respect are very like unto the Polycnemon of Dioscorides but whether it be the same or no I leave the learned to decide Besides those before as we came down the River I saw a great many large Tamarisk Trees and abundance of a certain kind of Agnus Castus almost like unto the other only a great deal less and it had no more but three strong claver Leaves but above all the Galega called Goats-Rue in our Language which in these Parts groweth very high and in so great plenty that on the River side I could see nothing but this for several Miles together CHAP. IV. Of the Inhabitants of the Mountains and the great Wilderness we came through to Deer Of their ancient Origination and miserable and laborious Livelihood UPon this good and severe Command of the Bashaw Son of Mahomet Bashaw we were acquitted of our long Arrest and went away about Noon on the 27th of September we went again from thence through such great Desarts that for some Days we saw nothing worth relating but here and there little Huts made of some erected Boughs and covered with some Bushes wherein the Moors with their Families live to secure themselves from the great Heat Rain and Dews that are in these Parts most violent so that I admired how these miserable People could maintain themselves and so many Children in these dry and sandy Places where nothing was to be had Wherefore these poor People are very naked and so hungry that many of them if they saw us afar off would fling themselves into the great River and swim to us to fetch a piece of Bread And when we flung at them whole handfulls they would snap at it just like hungry Fish or Ducks and eat it Others did gather it and put it into the Crown which they make neatly of their Sheets on the top of their Heads and so swim away with it After these sandy Desarts had continued a great while we came at length out of them between high rough and bare Hills which were so barren that there was to be seen neither Plough-Lands nor Meadows neither House nor Stick neither High-way nor Foot-path wherefore those People that live there have no Houses but Caves and Tents as they have in the great Desarts where because of the great Heat and Driness the Soil is so barren that they cannot subsist in a place for any considerable time nor have Villages or certain Habitations Wherefore they wander up and down fall upon the Caravans and plunder them and make what shift they can to get a livelihood These Mountains as I am informed reach to the River Jordan the Dead and the Red-Seas c. wherein are situated Mount Sinai Horeb c. and the Town Petra which by the Prophet Isaiah is called Petra of the Desarts The Arabians that live in these Desarts and round about them are extraordinary Marks-men for Bows and Arrows and to fling Darts which are made of Canes They are a very numerous People and go out in great Parties every where almost they are a very ancient Nation and come from the Sons of Ishmael but chiefly from his Eldest Son Nebajoth and were anciently called the War-like Nabathees and their Country the Land or Province of the Nabathees which Josephus testifieth in Book I. Chap. 21. where he says that the Twelve Sons of Ishmael which he had by an Egyptian Wife his Mother Agar from whom they were called Agarens as you may see in the first of the Chronicles and the sixth Verse being also of the same Country were possessed of all the Country between the Euphrates and the Red-Seas and called it the Province of the Nabathees The Midianites that bought Joseph of his Brethren and carried him into Egypt may also be reckoned among these This same Country is also chiefly by Pliny because thereabout are no other Habitations but Tents wherein the Inhabitants live called Scenitis From this we may conclude that the Prophet Isaiah in his 60th Chapter and David in his 120th Psalm did speak of them when chiefly the latter maketh mention of the Tents of Kedar whereby he understands a Country that is inhabited by such a Nation as liveth in Tents and is derived from Kedar the Son of Ishmael whom his Father Abraham as a strange Child born by his Maid Agar did thrust out together with his Mother into the Desarts his words are these Wo is me that I sojourn in Mesheck that I dwell in the Tents of Kedar In our times these and other Nations are called the Saracens which have very much encreased under Mahomet which by his Mother was an Ishmaelite and did spread very much and so they were in David's time a very strong Nation wherefore he prayeth very earnestly in his 83 Psalm that God would punish and slay and disperse them as Enemies of his Holy Church But that I may come to our former Intention again here the Arabians asked us very often again where their King was at that time so that our Master had business enough to answer them whereby you may observe what great Respect and Love they have for their King But that they might not altogether look upon us as Outlandish Men nor presently discern us to be Strangers we did sometimes when there was occasion for it change our Turbants and let one end thereof according to their Fashion hang down which they do to make themselves a Shade against the Heat that is very cruel in these Countries But yet if any body be he who he will doth enquire after their King and wants to come before him to present him with a Suit of Cloaths c. or to desire a Pass from him or if one should go about to hire one of them to shew him the way to a certain place or through their Country which he may do for a very small price he would soon find one or other that would be ready to do it but among the Turks there is no such Obedience for if you should desire any thing of them to do in the Name of their Sultan they are not willing to do it except it would redound to their great Profit Wherefore a Turkish Guide to conduct you would cost you a great deal more than one of them Besides they also remember their Master daily and hardly speak of any thing but of him his great riches c. but with such Pride and Greatness chiefly when they speak of his powerfulness and enlarging of his Kingdom as if some share of these were belonging to them and that they must be respected for it In this Navigation through the great Desarts we two did not spend much because the Towns were at so great a distance from one another that we could not reach them to provide our selves daily with Necessaries as we do in our Country on the Danube and Rhine or Lodgings We were necessitated to be contented with some slight Food or other and make a shift with Curds Cheese Fruits
Shillings that was bigger than an Hungarian Bullock Thus much I had to relate of Bagdet its Situation Trade and strange Plants so much as I could find and see at that improper time Being that I expected daily Company to go with me to Aleppo again by the way of several Towns and not straight through the sandy Wildernesses a Persian that I got acquainted withal in the mean while did inform me that the Sophi King of Persia had several Unicorns at Samarcand which he kept there and also in two Islands Alc and Tylos which lay from Samarcand nine Days Journey further towards the East near Spaam some Griffins by them called Alera which were sent him out of Africa from Prester-John They are a great deal bigger and higher have a red coloured Head a bearded Bill and a Neck over-grown with Feathers a thick Body black Wings like unto an Eagle and a long Tail like a Lion and Feet like a Dragon they are very eager for Flesh while they are yet young the King taketh them along with him and goeth often thither for Sport and Pleasures sake but as they grow up and strong he hath them chained about their Necks very strongly I did believe this the sooner because he could also tell me what Trees and Fruit grow there and chiefly those whereof Theophrastus maketh mention and out of him Pliny He also gave me an Account besides these of others that grow out of Persia in several places as of the Tree Palla which Theophrastus and Pliny mention which the Wise men did eat in the Eastern Countries and of the Musa of the Arabians whereof the former bear delicate sweet-tasted and very wholesome Fruit by them called Wac which are round reddish and as big as the Indian Melons But whether this be the noble Fruit Mangas whereof Clusius maketh mention in his History of Indian Plants which for Goodness sake is carried over Sea into Persia I leave to the learned to decide But the Musa which is as aforesaid also common in Syria beareth a great deal smaller Fruit which is smooth yellowish and bended almost like unto Citruls in shape These are also of a sweetish taste and therefore the pleasanter to eat but are very unwholesome so that Alexander the Great was forced to forbid his Souldiers to eat of them The same Persian did also inform me of the Poysonous Fruit Persea which is still known to them by the Name of Sepha which they esteem very little and also the Peaches called Het which are not so poysonous as some say as the above-mentioned for they esteem the Kernels thereof to be good wholesome Physick But yet that they are not esteemed by them the chief Reason is that they perswade themselves that Nimrod who was a great Magician or Necromancer poysoned them by his Black-Art and that since that time they could not be eaten wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since This I thought convenient to mention rather for the sake of those that have a mind to travel that if one or more of them should go into these Countries they might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things CHAP. IX Which way I came in my return from Bagdet through Assyria the Confines of Persia and the Province of the Curters to the Town Carcuch Capril c. and at length to the River Tigris to Mossel that Famous Town which was formerly called Nineve WHen hindered in my Travels for several weighty Reasons I was forced to go back again I looked up my Goods as I was advised by my good Friend the Christian whereof I made mention here before and fitted my self for my Journey I got for my Companions three Jews one whereof came down the Euphrates with me the others came from Ormutz for I could get no others to travel with me to Aleppo We set out on the 16th of December of the 74th Year for Carcuch distant Six Days Journey in the Confines of Media on the other side of the River Tigris which is still called by them in their Language Hidekel By the way we first saw some well-tilled Fields and above us on the River Tigris some Villages so that I could not but think I should meet with a Country that had plenty of Corn Must and Honey c. as it was commended by the the Arch-koob bearer of the King of Assyria and compared even with the Land of Promise but the further we went the greater grew the Wildernesses so that we were forced to lodge all Night in the Fields The next Morning there appeared a great way off more little Villages belonging to the King of Persia But we went on through the Desarts and my Fellow Travellers told me that they extend themselves to Persia and Media where we lost our way and came in the Evening into a Bog which hindered us so much that I because their Sabbath began whereon according to their Laws they must not travel was forced to stay there with them all Night long in it and also the next Day in great Showers of Rain not without great Inconveniency and Trouble During our staying there I look'd about me for some Plants but found none because they did but first begin to sprout but in the moist Places some wild Galengal with great round Roots by the Inhabitants called Soedt and by both Latines and Grecians Cyperus The 19th Day after we were not without trouble got out of the Mire our way extended its self still further through desolate Places and Desarts I thought of Julian that impious Roman Emperour and of his Army which when it went against the Persians and was very numerous over the River Tigris near to Ctesiphon he was by an Ancient Persian that was a Prisoner decoyed into these Desarts where he was beaten and routed by the Persians In this great Fight when the Emperour himself was mortally wounded he took up as Nicephorus and Eusebius say a handfull of Blood and flung into the Air yielded the Victory and said Then Galilean so he called Christ in whom he at first believed and afterwards denied and persecuted thou hast beaten and conquered me After we had lived for several Days very hardly in the Desarts and spent our time in Misery we came on the 20th by Scherb a Village over an Ascent into another more fruitful and well tilled Country situated on the Confines of Persia and for the most part inhabited by them which we could conjecture by the common Language Now though travelling through the Confines uses commonly to be very dangerous yet I thank God we met with none so that we without any Stop or Hinderance reached that Night the 21st of December to Schilb a curious Village where we rested all Night and refreshed our selves From thence we went on through large and fruitful Valleys but I found nothing for it was but just at the beginning of plowing time that was worthy to be mentioned for the Plants did but just begin
Sails and departed in the Night But in going thence for Tripoli we had for the most part contrary Winds which hindred us so much that we did not arrive there until the last day of September Thanks Honour and Glory be to the Almighty God that mercifully did protect us from all Dangers and Mischiefs and bought us safely into this Harbour CHAP. II. Of the Famous City of Tripoli of its fruitful Neighbourhood and great Trade And also of the splendid Baths and other magnificent Buildings to be seen there Their ways of making Rusma Pot-Ashes Soap c. BEfore Tripoli near the Sea-shore we saw five Castles like high Towers distant from one an other about a Musquet-shot where some Janisaries are kept in Garrison to cover the Ships in the Harbour which is in some measure surrounded with Rocks and to defend that Custom-house and the several Ware-houses where you may see all sorts of Goods brought from most parts of the World from any hostile Attempt or Assault but after the Sun was set and Night began to approach we made what haste we could to the Town which was an Hours going distant from us Some Turks went with us no other ways armed but with good strong Cudgels which as I was told they commonly carry to keep off the Wolves called Jacals whereof there are a great many in these Countries that are used to run seek and pursue after their Prey in the Night While we were a talking of them some came up pretty near us but as soon as they saw us they turned and ran away When we came to the Gate of the Town we found it shut up wherefore one of our Friends that met us to make us welcom called to some French Men that were in their Inn in their Language called Fondique which is near the Gate and reacheth quite to the Wall of the Town and desired that one of them would take the Pains to go to the Sangiacho to desire him to let the Gate be opened to let us in which they were willing to do But in the mean time that we staid before the Gate another that was an Enemy to our Friend ran also away and bespoke some Turks and Moors to set upon us which they were very willing to do and came with all speed through another Gate that is never shut along the Wall to us fell unawares upon us struck at us and took hold of us chiefly at our good Friend for whose sake all this was done others drew their Scymmeters upon us so that I thought we should have been all cut to pieces While this was a doing the Gate was opened and some French Men and their Consul himself came to our assistance and spoke to these Fellows earnestly exhorting them to desist and to let the Cause be decided by the Sangiacho and Cadi which at length they did So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the Croud into their Fondique where we remained all that night The Consul was very much displeased at this considering that such like Proceedings would be very troublesome to them wherefore he made great Complaints and Enquiries until at length he found out who was the Author thereof The next Morning we went to our Friends Houses in order to stay a while with them in the mean time we walked sometimes about in our own Cloaths to see the Town which is situated in the Country of Syria called Phoenicia which reached along the Sea-shore to Berinthus Sidon Tyrus and Acon as far to the Mountain of Carmelus The Town Tripoli is pretty large full of People and of good account because of the great Deposition of Merchandizes that are brought thither daily both by Sea and Land it is situated in a pleasant Country near the promontory of the high Mountain Libanus in a great Plain toward the Sea-shore where you may see abundance of Vineyards and very fine Gardens enclosed with Hedges for the most part consisting chiefly of Rhamnus Paliurus Oxyacantha Phillyrea Lycium Balaustium Rubus and little Palm-Trees that are but low and so sprout and spread themselves In these Gardens as we came in we found all sorts of Salletting and Kitchin-herbs as Endive Lettice Ruckoli Asparagus Seleri whose tops are very good to be eaten with Salt and Pepper but chiefly that sort that cometh from Cyprus Taragon by the Inhabitants called Tarchon Cabbages Colliflowers Turneps Horse-raddishes Carrots of the greater sort of Fennel Onions Garlick c. And also Fruit as Water-melons Melons Gourds Citruls Melongena Sesamum by the Natives called Samsaim the Seeds whereof they are very much used to strow upon their Bread and more but chiefly the Colocasia which is very common there and are sold all the Year long I have also found them grow wild about Rivulets but could never see either Flowers or Seeds on them I found also without the Gardens many Dates and white Mulberry-Trees which exceed our Aspen and Nut-Trees in height very much and also Pomgranat-Trees and Siliqua which the Grecians call Xylocerata the Arabs Charnubi Also Olive and Almond-Trees and Sebesten the Fruit whereof are to be had at Apothecaries Shops by the same Name Poma Adami Matth But in great plenty there are Citrons Lemons and Oranges which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs here Between these Gardens run several Roads and pleasant Walks chiefly in the Summer for they afford many shady Places and Greens where you are defended from the Heat and the Sun-beams and if passing through you should have a mind to some of the Fruits you may either gather some that are fallen down or else pull them from the nearest Trees without danger and take them home with you Without at the Sea-shore near the Old Town of Tripoli which together with many more as Antiochia Laodicea c. in the Year of our Lord 1183. was so destroyed by an Earthquake that nothing but a few Marks remain there were more Spring-gardens which some of the Merchants still remember But these were a few Years agone by the violence of the Seas so destroyed and so covered with Sand that now you see nothing there but a sandy Ground like unto the Desarts of Arabia Yet at Tripoli they have no want of Water for several Rivers flow down from the Mountains and run partly through the Town and partly through the Gardens so that they want no Water neither in the Gardens nor in their Houses The New Town in it self is of no strength for it is so meanly walled in that in several places in the Night you may get in and out But within there is a Citadel situated upon an ascent near the Water where a Garrison of a few Janisaries is kept They have low Houses ill built and flat at the top as they are generally in the East for they cover their Houses with a flat Roof or a Floor so that you may walk about as far the Houses go And the Neighbours walk over the tops of their
make a red Powder to excite the Appetite of the Stomach These and more strange and unknown Simples I did find at Tripolis But because it would be too tedious to describe them all therefore I have only made mention of those that Authors have described CHAP. V. Which way I travelled from Tripolis further to the two Famous Cities of Damant and Halepo AFter I had rested for several Weeks in Tripolis and had observed that City its Building and pleasant Situation and moreover the Manners Customs and Habits as well of the low as high ones I propounded to my self to Travel to Aleppo which is almost the biggest and the most Famous Trading City of Syria which lies five or six days Journey towards the North-east of Tripolis And when I met with some Companions to Travel with me we stored our selves with Provisions viz. Bread Cheese Eggs c. for our Journey and so set out of Tripolis the 9 th of November Anno 73. By the way we met with a great deal of Rain which commonly begins at that time of the Year and continueth almost all the Winter long This kept us so much back that we reached not to Damant which is in the mid-way from Tripolis to Aleppo before the fourth day There we lodged in one of their great Champs called Carvatscharas where we had a Chamber assigned us in which we found neither Table nor Chairs nor Bench nor Bed only upon the Floor was laid a Stromatzo twisted of Canes which was to serve us instead of them all There we bought in their Bazar some Victuals according to our pleasure and staid there all Night long The Town which some take to be the Old Apamia is pretty big and pretty well built it lies in a Valley between Hills so that you can see nothing of it the Castle only excepted which lyeth on the Hill and guardeth it very well before you are just come to it Round about it there is many Orchards and Kitchen-Gardens which they Water out of the River Hasce which is pretty large and runs through the Town The Water they lift up with Wheels for that purpose fixed in the River that pour it into Channels that carry it into the Gardens and so Water them in the great heat of the Sun to refresh them These Gardens had been worth my seeing but my Fellow-Travellers were in hast and so we put on the next Morning for Aleppo By the way we saw very good Corn-Fields Vineyards and Fields planted with Cotton which is brought from thence and sold to us under the Name of the place where it grew and also Silks and other Goods that are bought there at the first hand In these Countries are a great many Wild Asses called Onagri the Skins of them are very strong to wear and as they prepare them finely frockt on the outside as Strawberries are or like the Skin of the Sepia or Cuttle-Fish wherefore they commonly make their Scabbards for their Scymitars and Sheaths of their Knives thereof Their Blades are watered on both sides very subtilly they are made of good Metal well hardened and so sharp chiefly these that are made in Damascus that you may cut with them a very strong Nail in pieces without any hurt to the Blade They wear rather Knives than Daggers which they tye to their Girdles with finely wrought Tapes by their backs When we went on and came to the Promontory of Mount Libanus we saw abundance of Villages by the way which for the most part are inhabited by Christians viz. Syrians Maronites c. with whom we did Lodge sometimes over-night these entertained us very civilly and gave us such Wine to drink as grew on the Mountains than which I hardly remember I ever drank better Amongst the rest of the Villages we came to one called Hanal lying high in a Fruitful Country where as I am informed in former days a very fine City stood which is so desolated and in process of time decayed to that degree that in our days there is almost nothing of it left but a small Village and here and there in the Fields some small Ruins of Old Houses We went on further between the Mountains where we spied a little Town upon the Hills and above it a strong Castle which it 's said the French did formerly build that lyeth in a very convenient place between the Mountains so that you must go just by it but because it is haunted with Evil Spirits and Hobgoblins it remaineth unrepaired and uninhabited We left it on our left hand and came out into a spacious Corn-Field well tilled where on our left we saw the Town Sermin at a great distance and near to it and about it great Woods of Pistacio-Trees which are gathered there and sent to Tripolis and so by the Merchants to us Some of them grow also near the High-ways chiefly in the Village of Basilo where we stayed all Night In our way we found nine or ten Champs called Caravatscharas these are open Inns where the Caravans and Travellers go in commonly towards Evening to stay there all Night they are free to any body but you find neither Meat nor Drink there if you will have it you must bring it along with you and must be contented to lye upon Straw if you can have it upon the lower Wall which goes round about the sides on purpose to give to Horses Asses and Camels their Food upon it They are generally three Miles distant from one another they are large and stately and as strong in Walls as Castles commonly built four-square and have within a large Yard and round about it are Stables which are quite open just like Cloisters Some of them have a Garrison of Nine or Twelve Janisaries to keep the Roads clean and to protect the Travellers from Assaults of the Inhabitants and Arabians When we had travelled over several rough Mountains and came almost near to Halepo we saw at last the City just like Damand of the bigness of Strasbourg at the Gates we dismounted because in Turky no Outlandish Man hath liberty to Ride through a City and so we went into it and I went into the French Fundique to take my Lodgings as all Germans use to do CHAP. VI. Of the Situation of the Potent City of Halepo of the Buildings thereof and also of the delicate Fruits and fine Plants that grow there within and without Gardens THE Town of Halepo which is the greatest and most Potent in Syria anciently called Nerea is in some places well Fortified with Ditches and Walls only they are not quite round it so that one may the same it is with Tripolis at any time of Night go in and out Neither are the Gates as used in our Country chiefly in Cities of Account beset with Souldiers but you will only see two or three waiting at the Head-Gates where the High-ways go through which are rather there to take Custom than to keep the Gates neither have they
also great plenty They are also very well provided with Horse-raddishes Garlick and Onions which the Inhabitants still call Bassal Of Pumpions Citruls and Cucumis anguinus which they call Gette they plant as many as they have occasion for but many more Angurien an Indian Muskmillion Water-mellons which they call Batiechas but Serap Dullaha they are large of greenish colour sweet and pleasant to eat and very cooling wherefore they esteem them to be their best Fruits but chiefly those which have more red than white within they are very innocent and harmless and keep so long good that they sell them in their Batzars all the Winter long Moreover there are three sorts of those Plants which the Arabians call Melanzana Melongena and Beudengian as Ash coloured Yellow and Flesh coloured which are very like one another in their Crookedness and Length and like unto the long Gourds There are two other sorts which are called Bathleschain viz. oblong and round ones which are much bigger of a black colour and so smooth and glazed that they give a Reflection They eat these oftener boiled chiefly after the way which Averrhöes mentioned than raw Without their Gardens are two other strange Plants which also being they eat them commonly with others may be reckoned among the Kitchin-Herbs whereof one is called by them Secacul which I found about the Town in shady places and among Trees and in the Corn its Roots are of an Ashen colour without and white within smooth mellow or tender of one Inch thick and one and a half long it hath instead of Fibers little knobs like unto Warts and a sweet taste not unlike to our Carrots in Stalk Herb or Head saving only the Flowers which are yellow the Herb-women carry them strung upon Strings about the Streets to sell them The other sort is also very plentiful and is found in dry and rough places which the Inhabitants to this day with Serapio called Hacub whereof he maketh mention in his 295 Chapter under the Name of Hacub Alcardeg whereof they cut in the Spring the young Shoots or Sprouts that grow round about it boil and eat it as we do Sparagus corruptly called Sparrowgrass the whole Plant is very like to our Carlina only this hath bigger higher and more prickly Heads whereon appear Flesh-coloured Flowers It being that it is every way like it and that also the Root hath the same Vertue for if you steep it in Water and drink of it it maketh you vomit and fling up therefore I am of opinion that without doubt it must be the true Silybum Dioscoridis Besides this there grow also in the Road and on old Walls such plenty of Capers that they are not at all esteemed they take these Flowers before they open and pickle them and eat them for Sauce with their Meat I had almost forgot another Herb which I found in their Gardens that beareth roundish smooth Stalks about two Foot high the Leaves are two and two equally distant from one another and one above the other they are long crenated at the sides like unto our Mercurialis between them sprout out in harvest time yellow Flowers which produce long aculeated Cods which open themselves when they are ripe within them are six distinctions and in each of them little black Seeds placed in very good order the Herb is of a sower taste like Sorrel wherefore it is to every body chiefly the Jews known which boil the Leaves thereof with their Meat to eat them Wherefore some take it to be Olus Judaicum Avicennae and others take it for Corchorum Plinii whether it be or no I suspend my Judgment They have abundance of Pulses in these Countries which they feed upon so that you see several in their Batzars which sell nothing else but them Among the rest you will find abundance of Phaseoli or Kidney Beans little and great ones very white and many sorts of Cicer which they call Cotane and with Avicenna Hamos Whereof they have as many as we have Pease in our Country and boil them for their daily Food and oftentimes they eat them raw chiefly if they be roasted till the outward Shell falls off they often call for them thus dressed when they are a drinking in their Coffee-houses and have them brought to Table with Cheese after their Meals instead of Preserves or Fruit as Cibebs Hasel-nuts and the like for they eat very mellow and have a fine saltish Taste They dress the Orobus after the same manner which they call now Ades and Hades but whether right or no I leave to the Learned they are somewhat less and rounder and not unlike the Cicers in their colour only that these are reddish and white and the other white and yellow These put me still in mind of another strange Plant by the Arabians called Mas whose Leaves and Cods are prety like our Phaseolus and the Cods contain little round Seeds something less than our Pease of a dark green colour and are so smooth and shining that they reflect again Serapio maketh mention of them in his 116 Chapter under the Name of Mes. And Avicennas in his 488 Chapter under the Name Meisce and the very learned and experienced Botanist Carolus Clusius calleth it in his Epitome of the Indian Plants by the Name of Mungo The Turks love these Pulses very well chiefly to eat them among their Rice So much I thought convenient to mention here of their Kitchin-Herbs and Fruits that grow in Gardens and about Halepo of others that belong not to the Kitchin I shall make mention hereafter In this City of Aleppo the Merchants buy great store of Drugs brought from several parts by the Caravans as Rheubarb Galbanum Opoponax Styrax Laser Sagapenum Scammony c. CHAP. VII Of the high Places and Authority of Bashaws what great Courts they keep and how they administer their Offices as also of their way of living of their Priviledges of their Manners and Conversation THE City of Halepo which some considering the Name and Situation believe to be the Town Chalibon of Ptolomaeus situated in Chalibonitis is subject unto the Turkish Emperor together with all the adjacent places wherefore he keepeth a Bashaw in it which is to rule it and the whole Province according to his Will and Pleasure Now as the Bashaws are almost the chiefest and highest under the Emperor so they keep according to their Station and Dignity their Courts as great as the Princes do in our Country according as they have great or small Provinces So they have under them their chief Commanders as Sangiacks Bolucs-bashaws and others which are continually with them go with them to their Temples or any other place where-ever they have a mind to go in great flocks both on Foot and on Horse-back which by their several Habits are to be distinguished but chiefly the Bolucsbashaw which as Captains have an Hundred Janisaries under them which in costly Cloaths and high Heads with Feathers run on Foot
like Lacqueys by their Master They have also besides their Court as well as the Emperour himself peculiar Lodgings for their Concubines which they either have pick'd up here and there out of Towns and Countries or else taken in time of War by Sea and Land from Christians and other Nations wherefore they keep many Eunuchs to attend them constantly They take great delight in Hunting and go often several Days Journeys after it If they take Wild Boars they give them because they are by their Laws forbid to eat them to the Christians which maketh the Turks often to mock them in the Streets crying out and calling them Chansir quibir that is great Boars or Hog-eaters Although the Bashaws are great Persons that Command over Cities and Countries yet they are rckoned to be like others but Slaves to their Master that have nothing of their own that they can bequeath to their Heirs or Posterity after their decease as our Princes can because the Emperour after their decease taketh Possession of all their visible Estates and allows only to their Children an Annuity Nay if their Sultan Commands them to go from one place to an Inferiour one or to leave their Dignity quite and clean they must obey immediately if they will not run themselves into greater Inconveniencies or Dangers This is the Reason that such Persons although Rich seldom build great Buildings so that you see none in all the Country except it be a Chappel or a Champ which they build to be remembred by They rather keep their Riches in Gold and Silver which can be hid and so secretly given to their Posterity They bestow but very little upon Jacks for they are too Covetous neither have they many Work-men that are able to set them These Bashaws being altogether for their own Advantage that strive to get Wealth their Subjects must needs suffer very much under them but chiefly Strangers that live there to Traffick as Italians Frenchmen c. whereby between them and the Bashaws that mind their own and not the Publick Good arise often great Differences and they must have suffered great damage if their Soveraigns to prevent these things and that their Subjects may deal securely had not taken care to send them discreet and prudent Men which are called Consuls endued with great Priviledges from the Grand Signior to hear their Complaints and to protect them against any Assaulters It happened in my time while I staid there that great Differences arose between the Consul of Venice and the new Bashaw who was sent thither instead of the deceased one in the Year 75. the 6 th day of March who came in to take Possession with a great number of Horse and Foot At his Arrival the Consul of Venice went accompanied with a great number of Merchants in great State to meet him to bid him Welcom and presented him with Fourteen Cloaths Richly wrought of Silk desiring him to take his Country-men into his Protection that they might Trade and deal safely under him The Bashaw looking upon the Cloaths behaved himself very unkindly and looking upon them to be very inconsiderable he not only refused them but answered the Consul very scornfully So it often happens that these great Persons come to differ and pursue their Differences so far that at last it must be brought before the Emperour and his Court. If they find that the Bashaw is in the wrong he is immediately punished not regarding his great Authority according to the default either in Money or else if it be a great Crime he must lose his Life for it which is the oftner done because they depend very much upon Traffick which bringeth the Emperour in yearly a very great Revenue Yet notwithstanding they are punished so severely sometimes the Pride and Ambition of the Bashaws is so great that to uphold their Greatness they will not cease to strive by any means after Riches and great Wealth which their Subjects not to speak of Strangers find daily whom they squeeze and press chiefly if they find them Rich to that degree that they cannot come to any thing nor thrive under them Moreover they draw after the decease of their Rich Subjects for the most part the greatest share of what they leave into their own Purses so that such Persons do not take Pains nor bestow any great Cost to build their Houses or to till their Grounds as we do in our Country They have commonly in Market-Towns and Villages low Houses or Halls whereof many are so covered with Hills that you cannot see them before you are quite at them When you come into them you find neither Chairs nor Stools nor Tables only a couple of pieces of Tapestry spread whereon they sit after their fashion and instead of Feather-Beds whereof they make no use at all they have Mats and Quilts which they fold together in the Day and hang them up in a corner at Night they spread them out again to sleep on them They have no occasion for Sheets to cover themselves as we do nor for any Towels neither for instead of them they use long pieces of Rags which they hang about their naked Necks or hang them at their Girdles We see sometimes in their Houses above all in the Country several strange-shaped Earthen Vessels which cover whole sides of the Wall in their Rooms which their Relations use to Present them with at their Wedding which to please them they use to put up and to keep there rather for their Remembrance than to make any other use of them In their Kitchen they have very few Utensils perhaps a few Pipkins Pans and Trenchers for they boyl all their Victuals in one Pot together that their Maids may not have many to cleanse or to put up Concerning their Cloaths they bestow not very much upon them although they be well to pass for they love Money so well that they will rather spend a whole day in contending for a Penny than pay it willingly Wherefore a Man that will Travel through these Countries must have his Purse well stored and keep it very close that no body may know its worth but chiefly he must have a care of the Jews which are not to be trusted if you will escape great danger They will not only do nothing for you without Reward but if they suspect you to have any Money they will endeavour to get it from you Wherefore those that take a Pilgrimage into the Holy Land and go in pitiful Cloaths are not much troubled by them The Courtiers of the Bashaws and amongst the rest chiefly the Eunuchs and Dwarfs c. whereof they have several go in their Taffety and Sattin Cloaths which are long and very well trimmed wherewith their Master furnisheth them being Gifts from others which he distributeth among them The Souldiers Spahees Janisaries c. commonly have blew woollen Cloaths from the Court and they live of their Pay that is 4 5 6 7 or 8 Medins which
standing behind the Tree As soon as he saw it he gave over and beckened to me to give it him so I stepp'd to him and when I reached it to him he took it But my Table-book fell out of my Pocket when I pulled out the Money upon the Ground wherein I had recorded many things which when he saw he would have it also but I refusing it he grew mad and began to renew the same Game again then I repented that I did not dismount him when I gave him the Money yet I consider'd that if I should have done him a Mischief as he deserved yet although I had never so good a Cause I was sure I must be cast and perhaps come to a greater mischief and hurt so I gave him it and after he had received it he was pacified and rode away But to come to my former purpose again I found about the River the other Tragium Diosc in the ploughed Grounds and afterwards also in abundance upon the Hill but generally in moist places near to the Spring that runs down the Hill Its Root is whitish pretty long and slender from thence spread themselves some woody Stalks not above a little finger long whereon grew towards the top many Leaves together which were long and had of each side of their rib small Leaves one opposite to the other which were just like the Trichomanes divided only somewhat longer about the bigness of these of Asplenium and are as they delicately green within but without and against the Ground of an Ash-colour and woolly chiefly the small ones that are just sprouting out between the others Out of these first-mentioned Stems come first naked long Stalks upon which grow at the top Violet-brown Flowers close together as if it was an Ear of Corn The Inhabitants call it Secudes and so did the ancient Arabians chiefly Avicen in the 679th Chapter where he also attributeth this Vertue that it is very proper in the Bloody-flux In their Gardens the Turks love to raise all sorts of Flowers wherein they take great delight and use to put them on their Turbant so I could see the fine Plants that blow one after another daily without trouble In December I saw our Violets with dark-brown and white Flowers whereof they gave me in that Season several Nosegays Then came the Tulips Hyacinths Narcissies which they still name by the old name Nergis Before all other I saw a rare kind with a double yellow Flower called Modaph and a strange Convolvulus hederae foliis with great purple Flowers whereout grew Seed-vessels as you see in the new Harmala with three distinct Capsula's wherein is kept its black Seed to which they attribute the vertue of evacuating tough Slime This is found sometimes in Gardens and by the Inhabitants called Hasnisca and the Persians Acafra and Serapio Chapt. 273. Habalnil the Latines Granum Indicum and Carthamus Indicus and he that hath a mind to know more of it let him look into the Author himself in the above-mentioned place in the 306th Chapter of Avicen and the 208th of Rhases I also found in their Gardens Balm Basil and a fine sort of Amaranthus which for his colour-sake may be called Symphonia Plinii and therefore called Parrots Feather I cannot forbear before I conclude to mention some which I found here and there in the Batzars and among them a strange sort of Lillies which as I am told grow in sunny moory mossy and moist places whereon groweth a long Stalk of the same colour and thickness of ours only a great deal broader but broadest of all at top where it is about three fingers broad so that it is like unto a Spatula that is painted at one end On this Stalk grow at each side several tender Leaves which are pretty long but very small and pointed and at the top thereof some white Flowers like unto ours When I was thinking of this at several times what they were called by the Ancients it came into my mind that I had read of them in Theophrastus lib. 4. cap. 9. and I really believe it to be the same But whereas Theophrastus writes in the quoted place that they do not touch the Ground I can say nothing to it for I never saw any of them growing They have also some small Roots to sell called Mamirani tchini good for Eyes as they say they are yellowish like Curcuma but a good deal longer and thinner and knotted and very like unto our Poligonatum and may be esteemed to be the true Mamican whereof Rhases maketh mention in several places There is also among others brought a great quantity of the Juice of Scammony that is still very soft it cometh in Leathern Bags from out of the Country and so it 's sold to our Merchants in their Fondiques but those that buy it must have a great care because it is often adulterated that they be not cheated There is also a good deal of the Juice by the Apothecaries called Opium and by the Inhabitants Ofinn which the Turks Moors and Persians and other Nations take inwardly not only in War at the time when they go to fight their Enemies to make them couragious and valiant but also in time of Peace to drive away Melancholy and Care or at least to ease it Their religious People make also use of it but above all the rest the Deruis and take so much of it that it maketh them presently drowsie and without consideration that when after their barbarous and silly way they cut slash or burn themselves they may feel less smart or pain If any one hath so begun to make use of it they take about the quantity of a large Pea at a time they cannot well leave it off again except they have a mind to throw themselves into a Sickness or other Inconveniencies For as they confess themselves that if they omit taking of it they find themselves very ill in their Bodies Opium is commonly taken from the white Poppy-heads in their Language called Cascasch wherein they cut when they are young and tender a spiral or winding-circle round about it from top to bottom one under the other out of those runs some Milk which they let be there until it groweth thick then they gather it and make it into Balls like unto our perfumed Soap-balls Being that the Turks use this Opium so commonly it happens sometimes that they take so much of it that it is very dangerous wherefore they have an Antidote as I was informed that is the Root Aslab whereof I have made mention before which they give to bring them to rights again I found also in the great Batzars a sort of Alga sold in their Shops which was dark-red and therefore very useful for Dyers it had Stalks of the thickness of a Finger and was surrounded with several thin Scales or rather Leaves and round Wherefore it may be taken to be a Saderva Serap and Herb Alargivan of Andreas Bellunensis
got towards Night upon the Balls to stand Centinel it being my turn so when I saw one with a Mug full of Water I desired him to give me some to drink which he was willing to do and reached me the Mug I going to take it trod by chance upon a Fiddle of one of the Turks and broke it Although he had had great occasion to be angry with me for this yet understanding that I had Giue enough to mend it he was presently quieted and well contented The next Morning we sat together and mended the Fiddle as well as we could when the Dervis saw us busy about the Fiddle he was very angry that we did not help to spread out the Merchandices which we had done already before we began so he took the Fiddle broke it and flung it into the River then he came back and pretended to bang us thinking to have the same Success with this as he had with the Wine But the Turk seeing this took up a good Cudgel that was thrown up by the River and struck him several times over his Head and Limbs that the Blood ran down his Ears and Face and at length he grew so angry that he went to draw his Scymeter but before he could we stept in between them got them asunder mitigated the business and appeased them So this Saint of theirs looked very dismal in his long and lank black Hair and had besides on his Body here and there several Scars viz. on his Head and Breast and above all upon his Arms which he had cut or burnt himself which is usual to that Order and other Turks to do which set often on their Flesh burning and red glowing Spangs or instead of them Linen Rags about an Inch thick twisted very hard together broad below and pointed on the top tapering just like unto a Pyramid which they set on Fire and let it burn out with a great deal of Patience upon their bare Skin so long until it is quite consumed and brought to Ashes then they tie it up with Cotton they also do the same sometimes in Rheums of the Head and Eyes c. to dry them up or to turn them and to draw them into another place So I have seen several which have had at least Twenty Scars about them but chiefly on their Arms whereof-some were of the bigness of a Shilling besides Wounds and Scratches they had But from whence they received this inhumane way to wound and torment themselves I do not know except they had it anciently from the Priests of Baal which used to wound themselves with Knives and Lances as we read in the 18th Chapter of the 3d of the Kings until the Blood followed These Holy Scars and Tokens of their Zeal I could soon see and observe on this Moor for according to his Order which is a very great one he was to wear no Cloths upon his Body neither Winter nor Summer only a little Scarf to cover his Privy Members withal Instead of them they put Sheep Skins about them whereon they lie also at Night and so they serve them for Cloaths Bed and Cover And so they pretend by their exteriour Apparel and Behaviour to great Vertue and Patience as if they were dead to the World and to a peculiar Holiness in praying fasting watching c. whereas they are full of Roguery and Knavery so that you shall hardly find any like them With this came also several other Religious Men of several Orders which were all in several distinct Habits as they are in our Country among them was a very strong well set young Man of the Order of the Geomaliers as they call it which are rather Secular than Clergy-men they are generally Tschelebys that is Gentlemen and rich Persons which take great delight in travelling in their young Days under pretence of Holiness like Pilgrims at other Peoples Costs through several Countries and Kingdoms to see and learn and to get Experience This had only a blue Coat on that covered his Body tied about with a Sash and Shooes of Sheeps Skins such as the Arabians in the Desarts use to wear There went along with us Two more whereof one had a great Ring in each Ear about the thickness of a Finger and so heavy that it stretched down his ear-laps to his very Shoulders These are of the Order called the Calendriers which lead a sober and abstemious Life before People wherefore they separate themselves from the People and walk about like Hermits into Desarts where-ever they can to pray there ardently and to cry out the hours whereof they have Five every Day as the Priests do from the Steeples wherefore this Man did separate himself as often as he had an Opportunity far from us that the Beasts could rather see and hear him than we that were in the Ship When he had done this he came to us again and looked so devoutly as if he had been in a Rapture or Ecstasie The other was a Dervis whereof I have made mention before which also kept to a very strict Order for he prayed devoutly and ardently chiefly at Night after Sun set at what time two or three more used to come to him and among them sometimes some of our Merchants they did stand together in a circle and so began to pray as I heard often first very lowly then by degrees louder but when they came to the Leila Hillalla c. they were so loud that you might hear them afar of and then they repeated only these Words very often and every time they repeated them they turned their Head from one side to the other as if they looked upon one another by turns to shew their great Love one to another so they repeat these words very often and every time quicker and quicker until they abbreviate them at last and say only Lahu Huhu By this pratling or jabbering and moving of their Heads they became at length so giddy and weary that the cold Sweat ran down them But this their Saint did not pronounce the words of their Prayers with the rest but struck on his Breast with his Fist upon his Heart which gave instead thereof so strange a Tune as if he had been hallow within much like unto the Noise that a Turky-Cock uses to make when he is very angry so that it would have frighted any Man chiefly if he had been alone with him and he would with his terrible Face rather have taken him to be an Apparition than a Man These above-mentioned Words he repeateth so often and so long until he fainteth away and falls down and there he lieth as if he were dead Then the others cover him let him lie and go their ways After he hath lain thus a good while as if he had been ravished in his Prayers or had seen a peculiar Vision he cometh to himself riseth and appeareth again All these Saints although they practise their Religion after a peculiar manner which according
where in former Years the Potent Caliphi did reside I did hear no more of it in all my Journey until at my return when my Comrade Hans Vlrich Krafft of Vlm then Prisoner in Tripoli did relate it to me so as it was reported to him by Credible Hands who told me that the Trusci are very numerous that they were divided into several Regiments of several colours and that those that live in the middle of the high Mountains were the most numerous of them all that they live in a Country that is very well secured and surrounded so that they need not nor will not be subject either to the Turks or any other Potentate They are Warlike People for the generality good Gunners that make their own Guns and any other sorts of Arms c. they have plenty of Corn Oyl Wine good Meat and good Fruit so that they need not any Assistance of Strangers They chiefly deal in Silk whereof they wind from Silkworms about 100 Rotulas in a Year which is about 450 Hundred weights to send from thence into other Countries These have their white Colours and their Confederates that live on the outward Hill toward the Sea at Baruti near Tripoli have red ones and have also their Colonel which they call Ermin Mackfur which also those that belong unto the white Colours acknowledge to be theirs as well as their own which was lately murdered This because he could not entrench himself as well as the other Trusci on the Hill agreed with the Great Sultan and made Peace upon this account that if he would let him live peaceably and quietly he would help him to Protect the Country and pay unto him yearly the accustomed Tribute but if the Grand Signior would not be pleased with this proferr he would join the rest and assist them The Emperour accepted of this and did not only make this Ermin Mackfur Lord of all Baruti and Seide called Sidon but did also procure him a great and plentifull Yearly Revenue out of these Countries thinking thus to oblige him to help him with his Trusci to subdue the others not doubting but that he might easily overcome these when once the others on the Mountains were killed But they would not get up the Hill but did proferr to the Turks that if their Men and the Moors would go up they would be ready in the Valley about Baruti to cut off all that should fall into their hands This Answer they gave to the Sultan only for Fashion's sake for no Truscus killeth the other When the Sultan saw that they would not bite one another and that he was not like to obtain any great matter from the Colonel he did notwithstanding send up the Bashaw of Damascus with Six other Bashaws and Seventeen Sangiacks about Two Hundred Thousand strong both Foot and Horse well Armed to subdue the before-mentioned Trusci which were about Sixty Thousand strong to burn demolish and destroy their Towns Villages Houses and Plantations After they were come up to the Ascent Two Days Journey from Damascus they found the Roads so steep that no body could pass them on Horseback for there was nothing to be seen but rough and sharp-pointed Rocks So they agreed to dismount and to go up to them on Foot and so they took presently Six or Seven Villages whereof there is said to be Twenty Seven in all but they found nothing in them but some Women and Children and very few Men the rest were got upon the Hills where they had intrenched themselves which were all cut in pieces and the Villages burnt The Turks and Moors thought themselves obliged according to their Emperours Command to go on further so they endeavoured and got up higher but could not do any more harm to the Trusci being hindered by the bad ways But on the contrary the Trusci met them sometimes and poured their Shot upon them from all Sides before they were aware of it so that they were but in an ill Condition Then when the Turks would pursue these Men they were too quick for them as being born and bred in these Mountains so they did only laugh at them and bid them kiss their Breeches So the Turks partly for want of Provision partly being tired by the steep Roads were sometimes forced not without great damage and loss of their Men to retire again to take better Measures Sometimes also the Trusci would stand between the Rocks covered and when they found any of their Enemies appear chiefly those that endeavoured to climb up the Rocks they would all of a sudden shoot among them as among a Flock of Pigeons so that many of them did precipitate themselves and broke their Necks They would also sometimes decoy the Turks into a good Road and after Eight or Ten Thousand of them were passed they would with Six Thousand Trusci fall in the Rear of them to drive them up higher where others soon did appear that came down upon them so they surrounded them sometimes and received them so warmly that but very few of them came back again to tell what was become of the rest After this War had continued for about two Months the Bashaw at last was forced to make a shameful Retreat with the Remainder of his Forces and that so much the sooner because the Winter began to approach so that it was impossible to endure the Frost and Snow which occasioned many to die and the chiefest of them came home sick The Trusci pretend to be Christians and the Posterity of those that some Years ago by Might and Strength recovered the Holy Land so that still to this Day they have a great Affection for Christians which those that travel among them to buy Silks can testifie whom they treat and entertain very civilly with good Meat and good Wine yet refuse to take any Money for it And say That what God hath given them they are bound to distribute among us Christians But they hate Mahometans and Jews and keep very good Intelligence with the Christians of this Country Yet they themselves are neither Christians Turks Moors nor Jews For they do not go to Mass nor any other publick Worship of God They cry out sometimes to Heaven that God would be pleased to protect them They also believe according to the Opinion of Pythagoras that the Souls of the deceased according to their Merits transmigrate from one Body into another That the Soul of a pious Man goeth into a new-born Child and that of an ill Man into the Body of a Dog or other wild Beast chiefly if he hath lived very ill As they believe so they live also Among them they marry to their nearest Relations the Brother to his Sister the Son to his Mother the Father to the Daughter and they lie all together at Night but they will not marry into a strange Family The Father or the Mother says Seeing that God hath given me this Child as a Seed unto me why should I throw
below Bagadet and at length fall into the Persian Gulf by the Town Balsora or Batzera They are pious and honest People innocent but very zealous in their Religion and receive Strangers readily that come to them and give them Lodging as I have often found it in my Travels They are also very much inclined to help and assist the poor Slaves that are under Turkish Confinement and ready to help them out Their Merchants whereof there are many amongst them are dispersed not only over all Turkey but also Persia the Indies and many other Countries wherefore they have in all chief Towns of Trading as Antiochia Alepo situated in Coelosyria Orpha c. their peculiar Ware-houses and Churches and also in Jerusalem whither they go in great numbers the beautiful Church of St. Jacob the Greater and also below near to the place of Sculls another Chapel locked up c. and have commonly before their Chancels large Hangings behind which the Priests keep separated from the People These although they agree in very many Points and Articles exactly with those of the Reformed Religion yet notwithstanding they have some Errors worth to be rejected and some scandalous Customs besides So you may see them here and there cry over the Graves of their deceased Friends for to give them Visits they go out in the morning early the greater part of them old Women and there they make such Mourning and and Howling that the Travellers that come by for their Graves or burying places are generally out of Town near the High Ways may hear them a great way off There you shall see them sit some folding their Hands over their Heads and looking mournfully others fetching great Sighs beating on their Breasts others spreading themselves over the Graves as if they would embrace their Friends and take them in their Arms. In the mean while their Priests go about among them Reading and Praying and sometimes they speak to some of them When they have done mourning thus and cast Sorrows from their Hearts sufficiently they sit down together eat drink and be merry They do not at all esteem the Popes of Rome but have their own Prelates which they honour with great and peculiar Reverence neither do they believe any Indulgences nor Purgatory Their Priests go in plain Habits they have Wives as well as their Laymen they let their Hair and Beards grow they keep on Easter-day a great Feast and soon after beginneth their Lent which they keep strictly and therein as also on Wednesday and Friday all the year round they eat neither Eggs nor Flesh nor any thing else that ever had life in it only Saturdays and Sundays they are allowed them to refresh themselves other Feasts and Holydays they do not keep any at all In all these points they rather agree with the Abyssines than the Romans and also in these following viz. That they eat not of unclean Meats that are forbidden in the Old Testament they admit to the Communion young and old without distinction they baptize their Children in the Name of the Holy Trinity they believe the Articles of our Christian Faith they Preach Sing Pray and perform all their Devotion in the Vulgar Tongue that every one may understand it they use for the Interpretation of the Word of God the Writings of John Chrysostom and Gregory Nazianzen they dare not no more than all the other Nations that live amongst the Turks except the Maronites make use of any Clocks to call People to Church in place whereof they have strong wooden Tables or some House-Doors prepared several in each Street whereon they strike several Strokes with a great Cudgel and so call People to Church CHAP. XV. Of the NESTORIANS TOwards the East are other People which esteem themselves Christians and among the rest chiefly the Nestorians called after the Heretick Nestorius who was a Bishop at Constantinople Some of their Priests live upon the Mount Calvaria in the Temple and there are a great many Adherents to this Sect most of them living in Mesopotamia Chaldaea and Assyria but chiefly in the mountainous Country of the Curtans called Carduci by Ptolomy which they almost quite possess and have poisoned with their base and obnoxious Error as if it were by an infectious Air for in passing through I have found many of them in their Cities as Hapril Carcuck Mosel formerly called Ninive They are strong and warlike People but full of Vices and from their Infancy given to robbing They inhabit towards North and East as is before said upon the Armenians and Medes and they are a very ancient People whereof chiefly Xenophon maketh mention under the name of Carducci and are called to this day Curters They speak their peculiar Language which neither the Arabians Armenians nor Turks do understand they are of a Brownish Colour like unto the Surians and Maronites and wear the same Cloth or Habiliments that one cannot readily discern or distinguish one from the other save only by their flesh-coloured Lists in their Turbants The Grand Signior is their Head whom they obey and they are kept and respected very well by the Turks partly that he may not give them occasion for an Insurrection because they are upon the Borders and partly because Mahomet hath charged them to be kind to them before others and that the rather because he had a Friar of their Sect called Sergius for his Tutor who did baptize him and counselled and assisted him to make such Laws and to give them to his Adherents and so you may still see that they agree more than any other Sect with the Saracens For whereas they believe that in Christ according to his two Natures are two distinct persons one of the Godhead the other of the Manhood They will not allow any more than Mahomet the Virgin Mary to to be the Mother of God but the Mother of Christ according to his human Nature They have a Prelate in stead of the Pope whom they call Jacelich They bless and give the Sacrament as the Surians do and use in their Spiritual Services the Chaldean Language else they speak the common of their Provinces viz. in their own Country as is abovesaid their own Language in Chaldea and Mesopotamia commonly the Arabian and Saracen Language So in Assyria beyond the River Tigris where the two mighty Princes the Turk and the King of Persia do border upon one another the Language of the Turks Persians and Medes altho they are quite differing These and other Languages the holy Apostles did understand and in them they did speak on the Day of Pentecost when they received the Holy Ghost as you may read in the Second Chapter of the Acts Verse 5. where it is thus written And there were dwelling at Jerusalem Jews devout men out of our every nation under Heaven each whereof heard the Apostles speak in his own Language wherein he was born as that of the Parthians Medes Elamits or Persians that of those also
that live in Mesopotamia and Judea c. This Sect was rejected and condemned in the Counsil of Ephesus CHAP XVI Of the JACOBITES called Golti IN the Temple of Mount Calvaria also live in the Chapel behind the Sepulchre of Christ another sort that boast to be Christians called Jacobites after Jacob the Heretick who was a Pupil of the Patriarch of Alexandria They pretend to have been first converted to the Christian Religion by the holy Evangelist and Apostle Matthew but they did not adhere to it but fell afterwards into a great many Errors so that in our time they are divided into other Sects and Orders For some have assumed the Order of S. Macharius who with Eutychius did own or believe no more but one Nature in Christ others that of St. Anthony who was an Eremite in the year of our Lord Christ 324 in Egypt Others have their Male Children circumcised but others and the greater part have their Children baptized with Fire and have Crosses made on their Foreheads or Temples according to the words of St. John the Baptist in the 3d. Chapter of St. Matthew V. 11. He that cometh after me shall baptise you with the Holy Ghost and with Fire They live chiefly in Egypt and in other adjacent places They are generally subject unto the Turkish Sultan they speak the vulgar Arabian Language and agree in most points partly with the Abyssines and partly with the Surians We saw many of their Wives go about in the Temple they wear Hats near a Span high which at top have a broad Brim like unto our Bonnets else they are habited like unto the Surians This Heresie was rejected and condemned in the Chalcedonian Council CHAP. XVII Of the Abyssins Priest John called Lederwick Subject unto the King of the Moors THese live at Jerusalem in the Temple of Mount Calvaria just by the Church Door towards the left and have through their Lodging a peculiar way so that without hinderance according to their pleasure they may go in and out and pretend that their King hath made a peculiar Agreement to let his Subjects have Free-ingress and Re-gress According to all appearance they are a Naked People yet for all that they may be Rich and Able they are of a dark brown colour When we spoke to them by an Interpreter they shew'd themselves very kind and friendly and always did give with a great deal of discretion such Answers to our Questions that one might easily conclude that they were of good Understanding and well Instructed and Grounded in their Religion To their King is given in the beginning of his Reign the Sir-name of David which else are called Lederwick and by the Persians Amma to shew and to make known by it that they are derived from the Kingly Race and Stem of David and Solomon and to prove this they alledge the History of the Queen of Saba called Merquerda who as we Read in Scripture came from Rich Arabia with many Camels Laden with Gold Spices and precious Stones to Jerusalem to see the great Wisdom and Glory of Solomon whereof she had heard much When she had been there a good while and in the mean time was got with Child by Solomon and brought him a Son into the World called Meytich she left him at Jerusalem but she returned into her own Country again Many Years after when the Son was grown up and came to his Understanding his Father seeing he had more Sons was perswaded to send him home to his Mother who had a greater Kingdom than he So he did dispatch him and sent along with him the chiefest of his Courtiers and sent him away with a great Train as did become a King When he was come into his Kingdom he entertained these Lords and Gentlemen very Honorably and promoted them before all others to the highest and best places that they might the willinger stay with him But all this would not prevail with them but they grew daily more tired and unwilling to stay longer in these strange and unaccustomed Countries and this encreased daily more and more and at length to that height that they resolved that if the King would not give them free leave they would endeavor to make their escape Clandestinly against the Kings Will to Jerusalem in Judea When this their design came before the King he was very angry and ordered immediately that a Mark should be burnt on their Foreheads that every body might know them and issued a Proclamation That all his Subjects might watch them and if any or more of them that were a going away should be taken they should detain them and send them to him again Now as at this time the Marks did begin and then those had them that were of a great Race so they are retained by their Posterity to this very day as we still see in these times that their Nobility have them on their Foreheads towards the right yet not all for there are some that wear them rather upon their Shields and Arms c. These marks are not all alike for in some you see a Bear a Dragons-Head c. in others a Lyon a Wolf or three crossed Arrows c. because every one hath that made that they give in their Coats of Arms they colour it with an Oil which they call Aâ—aâ—cinte and is brought to them from Greece Beâ—s this Custom they still keep in many things to the Ancieâ— ones of the Jews for they keep the Sabbath for their peculiar Holiday and also they do not eat all sorts of flesh nor any of them that are forbid as Unclean in the Old Testament They pretend that the Holy Apostle Philip hath when he Travell'd with the Chamberlain of Candaces Queen of the Moors to Gaza and Converted him there allowed them this and other things being Born Jews Circumcision they believe unnecessary and that it can neither profit nor hurt a Christian And again Baptism they believe to be necessary wherefore through all his large Dominions they bring their Children to it on the third day and Baptize them yet with Fire in the Name of God the Father the Son and the holy Ghost whom they believe to proceed only from the Father and not from the Son according to the Words of St. Mathew Chap. 3. Vers 11. He shall Baptize you with the holy Ghost and with Fire They take the Oil of Achalcinte dip a Stick into it and lay Frankincense upon it and set it on Fire and so they let some drops fall down which do not hurt the Children being mix'd with the Oil and at last they make a Cross with it upon the left side of their Forehead near unto the Temple They begin their Lent about Easter as the Armenians wherein the Lay-men Eat nothing else but 〈◊〉 Herbs and Pulse but their Priest generally nothing but Bread and Water and so they do every Wednesday and Friday throughout all the Year They Marry also according to the Words of
the Christians that came ashore lest they should go up to Mecha and Medina to ransack and burn them Cap. Walter Payton in the year 1613 found great Hospitality and Ingenuity in some Ports of Arabia Felix nearer the Persian Gulf especially at Doffar a very good Road for Ships and a fair City where the Arabians presented his Crew with Bullocks Sheep Hens Goats Sugar-Canes Plantans and Coco's This Cape stands in 16 degrees 38 min. of N. Lat. and is free from the Turkish Yoke Capt. Edward Heyns anchored before Moha or Mocha in Arabia Felix An. Dom. 1618. the Governour sent him as Presents a young Bullock two Goats Mangoes Limes Cucumbers Water Melons Quinces Rack made of Rice c. He went freely ashore and found it a very neat populous and flourishing Town built of Brick and Stone curiously plaister'd over like Paris two Stories high with flat Roofs and Terrasses on the top whereon they build Summer-houses with Canes and Matts wherein they sleep and receive the fresh Breefes in the great heats They excus'd the Cruelty to Sir H. Middleton laying it on the cruel Governor at that time Of the Ways and Roads between Egypt and Ethiopia IN the month of October an Ambassador of Ethiopia came to Caire with several Presents for the Grand Signior and among others an Ass that had a most delicate Skin if it was natural for I will not vouch for that since I did not examine it This Ass had a black List down the Back and the rest of its Body was all begirt with white and tawny streaks a finger broad a piece The Head of it was extraordinarily long striped and partly coloured as the rest of the Body Its Ears like a Buffles were very wide at the end and black yellow and white Its Legs streaked just like the Body not long ways but round the Leg in fashion of a Garter down to the Foot and all in so good proportion and symetry that no Lynx could be more exactly spotted nor any Skin of a Tyger so pretty this may be the Zembra The Ambassador had two more such Asses which dyed by the way but he brought their Skins with him to be presented to the Grand Signior with the live one He had also several little black Slaves of Nubia and other Countries confining on Ethiopia Civet and other costly things for his Present These little Blacks serve to look after the Women in the Seraglio after that they are gelded The Ambassador was an old man and had the end of his Nose part of the upper and under Lip cut off but was otherwise a shapely man and of a very good presence He was cloathed after the Cophtish fashion wearing a Turban like them and spoke very good Italian which gave me the opportunity of conversing with him He told me his name was Michael that he was a Native of Tripoly in Syria and that he had made three or four Voyages into Christendom That eighteen months before he had parted from Gontar the Capital City of Ethiopia and was so long retarded by the way because of the contrary Winds he met with on the Red Sea by which he came That of an hundred Persons whom he had brought with him of his own Servants and the Slaves he was to present to the Grand Signior thirty or forty were dead If he had come by Land he had not been so long by the way for from Gontar to Schouaquen it is about six weeks Journey and from Schouaquen to Caire forty or fifty days by Camels but he could not take that way because of his Train He told me many things relating to the Kingdom of Ethiopia which I shall here give the Reader an account of But first of the ways of passing out of Egypt into Ethiopia The Merchants setting out from Grand Caire are carried up the Nile against the Stream as far as Monfallot and thence travelling in Caravans first come to Siint and so in order to the following Towns Wack three days Journey Meks two days Scheb three Sellim three Moschu five Dungala five accounted the Metropolis of Nubia then they come into the Kingdom of Sennar From Dungala they travel to Kshabi three days Journey Korti three more Trere three Gerry one Helfage one Arbatg three Sennar four From Sennar in fourteen days they arrive at the Confines of Habessinia the Entrance is called Tshelga The passage by Sea is various for the Merchants embark in several Ports on the Red Sea as Suesso Gidda Alcossir and so coast it to Suaquena and Matzua The safest way of travelling into the Kingdom of Prester John is with some Metropolitan or Ambassador Some land at Baylar a Port belonging to the King of Dengala in amity with the Habessins but the Journey thence by Land is tedious and infested by the Gallons 'T is but three months travel by Land from Grand Caire to Gontar the chief City of Ethiopia Of Ethiopia By Michael of Tripoly Ambassador from the Habessine Emperor to the Grand Signior EThiopia or the Country of the Abyssins called in Arabick Abesch from whence comes the word Abyssin is a great Empire being above seven months travel in circuit On the East side it is bordered by the Red Sea and Zanguebar on the South with Zeila Avousa Naria c. On the West by the Country of the Negros and Nubia and on the North with the Country of Nubia and Bugia because to come from Ethiopia into Egypt one must cross Nubia down the Nile About an hundred years ago Greyu Mahomet King of Zeila of which the Inhabitants are all Moors invaded Ethiopia and forced the King to save himself on a Mountain from whence he sent to demand assistance of the King of Portugal who immediately sent it him but hardly was he who commanded these Auxiliaries enter'd the Country when he resolved to return back again finding that they ate raw Flesh there However his Brother Don Christopher had more Courage and would not return without doing some Exploit He marched up into the Country with about Three hundred Musqueteers fought vanquished and killed the Moorish King and then re-established the lawful King of Ethiopia For reward of which Service the King of Ethiopia gave Lands and Estates to all the Portuguese that stayed within his Dominions and their Offspring are still in that Country The Father of this present King was a Catholick but he dying some thirty odd years ago the Queen his Wife who was a great Enemy to the Jesuits and no Catholick and who suffer'd impatiently that they should govern as they pleased the late King her Husband wrought upon her Son that succeeded him to persecute all the Roman Catholicks in such a manner that the Jesuits were obliged to make their escape and he put to death all the Capucins whom he found Since that time three Capucins more were put to death at Schouaken for the King of Ethiopia knowing that they had a mind to come into his Kingdom sent to the
Mountains and good Castles Damoud Tegre and Barnegas Besides there are several Provinces governed by Princes who are Vassals to the King of Ethiopia In short the Kingdom of Ethiopia comprehends twenty four Tambours or Vice Roys The capital City is called Gonthar and is in the Province of Dambia Ethiopia as the Ambassador told me is as cold as Aleppo or Damascus only the Countries near the Red-Sea and the Country of Sennar are hot The King of Ethiopia has above an hundred Wives and keeps no Eunuchs to look after them because they look upon it as a Sin to geld a man so that the Women have the same liberty there as in Christendom He is a King of very easie access and the poorest have the freedom â—o come and speak to him when they please He keeps all his Children on a Mountain called Ouhhni in the Province of Oinadaga which is a Mountain two days Journey distant from Gonthar there is a place like a Cistern on the top of the Mountain into which they are let down every night and taken up again in the day-time and suffered to play and walk about When the King dyes they chuse out one of the wittiest of them and make him King without any regard to Birth-right and when he comes to have Children he sends his Brothers Prisoners to some other place and places his Children at Ouhhni The place where the Kings are buried is called Ayesus and is a kind of Grott where the Aged are laid in one side and the young in the other Heretofore there was a Church there of the same name in time of the Jesuites and in the same place there is a Library The Ambassador assured me that he had been in that Library and I fancy it is the old Library of the Ancient Ethiopians Ethiopia is a good and fertile Country producing Wheat Barley c. The greatest Desarts of it are not above three or four days Journey over and nevertheless when the King makes any progress he lodges in Tents The Houses of the great Lords are like those of Caire that is to say very mean in respect of the Houses of Europe and the rest are only of Mud. The Country affords men of all Trades except Watch-makers They have no Camels there but Mules Asses Oxen and Horses All the People of this Country eat raw Flesh except the King who has it dress'd and drinks Wine of Grapes the rest drink only Wine made of Millet or Sarasin Wheat but as strong as ours and Brandy made of the same Grain They are cloathed after the fashion of the Franks and wear Cloath Velvet and other Stuffs imported to them by the Red-Sea They have Harquebusses from the Turks and of those People there are not above three or four hundred who serve in the Wars with Harquebusses In Trading they make no use of coyned Money as the Europeans do but their Money are pieces of fifteen or twenty Pies of Cloth Gold which they give by weight and a kind of Salt which they reduce into little square pieces like pieces of Soap and these pass for Money They cut out that Salt upon the side of the Red-Sea five or six days Journey from Dangala as you go from Caire and the places where they make it are called Arho Among them is the Nation of the Gauls whom in Ethiopick they call Chava and are a Vagabond people in Ethiopia as the Arabs are in Egygt These Gauls are rich in Cattel and are alwaies at wars with the Ethiopians They have no Harquebusses nor other Fire-Arms but make use of Lances and Targets After all they speak so mâ—ny different Languages in Ethiopia that the Ambassador said to me If God hath made seventy two Languages they are all spoken in Ethiopia I asked his Excellency if he knew any thing of the Source of the Nile and this he told me concerning it The Head of Nile is a Well that springs out of the Ground in a large Plain where many Trees grow this Fountain is called Ouembromma and is in a Province called Ago It makes that a very delightful place casting up Water very high in several places And this Ambassadour of Ethiopia assured me that he had been above twelve times with the King of Ethiopia to spend several days about that Fountain which is twelve days Journey from Gonthar More Observations of Ethiopia by Father Lobo Father Alvarez Father Tellez and others extracted from their Portuguese Voyages THE Rains begin to fall in June and continue July August and part of September which make the Nile swell and overflow in those Months Father Tellez says the Mountains of Habessinia are much higher than our Alps and Pyrenean Hills these render the Country more temperate and healthful and make that torrid Climate tolerable to the European Bodies There is plenty of good Springs and Herbage In the midst of the Plains there rise up many steep Rocks of wonderful Figures and Shapes on the tops whereof are Woods Meadows Fountains Fish-ponds and other conveniencies of Life The Natives get up to them by Ropes and crane up their Cattel These are like so many Fortresses which defend the Natives against the sudden Incursions of barbarous Nations on all sides This Kingdom abounds with Metals but they neglect to work them lest Turkish or other Invasions should follow if such Baits were discover'd Their Winter is from May to September the Sun then passing and repassing perpendicular over their Heads During this Season once every day it rains Torrents and thunders most violently which are accompanied sometimes with sudden and furious Hurricanes The Jesuits residing in the Province of Zambea observ'd both the Poles the Antarctick higher with his cross Stars In this tract of Heaven there is as it were a Cloud or Blot full of little Stars as our Via Laclea The Animals of this vast Kingdom are the Hippopotamus or River-horse which makes great devastation in their Plantations Crocodiles Rhinocerots Elephants Lyons Tygers Panthers Camelopardalus Gazels Zembra's Civet-Cats great varieties of Monkeys Apes and Baboons Ostriches Cassowars Turtles Locusts in prodigious numbers The ordinary Trees are the Date Coco Tamarind Câ—ssia Oranges Musa or Plantane Cotton-Trees with many others peculiar to the Climate and Region In one year they will have three several crops of Rice Millet Tef-Seed their common Food ten times less than Mustard-Seed of Wheat and other European Grain yet the Locusts often devour all and bring on Famines They make a Drink of Honey burnt Rice Water and a Wood call'd Sardo They have no Mills but grind all their Grain with the Hand Great Caravans pass up and down the Country to and from the Sea-Ports with Merchandise In many places the Towns and Villages are extreamly thick and very populous Snow sometimes lies on the high Mountains of Ethiopia especially those called Semam and Salleat or the Jews Hills This part of Africk called Habessinia is much the highest of that Quarter of the World the great Rivers
chiefly for Persons of Quality where they may wash themselves apart from others without any disturbance Besides these there is still another Room where there is a very great Marble Trough in which every one may wash himself after his Sweat there are several Pipes laid in it that you may temper your Water according to your own desire All these Rooms are heated with the same Fire and the Turks and Moors which two Nations have almost the same Religion and Ceremonies go into them very frequently but chiefly the Women which flock to them in great numbers for they never meet any where else but here and at the Graves of their Relations wherefore they keep these sumptuous Buildings the like whereto are hardly any where else found in very good repair As soon as you come into the Hot-house and are grown a little warm one of the Servants which are generally black Moors meets you and lays you backwards down upon the Floor and stretcheth and snaps all your Joints after such a manner that they crack again then he kneeleth down upon your Arms which he puts upon your Breast one over the other and holds them so for a good while together with his Knees then he bendeth forwards and stretcheth with both his Hands keeping you still like a Prisoner under him your Head upwards So it happened once when some of us went in together and were treated by the Moor after this manner that he sprained the Neck of one of my Companions so that he could not turn his Head in several Days after it when this is done he turns you round upon your Belly toucheth and stretcheth your Joints again in such a manner as if he did malax a Plaister at length he stands upon your Shoulder-blades and bending himself down he rubs you all over your Back with his Hands then he lifteth you up and goeth away Then when you lay your self down to rest you or to sweat he maketh a Paste to take of your Hair for they wear no Hair upon their Body saving only their Arm-pits he taketh Quick-lime by the Arab's called Rils and a little Sarnick Arsnick that is Orpiment powders them and mixeth them with Water and anoints your Hair with it and looks very often after it until he finds that the Hair begins to come off then he washeth it perfectly off again before it can hurt you when this is done he takes a fine white Cloth dips it in Sope-suds and rubs your whole Body over with it The before mentioned Cloaths are white like unto Cotton but the Threads are harder which the Pilgrims bring with them from Meca being made of the Bark of Trees that bear Bdellium and they make Ropes of them as also of the Fibers of the Leaves of Palm-Trees and of the covering of the Fruit of the same Tree which is of the bigness of a Wall-nut by putting it on a Distaff and so spinning it out Lastly They wash Peoples Heads and mix sometimes with their Lees chiefly for Women an Ash-coloured Earth called Nalun which cleanseth the Head and makes the Hair grow long They have also another Earth called Jusabar which the Women eat frequently so as breeding Women in our Country use to eat sometimes Coals or other things These their Baths are as free to strangers as Germans French and Italians c. as to Moors and Turks but they must have a care not to come into those where the Women are if they will not run the hazard of their Lives But that you may know where the Women are they commonly hang a Cloth over the Door towards the Street that if any Man should intend to go in there when he seeth this he may find himself another entrance Further concerning their Traffick there are in the Town because there is there a very great Deposition of all sorts of Merchandizes that are brought thither from great distances a great many Merchants chiefly French and Italians which have two Wise Understanding and Grave Presidents of which the one that liveth here is a French Man and the other at Alepo a Venetian called Consuls to assist their Country-men with good Counsel They are sent thither by their Government and confirmed and have great Priviledges given them of the Turkish Emperor to let the Merchants with their Commodities lodge with them and to defend them against any assault of the Turks and Moors that they may trade and deal without disturbance These Consuls wear still their usual Habits made of Red Satin Velvet or Damask c. very richly adorned and they bring along with them Taylors Shoe-makers but chiefly their Physicians Apothecaries Barber-Surgeons and Ministers c. and have besides them their Interpreters skilful in the Turkish and Arabian Language chiefly the Consul of Venice because he must stay there but three Years when they are expired the Dogue sends another in his place When the new one is arrived at Tripoli he dare not go on shore before the other gives him a visit of Reception in the Ship To these two Consuls there are given two large Buildings called by them Fondiques situated near two Gates of the City which lead towards the Haven and the Sea-shore that they may the easier send their Goods in and out There are all day long a great many Moors with their Asses that stand waiting for an opportunity to conduct Merchants and Seamen with their Goods in and out These two Houses are large and have abundance of Vaults and Chambers so that there is room enough to lodge both Merchants and their Goods With the French are also lodged those from Genua Florence St. Luck Germans and Dutchmen c. as also with the Venetians those of Candia Corfu c. that are under their Master's Jurisdiction These Fondiques have no more then one large Gate where Janisaries keep watch when their Masters the Consuls go out they are accompanied with a multitude of Merchants and their Servants and they are in great Authority with the Turks and Moors even beyond the Bashaw himself They always take along with them their Janisaries which go before with great and long Cudgels and beat the People out of the way even the Turks themselves The Merchants have daily great Conversation with the Jews for they know a great many Languages and the Prizes of all Merchandizes how to buy and to sell them wherefore they always help to conclude Bargains in Merchandizes pay the Money and give Bills of Exchange wherefore they have their Broakage I have seen chiefly three sorts of their Silver Coins viz. Aspers Medin and Saiject which are very good and pass through all Turky When great Sums are paid they do not tell the whole but only part of it and weigh it and so take the rest proportionably by the same weight Of Gold Coins they have only Ducats which are made of fine Gold and are very limber besides these you hardly see any other Coins but Venetian Ducats French Testons Joachims Thalers of which
suppose And this is no Disgrace to them but rather reputed to be an Honour because they conclude from thence that those that keep many Wives behave themselves diligently according to their Laws Wherefore they sooner trust them prefer them before others in Places and Salaries and esteem them to be true Tschelebiis that is Noble-men Although these and other Turks have several Wives that are not all equal in their Birth and Extraction yet they all have in Family Affairs their equal share and power and they all are equally provided for with Meat Drink Cloaths c. and they have also their Work and Business equally among them And that because they bring their Husband no Portion but he must rather buy them from their Parents sometimes for a considerable Sum of ready Money and give them Cloaths and other Necessaries to boot Wherefore the Matrimonial tye which they call Chebia is more in the power of the Husband than the Wife so that he may Marry one three times and reject her again but further he must not go except he will be accounted a scandalous base Fellow As you may perceive by the words of the Turkish Emperour Bajazet which he did send to Temyry who is also called Tamerlan saying that he had better to take a Wife again after he was three times divorced from her than to go to War with him which scornful Language he might well have forborn For Tamerlan did not only beat him in a cruel and bloody Battle but took him Prisoner and carried him about in an Iron Cage like a Wild Beast of the Forest But that I may return from whence I digressed the Marriages of the Turks are never look'd upon to be ratified before they are married by one of their Priests Their Wives must agree together and live peaceably and amicably and must not resist their Husbands except he maketh inequality among them If any should appear which happens very often they do not forbear to complain of their Husband to the Cadi or Judge So that daily very strange Transactions which are not strange to him come before him If so be that the Husband is convicted and the Wife absolved they are divorced immediately in the same hour The Turkish Women are pretty handsom and well shaped very Civil in their Discourses and other Behaviour When any of them is married and carried to her Bridegroom's House their Relations go along with her that are invited to the Wedding and begin to make a noise immediately in the Streets and extol their Voices more and more as they go along that you may hear them a great way off The Turks that are of some Condition and rich and able Men have at their Weddings several Diverting Shews in the Day-time they have Dancing Running Actings Singing Jumping and Leaping and Dancing on the Ropes c. After Sun-set and at Night they let off Rockets and Fire-works of several sorts made artificially These are let off in publick and open places that every one may see them and they last often till break of Day The Rope-dancers have three Ropes one above the other whereof the uppermost is the longest upon every one of them they have their peculiar Lessons which they perform exactly and dexterously with Dancing Jumping Running Gesticulating going upon Stilts c. which is pleasant to look upon Their Children when they are married soon forget their Parents they dare not see them again in a great while nor do they desire to do it When they have Children born they do not justly Circumcise them on the Eighth Day but let them be 8 9 or 10 Years old until they can make their Confession There are some chiefly among the Arabians that imitate their Patriarch Ishmael who was not circumcised until the Thirteenth Year of his Age. It is commonly performed in the House of their Parents If Rich Mens Sons are circumcised they make a Feast and roast a whole entire Bullock into his Belly they put a Wether and into his Belly a Pullet into the Pullet's Belly an Egg and so they roast them all together what remaineth they give to the Poor When the Children grow up and begin to go they cloath them in loose flying Coats of fine Stuff woven of several colours which are pleasant to look upon and they put upon the Heads of those that are not yet circumcised coloured Caps which are wrought with Flowers and very common to be sold in their Batzars After they are circumcised they begin to wear white Turbants which are made of Cotton and rolled about their Caps after a peculiar manner and are commonly Twenty Yards long They have still another strange Custom which Young and Old Men and Women use in these Countries viz. They make a thin Paste of Galls and calcined Copperas to beautifie themselves and to keep their Eyes from Rheums with it they blacken their Lips and make a Ring round about their Eyes in the same manner as our Ring-doves have about their Necks These Paintings they have had Anciently and some of them they have prepared of Stibium or Antimony Of these Paintings of the Eye we read in several places chiefly that I may not mention others in the 23 d. Chap. of Ezekiel the 40 Verse where the Lord says by the Prophet And lo they came for whom thou didst wash thy self paintedst thy Eyes and deckedst thy self with Ornaments Concerning the Education of their Youth they only learn in Schools to Read and to write the Arabian Alphabet the Characters or Letters whereof are common both to the Turks and Arabians although their Languages are very differing Besides these there are other Schools wherein the Young Men are Instructed in the Emperour's Laws and those that go on in their Learning and take it well are soon called to high Offices as Cadi's and Cadileschiers But in Liberal Arts and Sciences such as we teach in our Countries they are not Instructed for they have not only none of these Learned Men but esteem learning of these Sciences a Superfluity and loss of Time they rather love old Rhimes and Ballads that speak of and commend the Mighty Deeds of their Ancient Emperours and other Champions or other Fancies that make Foreign Nations or any of their Enemies ridiculous And such things they put either themselves into Rhimes or else hear those that have been put into Rhimes by others already which they say daily with peculiar Actions out of Town in pleasant Greens where also other Divertisements are performed with Singing Dancing Leaping c. So that they are rather pleased with the Reading of these frivolous silly Writings than to learn Arts and Sciences Which you may evidently see in that they do not esteem nor will admit of that Noble Art of Printing Books that might inform them in any thing Which the Clerks whereof there is a great number up and down in the Cities like very well because they daily take a great deal of Money for the Writings of their
Prophet Mahomet and others which maketh them generally very Rich and wear greater Turbants than the rest that they may be distinguished from others Their Paper is generally smoothed and glazed and they comprehend their Letters in very few Words When they will make them up they fold them up until they come to be no broader than an Inch the outward crevise of the Paper they fill all along with Wax within and so glue it as it were to the other or else they take any other Paste made for that purpose and so imprint their Name upon it with their Seal that is done over with Ink so that nothing remaineth white but the Letters These Seals are generally made at Damasco where the best Artists live that cut in Steel and they put nothing more in it but their Name They do not make any use of Paper that is writ on although they have great quantity thereof neither to put things up in nor for any other use and yet if they find any of it in the Street they do not let it lye but take it up carefully fold it together and put it into the next crevise they meet with for they are afraid that the Name of God may be written on it Instead thereof the Grocers make use of great Leaves of Colocasia whereof they have great store CHAP. VIII Of the great Trading and Dealing of the City of Halepo as also of several sorts of their Meats and Drinks of their Ceremonies and their peculiar way of sitting down at Meals HAving heretofore treated of the Buildings and Situation of that Excellent Town of Halepo and of the Customs Manners and Offices of the Turks as much as I could apprehend of it I cannot but speak before I leave it of the Dealings and Merchandisings that are daily exercised there which are admirably great For great Caravans of Pack-Horses and Asses but more Camels arrive there daily from all Foreign Countries viz. from Natolia Armenia Aegypt and India c. with Convoys so that the Streets are so crouded that it is hard to pass by one another Each of these Nations have their peculiar Champ to themselves commonly named after their Master that built it viz. Champ Agemi Champ Waywoda Champ Abrac Sibeli Mahomet 's Bashaw and which are kept for them that they may make them their Inns and live in them and to keep or sell their Merchandises according to their pleasure So among the rest of the Nations there are French-men and Italians c. which have also there their peculiar Buildings which as is before said are called Fundiques wherein some live together and others chiefly the Italians that are married live without in Lodgings they have very small Habitations and live sparingly like the Turks In these Champs you meet with several sorts of strange Merchandises before all in Champ Agami where you have all sorts of Cotton-works viz. Handkerchiefs long Fillets Girdles which they roll about their Loins and Heads and other sorts by the Arabians called Mossellini after the Country Mussoli from whence they are brought which is situated in Mesopotamia by us Muslin with these do the Turkish Gentlemen Cloath themselves in Summer There is delicate Tapestry Artificially wrought with all manner of colours such as are sometimes brought over by us From Persia they bring great quantity of an unknown Manna in Skins by the name of Trunschibil which is gathered from a prickly Shrub called by the Arabians Agul and Albagi which is the reason that it is mixt with small Thorns and reddish Chaff This Manna hath Grains something bigger than our Coriander-seeds so that to all appearance it is very like unto our Manna which we gather from the Larix It might also very well be taken to be the same that the Israelites did eat had not God the Almighty fed his People and maintained them Miraculously and Supernaturally But that it falls upon Thorns is also attested by Serapio and Avicen in those Chapters where they treat of Manna which they call Theceriabin and Trangibin and that very learned and experienced Botanist Carolus Clusius saith the same in his Epitome of Indian Plants I found some of these Shrubs that grew about Haleppo which were about a Cubit high which shout out into several roundish Stalks and divide and spread themselves from the Stem into several Sprigs like unto a Flower part whereof were quite over-grown with Epithymum as Thymus used to be and had abundance of long thin and soft Prickles from whence grew out flesh-coloured reddish Flowers that bore small red Cods very like and of the same shape with the Cods of our Scorpioides whereof I have found many at Montpelier wherein are Seeds of the same colour The Root thereof is pretty long of a brown colour its leaves long like unto those of Polygonum of an Ash colour those that grow at the bottom of the Thorns are of a warm and dry Quality The People use the Herb for a Purge they take a handful thereof and boyl it in Water Besides this they have another Manna like unto that that cometh to us from Calabria by the way of Venice and is the concreted Saccarine Exudation of the Ornus Among the rest they also shew costly Stones by the Arabians called Bazaor which are oblong and roundish and smooth without and of a dark green Colour The Persians take these from a peculiar sort of Bucks and use the Powder against mortal and poisonous Distempers There are some that are very like unto these in Form and Figure but not to be compared for Goodness Wherefore a Man must have great care that he be not cheated But there are some Proofs to know whether they are good or no which a Merchant communicated to me as infallible Take Quicklime and mix it in Pouder with a little of this Stone and with Water make them up into a Paste when that is dry grind it if it then remaineth white it is esteemed false but if it turns yellow it is good and brought from Persia They also bring hither Turkey Stones that grow almost only in their Country and their King the Sophy has an incredible Treasure of them together Lately so many of them were brought to us that the Prices fell very much but when the King heard of this he immediately forbid that any should be Exported in seven years time that so they might come to their former Price again which seven years as I am informed are now expired There are also put to Sale many Chains of delicate Oriental Pearls which are for the greatest part taken or found in the Persian Seas near to the Island called Bahare scituated not far from that great trading City of the Turkish Batzora or Balsara From India they bring hither many delicate Spices Cinnamon Spicnard Long Pepper Turbith Cardamoms Nutmegs Mace and China Roots which the Arabians make more use of then of Guajacum and delicate China Cups and Dishes Indico and in very great quantity they bring that
they spread a round piece of Leather and lay about it Tapestry and sometimes Cushions whereupon they sit cross-leg'd Before they begin to eat they say Grace first then they eat and drink hastily and every one taketh what he has a mind to and do not talk much The Rich have fine Cotton-Linnen about their Necks hanging downwards or else hanging at their Silk-girdles which they use instead of Napkins Their Wives or Women do not eat with them but keep themselves in their peculiar Apartments After they have done they rise altogether with a Jerk swinging themselves about which our Countrymen cannot easily imitate till after they have been there a long while for the Limbs are numbed in sitting cross-legg'd so that one hath a great deal to do to bring them to themselves again At last they take up the Leathern Table with Bread and all which therefore serveth them also instead of a Table-Cloth and Bread-basket they draw it together with a String like a Purse and hang it up in the next corner CHAP. IX A Short and Plain Relation of Plants which I gathered during my stay at Halepo in and round about it not without great danger and trouble which I glued upon Paper very carefully BEing I undertook this long Journey chiefly on purpose to see my self those fine Outlandish Plants whereof Authors so often make mention growing in their native Soil and so gain a more clear and perfect Knowledge of them I was very glad to have an opportunity to stay longer than I intended that I might the oftner go out with my Friends and Comrades into the Fields among the Turks and Moors not without great pain and danger of being knock'd on the Head to fetch in more and greater variety of Plants Wherein my Comrade Hans Ulrich Krafft who came into these parts along with me very often hath faithfully and honestly assisted me But having heretofore made mention of the Garden-Herbs and Fruits I will only in this place write of them which grow abroad without the Gardens and that with all possible shortness and begin with the Poplar-Tree as the commonest of all which the Inhabitants still call by the ancient Arabian Name Haur they grow very high in these Countries and abundance of them grow about the Rivolet near Halepo which make very shady Walks underneath in the heat of Summer There is also a peculiar sort of Willow-Trees called Safcaf c. these are not all alike in bigness and heighth and in their Stems and Twigs they are not very unlike unto Birch-Trees which are long thin weak and of a pale-yellow colour they have soft Ash-colour'd Leaves or rather like unto the Leaves of the Poplar-Tree and on their Twigs here and there are Shoots of a span long like unto those of the Cypriotish wild Fig-trees which put forth in the Spring tender and woolly Flowers like unto the Blossoms of the Poplar-Tree only they are of a more drying quality of a pale colour and a fragrant smell The Inhabitants pull of these because they bear no Fruits great quantities and distil a very precious and sweet Water out of them very comfortable and corroborating to the Heart The Arabians call these Trees Zacneb and Zacnabum Rhases in 353 d and Avicenna in his 749 th Chapt. And after the same manner maketh Serapio mention of them in his 261 st Chapt. by the common Name of Zucumbeth and Theophrastus in his Fourth Book and Eleventh Chapter where he treats of Elae-agnus which this is very like unto and may be taken for the same although they differ in bigness which often and easily happens according to the soyl and place where they grow Hereabout are other small Trees which I rather take to be thorny Shrubs they are very like in leaves unto the others and are called by the Moors Scisesun They love to grow in moist places and in Hedges from the Root shoot several Stems cloathed with a smooth brown-colour'd Bark they bear at top pretty long and strong Twigs which here and there are beset with a few Prickles whereon grow small Flowers white without and yellow within whereof three and three sprout out between the Leaves I did not see any of their Fruit but yet I do believe that they are like unto the Olives of the Bohemian Olive-Tree to which this Plant is very like which is very naturally delineated in the Herbal of the learned Matthiolus These Trees cast forth such an odour in the Spring that any body that goes by must needs be sensible of it presently Wherefore the Turks and Moors cut many of their Branches and stick them up in their Shops On the Banks of the above-mentioned Rivolet chiefly about the Stone-Bridge as you travel to Tripoly grow many Agnus Castus's of the lesser sort and on the other side in the Fields many Pistachia Nut-trees Within and without the City grow also many sorts of Trees viz. that which Avicen calleth Azedarack but Rhases Astergio white Mulberry-Trees Date-Trees and Cypresses by the Natives called Sacub which hereabout grow very big and high Turpentine-Trees c. About the Fences and Hedges you will find wild Pomgranate-Trees with fine double Flowers wild Almond-Trees the Fruit whereof the Moors carry about in great plenty to sell to the Poor and near it in old decay'd Brick-walls and Stony places you shall see Caper-bushes Among the rest there groweth a very strange Bush by the Inhabitants called Morgsani which is very green and thick hath a long Woody Coat whereout sprout several Stalks with round Leaves like unto Caper-leaves only with this difference that four of them stand together all opposite to one another like unto our Beans between them there appear small Flowers red within and white without whereout grow long Pods like unto these of the Sesamum This Plant hath a very unpleasant scent wherefore the Inhabitants use it frequently to destroy Worms But what the Ancients formerly called it I know not but really am of this opinion it must be according to the description the Ardifrigi of Avicen and Aadician of Rhasis he that pleaseth may read more thereof in the quoted places In these places is also found the thorny Acacia by the Inhabitants called Shack and by the Arabians Schamuth which are very small and low chiefly these that stand in the Fields which give as much trouble to the Plowmen as the Ferns and Rest-harrow do here the Twigs are of an Ashen-colour crooked full of Prickles like unto those of a Rose-bush and have very small-feather'd Leaves like unto Tragacantha which are almost divided like unto our female Fern the Flowers of them I have not seen but the Cods that grow out of them are without brownish in their shape thicker and rounder than our Beans spongy within and containing two or three reddish Seeds I have besides these seen in Shops Pods of a Chestnut-brown colour sold under the name of Cardem which have two or three little distinct Cells or Baggs in each whereof is
whereof he maketh mention in his Index where he interpreteth the Arabian words For a kind of this may also be taken because it affords a delicate purple colour that Alga that is found in the Seas near Candia and is described by Theophrastus in his Fourth Book and Seventh Chapter Lastly Among the rest I did also enquire after the Amomum and thought because they were near unto the Confines of Armenia that therefore they might easily have it by the Caravans which come daily from those parts yet I was forced to run a great while after it till at length I got a little Stalk thereof in one Shop They call it by the name of Hamama But of the other so called by Dioscor which is like unto it and therefore may easily be taken for the right one they had a great deal These two small Shrubs although they are very like to one another yet for all that they may be distinguish'd by their Stalks and different colours Wherefore Dioscorid bids us if we will not be imposed upon to pick out the bigger and smoother with its noble Seed and to leave the small This Stalk which I found about the length of a Finger is almost of the colour of the Bark of the Cinnamon-tree and also in its acrimony and good odour although it was old still very strong At the top had been several woody Stalks close to one another whereon I believe had been the Flowers and Seeds But the Twigs of the other sort which are crack'd and bended are of a brown colour which at the top divide themselves into other less ones like a Tree whereon grow several Stalks with little Heads like unto the Masaron or Marum Syriacum from Crete wherein is no great strength nor odour Thus much I thought convenient to mention of strange Plants chiefly of these the ancients make mention of and so I conclude the first part of my TRAVELS Here endeth the First Part. THE SECOND PART OF THE TRAVELS OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff INTO The Eastern Countries Wherein is treated of his Journey from Halepo through the famous Town of Babylonia to Badgee what he saw by the way and what did befal him in going and coming by Water and by Land With a brief account of the high Mount of Libanus of the strange Plants and Inhabitants thereof THE SECOND PART OF THE TRAVELS OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff INTO THE Eastern Countries Wherein is treated of his Journey from Halepo through the Famous Town of Babylonia to Bagdet what he saw by the way and what did befal him in going and coming by Water and by Land VVith a brief Account of the high Mount of Libanus of the strange Plants and Inhabitants thereof CHAP. I. How I departed from Halepo to the Famous City of Bi r and how I sailed from thence on the Euphrates to old Babylon AFter I had stay'd a good while in Halepo and had seen and understood the Trade and Merchandices of the Inhabitants together with that of all the other Nations viz. Grecians Armenians Georgians Arabians Persians and Indians which come and go daily with their Caravans and very well observed and understood their Manners and Customs and had also Collected a fine parcel of foreign and undescribed Plants I resolved to go farther Eastward into Mesopotamia Assyria and Babylonia c. as the ancientest and most fruitful Countries that ever were where the ancientest People and the most Potent Monarchs did inhabit But these Countries lying far off and the Way that leadeth thither passing through vast Desarts and Wildernesses and therefore the Voyage being so much the more difficult and dangerous to attempt and accomplish I first look'd out for a trusty Companion to take as my Assistant and met presently with an experienced Dutchman that had lived a great while in Halepo who granted my request being as desirous to go this Voyage as my self to go along with me We agreed presently and began to consider which was our best Way to take But that we being Strangers might not be taken to be Vagabonds or Spies they being very suspicious from whence they might presently take occasion as the Turks use to do to lay great Avarias or unjust Taxes upon us which the Christians that deal to these Parts have often to their great Loss and Damage experienced we did consider and found that the Trading here was very great so that they did not only deal from hence into Armenia Egypt and Constantinople for from thence come the Caravans through Natolia in about a Months time but also very much into Persia and India Wherefore we thought best to profess our selves Merchants that so we might Travel the more safely with other Merchants in order thereto to buy some Merchandices that would Sell in those Places and to carry them along with us That we might put this in execution my formerly mentioned Friend Hans Vlrich Raft from Vlm took great Pains to furnish me at my Desire and Request with several fit Commodities for those Places upon account of my Patron Mr. Melchior Manlich which I got pack'd up immediately to go with them to the Famous City Bagdet situated upon the Tigris where is a great Staple and Deposition of Merchandices that are to go farther for Persia and India But seeing that seldom any Merchants go from Halepo further into these Countries so that our Habits are very rarely seen there we cloathed our selves as is usual in the common Turkish Habit that every body might not presently look upon us as Strangers first we had long blue Cabans which are button'd before quite down and cut out about the Neck not unlike to those of the Armenians and white Drawers made of Cotton that hung down to our Ankles and were drawn in and tied about our Bodies and also Shirts after the same Fashion and without Collars We also fitted our selves with white Turbants with a blue Brim such as Christians usually wear and put on yellow Shooes which were painted before guarded with Nails and with Horse Shooes behind Besides this we put on a kind of a Frock made of a certain course Stuff called Meska in their Language which is common among the Moors They are generally made of Goats and Asses Hair pretty narrow without Sleeves and short reaching only to our Knees But these Stuffs being not all alike the finest thereof chiefly that which is striped white and black is taken for Cloaths and the courser for Tents and Portmantles wherein they carry their Provision through the Desarts and also keep their Camels and Mules meat hanging it about their Necks This puts me in mind of the plain cloathing which the ancient Inhabitants of these Countries chiefly the Israelites when they mourned for their deceased Relations or when they repented of their committed Iniquities and turned from them and prayed God to forgive them their accumulated Transgressions used to put on as we read in the 37th Chapter of Genesis where Jacob lamented the Death of his Son Joseph
to their Opinion is quite surpassing that which is prescribed in their Law to move the People the sooner regarding their severity in living their great Patience and frequent Ecstasies to believe them that they under pretence of Piety may go on in their hoggishness uncleanness and robberies as they do without any controuling Yet because their idle Hypocrisie and great Rogueries do daily appear more plainly not without great Damage to the Country therefore they are no more in so great esteem nor have so much given them as formerly Concerning their strange way of Praying chiefly that of the Moors their own People have often told me that because such a Devotee changed his natural Voice given by him God into an unnatural one therefore he ought rather to be accounted a Beast than a Man and consequently much less ought to be esteemed a Divine Thus much I thought convenient to relate here of their Mendicants that travelled with us and now I come to my former purpose again After we had spent four Days in drying our Merchandices and in mending our Ships we did load them again and so set out the next Friday being the 3d. of September about Noon All that Day we saw nothing but Bushes on both sides of the River wherein were several wild Beasts but above all wild Boars till Night when we came in sight of a little Village about two or three Miles distant upon the ascent on our left Hand where we landed and stayed all Night In that place I found nothing but a bastard Camel's Hay which was like unto the true one but without any Virtue in it The next Day our Navigation proceeded very well and at Noon we came to a strong Cittadel call'd Galantza which is situated at this side of the River on a Hill belonging to the King of Arabia with whom the Turkish Emperor as I was informed and could understand that did not know their Language well had long and heavy Wars and could have done him because he could not follow him through the Desarts for want of Water and Provisions no great hurt if the King 's Eldest Son had not put himself into this Castle believing that he might be secure there from any Assault from without wherein he was mightily mistaken For after the Sultan did understand that he was there he was resolved to take it notwithstanding all Difficulties And therefore he summoned all his Forces together in the Year 1570. and did Assault it in three Places at the same time so long and so often until at length he took it by Storm and so he made the King's Son his Prisoner and carried him to Constantinople where he had as they say his Head cut off the following Year This Castle being surrounded with strong Walls and having within a very high and large Tower is still according to my Apprehension very strong but yet it lieth in ruins and the three open places remain unrepaired At Night we landed in a small Island which was not inhabited and in the middle of the River we did not question but we were there very well secured from the Arabians and yet notwithstanding as soon as we had supp'd and began to go to rest some of them came creeping along to us about Midnight rather to visit our Goods than us But because they durst not venture to go to our Ships without great danger of being discovered by our Watch they did visit them that rested on shoar and had taken something considerable from them if they had not been discovered immediately by them and had retaken from them again that which they could not so readily carry over the River The Fifth Day of September some Arabians appeared on shoar early in the Morning by and by we saw more at a great Distance upon the height and some Squadrons of Horse of Forty or Fifty strong ride about from whence we concluded that the King's Camp was not far off which proved to be true For about Noon after we landed the King 's Youngest Son came riding to us on a high black Horse with a Retinue of about Hundred Men most of which had Bows and long Pikes made of Reed He was but young about Twenty Four or Twenty Five Years old of a brownish Colour and had a white Turbant on his Head made of Cotton one end whereof hung down behind about a Span long according to their usual Custom He had on a long Gown made of ordinary Sheeps Skins with the Wooll on them which hung down to his Ankles and so had all his Courtiers which were in their common Dress so like unto one another that one could not have discerned them if his had not been edged with some Gold Lists as we use to edge Childrens Coats in our Country about the Neck and Sleeves and had not had long Sleeves whereon were some Escutcheons to be seen Because Custom is due to the King of Arabia by reason of the Euphrates therefore this Young Prince came to demand and take it so he went into the River and rode first to the Turkish Ship to see what Goods they carried but finding nothing but Corn therein he did not stay long there but came to ours his Servants that were on purpose ordered for that helped him soon up into it and placed him in the middle of it on a Bale but they themselves went about from one Merchant to another to visit their Goods and did open now and then a Chest or a Bale and took some out of them more or less according as they liked them so that it was a great while before they came about from Merchant to Merchant In the mean while they brought also into the Ship a Young Prince perhaps two Years old which one carried before him on Horse-back after his Father He had nothing on but only a Cotton Shirt and Rings about his Neck Wrists and Legs made of fine Arabian Gold At length his Servants came to me and my Comrades into the Poop of the Ship but before we began to shew them any of our Goods they saw my Gun that was in-laid with Ivory which they took immediately to shew it to their Master with a great deal of Admiration being such a one as they had never seen in their Life before The King took it presently into his Hands and was mighty well pleased with it and said that it was Outlandish-Work made by the Franks by which Name they call Outlandish-Men French German Italian c. because they know no Divisions or Distinctions of our Country so we went both to him and acquainted him that we were lately come from those Countries with an Intention to go into the Indies After the King understood this he spoke very kindly to us and bid his Man to leave off and to search no more our Goods and enquired after several other things and at length he told my Comrade that he thought he had seen him before Which was very true for when my Comrade lived
Religion shall be hereafter mentioned in the Chapter of the Abissines Further I was informed at my return that after the Decease of Gamach the King of Persia that had three Sons and one Daughter who was soon married to one of the chiefest of the Council at Court whereof the Eldest called Alschi was beheaded because he did endeavour to take away his Father's Crown the other two are still in being the youngest of them Balthasar liveth in Parsid a peculiar Province and Town in Persia which lieth on the Borders of the Indies and the middlemost called Ismael was lately after his Father's Decease elected King almost at the same time when the now reigning Turkish Emperour Amurathes came to the Crown This is still young and of a tall and slim Body but very manly and full of Courage and well skill'd in all Warlike Exercises so that he dare before any of his Courtiers ride wild and unbroken Horses by them called Aecaik which are not easily mastered They are brought to him a great way off out of the Eastern Parts they are as I am informed of an Ashen colour only some have white Legs in these and other Exercises he hath shown his Manliness from his Infancy But when he did encrease in Age and in Strength the Anger and Displeasure he bore against the Turks did increase also and to that Degree that he resolved during his Father's Life to be reveng'd of them for the wrong they had done to his Ancestors Wherefore a little while agone he brought together a great many Men in the frontier Places to surprize the Town of Bagdet unawares being one of the Chiefest that formerly had belonged to his Ancestors together with the whole Country wherein the new Kings of Persia when they first come to the Government are used to be crowned When he was thus prepared for the Onset and nothing was wanting some Traytors ran away from his Troops and acquainted the Bashaw of Bagdet with his Design so the Bashaw was forced to arm himself with all Speed as well as he could that he might be able to oppose him in his Designs But when the King's Son would have put his Intention into Execution the Bashaw fell upon him unawares with such a Number and Strength that he could not only attempt nothing but was beaten and he himself taken Prisoner Besides this the Grand Turk would have had him to be beheaded if his Father had not with great earnestness taken his part and given him for his Ransom the Town Orbs in Mesopotamia After this the old King had enough to do to keep his Son in safe Custody that he might not begin new Alarms and Wars against the Turks Before I began my Voyage in March in the Year 74 certain News came to Aleppo that 25000 Turks were killed on the Confines of Persia and Arabia but in what Place this Battel was fought and which way it was done I could not learn for if they suffer any Damage they always keep it very close and secret nor any ways hear Wherefore the Turks at that time were a great deal harder towards the Christians so that many suffered for their Misfortunes Sake But if they had obtained the Victory as well as not they would not have been so silent but would have spread it abroad and have related it to others that did not ask them with high and big Words So great an Opinion have the Turks of themselves that they really believe there is no other Nation that can conquer the World so as they although they are not to be compared with the Persians neither for Strength Manliness nor Shape so therefore they could effect but very little against others if it were not for their great Number wherewith they over-power them And to speak only of the Inhabitants of this Town there are so many sick and lame People in it that you would admire to see so many lame and limping ones in the Streets yet the King of Persia cannot hold out the War at length nor keep a War at a great Distance for his Revenue is not so great as to make sufficient Provision for his Officers and Souldiers c. to pay them as well in time of Peace as of War For his Subjects are freed from all Taxes and Impositions according to their ancient Privileges and Customs They never arm themselves for a Defence but when they are called together by their King to defend and protect their Country House or Land Wife and Children against the Assault of an Enemy When I was thus enquiring from one or other and endeavouring to inform my self and learn whether it were more commodious for us two to go by Water to Ormutz or by Land through Persia into the Indies and we thought of nothing else but to begin our Voyage daily to go further I was call'd on a sudden by a Letter to come away for Aleppo immediately which troubled me very much and that the more when I considered that I was passed the Wilderness and come into the fruitful Eastern Countries which would have been very well worth seeing So after I had considered a while I agreed with my Comerade that he should go on with the Voyage in hand and that I because besides the Letter I had others no smaller Hinderances would go back again So I fitted him out for his Voyage with all Necessaries so that two Days after he went with other Merchants into the Ship for Balsara Not long after I had of him a very mournful Message or Account that the Ship wherein he went from Balsara to Ormutz was perished in a great Storm near the Island Baccharis in the Persian Sea where they find good store of Oriental Pearls and that he and several other Merchants and rich Merchants Sons from Aleppo were drowned At the same time I might have returned back again with a great Caravan to Aleppo but because they took the straightest way through great and sandy Desarts which lasted for Fifty Days Journeys or thereabout where we had but two places to pay Custom in where we could buy Provision as Water and other Necessaries I resolved within my self to go by more Fruitful Places and Famous Towns although I went about where I might see and learn something more so I did stay in the great Camp longer until I met with some Companions In the mean time while I stayed there I made my self acquainted with an eminent Merchant that lived in Aleppo and had been several times in the Indies who told me that the Jesuits had begun to set up a very severe Inquisition in the Indies chiefly in God where they observed diligently those that did not take of their Hats to the Images which were set up in several Streets of the Town that they might put them into Prison which he did very much dislike believing it to be very great Idolatry After he had said this he began to talk further to me concerning Religion and chiefly of the Articles
read the Authors of Physick that have writ in another Language as the Jews can But seeing that the Jews are very much addicted to Covetousness they endeavour rather to promote their own Interest than that of their Patients so that the Turks are but slightly provided with Physicians and therefore rather die like Flies than take advise of their Physicians chiefly of the Jews which are not contented with a small Reward to this add also that the Turks never put any Confidence in the Jews and esteem their Counsel but little and besides they believe that God hath already pre-ordained every one his Death so that he that is born to be drowned cannot be hanged And besides all this the Jews do not stick close to them in time of necessity but fly presently and first of all in time of Sickness which certainly happens once in Seven Years if not in Five or sooner just like Hirelings as they have sufficiently experienced in the last Plague in the Year 72 with the loss of several Persons of Worth and Quality chiefly among the rest a Turkish Pay-Master by them called Daftedar and another Eminent Turk and their own Sons which both of them although this proferr'd to lay 3000 Duckets and the other 10000 into the Hands of a third Person yet were neglected and lest by their Physicians and died It is very much in use among them that if any body doth find himself not well another puts his Arms cross before him and so graspeth him about his Back and lifteth him up and sets him down again and shaketh him several times just as they use to do Sacks with Corn to make them lie the closer and to hold the more As the Physicians are so are also the Apothecaries where you find nothing of any great Compositions nor purging Electuaries as Elect. Diacatholicon Diaphoenicon c. although they have the best Ingredients thereof for we have them all sent from them except they be sent to them from Marseilles or Venice c. If you have occasion for any Herbs Roots or Seeds c. you must go your self not without great trouble and losing of time and find them either in the Fields or else at the Grocers and other Shop-keepers Among the rest of the things they had I soon knew the Rob Ribes by its ancient Name and pleasant sourish Taste whereof they make a great quantity in this place and send it further into other Countries but chiefly to the Turkish Emperour wherefore in the Easter Week they had already gathered several Sacks full of the Stalks of the true Ribes of the Arabians which are hairy almost two Foot long and of the thickness of an Inch of a greenish colour and underneath as also Serapio mentioneth reddish from the Mount Libanus and brought it to the Cadi to make Rob of it for him I saw them lie in his Court-yard and several of them were given me to taste and to take away with me What Herbs I found at my return else because there are but a few of them therefore I have put them among the rest here-above in a peculiar Chapter I saw there several strange Birds and among others some of a delicate green and blue colour which were about the bigness of our Nut-crackers by them called Sucuruck and by others Alsecrach I also found their Alhabari which are not unlike our Peacocks and almost as big and could not fly much Of four-footed Beasts I saw seveveral and among them some Civet-Cats which were brought thither in Caravans from remote Parts and the Indies In the Fundique of the Consul of the Venetians I saw a very sharp sighted one like unto a Lynx exactly of the shape of a Cat so that it was not easily distinguished from it save only in its bigness for it is much higher and slimmer This is a very wild and fierce Beasts so that his Keeper himself was afraid of it It once got loose and got through the Yard below into an Apothecaries Shop wherein he had just then put a great many Glasses that were sent him from Venice whereof it broke the greatest part before it could be taken again When I was there a young Rhinoceros was carried through the Town to Constantinople It came from the most Eastern Parts and had killed above 20 Men before they could take it They also lead daily some Lions about the Town in small Chains which have small Bells before that every body may take the sooner Notice of them they are so tame that their Keepers sometimes wrastle with them in open Places neither do they easily grow wild except they should see Sheep then their Keepers have enough to do to keep them off and to appease them Without in the Fields in high and bushy Places are sometimes found Chamelions which are somewhat bigger than our green Lizards but a great deal leaner and higher upon their Legs they walk very slowly and lazily they live a great while without Meat like the Serpents and are a very ugly Creature If we put it upon a coloured red yellow or black Cloth it hath by degrees changed its natural green Colour into the same that the Cloth was of Having ended my Business I had and in the mean time received a Letter from my Comrades that were at Tripoli I parted from thence according to their desire and came on the 5th of May Anno 75 to them in Tripoli After some Days arrived also with some Goods one of their chiefest Carriers which they call Mokeri which swore to me by his Head that is he affirmed upon his Faith and Reputation that the Sub-Bashaw of Aleppo when he was departing from thence had sent his Bailiffs to my Lodgings to apprehend me and to fling me into the publick Turkish Gaol because they were very well assured that when I was on the Hills where they had seen me look for Plants I had observed the Situation of the Town and all the Country very diligently that I might when I should have an opportunity betray them to their Enemies and shew them the best way to take it But all this was contrived that they might have an opportunity to take an Avaria on me as the Merchants call it there in these Countries that is to say they would accuse me falsly to make me punishable that they might get a sum of Money out of me And the Carrier also really believed for as much as he heard of them that they would not have let me come off for less than 200 Saraffi or Duckets one whereof maketh two of their Gilders Thanks be to our Lord God who hath delivered me from their unjust Accusations and Contrivances and brought me safe to this place At my arrival at Tripoli when I expected to live securely and quietly and thought that I was passed all danger I fell notwithstanding all this into another for when my Comrades and with them also Hans Vlrich Krafft yet without any transgression were flung into the Turkish
Maronites that have lived long before in these Mountains with whom he hath lately renewed the old Confederacy again as I know very well and their Patriarch himself was with him before I was called to cure him of his Distemper He also leaveth no Stone unturned to get in with others and to make them his Confederates so he hath already secured to himself the Syrians which are also Christians yet not without gross Errors by paying to them a yearly Pension These speak also Arabick and are very like unto them in Shape Manners Fashion and Cloaths and I sound two of them among our Seamen that confirmed this to me After we had gone on a great while and were passed by the Point of the Promontory of Baruti which extendeth it self far into the Sea our Ship-Master who was a Turk and understood the Arabian Language shewed me a Village lying beyond it called Burgi and told me that that was also inhabited altogether by Harani Quibir that is great Robbers and Murtherers as they always call these People But I being better informed before-hand I prayed by my self that God would be pleased to let the poor Slaves that live in hard Servitude under the Turks who were these they call Harani and I do not at all question but they would soon take their Refuge to them to make themselves free of their Servitude as those might easily do that live about these Countries in Syria We saw also upon the Shoar some ancient Towers and among them chiefly two which are renewed again wherein the Trusci keep Watches to observe the Pirates but the others whereof there are a great many not above a League distant from one another are for the greatest part by Age decayed Some say that they were formerly built by the potent Emperors that if any Nation should rise up in Rebellion they might immediately give notice thereof to Constantinople These gave notice before Guns were invented in the Night by a flaming Fire and by Day-time by a great Smoak And they still keep to this in many places altho Guns are now invented In the Afternoon we were becalmed and so our Journey went on but slowly we saw late at Night a small Village called Carniola upon the height and soon after at the Foot of the high Mount of Libanus Southward of the City of Sidon by the Inhabitants still called Scida which is not very great but as far as I could see very well built and defended by two Castles one whereof is situated towards the North on a high Rock the other on a little Hill Those that are going to Saphet which is a Days Journey distant from it land there Before we could reach it Night befel us and brought contrary Winds which hindered us so much that we could hardly reach the glorious and rich Town of Tyrus now by the Inhabitants called Sur which lieth in a manner close to it until the next Morning This is still pretty large and lieth on a Rock in the Sea about Five hundred Paces distant from the Shoar of Phenicia In former Ages Alexander the Great did besiege it for Seven Months and during the Siege he filled up the Streight of the Sea and did join it to the Continent and after he had taken it he laid it into Ashes so that Punishment was inflicted on the Inhabitants which the Prophet Esaias denounced against them Four hundred years before On the Confines of Tirus and Sidon that Cananean Woman came to Christ on behalf of her Daughter that was possessed of an unclean Spirit whereof the Lord seeing her Faith did deliver her immediately Just before it we heard a great noise of large running Springs which rise within the Country with so great a vehemency that they drive several Mills Within a large distance from thence we saw a very fine new House called Nacora Two Miles farther near Mount Saron within Southward we saw a large Village called Sib without it in the Sea round about were several Banks and Rocks behind which we hid our selves the Wind being contrary and staid for a more favourable one in the mean while some of our Men got out among the Rocks to catch Fish and to find Oisters where they also gathered so much Sea-salt that they filled up a great Sack with it Between this and Mount Carmelo which are Eight Leagues distant and run out a great way into the Seas lieth almost in the middle thereof as it were in a Half Moon the famous Town of Acon anciently called Ptolemais on a high Rocky Shoar which some years ago when Baldewin the Brother of Gotefrid first and Guidon after him did possess themselves of the Holy Land was not without great Loss of many Men taken by them from Saladine King of the Saracens in Aegypt which had after some obtained Victories surrendered it self again a second time after a long Siege This Town hath very good Fields of a fertil Soil about it and is at this time together with the Land of Promise and others to the great grief of the Christians subjected under the Yoak and Slavery of the Turkish Emperor The next Day the Wind favouring us we hoisted up our Sails and got out at Sea with less danger to get before the Point of the Mountain but our Design was frustrated for about Noon a contrary Wind arose which did not only hinder us in our Course but violently drove us back again so that we were forced to have recourse to our old Shelter behind the Rocks again After Midnight when it began to be calm and another Wind arose we put out two hours before Break of Day and went all along the Shoar towards the Town Hayphe formerly called Caypha or Porphyria Four Leagues beyond Acon lying just within Mount Carmel where on the Evening when we came very near it several Frigats came out of all sides to surround us As soon as the Master of our Ship perceived them he did not like it wherefore he let fall his Sails and exhorted his Men to ply their Oars warmly to get clear of them When they saw they could not reach us they left their Design and went back but we landed without on that Mount Carmelo to put out again in the Night This Mountain is very high and famous in Scripture for we read in the Third Book of the Kings and the Eighteenth Chapter that the holy Prophet Elias called before him upon the Hill the People of Israel the Four hundred and Fifty of Baal's Priests and and the Four hundred of Hayns to chide them for their Idolatry where also God heard him and consumed his Sacrifice by Fire that came down from Heaven but the Priests of Baal were not only not heard by their Idols but kill'd as Idolaters near the River Kison and also in the Fifth of the Epistle of James that after the Heavens had been lock'd up for the space of three years and a half Elias did pray to God on this same Mount and the
Lord heard him and let Rain fall down upon the dry and barren Earth From this Mountain the presumed holy Order of the Carmelites taketh its Name which was first there endu'd with several Priviledges by Pope Innocent the Third and Albert the Patriarch of Jerusalem in the Year 1205 and afterwards when they were encreased to a great number under pretence of greater Holiness confirmed by the Name of the Brothers of our Lady by Pope Honorius the Third in the Year 1226. These pretend to be Followers of the Doctrine of Cyrillus wear daily black girded Coats and over it when they say Mass white Monks Habit. Some years ago without doubt have a great many of this Order lived here about as still to this day doth appear by their Cloisters and Churches which by Age are so mightily decay'd that they are left deserted and uninhabited This Mountain is also round about towards the Sea Coast very bare and rough that we may very well say with the holy Prophet Amos That the Pastures of the Herdsmen shall look miserably and the top of the Mountain dry up The Town Hayphe lieth at the bottom of the Mount Carmelo is pretty large but very ill Built and the Houses are so decay'd that half of it is not fit to be Inhabited Salidinus King of the Saracens who in his time carried on long and heavy Wars against the Christians and was almost hardly able to resist them caused the Walls of it and also that of Caesarea in Palestina and others of less strength to be pull'd down that his Enemies might not find any place of Reception against him Out of this Port as we are afterwards informed was a little time before taken away a pretty large and richly Loaden Ship by some Pirates which vexed the Inhabitants very much and being that the Christians chiefly were suspected by them they had a great desire to revenge it upon them again so that we had not our Master been very honest should have suffer'd for the loss they had sustained After we had lain there at Anchor till after Midnight not without danger as you must imagine our Master made haste to get out to Sea although it was very calm in hopes to get good Weather After they had wrought very hard a good Wind arose behind us towards the Morning and drove us along so that we got soon about and passed the Point of the Mountain and saw the Country of the other side which was above on the height so Pleasant Green and Shady that there in a Village resides a Turkish Sangiach for Pleasure sake Not far from thence lieth the Castle of the Pilgrims in the Sea by the Inhabitants call'd Altlit where most of them touch that take their way through Galilaea and Nazareth to Jerusalem This hath been in former Ages so well Fortify'd with Walls and Bastions that it was thought to be Impregnable but now it is on two sides towards the Sea so demolish'd and destroy'd that one may very reasonably guess that it hath been formerly taken by Storm The Wind still increasing more and more we went on with such a swiftness that although two little Ships persued us towards Morning yet they were forced to leave us and so we soon passed the Castle and came towards Dor three Leagues distance from thence it lieth near Mount Carmel in the Country of Phoenicia as Josephus testifieth and it is so decay'd that there is nothing more extant than a large and high Tower which the Inhabitants still call Dortaite In this Country when the Jews took Canaan the Land of Promise they let the Inhabitants remain as you may read in the first Chapter of the Judges At a League distance from thence you see the Ancient and Famous Town Caesarea of Palestine situated on the Sea on a high Bank which King Herod did renew and call'd it after the Emperor Caesarea which still to this day among the Turks and Moors retaineth its ancient Name Kaesarie In this Town did live the Pious Centurion Cornelius who was Baptiz'd there with his whole Family by Peter the Apostle who was called thither from the Town Joppe There did also live Philip the Evangelist one of the seven Deacons into whose House the Holy Apostle Paul did go and staid there some days where also the Prophet Agabus did foretel him That he was to be made a Prisoner at Jerusalem Now although this Town in those days was very well built as one may still see by the important and stately Antiquities that are still remaining there yet now in our times it is in Walls and Buildings so mightily decay'd that it is hardly fit to be Inhabited much less to be Defended or to make any Resistance And for all that it is still pretty large but so lonesom and depopulated that we could hardly see any body in the large and broad Streets thereof as we passed by For some Leagues before or about it I saw nothing remarkable only a Turkish Mosque or Church in the height upon a hilly shore where tbey meet to Worship their Mahumet When the Evening broke in we had still 10 Leagues to Sail to the Port or Harbor of Joppe where the Pilgrims use to go ashore to Travel by Land to Jerusalem yet the Wind drove us on with such a force that we got into it two hours after Sun-set CHAP. II. A short Relation of my Travels by Land from the Harbor of Joppe to the City of Jerusalem IN the Morning early as soon as the day did appear which was the 13th day of September 1575 we got on shore and dispatched immediately some to the Town of Rama two Leagues distant from thence to get us a safe Conduct or Pass from the Sangiach and to bring along with them some Mockeri or Ass-driving Carriers to provide us Carriage to Jerusalem In the mean while we stay'd upon the high Rocky shore where the Town Joppe did stand formerly which at this time was so Demolish'd that there was not one House to be found where the Pilgrims at their arrival could shelter themselves save only three large Vaults which went very deep into the Hill and extended themselves towards the Sea Into these are sometimes the Pilgrims let in but being that at that time a great deal of Corn was laid up there whereunto they still daily added on purpose to supply Constantinople during the scarcity it was forbidden that any Body should be let in The Town Joppe by the Inhabitants call'd Japha is by its old Name very well known to us by the Books of the Prophets and Apostles c. where we Read That the Prophet Jonas when the Lord bid him to Preach to the Ninevites Desolation and Destruction for fear did retire thither and there took Ship where he was thrown out into the Seas in the great Storm and Tempest and swallow'd up by a great Fish and after he had been there for three Days and Nights he was vomited out again And we
at it and full of Trouble that they should be under his Holiness's Excommunication before they were aware of it wherefore they began to excuse themselves and said That they did not know any thing of it neither had they had any opportunity in their Travels to come to Rome But although this had been omitted before their Arrival yet they would certainly do it as they went back Notwithstanding all this the Guardian seemed to be very earnest and made shew as if he could not absolve them yet at last after he had long enough kept them in this fear he began to declare that he had also received full power from his Holiness and the whole Roman Catholic Church to absolve all those that did not bring any Certificates And so at last absolved us in the Cloisters of his Monastery in Latin with these Words I absolve you of all your Sins in the Name of the Father the Son and the Holy Ghost And with this he concluded his Speech CHAP. III. A Plain Description of the City of Jerusalem as it was to be seen in our time and of the adjacent Countries THE Glorious and Kingly City of Jerusalem which formerly the Saracens called Kurzitadon but now is named Chutz by the Inhabitants is still situated in the old Place in the middle of Judea on the high Mountains and as the Head is extolled above the rest which may be concluded partly because from thence you may see all the the Country as from a Center partly also because the Springs rise here and so run down as from a higher place every way and to every part thereof as the holy Prophet Ezekiel doth testifie in his Fourteenth Capter where he saith That at that time fresh Streams shall flow from Jerusalem half thereof to the Sea toward the East and the other half towards the furthest Sea There are also many other places of Scripture that testifie the high Situation of Jerusalem as in the Eighth Chapter of the Acts Verse 26. where the Angel of the Lord spake unto Philip saying Arise and go towards the South unto the way that goeth down from Jerusalem unto Gaza c. And in the Tenth Chapter of St. Mark and the Thirty second Verse And they were in the way going up to Jerusalem And the Tenth Chapter of St. Luke Verse 30. A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho And Verse 31. And by chance there came down a certain Priest that way c. The Situation of Jericho together with the great Plains thereabout through which the Jordan runs from the North towards the South together with the Dead Sea where formerly Sodom and Gomorrah stood you see from the Town over a barren Hill below so plainly that one would think we might go thither with ease in three Hours and yet it would require a whole Days Journey Beyond the River that separateth Arabia from Judea lie the high Hills Abarim and Nebo over against Jericho whence Moses as is said Deuteronomy the 32d and 34th Chapters had a full Prospect of the Land of Canaan promised to Abraham Isaac and Jacob one may see them thence so plainly as also the Mount Seir which toucheth them beyond the Dead Sea in the Land of the Moabites and Ammonites that one would also think they were very near They bring yearly a vast quantity of Sheep to Jerusalem from off the Mountains which feeding upon the fragrant delicate and hearty Herbs that grow there have Meat that tastes very pleasantly the Tails thereof are very fat above half a span thick and one and a half broad and long The Levitical Priest as we read in Leviticus the Ninth Chapter and other places used to burn this together with all the Fat of the Entrails and the two Kidneys for a Sin-Offering There are also Goats with hanging Ears almost Two Foot long And therefore some Arabians called Balduini keep in the Deserts that have no certain Abode but lie continually in the Fields and go from Country to Country in great numbers wheresoever they find good Pasture for their Beasts and Camels I have met with many of them in my Travels and have some time stayed with them all Night in their Tents they are commonly Soldiers armed usually with Bows and Long-Pikes made of Cane as the other Arabians and because of their Nimbleness and Courage they are very much preferred before the rest This holy Land which according to the Promise made to the Patriarchs was for many years in the possession of the Israelites was as you read in Deuteronomy Chap. 8. a most fruitful and rich Country abounding with Corn Fruits Wine and all that is required to the maintenance of Man's Life So the Lord himself saith That he will give them a Land that still floweth with Milk and Honey For it hath rich Valleys Hills Fields and Gardens richly adorned with Fountains and Trees so that it was very well chosen to be the worldly Paradise wherein Adam and Eve did live honor and serve God Now as the Land in its Goodness surpassed other Lands so did Jerusalem excel all other Cities in Building Glory Fortification and Number of Inhabitants Moreover God visited the Israelites from the beginning and had a House built in this City for himself which he chose before all others to sanctifie his Name there And above all this he provided them with High Priests Kings and Prophets until God the Father did send his only Begotten Son our Lord Jesus Christ in the Flesh to reveal to them his Will with Teaching and Miracles But when they would not acknowledge his merciful Visitation nor receive his Messengers but did rather abuse ridicule and kill them rejected the Lord of Glory himself and adhered to and adored strange Gods and served them God did reject and disperse them among the Heathens burnt and destroyed their City and Temple and reduced their fruitful Country into barren Desarts and a desolate Wilderness and so the Punishment came upon them which the holy Prophet Esaiah did foretel them in the Thirteenth Chapter and 9th Verse saying Behold the day of the Lord cometh cruel both with wrath and fierce anger to lay the land desolate and he shall destroy the sinners thereof out of it And further in the Twenty fifth Chapter and Second Verse Thou hast made of a City a heap of a defenced City a ruine a place of Strangers to be no City it shall never be built And Daniel also maketh mention of this in his Ninth Chapter c. This ought to serve us and all Men as an Example of the fervent Anger of God to be a warning to us for ever For if of the Glorious City of Jerusalem which God had chosen before others and of its vast Buildings that made her famous before her Desolation there is at this Day nothing at all to be seen so that one might very well doubt whether it ever stood there were it not for some holy places and its situation that
give us demonstration thereof If I say this worldly Jerusalem because of its unbelieving Inhabitants that would not acknowledge the Blessed Messias nor adhere to his Doctrine to their Salvation is quite rooted out and instead thereof the way of the Heavenly Jerusalem opened to us Heathens by the holy Apostles How shall we escape if we neglect so great salvation This way to our Lord Christ hath for many years past been shewed us sincerely by the Ministers of the holy Word of God but we do not only not much care for it but seek rather other by ways that lead us to Idolatry Sin and Vices nay to our utter ruine Wherefore it is to be feared that if we do not repeat in time and return to God again that he will come upon us with his wrath as he hath already begun and deliver us up into the Hands of our Adversaries that we may fall by their Swords as Ezekiel doth threaten us in his Thirty ninth Chapter and to punish us according to the Deserts of our Sins Wherefore we ought to lay to heart the terrible Example of the Jews and turn from our evil ways that we may avoid the Punishments that befel them We see that those who were formerly the People of God are now come to be so blind and full of Errors and of so depraved a Life that there is hardly any like them to be found even among the Infidels and Impious Wherefore they are by all Men despised and hated chiefly by the Turks which hate them more than any other Nation so that they would not let them live among them if the Turkish Emperor had not for a great Sum of Money given them a peculiar freedom And besides all this now adays their Towns and Countries are inhabited by Turks Moors and Arabians that do not love to till or cultivate the Ground but will rather starve than take pains to get a good Livelihood by their Hand-Labour And although the Country about Jerusalem is very rocky rough stony and ill managed yet notwithstanding they will not endeavour to mend and improve it but find out the fruitful Lands that are here and there and over-run the Country like Grashoppers so that you may observe it yearly to decay more and more Seeing then that there is but little Tillage about the City therefore the product of the Earth there is but very small so that they must have almost all Necessaries brought them from other places The Town of Jerusalem which is still pretty large but very ill built hath within its Walls which the Turkish Emperor caused to be built about Twenty Years ago large places that lie desolated and are so full of Stones and Rocks that one can hardly walk in them The Gardens even those that are within the City and are but ill managed are surrounded with Mud Walls not above Four Foot high so that one may climb over them without any difficulty These are washed down again by Rain in a very little time so that they want mending continually Their Habitations are also little and and low have Clay-Walls and many of them are decayed some lie quite in a heap The Churches of the two Apostles that of St. John and St. Peter are in the same Condition as also the Prison where St. Peter was kept the Habitation of Veronica which the Cordeliers shew us for them and a great many places more In some Streets chiefly near to their Bazar or Exchange are very old Vaults part whereof are decayed and broken part filled up with Dust which runs out into the Streets wherefore chiefly in the Summer the Dust lieth so thick in them that you may see every step in it as in Snow or Sand. All which sheweth that the Turks destroy or ruin more than they build wherefore they are deservedly called Turks that is to say Destroyers The present Town as to the Extent of its Walls is not much less than the old one was wherefore one should admire considering how it is built now how it was possible it should hold so many People as it is said were in it at the time of its Desolation viz. a Million of Men or as Josephus and Eusebius say Three Millions Jerusalem was formerly surrounded with very steep Cliffs deep Ditches and Valleys chiefly on three Sides towards the South East and West so that one could not easily get up to it but only on the North Side where the Town was low lying in a Plain therefore did Titus first attack it in a place near the Village called Scapas Seven Miles distant from it and afterward advanced and took it which the holy Prophet Jeremiah did foretel many years before in the First Chapter and Twelfth Verse saying Out of the North an Evil shall break forth upon all the Inhabitants of the Land These Ditches and Valleys are now quite filled up with the Ruins of the broken Walls and Buildings so that one may go into the Town as into an open Village without any hinderance or pain But when the Grand Signior after he had taken it saw that the Town was open and that the Christian Pilgrims came thither in great numbers from all places and Countries he feared that they might make themselves Masters of it again as they had done some years agone wherefore he ordered it to be surrounded again with new Walls which although they are very high yet they are so thin and slight that they are not able to withstand the least violence But as the Town was anciently built four square so it is now built more round chiefly towards Mount Calvaria which formerly was without the Town but now is Walled in so that you may still see two corners one whereof is towards Galilee where the Gate of that corner is which is still open and almost one of the handsomest through which you go to Nazareth distant three days Journey as also to Caesarea Philippi which is now called Balbec where still are to be seen some very fine Antiquities and also towards Damascus which is six days Journey distant from Jerusalem and from thence 6 days Journey more to Aleppo the greatest Town for Trade in all Syria Jeremiah maketh mention of this Gate in his 31st Chapter and the 38th Verse Behold the days come saith the Lord that the City shall be built to the Lord from the Town of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner And also Zacharias in his 14th Chapter and in the 2d Book of Chronicles the 26th Chapter and 9th Verse It is said Vzzia built Towers in Jerusalem at the Corner-Gate and at the Valley-Gate c. The second corner Mount Zion maketh where it doth end toward the South whereon as also on the Mount Moriah the City is rising towards the North. The old City had twelve Gates as you read in the Revelation The 1st the Fish-gate which was also called the Gate of Hebron because the Road of Hebron went through it which is about seven or eight
hours walking distant from it 2. The Old-Gate 3. The Prison Gate whereof Nehemiah maketh mention in his 12th Chapter through which our Saviour Christ carried his Cross 4. Rayn-Gate 5. The Gate of Ephraim before which St. Stephen was Stoned to Death as you may read in the 2d Book of the Ecclesiastical History in the 1st Chapter 6. The Gate of Benjamin where the holy Prophet Jeremiah was taken and Imprisoned as he saith himself in the 37th Chapter 7. Corner Gate 8. Horse-Gate 9. Valley-Gate through which they went into the Valley of Josaphat 10. Dung Gate through which the Water carried out all the Soil into the Valley of Josaphat and about this River is still to this day a great stink 11. Sheep-Gate 12. Fountain-Gate which is now Walled up The Prophet Nehemiah maketh mention of them in his 3d 8th and 12th Chapter so that it is not needful to say any more These Gates are so mightily decayed that there is not to be seen the least of the old Buildings The Turks have instead of them built others in the New raised Wall but yet not half so many in number whereof some according as the Town is enlarged in some places and contracted in others are displaced others are erected again in the same places according to the Old Streets viz. 1. The Fish-Gate which is still standing towards the West behind Mount Sion and over against Mount Gihon as you may conclude out of the words of the 2d Book of Chronicles in the 33d Chapter and 14th Verse Manasses built a Wall without the City of David on the West-side of Gihon in the Valley even to the entring in at the Fish-Gate This Gate hath its Name because they brought many Fishes from the Sea-side through this Gate into the City So is also still standing on the outside of the Valley Tiropaeon which distinguished the two Mounts Sion and the Temple Mount called Moriah the Gate of the Fountain which hath its Name because it leadeth towards the Fountain of Siloha which Nehemiah in his 2d Chapter Verse 14 calleth the Kings Pool Through this was our dear Lord Christ the true promised Siloha brought a Prisoner bound from the Mount of Olives over the Brook Kidron into the House of Hannas and Caiphas in the upper Town as we read in the 12th Chapter Verse 37. that by the Fountain-Gate they went up to the City of David The same way also the two Disciples Peter and John were sent to bespeak the Paschal Lamb by Christ where they met the Man with the Pitcher of Water The Sheep or Beast-Gate is also still standing by Moriah the Mountain of the Temple which the Turks have taken to themselves and have built on it a Turkish Mosque or Temple because that God Almighty hath done many and great Miracles on this Mount and besides Mahumet did find himself again on this Mount after he had been carried up as his lying Writings tell us through the Heavens before God by the Angel Gabriel Wherefore they take this Mount to be Holy so that none that is not Circumcised and so Unclean dare approach or come near it nor take the nearest way without over the height of the Mount as Nehemiah did as you may see in the before quoted place so that the Christians must take a further way about and from the Gate Siloha go below through the Valley of the Brook Cedron between this and the Mount of Olives to the Beast-Gate which hath its Name because the Beasts that were to be offer'd in the Temple were driven through it Near the Gate you see still the Sheep-pond which is large and deep yet hath but little Water in it wherein the Nathineens used to wash the Beasts and then to give them to the Priests And also immediately within towards the North a Conduit which was the Pool by St. John the Evangelist in the 2d Verse of his 5th Chapter called Bathesda erected by King Ezechia that had five Porches wherein lay a great multitude of impotent folk that waited for the moving of the Water Through this Gate is the straight way over the Brook Cedron by the Mount of Olives toward Bethania down to Jericho on the River Jordan into the Valley of Josaphat wherefore this also being nearer now in these days is called the Valley-gate There is also still the Corner-gate in its old place where the North and East Walls meet on large and high Rocks and 〈◊〉 called still by some the Gate of Naphthali This I thougâ— convenient to say of the City of Jerusalem in the gâ—nerâ— of its Buildings Fruitfulness and adjacent Countries what Famous and Holy Places are within and without the City thereof I intend to treat in particular CHAP. IV. Of Mount Sion and its Holy Places MOunt Sion very famous in holy Scripture hath round about it steep sides high Rocks deep Ditches and Valleys so that it is not easie to climb up to it only on one side towards the North where it buts upon the lower Town so that the Castle and Town of David situated on it was very strong and almost Invincible as you may read in the 48 Psalm vers 2. The joy of the whole earth is Mount Sion on the sides of the north the City of the great King God is known in her places for a refuge for the Kings were assembled c. Seeing then that the Castle and the upper Town Millo vvas so vvell fortified vvith Tovvers and Walls that it vvas not easily to be taken the Jebusites after that Canaan the vvhole Land of Promise together vvith the Tovvn of Jerusalem vvas taken did defend themselves in it against the vvhole force of Israel for a long time although they often attempted to take it and called the Tovvn of Jerusalem after their Name Jebus until the Kingly Prophet David came vvho took it by force and after he had rebuilt the upper Tovvn and joined the Castle vvith it into one Building and surrounded it vvith Walls he called it after his ovvn Name The City of David and kept his Court there and gave also Lodgings to his Hero's and Officers vvhereof Vriah vvas one vvho had his Lodgings near to the Kings Palace vvherein the King vvalking on the Roof of his House savv the fair Bathsheba his Wife and committed Adultery vvith her These their Habitations as they are still built in these Days have instead of Thatch or Tiles plaister'd Roofs so that one may walk on them as you may see here that King David walked on it And also in the Second Chapter of the Book of Joshua where is said That when the Two Spies sent into the Land of Promise to Jericho came into Rahab's House and the King sent to search after them they went at her request up to the Roof of the House where she hid them with the Stalks of Flax which she had laid in order upon the Roof But seeing there is nothing so strong in in this World that is not transitory
the Germans French and Italians and praise them saying That they are stout and courageous Soldiers they call them all by the same Name Franci because the Divisions of our Country are unknown to most of them In former Ages they had here and there in large and eminent Towns instead of the Pope whom they will not obey nor be subject unto their Patriarch Archbishops and Bishops whereof some are still kept up but after the Turks did take and possess themselves of their Country there is fewer of them in number and they have smaller Revenues Without their Country they have in great trading Cities as Cayro Alepo Antiochia of Syria Venice c. their peculiar Churches and chiefly in some holy places in the Land of Promise As at Jerusalem the Temple of Mount Calvaria the place of Sculls whereon Christ was Crucified and also the beautiful Chancel that is in the middle of the Church wherein is a round hole about a span over in a stone which is as they pretend the middle of the Earth according to the Words of the Kingly Prophet David when he says God who now is my King from the beginning has wrought our selves on the middle of the Earth Besides these they have another called the Holy Cross about an English Mile out of Town which as they pretend is built on the same place where the Tree did grow whereof they made the Cross of Christ Besides this they have a great many more which I reckon unnecessary to mention here Some of their Church-Doors are so low that you must stoop when you will go through them They believe that the Holy Ghost doth proceed only from the Father and not from the Son They keep yearly two great Fasts and they eat Flesh upon the Sabbath or Saturday at pleasure they sing the Mass in their own Language that every Body may understand it In their Churches they suffer no embossed Work nor carved Images but have plain Pictures on Boards or on the Walls They do not believe a Purgatory as the Papists there called Latini nor that our Praying Fasting or Offering for the Dead can do them any good And they are mightily displeased that the Roman Priests do not according to the plain words of St. Paul marry as well as they nor give the Lords Holy Supper in both kinds as our Lord himself did institute it Wherefore they condemn such Errors of the Popish Church and excommunicate the Pope and his Adherents on the holy Friday yearly And because they reckon them to be superstitious they will not permit them to say Mass upon their Altars but if they should do it they accuse them before the Turkish Magistrates So it happened when I first came over that they were very angry with a Papist that had said Mass upon their Altar and so had profaned it wherefore they did immediately consecrate the Altar again and had the Priest before the Cadi and they brought it so far that he was mulcted Five hundred Ducats to pay in a short time When he thought that the Punishmenr was greater than the Trespass or Transgression he did seek for help at Alepo and Tripoli by the French and Italian Consul but did obtain no great matter so that he was still in election to pay the Forfeiture CHAP XII Of the SURIANS that esteem themselves to be Christians AMong the Eastern Christians we also find them that are called Surians whereof there is a great many but chiefly in Syria They have like unto the Jews in several Towns their peculiar Churches In Jerusalem they live in the Church of St. Mark which stands in the place where the House stood formerly at the Door whereof St. Peter the Apostle did knock when the Angel had delivered him out of Prison In their Religion they follow for the greatest part the Greeks they Administer the Sacrament in Leavened Bread and they say their Masses like unto them in the vulgar Arabian Tongue They are a sort of poor naked covetous and helpless People their Gowns reach only to their Knees as those of the Maronites some whereof are wrought of course Goats Hair striped black and white such as the Arabians make use of commonly and almost alike unto their Mescha which they use for Sacks and Tents and they wear nothing underneath them but Shirts without Neck-bands as is usual in all the Eastern Countries they wear High Shoes which serve them for Stockings and Breeches also being tied up with Straps They are subject unto the Turks who make use of them as Labourers both by Water and Land They also mind their Trade more than their Religion wherefore having lived so long among the Turks they have already assumed their Customs and Manners in Temporal and Spiritual Affairs and are thereby become so confident and secure that now adays the Difference between these two Religions are esteemed by them to be small and frivolous If a Christian hath to deal with them and desireth to buy something of them either Opium Scammony or any other the like Drug which they commonly falsifie he must look to himself as if he had to deal with Jews CHAP. XIII Of the GEORGIANS NEar unto the glorious City of Trapozinta situated on the Euxine Sea beginneth the Country of the Georgians and butts toward the South upon Armenia These are very civil and simple People but yet strong and brave Warriors they esteem and honor among other Saints but chiefly for warlike Businesses as their Patron the Knight St. George from whom they take their Denomination Their Merchants come very often in great Caravans to Alepo and are according to all appearance in their shape and posture like unto the Persians only that these are more whitish and the others more tawny and browner they wear also like them short flying Coats and long and wide Drawers c. They have as the rest their Patriarchs and Bishops who altho they are differing and dissenting in some points yet for the most part they follow the Doctrine and Errors of the Grecians and so they have and use the same Writings and Offices Their Priests are as well as those of the Armenians allowed to be married but yet if either of them should happen to die they must not marry again In Jerusalem they are also possessed of their peculiar places wherein they sing and exercise the Offices and chiefly of one in the Church of Mount Calvaria in the place near the Sepulchre of our Lord Christ where he did first appear unto Mary Magdalen in the similitude of a Gardener after his Resurrection CHAP. XIV Of the ARMENIANS and their Religion THE Armenians possess a large Countrey which is chiefly divided into two parts viz. The Lesser Armenia which is now subject to the Turks and the Greater now called Turco-Mannia by some which is partly belonging to the Sophy King of Persia In it arise two great Rivers the Euphrates and the Tigris which run a great way toward the South mix together
nearer into the Valley between the Mounts of Olives there is still to be seen several Fig-trees whereabouts Christ did curse one of that kind because he found no Fruit thereon when he was hungry Just at the coming out of the Valley near unto the Steps of Mount Olivet you see the City again but chiefly the Mount of the Temple and Gate where you go up walled up in the new Wall From this Valley when our Lord Christ came in sight and came down the Mount Olivet the People as he came riding long cried saying Hosanna to the Son of David c. And a little after when he came nearer unto it he lamented with tears also their future misery and the terrible destruction of the Town and went in from thence toward the Golden Gate into the Temple and drove out the Buyers and Sellers CHAP. XXII Of Bethlehem the Mountains of Judea and their famous Places Where also is made mention of my returning back from Jerusalem to Tripoli BEthlehem formerly called Ephrata is situated towards the South Twenty Furlongs or a German Mile distant from Jerusalem The nearest way to it you go through the Gate of Hebron and come to the Right by the upper Mote and the bloudy Field up the steps over mount Gihon where just before you see a Cistern with good fresh Water near the Path made of white Stones and well prepared near which the Star did appear again unto the three wise Men of the Eastern Countries and led them into Bethlehem Near it there groweth a Turpentine Tree larger and higher than any that ever I saw elsewhere in my life Further about half way you pass over a Hill at the top whereof you may see both Towns Jerusalem and Bethlehem Before you is a large Valley which altho it be rocky yet is it fruitful both of Corn and Wine In it towards the Right Hand near the Road is an Acre called the Cicer-Field which had its Name as I was informed from the following Transaction It is said that when Christ went by at a certain time and saw a Man that was a sowing Cicers he did speak to him kindly and asked him what he was a sowing there the man answered scornfully and said He sowed small stones Then let it be said our Lord that thou reap the same seed thou sowest So they say that at Harvest-time he found instead of the Cicer-pease nothing but small Pebles in shape and colour and bigness like unto them exactly Now whether there be any thing of truth in it or no I cannot affirm but this I must say that there are to this day such stones found in this Field For as we went by some of us went into it and did gather a great many of them that were in bigness shape and colour so like unto these Cicers by the Arabians called Ommos and in Latin Cicer arietinum that we could hardly distinguish them from natural ones Hard by it you see still some old Ruins of old Stones where first Abraham the Patriarch did build a Tent as you read Genesis 12.8 And he removed from thence unto a Mountain on the East of Bethel and pitched his Tent having Bethel on the West and Hai on the East Senacherib the King of Assyria when he went before Jerusalem did come into this Valley with all his might and power and had by the Angel of the Lord in one nights time One hundred and eighty five thousand Men slain and still to this day there are two great holes to be seen wherein they flung the dead Bodies one whereof is hard by the Road towards Betlehem the other towards the Right Hand over gainst old Bethel which Town fell to the Children of Benjamin and is called still to this day Bethisella and is situated half a League farther towards the West at the Foot of the Hill in a very fruitful Country There did Jacob the Patriarch when he fled from his Brother Esau see in his sleep the Ladder which reached up into Heaven whereon the holy Angels ascended and descended wherefore he erected there a stone for a mark and called the place Bethel which was called Luz before as you may read in the Twenty eighth Chapter of Genesis As you come nearer to Bethlehem you see the Grave of Rachel at your Right Hand near the Road which Jacob did erect there when his Wife died in labour with Benjamin as you read in Genesis xxxv 16. And they journeyed from Bethel and there was but a little way to come to Ephrath and Verse 18. And it came to pass as her soul was in departing for she died that she called his name Benoni but his father called him Benjamin and Rachel died and was buried in the way Ephrath which is Bethlehem And Jacob set a pillar upon her grave that is the pillar of Rachel's Grave unto this day Before you come quite thither there is just by without it on the Left a good rich Cistern which is deep and wide Wherefore the People that go to dip water are provided with small Leathern Buckets and a Line as is usual in these Countries and so the Merchants that go in Carrvans through great Desarts into far Countries provide themselves also with these because in these Countries you find more Cisterns or Wells than Springs that lie high This was formerly under the Gates of Bethlehem whereof King David longed to drink wherefore his three Champions did break into the Camp of the Philistins and did dip some Water out of the Well and brought it to the King but the King would not drink of it for certain Reasons as you may read in the Twenty third Chapter of Samuel and in the Twelfth Chapter of the First of Chronicles From thence we went by the Path of the Mount into Bethlehem the Town of David where he was born and anointed King by the Prophet Samuel it lieth upon an Ascent its Buildings Town-Walls and Towers are so decayed that now it is quite open and nothing at all to be seen except the Well and Monastery but ruined Cottages Just without Bethlehem at the the other side of the Path towards the East for formerly the Town reached fo far they shew still the Stable under a large Rock wherein Jesus Christ the promised Messias God and Man was born of the immaculate Virgin Mary and laid in a Manger Of his coming and the place where he should be born the holy Prophet Micah long before prophesied in his Fifth Chapter and Second Verse saying But thou Bethlehem Ephrata though thou be little among the thousands of Juda yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel whose goings forth have been from of old from everlasting On that place hath Helena Mother of Constantine the Great also built a stately Church but since it is so ruined and demolished that hardly half of it is left as one may see by the old Walls of the Foun-Foundation and other Places
Bethlehem there are some Valleys very well tilled with Corn and Wine and among the rest a very pleasant and fruitful one that beginneth immediately by the Church and Fountain and runs down towards Jericho and Jordan This is below pretty wide full of Olive and Fig-trees it also bringeth forth some comfortable Herbs viz. some strange Origanums Tragoriganum Roman Serpillum which the Arabians call Sathar Absintium Santonicum which groweth every where in the holy Land this hath small ash-coloured Leaves very like unto them of ours and many small Stalks full of small yellowish Seeds it is of an unpleasant Smell very bitter with a saltish sharpness wherefore it is reputed to be the Scheha of the Arabians from whence our Worm-seed cometh In this Valley were the Shepherds to whom the Angels of the Lord did appear and declared to them the saving Birth of our Lord Jesus Christ saying Behold I bring you good tidings of great joy which shall be to all people for unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour which is Christ the Lord c. and suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host praising God and saying Glory to God in the highest and on earth peace good will towards men In that place which is about half a League below Bethlehem is still a Church which also Queen Helena did build as Nicephorus testifieth in the Thirtieth Chapter of his Eighth Book this is for the greatest part fallen in so that nothing more but a small Arch is to be seen of it Hard by it did stand the Tower Ader as St. Jerom writes whereby Israel did erect a Tent as you may read in Genesis and looked after the Sheep with his Twelve Sons This is in our time so demolished that it lieth quite in Ruins Beyond it in another Valley not far from Bethlehem they shew still to this day a large Orchard full of Citron Lemon Orange Pomegranate and Fig-trees and many others which King Solomon did plant in his Days with Ponds Canals and other Water-Works very pleasantly prepared as he saith himself in the Second Chapter of Ecclesiastes Verse 5. I made me gardens and orchards and I planted trees in them of all kind of fruits I made me pools of water to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees This is still in our time full of good and fruitful Trees wherefore it is worthy to be seen for their sakes and also for the Ditches sake that are still there Wherefore I really believe it to be that same whereof Josephus maketh mention in his Eighth Book of the Jewish Antiquities and the Seventh Chapter saying And the King rode in a Chariot cloathed in white and it was his Custom to ride early in the morning to a place called Hetten a hundred Furlongs from Jerusalem where he had a Garden with Water-pools and Works very pleasant and rich Thither went the King for his pleasure and did always use great diligence and consideration in all things and took delight to see every thing neat and handsom c. After we had seen the chiefest places within and without near and a far off of Bethlehem we returned to Jerusalem again by another way that was near as far again about and went over the Mountains of Judea which have first as you come from thence very good and fruitful Valleys full of Vines and Corn but the nearer you come to Jerusalem the higher and rougher are the Mountains In this way half a League from Nebeleschol the Friars shewed us a Well very rich of Water just by the Road that goeth down to Gaza this runneth into a small Rivulet wherein the holy Apostle Philip did baptize Candaces Chamberlain to the Queen of Aethiopia by it is nothing else to be seen but a small Church and a Fish-pond From thence we came over high rough and steep Hills into the Deserts where St John the Baptist did lead his life in his young Age there is nothing to be seen but a very ancient Chapel and hard by it a delicate Spring on the top of the Hill where we went up to refresh our selves a little with eating and drinking of what we had taken along with us About the Roads grow many Trees by the Inhabitants called Charnubi the Fruit whereof is called St. John's Bread in our Country and is brought to us in great plenty From thence we had still a very rough and hilly way to the Church and Habitation of Zachary whither the Virgin Mary did come climbing over the Hills to give Elizabeth a Visit c. before it a League distance nearer to the Town at the end of the Valley Raphaim whereof the holy Scripture maketh often mention viz. in the Fifteenth and Eighteenth Chapters of Joshua and in the First of the Chronicles and the 12th Chapter stands in a very pleasant and fruitful place the Church of St. John the Baptist and by it before you come quite to it falleth down the Spring of Nephthaah that is very rich of Water This Church is very ancient but yet pretty well built and hath on the Left Hand as you go in a deep and hidden Cave wherein Elizabeth did hide her self with John her Child that it might not be slain with the Children of Bethlehem by the Servants of Herod whereof you may read more in the Proto-Evangelium of St. Jacob where it is thus written When Elizabeth did hear that among the rest of the Innocents which Herod had commanded to be killed her Son John was also searched for she did climb up the Hills and looked about her where she might hide him but when she saw no place there where she could do him she sighed and cried out with a loud voice saying O ye hills of Gad take both the Mother and the Child for she could not ascend them the Hill did open it self instantly and took them into it c. But how afterwards Herod did search for John and how he did threaten and exhort his Father Zachary to tell him where his Son was and also how his Servants did kill Zachary not being satisfied with his Answer for it in the Porch of the Temple is at length related in the Books of the Martyrs of the Learned and Reverend Ludowich Rabus As you come from the before-mentioned Church nearer to the Town of Jerusalem there is still seen a large Pillar that is of great Antiquity and lieth very high between the Mountains on a high Hill five Furlongs off of Jerusalem wherefore some take it to be Ruines of the Fortification of Betzura but as far as one can understand by the Books of Maccabees that is situated more towards the East behind Mount Olivet Just before it within stands in the Valley that is full of pleasant Olive Trees a very old yet well built Church called the Holy Cross whereof some Greek Friars are possessed they pretend that in that place the Tree did stand that was made use of for the
Cross of Christ this we did soon leave and went over a small height through the Gate of Hebron again into Jerusalem and made our selves ready to return the next day again to Joppe towards our Ship And so we rewarded the Father Guardian their Interpreter and others that had conducted us for their Faithfulness and Services done us according to our Ability to their full content and satisfaction wherefore the Father Guardian did freely give to each of us a Certificate under his usual Seal that we had seen all the holy places which were named in it This done we went away and came the next day to Rama towards Joppe By the way I found some Lentiscus's from whence the Mastich cometh Arbutus Ilex and a strange sort of Willows by the Inhabitants called Sassaf but by Theophrastus Elaeagnus some Olive-Trees Palm-Trees White Mulberry-Trees Sumach-Trees and Styrax from which cometh a fweet smelling Gum called by the same Name that is brought from thence into our Country Spartium Lycium which is a strange Shrub and the Juice thereof retaineth the same Name and is found sometimes in our Apothecaries Shops the King and Prophet David maketh mention thereof under the Hebrew Name Hadhadd by which also the Arabians call it their Speech running much upon the Hebrew Hereabout grow also very many Fruits called Siliquae by the Latines and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by the Greeks but by the Inhabitants Charnubi whereof many are brought out to us and are very well known by the Name of St. John's Bread These are so common in these Countries that they esteem them less than we do the worst Fruit we have wherefore they give them to the Cattle to eat Wherefore it is probable that the prodigal Son desired to fill his Belly with these Fruits which as it appeareth by the Greek Text the Hogs did eat and yet could not have enough of them to satisfie his Hunger Besides these I found also by the way many Turpentine-Trees by the Inhabitants called Botin and Albotin which are very common in France chiefly about Montpelier they have small green Kernels that are of a reddish Colour and hollow within and are oftentimes basely sold and used by the Apothecaries for the true Carpabalsamum for these and others above-mentioned as we read in the Eighth Chapter of Nehem. the Israelites did take Bows and made themselves Tents of them to live in during their great Feast of Tabernacles I saw also chiefly between Rama and Joppa some white Barbery Trees which I took first for Paliurus the third kind of Rhamnus unto which they are very like except the Fruits whereby I did discern them first and besides they are much higher and their Branches covered with a white Bark Now although they are not to be taken for the same yet they are very like unto the second Paliurus whereof Theoprastus maketh mention in the Fourth Chapter and the Fourth Verse Among the Corn I did find a strange Origanum Serpillum Smilax aspera Triones of Theophrastus whereof I have made mention above After we had made our selves quite ready to sail for Tripolis whither we had about Forty German Miles we went aboard the Ship and set Sail with a fair Wind. But this did not last long for as soon as we were out at Sea there arose one that was so contrary to us that we hardly reached the Confines of Tirus and Sidon the Fourth Day where we arrived in our former Voyage at night as I have said before I saw nothing of any Buildings on the Shoar but some small Houses in the place where formerly the Town Sarepta did stand which as you may read in the Fourth Chapter of St. Luke and in the Third Book of Kings Chap. 17. was situated near unto Sidon or as Josephus writes in his Eighth Book of the Jewish Antiquities Chap. 13. between Tyrus and Sidon in the Country of Phaenicia wherein the holy Prophet Elias during the great scarcity did live a great while with a Widow and did restore her dead Son to life again Departing thence the night befel us before we gat over against Sidon but we went so near the Town that we could see the Houses and some Rocks butting upon them by Moon-light From thence the nearer we came to Tripolis the more the wind was for us so that we arrived there on the First of October in the year 1575 in very good health and condition Wherefore I give eternal Thanks Glory and Praise unto the Almighty God the Father Son and Holy Ghost Amen CHAP. XXIII How I took ship at Tripolis in Syria and sailed back from thence to Venice and travelled home again to my own Relations at Augspurg AT my Arrival at Tripolis when I hoped that something might have been done for the Good of Hans Vlrich Krafft whom I left in Prison behind as is above-mentioned towards his Deliverance that we seeing we came out together might have remained together a while longer and have ended our Journey to our content I found there was not only nothing done to the purpose but his Cause came to be worse and worse so that it was even or odd whether I should not have been cast into Prison also and beaten severely to boot When thus he was detained in Prison I received a Letter and Command as well from his Adversary as from my own Friends desiring me to take the Cause in hand earnestly to bring them both to an Accommodation and that if I would do so I should do him greater service than if I should stay a whole year longer at Tripoli expecting his Deliverance Now although many means were used after my Departure for his Liberty yet they proved all fruitless unsuccessful and vain so that he was forced to spend three intire years miserably in this severe Turkish Imprisonment untill at length he was miraculously delivered Wherefore I got every thing ready for my Departure and went aboard the Ship called the St. Matthew on the Day of St. Leonhard being the Sixth Day of November in the year 75 having first taken my leave of the above-mentioned my dear Friend Hans Vlrich Krafft whom I loved as my own Brother and the next day we put out having a very good wind So our Navigation proceeded in the beginning very successfully and we discovered on the Third Day early the great Island of Cyprus But when we approached unto it a Hurricane arose suddenly and blew so fiercely upon us that it wound our great Sail round about our main Mast so that it was a wonder to me that it did not bring it by the Board or as it would if the Seamen had not struck it down immediately turn the Ship over and sink her These Winds arise from a Wind that is called by the Greeks Typhon and Pliny calleth it Vertex and Vortex but as dangerous as they are as they arise suddenly so quickly they are laid again also The Seamen pretend that one shall
fruticescens Thymum legitimum which last serves them for common Fuel the Thymbra or Satureia vulgaris all loaded with Epithymum or Dodder the Tribulus Terrestris is very noxious to their Fields and Pulse Scammonea or Scammony in hilly places Sesamum and Xylon or Cotton are sown in April Pitch is boyl'd out of the Pines on the Mountains There is none of our Asparagus but instead of it two prickly kinds called Corruda and Polytricha Ten varieties of wild Anemone's There is a sort of Artichoke called by the Shepherds Agriocinara whose turbinated Root is sold by many Druggists for the Costus Indicus the tops are eaten the Flower is white sometimes purple There is a sort of Carline Thistle called Chamaelion Albus whose odorate Root sweats out a Gum which the Women in Candy chew as they in Scio do Mastick or they in Lemnos the Gum of a Condrilla Two sorts of Acanthus one soft the other prickly The Inhabitants have not left off the old manner of preserving the tops of an Anonis as also the tender shoots of an Eryngium The Island affords three kinds of Origanum a sort of Squill or Sea-Onion Orobus Securidaca and many other Legumes It abounds with Terebinths and Mastick-Trees Laurels Styrax an arborescent Ricinus or Palma-Christi Aspalathus and a Genisto spartium called Echinopoda The Ibex or Steinbock a swift nimble Animal whose Horns are heavy and long for the bulk of the Creature frequents the Rocky Mountains There is also the Strepsiceros a sort of Gazella The Bird called Merops and Apiastrum or Beeater a sort of Woodpecker is common in the Island catches Bees and feeds on them in the Air. The Attagen and Francolino as also a white large Partridge frequent the Mountains Eagles Vultures and Falcons build on the Rocks The Fish called Scarus which I never observ'd in the Euxine Propontis or any other part of the Mediterranean Sea is common on the Coasts of Candy and is generally taken at the same Season that the Inhabitants rake and gather their sweet Labdanum or Ladanum The only Bait for this Fish is made of the Leaves of a Phaseolus which they swallow very greedily I observ'd only three kinds of Serpents in this Island the first is called by the Country People Ophis the second Ochendra the third Tephloti but none of these is venomous I saw one bite and draw Blood but without any harm Hence the Ancients might say that Crete nourish'd no poysonous Animal The Phalangium is common up and down it weaves Webbs like other Spiders to catch its Prey Butterflies and Flies and other Insects It lays about sixty Eggs carries and hatches them under its Belly it fights much with the Ichneumon Wasp The Stone called Dactylus Idaeus or Belemnites erroneously taken and sold for the Lapis Lyncis is plentiful on Mount Ida. The Vinum malvaticum or Pramnium as also the Moschatell are made here and transported up and down For a full Catalogue of such Vegetables as grow in the Island of Candy together with their synonymous Names and Places the Reader may be pleas'd to consult Mr. Ray's Collection of Exotick Catalogues publish'd this year at London and annex'd to the end of this Second Tome amongst which the Cretick Plants are all drawn together out of Bellonius Honorio Belli Alpinus Pona c. CHAP. II. A Description of Mount Athos commonly called Monte Santo by Mr. Belon THIS famous Mountain so celebrated by the Ancients stands in a Peninsula or Promontory of Macedonia stretching out into the Aegaean Sea its Shadow reaches to Lemnos or Stalamine 't is inhabited only by Monks called Caloyers who never marry though other Priests of the Greek Church do These Caloyers abstain from all Flesh and even from sanguineous Fishes in Lent time they live very hardly and severely their ordinary Dish is pickled Olives not green like ours but black and ripe dry'd without Pickle There are about 6000 of these Monasticks that inhabit several places of this Mountain on which are seated 24 large old Monasteries encompassed with high strong Walls for defence against Pyrates and other Robbers though they who spare no body are kind and indulgent to the Caloyers In these Monasteries the Ceremonies of the Greek Church are most diligently and strictly observ'd and these Caloyers or Monks are the most reverenc'd of any belonging to that Communion the Turks themselves will often send them Alms being taken with the Sanctity of their Lives and the Monks who inhabit Mount Sinai Mount Libanus the Desarts of St. Anthony Jerusalem and other holy places are always the more valued and respected if they have lived before on Mount Athos which is in as great esteem and veneration amongst the Greeks as Rome amongst the Latines This place is under the Jurisdiction of the Patriarch of Constantinople who pays about 12000 Ducats per annum to the Grand Signior upon the account of the Europaean Greek Church The Patriarchs of Alexandria Damascus Antioch c. give also their particular Sums to the Turk who gives liberty of Religion to all that pay Tribute Of these 6000 Religious or Caloyers of Mount Athos none lead idle Lives as most of the Monks in other places do but every one hath his daily Employment some labour with the Ax Spade and Sickle dress their Vineyards cut Trees build Fishing-Vessels others carry Sacks full of Provision Bread and Onions some spin and weave their Distaff being made of the Arundo Donax and their Spindle of the Herb called Attractilis some are Taylors Bricklayers and Carpenters they are generally clothed like Hermits This Mountain is about three days Journey long and may be seen about 30 leagues off at Sea the Monasteries are at some distance They give such Provisions as they have gratis to all Travellers whatsoever as pickled or dryed Olives raw Onions salted Beans Bisquet Salted Fish sometimes fresh for they often go a fishing their Vessels or Boats being cut without great difficulty out of the thick Trunks of Plain Trees their Nets for want of Cork are supported with Gourds as they are in the Propontis with the Bark of Pines The chief Monastery is called Ageas Laura and fronts the Isle of Lemnos it contains about 300 Caloyers or Greek Monks those that look towards the Continent or Macedonia have all their peculiar Names and contain some 200 others 150 Caloyers Formerly there were good Greek Manuscripts in these Monasteries but now none at all unless of Theology no Poets no Historians no Philosophers not one of the Monks learned of 6000 scarce above two or three know how to write or read so degenerated and depress'd is the Greek Nation at present They use Wax-Candles and Lamps in their Churches as also Statues Pictures and Bells They have no Poultry Pigeons or any other Birds nor Sheep nor Cows nor Goats because they abstain from all Flesh They hunt no Game tho' there is great variety and plenty only Fish near the Shore I observ'd abundance of those Birds called
Molliceps a sort of Chaffinch as also of the Torquilla or Wrynecks No People have the Privilege of living on this Mountain but these Caloyers Mount Athos abounds with many rare Plants but because many of them are already mentioned to grow near Mount Ida in Candia I shall industriously omit to name such of them in this place I observ'd here the Apion a sort of knobbed Spurge which the Caloyers themselves know to be purgative Hippoglossum or Horse-Tongue Veratrum nigrum or Black Hellebore common in the Valleys Beech Hornbeam Service Oleaster Myrtles Oleander with a red flower several Bindweeds running up to the high tops of the Plane Trees which here vye in height with the Cedars of Libanus or the Firrs of Olympus There is a sort of Cantharides on this Hill called Buprestis of a yellowish colour very foetid feeding on Brambles Succory Nettle Conyza and other Herbs If any Beasts swallow this Insect they swell and dye There is a sort of Cray-fish in the fresh Rivolets which the Caloyers eat raw and I my self found the taste of them very sweet and grateful They do not crawl up from the Sea but breed in the Streams above There is a Plant in the Valleys called Elegia perhaps a Species of Arundo whose Branches serve instead of Writing-Pens for neither the Turks nor the Greeks know the use of Quills The Caloyers brought us several things to eat as Rocket Roots of Smallage the Bulbs of Leeks Cucumbers Onions Garlick which we eat without either Oyl or Vinegar black Olives course Bisket and Wine they also regal'd us with salted and dry'd Fish Sepia's Polypi and Loligines Crabbs and other Crustaceous and Testaceous Animals These Monks had rather dye than eat Flesh upon any occasion We ascended to the very top of Mount Athos where we could not long endure the Cold we saw from thence many adjacent Provinces and Islands as Cassandria Scyton Lemnos Thasson Samothracen Imbron c. In our descent we observ'd Firrs and Pitch-Trees which differ'd a little from those of Mount Ida for in these the Cones adher'd so close to the Branches that they would not separate besides these were very smooth whereas the others were scabrous There being no Haven under this Mountain the Caloyers are forced to draw their Fishing-Vessels ashore and place them behind Iron Gates lest the Pyrates should set fire to them They exchange their Grapes Olives Figgs Onions Garlick Beans and Legumes with the Mariners who bring them some Wheat They have Mills on the Streams of the Hill They express an Oyl out of their Bayberries which they send into Walachia Bulgaria and Servia where 't is sold They take abundance of the Long Oyster or Langouste The multitude of Springs and Streams the variety of Herbage and Evergreens the Woods and pleasant Shoar do all render Mount Athos one of the most charming places in the World CHAP. III. An Account of a Journey by Land from Mount Athos to Constantinople wherein the Gold and Silver Mines of Macedonia together with many Antiquities and Natural Rarities are describ'd LEaving Mount Athos we travelled in two days to Saloniki formerly called Thessalonica and in two days more we reach'd Siderocapsa the Chrysites of the Ancients where now the Turks and many other Nations work the rich Oars which afford yearly a very considerable Treasure and make the place much frequented and resorted to 'T is situated amongst the Valleys at the foot of high Mountains and yields monthly to the Grand Signior for his share only above 18000 Gold Ducats and sometimes 30000 clear of all Disbursements There are about Five or Six hundred Furnaces dispers'd up and down these Mountains which abound with great varieties of Pyrites Marchasites and other Oars which they work in a different manner from the Germans and Spaniards Their Furnaces and Work-houses are all placed on the sides of Rivolets for all their Bellows play with Wheels turn'd by Streams of Water The white Soot of the Chimneys is called Spodus and Pompholix as it differs in colour of which above ten pounds may be gathered every week They separate the Lead from the Gold and Silver by particular fusions then the Silver from the Gold by Aqua fortis Out of the Gold they coyn their Ducats which are very flexible and esteem'd the purest Gold in the World always clean and resplendent From these metallick Mountains we saw Mount Athos and great part of Macedonia which appear'd hilly I observ'd here two Serpents never seen before by me the Greeks called them Sapidi or Sapiti which comes near to Seps or Sips The Inhabitants of Syderocapsa gather abundance of the Rhus or Sumach which they use in preparing their Skins and tanning their Leather which the Aegyptians do with the Pods of their Acacia the Natolians with the Cups of the Acorns of a Dwarf-Oak called Esculus the Illyrians with a black Myrtle perhaps the Rhus Myrtifolia the French with Oak bark the Lesbians and Phrygians with the bark of the Picea The Workmen use several Machines in working and drawing up the Oars according as the Veins lye These Works employ above 6000 men In a Lake near Syderocapsa I took notice of several Fishes as one called Laros by the Natives because the Gulls feed much upon it by the Latines Gania by the French Mouatte by those of Diepe and Newport Mauue Another called Claria by those of Lyons Lotte by the Parisians Barbotte Also the Liparis the Perch young Mullets c. In the adjacent Country there are Fallow Deer Buffalo's Wild Boar Goats Red Deer and our Roe Deer Porcupines Urchins Wolfs Foxes Hares the Chamois or Rupicapra the Tragelaphus different from the Hippelaphus Leaving Syderocapsa we spent two days in getting to Cavalla anciently called Boucephala whereas we might have gone by Sea in half a day In this Journey we saw the River Strymon and on it Swans and other Birds like Pelecans At the mouth of this River are seen the Remains of a place called by the Natives Chrysopolis tho' Pliny puts it not far from Chalcedon We saw Ceres the Cranon of the Ancients afterwards Tricala and so by the side of the Mountain Despota through a great Plain to Philippi near which are many Villages and several Mines We observ'd hereabouts Misseltoe on the Oak as also in many other places of Macedonia where they make Bird-lime The Ground is very much over-run with the Paliurus and Rhamnus The Ruins of Philippi are about two days Journey from Trica or Tricala and Philippi scarce three more from Philippolis These were great Roads in the time of the Roman Empire now heaps of Rubbish and Sepulchres of Marble with Inscriptions The Isle of Tasso is but six hours distant and from thence this great quantity of white Marble might have easily been fetch'd The Magnificence of Philippi may be guess'd at from the number of these noble Monuments and Inscriptions from the fair Amphitheatre still entire with its Marble Seats 'T is not oval as
those at Otricholi and Rome but spherical as those at Verona and Nismes There are also Dorick and Ionick Pillars with many Statues belonging to the Temple of Divus Claudius At Cavalla or Boucephala there are still great Cisterns of hardned Cement as at Baiae and Aquaeducts Departing from Cavalla we pass'd by Mount Haemus over the River Nesus and came to Bouron on the Salt-Lake of Bisto near a moist Plain full of Cytisus Halimus c. as about Philippi Here are taken great quantity of Dace or Dare which they pickle as we do Herrings as also smoak and dry them The Fishing on this Lake is very considerable for from hence they supply many distant places About six hours from Bouron we came to Commercina where they sell great variety of Provisions from thence we went to Cypsella where they make Alum by gently calcining the Stone and letting it dissolve afterwards in the Air by the Dews and Rains and then boyling and crystallizing the impregnated Water In this Journey we saw many old Roman Highways pav'd with great Stones We passed the Marisca of old Hebrus in a Ferry and came to Vire here they wash some Gold out of the Sand but are often forced to use Quicksilver in the separation The Water of Hebrus is very cold in the middle of Summer and the Banks are set with Tamarisks King's-fishers build their Nests in holes on the sides they make them of the Bones and Scales of little Fishes The Natives hereabouts often leave their Habitations to work in Harvest time Their Sickles differ from ours and their Corn is not thresh'd but trodden with Cattel In this Journey we found great variety and plenty of Jaspars and Chalcedony The Thracians and Macedonians gather all the Galls or Excrescencies on the Turpentine Trees which they sell at Prusa for the dying of Silks This Country abounds much with Tortoises for the Greeks never eat nor destroy their unless they catch them in their Gardens or Plantations of Cotton and Sesamum We left the Road of Gallipoli on the right and came to Rodesto the old Perinthus from thence we left Heraclea on the left and past Selibria a days Journey distant from Constantinople The Honey of Heraclea is said to be pernicious perhaps because the Country abounds with the Chamaeleon niger a sort of Carlina to whose Root adheres a very venomous Excrescence called Ixia which may affect the Bees that feed on that Plant. I found hereabouts a milky Plant perhaps an Apocynum with the leaves and flower of a Nerion or the purple Lysimachia Thrace is an open Country without Trees like Picardy the great Plains are divided here and there with Ridges and little Hills About three miles before we came to Constantinople we pass'd two long Wood-Bridges that run over the Salt-Marshes upon which are many Boats and Mills with eight Wings or Arms On these Lakes there is a great Fishery as also on the Propontis for the Oriental People as other Nations of old are more delighted with the Fish Diet than with that of Quadrupeds or Birds This may be one reason why the Books of the Ancients treat more of Fish than of Fowl or any other Animals CHAP. IV. The Ways of Fishing on the Propontis the Bosphorus and Hellespont as also of the Fishes taken By M. Belon THESE Seas abound extreamly with Fish that pass between the Euxine and Mediterranean into which abundance of great fresh Rivers empty themselves The Streights and Shoars are full of little Wood-Cottages wherein the Fishermen watch and observe the several Shoals and great variety of Nets both loose and fastened to Poles of several figures for the taking both of great and small frys There is also the Hook and Bait-fishing up and down with long Lines the Train and Hand-Nets c. Besides all these ways they practise another manner of fishing by lighted Torches in dark calm nights whereby they find the great Fishes asleep and strike them very silently with sharp Tridents and hooked Engines This they find the most convenient for taking the greater sorts of Fish which often break their Nets and Lines The common Fishes of these Streights are the Tunny and the Pelamis Macrel Scads Giltheads Mullets Gurnards Sheathfish Swordfish the Dolphin different from our Porpess the Wolf-fish Lampreys the Muraena Sphyrena Melanurus Salpa Sargus Moena Atherina Exocaetus which serve for Baits to catch Congers Celerinus Sardina Polypus Loligo Erythrinus c. The Garus so common in the Shops of Constantinople is prepared here only out of the Sanies or Ichor of the salted Intestines of the Macrel and Scads The red Cavear is not made of the Eggs or Roe of the Sturgeon but out of the Cyprinus Q. Whether the Author means the Bream or Carp CHAP. V. Of some Beasts and Mechanick Trades at Constantinople NEar the Hippodromus at Constantinople I observ'd some rare Animals which the Turkish Emperors are much delighted with as the Onager the Hystrix the Lupus Cervarius the Lynx the Ponticus Mus or Ermine many rare Weasils and odd Cats The Turks not using the Printing Trade they levigate and polish their Writing Paper in Box Frames by rubbing it with the Chalcedony and Jaspar-stones put at the end of Sticks They damask their Cymeters with a blewish colour by macerating Sal Armoniac and Verdigrease in Vinegar and steeping the Blades in this Mixture often pouring fresh upon them this acts upon the Steel and renders it of that colour upon polishing They granulate Leather for Scabbards In the Cutlers Shops one sees great variety of Horns Teeth c. as of Bufalo's Gazels Morse-Teeth and other Tusks They colour their Linnen with great variety and with many Figures which they cut in Wood and there paint afterwards stamp and press it upon the Linnen or Silk as in printing upon Paper they first polish their Linnen or Cottons with Pastes of fine Flower The Inhabitants on these Streights gather abundance of a broad-leav'd Alga which they mix with a fat Earth and so cover their Houses with it The Current running so strong casts out great variety of Marine Productions as Alcyonium or Arkeilli Antipathos a sort of Coralline Mr. Francis Vernon's Letter written to Mr. Oldenburg Jan. 10. 1675 6 giving a short account of some of his Observations in his Travels from Venice through Istria Dalmatia Greece and the Archipelago to Smyrna where this Letter was written SIR I Must beg your Excuse for not having written to you in so long a space The little rest I have had and the great unsettledness of my Condition is the reason Neither have I now any great Curiosities to impart to you only some small Circumstances of my Journey I will run over From Venice I set out with those Gallies which carried their Ambassadour that went for the Port. We touch'd at most of the considerable Towns of Istria and Dalmatia by the way In Istria we saw Pola an ancient Republick There remains yet an Amphitheatre entire
Journey to Mandragorai and Courougouli Scordium lanuginosum sive Creticum Alsine Lotoides seu Anthylloides sive spergulae facie C.B. Gingidum Hispanicum Leucoium Alyssoides Clypeatum maj C.B. Origanum Spicatum Moâ—is Sipyli foliis giabris Near Thyatira Spartium alterum Monospermum Pseudospartium Hispanicum Aphyllon A Thapsus minor longifolia or rather a Sideritis or Stachys foliis Salviae argenteis pilosis mollibus which is the Panacea of the Country People Scabiosa argentea min. About Smyrna Two kinds of Jujubes or Zizyphus Turpentine-trees and Mastick-trees Smyrnion Creticum Origanum perenne lignosum odoratissimum Several sorts of Olive-trees Tamarisk and Ricinus or Palma Christi Near the Gulf of Lepanto Tithymalus Spinosus The Fust or yellow Wood used to dye with called by the Greeks Chrysoxulo Cedrus Lyciae Arisarum angustifolium Lamium moschatum foliorum margine argentato About Mount Parnassus Athens and other places of Attica or Acbaja Stachys viscoso flore luteo odore Narcisii juncifolii Petromarula Cretica or Rapunculus Pyramidalis altera Sabina Crocus Albus Luteus Poterion Plinii smaller than Tragacanth Polium Gnapholoides Ilex Chermifera Acacia Secunda Matthioli Anemones of all colours Many Asters and Arisarums Aristolochia Clematitis Two Asphodils Brassica frutescens Borago variegata Cretica Cneoron Matth. Clusii sive Thymelaeae affinis facie externâ Several Cisti Jacea Moschata with other Knapweeds Leontopetalum all over the Plain of Athens Oleander Scilla Scotzonera Cretica Asphodeli fistulosi facie Galocorta Graecorum 't is the Womens Cosmetick and Milk-plant Siliqua Edulis or Carob Two Thymelaea's argentea tomentosa Tithymalus Spinosus Equisetum frutescens Aphyllon perhaps a sort of Tithymal Lychnis frutescens With many more which we have either mentioned in other places or else were doubtful of as a kind of small Silver-leav'd Scabious and a Dandelyon or Hieracium with Pilewort or small Colts foot-leaves with a Root like so many Scorpions following one another A sort of Medica lunatâ siliqua or Loto affinis siliquis hirsutis circinatis Astragalus argenteus or Syriacus Near Corinth and the Isthmus Pinùs Maritima with small Cones Cedrus Lycia vel Sabina baccifera Ceratia or Siliqua Arbor Lentiscus Olea Sylv. Scabiosa argentea petraea Aristolochiae Clematitis species Linaria latifolia valentina Clusii the flowers beautiful with three colours Androsaemum umbelliferum Scorzonera bulbosa Arbutus folio non serrato Comarea Dioscoridis Adrachne Theophrasti For these the Reader may consult Mr. Ray's Collection of Exotick Catalogues especially the Oriental one where the synonymous Names are added Historical Observations relating to Constantinople By the Reverend and Learned Tho. Smith D.D. Fellow of Magd. Coll. Oxon and of the Royal Society COnstantinople formerly Byzantium was by Constantine the Great called so after his own Name who being mightily pleased with the beautiful and advantagious situation of the place between two Seas and defended by narrow streights on both sides removed the Seat of the Empire hither and laid the foundation of its future splendor and greatness It was also by a special Edict or Law of the same Emperor which he caused to be engraven on a Marble Pillar placed near his own Statue on Horseback in one of the Piazza's of his new-built City called Strategium where the Souldiers used to muster as in the Campus Martius called Second or New Rome in emulation of old Rome which he designed and endeavoured this should equal in all things Accordingly he endowed it with the same Privileges and Immunities and establish'd the same number of Magistrates and Orders of People and divided the whole extent of it into fourteen Precincts or Regions according to the division of Rome And the Greek Writers were as elegant and extravagant in their commendations of it but the usual Title in their ordinary Discourses and Writings when they had occasion to mention it without any flourish was 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is the Imperial City to the same sense with that of Sidonius Apollinaris Salve sceptrorum columen Regina orientis Orbis Roma tui The Country about it was afterwards called Romania in a limited and restrained sense for that Romania was anciently the same with Orbis Romanus seems clear from Epiphanius and the People 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 But I suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the Empire when it began to decline The Greeks still retain this name For if you ask any of the Greeks born upon the Continent of Thrace what Countryman he is he answers forthwith 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Romios for so they pronounce it The Turks in like manner call a Greek Christian Urum Gaour or the Roman Infidel as they will call sometimes the Emperour of Germany Urumler Padisha or Emperor of the Romans Hence it was that the latter Graecian Emperors stiled themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Kings of the Romans that is such as were born in Romania and the other Countries which made up the Eastern Division of the Empire Though perchance by this flourishing Title they pretended a right to the Government of the West upon which vain presumption they assumed also the Title of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Emperors of the World as if they had been true Successors of Augustus and the Western Emperors Usurpers whom they called by way of contempt and indignation 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Reges as Luitprandus informs us in the accompt of his Ambassy to Nicephorus Phocas and afforded the People of Italy no other Title than that of Longobards or Lombards The present Greeks call all the Western Christians 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Latins or Franks the Turks only making use of the latter when they speak civilly of us and calling Christendom Phrenkistan in the present Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The Turks now as proudly call Constantinople Alempena or the Refuge of the World where indeed seems to be a medly of all or most Nations of three parts of it and of all Religions which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the Empire except the Persian For they look upon it as a corruption of and deviation from the Rules and Doctrine of Mahomet their great false Prophet and therefore absolutely forbid it as repugnant to and destructive of the Doctrine of Life and Salvation as they speak And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the Professors of it who pretend to follow Ali as Sectaries and Apostates and entertain worse Opinions of them than of Christians or Jews or Infidels The Persians are not behind-hand with them in their Hatred and Disrespect deriding them as gross and stupid and looking upon them as little less than barbarous Interest and Zeal for their several Tenents heightening their Differences so much that in time of War they destroy one anothers Moschs I remember that there was a great Discourse in Constantinople among the
there From Abiar Alaina to Sath el Akaba that is to say the Plain of the Hill fifteen hours no Water there From Sath el Akaba to Kalaat el Akaba that is to say the Castle of the Hill that 's upon the side of the Red Sea sixteen hours there they stay two days and an half the way is very bad but they have fresh Water From the Castle el Akaba to Dar el Hhamar six hours and an half no Water there Dar el Hhamar signifies Asses Back and it is like the Mountain in Italy where there is an Inn called Scarga l' asino From Dar el Hhamar to Scharafe Benigateie fourteen hours no Water there From Scharafe Benigateie to Magare Chouaib that is to say the Grott of Jethro fourteen hours fresh Water there that is the Country of the Midionites From Magare Chouaib to Eyoun el Kased fourteen hours and an half fresh Water there It was in that place where Jethro's Daughters going to water their Cattel and the Shepherds offering to hinder them Moses protected and defended them against those who would have hindred them to draw Water From Eyoun el Kaseb to Kalaat el Moilah which is by the Sea-side fifteen hours there they rest two days and an half and have fresh Water From Kalaat el Moilah to Castel eleven hours bitter Water there From Castel to Kalaat Ezlem fifteen hours and an half bitter Water there From Kalaat Ezlem to Istanbel antir fourteen hours fresh Water there From Istanbel antir to Kalaat el Voudge that is to say the Castle of the Face thirteen hours and an half fresh Water there From Kalaat el Voudge to Ekre sixteen hours no Water there but what is bitter From Ekre to Hank Krue that is to say Gulf twelve hours and an half no Water there From Hank Krue going to Hhawre they enter into the Territory of Mecha to Hhawre it is thirteen hours only bitter Water there From Hhawre to Nabte fifteen hours fresh Water there From thence come the Nabathean Arabs Eurus ad auroram Nabathaeaque regna recessit From Nabte to Hazire thirteen hours and an half no Water there From Hazire to Yanbouh that is to say Fountain fourteen hours and an half there they stay two days and an half and have fresh Water From Yanbouh to Soucaife thirteen hours no Water there From Soucaif to Beder Hunein that is to say the Moon of Hunein eight hours fresh Water there Hunein was a man that shew'd the Moon in his Well From Beder Hunein to Ssbil el Mouhsin that is to say the way of Benefaction or Benefit fourteen hours fresh Water there Rabii is a Sacred place that is to say not to be enter'd into without being well prepared and purged from all Sin Hence it is that there are two places which are called Haramein Sacred places to wit Mecha and Medina that is to say which are two Holy places where one should take heed not to set his foot unless he be well washed from all Sin From Rabii to Kawdire fifteen hours no Water there From Kawdire to Bi r el fan fourteen hours fresh Water there From Bi r el fan to Vadi fatima fourteen hours fresh Water there From Vadi fatima to Mecha six hours Of the Aga sent to meet the Caravan upon their Return ABout six weeks after the setting out of the Caravan of Caire when they know that it is ready to return from Mecha an Aga goes from Caire to guard the fresh Provisions that the People of the Country send to their Friends and Relations in the Caravan every one sending according to their abilities and Friendship all which are well sealed up and delivered to those they belong unto For this effect the Aga has many Camels with him and gets considerably by the Caravan which he meets half way This year it returned on Tuesday the thirteenth of November and encamped at the Birque where the Caravan of the Magrebins arrived the day before Several come to Caire the same day and their Friends go as far as the Birque to welcome them whereupon meeting they kiss again and again five or six times and all who know them salute and kiss them in the same manner and indeed for some days after there is nothing to be seen in the City but people kissing one another or lamenting their Relations who died in the Journey Men Women and Children who howl and make fearful gestures when they hear the news from the first of the Caravan whom they meet These Pilgrims are forty five days in going and as much in coming back to Caire besides some days they stay there but they make but easie Journeys it being impossible that so great a body should march fast for they must often stop to load the Camels whose loads have fallen off to unload those that fall or die or to bury their Dead and a thousand such other accidents and when one Camel stops all the rest must wait They travel commonly as I said in the night-time with Links that they may avoid the heat In this Journey they find but little Water and that exceeding bad too As for fresh Provisions they find none and eat only what they carry along with them But the worst thing they meet with in the Journey are certain hot Winds which stifle the Breath and in a short time kill a great many people The Prince of Tunis told me that in one day several hundreds died of that Wind and that he himself was much afraid that he should have been one of the number In fine in this Expedition there died six thousand what of Fatigue Thirst and these hot Winds In that Journey People are to be seen riding on Camels and singing Verses of the Alcoran who suddenly fall down dead Those who return with life are so alter'd and extenuated that they can hardly be known and nevertheless vast numbers of People from all parts yearly perform that Pilgrimage and there passes not a year wherein Women and little Children do not make it They who have performed that Journey are called Adgi that is to say Pilgrims meaning though only the Pilgrimage of the Kiaabe and they are much respected by all as long as they live and highly credited The Emir-Adge gains much by this Journey for the Goods of all that dye belong to him besides a vast deal of other profits that he makes on several occasions and it is thought that every Expedition he gets above an hundred thousand Piastres but this year he got above three hundred thousand for many People died The greatest Prerogative of this Office is that during the whole Expedition he is absolute Master of the Field and administers Justice as he thinks fit Having in my hands an exact Description of Mecha and considering that few or no Travellers have spoken of it with any certainty I thought it would not be amiss to add it and make a particular Chapter thereof Of Mecha and Medina
spinosa Park Spinosa Cretica C.B. Ger. Spinosa J.B. Gaidarothymo i. e. Asininum Thymum rusticis Cretensibus Staphis agria in monte Ida passim sponte provenit Bellon v. Cat. gen Stoebe fruticosa latifolia Cretica Park Frutex rotundo argenteo folio Cyani flore C.B. Cyanus fruticosus Creticus Candiae Ponae Ital. Frutex pulcherrimus Bello ep 2. ad Clus Stoebe spinosa Cretica Park Spinosa J.B. Spinosa maritima C.B. Cyanus spinosus Creticus Ponae Alpini Stoebe angustifolia Cretica i. Stoebe capitata Rosmarini foliis Ponae Forte Chamapeuce Alpin exot. Chamae pitys fruticosa Cretica Belli Jacea fruticans Pini folio C.B. Stoebe Plantaginis folio Alpin Park Stratiotes Millefolia Cretica Alpin v. Millefolium T. Teuerium Creticum Clus Park J.B. Creticum incanum C.B. Ex semine è Creta misso Chamaedryos majoris appellatione Clusio enatum est Thlaspi Creticum umbellatum flore albo odorato Park Umbellatum Creticum flore albo odoro minus C.B. Parvum umbellatum flore niveo odorato J.B. Thlaspi clypeatum arborescens Creticum Alpin exot. Park Qu. An non idem sit cum Thlaspi fruticoso altero Lob. aut fruticoso folio Leucoii marini minoris J.B. Thymbra v. Satureia Thymbra Alp. exot. Cretica vera Alpino Park Tithymalus cyparissias Creticus Alpin exot. Tithymalus arboreus Alpin Dendroides ex codice Caesareo Lugd. Dod. In hort Reg. Paris colitur pro distincâ— Ã Tithymalo Dendroide Matthioli specie in Schol. Bot. Par. ponitur Tithymalus maritimus spinosus C.B. Maritiâ—us Creticus spinosus Park An Tithymalus spinosus Creticus Alpin Tragacantha altera feu Poterium densiùs ramificatum Alpin exot. Tragacantha humilior floribus luteis C.B. Tragacantha Alpin exot. Tragacantha Cretensis aut Idaea nigra tota echinata Moris Tragacantha altera Alpin exot. Tragacantha humilior spinosior v. Echinus Tragacantha quarta seu Spartium spinosum alterum Alpin exot. Nec flores nec fructum hujus plantae vidit Alpinus proinde ad quod genus referenda sit certò nequit definiri Tragoriganum Creticum C.B. Park Cretense Ger. quibusdam nigrius folio duro flore purpureo J.B. Trifolium spinosum Creticum C.B. Clus Park Ger. emac. Aculeatum Creticum J.B. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Cretensibus Bell. Trifolium peltatum Creticum C.B. J.B. Odoratum peltatum Creticum Park Rusticis Cretensibus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Bell. Trifolium falcatum Creticum Alpin exot. Anthyllis falcacata Cretica Park V. Valeriana Cretica tuberosa Park Nardus montana Cretica Alpin exot. Nardus Cretica Belli q. v. Nardus Viscaria Cretica maxima Alpini v. Lychnis FINIS A Catalogue of Books Printted for and are to be Sold by Sam. Smith and Benj. Walford at the Prince's Arms in St. Paul's Church-yard 1693. HIstoria Plantarum species hactenus editas aliásque insuper multas noviter inventas descriptas complectens in qua agitur primò de Plantis in genere earúmque partibus accidentibus differentiis deinde genera omnia tum summa tum subalterna ad species usque infinitas notis suis certis Characteristicis definita Methodo Naturae vestigiis insistente disponuntur species singulae accuratè describuntur obscura illustrantur omissa supplentur superflua resecantur Synonyma necessaria adjiciuntur Vires denique usus recepti compendiò traduntur Auctore Joanne Raio è Societate Regia S.S. individuae Trinitatis Collegii apud Cantabrigienses quondam Socio In duobus Tomis Londini Fol. Leonardi Pluckenetii Phytographia sive Plantae quamplurimae novae literis hucusque incognitae ex variis remotissimis provinciis ipsisque Indiis allatae Nomine Iconibus Tabulis aeneis magna cum Industria insigni sanè in Successores beneficio illustratae Tribus Partibus Londini Folio 1692. Observations Topographical Moral and Physiological made in a Journey through part of the Low Countries Germany Italy and France With a Catalogue of Plants not native of England found spontaneously growing in those parts and their Virtues By J. Ray Fellow of the Royal Society Whereunto is added a brief Account of Francis Willughby Esq his Voyage through a great part of Spain London Octavo The Wisdom of God manifested in the Works of the Creation In two Parts viz. The Heavenly Bodies Elements Meteors Fossils Vegetables Animals Beasts Birds Fishes and Insects more particularly in the Body of the Earth its Figure Motion and Consistency and in the admirable Structure of the Body of Man and other Animals as also in their Generation c. By John Ray Fellow of the Royal Society The Second Edition very much enlarged Octavo 1692. Three Discourses concerning the Changes and Dissolution of the World The First of the Creation and Chaos The Second of the general Deluge Fountains formed Stones subterraneous Beds of Shells Earthquakes and other Changes in our terraqueous Globe the third of the general Conflagration Dissolution and means of bringing them to pass of the Future State c. The second Edition corrected and very much enlarged and illustrated with Copper Plates by the same Author London Octavo 1692. Doctissimi ClarissimÃque Gerardi Joannis Vossiâ— ad eum virorum eruditione celeberrimorum Epistolae quas inter centum fermè numerantur Illustriss Guil. Laud Archiep. Cantuar. Jac. Usserii Armach Edw. Pocockii Tho. Farnabii Jo. Meursii Er. Puteani Jo. Fr. Gronovii Pet. Cunaei Gasp Scioppi multa praeclara Theologica Critica Historica Philosophica complexae Opus omnibus Philologiae Ecclesiasticae Antiquitatis studiosis utilissimum Ex Autographis Mss collegit ordine secundùm singula tempora digessit Paulus Colomesius Ecclesiae Anglicanae Presbyter Iterata Editio Rerum Indice uberrimo aucta Lond. Folio 1693. Isaaci Vossii Observationes variae De antiquae Romae magnitudine ut aliarum quarundam Urbium Nini scil Babylonis Thebae Aegyptae Alexandriae Carthaginis Cairo Babylonis Aegypt Urbium Sinensium De Artibus Scientiis Sinarum De Origine Progressu Pulveris bellici De Triremium Liburnicarum Constructione De patefacienda per Septentrionem ad Japonenses Navigatione De Emendatione Longitudinum De apparentibus in Luna Circulis de diurna Telluris Conversione c. Quibus adjungitur ejusdem ad P.R. Simonii Objectiones Responsio Observationum ad Pomp. Melam Appendix adversus Jacobum Gronovium Editio secunda Lon. Quarto 1693. A new History of Aethiopia being a full and accurate Description of the Kingdom of Abessina vulgarly tho erroneously called The Empire of Prester John Illustrated with Copper Plates the Second Edition To which is added a Preface shewing the Usefulness of this History and a Map of the Country By Job Ludolfus Folio FINIS May 18. 19. May 20. 21. 22. May 23. 24. 25. May 26. 27. 28. May 29. May 30. June 1. 2 3 4 5. September 1. 2. Sept. 3. 4. 5 6 7. Sept. 8. 9. 10. Sept. 11. 12. 13. Sept. 14. 15. 16. Sept. the 17. 18. Sept. the 19. 20. 21. 22. Sept. the 23. 24. 25. Sept.
Courage or no wherefore they oftentimes before they are aware of them assault the Christians with rough Words and if they find them to be affraid they laugh at them to boot but if they resist them they give over immediately as soon as they find them in earnest just like some Dogs that sooner bark then bite and esteem him afterwards the more for it and call them brave People that are fit for the War You find also in this Crowd several that are in Orders called Sacquatz which commonly are Pilgrims that have been at Mecha that go about with Skins full of Water and for Charity give to any nay even to the Christians that desire it because the Mahumetans are forbid to drink Wine in their Alcoran Wherefore you see many in their peculiar Habits moved thereunto by Devotion that go all day long among the People to exercise a Work of Love and Charity to those that are thirsty They have in one hand a fine gilded Cup whereinto they power the Water out of their Skins wherein they have commonly laid Chalcedonicks Jaspirs c. Sometimes also delicate tasted Fruit to keep the Water fresh and to recreate the People When they give you to Drink out of it they reach you also a Looking-glass with this Admonition That you shall look your self in it and remember that you are Mortal and must die For this Service they desire nothing of you but if you give them any thing they take it and thank you and spout into your Face and Beard to shew their thankfulness some fragrant Water which they have in Glasses in a great Pouch tip'd with many Brass Clasps The Turks and Arabians also esteem it to be a great Charity and Love if they let their Marble Troughs or great Pots that stand everywhere about their Doors be filled up with fresh Water every day that Travellers or any that are dry may quench their Thirst as they pass by in it hang little Kettles to drink out of If one goes to it others that see him go also and drink rather for Companies sake then to quench their Thirst So you find often a whole Multitude about a Pot. If you have a mind to eat something or to drink other Liquors there is commonly an open Shop near it where you sit down upon the Ground or Carpets and drink together Among the rest they have a very good Drink by them called Chaube Coffee that is almost as black as Ink and very good in illness chiefly that of the Stomach of this they drink in the Morning early in open places before every body without any fear or regard out of China Cups as hot as they can they put it often to their Lips but drink but little at a time and let it go round as they sit In this same Water they take a Fruit called Bunru which in its Bigness Shape and Colour is almost like unto a Bay-berry with two thin Shells surrounded which as they informed me are brought from the Indies but as these in themselves are and have within them two yellowish Grains in two distinct Cells and besides being they agree in their Virtue Figure Looks and Name with the Buncho of Avicen and Bancha of Rasis ad Almans exactly therefore I take them to be the same until I am better informed by the Learned This Liquor is very common among them wherefore there are a great many of them that sell it and others that sell the Berries everywhere in their Batzars They esteem it as highly as we do in our Country Wormwood Wine or that that is prepared with several Herbs and Drugs yet they love Wine better if their Law would allow them to drink it as we have seen in the Reign of the Emperour Selymo when he gave them leave to drink it that they met together daily in Drinking-houses and drunk to one another not only two or three Glasses of strong Wine not mixed with Water but four or five of such as came from Venice to them so quickly one after another with such eagerness as I have often seen it that they would not allow themselves to eat a Morcel or two between it and so as you may easily guess they become to be sordid presently and so Hoggish that they excel all other Nations in it But after Selymus was dead and his Son Amurath succeeded him in his right he immediately forbad them to drink Wine in the very beginning of his Reign and looked after it with such severity that any body that did but smell of Wine was Imprisoned immediately put out of his place and a great Fine put upon him according to his capacity or for want of it punished severely with many Blows under his Soals During this Prohibition it happened that when the Bashaw of Halepo had a mind to go abroad and met in the Court-yard one of his men that was Drunk and perceived it by his staggering he drew his Scimeter and cut off his Head and so left him dead upon the place But yet notwithstanding all this Severity and be it never so peremptorily forbid they do not only not mind such Prohibition chiefly the Renegadoes being very much used to it but long and linger the sooner after it with that eagerness that in the Summer time they use to carry in privately just like the Ants great quantities of Wine and lay up good Stores that they may meet at Night and drink together until they have their Bellies full and so rest after it all Night that they might not smell of Wine the next Day In that time when they were prohibited to drink Wine we Christians fared very well and bought our Wine very cheap until afterwards they had leave to drink it again Their Wines are generally red very good and pleasant they keep it in Skins they are brought to Halepo from several places but chiefly from a famous Town called Nisis which lieth two days Journey distant from it upon the Borders of Armenia The use of Skins is still very great with them as it was in former Ages as we may see by the similitude of Christ when in St. Matthew Chap. 9. Vers 17. he says No man put new wine into c. Seeing that the Christians have leave to drink Wine therefore they sell and buy most of it they also plant it and have whole Villages in their Possessions with abundance of Vineyards But the Turks not being allowed to drink Wine by their Laws do not keep or cultivate many Vineyards and if they do they press the Grapes after several ways for some they make into Cibebs chiefly these People that live in and about Damascus where indeed the best groweth others boyl the Juice of the Grapes up to the consistence of Honey which they call Pachmatz chiefly these that live at Andeb a Town between Bi r and Nisib They have two sorts of this rob one very thick and the other somewhat thinner the former is the best wherefore they put
it up into little Barrels to send into other Countries the latter they use themselves mix it sometimes with Water and give it to drink instead of a Julep to their Servants sometimes they put it into little Cups to dip their Bread in it as if it were Honey and so eat it Besides these they have other sweet Drinks which they prepare out of red Berries called Jujubes or of Cibebs which when boiled in Water with a little Honey the Inhabitants call Hassap and others called still by the old name of Berberis of which they bring great quantities down from Mount Libanus Among other Liquors they have a special one called Tscherbeth which boiled of Honey tasteth like unto our Mead they have another made of Barley or Wheat by the Ancients called Zychus and Curmi these two last make the Turks so merry and elevated that as our Clowns do when they drink Beer they sing and play on their Hautboys Cornets and Kettle Drums which their Musicians make use of every Morning when the Guards are relieved All these Liquors are sold in their great Batzars where they have Baskets full of Ice and Snow all the Summer long whereof they put so much into the Drink that it maketh their Teeth chatter and quake again Thus much I thought convenient to mention of their Liquors or Drinks Concerning their Food their Bread is nourishing and good and so white chiefly at Halepo that none is like it in all Turkey so they have several sorts of it of several shapes and mixtures whereof some are done with Yolks of Eggs some mixt with several sorts of Seeds as of Sesamum Romish Coriander and wild Garden Saffron which is also strowed upon it Meat is cheap with them and very good by reason of the precious Herbs that grow thereabout chiefly upon Mount Tauri which extendeth itself very far Eastwards from whence they have abundance of Cattel as Rams Weathers and Sheep with broad and fat Tails whereof one weigheth several Pounds They have also great store of Goats which they drive daily in great Numbers through that City to sell their Milk which every one that hath a mind to it drinks warm in the open Streets among them there are some that are not very big but have Ears two foot long so that they hang down to the Ground and hinder them from feeding when one of them is cut off which is commonly done they turn themselves always upon that side that the other Ear may not hinder them from feeding They have no want of Beefes and Bufles for they are very common there and the Butchers kill the Beasts in the Fields without Town where they have their Slaughter-houses thereabout are a great many Dogs that live of the Offels and have their young ones in Holes and Cliffs where they bring them up and these become so Ravenous and Wild that they run about in the Night after their Prey as I am informed like Wolffs in our Country And this may very well be for the Turks do not only not kill any Dogs but rather carry them home when they are young and there feed them till they are grown up and able to shift for themselves and they believe that they do a deed of Charity that is very acceptable to God Almighty like unto the Divines in the Indies called Banians which serve the Birds in the same manner as these do the Dogs and Cats These Wolves are more like to our Dogs both in Shape and Bigness and so says Pliny that the Wolves in Aegypt are less and lasier then these towards the North being there are no Inns in Turkey where as with us Travellers may Lodge and have their Diet therefore there is a great many Cake-shops kept in the Batzars where all manner of Victuals are cleanly dressed viz. Butchers Meat Fouls and all sorts of Sauces and Broths and Soups where every body buys what he hath a mind to according to the capacity of his Purse Among the rest nothing is so common as Rice which they boyl up to such a stiffness that it crumbleth A great many other sorts you shall see in Copper Basons upon their Shop-boards prepared after the same way amongst the rest peculiarly a very common one called Bnuhourt made of Barley and Wheat which were first broke on a Mill and perhaps dryed and so boyled with or without Milk into a thick Pap. Dioscorides in the 83d Chapter of his Second Book maketh mention of this by the name of Crimnon and also Avicen and Rhasas ad Almans in Synonymis calleth it Sanguick and Savick The Turks provide themselves with good store of this chiefly in War-time by Water and by Land that when they want Provision they may make use of it instead of Bread Besides these they have more Dishes amongst them I remember one called Trachan when it is dressed it is so tough that you may draw it out like Glue this they make up into little pieces which being dryed will keep good a great while and is very good and pleasant Food after it is boyled wherefore they lay up great Stores of this in their strong Fortifications as we do of Corn that in case of necessity they may eat it instead of Bisquets or other Food That such sorts of Foods by the Latinists called Pùls have been very well known to the Ancients and that in case of necessity they use to make a shift with it Pliny testifieth in his Eighteenth Book and the Eighth Chapter They have also all manner of Poultry in great plenty viz. Pullen Snipes Partridges with red Bills Woodcocks c. but very few Fishes because they have only a small Rivolet which is full of Turtles so that at Halepo they are very scarce Neither do they esteem them much because most of them drink Water instead of Wine which is prohibited by their Law wherefore there are but very few brought thither from foreign places as Antiochia and the great River Euphrates c. distant from thence two or three miles Besides this they have little By-dishes as Kal Colliflowers Carrots Turneps French-Beans Besides Trees and Codded Fruits and many more but yet they are not so well skilled in the dressing of them as we are in our Country Lastly They put also up with their Cheese Cibebs Almonds dryed Cicers Pistachio's and crack'd Hasel-nuts which although they are carried thither from our Country are better tasted and pleasanter than ours They have many sorts of Preserves very well done with Sugar and Hony very artificially chiefly those they carry about to sell upon Plates very well garnish'd made up and set out with several Colours and Shapes very beautiful to behold For the rest they live very sparingly and bring the Year round with small and little Expences for they do not make so great Feasts nor have so many Dishes nor bestow so great Cost as we do in our Country In these Eastern Countries they eat upon the plain Ground and when it is Dinner-time