point South-ward to Orms-head-point Northward are fortie miles from the Riuer Conwey Eastward to the Riuer Llenoy Westward miles twentie and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles 3 The Aire is sharpe and piercing by reason that the Country hath not naturall prouision to ensconce her selfe against the extremitie of winds and weather but especially as may be thought through the continuance of the Snow on the hils which also exclude the Suns aspect and warmth 4 The soile cannot be much commended for the fertilitie except those parts of the Sea-coasts which lye on the West towards Ireland but for the heart of this Shire it is altogether mountainous as if Nature had a purpose here by rearing vp these craggy hils so thicke together strongly to compact the ioynts of this our Iland and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britaines against those times of aduersitie which afterward did fall vpon them for no Army though neuer so strongly or scarce any Trauellers though neuer so lightly appointed can finde passage among those so many rough and hard Rockes so many Vales and Pooles here and there crossing all the wayes as ready obstacles to repell any Inroades of forraine aâ—â—ailants These Mountaines may not vnfitly be termed the British Alpes as being the most vaste of all Britaine and for their steepnesse and cragginesse not vnlike to those of Italy all of them towring vp into the Aire and round encompassing one farre higher then all the rest peculiarly called Snowdon-Hill though the other likewise in the same sense are by the Welsh termed Cralg Erâ—ry as much as Snowy Mountaines taking their name as doth by Plinies testimony Niphates in Armenia and
infants mouth vpon the point of her husbands sword and with he atâ—enish imprecations wisheth that it may die no otherwise then in warre or by sword 15 But from these ancient and barbarous manners let vs come to the conditions of their middle time whom Giraldus Cambrensis describeth as followeth The Irish saith he are a strong and bold people martiall and prodigall in warre nimble stout and haughtie of heart carelesse of life but greedie of glory courteous to strangers constant in loue light of beliefe impatient of iniurie giuen to fleshly lusts and in enmitie implacable At the baptizing of their Infants their manner was not to dip their right armes into the water that so as they thought they might giue a more deepe and incurable blow neuer calling them by the names of their Parents whilest they liued together but at their death tooke it vpon them Their women nursed not the children they bare and they that nursed others did affect and loue them much more then their owne 16 So much were they giuen to fantasticall conceits that they held it very ominous to giue their neighbours fire vpon May-day to eat an old egge endangered the death of their horse and before they cast in their seed they send salt into the field to hang vp the shelles in the roofe was a preseruatiue of the chickens from the kite to set vp greene boughes at their doores in the Moneth of May increased their kines milke and to spit vpon Cattle they held it good against Witchery whereof Ireland was full 17 Superstitious Idolatry among the wilde Irish was common yeelding diuine honour vnto the Moone after the change vnto whom they both bowed their knees and made supplications and with a loud voice would thus speake vnto that Planet Wee pray thee leaue vs in as good estate as thou foundst vs. Wolues they did make their Godsibs terming them Chari Christ and so thought themselues preserued from their hurts the hoofes of dead horses they accounted and held sacred about childrens necks they hung the beginning of Saint Iohns Gospell a crooked naile of an horse-shooe or a peece of a Wolues skinne and both the sucking-childe and nurse were girt with girdles finely plated of womans haire so farre they wandred into the wayes of errour in making these armes the strength of their healths 18 Their wiues were many by reason of diuorcements and their maids married at twelue yeares of age whose customes were to send to their louers bracelets plated and curiously wrought of their owne haire so farre following Venus in the knots of these aâ—â—urements The men wore linnen shirts exceedingly large stained with Saffron the sleeues wide and hanging to their knees strait and short trustes plated thicke in the skirts their breeches close to the thighes a short skeine hanging point downe before and a mantle most times cast ouer their heads The women wore their haire plated in curious manner hanging downe their backes and shoulders from vnder soulden wreathes of fine linnen rolled about their heads rather loading the wearer then delighting the beholder for as the one was most seemely so the other was vnsightly their neckes were hung with chaines and carkaneths their armes wreathed with many bracelets and ouer their side-garments the shagge rugge mantles purfled with a deepe Fringe of diuers colours both sexes accounting idlenesâ—e their onely libertie and ease their greatest riches 19 In warres they were forward and fought with battle-axes whose bearers were called Galloglasses the common Souldier but lightly armed who serued with darts and sharpe skeines their Trumpet was a Bagge-pipe and word for encounter Pharroh which at the first onset with great acclamation they vttered and he that did not was taken into the ayre and carried into the vale of Kerrâ— where transformed as they did beleeue he remained vntill he was hunted with Hounds from thence to his home 20 For the dying and dead they hired women to mourne who expostulated with the sicke why he would die and dead at his Funerall such out-cries were made such clapping of hands such howlings and gestures that one would thinke their sorrowes vnrecouerable holding the opinion of Pythagoras for the soules departed 21 Their dyet in necessitie was slender feeding vpon water-cresses rootes mushromes shamrogh butter tempered with oat-meale milke whey yea and raw flesh the bloud being crushed out their vse was also to let their kine bloud which standing a while and comming to a ielly with butter they did eat as a very good dish 22 That the Gospell of Christ should be preached in Ireland by Iames the Apostle I will not affirme though Vincentius hath said it neither will I with the Scots bring the Ilands conuersion from a Christian woman who as their Historians doe auouch first instructed the Queene and the Queene her husband and he againe his Subiects till all became Christians But most true it is that the Scots first receiued the doctrine of Christ in this Kingdome of Ireland for thus writeth Prosper Coelestin Pope of Rome sent his Archdeacon Palladius into Britaine to withstand the Pelagian heresie who at one time did driue out these enemies of grace and ordained a Bishop among the Scots whereby that barbarous Nation embraced Christianitie Yet Ninius reporteth that Palladius did nothing in neither being taken away by vntimely death but that S. Patricke borne at Eâ—burne in Cluedsdale the sonne of Calphurus by the sister of S. Martin was the first Apostle for Ireland who sowed his heauenly seede with such plentifull increase that the soile it selfe shortly was called Sanctorum Patria the Country of Saints for whose Sepulchre after his death rose as great variance as was for Homer amongst them of Greece they of Downe challenged his graue to be with them vpon certaine Verses written on a Tombe which ascribes Patricke Briget and Columbe to be buried therein they of Armagh lay claime by the warrant of S. Bernard who saith that Patricke in his life time there ruled and after death there rested Glascenbury in England by ancient records will haue his bodie interred with them and Scotland auoucheth his birth to be at Glasco and bones to rest at Kirk-Patricke with them of such reuerent esteeme was this Irish Apostle THE PROVINCE OF MOVNSTER CHAPTER II. THis Prouince called in Irish Mown in a more ordinary construction of speech Wown in Latine Momonia and in English Mounster lieth open South ward to the Verginian Sea North-ward it affronteth part of Connaught The East is neighboured by Lâ—iâ—ster and the West is altogether washed with the West Ocean 2 The length thereof extended from Ballatimore-Bay in her South vnto the Bay of Galway in her North are about nintie miles Her broadest part from East to West is from Waterford-Hauen to Feriter Hauen and containeth an hundred miles The whole circumference by following the prometaries and indents are aboue fiue hundred and fortie miles 3 The forme thereof is quadrant or foure-square The 〈◊〉 milde and temperate neither
too chilling cold not too scorching hot The soyle in some parts is hilly looking 〈◊〉 with wooddy wilde and solitary mountaines yet the vallies below are garnished with Corne-fields And generally all both pleasant for fight and fertile for soile 4 This Prouince is at this day diuided into two parts that is the West Mounster and the South Mounster The West Mounster was inhabited iâ— old 〈◊〉 by the 〈◊〉 the Velabri and the Vteriâ—â— the South Mounster by the Oudiâ—â— or 〈◊〉 and the Coriâ—ndi The Velabri and 〈◊〉 are said by Orosius to haue dwelt in that part of the Country where it lyeth outmost Westward and passing towards the Cantabrian Ocean looketh a farre off to Gallitia in Spaine The Luceni of Ireland who seeme to haue deriued their name and originall from the Lucenâ—â— of Gallâ—tia and of whom there still remaine some reliques in the Barony of Lyxnoâ—â— are supposed to haue bin seated in those parts that lie neighbouring vpon the banke of the Riuer Shemon 5 The generall Commodities of this Prouince are Corne Cattle Wood Wooll and Fish The last whereof it affords in euery place plenty abundance of all sorts But none so well knowne for the store of Herrings that are taken there as is the Promontory called Eraugh that lies betweene Bantre and Ballatimore Bay whereunto euery yeare a great Fleet of Spaniards and Portugals resort euen in the middest of Winter to fish also for Cods 6 The principall Citie of the Prouince is Limericke which the Irish call Loumeagh compassed about with the famous Riuer Shennon by the parting of the Channell This is a Bishops See and the very Mart-Towne of Mounster It was first wonne by Reymond le Grosse an Englishman afterwards burnt by Duncnald an Irish petty King of Thuetmond Then in processe of time Philip Breos an Englishman was infeoffed in it and King Iohn fortified it with a Castle which he caused therein to be built In this Castle certaine Hostages making their abode in the yeare 1332 grew as is reported so full of pride and insolency that they flew the Constable thereof and seized the Castle into their owne hands But the resolute Citizens that could neither brooke nor beare with such barbareus crueltie did in reuenge then shew such manly courage and viuacitie as they soone after recouered the Castle againe repaying the Hostages in such hostile manner as that they put them all to the sword without partialitie The position of this Towne is by Mercator placed for Latitude 53. degrees 20. minutes and for Longitude 9. degrees and 34. minutes Neere vnto the Riuer that Ptolemy calleth Daucona and Giraldus Cambrensis by the alteration of some few letters nameth Sauranus and Sauarenus which issueth out of Muskerey Mountaines is seated the Citie Corke graced also with another Episcopall dignitie and with the Bishops See of Clon annexed vnto it which Giraldus calleth Corragia the Englishmen Corke the natiue Inhabitants of the Country Coreach This Towne is so beset on euery side with neighbouring molesters as that they are still constrained to keepe watch and ward as if there lay continuall siege against it The Citizens of this place are all linkt together in some one or other degree of affinitie for that they dare not match their daughters in marriage into the Country but make contracts of matrimony one with another among themselues In this place that holy and religious man Briock is said to haue his birth and breeding who flourished among the Gaules in that fruitfull age of Christianitie and from whom the Diocesse of Sanbrâ—och in Britaine Armorua commonly called S Brieu had the denomination 7 The Citie which the Irish and Britaines call Porthlargy and the English Waterford though it be last in place yet is it not least in account as being the second Citie of all Ireland as well for the conuenience and commodiousnesse of the Hauen that affords such necessary aptitude for trade and traffique as also for the faithfull loyaltie which it hath alwayes shewed to the Imperiall Crowne of England for euer since it was wonne by Richard Earle of Pembrookâ— it still performed the obedience and peaceable offices of dutie and seruice vnto the English as they continued their course in the conquest of Ireland whence it is that the Kings of England haue from time to time endowed it with many large Franchises and Liberties which King Henry the seauenth did both augment and confirme 8 Although since the time of S. Patricke Christianitie was neuer extinct in this Country yet the gouernment being haled into contrary factions the Nobility lawlesâ—e and the multitude wilfull it hath come to passe that Religion hath waxed with the temporall common sort more cold and feeble being most of them very irreligious and addicted wholly to superstitious obseruations for in some parts of this Prouince some are of opinion that certaine men are yearely turned into Wolues and made Wolfe-men Though this hath beene constantly affirmed by such as thinke their censures worthy to passe for currant and credible yet let vs suppose that happily they be possessed with the disease and maladie that the Physicians call Lycanthropy which begetteth and engendreth such like phantasies through the malicious humours of Melancholy and so oftentimes men imagine themselues to be turned and transformed into formes which they are not Some againe embrace another ridiculous opinion and perswade themselues that he who in the barbarous acclamation and outcry of the Souldiers which they vse with great forcing and straining of their voices when they ioyne battaile doth not howte and make a noise as the rest doe is suddenly caught from the ground and carried as it were flying in the ayre out of any Country of Ireland into some desert vallies where he feedeth vpon grasse drinketh water hath some vse of reason but not of speech is ignorant of the present condition he stands in whether good or bad yet at length shall be brought to his own home being â—aught with the helpe of Hounds and Hunters Great pitie that the foule fiend and father of darknesse should so grieuously seduce this people with misbeliefe and that these errours be not chased away with the truth of Christian Religion whereby as they carry much grace in their countenances they may also not be void of the inward grace of their soules and vnderstanding 9 This Prouince hath beene fore wasted in the rebellions of Desmond to whose ayde Pope Gregory the thirteenth and Philip King of Spaine sent certaine companies of Italians and Spaniards who arriued not farre from Dingle fortified themselues gaue it the name of Fort de Ore founding loud threats against the whole Country But Aâ—â—â—ur 〈◊〉 Grey Lord Deputie of Ireland at the first onset decided their quarrell by sheathing his sword in their bowels and Desmond fearefully flying into the woods was by a Souldier cut shorter by the head And againe when the Kingdome of Ireland lay bleeding and put almost to the hazard of the last
of Cattle and with meane husbandry and tillage yeelding plentie of Corne As euery particular part is thus seuerally profitable by in-bred commodities so is it no lesse commended in the generalitie for the many accomodate and fit Bayes Creekes and nauigable Riuers lying vpon her Sea-coasts that after a sort inuite and prouoke the Inhabitants to nauigation 5 Such as in ancient time made their abode and habitations in this Prouince were the GANGANI who were also called CONCANI AVTERI and NAGNATAE As the Luceni that were next neighbours vnto them came from the Luceniji in Spaine so those Gangam and Coneani may seeme also to haue fetcht their deriuation from the Concan Nation of the selfe-same Country both by the affinitie of name and vicinitie of place In Strabo according to the diuersitie of reading the same people are named Coniaci and Conisci and Silius testifieth them at the first to haue beene Scythians and to haue vsed ordinarily to drinke horses bloud a thing nothing strange among the wilde Irish euen of late dayes And some may also happily suppose that the Irish name Conaughty was compounded of Concani and Nagnatae Howsoeuer it is sure that these were the ancient Inhabitants of this Country as is to be seene in Ptolemie 6 The principall Citie of this Prouince and which may worthily be accounted the third in Ireland is Galway in Irish Galliue built in manner much like to a Tower It is dignified with a Bishops See and is much frequented with Merchants by reason whereof and the benefit of the Road and Hauen it is gainfull to the Inhabitants through traffique and exchange of rich commodities both by Sea and Iland Not farre from which neere the West shoare that lies indented with small in-lets and out lets in a row are the Ilands called Arran of which many a foolish fable goes as if they were the Ilands of the liuing wherein none died at any time or were subiect to moralitie which is as supersitious an obseruation as that vsed in some other corners of the Country where the people leaue the right armes of their Infants males vnchâ—stned as they terme it to the end that at any time afterwards they might giue a more deadly and vngracious blow when they strike which things doe not onely shew how palpably they are carried away by traditious obscurities but doe also intimate how full their hearts be of inueterate reuenge 7 This â—ouince presents no matter more worthy of memory then the battle of Knoe-toe that is The â—ull of axes vnder which the greatest rabble of Rebels that were euer seene before in Ireland raised and gathered together by the Arch-Rebels of that time William Burk O Brien Mac-Nomare and O-Carrol were after a bloudy ouerthrow discomfited and put to flight by the noble seruice of Girald Fâ—â—z-Gâ—rald Earle of â—ildare And the suppression of certaine Irish the posteritie of Mac-William who vsurping a tyrannie in these parts raged sometimes vpon themselues with mutuall iniuries and oppressed the poore people a long time with extorting pilling and spoiling so as they left scarce one house in the Country vnrifled or vnrased but were bridled and repressed euen in our remebrance by the seueritie and resolution of the Commissioner of those their vniust doings would be a meanes to draw the people away from the due obedience to their Prince such therefore as refused to obey the lawes and sided with the tumultuous with all care and diligence he soone scattered forcing their Forts and driuing them into woods and lurking holes for troubling the blessed estate of tranquilitie till the Lord Deputie who tooke pitie of them vpon their humble supplication commanded by his missiues that they should be receiued vpon tearmes of peace But they being a stiffenecked people tooke armes againe entred a-fresh into actuall rebellion draue away booties made foule vprores and vpon faire promises procured the aid of the Scottish Ilanders from out of the Hebrides whereupon the Gouernour assembled an Armie and pursued them with such powerfull violence through the Woods and Forrests that after sixe or seauen weekes being grieuously hunger-bitten they submitted themselues in all humilitie The Auxiliarie Forces also of the Scots he by day and night affronted so neere and followed so hardly that he put them to flight after he had killed and drowned about three thousand of them in the Riuer Moin 8 About the yeare 1316. there was such a great slaughter made of the Irish in this Prouince of Connaught through a quarrell that arose there betweene two Lords or Princes that there were slaine on both sides about foure thousand men and so great a tribulation at that time came vpon the people that they did deuoure and eat one another so as of 10000. there remained not aboue 200. liuing And it is reported for truth that the people were then so hunger-starued that in Church-yards they tooke the dead bodies out of their graues and in their sculs boiled the flesh and fed vpon it yea and that women did eat their owne children Thus appeared the ire and anger of God in punishing their sinnes and seeking their conuersion 9 Places memorable are Inis Ceath well knowne by the Monastery of Colman a deuout Saint founded for Scots and Englishmen and Inis Bouind which Bede calleth White Calse Isle Also Maâ—o a Monastery built as Bede writeth for thirtie men of the English Nation Likewise the Barony of Boile vnder Carlew hilles where in times past was a famous Abbey built together with the Abbey of Beatitude in the yeare of grace 1152 These Abbeyes and Monasteries erected at the first for religious seruices and through ignorance and other obseurities diuerted since vnto superstitious vses are now made the ruines of time THE PROVINCE OF VLSTER CHAPTER V. THis Prouince called by our Welsh-Britaines Vltw in Irish Cui Guilly in Latine Vltonia and Vlidia in English Vâ—sier on the North is diuided by a narrow Sea from Scotland South-ward it extends it selfe to Connagh and Leinster the East part lieth vpon the Irish Sea and the West part is continually beaten with the boisterous rage of the maine West Ocean This Prouince and furthest part of Ireland affronteth the Scotish Ilands which are called the Hebrides and are scattered in the Seas betweene both Kingdomes whose Inhabitants at this day is the Irish-Scot successour of the old Scythian 2 The forme thereof is round reaching in length from Coldagh-Hauen in her North to Kilmore in her South neere an hundred miles and in bredth from Black-Abbey in her East to Calebegh point in her West one hundred thirtie and odde miles The whole in circumference about foure hundred and twentie miles 3 This Country seldome feeleth any vnseasonable extremities the quicke and flexible windes cooling the heat of Summer and soft and gentle showers mollifie the hardnesse of the Winter Briefly the frozen nor torrid Zone haue not here any vsurpation the clouds in the aire very sweet and pleasant yea and when they are most