there has been War between the Bishops of Utrect and the Earls of Holland for it the place standing in a fruitfull pleasant Soyl. It is rather long than square and adorn'd with fine Gardens the Prince of Orange is Lord of it Now let us follow the Frontier of Brabant to the West As soon as you come out of the Lordship of Altena you meet with the strong Town of Gertrudenbergue divided from Holland by a great Lake that the Rhene and the Meuse make before Dort It is almost a half Moon of which two thirds are bath'd with the Water of the Lake and has excellent Bastions Besides there are Forts with Sluces which can drown the rest of the ground which lies low In the year 1321. the Castle was built and a 100. year after both the Town and the Cathedrall Church were both burnt down by those of Dort who took it after a long siege It belongs now to the Prince of Orange having often chang'd Masters by the chance of War There is taken before it great quantities of Salmon but I have heard a Citizen relate that in the time of the War their Fishing fail'd because of the great noise of the Canonadoes that frighted all the Fish away To go from Gertrudenbergue by land to Clundert you must leave Breda on the left hand and pass by Sevenberg a Lordship which depends on Brabant Clundert has eight Bastions and some Ravelins and was first wall'd by Prince William the first whose it was and since fortified It has a fine Church and good Bells Willemstradt is hard by a Town which bears the name of its founder It has seven Bastions a double Ditch and a fair Harbour It has Brabant on the South and Zeeland on the North which seems to communicate to it something of the courseness of its Air for here are bred Feavers very hard to be cur'd insomuch as those that have them seem as if they were bewitched The Citizens of Leyden can testifie it to their cost for many of them were in Garrison there in the War time and when they came home some died some lingred a great while and in all I know not above three that scap'd being very sick I have spoke of these little Towns only for their Fortifications let us now see the Islands that are over against Zeeland The first is Overslac you must land at Olâ—rens Plact a Village where the Fleet of Shallops was to have landed 1631. In the said Island which is very fertile in Corn is a fair Village call'd Sommerdiâ—ke the Lord of which was Governor of Nimmegue At the end of this Island is another in which is the Town of Gouree the Harbour of which is now stop'd up with Sand. Between Gouree and Helwetsluys there is a great depth of Water where the greatest Ships may ride Now we are come to the Island of Vorne the chiefest place of which is the Briel then Geervliet where there was a Colledge of Canons and Huervliet a fine place belonging to Mr. de Kerchove high Huntsman of Holland The rest of this Island which ends at Dort is call'd Beyerland and the other part Stryac where there are many rich Villages the best of which is Isselmond CHAP. XVIII Of the Towns that are in Goylant near the South-Sea WE have seen the borders of this Province towards Gueldres Utrect Brabant and Zeland we have now a journey to take South-East before we go directly North to see three small Towns From Amsterdam you go by Sea to Naerden the chief Town of Goylant It has been destroyed and then built up again the old foundations are yet to be seen in the South-Sea when a certain Winde blows and drives out the Sea The Citizens of this place acquir'd great reputation by taking that Traytor Gerrard de Velsen who was carrying the Earl Florent prisoner into England In the year 1355. the second Town was built and adorn'd with priviledges by the Duke William of Bavaria In 1481. they of Utrect having given the Hollanders a great overthrow surprized the Town of Naerden by an ingenious stratagem for they dress'd a good number of young Souldiers like Countreywomen going to Market who being let in seized a Gate of the Town and gave entrance to the enemies the Citizens redeem'd themselves from fire and sword by a great summe of money But a little after they were reveng'd for falling upon the Bishoprick they kill'd 1500. of their enemies upon the spot and in memory of that advantage built a high Tower with this Inscription Utrect hold thy peace In 1486. the said Town was almost all burnt down and this misfortune seem'd to be a fore-runner of that which befell them about a 100. years after for Frederick Son to the Duke of Alva having taken Zutpheen fell upon Naerden The Citizens not expecting so sudden an alarm were not so provident as to send Embassadors to mediate for them but seeing the Army at their Gates surrender'd their Town into the victors hands and trusted to his discretion and mercy but he participating much of the cruell humor of his Father commanded all the Inhabitants to be assembled in the publick Market-place and there sent them Monks to confess them and pronounce to them their sentence of death The poor creatures who thought to have heard their pardon proclaim'd were immediately set upon by some Regiments and cruelly slaughter'd This barbarous execution brought so great an odium upon the Spaniards that it made the people of Leyden rather resolve to starve than yeeld to the mercy of so cruell a Nation That which is most remarkable too is that they were most of them Catholicks and I think it is from thence that comes that deriding Proverb in Holland Art thou a Catholick that is good for thy soul. Mude is hard by Naerden upon the River Veckt and at the mouth of the South-Sea It is a little Town which has a very ancient Castle in which was kept prisoner the Count Florent Hard by is Wesop upon the same River famous for its good Beer whereof much is brought to Leyden where it is call'd for its excellency the Flemmings Physick All the Countrey from Amsterdam taking by Voerden to Leyden shut in by the Sea of Harlem is very low it is all Meadow or Turf-ground as also between Leyden Goude and Rotterdam there are digg'd great quantities of Turfs nay the Earth is so cut in many places that it is inaccessible otherwise than by Boat which is a Subject of great admiration to Strangers The Boats that go in the night-time from Leyderdorp to Amsterdam pass through the Lake of Brassmermeere and stay about two hours at a Village call'd Bilderdam then in the morning they arrive at another call'd Ouderkerk which is a league from Amsterdam There are Waggons that go by land and it is particularly the Earth of this Countrey that is observ'd to tremble and quake When it has rain'd the wayes are all drown'd and become like a Marsh.
CHAP. XIX Of the Lakes and Rivers OF all the Rivers that come from Germany and Water-Holland the chiefest is the Rhene which divides into two branches one retains the name of Rhene and the other is call'd Vahal and that receives the Meuse which comes from Lorrain and goes through the Town of Leege These Rivers meet all before Gorcum and flow gently into the Sea near Dort and Rotterdam making all the Islands we have spoke of The Countrey lying low there are abundance of Lakes into which enter a great many Channels made by Art The greatest of these Lakes is Harlem-Lake which begins to extend it self between Leyden and the Village of Kague which stand in at Island at the mouth of the said Lake into which the Boats enter here Those Boats that go to Harlem keep on the left hand and they that go to Amsterdam on the right and pass by Alsemeer This Lake is very broad but not deep between Harlem and Amsterdam it grows narrower and is call'd Sprinâ—smeere there is a Dike or Bank with prodigious Sluces which are opened according as the Wind â—its to let out some of the Water into the River Ye Here the Harlem Boats stay and the Passengers land and see a fair House built by the noble Colledge of the Heemrades On Amsterdam-side it grows still narrower till you come to Overtom a fair Village of the Jurisdiction of Harlem which keeps the passage shut by a Dike over which the Boats which go from Leyden to Amsterdam must pass by the means of certain wooden Rowlers and other Instruments This obstacle is to force the great Boats full of Merchandizes to go by Harlem to the profit of the said Town This Lake before the Wars was not half so big and I have heard old men say that from their remembrance it had encreased the compass of above four miles Every year it eats away some of the Land that borders upon it insomuch that the neighbouring Corporations have often met to consult about the drayning of it but as yet without effect It would require above 500. miles and the cost would amount to above 200000. pound but the bottome being partly Veenes and partly good Land would sell well and defray a good part of the expence This Lake is very full of Fish and breeds Eeles of a prodigious bigness as all â—â—imy Waters do But I shall not speak any more of this nor other Lakes nor of the holes which the Countrey people make every day by digging up Turfs which if at last by some rupture they should meet would go near to drown all this lower Region and swallow up these fine Meadows Now let us go to North-Holland CHAP. XX. North-Holland commonly call'd West-Frieze THis part is so call'd because it has Holland on the South and Friezeland on the East from which it is divided by the South-Sea which some Authors affirm to have been formerly so narrow that it might have been pass'd over with a plank This Countrey is likewise call'd Waterland by reason of the many Lakes that it abounds with some of them have been drayn'd viz. Beemster Ziip and Schermer which are now rich grounds where the chief Citizens of Amsterdam have Houses and Gardens Every where here there are Dikes that of Medeâ—bliike is made of a certain matter which the Sea casts up this Element preparing thus a bridle to its own fury This Countrey has on the North the Ocean and the Texel and on the South the River Ye and is joyn'd to the South-part of Holland by a small neck of Land on Harlem-side This people drives a great Trade by means of the Water they are environ'd with which at the same time does so fortifie them as to secure them from all acts of hostility They keep their old fashions and customes and yet they are not so simple as they appear but are indeed very sincere and more to be believ'd upon their simple affirmative than other Nations upon their oaths and blasphemies The Women are equally chaste and fair and often a young man shall sit a whole night by his Mistress and never hold any discourse any wayes offensive to her honour They have most of them red Hair and their locks guilded upon their fore-heads They wear not Handkerchiefs but a velvet Whisk with a golden Hook and Clasp That which I think very undecent is that they wear their Petticoats so short that they scarce come below their knees The men wear plain Bands square Beards have a grave behaviour and are of a strong complexion and tall stature All their business is Commerce which they have with all the Northern Countries and particularly Herrings are their great Commodity Between Harlem and Alcmaer there is a pleasant Village whither anciently people did use to go in pilgrimage It is situated upon the Sea of Wiie the bank that begins there is call'd St. Agaths bank and the other which goes to Sardam is call'd Assendelftdike At Sardam are continually built great Ships for the Indies But let us take our way to Alcmaer CHAP. XXI Of Alcmaer and Medenbliic ALcmaer is not only one of the finest Towns of Holland but also of all the Low-Countries for the beautiousness of its Buildings and the neatness of its Streets The Wars that it maintain'd against the Friezelanders bear witness of its antiquity It is very rich and has a great Trade Many of its Inhabitants live pleasantly having very fine Gardens and a fine Countrey In 1328. it was burnt the Friezelanders have often besieged it and in the year 1517. it was taken and plunder'd for eight dayes by those of Gueldres The Earl Florent the fifth made a Dike to the very extremities of the Countrey to hinder the Friezelanders incursions There are fair marks to shoot at for the exercise and diversion of the Citizens and next to Leyden it has the reputation of being the cleanliest Town in Holland The Spaniards after the taking of Harlem laid siege to it but in wain they were forced to quit the Town partly by reason of the ill Airs and partly because of the stout resist ance made by the Townsmen Thi Town is near the Schermer the greatest Lake of this Septentrionall part At some leagues from Alcmaer upon the North-Sea-side is the Hontbos where there are monstrous Dikes made in a most singular manner to resist the fury of the Ocean which here does most desperately threaten the ruine of all Holland Therefore there is a double bank that so in case one should break the other might give the people time to repair the first From thence you may go to the Texel or take your way to Seay n by the Ziipe Seayen is a great Village situated in a fat Countrey where Land is as dear again as in any part of Holland There has been Trees the Fruits of which have been sold for 10. pound in one year It has a very large Market-place The Lords of Seayen are descended from the House
things according to those Orders I have now or shall have hereafter CHAP. VIII Of the Great Assembly Extraordinary BEsides the Assembly of the States Generall alwayes residing at the Hague there is besides a great Assembly call'd in the language of the Countrey De groote Vergaderinge which is also convocated to meet at the Hague for affairs of extraordinary importance This Assembly never meets till all the Provinces have first given their consent who do not only prescribe the time and place but do also examine before-hand in their States all the points that are to be put in deliberation that so they may be able to give positive and certain Orders to their Deputies and yet are these Deputies often obliged to write back and have recourse to those that sent them The Order of this Assembly is the same with that of the States Generall and they have the same power CHAP. IX Of the Councell of State which is the greatest after the Councell of the States Generall IT appears by what has been said before that there is a Councell of State of more ancient standing than the States Generall But since the establishment of this last the first takes cognizance of smaller affairs as of those things that concern Taxes or the Militia or those that regard the Towns and Fortresses conquer'd and the visit of the fortifications of them This Councill is compos'd of the Deputies of all the Provinces and the Generall of the Army when there is one is perpetuall President of it and has his Vote There are twelve Counsellors from the Provinces two from Gueldres three from Holland two from Zeeland two from Friezeland and Utrect Overissell Groeningue and Omland each one And because the Generall is often absent therefore they choose a President which ordinarily fall to them by turns Hereof every man makes a Vote and they reckon by Pole and then the greatest number carries it They sit as long as it pleases the States that sent them Friezeland having alwaies had a Governour apart he has had the priviledge of appearing and sitting for them and of appointing some body to do it in his absence This Councell being in effect as a help to the States Generall they treat much about affairs of the same nature and often do give an account of what they do to the States Generall who upon their information do Decree and then the Decree runs thus By the Commandment of our Lords the States Generall of the United Provinces upon the relation of the Councell of State of the same Provinces And besides the Secretary the President pro tempore in the Councell signs it This Councell does ordinarily meet apart and of its own accord but sometimes extraordinarily it joyns with the Assembly of the States Generall When that happens if the Generall of the Army is there he takes place among the Deputies of the States Generall and he takes the most honourable place at the upper end of a long Table and as it often happens when the Counsellors of State are dismiss'd he may keep his place and assist at the other Deliberations of the States Now every time that this Councell meets alone there are two Counsellors supernumerary who have only deliberative voices and not definitive Votes that do assist at it The one is the Superintendant of the Treasury and the other is the Treasurer or Receiver Generall himself The first keeps account and controuls all publick expences though he keep not the money the other has in his hands all the publick treasure of which he gives good account He is ordinarily heard after the Intendant whose counsell they commonly ask first CHAP. X. Of the Power of the States of every Province EAch Province has a soveraign power within it self and may exercise all supreme jurisdiction except such as ought to be common to all by vertue of their union For example that can make Laws obligatory to their Subjects choose Magistrates punish Criminals coyn Money set up Universities make the Dividends of generall Taxes and impose such as are necessary for the States of the Province Yet this is not to be so understood as if this Soveraignty of the States did exclude the soveraign jurisdiction which many Towns do exercise within their Precinct for the end of the Stateâ— being to preserve every ones liberties and priviledges it is not to be thought they will take away any that shall be consistent with the Government As for example Dort Nimmegue Deventer de Camp de Zwoll and Grâ—eningue have many priviledges which we shall else-where take notice of Likewise the Countrey of Drent does exercise by its States a royall and absolute Authority and does commit the administration of it to its Deputies Omland likewise has the power of imposing Taxes upon its â—nhabitants though it make up one Province with Groeningue Now here are the particular acts of Soveraignty of which every Province in particular is barr'd and which do only belong to them all united For they cannot 1. Undertake a new War 2. Make Peace or Truce 3. Lay Impositions which concern the common Union 4. Mâ—ke alliance with Neighbours 5. Set the value of Money or make Laws concerning the publick All these things cannot be done but by common consent CHAP. XI Of the States of Holland and Zeeland IN Holland and West-Friezeland the States are compos'd of two sorts of Members viz. of the Nobles and of the Deputies of Towns the Nobles that are famous not only by their antient extraction but also by the Lordships and Castles which they possess are the chiefest they ordinarily meet to the number of twelve or thirteen and have the first voyce The Towns which send their Deputies are these Dort Harlem Leyden Amsterdam Tergou Rotterdam Gorchom Schoonhove la Brille Alâ—maer Enchuse Edam Monichdam and Purmerent If there be any difficulty about Tributes or if it be to declare War or make Peace then these following Towns are likewise assembled by Dâ—puties Woâ—rde Geertrudenbergue Naerde Muden Oâ—de watre Huesdam Wesop and Wourcom The Deputies of Towns are ordinarily Bourgmasters to whom is ordinarily joyn'd an Alderman or Counsellor who is call'd a Pensioner The great Assembly call'd groot mogende that is Great and Mighty is at the Hague and is vulgarly call'd The Assembly of the States of Holland and West-Friezeland Besides this Assembly which is held but from time to time there is another ordinary Assembly which also sits at the Hague and is a Representative of the States of the Province and in their absence takes care of the Treasury and all ordinary affairs and if there be occasion it convocates the Great Assembly one Nobleman and the Deputies of Towns sit in this and is call'd the Counsellors Deputies of the Lords of the States of Holland and West-Friezeland The Advocate Pensioner of Holland is the Moderator of these two Assemblies and it is he that gathers the Votes and performs the Office of Speaker and eight dayes after their separation he
forbid the transport of Arms or Ammunition under pain of death Yet at last when victuals and necessaries for life grew dear among their enemies and that there was an evident advantage for the Confederates to furnish them with those things licence was granted and they drove such a trade with their enemies as made themselves grow rich and powerfull 3. There is likewise a great summe of money rais'd upon the granting of Passports to those in the Spanish Dominions who desire to transport themselves into the Territories of the States for every Passport costs fifty shillings of English money And yet lest this also should prove prejudiciall to the State they seldome grant any to those amongst their enemies who are either in military or politick employments and to any others they scarce grant them for longer than the time of six moneths 4. The Contributions that are levyed upon those Villages and that part of the Countrey which lyes between the enemy and them make another part of their supplyes for these Bourghs pay as much to the States as to the Spaniards and there are Treasurers upon the Frontier for the receit of it 5. The Imposts payed in the conquer'd Towns of Brabant and Flanders make another part of their revenue for there is excise upon Wine and Beer and Salt A Tax upon Houses and upon Lands 6. They receive a part of the plunder made by the Souldiers upon the enemy 7. They have hitherto had from the French and the English great summes of money as long as they have had War with the Spaniards The French to make diversion did maintain in the service of the States a body of 6000. Foot and 2000. Horse at their own charges for many years The serene State of Venice in vertue of a Treaty made in 1622. did promise 4000. pound a moneth in time of War 8. They have money at use that is they keep a bank of such moneys as are lent the State by particulars and pay use for it five in the hundred is the use the State payes All these great summes of money are by the Order of the States committed to the care of a particular Councell call'd A General Directory for the Treasury which is composed of the Deputies of each Province CHAP. XVI Of the principall Forces which do maintain the Commonwealth of the United Provinces THe greatest internall or defensive strength of these Countreys does lye in their situation which makes all their Towns easily to be fortified As for the externall it consists in their Leagues and Alliances with Foreign Princes Let us speak first of the situation That situation which is advantagious for the defence of a Countrey the exercising of commerce and consequently growing rich must needs proceed from the neighbourhood of the Sea and the affluence of great Rivers and Channells thence comes the Proverb The Hollanders are born for the Sea and the Sea for them of which they are well convinc'd and consequently spare no cost nor industry to be the masters upon this Element having long ago graven upon their Coyn this Motto Imperator maris est terrae Dominus If the Spaniards had been so wise as to have spent that treasure in hindring the Hollanders trade and navigation that he layed out upon attaking their Countrey he had undoubtedly ruin'd them and he now perceives it and does endeavour by all means though too late to obstruct their commerce Besides the Sea there are the Rivers of Rhene Meuse and Jud that do make the Countrey almost inaccessible Besides if any enemies be taken on this side these Rivers there is a Law which is exactly observ'd which commands to hang them up immediately The strong Towns are upon the Borders not only in Brabant Flanders Gueldres and Friezeland but also upon the Confines of Germany as Rhinbergue Wesel and divers places bordering upon the Dutchy of Cleves The reason whereof is this the War being kindled between the Spaniards and the United Provinces the Spaniards did first begin to seize and put themselves in possession of the Towns of the Dutchy of Cleves and of the Electour of Cullen that they might the better annoy the Hollanders who fore-seeing the mischief like to arise from thence sent an Army and seized as many of these Towns as they could put Garrisons into them and nevertheless still preserv'd the Inhabitants in all their propriety liberty and priviledges Hereupon arose great contests between the Emperour the Duke of Cleves and the Electour of Cullen on one side and the Hollanders on the other but the Hollanders kept possession Besides the Garrisons they maintain in all Frontier Towns they have also two Magazines in each one with Ammunition for War the other with provisions for life A Governour commands the Garrison they that command in small Frontier Towns are call'd Commanders and they that command in great strong Towns are qualified Governours And for the greater safety of the said Towns the Keys are partly in the Governours partly in the Bourgmasters hands The Civill and Military powers are likewise so distinct that the Governour has nothing to do with the Inhabitants nor the Judges of the place any power over the Souldiers As for the Land-Forces they consist of Strangers and Naturals but the Strangers do exceed the Naturals in number who are more enclin'd to long Voyages and Trade than to Warre Neither is the State endanger'd by putting the force and military power in Stangers hands for they being of different Nations as English Scotch French c. have different inclinations and aversions and so will hardly conspire to oppress their Masters who do alwayes mingle them in their strongest Towns It is believ'd that the number of Souldiers paid by the States and sworn to them does come very near one hundred thousand The Companies are for the most part of a hundred men some few excepted who are either stronger or weaker as necessity requires The Regiments are of ten twelve fourteen sixteen eighteen Companies Each Regiment is commanded by a Collonel The Horse is much inferiour in number to the Foot because that in these Countreys the greatest employment for Souldiers is besieging and defending of Towns in which the Horse are not so necessary as in set Battles There are two sort of Horsemen distinguish'd by their Arms viz. Cuirasseers that wear iron breast and back-pieces and Arquebusiers that carry short Guns on Horseback Their Horses ought to be sixteen handfull high measuring from the hoof of the fore-foot to the top of the shoulder The Infantry has about four shillings and six pence a week pay and the Horse about fifty shillings a moneth They that are payed by the States money are soon and exactly payed but they whose payment is assign'd upon the money that comes from France wait a little longer for it It is very observable in these Provinces that though there be no Money in the Treasury yet the Souldiers receive their pay every week or moneth for every Regiment
no wonder that a Countrey formerly over-run with Wood should now be so empty of it since we know that Germany which is now so full of Towns and Cities was anciently one great Forrest almost The Air is pretty well temper'd in Holland though cold do a little predominate there being continuall winds and frequent rains but the inconstancy of the Climate is such that the seasons seem to be in a perpetuall confusion It rains ordinarily in the Dog-dayes and sometimes in July it is as cold as in December Likewise in Winter it is sometimes so warm and milde weather that one can hardly endure a fire but as the heat is never violent so the cold is seldome lasting according to the Proverb that sayes that rigorous Masters do not govern long yet is there no such generall Rule but admits of an exception for there has been long and hot Summers and violent cold lasting Winters the Annals speak of some as of the year 1149. When the Channels are frozen they slide upon them with a certain sort of Shooes call'd Skates which have a long shining narrow crooked Iron that stands out before They that are perfect in this exercise turn their Feet inwards that the Iron may take the more hold of the Ice upon which they fly like Birds in the air with that swiftness that one can hardly follow them with the eye The Women too use this as a diversion and many do very pretty tricks upon the Ice but most are content with a straight course as much as needs to get heat and ground Every Sunday after Sermon all the people of the Towns come out upon the Ice some to slide and others to look on I knew a young Clown of ten year old who did brag that he had gone eighteen miles or six leagues in an hour upon his Skates The same laid a Wager with a Peasant his neighbour that he would sooner slide three leagues than the other should ride one and a half with the best Horse he should get It is ordinary for these sort of people to go from Leyden to Amsterdam in an hour and a quarter if the Ice be even and yet that is near eighteen miles There are besides things call'd Traisneaur like our Sledges that are of two sorts some that are drawn by Horses and others that a man drives before him as he slides upon the Ice There are also Boats that having a great Iron under them sail along and go sometimes fifteen leagues an hour but that is seldome practis'd because there is danger in it and because that often the Ice is not even When it has snowed and frozen together they use great Sledges to go across the Meadows and not follow the ordinary way Some wonder to see the Countrey people carry great Poles upon their Shoulders but the reason of it is that if the Ice should break they might by the favour of their Poles both ends of which would lye upon the two extremities of the crack'd Ice get out again The temerity of the Hollanders deserves to be blam'd for many will venture upon one nights Ice and thence happen many sad accidents Holland is so flat and even a Countrey that you see not a Mountain nor a Hill except those Sand-hills that keep out the Sea It is almost all Meadows cut into a thousand Channels which in Summer by their delicate green and their variety of Flowers are a pleasant object to look on 'T is true that in some places the Earth produces Corn Beans Pease and all sorts of grains the Mountains of Sand are full of Rabbits the Waters of excellent Fishes and the Air supplyes them with Fowl from the Northern parts viz. with Woodcocks Snipes Hernes c. insomuch that Holland may be call'd very justly the Marrow of the Low Countreys as well for its fertility as for the delights and pleasures that may be enjoyed in it It seems a terrestriall Paradise for its Meadows and pleasant Fields the Channels and Rivers so ingeniously contriv'd for Trade and the noble magnificence of its Buildings We must needs confess that there are very few plow'd grounds considering the vast numbers of people that must be fed and yet there are no where greater Store-houses nor better furnish'd than here nay Holland may with reason be call'd the Store-house of Europe considering the vast transportation of all sorts of grains that are made from hence into Italy Spain England France and Brabant when their own Corn has fail'd them by any accident of War or Famine That great Man Scaliger speaking of the Wonders of this Province sayes that here grows no Vines and yet here is more Wine than in any one place in Europe In effect the Wines of the Rhene the Mosella and the Mouse come to Dort and from thence into all the other places of these Countreys The Wines of France Spain and Greece come to Amsterdam and Rotterdam There grows very little Wood and yet there are no where to be found more Carpenters and Joyners than here And it may be there is not in the rest of Chrystendome so many Ships and Boats as in this one Province there is scarce a Peasant but has his Boat to bring his Commodities to the Towns To be short sayes he we live amongst the waters and yet we drink not of them There are no Flocks of Sheep and very little Flax and yet where is made more Cloth and Linnen than here I adde that there are no Mines in Holland and yet all sorts of Mettals are more abundant here than in any part of the world as it appears by the rich Furnitures and Ornaments of the Houses of our Citizens whose Wives delight in that more than in any thing else Strangers cannot easily conceive these wonders or at least they alone amongst them that understand the secret of Trade and what vast advantages the Hollanders have reap'd from that War which they so long and so generously maintain'd against Spain and which at last ending in an honourable peace has left them Masters of the Trade of the world fetching by their Ships from the remotest parts of it all that 's good and precious and to be had for money CHAP. IV. Of the Manners and Dispositions of the Inhabitants THe old Hollanders were formerly despised by their Neighbours for the grossness of their temper and the simplicity of their life They were us'd to be call'd Block-heads and eaters of Cheese and Milk but as they formerly had the reputation of silly so now they are esteemed as subtil and understanding a Nation as any is in Europe as may be well evidenced from their Treaties and Alliances made with Strangers This I think proceeds from that Commerce they drive through all the world and from the mixture made amongst them by divers Strangers that have setled in these parts for above half those that do inhabit the Towns are either Strangers or descended from them They all love their Liberties even those that
of gold and silver and carv'd work good Hangings excellent Pictures rare Cabinets fill'd with China c. I have observ'd one thing of the Hollanders by living long amongst them which is that they do not easily give credit to such as tell strange Stories and wonderfull accidents hapned a great way off and when by their silence and postures they seem to admire it 't is then that they believe least of all what you say but they do not take pleasure in contradicting They are not given to swearing nor robbing but are tender-hearted and inclin'd to pity and will not willingly see any body wrong'd in their presence They are a little too indulgent to their Children and are punished for it for many of them rebell against their Parents and at last go away to the Indies the ordinary vent of these Provinces When any body tells them of their fondness to their Children they presently say Does any body spoil their own Face or cut off their own Nose They are very laborious and industrious and in the name of liberty and profit undertake any thing They love familiarity and are much taken with people that being of great quality do not refuse to eat and drink with them Prince William the first Prince of Orange won their hearts with that popular way and did the King of Spain more mischief by it than if he had been at the head of an Army against him They despise and undervalue proud people and to please them you must conform to their humour They are very free and open apparently but are indeed alwayes upon their guard They hate cheats and are seldome deceiv'd twice Those amongst them that are descended from Strangers do retain something of their first origine and are a good while before they become right Hollanders We have spoke already of their Diet but this is only to be added that Trade having brought riches sumptuosity has followed so that the Hague may be call'd a compendium of the most glorious Courts in Chrystendome and Amsterdam the magazine of all that 's precious in Europe CHAP. V. Of the Trade of the Hollanders and the wayes of getting a Livelyhood IT is an ordinary saying in Holland that He that will work can never want and it is a very true one for there are so many Trades kept going by their great commerce that no body can want work All Arts are here exercised and experience shews that Manufactures are better made here than in the other Provinces All turns to account here and even they that make clean the Kennals with an Iron and Nets at the end of it to bring up the ordure may earn half a Crown a day if they will work hard Children as so on as they are bound Apprentice get their own bread Amongst the Countrey people some make Butter and Cheese others cut up Turfs every Market-day they bring their Milk and Butter and Whey to Town which the Tradesmen and Journeymen live most upon Among the Citizens some put out their Money and live upon the interest others trade with it and are call'd Merchants Their chief Commodities are Butter and Cheese and Cloth and many other Manufactures as we shall see in the Description of Leyden The situation of this noble Province is such as if Nature intended it for the generall Mart of Europe for it has the neighbourhood of the Sea and is it self full of navigable Lakes Rivers Channels all which are night and day loaded with Boats and Passengers Many Channels have been made since the publication of the peace with Spain as that from Leyden to Harlem and from Amsterdam to Goude which is call'd Trech-Schâ—iteâ— because there the Boats are drawn by Horses that so they may come in at set-times The said Channels are made with the greatest ease that can be for as soon as you have digg'd three or four foot you meet with the water The Herring-Fishing is properly the golden Mines of this Countrey by the great revenue it brings yearly to it It is a hard matter to say how many thousands of men are kept by it for besides those that go to Sea who are a great number there are employed as many more in making of Boats and Barrels to pickle them up in Every Summer in June there sets out a Fleet of Fishermen from the Meuse they call them Busses They cast their Nets near the English Coast upon Midsummer-Eve according to the ancient custome they pickle them up in Barrels and serve all the rest of the world with them the last Fishing is most valued and the Herrings of that Fishing are all carried abroad Ten dayes after Midsummer they may sell them publickly but not before then many go up and down crying Fresh Herring which are esteem'd as a dainty by every body The name of the man that first invented the way of pickleing them deserves to be known it was William Bueckeld and he died at Bieverliet in the year 1347. Charles the fifth Emperor went one day to see his Tomb in acknowledgment of the service he had done his Countrey The Merchants do every day encrease their Trade by making Societies and Companies and setting out men of War at their own charges to protect their Ships home They never want Seamen for the Hollanders do delight in going to Sea nay I have heard many of them say that they could never enjoy their health but at Sea There are many of these Companies as that of Moscovy for Furrs Skins and Rye that of Island and Groenland for the fishing of Whales but the chiefest of all and who with Force and Arms drive a prodigious Trade are the East and West-India Companies who have a Patent from the States The West-India Company had made great profit by the taking of the Baia de â—odos lâ—s sanctos and of the Silver Fleet which Jason Peter Hain brought into Holland in the year 1629. which also was the cause of the taking of Bosleduke from the Spaniards The taking of Fernambuco did likewise give hopes of conquering the rest of Brasil but after the depart of the noble Count Morice of Nassaw the Negroes and Portugueses joyning together revolted and reduced the Company to great extremities since it has suffer'd another defeat which has almost made an end of ruining it It has often been proposed to unite it with the East-India Company but all in vain for the one is too high and rich and the other too poor The East-India Company has its principall Seat at Amsterdam 'T is this Company that has Kings and Kingdomes tributary to it and depending upon it 'T is this Company that makes the Hollanders name famous in the remotest parts of the Earth and triumphs over the riches of the Orient bringing home Pearls Diamonds Gold all sorts of Aromatick Druggs c. Besides Batavia the principall Town the Company has a great number of strong Forts well in order to protect their Merchants terrifie Strangers and keep the Indians in
whereupon the Princess desir'd leave to be gone for Italy Before her departure she took her leave by Letters of most of the Cities and the Nobility shewed their respects in waiting upon her to the borders of Germany where she left them to their great sorrow for the loss of so wise and moderate a Princess CHAP. VIII Containing the Government of the Duke of Alva THe Duke D'alva having pass'd by Savoy and Lorrain with an Army of 10000. Spaniards and Italians all old Souldiers he was sent by the King to punish and chastize all those that had any hand in pulling down Churches and Monasteries or that had any way favour'd the former Confederations This he executed by a Court of twelve who were to judge soveraignly and without appeal of all Delinquents This was call'd the Councell of blood and so frighted the people that thousands of them fled with their Families into neighbouring Countreys to the great detriment of those Provinces as the Princess Margaret had well fore-seen The Prince of Orange and they that were with him had wisely avoided this storm which they fore-saw but Henry of Erederode the Earls of Hooghstract Culemburg and Bergue were cited before this Councell but they ran into Germany and implor'd the succour of the Princes there In the mean time the Duke of Culemburghs house was razed to the ground and Philip his Son taken from Louvain and sent into Spain to be bred By this time the Princes had got an Army and Hooghstract fell upon Artois and was there defeated by Davila Lewis of Nassaw with his brother Adolfe invaded Friezeland and routed the Earl of Aremberg who oppos'd them the Earl and Adolfe were both kill'd D'alva hearing this resolv'd to meet â—hem in person but before he undertook his journey he made nineteen Gentlemen be publickly executed and a little after caused the Earls of Horne and Egmont to be beheaded no prayers nor entreaties made in favour of so great a Warriour being able to prevail with his fierce temper He valued as little the threats of vengeance that were made after their deaths but in pursuance of his design went and fought the Army of Lewis which he utterly ruin'd and immediately turn'd head to the Prince of Orange who was got into Brabant with another considerable Army him he overcame by policy for he refus'd to fight knowing that the Princes Army for want of pay would soon disband which accordingly fell out After this he demanded the tenth penny through the whole Low-Countreys and that was the apple of division which separated and divided the Low-Countreys and made two states of them one part remaining under the Spanish domination and the other making up that powerfull body of the United Provinces now acknowledg'd by Philip the fourth to be Soveraigns All the people were very much shaken in their affection to Spain by the former causes but this last did as it were precipitate them into war and discord which have at last by the exactness of their discipline produced that incomparable fruit of peace and tranquillity This tenth penny was a new tribute upon all merchandises besides there was a twentieth upon immoveables and a hundredth part upon all for once But the people concern'd in this demand chose rather to put hands to their swords than to their purses and yet by a strange but necessary effect of their resolution they have been forc'd to lay much heavier burdens upon themselves to enable themselves to maintain the War but the desire of liberty made them endure joyfully that which they were so much afraid of from anothers hand In the mean time the Councell still proceeded to execution upon the guilty and those that refus'd to pay this new imposition and though the States did represent what damage would befall the Countrey by the removall of Mark-lands yet he being jealous of his Authority made them go on But there happened an accident which much vexed the Duke which was that Queen Elizabeth of England stop'd in her harbours divers Ships loaden with money destin'd to pay his Army and caus'd it to be transported into the Tower of London where iâ— remain'd never to be repayed This disappointment cool'd the Dukes heat a little and made him publish a solemn pardon for the following year but in vain for by this time he was become so odious that all the people forsook and turn'd to the Prince of Orange as it appear'd not long after About All-Saints day there hapned an unlucky presage of the following calamities and which was indeed a great one it self for the Sea having broken the dikes and sluces over-flowed almost all Friezeland with a great part of Holland and Zeland they say that above 20000. persons perished in Friezeland alone This great misfortune made them represent to the Duke the impossibility of paying the Taxe he requir'd who little satisfied with their Remonstrances was upon the point of dealing severely with some Citizens of Bruxels when the news came that the Gueux d'eau or water Gueux or Beggars had surprized the Bril upon Palm-Sunday The chief of this Faction was the Earl of Lumee who being cast there with his Fleet by a storm found occasion of surprizing the place and there discharg'd upon the Church-men the hatred he owed the Spaniards The Count de Bossu hastening to its relief was beaten off and then seeking to secure Dort he was refus'd entrance Upon this news all the Towns of Holland cast off the yoke and joyn'd with the Prince of Orange except Amsterdam and Schorhof Flushing in Zeland followed the example of the rest being animated to it by a Priest The Province of Overissel chang'd likewise but nothing so much troubled the Duke as the taking of Mons in Hainaut by the French under the conduct of Lewis of Nassaw For fearing lest Charles of France should take this occasion of invading the Low-Countreys he immediately turn'd all his Forces that way which gave time to the Hollanders to frame their small Commonwealth and give it some foundation He besieged Mons by his Son at first and at last came himself and took it in spight of Lewis and his Army who endeavouring to succour the place were beaten and forc'd to a retreat Mons being recover'd many other Towns yeelded and Malines for having receiv'd a Garrison from the Prince was sacked The Dukes Son Frederick following his Fathers foot-steps recover'd Overissel and Friezeland from thence passed into Holland and by the bloody action he committed at Naerden he fastened an indeleble hatred upon his Nation Harlem also was taken but Alcmaer stood out and much fortified the Confederates The year 1573. was famous by the Duke of Alvaes leaving the Low-Countreys He was recall'd by Philip who thought his absence might bring a calm in this troubled Sea but the agitation was too great to be so soon layed He was a cruell proud man a very good Souldier but inexorable in his chastizings if he had made a mixture
THE SECOND BOOK Containing the State and Government OF THE United Provinces OF THE LOW-COUNTRIES CHAP. I. The League and Union of the Provinces IT was in the Year 1579. that some of the 17. Provinces formerly under the Dominion of Philip King of Spain began to be call'd the United Provinces because of the League and Union which they made to defend themselves against the Spaniard their common Enemy and though these Provinces be now in the number of seven yet at first they were not so many but those that are mentioned in the Annals are these following Gueldre Zutphen Holland Zeeland the Diocess of Utrect Friezland or that Country which is call'd Omland situated between the Rivers Ems and Larica the Country about Nimmiegue and Arnhem the greatest part of the grietmans of Friezland Antwerp Ypres and Breda The Provinces call'd Overyssel and Groningue followed their example and were admitted into the Union in the Year 1594. Here follow the Articles of this Union 1. That all the aforesaid Provinces shall be as straightly and intimately united as if they did all make up one entire Province and Politick body and that they shall never be capable of being dis-united by any will codicil gift cession sale contract agreement or mariage of any Prince nor by any other means whatsoever 2. That every one of these Provinces shall inviolably keep and enjoy all their Immunities Customs Priviledges and Statutes of their Ancestors that they shall help one another against all Enemies whatsoever that if it should happen that any contentions should arise between the said Provinces that the de-bate should be judged either by the ordinary Judges or by Umpires friendly chosen and in the mean time they shall forbear troubling and offending one another till sentence be pronounced 3. The said Provinces shall be bound to defend and protect each other mutually and freely against all Princes and Lords either of their own Country or Foreigners who shall offer to invade them or commit any act of hostility whatsoever and for this effect they shall raise such Forces and such Money and Contribution as shall be thought fit and judged necessary by the greatest and major part of the Confederates 4. To the end that the said Provinces be alwayes in a readiness and provided against all designs of their Enemies the Frontier Towns shall be Fortified and provided with Men and Ammunition at the Publick charge by the consent of all the Provinces and that those whose Towns are already Fortified shall nevertheless contribute as the rest and if there be found necessity of building any new Forts demolishing or changeing the old ones that it be done at a common charge 5. And to the end that the necessary means whereby to answer all these designs fail not there shall be leavied and raised every where alike and by the same form and way Taxes and Imposts upon all sorts of Wine Beer Wheat Corn Salt Cloths Silks Cattle till'd and pasture Grounds the weight of Merchandizes weighed in publick weights c. That those Regal Rights belonging heretofore to the King of Spain shall still remain and be converted to the use aforesaid that all the Money raised by these or any other wayes shall not be destin'd nor imployed for any other use than for the defence of the said Provinces and the said Imposts shall be lessened or encreased according to publick emergencies 6. That the Frontier Towns shall be bound to receive or dismiss all Garrisons by the command of the States as likewise to pay them their pay out of the publick Money and to the end the safety of the said Towns be the better preserv'd it is agreed that the Officers of the Garrisons shall be sworn not only to the States General but also to the Magistrates of the particular Towns they shall be in that care be taken to make a Military Law to the end the Souldiers be not trouble some to the Inhabitants that the Souldiers themselves in Garrison be not freed from paying the Imposts and there be a sum set apart by the States to pay the Citizens for the lodging and quartering of Souldiers 7. That a moneth after the publication of this Union there be a general review made of all those that have attain'd the age of 18. years and are under 60. and that their Names be registred and declared to the States General to be imployed as they shall think fit 8. That there be made neither Peace War nor Truce nor new Imposition without the consent of all the Provinces not one resisting or standing out and as for the other things that concern the administration and execution of the said alliance that they be undertaken and perform'd by those that shall be appointed by the greatest part of the Confederates yet that all be call'd if there be either Peace or War or some other important business to be decided if the States cannot agree then the business be put to the Arbitration of the Governors of the particular Provinces and that all may follow their decision 9. That none of the said particular Provinces shall make League or Union with any Neighbouring Power or strange and remote Prince or People by their own private Authority and without the consent of the rest and likewise that if any Princes desire to come into the aforesaid alliance that they shall be received by common consent 10. That all approve of or reject the same coyn stamp and money and that as soon as can be there come forth a rule or settlement for coyning which all shall follow 11. As for the publick exercise of Religion whether or no any other ought to be receiv'd besides the Protestant let every Province dispose and ordain about it as they please provided still that they be all bound to let every man have the liberty of his Conscience without persecution for that subject 12. If there should happen any contests between any of the Provinces that then those of them that shall not be concern'd shall have power to determine about the debate of the others but if in these divisions all were concern'd then let the Governors of all the Provinces meet and decide the matter in a moneths time after which there shall be no appeal exception revision or nullity to be pleaded 13. That the said Provinces and Members of this Union do take a special care not to give any occasion to Foreign Princes to make War against them and therefore that they carry themselves towards Strangers with the same equity justice and moderation as towards the Naturals and if any of the Members do infringe and break this Article it is the duty and power of the others to constrain them to observe it by all means whatsoever 14. The States and Governors of each Province shall not lay a heavier Imposition upon those of their Subjects that shall travel to and fro than upon those that are found Inhabitants 15. That the Government and publick administration be well setled as
a design of subverting our State by vilifying the Governors thereof we shall hold as enemies and punish accordingly Therefore be it known to all that we that do here declare that the Soveraign power is in the States do not mean that it is in the Deputies but in those that sent them whom they represent by vertue of their Commission This is a truth which many Princes and particularly her most Serene Majesty the Queen of England as also his Excellency the Prince of Orange when he was sworn Governour did both acknowledge Neither do we think that any body can dispute so constant a verity for else it would follow that the States have not now they are free so much power as they had before and not only the contracts made with the English and the creation of the Governor Generall would be invalid but all that the States have so nobly perform'd since these fifteen years would be unjust which no body but our greatest enemies will or dare say From what has been said it appears how great a necessity there is of keeping inviolable the Authority of the said States as the foundation of all the safety of our Commonwealth and of letting every body know that the Soveraign power is no less in them now than it was under their former Princes Decreed at the Hague and order'd to be publish'd by the common consent of the States Made at Harâ—â—mâ— the sixteenth of October in the year 1587. THE THIRD BOOK Containing the DELIGHTS OF HOLLAND CHAP. I. Of the Original of Holland SOme Writers say that the word Holland is deriv'd from the Gâ—rman word Holtlandt which is as much as to say a Countrey of Wood and they found this their conjecture upon the names of many Villages which have been nam'd from their Woods Our Annals likewise do say that formerly this Province was full of Forrests and the Sea-side all border'd with Trees There was not above a hundred years ago a large Forrest in the Island of Texel which does as it were make up the tail of the Lion which the seventeen Provinces put together do represent And to this day there are bodies and stumps of Trees which do often hurt Ships and entangle their Cables about their roots which in a storm is often the cause of the loss of divers Ships for that reason the Fishermen never cast their Nets there for fear of tearing them Some others say and that probably enough that the word Holland does denote the property of the Earth which in most places seems hollow and quakes as if it swam upon the top of the Water To this purpose Guicciardin tells a Story of a Cow That passing in a Meadow half a mile from Harlem fell into a Ditch and was drown'd and â—â—reâ— dayes after was found in a Lake hard by the Town on the East-side of it which had no communication with the Ditch The third opinion and that which is most likely to be true is that these Provinces having been conquer'd by the Normans they gave them the name of the Provinces they came out of And in effect not only whole Provinces but many Towns and Villages have the same names here and in Denemark as Zeeland Oland besides the Kingdome of Norway the Towns as Schagen Bergen Valkenburg and many others which it is needless to set down In all antiquity it is observable that when ever a Nation did enlarge by Conquests or Colonies the same custome was put in use So the French having entred Gallia drive out the Romans and call'd the Countrey France The Spaniards do the same in the West-Indies And to go no further the Dutch themselves have given the name of Batavia to that great Town in the Indies which they have made the seat of their Trade and Empire in those parts These Northern Nations not content with their having deluge-like over-run these Countreys pass'd into Neustria and call'd it Normandy and to this day the people of that Province have an accent much resembling that of the Danes in their tongue which is not a small conjecture that they are come originally out of the North. Our Authors do not agree about the time that these Nations did invade Holland and whether they were again driven out by the French or no. CHAP. II. Of the length and breadth of Holland the number of its Towns and Villages UNder the name of the Low Countreys are comprehended the seventeen Provinces and before these troubles Flanders was esteem'd the best of them but now Holland may more justly claim that title as being the richest Countrey in the world for its bigness Holland is encompassed almost on three sides by the Ocean viz. on the West the East and the North it has Brabant the River Meuse and Utrect to the South It may be said of this Province as an Ancient said of France that there is no desert solitude nor empty place in it for there has been such an affluence and concourse of people by reason of the Wars that it is almost too little to hold them The Circuit of Holland is only a hundred and fourscore miles and in this compass are comprehended great Lakes and a part of the South Sea Its length is taken from the Island Schelling in the North to the River Scheld and Zeeland in the South The breadth is not above twenty four miles if we take it in a straight line in the middle from Catwyck by the Sea-side to Woerden a small Town upon the Frontiers of Utrect The chief and principall Towns are six in number Dort Harlem Delft Leyden Amsterdam Goude The others that are less Towns but who do send their Deputies to the States Generall are these Rotterdam Gorcum Schiedam Schoonhove Briel Alcmaer Horn Enchuyse Edam Monnicken-dam Medenblick and Purmerend The other Towns are not admitted to the same priviledges either because they are built upon the conquer'd Countrey of Brabant as Gertrudenbergh Heusden Workum or because they have particular Lords that will not have them belong to the States as Vianen is owned by the Brederodes and Yselsteyn is claim'd by the States of Utrect or else because they are poor and cannot bear the charges of Deputies as Woerde Audewater Heukelom Asperen Leerdam Naerden Wâ—sop and Muyden of which mention shall be made hereafter The principall Burroughs which have the priviledges of Towns though they be not wall'd are the Hague Vlaerding Gravâ—sant Delfs-haven Beverwyck Schagen Nieuport There are in Holland above two hundred Villages which if you consider for their building trade and riches they may take place of many Towns in other Countreys but the fairest of them are Nortwic Reensburg Worbury Maeslant-sâ—â—ys Egmond Ryswyck Geervliet c. Vlaerding Reâ—nsburg and Bevâ—â—wyck were in former ages reckon'd amongst the strongest and fairest Towns of this Province as also Geervliet But Holland is much chang'd since its troubles and many Towns are risen by trade and their situation which before were very inconsiderable I have heard old Women
have made but a few years stay in the Province as if the genius of it had a secret power over mens inclinations It is not lawfull to beat nor strike any body Servants have as great priviledges as their Masters who dare not abuse them with blows And if any body chance to be so far transported by their passion as to 〈…〉 t their Man or Maid-servant and 〈◊〉 come to the hearing of the Magistrate they are fined for it and often forc'd to pay them their whole year of wages though not due and so turn them away There are no Slaves in Holland but any man in that condition is free as soon as he sets his foot on that ground The Hollanders are very constant in their resolutions and seldome desist till they have obtain'd their end They are not so much upon the punctilio of honor as the other Nations but are rather given to Trade and getting and they seem as if they had suck'd in with their milk the insatiable desire of acquiring They never complain of the pains they take and go as merrily to the Indies as if they went to their Countrey Houses They are of a strong Constitution tall proper men and very capable of whatsoever they undertake Those amongst them that prefer the study of Liberal Arts to the desire of growing rich do succeed as prosperously for without doubt or flattery Holland has produced as many learn'd and ingenious persons as any Province in Europe Others follow the Art of Painting and transport themselves into Italy where are the best Masters of the world and by these means good Pictures are very common here there being scarce an ordinary Tradesman whose House is not adorn'd with them If there be any body that has any new invention or discovery he shall be sure to find money for it here if it will yeeld any Above all things the Hollander hate all Quarrels and Duels as likewise they abhor all treacherous actions blasphemy swearing c. They are no wayes bloody-minded but much more enclin'd to compassion than their Neighbours I pass to their way of living And first of their Winter-Provision In the beginning of Autumn when the Turfs are dry they lay in their provision of them Towards November they buy an Oxe or half a one according as their Family is that they salt and smoke for Summer eating it with Butter or Sallet Every Sunday they take out a great piece out of their salting-Tub upon which they dine this piece comes every day after upon the Table all the week long with some other Dish of boyl'd Meat or Milk They do not love Pottage so much as the French neither do they much esteem Leek or Garlick or Onion They are not nice in their Diet and none amongst them but the very rich do eat after the French fashion They have that common custome of all Northern Nations which is that they delight much in drinking and feasting with their friends if any chance to be quarrelsome in his drink he is presently driven out of the Company Here we must not omit a certain custome which has for drift peace amity and concord All the Towns are divided into divers Quarters called Neighbourhoods every one of these has a Master and he has his Counsellors if there happen any quarrell the parties appear before him who endeavours to agree them if he cannot then they may go twice a week before the Commissioners for hearing of quarrels and keeping peace amongst Neighbours if they cannot bring them to take or give satisfaction then they may go to Law The Treasurer of each Neighbourhood receives the Fines which are these following If any one has not waited upon a dead body of the Neighbourhood going to be buried he is fin'd three half-pence The Heirs or Kindred of the dead person are bound to make a Present according to their quality though there be no set Tax For a Childe they give not so much as for a person of age The gift that is made for a married person is call'd in the language of the Countrey a fat Dish When a Citizen purchases a House he is bound to a Present proportionable to the value of his House When there is a pretty round summe of money got together by six or seven years gathering the Master and his Counsellors meet at the desire of the Neighbours and appoint a day for a Treat which lasts ordinarily three or four 'T is most commonly in Autumn and there every one comes with his Wife but without either Children or Dogs under pain of being fined Before they sit down the Laws of the Feast are publickly read amongst which the chiefest are that you must not blaspheme nor start any discourse about Religion for fear of falling out Then the Master sits down with his Wife and the Counsellors next to him of each side the others draw lots for their places If any one press another to drink more than he is able he payes a Fine if he strike he is banish'd the company and not admitted the next day without asking pardon At eight of the Clock every one goes out and waits upon the Master to his Lodging where they begin to drink afresh till wine and sleep part them and bring them to their own homes All the time is pass'd merrily and without Ceremony as if they were all equall The four dayes being ended they summe up what they have spent and if the publick purse cannot pay the charges they supply it by an equall contribution I have recited this custome at large that from it may be deduced some knowledge of their humour They are very patient and not so hasty as other Nations and have a Proverb amongst them which sayes that Rich people do not use to fight They haâ—e going to Law and as for affronts and injurious words they are made amends for by the recantation and confession of him that is in the wrong then they shake hands and are made friends The married Women and Maids are very fair and chaste They have a great care of their House and keep all their Cupboards Cabinets even the Floors extream neat some of them are so curious as not to let you come into their rubb'd Rooms without putting on a pair of Slippers or making your own Shooes very clean The Women do enjoy as much liberty as their Husbands and it is an unpardonable fault to beat them I have often heard them say that if a Husband does beat his Wife he is bound to give his Neighbours a Gammon of Bacon and if she beat him she is bound to give two Every day they rub and wash the lower Floors and straw them with fine Sand and make them so neat that Strangers often make a scruple of spitting in them If the Citizens Wives are thus neat the Countrey people are no wayes inferior to them in that point for they keep all even to their Stables very clean The Houshold-stuff of the better sort is very rich
of one Peter Adrian de Verf cried out aloud that they must either surrender or perish with hunger but he answer'd them with an immortall constancy Friends kill me if you will and divide me between you for it is the same thing to me to die by your hands or by the hands of my enemies They made Paper-money with this Inscription Hâ—c libertatis ergo pugno pro patria c. which is to say We endure all these miseries for our liberty and our Countrey I will adde that as Leyden has been the second Town that sustain'd valiantly the Spaniards attacks so the Sas of Gand was the last place but one which fell into the States hands and that by the fault of the Governor who was not able to make use of his Sluces against those who by water had driven the Spaniards from their Walls A year after this painfull siege was establish'd the famous University of Leyden to recompence the Inhabitants for their constant sufferings But many other reasons might invite the States to choose this Town before any other for it is neat finely built delicate Walks and a pleasant Countrey about the Town the Sea near it The University was inaugurated the eighth of February in the year 1574. and every year upon the same day is declar'd Rector he whom his Highness the Prince of Orange is pleas'd to choose out of three that are nam'd to him Here has alwayes been very famous professors in all faculties but particularly the Civil Law and Physick have alwayes flourished by the particular care of his Highness the Prince of Orange The great Scaliger and the incomparable Salmazius have been as the two great Lights among the other Stars of this learn'd Firmament There are besides Lectures of Divinity Mathematicks in all which the professors do excell as being chosen with care and well recompenc'd for their labours When any one dies the three Curators provide another of the same faculty so the University is alwayes supplied Those Students that are written in the University-Book do enjoy great priviledges They that are above twenty year old may have fourscore quarts of Wine in a year which pay no excise and half a barrell of Beer every moneth free likewise They give a groat to the Servants of the University every quarter The Rector or Chancellor has his Counsellors before whom are brought all quarrels and they endeavour to make the parties agree if they will not then they may go to a triall before the University Counsell where the Rector presides and decides without appeal in civil matters If any of the Students have committed a crime that deserves death or otherwise the Officers of justice cannot take him before they have the Rectors consent and then too they may not carry him to a loathsome prison but into the Town-House Hall Duels are severely prohibited ever since a Danish Student was kill'd in one Besides they are forbid to commit any riot in the night time or break the Citizens Windows under pain of a considerable Fine and often of being bannish'd There is a Watch goes on purpose to hinder such disorders which takes away Scholars Swords if they be insolent and carries them to prison where next day they are produc'd before the University Counsell There are also as good Masters for all Exercises as Riding Dancing c. as any where and the Italian French and Spanish Tongues are taught excellently well Here are Students of all Nations of Europe most of them Gentlemen of good Families and often Princes and great Lords Sons have been seen to come hither for their education They all have a dependance upon the Rector and to this day never any Member of the University was put to death except a servant to a Prince who confess'd himself to be the author of a murder that had been committed The University has Schools for the different Lectures and on the North-side of the great Court is the famous Printing Press of John Elzevier so well known for his fair Characters It is placed upon the Rapembourg the fairest Street of all the Town for in the middle of it runs a large Channell and of each side is a rowe of tall Trees from one end to the other The Pavy has a little fall towards the Channell so that it can never be dirty let there fall never so much rain There are five fair Bridges over this Channell and abundance of delicate Houses on each side 'T is not only this Street that is thus shaded but all the Town so that he was in the right that desir'd to know whether Leyden was in a Wood or a Wood in Leyden We should never have done if I would particularize all the singularities of Leyden the great and most frequented Street begins at the Gate of the Hague and ends at Utrect Gate it is the broadest and highest Street of the Town The most considerable next is Harlem Street which has a Channell call'd the old Rhene into which all the other Channels do faâ—l and which ends it self at Catvic It is adorn'd with four stone Bridges one of which is the largest and fairest of all the Town it is call'd the Corn-Bridge because that on every Market-day the Countrey people take up their stations upon it with their Corn. There is another likewise call'd the Fish-Bridge because the Fishermen do there expose their Sea-Fish to sale The best Fish comes from Catvic that of Maeslantsluys is not valued as being ordinarily stale If this City had but running Water a great Market-place and some fountains of clear Water for drink it would be the pleasantest in all Europe but nothing can be ex omni parte beatum accomplish'd in all points There has been lately built a Church in a circular figure admir'd by all Strangers for its incomparable Architecture both within and without The first Sermon was preach'd in it some weeks before Easter in the year 1650. The Town is so populous by reason that poor people of the neighbouring Countries do seek a refuge here in time of War that it is a hard matter to get a Chamber in the new Town Here is the great manufacture of that excellent Cloths which are transported all the world over they cannot make any such any where else The fine Wool comes from Spain and the course from England and Pomâ—rania All sorts of Nations work in the manufacture where many other Stuffs are made In Summer during the hot weather these Channels do send forth a noysome smell particularly when the weather inclines to rain the reason of it is the drying up of the Lake of Soetermeer which did use to cleanse the Town by flowing into it To prevent this the Magistrates have caus'd two large Channels to be made and two Mills to be set upon them to drive the Water into the Town at one end and two other that drive or carry it out at the other end so that by this invention the City is free'd from that
It is a very pleasant place as well as Catvic where live many rich men that live of their revenues The Rhene did anciently enter the Sea here and there was a square Castle built at the mouth of the River but it is now buried under water We find it written that there were the Romans Magazines and Store-houses against the English Of late when the Sea has been very 〈◊〉 â—y a constant South-wind the 〈…〉 ndations have been seen In Summer the Scholars and Citizens go to wash there and eat fresh Fish as also to breathe the salt Air of the Sea which is held very wholesome They that hire Horses may go all along the shore by the two Catvicks and Walckembourg and return by Nortvic Rinsbourg and Oestgeest Wassenaer is situated just by the sandy Downs it did formerly belong to the Prince de Lime but now it belongs to the honourable Family of the Wassenaers Warmout is a league and half from the Town on Harlem-side By the way are two or three very fine Farms and particularly one near the Channell when you have pass'd the Bridge you leave upon your right hand Lochorst and then you come into the most delicious Village in the world the Lord of it is Mr. James Wassenaer whose Father was Admiral and has eminently serv'd the publick in military and civil employments The Arminians have a Church here the Church is on the out-side of the Village as also the Lords House which is a fair Castle with a Moat round about it Oestgeest is a Village in the Sands which belongs to the Corporation of the City of Leyden I my self have seen the Sand taken away three foot deep carried to the Town and there sold and an Acre of that ground which before was not worth 20. pound made worth fourscore Soutervoude is to the South at a leagues distance from the Town the way to it lies through Lam leaving on your left hand the Castle of Cronestien a fine House and Gardens This Village is little but it is in a fine Soil and has the best pasture grounds about Leyden The Magistrates have bought the Lordship of it as also that of Leyderdorp a Village that has more Palaces than Countrey peoples Houses 'T is here where we must admire the magnificence of the Citizens for one would think that there were an emulation between them who should shew most marks of riches by their expences It is built on both sides the Rhene that goes through it and behinde the Houses in the Meadows is a Church behinde which there was formerly a Monasterie Between Leyden and Ferrie there was another Nunnerie which was built upon a clayish ground out of which Bricks are made now In the year 1616. the Work-men found in digging two Meddals of gold representing the Emperor Nero to the life I have seen them both Woorschoten is another fine Village belonging to Monsieur de Duvenvoord whose Father was Keeper of the Great Seal Hereabouts the Countrey is so delicious that it is a kind of Paradise upon earth as well because of the diversity of Fields Meadows and Woods as of the prospect of so many stately Edifices and neat Gardens The Countrey people wear very good Cloathes ordinarily of black but without Cloaks Their Wives have gold Rings on their fingers It is not very rare to meet with Peasants here worth 10000. pound they enjoy as great a liberty as any Citizen Every Village has its Bailif Secretary Bourgemaster and Judges and besides a certain sort of Countreymen that they call Welboremans that is men of a good Family and well descended Alphen is half way to Woorde and takes its name from a Roman Knight There are very few Antiquities to be seen in Holland because that all the Countrey has been chang'd and new peopled and the Towns and Villages new built so that there are no footsteps of what it was it is so encreased in riches and beauty I come now to Caudekerk where there is a fair Castle belonging to Monsiâ—ur de Podgeest All these Villages have their Fairs once a year which anciently were never kept without some skirmish at Back-sword The stoutest did use to hang up a Back-sword and he that did come and touch it was engaged in a combate which was to be perform'd after this manner First the parties break off the points of their Swords then they take their Hats in their left hands to defend their faces and nevertheless they often pare off a Cheek or a Nose or so But these Duels are strictly forbidden and severely punish'd if attempted This Countrey is so finely diversified that it wants nothing for a perfect prospect For though Vines do not naturally grow in it yet by the industry of the Inhabitants there are many which produce Grapes enough for their eating And as for Wine they are sufficiently furnish'd by Sea Now I come back to the Town and observe that it is the Garden of all the adjacent Province for Lettice Parsley Carrets Pease Beans Parshley c. which are transported to Zeeland and Utrect At Amsterdam you shall hear them cry Leyden Parsnips And indeed the Gardiners industry is most admirable for they have five or six crops in a year upon the same ground I was desirous to know how much an Acre of ground might be worth to be sold and it was answer'd that Meadow was about sevenscore pound an Acre Corn grounds about 200. but Gardenage about 250. and sometimes 300. pound an Acre Every day at six of the clock goes off the first Boat for Amsterdam and at twelve a clock the last at eight and at eleven for Harlem at twelve for Utrect There are eight Barks for the Hague and as many for 〈◊〉 elft And so from these two Towns for Leyden from the Spring to October they go out at five a clock and after at half an hour past five The Arms of the Town are the Cross Keyes The Citizens are govern'd with so much moderation by the Magistrates that since the beginning of the Commonwealth to this day there has been no tumult nor rising by reason of Taxes Impositions or the coming of Strangers or for any other cause But now let us come to that powerfull City from which Neptune seems to take his Orders I mean Amsterdam CHAP. IX Of Amsterdam THis Town which has not its like in the whole world if we consider its Commerce the conveniency of its Harbour and the means it has of setting out powerfull Fleets takes its name from a Castle built upon Ye belonging to the Lords of Amstel It is seven leagues distant from Leyden and you may go to it four different wayes the most ordinary is that of the great Lake the next by Harlem and by the Channell made lately the third in a Waggon or on Horseback by the Veenes and the fourth by the night-Boat that you meet at Leyderdorp Since the late Wars this Town is encreased above two thirds and therefore we shall inquire