which are yellow Flowers set on the top of a Stalk like those of wild Lotus after which succeed little Cods with Seed in shape much resembling Caterpillars turn'd round together when touch'd 2. Limonium reticulatum This is a little Limonium which hath very small Leaves close to the ground but sends out several Branches a handful or two high divided and formed into many small Twigs that it much resembles a Net Whether it hath any Flower succeeding it I did not find 3. Syderitis Spinosa 4. Sicordica legitima Clusii 5. Beupleurum angustifolium 6. Prunella flore albo 7. Centaurium minus flore albo White-flower'd Centaury 8. Nasturtium marinum 9. Herniaria 10. Draba Siliquosa Caerulea Cretica 11. Doricnium Narbonense 12. Doricnium Congener Like the other only it is a shrub and perennial 13. Convolvulus rectus argenteis foliis or Cantabrica Plinii It is a small Plant of two handfuls high set here and there with narrow Silver-colour'd Leaves and on the top hath reddish Flowers like the ordinary Convolvulus 14. Polium Creticum 15. Pentaphyllium rectum Agrimoniis foliis 16. Asclepias flore albo and many others which I omit because I had observ'd them before in other places of France and Italy Hard by this Island upon the shore of Istria is Ruigna situated upon a little Peninsula and inhabited altogether by Sea-men who are most of them profess'd Pilots and for their encouragement all Ships whether Venetians or Strangers are obliged to touch there and to take a profess'd Pilot of this place to Steer them over the Flats that are before the entrance into the Venetian Harbours which are very difficult and dangerous I heard the Pilot say that conducted the Vessel I return'd in that it had sometimes but half a Foot and sometimes not above an Inch of Water below its Keel Ruigna hath a very good and secure Haven and that by nature without the help of Art The Country about it is fruitful in excellent Wines and Oyl which may be the reason that there are so many decrepit persons there strong Wine being the producer of Gouts and Sciatica's The Women wear Fardingals here after the Spanish fashion The Town is not big but seems populous and is a Bishop's see Lib. j. I. fig The next day early we parted from St. Andrè but the Sea running high although there was but little Wind which the Mariners told us was usual in those Seas about the Change of the Moon as then it was we put in at Pola about ten Miles from St. Andrè IMP. CAESARI SEPTIMIO SERVERO .. H ... PIO FELICI INVICTO AUG RESP. POL. D.N.M.E. Pola is one of the most ancient Cities of Istria Pola situated at the farther end of a little Bay which makes a most secure and spacious Port every way Land-lock'd But those that look upon the small number of its Inhabitants at present scarcely amounting to seven or eight Hundred would hardly credit its former greatness without such eminent Marks of its Antiquity as still remain That it hath been a Free-State or Commonwealth we found upon the Pedestal of a Statue of the Emperour Severus whereon is engraven the Dedication by Respublica Polensis or the Commonwealth of Pola The marks of its greatness are its Amphitheater Triumphant-Arch and Temple dedicated to Rome and Augustus Caesar Authors agree not concerning its first beginning The Poet Callimachus affirms it was a Colony of Cholcis who pursued the Argonauts by Sea whom having lost in the pursuit and not daring to return to their King they voluntarily banished themselves their Country and planted this Wherefore their City was called Pola which signifieth if we may believe Strabo a banished people Nor can they agree what way they took to come to this place Some will have it that they came by the Euxin-Sea up the Danube formerly called Ister which made them give the name of Istria to the Country they came to inhabit and that they afterwards sail'd in the Adriatick-Sea with the same Vessels a thing impossible unless they carried them upon their shoulders the Danube having no communication with the Venetian-Gulph Yet that they were a Colony of some of the Graecians may be concluded from their main money still coyned with the name of their Country in Greek Letters of which I have seen several but especially one of undoubted antiquity in the curious Collection of the Earl of Peterborough c. which hath stamped on the one side two young faces reversed to each other and on the other an Eagle preying on a Dolphin with these Letters circumscrib'd ΙΣΤΡΙΗΑ Istriea Med. 1 2. But however the Antiquities that now remain are of no ancienter date than the Roman Emperors as they themselves testifie The chief of them are these First the Temple of Augustus the front of which is sustained by four Corinthian Pillars of a curious speckled Marble and upon the Architrave is the Dedication written viz. CIT AUGUSTO CAESARI DIVI F. III. VIRI TRIBUNIC POTEST To Rome and Augustus Caesar as before said There is also the ruins of another hard by and the Dome or Cathedral Church seemeth to be built upon another by the ruins about it and ancient Stones compiled in the building The Font for holy Water hath been an ancient Fountain of white Marble four square At each side the Water flowed over and made a pretty Cascade descending by several degrees first running over Nimphs on the two opposite sides and two Scallop-shells on the other two opposite The Triumphal-Arch was built in honour of one Caius Sergius by his Wife Salvia Posthuma and was adorned with his and others of the Families Statues as may be judged by the form of it It is of the Corinthian-order of White Marble But is now become only the East-gate to the Town though formerly one of the Principal Ornaments thereof The Amphitheater is without the Town northwards and wants much of the Greatness either of that of Rome or that of Verona It is of the Tuscan-order and is judged to have had no other seats within than of wood Beside these we found some Sepulchral-Monuments of lesser note which if they be thought worth it I shall make publick hereafter It hath a Cittadel upon a Rock within the Walls but inconsiderable for strength It hath plenty of Provisions and good Water The long slip of Rocks South of it though barren enough is notwithstanding stored with many curious Plants These I observed 1. Acacia Poetarum 2. Crista galli flore purpureo 3. Trifolium Saxatile Hirsutissimum 4. Genista Montana Arborescens 5. Polygala recentiorum 6. Leucoium Patavinum 7. Pentaphyllon incanum that which Gerard gives for this hath but three leaves but this hath five 8. Cordilium Creticum 9. Secoridaca flore albo c. On Saint John Baptist's day in the morning we tried to get out of the Harbour but the Wind being contrary and higher than we thought while we were in that calm Port we were forced to
taken for Ithaca one of the principal Isles of Ulysses his Kingdom and is placed there by Sanson and Sophianus But they may be deceived For Strabo speaking of Ithaca gives it but eighty Stadia about which maketh about ten Italian miles and this Island is at least the double Therefore I believe that Ithaca is another little Island seven or eight miles from hence called yet Ithaca which is much less than this I believe anciently called Dulichium because it hath at the East-side a Port with the Ruins of a Town called yet Dolichia as Strabo observed it was called in his time which to me is satisfaction enough though Strabo notwithstanding seemeth to favour those that take Thiaki for Ithaca But perhaps Strabo himself did not know the true situation the ancient names being in his time changed For lastly if we have recourse to what Homer hath said of it it seemeth that Dulichium was none of the Isles Echinades as the Geographers after-him have judged however it is a question not so easily decided Two English Ships go yearly to this Thiaki to lade Currans The Isle is cultivated by the Inhabitants who are reduced to three Villages called Onoi Vathi and Oxia In a Wood there are to be seen the Ruins of an old Castle which the Islanders tell you was the Palace of Ulysses As to the Isle Ithaca it is desert and those of Thiaki go thither to till it in its seasons The Isle of Cephalonia in Homer's time was called Samos and had a Town of that name which should not have been far from the Port Pescarda of which we have already spoken Cephalonia was the greatest Island of Ulysses his Kingdom and I wonder that Strabo maketh it not above Three hundred Stadia in circuit which amount but to Thirty-eight Italian miles and Pliny no more than Forty-four miles although indeed it hath more than a hundred and twenty miles in compass But I will not find fault with the ancient Geographers since our Moderns who beside the old Geography have the relations of the ages since do notwithstanding make most gross mistakes in their Maps of these parts Of Saint Mauro he continueth thus Since we are in the Kingdom of Ulysses let us not quit it so soon but speak something of the Island Saint Mauro St. MAURO This Island was anciently called Leucada and the Modern Greeks call it so yet for the Castle only is properly called Saint Mauro from a Convent which stood there whilest it was under the Venetians Returning to Venice we were obliged to touch at a Port of it CLIMENO called Climeno which is the best in the Island having good Depth and Anchoridge From thence the phansie took us to go see the Fortress and to that end took a Boat called Monoxylo to carry us thither We rowed four or five hours in the narrow Channel that separates it from the Continent before we arrived at it Strabo-saith that it was anciently joyned to the Land and that this Streight was dug to separate it which is likely enough For in the streightest part it doth not much exceed fifty paces over and almost everywhere three or four foot of water It is in this narrowest part of the Streight that the ancient City Leucada had its situation upon an Eminence a mile from the Sea of which some Remains are yet to be seen having for its Port the whole Channel especially those Parts where there was Water enough Ortelius and Ferrarius are mistaken in believing that this City was where now Saint Mauro stands They have not been upon the place to find that Saint Mauro is three miles from thence in the middle of the Channel where it is a League over The Fortress is good and hath some round Bastions situated upon a very low ground But that which renders it considerable is that it neither can be approached to by Land nor Sea unless in those Monoxylo's or little Barques which draw not above a foot of water It is separated by a ditch of thirty or forty foot wide from two little Islands which are as the Suburbs to the Fortress and are inhabited by Turks and Greeks Their Houses are very low and built of wood But to make amends they themselves go very well cloathed and are great Pirats in those Seas The Basha of the Morea came thither this year on purpose to burn their Galliots or little Gallies whereof Durag Beg a famous Pirate of Lepanto had formerly seven or eight under his Command We left our little Boat ashore and went to Saint Mauro on an Aqueduct a mile long which serveth as a Bridge for those that will go thither on foot though it be not above a yard broad and without any hold which would make the stoutest man tremble in passing it especially if he meet any other thereon For it is as much as two can do to pass by one another There is above Five or six thousand Inhabitants in the Cittadel and Suburbs But we had made but very hard cheer there without the Fish we carried with us for we found nothing there but bad Wine bad Bread and worse Cheese There are about Thirty Villages in the Island inhabited by poor Greeks that manure the Land and catch Fish Being under the Jurisdiction of a Bishop whose Revenues apparently are but mean The Isle is fruitful enough in Corn Oranges Limons Almonds and Pasture for their Cattel and is about Thirty or Forty miles in compass The Castle of Saint Mauro is not above a dozen miles from the Gulph of Ambracia now called the Gulph de L'arta near which was the renowned City Actium famous for the Battle of Augustus Caesar against Mark-Antony but at present there is no more talk of this City Not being willing to go thither we discoursed an Understanding man of L'arta who assured us that L'arta or Arta was not Ambracia L'ARTA as our Geographers do warrant But that the City of Ambracia which gave name to this Gulph is above a days journey from thence and is yet called by the Country people Ambrakia though now but a Village about a mile from the Sea just in the bottom of the Bay That there is a Kanne there which serveth for a Warehouse for the Merchandises that are brought thither That the Town Arta is at least sixteen miles from thence upon the River which probably is the Acheron of the Ancients and which according to Pliny dischargeth it self into the Gulph of Ambracia Vouro-potami is the Vulgar name of a River which one passeth coming towards Ambracia and is without dispute that which in times past was called Aracthus although it pass not so near the Town Ambracia now perhaps being bigger in old time it extended it self even to it The mouth of this Gulph is not above a mile and half wide although it is above Threescore miles about On the left hand there is a Fortress of Turks not quite so well peopled as Saint Mauro It
near the Port called Therma It hath but two Villages as our Pilot who is native of the place informed us We plied still Northwards and passed between Macronisa and Suda Monday morning the Ninth we approached near Tine TENOS and dropped Anchor about noon in a Bay on the South-side thereof there being no Port on that side of the Island Tine was anciently called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as by some Medals we found there it appeared which on one side bear the Head of Jupiter Hammon and on the other a bunch of Grapes Med. 15 16 17 18. denoting its plenty of Wine with these Letters T H. Another I saw at Paris amongst the King of France's Collections which had on the one side the Head of the Emperor Alexander Severus and on the other a Trident wreathed about with a Serpent with these Letters about it ΤΗÎΙΩΠbecause here was a noble Temple dedicated to Neptune where as Strabo relateth the adjacent Islands used to perform the Ceremonies of their Religious Superstition The whole Island lieth high being a large heap of Marble Rocks but in many places covered with a fertile soil On the South-shore was its ancient City where nothing now remains but two or three houses called still 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the City Here are some ancient Remains and an Inscription which sheweth it to have belonged to the Monument of Flavius Evergetes erected by his Wife Hence we ascended near four miles to a pointed Rock in the middle of the Island whereon now is its chief City and Castle As we passed we took notice of its plenty of Vineyards Figs and Olives They say they have Corn but not to spare rather wanting the help of other parts by reason they are so very populous this being now the only Island in the Archipelago that have defended themselves from the Turks and the last in those parts under the Dominion of the Venetians with whom the Inhabitants have made this agreement viz. That whensoever they cannot or will not protect them any longer they shall be obliged to deliver the Castle to the Inhabitants who are to have the freedom to chuse whom they will for their Protector There are Twenty-four Villages about the Island which can in time of necessity retire commodiously to this Castle it being in the midst of them and having great advantages of nature to defend it self from any sudden assault though I believe scarce able to stand out a considerable Siege for want of Water and Provision The Castle is on the highest point of the Rock surrounded by the Towns something lower than it and not only over-looketh the whole Island but almost all the Archipelago which afforded our curiosity a most delightful prospect of the same Hence to the Nor-West we saw Andros beyond that Euboea now called Negroponte by the Franks and more Westerly Zea. Beyond that Macronisa anciently Helena At a greater distance further we could discern Capo di Colouxi anciently called Promontorium Sunicum the most Southern Promontory of all Attica We saw to the Southward besides Thermia Seriphus c. two Islands they now call Sdilles or the two Deloses Rhenea and Delos to the West Micone The Inhabitants of Tine employed themselves in VVorking their own Silk and that of Andros but they are no great Artists in that Trade The women knit great part of it into Stockings and sell them very cheap Silk is worth about six or seven shillings the pound There is plenty of fresh water about the Island although not in the Town and it did therefore bear the name sometime of Hydrissa The Plants I took notice of more particularly here were these 1. Limonium or as Gerard calleth it Limonion Ger. p 412. folio sinuato or Sea-lavender with indented leaves where I believe either his Printer or he is mistaken in the naming it folio sinuato for caule sinuato 2. Another Thorny shrub which I know not under what species to rank unless Jacea It rifeth from the ground in a thick round bush its branches hard and woody dividing it self still into an infinite number of other small branches which terminate in Thorns amongst which are many jagged leaves of an Ash colour and with small scaly heads filled when blown with a stringy white flower in all respects like Jacea but much less It was now in seed but I saw it after in flower at Athens in the Spring of the year 3. A kind of small Stachys with silver leaves and 4. a kind of Genista Spinosa with red flowers which I find not any where described or mentioned Our Ships being to stay here some days to discharge themselves of the Goods of the new General of this place who if I remember rightly beareth the Title of General of the Archipelago though my companion calleth him only Proveditore and also to take in the baggage of his Predecessor who was to return to Corfu with half of our Fleet we resolved not to let so good an opportunity slip without seeing the anciently so renowned Island of Delos which we had in view not above eight or ten miles from Tine We hired a Bark with four Oars and had the company of two other Gentlemen whose curiosity was the same with ours The one was Monsieur Angrand Nephew to the French Embassador at Constantinople The other Monsieur Salli a Flemmish Gentleman and for our Guide one Signior Nicolo Crescentio of Tine D. D. who had studied at Rome and understood the History of this Country well and had often been at Delos when the antiquities thereof were not so much defaced as now they are This Gentleman with great civility offered us his company to shew us the Island The Wind being fair and a brisk gale we soon passed over to the Isle Rhencia now called Great Delos being the nearest opposite to Port Saint Nicolo where our Fleet lay and thence passing Eastward we crossed a little Bay which they say is a good Road large and deep enough for Ships of the greatest burthen From the further Cape of it we passed a Channel of about half a mile over according as Strabo affirmeth it to be to Delos Lib j Fig XII DELOS INSVLA N. SDILES This Island is but small not exceeding five or six miles about DELOS twice as long as broad lieth low but rocky and consequently barren It hath the Island Rhenia Westward the Southern parts of Micone East and the Channel between Micone and Tine to the North. It is utterly disinhabited now and called Little Delos or Zdeli in the plural number comprehending the Isle Rheneia which is a corruption of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which being not observed by Strangers hath been the occasion of mistakes in many Modern names of places in these Countries reported by our late Travellers Geographers and Mariners Now the great reason why it was so celebrated among the Ancients was because it was the reputed Birth-place of Apollo as Pindar Homer and Callimachus tell
We searched about for the Grotto of the God Pan in old times very much celebrated in these parts but could neither find it nor hear any news of it From hence it would have been our nearer way to Negropont to have gone directly on but they told us there was no way thence over the Mountain Nosea for that coming along from the Mountain Pentelicus it ends here towards the Sea in unpassable Rocks and Precipices We were therefore forced to return as far back as Marathon to recover our way to Negropont MARATHON Marathon is now but a pitiful ruined Village which we thought not worth alighting to see therefore leaving it a little beyond it we began to go up the Mountain Nosea our way lying along the River I before spake of which here and there makes little Cataracts or falls of Water as it descendeth into the Plain What ancient name it had I know not unless Charadra whence the Town was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 After an hour and half 's riding from Marathon we passed by a ruined Village called Kalingi KALINGI upon the side of the Mountain and about as far more on the Plain on the top of the Mountain another called Capandritti CAPANDRITTI or Capodritti famous for good Wine One of these I believe was anciently the Town Oenoa of which the Proverb 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Thence we proceed almost to the highest point of the Mountain by an easie ascent an hours riding further Whence I saw the highest point of Mount Hymettus and Pentelicus Southwards the Gulf of Negropont or Euripus North Mount Casha or Parnes Westwards On this Mountain is a large Plain bounded with the high Mountains of Casha and its own highest Cliffs towards the Plain of Marathon being a great Portion or part of Diacria above-mention'd As to the ancient name of this Mountain although from Pentelicus hither I heard of no other present name that it hath then Nosea or Nozea yet I guess it had formerly two names First That part which reacheth from Vrania to Marathon and again from the Plain of Athens towards Parnes to have been called Brilessus and that Thucydides teacheth me saying Thucyd. p. 115. that the Lacedemonians being come with their Army into Attica by the Plains of Eleusis and Thryassius leaving Parnes on the left hand and Aegalis on the right pitched their Tents at Acharna and thence when they saw the Athenians would not come out to fight removing their Camp they spoiled some of their Towns between Parnes and Brilessus and so return'd by Oropus and Boeotia Whence it is plain that this part at least of Nozea confining upon Parnes was called anciently Brilessus As to the other part of this Mountain beyond Marathon to the Gulph of Negropont it is not so clear yet I believe it went by another name in times past first because it lay not so near the Lacedemonians way to Oropus as this which they must necessarily pass over to go thither And then it seems naturally to be severed at Marathon by the River whence it riseth still higher and higher towards the North end and also towards the South making two distinct Ridges but chiefly because I know not where to place the Mountain Lycobettus but here and that with some probability from the name Lycabetus which seemeth to be derived either from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying a Wolf with which the desart and rocky places of this Mountain might be infested or lastly from Lycus second Son to Pandion King of Athens whose Heritage left him by the King his Father was all that Mountainous Country lying towards the Island of Euboea and was called Diacria and Huperdiacria and therefore most likely the Mountain bearing his name was in his Country From the top of this Mountain we descended about an hour and more along a torrent and came by that time it was dark to a Town on the side of the Mountain called Marcopoli The Inhabitants of this place were once not long since about to run away for Poverty and Debt But the Benignity of the Captain Basha who alloweth them the third of their labour and the ground hath hitherto kept about fifty or three-score Families of them together to inhabit there By some fragments of Antiquity still remaining This place should have been in ancient times more considerable than now it seems Perhaps it was Hyttania afterwards called Tetrapolis because it had four Towns under it viz. Marathon Probalinthus Tricorithus and Oinea For so I understand Stephanus Byzantinus although others take it to be no particular Town or City but all the four Towns jointly to be called by that common name Tetrapolis But these seem not to have read far enough in the Lexicon nor to consider what Stephens there quoteth out of Androsion 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Androsion saith it is called Tetrapolis by reason of the four Towns above-named But that it self was called in times before Hyttania The next day we parted early and descending yet lower on the side of the Mountain we came to the shore of Euripus along which continuing our way two hours and a halfs riding we came to the mouth of the River Asopus which we had formerly passed over in our way to Athens from Thebes but was now there so swelled with the Rains that had fallen from the Mountain Parnes that we could not pass it over on Horseback Therefore we continued our way along the Banks till we came to Oropo OROPUS a large Town consisting I believe of two hundred Houses This was undoubtedly the ancient Town Oropus in the Confines of Attica and Boeotia so much contested for between the Athenians and Thebans It is situated two or three Miles from the Sea upon the Attick side of the River Thycydidis lib. 2. the Region about it being formerly called Pyrace and is I believe the narrow Plain under Parnes and Lycobettus on the Southside of the Asopus About two or three Miles further being Noon we passed over the River Asopus by a Ferry to a Village called Scamino And then we judged our selves quite out of the Athenian Territories And again in Boeotia Scamino is a Town almost as big as Oropus SCAMINO and is situated on the other side of the River under a steep Hill North-East of it whereon I believe also the greatest part of the ancient Town was built My Companion thinks that it was called in times past Sycaminon as I guess from Laurenburgius But I know not their reason I believe it to have been a place more considerable than such an obscure Village if such a one there ever was for I can no where find it The ancient Ruins of this place shew it to have been a large City The Greeks have yet many Churches in it among the rest Hagioi seranda or the Church of Forty Saints Panagia and Hagios Elias which are built out of ancient Ruins among which we observed some Inscriptions By
the more particular in my Observations of it and shall give the best account of it I can Which that I may do to be the better understood I shall first give an account of the situation of the Lake and the Plain in which it is stagnated and then of the several Passages out of the Water of the Lake into the Euboean Sea This Lake is now called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Lake of Livadia but by Strabo Copais and by Pausanias Cephissis It is situate on the North-side of that large Plain which is call'd by the same name of Livadia which is stretched out between the Plain of Thebes and the Town Livadia the whole Perimeter of which Country and Lake is so encompassed with high Hills and Mountains so joined one to another that there is not so much as space for the many streams and torrents that arise under and fall from them to pass out above ground into the Sea So that had not the Wisdom of the Creator provided at several places certain subterraneous Passages as Chanels to receive and suck in the Waters which in so great abundance at times do flow and pour down these Mountains and were not those Chanels either by nature or art and industry of men kept open and cleansed all Boeotia must necessarily in a short space of time be drowned and made nothing but a great Lake or standing Water For beginning first at Parnes that Mountain is join'd to Cithaeron Cithaeron is join'd to Helicon Helicon to Parnassus Parnassus to Mount Oeta that to Cnemis Cnemis to the Cyrtonum Mons That to Ptoos Ptoos to Messapius Messapius to Cerycius and that again to Parnes Which Mountains although all or most of them be well enough distinguished from each other by certain Chasms or Openings between them yet are they all so tacked and link'd together by High-Grounds that before the Waters could find Passage any way into the Sea above ground the whole Country below them must unavoidably be drowned which perhaps was one great reason of Deucalions Flood in which these parts seem chiefly concerned But beside this Circle of Mountains that encompass all Boeotia Phocis and great part of Locris there are other Mediterranean Mountains also which are tacked to one another in such sort that they divide the whole Country into several particular Vallies which from a high prospect look as if they were those places in the Earth the Gyants laid open when in their War with the Gods they plucked up Mountains by the Roots and set them upon one another intending to scale Heaven thereby For so is this Plain of Livadia divided from that of Thebes Eastward by the Mountain Phoenicius or Sphingis which joins Northwards to the Mountain Ptoos Southwards to certain Ridges which descend from Helicon From those high Mountains Helicon South-West Parnassus and Oeta North-West are poured down those quantities of Waters into this Plain which stagnating make the great Lake of Livadia by falling towards the Ridge of the Rocky Hills of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons against which the whole stress and fall of the Waters seems to lean but are by them as by a mighty Mound or Bank kept in from discharging themselves into the Euboean Sea Strabo counts this Lake no less than three hundred seventy one Stadia in Circumference which amounts to about forty seven Miles and a half But I believe it covers not so much ground at present For then in his time it had one passage out above ground into Hylica palus now called the Theban Lake But now the Waters are far lower than that Passage and therefore are to be thought very much abated The form of this Lake is long being stretched out under the Mountains of Thalanda or Cyrtonum Mons North-West and South-East as far as the Mountain Ptoos In the middle it is narrow but then enlarging it self again until it comes to be divided at the South-East end into three several Bayes At the two Northmost of these Bays are the principal Chanels in a wonderful manner pierced through the Mountains The whole mass whereof consists of a very hard stone considerably high and of a great extent in thickness though in some places it be greater and in others less the shortest Passage to the Sea being towards Thalanda and the North-West end of the Lake is at least four Miles through the Mountain Where this enters in under the Mountain is a Town called Palea situate towards the North-West end of the Lake where it riseth again on the other side near the Sea are those Mills I but now spake of about two hours riding from Thalanda This seems to be the place which Strabo calls Anchoe where the Town of Copais was also situated that gave the old name to this Lake and by the same rule on the Sea side where the Waters come out of the Lake should lye Larimna Superior or that of Locris where Strabo makes the Chanels to pass thirty Stadia or about four Miles under ground from Copais to Larimna The other Chanels I saw on the North-West end of the Lake are all a much greater distance from the Sea many of them passing at least half a days Journey under the Mountain Ptoos The Northmost of the two Bayes last mentioned divides it self again into three Bayes the first of which entreth under the Mountain by two Chanels the second and third by three Chanels apiece Another Bay also there is that divideth it self into many other little Bays and those again into Chanels Insomuch that I easily believe what an Albanese I met there told me to wit that there were at least fifty of these under-ground Chanels whereby the Lake emptieth it self into the Sea For I saw above half the number of them my self From Proscina hither a considerable part of our way lay along one of those Chanels in several places of which we saw holes down to it but could neither see nor hear the Water as it passed by reason the Chanel was every where close covered and much deeper When we came to ascend the steeper part of the Mountain we passed by ten or a dozen square Stone-Pits about a Furlong distant one from another which I found still deeper and deeper according to the rising of the Mountain until by the sound of the Stones I cast in I could not judge them less than fifty Fathom deep but I heard no sound of Water at the bottom The reason whereof I found because the Chanel which carries the Water lyeth covered deeper under them They are about four foot square a piece at the Mouth and cut out of the hard Rock of the Mountain From all which I began to be sensible of the vast labour cost and indefatigable industry that brought the whole work to such perfection For by such Pits as these the rest of the fifty Chanels were first made if made at all and are now upon occasion cleansed when ever they happen to be obstructed Pausanias saith that
communicated to the curious among the rest of our Remarks to make the account going under both our names as much the Relation of both as I could As to the matter contained in this Book I find no reason I have to be ashamed of it although I do not expect it should escape censure For I know some will say why does he treat us with insipid descriptions of Weeds and make us hobble after him over broken stones decayed buildings and old rubbish But these being things their curiosity does not extend to I should but trifle in giving them a serious Answer Others perhaps may not be pleased that I have made Divine Reflections on the various events of things and Phaenomena of nature As to men of this irreligious temper I make no other answer but that I design'd to write as a Christian Traveller and Philosopher and if my Book be unacceptable to them because it savours of my Religion they may leave it as they do their Bibles to others who will like it better upon that account As to the Title not only Gratitude but Justice also requires that I should join Monsieur Spon's name with mine since he did me the same respect in his and we made the Voyage together And in composing this Treatise I have all along had an Eye to his still comparing my notes with his having for the greatest part seen the same things which he did What I find Monsieur Spon hath omitted I have supplied and on the other side what material things I found I had neglected in my own Journal I added out of his Book if I well remembred them When I met with any things to be mistakes I have as freely corrected them and in dubious Criticisms I have given my own Opinion and Reason The Observations which I made and are not to be met with in Monsieur Spon are various and scattered throughout the whole Book But the chiefest are first the Plants I have described on which subject he hath not at all concerned himself My Map of Achaia also I have added which I made out of my own particular Observations I took on the places for that purpose Divers Medals and other Antiquities I have by me since sent from Athens to me and observed after we parted from each other as they lay in my method and made for my purpose I have inserted in this account As to the curious Plants I would have added more Cuts most of them which I have described being either unknown or very rare in our parts but indeed the Bookseller was very unwilling to be burthened with them the change of Graving being too great for his profit The Map of Achaia I have spoken of may need some things to be said in its behalf since the Position of the whole Scheme of it is so different from all the Maps of those parts we have extant to answer for which I will give an account of my Delineation of it being a way perhaps unusual in describing of Land-Maps The Observations I had made being taken by the help of a Mariners Needle from several stations on divers Mountains and eminent places of that Country I thereby easily reduced their Positions into Triangles and thereby could hardly miss of their natural situations nor yet to have a proportionable distance from one another according to a scale of parts proposed from any one or two several known distances Which though it be but an ordinary rule in surveighing yet in those Countries where from a Mountain one may see twenty thirty forty and fifty miles about it may prove of more use and certainty than all the rest of the Geographical Art of Longitudes in the World To this I had also the advantage of the Latitudes Mr. Vernon had with all exactness taken of the most eminent places contained therein as of Patras Delphus Thebes Chalcis or Egripo Corinth and Athens By adding which to the Observations made with the Needle I found I could not miss of much more exactness than ever could yet be arrived at by conjectural Longitudes whether of the ancient or modern Geographers For the Bearing of two places of different Latitudes being given one cannot miss of a proportionable distance according to the scale of Latitude if from the one you follow the Bearing to the Latitude of the other For there is but one individual point on a Plane that can be the same Latitude and the same Bearing from another Latitude As for Example Thebes is 38. D. 22. M. L. Chalcis is 38. D. 31. M. L. So there is nine Minutes difference in Latitude But the Bearing from Chalcis to Thebes is W. S. W. So a Scale of Latitudes being described by Parallel Lines and Chalcis being placed thereon in 38. D. 31. M. L. Draw a Line thence directly W. S. W. and wheresoever it cuts the line of Latitude 38. D. 22. M. there must be the point where Thebes must be situate For any other point or distance but that alters either the Latitude or Bearing against the Hypothesis When I had thus set down the places of principal note especially those Cities with the Mountains Rivers Promontories and Harbours the other places according to their Bearings and reputed distances of Miles from the first I regulated as well as I could Which so near as their reputed distances come to the truth so near must they be to the true Latitudes For this Rule serves both ways If you have the true Latitudes and the Bearings you have the true situation so if you have the true Latitude of one place and the true Bearings and distances thence to the places adjacent you have also the true Latitudes This Rule if it were well improved might produce Maps more exact than any we have yet had and make the much desired Longitude less valuable in Geography For this would give a true proportionable distance from place to place which is the thing so much pretended to by Longitudes but is more by chance than Science at any time if ever arrived to That this is practicable to particular Places and Countries I have given a proof and how it may be applicable to the general Geography of the World I will propose in two or three words and leave it to be improved and considered by those of better parts and more leisure than my self Suppose then only that two points of Position or Bearing were added to the two points of Latitude on the Globe and place them in two eminent places on the Equinoctial Line or on one only till we can come to the knowledge of its opposite point by more experience Let this be the Center of a Circle divided into 360. degrees which will serve both for the degrees of Latitude and for the degrees of Bearing From these Centers let Lines be drawn to every tenth degree to distinguish the points of Bearing and Parallel Lines to the Equator from every tenth degree to tenth degree to distinguish the Latitudes And these are all
whose Architrave is sustained by Corinthian Pillars of white Marble hath an Inscription shewing that it was built by the Emperour Jovianus after he was converted to the Christian Faith and had destroyed the Heathen Temples the meaning whereof in English is thus ΠΙϹΤΙΠΕΧΩΠΒΑϹΙΛΙΑΠΕΜΩΠΜΕÎΕ ΩΠϹΥÎΕ ΡΙΘΟΠΕΛΛΗÎΩΠΤΕΜΕÎΗ ΚΑΙ ΒΩΜΟΥϹ ΕΞΑΛΑΠΑΞΑϹ ϹΟΙ ΜΑΚΑΡ Î¥ ΨΙΜΙΔΟΠΤΟΠΔΙΕΡΟΠΕΚΤΙϹΑ ÎΗΟΠΧΕΙΡΟϹ ΑΠΟÎΤΙΔΑÎΑϹ ΤΟΒΙΑÎΟϹ ΕΔÎΟΠΑÎΑΚΤΙ J. Jovian having received the Faith Established the Kingdom of my Power and having destroyed the Heathen Temples and Altars have built to thee O thou blessed and most high King a holy Temple a gift of an unworthy hand It is built much after the ancient Greek fashion with a Dome in the middle and a Porch for the Catechumeni The other Church is built much after the former manner and hath an Inscription on it which Monsieur Spon thinketh to have been made about the sixth Century Count Marmero hath taken the pains to transcribe and interpret it It sheweth that it was built by one Stephanus Bishop of the place for the remission of his Sins On the South-West side of Paloeopoli about two or three miles off is a Plain well watered with several Brooks of fresh water which make the soil fruitful It is judged to have been the Gardens of Alcinous King of this place famous in Homer It is called now by the Virtuosi Chrysida and by the Country people Pezamili from some Mills that are there Here we were full of Homer especially his relation of the Kings daughter Nausica's adventure who going to Bathe her self with her Attendants met with Ulysses cast upon that shore by a Storm My Comerade telleth us Med. 12.13 that he had seen a Medal of this brave Dame at Balogna which he hath caused to be engraven as a great rarity I have therefore thought it worth the copying also The Inhabitants of Corfu are of a very revengeful nature never forgetting any injury done them which is often the ruin of whole Families For they espouse the quarrels of their Relations from generation to generation and persecute them till one of the Parties and sometimes both be utterly extinct They themselves confess and relate most barbarous adventures of this nature that have happened in the Island One I remember though not the names of the Actors of that Tragedy There happened a quarrel between two families upon no great occasion at first but at last was brought up to such a height that several persons were killed on both sides especially on his side who was the principal party offended This man dying left only a young Son to whom when he came to age several years after it was proposed that he should Marry a daughter of his Fathers enemy that so all differences might be ended and a lasting Peace made between the two families After much sollicitation he agreed to it so that a Dowry was concluded on and Married they were with a great deal of seeming joy But not long after having carried his new-married Wife home to his house and having thither invited her Parents Sisters Brothers and other Relations of hers he perswaded them to stay all night and barbarously Murder'd every one of them Wife and all After we knew what Ships were determined to go to Constantinople we went and waited on the General to desire his favour that we might have passage in one of them They were in all six Sail whereof Two Men of War and a Merchant-man were bound for Constantinople and the other Three Men of War no further than Tine thither to carry a new Proveditor The General after a very civil Conference gave us Warrant to Embarque on the Guerriera Constante being now informed that we were Gentlemen and that it was meerly curiosity that made us so inquisitive The Twenty-first of July we went on board and set sail for Zant but the Wind being contrary and having but little Sea-room between the Island and the Continent our Boats were so short that we made little or no way until the Third day The Wind then tacking about to the North we soon got out and doubled the Southern Cape of the Island beyond which there are some Flats and Rocks by it above water called Paxo and Antipaxo by the Venetians but by Sanson Pascu c. Afterwards we left the Island Saint Mauro and beyond that Cephalonia the chief Island of Ulysses his Dominions of which before I say any thing more Monsieur Spon must give me leave to correct an error or two he hath committed concerning Corfu comparing it with Cephalonia where he says Afterward we passed in sight of the Island of Cephalonia twice as big as that of Corfu For that hath about an hundred and forty miles in circuit and this not above seventy Whereas Count Marmero sheweth that Pliny counted Corfu Ninety-seven miles long as he supposes taking the Island Paxo with it now distant from Corfu ten miles and he at present reckons it about seventy miles in length and twenty broad at the North-West end and ten at the South-East Whence he concludeth it a hundred and eighty miles about But his Map added and published with his Book if measured by his Scale maketh it eighty miles long and from thence ten to Paxo which Scoglio perhaps makes the other seven mentioned by him However I do agree that Cephalonia is the bigger Island for although it be not much longer than Corfu it is as wide again Cephalonia is fruitful in Oyl and excellent Wines CEPHALONIA especially red Muscatels which we call Luke Sherry and in those Grapes whereof Currans are made that yield considerable profit The place of residence of the Proveditor is Argostoli where there is a large Port every way Land-lock't but hath no good Anchoridge At the mouth of the Port indeed is another Village called Luxuri but not many Curran-Merchants reside there as he saith for Zant is the place of their ordinary Residence where they come yearly to buy up the Currans to transport A little while since here happened a kind of Civil War between two families They made a faction of fifty or threescore of a side who gave combat to each other and fought as bloodily as Turks would do against Christians The Venetian Governours had not power enough to appease the quarrel But after they were weary they made peace upon condition that the one party should not enter into the others quarters on pain of death There is a Harbour on the East-side of the Island where we cast Anchor upon our return from Zant to Venice It is called Pescarda proper only for little Vessels There is to be seen here a little ruined Village where nothing now remains but a small Church and some few Caloyers Over against Pescarda is the Isle Thiaki separated from it only by a Streight of three or four miles over for which reason some call it Little Cephalonia The likeness of its name hath made it be
Blew VVhite and Red. Thus all our great preparations for fight ended in amicable salutes to each other expressed by sound of Trumpets Drums and Cannon Our Admiral carried the Banner of Saint Mark upon his Main-Top-Mast as Capitan Denavi which is the highest Charge at Sea under this State And therefore it fell to the Hollanders share to come by our Lee and salute first Their Admiral was young De Ruiter who only as Vice-Admiral of that Squadron carried his Flag on the Top-Mast head His Ship passed first and all the rest in order after him saluting which we still answered with the same respect After which De Ruiter sent two Officers to complement the Capitan Denavi and so took leave of us We were becalmed that night so that we found our selves next morning in the same Gulph still opposite to Corone But a moderate gale arising with the Sun not long after we doubled the Cape Metapan called in old time Promontorium Taenarium The Bay beyond it is called Brazza Dimagnio from the City Magnia situated at the bottom thereof The Magnoti who are the Inhabitants of that Country are famous Pirates by Sea and Pestilent Robbers by Land They have always bravely defended themselves against the Turks and maintained their Liberty till lately by this stratagem the Turks were too hard for them They got their consent to build two Forts upon their Coasts which they did so advantageously as soon made them Masters of their City and them And now none of them are exempted from paying Tribute but a few in the Mountains And some have quit their Country and are retired into Ponglia where the King of Spain hath assigned them an habitation They are naturally such Thieves that when any Vessel cometh into their Harbour they will go by night and cut the Cables of their Ships when they can find nothing else to lay hold of which sometimes endangers the Vessels running a shore when not discover'd in time Some Mariners of this place that were on board of us gave us this account of their Country with many diverting Stories of the same nature which they glory in One of the Officers of our Ship who had been at the Town related a Story that well expresseth their Thieving nature Some strangers being at one of the Villages of these Magnoti caused their Baggage to be brought into an old Womans house whilst they baited themselves and their Horses But soon after their Hostess fell bitterly a weeping The strangers surprized at it began to enquire the reason Then one of them answering for her said That perhaps it was because the sight of other Country-men put her in mind of the miserable estate of the Magnoti were reduced unto But she made them this short reply and told them it was false her weeping was because her Son was not at home to rob them of their baggage Such pleasant Conferences as these made our time seem less tedious whilst our slow passing of this Gulph made it the Fourth day from Zant to Cerigo Cerigo hath the Morea North of it CERIGO and was called anciently Cithaera famous for being the Native Country of Venus and Helena So that were we to frame an Idea of this place from the fame of these Beauties we might imagine it one of the most charming places of the World But on the contrary the greatest part of it is a barren rocky and Mountainous Soil ill peopled and can brag of no plenty neither of Corn Wine nor Oyl which undoubtedly made Venus change her own Country for Cyprus and Helena so willing to be stollen and carried into the pleasant Plains of the Continent What Beauties it now produceth I am ignorant of for I remember not that I saw a Woman there It s plenty consists in Mutton and Fowls as Turtles Venus beloved Birds Quails and Partridges Abundance of Hares and Falcons breed here but the people for what I could understand addict not themselves to Hawking The chief Town and Fort lieth on the South-side of the Island strong only towards the Sea on which it looketh from a Precipice Under it is a Harbour but open to the Southerly VVinds. Upon our entry into the Port whether by neglect or unskilfulness of our Captain we ran foul of another Ship of our company and if we did not endanger did at least considerable damage to both It hath about three or four miles South a little Rock called the Ovo or Egg the top of which they say is covered with Scorzonera and is inhabited only by Falcons that breed there From the Fort also is to be seen Cerigotto another little Island inhabited only by VVild Goats It belonged to Colonel Macarioti who served in Candia before it was taken He is reported to have behaved himself at that Siege very gallantly He made us taste of very good VVine of Cerigo where he now liveth From Cerigo in clear and fair weather Candia may be seen beyond Cerigotto This Island is still under the Dominion of the Venetians who send a Proveditor thither Our Vessel parted hence before the rest to take in fresh water at Port Saint Nicolo which lieth on the East-side of this Island and is undoubtedly that for which Strabo saith The Island hath a good Harbour there being beside the Harbour for great Vessels a natural Creek in the Rocks large enough for Forty Gallies which may easily be tied together and secured from without with a Chain Near the Shore here digging you have very good VVater which is indeed from a little Rivolet that in the heat of Summer seems perfectly dry in the Channel but still preserves it self some three foot under the ground VVe found ancient Ruins near this place which we took to be the Ruins of Menelaus his City in old time King of this Isle They are almost level with the ground Among these Ruins are some Grotto's cut out of the Rock which one of the Island pretending to be an Antiquary assured us were anciently the Baths of Helena affirming that her Palace was not above three or four miles from thence on the Hills VVe took this Antiquary for our guide and went to see what we could find of it But all we discover'd were two Pillars standing upright but without Chapitars and the Bases so deep in the ground that we could not judge of what order they were They were neither Chanell'd nor altogether plain but their Fusts cut into Angles about the breadth of an usual Channel and that not the whole length of their Fusts but some proportionable part only I rather believe it to have been some ancient Temple than a Palace They now call the place Paleo-Castro or Old Castle The situation of it is such that it looketh over the best part of the Island having a good fruitful Valley on the VVest and another not barren on the East toward the Sea-side I went up a little higher a simpling but discerning the rest of our Fleet under Sail and our Ship
us In devotion to whom the circumjacent Islands therefore called the Cyclades to make it the more famous sent thither by publick order Priests Sacrifices and Quires of Virgins instituting there great and publick Solemnities in the praise and honour of him The number of these Superstitious Cyclades at first were but twelve but afterwards encreasing comprehended the greatest part of the Islands of the Aegean-Sea now called the Archipelago That Superstition rested not there but diffused it self through Greece and the most Northern Countries beyond as from Strabo and Pausanias in his Attica is apparent who sent presents thither which by the Athenians who claimed it as their right were conveyed from the Continent to this place But the Destruction of Corinth by the Romans was the last great cause of its Riches and Wealth For because of the convenience of its situation the goodness of its Ports but especially its freedom from all Impositions Merchants flocked thither from all parts Corinth being afterward restored the Athenians gained the Island and were diligent Improvers of its Traffick and Mysteries A Monument of which I saw at Constantinople written upon a Marble brought from thence by the Marquess of Nantell ΕΠΙ ΦΑΙΔΡΙΟΥ ΑΡΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΕΛΑΦΗΒΩΛΙΟÎΟΣ ΟΓΔΟΗ ΕΚΚΛΗΣΙ Α ΕΠΤΩΧΕΡΩ ΤΟΥ ΑΠΟΛΛΩÎΟΣ ΔΙΟÎΥΣΙΟΣ ΔΙΟÎΥΣΙΟΥ ΑΡΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΗΣ ΕΙΠΕΠΕΠΕΙΔΗ ΠΑΤΡΩΠΔΟΡΟ ΘΕΟΥ ΤΩΠΕΚ ΤΗΣ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΥ ΕΠΕΛΘΩΠΕΠΙ ΤΗΠΕΚΚΛΗΣΙΑΠΚΑΙ ΗÎΙΟΥ ΤΗΠΥΠΑΡΧΟΥ ΣΑΠΑΥΤΩΙ ΕΥÎΟΙΑΠΕΙΣ ΤΗΠΣΥÎΟΔΟΠΚΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΠΟΛΛΑΣ ΧΡΕΑΣ ΠΑΡΑΙΣΧΗΤΑΙ ΑΠΑΡΑÎΑΚΤΩΣ ΔΙΑΥΤΗΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΑΠΑÎΤΟΣ ΕΩ ÎΕΙΤΑ ΤΗΙ ΣΥÎΟΔΩ ΕΤΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΑΤΤΩΠΤΑ ΣΥÎΦΕΡΟÎΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΙΑΠΕΥΜΟΥΣΗΤΑ ΤΩΠΕΑΥΤΩΠΤΩΠΕΛΕΥΣΟΜΕΠΕΜΠΟΡΩΠΚΑΙ ÎΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΠΣΥÎΑΞΑΜΕÎΩΠΕΠΙΤ ΥΠΕΥΞΗΜΕ ÎΗΣ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΛΑΙΑΣ ΕΥÎΟΙΑΣ ΠΑΡΑΚΑΛΕΣΑÎΤΑ ΚΟΙÎΟΠΕΞΑΠΟΣΤΕΙΛΑΙ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΙΑΠΠΡΟΣ ΤΟΠΔΗΜΟΠΤΩΠΑΘΗ ÎΑΙΩΠΟΠΟΣ ΔΟΘΗ ΚΑΤΑ ΕΚΕΥΑΣ ΟΥΣΙΠΤΕ ΜΕÎΟΣ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΤΟΥ ΤΙ ΠΑΡΑΙΤΙΟΥ ΓΕ ΓΟÎΟΤΟΣ ΤΟΙΣ ΑÎΘΡΟΠΟΙΣ ΑΡΧΗΣ ΟΣΤΙΣ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ ΥΠΑΡ ΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΑΙΡΕΘΕΙΣ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΗΠΒΟΥΛΗΠΚΑΙ ΤΟΠΔΗΜΟΠΤΩΠΑΘΗÎΑΙΩΠΞΑΜΕÎΟΣ Ε ΠΛΕΥΣΕΠΔΑΠΑÎΩΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΠΑÎΙΣΑΣ ΤΕ ΤΗΠΤΗΣ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΥ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΟΠΔΗΜΟΠΕΥÎΟΙΑΠΠΑΡΕΚΑΛΕΣΕΠΑΥΤΟΠΚΑΙ ΔΙΑ ΤΑΥΤΗΠΤΗΠΑΙΤΙΑΠΒΤΕΛΕΣΑΤΟ ΤΗΠΤΩΠΘΙΑΣΙΤΩΠΒΟΥΛΗΣΙΠΚΑΙ ΤΗΠΤΩΠΘΕΩΠΤΙΜΗΠΚΑΘΑΠΕΡ ΗΡΜΟΤΤΕΠΑΥΓΩΙ ΥΠΕΡ ΔΙΚΑΙΟΥ ΑΠΗΚΩΣ ΔΕ ΚΑΙ ΠΛΕΙΟÎΑΣ ΕΠΤΟΙΣ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΟΥΤΩΠΚΑΙΡΟΙΣ ΕΙΡΗΚΕΠΔΕ ΚΑΙ ΥΠΕΡ ΤΗΣ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΥ ΕΠΤΩ ΑÎΑΓΚΑΙΟΤΑ ΤΩ ΚΑΙΡΩ ΤΑ ΔΙΚΑΙΑ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΣΗΣ ΠΡΟΘΥΜΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΦΙΛΟΤΙ ΜΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΔΕΖΑΤΟ ΤΕ ΤΟΠΘΙΑΣΟΠΕΦΙΜΕΡΑΣ ΔΥΟ ΥΠΕΡ ΤΟΥ ΤΟ ÎΙ ÎΑΟΥΠΚΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΠΔΟΙΠΟΠΧΡΟÎΟΠΑΠΑΡΑ ΚΛΗΤΟΠΕΑΥΤΟΠΠΑΡΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΤΟ ΚΑΙ Η ΣΥÎΟΔΟΣ ΦΑΙ ÎΗΤΑΙ ΦΡΟÎΤΙΣΟΤ ΣΑ ΔΙΑÎΕΥΜΕÎΩΠΑÎΔΡΩΠΕΙΣ ΕΑΥ ΤΗΠΕΥÎΟΙΚΩΣ ΚΑΙ ΑΞΙΑΣ ΧΑΡΙΤ'ΑΣ ΑΠΟΔΙΔΟΥΣΑ ΤΟΙΣ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΑΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΤΕΡΟΙΣ ΘΥΤΩΠΕΚ ΤΗΣ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΥ ΔΙΑ ΤΗΠΕΙΣ ΤΟΥΤΟΠΕΥΧΑΡΙΣΤΙΑΠΕ Ω ΩΤΑΙ ÎΩÎΤΑΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΡΑΜΙΜΟÎΤΑΙ ΦΙΛΟΤΙΜΟΥ ΜΕÎΟΙΣ ΠΕΡΙΠΟΙΕΙΠΤΙ ΤΗ ΣΥÎΟΔΩ ΚΑΙ ΑΓΑΘΕΙ ΤΥΚΕΙ ΔΕΔΟΧΘΑΙ ΤΩ ΚΟΙÎΩ ΤΩΠΤΥΡΙΩΠΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΣ ΤΩΠΕΜΠΟΡΩΠΚΑΙ ÎΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΠΕΠΑΙÎΗΣΑΙ ΠΑΤΡΩÎΑ ΔΩ ΡΟΘΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΕΦΑÎΩΣΙ ΑΥΤΟΠΚΑΤΑ ΕΠΕΑΥΙΟΠΧΡΥ ΣΩ ΣΤΕΦΑÎΩ ΕΠΤΑΙΣ ΣΥÎΤΕΛΕΣΜΕÎΑΙΣ ΘΥΣΙΑΙΣ ΤΩΙ ΠΟΣΕΙΔΟÎΙ ΑΡΕΤΗΣ ΕÎΕΚΕΠΚΑΙ ΚΑΛΟΚΑΓΑΘΙ ΑΣ ΗΣ ΙΚΩΠΔΙΑΤΕΛΩΠΕΙΣ ΓΟ ΚΟΙÎΟΠΤΩΠΤΥΡΙ ΩΠΕΜΠΟΡΩΠΚΑΙ ÎΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΠΑÎΑΘΕΙÎΑΙ ΔΕ ΑΥ ΤΟΥ ΕΙΚΟÎΑ ΓΡΑΠΤΗΠΕΠΤΩ ΤΕΜΕÎΕ ΤΟΥ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΚΑΤΑ ΛΑΣ ΧΗΟΥ ΑΠΑΥΤΟΣ ΒΟΥΛΗΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΑΣΥ ΟΣ ΑΛΕΙΤΟΥΡΓΗΤΟΣ ΕΠΤΑΙΣ ΓΙÎΟΜΕÎΑΙΣ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΙΣ ΠΑΣΑΙΣ ΕΠΙΜΕΛΕΙΑ ΕΣΤΩ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΘΙΣΤΑΜΕÎΟΙΣ ΑΓΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΑΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΑΜΙΑΙΣ ΚΑΤΩ ΓΡΑΜΜΑΤΕΙ ΠΩΣ ΕΠΤΑΙΣ ΓΙÎΟΜΕÎΑΙΣ ΘΥ ΣΙΑΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΙΣ ΑÎΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΙ ΤΑ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΑΥΤΗΠΤΗΠΑÎΑΓΟΡΕΥΣΙΠΗ ΣΥÎΟΔΟΣ ΤΩΠΤΥΡΙΩΠΕΜΠΟΡΩΠΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΠΑÎΑΓΡΑΨΑΤΩΣΑΠΔΕ ΤΟ ΨΗ ΦΙΣΜΑ ΕΙΣ ΣΤΗΛΗΠΑΙΘΙÎΗΠΚΑΙ ΣΤΗΣΑΤΩΣΑΠΕΠΤΩ ΤΕΜΕÎΕΙ ΤΟΥ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΕΣΟΜΕÎΟΠΑÎΗΛΩΜΑ ΕΙΣ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΜΕΡΙΣΑΤΩ Ο ΤΛΜΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΑΡΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ ΑΡΧΙΘΙΑΣΙΤΟΥ ΔΙΟÎΥΣΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΔΙΟÎΥΣΙΟΥ ΙΕΡΑΤΕΥΟÎΤΟΣ ΔΕΤΟΥ ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΥ Within a Wreath of Olive Branches O ΔΗΜΟΣ ΑΘΗÎΑΙ ΩΠWithin a Wreath of Olive Branches Η ΣΥÎΟΛΟΣ ΤΩΠΤΥΡΙΩΠΕΜΠΟΡΩΠΚΑΙ ÎΑΥΚΛΗΡΩΠIt is a Panegyrick in praise of one Patron Son of Dorotheus who had done several good Offices for the Company of the Tyrian Merchants and Mariners spoken by the Chief Priest in the Temple of Apollo at a Meeting there the Eighth of the Month Elaphebolion the Year when Phaedrias was Archon of Athens decreed and subscribed by the Commons of Athens and the Company of the Tyrian Merchants and Seamen But this its Greatness and Glory being long since obscured it now remains that I give you an account of its present miserable condition The first thing that we met with at our arrival to a little Bay on the West-side near the North-end was a square Foundation with eleven Granate Pillars yet standing about and within it which they of the Island call the Schools from a Tradition that there were Schools anciently in that place Not above a stones cast from thence more Southward in a large oval Foundation we found the Pedestal of a Statue dedicated to Mithridates Evergetes in the time that Seleucus of Marathon was Gymnasiarch or chief Governour of the Schools ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΣ ΜΙΘΡΑΔΑΤΟΥ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΟΥ ΣΕΛΕΥΚΟΣ ΜΑΡΑΘΩÎΙΟΣ ΓΥΜÎΑΣΙΑΡΧΩΠWhich would have served to have confirmed the vulgar Tradition of the first Ruin had we not found another to the same effect though differing in name a great way from it wherefore they serve only to prove that there was a Gymnasium in Delos But this oval Foundation we judged to have been a Naumachia or place to exercise Naval Recreations in and the rather that our Doctor Crescentio told us that he remembred to have seen a Hole in the middle of it which probably might have been to let in the Sea-water seeing it lieth low enough and not far distant from the Sea It is about three hundred paces in length and two hundred in breadth and the Wall about four or five foot from the bottom but even with the Ground above Some Pillars yet remain standing on the brink of it which made us conclude that there had been a Portique about it either for Use or Ornament or for both This seemeth to be that which the Poet Callimachus calleth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the Round Lake for his Scholiast in the Explication of the Place saying that it may be understood of the Sea because it encompasseth the Island addeth that perhaps there was a round Lake therein Proceeding yet more Eastward we came to a vast heap of admirable white Marble which we knew to have been the Temple of Apollo by the Trunk of his Statue we found among them This goodly structure is so entirely ruin'd that it is impossible to judge of its form and the God himself so ill handled that he hath neither hands feet nor head left him yet what is remaining appeareth still most beautiful his locks hanging round his shoulders are yet to be seen having marks in each curl as we judged where Jewels had been set with a sign about his waste of a Girdle which had in like manner been richly adorned and on his left shoulder a light Mantle The Statue was
Protection the Fourth General Council was assembled and held at Chalcedon wherein the Heresies of Eutyches and Dioscorus were condemned and the Verity of the Divine and Humane Nature of Christ without Confusion of Substance was asserted This Pillar is now standing in the Court of a private House joyning to the Bath of Ibrahim Basha near the Odas of the Janizaries which is about Mid-way between the Hippodrome and Adrianople Gate not far from the great Street When we were in this part of the Town THE JANIZARIES QUARTERS we went to see the Quarters of the Janizaries which are two great Buildings near together without any great Beauty or Ornament but capable of receiving of a great number of Men where all that Order ought to inhabit together and live Batchellors But now they leave off the strictness of that Discipline great part of them having only their Names enrolled in their Books and receive the Grand Signior's Pay but Marry follow Trades and reside in their own Houses up and down the Town They are two oblong Courts with a small Mosque or Chappel in the middle of them where those that reside there daily do their Devotions Instead of Inns in Constantinople KANS. and indeed all over Turkey they have publick Buildings they call Karavan Serais or Kans erected in convenient Parts of the City for the Markets and Traffick of different Commodities These are for all Men of what Quality Condition Country or Religion soever and there the Poorest have room to lodge in and the Richest have no more As to their Beds and Entertainment they must bring and provide them themselves or lodge on the Floor or at most on a Mat which in some Kans the Kan-keeper is obliged to provide They are of two sorts the old Fashion ones are but like a great Barn without any Partitions or Distinctions of Rooms or Lodgings They have only round the Wall a Bank raised about a Foot and half high from the Ground kept from falling down by a Wall of the same height paved on the Top and about seven or eight Foot broad At four or five Yards distance round the Wall are placed small Chimneys Between which they lay their Beds tying their Horses and giving them Meat at their Feet But the other Kans of later Building and in great Cities are more stately they are usually built in the Form of a Quadrangle with Two and sometimes Three Stories one above the other covered with so many Leaded Cuppaloes as it is divided into Appartments of about ten Foot square where each Company keep their Concerns private to themselves with as great Convenience as their manner of Life will permit And about them there are commonly Attendance who for a small Vale will provide you such things as you have Occasion for So many Stories as they are high so many Galleries are built one above another round the Kan into which these little Chambers open These Kans look very stately without and are not ungrateful to the Sight within They are usually built of Stone having a large Gate to enter into them and in the middle of the Area is built a small Mosque or Chappel to do their Devotion in supply'd with Water both for Religious and Necessary Uses In my Opinion they might be accommodated to the Use of our Christian Countries For the generality of Inns Taverns and Ale-houses are grown such Places of all manner of Debaucheries that I am sure they are become the Shame of our Religion if not of the Policies of most Christian Countries For they not only harbour Prophaneness Luxury and Debauchery but are the Receptacles of idle and slothful Persons and indeed of Out-lanes Thieves and Robbers Their Keepers extorting for their Entertainment Rates without Reason or Modesty and in a word are the Destruction of the Souls Bodies and Estates of many Thousands not only of Poor but Rich also and when all this is done they oftner die Beggars than Rich Men themselves Whereas if such Places as these were erected in convenient Places of the Roads in Cities and in Market-Towns and put into the Hands of honest poor Men to serve Strangers Travellers and Tradesmen Poor Men might do their Business with greater Expedition and less Charge carry home their Gains to their Wives and Children and not spend them before they return from Market Here Rich Men might have provided for the necessary Conveniences of their Journeys without Extravagances have Opportunity to be Charitable and by their Examples of Devotion and Christian Behaviour give Glory to God their Creatour and mighty Redeemer especially if they had Chappels and Chaplains with a convenient Stipend annexed to them The Exchange which they call the Bazar or Bezestan BAZAR is also a Beautiful Building roofed with Cuppalo's covered with Lead sustained by many Arches and Pillars within and is situate toward the Western part of the City The chief Trade in it consisting in Fur-Gowns Vests fine Saddles and Bridles Semiters and other Armour We soon wished our selves out of it it was so crouded with Brokers that sold old Cloaths we apprehended were of those who dyed of the Plague The Publick Bagnios or Baths BAGNIOS are none of the smallest Ornaments of this City These are usually placed near their Mosques because they use them in cleansing themselves according to their Superstition as well as for the Health of their Bodies being their chief Remedy in all their Diseases as really they are the best Physick of their Country We went to see only one of these near the Mosque of the Sultan's Mother because the Plague was so much in the City and these much frequented by the Infected They have a Room without with a Sopha round it to undress themselves and a large square Room beyond that covered with a Cuppalo thorough which the Light is let by Bell-glasses and about it are many little Appartments covered with small Cuppalo's much resembling that built in London only they have usually a great Bason in the Middle filled with hot Water into which they go to bathe themselves We crossed the Water one day to see the Antient Aqueduct OLD AQUEDUCT that joyns the two Hills together on which the Mosques of Suleman and Bajazet stand of which we had a fair Prospect from Gallata It is built strong and high with large Arches one above the other in the deepest part of the Valley but is now dis-joyned from the Eastern Hill and of no present Use The Water being now conveyed about the City by Pipes under Ground But the Aqueducts that bring the Water to the City are very Magnificent of which more hereafter We took a Barge another day and went to see the Seven Towers SEVEN TOWERS as they call a Castle situate in that Angle of the City nearest the Propontis because it bath so many eminent Spired Towers In our way we put a Shore on the Seraglio point where towards the Bosphorus is a Plat-form planted with a
is a place that aboundeth with all sorts of Provisions whether Corn Flesh or Fish only Wine is scarce by reason that it is prohibited But though there be none permitted to be sold in the City at Gallata are some Christian Cabarets but the Wine is dear They sell it by weight here and all over Turkey The Oka which is a weight of about forty two Ounces is sold here for a quarter of a Doller that is about fourteen Pence and contains about three Pints and an half or two Quarts The best Wine is made by the Jews who by their Law must not make Mixtures They have great plenty of many sorts of good Fish Oysters here are better than I tasted them any where except in England The Sword-Fish is another I took notice of for its Goodness and firm fleshy Substance Their Fruits are excellent Figs Peaches and Apples very fair and good The Turks are very sweet-tooth'd and love all kind of sweet Meats But I cannot commend them for good Confectioners They preserve Fruits with new Wine boyled to Syrup Honey and sometimes Sugar which although they are not ill-tasted would hardly pass with our English Ladies they are so ill-colour'd Their most ordinary Drink is Water next a Sorbet made of Raisins steeped in Water But the Richer sort have Sorbet made of Sugar and Honey boyled to a consistence with the Juyce of lemons which they mix with Water when they use it Coffee they drink at any time but at Meal and is the usual Entertainment when any come to visit them About a dozen or fifteen Miles North from Gallata BELGRADE towards the Black Sea we went to see a place which from the Beauty and Pleasantness of it is called Belgrade The Country lies high shaded with abundance of Woods watered with many wholsom Springs stored with several sorts of Game accommodated with several small Villages at convenient Distances and the Air very good and healthful To these shady Woods many Persons of Quality as well of the Turks as Ambassadours and rich Merchants retire to enjoy the fresh Air in the scorching Heats of Summer and to hunt at the proper Seasons of the Year Here some build them pretty Houses of Pleasure others stately Chiosques or Banquetting-Houses and others content themselves to sojourn in Tents they stretch out under the tall Trees near some refreshing Spring All these Springs are with great Care and greater Charges collected into several large Cisterns near each of which is built a stately Chiosque or Summer-house The usual Form of them is square contrived so with large Pent-house-Roofs for shade yet so open round about that one enjoys all the Liverty Freshness and Goodness of the open Air without the least Inconvenience from the heat of the Sun You mount up to them by four or five Steps to an Area paved with Purcelane Tile or Marble covered with Indian Mats or Carpets with Balusters or Rails about it The Roof also within is painted with several Colours as red green white and yellow and pretty Knots of Figures wrought on them From these Cisterns the Water is conveyed by Channels under ground to the several Aqueducts that carry it by many Windings and Turnings over the low Valleys from the tops of Hills to Hills until at last it is brought with a vast Charge to Constantinople Several of these we observed both in our way thither and return to Gallata AUQEDUCTS Especially one about mid-way joyning two Hills together cross a Valley at least half a Mile over This consists of two Ranges of Arches whereof the lowermost hath fifty and the uppermost fifty one and I believe from the deepest part of the Valley to the top of the Aqueduct is above thirty Yards There is another in sight of this Eastwards which bends and makes an Angle This hath three Ranges of Arches one above the other but not so many in number North of this first we saw another which joyns two Hills together by a narrow but very deep Valley This hath but four Arches in two Tanges but the Arches are exceedign large I measured them not but Mr. Smith saith They are above fifty Foot wide The Care of these Waters and the cleansing of these Aqueducts and Channels are imposed upon the adjacent Villages for which service they are freed from all other Taxes Most of these Aqueducts were built by the latter Roman and Greek Emperours But by Time Wars and Neglignece being run to decay and ruined they were repaired again at the great Charge and indefatigable Industry of Sultan Suliman who for this and the stately Mosque he built in the City was deservedly called the Magnificent These Waters being thus brought to the City are again collected into several great Cisterns and thence again by earthen Pipes dispersed to the several Quarters private Houses and publick Buildings of the City Whereof one is against the wall of the City by Ballata another under Hagia-Sophia and Mr. Smith speaks of one at Sultan Selim's Mosque The Plants I took notice of hereabouts were 1. PLANTS A kind of Dwarf-Abrotonum with Flowers like Cammonil 2. A sort of Serpillum with Leaves like Savoury the Smell also differing from ours Lib II. Fig Ix Androsoemum Constaninopolitaâ—um flore maximo I found another Plant going thither and to the Black-Sea also which I know not to what species to refer unless to Androsemum majus which we call Parks-Leaves For the Leaves are of the substance and colour only longer and of a more tough Substance growing two by two on a shrubby square Stalk of a reddish colour not rising from the ground above a span high On the top of which succeedeth a large yellow Flower much bigger than Parks-Leaves filled with a large Tuft of the same our of which before the Flower is fallen beginneth to rise a long Vessel divided into five Appartments full of reddish Seeds The Smell is like the best Turpentine but more fragrant and like Coris Of it I observed two sorts The difference is only that the other by pairs cross each other It spreads upon the Ground in heaps so that seldom one shall find one Stalk alone Since my writing this I find that Dr. Morison hath described this Plant in his excellent History of Plants having raised it in the Botanick Garden at Oxford of which Science he is the Learned Professour out of the Seeds I sent to that University and hath named it Androsemum Olympii montis flore semine Theca quinque capsulari ominum maximus which is extreamly well distinguished only he should have put in Byzantinum or Constantinopolitanum instead of Montis Olympii as he hath done lately in a Letter to me with the Design of the Plant I here give you I also there saw some Trees of Guaiacum Patavinum which were shewed us as a Rarity at Pera. We waited a good while for a calm Day to go to the Mouth of the Black Sea to see the Pillar vulgarly called
Mouth which he placeth between Parium and Lampsacus emptying it self into the Propontis nor yet of the River Aesopus Wherefore these may be esteemed some other Rivers of Phrygia or Mysia Minor or Hellespontick Mysia which I suppose to be extended until the Mountain by the Iron-Gate or Mount Timnus now mentioned Whence also I believe Mysia major begins and reacheth unto the Mountain by Thyatira Thirdly This River at Mandragorai abovementioned is most probably the Caicus whose Fountain Ptolomy putteth in the same Latitude with the Rhyndicus but not in the same Longitude and Strabo makes the Caicus to pass through the best part of Mysia before it comes to Pergamo But this by the way I was going to tell what Plants I found by it in my Walk this Evening 1. PLANTS AT MANDRAGORAL Scordium Lanuginosum sive Creticum Downy or Candy Scordion 2. Alsine Lotoides sive Anthylloides sive Spergulae facie C. Bauhinus 3. Gingidium Hispanicum which the Spaniards call Visnago in great esteem among them for Tooth-picks as Dr Pickering informed me when he shewed it me growing all over these Countries The next morning we parted thence and soon passed the River Whence up and down in a rough Mountainous Country we travelled till about three in the Afternoon when we arrived at a Village under a Mountain called Courougouli or the Dry Lake For the Plain round about in Winter is filled with Water like a Lake and in the Summer is dry Plants here observed were 1. PLANTS AT COUROUGOULI Leucoium Alyfsoides clypeatum majus C. Bauhin Dioscorides Gerard page 465. Mine agreeth well with common Moonwort only the Leaves of it as it groweth bigger put out here and there a little Angle and grow round about it near the ground in a Tuft Whence it sendeth but a single Stalk as I observed in most of them set with oval Shields c. and the whole Plant very woolly like Woollen Cloth as it yet remaineth in my Book But that change may happen through Alteration of Climate Lib III. Fig IIII Origanum Spicatum montis Sipyli folijs glabris W 2. But the Plant which pleased me most to see here was a most beautiful kind of Origanum with long purple Flowers Mr. Merchant calleth it Origanum Heracleoticum Flore purpureo But Dr. Morison much better hath named it Origanum spicatum It is an Origanum different from any that hath been seen in our parts From black stringy and creeping Roots rise up many downy round Stalks beset in pairs of Leaves at first somewhat downy and ribbed with such small Ribs as are hardly perceiveable to the Touch. The Shape is round near the Stem and endeth in a sharp point like the small Myrtle These shoot a foot and half or two foot high from the Ground the Stalk and Leaves growing smooth and towards the top in pairs it sendeth out very small Twigs which end in a scaly Flower like a Hop sometimes near an inch long and of a light purple colour between whose scales come small Purple Flowers When they are bruised they send forth a weak Scent something resembling Stoecas Arabicus I found it both in Flower and Seed with which I have furnished several Gardens And it flourisheth now very well at Oxford The next day we passed over a good high Mountain whence we had the Prospect of a large Plain East of us and came very early to Basculumbai a Village of about two or three hundred Houses BASCULUMBAI having a Kan and three Mosques also We lodged at an Acquaintance of the Doctor 's a Turk that made as much of us as he could This place tradeth much in Cotton I took notice of the Instrument they separate the Seed from the Cotton with which is only two Rowls one of Wood about two or three inches diameter and another small one of Iron set in a frame so as to rouch one another each of which being turn'd round the other turneth also and letteth the Cotton pass between as it goeth about but leaveth the round Seeds behind Here I observed a little River which may fall into the Caicus Thursday the Nineteenth of October we parted hence early in the morning and about a Mile from the Town left the common Road to Smyrna on the right hand and passed through a pleasant Country mixed with Woods and Pastures until we came to a Mountain stretched out in length East and West yet not very high It hath a Gap in the middle through which we passed along a Stream great part of which is carried in Aqueducts under-ground to Thyatira This Mountain is supposed to part Mysia major and Lydia To defend this Passage on the right hand a good height are the Ruins of an old Castle called by the Turks Akeisar or White Castle as they do also now call Thyatira which we saw from hence over a Plain about two Miles further South and arrived thither about Noon Thyatira is a very antient City in Lydia or in the Confines of Mysia a Colony of the Macedonians according to Strabo situate almost in the mid-way between Pergamo and Sardis in a very delightful Plain But since more famous in Holy Writ being one of those Churches of Asia the Son of God vouchsafed to write to by the Holy Apostle St John THYATIRA shewing them what they must look for if they did not reclaim themselves from the Fornication with which they were polluted through the perswasion of some who taught them to eat Meats offered unto Idols thereby to dissemble the Truth Upon which warning how well they reformed is uncertain But certain that Christianity is almost extinct in this place there being not above ten Christians in the Town destitute both of Church and Priest Their Patience and Suffering undoubtedly is great among that disproportionable number of Infidels For the Town is very populous in Turks and may contain four or five thousand Souls It s antient Temporal as well as Spiritual Beauty is destroyed its Marble Buildings are buried in their own Ruins Houses built of Clods of Earth and dried in the Sun only remaining and it s once glorious Name obliterated Insomuch that a very little while ago none knew where it was to be found nor where it did stand Some thought with the ignorant Greeks that it was Tyreth a Town South-East of Ephesus about twenty Miles where they pretend they have the Apocalypse of St John's own writing as I have heard Until the Curiosity and Piety of the English Consul of Smyrna Mr Ricaut with several of the Merchants whose Devotions were raised by their Minister Mr Lake gave a Period to this gross Errour by finding this to be the antient Thyatira For they met with many Inscriptions here where the name Thyatira is mentioned of which all we could find being a dozen we copied with as great exactness as we could which gave us a great deal of News of this Place The first we were shewed was at a kind of
the Banks of this River I observed great abundance of Anemonies of the dissected-leaf-kind of many colours as blue white red and purple The Mountain which make this Promontory is called by the Greeks Maurovouni MAUROVOUNI or Black Mountains Whence we passed to another Point in an Hour and half called Mauromidie but antiently Arrexius Promontory Cape MAUROMIDIE where there is another Lake or Fishing-place having communication with the Sea called by the Venetians Pescaria del Papa On this Point is the Ruins of a Watch-Tower perhaps in use when the Venetians were Masters of this Country This Place hath the advantage of a fair Prospect looking full into the Gulph of Lepanto North-East with the two Castles at its Mouth Patras almost at the bottom of the Bay made by this and the Morean Promontory of the Gulph of Lepanto or Corinth Messa-longia North a Promontory of Epirus North-West with a little Island called Courtzolari Cephalonia West Zant South-West and Castle-Tornese South From hence we crossed over to see Mr Pendarves then lading of Currans on an English Ship called the Merchant Factor riding near Messa-longia and Nathaligo These are two little Towns built like Venice upon little Islands in the Shallows of the Sea near the Shore of the antient Aetolia No Ship or Bark can come near them by four or five Miles nor to them at all unless they will fetch them in their little flat-bottom'd Boats made of one piece of Wood they therefore call Monoxylo as afore-said In which also they bring their Currans aboard coming to and fro in calm Weather as thick as Bees to a Hive Both these Towns consist for the greatest part of Christians free from the Irregular Insults of the Turks But have a Turkish Veivode over them Thence after we had the satisfaction of seeing our good Friend and of recruiting our Purses the thirtieth of December we proceeded more chearfully on our Voyage Keeping along the Shore of Aetolia we observed extraordinary great Flights of Pelicans and other Fowls and not far thence met with a Boat that was a fishing of whom besides a good dish of Fish we bought we observed among the rest a kind of Fish the Italians call Fulpo and the Greeks Octopodia because at one end spreading themselves abroad it is divided into eight long Points each of which points are full of Knobs like Warts whereby it sticketh fast to any thing it toucheth In the Center of these Feet is its place for the Evacuation of its Excrements smelling as sweet as Musk. The other end is a round lumpy Substance filled with its Garbadge whence the Italian Name seemeth to be taken Here we saw also another sort of Fish of near a foot long with a very sharp Beak and slender They call it a Needle Fish Another we saw something like an Eele for shape but the Flesh tasteth and is coloured like a Whiting They call it Grongo Another they call Barbouni which I take to be the same with our Gournits only their Beards are longer and are of a red colour like a boyled Lobster their Scales are also all in one and hard From this Point we crossed over to Patras leaving on our right hand the Promontory Mauromidie and about a dozen Miles from Patras a Town in sight of it called Mamminizza situated upon both sides of a River two or three Miles from the Sea This Village was in all likelihood the antient City Olenus and the River the antient Pirus which Pausanias puts about ten Miles from Patras Nearer to Patras one leaves the old Fortress of Achaia now slighted and as my Companion observes a Torrent whose Channel was then dry called now by the Greeks Leucas and by Pausanias Glaucos all which Places are in the Achaia of Peloponnesus To the other hand on the Romanian Shore are two very high-piked Mountains the first of which is called Gallata from a Town behind it bearing that Name which Monsieur Spon thinketh to be the antient Calydon Beyond the other Mountain we had the two Castles at the Mouth of the Gulph in sight Of Calydon Pausanias telleth this sad Love story Coresus the Priest of Bacchus fell in love with a fair Virgin of the Town called Callirhoe who the more she was courted the more she despised the Priest so that neither his rich Presents Vows nor Tears could move her to the least Compassion This at last made the Priest run in despair to the Image of Bacchus for succour imploring Vengeance from him Bacchus made it appear that he heard his Prayers by a Disease he sent on the Town which seemed a kind of Drunken Madness of which mad Fit the People died in abundance Whereupon they sent Deputies from Calydon to the Oracle of Jupiter of Dodona which was in reputation in those days amongst the Etolians Acarnanians and all the Country of Epirus to know what they should do to be freed from that woeful Malady Answer was given That Coresus must sacrifice Callirhoe or some other Person that would dedicate himself in her stead to appease the Anger of Bacchus The Virgin when she could no way obtain her Life of her Relations was brought to the Altar adorn'd as Victims used to be to be sacrificed by her Lover Coresus Whose wonderful Love even at that present so conquered all past thoughts of Revenge that instead of her he slew himself and became a Victim to generous Love instead of being any longer the Priest of Bacchus The Virgin also relenting of her Cruelty to him went and slew her self at a Fountain without the Town from thence called by her name Callirhoe But whether Gallata or the Ruins of another Town not far from thence towards Messalongia which Sr Clement Harby told me he saw there be the antient Calydon I cannot determin unless I had seen them both We arrived at Patras that Afternoon early Patras is situated upon an Hill PATRAS CERYNEA not above half a Mile from the Sea at the foot of an high Mountain which I think was called Cerynea with a Valley between It hath a Castle on the highest Point of the Hill and a Descent every way into a fruitful Valley well planted with Orange Limons and Citrons so much esteemed for their delicious Taste M. Pausa l. vii p. 448. Patras was the antient as well as the modern Name of the Place and is undoubtedly the same with that of the Romans being made a Roman Colony by Augustus Caesar after it had been for some time destroyed by more antient Fates Pausanias telleth That it was first built by one Eumelus Native of the Country who having received the manner how to build from Triptolemus as likewise Corn and how to sow it named the Place he built from his tilling the Ground Aroa Afterwards when the Ionians were driven out of the Peloponnesian Achaia one called Patreus enlarged it so that Aroa and its Walls were contained within the new Walls he made about it and the City
standing at the Altar of Diana Triclaria ready to be slain which made him quickly call to mind the words of the Oracle that agreed so well to what he saw here The People also seeing a strange King whom they had neither seen nor heard of before were no less moved at his Presence and at the Coffer which he brought not doubting but that it contain'd some sacred thing as it did So that remembring the Answers Apollo had severally given them there was great Joy on both sides the King that he found himself by this means restored to his right Mind and the City that they were delivered and set free from such a barbarous Custom From this cruel Sacrifice the River at which it was usually done had got the Name of Amilichus which is as much as to say Vnmerciful But when the wicked Rite and Custom thus expired it came to be called Milichus which signifieth Compassionate or Tender-hearted whereas before it was not known to have any Name at all The Stream runs thence South-Westwards and so winds about the Town to the Sea Thence passing over the River and up the Hill near the Town we came to the Jews Burying-place where I observed their Sepulchers to be made in the fashion of little Houses of Stone-building having at each end a Marble-Stone whereon is engraven an Inscription of their Name and Family which looking like the Doors of the little Houses of Death make the Burying-place seem a great Town when it is viewed at a distance from the wrong end of a Microscope From hence leaving the Town on the left hand we passed by the Castle on our right which is not much considerable either for Beauty or Strength having only one round Tower toward the Sea a broad-side towards the Town and ditch'd round about being then commanded by a Turk called Hebbey-Bey as is above-mentioned Here is also a Caddy or Judge to determine Civil Controversies and a Veivode whose Office it is to execute the Determinations of the Caddy and gather the Rights and Duties upon Merchandizes and Provisions He that was then Veivode was called Abdi-Aga who from his Sopha spied my Comrade walking by before his Window and perceiving him to be a Stranger sent a Janizary to him to bring him before him where by a Jew that was his Interpreter he examin'd him what he was and what he did in that Country My Companion answered That he was a Physician and that his passing near those parts was that he went to see a Friend of his that was Consul at Athens The Interpreter then made him understand That he ought to have made the Veivode some Present staying in the Town But to this he made him a Compliment telling him That he was no Merchant that only bad Weather staid him in Town and that he had brought hardly enough to defray his own Expences far from being able to make Presents to a Person of his Dignity and so he was dismissed His Brother also Haly Basha who was Master of the Customs hoped to have had something of us in this kind and for fear we should part without paying his Dues took the Rudder of our Barque and locked it up in the Custom-House The Turks are about a Third Part of the Town with the Jews and Christians the other Two Parts They have six Mosques one of which was formerly the Cathedral Church and hath an Iron Chain gilded with Gold hanging on the top of the Cuppalo Which was the reason that when it was taken from the Venetians as they say the Town was pillaged the Turks believing it to be Massive Gold and that they could not but have great Riches in the City The Jews who make the second Third-part of the Town have four Synagogues with a kind of Polity among themselves and chusing antient Men to decide their own Differences The whole number of Christians Turks and Jews are reputed about four or five thousand Their Trade consists in raw Silks made in the Morea in good quantity Leather is also cheap and so is Honey Wax Wool and Cheese The Currans of Patras are esteemed the best in those Parts but they have no great quantity of them Patras Nathaligo and Messa-longia all three together having enough to lade only one good Ship every year Here we went to visit the Vice-Consul of the French Monsieur Vitelin who shewed us a Marble Head of a Statue found in digging his Garden but so defaced that it could not be known for whom it was made As also a Gold-Ring set with a Stone having a Castle engraven on it and certain Gothick Letters about it We went also to visit the Venetian Consul to have a Pass-port of him because the English Consul was not then there and also because our Boat-men were of Zant under the Venetians For none can pass in and out again the Gulph of Lepanto without leave of one of the Castles at the Mouth which Castles are so near to each other that it is impossible to pass out of Gun-shot of one or other or both of them Besides if they let you pass into it at Lepanto one runs the risque of having the Barque burned and an Aveny set upon you besides To enter the Gulph leave must be had of the Castle of Morea and to come out of that of Romelia for so only they distinguish them But when we had gotten this Instrument we wanted another to wit the Rudder of our Bark which as I said the Emir or Receiver of Customs had taken away that we might not part without his Knowledge We could not for sometime find him and when we did we were forced to buy it of him at the price of half a Crown Lib IIII. Naupactush LEPANTO January the first LEPANTO we parted from Patras and came to Lepanto that Evening though it was past Noon when we took Water For we were presently dismiss'd at the Castle and it is not esteem'd above a dozen Miles distance from Patras to Lepanto being in sight of each other From one Castle to the other is not above a Mile But then the Gulph widens again on each side unto Lepanto Lepanto is now the chief City of this Gulph and of late hath given Name to it It was called formerly Naupactus and by the Greeks now Epactos only by the Franks Lepanto Ptolomy reckons it among those of Locris Ozelorum It is situate upon a very steep Hill with a Descent every way from the top but it is joyned to a Mountain behind it by two other little Hills which since the Invention to a Mountain behind it by two other little Hills which since the Invention of Gun-powder command it But it was so strong in antient times that it gave much disquiet to the Romans being a Refuge for the Rebellious Etolians It is built from the Sea-shore up to the highest Point of the Hill which is crowned with a little Castle to mount to which one must pass no less than four Ranges
lodged in the Castle no Christians whatsoever being permitted to enter into it But we were forced to make a vertue of Necessity and content our selves to take up our habitation in a place not much bigger or better than a Tomb like the Mad-man mentioned in the Gospel Which was a Brick Building arched over of six foot broad and fifteen foot long and the Floor digg'd two foot deep below ground It had two such holes one a top and another below as would neither let out the Smoak nor let in the Light But cold enough This Room served us for all the Offices of a spacious House the worst was when it came to its turn to be made a Kitchin not but that we might well enough have endured the Fire if our Eyes could have agreed as well with the Smoak Our Patron of the Barque lent us his Sail to spread on the Floor on which laying our Quilts we made but a bad shift the Place being very damp But the Wetness producing good store of Rushes thereabouts I taught them at last to be Matt-makers by tying handfuls of long Rushes together with Pack-thred we had by us These we laid under our Quilts and to stop out the Cold. The Fountain Argyra of good fresh Water at our Door was our best Accommodation For as to our Wine we sent for it two or three Miles off our Bread we had from Patras and our Meat from the Mountains at about a Mile or two's distance One day to take the Air I went to the Mountains with our Greek and a Guide to get Provisions and having passed by some Flocks not above two Miles from us not finding the Shepherds with them we began to ascend the foot of the Mountain and being gat up upon a Hill at a good distance we saw thirty or forty sitting in a round heap together This made me presently to call to mind the pleasant Stories I had heard of the Arcadian Shepherds from whose Country we were now not far distant I thought of nothing but being diverted by some Festival some Sport or other among them or at least that there had been the Nuptials of some fair Shepherdess then celebrated At which the Shepherds being weary of dancing were now set down to entertain themselves with the noble Wine of the Country a fat Lamb of their Flocks or with some Rustick Sonnets and old Wives Tales But approaching nearer I was soon undeceiv'd finding an old Grey-bearded Turk sitting in the middle of the Circle like a Conjurer with his Lap full of Pebles Pen Ink and Paper by him and giving each of them their Task which was to turn five of those Stones into so many Dollers by the next day at that time upon pain of being made Slaves and sent chained to the Gallies if they failed This was for their Caratch or Poll-money There were other Accounts also to be made up among them For their Flocks are not their own but the Grand Signiors of which they have the tenth Part of the Profit and Fruit for their Labour paying the other Duties that are imposed upon them The number of Pebles that were then to be made Dollers was Four hundred and thirteen by a People that I dare engage knew nothing of the Philosopher's Stone Their manner of living there is in little Hutts made of long Sedge which they joyn together with Sticks and Wit hs in such sort that a Covering of these keeps off the Rain from the top and as for the Wind as that changeth so they turn their Doors to the Lee of it making a Fire before it These are their Winter Houses when they are forced from the tops of the Mountains covered with Snow into the Valleys For in the Summer they have Villages they live in upon the Mountains and there with greater security feed their Sheep and witner in these little Hutts therein crowding themselves and Wives and Children together Their Habit is ordinarily made of White Cloth of the courser Wool of their Flocks being a large Cloak with a Hood of the same joyned to it and hanging down behind or to cover their Heads with when they have occasion For ordinarily on their Heads they wear a kind of Hat made of Wool in which their Hoods enter not but is flat and sits close to their Heads having a good big Knob on the top and tied under their Chin with long strings like a Cardinal's Cap by which when they please they can let it hang on their Shoulders and put on their Hood Their Under-garment is commonly a Fustian Shirt made so wide that they let it hang sometimes quite on the outside their Breeches The Women have a very odd kind of dress for their Heads being a half Circle or Crescent of Tin or Brass set an end upon their Heads with a Girdle about their Middle of the same Metal composed of many Scales of Brass which is girded about such a Linnen Garment as the Men wear but longer and embroidered with red Yarn about the Neck Sleeves and Bottom Their Shooes are only dried Skins laced together with Leather or Strings about their Feet Having made our Market we returned with more Melancholy than Satisfaction to see these poor Christians in so miserable a Condition bringing with us a very good fat Sheep for five Timins that is about two Shillings which was a Groat more than is usual to pay there for them A prospect of the Corintian gulfe from the City of Lepanto Lib IIII. Fig. II a Tubano or Pelican Patras After a very stormy Night twelfth day in the Morning so soon as we opened the Door of our House we found one of these sorts of Fowls PELICANS we call Pelicans the Modern Greeks Toubana Monsieur Spon thinks the same that Pliny calls Onocrotalus Whether benummed with cold or that it had been shot I know not but we easily caught it with Stones It hath a Body as big as a Swan but the Neck not so long the Feet webbed and is of a grey colour like a common Goose We measured the Beak of this to be seventeen Inches long broad in the largest part an Inch and half from the Beak to the Crown of the Head five Inches The end of the Beak turneth into a sharp Hook which perhaps helps it to catch Fish The under part of the Beak is proportionable to the upper in length and breadth also when it is shut together but when it openeth it enlargeth it so that it becometh as I guess half a foot wide it being of a bending substance much like a Whale's Bone and the two Jaws of it joyned together at the end as if it was but one piece bent together To this near to the entrance of the Throat is joyned a bag of a skinny substance like a Bladder before it is blown which shrinketh it self so much together that it is not seen when the Mouth is shut or the Bag empty but when filled it will stretch to an incredible
Chapel dedicated to St John and above that thre◠Niches for Statues one great one in the middle and two lesser on each side In this Cleft about nine or ten Yards high is a hole which by throwing Stones into it we found to have Water in it and on the right hand I observed some Stairs leading up to it cut out of the Rock but so broken that there was no clambering up We judged this to be the Antrum Corycium or the Grotto of the Nymphs the Poets called by that Name I believe this makes a fine Cascade when there is Water enough falling from the Mountains The Water of Castalia is very good and cool fit to quench the Thirst of those hot-headed Poets who in their Bacchanals spare neither God nor Man and to whom nothing is so sacred but they will venture to profane it Continuing yet upon a Descent we came to a Monastery called Panagia its Church being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin It is situated upon the Brink of the Mountain upon ground held up by antient strong Walls of hewn Stone There we saw several Capitals and Fusts of Corinthian Pillars and other Fragments of Antiquity among which three or four Inscriptions in and about the Church and the Name of Delphos with only these words in the Pavement of the Church ΔΕΛΦΩΠΠΩΛΕΩΣ ΑΠΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΟΥ Others we copied there also which I reserve for another occasion Here are not above three or four Caloyers belonging to this Monastery who brought us of their Bread and very good White Wine We wondered that one of them knew that this Place was antiently called Delphos which he told us he found by some Book he had read For it is not usual that they know any thing of the History of their Country But he was much pleased when we shewed him the Name written in his Church We believed that this Place was where the Gymnasium or Schools stood from Pausanias his words Those saith he that go up from the Gymnasium to the Temple have the Fountain Castalia on the right hand But we bending our Steps contrary to his ought to leave it as we did on our left hand Thence is a great Precipice in which the River Pleistos runneth which Pausanias makes three Stadia or about Four hundred Paces below Into which what the Town and Gardens can spare of Castalia descends into it Returning by the Fountain we observed a great piece of the Rock tumbled down and almost buried on one side of it that lay a little hollow we saw Letters written in large but strange Characters so as we could not make any thing of them We returned to our lodging very well pleased with our days labour although weary with rambling up and down upon those Rocks Being returned whilst Supper was making ready I began to put my Plants I had gathered in order into my Book among the rest I found one which was something like narrow leav'd Bugloss in shape and manner of growing PLANTS of PARNASSUS the leaves long crisped and rough growing one above another upon a Stalk of a foot high Between each leaf is a yellow Flower like Bugloss in shape which is followed by seeds five together in the bottom of a Cup. The whole Plant is so viscous or clammy that it sticketh to ones fingers and is of a very strong sweet smell like Narcissus junei folio which the French call Junculle Monsieur Merchant at Paris called this Stachys Viscosa flore luteo In the Cleft of the Rocks I found another Plant with a leaf something like Pyrola which he called Petromarula Gretica or Lactuca petraea The best and readiest way from hence to Livadia is to pass by the Fountain Castalia by the Monastery and so still keeping under the Mountains between Cirphis and Parnassus for thus it is but half a Days journey from Delphos to Livadia But we could not pass by this Mountain so celebrated by the Poets without passing over it to see what Beauties those really were they so much commend in it And therefore we took our Guide we had the Day before who willingly offered us his service being well acquainted with this Mountain and a fellow naturally ingenious as most of the Greeks are We passed between the Stadium and the Clefts above the Town and presently began to mount making many turns backward and forward to get a little ground in height But I being light made no great matter of it chusing rather to go on foot and have my Horse led than to venture my Neck by a stumble So crossing all the ways I had often time to sit down before my Comrades came to me to view the Plains of Salona and the Gulph of Lepanto below me The way is in some places cut into Stairs in the Rock which seem very antient I observed also a kind of Chanel cut in the Rock in a streight Line downwards which I believe hath been an Aqueduct but now spoiled We were a long Hour before we got to the Top whereon is a pretty large Plain We turned to the right hand to see the two Tops of the Mountain above Delphos and from the Western one I had an excellent Prospect over the Gulph of Lepanto the Mountains of Morea and nearer the Gulph it self South South-West and West until the Mountain Corax and yet nearer hand Mount Cirphis now called Stiva from a Monastery that is on it so called The height of this Top makes Mount Cirphis look from hence like a Plain on the Top and is a kind of Chersonesus the Bay of Salona being on one side of it and another Bay called Asprospiti on the other side of which more hereafter Hence I took the Figure of the Bay of Salona with all the Islands in it which seem'd to lie before me like a Map Between this and the other Top in view from Castri is a deep Precipice where the Water runs down to Castalia How large it may be within I know not yet I doubt not but it may have room enough to be the Antrum Corycium I conceiv'd that Jupiter's Temple was not far from this Place but I found no Remains of it any where Here are now only some Shepherds Hutts and the Place they call Alona Turning back to our way-ward we had the view of the highest Part of Parnassus as high again as we had yet mounted Towards which we passed a high Hill covered with those kind of Pines I described on Olympus where we sometimes passed over and sometimes through Snow and left a Lake on our left hand made by the melting of the Snow and Rain But beyond that is an extream high Point of the Mountain all covered with Snow which Pausanias had some reason to say is almost above the Clouds It was on this Top that it is said Deucalion saved himself and his Wife Pyrrha from the Flood that happened in his time which Place of Retreat he found by the howling of Wolves and therefore called the Town
others keeping the Sheep and are commonly seen up and down in the Fields about that business only Sundays and Holy-days they meet all together in the Church Out of the Seniors the Abbots whom they call Hegoumenoes are chosen every second Year The present Abbot is named Gregorio who is a good ingenious Man and understands the antient Greek indifferently well The Valley round about them belongs to the Convent and bears good Wine Oyl Corn and Honey They have several little Huts up and down where the Caloiros lodge near their Business and these they call Metochia the same word which the antient Greeks used for a Colony Out of this they have a considerable Revenue but of late are so impoverished by some scarce Years that they have been forced to sell their Church-plate to pay the Turk his dues which is Two hundred Dollers a Year or about fifty Pounds English The rest of their Livelihood is Charity which cannot be much in Money out of the Misery that poor People are brought into They have been likewise some Years ago much molested by the Turks who came in companies plundred them misused them and some of them they killed so that the Convent was well near destroyed and at last they were forced to flee to Constantinople to complain of the unsupportable Violences against their Priviledges obtained even from the Turks themselves Upon which they had a Turk granted them to protect them from the like Outrages whom they are obliged to maintain and pay We had the Company of the Hegoumenos a good while and among other things we asked him Who was the Founder of their Convent Who told us That it was the Emperour Romanus Son to Constantine the Seventh and Grand-Son to Leon called the Philosopher and shewed us an old Book that spake of the Building of it and carried us down into a Vault of the Church and shewed us two Tombs which he said were the Tombs of this Emperour and his Empress My Comrade then called to mind an Inscription that we copied from the Walls of Constantinople that speaketh of a Church built by the Emperour Romanus which we should never have judged to have been this had not this good Abbot assured us That it was built by the same Emperour Romanus All of the Inscription that remains perfect is this you here see and perhaps there is not much wanting ΠΑϹΙ-ΡΩΜΑΙΟΙϹ ΜΕΓΑϹ ΔΕϹΠΟΤΗΣ ΕΓΕΙΡΕ ΡΩΜΑÎΟϹ ÎΕΟΠΠΑÎΜΕΓΙϹΤΟΠΤΟΠΔΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΠΕΚ ΒΑΘ .... That is to say The great Emperour Romanus hath built a very great Church for all the Greeks and this Tower from the Foundation Where the word Romaiois ought to be translated Greeks For since the Seat of the Roman Empire was removed from Italy to Constantinople Greece hath been called Romania and now more corruptedly Romelia and the Greeks commonly call themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and their Language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And truly this is the finest Church I saw in all Greece next to Santa Sophia at Constantinople notwithstanding it is old and hath suffered very much by Earthquakes and Time It is built after the Greek manner almost square without it hath a Portico at the West end From which are three Doors to enter into the Church Then there is an indifferent large Cuppalo in the middle and is proportioned within in the shape of a Cross All the Walls are cased with polished Marble and the Pavement laid with Marble of several colours and Jasper and Porphyry c. The Roof and Cuppalo is adorned with antient Mosaick Work in Figures of our Saviour the Blessed Virgin and others with a Gallery round about it sustained by Marble Pillars We observed also several Planks of Transparent Marble of which Monsieur Gulitier a French Gentleman hath made such Wonders in his Account of Athens All the Mystery is That the Marble being cut in thin Planks and withal being of it self a little Transparent the Light looketh a little yellow through it Adjoyning to this on the South-side is another little Church dedicated to the Holy Virgin which hath a pretty Portico sustained by two Corinthian Pillars with their beautiful Chapiters on them Hard by it is another which is above in an upper Room dedicated to Saint Sopito Hither they bring their Sick to lodge and say They are often cured miraculously There we found a Fragment of an Inscription and about the Walls of the Church and Convent several others Those that were not out of the reach of our Eyes we copied One of which is the Dedication of a Fountain and its Ducts of Water to the Emperours amongst the Gods and to the City by one Xenocrates and Eumaridas at their own Charges But the Name of the City is not mentioned ΘΕΟΙΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΙ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΤΗΠΚΡΗÎΗΠΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΟΥΣ ΒΑΜΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΕΠΟΙΚΙΟΠΞΕÎΟΚΡΑΤΗΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΥΜΑΡΙΔΑΣ ΑÎΕΘΗΚΑΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΚΑΙ ΤΗΠΤΟΥ ΥΔΑΤΟΣ ΕΙΣΑΓΩΓΗΠI believe that here might be the antient Stiria if it be not that Village we past by not far from the Convent For here is room enough for a little City and I suppose my Comrade did not observe the Foundations of a Wall on the Top of this Hill as I did another time as also the Ruins underneath in the Valley North of it which they call Palaeo-Stiri or Old Stiria The Covent it self seemeth to have been built out of more antient Ruins and I observ'd many Pillars of gray Marble lying up and down there and other antient hewn Stones Their Accommodation for themselves and Strangers is indifferent good considering the Country and they receive them with as great Civility and Kindness as the Grand Charter-house near Grenoble in the Alps doth though they want their great Revenues and Prosperity They sent for a good Lamb from the Fold and killed it for us and beside with Rice Chickens good Olives Cheese Bread and Wine they gave us a most hearty and Christian Welcome Their Cells are little arched Rooms of Stone and every one hath one to himself Their manner of living is the same with all the Greek Monks using severe Fasting in their Lents and never eating Flesh at any time They rise three hours before day to their Morning-Service Three hours after Sun-rising is their Communion-Service and two hours before night their Evening-Service or Vespers They have other Books also they read between at set Hours in private They told us also That they had many Manuscripts but we saw only ordinary ones as of Service-Books Evangelists Saints Lives c. The best of which was that of St Cosmas and St Damianus with which were joyned the Lives of St Chrysostome St Matthew and St Philip the Apostles upon Vellom well written When I return'd thither afterwards I saw the Works of St Chrysostome which then was in a Fathers Chamber who read it and understands the antient Greek pretty well It is fair written and by the hand should be about five or six hundred Years old They pretend to
Consul Giraud This is a kind of Ridge of the Mountain Cithaeron that runneth out from it Eastward towards Oropus and was sometimes the Bounds of Attica and Boeotia And this Village was in old times perhaps that Harma of Attica HARMA ATTICAE mention'd by the Antients This Village had been pillaged by Pyrates not above two or three days before and they were almost frighted out of their Senses at the sight of us It is strange those Robbers should be so bold as to come so far from Sea and up so bad ways as they must needs do to come hither For from the Corinthian Gulph it is at least fifteen Miles and as much or more from that of Negropont And that they should not be able to defend themselves from so inconsiderable a number of Men as those Pyrates must needs be is as strange But the reason is That in the day-time few of the Men pertaining to that Place are at home being dispersed up and down the Mountains with their Flocks and Herds and are not permitted by the Turks to have Arms in their Houses After Dinner we passed over a Plain for two hours and a half and by the way I observed many Ponds up and down in it with plenty of Wild Ducks and Teal in them one or two of which we shot Here are also many of those Oaks I before described at Troy with great Acorns they gather Vellania from Thence we mounted again until towards Evening we came to the Top of the Mountain Parnes or Parnethes which must not be mistaken for Parnassus This is a great and high Mountain and was the more antient Bounds of the Attica before Citheron came to be so My Companion calleth it now Ozea or Noezaea and 't is very true that part of it viz. going from Attica to Negropont is called so but this is called Chasha from a Village on the side of it in the way down to the Plains of Attica so named Here we lay in a miserable ruin'd Kan without any Door or any other Accommodation belonging to it but what we brought with us only there is a very curious Fountain hard by it where the Wolves and Bears and Wild Boars come to drink to which this Mountain is yet a great Covert For it is indeed almost covered with Pine-trees of which we made a good Fire to keep us from the cold and stopped up the Entrance into the Kan to secure us from the Assaults of Wild Beasts Just by this Place BIGLA-CASTRO upon a Rock in the Passage are the Ruins of an old Castle which they now call Bigla-Castro which signifies a Watch-Tower The Walls that remain seem very antient and are well cemented together of good well hewn and hard Stone The Distance from Athens that Authors give of Phyla and the Description of Xenophon and Diodorus Siculus make me believe that this was antiently called Phyla famous for the Exploit of Thrasibulus who here began his Stratagem for regaining the Liberty of his Country Athens and Attica from the thirty Tyrants imposed on them by the Lacedemonians From this Mountain we looked down with unspeakable Pleasure and Content upon the celebrated Athens we had so long wished to be at with the noble Plains of Attica so famous in antient Story The next Morning we descended the Mountain by a narrow and dangerous way passing by a Village called Chasha about half way down From the Foot of this Mountain to Athens is a very good plain way and of about ten or a dozen Miles thither as I believe for we came not to Athens till near about Noon first passing by a Wood of Olive-trees about three Miles distant from the Town with several pleasant Villages of the Athenians in it and a River running through it This was on Friday January the Twenty-seventh We began now to think our selves come into a more civillized Country than we had yet passed For not a Shepherd that we met but bid us welcom and wished us a good Journey We went and alighted at Mr Jean Giraud's House Consul for the English at Athens who with great Humanity received and entertain'd us during our Stay there doing us all the Friendly Offices we could wish and whom in all respects we found to be a worthy honest and ingenious Man very fit for that Place understanding the Modern Languages very well Now therefore we resolved to rest us some time and to refresh our selves after our tedious and wearisom Journey from Zant. And this we had need enough to do that we might with the more Care and Exactness see view and compare all things necessary to give an Account of this Place that might not deserve so much Censure for the Truth of it as some before us have done The End of the Fourth Book THE Fifth BOOK THE DESCRIPTION OF ATHENS c. ATHENS is the chief City of that Province of Greece which was called in times past Attica a City now reduced to near the lowest Ebb of Fortune But of Fame so great that few Cities in the World can dispute Precedence with her or few pretend to have been her Equals For whether you consider her Antiquity Valour Power Learning or any other Quality that may make a Place illustrious and renowned in the World she still seems triumphant Neither hath any City had a larger share in good and bad Fortune than Athens Her People owned no Original but the Earth they inhabited and scarce allowed the Sun to be elder than they Nor would they acknowledge to have received their Name from any but their chief Goddess Minerva whom they knew by the Name of ΑΘΗÎΑ But they planted many Colonies and gave both Names and Laws to them of which Meursius reckons to the number of forty But the less credulous among them and more judicious Historians agree That Cecrops being the first that reduced the Inhabitants of Attica the Off-spring of the Carians and Aonians under a Political Government did by the same means advance himself to be their King and as the most advantageous Place of his whole Dominions which contain'd all within the Mountains Gerania Oenoa Parnes and Lycabettus that is from the Isthmus to Oropus near the Mouth of the River Asopus chose this Rock which is situated in a large Plain and near the middle of this Country to build the Metropolis of his Kingdom calling it and its whole Territory by his own Name Cecropia whereas it was called before him Actica and also Ionia from Ion the Son of Xuthus Athenoe exparte Marina 1 Bigâ—acastro 2 Temp Minerva 3 Theatrum Bacchi 4 Hag. Maria Spoliotissa 5 Hagia Maria Lycodemo 6 Aquae ductus Hadriani 8 Musaeum 9 Temp Dianae 10 Stadium 11 Temp Câ—reris noâ—nullis 12 Musae Ilissiades This they suppose came to pass not long after Deucalion's Flood Eight hundred and thirty Years before the Building of Rome and about a Thousand five hundred and eighty Years before the Incarnation of our Saviour to which
and cases extraordinary Now if the Areopagus were upon this ridge of the Hill descending from the Castle Hesychius is not so very blameable for putting it in that Acropolis for this Hill is part of the Rock the Castle stands upon And Suidas saith That Pagus signifies a Rock Hill or other eminent place All which doth clearly insinuate that this so celebrated place of the Athenian Judicature was built upon this Hill whence it was called Mars his Hill because upon it Mars had suffered Judgment in a solemn Assembly for the Murder of Halirrhothius Son of Neptune I shall only add That if these conjectures of mine touching the Areopagus and Fountain there be good it will make a great alteration in the Names which Travellers have hitherto given to sundry Antiquities in Athens For it followeth that the Temple of Ceres was near that place and not on the Banks of Eilissus and that the Fountain Caliro there also was neither Calirrhoe Hallirrhothium nor Hennâ—acrene as indeed it could not be For that Fountain on the River Ilissus was never within the Walls of the City as those were no more than the River Eilissus it self that ran by its Eastern Walls This also helps something to vindicate the regularity of Pausanias his Description of Athens and without which he will be said to have done it with the greatest confusion imaginable I doubt also Authors confound this Fountain Halirrhothium with Calirrhoe the Fountain of Calydou in Aetotia of which I have spoken something already in what I have said at Patras From this Fountain keeping along the ridge of the Hill a little way North-Westwards under a cragged Rock is a ruined Church they say was formerly dedicated to Saint Dennys the Areopagite and by it is the Palace of the Archbishop of Athens They believe it was built on the Foundations of the Palace that most Illustrious Senator lived in who was the first Christian and first Bishop of Athens Of this Church there is nothing to be seen now but a heap of ruines and a Well where they say Saint Paul hid himself for a little while seeing the people put in an uproar upon his Preaching in the Areopagus This Tradition seems to confirm my opinion that the Areopagus stood hereabouts Lib V Fig XI Templum Thesei Descending this Hill Northwards from the Archbishops Palace The TEMPLE OF THESEUS out of Town is the Temple of Theseus a Building in all respects like the Temple of Minerva in the Castle as to its matter form and order of Architecture but not so large For the Portico that is raised upon half a dozen of steps or degrees is but an hundred and one foot long and forty four foot and a half broad and each degree one foot two inches and a half deep the Cella fifty four foot long and twenty broad The Beauty of this Structure is not at all prejudiced by its littleness but still remains a Master-piece of Architecture not easie to be parallel'd much less exceeded by any other Much of the History of Theseus is expressed in Relievo on the Pronaos of the Front and West end where all the Locks and Art of Wrestling seem admirably well express'd There are some also in Womens Habits as I suppose to express the War of the Amazons Pausanias seems to describe all this as painted and indeed the Frize is adorned with square Pannels round the outside which may have been painted in former times but is long since washed away by the weather to shew the natural Beauty of the white Marble This was built presently upon the Battle of Marathon against the Persians It is now dedicated to Saint George instead of that in the Castle when Athens sell into the hands of the Turks ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗΙ ΕΠΙ ΤΟΥ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΕΙ .... ΙΟΠΠΟÎΤΙ ΚΟΠΑΡΧΟÎΤΑ ΕÎΙΑΥΤΟΥ Η ΠΡΥ ΤΑÎΕΙΑΣ ΟΙ ΠΡΥΤΑÎΕΙΣ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΠΔΕΙΟÎΙΔΟΣ ΦΥΛΗΣ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΑÎΤΕΣ ΑΥ ΤΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥΣ ΑΙΣΕΙΤΟΥΣ ΑÎΕΓΡΑΨΑΠΕΠΩÎΥΜΟΣ ΘΕΟΠΟΜΠΟΣ ΘΑΛΑΜΟΥΠΑΙΑ ΠΑΙΑÎΙΕΙΣ ΦΛ. ΑΡΙΑÎΟΣ c. ΣΤΕΙΡΙΕΙΣ ΓΕΛΛ ΤΕΙΜΟΘΕΟΙ c. After this follows a Catalogue of Names of Men of these and some other Towns of the Tribe of Pandion ending with several Officers belonging to the Councel of the Pritanes which I omit because it is long having too little time now to transcribe it and examine it as it deserves It signifies That then and after Julius Ponticus was Archon the eighth Year of his being Prytane That the Prytanes of the Tribe of Pandion honouring these Men enrolled them among those that supped daily in the Assembly of Prytanes Within the Quire or Holy place is a piece of a Pillar made hollow on the top I suppose for a Font to baptize in on the sides of which are two large ancient Inscriptions one whereof I copied but not the other it stood so in a corner against the Wall Hard by this was formerly the Gymnasium of Ptolomy which I suppose may be a Foundation West of the Temple of Theseus now even with the ground in which is a large Stone of Egyptian Granate Marble but I observed nothing else from the Temple of Theseus If you keep along without the Town you will cross the way to Lepsina and pass by a Church called Chrysospiliotisa and come to that point of the Town I told you was directly West by North from Mount Saint George or Anchesmus Between the Church and it is one way out of the Town on the left hand which is the way to Pyraea or Portlione and the other straight forward to Eleusinia Going forwards towards the North-side of the Town you go by the Gate that leadeth into the Town by the way of Thebes and by it is the Church of St Theodorus and a little further another Church called Hagia Kyra and the way from Athens to Negropont still continuing yet onwards without the Town you pass by several other entrances into the City and ways out into the Country until you come to a Church they call Sotira Lycodemou on the East-side of the Town between the Town and Mount St George Here is supposed to have been the Lycaeum for Sotira Lycodemou is as much as to to say Our Lady of the Lycaeum being on that side of the Town where the antient Place of the Lycaeum was said to be to wit towards the River Eilissus The Church now standing there is a Building of Brick and other Materials they found about the Place of no antienter Date than the publick Profession of Christianity if so long There are two great Chairs of Stone one within the Church and another without both of very antient Work On that within are some few Figures in Basso-relievo and these Letters ΒΟΗΘΟΣ ΔΙΟΔ Boethus Son of Diodorus I remember Pliny somewhere speaks of a great Sculptor of this Name but his chiefest Skill was in Silver-work And this is what I observed to remain without the present Town But if from the Temple of Theseus you go the nearest way directly into the Town North-Eastward you will come to
honour the Emperour But that of the Athenians justly excelleth the rest who in honour of this their great Friend and Benefactour Hadrian erected that stately Colossus which is behind the Temple a worthy sight More within are the things of old time as the Jupiter of Brass being as is supposed of Deucalion's Dedication the Temple of Saturn and Rhea the Grove or consecrated Place called Olympias in which there is a hole of a Cubit's bigness where the Waters of Deucalion's Flood they say were received and suck't in Into this hole they put yearly certain wheaten Cakes mixed with Honey Isocrates his Statue is said to stand against a Pillar here But that Deucalion built the first and most antient Temple or Hieron of Jupiter Olympius all here agree and that he liv'd and dyed at Athens from his Tomb which they say is there not far from the present Temple Much might be said out of all this but I shall content my self to give my Thoughts concerning it on the Scheme I have designed of what remains which in short is thus First I suppose the Porch over the Street is the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and West to it the Front of the Temple which was built by the Emperour Hadrian wherein was the Image of Jupiter and that the four Walls about it were the utmost Bounds of the Peribolus or Court and of the whole Temple That where the Pillars are at the Front were placed the Statues called the Colonies Within that space was the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Sacred Place whether it was a Grove or Place of Sacrifice Altar c. wherein was the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Vetus Sacrarium the old Temple and Altar supposed to be built by Deucalion In what Parts the Pillar of Isocrates and the Temple of Saturn stood is uncertain but it 's likely on some hand or other from the Entrance We guessed that the Wall of the Front had been plated with Metal by places that look't as if something had been in that manner fastened to them and afterward broken or pulled off But upon second Thoughts I rather believe it was placed where the Statues of the Colonies had been fastened to the Walls The Marble of the Pillars is not of that sort which was fetch 't from Pentelicus as the rest of the Building and Chapters are but of a streaked Marble white and greenish Now from the Topick of Hadrian's Munificence Pausanias leapeth to the Temples of Jupiter and Jund Panathenians and from them to the Pantheon and at last to the Hundred and twenty Pillars built by Hadrian but without mentioning their Situation After this he comes to take notice of a Statue made to the Pythian Apollo and of a Temple sacred to Apollo called Delphinium near to the Temple of Jupiter Olympius But of these after all our Enquiry we could find no Remains Passing through this Temple Eastwards you come into the Bazar or Market place where on the right hand is a Mosque which they say was formerly the Cathedral Church But it was rebuilt by the Turks since and is altogether now a new Fabrick Within the Court of it we saw two large Corinthian Capitals and an Altar or Pedestal for a Statue with Feâ—â—ins carv'd about it sustain'd by Bulls-heads But we searched in vain for the Horses of Praxiteles which Monsieur Guilitier hath told the World of Nor could we judge this Mosque here to be any more a Pantheon than the meanest Mosque in all Turky Turris Andronici Lib V. Fig. XIIII Not far from the Bazar going up towards the Castle The TEMPLE OF THE EIGHT WINDS is the Temple of the Eight Winds of which Pausanias makes no mention But Vitruvius describes it shewing That those who had made more particular Observation of the Winds had divided them into Eight as namely Andronichus Cyrrhastes who gave this Model to the Athenians For he built a Tower eight square of Marble and on every side he had carved the Figure of a Wind according to the Quarter it did blow from On the Top of the Tower he erected a little Pyramid of Marble and on the Point of it placed a Brazen Triton which held a Switch in his right hand wherewith turning about he pointed at the Wind that then blew This Tower remains yet entire the Weather-Cock only excepted The Stones that cover the Top are divided into many Quarters of whole Stones resting upon the Walls of the Tower and all end in a point on the Top. On each side of the Tower is cut a Figure opposite to the Eighth Quarter of the Winds representing the Nature of that Wind for which it is designed Under those Figures on each side are Sun-Dials accommodated to each side of the Tower according to the Degrees of Declination and divided from the Figures of the Winds by a Frize Each side is ten foot and a half long The Height of it we took not because great part of it is buried under Ground Each Wind answereth exactly to the Compass and above each Figure is written its Name in large Greek Letters which are these that follow I. ΕΥΡΟΣ Eurus is that which sheweth it self first towards the Street and is between South and East and the same that we call South-East the Italians Sirocco The Figure of it young winged naked and bringeth nothing II. ΑΠΗΛΙΩΤΗΣ Apeliotes which the Latines used to call Subsolanus not the same with Eurus as Cluverius makes it The Italians and French call it Levanto and Levant we East It is a young Figure winged and carrieth in his Mantle all sorts of Fruits as Pears Apples Citrons Pomgranates shewing That this Wind made the Country fruitful in such things His flying is but in a kind of sedent posture III. ΚΑΙΚΙΑΣ Caecias is the North-East Wind and the same they call upon the Mediterranean Graeco and in the Venetian Gulph Birrhino It is represented like a bearded Old Man who holds a Charger of Olives turning them down or spilling them Whence I rather think this Wind is hereby noted as Destructive to Olives and other Fruits of the Earth and not Favourable to them and consequently as pernicious a Wind at Athens as North-East is accounted by us Whence came the Proverb North-East good for neither Man nor Beast IV. ΒΟΡΕΑΣ Boreas Aquilo Septentrio which the Italians call Tramontano the French from them Tramontane Septentrione answers exactly to our North. It is represented by a bearded Old Man winged and booted but holdeth nothing but his Mantle before him to shelter him from the cold Wind because he is a barren Wind bringing nothing V. ΣΚΙΡΟΠSkiron which was the same antiently with Argestes It was called Skiron at Athens because it blew from those Rocks that are called Skironides as Strabo and Pliny have it Upon the Enxiue Seas it was called ΘΡΑΣΚΙΑΣ because it came from Thrace-wards to them The Lutines call it Canrus or Corus the Italians Maestro and We North-West It is a winged bearded and
South-East by East 5. Mâ—cronisa in times past Helena beginneth South-East and endeth South-East by South 6. An Island called S. Georgio di Alboro toward Milo South by West 7. Cape Schilâ—o or the Promontorium Schillaeum of the Morea forming the Saronick Gulph South South-West 8. The highest point of Aegina by us called Engia South-West by West 9. Another Island which I think is Lavousa West by South 10. Corinth West by North. 11. Paleovouni or Geranea mons West North-West Macriplai in the same Line a little more North And between them is Megara 12. Helicon now called Zagara North-West by West 13. Cithaeron now Elataea beginneth North-West by West endeth North-West by North. 14. Parnes mons now Chasha and Nozea beginneth North-West by North endeth North by East It s highest Point North The way over it to Chalcis now Egripus North by East 15. Pentelicus mons its highest Point North-East by North. 16. Porto Raphti antiently Panormus Portus on the Attick Shore South-East by East 17. Promenâ—orâ—◠〈◊〉 now Capo Colonni South by East 18. Pâ—trocâ—â— Insidâ— now called Guidronisa South 19. Phâ—larâ—ns Portâ—â— Munichia and beyond them the Island Salamis now Colouri West 20. Piraens Portus now Porto Draconi by the Turks Porto Lioni by the Francks West by North. 21. The Promontory Amphialia and streight between Salamis and Attica West North-West 22. Eleusis now Lepsina North-West by West 23. A Hill about a Mile from Athens in the way to Cape Colonni whence I took another Prospect of Athens West North-West 24. The Wood of Olive-Trees on the River Cephisus begins West North-West ends North North-West 25. Athens-Castle North-West by West 26. Anchesmus or Mount S. Georgio id After I had done this and taken some of the prospects of the Mountains as the little time I had would permit I made all the haste I could down although very unwillingly so soon for fear of being benighted as Mr. Vernon was on the same account and shut out of the Town putting the Consul to a great deal of care and trouble for his safety being gone out alone a foot and without a Guide The first time I went forth with my Companion and the Consul we losing our labour by reason of the Snow that fell returned down the nearest way we could passing by three Monasteries that lay on that side of the Mountain The first in descending is called Hagio-Jani ho Carias The second is now deserted and they say the Italians had formerly a Church there in common with the Greeks called Hagios Georgios ho Koutelas The third is called Hagios Kyriani by the Greeks and by the Turks Cosbashi because of a Sheeps Head engraven on a Marble-Sepulchre now made use of for a Cistern to the Fountain arising there whose stream falls into the Ilissos The Covent is well enough built for that Country where they do not strive to excel in stately Buildings but rather to hide themselves as much as they can in obscurity from the World This Mountain is celebrated for the best Honey in all Greece of which it makes a great quantity to send to Constantinople where it is much esteemed for making Sorbets They use therefore to bring all the Honey made hereabouts to be marked with the Mark of this Monastery of Cosbashi to make it sell the better We eat of it very freely finding it to be very good and were not at all incommodated with any Gripings after it This Mountain was not less famous in times past for Bees and admirable Honey the Antients believing that Bees were first bred here and that all other Bees were but Colonies from this Mountain which if so we assured our selves that it must be from this part of the Mountain that the Colonies were sent both because the Honey here made is the best and that here they never destroy the Bees It is of a good consistence of a fair gold-colour and the same quantity sweetens more water than the like quantity of any other doth which they sufficiently experience in making Sorbet They wondred at my Comrade in that he preferred the white Honey of France as that of Provence is telling him the white Honey was raw and not perfectly concocted either by Nature or the Bees Strabo I remember saith The best Honey of Hymettus was by the Silver Mines But where they were is now unknown unless hereabouts by the same reason Now the best Argument to prove that Bees had their original from hence is That here they never destroy or impair the Stock of Bees in taking away their Honey A thing which I no sooner knew but I was inquisitive to understand their Method in Ordering the Bees which being an Art so worthy the Knowledge of the Curious I shall not think it beside the purpose to relate what I saw and was informed to that effect by such as had Skill in this Place Lib. VI. The Greek Beehive The Hives they keep their Bees in ORDERING OF BEES are made of Willows or Osiers fashioned like our common Dust-Baskets wide at the Top and narrow at the Bottom and plaister'd with Glay or Loam within and without They are set the wide end upwards as you see here A. B. The Tops being covered with broad flat Sticks as at C. C. C. are also plaistered with Clay on the Top and to secure them from the Weather they cover them with a Tuft of Straw as we do Along each of those Sticks the Bees fasten their Combs so that a Combe may be taken out whole without the least bruising and with the greatest ease imaginable To increase them in Spring time that is in March or April until the beginning of May they divide them first separating the Sticks on which the Combs and Bees are fastened from one another with a Knife so taking out the first Combs and Bees together on each side they put them into another Basket in the same Order as they were taken out until they have equally divided them After this when they are both again accommodated with Sticks and Plaister they set the new Basket in the Place of the old one and the old one in some new Place And all this they do in the middle of the day at such time as the greatest part of the Bees are abroad who at their coming home without much difficulty by this means divide themselves equally This Device hinders them from swarming and flying away In August they take out their Honey which they do in the day-time also while they are abroad the Bees being thereby they say disturbed least At which time they take out the Combs laden with Honey as before that is beginning at each out-side and so taking away until they have left only such a quantity of Combs in the middle as they judge will be sufficient to maintain the Bees in Winter swee ping those Bees that are on the Combs they take out into the Basket again and again covering it with new Sticks and Plaister All that I doubt concerning the
Practice of this here in England is that perhaps they gather a less quantity of Honey and that should they take the like quantity of Honey from the Bees here in England they would not leave enough to preserve them in Winter But this hinders nor much For by being less covetous and not taking so much Honey from the poor Bees the great enerease and multiplying of them would soon equalize and far exceed the little Profit we make by destroying of them This is done without Smoak wherefore the Antients call this Honey 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Vnsmoaeken Honey And I believe the Smoak of Sulphur which we use takes away very much of the Fragrancy of the Wax and sure I am the Honey can receive neither good Taste nor good Smell from it This Convent payeth but one Chequin for all its Duties to the Veivode It is a piece of Gold of the Venetian Coyn worth two Dollers and an half and about twelve Shillings English The reason of which small Tribute is that when Athens was taken by Mahomet the Second the Hegoumeno or Abbot of this Convent was sent by the Town to deliver him up the Keyes of the Gates which Mahomet was so glad of that to testifie his Joy and Content and to recompense the Messenger he exempted this Convent from all manner of Taxes and Customs reserving only one Chequin to be paid as a Quit-Rent for an Acknowledgment The present Abbot is called Ezekiel Stephaki who lives at Athens and is a learned Man for that Country understanding the Antient Greek very well and Latine indifferently with a little Italian He understands Philosophy too so far as to be esteemed a Platonist and notwithstanding that he is an Abbot yet he professes not to be a Divine but a Physician In my Return to Athens I was daily with him and of him I learned to read Greek according to the Modern Pronunciation I found him to be really a good discreet and understanding Man and what Piques soever have been between the Beninzueloe's and him peradventure have proceeded rather from the Emulation of the first than from any just or real Cause given by him I easily perceiv'd he was not over-fond of some of the Greekish Superstitions But for all that he seems to be both a good Man and a good Christian and that whatever they talk of him otherwise are but Trifles and perhaps undeâ—erv'd He hath some Manuscripts especially St John Damasoen which he offer'd to exchange with me for an Atlâ—s if I sent it him But I have not yet had an Opportunity to send it The rest of the Convents about this Mountain are called Asteri Hagios Ioannes Kynigos and Hagios Ioannes o Theologos There is another Convent near Mount St George called Asωmatos Mount Hymettus is now called Telovouni towards the North-East end and Lambravouni towards the South-West end by the Greeks as my Comrade observes This last they call Lambravouni from a ruined Town called Lambra or Lambrica situated under Mount Hymettus South and is a Corruption of the ancient Lampra which they pronounce Lambra But this is only a Point of the Mountain that lieth behind the other and is scarce seem from Athens being also separated from the rest of Hymettus by a narrow Valley through which lieth the way from Athens to Capo Colonni But I remember not that I heard it called by the Athenians otherwise than Imet or T is Imettes Vouni that is Hymettus Mountain But the Francks call it Monte-Matto which is but another manifest Corruption of Mount Hymettus Lib VI Aristolochia Longê° ibd clematitis Lib. VI. Scoizanera bulbosa II. At another time we went to see the Sea-Coasts of Athens II. To the SEA-COASTS of ATHENS towards the Saronick Gulph and to survey the antient Harbours along that Shore So taking Horses we directed our Course to the Eastern Point of the Bay Phalara In our way about a couple of miles out of Town we passed through the Athenian Vineyards and came to the Eastern end of a Marshy Lake called by Xenophon Phalaraea Palus but now Tripyrga because there were as they say three Towers by it which probably were the ruines of the Town of Limne This Lake stretcheth it self in length at least three miles along the Shore and from the Eastern end of it runneth a little Rivulet into the Sea not far from the Eastern Point of the Bay of Phalara where stands a little ruined Church called St. Nicholo The place I believe was antiently called Colias Promontorium From this to the Western Point is about three miles to which we went continuing along the shore making a great circumference till we came where the Portus Phalareus was situate at the North-West corner of the bottom of the Bay and is called now only Porto There remains yet the little Harbour to be seen with part of the Walls that secured it But it is now chok'd up with the Sand and so shallow that only small Boats lye there Neither doth the Bay afford any secure Harbour as lying open to the South Easterly and Westerly Winds and Ships that drop Anchor there are forced to keep aâ— large for want of sufficient depth So that the Antients had very good reason to change their station for Ships from hence to Piraea Hard by are the ruines of the Town and Castle belonging to it being 〈◊〉 four miles from Athens Still coasting Westwards a mile or two we came to another Harbour called in times past Munichia which was then though but small yet a very good and secure Harbour but is now quite chok'd up and useless A little from the shore there are seen ruines of Vaults pieces of Pillars and hewn Stones under water and on the shore hard by are many more besides Caves digg'd in the Rocks Vaults Walls broken Pillars and the foundations of a Temple which we guessed to be that of Diana of Munichia Thence to the raines of Pitaea is but a little way I do not believe much above a quarter of a Mile going in a streight Line But going by the Sea-Coasts by reason of the crookedness of the Shore it may be neâ—â— two miles Which shews the errour of Ptolomy and our modern Geographers that follow him who make them at least ten miles distant from each other whereas indeed Phalara which is furthest off from Pâ—â—aea is not at most above four miles distant But the Shore indeed is almost formed into a Peninsula in the Neck of which Phalard lyeth to the East and Piraea to the West Portus Piraeus is called at present by the Greeks Porte-Dracone and by the Franks Porto-Lione PORTOLIONE by reason of a Lion of Marble of admirable work placed at the bottom of the Bay in a posture of sitting but erected upon his fore-feet It is ten foot high and by a hole pierced through it answering to its mouth appears to have been a Fountain There is such another in the way from Athens to Eleusis in a couchant
called Lambra-Vouni because of its nearness to Lambra and the other Telo-vouni which thence descends with a sharp point into the Sea and making a Promontory now called Halikes but anciently Zoster Just before it are four little Islands or rather Rocks they call Cambonisia The Button Island When we were past these Ridges of Mount Hymettus we came into the Plain of Athens where leaving two Villages as we passed Cocouvannes and Menidi the one on the right hand and the other on our left we arrived at Athens by that time it was dark I shall now return to Monsieur Spon V. From Athens to the Convent Penteli Marathon c. and with less regret take my leave of Athens and all its reverend Antiquities Our design was to pass quite thorough Greece to Monte Santo or Mount Athos and so into Germany And to that intent agreed with Morates our Druggerman and Jani our Hagoiates or Guide for himself and Horses to Accompany us as far as the Turkish Territories extended that way or to some Caravan nearer and more for our convenience Having thus Ordered our affairs and made the best Provision we could against human Exigencies we parted from Athens upon Wednesday the twenty ninth of February 1675 6. Leaving the way of Porto Raphti on the right hand and keeping under Mount Anchesmus on our left first by the Covent Hagio Asomato and then by the place where the Waters are collected into Chanels to be carried to Athens after two or three Miles riding through Olive-Yards ANGELOPICO we came to a place called Angelo-pico where the better sort of Christian Athenians come to enjoy the pleasant shades in the heat of Summer to their little Country Houses situate in a Wood of Olives Cypress's Oranges Lemon-Trees mixed with Vine-Yards This may be the Angela of the Ancients with whom those of Pallena would not marry because of the Traiterous Herald that discovered to Theseus the design of Pallas to set on the City at two places at once But Theseus being thus advertiz'd set upon those that lay in Ambuscade and wholly defeated their Army A Mile or two further we passed by a Village CALLANDRI called Callandri which is also seated amongst Olive-Yards and had some other ancient name but what I cannot at present determine After two hours riding in all we came to the Monastery Pendeli which lyeth under a Mountain bearing the samé name MONS PENTELICUS whose top is seen from Mount Saint George and Athens North East The Covent of Penteli is one of the most celebrated Monasteries of all Greece and did undoubtedly take its name from the Mountain and Town Pentelicus or Pentela although it be now called Pendeli Pendeli Covent and by the more unlearned sometimes Mendeli For the Greeks pronounce T after N like a D and so write the place 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Penteli though they pronounce it Pendeli They consist of above a hundred Caloiroes and more than a hundred and thirty persons in number having a considerable revenue belonging to them They are under the Protection of the Sultaness Mother for which they pay to the New Mosque she built some years since at Constantinople yearly six thousand pound weight of Honey and are obliged to furnish it with as much more at the price of five Dollars the Quintal They seldom have less than five thousand Stocks of Bees beside much Arable Land and Flocks of Sheep and Herds of Cattel together with large Vine-Yards and Olive-Yards and want no other conveniences that the manner of their life requireth The Seniors of the House have all Chambers to themselves with Novices to wait on them Besides I believe the situation of the place in Summer time must needs be very agreeable being between the Ridges of the Mountain with divers curious Fountains issuing out of it which are received into Pools to keep Fish in and turn their Mills as they pass They are shaded with Woods of several sorts of Trees which moderate the heat of the Summer and furnish them with sufficient Fewel against the cold of the Winter which is sharp enough there the top of the Mountain being then still covered with Snow They have not only this Provision for the Body but have also a Library of Good Books to inform their Minds though I fear they make but little use of them Their Books are all Manuscripts and consist chiefly of the Greek Fathers most of which we found there I took notice of Saint Chrysostom in six Volums Saint Basil upon the Psalms and other his Works Saint John Damascen his Works in Folio Saint Gregory Nazianzen Saint Gregory Nyssen A Lexicon of Saint Cyrills The Works of Saint Macarius the Great A very fine Saint Dionysius the Areopagite the Titles whereof are in Golden Letters the whole Book very fairly written upon Velome and ancient His Works are highly esteemed at Athens and to be undoubtedly his The Weather being very bad Snowy Rainy and Windy we were willing to spend that day there being entertained by the Good Fathers with all the Courtesie imaginable They made us an excellent Fire which was but needful For although there be no very great hard Frosts in these Countries it is nevertheless sometimes extream cold especially when the Winds blow over the Mountains covered with Snow as then it happened to do over Pendelico with such a force as we were scarce able to sit our Horses nor hinder the Cold from passing thorough all the Cloths we could put on But this bad weather did not cool our Curiosity so much but that after we had refreshed our selves we took a Guide to go up and shew us the Quarries of White Marble with the other curious Grottoes of Congelations hewen into the sides of the Mountain We ascended about a Mile Northward of the Covent and passed over a small stream in the way not far from it Grottoes We found the Grottoes in the Rock are well worth seeing being hewn a considerable way into the Mountain and divided into a great many Caverns or petty Cells incrusted with curious Congelations Some sparkle like Walls of Diamond which being broken splitteth into Talcum Some shew like Scenes of Trees and Woods afar off We crept down to one near twenty Fathom by a narrow way on our hands and feet to a Fountain they say in Summer is so cold one cannot abide ones hands in it a Pater noster which is a very short space of time that work being usually dispatcht with great Expedition as well in the Greek as Latin Church They hold that the ancient Christians used to hide themselves there in times of perseoution The Mountain there is a perfect Rock of White Marble Quarries and hard by we saw the Quarries where vast quantities of it had been hewed out for the most eminent structures of Athens Whereupon we no longer doubted but this was the ancient Mountain Pentelicus so often mentioned by Pausanias for
fair Plain stretched out a great length to the North-West and South-East and is in breadth to the Seawards at least half a dozen Miles The Sea here maketh a large Gulf between the firm Land and the Island it being the Sea of Locris as may easily be gathered out of Strabo and the most Northern Promontory of Euboea appearing from thence as lying North-North-East This Plain should be well tilled and peopled from the many Villages which from this prospect appear strewed up and down upon it CNEMIS Mons. The more Northern part of this Mountain should be Mount Cnemis from whence the Locri of this Country were called Locri Epicnemides But the Southern side of it which seems to be but a Ridge of the greater Mountain and runneth along between the Lake of Libadia this Plain and the Sea is more likely hereabouts to have been called Cirtonum mons CIR TONUM Mons. Hence also beyond this Gulph Northwards a great way off I discovered vast high Mountains cover'd with Snow which I took to be the famous Olympus of Thessaly Descending this Hill into the Plain there is a little stream coming out of it which to me seems to be the ancient River Platanius which of old separated Boeotia from Locris at the Town Hala as Pausanias affirmeth and Strabo seems to intimate where after having spoken of Anthidon the last Town of Boeotia on that shore as Homer makes it he says that nevertheless going further there are two other Towns viz. Larimna by which the River Cephisus runneth into the Sea and going yet further this Hala bearing the same name with those of Attica The place is corrupted as the Learned Casaeubon observ'd but I wonder he did not observe where the mistake lay For the Copists have written 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 instead of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as is evident out of Pausanias and the very place it self For Strabo having before spoken of two Towns whereof Larimna was one why should he put 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the plural number for the other Town without adding its proper name But Strabo adds also 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which demonstrates that he wrote 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and not 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of which name there were two Towns in the Country of Attica But undoubtedly both Larimna and Halai here mentioned belonged in more ancient times to the Locri Opuntii as may be easily shewed out of Pausanias Being descended into the Plain we kept the Mountain on our right hand and in about half an hours riding more we came to a Town situated on the brow of it THALANDA called Thalanda This is yet a large Town and hath been incomparably greater in ancient times as the Ruins for about a Mile out of Town and the many old Churches and Towers that stand far above it on the Hill do manifest It is much too big to be taken for the Village Hala that Pausanias places on the right hand of the River Platanius upon the Sea shore bearing the face of the Metropolitan City of a Country which if I understand Strabo aright can be no other than that famous City Opus of the ancients which gave name to the Country and Sea before it LOCRI OPUNTII SINUS OPUNTIUS ATALANTA viz. Locri Opuntii and Sinus Opuntius My Reasons for it are these First The distance that Strabo placeth it from the Sea which is about two Miles or fifteen Stadia But the little Island that he speaks of before it called then Atalanta but now without a name puts it out of question And thence I guess the Town that now is hath borrowed its present name time and so many Ages intervening having devoured its first Letter A and new-modelled the rest after the Greek pronunciation For they write it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but pronounce it Thalanda T. after N being still pronounced like D. And as to the Town Halae it might have been at the Mouth of the River which in its course may bend more Eastwards and so make the bounds of Boeotia and Locris all that fruitful Plain between Thalanda and the Mountain Knemis INEMIS was in all probability that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the happy plain of which that Author speaks This Town may contain five or six thousand Souls of Greeks Jews and Turks and is a Bishoprick subject to the See of Athens My Guide being alone with me was so timerous here that he would not go up and down the Town as in other places we had used to do for fear we should be taken for Spies So that as to what particulars of Antiquity remain here and might have been observ'd by us had we used our wonted liberty I can at present give no account We parted hence the next Morning Eastwards still under the Hill The Plain growing now more and more narrow between the Sea and the Mountains in which manner it held us about two hours riding until we came to a little Bay into which there runneth five or six large Streams They run from under the Mountain hard by and turn four Mills under the Wheels not full thirty Yards from their Sources They come out from the Lake of Livadia hard by the Town of Polea which is on the other side of this Hill by the Lake as I was afterwards informed From thence our way lying South-Eastwards was rough up-hill and down-hill until about Noon we came to a Town called Proscina upon the same Hill PROSCINA This Town consists of about an hundred Houses of Christians for the most part and seems an ancient place being very probably that which in Strabo's and Pausanias his time was called Acraephium or Acraephnium ACR AEPHNIUM which was situated upon the Mountain Ptoos After Dinner we mounted again up higher according as our Road lay over a well-cultivated Country on the Hills which I doubt not but in old time made the Plain of Athamas nor can the Wooded Hills above them be thought to want chace more now than they did of old After three hours riding from Proscina we came to the other side of the Hill to many of the Subterraneous Passages of the Lake of Livadia into the Sea KATABATHRA which they call Katabathra and Catabathos our way hither lying still South These Subterraneous or rather Submontaneous Passages of the Water may very well be reckoned amongst the greatest Wonders of the World to accomplish which both Art and Nature seem to have been so industrious that it is hard to determine unto which of them we ought to give the glory of the work For here Art seems to excel nature and yet the greatness of the work is such that it seems no less apparently to excell the power of human industry Therefore since our Modern Writers are upon this matter wholly silent and from the ancients so slender an account of it is come down to us as is altogether unintelligible I shall be