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A41427 The English-American, his travail by sea and land, or, A new survey of the West-India's containing a journall of three thousand and three hundred miles within the main land of America ... : also, a new and exact discovery of the Spanish navigation to those parts ... : with a grammar, or some few rediments of the Indian tongue called Poconchi, or Pocoman / by the true and painfull endeavours of Thomas Gage ... 1648. Gage, Thomas, 1603?-1656. 1648 (1648) Wing G109; ESTC R22621 392,970 244

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in it two rich Colonies called Pamico and St. Iames in the valleys The third Province of Mexico is called Mechoacan which containeth in circuit fourscore leagues It is also an exceeding rich countrey abounding in Mulberry trees silk hony wax black-amber works of divers coloured feathers most rich rare and exquisite and such store of fish that from thence it tooke its name Mechuoucan which signifieth a place of fishing The language of the Indians is most elegant and copious and they tall strong active and of very good wits as may be seen in all their workes but especially in those of feathers which are so curious that they are presented for rich presents to the King and Nobles of Spaine The chiefe City of this Province is Valladolid a Bishopsseat and the best Townes are Sinsonte which was the residence of the Kings of this countrey There is also Pascuar and Colima very great Townes inhabited by Indians and Spaniards There are also two good havens called St. Anthony and St. Iames or Santiago This country of Mechoacan was almost as great as the Empire of Mexico when Cortez conquered those parts The King that was then of Mechoacan was called Caconzin who was a great friend unto Cortez and a servitor to the Spaniards and willingly yeelded himselfe as vassall to the King of Spaine yet such was the cruelty of Don Nunio de Guzman the first Ruler and President of the Chancery of Mexico after the conquest that understanding he was put out of his office he tooke his journey against the Teuchichimecas and carried in his company five hundred Spaniards with whom and six thousand Indians which by force he tooke out of Mechoacan he conquered Xalixco which is now called the new Galicia And as for this purpose hee passed through Mechoacan he tooke prisoner the King Caconzin who was quiet and peaceable and stirred not against him and tooke from him ten thousand markes of plate and much gold and other treasure and afterwards burned him and many other Indidian Gentlemen and principall persons of that Kingdome because they should not complaine saying that a dead dog biteth not They were in this Kingdome as superstitious and idolatrous as in the rest of America No divorcement was permitted amongst them except the party made a solemn oath that they looked not the one on the other stedfastly and directly at the time of their marriage In the burying likewise of their Kings they were superstitious cruell and Idolatrous When any King of Mechoacan happened to be brought to such extremity of sicknesse that hope of life was past then did he name and appoint which of his sons should inherit the state and Crown and being known the new King or heir presently sent for all the Governours Captains and valiant souldiers who had any office or charge to come unto the buriall of his father and he that came not from thenceforth was held for a Traitour and so punished When the death of the old King was certaine then came all degrees of estates and did bring their presents to the new King for the approbation of his Kingdome But if the King were not throughly dead but at the point of death then the gates were shut in and none permitted to enter and if he were throughly dead then be gan a generall cry and mourning and they were permitted to come where their dead King lay and to touch him with their hands This being done the carkasse was washed with sweet waters and then a fine shirt put upon him and a payre of sho●… amde of Dear skinne put on his feet and about his ankle●… were tied bell●… of gold about the wrists of his hands were put bracelet●… of Turkis●…s and of gold likewise about his neck they did hang collars of pretious stones and also of gold and rings in his eares with a great Turkise in his neither lip Then his body was laid upon a large Beere whereon was placed a good bed under him on his one side lay a bow with a quiver of arrowes and on his other side lay an Image made of fine 〈◊〉 of his own stature or bignesse with a great ruffe of fine feathers shooes upon his fee●… with bracelets and a collar of gold While this was a doing others were bus●…●…n washing the men and women which should be slain for to accompany him into h●…ll These wretches that were to be slain were first banqueted and filled with drink●… 〈◊〉 they should receive their death with lesse paine The new King did appoint those who should die for to serve the King his father and many of those s●…ple soules esteemed that death so odious for a thing of immortall glory First six Gentlewomen of noble birth were appointed to die the one to have the office of keeper of his jewels which he was wont to weare another for the office of cup-bearer another to give him water with a bason and Ewer another to give him alwaies the Urinall another to be his Cooke and another to serve for Landress They slew also many women slaves and free-maidens for to attend upon the Gentlewomen and moreover one of every occupation within the City When all these that were appointed to die were washed and their bellies full with meat and drinke then they painted their faces yellow and put garlands of sweet flowers upon each of their heads Then they went in order of procession before the Beere whereon the dead King was carried some went playing on instruments made of Snail shells and others played upon bones and shells of Sea Tortois others went whistling and the most part weeping The sons of the dead King and other Noble men carried upon their shoulders the Beere where the Corps lay and proceeded with an easie pace towards the Temple of the God called Curicaveri his kinsmen went round about the Beer singing a sorrowfull song The officers and houshold-servants of the Court with other Magistrates and Rulers of justice bare the Standards and divers other Arms. And about midnight they departed in the order aforesaid out of the Kings Palace with great light of fire-brands and with a heavy noyse of their trumpets and drummes The Citizens which dwelt where the Corse passed attended to make clean the street And when they were come to the Temple they went four times round about a great fire which was prepared of Pine tree to burn the dead body Then the Beer was laid upon the fire and in the meane while that the body was burning they mawled with a club those which had the garlands and afterward buried them four and four as they were apparelled behind the Temple The next day in the morning the ashes bones and jewels were gathered and laid upon a rich mantle the which was carried to the Temple gate where the Preists attended to blesse those divellish reliques whereof they made a dow or paste and thereof an Image which was apparelled like a man with a visor on his face and all other sorts of
jewels that the dead King was wont to weare so that it seemed a gallant Idoll At the foot of the Temple staires they opened a grave ready made which was square large two fadome deepe it was also hanged with new mats round about and a faire bed therein in the which one of the Preists placed the Idoll made of ashes with his eyes towards the East part and did hang round about the walls Targets of gold and silver with bowes and arrows and many gallant tuffes of feathers with earthen vessels as pots dishes and platters so that the grave was filled up with houshold-stuffe chests covered with leather apparell Jewels meate drinke and armour This done the grave was shut up and made sure with beames boardes and floored with earth on the top All those Gentlemen who had served or touched any thing in the buriall washed themselves and went to dinner in the Court or yard of the Kings house without any table and having dined they wiped their hands upon certain lockes of Cotton-wooll hanging downe their heads and not speaking any word except it were to aske for drinke This ceremonie endured five daies and in all that time no fire was permitted to be kindled in the City except in the Kings house and Temples nor yet any corne was ground or market kept nor any durst goe out of their houses shewing all the sorrow that might be possible for the death of their King And this was the superstitious manner of burying the Kings of Mechoacan This people did punish adultery most rigorously for to commit it was death as well for the man as the wom●…n But if the adulterer were a Gentleman his head was decked with feathers and after that he was hanged and his body burned and for this offence was no pardon either for man or woman But for avoiding of adultery they did permit other common wom●…n but no publike and ordinary stewes Now the Indians of Mechoacan are greatly taken with the popish devices and are strong in that religion as any part of America The fourth and last Province of the Countrey or Empire of Mexico is called Galicia nova and is watered with two very great rivers the one named Piastle and the other San S●…stian This Province glorieth in many great Townes of Indians but especially in ●…ix inhabited both by Indians and Spaniards the first and chiefest is Xalisco taken by Nunio d●… Guzman 1530. when he fled from Mexico in a rage and tooke prisoner and burned the King of Mecho●… The second is Guadalaiara The third Coanum The fourth Compostel●… The fifth St. Espirit The sixth Copala which now is called Nova Mexico new Mexico And here it is that the Spaniards are daily warring against the Indians which live Northward and are not as yet reduced nor brought under the Spanish yoake and government They are valiant Indians and hold the Spaniards hard to it and have great advantage against them in the rocks and mountaines where they abide and cut off many Spaniards Their chief weapons are but bowes and arrowes and yet with them from the thick Woods hils and rockes they annoy and offend the Spaniards exceedingly I have heard some Spaniards say that they flie and climbe up the rocks like Goates and when they draw nigh unto them then they cry out with a hideous noise shooting their arrowes at them and in an instant are departed and fled unto another rock The reson why the Spaniards are so earnest to pursue and conquer these Indians more then many others of America which as yet are not brought in subjection to the Spaniards is for the many Mines of silver and treasure of gold which they know to bee there They have got already sure possession o●… part of those riches in the Mines called St. Lewis Sacatecas from whence they send all the silver that is coyned in the Mint houses of Mexico and the City of Angels and every yeere besides to Spain in silver wedges at least six Millions But the further the Spaniards goe to the North still more riches they discover and faine would they subdue all those Northern parts as I have heard them say lest our English from Virginia and their other plantations get in before them I have heard them wonder that our English enter no further into the maine land surely say they either they feare the Indians or else with a little paultry Tobacco they have as much as will maintaine them in lazinesse Certainly they intend to conquer through those heathenish Indians untill by land they come to Florida and Virginia for so they boast if they bee not met with by some of our Northern Nations of Europe who may better keep them off then those poor Indians and may doe God greater and better service with those rich Mines then the Spaniards hitherto have done Thus having spoken somewhat of the foure Provinces of Mexico which was the first member of the division Mexican and Peruan Now I shall briefly say somewhat further of three more Countries belonging to the Mexican or Northern Tract as opposite to the Peruan omiting Florida Virginia Norumbega Nova Francia Corterialis and Estotilandia because I will not write as many doe by relation and hearsay but by more sure intelligence insight and experience In my first division next to Mexico I placed Quivira I●…eatan and Nicaragua of these three therefore I shall say a little and then somewhat of the Peruan part Quivira is seated on the most Western part of America just over against Tartary from whence being not much distant some suppose that the Inhabitants first came into this new World And indeed the Indians of America in many things seeme to bee of the race and progenie of the Tartars in that Quivira and all the Westside of the Country towards Asia is farre more populous then the East towards Europe which sheweth these parts to have been first inhabited Secondly their uncivility and barbarous properties tell us that they are most like the Tartars of any Thirdly the West side of America if it bee not continent with Tartary is yet disjoyned by a small straight Fourthly the people of Quivira neerest to Tartary are said to follow the seasons and pasturing of their cattell like the Tartarians All this side of America is full of herbage and injoyeth a temperate aire The people are desirous of glasse more then of gold and in some places to this day are Cannibals The chief riches of this Country are their Kine which are to them as we say of our Ale to drunkards meat drink and cloth and more too For the Hides yeeld them houses or at least the coverings of them their bones bodkins their hair thred their finews ropes their horns mawes and bladders vessels their dung fire their Calve skinnes budgets to draw and keepe water their blood drink their flesh meat There is thought to bee some traffique from China or Cathaya hither to those parts where as yet the Spaniards have not entred For
when Uazquez de Coronado conquered some part of it hee saw in the further Sea certaine ships not of common making which seemed to bee well laden and bare in their prowes Pelicans which could not bee conjectured to come from any Country but one of these two In Quivira there are but two Provinces knowne unto us which are Cibola and Nova Albion Cibola lyeth on the Eastside whose chief City is of the same name and denominates the whole Province The chief Town next to Cibola is called Totontaa which is temperate and pleasant being situated upon a River so called The third Town worth mentioning is called Tinguez which was burnt by the Spaniards who under the conduct of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado made this Province subject to the King of Spain Anno Dom. 1540. And since this Town of Tinguez hath been rebuilt and inhabited by the Spaniards There is a goodly Colledge of Jesuites who only preach to the Indians of that country Nova Albion lyeth on the West side towards Tartary and is very little inhabited by the Spaniards who have found no wealth or riches there Our ever Renowned and Noble Captain Sir Francis Drake discovered it entred upon it and hee named it Nova Albion because the King that then was did willingly submit himself unto our Queen Elizabeth The Country abounds with fruits pleasing both the eye and the Palate The people are given to hospitality but withall to witchcraft and adoration of devils The bounds between this Quivira and Mexico Empire is Mar Virmiglio or Californio The third Kingdome belonging to the Mexican part and Northern Tract is Iucatan which was first discovered by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova in the year 1517. It is called Iucatan not as some have conceited from Ioctan the son of Heber who they thinke came out of the East where the Scripture placeth him Gen. 12. 23. to inhabite here but from Iucatan which in the Indian tongue fignifieth what say you for when the Spaniards at their first arriving in that Country did aske of the Indians the name of the place the Savages not understanding what they meaned replyed unto them Iucatan which is what say you whereupon the Spaniards named it and ever since have called it Iucatan The whole Country is at least 900. miles in circuit and is a Peninsul●… It is situated over against the Isle of Cuba and is divided into three parts first Iucatan it selfe whose Cities of greatest worth are Campeche Ualladolid Merida Simaricas and one which for his greatnesse and beauty they call Caire This Country among the Spaniards is held to bee poor the chief Commodities in it are hony wax Hides and some Sugar but no Indigo Cochinil nor Mines of silver There are yet some drugs much esteemed of by the Apothecaries Cana fistula Zarzaparilla especially and great store of Indian Maiz. There is also abundance of good Wood and Timber fit for shipping whereof the Spaniards doe make very strong ships which they use in their voiages to Spain and back again In the yeer 1632. the Indians of this Country in many places of it were like to rebell against their Spanish Governour who vexed them sorely making them bring in to him their Fowles and Turkies whereof there is also great abundance and their hony and wax wherein hee traded at the rate and price which hee pleased to set them for his better advantage which was such a disadvantage to them that to enrich him they impoverished themselves and so resolved to betake themselves to the Woods and Mountaines where in a rebellious way they continued some Months untill the Franciscan Fryers who have there great power over them reduced them back and the Governour lest hee should quite lose that Country by a further rebellion granted to them not onely a generall pardon in the Kings name but for the future promised to use them more mildly and gently The second part of it is called Guatemala wherein I lived for the space of almost twelve yeers whose Inhabitants have lost formerly halfe a million of their kinsmen and friends by the unmercifull dealing of the Spaniards and yet for all the losse of so many thousands there is no part of America more flourishing then this with great and populous Indians Townes They may thank the Fryers who defend them daily against the Spaniards cruelty and this yet for their owne ends for while the Indians flourish and increase the Fryers purses flourish also and are filled This Country is very fresh and plentifull The chief Cities are Guatemala Cassuca and Chiapa whereof I shall speak more largely hereafter The third part of Iucatan is Acasamil which is an Island over against Guatemala which is now commonly called by the Spaniards Sta. Cruz whose chief Towne is Sta. Cruz. The fourth and last Country of the division of the Mexican part and Northern Tract of America which is under the Spanish Government and my best knowledge and e●…perience is Nicaragua which standeth South East from Mexico and above foure hundred and fifty leagues from it Yet it agreeth somewhat with Mexico in nature both of soile and Inhabitants The people are of good stature and of colour indifferent white They had before they received Christianity a setled and politick forme of Government Onely as S●…n appointed no Law for a mans killing of his father so had this people none for the murtherer of a King both of them conceiting that men were not so unnaturall as to commit such crimes A theef they judged not to death but adjudged him to be slave to that man whom hee had robbed till by his service hee had made satistaction a course truely more mercifull and not lesse just then the losse of life This Countrey is so pleasing to the eye and abounding in all things necessary that the Spaniards call it Mahomets Paradise Among other flourishing trees here groweth one of that nature that a man cannot touch any of its branches but it withereth presently It is as plentifull of Parrets as our Countrey of England is of Crowes Turkies Fowles Quailes and Rabbets are ordinary meat there There are many populous Indian Townes though not so many as about Guatemala in this Countrey and especially two Cities of Spaniards the one Leon a Bishops Seat and the other Granada which standeth upon a Lake of fresh water which hath above three hundred miles in compasse and having no intercourse with the Ocean doth yet continually ebbe and flow But of this Countrey and of this City especially I shall say somewhat more when I come to speake of my travailing through it Thus I have briefly touched upon the Mexican part and so much of the Northern Tract as is under the King of Spain his Dominion leaving more particulars untill I come to shew the order of my being in and journeying through some of these Countries I will now likewise give you a glimpse of the Southern Tract and Peruan part of America Which containeth chiefly five great Countries or
from Spain with subordination unto the Court of Guatemala The head or shire Town of it is called Coban where is a Cloister of Dominican Friers and the common place of Residence of the Alcalde Maior All this Country as yet is not subdued by the Spaniards who have now and then some strong encounters with the barbarous and heathen people which lie between this Country and Iucatan and faine would the Spaniards conquer them that they might make way through them unto a Town called Campin belonging to Iucatan and settle commerce and Traffique by land with that Country which is thought would bee a great furtherance to the Country and City of Guatemala and a safer way to convey their goode to the Havana then by the Golf for oftentimes the ships that goe from the Golf to the Havana are met with by the Hollanders and surprised But as yet the Spaniards have not been able to bring to passe this their design by reason they have found strong resistance from the heathenish people and a hot service to attempt the conquering of them Yet there was a Fryer a great acquaintance of mine called Fryer Franciseo Moran who ventured his life among those barbarians and with two or three Indians went on foot through that Country untill he came unto Campin where he found a few Spaniards who wondred at his courage and boldnesse in comming that way This Fryer came back again to Coban and Vera Paz relating how the barbarians hearing him speake their language and finding him kind loving and curteous to them used him also kindly fearing as hee said that if they should kill him the Spaniards would never let them bee at rest and quiet untill they had utterly destroyed them Hee related when he came back that the Country which the Barbarians inhabite is better then any part of the Vera Paz which is subject to the Spaniards and spoke much of a Valley where is a great lake and about it a Towne of Indians which hee judged to bee of at least twelve thousand Inhabitants the Cottages lying in a distance one from another This Fryer hath writ of this Country and hath gone to Spain to the Court to motion the conquering of it for the profit and commodity that may ensue both to Guatemala and Iucatan i●… a way were opened thither But though as yet on that side the Spaniards and the Country of the Vera Paź bee straightned by that heathenish people yet on the other side it hath free passage unto the Golf and trade there when the ships doe come carrying Fowles and what other Provision the Country will afford for the ships and bringing from thence wines and other Spanish wares unto Coban This Country is very hilly and craggy and though there bee some bigge Townes in it they are not above three or foure that are considerable The chief commodities are Achiotte which is the best of all the Country belonging to Guatemala and Cacao Cotton Wooll hony Canna fistula and Zarzaparilla great store of Maiz but no Wheat much waxe plenty of fowles and birds of all coloured feathers wherewith the Indians make some curious works but not like unto those of Mechoacan here are also abundance of Parrets Apes and Monkies which breed in the Mountaines The way from Guatemala to this Country is that which hitherto hath beene spoken of from the Golf as far as the Town of St. Luke and from thence the way keeps on the hils and mountaines which lie on the side of the Valley of Mixco These hils are called Sacatepeques compounded of Sacate and Tepec the latter signifying a hill and the former herbe or grasse and thus joyned they signifie mountaines of grasse and among them are these chief Townes first Santiago or St. Iames a Town of five hundred Families secondly San Pedro or St. Peter consisting of six hundred families thirdly St. Iuan or St. Iohn consisting also of at least six hundred Families and fourthly Sto Dominge Senano or St. Dominic of Senaco being of three hundred Families These foure Towns are very rich and the two last very cold the two first are warmer there are about them many Farmes of corn and good Wheat besides the Indian Maiz. These Indians are somewhat of more courage then those of other Townes and in my time were like to rise up against the Spaniards for their unmercifull tyranny over them The Churches are exceeding rich in the Towne of Santiago there was living in my time one Indian who for onely vaine-glory had bestowed the worth of six thousand Duckates upon that Church and yet afterwards this wretch was found to bee a Wizard and Idolater These Indians get much mony by letting out great tuffes of feathers which the Indians use in their dances upon the feasts of the Dedication of their towns For some of the great tuffes may have at least threescore long feathers of divers colours for every feather hiring they have halfe a Riall besides what price they set to every feather if any should chance to be lost From the Town of St. Iohn which is the furthest the way lies plain and pleasant unto a little village of some twenty Cottages called St. Raymundo or St. Raymond from whence there is a good dayes journy up and down Barrancas or bottomes unto a Rancho or lodge standing by a River side which is the same River that passeth by the Town of Acacabastlan spoken of before From this is an ascent or a very craggy and rocky Mountaine called the Mountaine of Rabinall where are steps cut out in the very Rockes for the mules feet and slipping on one or the other side they fall surely downe the rockes breaking their neckes and mangling all their limbes and joynts but this dauger continueth not long nor extendeth above a league and a half and in the top and worst of this danger there is the comfort of a goodly Valley called El Valle de San Nicholas St. Nicholas his Valley from an Estancia called St. Nicholas belonging to the Dominicans Cloister of Coban This Valley though it must not compare with that of Mixco and Pinola yet next after it it may well take place for onely three things considerable in it The first is an Ingenis of Sugar called San Geronymo or St. Hierome belonging unto the Dominicans Cloister of Guatemala which indeed goeth beyond that spoken of of Amatitlan both for abundance of Sugar made there and sent by mules to Guatemala over that rocky Mountaine and for multitude of slaves living in it under the command of two Fryers and for the excellent horses bred there which are incomparably the best of all the Country of Guatemala for metle and gallantry and therefore though mules are commonly used for burthens are much desired and looked after by the Gallants and Gentry of the City who make it a great part of their honour to prance about the streets The second thing in this Valley is the Estanci●… or Farm of St Nicolas which is as famous
skulles and found a hundred thirty and six thousand skulles on the poles staves and steps The other Towers were replenished out of number and there were men appointed that when one skull fell to set up another in his place so that the number might never want But all these Towers and Idols were pulled down and consumed with fire when the Spaniards wanne that City And certainly they had beene more renowned in destroying those Altars of the devill and those Idoll Gods if in their stead they had not set up new Idols and Saints of stockes and stones and built unto them as many more Churches as they found at their comming thither All therefore that hath been mentioned hitherto of Montezuma his houses and Gardens of the spacious Market place and Temples of that City was utterly destroyed and brought downe to the very ground But Cortez reedified it againe not onely for the situation and majesty but also for the name and great fame thereof Hee divided it among the Conquerours having first taken out places for Churches Market places Towne house and other necessary plots to build houses profitable for the Common-wealth Hee separated the dwellings of the Spaniards from the Indians so that now the water passeth and maketh division betwixt them Hee promised to them that were naturalls of the City of Mexico p●…otts to build upon inheritance freedome and other liberties and the like unto all those that would come and inhabit there which was a meanes to allure many thither Hee set also at liberty Xihuaco the Generall Captaine and made him chief over the Indians in the City unto whom hee gave a whole street He gave likewise another street to Don Pedro Montezuma who was sonne to Montezuma the King All this was done to winne the favour of the people Hee made other Gentlemen Seniors of little 〈◊〉 and streets to build upon and to inhabit and in this order the whole situation was reparted and the work began with great joy and diligence And when the fame was blowne abroad that Mexico should bee built again it was a won●… to ●…et the people that resorted thither hearing of liberty and freedome The number was so great that in three miles compasse was nothing but people men and women They laboured ●…ore and did eate little by reason whereof many sickned and pestilence ensued whereof died an infinite number Their paines was great for they ●…re on their backes and drew after them stones earth timber lyme brick and all other things necessary in this sort And by little and little Mexico was built againe with a hundred thousand houses more strong and better then the old building was The Spaniards built their houses after the Spanish fashion and Cortez built his house upon the plot where Montezuma his house ●…ood which renteth now yeerely foure thousand duckats and is called now the Palace of the Marques Del Valle the King of Spain having conferred upon Cortez and his heires this title from the great Valley of Guaxaca This Palace is so stately that as I have observed before seven thousand beames of Cedar Trees were spent in it They built faire Dockes covered over with Arches for the Vergantines which Dockes for a perpetuall memory doe remaine untill this day They dammed up the streets of water where now faire houses stand so that Mexico is not as it was wont to bee and especially since the yeare 1634. the water cometh not by farre so neere the City as it was wont to come The Lake sometimes casteth out a vapour of stench but otherwise it is a wholesome and temperate dwelling by reason of the Mountaines that stand round about it and well provided through the fertility of the Countrey and commodity of the Lake So that now is Mexico one of the greatest Cities in the World in extention of the situation for Spanish and Indian houses Not many yeeres after the Conquest it was the Noblest City in all India as well in Armes as Policy There were formerly at the least two thousand Citizens that had each of them his horse in his stable with rich furniture for them and Armes in readinesse But now since all the Indians farre and neer are subdued and most of them especially about Mexico consumed and there is no feare of their rising up any more against the Spaniards all armes are forgotten and the Spaniards live so secure from enemies that there is neither Gate Wall Bulwarke Platforme Tower Armory Ammunition or Ordnance to secure and defend the City from a Domestick or forraine enemy from the latter they thinke St. Iohn de Ulhua sufficient and strong enough to secure them But for Contractation it is one of the richest Cities in in the World to the which by the North Sea commeth every yeer from Spain a Fleet of neere twenty ships laden with the best Commodities not onely of Spain but of the most parts of Christendome And by the South Sea it enjoyeth Traffique from all parts of Peru and above all it Trades with the East-India's and from thence receiveth the Commodities as well from those parts which are inhabited by Portingals as from the Countries of Iapan and China sending every yeere two great Caracas with two smaller Vessels to the Islands of Philippinas and having every yeere a returne of such like ships There is also in Mexico a Mint house where Money is dayly coyned and is brought thither in wedges upon Mules from the Mines called St. Lewis de Sacatecas standing fourescore Leagues from Mexico Northward and yet from Sacatecas forward have the Spaniards entred above a hundred Leagues conquering daily Indians where they discover store of Mines and there they have built a City called Nova Mexico new Mexico The Indians there are great Warriers and hold the Spaniards hard to it It is thought the Spaniard will not bee satisfied untill hee subdue all the Country that way which doubtlesse reacheth to our plantations of Virginia and the rest being the same continued continent la●…d There is yet more in Mexico a faire schoole which now is made an University which the Viceroy Don Antonio De Mendoza caused to be built At the rebuilding of this City there was a great difference betwixt an Inhabitant of Mexico and a Conquerour for a Conquerour was a name of honour and had lands and rents given him and to his posterity by the King of Spain and the Inhabitant or onely dweller payed rent for his house And this hath filled all those parts of America with proud Dons and Gentlemen to this day for every one will call himselfe a descendent from a Conquerour though hee bee as poore as Iob and aske him what is become of his Estate and fortune hee will answer that fortune hath taken it away which shall never take away a Don from him Nay a poore Cobler or Carrier that r●…ns about the Countrey farre and neere getting his living with half a dozen Mules if hee bee called Mendoza or Guzman will sweare that
miles and enjoyneth a temperate aire a fertill soile rich mines and trades much in Ambar Sugar Ginger Hides and Wax It is reported for certaine that here in twenty daies herbes will ripen and roots also and be fit to be eaten which is a strong argument of the exact temperature of the aire It yeeldeth in nothing to Cuba but excelleth it in three things especially first in the finenesse of the gold which is here more pure and unmixed secondly in the increase of the Sugar one Sugar Cane here silling twenty and sometimes thirty measures and thirdly in the goodnesse of the soile for tillage the corne here yeelding an hundred fold This fertility is thought to be caused by four great rivers which water and enrich all the four quarters of the Island all four doe spring from one only mountaine which standeth in the very midst and center of the Country Iuna running to the East Artihinnacus to the West Iacchus to the North and Naihus to the South This Countrey is ●…o replenished with Swine and Cattell that they become wild among the woods and Mountaines so that the ships that saile by this Island and want provision goe here a shore where it is little inhabited and kill of Cattell wild swine and bores till they have made up a plentifull provision Much of this Countrey is not inhabited by reason that the Indians are quite consumed The chief places in it are first St. Domingo where there is a Spanish President and Chancery with six Judges and the other officers belonging to it and it is the Seat of an Archbishop who though hee enjoy not so much yeerly rent and revenues as other Archbishops especially they of Mexico and Lima yet hee hat●… 〈◊〉 honour above all the rest for that hee is the primate of all the India's this Island having been conquered before the other parts and so bearing antiquity above them all There are also other rich Townes of trading as Sta. Isabella S. Thome S. Iohn Maragna and Por●…o And thus hath my pen run over Sea and Land Islands and most of the Continent that is subject to the Spaniards to shew thee my Reader the state of America at this time It is called America because Americus Vespusius first discovered it though afterwards Columbus gave us the first light to discern these Countries both by example and directions Besides the factions spoken of before between the Native Spaniards and those that come from Spain there is yet further in most parts of it but especially in Peru a deadly faction and mortall hatred between the Biscains and the Spaniards of Castile and Estremadura which hath much shaken the quiet state of it and threatned it with rebellion and destruction There are in all America foure Archbishopricks which are Sto. Domingo Mexico Lima and Sta. Fee and above thirty inferiour Bishops The politick Administration of Justice is chiefly committed to the two Viceroyes residing at Lima and Mexico and with subordination unto them unto other Presidents Governours and high Justices called Alcaldes Majores except it be the President of Guatemala and of Santo Domingo who are as absolute in power as the Viceroyes and have under them Governours and high Justices and are no wayes subordinate to the former Viceroyes but onely unto the Court and Councell of Spain CHAP. XIII Shewing my journey from Mexico to Chiapa Southward and the most remarkable places in the way HAving now gone round America with a brief and superficiall description of it my desire is to shew unto my Reader what parts of it I travailed through and did abide in observing more particularly the state condition strength and Commodities of those Countries which lie Southward from Mexico It is further my desire nay the chief ground of this my History that whilst my Country doth here observe an English man become American travailing many thousand miles there as may bee noted from St. Iohn de Ulhua to Mexico and from thence Southward to Panama and from thence Northward againe to Carthagena and to Havana Gods goodnesse may bee admired and his providence extolled who suffered not the meanest and unworthiest of all his Creatures to perish in such unknowne Countries to be swalled by North or South Sea where shipwracks were often feared to bee lost in Wildernesses where no tongue could give directions to bee devoured by Wolves Lions Tigers or Crocodiles which there so much abound to fall from steepy rocks and mountaines which seeme to dwell in the aereall Region and threaten with fearefull spectacles of deep and profound precipices a horrid and inevitable death to those that climbe up to them to bee eaten up by the greedy Earth which there doth often quake and tremble and hath sometimes opened her mouth to draw in Townes and Cities to bee stricken with those fiery darts of Heaven and thunderbolts which in winter season threaten the Rockes and Cedars to bee inchanted by Satans Instruments Witches and Sorcerers who there as on their own ground play their prankes more then in the parts of Christendome to be quite blinded with Romish Errors and Superstitions which have double blinded the purblind heathenish Idolaters to bee wedded to the pleasures and licentiousnesse which doe there allure to bee glutted with the plenty and dainties of fish flesh fowles and fruits which doe there entice to bee pufled up with the spirit of pride and powerfull command and authority over the poor Indians which doth there provoke to bee tied with the Cords of vanity and ambition which there are strong and finally to be glewed in heart and affection to the dresse of gold silver Pearls and Jewels whose plenty there doth bind blind captivate and enslave the soule Oh I say let the Lords great goodnesse and wonderfull providence bee observed who suffered not an English stranger in all these dangers to miscarry but was a guide unto him there in all his travailes discovered unto him ●…o the espies in Canaan and as to Ioseph in Egypt the provision wealth and riches of that world and safely guided him back to relate to England the truth of what no other English eye did ever yet behold From the moneth of October untill February I did abide with my friends and companions the Fryers under the command of Fryer Calvo in that house of recreation called St. Iacintho and from thence injoyed the sight of all the Townes and of what else was worth the seeing about Mexico But the time I was there I was carefull to informe my self of the state of Philippinas whither my first purposes had drawne me from Spain It was my fortune to light upon a Fryer and an acquaintance of some of my friends who was that yeer newly come from Manila whither I was going who wished mee and some other of my friends as wee tendred our soules good never to goe to those parts which were but snares and trap-dores to let downe to hell where occasions and temptations to sinne were daily many in number
we began to shake off all fear and would no more like Bats and Owles fly in the night but that we might with more pleasure enjoy the prospect of that valley and of the rest of the Countrey we travailed by day yet still crossing the Countrey we went from thence towards another valley called the valley of St. Pablo or Pauls valley which though it be not as big as the valley of Atlisco yet is held to be a richer valley for here they enjoy a double harvest of wheat every yeer The first seed they sow is watered and growes with the common season raine and the second seed which they sow in summer as soone as their first harvest is in when the season of raine is past they water with many Springs which fall into that Valley from the mountaines which round beset it and let in the water among their wheat at their pleasure and take it away when they see fit Here live Yeomen upon nothing but their farms who are judged to be worth some twenty thousand some thirty thousand some fourty thousand duckats In this valley we chanced to light upon one farme where the Yeoman was country-man to my friend Antonio Melendez borne in Segovia in Spaine who for his sake kept us three daies and nights with him His table was as well furnished as the table of a Knight might be his side board full of silver boules and cups and plates instead of trenchers lie spared no dainties which might welcome us to his table no perfumes which might us delight in our chambers no musick which his daughters were brought up to which might with more pleasure help to passe away the time To him Antonio Melendez made known our journey towards Guatemala and from him we received directions which way to steere our course untill we might be throughly free from feare and danger here we began to see the great providence of God who had brought us being strangers to such a friends house who not onely welcomed us to him but when we departed gave us a guide for a whole day and bestowed upon us twenty duckats to helpe to bear our charges From this valley wee wheeled about to Tasco a Towne of some five hundred Inhabitants which enjoyeth great commerce with the Country about by reason of the great store of Cotton-wool which is there And here we were very well entertained by a Franciscan Frier who being of Spaine made the more of us knowing we came from thence Here we got into the Rode of Guaxaca and went to Chautla which also aboundeth with Cotton-wool but in it we found no entertainment but what our owne purses would afford us Next to this place is a great Town called Zumpango which doth consist of at least eight hundred Inhabitants many of them very rich both Indians and Spaniards Their commodities are chiefly Cotton-wooll and Sugar and Cochinil But beyond this Town are the mountaines called la Misteca which abound with many rich and great Townes and doe trade with the best silke that is in all that Country Here is also great store of Wax and Hony and Indians live there who traffique to Mexico and about the Country with twenty or thirty mules of their owne chopping and changing buying and selling commodities and some of them are thought to be worth ten or twelve or fifteen thousand duckats which is much for an Indian to get among the Spaniards who thinke all the riches of America little enough for themselves From these mountaines of Misteca to Guaxaca we saw little observable only Townes of two or three hundred inhabitants rich Churches well built and better furnished within with lampes candlesticks crownes of silver for the severall statues of Saints and all the way wee did observe a very fruitfull soil for both Indian and Spanish wheat much Sugar much Cotton-wool Hony and here and there some Cochinil and of Plantins and other sweet and luscious fruit great store but above all great abundance of cattel whose Hides are one of the greatest commodities that from those parts are sent to Spaine Some reported that about Misteca formerly much gold had been found and the Indians were wont to use it much though now they will not be knowne of any left the greedinesse of the Spaniards bring them to misery and destruction as it hath their neighbours about them Also it is reported for certaine that there are Mines of silver though a●… yet the Spaniards have not found them There are many Mines of Iron which the Spaniards will not busie themselves in digging because they have it cheaper from Spain from hence wee came to the City of Guaxaca whis is a Bishops Seat though not very bigge yet a faire and beautifull City to behold It standeth fourescore leagues from Mexico in a pleasant valley from whence Cortez was named Marques del Valle the Marquesse of the Valley This City as all the rest of America except the Sea Towns lyeth open without walls Bulwarkes Fo rs Towers or any Castle Ordnance or Ammunition to defend it It may consist of at the most two thousand Inhabitants and are governed by a Spanish High Justice called Alcalde Major whose power reacheth over all the Valley and beyond it as farre as Nixapa and almost to Tecoantepeque a Sea Towne upon Mar del Zur The Valley is of at least fifteen miles in length and ten in breadth where runneth in the midst a goodly River yeelding great store of fish The Valley is full of Sheep and other Cattell which yeeld much Wooll to the Clothiers of the City of Angels store of Hides to the Merchants of Spain and great provision of flesh to the City of Guaxaca and to all the Townes about which are exceeding rich and doe maintaine many Cloisters of Fryers and Churches with stately furniture belonging unto them But what doth make the Valley of Guaxaca to bee mentioned farre and neer are the good horses which are bred in it and esteemed to bee the best of all the Country In this Valley also are some farmes of Sugar and great store of fruits which two sorts meeting together have cried up the City of Guaxaca for the best Conserves and Preserves that are made in America In the City there are some six Cloisters of Nuns and Fryers all of them exceeding rich but above all is the Cloister of the Dominican Fryers whose Church treasure is worth two or three Millions and the building of it the fairest and strongest in all those parts the walls are of stone so broad that a part of them being upon finishing when I was there I saw Carts goe upon them with stone and other materials Here are also two Cloisters of Nuns which are talked of far and neer not for their religious practices but for their skill in making two drinkes which are used in those parts the one called Chocolatte whereof I shall speake heereafter and the other Atolle which is like unto our Almond Milk but much thicker and is
is hot by reason the Town standeth low and compassed with high hills on every side Besides many good fruits which are here there are Dates as good as those in that come from Barbary and many trees of them in the Garden belonging to the Cloister After I had here wearied out the wearinesse which I brought in my bones from the Cuchumatlanes I departed taking my way to Guatemala and from Sacapula I went to a Town called St. Andres or St. Andrews which standeth six or seven leagues from Sacapula a great Town but nothing remarkable in it save onely Cotton wooll and Turkies and about it some rich Estancia's or Farmes of Cattell which are commodiously seated here it being a plain Champaigne Country Yet at further end of this plain there is a Mountaine which discourageth with the sight all such as travell to Guatemala from St. Andres I prepared my selfe for the next daies journey which was of nine long leagues to a very great Town called by two names by some Sacualpa by others Sta. Maria Zojabah to the which I could not go●… without passing over that Mountaine I sent word of going to Zojabah the day before as is the custome there that mules and hor●…s might meet mee upon the Mountaine and the night before I went to a Rancho which is a lodge built for travellers to rest when the journey is long which stood within a league of the Mountaine by a River where with the waters murmur and refreshing gales I tooke good rest In the morning having refreshed my selfe and my Indians with Chocolatte I set out to incounter with that proud Mountaine and when I came unto it I found it not so hard to overcome as I had conceited the way lying with windings and turnings But the higher I mounted the more my eyes were troubled with looking to the River below whose rockes were enough to astonish and make a stout heart tremble About the middle of the Mountaine the Indians of Zojabah met with a mule for mee and another for my carriage in a narrow passage where the way went wheeling Here I lighted whilst the Indians helped one another to unload and load the mule that came of refresh Out of the narrow way the side of the Mountaine was steepy and a fearefull precipice of two or three miles to the bottome almost bare of trees here and there one onely growing My heart was true unto mee wishing mee to walke up a foot untill I came unto some broader passage but the Indians perceiving my feare told me there was no danger assuring mee further that the Mule they had brought was sure and had beeen well used to that mountaine With their perswasions I got up but no sooner was I mounted when the Mule began to play her prankes and to kick and to leap out of the way casting me down and herselfe both rouling and tumbling a pace to the ro ckes and death had not a shrub prevented me and a tree stopped the Mules blind fury The Indians cried out milagro milagro miracle miracle Santo Santo a Saint a Saint to me so loud as if they would have had their cry reach to Rome to helpe forward my canonization for many such miracles have some been noised at Rome and with further contribution of mony have been enrolled in the booke and Catalogue of Saints Whilst the Indians helped me up and brought the Mule againe into the way they did nothing but flatter me with this terme Saint which they needed not have done if as they considered my dangerous fall and stopping at a shrub which was by chance and not by miracle they had further considered my passion and hasty wrath not befitting a Saint wherewith I threatned to bast their ribs for deceiving mee with a yong Mule not well accustomed to the saddle But all my hasty words and anger could not discredit me with them nor lessen their conceipt of my holinesse and sanctity who hold the anger and wrath of a Preist to be the breath of Gods nostrils and with this their foolish conceipt of mee they knecled before me kissing my hands The businesse being further examined they confessed that they had been mistaken in the Mules having sadled for me that which should have carried my Petaca's or leatherne chests which was a young Mule accustomed onely to carriages and not to the saddle and upon that which should have been sadled they put my carriage Whilst they unloaded and loaded again and sadled the right Mule I walked up the hill about a mile and when they overtooke me I got up and rid till I met with my refreshing harbour and Chocolatte and many Indians that came to receive me among whom it was presently noised that I was a Saint and had wrought a miracle in the way with this the rest of the Indians kneeled to me and kissed my hands and in the way that we went to the Towne all their talk was of my sanctity I was much vexed at their simplicity but the more they saw mee unwilling to accept of that honour the more they pressed it upon me When I came to the Town I told the Frier what had happened and what the foolish Indians had conceited at which he laughed and told me that he would warrant me if I staied long in the Towne all the men and women would come to kisse my hands and to offer their gifts unto me He knew well their qualities or else had taught them this superstition with many others for no sooner had we dined but many were gathered to the Church to see the Saint that was come to their Towne and that had wrought a miracle in the mountaine as he came With this I began to be more troubled then before at the folly of the simple people and desired the Fryer to checke and rebuke them who by no means would but rather laughed at it saying that in policy we ought to accept of any honour from the Indians for as long as we had credit and an opinion of Saints among them so long we should prevaile to do any with them yea even to command them and their fortunes at our pleasure With this I went downe with the Frier to the Church and sate downe with him in a chaire in the Quire representing the person of such a Saint as they imagined me to be though in reality and truth but a wretched sinner No sooner had we taken up our places when the Indians men women and children came up by three and four or whole families to the Quire first kneeling down for my blessing and then kissing my hands they began to speake to me in their Indian complements to this purpose that their Town was happy and doubtlesse blessed from heaven by my coming into it and that they hoped their soules should be much the bettter if they might partake of my praiers to God for them And for this purpose some offered unto me money some hony some ●…gs some little mantles some Plantins
as are in some places in the Rode to Mexico Besides the great trading commerce and traffique which this City injoyeth by that Golfe from Spaine hath made that rode exceed all the rest In Iuly or at furthest in the beginning of August come into that Golfe three ships or two and frigate and unlade what they have brought from Spain in Bodega's or great Lodges built on purpose to keep dry and from the weather the commodities They presently make hast to lade againe from Guatemala those Merchants commodities of returne which peradventure have lien waiting for them in the Bodega's two 〈◊〉 three moneths before the ships arrivall So that these three moneths of Iuly August and September there is sure to be found a great treasure And O the simplicity or security of the Spaniards who appoint no other watch over thes●… their riches save only one or two Indians and as many Mulatio's who commonly are such as have for their misdeamours been condemned to live in that old and ruinated Castle of S. Thomas de Castilia True it is above it there is a little and ragged Town of Indians called S. Pedro consisting of some thirty families who by reason of the exceeding heat and unhealthinesse of the air are alwaies sickly and scarce able to stand upon their legs But the weakenesse of this Golfe within might well bee remedied and supplyed at the mouth of the sea or entrance into it by one or two at the most good peeces of Ordnance placed there For the entrance into this Golfe is but as one should come in at the doore of some great Palace where although the dore and entrance be narrow the house within is wide and capacious Such is this Golfe whose entrance is straitned with two rocks or mountaines on each side which would well become two great Peeces and so scorne a whole fleet and secure a Kingdome of Guatemala nay most of all America but here being no watch nor defence the ships come freely and safely in as have done some both English and Holland ships and being entred find a rode and harbour so wide and capacious as may well secure a thousand ships there riding at anchor without any thought of feare from St. Pedro or Santo Thomas de Castilia I have often heard the Spaniards jear and laugh at the English and Hollanders for that they having come into this Golfe have gone away without attempting any thing further upon the land Nay while I lived there the Hollanders set upon Truxillo the head Port of Comayagua and Honduras and tooke it though there were some resistance the people for the most part flying to the woods trusting more to their feet then to their hands and weapons such cowards is all that Countrey full of and whilst they might have fortified themselves there and gone into the Countrey or fortifying that have come on to the Golfe all Guatemala fearing it much and not being able to resist them they left Truxillo contenting themselves with a small pillage and gave occasion to the Spaniards to rejoyce and to make processions of thanksgiving for their safe deliverance out of their enemies hands The way from this Golfe to Guatemala is not so bad as some report and conceive especially after Michaelmas untill May when the winter and rain is past and gone and the winds begin to dry up the waies For in the worst of the yeer Mules laden with four hundred waight at least goe easily thorow the steepest deepest and most dangerous passages of the mountaines that lie about this Golfe And though the waies are at that time of the yeer bad yet they are so beaten with the Mules and so wide and open that one bad step and passage may be avoided for a better and the worst of this way continues but fifteen leagues there being Rancho's or Lodges in the way Cattel and Mules also among the woods and mountaines for reliefe and comfort to a weary Traveller What the Spaniards most feare untill they come out of these mountaines are some two or three hundred Black-mores Simarrones who for too much hard usage have fled away from Guatemala and other parts from their Masters unto these woods and there live and bring up their children and encrease daily so that all the power of Guatemala nay all the Countrey about having often attempted it is not able to bring them under subjection Th●…se often come out to the rode way and set upon the Requa's of Mules and take of Wine Iron clothing and weapons from them as much as they need without doing any harme unto the people or slaves that goe with the Mules but rather these rejoyce with them being of one colour and subject to slavery and misery which the others have shaken off by whose example and encouragement many of these also shake off their misery and joyne with them to enjoy libertie though it be but in the woods and mountaines Their weapons are bowes and arrows which they use and carry about them onely to defend themselves if the Spaniards set upon them else they use them not against the Spaniards who travell quietly and give them part of what provision they carry These have often said that the chiefe cause of their flying to those mountaines is to be in a readinesse to joyne with the English or Hollanders if ever they land in that Golfe for they know from them they may injoy that liberty which the Spaniards will never grant unto them After the first fifteen leagues the way is better and there are little Towns and villages of Indians who relieve with provision both man and beast Fifteen leagues further is a great Town of Indians called Acabastlan standing upon a river which for fish is held the best all that Country Though here are many sorts yet above all there is one which they call Bobo a thick round fish as long or longer then a mans arme with onely a middle bone as white as milke at fat as butter and good to boil fry stew or bake There is also from hence most of the way to Guatemala in brooks and shallow rivers one of the best sort of fishes in the world which the Spaniards judge to be a kind of Trout it is called there Tepemechin the fat whereof resembles veal more than fish This Towne of Acabastlan is governed by a Spaniard who is called Corrigidor his house extendeth no farther then to the Golfe and to those Townes in the way This Governour hath often attempted to bring in those Simarrones from the mountaines but could never prevaile against them All the strength of this place may 〈◊〉 some twenty mu●…ets for so many Spanish houses there may bee in the Towne and some few Indians that use bowes and arrowes for the defence of the Town against the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 About Acacabastlan there are many Estancia's of Cattell and Mules much Cacao Achiotte and drugs for Chocolatte There is also Apothecary drugs as Zarzaparilla and Cannafistula and in the Town as
much variety of fruits and gardens as in any one Indian Town in the Country But above all Acacabastlan is farre known and much esteemed of in the City of Guatemala for excellent Muskmillians some small some bigger then a mans head wherewith the Indians load their mules and carry them to sell all over the Country From hence to Guatemala there are but thirty short leagues and though some hills there be ascents and descent yet nothing troublesome to man or beast Among these Mountaines there have beene discovered some mines of metall which the Spaniards have begun to digge and finding that they have been some of Copper and some of iron they have let them alone judgeing them more chargeable then profitable But greater profit have the Spaniards lost then of iron and copper for using the poore Indians too hardly and that in this way from Acacabastlan to Guatemala especially about a place called el Agua Caliente the hot water where is a River out of which in some places formerly the Indians found such store of gold that they were charged by the Spaniards with a yeerly tribute of gold But the Spaniards being like Valdivia in Chille too greedy after it murthering the Indians for not discovering unto them whereabout this treasure lay have lost both treasure and Indians also Yet unto this day search is made about the Mountaines the River and the sands for the hidden treasure which peradventure by Gods order and appointment doth and shall lie hide and kept for a people better knowing and honouring their God At this place called el Agua Caliente or the hot water liveth a Blackmore in an Estancia of his own who is held to be very rich and gives good entertainement to the Travellers that passe that way he is rich in Cattell Sheep and Goates and from his Farm stores Guatemala and the people thereabout with the best Cheese of all that Country But his riches are thought not so much to increase from his Farm and cheeses but from this hidden treasure which credibly is reported to be known unto him He hath been questioned about it in the Chancery of Guatemala but hath denyed often any such treasure to be known unto him The jealousie and suspicion of him is for that formerly having been a slave hee bought his freedome with great summes of money and since hee hath been free hath bought that farm and much land lying to it and hath exceedingly increased his stock To which hee answereth that when hee was young and a slave hee had a good Master who let him get for himself what hee could and that hee playing the good husband gathered as much as would buy his liberty and at first a little house to live in to the which God hath since given a blessing with a greater increase of stock From this hot water three or foure leagues there is another River called Rio de las Vaccas or the River of Cow●…s where are a company of poore and country people most of them Mestizo's and Mulatto's who live in thatched houses with some small stock of Cattell spending their time also in searching for sands of Gold hoping that one day by their diligent search they and their children and all their Country shall bee inriched and that Rio de las Vaccas shall parallel Pactolus and stirre up the wits of Poets to speak of it as much as ever they have spoke of that From this River is presently discovered the pleasantest valley in all that Country where my selfe did live at least five yeers called the Valley of Mixco and Pinola lying six leagues from Guatemala being fifteen miles in length and ten or twelve in breadth Out of the inclosures this Valley is stored with sheep the ground inclosed is divided into many Farmes where groweth better wheat then any in the Country of Mexico From this Valley the city is well provided of wheat and Bisket is made for the ships that come every yeere unto the Golf It is called the Valley of Mixco and Pinola from two Townes of Indians so called standing opposite the one to the other on each side of the Valley Pinola on the left side from Rio delas Vaccas and Mixco on the right Here do live many rich Farmers but yet Country and clownish people who know more of breaking clods of earth then of managing Armes offensive or defensive But among them I must not forget one friend of mine called Iuan Palomeque whom I should have more esteemed of then I did if I could have prevailed with him to have made him live more like a man then a beast more like a free men then a bond slave to his gold and silver This man had in my time three hundred lusty mules trained up in the way of the Golf which hee divided into six Requa's or companies and for them be kept above a hundred Black-more slaves men women and children who lived neer Mixco in severall thatched cottages The house he lived in himselfe was but a poore thatched house wherein he tooke more delight to live then in other houses which he had in Guatemala for there hee lived like a wilde Simarron among his slaves and Black-mores whereas in the City he should have lived civilly there he lived with milke curds and blacke hard and mouldy bisket and with a dry tassajo which is dry salted beefe cut out in thinne slices and dryed in the sun and wind till there be little substance left in it such as his slaves were wont to cary to the Golfe for their provision by the way whereas if he had lived in the City he must have eat for his credit what others of worth did eat But the miser knew well which was the best way to save and so chose a field for a City a cottage for a house company of Simarrones and Black-mores for Citizens and yet he was thought to be worth six hundred thousand duckats He was the undoer of all others who dealed with Mules for bringing and carrying commodities to the Golfe for the Merchants for he having lusty Mules lusty slaves would set the price or rate for the hundred weight so as he might get but others at that rate hiring Indians and servants to goe with their Mules might lose He was so cruell to his Black-mores that if any were untoward he would torment them almost to death amongst whom he had one slave called Macaco for whom I have often interceded but to little purpose whom he would often hang up by the armes and whip him till the blood ran about his back and then his flesh being torne mangled and all in a goar blood he would for last cure powre boyling grease upon it he had marked him for a slave with burning irons upon his face his hands his armes his back his belly his thighes his legs that the poor slave was weary of life and I thinke would two or three times have hanged himselfe if I had not counselled him to the
may hee game buy good Mules furnish his chamber with hangings and rich pictures and Cabinets yea and fill them with Spanish Pistols and peeces of eight and after all trade in the Court of Madrid for a Mitre and fat Bishoprick which commonly is the end of those proud worldly and lazy Lubbars After I was once setled in these my two Townes my first care was to provide my selfe of a good mule which might soon and easily carry mee as often as occasion called from the one Towne to the other I soon found out one which cost mee fourescore Crownes which served my turn very well to ride speedily the nine miles crosse the Valley which were between the two Townes Though my chief study here was to perfect my selfe in the Indian tongue that I might the better preach unto them and be well understood yet I omitted not to search out the Scriptures daily and to addict my selfe unto the Word of God which I knew would profit mee more then all those riches and pleasures of Egypt which for a while I saw I must enioy till my ten yeers were fully expired and Licence from Rome or Spain granted for me to return to England which I began speedily to sollicite by meanes of one Captain I●…dro de Zepeda a Sevill Merchant and Master of one of the Ships which came that first yeer that I was setled in Mixco with Merchandize for Guatemala By this Captain who passed often through the Valley I writ unto my friends in Spain and had answers though at first to little purpose which did not a little increase the troubles of my Conscience which were great and such where of the wise man said A wounded Conscience who can bear My friendship with this Captain Zepeda was such that I broke my mind unto him desiring him to carry mee in his Ship to Spain which he refused to doe telling me the danger he might bee in if complaint should be made to the President of Guatemala and wishing me to continue where I was to store my self with mony that I might return with Licence and credit I resolved therefore with David in the 16 Psal. and the ●… V●…to set the Lord alwayes before me and to choose him for my onely comfort and to relie upon his providence who I knew only could order things for my good and could from America bring me home to the House of Salvation and to the houshold of Faith from which I considered my self an exile and farre banished In the mean time I lived five full yeers in the two Townes of Mixco and Pinola Where I had more occasion to get wealth and money then ever any that lived there before mee for the first yeer of my abiding there it pleased God to send one of the plagues of Egipt to that Country which was of Locusts which I had never seen till then They were after the manner of our Grashoppers but somewhat bigger which did flye about in number so thick and infinite that they did truly cover the face of the Sun and hinder the shining forth of the beames of that bright planet Where they lighted either upon trees or standing Corn there nothing was expected but ruine destruction and barrennesse for the corn they devoured the leaves and fruits of trees they eat and consumed and hung so thick upon the branches that with their weight they tore them from the body The high waies were so covered with them that they startled the travelling Mules with their fluttering about their head and feet my eyes were often struck with their wings as I rid along and much a doe I had to see my way what with a Montero where with I was saine to cover my face what with the flight of them which were still before my eyes The Farmers towards the South Sea Coast cryed out for that their Indigo which was then in grasse was like to bee eaten up from the Ingenio's of Sugar the like moan was made that the young and ●…nder Sugar Canes would bee destroyed but above all grievous was the ●…ry of the husbandmen of the Valley where I lived who feared that their Corn would in one night be swallowed up by that devouring Legion The care of the Magistrate was that the Townes of Indians should all goe out into the fields with Trumpets and what other instruments they had to make a noise and so to affright them from those places which were most considerable and profitable to the Common-wealth and strange it was to see how the loud noise of the Indians and sounding of the Trumpets defended some fields from the feare and danger of them Where they lighted in the Mountaines and High wayes there they left behind them their young ones which were found creeping upon the ground ready to threate●… with a second yeers plagues if not prevented wherefore all the Townes were called with Spades Mattocks and Shovels to dig long Trenches and therein to bury all the young ones Thus with much trouble to the poore Indians and their great paines yet after much hurt and losse in many places was that flying Pestilence chased away out of the Country to the South Sea where it was thought to bee consumed by the Ocean and to have found a grave in the waters whilst the young ones found it in the Land Yet they were not all so burled but that shortly some appeared which not being so many in number as before were with the former diligence soon overcome But whilst all this feare was these outcries were made by the Country and this diligence performed by the Indians the Preists got well by it for every where Processions were made and Masses sung for the averting of that Plague In Mixco most of the idols were carryed to the field especially the pictures of our Lady and that of St. Nicolas Tolentine in whose name the Church of Rome doth use to blesse little Breads and Wafers with the Saint stamped upon them which they think are able to defend them from Agues Plague Pestilence Contagion or any other great and imminent danger There was scarce any Spanish Husbandman who in this occasion came not from the Valley to the Town of Mixco with his offering to this Saint and who made not a vow to have a Masse sung unto Saint Nicolas they all brought breads to bee blessed and carryed them back to their Farmes some casting them into their Corn some burying them in their hedges and fences strongly trusting in Saint Nicolus that his bread would have power to keepe the Locust out of their fields and so at the last those simple ignorant and blinded soules when they saw the Locusts departed and their Corn safe cried out to our Lady some others to Saint Nicolas Magro a Miracle judging the Saint worthy of praise more then God and performing to him their vows of Masses which in their feare and trouble they had vowed by which erroneous and idolatrous devotion of theirs I got that yeer many
man and so after two dayes I tooke post in company of some Spaniards and an Irish Colonel for Canterbury and so forward to Gravesend When I came to London I was much troubled within my selfe for want of my Mother tongue for I could onely speak some few broken words which made mee fearefull I should not bee accknowledged to bee an English man born Yet I thought my kinred who knew I had beene many yeers lost would some way or other acknowledge mee and take notice of mee if at the first I addressed my selfe unto some of them untill I could better expresse my selfe in English The first therefore of my name whom I had notice of was my Lady Penelope Gage widow of Sir Iohn Gage then living in St. Iones to whom the next morning after my arrivall to London I addressed my selfe for the better discovery of some of my kinred whom though I knew to bee Papists and therefore ought not to be acquainted with my inward purpose and resolution yet for feare of some want in the mean time and that I might by their means practice my selfe in the use of my forgotten native tongue and that I might enquire what Childs part had been left me by my father that I might learn some fashions and ●…astly that in the meane time I might search into the Religion of England and find how farre my conscience could agree with it and bee satisfied in those scruples which had troubled mee in America for all these reasons I thought it not amisse to looke and inquire after them When therefore I came unto my Lady Gage shee beleeved mee to bee her kinsman but laughed at mee telling mee that I spake like an Indian or Welch man and not like an English man yet shee welcomed mee home and sent mee with a servant to a Brothers lodging in Long Aker who being in the Country of Surrey and hearing of mee sent horse and man for mee to come to keepe Christmas with an Uncle of mine living at Gatton by whom as a lost and forgotten Nephew and now after foure and twenty yeeres returned home againe I was very kindly entertained and from thence sent for to Cheam to one Mr. Fromand another kinsman with whom I continued till after twelfth day and so returned againe to London to my brother Thus my good Reader thou see●…t an American through many dangers by Sea and Land now safely arrived in England and thou maiest well with mee observe the great and infinite goodnesse and mercy of God towards mee a wicked and wretched sinner How I have answered to this Gods gracious calling mee from so farre and remote a Country to doe him service here I will shew thee in the Chapter following and so conclude this my long and tedious History CHAP. XXII Shewing how and for what causes after I had arrived in England I tooke yet another Iourney to Rome and other parts of Italy and returned againe to settle my selfe in this my Country NOw Reader as the stone that is falling the neerer it cometh to its Center more haste it maketh So I the neerer I am coming to the conclusion of this my History more haste I desire to make in this last Chapter for the compleating and finishing of it With brevity therefore I will relate some of my travels in Europe in which I will yeeld to many of my Nation but for America and my travels and experience there I dare boldly challenge all travellers of my Country After my return to London from Surrey I began to expostulate with my younger Brother knowing hee had been present at my Fathers death and had a chief hand in the ordering and executing his last Will and Testament concerning what childs part was left unto mee To which hee made mee answer that my father had indeed left him and my Brother the Colonell and two other sons by a second wife and my owne sister every one somewhat but to mee nothing nay that at his death he did not so much as remember mee which I could not but take to heart and called to minde the angry and threatning letter which I had received from him in Spain because I would not bee a Jesuite Though for the present I said nothing yet afterwards in many occasions I told my Brother I would have the Will produced and would by course of law demand a childs part but hee put me off assuring me I should never want amongst other my friends and kindred with whom hee knew I should bee well accommodated as long as I continued in England After few dayes that I had been in London my kinsman at Cheam desired me to come to live with him where I continued not long for my Uncle at Gatton invited mee to his house offering mee there meat drink lodging horse and man with twenty pound a yeare which hee promised in other waies to make as good as thirty Here I continued a twelve moneth refining my self in my native tongue and though altogether unknown to my Uncle and kindred searching into the Doctrine and truth of the Gospel professed in England for which cause I made many journeys to London and then privately I resorted to some churches and especially to Paul●… Church to see the service performed and to heare the Word of God Preached but so that I might not be seen known or discovered by any Papist When in Pauls Church I heard the Organs and the Musick and the Prayers and Collects and saw the Ceremonies at the Altar I remembred Rome againe and perceived little difference between the two Churches I searched further into the Common-Prayer and carryed with me a Bible into the Country on purpose to compare the Prayers Epistles and Gospels with a Masse Book which there I had at command and I found no difference but onely English and Latin which made mee wonder and to acknowledge that much remained still of Rome in the Church of England and that I feared my calling was not right In these my scruples coming often to London and conversing with one D●…de Popham and Cr●… Connel and Brown English and Irish Dominican Fryers I found their wayes and conversations base lewd light and wanton like the Spanish and Indian Fryers which made me againe reflect upon the Popish Church upheld by such Pillars I came yet to the acquaintaince of one Price Superiour to the Benedictine Monkes whom I found to be a meer States-man and a great Politician and very familiar private and secret with the Archbishop of Canterbury William Land in conversation with my Brother who belonged then unto one Signior Co●… the Popes Agent and was in such favour at the Court that hee was sent over by the Queen with a rich present to a Popish Idol named our ●…ady of Sichem in the Low Countries I heard him sometimes say that hee doubted not but to bee shortly Curate and Parish Preist of Coven Garden sometimes that he hoped to bee made Bishop in England and that then I
Indians soon raised and armed by those of Tlaxcallan and soone over come by a thousand onely Indians and Spaniards with Cortez pag. 30. 31. Yet further a hundred and fifty thousand overcome by foure hundred Spaniards and six hundred Indians page 31. 32. Three presents sent to Cortez viz five slaves Frankincense and feathers Fowles 〈◊〉 and Cherries to know whether hee●…ere a God or a man pag. 3●… Montezuma the Emperour his great present sent to Cortez pag. 34. The Tlaxcalteca's pay no Tribute to the King of Spain as others doe save onely ●…ne Corn of Mo●… pag. 35. A description of the foure chief streets of Tlaxcallan with the standard of the Town pag. 35. Twenty thousand persons wont to meet in one Market place of Tlaxcallan to buy and sell. pag. 35. Severe Iustice executed upon ā thief by the inhabitants of Tlaxcallan pag. 36. CHAP. XI Concluding the rest of our Iourney from Tlaxcallan to Mexico through the City of Angels and Guacocingo pag. 36. Contents The City of Angels first builded by the Command of Antonio de Mendoza in the yeer 1530. pag. 37. It was first called by the Indians Cuctlaxcoapan that is to say a snake in water Ibid. Many more particulars of the City of Angels briefly related Ibid. The Town of Guacocingo why priviledged by the Spaniards pag. 38. Tezcuco the first Town in the West-India's that received a Christian King pag. 39. How the Vergantines wherewith Cortez besieged Mexico by water were brought by Land in pieces from Tlaxcallan to Tezcuco and foure hundred thousand men fifty dayes imployed in making a sluce or Trench for the finishing of them and launching them forth to the Lake pag. 40. Cortez his Army divided into three parts in the plain of Tezcuco for the better besieging of Mexico pag. 40. 41. Cortez made use of seven thousand beames of Cedar trees for the building of his house in Mexico pag. 41. CHAP. XII Shewing some particulars of the great and famous City of Mexico in former times with a true description of it now And of the State and Condition of it in the yeare 1625. pag. 42. Contents Little substance or nourishment found in the fruits and other food of Mexico pag. 42. 43. Severall opinions concerning the difference of fresh and salt water in the Lake of Mexico p. 43 44. Montezuma his stately Palace in Mexico called Tepa●… with two more the one with many ponds of salt and fresh water for severall ●…orts of fowles the other for hawking fowles and fowles of rapine p. 44 45. Three thousand were the Attendants in Montezuma his Court fed with what came from his Table p. 46. Mexico called formerly Tenuchtitlan and why ibid. What Mexico properly signifieth and from whence so called p. 47. The Names of the ten Emperours that were of Mexico and Montezuma his death ibid. Quahutimoc Emperour of Mexico taken prisoner and that great City conquered by Cortez the 13. of August 1521. p. 49. Two hundred thousand little boats called Canoas belonged to Mexico to bring provision into the City p. 50. A Description of the chiefe Market of Mexico wherein a hundred thousand persons did usually meet to buy and sell. p. 50 51. A Description of the great Church of Mexico before the entring of the Spaniards p. 51 52. The Papists have continued the fashion of their Churches Altars Cloisters and many other their abuses from the Heathens p. 52 53. The Gods of Mexico two thousand in number p. 53. Mexico after the Conquest was built againe with à hundred thousand houses p. 54. Fifteen thousand Coaches are judged to be in the City of Mexico p. 56. A Popingay presented to the King of Spain worth halfe a million of Duckates ibid. A Lampe in Mexico worth foure hundred thousand Crownes ibid. The Attire of the female sex of Blackmores Mulatta's and Mestiza's in Mexico p. 56 57. The Spaniards with their gifts to the Churches and Cloisters cover their lascivious lives as is shewed by an example in Mexico p. 57. About two thousand Coaches daily meet in the Alameda of Mexico 59. Of a fruit in the India's called Nuchtli p. 60. Of some other fruits and especially of a tree called Metl p. 60 61. A memorable history of a great mutiny in Mexico caused by the too great power of an Archprelate and the Covetousnesse of the Viceroy With some observations gathered for the good of England out of the said mutiny p. 62. sequent CHAP. XIII Shewing the severall parts of this new world of America and the places of Note about the famous City of Mexico p. 68. Contents A Description of the fiery Mountain called Popocatepec p. 69. The riches belonging to the Viceroy his chappell at Chapultepec worth above a million of Crownes p. 70. A Description of a rich Desart or wildernesse three leagues from Mexico ibid. The cruelty of Don Nunio de Guzman in Mechoacan p. 71. The manner of burying the Kings of Mechocan before it was conquered by the Spaniards p. 71 72. The Spaniards themselves wonder that our English Nation is not more Active in conquering more of the Continent of America beyond Virginia p. 73. Nova Albion in America named so by Sir Francis Drake p. 74. How the Countrey of Jucatan was first named ibid. In the year 1632. the Indians of Jucatan mutinied against the Spaniards ibid. The City of Valdivia so named from a Spaniard of that name too greedy and covetous of gold p. 76. The famous Attempt of John Oxenham an English man from the Coast of Nombre de Dios to the Island of Pearles in the South sea p. 77. The Spanish Fleet of Nova Hispania taken by the Hollanders in the river of Matanzos p. 80. CHAP. XIIII Shewing my Iourney from Mexico to Chiapa Southward and the most remarkable places in the way p. 81. Contents For what reasons I stayed in America and would not goe on to the Philippina Islands in the East-India's p. 82. A Proclamation from the Viceroy in the market place of Mexico against such as should conceale harbour and hide any Fryer bound for the Philippina Islands p. 83. A double Wheat harvest every yeer in a Valley called St. Pablo p. 85. The Dominicans Cloister in Guaxaca very rich and strong p. 86. The great River Alvarado though it run from St. John de Ulhua far into the heart of the Countrey towards Guaxaca yet there is no Castle Tower or Ordnance upon it ibid. An Old Frier Master of Divinity spightfully and maliciously buried in a garden by the Friers of Guaxaca ibid. Friers in the India's may travail and call for Turkeys Capons or what they please to eat without any mony upon the Indians charges p. 87. Tecoantepeque a Sea Towne upon Mar del Zur altogether unfortified ibid. The Author lodged in a Wildernesse and affrighted with a sure apprehension of death by Wild beasts p. 88 89. The Author and his Companies dangerous passage over the mountaine of Maquilapa feeding three daies upon green sowre lemmons
in wax candles and sell sometimes one candle five or six times p. 150. An old Indian Womans judgement concerning the Sacrament of the Lords supper p. 150 151. All soules day Christmas Candlemas day and Whitsunday daies of great lucre and profit to the Preists p. 151 152. The Indians are forced to marry at thirteen and fourteen yeers of age and why p. 153. The ground of our Fairs in England p. 154. Severall dances of the Indians p. 154 155. CHAP. XX. Shewing how and why I departed out of Guatemala to learne the Poconchi language and to live among the Indians and of some particular passages and Accidents whilst I lived there p. 156. Contents The Author going with some few Spaniards and Christian Indians into a Countrey of unknowne Heathens fell dangerously sick and was further in a skir●…h with the Barbarians and by that meanes also in danger of his life p. 157. 158. Indians growne up in age forcedly driven to Baptis●… without any principl●…s 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by the Preists and Friers that first entred into America ibid. 〈◊〉 a woody mountainous and barren Countrey p. 159. 〈◊〉 India's are Grammers and Dictionaries of the severall Indian tongues p. 〈◊〉 The Authour became perfect in the Poconchi language in one quarter of a 〈◊〉 ibid. The meanes chiefly from the Church which the Authour enjoyed yeerly in the Townes of Mixco and Pinola p. 161 162. A Plague of Locusts in the India's brought no small profit to the Authour p. 163 164. The Spaniards confidence in some blessed breads against the plague of Locusts ibid. An infectious disease amongst the Indians brought to the Author neer a hundred pounds in halfe a yeer ibid. The Authour struck downe as dead to the ground with a flash of lightning and again in danger of his life by an Earthquake p. 165 166. Of a small Vermine lesse then a flea called Nigua common in the India's wherewith the Author was in danger of losing a leg ibid. The Authour like to be killed by a Spaniard for defending the poore Indians p. 167. A notorious Witch in the Town of Pinola affrighted the Authour p. 167. sequ The Indian Wizards and Witches changed into shapes of beasts by the Devil as appeareth by two examples p. 169. sequ Some Idolaters in the Towne of Mixco discovered their preaching Idol found out by the Authour and burnt publikely in the Church and hee in great danger to bee killed by them p. 171. sequ The Authors conflict within himselfe about comming home to England for conscience sake and his resolution therein p. 180 181. Neer upon 9000. peeces of Eight got by the Authour in twelve yeers that hee lived in the India's p. 181. CHAP. XXI Shewing my Iourney from the Towne of Petapa into England and some chief passages in the way p. 182. Contents Relation of a place called Serro Redondo five leagues from Petapa p. 182. A strange fire and smoake constantly comming out of the earth neer unto a Towne called Aguachapa which by the Spaniards is supposed to be a mouth of hell p. 183. The priviledge of a great river called Lempa dividing the Countrey of St. Salvador and Nicaragua p. 184. A Frier thinking to take up gold from the bottome of the fiery Vulcan of Leon deceived p. 185. The City of Leon and Countrey about called by the Spaniards Mahomets paradise ibid. About the beginning of February the City of Granada in Nicaragua is one of the richest places in the India's by reason of many rich commodities and some of the King of Spain his revenews carried thither to be transported by the Frigats to Carthagena or Havana p. 185 186. The dangerous passage from the Lake of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 led El Des●…adero p. 〈◊〉 The Authour and his 〈◊〉 like to be surprized by 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Crocodile p. 187. The Authour ro●…bed at sea by a Holland man of Warre of the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Crownes p. 188 189. A Frier f●… defending the po●…re Indians of Nicoy●… 〈◊〉 two fingers which were cut off by the 〈◊〉 de Maior p. 192. The Author forced to drinke his owne urine and lost and like to perish in an unknowne Island and afterwards upon a Rocke p. 193 194. Some particulars of the City of Panama p. 195. The river of Chiagre very shallow in many places without some great raine cause the water to fall into it from the mountaines ibid. Some particulars of Portobello during the time that the Spanish Fleet stayeth there p. 196. The Papists Bread God or Sacrament eaten and gnawne by a Mouse in Porto-bello with a Fast in bread and water for that contempt done unto their God p. 197 198. The Spaniards feare of the English that then inhabited the Island called Providence p. 199. Some English Prisoners at Carthagena with one Captain Rouse who at Havana challenged some Spaniards into the field who had abused him p. 199 200 From the whole Spanish Fleet one gallantly taken 〈◊〉 worth fo●…re 〈◊〉 thousand Duckats by two Holland or English ships not well knowne upon the Coast of Havana p. 201. The manner of the Dominicans habit with the meaning of it p. 203. CHAP. XXII Shewing how and for what causes after I had arrived in England I took yet another journey to Rome and other parts of Italy and returned again to settle my selfe in this my Countrey p. 205. Contents Price a Monke very familiar with William Laud late Archbishop of Canterbury p. 205. The Authors Brother in great favour at Court and aspiring to a Bishopric●…e or to be Parish Preist of Covengarden ibid. The Authour apprehended by a Pursevant a●… protected by Sir Francis VVindebank p. 207. The Authour from the low Countries got letters of recommendation to some chiefe Cardinals in Rome p. 207. The Author robbed by French Pyrates going from Ligorne to Rome ibid. The Cardinal Don Francisco Barbarini intituled the Protectour of England 〈…〉 and proceedings of VVilliam Laud 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 p. 20●… VVilliam Laud his further Complyance with the Cardinals of Rome as testified by Fitzherbert the Iesuite in a conference with the Authour ibid. A designe of making an English Cardinall at Rome and who chiefly eyed for that purpose p. 20●… A true Copy of the manner of sending the Author to live at Orleans in France p. 209 210. The miracle printed by the Papists of the blushing and sweating of the Ladies picture of Loretto tried by the Authour and found to bee a meer lie p. 210. At the calling of the Parliament now sitting the Romish crew in Italy much perplexed p. 210 211. The Authour taken again by a French Fleet of ships as he was coming home from Ligorne p. 211. The Author twice assaulted in London by Papists and like to be killed for his profession of the truth and service to the State p. 211 212. FINIS ERRATA PAg. 6 l. 54 read that Kingdom p. 8 l. 34 r. their own p. 10 l. 46 r. party p. 11 l 56 r. S●…via p. 15 l. 2●… r. St. Iohn de Ul●… ibid. l. 49. r. the spurnings p. 16 l. 33 34 r. the first founder p. 17 l. 23. r. were p. 24 l. 3 r. 〈◊〉 ibid. l. 5 6 r. Grij●…lva p. 25 l. 42 r. out of the Arbour p. 27 l 23 r. keepers p. 28 l. 46 r. 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 p. 35 l. 12 r. well b●…ked p. 36 l. 6 r. sacrificed p. 43 l. 5 r. in a Spanish ibid. l. 55 r. it maketh p. 51 l. 39 r. those sacrifices p. 53 l. 43 r. consecrated p. 62 l. 30 r. to be the Viceroyes p. 65 l. 31 r. Uiva ●…l Roy p. ●…9 l. 51 r. Antiqu●…ra p. 71 l. 4 r. it glorietli ibid l. 47 r. made p. 72 l. 1 r. glorious p. 74 l. 23 24. r. 〈◊〉 p. 76 l. 12 r. have in it p. 79 l. 21 r. S●…villa p. 83 l. 2 r. to follow him p. 85 l. 59 r. which p. 88 l. 2 r. met here p. 95 l. 14 r. merr●… p. 96 l. 28 r. Cloister p. 100 l. 21 r. bodies ibid. l. 22 r. planet p. 102 l. 51 52 r. women p. 109 l. 19 r. another p. 114 l. 33 r. those that p. 115 l. 41 r. any thing with them p. 116 l. 14 r. ten leagues p. 11●… l. 10 a deadly p. ●…19 l. 3 r. Originall sin ibid l. 42 r. 1●…27 ibid l. ult r. Preachers p. 122 l. 22 r. not holy p. 123 l. 2 r. grieving p. 125 l. 51 r. cheap ibid l. 59 r. stately p. 126 l. 38 r. he lift p. 128 l. 26 r. thousand Crownes ibid●… l. 55 r. is no landing p. 129 l. 20 r. to enrich Guatemala p. 130 l. 46 r. 〈◊〉 ibid l. 54 r. his power p. 141 l. 26 r. which after p. 149 l. 38 r. provide p. 150 l. 31 r. buy p. 153 l. 9 r taught more for ibid l. 33 r. livers in the town p. 156 l. 26 r. halving p. 159 l. 7 r. President p. 169 l. 38 r. killed him p. 170 l. 44 r. taken up p. 171 l. 54 r. a running water p. 178 l. 45 r. Priests p. 179 l. 12 r. sent me a Patent ibid l. 16. r. to further p. 180 l. 2 r. against it which p. 182 l. 14 r. would not p. 183 l. ul●… r. 〈◊〉 p. 184 l. 50 r. there p. 187 l. 5 r. difficult journey p. 193 l. 17 towards death p. 198 l. 13 r. would p. 203 l. 30 r. Popham p. 209 l. 48 49 put t●… before supr●…ominatum and leave it ou●… in the next line p. 213 l. 40 r. R●… ibid l. 43 r. quipat p. 214 l. 2 r. quit●… tacque p 215 l 26 r chiquil●…h tacque ibid l 4●… r the second person ibid l 49 r lo●…e thee p 216 l 18 r. 〈◊〉 ibid l 21 22 r verbs passives ibid l 28 r in 〈◊〉 and r change ●…h ibid l 51 ●… 〈◊〉
The English-American his Travail by Sea and Land OR A NEW SVRVEY OF THE WEST-INDIA'S CONTAINING A Journall of Three thousand and Three hundred Miles within the main Land of AMERICA Wherin is set forth his Voyage from Spain to S t. Iohn de Ulhua and from thence to Xalappa to Tlaxcalla the City of Angeles and forward to Mexico With the description of that great City as it was in former times and also at this present Likewise his Journey from Mexico through the Provinces of Guaxaca Chiapa Guatemala Vera Paz Truxillo Comayagua with his abode Twelve years about Guatemala and especially in the Indian-towns of Mixco Pinola Petapa Amatitlan As also his strange and wonderfull Conversion and Calling from those remote Parts to his Native COUNTREY With his return through the Province of Nicaragua and Costa Rica to Nicoya Panama Portobelo Cartagena and Havana with divers occurrents and dangers that did befal in the said Journey ALSO A New and exact Discovery of the Spanish Navigation to those Parts And of their Dominions Government Religion Forts Castles Ports Havens Commodities fashions behaviour of Spaniards Priests and Friers Blackmores Mulatto's Mestiso's Indians and of their Feasts and Solemnities With a Grammar or some few Rudiments of the Indian Tongue called Poconchi or Pocoman By the true and painfull endevours of THOMAS GAGE now Preacher of the Word of God at Acris in the County of KENT Anno Dom. 1648. London Printed by R. Cotes and are to be sold by Humphrey Blunden at the Castle in Cornhill and Thomas Williams at the Bible in Little Britain 1648. To His Excellency S r. THOMAS FAIRFAX Knight Lord FAIRFAX OF CAMERON CAPTAIN-GENERALL of the Parliaments Army And of all their Forces in ENGLAND and the Dominion of WALES May it please your EXCELLENCY THe Divine Providence hath hitherto so ordered my life that for the greatest part thereof I have lived as it were in exile from my native Countrey which happened partly by reason of my education in the Romish Religion and that in forraign Universities and partly by my entrance into Monasticall orders For twelve years space of which time I was wholly disposed of in that part of America called New-Spain and the parts adjacent My difficult going thither being not permitted to any but to those of the Spanish Nation my long stay there and lastly my returning home not onely to my Country but to the true knowledge and free-profession of the Gospels purity gave me reason to conceive That these great mercies were not appointed me by the heavenly Powers to the end I should bury my Talent in the earth or hide my light under a bushell but that I should impart what I there saw and knew to the use and benefit of my English Country-men And which the rather ●… held my self obliged unto because in a manner nothing hath been written of these Parts for these hundred years last past which is almost ever since the first Conquest thereof by the Spaniards who are contented to lose the honour of that wealth and felicity they have there since purchased by their great endevours so they may enjoy the safety of retaining what they have formerly gotten in peace and security In doing whereof I shall offer no Collections but such as shall arise from mine own observations which will as much differ from what formerly hath been hereupon written as the picture of a person grown to mans estate from that which was taken of him when he was but a Childe or the last hand of the Painter to the first or rough draught of the picture I am told by others that this may prove a most acceptable work but I doe tell my self that it will prove both lame and imperfect and therefore had need to shelter my self under the shadow of some high protection which I humbly pray your Excellency to afford me nothing doubting but as God hath lately made your Excellency the happy instrument not onely of saving my self but of many numbers of godly and well affected people in this County of Kent where now I reside by the favour of the Parliament from the imminent ruine and destruction plotted against them by their most implacable enemies so the same God who ●…ath led your Excellency through so many difficulties towards the settlement of the peace of this Kingdom and reduction of Ireland will after the perfecting thereof which God of his mercy hasten direct your Noble thoughts to employ the Souldiery of this Kingdom upon such just and honourable designes in those parts of America as their want of action at home may neither be a burden to themselves nor the Kingdome To your Excellency therefore I offer a New-World to be the subject of your future pains valour and piety beseeching your acceptance of this plain but faithfull relation of mine wherein your Excellency and by you the English Nation shall see what wealth and honor they have lost by one of their narrow hearted Princes who living in peace and abounding in riches did notwithstanding reject the offer of being first discoverer of America and left it unto Ferdinando of Arragon who at the same time was wholly taken up by the Warrs in gaining of the City and Kingdome of Granada from the Moores being so impoverished thereby that ●…e was compelled to borrow with some difficulty a few Crowns of a very mean man to set forth Columbus upon ●… glorious an expedition And yet if time were closely followed at the heels we are not so farr behinde but we might yet take him by the fore-top To which purpose our Plantations of the Barbadoes St. Christophers Mems and the rest of the Caribe-Islands have not onely advanced our journey the better part of the way but so inured our people to the Clime of the Indies as they are the more inabled thereby to undertake any enterprise upon the firm Land with greater facility Neither is the difficulty of the attempt so great as some may imagine for I dare be bold to affirm it knowingly That with the same pains and charge which they have been at in planting one of those pettie Islands they might have conquer'd so many great Cities and large Territories on the main Continent as might very well merit the title of a Kingdome Our Neighbors the Hollanders may be our example in this case who whilst we have been driving a private Trade from Port to Port of which we are likely now to be deprived have conquered so much Land in the East and West-Indies that it may be said of them as of the Spaniards That the Sunn never sets upon their Dominions And to meet with that objection by the way That the Spaniard being intituled to those Countries it were both unlawfull and against all conscience to dispossess him thereof I answer that the Popes donation excepted I know no title he hath but force which by the same title and by a greater force may be repelled And to bring in the title of First-discovery
to me it seems as little reason that the sailing of a Spanish Ship upon the coast of India should intitle the King of Spain to that Countrey as the sayling of an Indian or English Ship upon the coast of Spain should intitle either the Indians or English unto the Dominion thereof No question but the just right or title to those Countries appertains to the Natives themselves who if they shall willingly and freely invite the English to their protection what title soever they have in them no doubt but they may legally transferr it or communicate it to others And to say That the inhumane butchery which the Indians did formerly commit in sacrificing of so many reasonable Creatures to their wicked Idols was a sufficient warrant for the Spaniards to divest them of their Country The same argument may by much better reason be inforced against the Spa●… 〈…〉 to the Idol of their barbarous cruelty that many populous Islands and large Territorities upon the main Continent are thereby at this day utterly uni●…habited as Bartholomeo de las Casas the Spanish Bishop of Guaxaca in New-Spain hath by his Writings in Print sufficiently testified But to end all disputes of this nature since that God hath given the earth to the sons of Men to inhabite and that there are many vast Countries in those parts not yet inhabited either by Spaniard or Indian why should my Country-men the English be debarred from making use of that which God from all beginning no question did ordain for the benefit of mankinde But I will not molest your Excellency with any further argument hereupon rather offering my self and all my weak endevours such as they are to be employed herein for the good of my Country I beseech Almighty God to prosper your Excellency Who am The most devoted and humblest of your Excellencies servants THO. GAGE UPON This WORTHY WORK Of his most worthy Friend THE AVTHOR READER behold presented to thine eye What us Columbus off red long agoe Of the New-World a new discoverie Which here our Author doth so clearly show That he the state which of these Parts would know Need not hereafter search the plenteous store Of Hackluit Purchas and Ramusio Or learn'd Acosta's writings to look o're Or what Herera hath us told before Which merit not the credit due from hence Those being but reck'nings of anothers score But these the fruits of self-experience Wherein our Author useth not the sence Of those at home who doe their judgments leave And after wandring farr with vast expence See many things which they doe ne'r perceive Laborious are by study much at home To know those Parts which they came lately from Less doth he use us as the late writ-Books Of journeys made unto the Levant-States Wherein when we doe pry with curious looks Of Greece and Troy to know the present fates They tell us what Thucidides relates What Strabo writes what Homer crown'd with bayes What Authors more who have out-worn their dates Besides what Plutarch and Polibius sayes So what they were not what they are they sing And shew their reading not their travailing But here our Author neither doth us tell Or to us shew one inch of Sea or Ground Unless such acts which in his time befell Or what his eyes ●…aw the Horizon bound He uttereth nought at all he heard by sound He speaks not of a City or a Street But where ●…mself hath often gone the round And measured o're with his industrious feet And yet it must acknowledg'd be for true Since worthy Hawkins and the famous Drake Did first pres●… unto the English view This New-found-world for great Eliza's sake Renowned Raw●…eigh twice did undertake With labours great and dangers not a few A true discovery of these Parts to make And thereof writ both what he saw and knew But as the man who in a Ship doth pass Our narrow Seas the flowings of each tide The Ships course soundings turnings of the glass What Land he makes on North or Southern side He may impart But who they be abide Or what Religion Language or what Nation Possess each Coast ●…ince he hath never tride How can he make thereof a true Relation So those who have describ'd these Parts before Of Trade Winds Currents Hurican's doe tell Of Headlands Harbours trendings of the shore Of Rocks and 〈◊〉 wherein they might as well Talk of a Nut and onely shew the shell The kernell neither tasted touch'd nor seen Had yet remain'd but that it so befell That these Relations to us made have been Differing as much from what before y'have heard As doth a Land-Map from a Seamans Card. But how these truths reveal'd to us should bee When none but Spa●…iards to those Parts may go Which was establish'd by severe Decree Lest Forain people should their fec●…ets know This Order yet to be neglected so As that our Author had permission free Whose Nation too they count their greatest foe Seemeth almost a miracle to me Sure the prescience of that power Divine Which safely to those parts did him convey Did not for nought his constant heart incline There twelve whole years so patiently to stay That he each thing exactly might furvay Then him return'd nay more did turn to us And to him shew'd of bliss the perfect way Which of the rest seems most miraculous For had the last of these not truly been These fair Relations we had never seen Nor can I think but this most usefull Book In time to come may like some new-born Starr Direct such Wisemen as therein will look And shew their way unto these Regions farr And though we now lie sunk in Civill war Yet you the worthy Patriots of this Land Let not your hearts be drowned in despair And so your future happiness withstand For time will come you shall enjoy a Peace But then no longer you must joy in sinn When they no more shall raign these Wars shall cease And then your after bliss shall soon beginn The fiery trialls which you now are in In stead of foes shall prove your best of friends And you from servile base affection win To fit your hearts for high and Nobler ends Your Drums which us'd to beat their Martiall dance Upon the banks of Garone Seine and Soane Whilst you trode measures through the Realm of France Doe now at home Oh grief on both sides groane As if they did your ill spilt blood bemoane Which long agoe with Richard England's King When he the holy Warr maintain'd alone Their dreadfull notes did through Iudea ring Now shall the tawnie Indians quake for fear Their direfull march to beat when they doe hear Your brave Red-Crosses on both sides display'd The noble Badges of your famous Nation Which you ye●… r●…er with your 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And dy d them deep in drops of detestation You shall again advance with reputation And on the bou●…ds of utmost Western shore Shall them transplant and ●…mly ●…ix their station Where English
welcome to them and that the Religion they enjoyed with so much slavery was nothing sweet unto them This mortall hatred betwixt these two sorts of Spaniards made the Criolio's so ready to joyn against the Marquesse of Gelues Viceroy of Mexico in the tumult and mutiny of that City wherein they cleaving to Don Alonso de Zerna the Arch-Bishop caused the Viceroy to escape for his life by flight and would then have utterly rooted out the Spanish Government had not some Preists disswaded them from it but of this I shall speak more largely hereafter The cause of this deadly hatred hath proceeded from a jealousie which the Spaniards have ever had of the Criolio's that they would faine withdraw themselves first from the commerce with Spain and secondly from the Government which is laid upon them which is such that the Criolio's must be alwaies under and a subject alwaies governed but scarce any a Governour Never yet was there seen any Criolio made Viceroy of Mexico or Peru or President of Guatemala or Santafe or S. Domingo or Governour of Yucatan Cartagena Havana or A●…calde Mayor as they call them of Soconusco Chiapa San Salvador and such like places of credit So likewise in the Courts of Chancery as S to Domingo Mexico Guatemala Lima and the rest where commonly there are Six called Oydores and one Fiscal scarce one of them to be found a Criolio or native of the Countrey though there be among them those that descended of the chief Conquerors as in Lima and Peru the Pizarros in Mexico and Guaxaca the house of the Marquesse Dell Valle Ferdinando Cortes his Successors others of the house of Giron others of the house of Aluarado others of the Gusmanes finally many of the chiefest houses of Spain yet none of these ever preferred to any dignity And not onely thus are they kept from offices but daily affronted by the Spaniards as uncapable of any Government and termed halfe Indians by them Which generall contempt hath also spread it selfe in the Church where no Criolio Preist is scarce ever preferred to be a Bishop or Canon in a Cathredall Church but all such as come from Spain So likewise in the religious orders they have many years indeavored to keep under and suppress such as have bin admitted to their orders of the natives of the Countrey lest the number of them should prevail against those that are brought from Spain they have been very nice in choosing of them though they have been forced to admit of some yet stil the Provincials the Priors and all Superiors have been Spaniards born in Spain Till now lately some Provinces have got the upper hand and prevailed against the Spaniards have so filled their cloisters with Criolio's or natives that they have utterly refused to admit the supplies of Spanish Missions which formerly were sent unto them and till this day are sent to others In the Province of Mexico there are Dominicans Franciscans Augustines Carmelites Mercenarians and Jesuites whereof the Jesuites and Carmelites only to this day prevail against Criolio's bringing every two or three years Missions from Spain The last Mission that was sent to the Mercenarians was the year 1625. and then was the opposition such between that Mission and the Criolio's that in the election of the next Provinciall in their Cloister of Mexico the Fryers drew knives one against another and were like to kill each other had not the Viceroy gone to their Cloister to make peace and imprison some of them Yet at last by the multitude of voices the native partly prevailed and till this day have exempted themselves from Spanish Missions alleadging as others have done that they have Fryers enough in their Cloisters and need none to be sent them from Spain submitting themselves to the Pope and presenting to him as stately gifts as ever Spaniards did before them In the Province of Guaxaca none admit of Missionaries from Spain true it is the Dominicans are but newly subdued by the Criolian party and as yet are strongly pleading at Rome for Spanish Fryers alleadging that the glory and lustre of their Religion hath been much blurred since the non-admittance of supplies of their zealous Compatriots The Province of Guatemala which is of a large extent containing Guatemala Chiapa the Zoques part of Tabasco the Zeldales the Sacapulas the Vera Paz all the coast lying to the South sea Suchu●…epeques and Soconusco Comayagua Honduras S. Salvador Nicaragua hath in it these orders chiefly Dominicans Franciscans Augustines who are subject to Mexico being one poore Cloister in Guatemala Jesuites also in Guatemala subject to the goverment of Mexico and Mecenarians whereof the three orders of Dominicans Franciscans and Mercenarians are the only Preachers and parish Preists throughout all the forenamed Provinces And these three Orders have still kept under the Criolian party never as yet suffering any of them to be Provinciall bringing every two or three years some one year and some another Missions of Fryers from Spain to maintain and keep up their faction against the Criolians The Provinces of Peru being more distant from Spain and hard to come to by sea have no Missions sent unto them There are of the most Romish religious orders yet the chief are Dominicans and they all live above their vow of poverty abounding in wealth riot liberty and pleasures In the Kingdome of Nuevo reino de Granada and Cartagena Santa fee Barinas Popayan and the government of St. Martha are Dominicans Jesuites Franciscans Carmelites Augustines and Mercenarians whereof the Dominicans Jesuites and Franciscans till this day admit of Missions from Spain The Island of Cuba Iamaica la Margarita Puerto rico all are subject to the head Provinciall of Santo Domingo being Dominicans Jesuites and Franciscans and have all now and then Missions from Spain Yucatan hath in it only Franciscans who live most richly and plentifully and strongly uphold the Spanish faction with European Missions Mechoacan belongeth to the Mexican Fryers and is in the same condition as was said before of Mexico Thus have I briefly run over all America that pertains to the Crown of Castilia for the East-India's they belong to the Crown of Portingall and Brasill as first discovered and possessed by the Portingalls and now doubtlesse are subject to King Iohn the new King of Portingall Yet the Islands of Philippinas are subject to the King of Spain and there are Dominicans Franciscans Augustines and Jesuites all which lie still in wait in Manila the Metropolitan City for some sure shipping to Iapan to convert tha●… Kingd●…e And though they admit of some few Crioli'os among them especially some of their Converts of China and Iapan yet their chief number and strength is of Spanish Missionaries who are more frequently conveyed thither then to the parts afore-mentioned of America First they are sent in the ships that are bound for Nueva Espana and Mexico and after they have rested two or three moneths in Mexico they are
from ships and Castle landed the Viceroy and his Lady and all his Traine accompanyed with Don Martin de Carrillo the Visiter generall for the strife between the Count of Gelves the last Viceroy the Archbishop of Mexico The great Don and his Lady being placed under a Canope of state began the Te Deum to be sung with much variety of musicall instruments all marching in procession to the Cathedrall where with many lights of burning lampes torches Wax candles was to the view of all set upon the high Altar their God of bread to whom all knees were bowed a prayer of thanks-giving sung holy water by a Preist sprinkled upon all the people and lastly a Masse with three preists solemnly celebrated This being ended the Viceroy was attended on by the Chief High Justice named Alc●…lde Major by the Officers of the Town some Judges sent from Mexico to that purpose and all the Souldiers of the Ships and Town unto his lodging The Fryers likewise in Procession with their Crosse before them were conducted to their severall Cloisters Fryer Calvo presented his Dominicans to the Prior of the Cloister of St. Dominicke who entertained us very lovingly with some sweet Meates and every one with a Cup of the Indian drink called Chocolatte whereof I shall speake hereafter This refreshment being ended wee proceeded to a better which was a most stately Dinner both of Fish and Flesh no Fowles were spared many Capons Turky Cocks and Hens were prodigally lavished to shew us the abundance and plenty of Provision of that Country The Prior of this Cloister was no stayed ancient grey-headed man such as usually are made Superiours to govern young and wanton Fryers but hee was Gallant and Amorous young Sparke who as wee were there informed had obtained from his Superiour the Provinciall the Government of that Convent with a Bribe of a thousand Duckats After dinner hee had some of us to his Chamber where wee observed his lightnesse and little savour of Religion or Mortification in him We thought to have found in his Chamber some stately Library which might tel us of Learning and love of Study but we found not above a dozen old Bookes standing in a corner covered with dust and Cobwebs as if they were ashamed that the Treasure that lay hid in them should be so much forgotten and undervalued and the Guitarra the Spanish Lute preferred and set above them His Chamber was richly dressed and hung with many pictures and with hangings some made with Cotten Wooll others with various coloured feathers of Mechoacan his Tables covered with Carpets of Silk his Cubboards adorned with severall sorts of China Cups and Dishes stored within with severall dainties of sweet Meates and Conserves This sight seemed to the zealous Fryers of our Mission most vaine and unbeseeming a poore and mendicant Fryer to the others whose end in comming from Spain to those parts was Liberty and loosnesse and covetousnesse of riches this sight was pleasing and gave them great incouragement to enter further into that Country where soone a Mendicant Lazarus might become a proud and wealthy Dives The discourse of the young and light headed Prior was nothing but vaine boasting of himself of his birth his parts his favour with the chiefe Superior or Provinciall the love which the best Ladies the richest Merchants Wives of the Towne bare unto him of his cleere and excellent voice and great dexterity in Musick whereof he presently gave us a taste tuning his Guitarra and singing to us some verses as hee said of his owne composing some lovely Amaryllis adding scandall to scandall loosenesse to liberty which it grieved some of us to see in a Superiour who should have taught with words and in his life and Conversation examples of Repentance and Mortification No sooner were our senses of hearing delighted well with Musick our sight with the objects of Cotten-Wool Silke and Feather workes but presently our Prior caused to be brought forth of all his store of dainties such variety as might likewise relish well and delight our sense of tasting Thus as wee were truely transported from Europe to America so the World seemed truely to bee altered our senses changed from what they were the night day before when we heard the hideous noise of the Mariners ●…oifing up Sailes when wee saw the deep and monsters of it when we tasted the stinking water when we smelt the Tarre and Pitch but here wee heard a quivering and trembling voice and instrument well tuned wee beheld wealth and riches wee tasted what was sweet and in the Sweet-meates smelt the Muske and Civit wherewith that Epicurean Prior had seasoned his Conserves Here wee broke up our discourse and pastimes desirous to walke abroad and take a view of the Towne having no more time then that and the next day to stay in it Wee compassed it round about that afternoone and found the situation of it to bee sandy except on the South-West side where it is Moorish ground and full of standing Bogs which with the great heates that are there cause it to bee a very unhealthy place The number of Inhabitants may bee three thousand and amongst them some very rich Merchants some worth two hundred some three hundred and some foure hundred thousand Duckats Of the buildings little we observed for they are all both Houses Churches and Cloisters built with Boards and Timber the Walls of the richest mans house being made but of boards which with the impetuous Winds from the North hath bin cause that many times the town hath bin for the most part of it burnt down●…o the ground The great Trading from Mexico by Mexico from the East-India's from Spain from Cuba Sto. Domingo Iucatan Portables and by Portabello from Peru from Cartagena and all the Islands lying upon the North Sea and by the River Alvarado going up to Zap●…tecas St. Ildefonso and towards Guaxaca and by the River Grijala running up to Tabasco Los Zoques and Chiapa de Indios maketh this little Town very rich and to abound with all the Commodities of the Continent Land and of all the East and West-India's Treasures The unhealthinesse of the place is the reason of the paucity of Inhabitants and the paucity of them together with the rich Trading and commerce the reasons that the Merchants therein are extraordinary rich who yet might have been farre richer had not the Town been so often fired and they in th●… fire had great losses All the strength of this Towne is first the hard and dangerous entrance into the Haven and secondly a rock which lyeth before the Town lesse then a Musket shot off upon which is built a Castle and in the Castle a slight Garrison of Souldiers In the Town there is neither Fort nor Castle nor scarce any people of warlike mindes The Rocke and Castle are as a Wall defence and inclosure to the Haven which otherwise lyeth wide open to the Ocean and to the Northern
Winds No Ship dares cast anchor within the Haven but onely under the Rock and Castle and yet not sure enough so with Anchors except with Cables also they be bound and fastened to Rings of Iron for that purpose to the side of the Rock from whence sometimes it hath happened that Ships floating with the Stream too much on one side the Rocke have been driven off and cast upon the other Rockes or out to the Ocean the Cables of their Anchors and those wherewith they have beene fastned to the Castle being broken with the force of the Winds This happened to one of our Ships the first night after we landed who were happy that we were not then at Sea for there arose such a storme and Tempest from the North that it quite broke the Cables of one Ship and drove it out to the maine Sea and wee thought it would have blowne and droven us out of our beds after it for the slight boarded houses did so totter shake that we expected every houre when they would fal upon our heads We had that first night enough of St. Iohn de Ulhua and little rest though feasted as well at Supper as at Dinner by our vaine boasting Prior who before wee went to bed had caused all our feet to bee washed that now in easier beds then for above two moneths together the strait and narrow Cabins of the Ship had allowed us our sleep might be more quiet and more nourishing to our bodies but the whistling Winds and tottering Chambers which made our Beds uneasie Cradles to us caused us to flie from our rest at midnight and with our bare though washed feet to seeke the dirty Yard for safer shelter In the morning the Fryers of the Cloister who were acquainted with those winds and storms laughed at our fearefulnesse assuring us that they never slept better then when their Beds were rocked with such like blasts But that nights affrightment made us weary already of our good and kind entertainment wee desired to remo●…e from the Sea side which our Superiour Calvo yeelded to not for our feare sake so much as for his feare lest with eating too much of the fruits of that Countrey and drinking after them too greedily of the water which causeth dangerous Fluxes and hasteneth death to those that newly come from Spain to those parts wee should fall sick and die there as hundreds did after our departure for want of temperance in the use of those fruits which before they had never seen or eaten Thirty Mules were ready for us which had bin brought a purpose from Mexico and had waited for us in St. Iohn de Ulhua six days before ever the Fleet arrived Calvo that day busied himselfe a Ship board in sending to shore our Chests and such Provision as had been left of Wines and Bisket Gammons of Bacon and salted Beefe whereof there was some store besides a dozen Hens and three Sheep which was much wondred at that so much should be left after so long a voiage In the mean time we visited our friends and tooke our leaves of them in the forenoone and after Dinner seats were prepared for us in the Cathedrall Church to sit and see a Comedy acted which had beene on purpose studied and prepared by the Town for the entertainment of the new Viceroy of Mexico Thus two daies onely we abode in St. Iohn de Ulhua and so departed CHAP. IX Of our journey from S t. John de Ulhua to Mexico and of the most remarkeable Townes and Villages in the way VPon the 14. day of September we left the Town and Port of S. Iohn de Ulhua entring into the rode to Mexico which we found the first three or four leagues to bee very sandy as wide and open as is our rode from London to S. Albans The first Indians we met with was at the old Vera Crux a Towne seated by the sea side which the Spaniards that first conquered that countrey thought to have made their chief Harbour but afterwards by reason of the small shelter they found in it for their ships against the North winds they left it and removed to S. Iohn de Ulhua Here we began to discover the power of the Preists and Fryers over the poore Indians and their subjection and obedience unto them The Prior of S. Iohn de Ulhua had writ a letter unto them the day before of our passing that way charging them to meet us in the way and to welcome us into those parts which was by the poor Indians gallantly performed for two miles before we came to the Towne there met us on Horseback some twenty of the chiefe of the Towne presenting unto every one of us a nosegay of flowers who rid before us a bow shot till we met with more company on foot to wit the Trumpeters the Waits who sounded pleasantly all the way before us the Officers of the Church such as here we call Church-wardens though more in number according to the many sodalities or confraternities of Saints whom they serve these likewise presented to each of us a nosegay next met us the singing men and boyes all the Quiristers who softly and leisurely walked before us singing Te Deum laudamus till we came to the midst of the Towne where were two great Elmetrees the chiefe Market place there was set up one long arbour with green bowes and a table ready furnished with boxes of conserves and other sweat meates and diet-bread to prepare our stomacks for a cup of Chocolatte which while it was seasoning with the hot water and Sugar the chiefe Indians and Officers of the Towne made a speech unto us having first kneeled downe and kissed our hands one by one they welcomed us into their Countrey calling us the Apostles of Jesus Christ thanked us for that we had left our own Countrey our friends our fathers a●…d mothers for to save their soules they told us they honoured us as Gods upon earth and many such complements they used till our Chocolatte was brought We refreshed ourselves for the space of one hour and gave hearty thanks to the Indians for their kind respects unto us assuring them that nothing was more deare unto us in this world then their souls which that we might save wee regarded not sea nor land dangers nor the unhumane cruelties of barbarous and savage Indians who as yet had no knowledge of the true God no nor our owne lives And thus we took our leaves giving unto the chief of them some Beads some medals some Crosses of brasse some Agnus Dei some reliques brought from Spain and to every one of the Town an Indulgence of fourty years which the Pope had granted unto us to bestow where and upon whom and as often as wee would where with we began to blind that simple people with ignorant erroneous and Popish principles As we went out of arbour to take our Mules behold the Market place was full of Indian men and
the residue of his Army to follow him with as much speed as might be so that with that company which he carried with him he made way taking away the trees that were cut downe to disturbe his passage and in this order in short time passed his host without any hurt or danger but with great pain and travaile for certainly if the Mexicans had been there to defend that passage the Spaniards had not passed for it was then a very evill way though now it be a reason●…ble wide open rode where Mules laden with wares from St. John de Ulhua and the Sugar farmes daily passe and the Mexicans also thought the same to be sure with the trees which were crossed the way whereupon they were carelesse of that place and attended their coming in plain ground for from Tlaxcallan to Mexico are three wayes of the which Cortez chose the worst imagining the thing that afterwards fell out or else some had advised him how that way was cleare from the enemies At the descent of this hill Cortez abode and rested himselfe till all the whole Army were come together to descend downe into the plaine for from hence they descried the fires and beacons of their enemies in sundry places and all those who had attended their ●…ing by the other two waies were now gathered together thinking to set upon them betwixt certain bridges which are in the plain made for travellers by reason of the many dikes and currents of water which issue from the lake where a great company abode expecting their coming But Cortez sent twenty Horse-men who made way among them and then followed the whole Army who ●…lew many of them without receiving any hurt Thus did the remembrance of those antiquities newly refreshed by the object of the hill and plain beneath make that cold and hard passage more comfortable and easie unto us The first Towne we came to below the hill was Quabutipec of the jurisdiction of Tezcuco where we also called to mind that this was the place neer unto which was pitched the Campe of the Indians of Culhua which was neer a hundred thousand men of warre who were sent by the Seniors of Mexico and Tezcuco to encounter Cortez but all in vain for his Horse-men broke through them and his Artillerie made such havock among them that they were soon put to flight Three leagues from hence on our right hand as we travailed we discovered Tezcuco by the side of the lake and out of the Rode yet it ministred unto us matter of a large discourse taken from the time of Cortez and the first Conquerers who found it a great City and at that time even as big as Mexico though in it Cortez met with no resistance for as he journeyed towards it foure principall persons inhabitants of it met with his forces bearing a rod of gold with a little flag in token of peace saying that Coacuacoyocin their Lord had sent them to desire him not to make any spoile in his City and Townes about it and likewise to offer his friendship praying also that it might please him with his whole Army to take his lodging in the Town of Tezcuco where he should be well received Cortez rejoycing at this message yet jealous of some treachery and mistrusting the people of Tezcuco whose forces joyned with the Mexicans and Culhuacans he had met with a little before went forward on his way and came to Quahutichan and Huaxuta which then were suburbs of the great City Tezcuco but now are petty Villages by themselves where he and all his host were plenteously provided of all things necessary and threw down the Idols This done he entred into the City where his lodging was prepared in a great house sufficient for him and all the Spaniards with many other his Indian friends And because that at his first entry he saw neither women nor children he suspect●…d some treason and forthwith proclaimed upon pain of death that none of his men should goe out In the evening the Spaniards went up into the Z●…ties and galleries to behold the City and there they saw the great number of Citizens that fled from thence with their stuffe some towards the mountaines and others to the water side to take boat a thing strange to see the great haste and stirre to provide for themselves There were at that time at least twenty thousand little boats called Canoas occupied in carrying houshold-stuffe and passengers Cortez would faine have remedied it but the night was so nigh at hand that he could not He would gladly also have apprehended the Lord but hee was one of the first that fled unto Mexico This Towne of Tezcuco to this day is famous among the Spaniards for that it was one of the first if not the first which according to the Histories of those parts is very probable that received a Christian King to rule and governe For Cortez hearing that Coacuacoyocin then King of that City and Townes adjacent was fled caused many of the Citizens to be called before him and having in his company a young gentleman of a Noble house in that countrey who had been lately christened and had to name Hernando Cortez being his God-father who loved him well said unto the Citizens that this new Christian Lord Don Hernando was sonne unto Nez●…valpincintli their loving Lord wherefore he required them to make him their King confidering that Coacuacoyocin was fled unto the enemies laying also before them his wicked fact in killing of Cacuz●… his owne brother onely to put him from his inheritance and Kingdome through the ●…uticement of Quahutim●…cin a mortall enemy to the Spaniards In this sort was that new Christian Don Hernando elected King and the fame thereof being blown abroad many Citizens repaired home again to visit their new Prince so that in short space the City was as well replenished with people as it was before and being also well used at the Spanirds hands they served them diligently in all things that they were commanded And Don Hornando abode ever after a faithfull friend unto the Spaniards in their warres against Mexico and in short time learned the Spanish tongue And soone after came the inhabitants of Quahutichan Huaxuta and 〈◊〉 to submit themselves craving pardon if in any thing they had offended Within two daies after Don Hernando was made King of this great City and Territorie belonging to it whose borders reach unto the borders of Tlaxcallan came certaine gentlemen of Huaxuta and Quobutichan to certifie unto him how all the power of the Mexicans was coming towards them and to know if it were his pleasure that they should carry their wives children and other goods into the mountaines or else to bring them where he was their feare was so great Cortez for the King his God-child and favourite made unto them this answer saying Bee ye of good courage and feare ye not Also I pray you to command your wives and families to make no
which was first made knowne to Europe by Columbus his second navigation This Island is full of Forrests Lakes and mountaines The aire is very temperate the soile very fertill producing brasse of exact perfection and some gold though drossie hath formerly been found in it It aboundeth also with Ginger Cassia Masticke Aloes some Cinnamon Cana fistula Zarzaparilla and Sugar and hath of flesh fish and fowles great plenty but especially such store of sea Tortois and Hogs that the ships at their returne to Spaine make their chiefe provision of them My selfe chanced to take physicke there and whereas I thought that day I should have a fowle or rabbet after my physicks working they brought me a boyled peece of fresh young Porke which when I refused to eat they assured me it was the best dish the Doctors did use to prescribe upon such daies The chiefe Cities of this Island are Santiago on the Northerne shore built by Iames de Valaseo a Bishops seat and secondly Havana which is also on the Northerne shore and is a safe Rode for ships and the staple of merchandize and as the Spaniards call it the key of all the West-India's to lock up or unlock the doore or entrance to all America Here rideth the King of Spaines Navy and here meet all the Merchant ships from severall ports and Havens of all those Countries afore-named whether from the Islands or from the Continent in a word here commonly in the month of September is joyned all the treasure as I may say of America all the King of Spains revenews with as much more of Merchant goods which the yeer that I was there were thought to be in all the worth of thirty millions And the ships which that yeer there did meet to strengthen one another were 53. saile and set out sooner that yeer then any other upon the 16. of September having that day a faire wind to wafte them homewards through the Gulf of Bahama Havana therefore being the store-house of all Americaes treasure it hath been the Spaniards chiefe care to fortifie that and truely it is so strong that the Spaniards hold it impossible to be taken and doe boast of foure impregnable forts to wit at Antwerp Millan Pamplona and Havana This hath two strong Castles the one at the point or entrance of the Haven toward the Sea the other more within on the other side almost over against it which two Castles the passage in the mouth of the haven being so narrow that one onely ship in breast may enter will keep and defend the Port from many hundred saile I was my selfe in the great and chiefe Castle and truly found it very strong though by land I judged it might be as easily taken as other strong Castles here in Europe have been overpowerd by a great and powerfull army It hath in it besides many others twelve peeces of Ordnance of brasse exceeding great which they call The twelve Apostles But for all this strength of the Havana it could not once defend six or seven millions according to the Spaniards owne account which the one part of the Kings Navy brought from St. Iohn de Ulhua to the sight of this impregnable fort and protected with such twelve Apostles It was as I take it the yeer 1629. when that ever renowned Hollander whom like unto our Drake the Spaniards to this day fear and tremble at calling him Pie de Palo that is wooden leg waited at the Cape of St. Anthrny for the Spanish fleet of Nova Hispania which according to his expectation coming he manly set upon it saluting and welcoming the great treasure in it with a full side of roaring Ordnance the sound was more dolefull then joyfull and welcome to the Spaniards who thought it safer sleeping in a whole skinne then to be unquieted by fighting and with the sight of torne and mangled bodies by Mars his furious and fiery balls and so called a Councell of warre to resolve what they should doe to save the Kings great treasure which was intrusted to them in those ships The result of the Councell was to flie and with some discharging of their Ordinance to defend themselves untill they could put into a river in the Island of Cuba not far from Havana called Matanzos There were in that fleet of Spaine many gallants and Gentlemen and two Judges of the Chancery of Mexico which were that yeer sent to Madrid as guilty in the mutiny before mentioned there was in it of my acquaintance a Dominican Frier named Frier Iacintho de Hozes who had been sent to those parts to visit all the Dominican Cloisters of New-Spaine and had got of bribes at least eight thousand duckats as I was informed the yeer after by a Frier his compainon whom he sent from Havana to Guatemala to make knowne to his friends his losse of all that hee had got and to beg a new contribution to helpe him home there was also in that fleet Don Martin de Carillo who was the Inquisitor and Commissioner to judge the Delinquents in the fore-mentioned mutiny of Mexico who was thought to have got twenty thousand duckats cleer besides these a Bishop and many rich Merchants all under the command of Don Iuan de Guzman y Torres Admirall to all the fleet They all fled for their lives and goods but the gallant Hollanders chased them The Spaniards thinking the Hollanders would not venture up the river after them put into Matanzos but soone after they had entred they found the river too shallow for their heavy and great bellied Galeons and so run them up on ground which done the better and richer sort escaped to land endeavouring to escape with what wealth they could some got out Cabinets some bags which the Hollanders perceiving came upon them with bullet messengers which soone overtooke and stopt their flying treasures Some few Cabinets were hid all the rest became that day the gallant Pie de Palo or the wooden legd Captaines prize for the mighty States of Holland The Frier Hozes was got into a boat with his Cabinet under his habit which had in it nothing but chaines of gold diamonds Pearles and pretious stones and halfe a dozen Hollanders leapt into the boat after him and snatched it from him as his owne friend and companion related after to us in Guatemala Don Iuan de Guzman y Torres the Admirall when he came to Spaine was imprisoned lost his wits for a while and after was beheaded Thus in the sight of impregnable Havana and of those 12 brazen Apostles was Holland glorious and made rich with a seven million prize But before I end this Chapter I may not forget the chiefest of all the Islands of this new world which is called Hispaniola formerly by the natives Hatie which lamenteth the losse of at least three millions of Indians murthered by her new Masters of Spaine This Island is the biggest that as yet is discovered in al the world it is in compasse about 1500.
made of the juyce of the yong Maiz or Indian wheat which they so confection with spices musk and sugar that it is not onely admirable in the sweetnesse of the smell but much more nourishing and comforting the stomack This is not a Commoditie that can bee transported from thence but is to be drunk there where it is made But the other Chocolatte is made up in Boxes and sent not onely to Mexico and the parts thereabouts but much of it is yeerly transported into Spain This City of Guaxaca is the richer by reason of the safety they enjoy for the carriage of their Commodities to and from the port of St. Iohn de Ulhua by the great River Alvarado which runneth not far from it and although the Barkes come not to the City of Guaxaca yet they come up to the Zapotecas and to St. Ildefonso which is not farre from Guaxaca And the carelessenesse of the Spaniards here is to bewondred at that all along this River which runneth up into the heart of their Country they have built as yet no Castles Towers or watch-houses or planted any Ordinance trusting onely in this that great ships cannot come up as if Frigots or smaller Barks such as they themselves use may not bee made to annoy them But of Guaxaca I shall say no more but conclude that it is of so temperate an aire so abounding in fruits and all provision requisite for mans life so commodiously situated between the North and South Sea having on the North side St. Iohn de Ulbua and on the South Tecoantepeque a small and unfortified harbour that no place I so much desired to live in whilest I was in those patrs as in Guaxaca which certainly I had attempted as I travailed by it had I not understood that the Criolian or Native Fryers were many and as deadly enemies unto those that came from Spain as were the Mexicans And this their spight and malice they shewed whilest wee were there to an ancient and grave old Fryer Master in Divinity who living had been for learning the Oracle of those parts This old man died when I was there and because when hee lived they could pick no hole in his Coat being dead they searched his chamber and finding in a Coffer some moneys which hee had not made knowne to his Superiour when living which they would reduce to a sinne against his posessed poverty called Propriety and subject to the censure of Excommunication they reported that hee had died excommunicated and might not injoy their Christian buriall in the Church or Cloister and so ignominiously buried their old Divine and with him his Crredit and reputation in a grave made in one of their Gardens A thing much talked on as scandalous to all the City and Country which they salved with saying hee was excommunicated but the truth was he was of Spaine and therefore at his death they would shew their spight unto him For certainly they could not doe it for the sinne of Propriety which by him had been committed in his life and to them all may be well said what our Saviour said to the Jewes bringing to him a woman found in adultery to bee stoned Whosoever of you is without sinne let him cast the first stone for all of them yea even the best Fryers that live in America are some way or other much or lesse guilty of the sinne of Propriety which they professe and vow against With this which wee saw with our eyes besides what with our eares wee had heard of discords and factions amongst them wee thought Guaxaca was no place for us to live in so after three daies we made haste out of it and departed towards Chiapa which lyeth three hundred miles from thence And for our comfort in our further travailing we were informed in Guaxaca that in most Towns of the Rode through that country the Indians had an order from the High Justice to give unto Fryers travailing that way either horse to ride on or to carry their carriages and provision of food freely without mony if they had none so that at their departure they should write it down in the town booke what they had spent not abiding above foure and twenty houres in the Town which expences of travailers the Indians afterwards at the yeers end of their ordinary Justice and Officers were to give an account of with carrying their Towne book unto the Spanish Justice to whom they belonged and by so doing these expences were allowed of to bee discharged by the common Towne Purse or Treasure for the which a common plot of ground was alloted to bee yeerly sowen with wheat or Maiz. With this charitable relief and help of the Townes wee conceived better of the rest of our long journey and hoped to compasse it with more ease And so joyfully we went on and the first place where wee made triall of this order was at a great Town called Antequera where wee freely called for our fowles and what other provision we saw in the Town fed heartily on them and the next day when we were to pay and to depart wee called for the Town book subscribed our hands to what wee had spent our selves and horses and went our way praising the discretion of the Justices of that Country who had setled a course so easy and comfortable for us especially who had but shallow purses for our long journy Yet we found in some small Towns that the Indians were unwilling and as they alleadged unable to extend this Charity to us being foure in company and bringing with us the charge likewise of foure horses which made us sometimes make the longer journey that wee might reach unto some great and rich Towne The next to Antiquera in that Rode is Nixapa which is of at the least eight hundred Inhabitans Spaniards and Indians standing upon the side of a River which wee were informed was an arme of the great River Alvarado In this Town is a very rich Cloister of Dominican Fryers where we were well entertained in it there is a picture of our Lady which superstitiously they fancy to have wrought miracles and is made a pilgrimage from far and neere and consequently hath great riches and Lampes belonging unto it This is counted absolutely one of the wealthiest places of all the Countrey of Guaxaca for here is made much Indigo Sugar Cochinill and here grow many trees of Cacao and Achiotte whereof is made the Chocolatte and is a commodity of much trading in those parts though our English and Hollanders make little of it when they take a prize of it at Sea as not knowing the secret virtue and quallity of it for the good of the stomack From hence we went to Aguatulco and Capalita also great Towns standing upon a plain Country full of Sheep and Cattell abounding with excellent fruits especially Pines and Sandia's which are as big as Pumpions and so waterish that they even melt like snow in the mouth
cool the heat which there is great by reason it is a low and Marsh kind of ground lying neer the South Sea The next chief Town and most considerable after Capalita is Tecoantequepete this is a Sea Town upon Mar del Zur and a harbour for small vessels such as Trade from those parts to Acapulco and Mexico and to Realejo and Guatemala and sometimes to Panama Here upon some occasions Ships which come from Peru ' to Acapulco doe call in It is a port no farthet safe then that no English or Holland Ships doe come thereabouts which if they did they would there find no resistance but from thence would finde an open and easie Rode over all the Countrey Upon all this South Sea side from Acapulco to Panama which is above two thousand miles by land there is no open harbour but this for Guaxaca and La Trinidad for Guatemala and Realejo for Nicaragua and Golfo de Salinas for small vessels in Costa Rica and all these unprovided of Ordnance and Ammunition all open dores to let in any Nation that would take the pains to surround the World to get a treasure This port of Tecoantepeque is the chiefe for fishing in all that Countrey wee met him in the wayes sometimes with fifty sometimes with a hundred mules together laden with nothing but salt fish for Guaxaca City of the Angels and Mexico There are some very rich Merchants dwell in it who trade with Mexico Peru and Philippinas sending their small vessels out from Port to Port which come home richly laden with the Commodities of all the Southerne or Easterne parts From hence to Guatemala there is a plaine Rode along the Coast of the South Sea passing through the Provinces of Soconuzco and Suchutepeques but wee aiming at Chiapa tooke our journey over the high Rocks and Mountaines called Quelenes travailing first from Tecoantepeque to Estepeque and from thence through a desert of two dayes journey where wee were faine to lodge one night by a spring of water upon the bare ground in open wide fields where neither Town nor house is to bee seene yet thatcht lodges are purposely made for travailers This plain lyeth so open to the Sea that the wind from thence blow so strongly and violently that travailers are scarce able to ●…it their horses and mules which is the reason no people inhabit there because the windes teare their houses and the least fire that there breaks out doth a great deale of mischief This plaine yet is full of Cattell and Horses and Mares some wild some tame and through this windy Champaigne Country with much adoe we travailed though my self thought I should even there end my daies for the second day being to reach to a Towne and my three friends riding before thinking that I followed them evening now drawing on they made more hast to find the Town But in the meane while my horse refused to goe any further threatning to lie downe if I put him to more then hee was able I knew the towne could not be far and so I lighted thinking to walke and lead my horse who also refused to bee led and so lay downe With this a troop of thoughts beset mee and to none I could give a flat answer I thought if I should goe on foot to finde out the Towne and my company and leave my horse there sadled I might both lose my selfe and my horse and saddle and if I should find the Towne and come in the morning for my horse the plain was so wide and spatious that I might seeke long enough and neither finde him nor know the place where I left him for there was nothing neere to marke the place nor where to hide the saddle neither hedge tree shrub within a mile on any side Wherefore I considered my best course would bee to take up my lodging in the wide and open wildernesse with my horse and to watch him lest hee should wander and stray away untill the morning or untill my friends might send from the towne to see what was become of mee which they did not that night thinking I had taken my way to another Town not far from thence whither they sent in the morning to enquire for me I looked about therefore for a commodious place to rest in but found no choice of lodgings every where I found a bed ready for mee which was the bare ground a bolster onely or pillow I wanted for my head and seeing no bank did kindly offer it selfe to ease a lost stranger and pilgrime I unsadled my weary Jade and with my saddle fitted my head in stead of a pillow Thus without a supper I went to bed in my Mothers owne bosome not a little comforted to see my tired horse pluck up his spirits and make much of his supper which there was ready for him of short dry and withered grasse upon which hee sed with a greedy and hungry stomack promising mee by his feeding that the next day he would performe a journey of at least thirty or forty miles The poor beast fed apace my careful eye watched him for at least an houre when upon a suddain I heard such an hideous noise of howling barking and crying as if a whole Army of dogs were come into the wildernesse and howled for want of a prey of some dead horse or mule At first the noise seemed to be a pretty way off from mee but the more I hearkened unto it the nigher it came unto mee and I perceived it was not of dogs by some intermixt shriekings as of Christians which I observed in it An observation too sad for alone man without any helpe or comfort in a wildernesse which made my haire to stand upright my heart to pant my body to bee covered with a fearfull sweat as of death I expected nothing else not knowing from whence the noise proceeded sometimes I thought of Witches sometimes of devils sometimes of Indians turned into the shape of beasts which amongst some hath beene used sometimes of wild and savage beasts and from all these thoughts I promised my self nothing but sure death for the which I prepared my selfe recommending my soule to the Lord whilst I expected my body should bee a prey to cruell and mercilessesse beasts or some instruments of that roaring Lion who in the Apostle goeth about seeking whom he may devoure I thought I could not any waies prevaile by flying or running away but rather might that way runne my selfe into the jawes of death to hide there was no place to lie still I thought was safest for if they were wild beasts they might follow their course another way from mee and so I might escape Which truly proved my safest course for while I lay sweating and panting judging every cry every howling and shrieking an alarm to my death being in this agony and fearfull conflict till about midnight on a suddain the noise ceased sleep though but the shadow of death seized upon my wearied
there to abide untill hee tooke further care of us to send us to other parts of the Country to learne the Indian languages that wee might preach unto them This discourse being ended wee betooke our selves again to the Garden which smelled more of comfort then before dinner and to our shady walks which now offered us a safer protection then they had done in the forenoone countenancing that protection which we had gained from the Provinciall Here we began to praise God who had looked upon us in our low estate not forgetting the wise and politick Provinciall who though hee had lost his games for our comfort wee would not hee should lose our prayers which there wee offered up to God for his health and safety And so till supper time wee continued our discourse in the Garden fuller of mirth and pleasant jests then wee had done before dinner snatching now and then at the Oranges and Lemmons which were there both sowre and sweet eating of some and casting some one at another but especially at him who had wished himselfe with Calvo dressing his rusty Bacon whom we strived to beat out of the garden by force of Orange and Lemmon bullets which sport we continued the more willingly because wee perceived the good Provinciall stood behind a Lattice in a Balcony beholding us and rejoycing to see our hearts so light and merry Wee had no sooner beat Calvo his friend out of the garden when the bell to supper founded a retreat to us all and called us again to meet our best friend Alvarez who had furnished us a Table againe like that at noone After supper hee told us that the next morning hee would send us to Chiapa for that the Prior had writ unto him he would meet us in the way with a Breakfast at a Towne called St. Philip wherewith wee conceited very highly of our selves to see that Provincialls and Priors were so forward to feast us Yet before we went to bed the Provinciall would try again a game at Tables with every one of us to see if now hee could beat us that had been too hard for him at noon The matter of our game was now altered and what we played for was this if the Provinciall wun wee were to bee his prisoners which mystery wee understood not till the next day for the old man was crafty and Politick and knew hee could winne of us when he listed for hee was an excellent gamester at Tables but if wee wun of him hee was to give us a box of Chocolatte which was a drinke wee liked very well The Game went on and wee every one of us one by one were losers yet understood not how wee should bee his prisoners but slighted our losses Yet for all this the merry Provinciall told us hee was sory wee had lost and wished wee might never bee prisoners to a worse enemie then hee and that wee should perceive it hee would comfort us each one as a prisoner with a box of Chocolatte to drinke for his sake and to comfort our hearts when most wee should find them discomforted for our losses Wee understood not his meaning till the next day at noone but thought it was a jest and a word of sport and mirth like many such like which in his discourse had come from him With this wee tooke our leaves and went to bed with light and herry hearts In the morning two Mules of the Provinciall and two of his Companion were sadled for us and at least a dozen Indians on horse back waited for us to conduct us up a steepy hill and through woods to the Towne of St. Philip. After our breakfast the good Provinciall imbraced us and bad us farewell desiring us to pray for him and not to bee discouraged by any thing that might befall us assuring us hee wished us very well and would doe what lay in his power for our good yet so that hee must use policy and discretion to stop the mouths of the Criolians whom hee knew hated both him and us Thus we departed with Waits and Trumpets sounding before us which rebounded an Echo all the way up the hill from us to old Alvarez whom we had left in a low bottome compassed about with hils on every side Wee had no sooner ascended up to the top of the Mountaine when we discovered a little Valley and in it the City of Chiapa of the Spaniards with two or three small Villages of which one was St. Philip at the bottom of the Mountaine which we were to descend The Trumpets which still went sounding before us were a sufficient and loud Alarme to St. Philips Inhabitants of our coming and a warning for the speedier hastening of our second breakfast for the which the cold morning aire which wee found somewhat piercing upon the Mountaine had whetted and through prepared our stomacks We had not got down the Mountaine halfe a mile when wee met with a matter of twenty gallant Indians on horseback with their trumpeters sounding before them and behind them came upon a stately Mule the Prior of Chiapa whose name was Father Iohn Baptist a merry fat Fryer who calling us his brethren fugitives from Philippinas told us wee were welcome to that country and to him especially and that in the next St. Philip he would shew us better sport then any St. Philip in all the Philippinas Islands could have shewed us if wee had gone thither Thus with a pleasant discourse and many merry conceits from the good Prior wee soone came downe the hill where the whole Village of St. Philip waited for us both men and women some presenting unto us nosegaies others burling Roses and other flowers in our faces others dancing before us all along the street which was strowed with herbes and Orange leaves and adorned with many Arches made with flowers and hung with garlands for us to ride under untill wee came to the Church where for halfe an houre wee were welcomed with the best musick from the City of Chiapa which the Prior had hired to come with him to entertaine us Our Musick being ended ●…at Father Iohn Baptist stood up and made a short speech unto the Indians giving them thankes for their kind and pompous entertainment of us his speciall friends and that their soules might gaine by it hee granted unto them a plenary indulgenee of all their sinne●… past to bee gained by as many of them as should visit that Church the next Lords Day either before or afternoon And that from the Altar wee went unto our breakfasting Table which was furnished with many well seasoned dishes of sale and well peppered and spiced meats all ●…it to make us 〈◊〉 better a cup of Spanish Pier Ximeny which the Prior had provided form After our salt meats came such rare and exquisite sorts of sweet meats made by Iohn Baptist his be●… devoted Nuns of Chiapa that the like wee had not seen from St. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to th●…t place These were
or fountaine of the great River of Chiapa of the Indians which is the onely remarkable thing in that Rode Cuchumatlan grande is a Towne a little bigger then St. Martin and of Indians very curteous who are used and beaten to daily travellers and so make very much of them Here I was entertained as the night before and found the poore Indians willing to give mee whatsoever I demanded for my better and safer guiding and conducting the next day and that night for my supper what I pleased to call for without any pay but onely writing down my name and expences with the day and moneth in their common booke of accounts This are those poore wretches brought to by the Fryers and commanding Justices though of themselves they have no more then a Milpa of Maiz as they terme it or a little Indian Wheat Plantation with as much Chile as will suffice them for the yeer and what the Merchants and Travellers give them voluntarily which is little enough From this Town I would not follow the Rode to the next which was a long journy of seven or eight leagues without baiting by the way and also because I had beene informed at Chiapa and at Copanabastla of a strange picture of our Lady which was amongst these Mountaines in a little Towne of Indians called Chiantla which in this dayes journy being not above a league out of my way I was resolved to see The wayes were bad lying out of the Rode yet by noon I got to Chiantla which is a Town belonging unto Mercenarian Fryers who doubtlesse would not be able to subsist in so poore a place had they not invented that loadstone of their picture of Mary and cried it up for miraculous to draw people farre and neere and all travellers from the Rode to pray unto it and to leave their gifts and almes unto them for their prayers and Masses Such an income of treasure and riches hath beene from deluded and ignorant soules to this beggerly Towne that the Fryers have had wherewith to build a Cloister able to maintaine foure or five of them The Church is richly furnished but especially the high Altar where the picture standeth in a Tabernacle with half a dozen curtaines of Silk Sattin cloth of gold with borders of golden lace before it wearing a rich Crowne of gold thickly beset with Diamonds and other pretious stones There hang before it at least a dozen rich lampes of silver and in the vestry of the Church are many gownes Candlestickes of silver Censers to burn Frankincense before it besides rich Copes Vestments Ornaments for the Altar and hangings for all the Church To conclude here is a treasure hid in the Mountaines Oh that it could bee found out to doe the Lord service I was welcomed to this place by those Fryers who were strangers unto mee my head was filled that day by them with relations of strange and many miracles or lies which they told mee of that picture but the heavinesse of my head did mee good in something for it made mee more drowsie at night and apter to take good rest The next day I got into the Rode againe and went to the last Town of these Cuchumatlanes called Chautlan where I stayed all that day and night and sent before a letter to the Prior of Sacapula of my going thither the next day In Chautlan I was very kindly used by the Indi●…s and liked the Towne the better for the excellent grapes which there I found not planted like vineyards but growing up in harbours which shew that if that land were planted it would certainly yeeld as good grapes for wine as any are in Spain They are carried from that place to Guatemala which stands from it neer forty leagues and are sold about the streets for rarities and great dainties and well may they for from Mexico to Guatemala there are none like them The next morning I made haste to be gone that I might come sooner to Sacapula where I was to finde those of mine owne profession with whom I knew I might stay and rest a whole weeke if I pleased I had not rid above three leagues when I began to discover at a low and deep bottome a pleasant and goodly valley laced with a River whose waters receiving the glorious brightnesse of P●…aebus beames reverberated up to the top of the Mountaine a delightsome prospect to the beholders the more I hasted to that seeming Paradise the more did the twinkling and wanton streame invite mee downe the hill which I had no sooner descended but I found in an harbour by the water side the Prior of Sacapula himselfe with a good traine of Indians waiting for mee with a cup of Chocolatte At the first sight I was a little daunted to behold the Prior who looked most fearfully with a bladder from his throat swelled almost round his necke which hung over his shoulders and breast and stayed up his chin and lifted up his head so that hee could scarce looke any whither but up to heaven In our discourse he told mee that disease had beene upon him at least ten yeers and that the water of that River had caused it in him and in many others of that Town This made mee now as much out of love with the River as above the hill I had liked the goodly sight of it and therefore resolved not to stay so long in that place as I had thought lest the waters should marke me for all my life as they had done this Prior whose name was Fryer Iohn De la Cruz a Biscaine borne and like some of that Nation a little troubled with the simples but a good hearted man humble and well beloved over all the Country both by Spaniards and Indians When I came to the Towne I discovered many men and women with bladders in their throats like the poore Prior which made mee almost unwilling to drink there any Chotolatte made with that water or eat any thing dressed with it untill the Prior did much incourage mee and told mee that it did not hurt all but onely some and those who did drink it cold wherewith I resolved to stay there foure or five daies because of the old Priors importunity who would faine have had mee continue to live with him promising to teach mee the Indian language in a very short time But higher matters calling mee to Guatemala I excused my selfe and continued there five dayes with much recreation The Town though it be not in the generall very rich yet there are some Indian Merchants who trade about the country and especially to Suchutepeques where is the chief store of Cacao and thereby some of this Towne of Sacapula have inriched themselves the rest of the people trade in pots and pans which they make of an earth there fit for that purpose But the principall Merchandize of this place is salt which they gather in the morning from the ground that lyeth neere the River The aire
and other fruits some fowles and some Turkeys The Frier that sate by me I perceived was overjoyed with this for he knew I was to be gone and would leave unto him all those offerings I desired him to make answer unto the Indians in my behalfe excusing me as not well versed in their language yet the fooles if they thought and judged me to be a Saint might have expected from me also the gift of tongues which he did telling them that I hadbeen but a while in that Country and though I understood part of their language yet could not speake nor pronounce it perfectly and therefore from me he did give them hearty thankes for the great love they had shewed unto an Ambassadour of God witnessing it with so many sorts of offerings which assuredly should remind him and mee of our offerings for them in our praiers and hearty recommendations of them and their children unto God Thus was that ceremony ended the Indians dismissed and the Frier and I went up to a chamber where he began to tell his egs and fowles and to dispose of some of them for our supper he told me he would take them but at my departure would give me somewhat for them he bad me keep what money they had given me and told me I was welcome unto him and no burdensome guesse but very profitable who had brought with me store of provision for my selfe and for him many daies after The money I received cane to fourty Rials besides twenty which he gave me for the other offerings which might be worth fourty more all this I got for having a fall from a Mule and for not breaking my necke I would faine have departed the next morning but Iohn Vidall so was the Frier named would not permit me for that the next journey was of at least 20 leagues and therefore he would have me rest my selfe the next day This Towne of Zojabah or Sacualpa is the biggest and fairest of all the Towns that belong unto the Priory of Sacapula the Indians are rich and make of their Cotton-wool many mantles they have plenty of hony and great flocks of goats and kids but here nor in all the Townes behind there is no wheat save only Indian Maiz. The next day some small offerings fell unto mee but nothing like the day before and so I told the Frier that now the peoples devotion was decaied I would bee gone in the morning before day That night the chiefe Indians of the Towne came to offer their service and attendance upon me to a Rancho or lodge that standeth in the middle way but I would not accept of the great ones but desired that I might have three onely of the meaner sort to guide mee till I met with company from the Towne whither I was going and whither I had sent warning of my comming The time appointed was three of the clock in the morning at which houre after a little sleep I was called and having drunke my Chocolatte and eat a maple bread with a little conserve I prepared my selfe for my journey and found the Indians ready waiting for me in the yard with pieces of pine-wood which burn like torches and with which they use to travell in the night and to shew the way to him whom they guide A little from the Towne wee had some craggy wayes which indeed had need of lights but afterwards we came into a plaine champaigne Countrey which continued till within a league of the middle way lodge to the which we were to descend a steep hill When we came thither which was about seven in the morning we found our fresh supply waiting for us who had set out from their Towne at midnight to meet us note the Indians subjection to their Preists command and had made us a fire and warmed water for our Chocolatte Which whilst I was drinking the Indians of Zojabah who had guided me thither gave notice to those that came to receive from St. Martin so was the Towne called whither I was that day minded of my miracle and sanctity wishing them to reverence and respect me in the way But not for this their foolish report did I make the Indians of Zoiabah drinke every one a cup of Chocolatte and so dismissed them and took forwards my journey to St. Martin Most of the way was hilly and craggy till we came within two miles of the Towne to the which we arrived by noone This Towne is cold standing high yet pleasant for the prospect almost to Guatemala here and in most of the Towns about it is most excellent wheat The hony of this Towne is the best in the Countrey but above all it furnisheth Guatemala with Quailes Partridges and Rabbits It is the first Towne wee enter into belonging to the City and command of Guatemala which did not a little comfort me that now I wanted but one good journey to make an end of my long tedious and wea●…isome travelling The Frier of this Towne named Thomas de la Cruz belonged unto the Dominican Cloister of Guatemala he was a Criolian but yet he entertained me very lovingly I staied with him but that night And in the morning though I might have gone to dinner to Guatemala I would needs goe by the way to one of the biggest Townes in that Countrey called Chimaltenango standing in an open valley three leagues from the City consisting of a thousand house-keepers and rich Indians who trade much about the Countrey In this Towne in my time there was one Indian who alone had bestowed upon the Church five thousand duckates The Church yeelds to none in the City of Guatemala and in musick it exceeds ●…ost about the Country The chief feast of Chimaltenango is upon the 26. day of Iuly which they call St. Annes day and then is the richest faire that ever my eyes beheld in those parts of all sorts of Merchants and Merchandize It is further set forth with Bull-baiting Horce-racing Stage-playes Maskes dances Musick and all this gallantly performed by the Indians of the Town The Fryer of this Town was a Dominican belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of Guatemala named Alonso Hidalgo a foure eyed old man for hee alwaies wore spectacles Hee was a Spaniard borne but having beene brought up in that Country from his youth and having taken his habit and vowes in Guatemala amongst the Criolians hee degenerated from his birth and Country-men hating all such as came from Spain Hee was deadly enemy to the Provinciall ayming indeed himselfe to bee Provinciall with the favour of the Criolians and so I perceived hee would have picked a quarrell with mee whilst I was with him hee told mee I was welcome though hee had little reason to bid any welcome that had come from Spain who hee thought came but to supplant those that had been born and brought up there in their own Country and that for ought hee knew I learning the language of those Indians might one day
dispossesse him of that Towne wherein hee had continued above ten yeers hee envied much against the Provinciall and Fryer Iohn Baptist the Prior of Guatemala whom hee knew to b●…e my friend But to all this I answered not a word respecting his grave and old age and Crystall spectacles At last he told mee that hee had heard say that the Indians of Zojabah had cried mee up for a Saint which hee could not beleeve of any that came from Spain much lesse of mee that came from England a countrey of hereticks but hee feared rather that I might come as a spie to view the riches of that their Country and betray them hereafter to England and that in Guatemala there were many rich pieces especially a picture of our Lady and a lampe in the Cloister of the Dominicans which he doubted not but I would bee carefull to pry into But all this I put up with a jest saying that I would bee sure to take notice first of the riches of his chamber in pictu●…es hangings and rich Cabinets and that if the English came thither in my time I would surely conduct them to it and if hee himselfe would but cause a set of teeth of silver to bee set in his gums and jawes in stead of those leaden ones for hee was so old that hee had lost all his teeh and had got some of lead in their stead then surely I would also conduct the English to him as to a rich prize for his teeth and that I would warrant him hee should bee well used for his outward and inward riches and that this my counsell might bee profitable and of consequence to him I told him for if the English should come certainly they would try of what metall his teeth were made thinking that they might bee of some rare and exquisite substance found onely in that Country and so might cause him to drink such hot and scalding broth to try whether they were lead as might melt them in his mouth and make the melted lead runne downe his throat which if they were of silver they would not doe Hee perceived I jeared him and so hee let mee alone I was glad I had put him out of his former byas of rayling so dinner being ended I told him I would not stay supper but goe to Guatemala to a light supper in the Cloister for that hee had given mee such a dinner as I feared I should not have digested it in few daies I desired him to let me have Indians to guide me to Guatemala which he willingly performed peradventure fearing that if I stayed supper with him I should melt the teeth in his mouth with some scalding cup of my Chocolatte brought from Chiapa or that in the night I should rifle or plunder his chamber of his rich Idols and Ebony Cabinets The Indians being come I made hast to be gone from that four eyed beast being now desirous of a constant rest in Guatemala Within a league from this Town of Chimaltenango the Rode way leaving that open wide and spatious valley contracts and gathereth in it selfe between hils and mountaines standing on each side and so continueth to the City From this Valley unto Guatemala neither is there any ascent or descent but a plaine broad and sandy way The eye hath much to view though compassed with Mountaines in these two last leagues for yet it may behold a Town of Indians which taketh up most of the way and is counted as big as Chimaltenango if not bigger the houses lying scattered with a distance one from another mingled with many fair buildings of Spaniard●… who resort much thither from the City for their recreation This Town is called Xocotenango of a fruit named Xocotte which is most plentifull there and all about the Country it is fresh and cooling of a yellow colour when ripe and of two sorts some sweet and others sowre of the stones whereof the Indians make a fire they lie so thick in the way dropping from the trees for want of gathering and spending them all that the Spaniards have begun to practise the buying of Hogs on purpose to let them runne about that high way finding that they fat as speedily and as well with those plummes as our Hogs doe in England with Akorns All this way are also many faire gardens which supply the Markets of Guatemala with herbs roots fruits and flowers all the yeer There are further in this Rode three water mills for the corn of the City whereof the chief and the richest belongs to the Dominican Fryers of Guatemala who keep there a Fryer constantly with three or foure Blackmores to doe and oversee the worke What will not those Fryers doe to satisfie their covetous mindes Even dusty Millars they will become to get wealth The Frontispice of the Church of this Town is judged one of the best pieces of worke thereabouts the high Altar within is also rich and stately being all daubed with gold I made no stay in this place because I knew I should have many occasions after my setling in the City to come unto it And thus keeping between the hils I continued on my journey till I came to Guatemala whose Dominions riches and greatnesse the following chapter shall largely shew CHAP. XVIII Describing the Dominions Government Riches and greatnesse of the City of Guatemala and Country belonging unto it I Had not rid on above a mile from the Church of Xocotenango when the hils and Mountaines seemed to depart one from another leaving a more spatious object for the eye to behold and a wider Valley to wander in The fame of that City from Mexico and Chiapa had raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls Towers Forts or Bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy But when I came neere and least thought of it I found my self in it without entring through walls or gates or passing over any bridge or finding any watch or guard to examine who I was but passing by a new built Church standing neere a place of dunghils where were none but mean houses some thatched and some tyled and asking what Town that was answer was made me that it was the City of Guatemala and that that being called St. Sebastian was the onely Parish Church of the City With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think of some second Chiapa till having continued on a while by houses on my right hand and dunghils on my left I came to 〈◊〉 ●…oader street having houses on each side which seemed to promise a City at hand At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately Cloister which was the place of rest to my wearied body I surrounded it to finde out the back gate and there lighted and enquired for the Prior who bad me very welcome assuring me that for the Provincials sake I should want no incouragement and that hee would doe for mee much more then what the Provinciall had signified unto
and distinguished from the true Church by seven Sacraments generally to all persons which shall have devotion to confesse with him excepting Nuns this Bishop had in that City one of the six Iudges of the Chancery his daughter a Nun called Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz whom he loved dearly and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister whose private conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession and therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions but such as were his most intimate friends and of whom he had great satisfaction alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies and men of age for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns Confessions than in others By which reason he unwisely brought an aspersion upon those Virgins who should live chast by and holily as separated from the world and inclosed and yet it seems by this Bishops opinion that within their inclosed walls sins are committed more grievous then abroad in the wide world and such as may puzzle a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient and that he may and doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him if onely God can pardon and absolve from sinne Oh how is Gods power arrogated and taken yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests from all their sins crimes and excesses excepting such cases as are reserved to his Holinesse and to us by Canon right A wicked rule and Canon a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall that bindes poor wretches in some cases to goe from America to Rome at least eight thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope or else they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne many having not meanes to goe thither nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope who must be bribed to absolve them O how more sweet comfortable and safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the Church grievous within his heart and keeping within himselfe to lift up a broken heart and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy with assured confidence that there only is pardon remission and absolution granted to all such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins crimes and excesses Dated n the City of St. Iames of Guatemala the fourth day of December in the yeer of our Lord 1629. The Bishop of Guatemala By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord Peter Ramirez de Valdes Secretary Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall was I setled in Guatemala to read and preach where although I might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere I continued yet but three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter So what in that time I could observe of that City and of the Countrey round about having had occasions to travaile about it both when I lived in Guatemala and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers in the Countrey Townes I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my Reader This City of Guatemala called by the Spaniards Santiago or St. Iames of Guatemala is seated in a valley which is not above two miles and a halfe broad for the high mountaines doe keep it close in but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide and champaigne Countrey opening it selfe broader a little beyond that Towne which to this day is called la Ciudad Vieja or the old City standing somewhat above three miles from Guatemala Though the mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it and especially on the East-side seem to hang over it yet none of them are hinderers to Travellers who over them have opened waies easi●… for man and beasts though heavily laden with wares of all sorts The way from Mexico if taken by the coast of Socomezco and Suchutepeques comes into the City North-west-ward which is a wide open and sandy rode if it be taken by Chiapa it lieth North east and entreth into the City between the mountaines as before hath been noted West-ward to the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne Countrey But South or South-East the entrance is over high and steepy hils which is the common Rode from Comayagua Nicaragua and the Golfo dulce or sweet Gulfe where the ships come yeerly and unlade all the Commodities which are brought from Spaine for Guatemala This also is the way followed by them who take a journey meer East-ward from this City But the chiefest mountaines which straighten in this City and valley are two called Vulcanes the one being a Vulcan of water and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire termed so by the Spantards though very improperly a Vulcan may be said to containe water it taking its name from the heathenish God Vulcan whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire These two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other on each side of the valley that of water hanging on the South-side almost perpendicularly over the City the other of fire standing lower from it more opposite to the old City That of water is higher then the other and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight being almost all the yeer green and full of Indian Milpa's which are plantations of Indian wheat and in the small and petty Townes which lie some halfe way up it some at the foot of it there are Roses Lillies and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens besides Plantins Apricockes and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits It is called by the Spaniards el Vulcan del agua or the Vulcan of water because on the other side of it from Guatemala it springs with many brookes towards a Towne called Saint Christopher and especially is thought to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water by the Townes called Amatitlan and Petapa But on the side of it towards Guatemala and the valley it yeelds also so many springs of sweet and fresh water as have caused and made a river which runneth along the valley close by the City and is that which drives the water-mills spoken of before in ●…go This river was not known when first the Spaniards conquered that Country but since according to their constant Tradition the City of Guatemala standing higher and neerer to the Vulcan in that place and Town which to this day is called la Ciudad Vieja or the old City there lived in it then about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman called Donna Maria de Castilia who having l●…st her husband in the warres and that same yeer buried also all her children grew so impatient under these her crosses and afflictions that impiously she defied God saying What can God do more unto me now then he hath done he hath
and Mutton for it and the Country Townes about is this Nine daies before Michaelmas every day Proclamation is made about the City for an Obligado or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of money to his Majesty if hee faile as shall bee agreed upon between him and the Court and to the Inhabitants of the City if hee fail in beef hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee should have allowed beef If the Obligado faile in Mutton hee is to allow in Fowle flesh so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was to allow the Mutton and this with consideration of the family what competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day or the dayes that the Obligado shall fail Besides this the Proclamation is made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation So that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come into the Court offering more and more till upon the ninth day and last Proclamation the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that hath offered most unto his Majesty Thus many Butchers are not allowed but one onely Obligado who also is abridged to so many pound for so much mony so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell he may follow an action and the Court against him Thus the Obligado who commonly is a monied man buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City without hee bee himself such a Grazier as hath Cattell enough of his owne Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef yet there never wants from the Valley of Mixco Pinola Petapa and Amatitlan and the Marsh and other places In the Valley forenamed I lived and was well acquainted with one Alonso Capata who had constantly going in the Valley four thousand sheep Guatemala therefore is so well stored with good provision plentifull and heap that it is hard to finde in it a begger for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef for a weeke and with a few Cacao's they may have bread of Indian Maiz if not of Spanish Wheat This City may consist of about five thousand families besides a Suburb of Indians called el Barrio de Sto. Domingo where may bee two hundred families more The best part of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb of Indians and is called also el Barrio Santo de Domingo by reason of the Cloister of Saint Dominick which standeth in it Here are the richest and best shops of the City with the best buildings most of the houses being new and ately Here is also a dayly Tianguez as they call it or petty Market where some Indians all the day sit selling fruits Herbs and Cacao but at the foure in the afternoone this Market is filled for a matter of an houre where the Indian women meet to sell their Country slap which is dainties to the Criolians as Atolle Pinole scalded Plantins butter of the Cacao puddings made of Indian Maiz with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned with much red biting Chile which they call Anacatamales The trading of the City is great for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities of Mexico Guaxaca and Chiapa and Southward of Nicaragua and Costarica By Sea it hath commerce with Peru by two Sea Ports and Havens the one called la Villa de la Trinidad the Village of the Trinity which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues and by another called el Realejo which lyeth five or six and forty leagues from it It hath traffique with Spain by the North Sea from Golfo dulce lying threescore leagues from it It is not so rich as other Cities yet for the quantity of it it yeelds to none There were in my time five besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty thousand Duckats thirty thousand fifty thousand some few a hundred thousand who were judged of equall wealth and generally reported to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats the first was Thomas de Siliezer a Biscain born and Alcalde de Corte the Kings High Justice or chief Officer at Court the second was Antonio Iustiniano a Genovois born and one that bore often Offices in the City and had many Tenements and houses especially a great and rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley of Mexico The third was Pedro de Lira born in Castilia the fourth and fifth Antonio Fernandez and Bartolome Nunnez both Portingals whereof the first in my time departed from Guatemala for some reasons which here I must conceale The other foure I left there the three of them living at that end of the City called Barrio de Santo Domingo or the street of St. Dominick whose houses and presence makes that street excell all the rest of the City and their wealth and trading were enough to denominate Guatemala a very rich City The Government of all the Country about and of all Honduras Soconusco Comayagua Nicaragua Costa Rica Vera Paz Cuchutepeques and Chiapa is subordinate unto the Chancery of Cuatemala for although every Governour over these severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell of Spain yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and execution office then their actions if unjust are weighed judged censured and condemned by the Court residing in the City This Court of Chancery consisteth of a President six Judges one Kings Attourney and two chief Justices of Court The President though hee have not the name and title of Viceroy as they of Mexico and Peru yet his power is as great and absolute as theirs His Pension from the King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer but besides this if he be covetous hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more nay what shee list as was seen in the Count de la Gomera President of that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers who departed in old age from Guatemala to Canaria where was his house and place of birth worth Millions of Duckats After him succeeded Don Iuan de Guzman formerly President of Santo Domingo who losing his Wife and Lady in the way lost also his former spirit and courage betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions contemning wealth and riches governing with love and mildnesse which made the rest of the Judges who were all for lucre soone weary him out of his office continuing in it but five yeers His successor whom I left there when I came away was Don Gonsalo de Paz y Lorencana who was promoted from the Presidency of Panama to that place and came into it with such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any former President Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City which there is much used though
report went he had spent himselfe and given all unto this Nun made this Donna Iuana de Maldonado so rich and stately that at her owne charges shee built for herselfe a new quarter within the Cloister with roomes and galleries and a private garden-walke and kept at worke and to wait on her halfe a dozen Black-more maids but above all she placed her delight in a private Chappel or Closet to pray in being hung with rich hangings and round about it costly lamina's as they call them or pictures painted upon brasse set in blacke Ebony frames with corners of gold some of silver brought to her from Rome her Altar was accordingly decked with Jewels Candlesticks Crownes Lamps and covered with a Canopie embroidered with gold in her Closet she had her small organ and many sorts of musicall instruments whereupon she played sometimes by herselfe sometimes with her best friends of the Nuns and here especially she entertained with musicke her beloved the Bishop Her Chappel or place of devotion was credibly reported about the City to be worth at least six thousand which was enough for a Nun that had vowed chastity poverty and obedience But all this after her decease she was to leave to the Cloister and doubtlesse with this State and riches she would win more and more the hearts of the common sort of Nuns till she had made a strong party which by this may have made her Abbesse Thus is ambition and desire of command and power crept into the walls of Nunneries like the abominations in the wall of Ezekiel and hath possessed the hearts of Nuns which should be humble poore and mortified Virgins But besides this one Nun there are many more and also Friers who are very rich for if the City be rich as is this and great trading in it they will be sure to have a share Great plenty and wealth hath made the inhabitants as proud and vicious as are those of Mexico Here is not onely Idolatry but Fornication and uncleannesse as publike as in any place of the India's The Mulatta's Black-mores Mestica's Indians and all common sort of people are much made on by the greater and richer sort and goe as gallantly apparrelled as doe those of Mexico fearing neither a Vulcan or mountaine of water on the one side which they confesse hath once powred out a flood and river executing Gods wrath against sin there committed neither a a Vulcan of fire or mouth of hell on the other side roaring within and threatning to raine upon them Sodoms ruine and destruction neither the weakness of their habitation lying wide open on every side without walls or workes or bulwarkes to defend them or without guns drakes bullets or any Ammunition to scare away an approaching enemy who may safely come and without resistance upon them who live as professed enemies of Jesus Christ. This is the City of St. Iames or Santiago de Guatemala the head of a vaste and ample Dominion which extendeth it selfe nine hundred miles to Nicoya and Costa Rica South-ward three hundred miles to Chiapa and Zoques North-ward a hundred and fourescore miles to the further parts of Vera Paz and the Golfo dulce East-ward and to the South-sea twenty or thirty in some places fourty miles Westward From Tecoantepeque which is no harbour for any great ships which standeth from Guatemala at least foure hundred miles there is landing place for ships neerer to this City then is the village de la Trinidad or of the Trinity The chiefe commodities which from along that coast are brought to Guatemala are from the Provinces of Soconuzco and Suchutepeques which are extreame hot and subject to thunder and lightning where groweth scarce any remarkeable commodity save only Cacao Achiotte Mechasuc●…il Bainillas and other drugs for Chocolatte except it be some Indigo and Cochinil about St. Antonio which is the chiefe and head Town of all the Suchutepeques But all the coast neer joyning to Guatemala especialliy about a Towne called Izquinta or Izquintepeque twelve leagues from Guatemala is absolutely the richest part of the Dominion of this City for there is made the greatest part of the Indigo which is sent from Honduras to Spaine besides the mighty farmes of Cattel which are all along that marsh Though the living there be profitable and the soile rich yet it is uncomfortable by reason of the great heat thundrings and lightnings especially from May to Michaelmas If Guatemala be strong though not in weapons or Ammunition in people it is strong from hence from a desperate sort of Black-mores who are slaves in those Estancia's and farms of Indigo Though they have no weapons but a Machette which is a short Tuck or lances to run at the wild Cattel yet with these they are so desperate that the City of Guatemala hath often been afraid of them and the Masters of their owne slaves and servants Some of them feare not to encounter a Bull though wild and mad and to graple in the rivers which are many there with Crocodiles or Lagarto's as there they call them till they have overmastered them and brought them out to land from the water This hot but rich Country runnes on by the Sea fide unto the Village of the Trinity which though somewhat dangerous yet is a haven for ships from Panama Peru and Mexico It serves to enrich Mexico but not to strengthen it for it hath neither Fort nor Bulwarke nor Castle nor any Ammunition to defend it selfe Between this Village and the other Haven called Realejo there is a great Creek from the Sea where small vessels doe use to come in for fresh water and Victuals to St. Miguela Towne of Spaniards and Indians from whence those that travaile to Realejo passe over in lesse then a day to a Town of Indians called LaV●…eja two miles from Realejo whither the journey by land from St. Miguel is of at least three daies But neither this Creeke or Arme of the Sea is fortified which might be done with one or two peeces of Ordnance at most placed at the mouth of the seas entrance neither is the Realejo strong with any Ammunition no nor with people for it consists not of above two hundred families and most of them are Indians and Mestico's a people of no courage and very unfit to defend such an open passage to Guatemala and Nicaragua which here begins and continues in small and petty Indian Townes unto Leon and Granada On the N●…th side of Guatemala I shall not need to adde to what hath been said of Suchutepeques a●… ●…zco and my journy that way from Mexico and Chiapa The chiefe side of Guate●… is that on the East which points out the way to the Golfe or Golfo dulce or as other●… all it St. Thomas de Castilia This way is more beaten by Mules and Travellers then that on the North side for that Mexico standeth three hundred leagues from this City and the Golfe but threescore and no such passages
first of Tremesino for presently after Christmas every one begins to bring theis sickles into the field where they doe not onely reap down their Wheat but in stead of threshing it in barnes they cause it to bee trod by Mares inclosed within floores made on purpose in the fields and when the Wheat is trod out of the Eares by the Mares trampling who are whipped round about the floores that they may not stand still but tread it constantly and throughly then the Mares being let out of the floores the wheat is winnowed from the chaffe and put up clean into sackes and from the field carried to the Barnes but the chaffe and most of the straw is left to rot in the fields which they esteem as good as dunging and further set all the fields on fire burning the stubble that is left a little before the time of the first showers of raine which with the ashes left after the burning fatteth the ground and by them is held the best way to husband or dung their ground Others that will sow a new and woody peece of land cause the trees though timber trees to bee cut down and sell not a stick of that wood which there is so plentifull that they judge it would not quit their cost to carry it to Guatemala though in England it would yeeld thousand pounds but they let it lie and dry and before the winter raine begins they set on fire all the field and burn that rich timber with the ashes whereof that ground becomes so fat and fertile that where upon an Aker wee sow here three bushels of Wheat or upwards they sow such ground so thin that they scarce dare venture a full bushell upon an Aker lest with too much spreading upon the ground it grow too thick bee lodged and they loose their crop The like they doe unto the pasture of the Valley about the end of March it is short and withered and dry and they also set it on fire which being burnt causeth a dismall sight and prospect of a black valley but after the first two or three showres it puts on againe its greene and pleasant garment inviting the Cattell Sheep Lambs Goats and Kids which for a while were driven away to other pasturing to return and sport againe to feed and rest in its new flourishing bosome But now it is time I return again back to the other end of this valley to the Rio de las Vacas from whence I have viewed the compasse of it and made my long digression from East to West to the farthest Towne of Amatitlan to shew thee my Reader the little part of thy way remaining unto Guatemala True it is from the Ermitage of our Lady there is a streight way through the middle of the valley leading almost to Amatitlan and then turning up a hill out of the valley on the right hand But that hath many ascents and descents bottomes falls and risings and therefore is not the constant Rode which from the Ermitage pointeth on the right hand observing the Towne of Mixco standing but five miles from Guatemala from Mixco the way lyeth up a hill and leadeth to a Town somewhat bigger then Mixco of Indians called San Lucas or St. Luke a cold Town but exceeding rich the temper and coldnesse of it hath made it the storehouse or Granary for all the City for whereas below in the Valley the Wheat will not keep long without musting and breeding a worm called Gurgejo such is the temper of this Town of St. Luke that in it the Wheat will keep two or three yeeres ready threshed with a little turning now and then and as it lyeth will give and yeeld as experience taught mee there so that he that hath laid up in that Town two hundred bushels of Wheat at the yeers end shall find neer upon two hundred and twenty bushels This Towne therefore receives from the Valley most of the harvest and is full of what wee call Barnes but there are called Trojas without floores but raised up with stackes and bords a foot or two from the ground and covered with mats whereon is laid the Wheat and by some rich Monopolists from the City is kept and hoarded two and three yeers untill they find their best opportunity to bring it out to sale at the rate of their own will and pleasure From hence to Guatemala there is but three little leagues and one onely Barranca or bottome and on every side of the way little petty Townes which they call Milpas consisting of some twenty Cottages In the middle of the way is the top of a hill which discovereth all the City and standeth as overmastring of it as if with a peece or two of Ordnance it would keepe all Guatemala in awe But besides this hill which is the wide and open Rode there stand yet forwarder on the right and left hand other mountaines which draw neerer to the City and what this top peradventure with too much distance is not able to doe or reach the others certainly would reach with Cannon shot and command that farre commanding City Downe this hill the way lies broad and wide and as open as is the way downe Barnet or Higggate Hill and at the bottome it is more straitned betweene the Mountaines for the space of a bowshot which passage also is craggy by reason of stones and some small peeces of rocks which lie in a brook of water that descends from the Mountaines and runs towards the City But at a little Ermitage called St. Iohn the way opens againe it selfe and sheweth Guatemala welcoming the weary travellers with a pleasant prospect and easing theirs or their mules or horses feet what with green walkes what with a sandy and gravelly Rode unto the City which never shut gate against any goer or comer nor forbad their entrance with any fenced walls or watchmens jealous questions but freely and gladly entertaines them either by the back side of the Dominicans Cloister or by the Church and Nunnery called the Conception And thus my Reader and country man I have brought and guided thee from the Golfe unto Guatemala shewing what that way is most remarkable I shall not now shew thee any more of this Cities Dominions toward Nicaragua and the South having already shewed thee the way as far as Realejo leaving that untill I come to tell thee of my journey homewards which I made that way There remaines yet the Country of the Vera Paz and the way unto it to discover and so to close up this Chapter The Vera Paz is so called for that the Indians of that Country hearing how the Spaniards had conquered Guatemala and did conquer the Country round about wheresoever they came yeelded themselves peaceably and without any resistance unto the Government of Spaine This Country formerly had a Bishop to it selfe distinct from Guatemala but now is made one Bishoprick with that It is governed by an Alcalde Maior or high Justice sent
are but poore thatched cottages without any upper roomes but commonly one or two only roomes below in the one they dresse their meat in the middle of it making a compasse for fire with two or three stones without any other chimney to convey the smoak away which spreading it selfe about the the roome filleth the thatch and the rafters so with sur that all the roome seemeth to be a chimney The next unto it is not free from smoak and blacknesse where sometimes are four or five beds according to the family The poorer sort have but one room where they eat dresse their meat and sleep Few there are that set any lockes upon their dores for they fear no robbing nor stealing neither have they in their houses much to lose earthen pots and pans and dishes and cups to drinke their Chocolatte being the chief commodities in their house There is scarce any house which hath not also in the yard a stew wherein they bath themselves with hot water which is their chief physick when they feel themselves distempered Among themselves they are in every Town divided into Tribes which have one chief head to whom all that belong unto that Tribe doe resort in any difficult matters who is bound to aid protect defend counsell and appear for the rest of his Tribe before the officers of justice in any wrong that is like to be done unto them When any is to be married the father of the son that is to take a wife out of another Tribe goeth unto the head of his Tribe to give him warning of his sons marriage with such a maid Then that head meets with the head of the maids Tribe and they conferre about it The businesse commonly is in debate a quarter of a yeer all which time the parents of the youth or man are with gifts to buy the maid they are to be at the charges of all that is spent in eating and drinking when the heads of the two Tribes doe meet with the rest of the kindred of each side who sometimes fit in conference a whole day or most part of a night After many dayes and nights thus spent and a full triall being made of the the one and other sides affection if they chance to disagree about the marriage then is the Tribe and parents of the maid to restore back all that the other side hath spent and given They give no portions with their daughters but when they die their goods and lands are equally divided among their sons If any one want a house to live in or will repair and thatch his house anew notice is given to the heads of the Tribes who warn all the Town to come to help in the work and every one is to bring a bundle of straw and other materials so that in one day with the helpe of many they finish a house without any charges more then of Chocolatte which they minister in great cups as big as will hold above a pint not putting in any costly materials as doe the Spaniards but only a little Anniseed and Chile or Indian pepper or else they halfe fill the cup wich Attolle and powre upon it as much Chocolatte as will fill the cup and colour it In their diet the poorer sort are limited many times to a dish of Frixoles or Turkey beanes either black or white which are there in very great abundance and are kept dry for all the yeer boyled with Chile and if they can have this they hold themselves well satisfied with these beanes they make also dumplins first boyling the bean a little and then mingling it with a masse of Maiz as we do mingle Currants in our cakes and so boile again the frixoles with the dumplin of Maiz masse and so eat it hot or keep it cold but this and all whatsoever else they eat they either eat it with green biting Chile or else they dip it in water and salt wherein is bruised some of that Chile But if their means will not reach to frixoles their ordinary fare and diet is their Tortilla's so they call thin round cakes made of the dow and masse of Maiz which they eat hot from an earthen pan whereon they are soon baked with one turning over the fire and these they eat alone either with Chile and salt and dipping them in water and salt with a little bruised Chile When their Maiz is green and tender they boil some of those whole stalkes or clusters whereon the Maiz groweth with the leaf about and so casting a little salt about it they eat it I have often eate of this and found it as dainty as our young green pease and very nourishing but it much increaseth the blood Also of this green and tender Maiz they make a Furmity boiling the Maiz in some of the milke which they have first taken out of it by bruising it The poorest Indian never wants this diet and is well satisfied as long as his belly is thorowly filled But the poorest that live in such Townes where flesh meat is sold will make a hard shift but that when they come from worke on Saturday night they will buy one halfe Riall or a Riall worth of fresh meat to eat on the Lords day Some will buy a good deal at once and keep it long by dressing it into Tassajo's which are bundles o●… flesh rowled up and tied fast which they doe when for examples sake they have from a leg of beefe sliced off from the bone all the flesh with the knife after the length forme and thinnesse of a line or rope Then they take the flesh and salt it which being sliced and thinly cut soon takes salt and hang it up in their yards like a line from post to post or from tree to tree to the wind for a whole week and then they hang it in the smoak another week and after rowle it up in small bundles which become as hard as a stone and so as they need it they wash it boyl it and eat it This is America's powdered beef which they call Tassajo whereof I have often eaten and the Spaniards eat much of it especially those that trade about the Countrey with Mules nay this Tassajo is a great commodity and hath made many a Spaniard rich who carry a Mule or two loaden with these Tassajo's in small parcels and bundles to those Townes were is no flesh at all sold and there they exchange them for other commodities among the Indians receiving peradventure for one Tassajo or bundle which cost them but the halfe part of a farthing as much Cacao as in other places they sell for a Riall or six pence The richer sort of people will fare better for if there be fish or flesh to bee had they will have it and eat most greedily of it and will not spare their fowls and Turkeys from their own bellies These also will now and then get a wild Dear shooting it with their bows and arrows And
cloathed with a long loose Coat who represent●… St. Peter or Iohn the Baptist who whilst the rest danceth walketh amongst them with a book in his hands as if hee were saying his prayers all the rest of the Dancers are apparelled like Captaines and souldier s with Swords Daggers or Holbards in their hands They dance at the sound of a small drum and pipes sometimes ●…ound sometimes in length forward and have and use many speeches to the Emperour or King and among themselves concerning the apprehending and executing the Saint The King and Queen sit sometimes down to hear their pleading against the Saint and his pleading for himselfe and sometimes they dance with the rest and the end of their dance is to crucifie St. Peter downwards with his head upon a Crosse or behead Iohn the Baptist having in readinesse a painted head in a dish which they present unto the King and Queen for joy whereof they all again dance merrily and so conclude taking down him that acted Peter from the Crosse. The Indians that dance this dance most of them are superstitious for what they do judging as if it 〈◊〉 indeed really acted and performed what onely is by way of dance represented When I lived amongst them it was an ordinary thing for him who in the dance was to act St. Peter or Iohn the Baptist to come first to Confession saying they must bee holy and pure like that Saint whom they represent and must prepare themselves to die So likewise hee that acted Herod or Herodias and some of the Souldiers that in the dance were to speak and to accuse the Saints would afterwards come to confesse of that sinne and desire absolution as from bloodguiltinesse More particular passages of the Indians according to my experience of them I shall in the Chapter following truly relate unto my Reader CHAP. XX. Shewing how and why I departed out of Guatemala to learne the Poconchi language and to live among the Indians and of some particular passages and accidents whilst I lived there HAving read in the University of Guatemala for three years space a whole course of Arts and having begun to read part of Divinity the more I studied and grew in knowledge and the more I controverted by way of Arguments some Truths and points of Religion the more I found the spirit of Truth inlightening me and discovering unto me the lies errors falsities and superstitions of the Church of Rome My conscience was much perplexed and wavering and I desirous of some good and full ●…atisfaction Which I knew might not bee had there and that to professe and continue in any opinion contrary to the Doctrine of Rome would bring mee to the Inquisition that Rack of tender Consciences and from thence to no lesse then burning alive in case I would not recant of what the true Spirit had inspired into mee The point of Transubstantiation of Purgatory of the Popes power and authority of the merit of mans workes of his free will to choose all soul-saving wayes the sacrifice of the Masse the hallowing the Sacrament of the Lords Supper unto the Lay people the Preists power to absolve from sinne the worshipping of Saints though with 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as they call it and not with 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the Virgin Mary with a higher degree of worship then that of the Saints which they call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the strange lies and blasphemies which they call miracles recorded in the Legend and lives of their Saints the infallibility of the Pope and councell in defining for truth and point of Faith what in it selfe is false and erroneous these points especially with many more of Romes policies and the lewd lives of the Preists Fryers Nuns and those in authority did much trouble and perplex my conscience which I knew would bee better satisfied if I could returne againe to my owne Countrey of England where I knew many things were held contrary to the Church of Rome but what particulars they were I could not tell not having been brought up in the Protestant Church and having been sent young over to St. Omers Wherefore I earnestly addressed my selfe to the Provincial and to the President of Guatemala for a licence to come home but neither of them would yeeld unto it because there was a strict order of the King and Councell that no Preist sent by his Majesty to any of the parts of the India's to Preach the Gospell should return againe to Spain till ten yeers were expired Hereupon I seeing my self a prisoner and without hopes for the present of seeing England in many yeers resolved to stay no more in Guatemala but to goe out to learne some Indian tongue and to preach in some of their Townes where I knew more money might bee got to help mee home when the time should come then if I did continue to live in the Cloister of Guatemala Yet in the mean time I thought it not unfit to write to Spain to a friend of mine an English Fryer in San Lucar called Fryer Pablo de Londres to desire him to obtian for mee a License from the Court and from the Generall of the Order at Rome that I might return unto my Country In this season there was in Guatemala Fryer Francisco de Moran the Prior of Coban in the Province of Vera Paz who was informing the President and whole Chancery how necessary it was that some Spaniards should bee ayding and assisting him for the discovery of a way from that Country unto Iucatan and for the suppressing of such barbarous people and Heathens as stopped his passage and did often invade some Indian Towns of Christians This Moran being my speciall friend and having been brought up in Spaine in the Cloister of San Pablo de Valladolid where my selfe was first entred Frier was very desirous of my company along with him for the better bringing into Christianity those Heathens and Idolaters telling me that doubtlesse in a new Countrey new treasure and great riches was like to be found whereof no small share and portion should befall him and me for our pains and adventure I was not hard to be perswaded being above all desirous to convert to Christianity a people that had never heard of Christ and so purposed to forsake that honour which I had in the Universitie for to make Christ knowne unto that Heathenish people The Provinciall was glad to see this my courage and so with some gifts and mony in my purse sent me with Moran to the Vera Paz in the company of 50. Spaniards who were appointed by the President to aid and assist us When we came to Coban we were well refreshed and provided for a hard and dangerous enterprize From Coban we marched to two great Townes of Christians called St. Peter and St. Iohn where were added unto us a hundred Indians for our further assistance From these Towns two daies journey we could travail on Mules safely among Christians
them whom he knew if they wronged all the Spaniards in the country would rise up against them and not leave one alive They answered that they would entertaine him and any few Indians well and willingly all which Moran and they performed according to their agreement the next yeer following Thus we returned that day backe the same way that we had come and I began to find my self better and my feaver to leave me We carried with us some of those young children which we had taken to present them unto the President of Guatemala And in Coban the Prior Moran thought he might first do God good service if he christened those youg children saying that they might become Saints and that afterwards their prayers might prevaile with God for the conversion of their parents and of all that country to Christianity I could not but oppose this his ignorance which seemed much like unto 〈◊〉 of the Friers who entred America with Cortez and increased after the conquest daily more in number who boasted to the Emperour that they had some of them made above thirty thousand Indians Christians by bapti●…ing them which truely they did as sheep are forced to the waters and driver to be washed so were those first Indians by thousands sprinkled or if I may use their word baptized for they were driven by compulsion force to the rivers nnither were they first principled in any grounds of belief and Christianity neither themselves bel●…vers nor children of beleeving and faithfull parents So would Moran christen these children though I told him that they ought not to partake of that sacrament and Ordinance of Christ unlesse they were grounded in articles of Christianity and beleeved or were children of beleeving parents But as he had been brought up in errours whereof that Church of Rome is a wide and spatious nest so he would be obstinate in this point against me and the truth sprinkling with water those children and naming them with names of Christians After this he sent them well apparelled to the resident of Guatemala who commanded them to be kept and brought up in the Cloister of the Dominican Friers I remained after this for a while in Coban and in the Townes about untill such time as the ships came to the Gulfe whither I went with Moran to buy wines oyle iron cloth and such things as the Cloister wanted for the present At which time there being a frigate ready to depart to Truxillo some occasions drawing Moran thither I tooke ship with him We staied not much above a week in that Port which is a weak one as the English and Hollanders taking of it can witnesse but presently we thought of returning back to Guatemala by land through the countrey of Comayagua commonly called Honduras This is a woody and mountainous countrey very bad and inconvenient for Travellers and besides very poore there the commodities are Hides Canna fistula and Zarzaparilla and such want of bread that about Truxillo they make use of what they call Cassave which is a dry root that being eaten dry doth choak and therefore is soaked in broth water wine or Chocolatte that so it may go down Within the Countrey and especially about the City of Comayagua which is a Bishops seat though a small place of some five hundred inhabitants at the most there is more store of Maiz by reason of some Indians which are gathered to Townes few and small I found this Countrey one of the poorest in all America The chief place in it for health and good living is the valley which is called Gracias a Dios there are some rich farms of Cattle and Wheat but because it lieth as neer to the Countrey of Guatemala as to Comayagua and on this side the waies are better then on that therefore more of that Wheat is transported to Guatemala and to the Townes about it then to Comayagua or Truxillo From Truxillo to Guatemala there are between fourescore and a hundred leagues which we travelled by land not wanting in a barren Countrey neither guides nor provision for the poore Indians thought neither their personall attendance nor any thing that they enjoyed too good for us Thus we came again to Guatemala and were by the Friers joyfully entertained and by the President highly rewarded and by the City called true Apostles because we had ventured our lives for the discovery of Heathens and opened a way for their conversion and found out the chief place of their residence and sent before us those children to the City who witnessed with being in the Cloister our pains and indeavours Moran was so puffed up with the Presidents favour and the popular applause that he resolved in Guatemala to venture again his life and according to that message which he had sent before to the Heathen Indians to enter amongst them in a peaceable way with halfe a dozen Indians He would fain have had me gone with him but I considered the hardnesse of the journey which I thought I should not be able to perform on foot and also I feared that the Barbarians might mutiny against us for those children which we had brought and lasty I liked not the Countrey which seemed poore and not for my purpose to get meanes sufficient to bring me home to England which was the chiefest thought and desire of my heart for the satisfaction of my conscience which I found still unquiet Wherefore I resolved to forsake the company of my friend Moran and to desist from new discoveries of Heathens and such difficult undertakings which might endanger my health and life and at last bring no profit but only a little vain glory fame and credit in that Countrey I thought I might better employ my time if I learned some Indian tongue neerer to Guatemala where I considered the riches of the Townes the readinesse of the Indians and their willingnesse to further their Preists wants and lastly their ignorance in some points of Religion which I thought I might help and clear with some sound doctrin and with preaching Christ crucified unto them and bringing them unto that rock of eternall blisse and salvation I trusted in my friends so much that I knew it would not be hard for me to take my choice of any place about Guatemala from whence I might facilitate my returne to England and write to Spain and have every yeer an answer easier then any where else I opened my mind unto the Provinciall who was then at Guatemala and he presently and willingly condescended to my request and counselled me to learn the Poconchi language whereof I had already got some grounds in the Vera Paz which is most used about Guatemala and also is much practised in Vera Paz and in the Countrey of San Salvador He promised to send me to the Town of Petapa to learne there the language with a speciall friend of his named Frier Peter Molina who was very old and wanted the help and company of some younger person to
have charge given them not to receive me into their ships If I should goe backe to Mexico and Vera Cruz then I called to mind how I was troubled in that long journey when I came first to Chiapa in company of friends and that now alone I should certainly be much put to it for I would carry Miguel Dalva so far by land with me Wherefore rejecting these three wayes I chose the fourth which was by Nicaragua and the Lake of Granada and therefore I deferred my journey till the week after Christmas knowing that the time of the frigats setting out from that lake to the Havana was commonly after the middle of Ianuary or at Candlemas at the furthest whither I hoped to reach in very good time Now that I might by no means be suspected to have taken this way before I went I left by the hand of Miguel Dalva a letter to a friend of his to be delivered to the Provinciall in Guatemala foure dayes after my departure wherein I kindly tooke my leave of him desiring him not to blame me nor to seeke after me and whereas I had a sufficient Licence from Rome and could not get his that I thought I might with a safe Conscience goe where I was born leaving Linguists enough to supply my place amongst the Indians And because he should not make enquiry after me by Nicaragua I dated and subscribed my letter to him from the Towne of St. Antonio Su●…epeques which was the way to Mexico and quite contrary to Nicaragua The next day after Twelfth day being the seventh of Ianuary 1637. at midnight I set out of Petapa upon a lusty Mule which afterwards in the way I sold for fourscore peeces of eight with Miguel Dalva alone and the first part of the way being very hilly we could not goe so fast as our hearts would have posted for it was breake of day before we could get to the top of the mountaine which is called Serra Redondo or the round hill which is much mentioned in that Countrey for the good pasture there which serveth for the Cattell and Sheep when the valleys below are burnt and no grasing left for Beasts This hill is also a great refuge to Travellers for there they find good entertainment in a Venta where wine and provision is sold and is a great Lodge for to lay up dry what carriages they bring there is besides one of the best Estancia's or farmes of Cattell in the Countrey whereof Goats and Ewes milke is made the best 〈◊〉 thereabouts This round hill or mountaine is fi●…e leagues from Petapa where I feared I might 〈◊〉 with some people of Petapa and therefore the day now dawning I made haste by it leaving in the lodge asleep many Indians who attended on two Spanish Requa's of Mules which that day were to goe to Petapa foure leagues further from this Serro Redondo is a Towne of Indians called Los ●…selavos or the Slaves not that now they ar●… more slaves then the rest of the Indians but because in the old time of M●… the Emperour and the Indian Kings that were under him the people of this Towne were more slaves then any other for from Amatitlan which is so called from Amat which in the Mexican tongue signifieth Letter and Itlan which signifieth Towne for that it was the Towne of Letters as some say for a rine of a tree whereon they were wont formerly to write and expresse their minds or because it was the place whither from all parts letters were sent to be carried about the Countrey and to Peru these Indians of the Towne of Esclavo's or slaves were commanded as slaves to goe all about the Countrey with letters or whatsoever else they should be charged with and they were bound constantly to send every week so many of their Towne as were appointed unto Amatitlan there to wait and attend the pleasure of that Towne for the conveying of letters or any carriages to other parts This Towne of los Esclavos standeth in a bottome by a river over the which the Spaniards have built a very strong stone Bridge to goe in and out of the Town for otherwise with mules there is no passing by reason of the violent and rapid streame of the water and many rocks in the River from which the water falleth down with great force From this Town where wee onely stayed to drink a cup of Chocolatte and to bait our mules wee went on that day to Aguachapa being ten leagues further and not farre from the South Sea and the port called De la Trinidad whither wee came towards Evening having that day and part of the night travelled about threescore English miles up hils and upon stony wayes from the Esclavo's unto this Town which is much mentioned in that Country for two things The one is for the earthen ware which is made there as some think exceeding that of Mixco The other is for a place within a mile and a halfe from the Town which the Spaniards doe credibly report and beleeve to be a mouth of hell For out of it there is constantly ascending a thick black smoak smelling of Brimstone with some flashes now and then of fire the earth from whence this smoak ariseth is not high but low None ever durst draw nigh to find out the truth and ground of it for those that have attempted to doe it have been stricken down to the ground and like to lose their lives A friend of mine a Fryer whom I thought verily I might beleeve upon his oath affirmed unto me that travelling that way with a Provinciall hee resolved to goe unto the place and satisfie himselfe of the ground and cause of the strange talke which was every where about the Country concerning that smoke He went within a quarter of a mile of it and presently hee said he heard a hideous noise which together with the stench of the fiery smoke and brimstone struck him into such a fear that he was like to fall to the ground and retiring himself back with all speed was taken with a burning Feaver which was like to cost him his life Others report that drawing neer unto it they have heard great cries as it were of men and women in torment noise of iron of chaines and the like which how simply I leave it to my Judicious Reader maketh them beleeve that it is a mouth of hell Of my knowledge I will say no more but that I saw the smoke and asked the Indians what was the cause of it and if ever they had been neer unto it And they answered mee that they could not imagine what might bee the cause of it neither durst they draw nigh unto it and that they had seen Travellers attempting to goe neere it and that they were all stricken either to the ground or with some suddaine amazement or Feaver I told them that I would walke thither my self and they desired mee that I would not if I loved my life It
or English ships abroad at Sea waiting as it was supposed for some good prize out of that great and rich Fleet. This news made mee beginne to feare and to thinke of securing my selfe in one of the best and strongest Galeons but when I came to treat of my passage in one of them I found that I could not bee carryed in any under three hundred Crownes which was more then my purse was able to afford With this I thought to addresse my self to some Master of a Merchants ship though I knew I could not bee so safe and secure in any of them as in a Galeon well manned and fortified with Souldiers and Guns of Brasse yet I hoped in God who is a strong refuge to them that feare him and in this occasion provided for mee a cheap and sure passage For meeting one day with my friend the Treasurer hee againe pitying me as a stranger and lately robbed commended me to the Master of a Merchant Ship called St. Sebastian whom hee knew was desirous to carry a Chaplaine with him at his own Table I no sooner addressed my selfe unto him using the name and favour of his and my friend the Treasurer but presently I found him willing to accept of my company promising to carry me for nothing and to board mee at his own Table onely for my prayers to God for him and his offer●… further to give mee some satisfaction for whatsoever Sermons I should preach in his Ship I blessed God acknowledging in this also his Providence who in all occasions furthered my returne to England The Ships being laden wee set forth towards Carthagena and the second day of our sayling wee discovered foure Ships which made the Merchant Ships afraid and to keepe close to the Galeons trusting to their strength more then their own The Ship I was in was swift and nimble under sail and kept still under the wings either of the Admirall or of some other of the best Galeons but all the other Merchants Ships were not so but some slowly came on behind whereof two were carryed away by the Hollanders in the night before ever wee could get to Carthagena The greatest feare that I perceived possessed the Spaniards in this Voyage was about the Island of Providence called by them Sta Catalina or St. Catharine from whence they feared lest some English Ships should come out against them with great strength They cursed the English in it and called the Island the den of theeves and Pirates wishing that their King of Spain would take some course with it or else that it would prove very prejudiciall to the Spaniards lying neer the mouth of the Desaguadero and so endangering the Frigats of Granada and standing between Portobel and Carthagena and so threatning the Galeons and their Kings yeerely and mighty treasure Thus with bitter invectives against the English and the Is●…nd of Providence we sayled on to Carthagena where againe wee met with the foure ●…ps which before had followed us and had taken away two of our Ships and now at our entering into that Port threatned to carry away more of our company which they might have done i●… they would have ventured to have come upon the Ship wherein I went which at the turning about the land point to get into the Haven ran upon the shore which if it had been rocky as it was sandy and gravelly had certainly there beene cast away by keeping too neere unto the land from which danger by the care of the Mariners and their active paines we were safely delivered as also from the ships which followed us as far as they durst for fear of the Cannon shot of the Castle and thus we entered into the Haven of Carthagena and stayed there for the space of eight or ten dayes where I met with some of my Country men their Prisoners who had been taken at Sea by the Spaniards and belonged unto the Island of Providence among whom was the Renowned Captaine Rouse and about a dozen more with whom I was glad to meet but durst not shew them too much countenance for feare of being suspected yet I soon got the good will of some of them who being destined to Spain were very desirous to goe in the ship wherein I went which desire of theirs I furthered and was suiter unto my Captaine to carry foure of them in his ship which for my sake he willingly yeelded unto amongst these was one Edward Layfield who afterwards setting out of St. Lucar for England was taken Captive by the Turkes and since from Turkey writ into England unto mee to helpe to release him with whom both at Carthagena and in the way in the ship I had great discourse concerning points of Religion and by him came to know some things professed in England which my conscience whilst I lived in America much inclined unto I was much taken with his company and found him very officious unto mee whose kindnesse I requited by speaking for him in the ship to the Masters and Mariners who otherwise were ready and forward to abuse him and the rest of the English company as prisoners and slaves At Carthagena wee heard a report of threescore saile of ships of Hollanders waiting for the Galeons which struck no little feare into the Spaniards who called a councell whether our Fleet should winter there or goe on to Spain It proved to be but a fa●… report of the Inhabitants of Carthagena who for their own ends and lucre would willingly have had the ships and Galeons to have stayed there but Don 〈◊〉 de Ybarra replyed that hee feared not a hundred saile of Hollanders and therefore would goe on to Spain hoping to carry thither safely the Kings treasure Which hee performed and in eight dayes arrived at Havand where we stayed eight dayes longer expecting the Fleet from Uera Cruz. In which time I viewed wel that strong Castle manned with the twelve Guns called the twelve Apostles which would do●… little hurt to an Army by land o●… marching from the River of 〈◊〉 I visited here the mother or that Mulatto who had taken away all my 〈◊〉 at Sea and spent much time in comforting my poore Country men the prisoners but especially that gallant Captaine Rouse who came unto mee to complaine of some 〈◊〉 which had been offered unto him by Spaniards in the ship wherein he came which hee not being able to put up though a Prisoner unto them desired to question in the field challenging his proud contemners to meet him if they durst in any place of the Havana a brave courage in a dejected and imprisoned English man to challenge a Spaniard in his Country a Cock upon his own dunghill which as soone as I understood by Edward Layfield I desired to take up fearing that many would fall upon him cowardly and mince him small in peices I sent for him to the Cloister where I lay and there had conference with him prevailing so far as that I made
and water p. 90. sequ Two mysterious games of Tables played between the Superiour of the Dominican Friers of Chiapa and the Author and his Company p. 94 95. Our stately entertainment in a Towne colled St. Philip neer Chiapa p. 95 96. Our imprisonment in the Cloister of Chiapa and three daies penance with bread and water p. 96. A Friers penance in Chiapa for a Love letter to a Nun. p. 97. The Author made Schoole-master in Chiapa ibid. CHAP. XV. Describing the Countrey of Chiapa with the chiefest Townes and Commodities belonging to it p. 98. Contents Some foolish questions moved to the Author by a great Don of Chiap●… 〈◊〉 his answer to them accordingly p. 99. sequ One thousand and six hundred Duck ates got by a Bishop of Chiapa in one moneth onely for Confirmation of little children in Indian Townes p. 102. A Bishop of Chiapa poisoned by women with a cup of Chocolatte for forbidding Chacolatte to be drunke in the Church p. 103. The Author his answer to a token sent to him by a gentlewoman of Chiapa p. 104. The great Dexterity of the Indians of Chiapa in shewes and publike feasts ibid. The River of Tabasco very commodious for any Nation to enterup towards Chiapa p. 105. CHAP. XVI Concerning two daily and common Drinkes or Potions much used in the India's called Chocolatte and Atolle p. 106. Contents The Nature of the Cacao and the tree it groweth it upon and the two sorts of it p. 106 107. Cinnamon one of the best ingredients in the Chocolatte and why p. 108. Achiotte how it groweth and for what it is good ibid. Severall waies to drinke the Chocolatte p. 109. CHAP. VII Shewing my Iourney from the City of Chiapa unto Guatemala and the chi●… places in the way p. 111. Contents Six thousand Duckates sent by a Fryer to Spain to buy a Bishopricke p. 112. A rich treasure and picture of Mary in a poor and small Town of the Indians called Chiantla among the mountaines named Cuchumatlanes p. 113. The water of the river of a Towne called Scapula causeth great swellings in the throat p. 114. The Authour his dangerous f●…ll from the mountaine of Zojabah and his great deliverance attributed to a miracle by the Indians with the con●…eit the Indians had of his sanctity and holinesse p. 115. The Indians guide the Friers in the night when they travail with lights of ●…ood p. 116. The great Fair of Chimaltenango p. 117. The Author abused and suspected to be a spie by an old frier in Chimaltenango ibid. Stones of a fruit or plumme called Xocotte fit for fiering and also good to fat hogs 117 118. CHAP. VIII Describing the Dominions Government Riches and gr●… of the City of G●…temala and Country belonging to it p. 118. Contents Guatemala a●… open City without any walls forts or Bulwarkes about it p. 118. The Author welcomed to Guatemala and first graced with a publick Act of Divinity and after made Master of Arts in the same City p. 118 119. The forme of the Letters Patents as are used there and sent to the Authour to read Arts in the University of Guatemala ibid. The manner of presenting the Author to the Bishop for obtaining his Licence to preach publikely p. 120. 121. The forme of the Bishops Licence to preach and heare Confessions within his Bishopricke in Spanish and English with some glosses upon it p. 121 122. Donna Maria de Castilia swallowed up by a river which suddainly gushed out of a mountaine neer to Guatemala for blaspheming and defying God p. 124. The horrour of the Vulcan of fire ueer Guatemala ibid. Thirteen pound and a halfe of Biefe sold about Guatemala for three pence p. 125. One man onely enjoying 40000. head of Cattell and one onely that bought 6000. neer Guatemala ibid. How Guatemala and the Townes about are stored with provision of Biefe and Mutton and by whom ibid. Foure exceeding rich Merchants in Guatemala besides many other of great but inferiour wealth to them p. 126. The Covetousnesse of a President of Guatemala shewed in Carding and gaming ibid. Thirty thousand Duckats yeerly the rent of one Cloister in Guatemala besides the treasure in it worth a hundred thousand Crownes p. 127. A thousand persons commonly living within one Cloister of Nuns in Guatemala ibid. The Bishop of Guatemala his Nun very powerfull and rich p. 128. The strength of the Blackmore slaves about the Countrey of Guatemala p. 129. All the power of Guatemala is not able to reduce a few Blackmore slaves who are fled to the mountains about Golfo Dulce p. 130. Between the Towne of Acacabastlan and Guatemala are Mines of Copper and iron and probably a treasure of Gold p. 131. A rich Miser worth six hundred thousand Duckates living like abeast in the valley of Mixco p. 132. A kind of wheat in the valley of Mixco called Tremesino which after three moneths so●…ne is harvested in p. 135. A Towne called St. Lucas where wheat threshed is laid up in Barnes and 〈◊〉 peth two or three yeers with much increase ibid. A Towne of twelve thousand Indian inhabit●… not yet conquered lying between Jucatan and Vera Paz. p. 136. CHAP. XIX Shewing the Condition quality fashion and behaviour of the Indians of the Countrey of Guatemala since the Conquest and especially of their feasts and 〈◊〉 p. 138. Contents The Indians of the Countrey of Guatemala like the Israelites by Pharaoh much oppressed by the Spaniards because they multiply and increase p. 138. The West-India's easier to be conquered now then in the time that Cortez conquered them p. 139. Some Indians choose rather to die by pining away willingly then to be subject to the Spaniards oppression and cruelty ibid. How the Indians are forced and distributed out by a Spanish Officer to serve the Spaniards weekly p. 140. The manner of the Indians beds as also their manner of cloathing p. 141 142. They are divided into Tribes with a chiefe head over every Tribe p. 142. How they agree upon contracting Marriage one with another ibid. The powdred bief of the Indians commonly called Tassajo p. 143. The Indian Venison or flesh of wild Dear how dressed and eaten ibid. A Hedgehog good meat in the India's ibid. Of an Indian drinke called Chicha p. 144. The Spaniards use much to make the Indians drunke and then picke their pockets 144 145. The Preists that live in the Indian Townes are above the Iustices and Officers for peace and whip and give sentence and judgement in the Church against the best p. 146. The Service and Attendants allowed to the Preist p. 147. How and what tribute the Indians pay yeerly p. 148. The Saints and Idols of the Romish Religion differ not from the heathenish Idols in the Indians opinion p. 149. Saints held unprofitable by the Preists in the India's and fit to be cast out of the Churches which bring not mony and gifts unto them at least once a yeare ibid. The Preists trade much
hee descended from those Dukes houses in Spain and that his Grand-Father came from thence to Conquer and subdued whole Countries to the Crowne of Spain though now fortune have frowned upon him and covered his ragges with a thredbare Cloake When Mexico was rebuilt and Judges Aldermen Attorneys Towne Clerks Notaries Skavengers and Serjeants with all other Officers necessary for the Common-weale of a City were appointed the fame of Cortez and majesty of the City was blowne abroad into farre Provinces by meanes whereof it was soone replenished with Indians againe and with Spaniards from Spain who soone conquered above foure hundred Leagues of Land being all governed by the Princely Seat of Mexico But ●…ince that first rebuilding I may say it is now rebuilt the second time by Spaniards who have consumed most of the Indians so that now I will not dare to say there are a hundred thousand house●… which soone after the Conquest were built up for most of them were of Indians Now the Indians that live there live in the suburb●… of the City and that situation is called Guadalupe In the yeare 1625. when I went to those parts this Suburb●… was judged to containe five thousand Inhabitans But since most of them have beene consumed by the Spaniards hard usage and the worke of the Lake So that now there may not bee above two thousand Inhabitants of mee●…e Indians and a thousand of such as they call there Mestizos who are of a mixt nature of Spaniards and Indians for many poore Spaniards marry with Indian women and others that marry them not but hate their husbands find many trickes to convey away an innocent Uriah to enjoy his Bathsheba The Spaniards daily cousen them of the small plot of ground where their houses stand and of three or foure houses of Indians build up one good and fair house after the Spanish fashion with Gardens and Orchards And so is almost all Mexico new built with very faire and spatious houses with Gardens of recreation Their buildings are with stone and brick very strong but not high by reason of the many Earth-quakes which would indanger their houses if they were above three stories high The streets are very broad in the narrowest of them three Coaches may goe and in the broader six may goe in the breadth of them which makes the City seeme a great deale bigger then it is In my time it was thought to bee of betweene thirty and forty thousand Inhabitants Spaniards who are so proud and rich that half the City was judged to keepe Coaches for it was a most credible report that in Mexico in my time there were above fifteen thousand Coaches It is a by-word that at Mexico there are foure things faire that is to say the women the apparell the horses and the streets But to this I may adde the beauty of some of the Coaches of the gentry which doe exceed in cost the best of the Court of Madrid and other parts of Christendome for there they spare no Silver nor Gold nor pretious stones nor Cloath of Gold nor the best Silkes from China to enrich them And to the gallantry of their horses the pride of some doth adde the cost of bridles and shooes of silver The streets of Christendome must not compare with those in breadth and cleannesse but especially in the riches of the shops which doe adorn them Above all the Goldsmiths shops and workes are to bee admired The Indians and the people of China that have been made Christians and every yeere come thither have perfected the Spaniards in that Trade The Viceroy that went thither the yeere 1625. caused a Popingay to bee made of silver gold and pretious stones with the perfect colours of the Popingays feathers a bird bigger then a pheasant with such exquisite art and perfection to present unto the King of Spain that it was prized to bee worth in riches and workmanship halfe a Million of Duckats There is in the Cloister of the Dominicans a lampe hanging in the Church with three hundred branches wrought in silver to hold so many Candles besides a hundred little lampes for oyle set in it every one being made with severall wormanship so exquisitely that it is valued to be worth four hundred thousand duckats and with such like curious workes are many streets made more rich and beautifull from the shops of Goldsmiths To the by-word touching the beauty of the women I must adde the liberty they enjoy for gaming which is such that the day and night is to short for them to end a Primera when once it is begun nay gaming is so common to them that they invite gentlemen to their houses for no other end To my self it happened that passing along the streets in company with a Fryer that came with me that yeare from Spain a gentlewoman of great birth knowing us to be Chapetons so they call the first yeer those that come from Spain from her window called unto us and after two or three slight questions concerning Spain asked us if wee would come in and play with her a Game at Primera Both men and women are excessive in their apparell using more filkes then stuffes and cloth pretious Stones and Pearles further much this their vaine ostentation a hat-band and rose made of Diamonds in a Gentlemans hat is common and a hat-band of Pearles is ordinary in a Tradesman nay a Blackmore or Tauny young maide and slave will make hard shift but shee will be in fashion with her Neckchaine and Bracelets of Pearls and her Eare-bobs of some considerable Jewels The attire of this baser sort of people of Blackmores and Mulatta●…s which are of a mixt nature of Spaniards and Blackmores is so light and their carriage so enticing that many Spaniards even of the better sort who are too too pron●… to Venery disdaine their Wives for them Their cloathing is a Petticoate of Silk or Cloth with many silver or golden Laces with a very broad double Ribband of some light colour with long silver or golden Tags hanging down before the whole length of their Peticoat to the ground and the like behind their Wa●…coats made like bodies with ●…kirts laced likewise with gold or silver without sleeves and a girdle about their body of great price s●…uck with Pearls and knots of Gold if they bee any 〈◊〉 well esteemed of their sleeves are broad and open at the end of Holland or fine 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wrought some with coloured ●…ilkes some with silke and gold some with silk and silver hanging downe almost unto the ground the looks of their heads are covered with some wrought quoi●…e over it another of net work of silk bound with a fair silk or silver or golden ribband which crosseth the upper part of their forehead and hath commonly worked out in letters some light and foolish love posie their bare black and tauny breasts are covered with bobs hanging from their chaines of pearls And when they goe abroad they