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A07623 Certeine matters concerning the realme of Scotland, composed together The genealogie of all the kings of Scotland, their liues, the yeeres of their coronation, the time of their reigne, the yeere of their death, and maner thereof, with the place of their buriall. The whole nobilitie of Scotland, their surnames, their titles of honour, the names of their chiefe houses, and their mariages. The arch-bishopricks, bishopricks, abbacies, priories, & nunries of Scotland. The knights of Scotland. The forme of the oth of a duke, earle, lord of Parliament, and of a knight. The names of barons, lairds, and chiefe gentlemen in euerie sherifdome. The names of the principall clannes, and surnames of the borderers not landed. The stewartries and baileries of Scotland. The order of the calling of the Table of the Session. The description of whole Scotland, with all the iles, and names thereof. The most rare and woonderfull things in Scotland. As they were anno Domini, 1597.; Certaine matters composed together Monipennie, John. 1603 (1603) STC 18018; ESTC S100061 58,992 94

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this day are very carefull to keepe the ancient frugality of their Predecessors and in that respect they continue in good health for the most part both in minde and body so that few die of sicknesse but all for age The ignorance of delicacie is more profitable to them for preseruation of their health then the Art of medicine and diligence of Mediciners is to others The same their frugality is a great helpe to their beauty and quantity of stature There is small increase of Cornes amōgst them except of Oates and Barley whereof they make both breade and drinke They haue sufficient store of quicke goods Neat Seepe and Goates and thereby great plenty of milke cheese and butter They haue innumerable sea Fowles whereof and of fish for the most part they make their common food There is no venemous beast in Orknay nor none that is euill fauoured to looke vpon They haue little Nagges little worth in appearance but more able mettelled for any turne then men can beleeue There is no kinde of tree no not so much as a sprig in Orknay except Hadder The cause heereof is not so much in the aire and ground as in the sloth of the Inhabitants This may be easily prooued by roots of trees that are taken out of the ground in sundry parts of the I le When Wine comes there in ships forth of strange countries they geedily swallow it till they be drunken They haue an old Cup amongst them which to the effect their drunkenesse may haue the greater authority they say did appertaine to Saint Magnus the first man that brought the Christian Religion into that countrey This Cup exceeds farre the common quantity of other Cups so as it appeares to haue beene kept since the banquet of the Lapithes By it they trie their Bishop first when he comes amongst them Hee that drinkes out the whole cuppe at one draught which is seldome seene is by them extolled to the skies for heereof as from a blyth presage they conceiue with themselues increase in their goods the yeeres following Heereupon we may easily coniecture that the frugalitie whereof I speake proceeded not so much from reason and care to bee frugall as from pouertie and scarcitie And the same necessitie that was Mother of this frugalitie at the beginning kept her daughter long after amongst the ofspring of that I le till such time as the countries lying neere vnto it Luxurie increasing being corrupted the auncient discipline by little and little deformed they likewise gaue themselues to deceitfull pleasures Their traffique also with Pirats was a great spurre to the decaie of their temperancie The Pyrats fearing to frequent the company of them that dwelt in the continent land got fresh water foorth of the Iles made exchaunge with the inhabitants thereof giuing them wines and other sleight marchandise for fresh riuers or taking the same vpon slight prices from the people who being a small number without armes and lying so wide one from another in a tempestuous Sea staying and impeding their incurrence for mutuall defence and finding themselues vnable to withstand those Pyrats considering also their owne securitie ioyned with aduantage and pleasure were contented not altogether against their willes to receiue them at least they opponed not themselues directly vnto them The contagion of maners began not in the simple people but it did both begin and continued in the wealthie men and Priestes For the common sort at this day keepe some remembrance of their accustomed moderation The Orkenay sea is so tempestuous and raging not onely in respect of the violent windes and aspect of the heauens but also in consideration of the contrarious tides running headlong together from the West Ocean that the Vessels comming in anie strayt betwixt two landes can neither by saile nor oare once releeue themselues of raging tides and whirling waues of the Seas If any dare approach the strait they are either violently brought backe into the sea by the rage thereof broken vpon rockes and driuen vpon skares or else by the sworle of the seas sunke in the waues thereof These Straits may be passed at two times of the tyde when the weather is calme either at a deepe neep or at a full sea At these times the great Ocean offended with contentious tides whose force raised huge contrary waues sounds as it were the retreat in such sort that the surges of the seas oft before raging returne againe to their owne camps Writers agree not vpon the number of these Iles of Orkenay Plinius saies there be 40. Iles of them Others thinke there is but 30. or thereabout Paulus Orosius accounting them to be 33. in number iudgeth the neerest the truth Of these there be 13. inhabited the remanent are reserued for nourishing of Cattell There are also some little Ilands amongst them of so narrow bounds that scarcely albeit they were laboured are able to sustaine one or two labourers Others are but either hard crags bare or else crags couered with rotten Mosse The greatest of the Orkenay Ilands is named by many of the ancients Pomona At this day it is called The firme lande for that it is of greater quantitie then any of the rest It is 30. miles of length sufficiently inhabited It hath twelue Countrey parish Churches and one Towne named by the Danes to whose Iurisdiction these Ilands were sometimes subiect Cracomaca but now the name being corrupt it is called in Scottish Kirkwaa In this towne there are two little Towers builded not farre the one from the other one of them appertaines to the King the other to the Bishop Betwixt these two towers stands one Church very magnifique for such a Countrey Betwixt this Church and the towers on either side are sundrie buildings which the Inhabitants name The Kings towne and the Bishops towne The whole Iland runnes out in Promontories or heads betwixt which the sea runnes in and makes sure hauens for ships and harbours for boats In sixe sundrie places of this I le there are Mines of as good Lead and Tynne as is to be found in any part of Britayne This Iland is distant from Caithnes 24. miles or thereabouts deuided from thence by the Pights sea of whose nature we haue already spoken In this sea are diuers Ilands scattered here and there of whom Stroma for the quantitie lying foure myles from Caithnes is one and that not vnfruitfull but because it lies so neere to the continent land of Britaine and that the Earles of Caithnes haue alwaies bene Masters and Lords thereof it is not accounted amongst the Iles of Orknay From this Iland Northward lies South Ranalsay which is distant from Duncan-bey or rather Dunachis-bey sixteene miles and may be sailed with tide although there bee no winde in the space of two houres the course of that Sea is so vehement Ranalsay is fiue miles long and hath a commodious hauen named after Saint Margaret From it somewhat Eastward
the spring thereof is a Loch forth of the which comes the water of Lute running into the West sea By report there was at the mouth of this water a good Towne named Innerluther from the name of the water Surely if we will consider the nature of the people that dwell thereabouts the commodity of sailing and portage by sea this is very proper for an Hauen The ancient Kings allured by these commodities sometime dwelt there in the Castle of Enone which Castle many at this time sinisterly informed suppose to be Dunstaffage for the ruines and signes of Dunstaffage euen to this day may be seene in Lorne There are some small Countries cast in betwixt Buquhan and the Westsea which hauing no notable thing worthy of memory within them we ouerpasse Murray lies betwixt Spey and Naes sometime named as some suppose Verar The Germane sea running betwixt these two waters backeward makes the shire narrow and yet for the quantity it is wealthy in corne and store and is the first country of Scotland for pleasure and commodities of fruitfull trees There are two townes in it Elgin vpon the water of Loxi keeping at this day the ancient name and Innernes vpon the water of Naes Naes comes forth of a Loch 34 miles of length named Loch-naes The water of Naes is almost alwaies warme and at no time so cold that it freezeth yea in the most cold time of winter broken yce falling in it is dissolued by the heat thereof West from Lochnaes there lies eight miles of continent ground and that small peece is the onely impediment that the seas ioine not and make the remanent of Scotland an Iland for all the land that lies betwixt the strait and the Deucalidon sea is cutted by creeks and Loches of salt water running into the land The countrey that lies by North Naes and these straits is commonly diuided in foure Prouinces Nauern or as the common people name it Stranauerne from the water of Narn From the mouth of Naes where it enters into the Germane sea North lies Rosse shooting into the sea in great promontories or heads as the word it selfe expresseth For Rosse in Scottish is called An head The countrey of Rosse is of greater length then breadth extended from the Germaine to the Deucalidon sea where it riseth in craggy and wilde hilles and yet in the plaine fieldes thereof there is as great fertility of Corne as in any other part of Scotland There is in Rosse pleasant dales with waters and Loches full of fishes specially Loch-broome It is broad at the Deucalidon sea and growes narrow by little and little turning South-ward From the other shore the Germane sea winning the selfe an entry betwixt high Clints runnes within the land in a wide bosome and makes an healthfull port and sure refuge against all tempests and stormes The entry of it is easie and within it is a very sure Hauen against all iniuries of sea and a Hauen for great Nauies of ships Next vnto Rosse North-ward is Nauarn so named from the water of Nauarn which the common people following the custome of their countrey speech calleth Stranauerne Rosse-marches with Stranauerne at the South The Deucalidon sea at the West and North runnes about it and at the East it ioines with Caithnes Sotherland is so cast in amongst these countries that it is neighbour to them all and marches with euery one of them at some part At the West it hath Stranauerne at the East Rosse and at the North Caithnes lying ouer against it The Countrey people in respect of the nature of the ground are more giuen to store then to Corne. There is no singular thing in it that I know except the hilles of white Marble a rare woonder in cold countries and seruing for no purpose because that ouer-great delicacie the curious caruer of such things is not entered in that country Caithnes where it marches with Stranauerne is the furthest North countrey of all Scotland And those two Countries draw the breadth of Scotland into a narrow front In them are three promontories or heads the highest whereof is in Nauernia named by Ptolomie Orcas or Taruidum The other two not altogether so hie are in Caithnes Veruedrum now named Hoya and Berubrum vntruely by Boetius called Dume now commonly called Dunnesbey or by some Duncans-bey Of this word as appeareth some letters taken away the word Dunsbey is come At the foot of the hill there is a prety creeke which they that trauell from Orknay by sea vse for an hauen Creeke is commonly called a Bay This Creeke then being named by such as dwelt thereabout Duncans-bey or Dunnachis-bey the common people ioyning both the words in one haue in their fashion made the word Dunsbey In this Country Ptolomie places Carnauij of which names there remaine yet some signes for the Earle of Caithnes chiefe Castle is named Gernigo It appeares that the people named by Ptolomie Cornauij were called by the Britaynes Kernici for indeed not onely in this Countrey but also in the furthest place of this I le that is in Cornewales he places the people named Cornauij and they that speake the Britayne tong call the same people Kernici It may be that he should not iudge amisse that should esteeme Cornewales to be spoken for Kernice-wales taking that name from the Frenchmen called Kernici It appeareth likewise that some signes of this name although obscure remained in the middest of the I le For Beda writes that the beginning of Seuerus wall was not far from the Abbay of Kebercurnike but in these places now there is no appearance of any Abbay Yet there is in that part a Castle of Dowglasses ruinous and halfe decaied named Abircorne Whether one of these words or both be corruptly driuen for Kernici I leaue the Reader to iudge Of the Iles of Scotland ingenerall NOw resteth it to speake somewhat of the Iles the part of all the Brittaine History inuolued in greatest errours We will leaue the most ancient writers of whom we haue no certaintie and follow that which men of our owne time more truely and clearely haue written They diuide all the Iles which as it were crowne Scotland in three classes or ranks the West Iles Orkenay Iles and Shetland Iles. They call them West that lie in the Deucalidon sea from Ireland almost to Orknay vpon the West side of Scotland They that either in our Fathers daies or ours haue written any thing of Brittayne call these Iles Hebrides a new name indeede whereof they bring neither ground nor euidence from the ancient writers Some writers haue placed Aebudae Aemode or Acmode in that part of that Sea But so diuersly that they scarcely agree either in the number the situation or names Strabo to begin at him as most auncient perchance may be pardoned for that in his time that part of the world was not sufficiently explored and he therefore hath
growes the delectable Lambre called Succinum Where is also great resort of the beast called the Mertrik the skins whereof are costly furrings In Rosse there be great Mountaines of Marble and Alabaster In the South of Scotland specially in the Countries adiacent to England there is a Dog of maruellous nature called the Suth-hound because when as he is certified by wordes of Arte spoken by his Master what goods are stolne whether Horse sheepe or Neat immediatly he addresseth him suthly to the sent and followeth with great impetuositie through all kind of ground and water by as many ambages as the theeues haue vsed till he attaine to their place of residence By the benefit of the which Dogge the goods are recouered But now of late he is called by a new popular name the Slouth-hound Because when as the people doe liue in slouth and idlenesse and neither by themselues or by the office of a good Herd or by the strength of a good house they doe preserue their goods from the incursion of theeues and robbers then haue they recourse to the Dogge for reparation of their slouth In the West and North-west of Scotland there is great repairing of a Fowle called the Erne of a marueilous nature and the people are very curious and solist to catch him whom thereafter they punze off his wings that he shall not be able to flie againe This Fowle is of a huge quantitie and although he be of a rauenous nature like to the kind of Haulks and be of that same qualitie gluttonous neuerthelesse the people doe giue him such sort of meate as they thinke conuenient and such a great quantitie at a time that he liues contented with that portion for the space of fourteene sixteene or twentie daies and some of them for the space of a Moneth The people that doe so feed him doe vse him for this intent That they may be furnished with the feathers of his wings when hee doth cast them for the garnishing of their arrowes either when they are at warres or at hunting for these feathers onely doe neuer receiue raine or water as others doe but remaine alwaies of a durable estate and vncorruptible In all the Moore-land and Mosse-land of Scotland doth resort the blacke Cocke a fowle of a marueilous beautie and marueilous bountie for he is more delectable to eate then a Capon and of a greater quantitie cled with three sorts of flesh of diuers colours and diuers tastes but all delectable to the vse and nouriture of man In the two Riuers of Deé and Done besides the maruellous plentie of Salmon fishes gotten there there is also a marueilous kinde of shel-fish called the Horse-mussell of a great quantitie wherein are ingendred innumerable faire beautifull and delectable Pearles conuenient for the pleasure of man and profitable for the vse of Physicke and some of them so faire and polished that they bee equall to any mirrour of the world And generally by the prouidence of the Almightie God when dearth and scarcitie of victuals doe abound in the land then the fishes are most plentifully taken for support of the people In Galloway the Loch called Loch-myrton although it be common to all fresh water to freeze in Winter yet the one halfe of this Loch doth neuer freeze at any time In the shire of Innernes the Loch called Loch-nes and the riuer flowing from thence into the sea doth neuer freeze But by the contrary in the coldest daies of Winter the Loch and riuer are both seene to smoake and reeke signifying vnto vs that there is a Myne of Brimstone vnder it of a hot qualitie In Carrik are Kyne and Oxen delicious to eate but their fatnes is of a wonderfull temperature that although the fatnes of all other comestable beasts for the ordinarie vse of man doe congeale with the cold aire by the contrarie the fatnesse of these beasts is perpetually liquid like oile The wood and Parke of Commernauld is replenished with Kyne and Oxen and those at all times to this day haue beene wilde and all of them of such a perfect wonderfull whitenesse that there was neuer among all the huge number there so much as the smallest blacke spot found to be vpon one of their skinnes horne or clooue In the Parke of Halyrud-house are Foxes and Hares of a wonderfull whitenesse in great number In Coyle now called Kyle is a rock of the height of twelue foot and as much of bredth called the Deafe Craig For although a man should crie neuer so loud to his fellow from the one side to the other he is not heard although he would make the noise of a gunne In the countrey of Stratherne a little aboue the old towne of the Pights called Abirnethie there is a maruellous Rocke called the Rocke and stone of a reasonable bignes that if a man will push it with the least motion of his finger it wil mooue verie lightly but if he shall addresse his whole force he profites nothing which mooues many people to be wonderfull merry when they consider such contrarietie In Lennox is a great Loch called Loch-lowmond being of length 24. miles in bredth eight miles containing the number of thirtie Iles. In this Loche are obserued three woonderfull things One is fishes very delectable to eate that haue no fynnes to mooue themselues withall as other fishes doe The second tempestuous waues and surges of the water perpetually raging without windes and that in time of greatest calmes in the faire pleasant time of Summer when the aire is quiet The third is One of these Iles that is not corroborate nor vnited to the ground but hath beene perpetually loose and although it be fertill of good grasse and replenished with Neat yet it moues by the waues of the water and is transported sometimes towards one point and otherwhiles toward another In Argyle is a stone found in diuers parts the which laid vnder straw or stubble doth consume them to fire by the great heat that it collects there In Buquhan at the castle of Slains is a caue from the top whereof distilles water which within short time doth congeale to hard stones white in colour In this countrey are no Rottons seene at any time although the land be wonderfull fertill In Lothien within two miles of Edinburgh Southward is a wel-spring called Saint Katherins well which flowes perpetually with a kind of blacke fatnesse aboue the water whereof Dioscorides makes mention This fatnes is called Bitumen aquis supernatans It is thought to proceed of a fat myne of Coale which is frequent in all Lothien and specially of a sort of coale called vulgarly the Parret coale For as soone as it is laid in the fire it is so fat and gummy that it renders an exceeding great light dropping frying hissing and making a great noise with shedding and diuiding it selfe in the fire and of that marueilous nature that as soone as it is laide in a quicke fire immediately it conceiues a great flame which is not common to any other sort of coale This fatnes is of a marueilous vertue That as the coale whereof it proceeds is sudden to conceiue fire and flame so is this oile of a sudden operation to heale al salt scabs and humours that trouble the outward skin of man wheresouer it be frō the middle vp as commonly those of experience haue obserued All scabbes in the head and hands are quickly healed by the benefit of this oile and it renders a marueilous sweet smell At Abirdene is a well of marueilous good qualitie to dissolue the stone to expell sand from the reines and bladder and good for the collicke being drunke in the Moneth of Iuly and a few daies of August little inferiour in vertue to the renowned water of the Spaw in Almanie In the North seas of Scotland are great clogges of timber found in the which are marueilously ingendred a sort of Geese called Clayk-geese and do hang by the beake til they be of perfection ofttimes found and kept in admiration for their rare forme of generation At Dumbartan directly vnder the Castle at the mouth of the riuer of Clyde as it enters into the sea there are a number of Claik-geese blacke of colour which in the night time do gather great quantitie of the crops of the grasse growing vpon the land and carry the same to the sea Then they assemble in a round and with a wondrous curiositie do offer euery one his owne portion to the Sea-floud and there attend vpon the flowing of the tide till the grasse be purified from the fresh taste and turned to the salt and lest any part thereof should escape they labour to hold it in with labour of their nebbes Thereafter orderly euery fowle eates his portion And this custome they obserue perpetually They are verie fatte and verie delicious to bee eaten FINIS The borders in order The causes of their denominations The Townes of Lothian The chiefe townes of Clyddisdaill G●lloway described Carrik described Kyle described Cunninghame described Renfrew described Clyddisdaill Two ancient monuments The countrey people doe call it Arthours ouen A fertill soile Atholl Dunkeld Gowrie Angusse This towne is now called by all men in the Vulgar tongue Downdee Abirdene Abirdene an vniuersity flourishing in all kinde of artes Marre Badzenoch Habre The broadnesse of Scotland Buquhan A strange thing Boyne Enzeé Murray A Loch of a strange nature Rosse the descriptiō thereof Nauarne Sotherland Hilles of white Marble Caithnes The desdiuided The numbers of the Scottish Iles are 300 Iles and aboue The maner of their bankets Their drinke Their attire coloured garments Their maner of lodging Their armour in time of war An ancient Castle Iura Lutea Taxus a tree not vnlike to the Fir-tree but the fruit thereof is venemous Iland like a man Iland of Weauers Buriall places of the Kings of Scotland Kings of Ireland Kings of Norway Horse-Iland Swine-Iland A strange kind of fish A barbarous people Iland of Pigmeis Adams Iland Horse-Ile Whales A happie people A miracle A strange kinde of Fowle haunting in the I le of Suilkeraia A healthfull countrey No venemous beast in Orknay Their Horse S. Magnus Bicker Dangerous seas The ancient and new name of the chiefest Towne in Orkenay Mynes of Lead and Tynne An Iland wherin no kinde of she-beast will liue 24 houres together except Ky Ewes Conies and such beasts as may be eaten
Iohn Armstrang of Thornequhat Wil Armestrāg of Ternsnihill Littils Iohn Littill of Cassoke Thome Littill of Finglen Ingrahames Archy Littill ANANDAIL Irwingis Edward of Bonschaw Lang Richies Edward Iohn the young Duke Chrystie the Cothquhat Willie of Graitnayhill Bellis Will Bell of Alby Iohn Bell of the Tourne Mathie Bell called the King Andro Bell called Lokkis Androw Will Bell Reidcloke Carlilles Adame Carlile of Bridekirk Alexander Carlile of Egleforhame Grahames George Grahame of Reupatrik Arthour Grahame of Blawoldwood Richie Grahame called The Plump Thomsons Young Archie Thomson Sym Thomson in Polloden Romes Roger Rome in Tordoweth Mekle Sandie Rome there Gassis Dauid Gasse in Barch Iohn Gasse Michaels sonne in Rig. THE SHRIEFDOMES AND Shriefs of Scotland Orknay The Shriefe thereof heritable Earle of Caythnes Innernes The Earle of Huntlie Cromartie Vrquhart of Cromartie Narne Iohn Campbell of Lorne Elgene and Forress Dumbar of Cumnok Abirdene The Earle of Huntlie Kincardin The Earle of Marshall Forfar The Lord Gray Perth alias Saint Iohnstone The Earle of Gowry Fyfe The Earle of Rothosse Kynross The Earle of Morton of Lochleuin and Dalkeyth Clackmannan The knight of the Karss Sterling The prouost of the towne for the time Dumbarten Earle of Lennox Sterling-shire extra Burgum The Earle of Mar. Tarbart The Earle of Mar. Laynrik The Earle of Arran Lord Hammilton Renfrew The Lord Sampill Aere Campbell Knight of Lowdon Wigton Patrik Agnew of that ilk Drumfreis Lord Sanquhat Pebles Lord Zester Selkirk-Murray of Fallahill Roxburgh Dowglasse of Cauers called sherife of Tiuidaill Barwik Lord Home Edinburgh The prouost of the Towne for the time Lothien The Earle Bothwell The Cunstabularie of Hadington The Earle Bothwell Lithgow Hammilton of Kenneill THE STEWARTRIES OF SCOTLAND Stratherne Monteith The Lord Dr●mmond Kircudbricht Annandaill The Lord Maxwell THE BAILLERIES OF SCOTLAND Kyle The Knight of Cragy wallace Carik The Earle of Cassils Cunninghame The Earle of Eglinton THE ORDER OF THE CALLING of the Table of the Session Munday Redemptions of lands Reductions of all kinds Transferrings Losse of Superiorities For making sealing and subscribing of Reuersions Tewsday Recent spoiles without the time of vacants Acts of Aiurnall Wednesday The common Table of the foure quarters of the Realme by order euery one after another as is diuided in the acts of the Institution in the print books of Parliament Thursday The same Table Friday The Kings actions strangers the poore Saturday The Lords of Session and members thereof The Prelates payers of contribution and the common Table foresaid And vpon the Wednesday and Thursday to cal common priuileged matters such as Hornings Free-persons Euidents Fortalices Warnings Letters conforme to rolements Decreits Arbitrailes Taks Pensions Ordinarie letters Gifts Registring of contracts Actions to become ciuill or prophane Double poindings Billes Supplications And their last actions to be called of new by ordinance of the Lords of Session for expedition of causes The Shires of Scotland The Shires of the first quarter as followeth that is to say Forfair Kineardin Banff Elgin Forres Narne Innernes and Cromartie The Shires of the second quarter Edinburgh Lynlythgow Selkirk Roxburgh Peblis Berwick and Hadington The third quarter Striuiling and Renfrew Lanerk Wigton Dumfreis Kilcudbright and Annandaill The fourth quarter Perth Clackmannan Argyle and Bute The Senators begin their sitting and rising as followes They begin to sit downe in Edinburgh on the morne after Trinitie Sunday while the first day of August and after to be vacant while the first day of Nouember next ensuing and then to begin and sit while the xix day of March next then to be vacant while the morning after Trinitie Sunday as aforesaid THE NAMES OF THE FREE BVRROWES subiect to pay extent and subsidie within Scotland SOVTH Edinburgh Sterling Lithgow Rothsaye Dumbarten Renfrew Ruglen Aere Irwing Glasgow Kircudbricht Wigtoun Whithorne Laynerik Iedburgh Sel-kirk Peblis NORTH Abirdene Dundie Saint Iohnston aliâs Perth Banffe Dumfermeling Carraill Forfar Brechin Mont-rosse Elgene Innernes Arbrothe Saint Andrewes Cowpar Cullane Fores. The Kings Palaces and Castels Haddington North-Barwick Dumbar Drumfreis Narne Thaine Dysert Kirkady Palaces appertaining to the King THe Palace of Halyrud-house beside Edinburgh in Lothien 2 The Palace of Dalkeyth reserued for the vse of the Prince with the Orchard Gardens Banks and wood adiacent thereunto within foure miles of Edinburgh 3 The Palace of Lithgow within the towne of Lithgow in Lithgow-shire 4 The Palace of Falkland and the towne of Falkland adiacent thereunto with the Parke In Fyfe Castels appertaining to the King Desert The Castell of Roxburgh now demoleist by the Lawe and by the commaundement of the King and three Estates In Teuiotdaill The monuments yet stand to this houre but desert The Castell and fortalice of Dumbar a house of great strength till within these late yeeres it was demoleist by Iames Earle of Murray Regēt of Scotland In Lothien Desert 1 The Castell of Edinburgh inhabited by Iohn Earle of Mar. 2 The Castell and strength of of Blacknes in Lothien inhabited by Sir Iames Sandelands 3 The Castel and strength of Sterling inhabited by Iohn Earle of Mar and his Deputies 4 The Castell of Dumbarton inhabited by Iohn Lord Hammilton 5 The Castell of Lochmaben in Annandaill occupied by the Lord Maxwell 6 The Castell of Kirkwall in Orknay appertaining to the King inhabited by the Earle of Orknay A true description and diuision of the whole countrey of Scotland of the situation distance and commodities in euery part thereof SCotland is diuided from England first by the high hilles of Cheuiot and where the hilles doe end by a wall called The Marchdike made in our time and then by the waters Esk and Seloua By North those borders from the Scots sea to the Ireland sea The Countries lie in order as followeth The Maers wherein stands the Towne of Barwicke at this present possessed by England lies vpon the North side of Tweed which is compassed by the Firth of Forth on the East by England on the South Westward on both the sides of Tweed lies Teuiotdail taking the name from the water of Tiot diuided from England by the hilles of Cheuiot Next vnto Teuiotdail lie Countries that are not great Liddisdail Ewisdail and Esdail taking their names from three waters Liddall Ewis and Esk. The last is Annandail which also hath the name from the water of Annan diuiding the Countrey almost in two and runnes after Solo●● into the Ireland sea Now let vs returne to Forth The Countrey of Lothian is compassed by it at the East Coeburnspeth and Lamermure diuides it from the Maers and then turning somewhat Westward it ioynes with Twedaill and Lawderdaill Tweddaill taking the name from the Riuer of Tweed which runnes through the same and Lawderdhill from the Towne of Lawder or rather from the water of Lider running through the Countrey Liddaill Nithisdaill and Clyddisdaill march with Tweddaill at the South and West parts thereof Nithisdaill taking the name from the
water of Nith running through it into the Ireland Sea Lothian so named from Loth King of Pights is bordered on the South-east by Forth or the Scottish sea on the Northwest by Clyddisdaill This Countrie in ciuilitie and aboundance of all other things necessarie for the vse of man excelles very farre all the rest of the countries of Scotland There runne fiue waters through it Tyne and Esk which both runne in one at the foote of the wood of Dalkeith before they enter into the sea Leith and Almon. Of those waters some spring out of Lamermure and some out of Pentland hils and runne into Forth The Townes of Lothian are Dunbar Hading commonly called Hadington Dalkeith Edinburgh Leigh Linlithgow lieth more westwardly Clyddisdaill lies on both the sides of Clyde which for the length thereof is deuided in three shires In the Ouerward there is an hill not to call hich out of the which spring riuers running into three sundry seas Twede into the Scottish sea Annand into the Ireland sea and Clyde into the great Ocean The chiefe Townes of Cliddisdaill are Lanark and Glasgow North-west from Cliddisdaill lies Kyle beyond Kyle lies Galloway which is diuided from Clyddisdaill by the water of Cloudan All Galloway almost declines to the South the shire whereof incloseth all the rest of that side of Scotland It is more plentifull in store than Cornes The waters of Galloway Vxe Dee Kenne Cree and Losse runne into the Ireland sea There is almost no great hilles in Galloway but it is full of Craggie knolles The waters gathering together in the vallies betwixt those knolles make almost innumerable Loches from whence the first flood that comes before the Autumnall Equinoctiall causeth such aboundance of waters to runne that there come foorth of the said Loches incredible numbers of Eeles and are taken by the Countrimen in wand Creeles who salting them obtaine no small gaine thereby The farthest part of that side is the head called Nonantum vnder the which there is an hauen at the mouth of the water of Lussie named by Ptolome Rerigonius In the other side of Galloway oueragainst this Hauen from Clyddis-forth there enters another Hauen named commonly Lochryen and by Ptolome Vidogora all that lieth betwixt these two Hauens the Countrie people call the Rynns that is the point of Galloway who also call it Nonantum the Mule that is the Beck The whole Country is named Galloway for Gallovid in the ancient Scottish tongue signifies a man of Gallia vnder Lochrien at the backe of Galloway lies Carrik declining easily till it come to Clyddisforth The waters of Stenzear and Greuan deuide Carrik vpon the cruiks of those waters there are many prettie villages Carrik betwixt the waters where it riseth in knolles is firtill of beastiall reasonable good ground for Corne. The whole Country of Carrik both by sea and land hath aboundance not only sufficient for themselues but also largely to support their neighbours The water of Dunes deuides Carrik from Kyle Dune springs out of a Loch of the same name in the middest whereof is an Yle on the which is builded a little Tower Next vnto Carrik lies Kyle marching vpon the South with Galloway vpon the Southeast with Clyddisdaill vpon the West with Cunninghame separated from thence by the water of Irwing The water of Air runnes through the midst of Kyle at the mouth of the water stands the towne of Air a notable market stead The Countrey generally is more aboundant of valiant men then of Corne and cattell the ground being but poore and sandie which sharpens the mens industrie and confirmes the strength of the minde and body by scarcenesse of liuing From Kyle Northward lies Cunninghame renewing Clide and reducing it to the quantity of a reasonable riuer The name of this countrey is Dens signifying in that language the Kings house whereby it appeares that the Danes haue beene sometimes masters thereof Next vnto Cunningham Eastward lies Renfrew so named from a little towne wherein they vse to keepe Session of Iustice to the countrey It is commonly named the Barronie and is diuided in the midst by two waters both called Carth. After the Barronie followeth Clyddisdaill lying on either side of Clyde which in respect of the quantitie thereof and landes of Glasgow is diuided in manie iurisdictions They that dwell vpon the landes of Glasgow haue their owne Iustice seat within the Towne of Glasgow The most notable waters of Clyddisdaill are Eruenne and Douglasse running into Clyde vpon the South side thereof and vpon the North side there is another called Auenne which cuts Lothian from Striueling shire These two waters haue gotten their names of Walter at the beginning instead of proper names as also the water of Auone in Walles hath done with a little difference for the propriety of the language sake Auenne deuides Sterling shire from Lothian at the South The Firth or Forth at the East which peece and peece becomes narrow till it growe to the quantity of a reasonable Riuer neere vnto Striueling bridge There is but one water worthy to make account of that runnes through it named Carron neere vnto the which there are some ancient monuments vpon the East side of Carron There are two little earthen knolles builded as may appeare by men commonly called Duini pacis that is The knolles of peace Two miles downward vpon the same water there is a round building without lyme made of hard stone in such sort that one part of the vppermost stones is indented within the stone that lies directly vnder it so that the whole worke by this coniunction mutuall and burthen of the stones vpholds it selfe growing narrow by little and little from the ground to the head where it is open like a Doue-coat The common sort of people following there owne fantasies haue deuised sundry Authours of this worke and that the same was appointed for sundry vses euery man appropriating an vse according to his owne deuise And I led by coniecture was sometime indeed of opinion that this was the Chappell of the God Terminus which as we read was appointed to be open aboue The two knolles Duini pacis lying so neere it doe somewhat fortifie this my coniecture as that peace had beene concluded there and this worke set vp in the memory thereof and that the same should be the border of the Romane Empire I could not be drawne from this opinion vntill I vnderstood that there are sundry workes in a certaine I le like vnto this Chappell in all things except that they are broader and wider In which respect I am compelled to suspend my iudgement farther than to thinke that these haue beene monuments of things done and especially of victories gotten and set vp in those places as it had beene out of the world the rather to be kept from the iniuries of enimies But truely whether they be monuments of victory or as
name from it is called in the ancient Scottish language Straitherne Straith of olde in that tongue was called a countrey lying along a water side Betwixt the hilles of this countrey and Forth lieth Teth taking the name from the water of Teth running through the middest thereof The hilles called Ochels march with Teth which for the most part as also the ground lying at the foot of them are accounted to be of the Stewardrie of Straitherne The rest of that countrey to Forth through ambition is diuided in sundry Iurisdictions as in Clackmannan-shire Culros-shire and Kinros-shire from which all the countrey that lies betwixt Forth and Tay Eastward like a wedge in a narrow point of the Sea is called by one name Fyfe abundant within the selfe in all things necessarie to the vse of man It is broadest where Lochleuin diuideth it from thence it becommeth narrow vntill it come to the towne of Carraill There is but one water to make account of in all Fyfe named Leuin There are manie prety townes vpon the coast in three sides of Fyfe The towne of Saint Andrewes for the study of good learning The towne of Cowper standeth almost in the middest of Fyfe which is the Sherifes seat for administration of iustice Vpon the march betwixt it and Stratherne standeth Abirnethy of olde the chiefe Citie of the Pights Neere it Erne runneth into Tay. The water of Tay commeth forth of Loch-tay in Broadalbin The Loch is foure twenty miles of length Tay is the greatest riuer in Scotland which turning course at the hilles of Grangebean ioynes with Atholl a fertile countrey situate in the very wildernesse of the same mountaines at the foot whereof there is a part of Atholl lying plaine named the Blair which word signifies a ground proper for wood Vnder Atholl vpon the South side of Tay stands the Towne Caledon which onely retaines the ancient name commonly called Dunkeld that is a knoll full of Nut-trees The Nut-trees growing in that vnmanured ground and couering the earth with the shaddow of the boughs thereof haue giuen the name both to the towne and people Caledones indeed or Caledonij were sometime one of the most renowmed people of Brittaine and made the one halfe of the kingdome of Pights whom Ammianus Marcellinus diuideth into Caledones and Vecturiones of whome at this day scarcely doth remaine any memoriall of Name Twelue miles vnder Dunkeld in the same right side of the riuer of Tay stands Saint Iohnestone vpon the North side of the water Eastward from Atholl lies Gowrie a firtill ground for corne and vnder it againe betwixt Tay and Esk lies Angusse or as the ancient Scots call it Eencia Some men also are of opinion that it was named Horrestia or according to the English Phrase Forrestia In Angusse are the Townes of Cowper and Deidoun the gift of God as Boetius to gratifie his countrey ambiciously names it but I trust the ancient name of the towne was Taidunum from the word Dun called the Taw or Knoll that stands vpon Tai at the foot whereof this towne is builded Fourteene miles North from Tai right by the Sea side standes Abirbrothock ' otherwise named Abrinca from thence yee may perfitly see the Redde head a farre off South-east cuts Angusse euen in the middest and North-east diuides it from the Maernis The Maernis for the most part is a plaine ground till it passe Fordoun and Dunnotter the Earle Marshels Castle and come to the hilles of Grangebean which begin there to decrease and end in the Sea North from the Maernis is the mouth of the water of Deuá or Deé commonly named and about a mile from Deé Northward the mouth of the water of Done At the mouth of Deè standes Abirdene renowmed for the salmond fishings thereof and at the mouth of Doné the Bishops seat and common schooles flourishing in all kinde of science of liberall artes I finde in some olde monuments that the Towne neerest to the South was called Abirdee but now both the one Towne and the other is called Abirdene deuised onely to the words old and new as new Abirdene and old Abirdene At this narrow point lying betwixt these waters the countrey of Mar beginnes growing alwaies wider and wider till it be 60 miles in length come to Badzenoch The countrey of Badzenoch hath as it were a backe running out through the midst of it which spouts forth waters into both the seas Habre marcheth with Badzenoch tending by little and little towards the Deucalidon sea a Countrey as aboundant of commodities both by sea and land as any Countrey within Scotland is First it is good for Corne and store the shaddowes of the Woods the riuers and the springs make it very pleasant and it hath also great plenty of fishes as any Countrey within Scotland for besides the aboundance of fresh water fishes produced by a great number of waters the sea runnes within the countrey in a long Channell and being narrow at the mouth the water kept in betwixt two high bankes and spreading wide inward makes the forme of a stanke or rather of a Loch from which it hath gotten the name Abre by the Countrey men that is in their language A place where ships may lie as sure as in a Hauen The same name is giuen to all the Countrey that lies round about such as speake the English tongue name both the Creeke of the sea and the countrey Lochabre but altogether without reason and indecently These three Countries Habre Badzenoch and Marre comprehend the breadth of Scotland betwixt the two seas Next vnto Marre Northward lies Buquhan deuided from Marre by the water of Dune This Countrey runnes farthest in the Germane Sea of all the Countries of Scotland fertill in store and increase of the ground and in it selfe sufficient to satisfy for all other commodities necessary for the Countrey There is abundance of Salmond fish taken in all the waters thereof except Rattry wherein to this houre was neuer seene any Salmond Vpon the coast of Buquhan there is a caue the nature whereof is not to be forgotten From the crowne of the Caue there drops downe water which water vpon the instant is turned into little round stones If the Caue were not from time to time cleansed by mans labour it would in short space be filled to the head The stone that is ingendered of this water is of nature halfe stone halfe Ice fresh and neuer growing solide as the Marble doth When I was in Tollosse about the yeere of God 1544. I vnderstood by credible men that there was a Caue into the Pireneé mounts neere vnto the place of their habitation like vnto this Caue in all things Boyne and Enzeé lie from Buquhan Northward to Spey which deuides them from Murray Spey springs forth of the North-side of the mountaines of Badzenoch whereof we haue made mention and not farre from
but followed the vncertaine brute Mela reckoneth seuen Aemodae Martianus Capella also many Acmodae Ptolomeus and Solinus fiue Aebudae Plinius seuen Acmodae and thirtie Aebudae We will retaine the name that is most frequent and common amongst the ancients and call all the West Iles Aebudae and shew their situation the nature of euery one of them and commodities therof out of recent authors that haue lately written as most certaine First we will follow Donald Munro a man both godly and diligent who trauelled all these Iles vpon his feet and saw them perfectly with his eies They lie scattered into the Deucalidon sea to the number of 300. and aboue Of olde the Kings of Scotland kept these Iles in their owne possession vntill the time of Donald brother to King Malcome the 3. who gaue them to the king of Norway vpon condition that he should assist him in vsurping of the kingdome of Scotland against law and reason The Danes and Norway people kept possession of them for the space of 160. yeeres and then King Alexander the third ouercomming the Danes and Norway men in a great battell thrust them out of the Iles yet afterward they attempted to recouer their libertie partly trusting to their owne strength and partly mooued by sedidions in the maine land of this Countrey creating Kings of themselues as not long agoe Iohn of the house of Clandonald did vsurpe the name of King as others had done before In food raiment and all things pertaining to their familie they vse the ancient frugalitie of the Scots Their bankets are hunting and fishing They seeth their flesh in the ●ripe or else in the skinne of the beast filling the same full of water Now and then in hunting they straine out the blood and eate the flesh raw Their drinke is the broth of sodden flesh They loue very well the drinke made of whey and kept certaine yeeres drinking the same at feasts It is named by them Blandium The most part of them drinke water Their custome is to make their bread of Oates and Barly which are the onely kinds of graine that grow in those parts Experience with time hath taught them to make it in such sort that it is not vnpleasant to eate They take a little of it in the morning and so passing to the hunting or any other businesse content themselues therewith without any other kinde of meat till euen They delight in marled clothes specially that haue long stripes of sundrie colours They loue chiefly purple and blew Their predecessors vsed short mantles or plaids of diuers colours sundry waies deuided and amongst some the same custome is obserued to this day but for the most part now they are browne most neere to the colour of the Hadder to the effect when they lie amongst the Hadder the bright colour of their plaids shall not bewray them with the which rather coloured then clad they suffer the most cruell tempests that blowe in the open field in such sort that vnder a wrythe of Snow they sleepe sound In their houses also they lie vpon the ground laying betwixt them and it Brakens or Hadder the rootes thereof downe and the tops vp so prettily laid together that they are as soft as feather-beds and much more wholsome for the tops themselues are drie of nature whereby it dries the weake humours restores againe the strength of the sinewes troubled before and that so euidently that they who at euening go to rest sore and wearie rise in the morning whole and able As none of these people care for feather-beds and bedding so take they greatest pleasure in rudenesse and hardnesse If for their owne commoditie or vpon necessitie they trauell to any other Countrey they reiect the feather-beds and bedding of their Hoste They wrap themselues in their owne plaids so taking their rest carefull indeed lest that barbarous delicacie of the maine Land as they tearme it corrupt their naturall and Country hardnesse Their armour wherewith they couer their bodies in time of warre is an Iron Bonnet and an Habbergion side almost euen to their heeles Their weapons against their enemies are bowes and arrowes The arrowes are for the most part hooked with a barble on either side which once entered within the body cannot be drawne forth againe vnlesse the wound be made wider Some of them fight with broad swords and axes In place of a drum they vse a bag-pipe They delight much in musicke but chiefly in Harps and Clairschoes of their owne fashion The strings of the Clairschoes are made of brasse-wire and the strings of the Harps of sinewes which strings they strike either with their nailes growing long or else with an Instrument appointed for that vse They take great pleasure to decke their Harps and Clairschoes with siluer and precious stones and poore ones that cannot attaine heereunto decke them with Christall They sing verses prettily compound containing for the most part praises of valiant men There is not almost any other argument whereof their rimes entreat They speake the auncient French language altered a little THE ILES LYING ABOVT Scotland that speake the ancient language called the VVest Iles are these that follow THe first of them all is the I le of Man vntruely by some men named Mon by the ancients called Dubonia by Paulus Orosius Menenia or rather Maenante and in the old countrey speech Manium Before this time there was a Towne in it named Sodora wherein the Bishop of the Iles had his seat It lies almost midway betwixt Ireland and Cumbir a Countrey of England and Galloway a Countrey of Scotland 24 miles in length and 18 in breadth Next vnto Man is Ailsay into the Firth of Clyde an hard high craig on all sides except at an entrie It is neuer occupied by any man but that at sometimes there come a great number of Boats there to fish keeling There are many Conies and Sea-fowles in it specially of that kinde which wee call Solayne-Geese It hath Carrik vpon the North-east Ireland vpon the North-west almost and Kyntyre vpon the South-east Foure and twentie miles from Ailsay lies Arrane almost direct North 24 miles of length and 16 of breadth All the whole Iland riseth in high and wilde mountaines It is manured onely vpon the sea side Where the ground is lowest the sea runnes in and makes a well large Creeke into it the entries whereof are closed by the Iland Molas the hilles rising on all sides and breaking the rage of the windes in such sort that within is a very sure hauen for shippes and in the waters which are alwaies calme such abundance of fish that if there be more taken than the Countrey people thinke should serue them for a day they cast them in againe into the sea as it were in a stanke Not farre from Arrane lies the little Ile Flada fertill of Conies Farther in it is situate the I le of Bute within the Firth of Clyde