runs a long tract or chaine of hils yeilding plentie of pasture and forrage for sheepe The wool of which next unto that of Lemster and Coteswold is estemed best and in speciall request with Clothiers whereby there groweth to the Inhabitants much gaine and profit The North part is all over greene with meddows pastures and woods the South side lieth wholly in manner bedecked with cornefields enclosed where at each end the sea on the North-side doth so inbosome encroach within it selfe that it maketh almost two Islands and verily so the Islanders call them namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh West and Binbrige Isle Eastward In Bedas daies it was counted to containe a thousand and two hundred Hides now it reckoneth upon 36. townes villages and Castles which for Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction belong to the Bishop of Winchester and for civill government to the County of South-hanton The Inhabitants of this Isle were wont merrily to make their boast that their case was happier than all others because they had neither hooded monks nor cavilling Lawyers nor yet crafty foxes The places of greater name be these Newport the principall mercate towne of the whole Isle called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is The new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole country is divided into East Meden and West Meden an ordering as to their scituation East or West either way Cacres-brooke an old Castle so clepid and clipped short for White garesburg is in the very heart and midst of the Isle taking the name of Whitgar the Saxon of whom more heereafter and of late magnificently reedified by the meanes of the Captaine unto which Castle there belonged very many Knights Fees and above all other places it hath heere the glory for antiquitie Brading another mercate Towne Newton and Yarmouth anciently called Eremue which have their Majors and send Burgesses to the Parliament This Yarmouth and Sharpâ—ore have Castles in them which together with Worsleys fort or Blockehouse so named of a worshipfull familie defend the Sea-shore at the Northwest Just over against it scarcely two miles off standeth Hurst a fortification of South-Hamptonshire scituate upon a little necke of land lying into the Sea Quarre where was founded a Nunnerie in the yeare of our Lord 1131 Gods-Hill in which Iohn Worsley erected a Schoole for the training up of young wits West-Cowe and East-Cowe that is now ruinous both which King Henry the Eighth built at the very entrie of New port and concerning them Leland wrote in this wise Covae fulmineae duae coruscant Haec casum colit ille Solis ortum Vectam quà Neoportus intrat altam Two Cowes full opposite there stand At West and East in all mens sight Then flashen fire from either hand Where Newport entreth Isle of Wight Also on the North-East side Sandham Castle furnished as the rest with great ordnance Neither are there wanting for the defence of this Isle naturall fences For encircled it is with a continuall ridge and raunge as it were of craggy clifts there are under the waters likewise hidden stones and every where there lie against it bankes and rockes perilous for sailers but the most dangerous of all the rest are the Needles so called because they are so sharpe and the Shingles which stand forth against the West angle of the Isle as also the Owers and Mixon that lie before the East Besides these The Brambles which are Shelves and perilous for Sailers in the North-coast Moreover if there be any place that seemeth open and meete for a landing place the same by an old order and custome among them is piled with strong stakes driven and pitched deepe into the ground But verily this Isle is neither with these rockes nor with those fortresses above said so well fenced as with the very Inhabitants themselves who naturally being most warlike bold and adventurous are through the diligence and care of the Captaine of the Isle confirmed so by continuall exercise in strength and militarie discipline that they exactly know before hand what accidents of service soever may happen in warre namely with their peeces to shoot point-blanke and not misse the marke to keepe their rankes to march orderly and in ray to cast their squadrons if need be close into a ring or to display and spred the same at large to take paines to runne and ride to endure both Sunne and dust and fully to performe whatsoever warfarre doth require Of these souldiers thus trained the Isle it selfe is able to bring forth into the field 4000. and at the instant of all assaies appointed there bee three thousand more of most expert and practised servitours out of Hampshire and two thousand beside out of Wilshire to bee ever prest and in readinesse for the defence of the Isle And to the end that all hostile forces whatsoever might bee withstood more speedily and with greater facilitie the whole countrey is divided into eleven parts and every of them hath their severall Centoner as one would say Centurion their Vintons also leaders as it were of twenty their great pieces of Ordnance their Sentinels and warders Who keepe watch and ward at the Beacons standing on the higher grounds their Posts also or runners whom by an old name growne almost out of use they terme still Hoblers who presently give intelligence of all occurrents to the Captaine and Governour of the Isle The first that brought it in subjection to the Romans was Vespatian whiles he served as a private person under Claudius Caesar For thus writeth Suetonius of him Vnder the Emperour Claudius by speciall favour of Narcissus he was sent into Germanie as Lieutenant of a Legion and from thence being remooved into Britaine he fought thirtie battailes with the enemie Two most mightie nations and above twentie townes together with the Isle of Wight lying next to the said Britaine hee subdued under the conduct partly of A. Plautius a Consular Lieutenant and in part of Claudius himselfe For which service he received triumphall ornaments and in short space two sacerdotall dignities c. At this Isle also the navie of Allectus after he had usurped the Imperiall dignitie in Britaine lying in espiall and ambush awaited the Romans comming against him who notwithstanding by the happy meanes of a mist passed by their enemies undescried gat to land and set fire on their owne ships that there might bee no refuge for them to escape unto by flight Lord Cerdic was the first English-Saxon that subdued it and he granted it unto Stuffa and Whitgar who joyntly togither slew well-neare all the British Inhabitants for few there were of them remaining in Whitgaraburge a towne so called of his name and now by contraction shortned into Caresbroke After Wolpher King of the Mercians reduced the Isle of Wight under his obedience and assigned it over to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons together with the province of the Menvari what time as hee became his Godfather and
it with King Henrie the Eighth Somewhat lower hard by Darent standeth Lullingstone where there was sometime a Castle the seat of a family of the same name but now of Sir Percival Hart descended from one of the coheires of the Lord Bray Then Darent giveth name unto Darentford commonly Dartford a great mercat towne well frequented and well watered where King Edward the Third built a Nunnery which King Henry the Eighth converted into a house for himselfe and his successours Heere the rivelet Crey anciently called Crecan intermingleth it selfe with Darent when in his short course hee hath imparted his name to five townelets which hee watereth as Saint Mary Crey Pauls Crey Votes-Crey North Crey and Crey-ford in former ages Crecanford where Hengist the Saxon the eighth yeare after his arrivall joyned battaile with the Brittaines and after he had slaine their captaines brought them under with so great a slaughter that afterwards hee never stood in feare of them but established his kingdome quietly in Kent From the river Darent or Dart unto the mouth of Medway the Thames seeth nothing above him but little townes pleasantly seated which to passe over in silence were no prejudice either of their fame or any thing els Yet amongst them is Swans-combe of which I have heretofore spoken of honorable memorie among the Kentish men for obtaining their the continuance of their ancient franchises afterward it was well knowne by the Montceusies men of great Nobility the owners therof who had there Barony here-about And by it Graves-end so called as Master Lambert is my author as the Gereves-end that is the limit of the Gereve or Reve. A towne as well knowne as any other in England for the usuall passage by water betweene it and London since the Abbat of Grace by the tower of London to which it appertained obtained of King Richard the second that the inhabitants of it and Milton onely should transport passengers from thence to London King Henrie the Eighth when he fortified the sea coast raised two Platformes or Block-houses here and two other opposite on Essex side Beyond Graves-end is Shorn held anciently by Sir Roger Northwood by service to carry with other the kings tennants a white ensigne fortie daies at his owne charges when the King warred in Scotland Somewhat more within the land lieth Cobham the habitation for a long time of the Barons of Cobham of whom Iohn Cobham the last of that name founded a Colledge here and a castle at Cowling who left one onely daughter wife to Sir Iohn de la Pole Knight Shee likewise bare but one daughter though married in her time to many husbands But by Sir Reginald Braibrooke onely had shee issue As for her husband Sir Iohn Old Castle whiles hee endeavoured to bring in innovation in religion was both hanged and burnt Ioane her onely daughter by Sir Reginald Braybrooke was wedded unto Thomas Broke of Somersetshire from whom six Lord Cobhams have lineally descended and flourished in honorable reputation untill our time From Graves-end a little country called Ho lying as a demy Island between rivers Thames and Medway stretcheth it selfe into the East and is for situation but unholsome At the entry hereof is Cowling Castle built by Iohn Lord Cobham in a moorish ground and Cliffe a good bigge towne so called of a cliffe upon which it standeth But whether it bee that Clives at Ho so famous in the tender age and infancie of our English Church by reason of a Synode there holden I dare not as others doe affirme considering that in regard of the site it is a place inconvenient for such an assembly and besides that Clives at Hoo seemeth to have beene within the Kingdome of the Mercians As for the river Medweg now called Medway and in the British tongue unlesse I misse of the truth Vaga whereunto afterward was added Med hath his spring head in the wood Anderida which is termed the Weald that is a Wood-land country and taketh up the South-part of this region farre and wide At first whiles it carrieth but a slender streame it receiveth the Eden by Penshurst the seat anciently as it seemeth by the name of Sir Stephen de Penherst who also was called de Penshester a famous Warden of the Cinque ports but now the house of the Sidneies who derive their race from William de Sidney Chamberlaine to King Henrie the second out of which came Sir Henrie Sidney that renowned Lord deputy of Ireland who of the daughter of Iohn Dudley Duke of Northumberland and Earle of Warwicke begat Philip and Robert This Robert Iames our soveraigne King made right honorable first by the title of Baron Sidney of Penshurst and afterwards of Vicount Lisle But Sir Philip whom I cannot passe over in silence beeing the glorious starre of this familie a lively patterne of vertue and the lovely joy of all the learned sort fighting valerously with the enemy before Zutphen in Gelderland died manfully This is that Sidney whom as Gods will was he should be therefore borne into the world even to shew unto our age a sample of ancient vertues so his good pleasure was before any man looked for it to call for him againe and take him out of the world as beeing more worthy of heaven then earth Thus wee may see Perfect vertue sodainely vanisheth out of sight and the best men continue not long Then the river Medway branching it selfe into five streamlets is joyned with as many stone Bridges and thereof giveth the name of Tunbridge to the towne there situate as the towne of Bridges This about King William Rufus his time Richard sonne of Count Gilbert Grandchild to Godfrey Earle of Ewe Lord of Briony obtained in requitall for Briony in Normandie when there had bin long debate about Briony This Richard as William Gemeticensis writeth in recompence for the same castle received in England the towne of Tunbridge for it And the report goeth that the Lowy of Briony was measured round about with a line and with the same line brought into England hee received so much groūd measured out at Tunbridge Shortly after he built here a faire large castle fenced with the river a deepe ditch and strong walles and albeit it is now ruinous and 〈◊〉 Keepe attired with Ivie yet it manifestly sheweth what it was His posteritie who were Earles of Glocester and surnamed De Clare for that they were Lords of Clare in Suffolke built here a priorie for Chanons of Saint Augustines order founded the parish Church which was impropriated to the Knights of Saint Iohn of Hierusalem and compounded about the tenure of the Mannour for which there had beene long suit to hold it of the Archbishop of Canterburie by Knights fee and to be their high Stewards at their inthronizations From these Clares Earles of Glocester it came by an heire generall to Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester and
beside Grafton which now is reputed an Honor of the Kings but in times past was the seat of the Family de Widdevil out of which came Richard a man highly renowned for his vertue and valour who for that he tooke to wife Iaquet the widow of John Duke of Bedford and daughter to Peter of Luxenburgh Earle of Saint Paul without the Kings licence was by King Henry the Sixth fined at a thousand pounds of our money Yet afterwards he advanced the same Richard to the honorable Title of Baron Widdevil de Rivers With whose daughter Dame Elizabeth King Edward the Fourth secretly contracted marriage and verily hee was the first of all our Kings since the Conquest that married his subject But thereby he drew upon himselfe and his wives kinsfolke a world of troubles as yee may see in our Histories The said Richard Widdevil Lord of Rivers Grafton and de la Mote by king Edward the Fourth now his son in Law was erected these be the very words out of the Charter of his creation to be Earle Rivers by cincture of the sword To have unto him and his heires with the Fee of 20. pounds by the hands of the Sheriffe of Northampton And soone after he was with exceeding great honour ordained High Constable of England I speake out of the kings Patent it selfe To occupy manage and execute that Office either by himselfe or by sufficient Deputies for terme of life receiving yearely two hundred pounds out of the Exchequer with full power and authority to take examinations and to proceede in Causes of and concerning the crime of high Treason or the occasion thereof also to heare examine and in due time to determine the causes and businesses aforesaid with all and singular matters arising from them incident to them or conjoyned therewith even summarily and in any place whatsoever below without noise or formall order of Iudgement onely upon sight of the Truth of the fact and with the Kings hand and power if it shall be thought meete in our behalfe without all appeale Moreover about that time he was made Lord Treasurer of England But he having enjoyed these honours a small while was soone after in the quarrell of the king his sonne in Law aforesaid taken in the battaile at Edgcote and beheaded And albeit in his sonnes this offspring as it were halfe dead tooke an end what time as Anthony Earle Rivers was by Richard the third made shorter by the head Richard also and his other brethren dead without issue yet from the daughters there did spred forth most faire and fruitfull branches For out of them flowred the royall Race and line of England the Marquesses of Dorset the Earles of Essex Earles of Arundel Earles of Worcester Earles of Derby the last Duke of Buckingham and Barons of Stafford Just behinde Grafton lieth Sacy Forrest stored with Deere and fit for game More Eastward the Country all over is besprinkled with Villages and little Townes among which these are of greatest name Blisworth the habitation of the Wakes descended from that honorable race of the Barons of Wake and Estotevile Pateshull which gave name to the most worshipfull family in times past of the Pateshuls Greenes-Norton so named of the Greenes men in the fore-going age right famous for their wealth But it was called in foretime if I be not deceived Norton Dany which those Greenes held by knights service as also a moity of Asheby Mares in this County by service To lift up their right hand toward the King upon Christmas-day every yeare wheresoever the King shall bee in England Also Wardon an Hundred which had Lords descended from Sir Guy of Reinbudcourt a Norman whose inheritance came by the Folliots to Guiscard Leddet whose Daughter Christian bare unto her husband Henry de Braibrooke many children yet Guiscard the eldest of them tooke to him the sirname of Leddet from his mother But shortly after those faire lands and possessions were by the females parted betweene William and Iohn both Latimers of Corby From Iohn the Griphins in this Shire and from William those Latimers Barons of good antiquity in York-shire deduced their Descent Higher into the Country Northward is the head of the River Aufona for Avon in the British tongue is a generall name of all Rivers which the people dwelling thereby call Nen and from the West side of the Shire holdeth on his course with many reaches of his bankes after a sort through the middle part of this Shire and all the way along it doth comfortable service A notable River I assure you and if I have any sight into these matters fortified in times past with garisons by the Romans For when as that part of Britain on this side the River was now in Claudius the Emperors time brought subject to the Romane government so as the Inhabitants thereof were called Socij Romanorum that is the Romans consorts or associates and the Britans dwelling beyond the river oftentimes invaded this their country and with great violence made incursions and spoiled much when as also that the Associates themselves who could better endure the Romans commands than brooke their vices other whiles conspired with those on the further side of the River P. Ostorius as saith Tacitus cinctos castris Antonaem Aufonas I would reade if I might be so bold Sabrinam cohibere parat that is if I understand the place a right Hee by placing Forts and Garisons hard by the Rivers Antonae or Aufona rather and Severn determined to restraine and keepe in those Britans on the further side and these that were Provincials and associates from conjoyning their forces together and helping one another against the Romans Now what River this ANTONA should be no man is able to tell Lipsius the very Phoebus of our age hath either driven away this mist or else verily a cloud hath dimmed mine eye-sight He pointeth with his finger to Northampton and I am of opinion that this word Antona is closely crept into Tacitus in stead of Aufona on which Northampton standeth For the very navill heart and middle of England is counted to be nere unto it where out of one hill spring three great Rivers running divers wayes Cherwell into the South Leame Westward which as it maketh speed to Severn is straight wayes received by a second Aufon and this Aufona or Nen Eastward Of which these two Aufons so crosse England overthwart that whosoever comes out of the North parts of the Island must of necessity passe over one of these twaine When Ostorius therefore had fortified Severne and these two Aufons he had no cause to feare any danger out of Wales or the North parts to befall unto his people either Romans or associates who at that time had reduced the nerest and next part of the Island onely into the forme of a Province as else where Tacitus himselfe witnesseth Some of these Forts of Ostorius his making may those great fortifications and
which name is derived not à vergendo that is of bending towards as some are of opinion but of Mor-weridh for this name the Britans gave it or else of Farigi by which name the Irish men call it the most famous Iland HIBERNIA that is to say IRELAND encloseth the West side of Britain an Iland which in times past challenged the third place amongst all the Isles of the then knowne world For thus as touching Ilands writeth the ancient Geographer 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Of all Ilands for greatnesse the Indian TAPROBANE is prime and principall next after it BRITAINE and in a third degree another British Iland named HIBERNIA that is Ireland and thereupon Ptolomee called it LITTLE BRITAIN This Isle by Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian is named IERNA by Iuvenal Mela JUVERNA by Diodorus Siculus IRIS by Martian of Heraclea JOYEPNIA by Eustathius OYERNIA and BERNIA by the native inhabitants Erin by the Britans Yuerdon and of English men Ireland Whence these names have had their originall sundry and divers opinions have beene conceived from time to time as in a doubtfull matter Some derive Hibernia from Hiberno tempore that is from the Winter season others from Hiberus a Spaniard and some againe from the river Iberus the author of the booke entituled Eulogium from Duke Irnalph Postellus a fancifull man when he read Pomponius Mela publikely in Paris because hee would seeme to have a reach beyond other men fetcheth the originall thereof from the Hebrewes so that Irin should bee as much as Iurin that is the Jewes land The Iewes forsooth saith he being most wise Sages and learned Philosophers knowing by their learning that the Empire of the world should be setled in the strongest Angle which lieth West seized upon those parts and Ireland with the first The Syrians also and Tyrians to lay the foundation of their future Empire endevoured all they could to inhabite those Regions Pardon me I pray you if I dare not subscribe hereto no nor give my consent to that opinion most received as touching the Winter season aforesaid although I have read that in this Iland the aire upon every winde is cold and winterlike As for Hibernia Iuverna and Ouernia they came doubtlesse from IERNA spoken of by Orpheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Yuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the tearme that the inhabitants use From this Erin therefore a word proper unto the nation the originall must be deduced Here I with those great Philosophers 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is hold off and suspend my judgement neither know I what to divine and ground my conjecture upon unlesse peradventure that name may come from Hiere an Irish word which with them signifieth the West or a Western coast whence Erin may seeme to bee derived as one would say a Western countrey Of this opinion have I been a good while since induced thereto with my owne conceit and flattering conjecture both because it lieth furthest Westward of any region in all Europe as being no more than twelve degrees distant from the utmost West point as also for that the river running in the most remote West part of this Iland is in Ptolomee called IERNUS like as the Promontorie or Cape bearing out farthest West in Spaine from whence our Irish-men came is named by Strabo IERNE and as the next river unto it which also is most West of all the rivers in Spaine is called by Mela IERNA Moreover by reason of the Western situation Spaine is named Hesperia and that West Cape in Africk Hesperium cornu yea and even in Germanie these countries Westrich Westphalen c. have their denomination from that position and site so that it is no marvaile if Ireland were tearmed Erin of the Western situation Besides these names of Ireland which I have spoken of the Irish Bards or Poets have usually taken up in their ballads these tearmes Tirvolas Totidanan and Banno as the most ancient names of this Iland but upon what reason I wot not unlesse Banno were that Bannomanna which Plinie mentioneth out of Timaeus whiles his pen coasteth along the outmost sides and skirts of Europe and the shore of the Northren Ocean on the left hand from Scythia even as farre as Cadis in Spaine For what countrey that same Bannomanna should bee the Geographers have not yet found out But Biaun in Irish signifieth Sacred or Holy and verily Festus Avâ—enus calleth Ireland SACRAM INSULAM that is The holy Iland in that little booke intituled ORAE MARITIMAE that is The Sea coasts which he compiled out of most ancient Geographers namely Hecataeus of Miletum Hellanicus of Lesbos Philaeus of Athens Caryandaeus Pausymachus of Samos Damastus Euctemon and others But I will write downe his verses for when he had spoken of the Ilands Ostrymides thus he versifieth Ast hinc duobus in SACRAM sic insulam Dixêre prisci solibus cursus rati est Haec inter undas multum cespitem jacit Eamque latè gens Hibernorum colit Propinqua rursus insula Albionum patet But to the SACRED Isle for so They us'd to call it long agoe From hence a course who so desires Just two dayes sailing it requires Much turfe it casts the waves among And Irish dwell therein along Now very neere to it againe The Albions Isle is kenned plaine If that OGYGIA which Plutarch placed on the West side of our Britaine were not 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 not a vaine dreame but a matter in truth hee may seeme by that name plainly to point at Ireland although the reports that he so sadly telleth of it be meer poeticall fictions Milesian toies Neither can any man readily tell why they called it Ogygia unlesse haply of the antiquitie For the Grecians tearmed nothing by the name of Ogygia but that which was very ancient And Robert Constantine seemeth to have shot wide all the world over when he affirmeth that CERNE mentioned in Lycophron was our Ireland for Lycophron himselfe and Tzetzes that commenteth upon him doe place Cerne toward the sunne rising and all the best learned men thinke it to be Madagascar situated as it were in another world right under the Tropique of Capricorne right over against Aethiopia Thus much touching the names of Ireland yet so as we remember withall to take this by the way that in these later times it was called also SCOTIA that is Scotland by Isidor and Bede of the Scots who inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselves came into Britaine But of this we have spoken alreadie once before and therefore have no cause to repeat here This Iland is stretched out from South to North not broader than it is long as Strabo hath recorded but shaped in forme of a lentile or an egge nor of twentie dayes sailing as Philemon in Ptolomee hath set it downe but according to
the French Gallies gave the attempt to invade it but with the losse of many of his men had the foile and desisted from his enterprise As touching the Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction they were under the Bishop of Constance in Normandy untill that hee in our remembrance refused to abjure the Popes authority in England as our Bishops doe Since which time they were by Queene Elizabeth severed from the Diocesse of Constance and united for ever to the Diocesse of Winchester so as the Bishop of Winchester and his successours execute every thing appertaining to the Episcopall jurisdiction yet their Ecclesiasticall discipline is conformable to the Church of Geneva which the French Ministers have brought in As for the civill customes of these Ilands I could now note some of them out of the Kings records namely How King Iohn instituted twelve Coroners sworn to keepe the pleas and rights belonging to the Crowne and granted for the security of the Ilanders that the Bailiffe henceforth by advice of the Coroners might plead without writ of a new disseisin made within the yeere of the death of any ancestours and predecessours within a yeere of dowry likewise within a yeere c. Moreover that the said Iuries may not delay their judgements beyond the tearme of one yeere likewise that in Customes and other things they should be dealt withall as naturall inborn inhabitants and not as strangers or forrainers But these points I think good to leave unto others who may search more curiously into particulars Generally the customes of Normandy take place here in most cases Touching Serke a little Iland that lieth betweene these above named walled about as it were with mighty steepe rockes in which I. de S. Owen of Iarsey whose antiquity of descent some avouch I know not upon what credit and authority from before Saint Owens time by commission from Queene Elizabeth and for his owne commodity as the report goeth made a plantation whereas before time it lay desolate As touching Iethow which for the use of the Governour of Garnsey serveth in steed of a parke to feed cattell to keepe Deere conies and phesants as also touching Arme which being larger than the other was first a solitary place for Regular Chanons and after for the Franciscan Friers seeing they are not mentioned by the old writers I have no reason to speake much of them After these upon the same coast LIGA whereof Antonine maketh mention shooteth up his head which retaineth the name still and is now called Ligon Then lye there spread and scattered seven Ilands termed by Antonine SIADAE of the number for Saith in the British tongue betokeneth seven which the Frenchmen at this day terme Le set Isles And I suppose these Siades to be corruptly called Hiadatae by Strabo for from these as hee saith it is not a daies sailing into the Iland of Britaine From these SIADAE to BARSA whereof Antonine also hath made mention there is the distance of seven furlongs The Frenchmen call it the Isle de Bas and the English Basepole For the Britans tearme that Bas which is shallow and the Mariners by sounding finde the sea in this place to bee more ebbe and shallow as which lieth not above seven or eight fathomes deepe whereas along all the shore beside the sea carrieth 12.18 and twenty fathoms of water as we may see in their Hydrographicall cards Howbeit betweene these Ilands and Foy in Cornwall this our British sea as Mariners have observed is of a mighty depth which they measure to be in the channell fifty eight fathoms deepe or thereabout From hence I will now cut over to the coasts of our owne Britaine and keeping along the shore as I passe by Ideston Moushole and Longships which be rather infamous and dangerous rocks than Ilands at the very utmost point of Cornwall lieth Antonines LISIA now called of them that dwell thereby Lethowsow but of others The Gulfe seene onely at a low water when the tide is returned I take this to be that Lisia which ancient writers doe mention because Lis as I have heard among our Britans in Wales signifieth the same For Lis◠soundeth as much as to make a noise with a great rumbling or roaring such as commonly we heare in Whirlepits and in that place the current or tide of the Ocean striveth amaine with a mighty noise both Northward and Eastward to get out as being restrained and pent in betweene Cornwall and the Ilands which Antonine calleth SIGDELES Sulpitius Severus SILLINAE Solinus SILURES Englishmen Silly the low country Sea-men Sorlings and the ancient Greeke writers tearme HESPERIDES and CASSITERIDES For Dionisius Alexandrinu◠named them Hesperides of their Westerne situation in these verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which Priscian translated thus Sed summam contra Sacram cognomine dicunt Quam caput Europae sunt stanni pondere plenae Hesperides populus tenuit quas fortis Iberi Which may be englished thus Now just beneath that Isle which Sacred High And head of Europe men are wont to call The Ilands nam'd Hesperides do lie And those well stor'd with Tin a rich metall But would ye know the people then note well The glorious wealthy Spaniards therein dwell These also Festus Avienus in his poeme entituled Orae Maritimae that is The sea coasts called Ostrymnides touching which he inserted these verses as they are found in the Paris edition and the notes upon the same In quo insulae sese exerunt Oestrymnides Laxe jacentes metallo divites Stanni at que plumbi multa vis his gentis est Superbus animus efficax solertia Negotiandi cura jugis omnibus Nolusque cumbis turbidum late fretum Et belluosi gurgitem Oceani secant Non hi carinas quippe pinu texere Facere morem non abiete ut usus est Curvant phasello sed rei ad miraculum Navigia junctis semper aptant pellibus Corioque vastum saepe per currunt salum Wherein the Isles Oestrymnides doe spread And shew themselves broad lying all about In metals rich as well of tin as lead The people strong their stomacks high and stout Active and quicke fresh merchants all throughout No troublous waves in Frith or Ocean maine Of monsters full with ships cut they in twaine For why no skill at all have they to frame Of Pine tree keels for barke or gallion Nor know they how to make oares to the same Of fyrre or maple wood where sailes are none As others use But which is wonder one Of stitched hides they all their vessels make And oft through sea in leather voiage take Like vessels unto which were used in this our sea in the yeere of salvation 914. For we read of certaine devout men that in a Carab or carogh made of two tanned hides onely and an halfe sailed out of Ireland into Cornwall Afterwards also of the said Ilands the
farre remote from all memory are over-cast with such mists and darkenesse that the truth seemes rather to bee wished than hoped for yet for all that will I doe my best to trace out the truth and declare as briefly as I can what my judgement is not minding to put downe ought prejudiciall to any man but most willing if any one shall bring more probable matter to welcome and embrace the same For I affect and love the truth not in my selfe more than in another and in whom soever I shall see it I will most willingly and gladly entertaine it First by the Readers good leave I will take this for granted and proved that ancient Nations in the beginning had names of their owne and that afterwards from these the Greeks and Latines by wresting them to the analogie or proportion of their speech imposed names upon regions and countreys to speake more plainely That people were knowne by their names before regions and places and that the said regions had their denominations of the people Who can deny that the names of the Jewes Medes Persians Scythians Almans French or Gauls Betulians Saxons Englishmen Scots c. were before Jewry Media Persia Scythia Alamaine France or Gaule Betulia Saxonie England Scotland c. And who sees not that these words sprang out of the other Of the Samâ—ites Insubres and Belgae we reade that Livie and Caesar first named the countreys themselves Samnitium Insubrium and Belgium Of the Franci in the time of Constantinus Maximus as is to be seene in his coines the place where they were seated took the name of Francia first from the Burgundi Sidonius Appolinaris first framed Burgundie In the same sort we must of necessitie think that this our Island Britaine tooke denomination from the Inhabitants or from the Gaules their neighbours That these first Inhabitants were called Brit or Brith some things induce me to thinke First and formost that verse which goeth about under the name of Sybilla 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Twixt Brits and Gaules their neighbours rich in gold that much abound The roaring Ocean Sea with bloud full filled shall resound Moreover the authoritie of Martial Juvenal and Ausonius Procopius also who nameth this Isle BRITTA In like manner the old Inscriptions set up by the Britaines themselves wherein are read BRITO BRITONES BRITTUS COH BRITTON ORDINIS BRITTON and at Rome in the Church of Saint Mary the round NATIONE BRITTO as also in this which is seene at Amerbachium in Germanie which I will put downe here underneath because it maketh mention of Triputium a place in Britaine not knowne NVMPHISO NO BRITTON TRIPVTIENO SVB CVRA MO VLPI MALCHI 7. LEG XXII PO PO FO The Saxons also themselves called the Britans in their language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Witichindas the Saxon every where namedth the Britans Britae so that the word BRIT is doubtlesse the primitive from whence Brito is derived and from whence the first glympse of light leading to the word Britaine seemeth to appeare Considering now that Nations devised their names of that wherein they either excelled others or were knowne from others whether in regard of their first founders honour as the Iönes of Javan the Israelites of Israël the Chananites of Chanaan the sonne of Cham or whether in respect of their nature conditions and inclinations as the Iberi after the Hebrew Etymologie because they were miners the Heneti for that they were straglers the Nomades because they gave themselves to the breeding and feeding of Cattell the Alemans or Germanes for that they were esteemed valiant men the French or Frankners for beeing free the Pannonians for wearing coats with cloth-sleeves as Dio conceiteth it the Ethiopians of their black hue and the Albanes because they were borne with white haire whereupon marke I pray you as Solinus saith The colour of the haire upon the head gave name unto a people Seeing also that our countrey men who were by a name common to them and their neighbours called Cimbri and Cumeri had no marke whereby they might bee distinguished and knowne from the borderers better than by that manner of theirs to paint their bodies for the most sufficient Authors that be as Caesar Mela Plinie and the rest doe shew that the Britaines coloured themselves with woade called in Latine Glastum and Glass at this day with them signifieth Blew What if I should conjecture that they were called Britans of their depainted bodies For whatsoever is thus painted and coloured in their ancient countrey speech they call Brith Neither is there cause why any man should thinke this Etymologie of Britaines to be harsh and absurd seeing the very words sound alike and the name also as an expresse image representeth the thing which in Etymologies are chiefly required For Brith and Brit doe passing well accord and that word Brith among the Britans implieth that which the Britans were indeed to wit painted depainted died and coloured as the Latine Poets describe them and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is having their backs pide or medly coloured as Oppianus termeth them Neither will it be impertinent as small a matter as it is to note here that as I have observed in the names of well neere all the most ancient Britaines there appeareth some signification of a colour which no doubt arose from this kind of painting The red colour is of the Britaine 's called Coch and Goch which in my judgement lieth couched in these names Cogidunus Argentocoxus and Segonax The same Britaines call the blacke colour Dû which after a sort sheweth it selfe in Mandubratius Cartimandua Togodumnus Bunduica Cogidunus The white colour is with them named Gwin the very prints as it were and expresse tokens of which word me thinkes I see in Venutius and Immanuentius Gwellw among them signifieth that which Color aqueuâ— among the Latines doth that is to say a wan or waterish colour and this appeareth evidently in the names of Vellocatus Caruillius and Suella Glass in the British tongue is as much as Blew which is seene in the name of King Cuniglasus For Gildas interpreteth it to be all one with Fulvus or as some copies have Furvus Laniâ— that is a Lion tawnie or coale blacke Butcher Aure which betokeneth a faire yellow or golden colour bewraieth it selfe in Cungetorius and Arviragus A lively and gallant colour is with them called Teg which maketh some little shew in Prasutagus and Carattacus But if we be perswaded that the Britans borrowed the names of mingled colours together with the very simple colours themselves of the Romans for certaine it is that they tooke from the Romans Werith for Viridis that is Greene Melin for Melinus that is a Quince yellow colour then if I thinke that there lyeth close some note of the colour Prasinus that is Leeke-blade greene in Prasutagus and of the red vermillon or Sinopre colour called of
the Latins Minium in the name of Acliminius King Cinobelinus his sonne no man I hope will stand against mee Moreover Rufina that most learned British Lady tooke that name of the colour Rufus that is sad râ—d like as Albane the first martyr in Britaine of Albus that is White And if any one that is skilfull in the old British tongue would examine the rest of British names which in the ancient Writers are not past foure or five more in all wee may well suppose that he shall find in those names as few as they be some signification of a colour Neither must we omit this observation that the commonest names at this day among the Britans Gwin Du Goch Lhuid were imposed upon them from the white blacke red russet or tawny colour So that now it may bee thought no such wonder that the whole nation it selfe drew the denomination from painting considering verily that they in generall painted themselves and the very Inhabitants both in times past and also in these our daies imposed upon themselves their names of Colours But now to the matter if haply all this hath beene beside the matter This also is certaine that in stories a Britaine is called in the British tongue Brithon I care not for the note of aspiration seeing that the Britaine 's who as Chrysostome saith had a hissing or lisping pronuntiation delight in aspirations which the Latines have carefully avoided Now as Brito came of Brith so did Britannia also in my opinion Britannia saith Isidore tooke that name from a word of the owne nation For what time as the most ancient Greeks and these were they that first gave the Island that name sailing still along the shore as Eratosthenes saith either as rovers or as merchants travailed unto nations most remote and disjoyned farre asunder and learned either from the Inhabitants themselves or else of the Gaules who spake the same tongue that this nation was called Brith and Brithon then they unto the word BRITH added TANIA which as we find in the Greek Glossaries betokeneth in Greek a region and thereof they made a compound name 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is the Britons-land for which they have written false 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 But Lucretius and Caesar the first Latines that made mention thereof more truely Britannia That this is so I doe the more firmely believe because that besides our Britaine a man shall not find over the face of the whole earth above three countries of any account and largenesse which end in the termination TANIA and those verily lying in this west part of the world namely MAVRITANIA LVSITANIA and AQVITANIA Which names I doubt not but the Greeks made and delivered to the Latines as who first discovered and surveied these lands For of Mauri they framed Mauritania as one would say the countrey of the Mauri which the home-bred people of that land as Strabo witnesseth called Numidia of Lusus the sonne of Liber Lusitania as it were the land of Lusius and Aquitania perhaps ab aquis that is of waters as Ivo Carnotensis is of opinion being a region seated upon waters in which sense as Plinie writeth it was before time named Armorica that is coasting upon the sea As for Turditania and Bastitania names of smaller countries they may hereto also be reduced which likewise were in this westerne tract to wit in Spaine and may seeme to signifie as much as the regions of the Turdi and the Basti Neither is it a strange and new thing that a denomination should be compounded of a forrein and a Greek word put together Names are compounded saith Quintilian either of our own that is Latine and of a strange word put together as Biclinium that is a roome with two beds or two tables and contrariwise as Epitogium that is a garment worne upon a gowne Anticato that is a book written against Cato or of two forrein words joyned in one as Epirrhedium a kind of wagon And this maner of composition is most usuall in the names of countries Came not Ireland by composition of the Irish word Erin and the English word Land Did not Angleterre that is England grow together of an English and of a French word and did not Franclond for so our Saxons named Francia or France proceed from a French and Saxon word Came not Poleland likewise from a Polonian word which among them betokeneth a plaine and a Germane Lastly was not Danmarch compounded of a Danish word and the Duch March which signifieth a bound or limit But in so plaine and evident a matter I will not use any more words Neither have we cause to wonder at this Greeke addition TANIA seeing that S. Hierome in his questions upon Genesis proveth out of most ancient authors that the Greeks inhabited along the sea coasts and Isles of Europe throughout as far as to this our Island Let us read saith he Varroes bookes of Antiquities and those of Sisinius Capito as also the Greeke writer Phlegon with the rest of the great learned men and we shall see all the Islands well neere and all the sea coasts of the whole world yea and the lands neere unto the sea to have beene taken up with Greeke Inhabitants who as I said before from the mountaines Amanus and Taurus even to the British Ocean possessed all the parts along the sea side And verily that the Greeks arrived in this our region viewed and considered well the scite and nature thereof there will be no doubt and question made if we observe what Athenaeus hath written concerning Phileas Taurominites of whom more anon who was in Britaine in the clx yeare before Caesars comming if we call to remembrance the Altar with an Inscription Vnto Vlysses in Greek letters and lastly if we marke what Pytheas before the time of the Romans time hath delivered in writing as touching the distance of Thule from Britaine For who had ever discovered unto the Greeks Britaine Thule the Belgicke countries and their sea coasts especially if the Greeks ships had not entred the British and German Ocean yea and related the description thereof unto their Geographers Had Pytheas thinke you come to the knowledge of sixe daies sailing beyond Britaine unlesse some of the Greeks had shewed the same Who ever told them of Scandia Burgos and Nerigon out of which men may saile into Thule And these names seeme to have been better knowne unto the most ancient Greeks than either to Plinie or to any Roman Whereupon Mela testifieth That Thule was much mentioned and renowned in Greek letters and Plinie likewise writeth thus Britaine an Island famous in the monuments and records both of the Greeks and of us By this meanes therefore so many Greek words have crept into the British French withall into the Belgicke or low-Dutch language And if Lazarus Bayfius and Budaeus do make their vant and glory in this that their Frenchmen have beene of
they be wealthy Their bodies are died with woâ—d whether it bee for to make a gallant shew or for what else it is uncertaine They pick quarel of warre at their pleasure to satisfie their owne wills and so oftentimes molest one another but principally upon an ambitious desire of rule and soveraigntie and an encroaching mind they have to enlarge their owne possessions Their fight is not only with horse or footmen but also with wagons and chariots harnessed and armed after the Gaul-like manner such as they call Covinos and in those they use axeltrees armed at both ends with hookes and sithes Cornelius Tacitus The Britans neerest unto Gallia resemble likewise the Gaules either because they retaine still somewhat of the race from which they descended or that in countries butting one against another the same aspects of the heavens doe yield the same complexion of bodies But generally if a man consider all it is most likely the Gaules which lay neerest peopled the land unto them In their ceremonies and superstitious perswation there is to bee seene an apparant conformitie The language differeth not much Like boldnesse to challenge and set into dangers when dangers are come like feare in refusing Saving that the Britans make more shew of courage as beeing not mollified yet with long peace For the Gaules also were once as we read redoubted in war till such time as giving themselves over to ease and idlenesse cowardise crept in and shipwrack was made both of manhood and libertie together And so is it also befallen to those of the Britans which were subdued of old The rest remaine such as the Gaules were before Their strength in the field consisteth of footmen Yet some countries there make war in wagons also The greater personage guideth the wagon his waiters and followers fight out of the same Heretofore they were governed by Kings now they are drawne by petty Princes into Partialities and Factions and this is the greatest helpe wee Romans have against those puissant Nations that they have no common counsell Seldome it chanceth that two or three States meete together and concur to repulse the common danger So whilst one by one fighteth all are subdued In another place An usuall manner it was with the Britans to seeke for the direction of the Gods by looking into the inwards of beasts and to make warre under the conduct of women neither mattereth it whether sex beare rule over them Whereupon learned men thinke Aristotle spake of the Britaines where he writeth That certaine warlike nations beyond the Celtes were subject to the government of women Dio Nicaeus out of the Epitome of Xiphilinus as touching the Britans in the North part of the Island They till no ground They live upon prey venison and fruits For of fish although there is exceeding great plenty thereof they will not taste their abode is in tents naked and unshod Wives they use in common and the children borne of them they all doe foster among them the Comminaltie for the most part doth governe most willing they bee to practise robbing In warre their service is out of Chariots the horses they have be little and swift of pace their footmen runne most speedily whiles they stand they bee strongest the armour and weapons that they use are a shield and short speare in the neather part whereof there hangeth a round bell of brasse like an apple that when it is shaken they might with the sound terrifie and maskre the enemies they have daggers also But principally they can endure hunger cold and any labour whatsoever For sticking fast in the bogs up to the head many daies together they will live without food and within the woods they feed upon the barks and roots of trees A certaine kind of meat they provide ready for all occasions whereof if they take but the quantitie of a Beane they are not wont either to be hungrie or thirstie Herodian They know no vse at all of garments but about their belly onely and necke they weare yron supposing that to be a goodly ornament and a proofe of their wealth like as all other Barbarians esteeme of gold For why their very bare bodies they marke with sundry pictures representing all manner of living creatures and therefore it is verily that they will not be clad for hiding forsooth that painting of their bodies Now they are a most warlike nation and very greedy of slaughter content to bee armed onely with a narrow shield and a speare with a sword besides hanging downe by their naked bodies Vnskilfull altogether how to use either corslet or helmet supposing the same to be an hinderance unto them as they passe over the bogs and marish grounds through the hot vapours arising from whence the skie and aire is there most part foggie The rest of the particulars which are very few I will lightly gather and crop here and there Plinie writing of Magicke But what should I quoth he rehearse these things in an art that hath passed over the Ocean also so far as beyond which nothing is to be discovered but aire and water And even at this day verily it is in Britaine highly honoured where the people are so wholly devoted unto it and that with all compliments of ceremonies as a man would thinke the Persian learned all their Magicke from them The same Plinie There groweth an hearbe in Gaule like unto Plantine named Glastum that is Woad with the juce whereof the women of Britaine as well married wives as their young daughters annoint and die their bodies all over resembling by that tincture the colour of Aethiopians in which manner they use at some solemne feasts and sacrifices to goe all naked Againe Their is not a daintier dish of meate known in Britain than are the Chenerotes fowles lesse than wild geese Also The Britaines wâ—re rings on their middle finger Likewise The Britaines manured their grounds with Marle in stead of dung That they inammelled or branded themselves as it were with certain marks which Tertullian termeth Britannorum stigmata that is The Britans marks Solinus sheweth The Countrey saith he is partly peopled with Barbarians who by the meanes of artificiall incisions of sundry formes have from their childhood divers shapes of beasts incorporate upon them and thus having these their markes deepely imprinted within their bodies looke how a man groweth more and more so doe these pictured characters likewise waxe Neither doe these savage Nations repute any thing to signifie their patience more than by such durable skars to cause their limbs to drinke in much painting and colour Dio. The Britaine 's worshipped as their Goddesses Andate that is Victorie and Adraste Caesar and Lucan Ships they had of which the Keeles the footstocks also or upright standards were made of light timber the rest of the body framed of windings and Oyster was covered over with leather Solinus How long soever they held on their
ornaments He suffered Licinius Crassus Frugi to follow after himselfe in this triumph mounted upon a trapped courser with a rich caparison and arraied in a roabe of Date tree worke Upon Posidius the Eunuch hee bestowed a speare staffe without an head upon C. Gavius cheines bracelets horseâ—trappings and a coronet of gold as is to be seene in an ancient marble at Taurinum In the meane time Aulus Plautius went on with the reliques of this war and sped so well in his battels that Claudius passed a decree that he should ride in pety triumph ovant and when he was entred into the City himselfe went to meet him giving him the right hand all the way both going and comming And Vespasian even then shewed by the destinies whom Claudius assumed unto him to beare a part of this British war partly under the conduct of Claudius himselfe and partly of Plautius fought thirty battels with the enemy two most mighty nations and above twenty townes together with the Isle of Wight he subdued For which worthy exploits he received triumphall ornaments and within a short space two sacerdotall dignities with a Consulship beside which hee bare the two last moneths of the yeare Titus also served here in quality of a Tribune under his father with exceeding commendation for his industry and valour for valiantly he delivered his father when he was besieged and no lesse report of his modest carriage as appeareth by a number of his Images and titles to them annexed thorowout the Provinces of Germanie and Britaine The rest of the Occurrences which hapned in Britaine afterward unto the very latter end of Domitian Tacitus who best can do it will declare by his owne words to this effect P. Ostorius Propraetor in Britan was welcomed at his first landing with troubles and tumults The enemies ranged all over the Allies country and used so much the greater violence for that they thought the new captaine was unacquainted with the army the winter also being now began would not come foorth to encounter But he knowing well that the first successes alwaies breed either feare or confidence gathered with all speed his readiest cohorts advanced toward the enemy and having slaine those which made head against him pursued the rest that were dispersed for feare they should joine againe and lest an hatefull and faithlesse peace might give neither captaine nor souldier any rest he went about to disarme as many of them as he suspected and by raising forts and setting garrisons upon the two rivers Aufona and the Severn to restrain and hem in the Britons Which the Iceni first of all refused a strong nation and unshaken with battels because of their owne motion they had sought our alliance and amity And at their instigation the people adjoyning chose a place to fight in compassed about with a rude and rusticall rampire having a narrow entrance of purpose to hinder the comming in of horsemen This fense the Romane captaine albeit he had under his conduct the power of his allies alone without the maine forces of the Legion assaieth to breake thorow And having bestowed his cohorts in rankes setteth the troupes of horsemen in like readinesse to performe their service Then after the signall given they broke open the said rampire and disordered the enemies encombred and penned within their owne hold And they knowing in their owne conscience they were no better than rebels and seeing all passages for escape stopped up shewed great valour and courage in defending themselves In which fight M. Ostorius the lieutenants sonne deserved the honor of saving a Citizen Vpon the discomfiture and slaughter of these Iceni they that wavered betweene warre and peace became setled and were quiet and so the army was led against the Cangi Whose territory they wasted harried and spoiled all over whiles the enemies durst not shew themselves in the field or if privily by stealth they attempted to cut off the taile of our armie as they marched they paid for their craft and deceit Now by this time were the Romanes come well neere to the sea coast that looketh toward Ireland when certaine troubles and discords sprung up among the the Brigantes brought their leader backe being certainly resolved to attempt no new matters before he had setled the old But as for the Brigantes some few being put to death that began first to take armes he pardoned the residue and all were quieted The Silures could neither by cruelty nor faire meanes bee reclaimed but they would needs war and therefore no remedy there was but to keepe them under with garrisons of Legionary souldiers Which to performe more easily the colonie called Camalodunum consisting of a strong company of old souldiers was brought into the countries by conquest subdued for succour and savegard against Rebels and an inducement to traine the Associats to observe the lawes Certaine Cities and States were granted by way of Donation to King Cogidunus according to the ancient custome of the people of Rome that they might have even Kings to be instruments of servitude and thraldome Then went the Romanes from thence against the Silures who besides their owne stoutnesse trusted much in the strength of Caractacus a man whom many dangerous adventures which he had waded thorow and as many prosperous exploits by him atchieved had so lifted up that he carried the reputation and praeheminence above all the British Commanders But he in subtill craft and knowledge of the deceitfull waies having the advantage of us though otherwise weaker in strength of souldiers translateth the warre into the country of the Ordovices and there joyning to him as many as feared our peace resolveth to hazard the last chance having chosen a place for the battell where the comming in and going forth with all things else might be incommodious to us but for his very advantageous Then against the high hilles and wheresoever there was any easie passage gentle accesse he stopped up the way with heaps of stones raised in manner of a rampier withall there ranne hard by a river having a doubtful foord and the severall companies of his best souldiers had taken their standing before the fortifications Besides all this the leaders of every nation went about exhorted and encouraged their men by making lesse all causes of feare and kindling in them good conceits of hope with all other motives and inducements to war And verily Caractacus bestirring himself and coursing from place to place protested That this was the day this the battell which should begin either the recovery of their libertie for ever or else perpetuall bondage And here he called upon his ancestors by name who had chased Caesar the Dictator from hence through whose valour they were freed from the Romane axes and tributes and enjoyed still the bodies of their wives ann children undefiled As he uttered these and such like speeches the generall multitude of the
inaggeratas Beda and the latter writers Stratas that is Streets Our Chronicles doubtlesse herein deceived doe hold that there were but onely foure such causeies as these of which the first was Watling-streete so called of one Vitellian I wote not what he was who had the charge thereof and indeed the Britans named Vitellian in their tongue Guetalin and Werlam-street for that it went through Verolamium which elsewhere also the people dwelling neere unto it named High dike High ridge Fortie-foot-way and Ridge-way The second they commonly call Ikemildstreet because it began in the Icenes country The third the Fosse for that as men thinke it was fensed on both sides with a ditch and the fourth Ermin-street by a German word of Mercurie whom as I am informed by Iohn obsopoeus a great learned man under the name of Ermisul that is the Columne of Mercurie the Germans our ancient progenitors worshipped Now that Mercurie had the charge of waies his name 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 among the Greekes may shew sufficiently as also his Statues with foure sides called in old time Hermae which were set every where upon high waies It hath been generally thought that one Mulmutius I know not what he should be many hundred yeares before the birth of Christ made these causeys but so far am I from believing it that I dare confidently avouch the Romans by little and little founded and raised them up Whilest Agricola saith Tacitus governed Britaine severall waies were enjoyned and farre distant places by the purveyors commandement that the country should carry from the nearest standing camps or wintering places to those that were farre off and out of the way And the Britans complained as the same Tacitus writeth That the Romans wore out and consumed their bodies and hands in cleering of woods and paving the Fens with a thousand stripes reprochfull indignities And so we read in ancient records That in the daies of Honorius and Arcadius there were made in Britaine certain beaten high waies from sea to sea That this was the Romans worke Beda witnesseth The Romans inhabited saith he within the wall which as I rehearsed before Severus had made overthwart the Island toward the southerne side which the Cities Churches and street waies there made doe witnesse at this day About the making of such causeys and high waies the Romans were wont to exercise their souldiers and the common multitude lest being idle they should grow factious and affect alteration in the Sate The Romans as Isodorus writeth made Causeys in sundry places almost through the world both for the direction of journeys and also because the people should not be idle and to the making and paving of such causeys prisoners were many times condemned as may be gathered out of Suetonius in the life of Caius And there are to be seene in Spaine the Causeys called Salamantica or Argentea as also in France certaine Rode waies called Viae militares paved by the Romans to say nothing of the way Appia Pâ—mpeia Valeria and others in Italie A long these Causeys and high waies Augustus placed young men at first as posts within small distances one from another and afterward swift wagons to give notice with all speed and out of hand what was doing in every place Neere or upon these Cawsies were seated Cities and Mansions which had in them Innes furnished with all necessaries belonging to this life for travailers and way-faring persons to abide and rest in as also Mutations For so they called in that age the places where strangers as they journied did change their post-horses draught beasts or wagons He therefore that seeketh not about these Rode waies for those places which are mentioned in the Itinerarie of Antoninus shall no doubt misse the truth and wander out of the way Neither think much of your labour in this place to note that the Emperors erected at every miles end along these Cawsies certaine little pillars or Columnes with numerall Characters or Letters cut in them to signifie how many miles Whereupon Sidonius Apollinaris writeth thus Antiquus tibi nec teratur agger Cujus per spatium satis vetustis Nomen Caesareum viret columnis That ancient cawsey doe not decay Where on good old pillars along the way The Caesars name stands fresh for aie Neere also unto these high waies on both sides were Tombs and Sepulchers with Inscriptions graved upon them in memoriall of brave and noble men that the passengers by might be put in mind that as those sometimes were mortall men so themselves are now For the repairing likewise of the said cawseys as wee may see in the Code of Theodosius title de Itinere muniendo that is Of making and mending waies They all were willing upon a good and profitable devotion who could doe best and make most speed in this businesse Furthermore in our owne ancient lawes there is mention made de pace quatuor Cheminorum that is Viarâ—m sub majori judicio that is Touching the peace of the foure Rhode-waies in some higher Court. Under the raigne of Nerva the writers have discontinued the Storie of Britannie But in the time of Trajane the Britans may seem to have revolted and rebelled and evident it is out of Spartianus that subdued then they were Moreover while Adrian was Emperour Julius Severus ruled the Island and when he was called away against the Jewes who then were in an uprore the Britans could not have beene kept in their allegiance to the Romans had not Adrianus come among them in person who being then Consull the third time in the yeare of Christ 124. seemeth by the prowesse of his armie to have discomfited his enemies For I have seene in one piece of mony of his coining the stampe of an Emperour with three souldiers whom I judge to represent three Legions with this Inscription EXER BRITANNICUS and another bearing this Inscription RESTITUTOR BRITANNY This Prince reformed many things throughout the Island and was the first that built a wall between the barbarous Britans and the Romans fourescore miles in length laying the foundation thereof within the ground of huge piles or stakes and fastning them together in manner of a strong hedge or mound For which expedition of his Florus the Poet plaied upon him thus Ego nolo Caesar esse Ambulare per Britannos Scythicas pati pruinas I will in no wise Caesar be To walke along in Britanie The Scythicke frosts to feele and see Unto whom Adrianus wrote back in this wise Ego nolo Florus esse Ambulare per tabernas Latitare per popinas Culices pati rotundos And I will never Florus be To walke from shop to shop as he To lâ—rke in Tavernes secretly And there to feele the round wine fly At this time M.F. CL. PRISCVS LICINIVS was the Propraetor of Britannie and emploied in the Journey of Jurie with Hadrian as appeareth by this antique Inscription in a broken marble
God was minded to purge his family and to recure it thus infected with so great corruption of sinnes by hearesay onely of tribulation the winged flight as one would say of an headlesse rumour pierceth the attentive eares of all men giving notice of ancient enemies ready to arrive and upon their comming fully minded to destroy them utterly and after their wonted manner to possesse and inhabite the countrey from one end to another Yet for all this were they never the better but like unto foolish and senselesse horses resisting the bridle of reason and refusing to admit the bit as they say into their close shut mouth leaving the way to salvation narrow though it were ran up and downe at randum all in the broad way of all wickednesse which leadeth directly and readily to death Whiles therefore as Salomon saith the obstinate and stubborne servant is not amended with words scourged hee is for a foole and feeleth not the whip For loe a pestilent contagion bringing much mortalitie falleth heavily upon the foolish people which in a short space when the enemies sword was gone destroied so great a multitude of them as that the living were not able to bury the dead Neither verily were they the better for it that the saying of Esay the Prophet might in them also bee fulfilled And God calleth them quoth he to sorrow and mourning to baldnesse and sackcloth but behold they fell to killing of calves to slaying of rams Lo they went to eating and drinking and said withall Let us eate and drinke for to morrow wee shall die And why the time drew neere wherein their iniquities like as those in times past of the Amorites should come to the fulnesse For they fall to consult what was the best and most convenient course to be taken for to represse so cruell and so many invasions of the forenamed nations with the booties which they raised Then all the Counsellors together with the proud tyrant become blinded and bewitched devising such a protection nay a destruction rather of their country as this namely that those most fierce Saxons a people foully infamous odious both to God and man should be let into this Island as one would say wolves into the sheep-folds to repulse forsooth and beat backe the Northern nations Than which I assure you nothing was ever devised and practised more pernicious nothing more unhappy unto this land O mist of sense and grossest understanding that ever was O desperate dulnesse and blind blockishnesse of mind Those whom in their absence they were inclined and given to dread more than very death now of their owne record these foolish Princes of Egypt entertained as I may say under the roofe of one house giving as hath beene said fond-foolish counsell unto Pharao Then rushed forth out of the barbarous Lionesses den a Kennell of whelps in three Vessels called in her language Cyulae that is Keeles and in our Latine tongue Longae naves under full saile carried with the wind of lucky sure presaging auguries whereby fore-prophesied it was unto them that for 300. yeares they should possesse and hold that land as their countrey unto which they directed their course and for an hundred and twentie that is the one moity of the said space oftentimes waste and depopulate the same These being put on shore first in the East-part of the Island and that by commandement of this infortunate tyrant set fast their terrible pawes and clawes there pretending unto the Islanders defence of their countrey but more truely intending the offence thereof unto which whelpes the foresaid dam the Lionesse finding that their first setting foote and marching forward sped well sends likewise a greater rabble of worrying freebooters which being arrived here in Flotes conjoyned themselves with the former misbegotten crew From hence it is that the shoot-grifts of iniquitie the root of bitternesse and virulent plants due to our deserts sprout and put forth in our soile proudly bud branch leafe Well these barbarous Saxons thus admitted into the Island obtaine allowance of victuals and wages as for douty souldiers and such as would endure hard service and much hazard for so they falsly beare men in hand in defence of their good hosts and friends for their kind entertainment Which being given unto them a long time stopped as wee say the dogs mouth Howbeit afterward they complaine that their monthly wages was not well paid them devising of purpose colourable occasions of quarrell protesting and threatning that unlesse they might feele more munificence powred and heaped upon them they would with the breach of covenant spoile and waste the whole Island throughout And without further delay they second these threats with very deeds for the cause of deserved revenge for precedent wickednesse was still nourished the fire kindled and set a flaming by these prophane men from sea to sea ceased not to consume all the cities and countreys bordering there about untill such time as burning well neere all the inland soile of the Island it licked up with a red flaming and terrible tongue all unto the westerne Ocean In this violent furious invasion comparable to that of the Assyrians in old time against Iuda is fulfilled also in us according to the historie that which the Prophet by way of sorrowfull lamentation uttereth They have burnt with fire thy Sanctuarie they have polluted in the Land the Tabernacle of thy name And againe O God the Gentiles are come into thine heritage they have defiled thy holy Temple c. In such wise as all the Colonies by the force of many engines and all the Inhabitants together with the Prelates of the Church both Priests and People by drawne sword glittering on every side and crackling flame of fire were at once laid along on the ground yea and that which was a piteous spectacle to behold in the midst of the streets the stone workes of turrets and high walles rent and torne in sunder from aloft the sacred altars and quarters of carcases covered with imbossed works of imagerie of a bloudy hue were seene all blended and mixed together as it were in a certaine horrible wine-presse neither was there any Sepulcher at all abroad save onely the ruins of buildings and the bowels of wild beasts and fowles When we shall read these reports let vs not be offended and displeased with good Gildas for his bitter invectives against either the vices of his owne countrey-men the Britans or the inhumane outrages of the barbarous enemies or the insatiable crueltie of our Fore-fathers the Saxons But since that for so many ages successively ensuing we are all now by a certaine engraffing or commixtion become one nation mollified and civilized with Religion and good Arts let us meditate and consider both what they were and also what wee ought to be lest that for our sinnes likewise the supreame Ruler of the world either translate other nations hither when wee are first rooted out
Poictou encountred them and were a barre that the Gothes possessed not themselves of all France For they sided with Anthemius the Roman Emperour against the Gothes so far forth that Aruandus was condemned for treason because in his letters sent unto the King of the Gothes he had given counsell to set upon the Britans dwelling over the river Loire and to divide France betweene the Gothes and Burgundians These Britans were a kind of people witty and subtile warlike tumultuous and in regard of their valour number and association stubborne in which termes Sidonius Apollinaris complaineth of them unto Riothimus his friend for so himselfe calleth him but Jornandes nameth him King of the Britans who afterward being sent for by Anthemius came with a power of 12. thousand men to aid the Romans but before that they joyned with them being with his owne forces vanquished in open field by the Gothes hee fled unto the Burgundians confederate with the Romans From that time the native Armoricans being by little and little subdued the name of the Britans in these parts where they were newly seated grew so great that generally all the Inhabitants there passed by little and little into the name of Britans like as this whole tract was called Britannia Armorica and of the Frankners Britannia Cismarina that is Britan on this side the sea and thereupon I. Scaliger versified thus Vicit Aremoricas animosa Britannia gentes Et dedit imposito nomina prisca jugo The nations Aremorican stout Britan overcame And with the yoke of servitude gave them her ancient name For they turned the edge of their weapons upon those their friends that gave them entertainement as appeareth evidently both by other testimonies and also by these words of Regalis Bishop of Vennes as touching himself and his We living saith he in captivitie under the Britans are subject to a grievous and heavie yoke Moreover in the times succeeding they couragiously maintained themselves and their estates First under petty Kings afterwards under Counts and Dukes against the French albeit as Glaber Rodolphus writeth Their only wealth was immunitie from paiments to the publique Treasurie and plentie of milke Also 500. yeares since William of Malmesbury wrote thus of them A kind of people they are needy and poore in their owne country otherwise also with foraine mony waged and purchasing a laborious and painfull life If they be well paid they refuse not so much as to serve in civill war one against another without all regard of right or kindred but according to the quantitie of mony readie with their service for what part soever you would have them BRITANS OF VVALES AND CORNWALES THe rest of the Britans who pitifully distressed in their own native countrey were put to seeke for their countrey were overlaied with so great calamities as no man is able sufficiently to expresse acccording to the nature of such horrible particulars as being not only molested grievously by the Saxons Picts Scots who made cruel war upon them far neere but also oppressed under the proud and intollerable rule of wicked tyrants in all places Now who those tyrants were and of what quality about the yeare of our Lord 500. have here in few words out of Gildas who then lived and was an eie witnesse Constantine a Tyrant among the Danmonij albeit he had sworne in expresse words before God and the companie of holy Saints that he would performe the office of a good Prince yet in two Churches under the sacred vesture of an Abbat flew two children of the bloud royall together with their Fosters two right valiant men and many yeares before having put away his lawfull wife was foulie defiled with a number of foule filthie adulteries Aurelius Conanus wallowing in the mire of Parricidies and adulteries hating the peace of his countrie is left alone as a tree withering in the open field whose father and brethren were with a wild youthfull and overweening phantasie carried away and by untimely death surprized Vortiporius tyrant of the Dimetae the ungratious sonne of a good father like to a Panther in manners so variably spotted with vices of divers sorts when his head was now waxen hoary and gray sitting in his throne full of craft and guile and the same defiled with Paricidies or murthers of his owne kinred and with adulteries beside cast off his owne wife and filthily abused her daughter unawares and unwitting yea and he tooke also her life away Cuneglasus in the Roman tongue Lanio fulvus that is the Lyon tawney Butcher a Beare sitting and riding upon many the driver of that chariot which holdeth the Beare a contemner of God an oppressor of the Clergie fighting against God with grievous sinnes and warring upon man with materiall armour and weapons turned away his wife provoked the Saints and holy men with manifold injuries proudly conceited of his owne wisedome and setting his hope in the uncertaintie of riches Maglocunus Dragon of the Isles the deposer of many Tyrants out of Kingdome and life both the most forward in all mischiefe for power and malicious wickednesse together greater then many more a large giver but a more prodigall and profuse sinner stronger in armes higher also than all the Potentates of Britaine as well in royall dominion as in the stature and lineaments of his person In his youthfull daies with sword and fire he brought to destruction his Vncle by the mothers side being then King together with many right hardy and redoubted servitours After that phantasie of a violent course of rule according to his desire was gone upon a remorse of conscience for his sinnes vowed to bee a professed Monke but soone after returning to his vomit breaking the said vow of Monkes profession he despised his first marriage and became enamoured upon the wife of his brothers sonne whiles he was living the said brothers sonne and his owne wife after hee had kept her for a certaine time hee murthered and then maried that brothers sonnes wife whom hee before had loved But I must leave the report of these things to History writers who hitherto have falsly set downe that these Tyrants succeeded one after another whereas in truth as we may perceive by Gildas who speaketh unto them severally and personally one by one they all at once and the very same time usurped tyranny in divers quarters of the Island And now to returne The residue of Britans remaining alive withdrew themselves into the westerne parts of the Island naturally fenced with mountaines and inlets of the sea to those parts I meane which now we call Wales and Cornwall The Inhabitants of the one the Saxons named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the other 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 like as those in Gaule Galweales For Walsh with them signifieth strange and forraine whence also the Wallons in the low Countries and the Vallachians upon the river Dunow had their
ancient so they have been the Conquerours of most Nations themselves alwaies invincible and never subject to the Empire of others Neither must we forget in this place that the Cauci and Menapij ranged among the most famous Nations of Germanie are by Ptolomee placed in Ireland under the same names and in the very same vicinitie one to the other so that by all likelihood they derived from the same Germans both their name and also their descent If the Scots have not their originall from these I would they pondred with themselves whether they were not of those Barbarians who as it is recorded in King Alphonsus his Chronicles were by Constantine the Great driven out of Gallycia in Spaine for out of those parts they will needs have it that they came into Ireland If they demand who those Barbarians were I doubt not but they will bee of the same minde with me that they were Germans For during the raigne of Gallienus the Emperour the Germans dwelling in the farthest parts saith Orosius of Germanie spoiled and held Spaine in subjection and who should those remote Germans bee unlesse they were meere Scythians but Aurelius Victor whom Andrew Schot hath published called those Germans Frankes But seeing those Frankes and Germans inhabiting the farthest parts of Germanie putting to sea from thence sailed in their heate and furie farre into the Ocean and as Nazarius saith unto Constantine greatly annoied and did much harme by these our seas even to the Spanish coasts also who will believe that they preferred the dry and barren soile of Biscay before Ireland an Isle most fruitful and fitly scited to endamage Spain Nay rather as in the time of Charles the Great and afterwards the Norwegians out of Scandia did often attempt and invade Ireland yea and seated themselves there so wee may with good probabilitie conjecture that the Frankes did the same before and that they passed from hence into Spain and after they were driven out thence by Constantine the Great retired backe againe into Ireland Credible likewise it is that more of them afterwards flocked thither what time as the Vandales and Gothes depopulated Spaine and as barbarous nations warred among themselves and made havocke of all as also when any storme of Sarazens lay sore upon the Spaniards and drave a great number of them into Gallycia and Biscay But I leave these overtures unto others for to prie further into let it be sufficient for me that I have beene but willing onely to remoove this cloud out of the way But I beseech the learned Scots in this place to consider here how it commeth to passe that the Irish being the ancient forefathers and Progenitors of the Scots yea and the Scots themselves beare them highly of this that they be called Gael and Gaiothel and their Language Gaiothlac as also why they named that part of Britaine which they first possessed Argathel Whence can they say that these names sprang From the Gallaeci in Spaine from whom very many no doubt flitted over into Ireland and whose beginning is fetched from the Gallatae or Galles or from the Goths as some later Writers are of opinion who would have this word Gaiothel to proceed from the Gothes as likely as Catholonia did in Spaine Here should they have drawn arguments from the affinitie between the Gothicke Language and the Irish which not withstanding so farre as ever I could finde hath no resemblance at all of any other tongues in all Europe save onely of the * Welch and Dutch How truly Henry Huntingdon writeth The Scots came in the fourth age of the world out of Spaine into Ireland and part of them who still remained there useth as yet the same Language and are called Navarrians how truely I say he hath delivered this let others speake And here I omit David Chambres the Scotish-man who hath beene enformed by certaine Jesuites that the Scottish tongue is used in East India I am afraid lest that countrey so farre remote as it is made the credulous man bold not to make a lie but to tell a lie But if arguments in this case may bee taken from the habite and apparell of the people surely the array and clothing of the wild Scots at this day is all one with that of the Gothes in times past as wee may by and by perceive out of Sidonius Apollinaris who in describing a Goth portraieth depainteth unto us a wild Scot as right as may be They are saith he of a flaming deepe yellow died with saffron they buckle upon their feete a paire of Broges made of raw and untanned leather up to their ankles their knees thighes and calves of their legs are all bare their garments high in the necke straight made and of sundry colours comming scarce downe to their hammes the sleeves cover the upper points of their armes and no more their souldiers coats of colour greene edged with a red fringe their belts hanging downe from the shoulder the lappets of their eares hidden under the curled glibbes and lockes of haire lying all over them For so a man may very rightly call the manifold branched and parted twists of haire which Scots Irish weare they use also hooked Speares which Gildas termeth Vncinata tela and axes to fling from them They wore likewise strait bodied coats as saith Porphyrio fitted close to their breasts without girdles If this bee not for all the world the very right apparell of the wild Irish-Scots let themselves be Judges I would withall they did consider these words of Giraldus Cambrensis in his first booke of The Institution of a Prince When Maximus saith he was passed out of Britaine into Gaule with the whole power of men forces and armour that the Island could make and all to seize into his hands the Empire Gratian and Valentinian brethren and partners in the Empire shipped over these Gothes a Nation hardie and valiant in feats of armes being also either confederate with them or subject and obliged unto them for benefits which they had received of the Emperours from the borders of Scythia into the North parts of Britaine for to annoy the Britans and cause the said Vsurper to returne backe with his forces But they because they were exceeding puissant such was the inbred valour and warlike nature of the Gothes and withall finding the Island destitute both of men and other meanes to defend it becomming of pirats and rovers neighbour dwellers planted themselves in the said Northerne parts and held by strong hand no small Provinces thereof which they usurped as their owne Now who these Gothes were let others shew and peradventure out of Procopius they may find some light in whom we read That Belisarius when the Goths expostulated with him for that he had granted Sicilie to the Romans answereth in these words And wee likewise permit the Gothes to have unto themselves Britaine a farre better countrey than Sicilie and in
contrariwise Wherefore seeing these things make nothing to his cause I will second Buchanan by way as it were of a fresh supply with the aid of Egesippus who is commonly reputed a verie ancient writer For thus writeth he where he treateth of the Romans power They make Scotland to quake which is beholden to no land for any thing before them Saxony trembleth that for Marishes is inaccessible But heare you me this author shal stand behind in the rereward for he lived after Constantines daies as may be gathered out of his owne writings neither can it bee prooved out of him that the Scots dwelt in Britain no more than out of that verse of Sidonius which erewhile I alleaged Yea mary but there is another reason of more weight and moment indeed which M. Iohn Crag a right famous and learned man found by most exquisite and curious search in Ioseph Ben-Gorion writing of the destruction of Ierusalem to wit that in an Hebrew copie the Scots are expresly named where Munster in his Latine translation hath untruely put downe Britans for Scots But in what age that Ben-Gorion lived I cannot find for certaine sure I am that hee was after Flavius Iosephus because he maketh mention of the Franks whose name long after began to be knowne But surely if I may be so bold as to interpose my selfe in this question among so great Scholars so farre as I have beene able to observe the first time that ever the Scotish nation became named in authors was whiles Aurelianus was Emperour For Pophyrie who then wrote against the Christians as Saint Ierome informeth us mentioned them in these words Neither Britaine a fertile Province of tyrants nor the Scotish nations together with the barbarous people round about as farre as to the Ocean had any knowledge of Moses and the Prophets At which time verily or somewhat before those that are well seene in Antiquities have noted that the names of the most potent nations of French and Almanes were not heard of before the time of Gallienus the Emperour It is no assured truth therefore which some write That the name and Kingdome of the Scots flourished in Britaine many hundred yeeres before the birth of Christ. But hearken to Girald who will tell you the just time When Great O-Nel saith he held the Monarchie of Ireland six sonnes of Mured King of Vlster seized upon the North parts of Britaine Hereupon from them was there a nation propagated which by a peculiar name called Scotica that is Scotish inhabiteth that part even to this day And that this befel at the very time when the Roman Empire in every mans sight grew to decay it is collected thus Whiles Lagerius the sonne of that O-Nel raigned over the Irish Patrick the Apostle of the Irish-men came into Ireland much about the yeere after Christs nativitie 430. So as it may seeme this hapned neere the daies of Honorius Augustus For then whereas before time ranging up and downe without any certaine place of abode as Ammianus doth report they had long annoyed Britaine and the places appointed for the Marches they seeme to have set their footing in Britaine But they themselves will have it thus that they did but returne then out of Ireland whither they had retired before what time they were put to flight by the Britans and driven away and so they understood that place out of Gildas of this very time The Irish spoilers returne home minding shortly to come backe againe And much about this time some think that Reuda whom Bede mentioneth either by force and armes or through favour planted himselfe in this Island upon an arme of the river Cluid Northward And of this Captaine Reuda saith he the Dalreudini even to this day take their name For in their tongue Dal signifieth a part and others think that from this Reuda it was that wee called the Irish-Scots Redshanks It is thought also that the same Simon Brech whom the Scots avouch to bee the founder of their nation flourished in these daies Sinbrech in truth was the name of the man which is as much to say as Sin with the freckled face as we read in Fordon And peradventure the same Brech he was who about the time of S. Patricke together with Thuibai Mac-lei and Auspac Scots infested Britaine as wee read in the life of Saint Carantoc But why the High-land Scots living in Britaine call that countrey which they inhabite Alban and Albin and the Irish name it Allabany were a question for an ingenuous and liberall wit to travell in as namely whether this word Allabany may not have it in some token of the ancient Albion or whether it came of whitenesse which they call Ban and therefore may import as much in Scotish as Ellan-Ban that is a white Island or whether it bee derived of Ireland which the Irish Poets name Banne so that Allabanny may sound as much as another Ireland or a second Ireland For Historiographers were wont to call Ireland Scotland the greater and the Kingdome of the Scots in Britaine Scotland the lesse Moreover seeing these Scots in their own language terme themselves Albin whereupon Blondus called the Scots Albienses or Albinenses and Buchanan Albini let Criticks consider whether that in Saint Ierome where hee inveigheth against a certaine Pelagian a Scot borne it should not be read Albinum for Alpinum when hee taketh him up in these termes The great and corpulent Alpine dog and who is able to doe more harme with his heeles than his teeth for he hath his of-spring of the Scotish nation neere neighbours to the Britans of whom also in another place he said that hee was full fatned with Scottish pottage brewesse Of Alpine dogs I never remember that I have read ought but that Scotish dogs were in much request at Rome in those daies Symmachus sheweth unto us Seven Scotish Dogs there were saith he the day going before the Games which in Rome they wondred at so as they thought they were brought thither in yron-grated Cages But after that the Scots were come into Britaine and had joyned themselves unto the Picts albeit they never ceased to vexe the Britans with skirmishes and in-roades yet grew they not presently up to any great state but kept a long time in that corner where they first arrived not daring as Beda writeth for the space of one hundred and seven and twentie yeares to come forth into the field against the Princes of Northumberland untill at one and the same time they had made such a slaughter of the Picts that few or none of them were left alive and withall the Kingdome of Northumberland what with civill dissentions and invasions of the Danes sore shaken and weakned fell at once to the ground For then all the Northerne tract of Britaine became subject to them and tooke their name together with that hithermore countrey on this side Cluid and Edenburgh Frith For that
it also was a parcell of the Kingdome of Northumberland and possessed by the English-Saxons no man gain-saieth and hereof it is that all they which inhabit the East part of Scotland and be called Lowland men as one would say of the Lower-countrey are the very of-spring of the English-Saxons and doe speake English But they that dwell in the West coast named Highland men as it were of the upper countrey be meere Scots and speake Irish as I have said before and none are so deadly enemies as they be unto unto the Lowland men which use the English tongue as we doe Ammianus Marcellinus writeth that together with the Scots ATTACOTTI a warlike people did much mischiefe unto Britaine and those Humfrey Lhuid guesseth how truely I know not to have beene also of the Scotish nation Saint Ierome telleth us plainely that they were a British people For he writeth that when he was a very youth while Iulian as it seemeth was Emperour he saw in Gaule the Attacots a British nation feed of mans flesh who when they found in the Forrests heards of swine flockes of neat and other cattell were wont to cut off the buttockes of their heard-men and keepers the dugs also and paps of the women and account the same the onely dainties in the world For so according to the true Manuscript copies we are to read in this place Attacotti and not Scoti with Erasmus who acknowledgeth this text to be corrupted Although I must needs confesse that in one Manuscript wee read Attigotti in another Catacotti and in a third Cattiti Neither can this passage bee any waies understood as the vulgar sort take it of the Scots considering that Saint Ierome treating there of the sundry orders and manners of divers nations beginneth the next sentence following in this wise The nation of the Scots hath no proper wives of their owne c. In another place also where Saint Ierome maketh mention of the Attacotti Erasmus putteth downe for them Azoti These Attacoti as appeareth by the booke called Notitiae served under the Romans in their warres in the very decaying and declining state of their Empire For reckoned there are among the Palatine aids within Gaul Attecotti Iuniores Gallicani and Attecotti Honoriani Seniores also within Italie Attecotti Honoriani Iuniores By this addition Honoriani they seeme to be of the number of those Barbarians whom Honorius the Emperour entertained and to no small dammage of the Empire enrolled as souldiers to serve in his warres Among these nations also which made rodes and invasions into Britain Iohn Caius a man much exercised with cares and endevours of the best kind and one who hath passing well deserved of our Common-wealth of learning reckoneth the Ambrones for that he red in Gildas where he writeth of Picts and Scots thus Those former enemies like Ambrones Wolves even enraged for extreame hunger with dry jawes leaping over the sheep-fold whiles the shepheard is out of the way being carried with the wings of ores and armes of rowers set forward also with sailes helped with gales of winde breake thorow the bounds killing and slaying all where they came This good meaning old man thought of that which hee had read in Festus namely that the Ambrones together with the Cimbri flocked by numbers into Italie and being busied about another matter it was quite out of his head that Ambro as Isidorus noteth doth signifie a Devourer Neither doth Gildas use that word in any other sence nor Geffrey of Monmouth who called the Saxons also Ambrones nor any other Ambrones than these could my selfe hitherto ever find in ancient Writers to have invaded Britaine ENGLISH-SAXONS WHen as now the Romane Empire under Valentinian the younger did more than decline and Britaine being exhaust through so many levies of all able men and abandoned of the Romane garisons could no longer withstand the force of Scots and Picts Vortigern whom the Britans had made their Soveraigne and chiefe Governour or who as others thinke had usurped the Monarchie to the end that he might establish his imperiall rule and recover the State falling to ruine much awed hee was saith Ninnius by the Picts and Scots he stood in feare of the Romanes forces and was afraid of Aurelius Ambrosius sent for the Saxons out of Germanie to aide him who forthwith under the conduct of Hengist and Horsa with their Ciules for so they called their Flat-boats or Pinnaces arrive in Britaine and after they had in one or two battels gotten the victorie against the Picts and Scots became verie much renowned and seeing the Britans still relying upon their manhood and courage they send for greater forces out of Germany which should keepe watch and ward upon the borders and annoy the enemies by land and sea Guortigern saith Ninnius by the advice of Hengist sent for Octha and Ebissa to come and aid him who being embarqu'd in 40. Cyules or Pinnaces and sailing about the Picts coasts wasted the Isles called Orcades yea and got many Isles and Countreys beyond the Frith as farre as to the confines of the Picts But at length after they had begun to fall in love with the Lands the civill fashions and riches of Britaine presuming upon the weaknes of the Inhabitants and making the default of pay and want of victuals their quarrell they entred into league with the Picts and raised a most bloodie and mortall warre against the Britans who had given them entertainment they kill and slay them in every place being put in affright and amazednesse their fields they harrie their cities they raze and after many doubtfull events of battell fought against those two bulwarks of warre Aurelius Ambrosius who here tooke upon him to weare the purple roabe wherein his parents were killed and that warlike Arture they disseize the Britans of the more fruitfull part of the Isle and drive them out of their ancient possessions At which time to speake all in a word the most miserable Inhabitants suffred whatsoever either conquerour might dare or the conquered feare For supplies of aide flocked together daily out of Germanie which still should renew warre upon warre against the wearied Britans to wit Saxons Iutes for so must we read and not Vites and Angles who by these proper names were knowne one from another although generally they were called English and Saxons But let us treat of these in severall and summarily that if it be possible we may have a sight of our originall and first cradles Howbeit first will I adde hereto that which Witichindus being himselfe both a Saxon borne and also a writer of good antiquitie hath related as touching the comming in of the Saxons Britaine saith hee being by Vespasian the Emperour long since reduced among Provinces and under the vassalage of the Romanes standing them in stead and serving to good use a long time became assailed by their neighbour-nations for that it seemed destitute and abandoned
of the Romans helpe For the people of Rome after that the Emperour Martial was by his souldiers killed being sore tired out with forraigne warres was not able to assist their friends with supply of accustomed aides Yet neverthelesse the Romanes having built a mightie peece of worke for the defence of the Countrey reaching betweene the confines from sea to sea where it was thought that the enemies would assaile the Inhabitants left the Land But no difficultie it was for the enemie fiercely bent and alwaies ready to wage warre especially where they deale with a nation feeble and unable to make warlike resistance to destroy the said worke Therefore hearing by report of the worthy and fortunate exploits atchieved by the Saxons they send an humble Embassage to require their helping hand and so the Embassadors having audience given them came forth and spake as followeth Most noble Saxons The poore and distressed Brets out-toiled and over-tired by the many incursions of their enemies hearing the fame of those victories which yee have valorously atchieved have sent us suppliants unto you craving that yee would not denie us your helpe and succour A large and spatious Land plentifull and abundant in all things they yeeld whollie to be at your devotion and command Hitherto have we lived liberally under the patronage and protection of the Romanes after the Romans we know none of more prowesse than your selves and therefore wee seeke for refuge under the wings of your valour So that we may by your puissant vertue and armes be found onely superiour to our enemies what service soever ye impose upon us willing we are to abide the same To this petition the Peeres and Nobles of the Saxons briefly made answere in this wise Know yee that the Saxons will be fast friends unto the Brets and prest at all times both to assist them in their necessitie and also to procure their wealth and commoditie With joy returne these Embassadours home and with this wished for tidings make their countrey-men more joyfull Hereupon according to promise an armie sent into Britaine and joyfully received in short time freeth the Land from the spoiling enemies and recovered the countrey unto the behoofe of the Inhabitants For the performance hereof required no great labour the enemies who had long since heard of the Saxons were terrified with the verie fame that was bruited of them so that their very presence drave them farre off For these were the nations that troubled the Brets namely Scots and Pehits against whom the Saxons whiles they maintaine warres received of the Brets all things necessary They abode therefore in that country a good while making use in civill sort of the Brets friendship reciprocally But so soone as the Chieftaines of the armie saw the countrey to be large and fertile and withall the hands of the Inhabitans slow to practise feats of armes and considered therewith that themselves and the greatest part of the Saxons had no certaine place to seat themselves in they send over to call unto them a greater power and more forces Thus having concluded peace with the Scots and Pehits they rise all together in common against the Brets drive them out of the countrey and divide the Land at their pleasure as if it were their owne Thus much Witichindus The originall and Etymologie of the Saxons like as of other nations not onely Monkes ignorant as they were in learned antiquitie but also latter Writers being men of some exact and exquisite judgment have enwrapped with forged and fained fables Some derive them and their name from Saxo the sonne of Negnon and brother of Vandalus others from their stonie nature some from the remaines of the Macedonian armie others of certaine knives whereupon was made that rhyme in Engelhusius Quippe brevis gladius apud illos Saxa vocatur Vnde tibi nomen Saxo traxisse putatur For Sax with them and Short-sword is the same From whence it 's thought the Saxon tooke his name But Crantzius deriveth them from the Catti in Germanie and that learned Capnio from the Phrygians Of these let every man follow which he liketh best For such conjectural opinions as these I will not labour to disproove Howbeit that conceit of the best learned Germans may seeme worthy of acceptance and to bee preferred before the rest who suppose that the Saxons descended from the Sacae a most noble Nation and of much worth in Asia and so called as one would say Sacosones that is the sonnes of the Sacae and that out of Scythia or Sarmaria Asiatica they came in companies by little and little together with the Getae Suevi Daci and others into Europe Neither is this opinion of theirs improbable which fetcheth the Saxons out of Asia wherein mankind was first created and multiplied for besides that Strabo writeth how those Sacae as before time the Cimerij made invasions into countreys which lay farre off and termed a part of Armenia after their owne name Sacacena Ptolomee also placeth the Sassones Suevians Massagetes and Daci in that part of Scythia and Cisner observeth that these Nations retained the same vicinitie or neighborhood in a manner in Europe which was among them in former times when they were in Asia Neither is it lesse probable that our Saxons descended from these Sacae or Sassones in Asia call them whether you will than the Germanes from those Germanes in Persia of whom Herodotus maketh mention which they themselves after a sort doe affirme by reason of the affinitie of their Language for that singular Scholer Ioseph Scaliger sheweth that these words Fader Moder Tutchter Band and such like are at this day found in the Persian tongue in the same sence as we use Father Mother Brother Daughter and Bond. But when the Saxons began first to bee of any name in the world they had their abode in Cimbrica Chersonesus which wee now call Denmarke wherein Ptolomee placeth them who was the first author as far as I find that mention them For we should not indeed read Saxones as it is in some bookes but more truly Axones in that verse of Lucan Longisque leves Axônes in armis And Axons in side armour light and nimble Out of this Cimbrica Chersonesus in the time of Dioclesian they with the Frankes their neighbours troubled our coasts and the seas with Piracie in so much as for the defence of the countrey and to repell them the Romanes made Carausius their Generall Afterwards they having passed over the river Albis part of them by little and little gat footing within the seat and territorie of the Suevians where now is the Dukedome of Saxonie and part of them bestowed themselves in Frisland and Holland which now the Frankes had quite forsaken For those Frankes who before time had inhabited those inmost Fennes of Frisland whereof some by overflowes and flouds are growne to be that sea which at this day they call Zuider-sea and possessed
themselves of Holland then called Batavia under Constantius Chlorus Constantine the Great and his sonnes being received as Liege-men and translated from thence to inhabite the waste and desert countries of Gaule either by the swords point making way into more plentifull regions or else as Zosimus writeth driven out by the Saxons departed out of Holland From which time all the people bordering upon that sea coast in Germanie which were men of warre and professed Piracie as before they grew to be Franci so now they became clepid Saxons those Nations I meane which inhabite Iutland Sleswicke Holst Ditmarse the Bishopricke of Breme the countie of Oldenburgh both East and West Frisland and Holland For the nation of the Saxons as Fabius Quaestor Ethelward himselfe descended of the Saxons royall bloud writeth was wholly all that upon the seacoast from the river Rhene unto the citie Donia and which now is commonly called Dane-Marc Which author that I may acknowledge by whom I have profited master Thomas Allen of Oxford an excellent man and one endued with very many singular Arts first found out and of his courtesie imparted the same unto me with many others Out of this Maritime tract the Saxons fleshed now with the slaughter of many Romanes brake many times into the Romans provinces and for a great while annoied this Iland untill Hengist himselfe came Who out of Batavia or Holland sailed into Britaine and built that Castle of Leiden in Holland as not onely the Hollanders Annals doe testifie but also that noble Ianus Dousa a man of excellent wit and learning who of that Castle versifieth thus Quem circinato maenium ut ambitu Sic arcuatis fornicibus novum Putatur Hengistus Britanno Orbe redux posuisse victor Which Hengist by report when he Return'd from Britaine with victorie Built new with walles in compasse round And on vaults arched under ground The Iutae who had that name as many thinke from the Gutes Getes or Gothes for in a manuscript booke we read Geatun did for certaine inhabite the upper part of Cimbrica Chersonesus which still the Danes call Iuitland descended haply of those Guttae whom Ptolomee hath placed in Scandia whose habitation this day is called Gothland But take heede you thinke not with Iornandes that this was the native country of those Gothes who with victorious conquests over-ran all Europe for the most ancient and best approoved writers have recorded unto us that they dwelt beyond the river Ister fast by Pontus Euxinus and were before time called Getae But in what place the Angles were seated it is a question neither are all men of one opinion Most authors place them in Westphalia where Engern standeth and where the Suevians whom Tacitus and Ptolomee make mention of had their abode whom I am willing to beleeve if wee speake of the age of Tacitus but I suppose that from thence they came downe to the tract by the sea side Others seeke for them in Pomerania where the towne Angloen flourisheth But seeing these reach into the more inland parts of Germany far from our seas surely we must seek for some other seat of our Angles or Englishmen which Beda willed me to looke for between the Saxons and Iutes The Angles quoth he came out of that countrey which is called Angulus and is reported from that time to lie waste betweene the Provinces of the Saxons and Iutes Now seeing that between Iuitland and Holsatia the ancient countrey of the Saxons there is a little Province in the Kingdome of Dania named at this day Angel beneath the citie Flemsburg which Lindebergius in his Epistles calleth Little Anglia I dare affirme that now at length I have found the place of our ancestors habitation and that from thence the Angles came into this Iland And to averre this the more confidently I have good warrant from the authoritie of that ancient writer Ethelwardus whose words be these Old Anglia is sited between the Saxons and the Giots they have a capitall towne which in the Saxon tongue is named Sleswic but the Danes call it Haithby In which verie place Ptolomee seemeth to set the Saxons So that a Poet of the middle time sung not untunably in this manner Saxonia protulit Anglos Hoc patet in lingua niveoque colore That Englishmen from Saxons draw descent Their colour white and tongue make evident Of these Angles some part having passed forward into the inmore quarters of Germanie being blended with the Longobards and the Suevians went as farre as Italie and are thought to have left their footing in Engelheim the native countrey of Charles the Great Ingolstad Engleburg Englerute in Germanie and Angleria in Italie But what the reason or Etymologie is of the name I dare not definitively pronounce Away with that Angulus the son of Humblus and with Queene Angela whom foolish folke babble to have beene the founders of our Nation Neither thinke we that their name was imposed of Angulus that is An angle or corner as if it were a corner of the world as some building upon that stale verse seeme to hold Anglia terra ferax fertilis angulus orbis Insula praedives quae toto vix eget orbe England a fruitfull angle is without the world so wide An Iland rich that hath small need of all the world beside Neither doth Goropius his conjecture deserve credit but rather a smile which deriveth Anglos that is Englishmen from Angle that is A fishing rod or a Fish-hooke because saith he they hooked all unto them and were as we say Good Anglers But he that seeth the Etymologie of Engelbert Englehard and such like Dutch names may see perhaps the originall of Angli also Moreover it may seeme out of Procopius that the Frisones likewise came with others into Britaine The text whole as it lieth for that the booke is not commonly extant in print I will not thinke much here to set downe even as Franciscus Pithaeus a singular good man and in all sorts of Antiquitie most skilfull hath exemplified it unto me out of the Kings Library in Paris 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 That is according to my grosse translation thus The Iland Britaine three most populous nations doe inhabite which have everie one their severall King to rule them and these Nations be called Angili Frisones and after the name of the very Iland Britones Now they seeme to be so great a multitude of people that every yeere a mightie number of them with their wives and children flit from thence unto the Franks and they give them entertainment in that part of their Land which seemeth most desert above the rest and hereupon men say they challenge unto themselves the verie Iland And verily not long since when the King of the Franks sent certaine of his people in Embassage to Constantinople unto the Emperour Iustinian he sent withall some English pretending ambitiously that this Iland was under his
fighting now with him as it were for their libertie and native country hee overcame his enemies and when hee spoiled the naturall Inhabitants killed them up and in manner left not one alive their land according to his promise hee set out and appointed for the Conquerours to possesse who dividing the same by casting lots seeing many of them were slaine in the wars and that by reason of their fewnesse the whole country could not be occupied and peopled by them part of it that especially which lyeth Eastward they made over to coloners and new Inhabitants to every one according as by lot it fell out to be holden and tilled for a certaine rent and tribute All the rest they themselves possessed On the Southside verily these Saxons have the Franks and a remnant of the Thuringers whom the precedent whirlewind of hostilitie had not touched and are divided from them by the channell of the river Unstrote Northward dwell the Normans a most fierce Nation East from them the Obotrites inhabite and Westward the Frisians from whom continually without intermission they defended their territories and marches thereof either by Covenants of league or necessary skirmishing But now returne wee to our English-Saxons For a long time the State and Empire of the Saxons flourished exceeding well under the foresaid Heptarchie untill those Kingdomes bruised and impaired one of another with civill warres came all in the end to bee subjest unto the West-Saxons For Egbert King of these West-Saxons having conquered already foure of these Kingdomes and swallowed up as it were in hope the other twaine also to the end that they which were subdued and reduced to the rule of one Prince might bee conjoyned likewise in one name commanded by an Edict and Proclamation that the Heptarchie which the Saxons held should bee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is England whereupon in Latine it was named Anglia taking denomination of the Angles as beeing of those three nations most in number and of greatest prowesse For they kept in their possession the Kingdome of Northumberland and Mercia very great and large countries together with East-England whereas the off-spring of the Jutes held Kent only and the Isle of Wight The Saxons East-sex South-sex West-sex a small parcell verily if it be compared with those spatious territories lands of the English Of whom long before this they were generally throughout called English in their owne language Englatheod Anglcynne Engl-cynn and Englisc-mon albeit every Kingdome therein had a speciall name of the owne by it selfe And this appeareth for certaine as well out of other writers as Beda who intituled his Story The Historie of the English-Nation Yea and in that Heptarchie those Princes that over-ruled the rest were stiled Gentis Anglorum Reges that is Kings of the English nation At this time the name of Britaine lay forgotten and growne quite out of use among the Inhabitants of this Island remaining only in books and not taken up in common speech And hereupō it is that Boniface the bishop of Mentz descended frō hence called this our country Saxony beyond the Sea Howbeit K. Eadred about the yeare of our Lord 948. used in some Charters and Patents the name and title of King of Great Britaine like as Edgar in the yeare 970. bare this stile also The Monarch of all whole Albion Being now called Anglia or England the state and puissance of these Angles was come to the full height and therefore such is the revolution of all mortall things hastened apace to their period and end For the Danes continually infesting our coasts many yeares together at the length began to enter ransacking and mangling this countrie most pittifully NAMES OF ENGLISH-SAXONS MY purpose was even here to have set downe the orderly succession of the English-Saxon Kings both in the Heptarchie and also in their Monarchie but seeing that they seeme not properly to belong unto this place neither is the bare heaping up of names onely delightfull to the Reader perhaps it will be more acceptable if I briefly annexe hereto what I have observed by much reading and especially in Alfricus our ancient Grammarian as touching the force reason and signification of the ancient English names Not that my meaning is to interpret every name severally for that were a piece of worke very laborious neither can such barbarous names in which there lieth couched great significancie succinct brevitie and some ambiguitie be easily delivered in another tongue But considering that most of them bee compounded and that of few simples I will explaine the said simples that the significations of the compound implying all the osse and presage of good lucke wished-for and happie fortune may evidently appeare and that we may throughly perceive there is among all nations that Orthotes of names which Plato speaketh of AEL EAL and AL in names compounded like as 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Greeke compositions signifieth Al or Wholly Hereupon Aelwin is as much as Wholly or Fully Victor Albert All bright and dread wholly dread or reverend Alfred Altogether Pacificall or peacefull Whereunto in some sort are correspondent in Greeke Pammachius Pancratius Pamphilius c. AELF which with varietie of Dialect is pronounced Vlf Wolph Hulph Hilp Helfe and in these daies Helpe carrieth in it a signification of Helpe or Aide as for example Aelfwin that is a victorious aide Aelfwold a helpfull Governour Aelfgiva she that giveth helpe according to which are these Greeke names Boetius Symmachus Epicurus ARD betokeneth naturall disposition or towardnesse as Godard is as much as Divine towardlinesse or inclination Reinard Sincere disposition Giffard a franke and liberall nature Bernard a filiall and sonne-like affection ATHEL Adel and Ethel import Noble Thus Aethelred that is Noble in counsell Aethelard a noble nature or disposition Aethelbert famously Noble Ethelward a noble Tutor or Protectour BERT the same that with us at this day Bright and in Latin Illustris and clarus that is Splendent and cleare so Ecbert that is Bright and shining for ever Sigbert a splendent conquerour as also shee whom the Germans named Bertha the Greeke called Eudoxia as Luitprandus witnesseth And of this sort were Phaedrus Epiphanius Photius Lampridius among the Greekes Fulgentius and Illustrius c. among the Latins BALD with the people of the North parts is the same that Audax in Latine that is Bold as Jornandes sheweth a word that yet is not growne out of use So Baldwin and by inversion Winbald is the same that Bold Victour Ethelbald Nobly bold Eadbald Happily bold Unto which are consonant Thraseas Thrasimachus and Thrasibulus in Greeke c. KEN and KIN import Kinsfolke as Kinulph an helpe to Kinsfolke Kinhelm a Defender of his kin Kinburg a defence to kinred Kinric powerfull in or to kinsfolke CVTH beareth with it a signification of skill and cunning so Cuthwin that is a skilfull or politicke Conquerour
Earles of Anjou Poictou Maine and Bulloigne and unto them he promiseth faire Lands and possessions in England Philip also the French King he goeth unto and solliciteth voluntarily promising in case he aided him to become his vassall and leege man and for England to take the oath of fealtie unto him But it being thought nothing good for the state of France that the Duke of Normandie who already was not so pliable and obedient to the French King as he ought should bee bettered in his state by the addition of England for the power of neighbour potentates is alwaies suspected of Princes so far was the King from yeelding any helpe that he disswaded him rather from invading England But by no meanes could the Duke be reclaimed from his enterprise nay much more encouraged he was now and set on being once backed with warrant from Alexander the Bishop of Rome for even now began the Pope to usurpe authority over Princes who allowing of his cause and quarrell had sent unto him a sacred and hallowed banner as a luckie fore-token of gaining both the victory and Kingdome yea and with all cursed whosoever should oppose themselves against him He assembled therefore all the forces he could possibly raise and gathered together a mighty navie before the Towne of Saint Valeries which standeth upon the mouth of the river Some where he lay a long time windbound For the procurement whereof with many a vow he importuned Saint Valeric the patron-Saint of the Towne and heaped upon him a number of gifts and oblations Harold who with his forces had waited very long in vaine for his comming determined to dissolve his armie to withdraw his navie and to leave the sea-coast both for that he was compelled thereto for want of provision as also because the Earle of Flanders had written unto him that William would not stirre that yeere whom he soone beleeved as thinking that the time of the yeere was such as had locked up the seas and barred all navigation forasmuch as the autumnall Aequinox was neere Whiles he thus deviseth with himselfe driven he was upon an unexpected necessity of new warre to call backe his armie for Harold surnamed the Hard and Harfager king of Norway who had practised piracie in the North parts of Britaine and already subdued the Isles of Orknes being by Tosto sollicited and called forth in hope of the Kingdome of England arrived within the mouth of the river Tine with a fleet of 500. flibotes or thereabout where Tosto also came and joined his owne fleet When they had a good while forraged and spoiled the countrey heere they weighed anchor and sailing along the coast of Yorkshire put into Humbre and there began to commit outrages with all manner of hostility For the repressing of whom the two Earles Edwin and Morcar led forth a power of soldiers whom they had raised suddainly and in tumultuary haste but they not able to abide the violent charge of the Norwegians fled for the most part as fast as they could and together with the Earles made shift to escape howbeit many of them passing over the river Ouse were swallowed up with the waves thereof The Norwegianâ—â—hen goe in hand to lay siege unto the Citie of Yorke which straight waies they get by surrender hostages being given on both sides But after some few dayes King Harold having gathered his whole power from all parts together speedeth him to Yorke and from thence marcheth against the Norwegians who lay encamped strongly in a most safe place for backed they were with the Ocean flanked on the left hand with Humber wherein their fleet rid at anchor and had for their defence on the right side and afront the river Derwent Howbeit King Harold couragiously setteth upon them where first there was a cruell conflict at the Bridge standing over the river Darwent which one Norwegian souldier by report made good for a time against the whole armie of the Englishmen and held out so long untill he was shot through with a dart and died after this continued the battell a good while within the very campe fought with equall valour and indifferent fortune on both sides But in the end the Norwegians were disarraied and scattered and in the midst of the battell Harold himselfe King of the Norwegians and Tosto with the greater part of the Armie lost their lives Vpon this Victorie there fell unto King Harold an exceeding rich bootie a great masse both of gold and silver and that huge Armado except twentie small Barques onely which he granted unto Paul Earle of Orkney and Olave the Sonne of Harold who was slaine for to carry away those that were hurt taking their oath first that from thence forward they should not attempt any hostilitie agaist England This happie victorie encourged Harold and set him aloft now he thought that he should bee a terrour yea to the Normans howsoever hee grew odious unto his owne people because hee had not divided the spoile among his souldiers Howbeit wholly hee employed himselfe to reforme the disordered state of the countrey which in this part was pittifully out of frame and lay neglected Meane while Willam Duke of Normandie finding a fit season for his purpose about the end of September weighed anchor and launched forth then with a gentle gale of winde he sailed with all his shipping and arrived at Pevensey in Sussex where being landed upon the naked shore for to cut off all hope of return from his men he did set fire on his ships and having erected a fortresse there for his men to retire thither in safetie forward he marcheth to Hastings where also he raised another strong hold and placed therein a garrison Now by this time he maketh proclamation declaring the causes of this warre namely to revenge the death of Alfred his Cousin whom together with many Normans Godwin the Father of Harold had murthered Item to bee avenged of the wrongs that Harold had done who when he had banished Robert Archbishop of Canterburie even then by intrusion entred upon the Kingdome of England now pertaining to him treading under foot the religious respect of his oath Howbeit by an Edict he straightly charged his souldiers not in hostile manner to spoile the English men Newes hereof in all hast was brought to King Harold who by all meanes thinking it good to use prevention and as spedily as might be to encounter the Duke sendeth out his messengers every way calleth earnestly upon his subjects to continue in their faithfull allegiance assembleth all his forces in every place and with great journies hasteneth to London where there presented himselfe unto him an Embassadour from Duke William but as he made many words in claiming the Kingdom Harold in a furious fit of anger and indignation went within a little of laying violent hands upon the very person of the Embassadour For a hard matter it was to bereave a fresh Victour
Northamptonshire Lincolneshire Huntingdonshire Bedfordshire Buckinghamshire Oxenfordshire Staffordshire Derbieshire Salop or Shropshire Nottinghamshire Chester or Cheshire The other part of Hertfordshire YEt was not England when the Heptarchie flourished thus divided into Counties for so they be commonly called but into certaine small regions with their Hides which out of an old fragment that I had of Francis Tate a gentleman most conversant in the Antiquitie of our Law I have heere put downe But it containeth that country onely which lieth on this side Humber Myrcna containeth 30000. Hides Woken-setna 7000. hides Westerna 7000. hides Pec-setna 1200. hides Elmed-setna 600. hides Lindes-farona 7000. hides Suth-Gyrwa 600. hides North-Gyrwa 600. hides East-Wixna 300. hides West-Wixna 600. hides Spalda 600. hides Wigesta 900. hides Herefinna 1200. hides Sweordora 300. hides Eyfla 300. hides Wicca 300. hides Wight-gora 600 hides Nox gaga 5000. hides Oht gaga 2000. hides Hwynca 7000. hides Ciltern-setna 4000. hides Hendrica 3000. hides Vnecung-ga 1200. hides Aroseatna 600. hides Fearfinga 300. hides Belmiga 600. hides Witherigga 600. hides East-willa 600. hides West-willa 600. hides East-Engle 30000. hides East-Sexena 7000. hides Cant-warena 15000. hides Suth-Sexena 7000. hides West-Sexena 100000. hides Although some of these names may at the first sight be discovered yet others of them a man shall hardly picke out although hee studie upon them and they require one I professe it of much sharper wit and quicker insight than my selfe to guesse what they should meane Afterwards when Aelfred was sole Monarch like as the Germans our ancestors as Tacitus witnesseth kept courts and ministred justice in every Territorie and town and had a Hundred men out of the the Common people as companions and assistants to performe this function even so to use the words of ingulphus of Crowland He first divided England into Counties for that the neighbour Inhabitants after the example and under colour of the Danes committed outrages and robberies Besides hee caused the Counties to be parted into Centuries that is Hundreds and Decimes that is Tithings and commandded withall that every Homeling or naturall Inhabitant should bee in some one Hundred and Tithing Hee divided also the governours of the Provinces who before were called Vice-Domini that is Vice-Lords into two offices to wit Iudges now Iustices and Vice-Comites that is Sheriffes which still retaine the same name By whose care and industrie peace so much flourished within short space through the whole Province that had a way-faring man let fall in the fields or common highwaies a summe of money how great soever it had beene if he returned thither the next morning or a moneth after he might bee sure to see it there safe and untouched Which our Historiographer of Malmesburie will declare unto you more at large By occasion saith he and example of the Barbarians that is Danes the proper and naturall Inhabitants also were very greedy of spoile so that no man could passe to and fro in safety without weapons for his defence Aelfred therefore ordained Centuries which they terme Hundreds and Decimes which they call Tithings that every English m living under law as a liege subject should bee within one Hundred and Tithing or another And if a man were accused of any transgression hee should bring in straightwaies some one out of the same Hundred and Tithing that would bee bound for his appearance to answer the law but he that could not find such a surety should abide the severity of the Lawes But in case any man standing thus accused either before or after suretiship fled then all that Hundred and Tithing incurred a mulct or fine to bee imposed by the King By this device he brought peace into the Country so as along the common causies and highwaies where they crossed one another he commanded bracelets of gold to be hanged up to delude the greedinesse of passengers whiles there was no man that durst take thē away But these Hundreds be in some places of the realme called Wapentaches if you would know the reason therof I wil tel you it out of the laws of Edward the Confessor When a man received the government of a Wapentach upon a certaine day appointed in the place where they were wont to assemble all the elder sort met together and expected him and as hee alighted from his horse rose up unto him and did him reverence Then he setting his speare upright received of them all according to the custome a covenant of Association For as many as came with their speares touched his speare and thus they assured themselves by touching of weapons in peaceable manner For armes in English they call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is as much as to confirme or establish as if this were a comfirmation of weapons or to speak more significantly and expresly according to the English tongue Wepentac is the touching of weapons For 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 soundeth as much as armes 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is touching There were besides other governments and jurisdictions above Wepantaches which they called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for that this was the third part of a Province And the rulers over those were termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Before these officers were brought those causes that could not be determined in the Wapentachs And so that which the Englishmen named a Hundred these termed a Wapentach And that which in English they called three or foure Hundreds these named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Howbeit in some Provinces they called that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which these terme Trihing and that which could not be decided and ended in a 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 was brought into the Schyre These Counties which you may properly and in Latine call either Conventus or Pagos we by a peculiar terme name Shires of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Saxon word which signifieth to part or divide and at the first division were there in all but thirtie two For in the yeare after Christs nativitie 1016. whiles Etheldred raigned the Chronicle of Malmesburie reporteth there was no more For thus writeth hee in the life of the said Etheldred The Danes at this time when there bee reckoned in England thirty two Shires invaded 16. of them And in those daies according to the varietie of lawes these counties or shires were divided For the lawes of England were distinguished into three sorts to wit those of the West-Saxons which they called West-Saxenlage those of the Danes named Denelage and those of the Mercians termed Merchenlage To the law of the West-Saxons belonged nine counties to wit Kent Sussex Suthrie Berkshire Hantshire or Southampton Wiltshire Sommersetshire Dorsetshire and Denshire To the Danes law appertained 15. Counties namely Yorkeshire Darbyshire Nottinghamshire Leicestershire Lincolnshire Northamptonshire Bedfordshire Buckinghamshire Hertfordshire Essex Middlesex Northfolk Suffolk Cambridgeshire Huntingdonshire The eight remaining followed the law of the Mercians there were
used in old time before they tooke any enterprize in hand God grant me gracious good speed In the severall discourses of every of them I will declare as plainely and as briefly as I can who were their ancient Inhabitants what is the reason of their names how they are bounded what is the nature of the soile what places of antiquitie and good account are therein what Dukes likewise or Earles have beene in each one since the Norman Conquest And in this succession of Earles to confesse frankly by whom I have taken profit I doe willingly and justly acknowledge that Thomas Talbot a most diligent Clerke in the Records of the Tower a man of singular skill in our antiquities hath given me much light And begin I will at the farthest parts in the West that is to say at Cornwall and so passe over the other countries in order imitating herein Strabo Ptolomee and the most ancient Geographers who alwaies begin their description in the Westerne countries as being first from the Meridian DANMONII THat Region which according to the Geographers is the first of all Britaine and growing straiter still and narrower shooteth out farthest into the West and hath on the North side the Severne-Sea on the South the British and on the West the Vergivian or Westerne Ocean beating upon it was in ancient time inhabited by those Britaines whom Solinus called DVNMONII Ptolomee DAMNONII or as we find in some other copies more truely DANMONII Which name if it bee not derived from those ever-continuing mines of tinne in this tract which the Britans terme Moina may seeme to come of the dwelling there under hils For their habitation all over this Country is somewhat low and in valleys which manner of dwelling is called in the British tongue Dan-munith in which sense also the Province next adjoyning in like respect is at this day named by the Britans Duffneint that is to say Low valleys Now whether the OSTIDAMNII called also OSTAEI and OSTIONES of whom Strabo maketh mention out of Pithaeas of Marfiles be our Danmonij I wish the studious searchers of Antiquity would weigh with themselves and examine somewhat more diligently For seated they were by their report in the farthest parts of Europe toward the West Ocean over against Spaine not farre from the Isle Vxantissa now called Vshant Which particulars every one doe very well and in each point agree unto this Region of our Danmonij And seeing that those Ostiones be called by Artemidorus COSSINI as Stephanus in his Cities seemeth to note I wish likewise they would consider because these people are termed also Corini whether in stead of COSSINI we are not to read CORINI For we read Fusij for Furij and Valesij for Valerij And surely the Geographers have not so much as a glimps where to seeke these Ostidamnij and Cossini by the westerne Sea if they be hence excluded But the Country of this nation is at this day divided into two parts knowne by later names of Cornwall and Denshire whereof wee will speake in order CORNWALL COrnwall which also by later Writers is called Cornubia in Latin of all Britaine doth beare most Westward and is inhabited by that remnant of Britans which Marinus Scotus calleth Occidentales Britones that is Britaines of the West parts who in the British tongue for as yet they have not lost their ancient language name it Kernaw because it waxeth smaller and smaller in manner of an horne and runneth forth into the Sea with little promontories as they were hornes on every side For the Britaines call an horne Corn and hornes Kern in the plurall number although others would have Cornwall to take the name of one Corineus I know not what Companion of Brutus and doe call it Corinea according to this verse of a fabulous Poet Pars Corinea datur Corinaeo de duce nomen Patria deque viro gens Corinensis habet To Captaine Corineus part was given to hold by right Of him both coast Corinea and people Cornish height But no strange matter it is if a man search Antiquities for many places to have their denominations given them of such kind of scite as this In Crete and Taurica Chersonessus there bee promontories termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Rams Foreheads because they shoote forth into the sea after the fashion of Rams hornes Semblably Cyprus was of the Greekes in old time called Cerastis for that it butteth on the sea with promontories bearing out like hornes so that it is no marvell if the coast bee called Kernaw and Corn crookening inward as it doth like unto an horne and having divers smal capes and points sticking out as it were hornes Whereupon when in the heat of the Saxons warre many Britans retired themselves into this tract trusting to the naturall strength of the place for they knew that the waies by land were hard enough to bee passed through by reason of mountaines and crossed in divers places with armes of the Sea that sailing likewise there was combersome because the places were unknowne the Saxon being Conquerour who called all forraine things and aliens or strangers in their language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 named the Inhabitants hereof 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Hereof sprang the Latin name Cornwallia and in the later age Cornubia and in some writers Occidua Wallia So farre it is off that it should be called Cornwallia of the Gaules that conquered it which some there bee that in flatterie of the French name and nation would uphold who if they were as quicke-sighted at home as they bee curious abroad might find that their Britaine lying upon the sea coast opposite to this country is so named of our Britan and that Cornovaille no small territorie therein which speaketh the same language that our Cornishmen doe tooke name of our countrey-men that passed over hence to dwell there For as these our Britaines of the West parts aided the Armorici of Gaule inhabiting in that tract in their warres against Caesar upon which occasion hee pretended a quarrell to invade Britaine and they afterwards comming thither as wee said before changed the name of Armorici and called it Britaine so in the foregoing ages readie they were and ever at hand to helpe those Britaines their country-men against the French and during the tempestuous troubles of the Danish warre some of them put over thither also and are thought to have left this name of Cornovaille behind them there But to leave that Cornovaille This our Cornwall as if nature made amends and recompence for the incroching in of the sea is for the most part raised on high with mountaines being in the vallies betweene of an indifferent glebe with which the Sea weede or reit commonly called Orewood and a certaine kind of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and battle that it is incredible The Sea coast is beautified with very many
Townes able to set out a great fleet of Ships the inland parts have rich and plenteous mines of tinne For there is digged out of them wonderfull store of tinne yielding exceeding much profit and commoditie where are made houshold pewter vessels which are used throughout many parts of Europe in service of the table and for their glittering brightnesse compared with silver plate The Inhabitants doe discover these mines by certaine tinne-stones lying on the face of the ground which they call Shoad being somewhat smooth and round Of these Mines or tinne-workes there be two kinds the one they call Lode-workes the other Stream-workes This lieth in lower grounds when by trenching they follow the veines of tinne and turne aside now and then the streames of water comming in their way that other is in higher places when as upon the hils they dig very deepe pits which they call Shafts and doe undermine In working both waies there is seen wonderfull wit and skill as well in draining of waters aside and reducing them into one streame as in the underbuilding pinning and propping up of their pits to passe over with silence their devices of breaking stamping drying crasing washing melting and fining the mettall than which there cannot be more cunning shewed There are also two sorts of Tinne Blacke tinne which is tinne-ore broken and washed but not yet founded into mettall and white tinne that is molten into mettall and that is either soft tinne which is best merchantable or hard tinne lesse merchantable That the ancient Britans practised these tinne-works to omit Timaeus the Historian in Plinie who reporteth That the Britans fetched tinne out of the Isle Icta in wicker boats covered and stitched about with leather appeareth for certaine out of Diodorus Siculus who flourished under Augustus Caesar. For hee writeth that the Britans who Inhabited this part digged tinne out of stonie ground and at a low water carried the same in carts to certaine Ilands adjoyning From whence Merchants transported it by ships into Gaule and from thence conveied the same upon horses within thirtie daies unto the spring-heads of the river Eridanus or else to the citie Narbone as it were to a Mart. Aethicus also who ever hee was that unworthily beareth title to be interpreted by S. Hierome out of the Sclavonian tongue insinuateth the very same and saith That hee delivered rules and precepts to these Tinne-workers But it seemeth that the English-Saxons neglected it altogether or to have used the workmanship and labour of Arabians or Saracens For the Inhabitants in their language terme the mines forlet and given over Attal Sarisin that is the leavings of the Saracens if they did meane by that name the ancient Panims After the comming in of the Normans the Earles of Cornwal gathered great riches out of these mines and especially Richard brother to King Henrie the Third and no marvell sith that in those daies Europe had tinne from no other place For the incursions of the Mores had stopped up the tinne mines of Spaine and as for the tinne veines in Germanie which are in Misnia and Bohemia they were not as yet knowen and those verily not discovered before the yeere after Christs nativitie 1240. For then as a writer of that age recordeth was tinne mett all found in Germanie by a certain Cornishman driven out of his native soile to the great losse and hindrance of Richard Earle of Cornwal This Richard began to make ordinances for these tin-works and afterward Edmund his sonne granted a Charter and certain liberties and withall prescribed certaine Lawes concerning the same which hee ratified or strengthened under his seale and imposed a tribute or rent upon tin to be answered unto the Earls These liberties priviledges and lawes King Edward the Third did afterwards confirme and augment The whole common-wealth of those Tinners and workmen as it were one bodie hee divided into foure quarters which of the places they call Foy-more Black-more Trewarnaile and Penwith Over them all hee ordained a Warden called L. Warden of the Stanniers of Stannum that is Tinne who giveth judgement as well according to equitie and conscience as Law and appointed to every quarter their Stewards who once every iij. weeks every one in his severall quarter minister justice in causes personall betweene Tinner and Tinner and betweene Tinner and Forrainer except in causes of land life or member From whom there lieth an appeale to the Lord Warden from him to the Duke from the Duke to the King In matters of moment there are by the Warden generall Parliaments or severall assemblies summoned whereunto Iurats are sent out of every Stannarie whose constitutions do bind them As for those that deale with tinne they are of foure sorts the owners of the soile the adventurers the merchants or regraters and the labourers called the Spadiards of their Spade who poore men are pitifully out-eaten by usurious contracts But the Kings of England and Dukes of Cornwall in their times have reserved to themselves a praeemption of tin by the opinion of the learned in the Law as well in regard of the proprietie as being chiefe Lords and Proprietaries as of their royall prerogative Lest the tribute or rent imposed should be embezelled and the Dukes of Cornwall defrauded unto whom by the old custome for every thousand pound waight of tinne there is paid forty shillings it is by a Law provided that all the tin which is cast wrought be brought to one of the foure appointed townes where twice in the yeere it is weighed and signed with a stampe they call it Coinage and the said impost according paid neither is it lawfull for any man before that to sell or send it abroad under forfeiture of their tin And now only tin is here found but therewith also gold and silver yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed anglewise smoothed also by nature it selfe whereof some are as big as walnuts and inferiour to the Orient Diamonds in blacknesse and hardnesse only Moreover there is found Eryngium that is Sea Holly growing most abundantly every where along the shore Furthermore so plentifull is this countrey of graine although not without great toile of the husbandman that it hath not onely sufficient to maintaine it selfe but also affoordeth often times great store of corne into Spaine Besides a most rich revenue and commoditie they have by those little fishes that they call Pilchards which swarming as one would say in mighty great skuls about the shores from Iuly unto November are there taken garbaged salted hanged in the smoake laied up pressed and by infinite numbers carried over into France Spaine and Italie unto which countreys they be very good chaffer and right welcome merchandise and are there named Fumados Whereupon Michael a Cornish Poet and of Rhymers in his time the chiefe in his Satyre against Henrie of Aurenches Archpoet to King Henrie the Third because he had unreverently plaied upon Cornishmen as if
against the watch-Towre of Britaine For no other place of this Iland looketh directly to Spaine Upon it there standeth now a little village named S. Buriens in old time Eglis Buriens that is The Church of Buriena or Beriena consecrated to Buriena a religious Irish woman For this nation alwaies honoured Irish Saints as tutelar patrons of their owne so all their Towns in manner they have consecrated unto them This village King Athelstan as the report goeth granted to be a priviledged place or Sanctuarie what time as he arrived as Conquerour out of the Iles of Sylly True it is that he built heere a Church and that under William the Conquerour there was heere a Colledge of Chanons unto whom the territorie adjoyning belonged Neere unto this in a place which they call Biscaw Woune are to bee seene nineteene stones set in a round circle distant every one about twelve foote from the other and in the very center there is one pitched far higher and greater than the rest This was some Trophee or monument of victorie erected by the Romans as probably may bee conjectured under the later Emperours or else by Athelstan the Saxon when he had subdued the Cornish-men and brought them under his dominion As the shore fetcheth a compasse by little and little from hence Southward it letteth in a bay or creeke of the Sea in manner of a Crescent which they call Mounts-bay wherein as the common speech goeth the Ocean by rushing with a violent force drowned the land Vpon this lieth Mousehole in the British tongue Port Inis that is The Haven of the Iland For which Henry of Ticis a Baron in his time and Lord of Alwerton and Tiwernel in this Country obtained of King Edward the First the grant to have a market there Likewise there is seated upon this Bay Pen-sans that is The Cape or Head of Saints or as some thinke Sands a prety market Towne within a little whereof is that famous stone Main-Amber which being a great Rock advanced upon some other of meaner size with so equall a counterpeize a man may stir with the push of his finger but to remove it quite out of his place a great number of men are not able as also Merkin that is Iupiters market because Thursday anciently dedicated to Iupiters is their market day a dangerous rode for ships And in the very angle and corner it selfe S. Michaels mount which gave name unto the foresaid Bay sometime called Dinsol as wee find in the booke of Landaffe the Inhabitants name it Careg Cowse that is The hoary Crag or Rock the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Michaels place as Master Laurence Noel a man of good note for his singular learning and who was the first in our age that brought into ure againe and revived the language of our ancestours the Saxons which through disuse lay sorlet and buried in oblivion hath well observed This Rocke is of a good height and craggy compassed round about with water so oft as it is floud but at every ebbe joyned to the main-land so that they say of it It is land and Iland twice a day For which cause Iohn Earle of Oxford not many yeeres ago presuming upon the strength of the place chose it for his chiefest defence when he raised war against King Edward the Fourth and valiantly held the same but with no good successe For his souldiers being assailed by the Kings forces straight waies yeelded In the very top heereof within the Fortresse there was a Chappell consecrated to S. Michael the Archangell where William Earle of Cornwall and Moriton who by the bounteous gift of King William the First had great lands large possessions in this tract built a Cell for one or two monks who avouched that S. Michael appeared in that mount which apparition or the like the Italians challenge to their hill Garganus and the Frenchmen likewise to their Michaels mount in Normandie At the foote of this mountaine within the memorie of our Fathers whiles men were digging up of tin they found Spear-heads axes and swords of brasse wrapped in linnen such as were sometimes found within the forrest Hercinia in Germanie and not long since in our Wales For evident it is by the monuments of ancient Writers that the Greeks the Cimbrians and Britans used brazen weapons although the wounds given with brasse bee lesse hurtfull as in which mettall there is a medicinable vertue to heale according as Macrobius reporteth out of Aristotle But happily that age was not so cunning in devising meanes to mischiefe and murthers as ours is In the rocks underneath as also along the shore every where breedeth the Pyrrhecorax a kind of crow with bill and feet red and not as Plinie thought proper to the Alpes onely This bird the inhabitants have found to be an Incendiarie and theevish beside For oftentimes it secretly conveieth fire-sticks setting their houses a fire and as closely filcheth and hideth little peeces of money In this place the countrey is most narrow and groweth as it were into an Isthmus for it is scarse foure miles over from hence to the Severn or upper sea A little above this mount there openeth a Creeke of good bredth called of the mount Mountsbay a most safe rode and harbour for ships when the South and Southeast winds are aloft and bluster at a mid ebbe and returne of the Sea six or seven fathom deepe More toward the East ariseth Godolcan hill right famous for plentifull veines of tin they call it now Godolphin but much more renowned in regard of the Lords thereof bearing the same name who with their vertues have equalled the ancientnesse of that house and linage But that name in the Cornish language came of A white Aegle and this family hath anciently borne for their armes in a shield Gules an Aegle displaied Argent betweene three Flower-deluces of the same id est Argent likewise in a shield Gules From S. Michaels mount Southward immediatly there is thrust forth a bi-land or demi-Ile at the very entrie whereof Heilston sheweth it selfe called in their country language Hellas by reason of the salt water flowing thereto a Towne of great resort for their priviledge of marking and coinage of tin Under which by the confluence and meeting of many waters there is made a lake two miles in length named Loo poole divided from the Sea by a narrow banke running betweene which whensoever it is by the violence of waves broken thorow a wonderfull roring of waters is heard far and neere all over the countrey adjoining And not far from thence there is to be seene a militarie fense or rampier of a large compasse built of stones heaped together and laid without mortar they call it in their tongue Earth of which sort there be others heere and there raised as I verily beleeve in the Danish warre Neither is it unlike to
and Dukes of Cornwall as we may see in the Inquisitions When the Liver is past this Castle neere unto Saltash sometimes Esse the habitation in old times of the Valtorts and now a Towne well replenished with Merchants and endowed with many priviledges it runneth into the river Tamar the bound of the whole countrey where at the East-side Mont-Edgecombe the seat of that ancient family of the Edgecombs sited most pleasantly hath a prospect into an haven underneath it full of winding creekes Next unto which is Anthony a Towne memorable for the elegant building thereof as also for a fish poole that letteth in the Ocean and yeeldeth sea-fish for profit and pleasure both but more memorable it is for the Lord thereof Richard Carew who so maintaineth his place and estate left unto him by his ancestors as that in ornaments of vertues he surmounteth them Hitherto we have surveied the South coast now let us take a view of the Northern also The Northern-shore from the very lands end having for a great length huge banks of sand driven upon heapes against it shooteth out first to a Towne running into the sea with a long ridge like a tongue called S. Iies taking the name of one Iia an Irish woman that lived heere in great holinesse for ancieÌ„tly it was named Pendinas And from her the Bay underneath into which the little river Haile falleth hath likewise received the name for the Mariners call it S. Iies Bay As for the Towne it selfe it is now very small For the North west wind that playes the tyrant in this coast by drifts of sand hath so beaten upon it that from thence it is translated and removed From hence the countrey on both sides still Eastward waxeth broader and the Northern shore with a more crooked winding holdeth on North-east as far as Padstow neither all that way along hath it any thing savouring of antiquity save onely a Chappell built in the sands to the honor of S. Piran who being likewise an Irish Saint resteth heere entombed unto whose Sanctitie a certaine vaine writer in his childish folly hath ascribed this miracle that with three kine of his owne he fed ten Kings of Ireland and their armies eight dayes together also that hee raised from death to life both pigs and men Then farther from the shore is seated S. Columbs a little mercate Towne consecrated to the memoriall of Columba a right devout woman and a martyr not of Columban the Scot as now I am given to understand for certaine out of her life Neere unto which but more to the sea-ward Lhanheton sheweth it selfe the seat of the Arondels a familie of Knights degree who for their faire lands and large possessions were not long since called the Great Arondels In some places they are written in Latin De Hirundine and not amisse if my judgement be ought For Hirundo that is a Swallow is named Arondell in French and iâ— a shield sables they beare for their armes six Swallowes argent Certes a very ancient and renowned house this is spreading far and neere the branches of their kinred and affinity unto the name and coat-armour whereof William Brito a Poet alluded when as he describeth a valiant warriour out of this familie flying as it were upon William of Bar a French noble man and assailing him about the yeere of our Lord 1170. in these termes Hirundelae velocior alite quae dat Hoc agnomen ei fert cujus in aegide signum Se rapit agminibus medijs clypeoque mâ—enti Quem sibi Guilielmus laeva praetenderat ulna Immergit validam praeacutae cuspidis hastam more swift than bird hight Arondell That giv's him name and in his shield of armes emblazoned well He rides amid the armed troupes and with his speare in rest The staffe was strong the point right sharpe runs full upon the brest Of Sir Guillaum and pierceth through his bright and glittering shield Which on left arme he for defence against him stoutly held Within a little hereof there is a double rampire intrenched upon the pitch of an hill with a causey leading thereto named Castellan Denis that is The Danes Campe because the Danes when they preyed upon the coasts of England encamped themselves there like as they did in other places of this tract Nor farre from hence the river Alan which also is called Camb-alan and Camel of the crooked windings reaches that it makes in his course for so Cam with them doth signifie runneth gently into the upper sea which river at the very mouth thereof hath Padstow a pretty market towne so called shorâ— for Petroekstow as we read in the Histories of Saints of one Petrocch a Britan canonized a Saint by the people who spent his daies here in the service of God whereas before time it had the name of Loderic and Laffenac The site of this Town is very commodious for traffique in Ireland to which men may easily saile in foure and twentie houres And much beautified it is with faire and goodly houses adjoyning thereto in manner of a Castle built by N. Prideaux a Gentleman of ancient gentry in those West parts At the Spring-head of this river Alan standeth the little village Camelford otherwise Gaffelford Leland Judgeth it was in old time called Kamblan who writeth also That King Arthur our Hector was there slaine For as hee recordeth peeces of armour rings horse-harnesse of brasse are otherwhiles digged up and turned out of the ground by husbandmen and the common fame that continued so many ages together reporteth that there was a notable battell fought in this place There are also certaine verses in an unknowne Poet living in the middle time of Cambula flowing with bloud shed in a battell of Arthur against Mordred which I will not thinke much of my labour to put downe because they may seeme to have beene written in no bad Poeticall vaine Naturâ—m Cambula fontis Mutatam stupet esse sui transcendit inundans Sanguineus torrens ripas volvit in aequor Corpora caesorum plures natare videres Et petere aexilium quos undis vita reliquit Then Cambula was sore agast the nature chang'd to see Of his spring-head for now the streame by this time gan to bee All mixt with bloud which swelling high the banks doth overflow And carry downe the bodies slaine into the sea below There might one see how many a man that swum and helpe did crave Was lost among the billowes strong and water was their grave And in very deed not to deny this of Arthur I have read in Marianus that the Britans and Saxons fought in this place a bloudy battell in the yeere of our Lord 8â—0 so that this may seeme a place consecrated unto Mars And if it be true that Arthur here died the same coast was destined unto him for his death as for his birth For on the shore hard by standeth Tindagium
the native place of that great Arthur partly upon a little ridge putting forth as it were a tongue and partly within an Iland having both of them sometime a bridge betweene They call it at this day Tindagel beeing now a glorious ruine onely in times past a stately Castle of which a late Poet hath thus written Est locus Abrini finnoso littore ponti Rupe situs media refluus quem circuit astus Fulminat hic latâ— turritâ— vertice castrum Nomine Tindagium veteres dixere Corini There is a place within the winding shore of Severne Sea On mids a rocke about whose foote the tides turne-keeping play A Towry-topped Castle here farre thundreth over all Which Cornishmen by ancient name Tindagel Castle call A long discourse it would aske to declare here out of Geffries history how Uther Pendragon King of Britaine within this Castle became enamoured upon the wife of Gorlois Prince of Cornwall and how by Magick slights and delusions taking the shape of her husband upon him dishonourably violated the Ladie his wife and of her begat the said renowned Arthur It may suffice if I doe but alleage the verses of our Poet Iohn Havillan Facie dum falsus adulter Tindagel irrupit nec amoris Pendragon astum Vincit omnificas Merlini consulit artes Mentiturque ducis habitus rege latente Induit absentis praesentia Gorlois ora Whiles Pendragon that could not quench his flaming heats of love But beare a mind adult'rous still by meanes brake in above To Tindagel disguis'd in face by Merlin taught thereto By magicke and inchauntments strange which all such feats could doe Duke Gorloes habite absent then that was he tooke by guile But presence of the King in place he did conceale the while This Uther Pendragon verily was a Prince flourishing in Marâ—iall feats who valiantly upheld the decaying state of his countrey against the English Saxons But whether came from him That Royall Banner in England having the portraict of a Dragon with a golden head whereof of neighbour nations have had experience and which in far Lands beyond sea was under King Richard the First terrible to the Panims I dare not avouch I would beleeve rather it was received from the Romans who a long time used the Eagle after that Marius had rejected the Ensignes of a Wolfe of Minotaurus of an Horse c. And in the end under the latter Emperors tooke them to the Dragon Whereupon Claudianus writeth thus Hij picta Draconum Calla levant The banners these advance aloft With speckled necks of Dragons wrought And Nemesianus Signa micant sinuatque truces levis aura Dracones Their Ensignes shine and Dragons fell that therein pictur'd show Wave to and fro with whiffes of wind as it doth gently blow And Hoveden sheweth that the West Saxon Kings used to carrie in their Banners the Dragon As for another Banner of the English which Beda called Tufa as also the Danes Reafan I will say nothing of them in this place for feare I may seeme to have digressed too farre from my purpose Betweene Padstow and Tindagel inwardly there extendeth a fruitfull veine and therein flourish the families of Roscarrock Carnsew Penkevell Cavell Pencavell of ancient name and great respect in this coast Forward still Eastward on the same coast which is open barren and destitute of woods there butteth upon the sea Botereaux Castle corruptly by the common people called Boscastle built by the Lords Botereaux who gave for their armes three Buffones toads sable in a shield Argent William Botereaux was the first famous man of honour in this familie who married Alice the daughter of Robert Corbet whose sister was Paramour to King Henrie the First of whom hee begat Reginald Earle of Cornwall From this William there flourished eleven successively in order But Margaret the onely daughter and sole heire of the last was wedded unto Robert Hungerford by whose posteritie the Inheritance is devolved upon the familie of the Hastings which inheritance was augmented and became more honourable by marriages that those of Botereaux contracted with the heires of the Noble houses De Moeles S. Laud commonly called S. Lo and Thweng From hence the Land shooting forth into the Sea extendeth it selfe so farre northward that the countrey carrieth here full three and twenty miles in breadth betweene the two seas which hitherto went on still drawen after a sort together into a narrow streit In this greatest breadth of it standeth Stow upon the sea-side the ancient habitation of the Creenvils which verily for Antiquitie and Noblenesse of birth is a famous house out of which one Richard in the raigne of William Rufus was for his valour much renowned among those worthy Knights that subdued Glamorganshire in Wales and another of late daies surnamed likewise Richard for his magnanimitie surpassing the Nobilitie of his bloud fighting most valiantly against the Spaniards at the Ilands of Tercera lost his life as I shall shew more fully in my Annals To this Stratton lieth close to a market Towne of no meane name amongst the neighbours for their gardens and good garlicke and next unto it Lancels a faire new seat of that old family de Calvo monte or Chaumond The river TAMARA now TAMAR shewing his head here not farre from the northren shore taketh his course with a swift running streame southward encreased with the channels of many rivelets hard by TAMARA a Towne mentioned by Ptolomee now called Tamerton by Tamar an ancient Mannour of the Trevilions to whom by marriage the Inheritance of Walesborough and Ralegh of Netlested descended also by Lanstuphadon that is Saint Stephens commonly and contractly Launston which standeth farther off from his banke a proper little Towne this is situate upon the pitch of a prettie hill which of two Burgards Dunevet and Newport is growne as it were into one Burgh At the first comming of the Normans William Earle of Moriton built a Castle there and had a Colledge of Chanons or Secular Priests as appeareth out of Domesday book wherein it is named Launstaveton of that Colledge no doubt built in the honour of Saint Stephen which Reginald Earle of Cornwall about the yeere of our Lord 1150 turned into a monasterie Against which pious worke of his the Bishops of Excester carried away over much and seduced with humane and private affection were verie maliciously bent as fearing exceedingly lest one day it would become a Bishops seat and so prejudice and impeach their jurisdiction At this day this Town is best knowne by reason of the common Goale of the countrey and the Assises which are often times kept there Then Tamar looketh up unto an high hil stretched out in length with a vast head which Marianus nameth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and interpreteth it Hengists mount commonly called Hengston-hill Which in times past was so plentifull of Tinne veines that the countrey people had this
by word of it Hengston downe well ywrought Is worth London deere ybought And it was an ordinarie place where every seven or eight yeere the Stannarie men of Cornwall and Denshire were wont in great frequencie to assemble together and to consult about their affaires At this hill in the yeere of savation DCCCXXXI the British Danmonij who calling the Danes to aid them of purpose to break into Devonshire that they might drive out the English from thence who alreadie possessed themselves of the countrey were pitiously defeated by King Egbert and slaine almost to the very last man Beneath it Tamar leaveth Halton the habitation of the Rouses anciently Lords of Little Modbery in Devonshire and running nigh unto Salt-Esse a prettie market Towne seated in the descent of an hill which hath a Major and certaine priviledges of their owne as I said erewhile it entertaineth the river Liver on which standeth that same Towne of Saint Germans whereof I spake before And now by this time spreading broader dischargeth it selfe into the Ocean making the haven which in the life of Saint Indractus is called Tamerworth after it hath severed Cornwall from Denshire For Athelstane the first English King that brought this countrey absolute under his dominion appointed this river to be the bound or limit between the Britans of Cornwal and his Englishmen after he had remooved the Britans out of Denshire as witnesseth William of Malmsburie who calleth it Tambra Whereupon Alexander Necham in his Praises of divine wisedome writeth thus Loegriae Tamaris divisor Cornubiaeque Indigenas ditat pinguibus Isiciis Tamar that Lhoegres doth divide from Cornwall in the west The neighbour-dwellers richly serves with Salmons of the best The place requireth here that I should say somewhat of the holy and devout virgin Ursula descended from hence as also of the eleven thousand British Virgins But such is the varietie of Writers whiles some report they suffered martyrdome under Gratian the Emperour about the yeare of our Lord CCCLXXXIII upon the coast of Germanie as they sailed to Armorica others by Attlia the Hun that scourge of God in the yeare CCCCL at Coline upon Rhene as they returned from Rome that with some it hath brought the truth of the History into suspition of a vaine fable And as touching that Constantine whom Gildas termeth a tyrannous whelpe of the uncleane Danmonian Lionesse as also of the Disforresting of all this country for before time it was reputed a Forrest let Historians speake for it is no part of my purpose As for the Earles none of British bloud are mentioned but onely Candorus called by others Cadocus who is accounted by late writers the last Earle of Cornwall of British race and as they which are skilfull in Heraldry have a tradition bare XV. Besaunts V. IIII. III. II. and I. in a shield Sable But of the Normans bloud the first Earle was Robert of Moriton halfe brother to William Conqueror by Herlotta their mother after whom succeeded William his sonne who when hee had sided with Robert of Normandie against Henry the First King of England being taken prisoner in battell lost both his libertie and his honours and at last turned Monke at Bermondsey Then Reginald a base sonne of Henrie the First by the daughter of Sir Robert Corber for that King plied getting children so lustfully as that hee was father of thirteene Bastards was placed in his roome This Reginald dying without issue male legitimate King Henry the Second having assigned unto his daughters certaine lands and Lordships reserved this Earledome to himselfe for the â—ehoore of his owne youngest sonne Iohn a child of nine yeares old upon whom his brother Richard the First conferred it afterwards with other Earledomes This Iohn afterward was crowned King of England and his second sonne Richard was by his brother King Henry the Third endowed with this honour and the Earledome of Poictou a Prince verily in those daies puissant in Gods service devout and religious in war right valiant for counsell sage and prudent who in Aquitaine fought battels with fortunate successe and shewed much valour and having made a voyage into the Holy Land enforced the Sarazens to make truce with him the Kingdome of Apulia offered unto him by the Pope he refused the troubles and tumults in England he often times composed and in the yeare of our Lord MCCLVIL by some of the Princes Electours of Germany was chosen King of the Romans and crowned at Aquisgrane whereupon as if he had made meanes thereto by money this verse was so riâ—e and currant every where Nummus ait pro me nubit Cornubia Romae For me my money saieth this Cornwall to Rome now wedded is For so well monied he was before that one who then lived hath put downe in writing that for ten yeares together hee might dispend one hundred markes a day But when as Germanie was all on a light fire with civil warres among competitors of the Empire he returned quickly into England where he departed this life and was interred in the famous Monastery of Hales which he had built a little after that his first begotten son Henry newly in his return from the Holy Land whiles he was at divine service devoutly occupied within a church at Viterbium in Italy was by Guy de Montfort son of Simon Montfort Earle of Leceister in revenge of his fathers death wickedly slaine Edmund therefore his second son succeeded in the Earledome of Cornwall who died without any lawfull issue and so his high and great estate of inheritance returned to King Edward the First as who was the next unto him in bloud and found as our Lawyers say his heire Whereas that Richard and Edmund his sonne Princes of the bloud Royall of England bare divers Armes from the Armes Royall of England to wit in a shield argent a Lyon rampant gules crowned or within a border sables Bezante I have with others oftentimes much marvelled at neither I assure you can I alleage any other reason but that they in this point imitated the house Royall of France for the manner of bearing Armes came from the French men unto us For the younger sonnes of the Kings of France even to the time wee now speake of bare other coats than the Kings themselves did as we may see in the family of Vermandois Dreux and Courtney and as Robert Duke of Burgundy brother to Henrie the First King of France tooke unto him the ancient shield of the Dukes of Burgundie so we may well thinke that this Richard having received the Earledome of Poictou from Henry the Third his brother assumed unto him that Lyon gules crowned which belonged to the Earles of Poictou before him as the French writers doe record and added thereto the border garnished with Besaunts out of the ancient coat of the Earles of Cornwall For so soone as the younger sonnes of the Kings of France began to beare the Armes of France with
Vautorts and partly to the Prior. Of late time it became of a poore fisher village to be a great Towne and for the number of Inhabitants growne to that passe as now it is to be seene that it may bee compared with a Citie Such is the commodiousnesse of the haven which without striking saile admitteth into the bosome thereof the tallest ships that be doth harbour them very safely as well within Tamar as Plime and beside against hostilitie sufficiently fortified For before the very midst of the havens mouth lieth S. Michaels Isle strongly fortified both by nature and art as for the haven it selfe at the very Towne it hath fortifications on both sides and is chained over when need requireth having on the South side a Pier against it and upon an hill next adjoyning a Castle built as it is thought by the Vautorts The whole Towne is divided into foure Wards governed by a Major ordained there by K. Henry the Sixth and under him every ward had in times past a Captaine set over it each of them likewise had his inferiour officers As touching that fabulous wrestling betweene Corinaeus and Gogmagog the Giant in this place let it suffice to set downe a verse or two out of Architrenius concerning the same and the Westerne Giants Hos auidum belli robur Corinaeus Averno Praecipitis misit cubitis ter quatuor altum Gogmagog Herculeâ suspendit in aere luctâ Anthaeumque suum scopulo detrusit in aequor Potavitque dato Thetis ebria sanguine fluctus Diuisumque tulit mare corpus Cerberus umbram These martiall monsters Giants strong by Corinaeus slaine With Gogmagog twelve cubits high a combat did remaine Whom up he hang'd twixt heaven and earth thus once Alcides hung Antaeus fell and from the rock into the Sea him flung His bloud gave Thetis the waves to drinke her selfe therewith was drunke His grisly ghost had Cerberus when body torne was sunke As for that rock from whence they say this Giant was cast down it is now called the Haw a very hill standing between the Town and the Ocean on the top whereof which lieth spred into a most pleasant plaine there is a right delectable and goodly prospect every way and for the use of Sailers a very faire Compasse erected The circuit of this Town not great but much renowned it is among forraine nations and not so much for the commodious haven as the valour of the Inhabitants in sea services of all sorts For to say nothing of all others from hence was Sir Francis Drake that famous Knight and most skilfull man at sea in our daies who first as I have heard himselfe relate to repaire the losses which he had sustained at the Spaniards hands for two yeares space together with victorious successe held and kept the Bay of Mexico as it were besieged and travailed over the Isthmus of Dariena From whence when he had once beheld the South sea as the Spaniards call it as another Themistocles stirred up with the Trophees of Miltiades thought hee should have neglected himselfe his country and his owne glory unlesse he sailed over it which continually presented it selfe as an object to his adventurous mind In the yeare therefore 1577. putting to sea from hence he entred into the streits of Magellan and in two yeares and ten moneths through many alternative varieties of fortune God being his guide and valour his consort was the next after Magellanus that sailed round about the world Whereupon one wrote thus unto him Drake pererrati novit quem terminus orbis Quemque semel mundi vidit uterque polus Si taceant homines facient te sidera notum Sol nescit comitis immemor esse sui Sir Drake whom well the worlds end knows which thou did'st compasse round And whom both poles of heaven once saw which North and South doe bound The Starres above will make thee knowne if men here silent were The Sunne himselfe cannot forget his fellow-travailler The rest of his noble exploits and of others who descended from hence taking example by him flourished in glorious atchivements by sea seeing it belongs not to this place let Historians record in writing Neither have I ought else to say more of this Towne but that in the raigne of William Rufus there flourished heere one Ealphege a learned and married Priest For untill the yeare 1102. Priests in England were not forbidden to have their wives Then Anselme Archbishop of Canterbury violently forced both the sacred Scripture and nature also as our writers in those daies doe complaine and namely Henry of Huntingdon expresly of Anselme in these termes He prohibited English Priests to have wives who before-time were not prohibited Which as some thought to be a matter of greatest puritie so others againe tooke it to be most perilous lest while by this meanes they aimed at cleannesse above their power they should fall into horrible uncleannesse to the exceeding great shame of Christianitie More inward in the country and yet not farre from the water of Plim is Plimpton seated a mercate Towne well frequented where the remnants and deformed ruines of a Castle shew themselves of which many men have holden as our Lawyers terme it in Castle guard for it was the chiefe seat of the Redversies or the Riparii for both we read who were Barons of Plimpton and Earles of Denshire Next unto this stood Plimpton S. Mary the glorie whereof then fell to decay when as not long since the Colledge there of Canons was dissolved which William Warlewast Bishop of Exceter in old time had founded More Eastward you see Modburie a little Towne which acknowledgeth it selfe to appertaine to the ancient and right worshipfull family of the Campernulphs Knights who also are called in old Deeds De campo Arnulphi but commonly Champernouns which received much advancement and reputation by the heire of the Uautorts From Plims mouth where the South shore of this region beginneth the countrey runneth along with a large and great front as farre as to Stert a cape or promontorie for so the word in the English Saxon tongue signifieth but so soone as the shore hath drawne it selfe back land-ward the river Dert breaketh out which arising from the inward part of the country runneth downe apace through certaine leane and high grounds called thereupon Dertmore wherein of late were Lode stones found and carrieth downe with it certaine grit and sand out of the Tin-mines which by little and little choke up the channell through the Forrest of Dortmore where David of Sciredun held lands in Sciredun and Siplegh by this tenure or service to find two arrowes when the King his soveraigne Lord should come to hunt in that Forrest From thence by Dertinton a Baronie sometimes of the Martins who were Lords of Keimes in Wales it holdeth in his streame unto Totnes Which being an ancient little Towne standing pendant upon the fall of an hill
Reeds which the Britaines call Hesk wherewith Northerne nations and such are the Britaines thatched and covered their houses yea and fastened together as it were with soder the joynts of their ships But considering that there be no reeds heere found I am not hasty to give credit thereto This river hath his head and springeth first in a weely and barren ground named Exmore neere unto Severn sea a great part whereof is counted within Sommersetshire and wherein there are seene certaine monuments of anticke worke to wit Stones pitched in order some triangle wise others in a round circle and one among the rest with an Inscription in Saxon letters or Danish rather to direct those as it should seeme who were to travaile that way Now this Ex or Isc beginning his course first from thence Southward by Twifordton so called of two foords but commonly Teverton a Towne standing much upon clothing to the great gaine and credit thereof passeth forward through a faire country of good and fertile fields and is augmented with two especial rivelets Creden from the West and Columb from the East Upon Creden in the Primitive Church of the Saxons there flourished an Episcopall See in a Towne of the same name anciently called Cridiantun now by contraction Kirton where that Winifride or Boniface was borne who converted the Hessians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany unto Christ and for that was accounted the Apostle of Germany and canonized a Saint At this present it is of no great reckoning but for a small market and the Bishop of Exceter his house there but within our fathers remembrance of much greater name and request it was for a Colledge there of twelve Prebendaries who now are all vanished and gone The river Columb that commeth from the East passeth hard by Columbton a little Towne bearing his name which King Alfred by his Testament bequeathed to his younger sonne and neere unto Poltimore the seate of that worshipfull and right ancient family of Bampfield intermingleth it selfe with the waters of Ex. And now by this time Isc or Ex growing bigger and sporting himselfe as it were with spreading into many streames very commodious for mils hieth apace and commeth close to the Citie of Excester unto which he leaveth his name whereupon Alexander Necham writeth thus in his Poem of Divine sapience Exoniae fama celeberimus Iscianomen Praebuit To Excester Ex a River of fame First Iscia call'd impos'd the name This Citie Ptolomee calleth ISCA Antoninus ISCA DVNMONIORVM for DANMONIORVM others but falsely Augusta as if the second Legion Augusta had there beene resident Whereas wee shall shew hereafter that it kept station and residence in ISCA SILVRVM The English Saxons termed it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Monketon of the Monks at this day it is called Excester in Latine Exonia in British Caerisk Caeauth and Pencaer that is a head or principall Citie For Caer to tell you once for all with our Britans is as much to say as a Citie whereupon they use to name Jerusalem Caer Salem Lutetia or Paris Caer Paris Rome Caer Ruffaine Thus Carthage in the Punick tongue was called as Solinus witnesseth Cartheia that is the new Citie I have heard likewise that Caer in the Syriack tongue signified a Citie Now seeing that the Syrians as all men confesse peopled the whole world with their Colonies it may seeme probable that they left their tongue also to their posteritie as the mother of all future languages This Citie as saith William of Malmesbury albeit the soile adjoyning bee wet foule and wealie scarce able to bring forth hungry oates and many times emptie huskes without graine in them yet by reason of the statelinesse of the place the riches of the Inhabitants and frequent concourse of strangers all kind of traffique and commerce of merchants is there so fresh that a man can aske there for no necessary but hee may have it Scituate it is on the Eastward banke of the river Ex upon a little hill gently arising with an easie ascent to a pretty heighth the pendant whereof lieth East and West environed about with ditches and very strong walles having many turrets orderly interposed and containeth in circuit a mile and a halfe having suburbs running out a great way on each side In it there are xv Parish-Churches and in the very highest part thereof neere the East gate a Castle called Rugemont sometime the seat of the West Saxon Kings and afterwards of the Earles of Cornwall but at this day commended for nothing else but the antiquitie and scituation thereof For it commandeth the whole Citie and territorie about it and hath a very pleasant prospect into the sea In the East quarter of the City is to be seen the Cathedrall Church in the midst of many faire houses round about it founded as the private history of the place witnesseth by King Athelstan in the honour of Saint Peter and replenished with Monks which Church at length Edward the Confessor after he had remooved some of the Monks from thence to Westminster and translated thither the Bishops Sees of Cornwall and Kirton adorned with Episcopall Dignitie and made Leofrike the Britan first Bishop there whose Successours augmented the Church both with Edifices and also with revenues and William Bruier the ninth Bishop after him when the Monks were displaced brought in a Deane and twentie and foure Prebendaries In which age flourished Joseph Iscanus borne heere and from hence taking his surname a Poet of most excellent wit whose writings were so well approved as that they had equall commendation with the works of ancient Poets For his Poem of the Trojan war was divulged once or twice in Germanie under the name of Cornelius Nepos When this Citie Isca came under the Roman Jurisdiction it appeareth not for certaine For so farre off am I from thinking that Vespasian wonne it as Geffrey of Monmouth affirmeth what time as he warring in Britaine under Claudius the Emperour was shewed by the Destinies unto the world that I thinke it was then scarcely built Yet in the time of the Antonines it may seeme to have beene well knowne for hither and no farther this way did Antonine specifie any place in his way-faring book It came not fully to the English-Saxons hands before the 465. yeare after their entrance into Britain For at that time Athelstane expelled the Britans quite out of the Citie who before had inhabited it in equall right with the Saxons yea and drave them beyond Tamar and then fortified the Citie round about with a rampire and wall of fouresquare stone and other bulwarks for defence Since which time many benefits by the Kings have beene bestowed upon it and among the rest as we read in William the Conquerours booke This Citie paide no tribute but when London Yorke and Winchester paide and that was halfe a marke of silver for a souldiers service And when there was
begot of the Lady Margaret Howard Daughter to the late Duke of Norfolk In this Countie are numbred Parishes 248. BELGAE VPon the North and East side of the Durotriges bordered in times past the Belgae who as it is by the name probable and by authority of writers very likely passed over from the Belgae a people in Gaule into Britaine For those Belgae having their beginning as Caesar according to the information he had from the men of Rhemes of the Germans and in old time being brought over the Rhene finding the sweetnesse and fertility of the place expelled the Gaules and planted themselves there From whence as the same Caesar saith they gat them over into Britaine for to spoile and in warlicke manner to invade the country and were all of them called after the name of those countryes from whence they came where after they had made warre they remained and began to till the grounds But at what time they came hither to dwell it is not certainly knowen unlesse Divitiacus King of the Suessones who flourished before Caesars time brought over the Belgae hither For a great part as well of Gaule as of Britaine he had under him Whence also they were named Belgae it is not sufficiently shewed Hubert Thomas of Liege a great learned man supposed Belgae to be a German word for that the Germans use to call the French and the Italians Wallen as strangers yea and some of them Welgen Iohn Goropius himself a Belgian maintaineth it to be derived of the word Belke which in the Belgicke tongue signifieth wrath or anger as if they would be sooner incensed with choler than others But seeing that the name of the Belgae seemeth not to be sought for out of that tongue which the Germans of the Low-countries use at this day and is almost the same that our English-Saxon language for from the Saxons it came whom Charles the Great brought over into Brabant and Flanders for my part I will in no wise diminish their credit who fetch it forth of the ancient Gaules tongue which remayneth in manner uncorrupt among our Welch-Britans and will have them called Belgae of Pell which in that tongue betokeneth Remote or far off For of all Gaule they were the furthest and as they were furthest from the civill behaviour and humanity of the Roman Province so they were also in situation and seat and the Poet hath shewed that the Morini were the people of all Belgica most remote when he wrote thus Extremique hominum Morini that is The morini of all men furthest But come we now to our Belgae who inhabited far and wide in Somersetshire Wiltshire and the inner parts of Hantshire SOMERSETSHIRE THe Countie of Somerset commonly called Somersetshire is a verie large and wealthy Region the North side whereof the Severne Sea beateth upon the West part confineth with Denshire in the South it bordereth first upon Devonshire and then upon Dorsetshire Eastward upon Wiltshire and North-east upon part of Glocestershire The Soile verie rich yeelding for the most part thereof passing great plentie both of pasture and corne and yet not without stonie hilles Exceeding populous and full of Inhabitants furnished also with commodious havens and ports sufficiently Some thinke it was so called for that the aire there is so mild and summer-like and in that sence the Welch Britans at this day terme it Gladerhaf borrowing that name out of our English tongue And verily howsoever in summer time it is a right summer-like Country yet surely in winter it may worthily be called a winterish Region so wet and weely so miry and moorish it is to the exceeding great trouble and encombrance of those that travell in it But I will beleeve that this name without all question grew from Somerton a famous Towne in ancient time and of all others in the shire most frequented considering that Asserius a writer of great antiquitie calleth this Countie in every place Somertunensis that is Somertunshire In the very first limit of the shire Westward where Ex riseth in a solitarie and hilly moore first appeareth Dulverton a silly market according to the soile and neere unto it was a small religious house of Black-chanons at Barelinch who in latter times acknowledged the Fetyplaces their founders Higher upward on the Severne side where this shire confineth upon Devonshire first we meet with Porlock in the English-Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Watchet in times past Wecedpoort roades both and harbours for ships the which in the yeere 886. were most grievously afflicted by the Danish cruell piracies Betwixt them standeth Dunster Castle upon a flat and low ground enclosed round about with hilles saving to the Sea-ward built by the Moions or Mohuns From whose heires by agreements and compositions it came in the end to the Lutterels A right noble and mightie house this of the Mohuns was for a long time and flourished from the verie Conquerours daies under whose raigne that Castle was built unto the time of King Richard the Second Two Earles there were of this Countie out of that familie as I shall shew hereafter William and Reginald who in the Barons warre lost that honor The Posteritie afterwards were reputed Barons of whom the last named Iohn left three daughters Philip wife to Edward Duke of Yorke Elizabeth wedded to William Montacute Earle of Sarisburie the second of that name and Maud Joyned in marriage to the Lord Strange of Knokin The Mother of which three Ladies as the report goes obtained of her husband so much pasture-ground in Common by the Towne side for the benefit of the Inhabitants as she could goe about in one day barefoot SOMERSETTENSIS Comitatus Vulgo Somersett Shyre Qui â—lim pars fuit BELGARVM Now to returne the river Ivel from hence runneth to ISCHALIS mentioned by Ptolomee now Ivelcester named in the Catalogue of Ninnius if I be not deceived Pontavel Coit for Pont-Ivel Coit that is Ivel bridge in the wood by Florentius of Worcester Givelcester at this day of small account but onely for the antiquitie and the market there kept for peeces of the Roman Caesars or Emperours money of gold brasse and silver are other whiles here digged up That in old time it had been a great towne and on some sides strengthned with a double wall the ruines declare and two towers upon the Bridge About the time of the Normans comming in well peopled it was and much frequented For reckoned there were in it one hundred and seven Burgesses A sure place also in those daies and well fortified for in the yeere of Grace 1088 when the Nobles of England had conspired plotted against King William Rufus to put him downe and set up his brother Robert Duke of Normandie in his Roiall throne Robert Mowbray a warlike man having burnt Bathe forcibly assaulted this towne but with lost labour yet what hee could not doe then long processe of time
alwayes called in plaine words Burg-water that is Walters burgh or Burgh-walter and as we may very probably conjecture of that Walter de Duaco or Doway who served under William Conqueror in his wars and received at his hands many faire mannors in this shire Neither carrieth it any other name in that grant or donation whereby Fulke Paynes Lord of Bampton passed the possession of the place over unto William Briwer to curry favour with him being so great a man and so gracious a favourite with King Richard the First This Williams sonne and bearing his name bettered this haven having obtained licence of King Iohn to fortifie a Castle built heere a Fortresse which now time hath wrought her will of and began a bridg which one Strivet a gentleman of Cornwall with infinite cost finished founded also the Hospitall of S. Iohn heere and Dunkeswell Abbay But when this William Briwer the younger left this life without issue in the partition of his heritage it fell to Margaret his sister in right of whose daughter that she had by William De la fort it came to the house of Cadurci or Chaworths and from it hereditarily to the Dukes of Lancaster as some lands heereabout by an other sister came to Breos and so by Cantalupe to Lord Zauch But the greatest honor that this place had was by the title of an Earldome that King Henrie the Eight adorned it withall what time as he created Henrie Doubeney Earle of Bridge-water whose sister Cecilie was married unto Iohn Bourchier the first Earle of Bath out of that house Beneath this some few miles off Parret voideth it selfe into the Severne sea at a wide mouth which as we said Ptolomee called Vzella aestuarium and some even at this day Evelmouth but the old English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at which place as Marianus mine author writeth Ealstan Bishop of Shirburne about the yeere of Salvation 845. discomfited the Danish forces as they were stragling abroad At the same mouth where we saw Honispell an ancient Mannour of the Coganes men of great fame in the conquest of Ireland there meeteth it another river called of some Brius which ariseth out of that great and wide wood in the East-side of this shire which the Britans named Cort Maur the Saxons Selwood that is by Asserius interpretation The great wood but now not so great This river first visiteth Bruiton to which he leaveth his name a place memorable for that the Mohuns there entombed who built a religious house of the Fitz-Iames runneth a long way by small villages and encreased with some other brooks it watereth goodly grounds untill it meete with softer soile then and there it maketh certaine marshes and meres and when the waters rise environeth a large plot of ground as an Isle so called of old time in the British tongue the Isle of Aualon of Appulis afterwards named Inis Witrin that is The Glassy Isle like as in the Saxon Idiome the same sense 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in Latin Gloscania Of which a Poet of good antiquity writeth thus Insula pomorum quae fortunata vocatur Ex re nomen habet quia per se singula profert Non opus est illi sâ—lcantibus arva colonis Omnis abest cultus nisi quem natura ministrat Vltró foecundas segetes producit herbas Nataque poma suis praetonso germine sylvis The Apple-Isle and Fortunate folke of the thing so call For of it selfe it bringeth forth corne Forage fruit and all There is no need of country clowns to plough and till the fields Nor seene is any husbandry but that which nature yeelds Of the owne accord there commeth up corne grasse and herbs good store Whole woods there be that apples beare if they be prun'd before In this Isle under a great hill rising in great height with a tower theron which they call the Tor flourished the famous Abbay of Glastenbury the beginning whereof is very ancient setched even from that Ioseph of Arimathaea who enterred the bodie of Iesus Christ and whom Philip the Apostle of the Gaules sent into Britaine for to preach Christ. For thus much both the most ancient records and monuments of this Monasterie testifie and also Patrick the Irish Apostle who lived there a Monke thirtie yeeres in an Epistle of his hath left to memorie Whereupon this place was by our Ancestors named The first land of God The first land of Saints in England The beginning and fountaine of all religion in England The tombe of Saints The mother of Saints The Church founded and built by the Lords Disciples Neither is there any cause why we should much doubt thereof sithence I have shewed before that the beames of Christian religion in the very infancie of the primitive Church were spred and shined upon this Iland yea and Freculphus Lexoviensis hath written that the said Philip conducted barbarous nations neere unto darknesse and bordering just upon the Ocean to the light of knowledge and port of faith But to our Monasterie and that out of Malmesburie his booke touching this matter When that old Cell or litle chappell which Ioseph had built by continuance of time was in the end decaied Devi Bishop of Saint Davids erected a new one in the same place which also in time falling to ruine twelve men comming out of the North part of Britaine repaired it and lastly King Ina who founded a schoole in Rome for the training up and instruction of English youth to the maintenance thereof as also for almes to be distributed at Rome had laid an imposition of Peter-pence upon every house thorowout his realme having demolished it built there a very faire and stately Church to Christ Peter and Paul and under the very highest coping thereof round about caused to bee written these verses Syderei montes speciosa cacumina Sion A Libano geminae flore comante cedri Caelorum portae lati duo lumina mundi Ore tonat Paulus fulgurat arce Petrus Inter Apostolicas radianti luce coronas Doctior hic monitis celsior ille gradu Corda per hunc hominum reserantur astra per illum Quos docet iste stylo suscipit ille polo. Pandit iter coeli hic dogmate clavibus alter Est via cui Paulus janua fida Petrus Hic Petra firma manens ille Architectus habetur Surgit in hijs templum quo placet ara Deo Anglia plaude lubens mittit tibi Roma salutem Fulgor Apostolicus Glasconiam irradiat A facie hostili duo propugnacula surgunt Quod fidei turres urbs caput orbis habet Haec pius egregio Rex Ina refertus amore Dona suo populo non moritura dedit Totus in affectu divae pietatis inhaereus Ecclesiaeque juges amplificavit opes Melchi-sedech noster meritó Rex atque Sacerdos Complevit verae religionis opus Publica jura regens celsa palatia servans Vnica Pontificum gloria norma
elsewhere is called Cangton But of these matters let the reader be judge my selfe as I said doth no more but conjecture whiles I seeke to trace out these their footsteps and hope to find them out some where-else Among these hils standeth Chuton which was the habitation if I take not my markes amisse of William Bonvill whom King Henrie the Sixth called by his writ of Summons to the Parliament by the name William de Bonvill and Chuton among other Barons of the Realme made him Knight of the Garter and richly matched his sonne in marriage with the sole daughter of Lord Harington But when he unthankefull man that he was in the heate of civill warre revolted and tooke part with the house of Yorke as if vengeance had pursued him hard at heeles that onely sonne of his he saw taken from him by untimely death and his nephew by the same sonne Baron of Harington slaine at the battell of Wakefield and immediately after that his old age might want no kind of miserie whiles he waited still and long looked for better daies was himselfe taken prisoner in the second battell of Saint Albans and having now run through his full time by course of nature lost his head leaving behind him for his heire his Grand-childs daughter Cecilie a Damsel of tender yeares who afterwards with a great inheritance was wedded to Thomas Greie Marquesse Dorset But his bloud after his death was by authoritie of Parliament restored Under Mendip hills northward there is a little village called Congersburie so named of one Congar a man of singular holinesse Capgrave hath written that hee was the Emperours sonne of Constantinople who lived there an Eremite also Harpetre a Castle by right of inheritance fell to the Gornaies and from them descended to the Ab-Adams who as I have read restored it to the Gornaies again Southward not farre from the foresaid hole where Mendip slopeth downe with a stony descent a little citie with an Episcopall See is scituate beneath at the hill foot sometime called as saith Leland but whence he had it I wot not Theodorodunum now Welles so named of the Springs or Wels which boile and walme up there like as Susa in Persia Croia in Dalmatia and Pagase in Macedonia were named of the like fountaines in their countrey speech whereupon this also in Latin is called Fontanensis Ecclesia as one would say Fountain-Church Fot multitude of Inhabitants for faire and stately buildings it may well and truely chalenge the preheminence of all this Province A goodly Church it hath and a Colledge founded by King Ina in honour of Saint Andrew and soone after endowed by Princes and great men with rich livings and revenewes among whom King Kinewolph by name in the yeare of our Lord 766. granted unto it very many places lying thereabout For in a Charter of his wee reade thus I Kinewolph King of the West-Saxons for the love of God and that which is not openly to be spoken for some vexation of our enemies those of the Cornish Nation with the consent of my Bishops and Nobles will most humbly give and consecrate some parcell of Land to Saint Andrew the Apostle and servant of God that is to say as much as commeth to Eleven Hides neere to the River called Welwe for the augmentation of that Monasterie which standeth neere the great fountaine that they call Wiclea This Charter have I set downe both for the antiquitie and because some have supposed that the place tooke name of this River verily neere the Church there is a Spring called Saint Andrewes Well the fairest deepest and most plentifull that I have seene by and by making a swift Brooke The Church it selfe all throughout is very beautifull but the Frontispiece thereof in the West end is a most excellent and goodly piece of worke indeede for it ariseth up still from the foot to the top all of imagerie in curious and antike wise wrought of stone carved and embowed right artificially and the Cloisters adjoyning very faire and spacious A gorgeous pallace of the Bishops built in manner of a Castle fortified with walles and a moate standeth hard by Southward and on the other side faire houses of the Prebendaries For Seven and Twenty Prebends with nineteene other petty Prebends beside a Deane a Chaunter a Chancellour and three Archdeacons belong to this Church In the time of K. Edward the elder a Bishops See was here placed For when the Pope had suspended him because the Ecclesiasticall discipline and jurisdiction in these westerne parts of the Realme began openly to decay then he knowing himselfe to be a maintainer and Nurse-father of the Church ordained three new Bishopricks to wit of Cridie Cornwall and this of Welles where hee made Eadulph the first Bishop But many yeares after when Giso sate Bishop there Harold Earle of the West-Saxons and of Kent who gaped so greedily for the goods of the Church so disquieted and vexed him that hee went within a little off quite abolishing the dignitie thereof But King William the Conquerour after hee had overthrowne Harold stretched out his helping hand to the succour of banished Giso and reliefe of his afflicted Church At what time as witnesseth Doomesday booke the Bishop held the whole towne in his owne hands which paid tribute after the proportion of fiftie Hides Afterwards in the raigne of Henry the First Iohannes de Villula of Tours in France being now elected Bishop translated his See to Bathe since which time the two Sees growing into one the Bishop beareth the title of both so that hee is called The Bishop of Bathe and Welles Whereupon the Monkes of Bathe and Canons of Welles entred into a great quarrell and skuffled as it were each with the other about the choosing of their Bishops Meane while Savanaricus Bishop of Bathe being also Abbat of Glastenbury translated the See of Glastenbury and was called Bishop thereof but when hee died this title died with him and the Monkes and Canons aforesaid were at length brought to accord by that Robert who divided the Patrimonie of Welles Church into Prebends instituting a Deane Sub-deane c. Joceline also the Bishop about the same time repaired the Church with new buildings and within remembrance of our Grand-fathers Raulph of Shrewsburie so some call him built a very fine Colledge for the Vicars and singing-men fast by the North side of the Church and walled in the Bishops Palace But this rich Church was dispoiled of many faire possessions in the time of King Edward the Sixth when England felt all miseries which happen under a Child-King As ye goe from the Palace to the market-place of the towne Thomas Beckington the Bishop built a most beautifull gate who also adjoyned thereto passing faire houses all of uniforme height neere the Market-place in the middest whereof is to be seene a Market-place supported with seven Columnes or pillar without arched
deprived thereof by King Henrie the Fourth having the title onely of the Earle of Somerset left unto him The said Iohn had three sonnes Henry Earle of Somerset who died in his tender age Iohn created by King Henry the Fifth the first Duke of Somerset who had one sole daughter named Margaret mother to King Henry the Seventh and Edmund who succeeded after his brother in the Dukedome and having beene a certaine time Regent of France being called home and accused for the losse of Normandie after hee had suffred much grievance at the peoples hands in that regard was in that wofull war betweene the houses of Lancaster and Yorke slaine in the first battaile of S. Albans Henrie his sonne being placed in his roome whiles hee served the times siding one while with Yorke and anotherwhile with Lancaster in the battaile at Exham was by those of the houses of Yorke taken prisoner and with the losse of his head paied for his unconstant levitie Edmund his brother succeeded him in his honor who of this family was the last Duke of Somerset and when the whole power of the Lancastrians was discomfited at Tewkesbury was forcibly pulled out of the Church into which all embrued with bloud he fled as into a Sanctuary and then beheaded Thus all the legitimate males of this family being dead and gone first King Henry the Seventh honored with title Edmund his owne son a young child who shortly departed this world afterwards King Henry the Eighth did the like for his base sonne named Henry Fitz-Roy And seeing he had no children King Edward the Sixth invested Sir Edward de Sancto Mauro commonly Seimor with the same honour who being most power-able honorable and loaden with titles for thus went his stile Duke of Somerset Earle of Hertford Vicount Beauchamp Baron Seimor Vncle to the King Governor of the King Protector of his Realmes Dominions and subjects Lieutenant of the forces by land and sea Lord high Treasurer and Earle Marshall of England Captaine of the Isles Gernsey and Iarsey c. Was sodainely overwhelmed as it were by a disport of fortune which never suffereth suddaine over-greatnesse to last long and for a small crime and that upon a nice point subtlely devised and packed by his enemies bereaved both of those dignities and his life withall In this Countie are numbred Parishes 385. WILTONIAE Comitatus herbida Plâ—nicie nobilis vulâ—o will Shire pars olim BELGARVM WILSHIRE WIl-shire which also pertained to the BELGAR called in the English-Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Latine commly termed Wiltonia taking that denomination of Wilton sometime the chiefe towne like as it of the River Willy is altogether a mediterranean or mid-land country For enclosed it is with Somersetshire on the West Berkshire and Hampshire on the East on the North with Glocestershire and on the South with Dorsetshire and a part of Hampshire A Region which as it breedeth a number of warlike and hardy men who in old time with Cornwall and Denshire together challenged by reason of their manhood and martiall prowesse the prerogative in the English armie of that regiment which should second the maine battell as saith Iohn of Sarisburie in his Polycraticon so is it exceeding fertill and plentifull of all things yea and for the varietie thereof passing pleasant and delightsome The Northern and upper part which they call North-Wilshire riseth up somewhat with delectable hils attired in times past with large and great woods which now begin to grow thinne and watered with cleare rivers For Isis the principall and as it were Prince of all the English Rivers which afterwards taketh to him the name of Tamisis that is Thames being now as yet but little and shallow together with other Rivers of lesse name which I will speake of in their proper places water it plentifully The South part with large grassie plaines feedeth innumerable flocks of sheepe having his Rivers swelling Brookes and rils of everliving fountaines The middest of this shire which for the most part also lieth even and plain is divided overthwart from East to West with a Dike of wonderfull worke cast up for many miles together in length The people dwelling there about call it Wansdike which upon an errour generall received they talke and tell to have beene made by the divell upon a Wednesday For in the Saxon tongue it is called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to say The Ditch of Wooden or Mercurie and as it should seeme of Wooden that false imagined God and Father of the English-Saxons But I have alwaies beene perswaded that the Saxons made it as a limit to divide the two Kingdomes of the Mercians and West-Saxons asunder For this was the very place of battell betweene them whiles they strove one with another to enlarge their Dominions And neere unto this Dike standeth Wodensburg a little Village where Ceauline the most warlike King of the West-Saxons in the yeare of grace 590. whiles hee defended his Marches in a bloudy fight received such a foile and overthrow by the Britans and Englishmen that he was forced to flie his countrey and to end his daies in exile a pitious and lamentable spectacle even to his very enemies And at this Dike to say nothing of other accidents Ina the West-Saxon and Ceolred the Mercian joyned battell and departed the field on even hand Like to this was that ditch whereby King Offa kept the Britans off from his Mercians called even at this day Offa-dike others also are still to be seene among the East-Angles in Cambridgeshire and Suffolke wherewith they limited their territory and defended themselves from the inrodes and invasions of the Mercians In the North-part of Wilshire which is watered with Isis or the Thames there is a towne called Creckelade by Marianus by others Greekelade of Greeke Philosophers as some are ready to beleeve who as the historie of Oxford reporteth began there an Universitie which afterwards was translated to Oxford West from that is Highworth highly seated a well knowne Market but South from Creckelade I saw Lediard Tregoze the seat of the Familie of Saint-Iohn Knights the which Margaret de Bello Campo or Beauchamp afterwards Duchesse of Somerset gave to Oliver of Saint Iohn her second sonne For to her it came as an inheritance by Patishul Grandison and Tregoze names of great honour Wotton Basset bordeth hard upon this having this primitive name from Wood the addition doth prove that it belonged to the Noble house of the Bassets But in the latter fore-going age it was as I have heard say the habitation of the Duke of Yorke who made there a verie large Parke for to enclose Deere in From hence Breden wood now Breden Forrest stretched it selfe farre and wide which in the yeare 905. by Ethelwald Clyto and the Danes that aided him was laid waste and the Inhabitants endured all calamities of warre On the West side whereof the River Avon above mentioned
hasteneth toward VERLVCIO a most antient towne whereof the Emperor Antonine maketh mention in his Itinerarie which having not quite lost the name is called Werminster compounded of that old name and the English Saxon word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which signifieth a Monasterie In times past it enjoyed great immunities and freedomes For as wee reade in the Booke of King William the Great Nec geldavit nec hidata fuit that is It paid no tribute nor was rated by the Hide Now onely for a round Corn-market it is exceeding much frequented for hardly a man would believe what a mightie deale of Corne is weekely brought hither and quickly sold. But for remnants of Roman Antiquities I could discover none here onely on the East side are seene some trenches upon the hills and on the West a naturall round and high copt hill called Clay-hill Heere by beginneth North South and Eastward through the midst of the Shire the Plaines so wide and open that hardly a man can see from one side to another and doe limit the Horizon whereupon they are named The Plaines they are but rarely inhabited and had in late time a bad name for robberies there committed On the South side thereof there runne quietly two most still Rivers Willey-borne which Asserius nameth Guilou and Nadder commonly called Adder-bourne Wille-bourne rising at Werminster runneth neere Heitesburie or Hegtresburie an ancient mansion place of the Family of Hungerford but in the Church which hath beene Collegiate there is seene but one defaced monument of them The last Lord Hungerford created by King Henry the Eighth had his denomination of this place but enjoyed that honour a short while being condemned of a crime not to bee uttered Hence it hieth to Willy a Village some few miles distant over against it a very large warlike fence or hold and the same fortified with a deepe and duple Ditch the neighbour-dwellers call it Yanesburie Castle And by the forme and manner of making a man may easily know it was a Roman Campe. There are who verily thinke it was Vespasians Campe considering that hee being Lieutenant of the twentieth Legion under Claudius the Emperour subdued unto the Roman Empire two nations in this tract and they suppose that in the name Yanesburie there remaine some reliques still of Vespasians name Opposit to this on the other side the water is another lesse camp-place singly ditched called Dun-shat and about one mile and a halfe from Yanesburie another likewise with a single trench named Woldsbury I have noted the names as the country people tearme them that other may collect some matter thereby more than I can As for Nadder that springeth out of the South limit of the shire it creepeth with crooked windings like an Adder whereof it may seeme to have beene so called not farre from Wardour a proper fine Castle appertaining sometime to the Progenie surnamed Saint Martins But to say nothing of many owners betweene and amongst them of the Lord Brooke who repaired it and died at it now it belongeth to Thomas Arundell who being of late by King Iames created Baron Arundell of Wardour is worthy to be with praise remembred For that being a young Gentleman hee of a pious and godly mind undertaking a journey to serve in the warres against the Turkes sworne enemies of Christendome for his singular prowesse shewed at the winning of Strigonium in Hungarie deserved by honourable Charter from Rodolph the Second of that name Emperour to bee made a Count of the Empire the tenour of which Patent is thus For that hee had borne himselfe valiantly and manfully in the field and in assaults of Cities and Castles and shewing good proofe of valour in forcing of the water tower neere Strigonium tooke from the Turkes with his owne hand their Banner both himselfe and all and every one his children heires and issue whatsoever of both sexes descending from him lawfully either borne already or that ever shall from generation to generation bee borne wee have created made and named Counts and Countesses have endowed and adorned and with the title honour and dignitie of a Count imperiall Over against it lieth Hach a place at this day of small reckoning but which in the time of King Edward the First had his Lord Eustach de Hach summoned among the Peeres of the Realme for a Baron unto the high Court of Parliament And a few miles from thence is Hindon a quicke market and knowne for nothing else that I could see At the meeting of these two rivers Willey giveth his name to Wilton a place well watered and sometime the head towne of the whole Shire which thereof tooke the name In ancient times it was called Ellandunum for so we are enformed by the testimonie of old parchment records which have in expresse termes Weolsthan Earle of Ellandunum that is to say of Wilton and in another place that hee founded a little Monasterie at Ellandunum that is at Wilton By this name Ellan I am partly induced to thinke that this is the river Alan which Ptolomee mentioneth in this coast of the Countrey At this towne it was that in the yeare of our redemption 821. Egbert King of the West-Saxons obtained a victorie against Beor Wulf of Mercia but so mortall a battell it was to both parties that the river flowed commixt with the bloud of those who were allied in bloud and dissevered in faction At this towne also in the yeare of salvation 871. Aelfrid joyning battell with the Danes had the better hand at first but immediately the alternative fortune of war comming about hee was put to the worst and driven to retire In the Saxons time it flourished with the best in numbers of Inhabitants and King Eadgar as our Chronicles beare witnes beautified it with a Nunnery whereof he made his owne daughter Edith Prioresse But by the ancient Charter of Eadgar himselfe bearing date An. 874. it appeareth certainly to bee of more antiquitie For therein it is thus written The Monasterie which by King Edward my great Grandfathers Grandfather was founded in a well frequented and peopled place that by a knowne name is by the Inhabitants called Wilton And in the life of Saint Edward the Confessor we read thus Whiles S. Edward went in hand with the building of the Monasterie of S. Peter in Westminster Editha his wife began at Wilton where shee was brought up a Monastery princely built of stone in lieu of the Church made of timber following the Kings good affection with the like devotion of her owne And albeit Sueno the Dane spoiled this towne most grievously in the raging heate of hostilitie yet fell it not so greatly to decay untill the Bishops of Salisbury turned another way the common passage that lay before through it into the West countries For then by little and little it fell to ruine and is now as it were a small
that they are deemed entire and solid marble The common saying is that Ambrosius Aurelianus or his brother Vther did reare them up by the art of Merlin that great Mathematician in memorie of those Britaine 's who by the treachery of Saxons were there slaine at a parley Whereupon Alexander Necâ—â—m a Poet of no great antiquitie in a poeticall fit but with no speciall grace and favour of Apollo having his instructions out of Geffreys British historie come out of these verses Nobilis est lapidum structura Chorea Gigantum Ars experta suum posse peregit opus Quod ne prodiret in lucem segniùs artem Se viresque suas consuluisse reor Hoc opus adscribit Merlino garrula fama Filia figmenti fabula vana refert Illa congerie fertur decorata fuisse Tellus quae mittit tot Palamedis aves Hinc tantum munus suscepit Hibernia gaudens Nam virtus lapidi cujlibet ampla satis Nam respersus aquis magnam transfundit in illa Vim queis curari sepiùs aeger eget Vther Pendragon molem transvexit ad Ambri Fines devicto victor ab hoste means O quot nobilium quot corpora sacra virorum Illic Hengesti proditione jacent Intercepta fuit gens inclita gens generosa Intercepta nimis credula cauta minùs Sed tunc enituit praeclari Consulâ— Eldol Virtus qui letho septuaginto dedit The Giants Daunce a famous stone-worke stands Art did her best in bringing it to passe Vaine prating fame reports by Merlins hands In manner strange this worke effected was The stones men say in their land first did lie Whence Cranes in flockes so many use to flie From thence conveied as things of charie price The Irish soile received them with joy For why their vertue in a wondrous wise Oft cures the griefe that doth sicke folke annoy For waters cast and sprinckled on these stones Their vertue take and heale the grieved ones The noble Vther that Pendragon hight Them over seas to Ambresburie brought Returning thence where he by martiall might Had quel'd his foes in battell fiercely fought O worthy Wights how many on that plaine Of you lie dead by Hengists treason slaine The Britans brave that race of noble blood Entrap't by little heed and too much trust Were kild alas in parley as they stood Through faithlesse fraud of enemies unjust But Eldol Earle his manhood excellent Then shewed to death who seventie persons sent Others say that the Britaine 's erected this for a stately Sepulchre of the same Ambrose in the very place where hee was slaine by his enemies sword that hee might have of his countries cost such a piece of worke and tombe set over him as should forever be permanent as the Altar of his vertue and manhood True it is that mens bones have many times beene digged up heere and the village lying now on Avons side is called Ambresburie that is to say Ambrose his towne where certaine ancient Kings by the report of the British Historie lay interred And the booke called Euâ—â—gium saith that a Monasterie stood there of three hundred Monkes which one Gurmundus I wot not what Pagan and Barbarian spoiled and rifled In that place afterward Alfritha King Edgar his wife by repentance and some good deed to expiate and make satisfaction for murthering of King Edward her sonne in Law built a stately Nunnerie and endowed it with livings In which Queene Eleanor King Henrie the Thirds widdow renouncing all royall pompe and princely state devoted her selfe unto God among other holy Nuns The said Ambrose Aurelianus who gave name unto the place when the Romane Empire drew now to an end toske upon him the Imperiall purple Roabe in Britaine as saith Paulus Diaconus succoured his decaying countrey and the aide of that warlike Arthur repressed the violent rage of the enemies overthrew puissant armies consisting of the most couragious Nations of Germany and at the last in a battell fought upon this Plaine lost his life in the defence of his countrey Now seeing both Gildas and Bede do write that his Parents wore the purple Roabe and were slaine why may not I suppose him to be descended of that Constantine who in the Fourth Consulship of Theodosius the younger was elected Emperour heere in Britaine in hope of his luckie name and afterwards slaine at Arles I have heard that in the time of King Henrie the Eighth there was found neere this place a table of mettall as it had beene tinne and lead commixt inscribed with many letters but in so strange a Caracter that neither Sir Thomas Eliot nor master Lilye Schoole-master of Pauls could read it and therefore neglected it Had it beene preserved somewhat happily might have beene discovered as concerning Stonehenge which now lieth obscured Scarce foure miles from Ambresburie on this side Avon there is a Warren of hares commonly called Everlie Warren where there is great increase of hares for Gentlemen in the countrey there dwelling to disport themselves with game yet not such store as that the neighbour Inhabitants should require the helpe of souldiers in their defence against them as the men of the Isles Baleares sometime did by Plinies relation albeit they did likewise much harme heere unto the Corne fields and neere neighbour unto it is Lutgershall where stood sometimes as I read the Castle of Geffrey Fitz-Peter Lord chiefe Justice of England in his time and Earle of Essex a man of exceeding great wealth Not much higher is Wolshall which was the house of the Noble Familie of Seimoâ— now Earle of Hertford or of Saint Maur to whom by marriage accrewed a great inheritance of the Estâ—rmies in this tract who bare argent three Demy-Lions Gules and from the time of King Henrie the Second were by right of inheritance the Bailifes and Guardians of the Forrest of Savenac lying hard by which is of great name for plenty of good game and for a kind of Ferne there that yieldeth a most pleasant savour In remembrance whereof their Hunters â—orne of a mightie bignesse and tipt with silver the Earle of Hertford keepeth unto this day as a monument of his progenitours More somewhat into the East the River Cunetio in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly Kenet ariseth neere unto a little Village of the same name which some would have to be that CVNETIO mentioned by Antoninus but the distance of both sides gain-saieth it Heere Selburie a round hill mounteth up aloft to a great height which by the forme of the hill it selfe and the outward settling of the earth beneath may seeme to have beene cast up by mans hand And many of that sort round and with sharpe tops are to bee seene in this tract Burrowes they call them and Barrowes raised happily in memoriall of Souldiers there slaine For bones are found in them and read I have how an usuall thing it was with the Northerne
which the unskilfull rurall people envie us the having Onely one was brought from hence to London which was to be seene in the gardens of the right honourable Sir William Cecill Lord Burghley and high Treasurer of England to wit MEMORIAE FL. VICTORINAE T. TAM VICTOR CONJUX POSVIT That this Tombe was erected for that Victorina which was called Mater Castrorum that is The mother of the Campe and who against Gallienus the Emperour excited in Gaule and Britaine the two Victorini her sonne and sonnes sonne Posthumus likewise Lollianus Marius and Tetricus Caesars I would not with others affirme Yet I have read that two of the VICTORS were in some place here in Britaine and those at one and the selfe-same time the one Maximus the Emperour his soone the other Praefectus Praetorio to the same Emperour of whom Saint Ambrose maketh mention in his Epistles but I dare avouch that neither of these twaine reared this monument for his wife As one high way or street of the Romans went straight from hence Southward to Winchester so there was another ran west-ward through Pamber Forrest very full of trees and other by-places now standing out of the way hard by Litchfield that is the field of dead bodies to the Forrest of Chute pleasant for coole shade of trees plentifull game in which the Hunters and Forresters themselves do wonder at the banke or ridge thereof so evident to be seene paved with stone but broken here and there More toward the North in the very edge and frontier of this Shire we saw Kings-Cleare a market towne in these daies well frequented the residence in times past of the Saxon Kings by it Fremantle in a parke where King Iohn much haunted also Sidmanton the habitation of the Kingsmils Knights and Burgh-Cleare scituate under an high hill in the top whereof a warlike rampire such as our countreymen called a Burgh hath a trench taking a great compasse about it from whence there being a faire and open prospect every way ever the countrey lying underneath there standeth a Beacon that by light burning fire the enemies comming may bee shewed to all the neighbour-Inhabitants round about And verily such watches or signals as this we terme in common speech Beacons of the old word Beacnian that is to shew by a signe and for these many hundred yeares they have beene in right great request and much used among us in some places by heaping up a deale of wood in others by barrels full of pitch fastened to the top of a mast or pole in the highest places of the countrey at which by night some doe evermore watch and in old time there were set horsemen as posts in many places whom our Ancestors called Hobelers who in the day time should give notice of the enemies approach This shire like as the rest which hitherto we have run over belonged to the west-Saxon Kings and when they had deposed Sigebert from his Kingdome for his tyrannie evill entreating and lewd managing of his province this countrey as Marianus writeth was assigned unto him least hee should seeme altogether a private person Whom notwithstanding afterward for his wicked deeds they likewise expelled from hence and so far was it off that this afflicted state of a King moved any man to take pitie of him that a Swine-heard in the end slew him in the wood Anderida where he had lurked and hidden himselfe This Shire can reckon but very few Earles besides those of Winchester which I have already named In the first time of the Normans Bogo or Beavose the English man who fought against the Normans in the battell at Cardiff in Wales is reputed to have beene Earle of South-hampton a man for warlike prowesse much renowned whom while the Monks laboured to set out with their fained fables they have obscured his doughtie deeds in greater darkenesse From which time unto the daies of K. Henry the Eight there was no Earle of South-hampton that I read of but he created William Fitz-williams descended from the daughter of Marquesse Montacute both Earle of South-hampton and also Admirall of England when he was now well stricken in yeares Who dying straight after without issue King Edward the Sixth in the first yeare of his raigne conferred the said honour upon Thomas Wriotheosley Lord Chancellor whose grand-child Henrie by his sonne Henrie enjoyeth the same at this day and in the prime and flowre of his age hath by good literature and militarie experience strengthned his honorable parentage that in riper yeares he might be more serviceable to his Prince and countrey There be found in this shire Parishes 253. and mercate townes 18. VECTA INSVLA ISLE OF WIGHT TO this Countie of South-hampton belongeth that Island which lieth out in length over against the midst of it South-ward called by the Romans in times past VECTA VECTIS and VICTESIS by Ptolomee 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Britaines Guith by English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For an Island they termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by us in these daies the Isle of Wight and the Whight by so small a streight running betweene anciently called Solent It is severed from the maine land that it may seeme to have beene conjoyned to it whereof that British name of it Guith which betokeneth a separation as Ninnius saith is thought to have beene given even as Sicilie also being broken off as it were and cut from Italie got the name from Secando the Latin word which signifieth cutting as the right learned Iulius Scaliger is of opinion Whereupon under correction alwaies of the Iudicious Criticks I would read in the sixt Quest. Naturall of Seneca thus Ab Italia Siciliaresecta that is Sicilie cut from Italie wheras it is commonly read there rejecta By this Vicinitie of Scite Affinitie of name we may well thinke this Vecta to be that Icta which as Diodorus Siculus writeth seemed at every tide to be an Island but when it was ebbe the ancient Britaines were wont that way to carry tinne thither by carts which should bee transported into France But yet I would not deeme it to be that MICTIS in Plinie which likewise commeth very neere unto VECTA For that in it there was plentie of tinne but in this of ours there is not to my knowledge any veine at all of mettall This Isle betweene East and West in ovall forme stretcheth out twentie miles in length and spreadeth in the midst where it is broadest twelve miles having the one side turning to the North and the other Southward The ground to say nothing of the sea exceeding full of fish consisteth of soile very fruitfull and is thankefull to the husbandman in so much as it doth affoord corne to be carried forth breeding every where store of conies hares partridges and phesants One little forrest it hath likewise and two parkes replenished with deere for game and hunting pleasure Through the midst thereof
name of Sir Iohn Lisle of the Isle of Wight ATTREBATII AS in France so also in Britaine next adjoyning unto the Belgae are ATTREBATII which name being now altogether out of use the place which they inhabite is commonly called Barkshire For let this stand as granted seeing Cesar writeth the forrainers comming out of Gallia Belgica inhabited the sea coasts of Britaine and retained still the names of their countries that these our ATTREBATII ATTREBATES of Gaule who as Ptolomee recordeth held the maritime part of Gaule lying upon the river Sein and namely that very countrey which after a sort lieth full opposite and over against our Attrebatii It was not therefore without good cause if Cesar wrote that Comius Attrebatensis was of great authority in these countries namely among his owne countrimen and that after hee was by Cesar vanquished he fled hither what time as Frontinus writeth whiles his ships were grounded upon a shelfe he commanded his sailes to be hoised up and so disappointed Cesar who pursued him of his purpose who kenning a-farre-of his full sailes and supposing that with a good gale of forewind he sailed away gave over further pursuit Whence these Attrebatii were so called it resteth doubtfull For whereas some fetch the originall from Attrech which in the old Gauls tongue they would have to signifie a land of Bread I neither approve nor disprove their opinion Sufficient it may be for us to have shewed from whence they came into Britaine as for the derivation of their name let others search into it COMITATUS Bercheriâ— vulgo Barkshyre qui olim sedes ATREBATVM BARKSHIRE THat countrie which we call Barkshire the late Latine writers terme Bercheria and was somtime by the English Saxons named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which name Asserius Menevensis deriveth from a certaine wood called Berroc where grew good store of box others from a naked or bare oake for so much the name Beroke it selfe importeh unto which the Inhabitants in dangers and troublesome times of the commonwealth were wont in old time to resort there to consult about their publike affaires The North part hereof the river Isis which afterwards is called Tamisis that is the Tamis running with a winding channell full of reaches but carrying a very gentle streame doth pleasantly water it and first severeth it from Oxfordshire afterwards from Buckinghamshire The South side where it beareth toward Hantshire the river Kenet cutteth through untill it runnes into the Tamis In the West where it bordereth upon Wiltshire and carrieth the greatest breadth as also in the middle part rich it is of it selfe and full of commodities yeelding corne in plenty especially where it falleth lower to a valley which I wotte not from what shape of a white horse imagined to appeare in a whitish chalky hill they terme The vale of Whitehorse As for the East part that confineth with Surrie it groweth very barraine or at least wise the soile is lesse fertile as standing upon forrests and woods that take up a great ground in length and breadth In the West march thereof neere unto Isis standeth Farendon seated high famous now for a mercate there kept but in times past for a certaine Fort which Robert Earle of Glocester built against King Stephen who notwithstanding wonne it with bloudy assaults and laid it so levell with the ground that now it is not to bee seene But the plot of ground whereon it stood as we finde in the Chronicle of Waverley Abbay King Iohn in the yeere of our Lord 1202. prevented by divine inspiration granted with all the appurtenances to the building of an Abbay for the Cistercians order From hence the river having with a great turning compasse after much wrestling gotten out towards the North passeth a long hard by many villages of small reckoning till at length with a returne and disporting it selfe with winding branches and divisions he commeth to Abbendon a proper towne and populous called at first by the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 then Abbandune no doubt of the Abbay rather then of one Abben I wote not what Irish Eremite as some have written A place this was as we finde in an old booke of Abbendon upon the plaine of an hill very faire and delectable to see too a little beyond the town which now is called Suniggewelle betweene two most pleasant rivelets which enclosing within them the place it selfe as it were a certaine nooke yeeld a delightsome sight to the beholders and a meete succour to the Inhabitants The very same was in times past called Sheovesham a Citie famous goodly to behold full of riches compassed about with most plentuous fields with greene medowes â—patious pastures and flockes of cattell spinning forth milke abundantly Hâ—ere was the Kings seat hither resorted and assembled the people when soever there was any treaty about the chiefe and highest affaires of the kingdome But so soone as Cissa King of the West Saxons had built the Abbay it beganne by little and little to lay downe the old name and to be called Abbendon and Abbington that is Abbay-towne This Abbay had not long flourished when all of a sodaine in a tempestuous fury of the Danes it was subverted Yet soone after it was reared againe through the bounty of King Edgar and afterwards by the meanes travaile of the Norman Abbats grew by little and little to such magnificence that among all the Abbaies of Britaine for riches and statelinesse it would hardly give place to any Which the very rubble and ruines at this day doe testifie As for the towne albeit along time it had a great stay of the Abbay yet since the yeere of our salvation 1416. in which King Henrie the Fifth built Bridges over the River Isis or Ouse as witnesseth a verse written in a window of Saint Helens Church there and turned the Kings high way hither for to make a shorter passage it beganne to bee frequented and traded so that among all the townes of this shire it goes for the chiefe hath a Major in it and maketh great gaine by that steeped barly sprouting and chitting againe which the Greekes terme Byne and wee Malt sand besides hath a Crosse of singular workemanship in the mids of their mercate place which by report in the reigne of King Henrie the sixth the Brotherhood of Saint Crosse instituted by him did erect As Cissa founded this monasterie for Monkes so Cilla out of an old booke I speake the sister of King Cedwalla built the Nunnerie at Helnestowe neere the Tamis where her selfe was Ladie Abbasse over the Virgins who afterwards were translated to Witham And whiles the warre grew hote betweene Offa and Kinulphe when a Castle was there built the Nunnes retired themselves out of the way For after that Kinulph was overthrowne whatsoever lay under his jurisdiction from the towne of Wallengford in the South part from Ichenildstreete unto Essebury and
called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of Cerdics Grandfather who first erected this Kingdome Whence they were termed Gevissi and by others also Visi-Saxones from their West situation like as the Westerne Gothes are named Visi-Gothi These at the length in the best and flourishing time of the Empire reduced the English Heptarchie into the Saxons Monarchie which notwithstanding afterward through the lither cowardise of their Kings quickly aged and soone vanished So that herein that may bee verified which we daily see The race or issue of the most valiant men and noblest Families like as the of-spring of plants hath their springing up their flowring and maturitie and in the end begin to fade and by little and little to die utterly REGNI NExt unto the Attrebatii Eastward called the people in Latine REGNI by Ptolomee PHrNOI inhabited those Regions which we at this day doe commonly terme Surry and South-sex with the Sea-coast of Hantshire As touching the Etymologie of this named I will passe over my conceits in silence because per adventure they would carry no more truth with them than if I should thinke they were by Ptolomey PHrNOI for that it was Regnum that is a Kingdome and the Romans permitted the people thereof to remaine under a regall government For in this tract it was that as Tacitus writeth certaine Cities according to an old Custome of the people of Rome were given to Cogidunus a British King that they might have even Kings also as instruments to draw others into bondage and servitude But this conjecture seemeth to my selfe not probable and haply to others absurd I utterly reject and willingly embrace the Saxon original of these latter names to wit that South-sex taketh denomination of the South-Saxons and Suthrey of the South situation upon the River for no man may denie that Suth-rey importeth so much considering that Over-rhey in the old English tongue signifieth Over or beyond the river SVTH-REY SVRRIA which Bede nameth Suthriona commonly called Suthrey and Surrey and by the Saxons of bordering South upon the river 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with them betokeneth the South and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a river or floud from the West boundeth partly upon Barkshire and Hantshire from the South upon Sussex and from the East on Kent toward the North it is watered with the River Tamis and by it divided from Middlesex A country it is not very large yet wealthy enough where it beareth upon Tamis and lieth as a plaine and champion country it yieldeth corne meetely wel and forrage abundantly especially towards the South where a continuall valley falling lowe by little and little called in times past Holmesdale of the woods therein runneth downe very pleasant to behold by reason of the delectable variety of groves fields and medowes On each side there be prety hills rising up a great way along in the country parkes every where replenished with Deere rivers also full of fish whereby it affordeth for pleasure faire game of hunting and as delightsome fishing Likened it is by some unto a course freeze garment with a green guard or to a cloath of a great spinning and thin woven with a greene list about it for that the inner part is but baraine the outward edge or skirt more fertill In my perambulation through this shire I will follow the Tamis and the rivers running into it as guides of my journey so shall I be sure to omit no memorable thing seeing that the places which are of greater marke and antiquitie doe all a-butte upon these rivers SVRREY Olim Sedes REGNORVAL Wey beeing passed from hence with a long course Northward sheweth nothing memorable besides Sutton the residence of the Westons an ancient family of Knights degree bettered by an heire of T. Camel Oking where King Henry the seventh repaired and enlarged the Manour house beeing the inheritance of the Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmont his mother who lived there in her later time Newark sometime a small Priory invironed with divided streames Pyriford where in our remembrance Edward Earle of Lincolne Lord Clinton and Admirall of England built him an house and Ockham hard by where that great Philosopher and father of the Nominals William de Ockham was borne and whereof hee tooke that name as of the next village Ripley G. de Ripley a ring leader of our Alchimists and a mysticall impostor But where this Wey is discharged into Tamis at a double mouth Otelands a proper house of the Kings offereth it selfe to bee seene within a parke neere unto which Caesar passed over Tamis into the borders of Cassivelannus For this was the onely place where a man might in times past goe over the Tamis on foote and that hardly too which the Britaines themselves improvidently bewraied unto Caesar. For on the other side of the river there was a great power of the Britaine 's well appointed and in readinesse and the very banke it selfe was fenced with sharpe stakes fastned affront against the enemie and others of the same sort pitched downe in the channell stucke covered with the river The tokens whereof saith Beda Are seene this day and it seemeth to the beholders that every one of them carrying the thicknesse of a mans thigh and covered over with lead stucke unmoveable as being driven hard into the bottome of the river But the Romans entred the river with such force when the water reached up to their verie chinnes that the Britaine 's could not abide their violence but left the banke and betooke themselves to flight In this thing I cannot bee deceived considering that the river heere is scarce sixe foote deepe the place at this day of those stakes is called Coway-stakes and Caesar maketh the borders of Cassivelanus where hee setteth downe his passage over the river to be about fourescore Italian miles from the sea which beateth upon the East-coast of Kent where he landed and at the very same distance is this passage of ours Within some few miles from thence the river Mole having from the South side passed through the whole country hasteneth to joyne with the Tamis but at length beeing letted by overthwart hils maketh himselfe a way under the ground in manner of mouldwarpe like unto that famous river Anas in Spaine whereof it may seeme it tooke name seeing that creature living within the ground is called also in English a Mole But upon this river there is not any thing of note save onely a good way off from the spring and head of it and neere unto an old port way of the Romans making which men call Stanystreet there stands the towne Aclea commonly Ockley so-named of Okes where Ethelwolph the sonne of Egbert who having beene professeed in the holy Orders and released by the Popes authority when hee had possession of his fathers kingdome by right of inheritance joyned battaile with the Danes
fought with good successe and slew all the valiantest men amongst them Yet did hee little or no good to his native country the Danes evermore renewing their forces still as they were overthrowne like unto that serpent Hydra A little from the fountaines where this river springeth standeth Gatton which now is scarce a small village though in times past it hath beene a famous towne To prove the antiquitie thereof it sheweth Roman coines digged forth of the ground and sendeth unto the Parliament two Burgesses Lower than it is seated Rhie-gat which if a man interpret according to our ancient language is as much as the Rivers course in a vale running out farre into the East called Holmesdale the Inhabitants whereof for that once or twice they vanquished the Danes as they wasted the country are wont in their owne praise to chaunt this Rythme The vale of Holmesdall Never wonne ne never shall This Rhie-gate carrying a greater shew for largenesse than faire buildings hath on the South-side a Parke thicke sette with faire groves wherein the right Noble Charles Earle of Nottingham Baron of Effingham and Lord Admirall of England hath a house where the Earles of Warren and Southrey had founded a prety Monasterie On the East side standeth a Castle mounted aloft now forlorne and for age ready to fall built by the same Earles and of the vale wherein it standeth commonly called Holmecastle under which I saw a wonderfull vault carried under the ground of arch-worke over head hollowed with great labour out of a soft gritte and crombling stone such as the whole hill standeth of These Earles of Warren as wee finde in the Offices or inquisitions held it in chiefe of the King in their Baronie from the conquest of England Hence runneth this river downe by Bechworth Castle for which Sir Thomas Browne obtained of King Henry the Sixth the libertie of holding a Faire For it is the habitation of the Brownes Knights out of which family since our grand-father can remember when Sir Anthony Browne had married Lady Lucie the fourth daughter of Iohn Nevil Marquesse Mont-a-cute Queene Mary honoured his sonnes sonne with the title of Vicount Mont-a-cute Some few miles from hence Westward Effingham sheweth it selfe the possession not long since of William Howard son to that Noble Thomas Duke of Norfolke that triumphed over the Scots who being created by Queene Mary Baron Howard of Effingham made Lord High-Admirall of England was first Lord Chamberlain unto Queene Elizabeth of most happy memorie and then Lord privie Seale whose sonne Charles now flourisheth Lord great Admirall of England whom in the yeare of our Lord 1597. the same Queene Elizabeth honoured also with the title of Earle of Nottingham of whom more in my Annales but now returne we to the river The Mole now being come as farre as Whitehill whereon the Box tree groweth in great plenty at the foote thereof hideth himselfe or rather is swallowed up and thereof the place is called the Swallow but after a mile or two neere unto Letherhed bridge boyling up and breaking forth taketh joy to spring out againe So that the Inhabitants of this tract may boast as well as the Spaniards that they have a bridge which feedeth many flockes of sheepe For this is a common by-word most rife in the Spaniards mouthes as touching the place where their river Anas now called Guadiana hideth himselfe for ten miles together Thus our Mole rising up a fresh hasteneth faire and softly by Stoke Dabernoun so named of the ancient possessors the Dabernouns gentlemen of great good note afterward by inheritance from them the possession of the Lord Bray and by Aesher sometimes a retyring place belonging to the Bishops of Winchester And then very neare Molesey whereunto it giveth name sheddeth himselfe into the Tamis After Tamis hath taken unto him the Mole hee carrieth his streame Northwardly and runneth fast by Kingstone called in times past Moreford as some will have it a very good mercate towne for the bignesse and well frequented well knowne also in old time by reason of a Castle there belonging to the Clares Earles of Glocester Which towne had beginning from a little towne more ancient then it of the same name standing upon a flat ground and subject to the inundation of Tamis In which when England was almost ruinated by the Danish warres Athelstan Edwin and Etheldred were crowned Kings upon an open stage in the Market place and of these Kings heere crowned it came to be named Kingstone as one would say The Kings Towne Tamis now turning his course directly Northward visiteth another place which the Kings chose for themselves sometimes to sojourne at which of the shining brightnesse they call Shene but now it is named Richmond wherein the most mighty Prince King Edward the Third when he had lived sufficiently both to glory and nature died with sorrow that hee conceived for the death of that most valiant and Martiall prince his sonne which sorrow pierced so deepe and stucke so neere him and all England beside that it farre exceeded all comfort And verily at this time if ever else England had a good cause to grieve For within one yeare after it lost the true praise of military prowesse and of accomplished vertue For both of them by bearing their victorious armes throughout all France struke so great a terrour wheresoever they came that as the father might most worthily with King Antiochus carrie the name of Thunder-bolt so his sonne with Pyrrhus deserved to bee named the Eagle Heere also departed Anne wife to King Richard the Second sister of the Emperour Wenzelaus and daughter to the Emperour Charles the fourth who first taught English women the manner of sitting on horsebacke which now is used whereas before time they rode very unseemely astride like as men doe Whose death also her passionate husband tooke so to the heart that he altogether neglected the said house and could not abide it Howbeit King Henry the Fifth readorned it with new buildings and in Shene a pretty village hard by he joyned thereto a little religious house of Carthusian Monks which he called The house of Iesu of Bethelem But in the raigne of Henry the seventh this Princely place was with a woefull sudden fire consumed almost to ashes Howbeit rising up againe forthwith farre more beautifull and glorious as it were a Phaenix out of her owne ashes by the meanes of the same King Henry it tooke this new name Richmond of the title hee bare being Earle of Richmond before he obtained the Crowne of England Scarce had that Noble King Henry the Seventh finished this new worke when in this place he yeilded unto nature and ended his life through whose care vigilancy policy and forecasting wisedome for time to come the State and common-weale of England hath to this day stood established and invincible From hence likewise his sonnes daughter Queene
it selfe into a channell yet often times it overfloweth the low lands about it to no small detriment Not farre from the said mere Furle sheweth it selfe a principall mansion of the Gages who advanced their estate by the marriage of one of the heires of Saint Clare Princes favour and Court Offices The shore next openeth it selfe at Cuckmere which yet affordeth no commodious haven though it be fed with a fresh which insulateth Michelham where Gilbert de Aquila founded a Priory for black Chanons And then at East-bourn the shore ariseth into so high a Promontory called of the beach Beachy-points and Beau-cliffe for the faire shew being interchangeably compounded with rowe of chalke and flint that it is esteemed the highest cliffe of all the South coast of England As hitherto from Arundell and beyond the countrey along the coast for a great breadth mounteth up into high hilles called the Downes which for rich fertilitie giveth place to few valleys and plaines so now it falleth into such a low levell and marsh that the people think it hath been over-flowed by the sea They call it Pevensey Marsh of Pevensey the next towne adjoyning which lieth in the plaine somewhat within the land upon a small river which often times overlaieth the lands adjacent In the old English Saxon Language it was walled 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the Norman speech Pevensell now commonly Pemsey It hath had a meane haven and a faire large castle in the ruinous walles whereof remaine great bricks such as the Britans used which is some argument of the antiquitie thereof It belonged in the Conquerours time to Robert Earle of Moriton halfe brother by the mothers side to the Conquerour and then had fiftie and six Burgesses After the attainder of his Sonne William Earle of Moriton it came to King Henrie the First by Escheat In the composition betweene Stephen and King Henrie the second both towne and castle with whatsoever Richard de Aquila had of the Honor of Pevensey which after his name was called Honor de Aquila and Baronia de Aquila or of the Eagle was assigned to William Sonne to K. Stephen But he surrendred it with Norwich into King Henrie the Seconds hand in the yeere 1158 when he restored to him all such Lands as Stephen was seased of before hee usurped the crowne of England After some yeeres King Henrie the third over-favouring forrainers granted the Honor de Aquila which had fallen to the crowne by Escheat for that Gilbert de Aquila had passed into Normandie against the Kings good will to Peter Earle of Savoy the Queenes uncle But he fearing the envie of the English against forrainers relinquished it to the King and so at length it came to the Dutchy of Lancaster Inward from Pevensey is seated Herst in a Parke among the woods which name also it hath of the woody situation For the ancient English-men called a wood 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This was immediately after the Normans entry into England the seat of certaine noble gentlemen who of that place were a good while named de Herst untill William the sonne of Walleran de Herst tooke unto him the name Monceaux of the place haply where he was borne an usuall thing in that age whereupon that name also was adnexed unto this place which ever since was of the Lord termed Herst Monceaux From whose Posteritie by heire generall it descended haereditarily to the Fienes These Fienes called likewise Fenis and Fienles derive their pedigree from Ingelram de Fienes who had wedded the heire of Pharumuse of Boloigne of the house of the Earles of Boloigne in France About the time of King Edward the Second Sir Iohn Fienes married the heire of Monceaux his sonne William married one of the heires of the Lord Say his sonne likewise the heire of Batisford whose sonne Sir Roger Fienes married the daughter of Holland and in the first yeare of King Henrie the Sixt built of bricke the large faire uniforme convenient house heere Castle-like within a deepe moate The said King Henrie the Sixt Accepted declared and reputed Sir Richard Fienis sonne of the said Sir Roger to be Baron of Dacre And the same tittle King Edward the fourth chosen Arbitratour and Umpire betweene him Sir Humfrey Dacre awarded confirmed to the said S. Richard Fienis and to the heires of his bodie lawfully begotten for that he had married Ioane the cousin and next heire of Thomas Baron Dacre and to have praecedence before the L. Dacre of Gilesland heire male of the family Since which time the heires lineally descending from him being enriched by one of the heires of the Lord Fitz-Hugh have enjoyed the honor of Baron Dacre untill that very lately George Fienis Lord Dacre sonne to the unfortunate Thomas Lord Dacre died without issue whose onely sister and heire Margaret Sampson Lennard Esquire a man both vertuous and courteous tooke to wife and by her hath faire issue In whose behalfe it was published declared and adjudged by the Lords Cōmissioners for Martiall causes in the second yeere of the raigne of King Iames with his privity and assent Royall That the said Margaret ought to beare have and enjoy the name state degree title stile honor place and precedency of the Baronie of Dacre to have and to hold to her and the issue of her bodie in as full and ample manner as any of her ancestors enjoied the same And that her children may and shall have take and enjoy the place and precedence respectively as the children of her ancestors Barons Dacre have formerly had and enjoyed Now to returne to the Sea-coast about three miles from Pevensey is Beckes-hill a place much frequented by Saint Richard Bishop of Chichester and where he died Vnder this is Bulver-hith in an open shore with a rooflesse Church not so named of a bulles hide which cut into thongs by William the Conquerour reached to Battaile as they fable for it had that name before his comming But heere he arrived with his whole fleete landed his armie and having cast a rampier before his campe set fire on all his ships that their onely hope might be in manhood and their safety in victorie And so after two daies marched to Hastings then to an hill neere Nenfeld now called Standard hill because as they say he there pitched his Standard and from thence two miles farther where in a plaine the Kingdome of England was put upon the hazard and chance of a battaile and the English-Saxon Empire came to a full period and finall end For there King Harold in the yeere of our Lord 1066. the day before the Ides of October albeit his forces were much weakened in a former fight with the Danes and his soldiers wearied besides with a long journey from beyond Yorke encountred him in a place named Epiton When the Normans had sounded the Battaile first the skirmish continued for a pretty while with shot of arrowes
from both sides then setting foote to foote as if they fought man to man they maintained fight a longer time But when the English men had most valiantly received their first violent on set the Norman horsmen with full cariere put forward and gave an hot charge But seeing they also could not breake the battaile they retired for the nonce and yet kept their rankes in good order The Englishmen supposing them to flie presently disranged themselves and in disray preassed hard upon the enemies but they all on a sudden bringing backe their companies charged them a fresh on every side with all their joynt forces thicke united together and so enclosing them round about drove them backe with great slaughter who not withstanding having gotten the higher ground withstood the Normans a long time untill Harold himselfe was shot through with an arrow and fell downe dead for then straightwaies they turned their backes and betooke themselves every man to flight The Duke lofty and haughty with this victory and yet not unmindfull of God the giver thereof errected in memoriall of this battaile an Abbey to the glory of God and S. Martin which he called de Bello or Battaile Abbey in that very place where Harold after many a wound and stab among the thickest of his enemies gave up the ghost that the same might bee as it were an everlasting monument of the Normans victorie and therein he offered his sword and royall robe which he ware the day of his Coronation These the Monkes kept untill their suppression as also a table of the Normans gentry which entred with the Conquerour but so corruptly in later times that they inserted therein the names of such as were their benefactours and whosoever the favour of fortune or vertue had advanced to any eminencie in the subsequent ages About this Abbey there grew afterwards a towne of the same name or that I may use the words of the private History of this Abbey As the Abbey encreased there were built about the compasse of the same one hundred and fifteene houses of which the towne of Battell was made Wherein there is a place called by a French word Sangue lac of the bloud there shed which by nature of the ground seemeth after raine to wax red Whence William Newborough wrote although untruely thus The place in which there was a very great slaughter of the English men fighting for their countrey if peradventure it be wet with any small showre sweateth forth very fresh bloud endeed as if the very evidence thereof did plainely declare that the voyce of so much Christian bloud there shed doth still cry from the earth to the Lord. But to the said Abbey King William the Conquerour granted many and great priviledges And among other to use the very words of the Charter If any thiefe murderer or felon for feare of death fly and come to this Church let him have no harme but be dismissed and sent away free from all punishment Be it lawfull also for the Abbat of the same Church to deliver from the gallowes any thiefe or robber wheresoever if he chance to come by where such execution is in hand Henrie the First likewise that I may rehearse the words of his Charter instituted a mercate to be there kept on the Lords day free from all toll and tallage But Sir Anthony Browne Lord Vicount Mount-acute who not long since in that place built a goodly house obtained of late by authoritie of Parliament that this mercate should bee held upon another day And as for the priviledges of Sanctuary in those more heinous and grievous crimes they are here and every way els by Parliamentary authoritie quite abolished For they perceived well that the feare of punishment being once removed stout boldnesse and a will to commit wickednesse grew still to greater head and that hope of impunity was the greatest motive of ill-doing Neither heere or in that quarter nere adjoyning saw I any thing worth relation but onely Ashburnham that gave the name to a family of as great antiquity as any one in all this tract Hastings which I spake of called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is situate somewhat higher upon the same shore Some there bee that ridiculously derive this name from out of our tongue from haste or quicknesse forsooth because as Matthew Paris writeth William Conquerour at Hasting did set up hastily a fortresse of timber But it may seeme to have taken this new name of Hastings a Danish Pirate who wheresoever hee landed with intent to spoile and raise booties built oftentimes fortresses as we read in Asserius Menevensis of Boemflote castle built by him in Essex as also of others at Appledor and Middleton in Kent The tradition is that the old towne of Hastings is swallowed up of the sea That which standeth now as I observed is couched betweene a high cliffe sea-ward and as high an hill land-ward having two streetes extended in length from North to South and in each of them a parish Church The haven such as it is being fedde but with a poore small rill is at the South end of the Towne and hath had a great Castle upon the hill which over commanded it now there are onely ruines thereof and on the said hill Light houses to direct sailers in the night time Here in the reigne of King Althelstan was a mint-house Afterward it was accounted the first of the Cinque Ports which with the members belonging to it namely Seford Peuensey Hodeney Bulverhith Winchelsey Rhy c. was bound to finde one and twenty ships for warre at sea In what manner and forme if you desire to know both this Port and the rest also were bound to serve the King in his warres at sea for the immunities that they enjoy in most ample manner have heere in those very same words whereby this was in times past recorded in the Kings Exchequer Hastings with his members ought to find at the Kings summons one and twenty ships And in every shippe there must bee one and twenty tall and able men well armed and appointed for the Kings service Yet so as that summons bee made thereof on the Kings behalfe fortie daies before And when the foresaid ships and men therein are come to the place whereunto they were summoned they shall abide there in the Kings service for fifteene daies at their owne proper costs and charges And if the King shall have farther neede of their service after the fifteene daies above said or will have them to stay there any longer those ships with the men therein being whiles they remaine there shal be in the Kings service at the kings costs and charges so long as it shall please the king to wit The Master of every ship shall receive sixe pence by the day the Constable sixe pence a day and every one of the rest three pence by the day Thus Hastings flourished
least any man should thinke that as the Comicall Poet saith I deale by way of close pilfering I willingly acknowledge him and deserve he doth no lesse to have beene my foundation and fountaine both of all well-neere that I shall say Time as yet hath not bereft this Region of the ancient name but as it was called CANTIVM by Cesar Strabo Diodorus Siculus Ptolomee and others so that Saxons named it as Ninnius witnesseth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The countrey of the people inhabiting Cantium and wee Kent This name master Lambard deriveth from Caine which among the Britaines soundeth as much as a greene Bough because in old time it was shadowed with woods But it may be lawfull for mee to put in my conjecture whereas Britaine heere runneth out with a mightie nooke or corner into the East and I have observed that such a kind of nooke in Scotland is called Cantir Againe that the Inhabitants of another Angle in that part of the Island are by Ptolomee termed Cantae as also that the Cangani in Wales were possessed of another corner to say nothing of the Cantabri who likewise dwelt in an angle among the Celtiberians who as they came from one originall so likewise they were of the same language with our Britans I would guesse that the name was given by reason of the forme and scituation and so much the rather both for that our Frenchmen have used Canton for a Corner and that as it is probable from the old Language of the Gauls for it comes not from the Germane or Latine tongue which together with that old tongue be the mothers of this latter French tongue and also because this Countrey by all the old Geographers is called Angulus For it looketh full upon France with a huge Angle compassed with the aestuarie of Tamis and with the Ocean sea saving that Westward it hath Surrey and southward Sussex to confine upon it KENT THe Region which we call Kent extendeth it selfe in length from West to East fifty miles and from South to North 26. For scituation it is not uniforme as being more plaine toward the West and full of shady woods but higher Eastward by reason of hils mounting up with easie ascents The Inhabitants distinguish it as it lyeth South-east-ward from the Tamis into three plots or portions they call them steps or degrees the upper whereof lying upon Tamis they say is healthfull but not so wealthy the middle they account both healthfull and plentifull the lower they hold to bee wealthy but not healthy as which for a great part thereof is very moist yet it bringeth forth ranke grasse in great plenty Howbeit every where almost it is full of meadowes pastures and cornefields abounding wonderfully in apple-trees and cherrie-trees also which being brought out of Pontus into Italie in the 608. yeare after the foundation of Rome and in the 120. yeare after translated from thence into Britaine prosper heere exceeding well and take up many plots of land the trees being planted after a direct manner one against another by square most pleasant to behold It hath villages and townes standing exceeding thicke and well peopled safe rodes and sure harbours for ships with some veines of iron and marle but the aire is somewhat thicke and somewhere foggie by reason of vapours rising out of the waters At a word the revenues of the Inhabitants are greater both by the fertilitie of the soile and also by the neighbourhood of a great citie of a great river and the maine sea The same commendation of civilitie and courtesie which Cesar in old time gave the Inhabitants is yet of right due unto them that I may not speake of their warlike prowesse whereas a certaine Monke hath written How the Kentishmen so farre excelled that when our armies are ready to joyne battaile they of all Englishmen are worthily placed in the Front as being reputed the most valiant and resolute souldiers Which Iohn of Salisburie verifieth also in his Polycraticon For good desert saith he of that notable valour which Kent shewed so puissantly and patiently against the Danes it retaineth still unto these daies in all battailes the honour of the first and fore-ward yea and of the first conflict with the enemie In praise of whom William of Malmesbury hath likewise written thus The country people and towne-dwellers of Kent above all other Englishmen retaine still the resent of their ancient worthinesse And as they are more forward and readier to give honour and etertainment to others so they be more slow to take revenge upon others Cesar to speake briefly by way of Preface before I come to describe the particular places when he first attempted the conquest of our Island arrived at this countrey but being by the Kentish Britans kept from landing obtained the shore not without a fierce encounter When he made afterward his second voyage hither here likewise hee landed his armie and the Britaine 's with their horsemen and wagons encountred them couragiously but beeing soone by the Romans repulsed they withdrew themselves into the woods After this they skirmished sharpely with the Roman Cavallery in their march yet so as the Romans had every way the upper hand Also within a while after they charged the Romans againe and most resolutely brake through the midst of them and having slaine Laberius Durus Marshall of the field retired safe and the morrow after set upon the Foragers and victualers of the campe c. which I have briefly related before out of Cesars owne Commentaries At which time Cyngetorix Carvilius Taximagulus and Segonax were great Commanders of Kent whom he because he would be thought to have vanquished Kings termeth Kings whereas indeed they were but Lords of the countrey or Noble men of the better marke CANTIVM Quod nunc KENT But when the Romans were departed quite out of Britaine Vortigern who bare soveraigne rule in the greatest part of Britaine placed over Kent a Guorong that is to say a Vice Roy or Freed man under him and unwitting to him hee forthwith freely granted this region as Ninnius and William of Malmesbury write unto Hengist the Saxon for his daughter Rowens sake upon whom hee was exceedingly enamoured Hence it came that the first Saxon Kingdome erected in Britaine in the yeare of our Lord 456. was called by them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of the Kentishmen which after three hundred and twenty yeares when Baldred their last King was subdued fell to bee under the Dominion of the West Saxons to whom it continued subject untill the Normans Conquest For then if we may beleeve Thomas Spot the Monke for none of the more ancient Writers have recorded it the Yeomanrie of Kent at Swanes-comb a village this is where they say Suene the Dane sometime pitched his campe carrying before them in their hands every one a great greene bough representing a farre of a moving wood yeilded themselves
unto William the Conquerour upon this condition that they might retaine their ancient customes unviolated and especially that which they call Gavelkind that is Give all kinne by which they are not so bound by Copyhold customarie tenures or Tenant-right as in other parts of England but in manner every man is a free-holder and hath some part of his owne to live upon For lands of this nature are equally divided among the male children or if there be no sonnes among the daughters By vertue of this also they are at full age and enter upon their inheritance when they come to be fifteene yeares old and lawfull it is for them to alienate and make it over to any one either by gift or by sale without the Lords consent By this likewise the sonne though their parents were condemned for theft succeede them neverthelesse in such kind of Lands c. which I leave to Lawyers So that it is truely though not purely written in Latine in an old book thus The County of Kent avoucheth that this County ought by right to be free from such kind of grievance for it saith that this County was never conquered as the residue of England was but by concluding of a peace subjected themselves to the dominion of the Conquerour retaining to themselves all their liberties immunities and customes which they had and used before time After this William the Conquerour that hee might more firmely assure to himselfe Kent which is the very key of England placed a Constable over Dover Castle and according to the ancient order of the Romans made him also Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports And these bee they Hastings Dover Hith Rumney and Sandwich unto which Winchelsey and Rie are joyned as principall ports and other small townes as Members Which because they are bound to serve in the warres by sea enjoy many great immunities as who are free from payment of Subsidies and from Wardship of their children as touching the bodie neither are they sued in any court but within their owne townes and of the inhabitants therein such as they call Barons at the Coronation of Kings and Queenes support the Canopies over them yea and have a table by themselves that day spred and furnished on the Kings right hand c. And the Lord Warden himselfe who is alwaies one of the Nobilitie of most approved trust hath within his jurisdiction the authoritie of a Chancellour and Admirall in very many cases and enjoyeth other rights besides But now returne we to the places The Northside of this Country Tamis the soveraigne of all Rivers in Britaine runneth hard by as I have said before which having held on his course past Surrey forthwith being with a winding reach almost retired into himselfe doth there admit into his channell into the first limit of this shire Ravensburne a small water and of short course which riseth in Keston heath hard under the pitching of an ancient campe strange for the height of double rampiers and depth of double ditches of all that I have seene doubtlesse the worke of many Labouring hands Of what capacitie it was I could not discover for that the greatest part thereof is now severall and overgrowne with a thicket but verily great it was as may bee gathered by that which is apparent We may probably conjectture that it was a Roman Campe but I might seeme to rove if I should thinke it that Campe which Iulius Caesar pitched when the Britans gave him the last battaile with their whole forces and then having bad successe retired themselves and gave him leave to march to the Tamis side And yet certes Keston the name of the place seemeth to retaine a parcell of Kesars name for so the Britaine 's called him and not Caesar as wee doe As for the other small intrenchment not farre of by W. Wickham it was cast in fresh memory when old Sir Christopher Heydon a man then of great command in these parts trained the country people This water having passed by Bromeley a Mansion house of the Bishops of Rochester when it hath gathered strength the depth of his ford giveth name to Depe-ford a most famous Ship-docke where the Kings ships are built and such as be decaied repaired there also is a goodly Store-house and a Colledge as it were or incorporation ordained for the use of the navie The place was sometime called West-Greenwich and at the conquest of England fell to Cislebert Mamignot for his share whose Grand-child Walkelin defended Dover Castle against King Stephen and left behind him one onely daughter living who when her brother was dead by her marriage brought a rich inheritance called the Honor of Mamignot into the family of the Saies From hence the Tamis goeth to Green-wich that is the Greene Creeke for the creek of a river in the old English tongue was called Wic a place in times past famous for the Danish Fleet that lay there often at Rode and for the Danes crueltie shewed unto Ealpheg Archbishop of Canterbury whom in the yeare of our Lord a thousand and twelve they cruelly executed with most exquisite torments Whose death together with the cause thereof Ditmarus Mersepurgius who about the same time lived hath thus in the eighth booke of his Chronicles described I understood saith he by the relation of Sewald a pitifull deede and therefore memorable namely That the perfideous crew of Northman souldiours under Thurkil as yet their Captaine tooke that excellent prelate Archbishop of the Citie of Canterburie named Ealphâ—g with the rest and them after their wicked manner emprisoned and bound yea and put him to endure famine and unspeakeable paines This good man moved with humane frailtie promiseth unto them a summe of money and for the obtaining thereof did set downe a time betweene that if in this space he could not by some acceptable ransome escape this momentany death hee might yet in the meane while purge himselfe with many a groane to be offered as a lively sacrifice unto the Lord. But when all the time space appointed were come gone this greedy gulfe of Pirates called forth the servant of the Lord in threatning wise demands this tribute promised unto them to be spedily and out of hand paid Then he as a meeke Lamb Here am I quoth he ready to undergoe even for the love of Christ whatsoever ye presume now to doe against me that I may deserve to become an example of his servants And nothing am I troubled at this day And whereas I seeme unto you a lyer it is not mine owne will but great neede and povertie that hath done it This body of mine which in this exile I have loved overmuch I present as culpable unto you and I know it is in your power to doe with it what yee intend but my sinfull soule that regardeth not you I humbly commend to the Creator of all things As hee was thus speaking the whole rabble of these
prophane wretches hemmed him round about and getteth together divers and sundry weapons to kill him Which when their leader Thurkill saw a farre off he came quickly running and crying Doe not so in any wise I beseech you and heere with my whole heart I deliver unto you all my gold and silver and whatsoever I have heere or can by any meanes come by save my ship onely that yee would not sinne against the Lords annointed But this unbridled anger of his mates harder than yron and flint was nothing mollified with so gentle words and faire language of his but became pacified by shedding his innocent bloud which presently they altogether confounded and bleanded with Ox-heads stones as thicke as haile and billets hurled at him And to the memorie of this Saint Ealpheg is the Parish Church heere consecrated But now is the place of very great name by reason of the Kings house which Humfrey Duke of Glocester built and named Placence which also King Henrie the Seventh most sumptuously enlarged who adjoyned thereto a little house of observant Friers and finished that towre famous in Spanish fables which the said Duke of Glocester begun on an high hill from whence there is a most faire and pleasant prospect open to the river winding in and out and almost redoubling it selfe the greene meddowes and marshes underlying the Citie of London and the Countrie round about Which being now enlarged and beautified by the L. Henrie Howard Earle of Northampton Lord Privie Seale c. cannot but acknowledge him a well deserving benefactor But the greatest ornament by far that graced this Green-wich was our late Queene Elizabeth who heere most happily borne to see the light by the resplendent brightnesse of her royall vertue enlightned all England But as touching Green-wich have heere these verses of Leland the Antiquarian Poet Ecce ut jam niteat locus petitus Tanquam syderea domus cathedrae Quae fastigia picta quae fenestrae Quae turres vel ad astra se efferentes Quae porro viridaria ac perennes Fontes Flora sinum occupat venusta Fundens delicias nitentis horti Rerum commodus aestimator ille Râ—pae qui variis modis amoenae Nomen contulit eleganter aptum How glittereth now this place of great request Like to the seate of heavenly welkin hie With gallant tops with windowes of the best What towres that reach even to the starry skie What Orchards greene what springs ay-running by Faire Flora heere that in this creeke doth dwell Bestowes on it the flowers of garden gay To judge no doubt of things he knew full well Who gave this banke thus pleasant every way So fit a name as did the thing bewray Nothing else have I here to note but that for I would not have the remembrance of well deserving benefactors to miscarry William Lambard a godly good Gentleman built an Almeshouse here for the sustentation of poore persons which hee named The Colledge of Queene Elizabeths poore people and as the prying adversaries of our religion then observed was the first Protestant that built an Hospitall At the backe of this as ye turne out scarce three miles off standeth Eltham a retyring place likewise of the Kings but unholsomly by reason of the moate Anthony Becke Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Ierusalem built this in a manner new and gave unto Queene Eleanor wife to King Edward the First after hee had craftily conveyed unto himselfe the inheritance of the Vescyes unto whom this place before belonged For that Bishop whom the last Baron of Vescy had made his foefie for trust of all his inheritance to the use of William Vescy his little base sonne dealt not so faithfully as he should with this orphane and ward of his but dispoiled him of Alnwick Castle this and other faire lands Beneath Greenwich the Thames having broken downe his bankes hath by his irruption surrounded and overwhelmed many acres of land For the inning whereof divers have as it were strugled with the waters now many yeares and yet with great workes and charges cannot overmaster the violence of the tides which the Chanons of Liesnes adjoyning kept sound and sweete land in their times This Abbey was founded 1179. by Lord Richard Lucie chiefe Iustice of England and by him dedicated to God and the memorie of Thomas of Canterburie whom hee so admired for his piety while other condemned him for pervicacie against his Prince as hee became here a devoted Chanon to him Heere in the marshes groweth plentifully the hearbe Cochlearia called by our Countrey men Scurvy-grasse which some Phisicians would have to be the same which Plinie calleth Britannica by which name I have already made mention thereof but heare what Plinie saith In Germany when as Germanicus Caesar had removed his campe forward beyond Rhene in the maritime tract there was one fountaine and no more of fresh water whereof if a man dranke within two yeares his teeth would fall out of his head and the joynts in his knees become loose and feeble Those diseases the Phisicians tearmed Stomacace and Sceletyrbe For remedie hereof there was found an hearbe called Brittannica holesome not onely for the sinewes and maladies of the mouth but also against the Squincie and stinging of serpents c. They of Frisia what way our campe lay shewed it unto our souldiours And I marvaile what should bee the cause of that name unlesse peradventure they that confine upon the Ocean dedicated the name thereof to Britaine as lying so nere vnto it But that most learned Hadrian Iunius in his booke named Nomenclator bringeth another reason of the name whom you may have recourse unto if you please For this word Britannica hath here diverted me a side from my course From thence the Thames being contained within his bankes meeteth with the river Darent which falling downe out of Suthrey runneth with a soft streame not farre from Seven-oke so called as men say of seven exceeding great Okes now cut downe which commendeth Sir William Sevenok an Alderman of London who being a foundling and brought up here and therefore so named built heere in gratefull remembrance an Hospitall and a schoole On the East side of it standeth Knoll so called for that it is seated upon a hill which Thomas Bourchier Archbishop of Canterbury purchasing of Sir William Fienes Lord Say and Seale adorned with a faire house and now lately Thomas Earle of Dorset Lord Treasurer hath fourbished and beautified the old worke with new chargeable additaments Darent then passeth by 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now Otford a place famous in former ages for an overthrow and slaughter of the Danes which happened there in the yeare 1016. and lately by reason of the Kings house which William Warham Archbishop of Canterbury built for himselfe and his successours so sumptuously that for to avoid envie Cranmer who next succeeded him was constreined to exchange
slaughter of them when at Lapis Tituli for so is that place named in Ninnius which we now call Stouar almost in the same sense and haven certainely it was hee put them to flight and forced them with all the speed they might to take their Pinnaces In which place also he gave commandement saith he that himselfe should bee buried to represse thereby as he thought the furious outrages of the English Saxons in like sort as Scipio Africanus did who commanded that his tombe should bee so set as that it might looke toward Africa supposing that his verie tombe would be a terror to the Carthaginians Here also at VVipped fleet so called of VVipped the Saxon there slaine Hengest discomfited the Britaines and put them to flight after hee had sore tired them with sundry conflicts S. Austine our Apostle as they call him many yeares after landed in this Isle unto whose blessing the credulous Clergie ascribed the plentifull fertility of the country and the Monke Gotceline cried out in this manner O the land of Tenet happy by reason of her fertilitie but most happy for receiving and entertaining so many Divine in-commers bringing God with them or rather so many heavenly citizens Egbert the third King of the Kentishmen to pacifie dame Domneva a devout Lady whom before time he had exceedingly much wronged granted here a faire piece of land wherein she errected a Monastery for 70. veiled virgins the prioresse whereof was Mildred for her holinesse canonized a Saint and the Kings of Kent bestowed many faire possessions upon it but Withred especially who that I may note the antiquitie and manner of livery of Seisin in that age out of the very forme of his owne Donation For the full complement of his confirmation thereof laied upon the holy altar a turfe of that ground which he gave at Humantun Heere afterward sundry times arrived the Danes who piteously empoverished this Island by robbings and pillages and also polluted this Monasterie of Domneva with all kind of cruelty that it flourished not againe before the Normans government Heere also landed Lewis of France who called in by the tumultuous Barons of England against King Iohn published by their instigation a pretended right to the Crowne of England For that whereas King Iohn for his notorious treason against King Richard his brother absent in the Holy-land was by his Peeres lawfully condemned and therefore after the death of King Richard the right of the Crowne was devolved to the Queene of Castile sister to the said King Richard and that shee and her heires had conveied over their right to the said Lewis and his wife her daughter Also that King Iohn had forfeited his Kingdome both by the murther of his Nephew Arthur whereof he was found guilty by his Peeres in France and also by subjecting his Kingdomes which were alwaies free to the Pope as much as in him lay contrary to his oath at his Coronation and that without the consent of the Peeres of the Realme c. Which I leave to Historians with the successe of his expedition least I might seeme to digresse extraordinarily Neither must I passe over heere in silence that which maketh for the singular praise of the inhabitants of Tenet those especially which dwell by the roads or harbours of Margate Ramsgate and Brodstear For they are passing industrious and as if they were Amphibii that is both land creatures and sea creatures get their living both by sea and land as one would say with both these elements they be Fisher-men and Plough-men as well Husband-men as Mariners and they that hold the plough-taile in earing the ground the same hold the helme in steering the ship According to the season of the yeare they knit nets they fish for Cods Herrings Mackarels c. they saile and carry forth Merchandise The same againe dung and mannure their grounds Plough Sow harrow reape their Corne and they inne it Men most ready and well appointed both for sea and land and thus goe they round and keepe a circle in these their labours Futhermore whereas that otherwhiles there happen shipwrackes heere for there lie full against the shore those dangerous flats shallowes shelves and sands so much feared of Sailers which they use to call The Goodwinsands The Brakes The four-foots The whitdick c. these men are wont to bestir themselves lustily in recovering both ships men and Merchandize endangered At the mouth of Wantsum Southward which men thinke hath changed his channell over against the Isle stood a City which Ptolomee calleth RHVTVPIAN Tacitus PORTVS TRVTVLENSIS for Rhutupensis if Beatus Renanus conjectureth truely Antonine RHITVPIS PORTVS Ammianus Marcellinus RHVTVPIAH STATIO that is the Road of Rhutupiae Orosius THE HAVEN and City of Rhutubus the old English-Saxons as Beda witnesseth Reptacesler others Ruptimuth Alfred of Beverly nameth it Richberge we at this day Richborow Thus hath time sported in varying of one and the same name Whence this name should arise it is not for certaine knowen But seeing the places neere unto it as Sandwich and Sandiby have their denomination of Sandi I considering also that Rhyd Tufith in the British-tongue betokeneth a sandy fourd I would willingly if I durst derive it from thence This City seemed to have beene seated on the descent of an hill the Castle there stood overlooking from an higher place the Ocean which is now so farre excluded by reason of sandy residence inbealched with the tides that it comes hardly within a mile of it Right famous and of great name was this City while the Romans ruled here From hence was the usual passing out of Britan to France and the Neatherlands at it the Roman fleets arrived here it was that Lupicinus sent by Constantius the Emperour into Britaine for to represse the rodes and invasions of Scots and Picts both landed the Heruli and Batavians and Maesian regiments Heere also Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour to whom as Symmachus witnesseth the Senate decreed for pacifying Britan armed Statues on horse-backe arrived with his Herculij Iovij Victores Fidentes for these were names of Roman regiments Afterwards when the Saxon Pirates impeached entercourse of merchants and infested our coasts with continuall piracies the Second Legion Augusta which being remooved by the Emperour Claudius out of Germany had remained many yeares in Garrison at Isea Silurum in Wales was translattd hither and had a Provost of their owne heere under the great Lieutenant and Count of the Saxon shore Which Provostship happily that Clemens Maximus bare who being heere in Britan by the soldiers saluted Emperour slew Gratian the lawfull Emperour and was afterwards himselfe slaine by Theodosius at Aquileia For this Maximus it was whom Ausonius in the verses of Aquileia called the Rhutupine robber Maximus armigeri quondam sub nomine lixae Faelix quae tanti spectatrix laeta triumphi Fudisti Ausonio Rhutupinum Marte latronem
These lands whilom by violence of breach and ruines great Such change makes time and what is it that long time doth not eate A sunder fell men say where as they both in one did grow The Seas brake in by force and through the mids did overthrow Both townes and grounds And Italy forthwith from Sicily side Did cut and them with in-let streight doth still part and divide Plinie sheweth likewise of Isles that Cyprus was rent from Syria Eubaea from Baeotia Besbicus from Bythinia being parts before of the maine land But none of the old writers was ever able to avouch that Britaine was so severed from the Maine onely those verses of Virgil and Claudian before cited by me in the very first entrance into this worke together with the conjecture of Servius Honoratus doe insinuate so much And yet Dominicus Marius Niger and Master Iohn Twin a right learned man and whosoever he was that wrested these verses made of Scicilia unto Britaine are of this opinion Britannia quondam Gallorum pars una fuit sed pontus aestus Mutavere situm rupit confinia Nereus Victor abscissos interluit aequore montes Some time was Britannie A part of France But swelling tides on hie Have changed the site and Nereus he as Conquerour hath torne The confines quite and runnes betweene the cliffs a sounder worne Considering therefore that in this matter there is no assured ground upon certaine authoritie the learned by laying and comparing the like examples in such narrow Seas as this for searching out of the truth propose these and such like points duly to be weighed and considered First whether the nature of the soyle in both shores be the same which verily is found here to be even so For the shore of either side where the distance betweene is narrowest riseth up with loftie cliffes of the same matter as it were and colour so as they may seeme to have beene riven asunder Secondly How great the breadth is of the sea or streight Certes the streight heere is not much broader than either the streight of Gibraltar or of Scicily to wit twenty foure miles over so as at the first sight one would imagine that these lands were severed by the billowes of the raging counter-seas For that the land sunke downeward by earth-quakes I hardly dare thinke seeing that this our Northen climate of the world is seldome shaken with earth-quakes and those when they happen be never great Thirdly How deepe the streight is As the Streight of Sicilie is sounded in depth 80. paces so this of ours exceedeth not 25. fathom whereas the sea on both sides of it is much deeper Fourthly Of what nature the ground is in the bothoms stony sandy beachy or else oasy and muddy And whether there be beds or shelves of sand lying scattered in the said narrow sea I have learned of Sailers that there lieth but one banke and the same in the very mid-channell which at a low water is scarce 3. fathom deepe But within halfe a league to the South-ward it is 27. fathom deepe and to the North-ward 25. Lastly Whether any place in either of the two shores taketh name in the ancient language of a breach a plucking away division separation or such like as Rhegium which standeth upon the Sicilian Streight is named of the Greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to breake because in that place by the violent force of waves Sicilie was broken off from Italie But thinking as I doe heereof I can meet with none unlesse one would suppose that Vitsan upon the French shore had the name from Gwith which in the British tongue betokeneth a division or separation They that would have Britaine to have been the very continent of Gaule after that universall deluge argue from the wolves whereof there were many among us in old time like as at this day in Scotland and Ireland How say they could there be any of them in Ilands considering that all beasts and living creatures perished which were not in the Arke unlesse a long time after the earth had beene passable throughout and no Isles at all This question busied Saint Augustine but unto it he answereth thus Wolves and other beasts may bee thought to have swome over the sea unto Ilands yet onely to neere adjoyning Ilands as stags yearely for their reliefe and food swim out of Italy into Cicily But some Isles there be so far remote from maine lands that it is to be thought no beast could swim over If it should bee said men caught them and so brought them over with them it carrieth some credit that this might well have beene for the delight they had in hunting Although it cannot bee denied but by the commandement or permission of God even by the worke of Angels they might have beene transported But if so be they sprung out of the earth according to their first originall when as God said Let the earth bring forth a living soule then it appeareth much more evidently that all kind of living creatures were in the Arke not so much for the encrease and reparation of them as to figure out sundry Nations for the sacrament of the church in case the earth brought forth many creatures in those Ilands whereto they can not passe Thus Philosophizeth he Neither is any man able upon this argument to pronounce any thing more sufficiently and exquisitely For me it may suffice that I have propounded thereof let the Reader throughly waigh and examine it And hee that is able in this point to see deepest what is most true verily I will report him a man right skilfull and deepely quick-sighted On the other side in the Firme-land inhabited the MORINI so called in the ancient Gaules tongue as it were Maritimi sive Maris accolae men dwelling upon the Sea-coast or hard by the sea Their countrey is now termed Conto de Guines and Conte de Bolonois and had in old time two places of very great name to wit GESSORIACVM and ITIVM whence as Caesar hath recorded there was the best and most commodious passing out of Gaule or France into Britain and most Authors thinke it was that towne which now they call Callais But that famous and learned man Hospitalius Chancellour of France a very skilfull Antiquary avoucheth that Callais is no ancient towne but was only a small village such as the French-men terme Burgados untill that Philip Earle of Bolen walled it about not very many yeares before the English won it Neither is it red in any place that men tooke shipping there for Britaine before those times I thinke therefore that Itium is to bee sought some where else that is to say below at Vitsan neere unto Blacknesse which we call Whitsan the word sounding not much unlike to Itium For that all men crossed over out of this Iland thither and embarqued there to saile hither wee observed out of our owne histories in so much
Castle adjoyning hard unto it now named Stutfall which in the side and descent of a pretty hill tooke up about tenne acres of ground in compasse and the reliques of the wall remaine still of British bricke and flint so close laid and couched together with a kind of strong mortar made of lime sand and pibles that as yet time hath not given it the check and now although it be not an haven towne yet it retaineth still no small shew of the ancient dignitie it had For heere the Warden of the Cinque Ports at a place called Shipway useth to take his solemne oath when hee first entreth into his office and heere upon certaine set daies the custome was to decide causes betweene the inhabitants of the said Ports Some have thought that in this place a great river discharged it selfe into the sea for that one or two writers have made mention of the river Leman and the mouth of Leman at which the Danes Fleet in the yeare of our salvation 892. arrived But I suppose they are deceived in the description of the place both because there is no river heere but a very small one which streight waies being of no reckoning at all vanisheth as also for that the Archdeacon of Huntingdon a compendious authour and of good approved credit writeth that the said fleet arrived at the Haven Leman and saith not a word of the river Vnlesse a man would thinke with whom I dare not accord that the river Rother which intermingleth it selfe with the Ocean under Rhieine ran downe this way and changed his course by little and little when that champian plaine called Rumney Marsh grew unto the firme land this marsh-Marsh-country which from Lime containeth 14. miles in length and 8. in bredth and reckoneth two townes nineteene parishes and 44200. acres or there about by reason of ranke greene grasse most convenient for the grasing and feeding of beasts hath beene by little and little laied unto the land by the benefit of the sea Whereupon I may well and truely terme it the Seas-gift like as Herodotus called Aegypt the gift of the river Nilus and a very learned man termed the pastures of Holland the gifts of the North-wind and the river Rhene For the sea to make amends yeilded that againe in this place which it swallowed up else where in this coast either by retyring backe or by laying oze thereto from time to time as some places which in the remembrance of our grandfathers lay close unto the sea shore are now dis-joyned a mile or two from the sea How fruitful the soile is what a number of heards of cattel it feedeth that are sent thither from the furthest parts of Wale and England to be fatted what art and cunning is used in making of bankes to fence it against the violent risings of the sea one would hardly believe that hath not seene it And that it might be the better ordered certaine lawes of Sewers were made in the time of King Henry the third And King Edward the fourth ordained that it should be a Corporation consisting of a Bailive Iurates and the Communalty In the Saxons time the inhabitants thereof were called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Marshmen and verily the signification of that name accordeth passing well with the nature of the place Neither can I understand and conceive that ancient writer Aethelward when he reporteth That Cinulph King of the Mercians wasted Kent and the country which is called Mersc-warum And in another place That Herbyth a Captaine was by the Danes beheaded in a place named Mersc-warum if he meant not this very marsh-Marsh-country Rumney or Romeney and in former time Romenal which some conjecture by the name to have beene the Romans worke is the principall towne of this Marsh and one of the Cinque-ports whereof Old Romeney and Lid are accounted members which joyntly were charged with the setting forth of five ships of warre in that manner and forme as I have before said It is seated upon an hill of gravell and sand and had on the West side an haven of good receit and commodious withall for most of the winds before the sea with-drew it selfe from it The inhabitants as we read in King William the Conquerours booke were in regard of their sea service quitte and quiet from all custome beside for robbery peace-breach and Foristell And in those daies it flourished with the best For it was divided into twelue wards it had also five Parish-churches it had a Priorie and an Hospitall for sicke persons But in the reigne of Edward the first when the sea raging with violence of windes overflowed this tract and made pittifull waste of people of cattell and of houses in every place as having quite drowned Promhil a prety town well frequented it made the Rother also forsake his old channel which heere before time emptied himselfe into the sea and stopped his mouth opening a new and neerer way for him to passe into the sea by Rhie So as by little and little hee forsoke this towne Which ever since hath decreased and lost much of the forme frequency and ancient dignity Beneath this the land tending more East-ward maketh a Promontory we call it the Nesse as it were a nose before which lieth a dangerous flat in the sea and upon which standeth Lid a towne well inhabited whereunto the inhabitants of Promhill after that inundation aforesaid betooke themselves And in the very utmost point of this Promontory which the people call Denge-nesse where there is nothing but beach and pible stones Holme-trees grow plentifully with their sharp prickey leaves alwaies greene in manner of underwood for a mile and more Among the said beach neere unto Ston end is to be seene an heape of greater stones which the neighbour Inhabitants call Saint Cryspins and Crispinians tombe whom they report to have beene cast upon this shore by ship-wracke and from hence called into the glorious companie of Saints From thence the shore retyring it selfe is directly carried into the West bringing foorth peason among the beach which grow up naturally like clusters of grapes a number together and in tast little differ from our field peason and so runneth on as farre as to the Rother-Mouth by which for some space Kent is divided from Sussex The course of this river on Sussex side wee have in part briefely spoken of before On Kent side it hath Newenden which I almost parswade my selfe was that haven so long sought for and which the booke Notitia Provinciarū called ANDERIDA the old Britains Caer Andred and the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 first because the Inhabitants by a continued tradition constantly affirme it was a most ancient towne and Haven whereof they shew the plot then for that it is situate by the wood Andredswald that tooke the name of it lastly because the English-Saxons seeme to have termed it Brittenden that is The
seeing that it answereth backe againe with the encrease of an hundred fold that which is sowne Here may you see the high wayes and common lanes clad with apple-trees and peare-trees not set nor graffed by the industry of mans hand but growing naturally of their owne accord The ground of it selfe is enclined to beare fruits and those both in taste and beautie farre exceeding others whereof some will last a whole yeare and not wither and rivell so that they are serviceable untill new come againe for supply There is no countrey in all England so thicke set as this Province with Vine-yards so plentifull in encrease and so pleasant in taste The very wines thereof made affect not their mouthes that drinke of them with any unpleasing tartnesse as being little inferiour in sweetnesse and odour to the French wines The houses in it are almost innumerable the Churches passing faire and the townes standing very thicke But that which addeth unto all these good gifts a speciall glory is the river Severne than which there is not any one in this land for channell broader for streame swifter for fish better stored There is in it a daily rage and fury of the waters which I know not whether I may call a gulfe or whirle poole of waves and the same raising up the sands from the bothome winding and driving the same upon heapes commeth with a forcible violence and reacheth no further then to the bridge Sometimes also it overfloweth the bankes and when it hath roved about a great way it retireth backe as a conquerour of the land Vnhappy is that vessell which it taketh full upon the side The Water-men well ware hereof when they see that Higra comming for so they call it in English turne the vessell affront upon it and so cutting through the middest of it checke and avoide the violence thereof But that which hee saith of the hundred fold increase and yeeld of the ground doth not hold true Neither for all that would I thinke with these whining and sloathfull husbandmen whom Columella taketh up for it that the soile is now wearied and become barren with too much fruitfulnesse and over-free bearing in former ages Howbeit hereby if I should say nothing of other things it is to bee seene that wee have no cause to wonder why many places in this countrey and else-where in England are called Vine-yards seeing it hath affoorded wine and surely it may seeme to proceed rather of the Inhabitants idlenesse than any distemperature and indisposition of the ayre that it yeeldeth none at this day But why in some places within this Countrey as wee reade in our Statutes by a private custome which now is become of strong validitie as a law the goods and lands of condemned persons fall into the Kings hands for a yeare onely and a day and after that terme expired contrary to the custome of all England beside returne to the next heires let law-students and Statesmen looke to that for no part it is of my purpose to search thereinto Now I will take a superfiall survey such as I can of those three parts whereof I spake orderly one after another The part that lyeth more West beyond Severne which the Silures in old time possessed along the river Vaga or Wye that parteth England and Wales was wholy bespred with thicke tall woods we call it at this day Deane-forrest The Latine writers some name it of the Danes Danica Sylva the Danes wood others with Girald the Wood of Danubia But I would thinke if it had not this name of Dean a little towne adjoyning that by short cutting the word it was called Deane for Arden Which terme both Gauls and Britans in ancient times may seeme to have used for a wood considering that two mighty great woods the one in that part of Gaule called Gallia Belgica and the other among us in Warwick-shire are by one and the selfe same name termed Arden For this was a wonderfull thicke Forrest and in former ages so darke and terrible by reason of crooked and winding wayes as also the grisly shade therein that it made the inhabitants more fierce and bolder to commit robberies For in the reigne of Henry the sixt they so infested all Severne side with robbing and spoiling that there were lawes made by authority of the Parliament for to restraine them But since that rich Mines of Iron were heere found out those thicke woods began to wax thin by little and little In this Forrest upon the foresaid river stood Tudenham and Wollaston two townes of good antiquity which Walter and Roger the brethren of Gislebert Lord of Clare wrested out of the Welch-mens hands about the yeare 1160. As also Lidney is adjoyning to them where Sir William Winter Viceadmirall of England a renowned Knight for Sea-services as his brother Arthur slaine in Orkeney-Isles built a faire house But the most ancient towne of all others is ABONE or AVONE mentioned by Antonine the Emperour in his Iourney-booke which having not lost that name altogether is at this day called Aventon a small towne indeed but standing upon Severne just nine miles as hee writeth from VENTASILVRVM or Caer-went And seeing that Avon in the Brittish tongue importeth A River it shall be no strange thing if we thinke it so called of the river for in the very same signification that I may omit the rest we have Waterton Bourne and Riverton as the Latines had Aquinum and Fluentium And I suppose the rather that it tooke name of the river because people were wont at this place to ferry over the river whereupon the towne standing over against it is by Antonine called TRAIECTVS that is a passage or ferry but without doubt the number in that place set downe is corrupted For he maketh it nine miles betweene TRAIECTVS and ABONE whereas the river is scarce three miles broad It may seeme then to have beene utterly decaied or turned rather into a village either when as passengers began to ferry over below or when Athelstane thrust out the Welsh Britans from hence For hee was the first that drave them as William of Malmesbury witnesseth beyond the river Wye And where as before his time Severne was the bound betweene the English and Welshmen hee appointed Wye to be the limit confining them both Whence our Necham writeth thus Inde vagos vaga Cambrenses hinc respicit Anglos To Wales on this side looketh Wie On that againe our England he doth eye Not farre from Wye amongst blind by-wayes beset with thicke plumps of trees appeareth Breulis Castle more than halfe fallen downe remarkable for the death of Mahel youngest sonne of Miles Earle of Hereford For there his greedy devises bloody crueltie and covetousnesse ready to pray upon other mens estates for which vices hee is much blamed in Writers were overtaken with a just revenge from heaven For as Girald hath written being entertained guest-wise by
the Earledome of Oxford hath flourished a long time in the Family of Vere which derive their descent from the Earles of Guines and that surname from Vere a towne in Zeland They received the beginning of their greatnesse and honour here in England from King Henry the First who advanced Aubrey de Vere for his singular wisedome with sundry favours and benefits as namely with the Chamberlainship of England and Portgreveship of the City of London To his son Aubrey Henry the Second before hee was established King and when hee used onely this stile Henry Sonne to King Henries daughter right heire of England and Normandie restored first the Chamberlan-shippe which hee had lost in the civill broiles and then offered unto him which of the Titles he himselfe would choose of these foure Earledomes Dorset Wilshire Barkshire and Oxfordshire that he might divert him from Stephen then usurping the Kingdome and assure him to himselfe And in the end both Maude the Empresse and Henry also her son being now come to the Crowne by their severall Charters created him Earle of Oxford Among those that descended from him not to recount every one in their course and order these were they that purchased greatest fame and honour Robert de Vere who being in very high favour with King Richard the second was honoured with these new and strange dignities not heard of before namely Marquesse of Dublin and Duke of Ireland of which as one said he left nothing at all to himselfe but to his Tombe titles and to the world matter of talke For shortly after through the spitefull envy of the Nobles as much against the King as against him he was dispoiled of his estate and ended his dayes miserably in exile Iohn the First of that name so trusty and true to the House of Lancaster that both Hee and his Sonne and Heire Aubrey lost their heads therefore together in the First yeere of King Edward the Fourth Iohn his second Sonne a right skilfull and expert Martiall man neverthelesse was most firme and faithfull to the said House of Lancaster fought in sundry battells against King Edward the Fourth defended and made good for a while Saint Michaels Mount and was an especiall assistant unto Henry the Seaventh in attaining to the Kingdome Another Iohn likewise in the reigne of Henry the Eighth a Man in all parts of his life so sincere so religious and so full of goodnesse that hee gained the surname of the Good Earle Hee was great Grandfather of Henry that is now Earle and the Eighteenth of this race in Lineall discent and also Grandfather of Sir Francis and Sir Horatio Vere brethren who by their singular knowledge in Military affaires and exploits most valiantly and fortunately atchieved in the Low-Countries have added exceeding much honour and glory to themselves and to the ancient Nobility of their Family This Countie containeth Parish Churches 280. CATTIEUCHLANI VPon the DOBUNI Eastward there confined the people which Ptolomee calleth according to the diversity of copies CATTIEUCHLANI CATTIDUDANI CATHICLUDANI and Dio CATTUELLANI Which of these might bee the truest name I can not easily say Yet give me leave I pray you in this place to cast forth my conjecture although it is an abortive concerning this point I have beene of opinion that these were in old time called CASSII that of this Cassii their Prince was named Cassivellaunus or Cassibelinus for so wee finde it diversely written Also that of Cassivellaunus name this very people were by the Grecians termed Cattuellani Cathuellani and Cattieuchlani For among the Nations of Britaine Caesar reckoneth the CASSII who that they were seated in these parts it is most certaine and of whose name a prety portion of this Tract is at this day called Caishow And seeing that Cassivellaunus ruled this Country as it appeareth by Caesar and in the said name of his this denomination of CASSII doth most plainly bewray it selfe it may seeme probable enough that Cassivellaunus was so named as one would say The Prince of the Cassii And unlesse it were so why should Dio name this Cassivellaunus Suellan for Vellan and Ninnius the Britan call him not Cassibellinus but Bellinus as though that Bellinus were the proper name either of the Man or of his Dignity Neither let it seeme strange that Princes in old time tooke names of their owne Nations The Catti in Germanie had their Cattimarus the Teutons their Teutomarus and Teutobochus the Daci their Decebalus and the Goths their Gottiso And what should let but that our Cassii might have their Cassibelinus Considering that Belinus hath beene an usuall name in this Island and some have thought that Cunobelinus who reigned amongst the Iceni was so called as one would say the Belinus of the Iceni From this Cassivellaunus therefore if the Greeke writers have not wrested these names Cattuellani and Cattieuchlani c. I confesse that in this matter mine eye-sight fayleth mee altogether and I see plainely nothing But whence this people should come to bee named CASSII I know not unlesse happily it were of their Martiall prowesse For Servius Honoratus writeth that the ancient Gaules who spake the same language that Britans did called hardy and valiant men Gessos Whence Ninnius interpreteth Cethilou a Brittish word The seede of Warriours Now that these excelled in Warlike prowesse it is manifest for before Caesars comming they had warred continually with their Neighbours they had reduced part of the DOBUNI under their subjection the Britans had chosen their Prince Generall over all their forces in the Warre against Caesar and they had enlarged their Empire and name farre abroad every way For all those generally were knowne by the name of CASSII or CATTIEUCHLANI who now take up three Shires or Counties to wit Buckingham-shire Bedford-shire and Hertford-shire Of whom I am now to speake in order and that briefely because I have not much to say of any of them BUCKINGHAÌ„ Comitatus in quo olim insederunt CATTIEUCHLANI BVCKINGHAM-SHIRE WHereas Buckingham-shire is given to bring forth Beech trees plentifully which the English-Saxons in elder times called Bucken it may seeme conjecturally that Buckingham the chiefe Towne and so the whole shire tooke the name from Beech trees For there is a Country in Germany bearing Beech trees named Buchonia and with us a towne in Norfolke called Buckenham fruitfull of Beech as I have beene enformed This shire carrying but a small bredth runneth forth in length from the Tamis North-ward On the South-side it looketh into Barke-shire severed from it by the river Tamis on the West Oxford-shire from the North it hath Northhampton-shire and from the East first Bedford-shire then Hertford-shire and afterward Middle-sex The Country generally is of a rich plentifull soile and passing full of Inhabitants who chiefly employ themselves in graizing of cattell It is divided into two parts whereof the one bending into the South and East and rising into hills they call Chilterne in the English-Saxon
downe heere the maner of assaulting this Castle out of a writer who then lived and saw it to the end wee may understand with what devises and engines that age as wittie well neere as ours to worke men mischiefe used in their sieges of Townes On the East-side saith hee there was planted one Petrarie and two Mangonells which daily played upon the Towre and on the West-side two Mangonells which battered the old Towne also one Mangonell on the South part and another on the North which made two breaches and entries in the next walles Besides these there were two frames or engines of Timber made by Carpenters erected higher above the toppe of the Tower and Castle for Shootters in brakes and for discoverers There were moreover there many frames wherein shooters out of Brakes and slingers were set in await furthermore there was a frame or engine there called the Cat under which the Pioners and underminers had their ingresse and egresse whiles they digged under the Walles of Towre and Castle Now was this Castle taken by foure assaults In the first was the Barbican wonne in the second the out Ballie At the third fell the Wall downe neere the olde Towre by the meanes of the Miners where by the helpe of a chinke or breach with great daunger they became possessed of the inner Ballie At the fourth the Miners put fire under the Towre so that the smoke brake forth and the Towre was rent asunder in so much as the clifts and breaches appeared wide and then the enemies yeelded themselves Of these Mangonells Patraries Trabucks Bricols Espringolds and of that which our ancestors termed the Warwolse by which before that Gunnes were devised they discharged volies of mighty huge stones with great violence and so brake through strong walles much might heere be said were they not beside my purpose But my author proceedeth thus Falco remained Excommunicate untill he restored unto the King the Castle of Plumpton and Stoke-curcy with his plate of gold and silver both and such money as that he had and from thence was led to London Meane while the Sheriffe had commandement to demolish and rase the Towre and out Ballie As for the inward Ballie when the Bulwarks were cast downe and both Trench and Rampier laid levell with the ground it remained unto William Beauchamp for to dwell in The stones were graunted unto the Chanons of Newenham and Chaldwell and of Saint Pauls Church in Bedford Neither yet for all this is there any thing here more worth the seeing than the remaines of this Castle on the East side of the towne hanging over the river On both sides of Bedford stood two prety and very faire religious houses Helenstow now Eustow on the South part consecrated by Judith wife to Waltheof Earle of Huntingdon unto Helena Great Constantines Mother and to sacred Virgins on the East Newenham which Roise the wife of Paine de Beauchamp translated thither from Saint Paules within Bedford Ouse is not gone farre from hence but he seeth the tokens of a decayed Castle at Eaton which was another seate of the family de Beauchamp and bids Bedford-shire farewell hard by Bissemed where Hugh de Beauchamp and Roger his brother founded a little Monastery for the Chanons of Saint Austins order as appeareth by the Popes Bull. These stand on the farther side of Ouse which yet before from the South is augmented with a namelesse brooke at whose confluents is to be seene Temsford well knowne by reason of the Danes standing Campe and the Castle there which they then built when they wintering in Campe lay sore upon this Country and threw downe the Britans Fort as it is thought The place whereof now called Chesterfield and Sandie sheweth oftentimes peeces of Romane coyne as expresse tokens of the antiquity thereof Neither doe some doubt by the very situation but that this was that SALENAE which Ptolomee ascribeth to the Cattieuchlani if Salndy be the name as divers have avouched unto me Heere I overpasse Potton a little mercat towne because I finde nothing of it but that Iohn Kinaston gave it and the Lands adjoyning freely unto Thomas Earle of Lancaster Neither have I reason to make many words of such places as be situate upon this Brooke to wit Chicksand where Paine de Beauchamp built a little Monastery Shelford a mercat Wardon more inward where was a house of Cistertian monkes and was mother to the Abbaies of Saulterey Sibton and Tilthey Biglesward much spoken of and frequented for the horse Fayre there and the stone bridge From whence Stratton is not farre the mansion place in times past of the Barons Latimer afterward of the Enderbeies and from them hereditarily untill our time of the Pigotts Five miles from the head of this brooke in the very heart and middest well neere of the shire standeth Ampthill upon an hill a parcell of the Barony of Kainho heeretofore and lately a stately house resembling a castle and environed with Parks built by Sir Iohn Cornwale Baron Fanhop in the reigne of Henry the Sixth with the spoyles wonne from the French whose goods as I have read when Edward the Fourth had confiscated for taking part with the Familie of Lancaster and indited him or this house rather as Fanhop himselfe saith of high treason forthwith it was granted unto Edmund Grey Lord of Ruthin and afterwards Earle of Kent whose grandchild Richard passed both it and Ruthin over to King Henry the Seventh and he annexed the same unto the Kings Sacred Patrimony as the Civilians terme it or as our Lawyers use to say unto the Crowne and shortly after with the Lands appertaining it was made the Honour of Ampthil From hence more Northward lieth Haughton Conquest so called of a worshipfull and ancient family which a long time dwelt therein Westward is Woburn where now is a free schoole founded by Francis Earle of Bedford and where sometime flourished a notable monastery built by Henry de Bolebic for Cistercians who himselfe entred into this order Under which at Aspley Gowiz there is a kinde of earth men say that turneth wood into stones and for proofe and testimony thereof I have heard say there was a wooden ladder to be seene in that monastery that having lien a good while covered all over in that earth was digged forth againe all stone More into the East Tuddington sheweth a faire house goodly to be seene which Sir Henry Cheiney made by Queene Elizabeth Baron Cheyney of Tuddington built and shortly after died Sans-issue where also in old time Paulin Pever a Courtier and Sewer to King Henry the Third as Matthew Paris witnesseth built a strong house with the hall chappell chambers and other houses of stone and the same covered with lead with Orchards also and Parkes to it in such sort as it caused the beholders to wonder thereat We were not gone forward farre from hence but we came to Hockley
the neighbour Inhabitants in small or no stead untill being brought of late unto his ancient Chanell it is become more commodious for the carriages of all commodities c. Lea is not gone forward farre from Ware when he entertaineth a Riveret named Stort from the East which first runneth downe out of Essex by Bishops Stortford a small Towne fensed sometime with a little Castle set upon a mount cast up of purpose within a prety Island which Castle King William the Conquerour gave unto the Bishops of London and of those Bishops it came to be so called but King John for hatred to Bishop William overthrew it From thence it maketh his way by Sabridgworth a parcell of the Honor of Earle William Mandevile and sometime the possession of Geffrey Say neere Shingle-hall honested by the Owners the Leventhorpes of ancient Gentry So on not farre from Honsdon forfeited by Sir William Oldhall to the Crowne in the time of King Henry the Sixth which gave a Title of Baron Hunsdon to Sir Henry Cary through the favour of Queene Elizabeth unto whom he was Lord Chamberlaine as who verily besides his descent from the royall Family of the Dukes of Somerset was by his mother Mary Bolen cozen german to the said Queene Lea having thus admitted into him this Riveret hasteneth now with a merry glee to the Tamis under Hodesdon a faire through Faire to which H. Bourchier Earle of Essex having a faire house at Base thereby while it stood procured a Mercat and then as it were in gratulatory wise saluteth Theobalds commonly called Tibaulds which our Nestor of Britaine the right honourable Baron Burghley late Lord high Treasurer of England built an house if we respect the workmanship none more faire and elegant if the gardens Orchards and walkes bedight with Groves none more pleasant unto whom especially this River willingly acknowledgeth it selfe beholden for the recovery againe of his ancient Chanell But returne we now to places more within the Country and of greater antiquity From Hertford twelve miles Westward stood VEROLAMIUM a City in times past very much renowned and as greatly frequented Tacitus calleth it VERULAMIUM Ptolomee UROLANIUM and VEROLAMIUM well knowne this is in these dayes neere unto Saint Albans in Caisho Hundred which the CASSII of whom Caesar maketh mention in all probability held and inhabited The Saxons named it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the famous High-way Watlingstreet and also 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Neither hath it as yet lost that ancient name for commonly they call it Verulam although there remaineth nothing of it to bee seene beside the few remaines of ruined walles the checkered pavements and peeces of Roman Coine other whiles digged up there It was situate upon the gentle descent or side of an hill Eastward fenced about with passing strong wals a double Rampire and deepe Trenches toward the South and Eastward watered with a Brooke which in old time made a great Meere or standing Poole Whereby it was guessed that this was the very same towne of Cassibelaunus fortified with woods and marishes which Caesar wan For there was not to be seene any other Poole or Meere in this Tract to my knowledge In Nero his time it was counted a MUNICIPIUM whence it is that in Ninius his Catalogue of Cities it is named Caer-Municip So that probable it is that this was the very same CAER MUNICIPIUM which Hubert Golizius found in an old Inscription These Municipia were Townes endowed with the right of Romane Citizens and this name came A Muneribus capiendis that is of publique Offices and charges in the Common-wealth and they had for their States and Degrees * Decurions that is Gentlemen and Commons for their publique Councell a Senate and People For their Magistrates and Priests Duum-virj Trium-virj to sit in judgement and minister justice CENSORS AEDILES Quaestors and Flamins But whether this Municipium or towne enfranchised were with suffrages or without a man cannot easily affirme A Municip with suffrages they tearmed that which was capable of honourable Offices like as that other they called without suffrage which was not capable In the Raigne of the same Nero when Bunduica or Boadicia Queene of the Icenes in her deepe love of her Country and conceived bitter hatred against the Romanes raised bloudy and mortall Warre upon them it was rased and destroied by the Britans as Tacitus recordeth Hence it is that Suetonius wrote thus To these mischiefes so great proceeding from the Prince there happened to mend the matter a grievous losse in Britaine wherein two principall Towres of great importance with much slaughter of Romane Citizens and Allies were put to the sacke and spoiled Neverthelesse it flourished againe and became exceeding famous and passing well frequented yea and I have seene old Antiquities of money stamped as it seemeth heere with this inscription TASCIA and on the reverse VER Which that learned searcher of venerable antiquity David Powell Doctour in Divinity interpreteth to be The Tribute of Verulamium For Tasc as he teacheth me in the British or Welsh tongue soundeth as much as Tribute Tascia A Tribute Penny and Tascyd the chiefe Collector of Tribute But loe heere is the very peece of money portraied for you to see which heeretofore also I have exhibited Some would have this money to bee coined before the comming in of the Romans but I beleeve them not For I have alwaies thought them to bee Tribute money which being imposed upon the poll and the lands were yeerely exacted and gathered by the Romans as I have said before For before that the Romans came I can scarce beleeve the Britans coined or stamped any money Yet I remember what Caesar writeth of them And they use saith he brasse money or rings of iron weighed to a certaine poise Where the ancient bookes have Lanceis Ferreis for which the Criticks put in Laminis Ferreis that is plates of iron But let my pen returne againe to the matter proposed for my meaning is not heere to weave the same web still As for Verulam it was famous for nothing so much as for bringing foorth Alban a Citizen of singular holinesse and faith in Christ who when Dioclesian went about by exquisite torments to wipe Christian Religion quite out of the memory of men was the first in Britaine that with invincible constancy and resolution suffred death for Christ his sake Whereupon hee is called our Stephen and the Protomartyr of Britaine yea and Fortunatus Presbyter the Poet wrote thus of him Albanum egregium foecunda Britannia profert Fruitfull Britaine bringeth foorth Alban a Martyr of mickle worth And Hiericus a Frenchman who flourished 700. yeeres agoe of the same Alban and his executioner miraculously stricken blinde made these verses Millia poenarum Christi pro nomine passus Quem tandem rapuit capitis sententia caesi Sed non lictori cessit res tuta superbo Utque caput Sancto
againe forsaken by reason that another way through licence of the Bishops of London was laied open through High-gate and Bernet This Bernet for the beast mercat there kept beginneth now to be famous but it was more renowned for a field there fought when in the warre betweene the two Families of Lancaster and Yorke England dared to doe against her owne bowells whatsoever ambitious treachery and disloyaltie would command For upon Gledesmore hard by even on Easter day in the morning there was a bloudy battaile most fiercely fought and that with variable fortune for a great while by reason that a most thicke mist covered the face of the ground But in the end the victorie fell happily unto King Edward the Fourth by occasion that Richard Nevil Earle of Warwicke was there slaine whom as the favourable indulgence of Fortune made over-stout and bold yea and dangerous unto Kings so his death freed England from all feare of ciuill Warres Bernet hath for his neighbours Mimmes a seat of a Worshipfull Family of the Coningesbies descended to them by Frowick from the Knolles ancient possessours thereof and North-hall where Ambrose Dudley last Earle of Warwicke raised a stately house from the foundations This County of Hertford had Earles out of the Familie de Clare who notwithstanding were oftener called Earles of Clare from Clare in Suffolke their principall seate The first to my knowledge was Gilbert who under the title of Earle of Hertford is put downe as a witnesse in a Charter of King Stephens Likewise Roger de Clare in the time of King Henry the Second is in the Red-booke of the Exchequer named Earle of Hertford Likewise his successors whom you may see in their places But seeing both by right of inheritance and also through the Princes favour they attained to the Earledome of Glocester they bare both titles joyntly and were called unto Parliaments by the name of Earles of Glocester and Hertford And Richard de Clare who died in the yeere of our Lord 1262. is in plaine termes by Florilegus of Westminster called Earle of Glocester and of Hertford where he reporteth this Epitaph composed for him in that age to his great commendation Hic pâ—dâ—r Hippolyti Paridis gena sensus Vlyssis Aeneae pietas Hectoris ira jacet Chast Hyppolite and Paris faire Ulysses wife and slie Aeneas kinde fierce Hector here jointly entombed lie But not long since King Henry the Eighth honoured Sir Edward de Saint Maur or Seymâ—r with the title of Earle of Hertford who also was created Duke of Somerseâ— by King Edward the Sixth After whom succeeded in this Earledome his Sonne bearing the same name a right Honourable personage and a singular lover of Learning This Countiâ— hath Parishes 120. TRINOBANTES THey whom Caesar calleth TRINOBANTES Ptolomee and Tacitus TRINOANTES were next neighbours to the Cattieuchlani inhabiting in those countries which now having changed their names are commonly termed Middlesex and Essex Whence that ancient name sprung I dare not verily so much as guesse unlesse it come of the British word Tre-Nant which is as much as Townes in a vale For this whole region in a maner lieth low in a valley upon the Tamis But I doe not greatly please my selfe in this my conjecture And yet they that inhabited Galloway in Scotland lying altogether lowe in vallies were of old time in the British tongue called Noantes and Novantes and in the Vaile of Rhine in French named Le Vaule the people in old time called Nantuates had both their abode and their name thence so that this conjecture of mine may seeme as probable as that of others who over curiously have derived Trinobantes of Troy as a man would say Troia Nova that is New Troy But I wish them well and that heerein they may please themselves These were in Caesars time of all these countries well neere the strongest City or State for evermore he termeth by the name of Civitas a whole people living under the same lawe and their King in those daies was Immanuentius who being slaine by Cassibelinus his sonne Mandubratius saving his life by flight went into Gaule to Caesar and putting himselfe under his protection returned with him into Britaine At which time these Arinobantes petitioned Caesar by their Ambassadors that he would defend Mandubratius from the injuries of Cassibelinus and resend him to the State that he might be Governour and beare rule over them which being done they gave forty Hostages and were the first of all the Britanes that yeelded themselves under his allegeance This Mandubratius that I may note so much by the way is evermore called by Eutropius Bede and the later writers Androgeus But whence this diversitie of the name should arise I am altogether ignorant unlesse that be true which I have learned from a very skilfull man in the British history and language both that this name Androgeus was given unto him for his lewdnesse and perfidious treason For the signification of wickednesse doth most plainely shew it selfe in it And in the Booke of Triades among the three Traitors of Britaine he is counted the most villanous in that he was the first that made way to bring the forraine Romanes into Britaine and betraied his Country After Mandubratius when as now by reason of hote ciuill warres Britaine was neglected of the Romanes and left unto his owne Princes and lawes certaine it is that Cunobeline ruled as King in these parts of whose coine I exhibit heere unto you one or two peeces although I have already shewed the very same and others heeretofore Admimus this mans Sonne banished by his Father fled with a small retinue about him to the Romane Emperour Cajus Caligula and yeelded himselfe Which so puffed up the young Emperours minde that as if all the Island had absolutely and wholly yeelded into his hands he sent glorious letters to Rome admonishing oftentimes the bearers thereof not to deliver them unto the Consuls but in the Temple of Mars and in a frequent assembly of the Senate When Cunobelinus was dead Aulius Plautius by commission from Claudius the Emperour set upon this Country One of Cunobilinus his Sonnes named Togodumnus he slew and another called Catacratus he overthrew in the field over whom also as we finde in the Capitollin Record of the Romane Triumphes he rode Ovant in triumph and that with so great honour as Suetonius writeth that Claudius the Emperour went side by side with him both in his going to the Capitoll and also in his returne from thence And he himselfe shortly after transporting his forces hither brought these parts within few Moneths into the forme of a Province Thence-forth the Trinobantes rested a while in peace but that under the Empire of Nero they privily entered into a conspiracy with the Iceni to shake off the Romanes yoke But Suetonius Paulinus as Tacitus recordeth quickly quenched this flame of sedition with a great
he fetcheth almost a round compasse with a great winding reach taketh into him the River Lea at the east bound of this Countie when it hath collected his divided streame and cherished fruitfull Marish-medowes Upon which there standeth nothing in this side worth the speaking of For neither Aedelmton hath ought to shew but the name derived of Nobility nor Waltham unlesse it be the Crosse erected there for the funerall pompe of Queene Aeleonor Wife to King Edward the First whereof also it tooke name Onely Enfeld a house of the Kings is here to be seene built by Sir Thomas Lovel knight of the order of the Garter and one of King Henry the Seventh his Privy Counsell and Durance neighbour thereunto a house of the Wrothes of ancient name in this Countie To Enfeld-house Enfeld-chace is hard adjoyning a place much renowned for hunting the possession in times past of the Magnavils Earles of Essex afterwards of the Bohuns who succeeded them and now it belongeth to the Duchie of Lancaster since the time that Henry the Fourth King of England espoused one of the daughters and coheires of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and Essex of that surname And there are yet to be seene in the middest well nere of this Chase the rubbish and ruines of an old house which the vulgar sort saith was the dwelling place of the Magnavils Earles of Essex As for the title of Midlesex the Kings of England have vouchsafed it to none neither Duke Marquis Earle or Baron In this County without the City of London are reckoned Parishes much about 73. Within the City Liberties and Suburbes 121. ESSEXIA COMITATVS QVEM olim TRINOBANTES tenuerunt Continens in se opida marcatoria xx Pagos et Villas ccccxiiii vna Cunt singulis hundredis et flu minibus in â—odem ESSEX THE other part of the Trinobantes toward the East called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the Norman language Exssesa of the situation toward the East and the Saxons which inhabited it and commonly Essex is a Country large in compasse fruitfull full of Woods plentifull of Saffron and very wealthy encircled as it were on the one side with the maine Sea on the other with fishfull Rivers which also doe affoord their peculiar commodities in great abundance On the North side the River Stour divideth it from Suffolke on the East the Ocean windeth it selfe into it On the South part the Tamis being now growne great secludeth it from Kent like as in the West part the little River Ley from Midlesex and Stort or Stour the lesse which runneth into it from Hertfordshire In describing of this Country according to my methode begunne first I will speake of the memorable places by Ley and the Tamis afterwards of those that bee further within and upon the Sea-coast By Ley in the English Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 there stretcheth out a great way in length and breadth a Forest serving for game stored very full with Deere that for their bignesse and fatnesse withall have the name above all other In times past called it was by way of excellency Foresta de Essex now Waltham Forest of the towne Waltham in the Saxons speech 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 A wilde or wooddy habitation This standeth upon Ley where by dividing his Chanell hee maketh divers Eights or Islands and is not of any great Antiquity to make boast of For when the Kingdome of the Saxons beganne to decay one Tovie a man of great wealth and authority as wee reade in the private History of the place The Kings Staller that is Standerd bearer for the abundance of wilde beasts there first founded it and planted threescore and sixe indwellers therein After his death Athelstane his sonne quickly made a hand of all his goods and great estate and King Edward the Confessour gave this Towne to Harold Earle Goodwins sonne and streight wayes an Abbay was erected there the worke and Tombe both of the said Harold For he being crept up by the errour of men and his owne ambition to regall Dignity built this Abbay in honour of an Holy Crosse found farre Westward and brought hither as they write by miracle Heerein made he his prayers and vowes for victory when hee marched against Normans and being soone after slaine by them was by his mother who had with most suppliant suite craved and obtained at the Conquerours hands his Corps here entombed But now it hath a Baron namely Sir Edward Deny called lately unto that honour by King Iames his Writ Over this Towne upon the rising of an Hill standeth Copthall and yeeldeth a great way off a faire sight to seed mens eyes This was the habitation in times past of Fitz-Aucher and lately of Sir Thomas Heneage Knight who made it a very goodly and beautifull house Neere unto this River also was seated no doubt DUROLITUM a Towne of antique memory which the Emperour Antonine maketh mention of but in what place precisely I am not able to shew For the ancient places of this County I tell you once for all before hand lye hidden so enwrapped in obscurity that I who elsewhere could see somewhat heerein am heere more than dim-sighted But if I may give my guesse I would thinke that to have beene DUROLITUM which retaining still some marke of the old name is called at this day Leyton that is The Towne upon Ley like as Durolitum in the British Tongue signifieth The water Ley. A small Village it is in these daies inhabited in scattering wise five miles from London for which five through the carelesse negligence of transcribers is crept into Antonine xv That there was a common passage heere in times past over the River a place nigh unto it called Ouldfourd seemeth to proove in which when Queene Mawd wife to King Henry the First hardly escaped danger of drowning shee gave order that a little beneath at Stretford there should bee a Bridge made over the water There the River brancheth into three severall streames and most pleasantly watereth on every side the greene medowes wherein I saw the remaines of a little Monasterie which William Montfichet a Lord of great name of the Normans race built in the yeere of our Lord 1140. and forthwith Ley gathering it selfe againe into one chanell mildely dischargeth it selfe in the Tamis whereupon the place is called Leymouth The Tamis which is mightily by this time encreased doth violently carry away with him the streames of many waters hath a sight to speake onely of what is worth remembrance of Berking which Bede nameth Berecing a Nunnery founded by Erkenwald Bishop of London where Roding a little River entreth into the Tamis This running hard by many Villages imparteth his name unto them as Heigh Roding Eithorp Roding Leaden Roding c. of the which Leofwin a Nobleman gave one or two in times past to
minde that this Ithancester was that OTHONA where a Band of the Fortenses with their Captaine in the declination of the Romane Empire kept their station or Guard under the Comes or Lieutenant of the Saxon-shore against the depredations of the Saxon Rovers For the altering of OTHONA to ITHANA is no hard straining and the situation thereof upon a Creeke into which many Rivers are discharged was for this purpose very fit and commodious and yet heere remaineth a huge ruine of a thicke Wall whereby many Romane Coines have beene found It seemeth not amisse to set downe how King Edward the Confessour graunted by a briefe Charter the keeping of this Hundred to Ranulph Peperking which I will willingly heere annex to the end that wee who sift every pricke and accent of the law may see the upright simplicity and plaine dealing of that age And thus goeth the tenour of it as it was taken forth of the Kings Records in the Exchequer but by often exemplifying and copying it out some words are mollified and made more familiar Iche Edward Koning Have given of my Forrest the keeping Of the Hundred of Chelmer and Dancing To Randolph Peperking and to his kindling With heorte and hinde doe and bocke Hare and Foxe Cat and Brocke Wild Fowell with his flocke Partrich Fesant hen and Fesant cocke With green and wilde stob and stocke To kepen and to yemen by all her might Both by day and eke by night And Hounds for to hold Good and swift and bolde Four Greahounds and six racches For Hare and Foxe and wild Cattes And therefore ich made him my booke Witnesse the Bishop Wolston And booke ylered many on And Swein of Essex our Brother And teken him many other And our Stiward Howelin That by sought me for him This was the plaine dealing trueth and simplicity of that age which used to make all their assurances whatsoever in a few lines and with a few gilt Crosses For before the comming in of the Normans as wee read in Ingulphus writings Obligatory were made firme with golden Crosses and other small signes or markes but the Normans began the making of such Bils and Obligations with a Print or Seale in wax set to with every ones speciall Signet under the expresse entituling of three or foure Witnesses Before time many houses and land thereto passed by grant and bargaine without script Charter or Deede onely with the Landlords sword or helmet with his horne or cup. Yea and many Tenements were demised with a spurre or horse-cury-combe with a bowe and some with an arrow In the Creeke of Blackwater which as I said closeth the North side of this Hundred and is stored with those dainty Oysters which wee call Walfleot Oysters their run two Rivers that water a great part of the Shire Chelmer and Froshwell The River Chelmer flowing out of the inner part of the country which is woody runneth downe first by Thaxted a little Mercate Towne seated very pleasantly upon an high rising hill also by Tiltey where Maurice Fitz-Gilbert founded in times past a small Abbay unto Estanues ad Turrim now Eston which noble Gentleman sirnamed De Lovaine inhabited as descended from Godfrey of Lovaine brother to Henry the Sixth of that name Duke of Brabant who being sent hither to keepe the Honor of Eye his posterity flourished among the Peeres of this Realme to the time of King Edward the Third when the heire generall was married into the house of Bourchier Thence it glideth downe to Dunmow of old time called Dunmawg and in the Tax booke of England Dunmaw a Towne pleasantly situate upon an hill with a prety gentle fall Where one Juga founded a Priory in the yeare 1111. But William Bainard of whom Juga held thus we finde it written in the private history of this Church the Village of little Dunmow by felony lost his Barony and King Henry the First gave it to Robert the sonne of Richard sonne to Gislebert Earle of Clare and to his heires with the honour of Bainards Castle in London which Robert at that time was King Henries Sewar These be the very words of the Author neither doe I thinke it lawfull for me to alter or reforme them otherwise than they are although there be in them some 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a putting or mistaking of one time for another a thing that we meet with otherwhiles in the best Historiographers For there had not beene as then any Earle of Clare in the family of Clare Now let us for a while digresse and goe aside a little on either hand from the River Not farre from hence is Plaisy seated so called in French of Pleasing in times past named Estre the habitation both in the last yeeres of the English Saxons and also afterwards of the great Constables of England as witnesseth Ely booke At this towne the first William Mandevill Earle of Essex beganne a Castle and two Princes of great authority Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester and Earle of Essex who founded heere a College and Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon brother to King Richard the Second by the mothers side deprived of lost honorable title of Duke of Excester when they could not keepe a meane betweene froward stubbernesse and servile obsequiousnesse found thence their subversion For Thomas upon his rash and head-strong contumacy was on a sudden violently carryed from hence to Calice and there smothered and John for a seditious conspiracy was beheaded in this place by King Henry the Fourth that hee might seeme to have beene justly punished by way of satisfaction for the said Thomas of Woodstocke of whose death hee was thought to bee the principall practiser and procurer From thence passeth Chelmer downe not farre from Leez a little Abbay of old time founded by the Gernons which at this day is the chiefe seat of the Barons Rich who acknowledge themselves for this dignity beholden to Richard Rich a most wise and judicious person Lord Chancellor of England under King Edward the Sixth who in the first yeere of his raigne created him Baron Rich. A little beneath standeth Hatfield Peverell so denominated of Randulph Peverell the owner thereof who had to wife a Lady of incomparable beauty in those daies the daughter of Ingelricke a man of great nobility among the English-Saxons This Lady founded heere a College which now is in manner quite plucked downe and in a window of the Church whereof there remaineth still a small part lyeth entombed She bare unto her husband William Peverell Castellane of Dover Sir Payne Peverell Lord of Brun in the County of Cambridge and unto King William the Conquerour whose Paramore shee was William Peverell Lord of Nottingham But now returne we to Chelmer which by this time speedeth it selfe to Chelmerford commonly Chensford where by the distance of the place from CAMALODUNUM it may seeme that old CANONIUM sometimes stood This is a good bigge Towne situate in the
money and Title by his wife Beatrice the eldest daughter of William de Say who was the sisters sonne of that great Geffrey de Magnavill the first Earle of Essex This Fitz-Petre a man as an old Authour writeth Passing well monied had formerly dealt with the Bishop of Ely the Kings chiefe Justicer for a great peece of money presently paid and by intreaty beside and then claimed and demanded the Earledome in his wives right as being the daughter of William Say eldest brother to Geffrey Say Who gave him full Seisin thereof against Geffrey Say and required the money that hee promised which within a short time hee received of him every penny well and truely paid for to bee brought into the Kings coffers Thus being admitted and confirmed by the Kings Letters Patent hee held and possessed it taking Homage of all that held of him in Knights service And so was girt with the sword of the Earledome of Essex by King John at the solemnity of his Coronation This Geffrey Fitz-Petre was advanced to the high estate of Justicer of England by King Richard the First when hee removed Hubert Archbishop of Canterbury from that Office by the Popes peremptory command for that Bishops ought not to intermedle in secular affaires This Place the said Geffrey Fitz-Petre executed with great commendation preserving by his wisedome the Realme from that confusion which it after fell into by King Johns unadvised carriage His two Sonnes Geffrey and William assumed unto them the sirname of Magnavill or Mandevill and enjoyed this honour successively As for Geffrey hee by his wife was Earle of Glocester also and being a young man lost his life at a Turneament William tooke part with Lewis of France against King John and departed out of this World without issue These being thus dead childelesse their sisters sonne Humfrey de Bohun Earle of Hereford and high Constable of England succeeded in their roome Of this mans Posterity male there succeeded many yeares together one after another Earles of Hâ—reford and of Essex of whom I will speake among the Earles of Hereford seeing that they wrote themselves Earles of Hereford and of Essex Aeleonor the eldest daughter of the last of these Bohuns being given in marriage together with the Title of Essex unto Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester bare unto him a daughter named Anne who had for her first Husband Edmund Earle of Stafford from whom came the Dukes of Buckingham and for her second Sir William Bourchier unto whom King Henry the Fifth gave the Earledome of Ew in Normandie This William of her body begat Henry Bourchier whom King Edward the fourth invested in the Dignity of the Earledome of Essex in regard hee had marryed his Aunt and was descended from Thomas of Woodstocke Hee had to succeede him another Henry his Grand-childe who being cast out of the sadle by a flinging horse lost his life leaving behinde him one onely daughter Anne who being then little respected King Henry the Eighth presently and all at once made Thomas Cromwell whom hee had used as his Instrument to suppresse and abolish the Popes authority Earle of Essex Lord Great Chamberlaine of England and Knight of the Order of Saint George whom before for his reaching politique head hee had made Baron Cromwell of Okâ—ham The Kings Vicar generall in Spirituall matters and Lord of the Privie Seale and all these honours were heaped upon him within the compasse of five yeares But in the fifth moneth after hee was Earle hee lost his head and so had the enterlude of his life a bloudy Catastrophe as most of these have who are busie managers of the greatest affaires And then the same King thought Sir William Parr upon whom hee had bestowed in marriage Anne the onely daughter and heire of the foresaid Henry Bourâ—â—ier worthy also to be entituled Earle of Essex But at the last after Parr was dead without issue Walter D'Eureux Vicount Hereford whose great Grandmother was Cecilie Bourgchier Sister to Henrie Bourgchier whom I named right now through the gracious favour of Queene Elizabeth received this dignitie of the Earledome of Essex and left it to his Sonne Robert Who being adorned with singular gifts of nature and supported besides with the speciall favour of his most gracious Prince grew so fast unto such honour that all England conceived good hope hee would have fully equalled yea and farre surpassed the greatest vertues and praises of all his Progenitours But alas whiles he was carried away with popularity and made hast to out goe his hopes hee cast himselfe headlong into destruction as many more have done who despising that which might come by patience with securitie have made choise to hasten thereto before time with their finall overthrow But our most gracious Soveraigne King Iames of his Royall benignitie hath restored his sonne Robert to his bloud and honours by Parliament authority There be counted in this County Parish Churches 415. ICENI THe Region next unto the Trinobantes which afterwards was called East-England and containeth Suffolke Norfolke and Cambridge-shire with Huntingdon-shire was inhabited in times past by the ICENI called elsewhere amisse TIGENI and in Ptolomee more corruptly SIMENI whom also I have thought heeâ—etofore to have been in Caesar by a confused name termed CENIMAGNI and so to thinke induced I was partly by that most neere affinity betweene these names ICENI and CENI-MAGNI and in part by the consent of Caesar and Tacitus together For Caesar writeth that the Cenimagni yeelded themselves unto the Romans which Tacitus recordeth that the Iceni likewise did in these words They willingly joyned in amity with us But that which maketh most to the cleering of this poynt in a Manuscript old booke for CENIMAGNI we finde written with the word divided in twaine CENIAGNI For which if I might not be thought somewhat too bould a Criticke I would reade instead thereof ICENI REGNI Neither verily can you finde the Cenimagni elsewhere in all Britain if they be a diverse people from the Iceni and Regni But of this name ICENI there remaine in this tract very many footings if I may so tearme them as Ikensworth Ikenthorpe Ikbortow Iken Ikining Ichlingham Eike c. Yea and that high street-way which went from hence the Historians of the former age every where doe name Ichenild-Street as one would say the Icenes street What should be the reason of this name so love me Truth I dare not guesse unlesse one would fetch it from the Wedge-like-forme of the country and say it lieth Wedgwise vpon the Sea For the Britans in their language call a Wedge Iken and for the same cause a place in Wales by the Lake or Meere Lhintegid is of that forme named Lhan-yken as Welsh-Britans enformed me and in the very same sense a little country in Spaine as Strabo writeth is cleped SPHEN that is The wedge and yet the same seemeth not to resemble a wedge so neere as this of
ours doth A mighty nation this was as saith Tacitus and after they had betaken themselves to the protection of the Romans never shaken nor troubled unto Claudius his time For then when as Ostorius the Romane Lieutenant raised fortifications vpon the rivers and disarmed the Britans they assembled their forces and made head against him but after that the Romanes had broken through the rampier wherewith they had fenced themselves they were vanquished not without great slaughter In which fight verily they performed many worthy acts and M. Ostorius the Lieutenants sonne wonne the honour of saving a Citizens life When this warre was thus husht scarce 13. yeeres had gone over their heads when a new tempest of warre arose upon these occasions Prasutagus King of these Iceni to secure though it were with the hurt of his own private estate his kinred from calamity ordained by his last will and testament Nero the Emperor to be his heire supposing that by this obsequious service of his let Tacit. speak for me a while his Kingdom and house both should be safe from all injury which fell out cleane contrary so that his Kingdome was wasted by the Centurions and his house by slaves as if they had been subdued by force And now first of all his wife Boodicia who also is called Bunduica was whipped and her daughters defloured All the principall men of the Iceni as though they had received the whole Country in free gift were stript of their goods and turned out of their ancient inheritance those also of the Kings stocke and bloud accounted no better than bondslaves By occasions of which grievous injuries and for fear of greater indignities for so much they had been reduced into the forme of a province in all hast they tooke armes having withall sollicited the Trinobantes to rebellion and others also who had not as yet been inured to bondage These by privie conspiracies agreed to resume their libertie being incensed with most bitter and deadly hatred against the old souldiers planted at Maldon above said Thus began a most dangerous warre to kindle which was set more on a light fire by the greedy covetousnesse of Seneca who about that time exacted with extremitie 400000. Sesterces an hundred times told which amount to three hundred thousand pounds of our money so increased by his biting usurious contracts In this warre that I may be briefe that Boodicia whom Gildas seemeth to call the crafty Lionesse wife to Prasutagus slew outright of Romanes and their associates fourescore thousand rased Caimalodunum their Colonie and the free towne Verulamium The ninth Legion she discomfited and put to flight Catus Decianus the Procuratour but at length she being put to the worst by Suetonius Paulinus in a pitched field with an invincible courage and resolution died as Tacitus writeth by drinking a cup of poison or as Dio saith by sicknesse In the heat of this war Xiphilinus recordeth out of Dio that the Britans especially worshipped the Goddesse VICTORIE under the name of ANDATES which the Greeke booke in another place calleth Andrastes also that in her sacred grove they sacrificed prisoners alive in most barbarous and savage maner And yet the Britans in these daies acknowledge no such name of Victorie neither know I what the meaning of it should be unlesse as the Latins have called Victorie Victoriam à vincendo that is of winning the Sabins acunam ab Vevacuando that is of emptying and making riddance and the Grecians NIKHN 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is of not yeelding or giving backe so the Britans named it Anaraith of overthrowing For so they terme a mischievous and deadly overthrow But thus much slightly by the way From those times ever since no mention is there in authors of the Iceni neither can any thing by reading be found but that the Romans when their Empire went apace to decay did set a new officer over the sea coasts along these and other countries to restraine the piracies and robberies of the Saxons whom as I have said heeretofore they called Comes of the Saxons shore along Britaine But when the English Saxons now had established their Heptarchie in this Iland this province became part of the Kingdome of East Angles which of the site thereof Eastward they named in their language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of East English and it had for the first King thereof Vffa whence his successors were a long time called Vff Kines who seem to have been Vassals sometimes to the Kings of Mercia and sometimes to the Kings of Kent Whose offspring being come to an end in S. Edmund the Danes overran this country most piteously for the space of 50. yeares or thereabout afflicting it with all the calamities that accompany the wars untill that King Edward the elder having subdued them united it at length to his owne Kingdom of the West-Saxons But afterwards it had peculiar Presidents and Governors which honorable place at the first comming in of the Normans and a while after one Ralph born in the lesser Britain held a man of a perfidious disposition and disloyall who at a celebration of a marriage in most sumptuous manner wickedly with many moe conspired the death of William the Conqueror but in vaine it was to hope for secrecy and trust among so many privie to the conspiracy For it was discovered and he deprived of his dignity was attainted and the rest beheaded But these things are to bee handled more at large by the Historians and now let us goe in hand with that which belongeth properly to our purpose that is the places themselves What kind of country this was behold how Abbo Floriacensis who lived in the yeare of Christ 970. hath pictured out in these words This part which is called East Angle or East England is renowned as for other causes so in this regard that it is watered almost on every side being on the Southeast and East environed with the Ocean and on the North-east with huge Fennes soked in moisture which rising by reason of the levell ground from the mids in manner of all Britaine for the space of a hundred miles and more doth descend with the greatest rivers into the sea But of that side which lieth Westward the Province it selfe is continuate to the rest of the Iland and therefore passable throughout but least it should be overrun with the often irruptions and breakings in of enemies it is fensed along with a banke like unto a wall and a Trench Inwardly the soile is fruitfull enough and the country of a passing fresh hue with pleasant Orchards Gardens and groves most delectable for hunting notable for pastures and not meanly stored with sheepe and other cattell I say nothing of the fishfull rivers considering that of the one side the sea licketh it with his Tongue and of the other side there are by reason of the broad Fennes and wide Marishes an infinite
and the chiefe Magistrate was termed a Consul which name may intimate that it was a Roman towne But when Bishop Herbert surnamed Losenga for that he was composed of Leafing and Flattery the third Prelate that by evill meanes and Simony climbed up to this Dignity had removed his seat from hence to Norwich it fell againe to decay and as it were languished Neither could it sufficiently bee comforted for the absence of the Bishop by the Abbay of Cluniac Monkes which by his meanes was built This Abbay Hugh Bigod built out of the ground For so writeth he in the Instrument of the foundation I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry by his graunt and by the advise of Herbert Bishop of Norwich have ordained Monkes of the Order of Cluny in the Church of S. Mary which was the Episcopall seat of Thetford which I gave unto them and afterwards founded another more meete for their use without the Towne Howbeit even then the greatest part of the Citty that stood on the hithermore Banke by little and little fell to the ground the other part although it was much decayed yet one or two Ages agoe flourished with seaven Churches besides three small religious Houses whereof the one was by report erected in the memoriall of the Englishmen and Danes slaine here For hard by as our Historians doe record Edmund that most holy King a litle before his death fought Seaven houres and more with the Danes not without an horrible slaughter and afterwards gave over the battaile on even hand such was the alternative fortune of the Field that it drave both sides past their senses By Waveney the other River of those twaine that bound this Shire and runneth Eastward not farre from the Spring head thereof are seene Buckenham and Keninghall This which may seeme to have the name left unto it of the Iceni is the Seat of that most honourable Family of the Howards whose glory is so great that the envy of Bucchanan cannot empaire it As for the other so named as I take it of Beech trees which the Saxons called Bucken it is a faire and strong Castle built by William de Aubigny the Norman unto whom the Conqueror had given the place and by his heires that were successively Earles of Arundell it descended to the Tatsalls and from them by Caly and the Cliftons unto the family of the Knevets These are of an ancient house and renowned ever since Sir Iohn Knevet was Lord Chancellour of England under King Edward the Third and also honourably allied by great marriages For over and beside these of Buckenham from hence sprang those right worshipfull knights Sir Thomas Knevet Lord Knevet Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire and Sir Thomas Knevet of Ashellwell Thorpe and others This Ashellwell Thorpe is a little Towne nere adjoyning which from the Thorpes in times past of Knights degree by the Tilneis and the L. L. Bourchiers of Berners is devolved at length hereditarily unto that Sir Thomas Knevet before named As for that Buckenham aforesaid it is holden by this tenure and condition that the Lords thereof should at the Coronation of the Kings of England be the Kings Butlers that day Like as a thing that may beseeme the noting in Charleton a little neighbour village Raulph de Carleton and some one other held lands by this service namely To present an hundred Herring-Pies or Pasties when Herrings first come in unto their Soveraigne Lord the King wheresoever he be in England But this river neare to his spring runneth by and by under Disce now Dis a prety towne well knowne which King Henry the First gave frankely to Sir Richard Lucy and hee straightwayes passed it over to Walter Fitz-Robert with his Daughter of whose Posterity Robert Fitz-Walter obtained for this place the liberty of keeping Mercat at the hands of King Edward the First From thence although Waveney bee on each side beset with Townes yet there is not one amongst them that may boast of any Antiquity unlesse it bee Harleston a good Mercate and Shelton that standeth farther of both which have given surnames to the ancient Families of the Sheltons and Harlestons but before it commeth to the Sea it coupleth it selfe with the river Yare which the Britans called Guerne the Englishmen Gerne and Iere of Alder trees no doubt so termed in British wherewith it is overshadowed It ariseth out of the mids of this Countrie not farre from Gernston a little Towne that tooke name thereof and hath hard by it Hengham which had Lords descended from Iohn Marescall Nephew by the brother to William Marescall Earle of Penbroch upon whom King John bestowed it with the Lands of Hugh de Gornay a Traitour and also with the daughter and coheire of Hubert de Rhia From this Marescals it passed in revolution of time unto the Lord Morleis and from them by Lovell unto the Parkers now Lords Morley A little from hence is Sculton otherwise called Burdos or Burdelois which was held by this Tenure That the Lord thereof on the Coronation day of the Kings of England should be chiefe Lardiner Joint-neighbour to Sculton is Wood-Rising the faire seate of the Family of Southwels which received the greatest reputation and encrease from Sir Richard Southwell Privie Councellour to King Edward the Sixth and his Brother Sir Robert Master of the Rowles More Eastward is to be seene Wimundham now short Windham famous for the Albineys Earles of Arundell there enterred whose Ancestor and Progenitor William D' Albiney Butler to King Henry the First founded the Priory and gave it to the Abbay of Saint Albans for a Cell which afterward was advanced to an Abbay Upon the Steeple whereof which is of a great height William Ke◠one of the Captaines of the Norfolke Rebels in the yeare of our Lord 1549. was hanged on high Neither would it bee passed over in silence that five miles from hence standeth Attilborrough the seate of the Mortimers an ancient Family who being different from those of Wigmor bare for their Armes A Shield Or Semè de floures de Lyz Sables and founded heere a Collegiat Church where there is little now to bee seene The Inheritance of these Mortimers hath by marriage long since accrued to the Ratcliffs now Earles of Sussex to the Family of Fitz-Ralph and to Sir Ralph Bigot But returne we now to the River The said Yare holdeth not his course farre into the East before he taketh Wentsum a Riveret others call it Wentfar from the South into his streame upon which neere unto the head thereof there is a foure square Rampier at Taiesborrough containing foure and twenty Acres It may seeme to have beene a Campe place of the Romans if it be not that which in an old Chorographicall Table or Map published by Marcus Welserus is called AD TAUM Somewhat higher upon the same River stood VENTA ICENORUM the most flourishing City for a little one in times past of all this
Holt or tuft of trees and for the Mercat well knowne running about five miles distant from Yare holdeth on a joynt course a great way and keepeth pace with him by Blickling now the seat of the ancient Family of Clere who in former times dwelt at Ormesby and by Ailesham a Mercat Towne of good resort where the Earle of Athole in Scotland had lands not farre from Worsted whereas I reade the Stuffe Worsted in so great request amongst our Ancestours was first made and hence so named as Dornicks Cameric Calecut c. had in like manner their denomination from the places where they were first invented and made Then passeth Thyrn nere the decayed great Abbay called Saint Benet in the Holme which Knut the Dane built and the Monkes afterward so strengthned with most strong wals and bulwarks that it seemed rather a Castle than a Cloister In so much that William the Conquerour could not winne it by assault untill a Monke betraied it into his hands upon this condition that himselfe might bee made Abbot thereof Which was done accordingly but forthwith this new Abbot for being a Traitour as the Inhabitants make report was hanged up by the Kings commandement and so justly punished for this treason But the ground in this Island or Holme is so fenny and rotten that if a man cut up the strings and rootes of trees and shrubs there growing it floteth aloft on the water and is ready to follow one whither he will have it And some there be who thinke by the Perwinkles and Cocles that other while are digged up there that the Sea had broken in thither From thence runneth this River downe by Ludham an house of the Bishops of Norwich and by Clipsby which gave name to a Family of ancient note in his Tract and straightway uniteth his owne streame with the Yare From the mouth of Yare the shore goeth directly as it were North to Winterton a point or cape very well knowne to Sailers which tooke that name I suppose of the cold and winterly Situation For it lieth full upon the Ocean the father of windes and cold who with exceeding violence rusheth against the bankes and piles that are opposed against him Howbeit the Country adjoyning round about in many mens opinion hath the fattest Soile and softest mould of any country in all England as which asketh least labour and yeeldeth most fruit For with a silly jade as Plinie writeth of Bizacium in Africke and a poore old woman at one side of the yoake drawing the plough it is easily broken up and eared From Winterton immediately the shore turning Westward the sea retireth without any bearing out in manner at all along a flat and low coast as farre as to Eccles which is almost overflowed and drowned with the Ocean From thence it carrieth an higher shore by Bronholme sometime a Priory founded and enriched by G. Glanvill and seated upon the sharpe top of an hill the Crosse whereof our ancestours had in holy reverence I know not for what miracles Next it is Paston a small townlet which yet hath given sirname to a Family growne great both in Estate and alliance since they matched with an Heiresse of Beary and Maultbye Not far hence is Gimmingham which with other Manors John Earle of Warren and Surrie gave in times past to Thomas Earle of Lancaster and by Cromer where the neighbour Inhabitants with great expense went about to make an Havenet but to small purpose the Ocean so furiously played the Tyrant and made resistance Thence the Shore runneth forth to Wauburne-hope a Creeke fortified in our time so called of Wauburne a little Towne unto which by the intercession of Oliver de Burdeaux King Edward the Second granted the Liberty of keeping a Mercat Next unto it is Clay and over against it with a little River running betweene Blackney our Country man Bale calleth it Nigeria a famous House of Carmelite Friers in this late age afore going built by Sir Robert de Roos Sir Robert Bacon and John Bret out of which came John Baconthorp so named of the place of his nativity which now is the habitation of the Heidons an ancient Race of Knights degree A man in that age of such variety and depth withall of excellent learning that hee was had in exceeding great admiration among the Italians and commonly called The Resolute Doctor Whence it is that Paulus Pansa thus writeth of him If thy minde stand to enter into the secret power of the Almighty and most mercifull God no man hath written of his Essence more exactly If any man desireth to learne the causes of things or the effects of Nature if hee wish to know the sundry motions of Heaven and the contrary qualities of the Elements this man offereth himselfe as a store-house to furnish him The Armour of Christian Religion of better proofe and defence than those of Vulcans making against the Iewes this resolute Doctour alone hath delivered c. When you are past Wauburne the Coast lieth more low and flat as farre as to Saint Edmunds Point cut through and distinguished with many a rillet and hardly defended from the injury of the Sea by heapes of sand which they use to call Meales opposed against it More within the Country is Walsingham scarce foure miles from hence whereupon it is that of the vicinity unto the Sea Erasmus calleth it Parathalassia Very famous now is this Village by reason of the best Saffron growing there but of late time as much renowned through all England for a Pilgrimage to our Ladie the Virgin Mary whom hee who had not in that former Age visited and presented with offerings was reputed irreligious But this shall Erasmus an eye-witnesse describe in his owne very words Not farre from the Sea saith hee about foure miles there standeth a Towne living almost of nothing else but upon the resort of Pilgrimes There is a Colledge of Chanons yet such as unto whom the Latinists have given the addition of Regulares a middle kinde betwixt Monkes and those Chanons whom they terme Secular This Colledge hath scarce any other Revenewes than from the liberality of the said Virgin For certaine of the greater Presents and Oblations are layed up and preserved But if there be any money offered or ought else of small value that goeth unto the maintenance of the Covent and their Head or President whom they call Prior. The Church is faire and neat yet in it the Virgin dwelleth not that honour forsooth shee hath done unto her Sonne shee hath her Church by her selfe but so as that shee may bee on the right hand of her Sonne Neither doth shee dwell heere for all this for why the Building is not yet finished and the place hath a through light and ayre on all sides with open doores and wide open windowes the Ocean Sea withall the father and foster of windes
all England made fruitfull by meanes of very many Masters and Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge in manner of the Holy Paradise c. But at what time it became an Vniversity by authority Robert de Remington shall tell you Vnder the Reigne saith hee of Edward the First Grantbridge of a Schoole was made an Vniversity such as Oxenford is by the Court of Rome But what meane I thus unadvisedly to step into these lists Wherein long since two most learned old men have encountred one with another Unto whom verely as to right learned men I am willing to yeeld up my weapons and vaile bonnet with all reverence The Meridian line cutting the Zenith just over Cambridge is distant from the furthest West poynt twenty three degrees and twenty five scruples And the Arch of the same Meridian lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall poynt is fiftie two degrees and II. scruples Cam from Cambridge continuing his course by Waterbeach an ancient seat of Nuns which Lady Mary S. Paul translated from thence to Denny somewhat higher but nothing healthfuller when in a low ground he hath spread a Mere associateth himselfe with the River Ouse But to returne hard under Cambridge Eastward neere unto Sture a little brooke is kept every yeere in the moneth of September the greatest Faire of all England whether you respect the multitude of buyers and sellers resorting thither or the store of commodities there to be vented Hard by whereas the way was most comberous and troublesome to passengers to and fro that right good and praise-worthy man G. Hervy Doctor of the Civill Law and M. of Trinity Hall in Cambridge made not long since with great charges but of a Godly and laudable intent a very faire raised Causey for three miles or thereabout in length toward Neumercat Neere unto Cambridge on the South-East side there appeare aloft certaine high Hills the Students call them Gogmagog-Hills Henry of Huntingdon tearmed them Amoenissima montana de Balsham that is The most pleasant Mountaines of Balsham by reason of a little Village standing beneath them wherein as hee writeth the Danes left no kinde of most savage cruelty unattempted On the top of these hills I saw a Fort intrenched and the same very large strengthened with a threefold Rampire an hold surely in those dayes inexpugnable as some skilfull men in feats of Warre bee of opinion were it not that water is so farre off Gervase of Tilbury seemeth to call it Vandelbiria Beneath Cambridge saith he there was a place named Vandelbiria for that the Vandals wasting the parts of Brittaine with cruell slaughter of Christians there encamped themselves where upon the very top of the hill they pitched their Tents there is a Plaine inclosed round with a Trench and Rampire which hath entrance into it but in one place as it were at a Gate Touching the Martiall spectre or sprite that walked here which he addeth to the rest because it is but a meere toyish and fantasticall devise of the doting vulgar sort I willing over-passe it For it is not my purpose to tell pleasant tales and tickle eares In the Vale under these hills is Salston to be seene which from the Burges of Burgh-Green by Walter De-la-pole and Ingalthorp came unto Sir Iohn Nevill Marquesse Mont-acute and by his daughter and one of his heires to the Hudlestons who have lived here in worship and reputation More Eastward first we meete with Hildersham belonging sometimes to the Bustlers and now by marriage to the Parises Further hard by the Woods is Horsheath situate the Possession whereof is knowne by a long descent to have pertained unto the ancient Families of the Argentons and Alingtons of whom elsewhere I have written and is now the habitation of the Alingtons Adjoyning hereunto is Castle Camps the ancient seat also of the Veres Earles of Oxford which Hugh Vere held as the old booke of Inquisition Records That he might be the Kings Chamberleine whereas notwithstanding most true it is that Henry the First King of England granted unto Aubry de Vere that Office in these words The principall Chamberlaineship of all England in Fee and Inheritance with all the Dignities Liberties and Honours thereto belonging as freely and honourably as Robert Mallet held the same c. The Kings notwithstanding ordained sometimes one and sometimes another at their pleasure to execute this Office The Earles of Oxford also that I may note it incidently by the heire of R. Sandford held the Manours of Fingrey and Wulfelmelston by Serjeanty of Chamberlainship to the Queenes at the Coronation of the Kings Not far from hence are seene here and there those great and long Ditches which certainly the East Angles did cast to restraine the Mercians who with sudden inrodes were wont most outragiously to make havocke of all before them The first of these beginneth at Hinkeston runneth Eastward by Hildersham toward Hors-heath about five miles in length The second neere unto this called Brentditch goeth from Melborne by Fulmer Where D. Hervies cawsey which I mentioned endeth there appeareth also a third forefence or ditch cast up in old time which beginning at the East banke of the river Cam reacheth directly by Fenn-Ditton or more truly Ditch-ton so called of the very Ditch betweene great Wilberham and Fulburn as farre as to Balsham At this day this is called commonly Seauen mile Dyke because it is seaven miles from Newmercate in times past Fleam-Dyke in old English that is Flight-Dyke of some memorable flight there as it seemeth At the said Wilberham sometimes called Wilburgham dwelt in times past the Barons Lisle of Rong-mount men of ancient nobility of whom John for his Martiall prowesse was by King Edward the Third ranged among the first founders of the order of the Garter and of that Family there yet remaineth an heire Male a reverend old Man and full of Children named Edmund Lisle who is still Lord of this place More East from hence five miles within the Country is to bee seene the fourth forefence or ditch the greatest of all the rest with a rampier thereto which the common people wondring greatly at as a worke made by Devils and not by men use to call Devils-Dyke others Rech-Dyke of Rech a little mercate towne where it beginneth This is doubtlesse that whereof Abbo Floriacensis when he describeth the sight of East England writeth thus From that part whereas the Sun inclineth Westward the Province it selfe adjoyneth to the rest of the Island and is therefore passable but for feare of being overrun with many invasions and inrodes of enemies it is fortified in the front with a banke or rampier like unto an huge wall and with a Trench or Ditch below in the ground This for many miles together cutteth overthwart that Plaine which is called Newmarket-heath where it lay open to incursions beginning at Rech above which the Country
Gront that rivers side Among the winding crankes of Lakes and Rivers far and wide Y' spred and neere unto the bankes of Easterne Sea doth stretch It selfe and so from Southerne side along North Eastward reach In muddy gulfe unwholsome fish it breeds as reeds doe shake There growing thicke of winds as words a whispering noise they make Joyne hereunto if you please thus much out of Henry of Huntingdon This Fenny country saith he is passing rich and plenteous yea and beautifull to behold watered with many Rivers running downe to it garnished with a number of Meres both great and small trimly adorned likewise with many Woods and Ilands And for a small conclusion of this matter take with you also these few words of William of Malmesbury speaking of his time So great store there is here of Fishes that strangers comming hither make a wonder at it and the Inhabitants laugh thereat to see them wonder Neither is Water-Foule lesse cheape so that for one halfe penny and under five men at the least may not onely eat to slake hunger and content nature but also feed their fill of Fish and Foule As touching the drying up of this Fenny country what discourse and arguing oftentimes there hath beene either by way of sound and wholsome counsell or of a goodly pretence and shew of a common good even in the High Court of Parliament I list not to relate But it is to be feared least that which often hath happened to the Pontine Marishes of Italy it would come againe to the former state So that many thinke it the wisest and best course according to the sage admonition in like case of Apollo his Oracle Not to intermeddle at all with that which God hath ordained Upon the naturall strength of this place and plenty of all things there seditious Rebels have often presumed and not onely the English when they banded themselves against William Conquerour but the Barons also whensoever they were Out-lawed from hence troubled and molested their Kings But evermore they had ill successe albeit otherwhiles they built fortresses both at Eryth and also at Athered at this day Audre where the easiest entrance is into this Isle And even yet neere unto Andre is to be seene a Military rampire of a meane height but of a very large compasse which they call Belsars-hils of one Belisar I wot not who Part of this Fenny country that lyeth more South and is the greatest by farre which also is counted of this shire was named in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now The Isle of Ely of the chiefe Iland which name Bede hath derived from Eâ—les and thereupon sometime tearmed it Insulam anguillariam that is The Isle of Eâ—les Polydore Virgil fetcheth the originall therof from the Greek word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that signifieth Marish others from Helig a Brittish word betokening Willowes or Sallowes wherewith it doth most of all abound Part of this Region we read that one Tombert a Prince of the Southern Girvii gave as a dowry to his wife Audry who after she had left her second husband Egfrid King of the Nordan humberland being fully resolved to serve Christ built a Monastery for Nunnes Votaries in the principall Iland of these properly called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which was then reckoned at 600 Hides or Families and of this Monastery she also her selfe the first Abbesse Yet was not this the first Church in the fenny country For the booke of Ely recordeth that S. Austen of Canterbury founded a Church at Cradiden which Penda the Mercian afterwards rased and William of Malmesbury reporteth that Foelix Bishop of the East English had his first See at Soham which yet is within the Diocesse of Norwich Soham saith he is a village situate neere unto a Fen which was in times past dangerous for those that would passe into Ely by water now by reason of a way or causey made through the Fenny ground overgrowne with Reeds men may goe over thither by land There be remaining still the tokens of a Church destroyed by the Danes which with the ruines thereof overwhelmed the inhabitants who were burnt together with it At which time also that Monastry of S. Audry was overthrowne by the furious Danes but Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester reedified it For he by a composition betweene the King and him bought the whole Iland a new and having cast out the Priests thence stored it with Monks unto whom King Edgar as we read in his letters patents granted within the Fens jurisdiction over the secular causes of two Hundreds and without the Fens of two Hundreds and an halfe in Wichlaw within the province of the East-Angles which are called at this day The liberties of S. Audry Afterwards Kings and great Noble men enriched it with large revenewes and Earle Brithnoth especially Being now ready to joyne battaile with the Danes in the yeare 999. gave unto the Church of Ely Somersham Spaldwic Trumpinton Ratindum Heisbury Fulburn Tinerston Triplestow and Impetum for that the Monkes had in magnificent manner entertained him in case he should loose his life in that battaile But his fortune was to die at Maldun after hee had fought with the Danes 14. dayes together And so rich was the Monastery that the Abbot thereof as witnesseth Malmsbury laid up every yeere in his owne purse a thousand and foure hundred pounds And Richard the last Abbot sonne to Earle Gislebert being over-tipled as it were with wealth disdaining to bee under the Bishop of Lincolne dealt with the King what by golden words as the Monkes write and what by great suite and politicke meanes that a Bishops See might be erected here which hee prevented by death obtained not Yet soone after King Henry the first having gotten allowance from the Pope made Herveie who had beene Bishop of Bangor and by the Welshmen cast out of his owne seat the first Bishop of Ely unto whom and to his successors he laied for his Diocesse Cambridge-shire which had belonged before unto the Bishop of Lincolne and confirmed certaine Royalties in these Ilands To the Bishops of Lincolne from whose jurisdiction he had taken away this Iland and Cambridge-shire he granted for to make amends The Manour of Spaldwic or as the booke of Ely hath The Manour of Spaldwic was given unto the Church of Lincolne for ever in exchange for the Bishops superintendency over the County of Cambridge Herveie being now made Bishop sought by all meanes possible to augment the dignity of his Church He obtained that it might bee every where Toll-free these are the very words of the booke of Ely He set it free from the yoke of service of watch and ward that it owed to the Castle of Norwich hee made a way from Exning to Ely through the Fennes sixe miles in length he beganne the faire Palace at Ely for his Successours and purchased to it faire Lands and not a few Lordships And
whose sake also when Iohn was revolted from him and tooke part with the French hee honoured with the same title William Marquesse of Iuliers the said Queene Philips sisters son After the death of these two Forainers King Edward the Third translated this dignity to his fifth sonne Edmund of Langley which after he had held foure yeeres my warrant I have out of an old manuscript being in the hands of that skilfull Antiquary Francis Thinn the Earle of Henault cosin to Queene Philip came into Parliament house put in a claime for his right and returned backe well contented The said Edmund of Langly afterwards Duke of Yorke had two sonnes Edward Duke of Yorke who for a certaine time held the Earldome of Cambridge and was slaine in the battell of Agin-court and Richard by the grace and favour of King Henry the Fifth and consent of his brother Edward was created Earle of Cambridge But when he ungratefull and ambitious man that hee was contrived the destruction of that good and noble Prince and so lost his head the title of Cambridge died the same day that he did or lurked at least wise among other titles of his sonne Richard who was afterwards Duke of Yorke and restored to his blood and estate as being cosin and heire to his Unkle Edward Duke of Yorke This Shire containeth Parishes 163. HVNTINGDON Comitatus qui pars fuir ICENORVM HUNTINGDON-SHIRE NExt unto Cambridge-shire lyeth HUNTINGDON-SHIRE in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 so situate that Southward it confineth upon Bedford-shire Westward upon Northamptonshire like as Northwards where by the River Avon it is parted and Eastward upon Cambridge-shire a Country good for corne and tillage and toward the East where it is fenny very rich and plentifull for the feeding of Cattaile elsewhere right pleasant by reason of rising hils and shady groves For the Inhabitants report that in ancient times it was throughout beset with woods and certaine it is that it was a Forest untill that king Henry the Second in the beginning of his raign disforested it as we find in an old perambulation all save Waybridge Sapple and Herthei which were Woods of the Lords demaine and remaine still forests The South part thereof the River Ouse that I have so often spoken of runneth by and bedecketh with flowers On which River among other of lesse note there stand some Townes of good note First after it hath left Bedford-shire and is entred into this County it visiteth Saint Neots commonly called Saint Needs so named of one Neotus a man both learned and holy who travailed all his life time in propagating of Christian Religion whose body was translated from Neotstok in Cornwall hither and in honour of him Alfrick converted the Palace of Earle Elfride unto a Monastery The which Dame Roisia Wife to Richard Lord of Clare shortly after the comming in of the Normas enriched with many faire Possessions But before it was named Ainulphsbury of one Ainulph likewise an holy and devout man which name continueth still also in one part of it A little beneath this at Aileweston a very small Village there are two little Springs the one fresh the other somewhat brackish of which the neighbours give out that this is good against scabs and leprosie the other against the dimnesse of the eye-sight From thence not farre Ouse passeth to Bugden a proper faire house of the Bishops of Lincolne and so by Hinchingbrok a religious house sometimes of Nuns whom King William the Conquerour translated hither from Eltesley in Cambridge-shire and now the dwelling house of the Cromwels knights commeth to Huntingdon in the English-Saxon tongue as Marianus reporteth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the publique seale Huntersdune that is the hill or downe of hunters as Henry Archdeacon of this place who flourished 400. yeares since interpreteth it whence it used in their seale an hunter and Leland our Countriman alluding thereunto hath coined a new Latine word for it namely Venantodunum This is the chiefe Towne of all this Shire to which it hath given also the name farre excelling all the Townes about it the same Archdeacon saith as well for lightsome and pleasant situation as for the beauty and faire shew that it hath it selfe as well also for the vicinity of the Fennes as for great store of Deere and Fish In King Edward the Confessors time that I may note so much out of Domesday booke There were in this Borrough foure Ferlings that is Quarters or Wards In two of them were 116. Burgesses paying custome and gelt and under them 100. Bordarij in the other two 111. Burgesses for all customes and the Kings gelt It is seated upon the North-banke of Ouse somewhat high stretching out in length Northward adorned with foure Churches and it had a little Abbay founded by Maude the Empresse and Eustace Lovetoft the ruines whereof Eastward I have seene hard under the Towne By the River neere unto the Bridge which is faire built of stone the Mount and Plot of a Castle is to bee seene which in the yeare of our Redemption 917. King Edward the Elder built anew and David the Scotishman unto whom as an ancient Historiographer writeth King Stephen had given the Burrough of Huntingdon for an augmentation of his estate enlarged with many new buildings and Bulwarkes but in the end King Henry the Second both because it was a place of refuge for seditious Rebels and for that the Scots and the Saint Lizes had oftentimes raised quarrels and contention about it to cut off all occasions of strife laid it even with the ground when as hee provoked with their unreasonable variance swore an oath that neither they of Saint Lizes nor the Scottishmen should quarrell any more for it From these Castle hils where there is a goodly prospect a great way off a man may behold below a medow which they call Portsholme environed round about with the River Ouse the same very exceeding large and of all others that the Sunne ever shone upon most fresh and beautifull whereof in the Spring time this may be truly said Ver pingit vario gemmantia prata colore The pleasant Spring faire flowers doe yeeld Of divers colours in this field With such a delectable variety of gaye colours it pleaseth and contenteth the eye On the hither banke over against Huntingdon standeth the mother as it were thereof from whence it had his Originall called in Domesday booke Godmundcester and at this day Good-man-chester for Gormonchester A very great country Towne and of as great name for tillage situate in an open ground of a light mould and bending to the Sun Neither is there a Towne againe in all England that hath more stout and lusty husbandmen or more ploughs agoing For they make their boast that they have in former time received the Kings of England as they passed in their progresse this way with nine score ploughs brought forth in a rusticall kind
the CORITANI who beyond the ICENI dwelling further within the Land and spreading themselves very farre through the Mediterranean part of the Island inhabited as farre as to the German Ocean to wit in these Countries which now are commonly called NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE LEICESTER-SHIRE RUTLAND-SHIRE LINCOLN-SHIRE NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE and DERBY-SHIRE With the Etymology of this their name I will not once meddle for feare least putting downe incertainties for certaine and undoubted trueths I may seeme to slip into an errour For although this People were spread farre and wide which GUR-TATI signifieth in the British tongue yet if I would boldly avouch that these were thence called CORITANI should I not play hazard at all aventure Let them for mee guesse more safely who can more happily As for mee I will in the meane time according to my purpose survey as diligently as I may these shires which I have now named each one by it selfe orderly in their severall places NORTHAMTONIAE COMITATVS DESCRIPTIO IN QVO CORITANI OLIM IN SEDERVNT NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE THis County of NORTHAMPTON in the English-Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Northanton-shire commonly called Northampton-shire situate in the very middle and heart as it were of England from the South-West side where it is broadest drawing it selfe narrower by little and little reacheth out in length to the North-East On the East lie Bedford and Huntingdon-shires on the South Buckingham and Oxford-shires Westward Warwickshire and Northward Rutlandshire and Lincoln-shire separated from it by Avon the lesse and Welland two Rivers The East side thereof from Ouse to Dowbridge one of the Romane high waies which they call Watling-streat runneth through The middle and East part the River Nen which by Writers is named also Aufona with his gentle streame parteth in twaine A champian countrey it is exceeding populous and passing well furnished with Noblemens and Gentlemens houses replenished also with Townes and Churches in so much as in some places there are twenty and in others thirty Steeples with Spires or square Towres within view at once The Soile very fertile both for tillage and for pasture yet nothing so well stored with Woods unlesse it bee in the further and hither sides But in every place as elsewhere also in England it is over-spred and as it were beset with Sheepe which according as that Hythodaus merrily said Were wont to bee so gentle and fed with so little but now in our daies as the report goes beginne to bee so ravenous and wilde that they devour men they waste and depopulate fields houses and Towneships On the South border where the River Ouse so often mentioned first springeth in a place rising with an easie ascent and out of which there walme Springs in great plenty standeth Brakley as one would say a place full of Brake or Ferne in old time a famous Mercat Towne and staple as it were for wool which how large and wealthy it was it maketh now demonstration to travailers only by the ruines thereof and by a Major whom it hath for the chiefe Magistrate The Zouches Lords of the place founded a College there from whom it came successively as a possession in marriage right unto the Hollands and the Lovels But when Lord Lovell in King Henry the Seventh his time was attainted the Stanleies became Lords of it by the Kings gift But the College there at this day ruinous belongeth to the Students of Mawdlen College in Oxford who use it for a retyring place Neither came this place to the least name and reputation that it had by occasion of the memory of Saint Rumbald a young Infant who as wee finde written in his life being a Kings sonne so soone as ever he was borne after he had spoken I know not what holy words and professed himselfe to be a Christian was forthwith baptised and so presently dyed and being canonized by the people amongst the Saints had his commemoration kept both here and at Buckingham From hence Northward when we had gone six miles forward and all the way well wooded first we saw Astwell where Sir T. Billing sometime Lord chiefe Justice in the Kings Bench with great state dwelt from whom it descended hereditarily to the Shirleis by the ancient Family of the Lovels then Wedon and Wapiham which the Family of the Pinkeneys held by Barony untill that H. de Pinkney ordained King Edward the First his heire Whom being a right good and excellent Prince many evill men made their heire whereas according to Tacitus a good father maketh no Prince but a bad one his heire Then came we straight waies to TRIPONTIUM which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth though not in due place For I am of opinion that this was the very same which now we call Torcester and to prove it there be some arguments of moment as yet remaining If Trimontium in Thracia had that name of three hils Triturrita in Tuskane of three Towres and Tripolis likewise of three Cities conjoyned in one I have no reason to doubt that this TRIPONTIUM of ours might be so called of three Bridges And heere at this Torcester the Roman Port way which in many places most evidently sheweth it selfe betweene it and Stony stratford is cut through by three speciall Chanels or streames that the little River there divideth it selfe into which in times past like as at this day had of necessity there severall Bridges over them Now if you ask a Britain how he saith in British Three Bridges you shall heare him by and by answer Taer ponte and there be certaine honest men from whom I have received heere peeces of Romane Coine that constantly avouch the true name of this place to be Torcester and think it was so called of Towres Howbeit Marianus nameth it Touecester if the booke be not faulty in whom we read that this towne was so fortified in the yeer of our Redemption 917. that the Danes by no meanes could winne it by assault and that King Edward the elder afterwards compassed it about with a stone Wall yet wee with all our seeking could see no tokens of any such Wall Only there is a Mount remaining cast up with mens hands they call it Berihill now turned into private mens Gardens and planted on every side with Chery trees And very time it selfe hath so conquered and subdued the towne that beholden it is to the situation to the name and old Coines other whiles heere found for that esteeme which it hath of antiquity For no memorable thing there is in it but one onely Church that it hath and the same is a large and faire building wherein D. Sponde sometime the Parson thereof by report a good benefactor to Church and towne both lieth entombed within a tombe of fine and curious workemanship But hard by at Easton-Nesson there is to bee seene a faire and beautifull dwelling house belonging to the Knightly Family of the Farmâ—rs The River that watereth Torcester as it goeth from hence toward Ouse runneth
military Fenses seeme to bee which are heere seene at Gildsborough and Dantrey betweene the Springheads of the two Aufons which run divers waies and where onely there is passage into the hither part of Britaine without any rivers to hinder it That fort at Gildsborough is great and large but this at Dantrey is greater and larger For being foure square upon an high hill from whence all the country beneath may bee seene farre every way about and having on the East side a Mount which they call Spelwell it encloseth within a banke cast up by mans hand more than one hundred acres of ground or thereabout Within which the country people other whiles finde coined peeces of money of the Roman Emperors as proofes of the antiquity thereof Much deceived are they therefore who will needs have it to bee a worke of the Danes and that of them the towne under it was named Dantrey which being a through-fare well knowne at this day by reason of the Innes there had a religious house of the Austen Friers that Sir H. de Fawesley founded as I have read At the head of Aufona or Nen standeth Catesby that gave name to an ancient Family but now of foule tainted memory for a most horrible and damnable complot never in any age exampled which that Robert Catesby of Ashby S. Leger the shame and indelible staine of his house and name detestably breathing forth savage cruelty in barbarous wise and compassing impiously the destruction of Prince and Country devised lately under a specious pretext of Religion Of whom let all times be silent least by making mention of him the foule staine and blot of our age appeare unto Posterity at the naming whereof we cannot chuse but with horror grieve and groane againe seeing the very dumbe and livelesse creatures seeme to be moved and troubled at so hellish Villany imagined by him and his complices Hard by it is Fawesley where have dwelt a long time the Knightleies worshipfull Knights descended from those more ancient Knightleies of Gnowshall in the County of Stafford and more Eastward hard by Nen as yet very small there is Wedon in the street sometimes the royall seat of Wolpher K. of the Mercians and converted into a Monastery by his daughter Werburg a most holy Virgine of whose miracles in driving away Geese from hence some credulous writers have made many a tale Verily I should wrong the Truth if I should not thinke albeit I have thought otherwise that this Wedon is the very station that Antonine the Emperour nameth BANNAVENNA BENNAVENNA BENNAVENTA and once corruptly ISANNAVENTA notwithstanding there now remaine no expresse tokens of that name considering how Time changeth all both names and things For the distance from the next stations and baiting Townes which were in ancient times answereth just and in the very name of BANNAVENNA the name of the River Aufon the head whereof is neere unto it in some sort doth plainly discover it selfe Likewise the high Port-way or Romane street goeth directly from hence Northward with a bridge or causey oft broken and worne out but most of all over against a Village named Creek where it was of necessity that there should be a bridge but in other places the bridge sheweth it selfe also as farre as to Dowbridge neere Lilborne most apparantly Somewhat more Northward wee saw Althorp the habitation of the Spensers knights allied to very many and those most honorable and worshipfull families out of which house Sir Robert Spenser the fifth Knight in a successive continued Descent a respective lover of vertue and learning was by our most gracious Soveraigne King James advanced to the honour of Baron Spenser of Wormeleighton Hard by Althorp Holdenby house a faire patterne of stately and magnificent building maketh a faire glorious shew which Sir Chistopher Hatton one of Queene Elizabeths Privie Councell Lord Chancellor of England and knight of the Order of the Garter built upon the lands and inheritance of his great grandmother heire unto the Family of the Holdenbeis for the greatest and last monument as himselfe afterwards was wont to say of his youth A man to say nothing of him but that which in truth is due for Religion and godlinesse right devout of approved faithfulnesse to the State of incorrupt equity for almesdeeds of all others most bountifull and one which is not the least part of his praise that was most willing and ready to support and maintaine learning Who as he lived a godly life so as godly he slept in Christ yet his commendation made knowne by the lightsome testimony of letters shall shine forth more cleerely than by that gorgeous Monument right well beseeming so great a Personage which Sir William Hatton his adopted sonne consecrated to his memory in the Church of Saint Paul in London Beneath these places Nen passeth on forward with a still and small streame and anone taketh in a small Brooke from the North and is thereby augmented where at the very meeting and confluence of both a City called after the River Northafandon and short Northampton is so seated that on the West side it is watered with the Brooke and on the South side with the foresaid Nen. Which City I was of late easily induced to guesse to have beene that ancient BENNAVENTA but if my conjecture missed the trueth the confession of my errour may salve it As for the name it may seeme to haue beene imposed of the situation thereof upon the North banke of the River Aufon The City it selfe which seemeth to have beene built all of stone is I assure you for houses very faire for circuit of good largenesse and walled about and from the Wall yee have a goodly prospect every way to a wide and spacious plaine Country On the West side it hath an old Castle and the very antiquity thereof giveth a grace unto it built by Simon de Sancto Lizio commonly called Senlyz the first of that name Earle of Northampton who also joyned unto it a beautifull Church called Saint Andrews for a place of his owne buriall and as men say reedified the Towne Simon also the younger his sonne founded without the Towne a Monastery commonly called De la prey for Nunnes During the Saxons Heptarchie it seemeth to have lien forlorne and of none account neither have Writers made any where mention of it in all those depredations of the Danes unlesse it were when Sweno the Dane in a furious and outragious moode made most cruelly havocke throughout all England for then as Henry of Huntingdon recordeth it was set on fire and burnt to the ground In the Raigne of Saint Edward the Confessour there were in it as we finde in the Survey Booke of England LX. Burgesses in the Kings Domaine having as many Mansions Of these in King William the Conquerours time Foureteene lay waste and voide and forty seaven remained Over and above these there were in the new Burrough forty Burgesses in the
the eldest Daughter and hee built Saint Andrewes Church and the Castle at Northampton After him succeeded his sonne Simon the second who a long time was in suite about his mothers possessions with David King of Scots his mothers second husband and having sided with King Stephen in the yeere of our Lord 1152. departed this life with this testimoniall that went of him A Youth full fraught with all unlawfull wickednesse and as full of all unseemely lewdnesse His sonne Simon the third having gone to law with the Scots for his right to the Earldome of Huntingdon wasted all his estate and through the gracious goodnesse of King Henry the Second married the Daughter and Heire of Gilbert de Gaunt Earle of Lincolne and in the end having recovered the Earledome of Huntingdon and disseized the Scots dyed childelesse in the yeare 1185. Whereas some have lately set downe Sir Richard Gobion to have beene Earle of Northampton afterward I finde no warrant thereof either in Record or History Onely I finde that Sir Hugh Gobion was a Ringleader in that rebellious rable which held Northampton against king Henry the Third and that the inheritance of his house came shortly after by marriage to Butler of Woodhall and Turpin c. But this is most certaine that King Edward the Third created William de Bohun a man of approved valour Earle of Northampton and when his elder brother Humfrey de Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex High Constable also of England was not sufficient in that warlike age to beare that charge of the Constable he made him also High Constable of England After him his sonne Humfrey succeeding in the Earledome of Northampton as also in the Earledomes of Hereford and of Essex for that his Unckle dyed with issue begat two Daughters the one bestowed in marriage upon Thomas of Woodstocke the youngest sonne of King Edward the Third the other upon Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford who afterwards attained to the Crowne by the name of King Henry the Fourth The Daughter of the said Thomas of Woodstocke brought by her marriage this Title of Northampton with others into the Family of the Staffords But when they afterwards had lost their honours and dignities King Edward the Sixth honoured Sir William Parr Earle of Essex a most accomplished Courtier with the Title of Marquesse of Northampton who within our remembrance ended this life issuelesse And while I was writing and perusing this Worke our most sacred Soveraigne King James in the yeere of our Salvation 1603. upon one and the same day advanced Lord Henry Howard brother to the last Duke of Norfolke a man of rare and excellent wit and sweet fluent eloquence singularly adorned also with the best sciences prudent in counsell and provident withall to the state of Baron Howard of Marnehill and the right honourable name title stile and Dignity of Earle of Northampton There belong unto this Shire Parishes 326. LECESTRIAE COMITATVS SIVE Leicestershyre PARS OLIM CORITANORVM LEICESTER-SHIRE ON the North side of Northampton-shire boundeth LEICESTER-SHIRE called in that Booke wherein William the Conquerour set downe his Survey of England Ledecester-shire a champian Country likewise throughout bearing corne in great plenty but for the most part without Woods It hath bordering upon it on the East side both Rutland-shire and Lincoln-shire on the North Nottingham and Derby-shires and Warwick-shire on the West For the high Rode way made by the Romanes called Watling-streat directly running along the West skirt separateth it from Warwick-shire and on the South side as I noted even now lyeth Northampton-shire Through the middle part thereof passeth the River Soar taking his way toward the Trent but over the East-part a little River called Wreke gently wandereth which at length findeth his way into the foresaid Soar On the South side where it is divided on the one hand with the River Avon the lesse and on the other with the River Welland we meet with nothing worth relation unlesse it be on Wellands banke whiles he is yet but small and newly come from his head with Haverburgh commonly called Harborrow a Towne most celebrate heereabout for a Faire of Cattaile there kept and as for Carleton as one would say the husband-mens Towne that is not farre from it wherein I wote not whether it be worth the relating all in manner that are borne whether it bee by a peculiar property of the Soile or the water or else by some other secret operation of nature have an ill favoured untunable and harsh manner of speech fetching their words with very much adoe deepe from out of the throat with a certaine kinde of wharling That Romane streete way aforesaid the causey whereof being in some other places quite worne and eaten away heere most evidently sheweth itselfe passeth on directly as it were by a streight line Northward through the West side of this Province The very tract of which street I my selfe diligently traced and followed even from the Tamis to Wales purposely to seeke out Townes of ancient memory laugh you will perhaps at this my painfull and expencefull diligence as vainly curious neither could I repose my trust upon a more faithfull guide for the finding out of those said townes which Antonine the Emperour specifieth in his Itinerary This Street-way being past Dowbridge where it leaveth Northampton-shire behinde it is interrupted first with the River Swift that is indeed but slow although the name import swiftnesse which it maketh good onely in the Winter moneths The Bridge over it now called Bransford and Bensford Bridge which heere conjoyned in times past this way having been of long time broken downe hath beene the cause that so famous a way for a great while was the lesse frequented but now at the common charge of the country it is repaired Upon this way lyeth of the one side Westward Cester-Over but it is in Warwick-shire a place worth the naming were it but in regard of the Lord thereof Sir Foulke Grevill a right worshipfull and worthy knight although the very name it selfe may witnesse the antiquity for our ancestours added this word Cester to no other places but only cities On the other side of the way Eastward hard by water Swift which springeth neere Knaptoft the seat of the Turpins a knightly house descended from an heire of the Gobions lieth Misterton belonging to the ancient family of the Poulteneis who tooke that name of Poulteney a place now decaied within the said Lordship Neere to it is Lutterworth a Mercate Towne the possession in times past of the Verdons which onely sheweth a faire Church which hath beene encreased by the Feldings of knights degree and ancient gentry in this Shire That famous John Wickliffe was sometime Parson of this Church a man of a singular polite and well wrought wit most conversant also in the holy Scripture who for that he had sharpened the neb of his pen against the Popes authority the Church
in the yeere 1588. leaving the fame onely of his greatnesse behinde him Within this Shire are 200. Parish Churches RVTLANDIAE Omnium in Anglia Comitatu um minimus Pars olim CORITANORVM RUTLAND-SHIRE RUTLAND in the old English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is environed within Leicester-shire unlesse it be on the South-side where it lieth upon the river Welland and on the East-side where it butteth upon Lincoln-shire A Country nothing inferiour to Leicester-shire either in fruitfull qualitie of soile or pleasantnesse but in quantitie onely as being the least County of all England For lying in forme almost round like a circle it is in compasse so farre about as a light horseman will ride in one day Whence it is that the Inhabitants tell a tale of I wote not what king who should give to one Rut so much land as he could ride about in one day and that he forsooth rode about this shire within the time appointed and so had it given him and named it by his owne name Rutland But let such fables bee packing I would not have the trueth prejudiced with an extravagant tale And where as the earth in this shire is every where red and so red that even the sheepes fleeces are thereby coloured red whereas also the English-Saxons called Red in their tongue Roet and Rud may we not suppose that this Countrey was named Rutland as one would say a Redland For as saith the Poet. Conveniunt rebus nomina saepè suis. The names as often times we see With things themselves full well agree Now that places in all Nations have had their names of rednesse Rutlan Castle in Wales built on a shore of red earth Redbay Redhill Redland The Red Promontory The Red-Sea also betwixt Aegypt and Arabia Erytheia in Ionia and a number besides may proove most evidently So that there is no cause why we should give credit to fables in this behalfe As for this little County it may seeme to have beene ordained a Shire or County but of late daies For in King Edward the Confessors time it was counted a part of Northampton-shire and our Historiographers who wrote three hundred yeeres agoe and upward reckoned it not in the number of Shires Wash or Guash a little river which runneth from the West Eastward through the middle of it divideth it in twaine In the hithermore or South part riseth Uppingham upon an high ascent whence that name was imposed not memorable for any thing else but because it is counted a well frequented Mercat towne and hath for to shew a proper Schoole which together with another at Okeham R. Ihonson a Minister of Gods word in a good and laudable intent for the training up of children in good literature lately erected with the money he had gotten together by way of collection Under this standeth Drystoke which in no wise is to be passed over with silence considering it hath been the habitation from old time of a right ancient race of the Digbyes which I grieve to utter it but all men know it hath now caught a deepe steine by Sir Everard Digby drawne into that cursed crew who most horribly complotted with one divelish flash of hellish Gun-pouder to blow up both Prince and Country More Eastward upon the river Welland I saw nothing remarkeable unlesse it be Berohdon now Barodon which Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke held with South Leffingham now South Luffenham and other Hamelets by service to be the Kings Chamberlaine in the Exchequer On the further part beyond the river among the hils there spreadeth below a very pleasant and fruitfull vale named at this day The vale of Catmose happily of Coet maes which signifieth in the Brittish tongue a field full of woods In the middest whereof Okeham sheweth it selfe which by the like reason may seeme to have taken the name from Okes where hard by the Church which is large and faire remaine the crackt and decaying walls of an old Castle which Walkelin de Ferrariâ—s built in the first times of the Norman Kings And that it hath been the dwelling place of the Ferrars besides the credit of writers and generall report the great horse shoes which in times past that family gave in their armes fastned upon the gate and in the hall may sufficiently proove Afterwards it belonged to the Lords of Tatteshall But when King Richard the second had promoted Edward the Duke of Yorkes sonne to the Earledome of Rutland he gave unto him this Castle also But within our Fathers remembrance it befell unto Thomas Cromwel and was reputed the seat of his Baronie whom King Henry the Eighth advanced to the highest pitch of dignity and streightwaies when by his plotting and attempting of many matters he had cast himselfe into the tempestuous stormes of envy and displeasure bereft him on a sudden both of life and dignity Over against it Eastward there standeth Burley most daintily seated and overlooking the vale A stately and sumptuous house now of the Haringtons who by marrying the daughter and heire of Colepeper became Lords of so faire an inheritance that ever since they have flourished in these parts like as before time the Colepepers had done unto whom by N. Green the wealthy and goodly Livelod of the Bruses in part had descended As for those Bruses being men of the chiefe Nobility in England they were engraffed into the Roiall stocke and family of Scotland out of whom by Robert the eldest brother the race Roiall of Scotland are sprung-like as by Bernard the younger brother the Cottons of Connington in Huntingdon-shire of whom I have written already and these Haringtons In which regard and gracious respect King James advanced Sir Iohn Harington branched from that stem that the ancient Lords Harington to the title of Baron Harington of Exton a towne adjacent where he hath also an other faire house Moreover on the East side by the river Guash stands Brigcasterton whereof I will say more afterward and Rihall where when superstition had so bewitched our ancestours that the multitude of their pety Saints had well neere taken quite away the true God one Tibba a pety Saint or Goddesse reputed to bee the tutelar patronesse of Hauking was of Foulers and Faulkoners worshipped as a second Diana Essendon also is neere adjoyning the Lord whereof Sir Robert Cecil a good sonne of a right good father the strength and stay of our Common-wealth in his time was by King James created Baron Cecil of Essendon in the first yeere of his reigne This little County King Edward the Confessor by his last Will and Testament bequeathed unto his wife Eadith yet with this condition that after her death it should come to S. Peter of Westminster For these be the very words of the said Testament I will that after the death of Queene Eadith my wife ROTELAND with all the appertenances thereto be given to my Monastery of the most blessed
Saint Peter and be yeelded up without delay for ever unto the Abbot and to the Monkes there serving God yet King William the Conquerour cancelled and made voide this Testament who reserving a great part of it to himselfe divided the rest betweene Countesse Iudith whose daughter was married to David King of Scots Robert Mallet Oger Gislebert of Gaunt Earle Hugh Aubrey the Clerk and others And unto Westminster first he left the Tithes afterwards the Church onely of Okeham and parcels thereunto appertaining This County hath not had many Earles The first Earle of Rutland was Edward the first begotten Sonne of Edmund of Langley Duke of Yorke created by King Richard the Second upon a singular favour that he cast unto him during his Fathers life and afterwards by the same King advanced to the honour of Duke of Aumarle This young man wickedly projected with others a practise to make away King Henry the Fourth and streight waies with like levity discovered the same But after his Fathers death being Duke of Yorke lost his life fighting couragiously amid the thickest troupes of his enemies in the battaile of Agincourt Long time after there succeeded in this Honour Edward the little young Sonne of Richard Duke of Yorke and he together with his Father during those deadly broiles of civill warre was slaine in the battaile fought at Wakefield Many yeeres after King Henry the Eighth raised up Sir Thomas Mannours to be Earle of Rutland who in right of his Grand-mother Aeleonor was possessed of a goodly and faire inheritance of the Barons Roos lying in the countries round about and elsewhere In his roome succeeded his Sonne Henry and after him likewise Edward his Sonne unto whom if I should say nothing else that commendation of the Poet was most aptly and truly appliable Nomen virtutibus aequat Nec sinit ingenium nobilitate premi His name so great with vertues good he matcheth equally Nor suffreth wit smuthring to lie under Nobility But he by over hasty and untimely death being received into Heaven left this dignity unto John his Brother who also departing this life within a while hath for his successor Roger his Sonne answerable in all points to his ancient and right noble parentage This small Shire hath Parish Churches 48. LINCOLNIAE Comitatus vbi olim insederunt CORITANI LINCOLNE-SHIRE VPon Rutland on the East side confineth the County of LINCOLNE called by the English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by the Normans Nicol-shire after their comming into the Land with some transposition of letters but usually LINCOLNE-SHIRE A very large Country as reaching almost threescore miles in length and carrying in some places above thirty miles in bredth passing kinde for yeeld of Corne and feeding of Cattaile well furnished and set out with a great number of Townes and watered with many Rivers Upon the Eastside where it bendeth outward with a brow fetching a great compasse the German Ocean beateth on the shore Northward it recheth to Humber an arme of the sea on the West side it butteth upon Nottingham-shire and on the South it is severed from Northampton-shire by the River Welland This whole Shire is divided into three parts whereof one is called Holland a second Kesteven and the third Lindsey Holland which Ingulph termeth Holland lyeth to the sea and like unto that Holland in Germanie it is so throughly wet in most places with waters that a mans foote is ready to sinke into it and as one standeth upon it the ground will shake and quake under his feet and thence it may seeme to have taken the name unlesse a man would with Ingulph say that Holland is the right name and the same imposed upon it of Hay which our Progenitours broadly called Hoy. This part throughout beareth upon that ebbing and flowing arme of the Sea which Ptolomee calleth METARIS instead of Maltraith and wee at this day The Washes A very large arme this is and passing well knowne at every tide and high sea covered all over with water but when the sea ebbeth and the tide is past a man may passe over it as on dry land but yet not without danger Which King John learned with his losse For whilest he journied this way when he warred upon the rebellious Barons the waters suddenly brake in upon him so that at Fosse-dyke and Welstream he lost all his carriage and princely furniture as Matthew of Westminster writeth This Country which the Ocean hath laied to the land as the Inhabitants beleeve by sands heaped and cast together they it terme Silt is assailed on the one side with the said Ocean sea and in the other with a mighty confluence of waters from out of the higher countries in such sort that all the Winter quarter the people of the country are faine to keepe watch and ward continually and hardly with all the bankes and dammes that they make against the waters are able to defend themselves from the great violence and outrage thereof The ground bringeth forth but small store of corne but plenty of grasse and is replenished abundantly with fish and water-fowle The Soile throughout is so soft that they use their Horses unshod neither shall you meet so much as with a little stone there that hath not beene brought thither from other places neverthelesse there bee most beautifull Churches standing there built of foure square stone Certaine it is that the sea aforetime had entred farther up into the Country and that appeareth by those bankes formerly raised against the waterwaves then in-rushing which are now two miles off from the shore as also by the hils neere Sutterton which they call Salt-Hils But of fresh water there is exceeding great want in all places neither have they any at all but raine water and that in pits which if they be of any great depth presently become brackish if shallow they dry up as soone Neither are there Quicksands wanting which have a wonderfull force to draw to them and to hold fast as both Shepheards and their poore Sheepe also finde other whiles not without danger This Holland or Hoiland whether you will is divided into two parts The Lower and the Higher The Lower hath in it soule and slabby quavemires yea and most troublesome Fennes which the very Inhabitants themselves for all their stilts cannot stalke through And considering that it lieth very low and flat fenced it is of the one side against the Ocean on the other from those waters which overwhelme the upper part of the Isle of Ely with mighty piles and huge bankes opposed against the same Of which Southybanke is of greatest name which least it should have a breach made through it with that infinite masse of water that falleth from the South part when the Rivers swell and all is overflowne by inundation the people watch with great care and much feare as against a dangerous enemy And yet for the draining away of this water the neighbour Inhabitants at the common charges
Raigne of Edward the Third an University and publique profession of good learning beganne heere which the Inhabitants count no small credit unto them For when there was such hote debate and contention betweene the Northren and Southren Students at Oxford a great number of Scholers withdrew themselves hither but after a small while they returned upon the Kings Proclamation to Oxford and as they sodainely beganne so they ended as soone this new University And thenceforward provided it was by oth That no Student in Oxford should publiquely professe or reade at Stanford to the prejudice of Oxford Neverthelesse it flourished with fresh trading and merchandise untill the civill warre betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke grew so hore that the Northren Souldiers breaking into the Towne destroyed all with fire and sword Neither could it ever since that time fully recover the ancient Dignity And yet now it is in good estate and the civill government thereof consisteth of an Alderman and foure and twenty Burgesses his brethren Beautified it is with seven Parish Churches or thereabout and sheweth an old Hospitall and that a very faire house founded by William Browne a Burgesse there besides another new one on this side the Bridge lately built by that Nestor of Britaine Sir William Cecill Baron Burghley what time as hee raised that stately and sumptuous house at Burghley whereof I have spoken already in Northampton-shire who lieth enterred here in a goodly and gorgeous Tombe within the Parish Church of Saint George a man to say nothing else of him who by course of nature and for his owne glory lived long enough but in regard of his Country died oversoone Although some tokens remaining of antiquity and the High-street made by the Romans which so soone as you are without the Towne leadeth you the direct way into the North may sufficiently shew that sometimes there was a Ferry or Waterfare heere Yet that this Towne should be that GAUSENNAE which Antonine the Emperour placeth not farre from hence the said tokens of Antiquity doe not affoord sufficient proofe But seeing that a mile from hence there is a little Village called Bridge-casterton which very name carryeth with it the marke of Antiquity where the River Guash or Wash crosseth the said High-street the affinity of this name Guash with Gausenna and the distance also making not against it hath made mee to thinke that Gausennae was it which now is called Bridge-casterton untill time bring truth to light If I should thinke that Stanford grew out of the ruines of this Towne and that this part of the Shire was named Kesteven of GAUSENNAE like as another part Lindsey of the City Lindum let this I pray you bee but mine opinion and judge yee thereof accordingly It is supposed that this Gausennae was overthrowne when as Henry Archdeacon of Huntingdon writeth the Picts and Scots had spoiled all the Country as farre as to Stanford where Hengist and his English-Saxons with their unwearied force and singular prowesse hindered the passage of those furious Nations so that after many of them were slaine and more taken prisoners the rest betooke themselves to flight But let us proceed to the rest On the East side of Kesteven which bendeth toward Hoiland as wee goe Northward these places stand in order First Deping that is to say as Ingulph interpreteth it Deepe Medow Where Richard de Rulos Chamberlaine to William Conquerour excluding the River Welland with raising up an high banke for that it often overflowed and building upon the said Banke many Tenements made a great Village This Deping or Deepe Medow was very fitly so called for the plaine lying under it and which taketh up in compasse many miles is of all this fenny Country the deepest and the very receptacle of most waters And that which a man would mervaile at it lyeth farre under the Chanell of the River Clen which being held in with forced bankes passeth by from out of the West Then have you Burne well knowne by occasion that King Edmund was crowned and the Wakes had a Castle there who obtained unto this Towne from King Edward the First the liberty of a Mercate More Eastward is Irnham a seat of the Barony in times past of Sir Andrew Lutterell Beyond it is Sempringham famous in these daies by reason of that passing faire house which Edward Lord Clinton afterwards Earle of Lincolne built but renowned in old time for the religious Order of the Gilbertines instituted by Gilbert Lord of the place for he a wonderfull man in custodia mulierum gratiae singularis that is of singular grace in taking charge of women in the yeere after Christs Nativity 1148. contrary to Justinians Constitutions which forbad Double Monasteries that is to say of men and women together howbeit well backed with the authority of Eugenius the third Bishop of Rome ordained a Sect consisting of men and women which so grew and encreased that himselfe laied the foundations of thirteene religious houses of this Order and whiles hee lived had in them 700. Gilbertine Brethren and eleven hundred Sisters but no honester than they should be if wee may beleeve Niele a scoffing Poet in those daies who wrote thus of them Harum sunt quadam steriles quaedam parientes Virgineóque tamen nomine cuncta tegunt Qua pastoralis baculi dotatur honore Illa quidem meliùs fertiliúsque parit Vix etiam quaevis sterilis reperitur in illis Donec eis aetas talia posse negat Some barren are of these some fruitfull be Yet they by name of Virgins cover all More fertile sure and better beareth she Who blest is once with croysier pastorall Now scarce of them is found one barren Doe Till age debarre whether they will or no. Then see you Folkingham which also is now a Lordship of the Clintons the Barony in times past of the Gaunts who were descended from Gilbert de Gaunt nephew to Baldwin Earle of Flaunders unto whom by the liberality of King William the Conquerour there fell great revenewes For thus we reade in an old manuscript Memorandum that with William Conquerour there came in one Gilbert de Gaunt unto whom the said William gave the Manour of Folkingham with all the Appertenances and the Honour thereunto belonging and they expelled a certaine woman named Dunmoch Of the said Gilbert came one Walter de Gaunt his sonne and heire and of the said Walter came Gilbert de Gaunt his sonne and heire also Robert de Gaunt a younger sonne And from the said Gilbert the sonne and heire came Alice his daughter and heire who was espoused to Earle Simon and shee gave many Tenements to religious men and dyed without heire of her owne body Then descended the inheritance to Robert de Gaunt aforesaid her unckle and of the foresaid Robert came Gilbert his sonne and heire and of the aforesaid came another Gilbert his sonne and heire and
thereof For in this tenour runne the very words of the Charter She likewise bestowed it upon John de Lacy Constable of Chester and the heires whom hee should beget of the body of Margaret her daughter This John had issue Edmund who dying before his mother left this honour for Henry his sonne to enjoy who was the last Earle of that line For when his sonnes were taken away by untimely death and he had but one little daughter onely remaining alive named Alice hee affianced her being but nine yeeres old to Thomas the sonne of Edmund Earle of Lancaster with this condition That if he should fortune to dye without heires of her body or if they happened to dye without heires of their bodies his Castles Lordships c. should in Remainder come to the heires of Edmund Earle of Lancaster for ever But the said Alice had no childe at all by her husband Thomas But when Thomas her husband was beheaded shee that by her light behaviour had not a little steined her good name tooke Sir Eubul le Strange with whom she had lived before time too familiarly for her husband without the assent and privity of her Soveraigne who being hereat highly offended seised her possessions into his owne hands Yet both Sir Eubul Strange and Sir Hugh Frene her third husband are in some Records named Earles of Lincolne After Alice now very aged was departed this life without issue Henry Earle of Lancaster Nephew to Edmund aforesaid by his second sonne entred upon her large and faire patrimony by vertue of that conveiance which I spake of before and from that time it accrued to the House of Lancaster Howbeit the Kings of England at their pleasure have bestowed the name and honour of Earles of Lincolne as King Edward the Fourth gave it to Sir John De la Pole and King Henry the Eighth to Henry Brandon both the Sonnes of the Dukes of Suffolke who both ended this life without Issue the first slaine in the battaile at Stoke and the other taken away by the sweating sicknesse Afterward Queene Elizabeth promoted Edward Baron Clinton Lord high Admirall of England to the said honour which his sonne Henry enjoyeth at this day There are in this Shire Parishes much about 630. NOTINGAMIAE Comitatus olim pars CORITANORVM NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE VPon the West side of Lincolne-shire confineth the County of NOTTINGHAM in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in English Nottingham-shire being farre lesse in quantity limited Northward with York-shire Westward with Darby-shire and in some parts with York-shire and on the South side with Leicester-shire The South and East part thereof are made more fruitfull by the noble and famous River Trent with other Riverets resorting unto it The West part is taken up with the Forest of Shirewood which stretcheth out a great way This part because it is sandy the Inhabitants tearme The Sand the other for that it is Clayish they call the Clay and so have divided their Country into these two parts The River Trent in the old English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which some Antiquaries of small note and account have called Triginta in Latine for the affinity of the French word Trent that signifieth that number Triginta that is thirty having gone a long journey so soone as hee is entred into this Shire and hath recepto Souro flumine ex agro Leicestrensi taking in the River Soure from the field of Leicester runne by Steanford where I have learned there be many tokens remaining of old antiquity and peeces of Roman money oftentimes found and then by Clifton which hath given both habitation and sirname also to the ancient family of the Cliftons much enriched by one of the heires of Cressy taketh in from the West the little River Lin which rising neere unto Newsted that is New place where sometime King Henry the Second founded a small Abbay and which is now the dwelling house of the ancient Family of the Burons descended from Ralph de Buron who at the first comming in of the Normans flourished in great state both in this Countrey and also in Lancashire runneth hard by Wallaton rich in veines of cole where Sir Francis Willoughby a Knight nobly descended from the Greis Marquesse Dorset in our daies built out of the ground with great charges upon a vaine ostentation of his wealth a stately house with artificiall workemanship standing bleakely but offering a very goodly prospect to the beholders farre and neere Then runneth it by Linton or Lenton much frequented and famous in old time for the Abbay there of the Holy Trinity founded by William Peverell the base sonne of King William the Conquerour but now all the fame is onely for a Faire there kept Where on the other banke at the very meeting well neere of Lin and Trent the principall Towne that hath given name unto the Shire is seated upon the side of an hill now called Nottingham by softning the old name a little for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for so the English Saxons named it of certaine caves and passages under the ground which in old time they hewed and wrought hollow under those huge and steepe cliffes which are on the South side hanging over the little River Lin for places of receit and refuge yea and for habitations And thereupon Asserius interpreteth this Saxon word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Latine Speluncarum domum that is An house of Dennes or Caves and in the British Tui ogo bauc which signifieth the very selfe same The Towne for the naturall site thereof is right pleasant as where on the one hand lye faire and large Medowes by the Rivers side on the other rise hils with a gentle and easie ascent and is plentifully provided of all things beside necessary for mans life On the one side Shirewood yeeldeth store of wood to maintaine fire although many use for that purpose stinking pit cole digged forth of the ground on the other Trent serveth it aboundantly with fish And hence hath beene taken up this od barbarous Verse Limpida sylva focum Triginta dat mihi piscem Shire-wood yeelds me fuell for fire As Trent yeelds fish what I require At a word for largenesse for building for three faire Churches a passing spacious and beautifull Mercat place and a most strong Castle it maketh a goodly shew The said Castle is mounted upon an huge and steepe worke on the West side of the City in which place it is thought that Castle stood in times past upon whose strength the Danes presuming held out against the Siege of Aethered and Aelfrid so long untill they frustrate of their purpose brake up their Siege trussed up bagge and baggage and dislodged For when the Danes had taken this Castle Burthred King of the Mercians as mine Authour Asserius writeth and the Mercians addresse their messengers to Aethered King of the West Saxons and to
as many Monasteries and filled them with religious Brethren Neverthelesse this vaine prodigality and lavish spending that was in a military Bishop was pursued afterwards with condigne punishment For King Stephen who laboured nothing more than to establish his tottering estate in his Kingdome by seizing into his hands all the strongest holds thereof brought this Prelate what with hard imprisoning and in a sort with famishing him to that passe that will'd hee nill'd he at length hee yeelded up unto him both this Castle and that other at Sleford in Lincolne-shire Neither is there any other memorable matter heere to be related but that King John finished in this place the most wearisome course of his troublesome life and King Edward the Sixth incorporated it of one Alderman and twelve Assistants From hence the River gathering himselfe againe into one Chanell runneth directly Northward beset on both sides with Villages neither affoordeth it any matter worth remembrance before it come to Littleborrough a little Towne in deed and truely answering to the name where as there is at this day a Ferry much used so there was in times past that Station whereof Antonine the Emperour once or twice made mention and which according to sundry Copies is called AGELOCUM or SEGELOCUM This Towne have I heretofore sought for in vaine about the Country adjoyning but now I am verily perswaded and assured that I have found it out both for that it standeth upon the old Port High-way and also because the field lying to it sheweth expresse tokens of Walles and besides affoordeth unto Ploughmen every day many peeces of the Roman Emperours Coine which because Swine many times rooting into the ground turne up with their snouts the country people call Swinespeniâ—s Who also according to their simple capacity are of opinion that their forefathers in times past fensed and mounded that field with a stone Wall against the water of Trent that useth in Winter time to overflow and make great flouds In the West part of this Shire which they tearme The Sand and where Erwash a little Riveret hieth apace into Trent Strelley in old time Strellegh sheweth it selfe a place that gave both sirname and habitation to the Family of the Strelleis commonly called Sturleyes Knights one of the most ancient Houses in all this Country More inward the Forest Shirewood which some expound by these Latine names Limpida Sylva that is A Shire or Cleere wood others Praclara Sylva in the same sence and signification in ancient times over-shadowed all the Country over with greene leaved branches and the boughs and armes of trees twisted one within another so implicated the Woods together that a man could scarcely goe alone in the beaten pathes But now the trees grow not so thicke yet hath it an infinite number of fallow Deere yea and Stagges with their stately branching heads feeding within it Some Townes also among which Mansfield carryeth away the name as maintaining a great Mercat passing well served and as well frequented The name of which Towne they that delineat the Pedegree of the Graves of the great family of Mansfield in Germany use as an argument to proove the same and set downe that the first Earle of Mansfield was one of King Arthurs Knights of the Round Table borne and bred at this Mansfield Indeed our Kings used in old time to retyre themselves hether for the love of hunting and that you may reade the very words out of an ancient Inquisition W. Fauconberge tenebat Manerium de Cukeney in hoc Comitatu in Sergientia per Servitium ferrandi Palsredum Regis quando Rex veniret ad Mansfield that is W. Fauconberge held the Manour of Cukeney in this County in Sergiency by service to shooe the Kings Palfrey when the King came to Mansfield And the hereditary Foresters or Keepers of this Forest of Shirewood were men in their times of high estimation viz. Sir Gerarde de Normanvile in the time of the Conquest the Cauzes and Birkins by whose heire it came to the Everinghams Of which Family Sir Adam Everingham was summoned to Parliaments in the Raignes of King Edward the Second and King Edward the Third At which time they were seated at Laxton anciently called Lexinton where also flourished a great Family so sirnamed whose heires were marryed into the Houses of Sutton of Averham and Markham Out of this Wood there spring many Riverets that runne into the Trent but Idle is thought to bee the chiefe upon which neere unto Idleton in the yeere 616. that felicity and prosperous successe which for a long time had accompanied Ethered that most puissant King of Northumberland was overtaken and forsooke him quite For whereas before time he had alwaies fought his battailes most fortunately heere fortune turning her wheele he was by Redwald King of the East Angles vanquished and slaine who in his roome made Edwin then banished from the Kingdome due unto him from his Ancesters Soveraigne Ruler over the Northumbers This little River Idle runneth downe not farre from Markham a Village verily but small to speake of yet gave it name to the Family of the Markhams which for worth and antiquity hath beene very notable being descended from one of the heires of Cressy and formerly from an heire of Lexinton as I lately shewed The greatest ornament of this Family was Sir John Markham who sitting Lord chiefe Justice of England guided the helme of Justice with so even an hand and so great equity a thing that I would have you to reade in the English Histories that his honour and glory shall never perish Six miles from it Westward is Workensop a Towne well knowne for the Liquorice that there groweth and prospereth passing well famous also for the Earle of Shrewsburies House which within our remembrance George Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury built with that magnificence as beseemeth so great an Earle and yet such as was not to be envied This Workensop from the Lovetofts first Lords thereof under the Normans Raigne descended by the Furnivalles and Nevil unto the L. Talbots with a very goodly inheritance Of which Lovetofts G. Lovetoft in the time of King Henry the First founded here an Abbay the ruines whereof I have seen toward the East side of the Towne amidst most pleasant and plentifull pastures and the West part of the Church standeth still passing faire to be seene with two towre steeples A little higher upon the same River I saw Blithe a famous Mercate Towne which Bulley or Busly a Noble man of the Normans blood fortified with a Castle but now the very rubbish thereof is hardly to bee seene time so consumeth all things But the Abbay there was founded by Roger Busly and Foulke De Lisieurs and this is the farthest Towne almost in Nottingham-shire Northward unlesse it bee Scroby a little Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke situate in the very confines and frontiers of York-shire William sirnamed
place at this day is called Buxton well which being found by experience holsome for the stomach sinewes and the whole body George Earle of Shrewesbury lately beautified with buildings and so they are begunne againe to bee resorted unto by concourse of the greatest Gentlemen and of the Nobility At which time that most unfortunate Lady Mary Queene of Scots bad farewell unto Buxton with this Distichon by a little change of Caesars Verses concerning Feltria in this wise Buxtona a quae calidae celebrabere nomine lymphae Fortè mihi posthac non adeunda vale Buxton that of great name shalt be for hote and holsome baine Farewell for I perhaps shall not thee ever see againe But that these hote waters were knowne in old time The Port-way or High paved Street named Bath-gate reaching for seven miles together from hence unto Burgh a little Village doth manifestly shew Neere unto this Burgh there standeth upon the top of an hill an old Castle sometimes belonging to the Peverels called The Castle in the Peake and in Latin De Alto Pecco which King Edward the Third together with a Manour and an Honour gave unto his sonne John Duke of Lancaster what time as hee surrendered the Earledome of Richmond into the Kings hands Under which there is a Cave or hole within the ground called saving your reverence The Devils Arse that gapeth with a wide mouth and hath in it many turnings and retyring roomes wherein forsooth Gervase of Tilbury whether for wane of knowing trueth or upon a delight hee had in fabling hath written that a Shepheard saw a very wide and large Country with Riverets and Brookes running heere and there through it and huge Pooles of dead and standing waters Notwithstanding by reason of these and such like fables this Hole is reckoned for one of the wonders of England neither are there wanting the like tales of another Cave but especially of that which is called Elden Hole wherein there is nothing to bee wondred at but that it is of an huge widnesse exceeding steepe and of a mervailous depth But whosoever have written that there should bee certaine tunnels and breathing holes out of which windes doe issue they are much deceived Neither doe these Verses of Alexander Necham which hee wrote as touching the Mervailes of England agree to any of these two holes Est specus Aeolijs ventis obnoxia semper Impetus è gemino maximus ore venit Cogitur injectum velamen adire supernas Partes descensum impedit aura potens A Cave to strong Aeolian windes alwaies enthral'd there is From two-fold tunnell maine great blasts arise and never misse A cloth or garment cast therein by force aloft is sent A mighty breath or powrfull puffe doth hinder all descent But all the memorable matters in this high and rough stony little Country one hath comprised in these foure Verses Mira alto Pecco tria sunt barathrum specus antrum Commoda tot plumbum gramen ovile pecus Tot speciosa simul sunt Castrum Balnea Chatsworth Plura sed occurrunt quae speciosa minùs There are in High Peake Wonders three A deepe Hole Cave and Den Commodities as many bee Lead Grasse and Sheepe in pen. And Beauties three there are withall A Castle Bath Chatsworth With places more yet meet you shall That are of meaner worth To these Wonders may be added a wonderfull Well in the Peake Forest not farre from Buxtons which ordinarily ebbeth and floweth foure times in the space of one houre or thereabout keeping his just Tides and I know not whether Tideswell a Mercate Towne heereby hath his name thereof The Peverels who I have said before were Lords of Nottingham are also reported to have beene Lords of Darby Afterward King Richard the First gave and confirmed unto his brother John the Counties and Castles of Nottingham Lancaster Darby c. with the honours thereto belonging with the honour also of Peverell After him these were Earles of Derby out of the family of Ferrars so far as I am able to gather out of the Registers of Tutbury Merivall and Burton Monasteries William Ferrars sonne to the Daughter and heire of Peverell whom King John with his owne hand as we finde in an ancient Charter invested Earle of Darby William his sonne who bruised with a fall out of his Coach died in the yeere 1254. And this Williams sonne Robert who in the Civill Warre lost this Title and a great estate by forfeiture in such sort as that none of his posterity although they lived in great port and reputation were ever restored to that honor againe But most of this Roberts possessions K. Henry the Third passed over unto Edmund his owne younger son and King Edward the Third I write out of the very originall Record by authority and advise of the Parliament ordained Henry of Lancaster the sonne of Henry Earle of Lancaster Earle of Darby to him and his heires and withall assigned unto him a thousand markes yeerely during the life of his father Henry Earle of Lancaster From that time this Title was united to the line of Lancaster untill King Henry the Seventh bestowed the same upon Thomas Lord Stanley who before had wedded Margaret the Kings mother to him and the heires males of his body He had for his successour his Grandsonne Thomas begotten by George his sonne of Ioan the heire of the Lord Strange of Knocking this Thomas had by the sister of George Earle of Huntingdon Edward the third Earle of this Family highly commended for hospitality and affability who by the Lady Dorothy Daughter to the first Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke begat Henry the fourth Earle efts-once honourably employed who left by Lady Margaret Daughter of Henry Earle of Cumberland Ferdinand and William successively Earles of Darby Ferdinand dyed in strange manner in the flower of his youth leaving by Margaret his Wife Daughter of Sir John Spenser of Althorp three Daughters Anne marryed to Grey Bruges Lord Chandos Francis Wife to Sir Iohn Egerton and Elizabeth Wife to Henry Earle of Huntingdon William the sixth Earle now enjoyeth that Honour having issue by Elizabeth Daughter to Edward late Earle of Oxford ANd thus much of the Counties of Nottingham and Darby of which they inhabited a part who in Bedes time were called Mercij Aquilonares that is The Northern Mercians for that they dwelt beyond the Trent Northward and they held as hee saith The land of seven thousand Families This County holdeth in it Parishes 106. CORNAVII HAving now travailed in order through the Countries of the ancient CORITANI I am to survey the Regions confining which in ancient time the people called CORNABII or CORNAVII inhabited The derivation or Etymologie of whose name let others sift out As for my selfe I could draw the force and signification of that word to this and that diversly but seeing none of them doth aptly answere to the nature of the place or disposition of the people
watereth Eovesham so called as the Monkes write of one Eoves Swinheard to Egwin Bishop of Worcester whereas before time the name of it was Eâ—th-home and Heath-field A very proper Towne situate upon an hill arising from the River in the Suburb as it were whereof was sometime Bengeworth Castle at the Bridge head which Castle William de Audevill the Abbot recovered by law against William Beauchamp utterly rased it and caused the place to be hallowed for a Church-yard A Towne this is well knowne by reason of the Abbay which that noble Egwin with the helpe of King Kenred the sonne of Wolpher King of the Mercians founded about the yeere of our Lord 700. knowne likewise for the vale under it named thereof The Vale of Evesham which for plentifull fertility hath well deserved to be called the Garnary of all these countries so good and plentifull is the ground in yeelding the best corne aboundantly But most knowne in elder time by occasion of the great overthrow of the Barons and our Catiline Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester For this man being of a lewd disposition and profound perfidiousnesse hath taught us that which another truly said That good turnes are so long acceptable as they may be requitable For when King Henry the Third had with full hand heaped upon him all the benefits he could yea and given him his owne sister in marriage what other fruit reaped he of his so great bounty but most bitter and deadly hatred For he raised a most dangerous Warre hee spoiled shamefully a great part of England under pretense of restoring the common wealth and maintaining liberty neither left he any thing undone to bring the King under to change the State and of a Monarchy to bring in an Oligarchy But in the end after that fortune had for a good while favourably smiled upon him he was slaine at this place with many others of his complices by the prowesse of Prince Edward and forthwith the sinke of lawlesse rebels being as it were pumped and emptied out of the common weale joyfull peace which hee had banished shone againe most comfortably on every side Upon the same River hard by standeth Charleton the possession sometime of the ancient family of Hansacres Knights but now of the Dinleies or Dingleies who being descended from that ancient stocke of the Dinleies in Lancashire came unto this by hereditary succession More beneath in the primitive Church of our English Nation there was another place wherein religious men lived to God then called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now Flatbury and neere unto it Pershor in the English Saxons language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 taking the name from Peares which as we reade in that worthy Historiographer William of Malmesbury Egelward Duke of Dorset a man bearing no nigardly minde but exceeding liberall founded and finished in King Eadgars time But what detriment hath it sustained one part of it the ambition of the rich seized upon another part oblivion hath buried but the greatest portion King Edward the Confessour and King William bestowed upon the Church of Westminster Then receiveth Avon a Riveret from the North upon which standeth Hodington a seat of the Winters out of which were Robert Winter and his brother Thomas who when as they were of the hellish damned crew in the Gunpowder Treason let their memory lie damned From thence Avon running gently downe by Strensham the habitation of the Russels Knights by degree of ancient descent in the end out-ladeth his owne streame into Severn Neere to these places on this South side is Oswaldslaw Hundred so called of Oswald Bishop of Worcester who obtained it for himselfe of King Eadgar The immunity whereof when William Conquerour made a Survey and taxation of all England was registred in the Domesday booke after this manner The Church of Saint Mary of Worcester hath the Hundred called Oswaldslaw wherein lye 300. Hides out of which the Bishop of the same Church by ancient order and custome hath all the revenewes of Soches and all customes or duties there appertaining to the Lords victuall and the Kings service and his owne so that no Sheriffe may hold there any action or suit neither in any plea nor in any other cause whatsoever This witnesseth the whole County A place there is about this Shire but precisely where it should be is not certainly knowne called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Augustines Oke at which Augustine the Apostle of the Englishmen and the Bishops of Britaine met and after they had disputed and debated the matter hotely for a good while touching the celebration of Easter preaching Godâ— Word also to the English Nation and of administring Baptisme according to the rites of the Roman Church in the end when they could not agree they departed on both sides with discontented mindes upon their dissenting opinions This Province since the Normans comming in had for the first Sheriffe Vrsus or Vrso de Abtot unto whom and his heires King William the Conquerour granted that office together with faire and large possessions After him succeeded his sonne Roger who as William of Malmesbury the Historiographer reporteth enjoying his fathers possessions through the high displeasure and indignation of King Henry the first was disseized thereof because in a furious fit of anger hee had commanded one of the Kings Officers to be killed But this Sheriffedome was by Emeline this Rogers sister translated hereditarily into the Family of the Beauchamps For she was married to Walter Beauchamp whom king Stephen after he had put downe Miles of Glocester ordained Constable of England Within some few yeeres king Stephen created Walleran Earle of Mellent twin-brother to Robert Bossu Earle of Leicester the first Earle of Worcester having given unto him the Citie of Worcester who afterwards became a Monke and died at Pratellae in Normandie in the yeere 1166. As for his sonne Robert who had wedded the daughter of Reginald Earle of Cornwall and advanced the Standard of rebellion against King Henry the Second and Peter his sonne who in the yeere 1203. revolted to the French neither of them used the title of Worcester but onely of Mellent so farre as ever I could yet read For King Henry the Second who succeeded Stephen would not easily suffer that any under him should enjoy the honors received from Stephen an usurper and his enemy For as I finde in the Annales of Waverley Abbay he put downe those imaginary and counterfeit Earles among whom King Stephen had inconsideratly distributed and given away all the revenewes pertaining to the Exchequer Neither to my knowledge was there any one that bare the title of the Earldome of Worcester untill the daies of King Richard the Second For he bestowed it upon Sir Thomas Percy who when he conspired against King Henry the Fourth was taken at the battaile of Shrewsbury and there beheaded Then Sir Richard Beauchamp descended from the Abtots received
Pollesworth by the Marmions of Normandie Lords heereof at what time they erected heere a Collegiat Church wherein are seene some of their Sepulchres and builded a faire Castle which from them by the Frevills came to the house of those Ferrars that descended from a younger brother of the Barons Ferrars of Groby Those Marmions as wee finde written were by inheritance the Kings Champions of England For whensoever any new king of England is crowned the heire of this Family was bound to ride armed in compleat harneis upon a barbd horse into the Kings hall and in a set forme of words challenge to combat with whosoever durst oppose himselfe against the kings right and Title And verily it appeareth upon Records that Alexander Frevill under king Edward the Third by the same service held this Castle Howbeit at the Coronation of king Richard the Second when Baldwin Frevill exhibited his petition for the same it was adjudged from this Family to Sir John Dimock his competitor descended also from Marmion as producing better Records and evidences At Falkesley Bridge aforesaid that I may retire a little that Romane High way Watling street of which I have already spoken and must often speak entreth into this Shire and cutting it through as it were by a streight line goeth Westward into Shropp-shire Which Streete I have I assure you throughly viewed and perused to finde out that ETOCETUM which Antonine the Emperour setteth downe for the next station from MANVESSEDUM or Mancester in Warwick-shire and surely by good happe I have now found it and freely confesse that heeretofore I was farre wide and quite out of the way For just at the same distance that Antonine setteth betweene MANVESSEDUM and ETOCETUM I lighted upon the carkasse of an old little Towne upon the said High way and scarce a mile Southward from Lichfield a Bishops See right well knowne The name of the place at this day is in our common language Wall of the Reliques of an old wall there remaining and taking up much about two acres of ground which they call Castle croft as one would say The Castle Field Over against which on the other side of the street the Inhabitants relate by a tradition from their forefathers that there stood an ancient Towne destroyed long before the Conquest And they shew the very place where by the maine foundation they ghesse the Temple there stood and with all they produce peeces of money coined by the Roman Emperours and found there as most certaine testimonies in this behalfe But that which maketh most for the proofe heereof from hence leadeth the Romane Way called Watling street with a faire apparent and continued causey in manner throughout untill it bee broken off with the River Penck and hath upon it a Stone-bridge at PENNOCRUCIUM so named of the River just at the same distance that Antonine setteth downe Which hath not yet laied away so much as the name for in steed of PENNOCRUCIUM it is now called Penck-ridge But at this day it is little better than a Village famous for an Horse-Faire which the Lord of the place Hugh Blunt obtained of King Edward the Second From hence that way hath nothing memorable upon it in this Shire but a little way off is Brewood a Mercate Towne where the Bishops of this Diocesse had an habitation before the Conquest and then neere unto Weston is a cleere Poole spread very broad by which that notable way holdeth on a direct course to Oken-Yate in Shrop-shire Now are wee to visite the middle part of this Shire which Trent watereth in the description whereof I purpose to follow the course and windings of the River from the very spring and head thereof as my best guide Trent that by his due right chalengeth to himselfe the third place among all the Rivers of England runneth out of two Fountaines being neere neighbours together in the North part of this shire among the moores Certaine unskilfull and idle headed have dreamed that it was so named of Trent a French word that signifieth Thirty and thereupon also have feigned that thirty Rivers runne into it and as many kindes of fishes live therein the names whereof the people dwelling thereby were wont to sing in an English rhyme neither make they doubt to ascribe that unto this Trent which the Hungarians avouch of their River Tibiscus namely that two parts of it are water and the third fish From his spring heads Trent trickleth downe first Southward fetching many a compasse not farre from New Castle under Lime so called of another more ancient Castle that flourished in times past hard by at Chesterton under Lime where I saw tottered and torne the walls of a Castle which by the gift of King John belonged first unto Ranulph Earle of Chester and afterwards by the bounteous favour of King Henry the Third unto the House of Lancaster Thence by Trent-ham sometime Tricing-ham a little Monastery of that holy virgin Saint Werburg of the bloud royall hee hasteneth to Stone a Mercate Towne which having the beginning in the Saxons time tooke that name of the Stones that our Ancestours after a solemne sort had cast on a heape to notifie the place where Wolpher that heathenish King of the Mercians most cruelly slew his two sonnes Wulfald and Rufin because they had taken upon them the profession of Christianity In which place when Posterity in memoriall of them had consecrated a little Church straight wayes there arose and grew up a Towne which of those stones had the name Stone given unto it as the History of Peterborrough hath recorded Beyond Stone runneth Trent mildly by Sandon the seat in times past of the Staffords most worthy Knights but lately by inheritance from them of Sampson Erdeswicke a very great lover and diligent searcher of venerable Antiquity and in this regard no lesse worthy of remembrance than for that he is directly in the male line descended from Sir Hugh Vernon Baron of Shipbroc the name being changed by the use of that age according to sundry habitations first into Holgrave and afterwards into Erdeswicke Heere Trent turneth his course aside Eastward and on the South hath Canocwood commonly called Cankwood spred farre and wide and at length entertaineth the River Sow which breaketh out in a hard Country neere Healy Castle built by the Barons of Aldalegh or Audley unto whom Hervey Lord Stafford gave that place like as Theobald Verdon gave Aldelegh it selfe This hath beene a Family of high respect and great honour and of the same stem out of which the Stanleies Earles of Darby derive their Descent Strange it is to reade what lands King Henry the Third confirmed unto Henry Audeley which were bestowed upon him by the bounty of the Peeres yea and private Gentlemen not only in England but also in Ireland where Hugh Lacy Earle of Vlster gave him lands with the Constableship of
Pagans for the propagation of Christs true religion built heere a Church and ordeined Duina the first Bishop whose successors found such favour at their Princes hand that they had not onely the preheminence among all the Bishops of the Mercians and the greatest possessions given unto them for their use as Cankwood or Canock a very great wood and other faire lands and Lordships but also this Church had an Archbishop that sat in it namely Eadulph unto whom Pope Adrian granted an Archiepiscopall Pall and subjected under him all the Bishops of the Mercians and East Angles mooved thereunto with golden reasons by Offa King of the Mercians to spite Lambert the Archbishop of Canterbury who had promised to aide Charles the Great if he would invade England But this Archiepiscopall dignity died together with Offa and Eadulph But among all the Bishops of this See Chadd was of greatest fame and canonized a Saint for his holinesse who as Bede saith when riotous excesse had not yet possessed the hearts of Bishops made himselfe a mansion house standing not farre remote from the Church wherein he was wont secretly to pray and reade together with a few that is to say seven or eight religious men as oft as he had any vacant time from painefull preaching and ministery of the word unto the people In those daies Lichfield was a small towne farre short of the frequency of Cities the Country about it full of woods and a little river runneth hard by it The Church was seated in a narrow roome evidently shewing the meane estate and abstinence of our ancestours When as in the Synode holden in the yeere of our Lord 1075. it was forbidden that Bishops Sees should lie obscure in meane and small Townes Peter Bishop of Lichfield translated his See to Chester but Robert Linsey his successour remooued the same unto Coventry A little after Roger Clinton brought it backe againe to Lichfield and beganne to build in the yeere of Christ 1148. this most beautifull Church in the honour of the blessed virgin Mary at Saint Ceda or Chad and repaired the Castle which now is utterly vanished As for the towne it was made first an Incorporation in our Fathers remembrance by King Edward the Sixth by the name of Bailiffs and Burgesses It seeth the Pole Artick elevated two and fifty degrees and two and forty minutes and from the farthest point of the West counteth one and twenty degrees and twenty minutes This Poole of Lichfield being by and by kept and restreined within bankes and spreading broader the second time but gathering againe into a chanell is quickly swallowed into Trent who continueth his course East-ward untill he meeteth with the river of Tame from the South with whom Trent being now coupled turneth aside his streame Northward through places that yeeld great store of Alabaster that he might the sooner entertaine Dow and so almost insulateth or encompasseth Burton a Towne in times past of name by reason of workers in Alabaster a Castle of the Ferrars built in the Conquerors time an ancient Abbay founded by Ulfrick Spot Earle of Mercia and the retyring place of Modwen that holy Irish woman who there dedicated her selfe first to the service of God Concerning which Abbay the Leger-booke of Abingdon recordeth thus A certaine servitour of King Aetheldred named Ulfrick Spot built the Abbay of Burton and gave unto it all the inheritance that came by his Father esteemed worth seven hundred pounds and that this his donation might stand good and sure he gave unto King Aetheldred three hundred Mankus of gold for his confirmation and to every Bishop five Mankus and beside to Alfrick Archbishop of Canterbury the Towne Dumbleton Whereby wee may understand that there was a golden world then and that gold swaied much yea in Church matters and among Church-men In this abbay the said Modwen whose holinesse was much celebrated in this tract lay buried and upon her Tombe were engraven for an Epitaph these verses Ortum Modwennae dat Hibernia Scotia finem Anglia dat tumulum dat Deus astra poli Prima dedit vitam sed mortem terra secunda Et terram terrae tertia dedit Auffert Lanfortin quam terra Conallea profert Foelix Burtonium virginis ossa tenet In Ireland Modwen who began in Scotland tooke her end England on her a Tombe bestow'd to Heaven God did her send The first of these lands gave her life the second wrought her death And earth to earth in decent sort the third land did bequeath Lanfortin taketh that away which once Tir-Connell gave And Burton blest whose hap it is this virgines bones to have Neere unto Burton betwixt these three rivers Dove Trent and Blith the which watereth and nameth Blithfield a faire house of the ancient and worthy Family of the Bagots Needwood a very large wood and full of parkes spreadeth it selfe Wherein the Nobility and Gentlemen dwelling thereabout take their jolly pleasure and disport themselves in hunting Thus much of the places in the midle part of this shire The North part riseth up and swelleth somewhat mountainous with moores and hilles but of no great bignesse which beginning here runs like as Apennine doth in Italie through the middest of England with a continued ridge rising more and more with divers tops and cliffs one after another even as far as to Scotland although oftentimes they change their name For heere they are called Mooreland after a while the Peak Blackstone edge then Craven anon as they goe further Stanmore and at length being parted diversly as it were into hornes Cheviot This Mooreland so called for that it riseth higher into hils and mountaines and is withall lesse fruitfull which kind of places we call in our language Moores is a small country verily so hard so comfortlesse bare and cold that it keepeth snow lying upon it a long while in so much as that of a little country village named Wotton lying here under Woverhill the neighbor inhabitants have this rime rise in their mouth as if God forsooth had never visited that place Wotton under Wever Where God came never Yet in so hard a soile it breedeth and feedeth beasts of large bulke and faire spread The people heere dwelling observe that when the winde sitteth West it is alwaies raine but the East and Southwinde which in other places brew and broach raine bring faire weather unlesse the winde turne from West into the South and this they ascribe unto the vicinity of the Irish Sea Out of these Moores most rivers in this shire doe spring but the chiefe are Dove Hanse Churnet Teyn Blith and Trent himselfe who receiveth every one of them and conveieth them all to the Sea Dow or Dove whose bankes are reared out of solid hard lime stone which they burne and use for compast to manure and enrich their fields with all doth swiftly runne along the most part of the East side of this Country
and separateth it from Darby-shire holding on his course in a Cleyish channell without any beds or shelves of mud through a soile consisting of the said Lime-stone from whence it sucketh out such fertilitie that in the very middest of Winter the Medowes on both the bankes sides carry a most pleasant and fresh greene hew but if it chance to swell above the bankes and overflow the Medowes in Aprill it battelleth them like another Nilus and maketh them so fruitfull that the inhabitants use commonly to chant this joyfull note In Aprill Doves flood Is worth a Kings good This river in twelve houres space useth so to rise that it harieth and carrieth away with it sheepe and other cattaile to the great terror of the people dwelling thereby but within the same time againe it falleth and returnes within his owne bankes whereas Trent being once up and over his bankes floweth upon the fields foure or five daies together but now come we to the rivers that run into it The first is Hans which being swallowed up under the ground breaketh up againe three miles off Then admitteth he the fellowship of the river Churnet who passeth by De-la-Cres Abbay built by Ranulph the third of that name Earle of Chester by Leike also a well knowne Mercat towne and by Aulton a Castle in times past belonging to the Barons Verdon who founded heere the Abbay of Croxden from whom by the Furnivals it descended to the Talbots Earles of Shrewsbury A little below runneth Teyn a small brooke into Dove which having his head not far from Cheddle the ancient seat of the Bassets who derive their pedegree from the Bassets of Draiton creepeth on in such a winding and crooked chanell that within one mile I was faine to passe over it foure times Neere unto it in Checkley Church-yard there stand three stones upright erected in maner of a Pyramides two of them have little images engraven upon them but that in the middest is highest The inhabitants report by tradition that a battaile was fought there betweene two hosts of which the one was armed the other unarmed and that in it were three Bishops slaine in memoriall of whom these stones were set up But what Historicall truth indeed lieth heerein enfolded I know not as yet As for Blith it hath in this Moreland Careswell a Castler situate upon it which Sir William Careswell built with great ponds having their heads made of square stones and Draicot which gave surname to a family of great antiquity in this County But Dove after it hath received Tine having a faire bridge made over it of most hard stone and defended with piles runneth under Vtcester in ' the Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Vttoxather situate upon the side of an hill with a gentle ascent a towne more rich in gay flowring medowes and in cattaile than faire built which before I saw it the name was so favourable to my conjecture I thought in vaine to have been the ancient ETOCETUM But now time hath taught me more certeinty After this when Dove is now come neerer unto Trent it visiteth Tutbury Castle in times past a large and stately thing which also is called Stutesbury and from an Alabaster hill top on which it stands threatneth as it were the whole country underneath It was built together with a little Monastery by Henry de Ferrars a Noble man of Normandy unto whom King William the First had given great lands and revenewes in this shire all which Robert de Ferrars Earle of Darby lost after he had revolted a second time from King Henry the Third For this Robert when after many troubles which he had raised in the Barons war hee was received into the Kings favour and had bound himselfe with a corporall oth in expresse and formall words that he would continue ever after loyall to his liege Lord yet was the man of such a stirring and restlesse spirit that to break and knap in peeces quite that fortune which he could not bend he put on armes against his Soveraigne and being at length taken prisoner that I may use the very words of the Record according to the forme of his obligation made this great forfeiture both of his fortunes and dignities There is in some place of this shire a lake if Alexander Necham deceive us not into which no wilde beast will in any wise enter but since the place is uncertaine and the thing it selfe more uncertaine I will onely put downe underneath these his verses before which he prefixed this Title De Lacu in Staffordia Rugitu Lacus est eventus praeco futuri Cujus aquis fera se credere nulla solet Instet odora canum virtus mors instet acerba Non tamen intrabit exagitata lacum Of a Lake in Stafford-shire A Lake there is that roreth loud whereby things are fore-showne The water whereof once to take wild beasts were never knowne Let hounds let death pursue apace them for to overtake For all this chase and hot pursuite none enter will the Lake Of another Poole or Lake also in this Country thus writeth Gervase of Tilbury in his Otia Imperialia unto Otho the fourth In the Bishopricke of Coventry and County of Stafford at the foot of an hill which the inborne people of the Country have named Mahull there is a water spread abroad in maner of a Meere in the territory of a Village which they tearme Magdalea In this Meere or Marsh there is a most cleere water and an infinite number of woods beside joyning one unto another which hath such an effectuall vertue in refreshing of bodies that so often as Hunters have chased Stagges and other Deere untill their Horses be tired if in the greatest heate of the scorching Sunne they taste of this water and offer it unto their Horses for to drinke they recover their strength of running againe which they had lost and become so fresh as one would thinke they had not run at all But whereabout this is I cannot yet learne by all my diligent inquiry As for the title of Stafford it remaineth ever since Robert de Stafford whom King William of Normandy enriched with great possessions even untill our time in his line and progeny A family as noble and ancient as any other but upon which fortune hath otherwhiles by turnes both frowned and fawned For first they were Barons of Stafford then five of them Earles of Stafford Ralfe created by King Edward the Third Earle of Stafford who married the heire of Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester Hugh his sonne who died in Pilgrimage at Rhodes and his three sonnes successively Thomas and William both issuelesse and Edmund who married the daughter and heire of Thomas of Woodstock Duke of Buckingham Afterward three of them were Dukes of Buckingham and Earles of Stafford c. as is before shewed By the attainder of the last of them those so great inheritances
which their most honorable marriages brought unto them floted away as it were and scattered heere and there In lieu whereof hath ensued a more secure quietnesse which can never cohabite with Greatnesse There are accounted in this Shire Parishes 130. SALOPIAE Comitatus quem CORNAUII olim inceluarunt descriptio SHROPP-SHIRE THe fourth Country of those which as I said the CORNAVII in times past inhabited the English Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee SHROPP-SHIRE and the Latinists Comitatus Salopiensis is farre greater than the rest in quantity and not inferiour to them either for plenty or pleasure On the East side it hath Stafford-shire on the West Montgomery shire and Denbigh-shire on the South side Worcester Hereford and Radnor-shires and on the North Cheshire It is replenished with Townes and Castles standing thicke on every side by reason that it was a Frontier Country or that I may use the tearme of Siculus Flaccus Ager arcifinius in regard of repelling and repressing the Welshmen in the Marches bordering heerupon whereupon our Ancestours by an ancient word named the Confines of this Shire toward Wales the Marches for that they were bounds and limits betweene the Welsh and English and divers Noblemen in this Tract were called Barons of the Marche and Lords Marchers who had every one in their Territory a certaine peculiar jurisdiction and in their owne Courts ministred law unto the Inhabitants with sundry priviledges and immunities and this among other that Writs out of the Kings Courts should in certaine cases have no place nor runne among them Neverthelesse if any controversie arose about a Lordship it selfe or the limits of Lordships they were to resort unto the Kings Courts of justice These also were in times past named in Latin Records Marchiones de Marchia Walliae as Marquesses of the Marches of Wales or Lords Marchers as appeareth evidently by the Red Booke in the Kings Exchequer where wee reade how at the Coronation of Queene Aeleonor Wife to King Henry the Third Marchiones de Marchia Walliae c. that is The Marquesses of the Marches of Wales or Lord Marchers Iohn Fitz-Alane Raulph Mortimer Iohn of Monmouth and Walter Clifford in the name of the Marches said it was the right of the Marches to finde silver speares and to bring them for to support the foure square purple silke cloth at the Coronation of Kings and Queenes of England But the happy tranquillity of peace betweene Wales and England and the Kings authority hath by little and little abrogated all those royalties prerogatives and priviledges which the Lords Marchers enjoyed and insolently exercised over the poore Inhabitants in the Marches Neither yet doe I thinke I thought good to say so much afore-hand that all this Country belonged anciently to the CORNAVII but that part onely which is on this side Severn as for that on the farther side of Severn it pertained to the ORDOVICES who inhabited heere a great Country in this Tract a parcell whereof as also some little Territories on this side Severn which belonged unto the Lords Marchers were not long since laid to this Shire by authority of the Parliament For into these two parts the whole Shire may bee fitly divided seeing that the River Severn cutteth it through in the mids from the West to the South-East In that part beyond Severn the River Temd in British Tifidiaâ—c for some space maketh the South limite into which at length the River Colun in British Colunwy and called contractly Clun issueth it selfe This River Clun breaking forth farther within the Country not farre from a prety Towne well frequented named Bishops Castle because it belonged to the Bishops of Hereford whose Dioecese and jurisdiction is large in this Shire giveth name to Clun Castle which the Fitz Alans descended from one Alan the sonne of Flaold a Norman who were afterwards Earles of Arundell built when they were Lords Marchers against the Welshmen and annoyed them with continuall inrodes into their Country But where it meeteth with Temd among divers doubtfull Fourds there mounteth up an Hill of a very ancient memory which they call Caer Caradoc because about the yeere of our Salvation 53. Caratacus a most noble and renowned British King raised in the front of it a mighty Wall or Rampire of stone and with his people resolutely made it good against Ostorius Lieutenant for the Romanes and the Legionary Romane Souldiers Untill the Romans having forcibly broken through that fence of stones so rudely laid the remaines whereof are to be seene at this day forced the unarmed Britans to quit the place and Hie up to the mountaines Caratacus himselfe notwithstanding escaped by flight but his wife daughter and brethren were taken prisoners And he afterwards as adversity in no place findeth safety being delivered into the hands of Ostorius by Queene Cartismandua unto whose protection he had committed himselfe was carried away to Rome after he had vexed and wearied the Romanes in a long and troublesome warre Where hee obtained pardon for himselfe and his of Claudius the Emperour not by way of any base suppliant intreaty but by a generous and honourable liberty of speech For the winning of this hill and taking of this King captive it was decreed that Ostorius should have Triumphall Ornaments neither did the Senate judge the taking of Caratacus lesse honorable than when Publius Scipio shewed Siphax and L. Paulus presented Perses two vanquished Kings in triumphant manner at Rome And although the compiler of our History hath made mention neither of this Warre nor of this worthy Britan yet the memory thereof is not quite gone with the common people For they confidently give out by tradition that a King was discomfited and put to flight upon this hill and in the British Booke entituled Triades among three of the most renowned Britans for warlike exploits Caradauc Vrichfras is named first so that as I thinke wee should make no doubt but that he was this very Caratacus Then Ludlow in British formerly named Dinan and in later ages Lys-twysoc i. The Princes Palace standeth upon an hill at the meeting of the same Temd with the River Corve a Towne more faire than ancient Roger Montgomery first laid unto it a Castle no lesse beautiful than strong which hangeth over Corve and then raised a Wall about the Towne that taketh about a mile in compasse But when his sonne Robert was attainted King Henry the First kept it in his owne hands and afterwards when it was besieged it valiantly endured the assaults of King Stephen and during that streight siege Henry sonne of the King of Scots being plucked from his saddle with an iron hooked engine had like to have beene haled violently within the Towne wals had not Stephen in person rescued him and with singular valour delivered him from so great a danger After this King Henry the Second gave this Castle together with the
Iustice of the Common Pleas and a very great lover of learning But he hath now taken his quiet sleepe in Christ and left his sonne Sir Roger Owen for his manifold learning a right worthy sonne of so good a father This is holden of the King as we reade in the Records In chiefe to finde two footmen one day in the army of Wales in time of warre Which I note heere once for all to this end that I may give to understand that Gentlemen and Noblemen heereabout held their inheritances of the Kings of England by this tenure to be ready in service with Souldiers for defence of the Marches whensoever there should be any warre betweene England and Wales Neere unto this there is a little Village named Pichford that imparted the name in times past to the ancient Family of Pichford now the Possession of R. Oteley which our Ancestours for that they knew not pitch from Bitumen so called of a fountaine of Bitumen there in a private mans yard upon which there riseth and swimmeth a kinde of liquid Bitumen daily skumme it off never so diligently even as it doth in the Lake Asphaltites in Iewry in a standing water about Samosata and in a spring by Agrigentum in Sicilie But whether this bee good against the falling sicknesse and have a powerfull property to draw to close up wounds c. as that in Iewry none that I know as yet have made experiment More Westward you may see Pouderbach Castle now decayed and ruinous called in times past Pulrebach the seat of Sir Raulph Butler a younger sonne of Raulph Butler Lord Wem from whom the Butlers of Woodhall in Hertford-shire are lineally descended Beneath this Huckstow Forest spreadeth a great way among the mountaines where at Stipperstons bill there be great heapes of stones and little rockes as it were that rise thicke together the Britans call them Carneddau tewion But whereas as these seeme naturall I dare not with others so much as conjecture that these were any of those stones which Giraldus Cambrensis seemeth to note in these words Harald in person being himselfe the last footeman in marching with footemen and light Armours and victuals answerable for service in Wales valiantly went round about and passed through all Wales so as that he left but few or none alive And for a perpetuall memory of this Victory you may finde very many stones in Wales erected after the antique manner upon hillockes in those places wherein hee had beene Conquerour having these words engraven HIC FVIT VICTOR HARALDVS Heere was Harald Conquerour More Northward Caurse Castle standeth which was the Barony of Sir Peter Corbet from whom it came to the Barons of Stafford and Routon Castle neere unto it the most ancient of all the rest toward the West borders of the Shire not farre from Severn which Castle sometimes belonged to the Corbets and now to the ancient Family of the Listers Before time it was the possession of Iohn le Strange of Knocking in despite of whom Lhewellin Prince of Wales laid it even with the ground as we read in the life of Sir Foulque Fitz-Warin It flourished also in the Romans time under the same name tearmed by Antonine the Emperour RUTUNIUM Neither can wee mistake herein seeing both the name and that distance from URICONIUM a towne full well knowne which he putteth downe doe most exactly agree Neere unto this are Abberbury Castle and Watlesbury which is come from the Corbets to the notable family of the Leightons Knights As for the name it seemeth to have taken it from that High Port-way called Watling street which went this way into the farthest part of Wales as Ranulph of Chester writeth by two little Townes of that street called Strettons betweene which in a valley are yet to be seene the rubbish of an old Castle called Brocards Castle and the same set amiddest greene medowes that before time were fish-pooles But these Castles with others which I am scarce able to number and reckon up for the most part of them are now ruinate not by the fury of warre but now at length conquered even with secure peace and processe of time Now crossing over Severne unto that part of the shire on this side the River which I said did properly belong to the ancient CORNAVII This againe is divided after a sort into two parts by the river Terne running from the North Southward so called for that it issueth out of a very large Poole in Stafford-shire such as they of the North parts call Tearnes In the hither part of these twaine which lyeth East neere to the place where Terne dischargeth his waters into Severn stood the ancient URICONIUM for so Antonine the Emperor termeth it which Ptolomee calleth VIROCONIUM Ninnius Caer Vruach the old English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee Wreckceter and Wroxcester This was the chiefe City of the CORNAVII built as it seemeth by the Romans what time as they fortified this banke of Severn in this place where the river is full of fourds as it is not elsewhere lower toward the mouth thereof But this being sore shaken in the Saxons warre fell to utter decay in the Danish broiles and now it is a very small country Towne of poore Husbandmen and presenteth often times to those that aire the ground Roman Coines to testifie in some sort the antiquity thereof Besides them I saw nothing of antiquity but in one place some few parcels of broken walles which the common people call The old worke of Wroxceter This Wall was built of rough stone distinguished outwardly with seven rowes of British brickes in equall distance and brought up with arched worke inwardly I conjecture by the uneven ground by the Rampires and the rubbish of the wall heere and there on either side that the Castle stood in that very place where these ruines remaine But where the plot of the City lay and that was of a great compasse the Soile is more blackish than elsewhere and plentifully yeeldeth the best barley in all this quarter Beneath this City that Port-way of those Romans knowne by the name of Watling street went as I have heard say directly albeit the ridge thereof now appeareth not either through a fourd or over a Bridge the foundations whereof were of late a little higher discovered when they did set a Weare in the River unto the Strattons that is to say Townes upon the Streete whereof I spake even now The ancient name of this decaied URICONIUM sheweth it selfe very apparently in an hill loftily mounting neere thereunto called Wreken hill some Writers terme it Gilberts hill from the top whereof which lyeth in a plaine pleasant levell there is a very delightfull prospect into the Country beneath on every side This Hill runneth out in length a good space as it were attired on the sides with faire spread trees But under it where Severn rolleth downe
with his streame at Buldewas commonly Bildas there flourished a faire Abbay the Sepulture in times past of the noble Family of the Burnels Patrons thereof Higher into the Country there is a Mansion or Baiting Towne named Watling street of the situation upon the foresaid Rode way or street And hard by it are seene the Reliques of Castle Dalaley which after that Richard Earle of Arundell was attainted King Richard the Second by authority of the Parliament annexed to the Principality of Chester which hee had then erected And not farre from the foote of the foresaid Wreken in an hollow Valley by that high street before mentioned Oken-yate a little Village well knowne for the plentifull delfe there of pit-cole lieth so beneath and just at the same distance as Antonine placeth VSOCONA both from URICONIUM and also from PENNOCRUCIUM that no man need to doubt but that this Oken-yate was that USOCONA Neither doth the name it selfe gainesay it for this word Ys which in the British tongue signifieth Lowe may seeme added for to note the low situation thereof On the other side beneath this Hill appeareth Charleton Castle in ancient times belonging to the Charletons Lords of Powis and more Eastward next of all unto Staffordshire Tong-Castle called in old time Toang which the Vernons not long since repaired as also the College within the Towne which the Pembridges as I have read first founded Neither have the Inhabitants any thing heere more worth shewing than a Bell for the bignesse thereof very famous in all those parts adjoyning Hard to this lieth Albrighton which in the Raigne of King Edward the First was the seat of Sir Raulph de Pichford but now of the Talbotts branched from the Family of the Earles of Shrewesbury But above Tong was Lilleshul Abbay in a woodland Country founded by the family of Beaumeis whose heire was marryed into the house of De La Zouch But seeing there is little left but ruines I will leave it and proceed forward Beyond the river Terne on the brinke thereof standeth Draiton where in the civill warres between the houses of Lancaster and Yorke a field was fought that cost many a Gentleman of Cheshire his life For they although the battaile was given up almost on even hand when they could not agree among themselves but tooke part with both sides were slaine by heapes and numbers on either side Beneath this Draiton and nere enough to Terne lieth Hodnet wherein dwelt sometimes Gentlemen of the same name from whom hereditarily it is come by the Ludlows unto the Vernons It was held in times past of the Honour of Mont-Gomery by service to bee Seneschall or Steward of the same Honour After this Terne having passed haâ—d by certaine little rurall Townes taketh in unto him the Riveret Roden and when hee hath gone a few miles further neere unto Uriconium of which I spake even now falleth into the Severn Upon this Roden whiles hee is but new come from his spring head standeth Wem where are to be seene the tokens of a Castle long since begun there to be built This was the Barony after the first entry of the Normans of William Pantulph from whose Posterity it came at length to the Butlers and from them by the Ferrars of Ousley and the Barons of Greystock unto the Barons D'acre of Gillesland Within a little of this upon an high hill well wooded or upon a cliffe rather which sometime was called Radcliffe stood a Castle mounted aloft called of the reddish stone Red-Castle and in the Normans language Castle Rous the seat in old time of the Audleies through the liberall bounty of Lady Maude Le Strange But now there remaineth no more but desolate walles which yet make a faire shew Scarce a mile from hence lyeth all along the dead carcasse as it were of a small City now well neere consumed But the peeces of Romane money and those brickes which the Romans used in building there found doe testifie the antiquity and founders thereof The neighbour Inhabitants use to call it Bery as one would say Burgh and they report that it was a most famous place in King Arthurs daies as the common sort ascribe whatsoever is ancient and strange to King Arthurs glory Then upon the same River Morton Corbet anciently an house of the Family of Turet afterward a Castle of the Corbets sheweth it selfe where within our remembrance Robert Corbet carryed away with the affectionate delight of Architecture began to build in a barraine place a most gorgeous and stately house after the Italians modell But death prevented him so that he left the new worke unfinished and the old Castle defaced These Corbets are of ancient Nobility in this Shire and held Lordships by service of Roger Montgomery Earle of this County about the comming in of the Normans for Roger the son of Corbet held Huelebec Hundeslit Acton Fern-leg c. Robert the sonne of Corbet held land in Ulestanton Rotlinghop Branten and Udecot And in later ages this family farre and fairely propagated received encrease both of revenew and great alliance by the marriage of an heire of Hopton More Southward standeth Arcoll the habitation of the Newports knights of great worship descended from the Barons Grey of Codnor and the Lords of Mothwy and neere unto it is Hagmond Abbay which the Lords Fitz Alanes if they did not found yet they most especially endowed Not much lower upon Severn standeth most pleasantly the famousest City for so it was called in Domesday booke of this Shire risen by the ruine of Old Uriconium which wee at this day call Shrewsbury and Shrowsbury having mollified the name whereas our Ancestours called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for that it was anciently a very thicket of shrobs upon an hill In which sense both the Greekes tearmed their Bessa and our Welsh Britans named this also Pengwerne that is The high plot planted with Alders and a Palace so named continued heere a long time But whence it is that it is called now in the British tongue Ymwithig and by the Normans Scropesbery Sloppesbery and Salop and in the Latin tongue Salopia I am altogether ignorant unlesse it should bee the ancient name Scobbes-beng diversely distorted and dis-jointed Yet some skilfull in the British tongue thinke verily it is called Ymwithig as one would say Placentia or Plaisance of a British word Mewithau and that their Poets the Bardi so named it because of all others it best pleased the Princes of Wales in times past It is seated upon an Hill of a reddish earth and Severn having two very faire Bridges upon it gathering himselfe in manner round in forme of a circle so compasseth it that were it not for a small banke of firme land it might goe for an Island And thence it is that Leland the Antiquarian Poet wrote thus Edita Penguerni latè fastigia splendent Urbs sita lunatâ— veluti
worthy and heroicall a Knight ORATE PRO ANIMA PRAENOBILIS DOMINI DOMINI JOANNIS TALBOTT QVONDAM COMITIS SALOPIAE DOMINI TALBOTT DOMINI FURNIVALL DOMINI VERDON DOMINI STRANGE DE BLACK-MERE ET MARESCALLI FRANCIAE QUI OBIIT IN BELLO APUD BURDEVVS VII IULII M. CCCC.LIII That is Pray for the Soule of the right Noble Lord Sir John Talbot sometimes Earle of Shrewsburie Lord Talbot Lord Furnivall Lord Verdon Lord Strange de Black-Mere and Mareshall of France Who died in the battaile at Burdews VII IULII M. CCCC LIII Unto this Family of the Talbots there accrued by marriage-right the inheritance of the Barons Le Strange of Blackmere who were surnamed Le Strange commonly and Extranei in Latine records for that they were strangers brought hether by King Henrie the Second and in short time their house was far propagated These of Blackmere were much inriched by an heire of W. de Albo-monasterio or this Whit-Church and also by one of the heires of John Lord Giffard of Brimsfield of ancient Nobility in Glocester-shire by the onely daughter of Walter Lord Clifford More Westward lieth Ellesmer a little territorie but rich and fruitfull which as the Chronologie of Chester testifieth King John gave with the Castle to Lhewellin Prince of North-Wales in marriage with Joane his base daughter Afterwards in the time of King Henry the Third it came to the Family of the Stranges But now it hath his Baron Sir Thomas Egerton a man whom for his singular wisdome and sincere equity Queene Elizabeth chose to be Lord Keeper of the great Seale and King Iames making him Lord Chancellour advanced to the highest Honour of the long roabe and withall adorned with the Honorable title of Baron of Ellesmer Now let us briefely adde somewhat of the Earles of Shrewsbury Roger de Belesmo otherwise Montgomery was created the first Earle of Shrewsbury by King William the Conquerour unto whom he allotted also the greatest part of this Shire After him succeeded first his eldest sonne Hugh slaine in Wales without issue Then Robert another of his sonnes a man outragiously cruell toward his owne sonnes and hostages whose eyes with his owne hands he plucked out and gelded But afterwards being convict of high Treason he was kept in perpetuall prison by King Henry the first and so suffered condigne punishment for his notorious wickednesse Then was his Earledome made over unto Queene Adeliza for her dowry Many ages after King Henry the Sixth in the 20. yeere of his reigne promoted to this honour Iohn Lord Talbot whom both Nature bred and his disposition inured unto warlike prowesse And in the 24. yeere of his reigne he bestowed moreover upon the same Iohn whom in the Patent he calleth Earle of Shrewsbery and of Weisford the title of Earle of Waterford the Barony of Dongarvan and the Seneschalsie or Stewardship of Ireland But when he was slaine at Castilion upon Dordon neere Burdeaux together with his younger sonne Sir John Talbot Vicount L'isle after he had foure and twenty yeeres together marched with victorious armes over a great part of France his sonne Iohn by the daughter and one of the heires of Sir Thomas Nevill Lord Furnivall succeeded who siding with the house of Lancaster was slaine fighting valorously in the forefront of the battaile of Northampton From him by a daughter of the Earle of Ormond came Iohn the third Earle of Shrewsbury and Sir Gilbert Talbot Captaine of Callis from whom the Talbots of Graston descended This third Iohn had by his wife Katherine daughter to H. Duke of Buckingham George the fourth Earle who served King Henry the Seventh valiantly and constantly at the battaile of Stoke And he by Anne his wife daughter of William Lord Hastings had Francis the fifth Earle who begat of Mary daughter to Thomas Lord Dacre of Gillesland George the sixth Earle aman of approoved fidelity in weighty affaires of State whose sonne Gilbert by his wife Gertrud daughter to Thomas Earle of Rutland the seventh Earle maintaineth at this day his place left unto him by his ancestours with right great honour and commendation for his vertues In this region there are Parishes much about 170. CESTRIAE Comitatus Romanis Legionibus-et Colonijis olim insignis vera et obseluta descriptio CHES-SHIRE THE fifth and last of those Countries which in old time the CORNAVII held is the County of CHESTER in the Saxons Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly CHES-SHIRE and The County Palatine of Chester for that the Earles thereof had Royalties and princely Priviledges belonging to them and all the Inhabitants owed Allegeance and fealty to them as they did to the King As for this tearme Palatine that I may rehearse againe that which I have said before of this name was in times past common to all those who bare any Office in the Kings Court or Palace and in that age Comes Palatinus was a Title of Dignity conferred upon him who before was Palatinus with authority to heare and determine Causes in his owne Territory and as well his Nobles whom they called Barons as his Vassals were bound to repaire to the Palace of the said Count both to give him advise and also to give their attendance and furnish his Court with their presence This Country as William of Malmesbury saith Is scarce of Corne but especially of Wheat yet plentifull in Cattaile and fish Howbeit Ranulph the Monke of Chester affirmeth the contrary Whatsoever Malmesbury dreamd saith hee upon the relation of others it aboundeth with all kinde of victuals plenteous in Corne flesh fish and salmons especially of the very best it maintaineth trade with many commodities and maketh good returne For why in the Confines thereof it hath salt pits mines and metals And this moreover will I adde the grasse and fodder there is of that goodnesse and vertue that cheeses bee made heere in great number of a most pleasing and delicate taste such as all England againe affordeth not the like no though the best dayriwomen otherwise and skilfullest in cheese making be had from hence And whiles I am writing this I cannot chuse but mervaile by the way at that which Strabo writeth That in his time some Britans could not skill of making Cheese and that Plinie afterwards wondered That barbarous Nations who lived of milke either knew not or despised for so many ages the commodity of Cheese who otherwise had the feat of crudding it to a pleasant tartnesse and to fat buâ—yr Whereby it may be gathered that the devise of making Cheese came into Britaine from the Romans But howsoever this Region in fertility of soile commeth behinde many Countries in England yet hath it alwaies bred and reared more Gentry than the rest For you have not in all England againe any one Province beside that in old time either brought more valorous Gentlemen into the field or had more Families in it of Knights degree On the Southside it is hemmed
the long traine and consequents of things as also whatsoever throughout the world hath beene done by all persons in all places and at all times and what ever hath beene all done may also bee avoided and taken heed of Which City having foure Gates from the foure cardinall Windes on the East side hath a prospect toward India on the West toward Ireland North-Eastward the greater Norway and Southward that streight and narrow Angle which divine severity by reason of civill and home-discords hath left unto the Britans Which long since by their bitter variance have caused the name of Britaine to bee changed into the name of England Over and beside Chester hath by Gods gift a River to enrich and adorne it the same faire and fishfull hard by the City Walles and on the South side a rode and harbour for shippes comming from Gascoine Spaine and Germany which with the helpe and direction of Christ by the labour and wisedome of Merchants repaire and refresh the heart of the City with many good things that wee being comforted every way by our Gods Grace may also drinke Wine often more frankely and plenteously because those Countries enjoy the fruite of the Vineyards aboundantlie Moreover the open Sea ceaseth not to visite it every day with a Tide which according as the broad shelves and barres of sands are opened or hidden by Tides and Ebbes incessantly is wont more or lesse either to send or exchange one thing or other and by his reciprocall Flow and returnes either to bring in or to carry out somewhat From the City North-Westward there shooteth out a languet of land or Promontory of the maine land into the Sea enclosed on the one side with Dee mouth on the other side with the River Mersey wee call it Wirall the Welsh Britans for that it is an Angle tearme it Kill-gury In old time it was all forest and not inhabited as the Dwellers report but King Edward the Third disforested it Yet now beset it is with Townes on every side howbeit more beholding to the Sea than to the Soile for the land beareth small plenty on Corne the water yeeldeth great store of fish At the entry into it on the South side standeth Shotwich a Castle of the Kings upon the salt water Upon the North standeth Hooten a Mannour which in King Richard the Second his time came to the Stanleies who fetch their Pedegree from Alane Silvestre upon whom Ranulph the first of that name Earle of Chester conferred the Bailly-wick of the Forest of Wirall by delivering unto him an horne Close unto this is Poole from whence the Lords of the place that have a long time flourished tooke their name and hard by it Stanlaw as the Monkes of that place interprete it A Stony hill where John Lacy Connestable of Chester founded a little Monastery which afterward by reason of inundations was translated to Whaley in Lancashire In the utmost brinke of this Promontory lieth a small hungry barren and sandy Isle called Il-bre which had sometime a little Cell of Monkes in it More within the Country and Eastward from Wirall you meet with a famous Forest named the Forest of Delamere the Foresters whereof by hereditary succâ—ssion are the Dawns of Vtkimon descended of a worshipfull stocke from Ranulph de Kingleigh unto whom Ranulph the first Earle of Chester gave that Forestership to bee held by right of inheritance In this Forest Aedelfled the famous Mercian Lady built a little City called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is by interpretation Happy Towne which now having quite lost it selfe hath likewise lost that name and is but an heape of rubbish and rammell which they call The Chamber in the Forest. And about a mile or two from hence are to bee seene the ruines of Finborrow another Towne built by the same Lady Aedelfled Through the upper part of this Forest the River Wever runneth which ariseth out of a Poole in the South side of the Shire at Ridly the dwelling house of the worshipâ—ull Family of the Egertons who flowered out of the Barons of Melpas as I have said Neere hereunto is Bunbury contractly so called for Boniface Bury for Saint Boniface was the Patron Saint there where the Egertous built a College for Priests Over against which is Beeston which gave sirname to an ancient family and where upon a steepe rising hill Beeston Castle towereth aloft with a turretted wall of a great circuit This Castle the last Ranulph Earle of Chester built whereof Leland our Countriman being rapt both with a Poeticall and Propheticall fury writeth thus Assyrio rediens victor Ranulphus ab orbe Hoc posuit Castrum terrorem gentibus olim Vicâ—uis patriaeque suae memorabile vallum Nunc licet indignas patiatur fracta ruinas Tempus erit quando rursus caput exeret altum Vatibus antiquis si fas mihi credere vati When Ranulph from Assyria return'd with victory As well the neighbour Nations to curbe and terrifie As for to sense his owne Country this famous Fort he rais'd Whilom a stately things but now the pride thereof is raz'd And yet though at this present time it be in meane estate With crackes and breaches much defac'd and fouly ruinate The day will come when it againe the head aloft shall heave If ancient Prophets I my selfe a Prophet may beleeve But to returne to the River Wever first holdeth his course Southward not farre from Woodhay where dwelt a long time that family of the Wilburhams knights in great reputation also by Bulkeley and Cholmondley which imparted their names to worshipfull houses of knights degree not farre off on the one hand from Baddeley the habitation in times past of the ancient Family de Praerijs of the other from Cumbermer in which William Malbedeng founded a little religious house Where this River commeth to the South limit of this Shire it passeth through low places wherein as also elsâ—where the people finde oftentimes and get out of the ground trees that have lien buried as it is thought there ever since Noahs floud But afterwards watering fruitfull fields he taketh to him out of the East a riveret by which standeth Wibbenbury so called of Wibba King of the Mercians Hard to it lie Hatherton the seat in old time of the Orbetes then of the Corbetts but now of the Smithes Dodinton the possession of the Delvesies Batherton of the Griphins Shavinton of the Wodenoths who by that name may seeme to have descended from the English Saxons beside the places of other famous Families wherewith this County every where aboundeth From thence runneth Wever downe by Nant-wich not farre from Middlewich and so to Northwich These are very famous Salt-wiches five or sixe miles distant asunder where brine or salt water is drawne out of Pittes which they powre not upon wood while it burneth as the ancient Gaules and Germans were wont to doe but boyle over the
Fire to make Salt thereof Neither doubt I that these were knowne unto the Romanes and that form hence was usually paied the Custome for salt called Salarium For there went a notable high way from Middlewich to Northwich raised with gravell to such an height that a man may easily acknowledge that it was a worke of the Romanes seeing that all this Country over gravell is so scarce and from thence at this day it is carryed to private mens uses Matthew Paris writeth that King Henry the Third stopped up these Salt-pits when in hostile manner he wasted this Shire because the Welshmen so tumultuous in those dayes should not have any victuals or provision from thence But when the faire beames of peace beganne once to shine out they were opened againe Nantwich which the River Wever first visiteth is reputed the greatest and fairest built Towne of all this Shire after Chester the Britans call it Hellath wen that is The white Wich or Salt pitte because the whitest salt is there boiled and such as writ in Latine named it Vicus Malbanus haply of one William named Malbedeng and Malbanc unto whom at the Normans Conquest of England it was allotted It hath one onely Salt pitte they call it the Brine pitte about some foureteene foote from the River out of which they convey salt water by troughes of wood into houses adjoyning wherein there stand little barrels pitched fast in the ground which they fill with that water and at the ringing of a bell they beginne to make fire under the leades whereof they have sixe in every house and therein seeth the said water then certaine women they call them Wallers with little wooden rakes fetch up the salt from the bothom and put it in baskets they call them Salt barowes out of which the liquor runneth and the pure salt remaineth The Church and but one they have is passing faire and belonged as I have heard unto to Abbay of Cumbermer from hence Wever holding on his course crooked enough is augmented with a brooke comming out of the East which runneth downe from Crew a place inhabited in old time by a notable family of that name And farther yet from the West side of the River Calveley sheweth it selfe which gave both habitation and name to the worthy Family of the Calveleys out of which in the Raigne of Richard the Second Sir Hugh Calveley Knight was for his Chivalry in France so renowned that there occurred no hardy exploit but his prowesse would goe through it From thence Wever hieth apace by Minshall the house of the Minshuls and by Vale Royall an Abbay founded by King Edward the First in a most pleasant valley where now dwelleth the ancient Familie of the Holcrofts unto Northwich in British called Hellath Du that is The blacke salt pitte where also very neere the brinke of the river Dan there is a most plentifull and deepe Brine-pit with staires made about it by which they that draw water out of it in lether buckets ascend halfe naked into the troughes and powre it thereinto by which it is carried into the which houses about which there stand on every side many stakes and piles of wood Heere Wever receiveth into his Chanell the River Dan whose tract and streame I will now follow This Dan or more truly Daven flowing out of those hilles which on the East side sever Staffordshire from Ches-shire runneth along to CONDATE a towne mentioned by Antonine the Emperour now called corruptly Congleton the middle whereof the little brooke Howty on the East side Daning-schow and Northward Dan it selfe watereth And albeit this Towne for the greatnesse and frequency thereof hath deserved to have a Major and six Aldermen yet hath it but a Chappell and no more and the same made of timber unlesse it bee the quire and a little Towre-steeple which acknowledgeth Astbury about two miles off her mother-Church which verily is a very faire Church the West Porch whereof is equall in height to the very Church as high as it is and hath a spire steeple adjoyning thereto In the Church-yard lie two portraictures of Knights upon Sepulchres in whose Shields are two barres But for that they be without their colours hardly can any man say whether of the Breretons Manwarings or Venables which are the most noble Families in those parts and indeed such Barres doe they beare in their Coates of Armes but in divers colours Then commeth Daven to Davenport commonly Damport which hath adopted into her owne name a notable family and Holmeschappell a Towne well knowne to waifaring men where within the remembrance of our Grandfathers I. Needham built a Bridge Neere unto which at Rudheath there was sometimes a place of refuge and Sanctuary as well for the Inhabitants of this Shire as strangers who had trespassed against the lawes that there they might abide in security for a yeere and a day Then runneth it under Kinderton the old seat of the ancient race of the Venables who ever since the first comming in of the Normans have been of name and reputation here and commonly are called Barons of Kinderton Beneath this Southward the little river Croco runneth also into Dan which flowing out of the Poole called Bagmere passeth by Brereton which as it hath given name to the worshipful ancient and numerous family of the Breretons knights so Sir William Brereton knight hath of late added very much credit and honour to the place by a magnificent and sumptuous house that hee hath there built A wonder it is that I shall tell you and yet no other than I have heard verified upon the credit of many credible persons and commonly beleeved That before any heire of this house of the Breretons dyeth there bee seene in a Poole adjoyning bodies of trees swimming for certaine daies together Like unto that which Leonardus Vairus reporteth from the testimony of Cardinall Granvell namely that neere unto the Abbay of Saint Maurice in Burgundy there is a fish-pond in which are fishes put according to the number of the Monkes of that place And if any one of them happen to bee sicke there is a fish seene also to floate and swimme above the water halfe dead and if the Monke shall dye the said fish a few daies before dieth As touching these matters if they bee true I wrote not what to say for I am no Wisard to interpret such strange wonders But these and such like things are done either by the holy trutelar Angels of men or else by the devils who by Gods permission mightily shew their power in this inferiour world For both the sorts of them being intelligent natures upon a deliberate purpose and to some certaine end and not for nought worke strange things The Angels seeke after and aime at the safety and health of man-kinde the devils contrariwise plot to mischieve vexe or else to delude them But all this may seeme impertinent to our purpose Croke the
Country two Barons of the Exchequer Sergeants at Law a Sheriffe and Attourney an Eschetour c. And the Inhabitants of the said County for the enjoying of their liberties were to pay at the change of every Owner of the said Earledome a summe of money about 3000. markes by the name of a Mize as the County of Flint being a parcell thereof about 2000. markes if I have not bin mis-informed This County containeth about 68. Parishes NOw have I superficially surveyed the Regions of the CORNAVII which together with the CORITANI DOBUNI and CATVELLANI made that Kingdome in the Saxons Heptarchie which they called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Latine Writers Mercia of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 an old English word that signified a Limite for all the other Kingdomes bordered and confined upon it This was the largest Kingdome by farre of all the rest begunne by Crida the Saxon about the yeere of our Lord 586. augmented by Penda who extended the Marches there of every way and within a while after instructed in Christian Religion But having come to the full period within the revolution of 250. yeeres fell at last into the Dominion of the West-Saxons after that the Danes had spoiled weakned and wasted it many yeeres in all manner of barbarous hostility SILURES I Thinke it now my best way before I treat of the other parts of England to digresse a while and turne a little aside toward Wales called in Latin Cambria or Wallia where the ancient Britans have yet their seat and abode neither shall I in so doing as I thinke digresse but directly follow the order of nature For it lieth adjacent to the CORNAVII and seemeth as it were of right and equity to demand that it may be spoken of in due course and place especially seeing the Britans or Welsh the inhabitants thereof enioy the same lawes and rights that we doe and have long since beene engraffed and incorporate with us into our Common-wealth WALES therefore which name comprised in times past before the Conquest the whole Countrey beyond Severn but afterward reached not so farre was when the Romanes ruled in Britaine inhabited by three sorts of people the SILURES DIMETAE and ORDOVICES For these held not onely the twelve Shires as they call them of Wales but those two also beyond Severn Hereford-shire and Monmouth-shire which have beene now long reckoned among the Counties of England And to beginne first with those that we first come unto and which lye next unto us the SILURES according to Ptolomees description inhabited those Regions which in Welsh are called by one name Deheubarth that is the Southpart and at this day by new names Hereford-shire Radnor-shire Brecknock-shire Monmouth-shire and Glamorgan-shire wherein are as yet some remaines also of the name SILURES As for the derivation of that name I have nothing that sorteth with the nature of the Nation But touching the originall of the people Tacitus ghesseth by their coloured faces their countenances their curled haire and their situation over against Spaine that they had their originall from the Spaniards But Florianus del campo a Spaniard flatly affirmeth it who troubleth and toileth himselfe exceedingly to finde the Silures in Spaine and thrusts upon us I know not what of Soloria and Siloria in Biscaie But to speake of the nature of these Silures they were a Nation very great for as wee may gather out of Plinie and Tacitus they seeme to have possessed all South-Wales fierce valiant given to warre impatient of servitude forward to adventure with a resolution the Romanes call it Pervicacia and who would not bee brought in either with faire meanes or soule in all and every of which qualities their Posterity have in no point as yet degenerated from their Ancestours When the Romanes upon an ambitious desire of rule did set upon them they trusting to the strength and prowesse of King Caratacus provoked also and exasperated with a word that Claudius the Emperour let fall who had said These were so to bee destroied and their name to bee extinguished as the Sugambri had beene rooted out aforetime annoied the Romanes with so dangerous a Warre by intercepting their Bands of auxiliary forces by putting to flight that Legion over which Marius Valens was Captaine and by wasting the lands of their Associates that P. Ostorious Propraetor of Britaine being tired with travaile and with the sense of these griefes and troubles gave up his ghost Veranius also Governour under Nero assailed them in vaine For whereas we reade in Tacitus illum modicis excursibus sylvas populatum esse that is That he made spoile and forraied the woods with small outrodes reade in lieu of Sylvas that is woods Siluras that is The Silures as our friend that most learned Lipsius doth and you shall reade aright Yet was not this Warre husht and finished before the time of Vespasian For then Iulius Frontinus subdued them by force and kept them under with Bands of Legionary Souldiers But whereas a Countriman of ours hath wrested this Verse of Iuvenal against Crispine to these SILURES magnâ qui voce solebat Vendere municipes fractâ de merce Siluros who with lowd voice was wont and knew full well Of broken ware his country fish the Sturgions for to sell. As though our Silures being taken prisoners were set to sale at Rome upon my credite he hath not attained to the right and proper sense of the Poet For by that word Siluros he that will reade the place and weigh it well shall easily perceive he spake of fishes and not of men HEREFORD-SHIRE THE County which we call HEREFORD-SHIRE and the Britans name Ereiâ—uc lying in compasse round as it were a Circle is bounded on the East side with Worcester and Glocester-shires on the South with Monmouth-shire on the West side with Radnor and Brecknor-shires and on the North with Shropshire This Country besides that it is right pleasant is for yeelding of Corne and feeding of Cattaile in all places most fruitfull and therewith passing well furnished with all things necessary for mans life In so much as it would scorne to come behinde any one Country throughout all England for fertility of Soile and therefore say that for three W.W.W. wheat wooll and water it yeeldeth to no Shire of England And verily it hath also diverse notable rivers namely Wye-Lug and Munow which after they have watered the most flowring meddowes and fruitfull corne fields at length meet together and in one chanell passe on to the Severn sea Munow springing out of Hatterell hilles which resembling a chaire doe rise aloft and sense this shire on the South-West as it descendeth downe first strugleth to passe through by the foote of the said hilles to BLESTIUM a towne which Antonine the Emperour so placeth that for situation and distance it can bee no other than that which standing by the side of this River is
of Woodstock his Daughter who was after remarried to Sir William Burchier called Earle of Ew And in our memorie King Edward the Sixth Honoured Walter D'Eureux the Lord Ferrars of Chartley descended by the Bourgchiers from the Bohuns with the title of Vicount Hereford whose Grand-sonne Walter Vicount Hereford Queene Elizabeth created afterwards Earle of Essex There are contained in this County Parishes 176. RADNOR Comitatus quem SILVRES Osim Incosuerunt RADNOR-SHIRE VPon Hereford-shire on the North-West joyneth Radnor-shire in the British tongue Sire Maiseveth in forme three square and the farther West it goeth the narrower still it groweth On the South-side the River Wy separateth it from Brecknock-shire and on the North part lieth Montgomery-shire The East and South parts thereof bee more fruitfull than the rest which lying uneven and rough with Mountaines is hardly bettered by painfull Husbandry yet it is stored well enough with Woods watered with running Rivers and in some places with standing Meres The East-side hath to beautifie it besides other Castles of the Lords Marchers now all buried well neere in their owne ruines Castle Paine built and so named of Paine a Norman and Castle Colwen which if I be not deceived was sometime called the Castle of Maud in Colewent For a very famous Castle that was and Robert de Todeney a great Noble man in the reigne of Edward the Second was Lord of it It is verily thought that it belonged aforetime to the Breoses Lords of Brechnoc and to have taken the name from Maude of Saint Valeric a very shrewd stout and malapert stomackfull woman wife to William Breos who discovered a rebellious minde against King John Which Castle being cast downe by the Welsh King Henry the Third in the yeere 1231. reedified strongly with stone and called it in despight of Lhewellin Prince of Wales Maugre Lhewellin But of especiall name is Radnor the principall Towne of the whole Shire in British Maiseveth faire built as the maner of that Country is with thatched houses In times past it was firmely fensed with a Wall and Castle but after that Owen Glendower dwy that notable Rebell had burnt it it began by little and little to decrease and grow to decay tasting of the same fortune that the mother thereof did before I meane Old Radnor called in British Maiseveth hean and for the high situation Pencrag which in the reigne of King John Rhese Ap Gruffin had set on fire If I should say that this Maiseveth or Radnor was that ancient Citie MAGI which Antonine the Emperour seemeth to call MAGNOS where as we finde in the booke of Notices the Commander of the Pacensian Regiment lay in garrison under the Lieutenant or Lord Generall of Britaine in the reigne of Theodosius the younger in mine owne opinion surely and perhaps in other mens conceit also I should not vary from the truth For we reade in Writers of the middle age of inhabitants of this coast called MAGESETAE also of Earles Masegetenses and Magesetenses and the distance if it be counted both from Gobannium or Abergevenny and also from Brangonium or Worcester differeth scarce an haire bredth from Antonines computation Scarce three miles Eastward from hence you see Prestaine in British Lhan Andre that is Saint Andrews Church which of a very little village within the memorie of our Grandfathers is by the meanes of Richard Martin Bishop of Saint Davids growne now to be so great a mercate Towne and faire withall that at this day it dammereth and dimmeth the light in some sort of Radnor From whence also scarce foure miles off stands Knighton a Towne able to match with Prestaine called in British as I have heard say Trebuclo in steed of Trefyclaudh of a famous ditch lying under it which Offa King of the Mercians with admirable worke and labour caused to be cast from Dee-Mouth unto Wy-Mouth by this Towne for the space of foureskore and ten miles to separate the Britans from his Englishmen whereupon in British it is called Claudh Offa that is Offaes ditch Concerning which John of Salisbury in his Policraticon writeth thus Harald ordained a law that what Welshmen soever should be found with a weapon on this side the limit which he had set them that is to say Offaes Dike he should have his right hand cut off by the Kings Officers When yee are past this place all the ground that lieth toward the West and South limits being for the most part barren leane and hungry is of the inhabitants called Melienith for that the Mountaines be of a yellowish colour Yet remaine there many footings as it were of Castles to be seene heere and there but especially Kevenles and Timbod which standing upon a sharpe poynted hill Lhewellin Prince of Wales overthrew in the yeere 1260. This Melienith reacheth as farre as to the River Wy which cutteth overthwart the West corner of this shire and being hindered in his streame with stones lying in his way upon a suddaine for want of ground to glide on hath a mighty and violent downefall whereupon the place is tearmed Raihader Gowy that is The fall or Fludgates of Wy And I cannot tell whether thereupon that British word Raihader the English men forged this name first for the whole shire and afterwards for the chiefe Towne By this Floudgate or fall of the water there was a Castle which Rhese Prince of Southwales as we reade repaired under King Richard the First Hard by there is in some sort a vast and wide wildernesse hideous after a sort to behold by reason of the turning and crooked by-waies and craggie Mountaines into which as the safest place of refuge Vortigern that pestilent wretch and bane of his native Country odious both to God and man and whose memory the Britains may wish damned withdrew himselfe when after he had called the Saxons into this Iland and in horrible incest married his owne daughter And heere he fell at length too too late into serious consideration of the greatnesse of his vile and wicked acts But by revenging fire from Heaven the flying dart of God above he was burnt with his Citie Caer Guortigern which he had heere built for his refuge And not farre from hence as if the place had been fatall not onely this Vortigern the last Monarch of British bloud but also Lhewellin the last Prince of Wales of the British race being forelaid was slaine by Adam Francton in the yeere of our Redemption 1282. Of the said Vortigern Ninnius nameth a little Country heere Guortiger-maur neither is that name as yet altogether lost but of the Ciâ—ie there remaineth no memory at all but our of writers Some are of opinion that Guthremion Castle arose out of the ruins and rubbish thereof which in the yeere 1201. the Welsh for malice they bare to Roger Lord Mortimer and in spight of him laid even with the ground Moreover this part of the Country was
in old time called Guarthenion as Ninnius restifieth who wrote that the said wicked Vortigern when he was plainely and sharply reprooved by that godly Saint German did not onely not turne from his lewd and licentious life to the worship and service of God but also let flie slanderous speeches against that most holy man Wherefore Vortimer the sonne of Vortigern as Ninnius saith for the slander which his Father had raised of Saint German decreed that he should have the land as his owne for ever wherein he had suffered so reprochfull an abuse whereupon and to the ened that Saint German might be had in memory it was called Guarthenion which signifieth in English A slander justly retorted The Mortimers descended from the Niece of Gonora Wife of Richard the First Duke of Normandie were the first Normans that having discomfited the English Saxon Edricke Sylvaticus that is The wild wonne a great part of this little Country to themselves And after they had a long time been eminent above all others in these parts at length King Edward the Third about the yeere of Salvation 1328. Created Roger Mortimer Lord of Wigmore Earle of this Welsh limit or according to the common speech Earle of March who soone after was sentenced to death because he had insulted upon the Common-wealth favoured the Scots to the prejudice of England conversed over familiarly with the â—ings mother and contrived the destruction and death of King Edward the Second the Kings Father He by his Wife Joan Jenevell who brought him rich revenewes as well in Ireland as in England had Edmund his Sonne who felt the smart of his Fathers wickednesse and lost both patrimonie and title of Earle Howbeit his Sonne Roger was fully restored recovered the title of Earle of March and was chosen a fellow of the order of the Garter at the first institution thereof This Roger begat of Philip Montacute Edmund Earle of March and he tooke to Wife Philip the only daughter of Leonell Duke of Clarence the third sonne of King Edward the Third whereby came unto him the Earldome of Vlster in Ireland and the Lordship of Clare After he had ended his life in Ireland where he governed with great commendation his sonne Roger succeeded being both Earle of March and Vlster whom King Richard the Second declared heire apparent and his successour to the Crowne as being in right of his Mother the next and undoubted heire But he dying before king Richard left issue Edmund and Anne Edmund in regard of his Royall bloud and right to the Crowne stood greatly suspected to Henrie the Fourth who had usurped the kingdome and by him was first exposed unto dangers in so much as he was taken by Owen Glendour a Rebell and afterward whereas the Percies purposed to advance his right he was conveyed into Ireland kept almost twenty yeeres prisoner in the Castle of Trim suffering all miseries incident to Princes of the bloud while they lie open to every suspition and there through extreame griefe ended his daies leaving his sister Anne his heire She was married to Richard Earle of Cambridge in whose right his heires and posterity were Earles of March and made claime to the kingdome which in the end also they obtained as wee will shew in another place In which respect King Edward the Fourth created his eldest Sonne being Prince of Wales Duke of Cornwall c. Earle of March also for a further augmentation of his Honour As for the title of Rad-nor no man ever bare it to my knowledge In this are Parishes 52. BRECKNOC Comitaus pars Osim SILVRVM BRECHNOCK-SHIRE BEneath Radnor-shire Southward lyeth BRECHNOCK-SHIRE in the British Brechineau so named as the Welshmen relate of a Prince named Brechanius whom they report to have had a great and an holy Offspring to wit twenty foure Daughters all Saints Farre greater this is than Radnor-shire but thicker set with high Hilles yet are the valleies fruitfull every where On the East side it is bounded with Hereford-shire On the South with Monmoâ—th and Glamorgan-shires ond on the West with Caermarden-shire But seeing there is nothing memorable or materiall to the description of this small Province which is not set downe by the curious diligence of Giraldus Cambrensis who was an Archdeacon heereof above foure hundred yeeres since I thinke I may doe well for my selfe to hold my peace a while and to admit him with his stile into the fellowship of this labour Brecknocke saith hee in his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae is a Country having sufficient store of Corne and if there bee any defect thereof it is plentifully supplied out of the fruitefulnesse of England bordering so neere upon it a Country likewise well stored with pastures and Woods with wilde Déere and heards of Cattaile having abundance beside of fresh water fish wherewith Vske on the one side and Wy on the other serveth it For both these Rivers are full of Salmons and Trouts but Wy of the twaine is the better affording the best kinde of them which they call Vmbras Enclosed it is on every side with high hilles unlesse it be on the North part In the West it hath the mountaines of Canterbochan On the South-side likewise the Southern mountaines the chiefe whereof is called Cadier Arthur that is Arthurs chaire of the two toppes of the same for it is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is shaped with two capes resembling the forme of a Chaire And for that the Chaire standeth very high and upon a steepe downefall by a common tearme it was assigned to Arthur the greatest and mightiest King of the Britans In the very pitch and top of this hill there walmeth forth a spring of water And this fountaine in manner of a Well is deepe but foure square having no brooke or Riveret issuing from it yet are there Trouts found therein And therefore having these barres on the South side the aire is the colder defendeth the Country from the excessive heat of the Sunne and by a certaine naturall wholsomnesse of the aire maketh it most temperate But on the East side the mountaines of Talgar and Ewias doe as it were foresense it On the North side as he said it is more open and plaine namely where the River Wy severeth it from Radnor-shire by which stand two Townes well knowne for their antiquity Buelth and Hay Buelth is pleasantly situate with Woods about it fortified also with a Castle but of a later building by the Breoses and Mortimers when as Rhese ap Gruffin had rased the ancient Castle Now the Mercate much resorted unto maketh it more famous thereabout but in times past it seemeth to have beene for the owne worth of great name because Ptolomee observed the position therof according to the Longitude and Latitude who called it BULLEUM Silurum Of this towne the country lying round about it being rough and full of hils is named Buelth wherein when as the Saxons were
worke also a fragment of an Altar with this Inscription engraven in great capitall letters three inches long erected by Haterianus the Lieutenant Generall of Augustus and Propretour of the Province Cilicia The next yeere following hard by was this Table also gotten out of the ground which prooveth that the foresaid Image was the personage of Diana and that her Temple was repaired by Titus Flavius Posthumius Varus an old souldier haply of a Band of the second Legion T. FL. POSTUMIUS VARUS V. C. LEG TEMPL DIANAE RESTITUIT Also a votive Altar out of which GETA the name of Caesar may seeme then to have beene rased what time as he was made away by his brother Antonine Bassianus and proclaimed an Enemy yet so as by the tract of the letters it is in some sort apparent PRO SALUTE AUGG. N. N. SEVERI ET ANTONINI ET GETAE CAES. P. SALTIENUS P. F. MAECIA THALAMUS HADRI PRAEF LEG II. AUG C. VAMPEIANO ET LUCILIAN This most beautifull Altar also though maimed and dismembred was there found which I thinke is thus to be made up Also these fragments 7. VECILIANA VIII 7. VALER MAXSIMI Moreover a little before the comming in of the English Saxons There was a Schoole heere of 200. Philosophers who being skilfull in Astronomy and all other Arts diligently observed the course and motion of the Starres as wrote Alexander Elsebiensis a rare Author and hard to be found out of whom Thomas James of Oxford a learned man and a true lover of Bookes who wholly addicted to learning and now laboriously searching the Libraries of England to the publique good purposeth that God blesse his labour which will be to the great benefit of all Students hath copied out very many notes for me In the Raigne of Henry the Second what time Giraldus wrote it seemeth that this City was of good strength For Yrwith of Caer Leon a courageous and hardy Britan defended it a great while against the English untill he was vanquished by the King and so disseized of the possession thereof But now that it may serve for an ensample that as well Cities have fatall periods of their flourishing state as men of their lives it is decaied and become a very small Towne which in times past was of that greatnesse and reaching out so farre in length on both sides of the River that Saint Julians an house of the late Sir William Herbert Knight was by report sometime within the very City where Saint Julius the Martyrs Church stood which now is much about a mile out of the Towne Also out of the ruines thereof a little beneath at the mouth of Vske grew up Newport which Giraldus nameth in Latine Novus Burgus a Towne of later time built and not unknowne by reason of the Castle and commodiousnesse of the Harbour in which place there was in times past some one of these Roman High wayes or Streets whereof Necham hath made mention in these Verses Intrat auget aquas Sabrini fluminis Osca Praceps testis erit Julia Strata mihi Vske into Severn headlong runnes and makes his streame to swell Witnesse with me is Julia Street that knoweth it full well This Julia Strata was no doubt some Port-high way and if we may be allowed to make a conjecture what great absurdity were it to say that it was cast up and made by Julius Frâ—ntinus the vanquisher of the Silures There creepeth saith Giraldus in the bounds of this New-burgh or Newport a little River named Nant Pencarn which cannot bee waded and passed over but at certaine Fourds not so much for any depth that the water is of as for the hollownesse of the Chanell and the easie mudde in the bottome and it had of old a Fourd named Rydpencarn that is The Fourd under the top of a Rocke Which when Henry the Second King of England chanced at a venture to passe over even then when it was almost growne out of remembrance the Welshmen who were over credulous in beleeving of Prophesies as if now all had beene sure on the Kings side and themselves hopelesse of all helpe were quite out of heart and hope of good successe because Merlin Silvester the British Apollo had prophesied that then the Welshmens power should bee brought under when a stout Prince with a freckled face and such a one was King Henry the Second should passe over that Foord Under the Saxons Heptarchy this Region was subject to the mountaine Welshmen whom the English called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 who notwithstanding as the ancient lawes doe shew were under the command of the West Saxons But at the first comming in of the Normans the Lords Merchers most grievously plagued and annoyed them but especially Hamelin Balun of whom I spake Hugh Lacy Walter and Gilbert both sirnamed of the house of Clare Miles of Glocester Robert Chandos Pain Fitz-Iohn Richard Fitz Punt and Brien of Wallingford unto whom after that the Kings had once given whatsoever they could get and hold in this tract by subduing the Welsh some of these before named by little and little reduced under their subjection the upper part of this Shire which they called Over-went others the lower part which they termed Nether-went And this Shire is not accounted among the Shires of Wales This Shire containeth Parish Churches 127. GLAMORGAN-SHIRE THE last Country of the Silures was that I thinke which wee at this day call GLAMORGAN-SHIRE the Britans Morganuc Glath-Morgan and Glad Vorganuc that is The Region of Morganuc so named as most suppose of one Morgan a Prince as others thinke of Morgan an Abbay But if I derived it from Mor which in the British tongue signifieth The Sea I know not verily whether I should dally with the trueth or no Howbeit I have observed that a Towne in little Britaine standing upon the Sea-coast now called Morlais was of Ptolomee and the ancient Gaules tearmed Vorganium or Morganium for M. and V. consonant are often changed one for another in this tongue and whence I pray you but from the sea And this our Morganuc also lieth upon the sea for stretching out directly more in length than it spreadeth in bredth on the South side it is accoasted with the Severn sea But where it looketh toward the Land it hath on the East side Monmouth-shire on the North Brechnock-shire and on the West Caermarden-shire bordering upon it The North part by reason of the Mountaines is rough and unpleasant which as they bend downe Southward by little and little become more milde and of better soile and at the foote of them there stretcheth forth a Plaine open to the South-Sunne in that position of situation which Cato judged to bee the best and for the which Plinie so highly commendeth Italie For this part of the Country is most pleasant and fruitfull beautified also on every side with a number of Townes Jestine a great Lord in the Raigne of William Rufus
after he had rebelled against Rhese his Prince and not able to make his part good with him very rashly and inconsiderately which hee afterward repented too late sent Enion a Nobleman to whom he had affianced his daughter to procure Robert Fitz Haimon sonne to Haimon Dentatus Lord of Corboil in Normandy to come out of England and aide him against Rhese who forthwith having mustered certaine forces and taking for to associate him in his journey twelve Knights first gave Rhese Battaile and slew him and afterwards being allured with the fertility of the Country whereof before hand he made full account to be Lord turning his power upon Jestine himselfe because hee had not kept touch with Enion nor performed his promise easily thrust him out of his ancient Inheritance and shared the Country among his Companions The hard and barraine hill Country he granted to the said Enion the more fertile parts he divided betweene him and those twelve Knights whom he tearmed Peres on this condition that they should hold them in Fee and vassallage of him as their chiefe Lord to maintaine one another in common with their aides and auxiliary forces to defend every one his owne Ward in his Castle of Caerdiffe and to bee present and assist him in his Courts in the administration of Justice It shall not be amisse to put downe their names out of a little Pamphlet which Sir Edward Stradling or Sir Edward Mounsel both Knights men of ancient descent and most skilfull in Antiquity I wot not whether for it goeth abroad under both their names wrote concerning this matter And these be their names William of London or de Londres Richard Granvil Pain Turbervill Oliver Saint John Robert de Saint Quintin Roger Bekeroul William Easterling for that he was borne in Germanie whose heires are now called Stradlings Gilbert Hamfranvill Richard Siward John Fleming Peter Soore Reinald Sully The River Remnie falling from the Mountaines is the limite on the East side whereby this Country is divided from Monmouth-shire and Remnie in the British tongue signifieth to Divide Not farre from it where the River holdeth on his course through places hardly passable among the hilles in a Marish ground are to bee seene the tottering walles of Caer-philli Castle which hath beene of so huge a bignesse and such a wonderfull peece of worke beside that all men well neere say it was a garison for t of the Romans Neither will I deny it although I cannot as yet perceive by what name they called it and yet it may seeme to have beene re-edified anew considering it hath a Chappell built after the Christians manner as I was enformed by John Sanford a man singular well learned and of exact judgement who diligently tooke view of it In later ages it was the possession of the Clares Earles of Glocester descended from Fitz-Haimon aforesaid neither doe any of our Chronicles make mention thereof before king Edward the Seconds time For then after that the Spensers by underhand practises had set the King Queene and Barons at debate the Barons besieged a long time Hugh Spenser the yonger whom they called Hugolin herein and could not prevaile By this river also but the place is not certainely knowne Faustus a very good sonne as Ninnius writeth of Vortigern so bad a father built a great Place where with other holy men hee prayed daily unto God that himselfe whom his father committing most abominable incest had begotten of his owne daughter might not be punished grievously for his fathers faults also that his father might at length repent heartily and his native Country be eased from the bloudy warres of the Saxons A little beneath hath Ptolomee placed the mouth of RATOSTABIUS or RATOSTABIUS using a maimed word in stead of Traith Taff that is The sandy Trith of the River Taff. For there the said River Taff sliding downe from the Hilles runneth toward the Sea by Landaff that is The Church by Taff a small City and of small reputation situate somewhat low yet a Bishops See having within the Dioecesse 154. Parishes and adorned with a Cathedrall Church consecrated to Saint Telean Bishop of the same which Church German and Lupus French Bishops then erected when as they had suppressed the Heresie of Pelagius that was dangerously spread all Britaine over and preferred Dubricius a most holy man to bee the first Bishop there unto whom Meurioke a British Lord freely gave all the land that lyeth betweene the Rivers Taff and Elei From hence goeth Taff to Caer diff called of the Britans Caerdid a proper fine Towne as Townes goe in this Country and a very commodious Haven which the foresaid Fitz Haimon fortified with a Wall and Castle that it might bee both a seat for warre and a Court of Justice wherein beside a Band of choise soldiers those twelve Knights were bound to keepe Castle-guard Howbeit a few yeeres after Yuor Bach a British Mountainer a little man of person but of great and resolute courage marching with a Band of men by night without any stirre suddenly surprised tooke Prisoner William Earle of Glocester Fitz Haimons daughters sonne together with his wife and young sonne and detained them in hold with him untill he had made him full satisfaction for all wrongs and losses But how Robert Curthose William the Conquerours eldest sonne a man over venterous and foole hardy in warlique exploits quite put by his hope of the Crowne of England by his younger brethren and bereft of both his eyes lived untill he was an old man in this Castle you may see if you please in our Historians and understand withall that royall Parentage is never assured either of ends or safe security Scarce three miles from the mouth of Taff in the very bending in of the shore there lye aflote as it were two small but pleasant Islands separated one from another and from the maine Land with narrow in-lets of the Sea The hithermore is called Sullie of the Towne right over against it which tooke the name as it is thought of Robert Sully for it fell to his part in the division if you would not rather have him to take his name of it The farther more is named Barry of Baruch an holy man buried there who as he gave name to the place so the place gave the sirname afterwards to the Lords thereof For that noble Family of Vicounts Barries in Ireland had their originall from hence In a Rocke or cliffe heereof by the sea side saith Giraldus there appeareth a very little chincke into which if you lay your eare you shall heare a noise as it were of Smithes at worke one while the blowing of bellowes another while the striking of sledge and hammer sometime the sound of the Grindstone and iron tooles rubbing against it the hissing sparkes also of steele-gads within holes as they are beaten yea and the puffing noise of fire burning in the
certaine dye after it CAERMARDIÌ„ Comitatus in quo DIMETAE Olim habitarunt Those latter words I reade thus Aeternali in domo that is In an eternall house For Sepulchres in that age were tearmed AETERNALES DOMUS that is Eternall habitations Moreover betweene Margan and Kingseage by the high way side there lyeth a stone foure foote long with this Inscription PUNP â—IUS CAR ANTOPIUS Which the Welsh Britans by adding and changing letters thus reade and make this interpretation as the right reverend Bishop of Landaff did write to mee who gave order that the draught of this Inscription should be taken likewise for my sake PIM BIS AN CAR ANTOPIUS that is The five fingers of freinds or neighbours killed us It is verily thought to bee the Sepulchre of Prince Morgan from whom the Country tooke name who was slaine as they would have it eight hundred yeeres before Christs Nativity But Antiquaries know full well that these Characters and formes of letters be of a farre later date After you are past Margan the shore shooteth forth into the North-East by Aber-Avon a small Mercate Towne upon the River Avons mouth whereof it tooke the name to the River Nid or Neath infamous for a quick-sand upon which stands an ancient Towne of the same name which Antonine the Emperour in his Itinerary called NIDUM Which when Fitz-Haimon made himselfe Lord of this Country fell in the partition to Richard Granvills share who having founded an Abbay under the very Townes side and consecrated his owne portion to God and to the Monkes returned againe to his owne ancient and faire inheritance which he had in England Beyond this River Neath whatsoever lieth betweene it and the River Loghor which boundeth this shire in the West wee call Gower the Britans and Ninnius Guhir wherein as he saith the sonnes of Keian the Scot planted themselves and tooke up a large roome untill that by Cuneda a British Lord they were driven out In the Raigne of Henry the First Henry Earle of Warwicke wonne it from the Welsh but by a conveyance and composition passed betweene William Earle of Warwicke and King Henry the Second it came to the Crowne Afterward King Iohn gave it unto William Breos who had taken Arthur Earle of Britaine prisoner to bee held by service of one Knight for all service and his heires successively held it not without troubles unto King Edward the Seconds daies for then William Breos when he had alienated and sold this inheritance to many and in the end by mocking and disappointing all others set Hugh Spenser in possession thereof to curry favour with the King And this was one cause among other things that the Nobles hated the Spensers so deadly and rashly shooke off their Allegeance to the King Howbeit this Gower came to the Mowbraies by an heire of Breos This is now divided into the East part and the West In the East part Swinesey is of great account a Towne so called by the Englishmen of Sea-Swine but the Britans Aber-Taw of the River Taw running by it which the foresaid Henry Earle of Warwicke fortified But there is a Towne farre more ancient than this by the River Loghor which Antonine the Emperour called LEUCARUM and wee by the whole name Loghor Where a little after the death of King Henry the First Howel Ap Meredic invading the Englishmen on a sudden with a power of the mountainers slew divers men of quality and good account Beneath this lyeth West-Gower and by reason of two armes of the Sea winding in on either side one it becommeth a Biland more memorable for the fruitfulnesse than the Townes in it and in times past of great name in regard of Kined canonized a Saint who lived heere a solitary life of whom if you desire to know more reade our Countryman Capgrave who hath set out his miracle with great commendation Since this Country was first conquered by the English The Lords thereof were those that lineally descended from Fitz-Haimon as Earle of Glocester Clares Spensers Beauchamps and one or two Nevils and by a daughter of Nevill who came likewise of the Spensers bloud Richard the Third King of England But when he was slaine king Henry the Seventh entred upon the inheritance of this Country and gave it to his unkle Iaspar Duke of Bedford and when hee dyed without issue the king resumed it unto his owne hands and left it to his sonne king Henry the Eighth whose sonne king Edward the Sixth sold the greatest part thereof to Sir William Herbert whom hee had created Earle of Pembrock and Baron of Cardiff But of the race of those twelve knights there remaine onely in this shire the Stradlings a notable house and of long continuance the Turbervills and some of the Flemings the greatest man of which house dwelleth at Flemingston now corruptly called Flemston as one would say Flemingstone which tooke the name of them And in England there are remaining yet the Lord Saint Iohn of Bletso the Granvills in Devonshire and the Siwards as I am enformed in Somerset-shire The issue male of all the rest is long since extinct and worne out and their lands by daughters passed over to divers houses with sundry alterations Parishes 118. DIMETAE PLinie was of opinion that the SILURES inhabited also the other part beside of this Country which bearing out farther Westward is called in English by some West-Wales and containeth Caermarden-shire Pembrock-shire and Cardigan-shire But Ptolomee who knew Britaine farre better placed heere another people whom he called DIMETAE and DEMETAE Gildas likewise and Ninnius both have used the name of DEMETIA for this Tract Whereupon the Britans that inhabite it changing M. into F. according to the propriety of their tongue commonly call it at this day Difed If it would not be thought strained curiosity I would derive this denomination of the Demetae from Deheu Meath that is A plaine champion toward the South like as the Britans themselves have named all this South-Wales Deheubarth that is The South part yea and those verily who inhabited another champion Country in Britaine were called in old time Meatae Neither I assure you is the site of this Region disagreeing from this signification For when you are come hither once by reason that the high hils gently settle downeward and grow still lower and lower it spreadeth by little and little into a plaine and even champion Country CAERMARDEN-SHIRE CAERMARDEN-SHIRE is plenteous enough in Corne stored abundantly with Cartaile and in some places yeeldeth pit cole for fewell On the East side it is limited with Glamorgan and Brechnock-shires on the West with Pembrock-shire on the North with Cardigan-shire severed from it by the River Tivie running betweene and on the South with the Ocean which with so great a Bay or Creeke getteth within the Land that this Countrey seemeth as it were for very feare to have shrunke backe and
withdrawne it selfe more inwardly Upon this Bay Kidwelly first offereth it selfe to our sight the Territory whereof Kâ—tani the Scot his sonnes held for a time untill they were driven out by Cuneda the Britan. But now it is counted part of the inheritance of the Dutchy of Lancaster by the heires of Maurice of London or De Londres who making an outroad hither out of Glamorgan-shire after a dangerous war made himselfe Lord heereof and fortified old Kidwelly with a wall and Castle to it which now for very age is growne to decay and standeth as it were forlet and forlorne For the Inhabitants having passed over the little River Vendraeth Vehan built a new Kidwelly entised thither by the commodity of the haven which notwithstanding at this day being choked with shelves and barres is at this present of no great use Whiles Maurice of London invaded these parts Guenliana the wife of Prince Gruffin a stout and resolute woman in the highest degree to recover the losses and declining state of her husband came with displaied banner into the field and fiercely assailed him but the successe not answerable to her courage shee with her sonne Morgan and other men of especiall note as Girald recordeth was slaine in battaile By Hawis or Avis the daughter and heire of Sir Thomas of London this passing faire and large patrimony together with the Title of Lord of Ogmor and Kidwelly came unto Patricke-Chaworth and by his sonne Patrickes daughter unto Henry Earle of Lancaster Now the heires of the said Maurice of London as we learne out of an old Inquisition for this inheritance were bound to this service that if their Soveraigne Lord the King or his chiefe Justice came into the parts about Kidwelly with an Army they should conduct the foresaid Army with their banners and their people through the middest of Nethland as farre as to Loghar A few miles beneath Kidwelly the River Tovie which Ptolomee calleth TOBIUS falleth into the the Sea after he hath passed through this Region from North-East to South first by Lanandiffry so called as men thinke of Rivers meeting together which Hoel the sonne of Rhese overthrew for malice that hee bare unto the English then by Dinevor a princely Castle standing aloft upon the top of an hill and belonging unto the Princes of South Wales whiles they flourished and last of all by Caer Marden which the Britans themselves call Caer-Firdhin Ptolomee MARIDUNUM Antonine MURIDUNUM who endeth his Journeies there and through negligence of the transcribers is in this place not well used For they have confounded the Journeies from Galena to Isca and from Maridunum to Viriconium This is the chiefe City of the country for medowes and woods pleasant and in regard of antiquity to be respected Compassed about very properly as Giraldus saith with bricke walles which are partly yet standing upon the famous river Tovit able to beare small ships although there be now a barre of sand cast up against the very mouth thereof In this City was borne the Tages of the Britans I meane Merlin For like as Tages being the sonne of an evill Angell taught his Countrimen the Tuscans the art of Sooth saying so this Merlin the sonne of an Incubus Spirit devised for our Britans prophesies nay rather meere phantasticall dreames Whereby in this Island he hath been accounted among the credulous and unskilfull people a most renowned Prophet Straight after the Normans entring into Wales this City was reduced but I wot not by whose conduct under their subjection and for a long time sore afflicted with many calamities and distresses being oftentimes assaulted once or twice set on fire first by Gruffin ap Rise then by Rise the said Gruffins brother at which time Henry Turbervill an Englishman succoured the Castle and hewed downe the Bridge But afterwards by the meanes of Gilbert de Clare who fortified both the walles thereof and the Castles adjoyning it was freed from these miseries and being once eased of all grievances and in security endured afterwards more easily from time to time the tempests of warre and all assaults And the Princes of Wales of the English bloud I meane the first begotten sonnes of the Kings of England ordained heere their Chauncery and Exchequer for all South Wales Neere unto this City on the East side lyeth Cantred-Bichan that is The lesse Hundred for the Britans terme a portion of land that containeth 100. Villages a Cantred in which beside the ruines of Careg Castle situate upon a Rocke rising on every side steepe and upright there are many under-mines or caves of very great widenesse within the ground now covered all over with green-sord and turfe wherein it is thought the multitude unable to beare armes hid themselves during the heate of warre there is also heere a Fountaine that as Giraldus writeth Twice in foure and twenty houres ebbing and twice flowing resembleth the unstable motions of the maine Sea But on the North-East side there stretcheth it selfe a great way out Cantredmaur that is The great hundred a most safe refuge for the Britans in times past as being thicke set with woods combersome to travaile in by reason the waies are intricate by the windings in and out of the hils Southward stand Talcharn and Lhan-Stephan Castles upon rockes of the Sea which are most notable witnesses of martiall valour and prowesse as well in the English as in the Welsh Beneath Talcharn Taff sheddeth it selfe into the Sea by the side whereof was in times past that famous Twy Gwin ar Taff that is The white house upon the River Taff because it was built of white Hazels for a summer house where in the yeere of our Redemption 914. Hoel sirnamed Dha that is Good Prince of Wales in a frequent Assembly of his States for there met there beside others of the Clergie one hundred and forty abrogated the ancient ordinances and established new lawes for his Subjects as the Prooeme to the very lawes themselves doe witnesse In which place afterward a little Abbay named White land was built Not farre from whence is Killmayn Lhoyd where of late daies certaine country people hapned upon an earthen Vessell in which was hourded a mighty deale of Romane Coine of embased silver from the time of Commodus the Romane Emperour who first embased silver unto the fifth Tribuneship of Gordian the third which fell just with the yeere of Christ 243. Among these were certaine peeces of Helvius Pertinax of Marcus Opellius of Antoninus Diadumenianus of Julius Verus Maximus the sonne of Maximinus of Calius Balbivus of Clodius Pupienus of Aquilia Severa the wife of Elagabalus and of Sall. Barbia Orbiana which among Antiquaries are of greatest price and estimation as being most rare of all others Now it remaineth that I should relate how upon the river Tivy that separateth this County from Cardigan-shire there standeth New-Castle for so they call
it at this day which Sir Rhise ap Thomas that warlike Knight who assisted Henry the Seventh when he gat the Crowne and was by him right worthily admitted unto the Society of the Knights of the Garter renewed whereas before time it was named Elmelin Which name if the Englishmen gave unto it of Elme-trees their conjecture is not to bee rejected who will have it to bee that LOVENTIUM of the DIMETAE whereof Ptolomee maketh mention For the Britans call Elmes Llwiffen But seeing I can finde by no record in Histories which if the Normans first wrested this Country out of the hands of the Princes of Wales I am to proceed now orderly to the description of Pembroch-shire It hath Parishes 87. PENBROK Comitatus olim Pars DEMETARVM PENBROKE-SHIRE THE Sea now retyring Southward and with a mighty compasse and sundry Bayes incurving the shores presseth on every side upon the County of PENBROKE commonly called PENBROKE-SHIRE which in the old Bookes is named The lawfull County of Pembroch and of some West-Wales unlesse it be in the East side where Caermarden-shire and on the North where a part of Cardigan-shire boundeth upon it A Country plentifull in Corne stored with Cattaile and full of marle and such kinde of fatty earth to make the ground fertile and not destitute of pit cole This Land as saith Giraldus is apt to beare Wheat plentifully served with sea-fish and saleable wine and that which is farre above the rest by reason that Ireland confineth so neere upon it of a very temperate and wholsome aire First and formost upon the shore descending Southward Tenby a proper fine Towne well governed by a Major and strongly walled toward the Land looketh downe into the sea from a dry cliffe very famous because it is a commodious road for ships and for abundance also of fish there taken whereupon in the British tongue it is called Tenby-y-Piscoid and hath for Magistrates a Major and a Bailiffe From thence the shore giving backe Westward sheweth the Reliques of Manober Castle which Giraldus calleth The Mansion of Pyrhus in whose time as himselfe writeth It was notably fortified with Towres and Bulwarkes having on the West side a large Haven and on the North-West and North under the very walles an excellent fish-poole goodly to behold as well for the beauty thereof as the depth of the water From hence runneth the shore along not many miles continuate but at length the land shrinketh backe on both sides giving place unto the sea which encroching upon it a great way maketh the Haven which the Englishmen call Milford Haven than which there is not another in all Europe more noble or safer such variety it hath of nouked Bayes and so many coves and creekes for harbour of ships wherewith the bankes are on every side indented and that I may use the Poets words Hic exarmatum terris cingentibus aequor Clauditur placidam discit servare quietem The Sea disarmed heere of windes within high banke and hill Enclosed is and learnes thereby to be both calme and still For to make use of the Mariners words and their distinct termes there are reckoned within it 16. Creekes 5. Baies and 13. Rodes knowne every one by their severall names Neither is this Haven famous for the secure safenesse thereof more than for the arrivall therein of King Henry the Seuenth a Prince of most happy memory who from hence gave forth unto England then hopelesse the first signall to hope well and raise it selfe up when as now it had long languished in civill miseries and domesticall calamities within it selfe Upon the innermore and East Creeke of this Haven in the most pleasant Country of all Wales standeth Penbroke the Shire-towne one direct street upon a long narrow point all rocke and a forked arme of Milford Haven ebbing and flowing close to the Towne walles on both sides It hath a Castle but now ruinate and two Parish Churches within the wals and is incorporate of a Major Bailiffes and Burgesses But heare Giraldus who thus describeth it A tongue of the sea shooting forth of Milford Haven in the forked end encloseth the principall towne of the whole Country and chiefe place of Dimetia seated upon the ridge of a certaine craggy and long shaped Rocke And therefore the Britans called it Penbro which signifieth as much as a head of the Sea and wee in our tongue Penbroke Arnulph of Montgomery brother to Robert Earle of Shrewsbury first in the time of King Henry the First fortified this place with a Castle a very weake and slender thing God wote of stakes and turfes which afterwards he returning into England delivered unto Girald of Windsor his Constable and Captaine to bee kept with a Garison of few Souldiers and immediately the Welshmen of all South Wales laid siege unto the said Castle But such resistance made Girald and his company more upon a resolute courage than with any forcible strength that they missed of their purpose and dislodged Afterwards the said Girald fortified both Towne and Castle from whence hee invaded the Country round about it farre and neere and at length that as well his owne estate as theirs that were his followers and dependants might the better grow to greatnesse in these parts he tooke to wife Nesta sister to Gruffin the Prince of whom he begat a goodly faire Progeny by the which as saith that Giraldus who descended from him The Englishmen both kept still the Sea Coasts of South Wales and wonne also the walles of Ireland For all those noble families of Giralds or Giraldines in Ireland whom they call Fitz Girald fetch their descent from the said Girald In regard of the tenure of this Castle and Towne of the Castle and Towne likewise of Tinbigh of the Grange of Kings Wood of the Commot of Croytarath and of the Manors of Castle Martin and Tregoire Reinold Grey at the Coronation of King Henry the Fourth made suite to carry the second sword but in vaine For answere was made that those Castles and Possessions were in the Kings hands as Pembroke Towne still is Upon another Creeke also of this haven Carew Castle sheweth it selfe which gave both name and originall to the notable Family de Carew who avouch themselves to have beene called aforetime de Montgomery and have beene perswaded that they are descended from that Arnulph de Montgomery of whom I spake erewhile Into this Haven there discharge themselves with their out-lets joyned almost in one two rivers which the Britans tearme Gledawh that is if you interpret it Swords whereupon themselves use to tearme it Aber du gledhaw that is The out-let of two swords Hard by the more Easterly of them standeth Slebach a Commandery in times past of Saint Johns Knights of Jerusalem which with other lands Wizo and Walter his sonne gave in old time unto that holy Order of Knighthood that they might serve as Gods Knights
to recover the Holy Land That part of this Country which lyeth beyond the Haven and hath onely these two Rivers to water it the Britans doe call Ros making the name answerable to the thing for that it lyeth for the most part all low on a flat and greene plaine This Tract was inhabited by Flemings out of the Low Countries who by the permission of King Henry the First were planted heere when the Ocean by making breaches in the bankes had overwhelmed a great part of the said Low Countries These are distinctly knowne still from the Welsh both by their speech and manners and so neere joyned they are in society of the same language with Englishmen who come nighest of any Nation to the low Dutch Tongue that this their little Country is tearmed by the Britans Little England beyond Wales A Nation this is as saith Giraldus strong and stout and continually enured in warres with the Welsh a Nation most accustomed to seeke gaine by clothing by traffique also and merchandise by sea and land undertaking any paines and perills whatsoever A Nation of very great power and as time and place requireth ready by turnes to take plough in hand and till the ground as ready also to goe into the field and fight it out And that I may adde thus much moreover a Nation most loyally devoted to the Kings of England and as faithfull to Englishmen and which in the time of Giraldus was wonderfull skilfull in Sooth-saying by the Inspection of Beasts inwards whose worke also is heere seene as they are a people passing industrious namely The Flemish High way reaching out a great length The Welshmen have many a time banded all their Forces in one and to recover this country belonging sometimes unto their ancestors have violently set upon these Flemings and overrunne their lands spoiling and wasting where ever they went yet they most courageously have alwayes from time to time defended their estates their name and life Whereupon concerning them and King William Rufus the Historian Malmesbury writeth thus Many a time and often King William Rufus had but small successe against the Welsh men which any man may well mervaile at considering that alwaies otherwise he spread most fortunately in all adventures of Warre But I take it that as the unevennesse of the ground and sharpnesse of the ayre maintained their Rebellion so the same empeached his valour But King Henry who now Reigneth a man of an excellent wit found meanes to frustrate all their devices by placing Flemings in their Country who might be alwaies ready to represse and keepe them in And in the fifth booke King Henry with many a warlike expedition went about to force the Welsh men who ever and anon rose up in Rebellion for to yeeld and submit themselves and resting in the end upon this good and holsome policie for to take downe and abate their swelling pride he brought over thither all the Flemings that dwelt in England For a number of them who in those daies in regard of his Mothâ—rs 〈◊〉 by her Fathers side flocked thither were closely shrowded in England in so much 〈◊〉 they for their multitude seemed burdensome unto the Realme Wherefore he sent them altogether with their substance goods Wives and Children unto Ros a Country in Wales as it were â—â—to a common avoidance thereby both to purge and clense his owne Kingdome and also to quaile and represse the rash boldnesse of his enemies there By the more westward of these two Rivers is Harford West called by the English men in times past Haversord and by the Britans Hulphord a faire Towne and of great resort situate upon an hill side having scarce one even streete but is steepe one way or other which being a Countie by it selfe hath for Magistrates a Major a Sheriffe and two Bailiffs The report goeth that the Earles of Clare fortified it with Rampier and Wall on the North side and we read that Richard Earle of Clare made R. Fitz-Tancred Castellan of this Castle Beyond Ros there shooteth out with a mighty front farre into the West Ocean a great Promontory which Ptolomee called OCTOPITARUM the Britans Pebidiauc and Cantred Devi we Saint Davids land A stony barren and unfruitfull ground as Giraldus saith Neither clad with Woods nor garnished heere and there with Rivers ne yet adorned with Medows lying alwaies open to windes onely and stormes Yet a retyring place for most holy men and a nurserie of them For Calphurnius a Britaine Priest as some I know not how truly have written heere in the vale of Ros begat of his Wife Concha Sister to Saint Martin of Tours Patricke the Apostle of Ireland and Devi a most religious Bishop translated the Archiepiscopall See from Isca Legionum into the most remote and farthest angle heereof even to Menew or Menevia which afterwards the Britans of his name called Twy Dewy that is Devi his house the Saxons Dauy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the English men at this day Saint Davids and was for a long time an Archbishops See But by occasion of a pestilence that contagiously raged in this Country whereby the Pall was translated into little Britaine in France to Dole this Archiepiscopall dignity had an end Yet in the foregoing ages the Welsh men commensed an action heere about against the Archbishop of Canterbury Metropolitane of England and Wales but they were cast in the Law What this Saint Davids was and what maner of thing in times past a man can hardly tell considering it hath beene so often by Pirates rased but now it is a very small and poore Citie and hath nothing at all to make shew of but a faire Church dedicated to Saint Andrew and David which having been many times overthrowne Petre the Bishop in the reigne of King John and his successors erected in that forme which now it sheweth in the vale as they tearme it of Ros under the Towne and hard by it standeth the Bishops Pallace and faire houses of the Chaunter who is next unto the Bishop for there is no Deane heere of the Chauncellor Treasurer and foure Archdeacons who be of the number of the XXII Canons all enclosed round within a strong and seemely wall whereupon they call it the Close This Promontorie thrusteth it selfe so farre Westward that in a cleere Sunshine day a man may from thence see Ireland and from hence is the shortest cut to Ireland and by Plinies measure which he tooke false was from the Silures for he thought that the Silures reached thus farre thirty miles But that this land ran out farther and that the forme of the Promontory hath been changed it may be gathered out of these words of Giraldus What time saith he as King Henry the Second made his abode in Ireland by reason of an extraordinary violence of stormes the sandy shores of this coast were laide bare as farre as to the very hard ground and the face of
Garumna the Armorici their name for that they inhabited upon the Sea-side and the Horesci theirs because their inhabitation was upon the river Eske Neither is the very name of Ordevices quite vanished without any remaines thereof in this Tract For a great part of it which lyeth to the Sea-side is yet by the inhabitants usually called Ardudwy whereof it may seeme the Romanes have made these tearmes Ordovic and Ordevices carrying a softer and gentler sound But the whole Countrey excepting one small Shire is called of the Latine Writers by one name of a later stampe Guinethia and Venedotia and of the Britans Guineth and the same from the Veneti of Armorica as some thinke who as Caesar writeth Were wont very oft to saile unto Britaine But if I might bee allowed to change one onely letter I would suppose that this name was knowne to the Greekes and to Pausanias who in his Arcadica recordeth that Antoninus Pius the Emperour grievously punished the Brigantes for that they had made inrodes into GENOUNIA a Province of the Romans in Britaine Certes if it might bee lawfull to reade Genouthia for Genounia so neere in sound coÌ„meth that word to Guinethia and this Guinethia bordereth so neer to the Brigantes that unlesse Pausanias ment this region let Sibylla her selfe declare where it was and what it should be But these Countries belonged to the old ORDOVICES which are now called in English by new names Montgomery-shire Merioneth-shire Caernarvon-shire Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire MONGOMERY Comitatus qui olim pars ORDOVICVM MONTGOMERY-SHIRE MONTGOMERY-SHIRE in British Sire Tre-Faldwin so called of the principall Towne therein bounded on the South-side with Cardigan and Radnor-shires on the East with Shropp-shire on the North with Denbigh-shire and on the West with Merionith although it hath many an high Hill in it yet by reason of plentifull Valleies it is a good Country as well for Corne as Pasture and in old time a fruitefull breeder of the best kinde of Horses which as Giraldus saith by natures workemanship pourtraying as it were in a picture their noble shapes were very commendable as well for the Majesty of their making and bigge limmes as for their incomparable swiftnesse In the utmost corner of this Shire Westward where it endeth pointwise in manner of a Cone or Pine apple standeth Machleneth haply that which the Romanes called MAGLONA where under the Generall of Britaine in the time of the Emperour Theodosius the younger lay in Garison the Captaine of the Regiment of the Solenses for to represse and keepe under the Mountainers and two miles from hence neere unto Penall there is a place to bee seene named Keven Caer that is The backe or ridge of a Citie where peeces of Romane Coine are other whiles digged up and a circular forme of Walles of no small circuit are apparently seene by the remaines Five miles hence the Hill Plinlimon whereof I spake raiseth it selfe up to a wonderfull height and on that part where it boundeth one side of this shire it powreth forth SABRINA the greatest River in Britaine next to Thamis which the Britans tearme Haffren and Englishmen Severn Whence the name was derived I could never reade For that seemeth to smell of a fable which Geffrey hath devised of the Virgin Sabrina therein drowned and which a late Poet following his steps hath delivered thus in Verse In flumen pracipitatur Abren Nomen Abren fluvio de virgine nomen eidem Nomine corrupto deinde Sabrina datur Into the streame was Abren headlong cast The River then taking that Virgins name Hight Abren and thereof Sabrin at last Which tearme in speech corrupt implies the same This River immediately from his spring head maketh such a number of windings in and out in his course that a man would thinke many times hee returnes againe to his fountaine yet for all that hee runneth forward or rather slowly wandereth through this shire Shropp-shire Worcester-shire and last of all Glocester-shire infusing a certaine vitall moisture into the soile every where as he passeth untill at length hee mildely dischargeth himselfe into the Severn Sea But in this shire it being overshadowed with Woods after much strugling hee getteth out Northward by Lanidlos Trenewith or Newtowne and Caer-fuse which as they say is both ancient and enjoyeth also ancient priviledges and not farre from his East banke leaveth behinde him the Castle and Towne of Montgomery upon the rising of a Rocke having a pleasant Plaine under it The Englishmen named the Castle Montgomery and the Latines Mons Gomericus of Roger de Montgomery Earle of Shrewesbury who winning much land heereabout from the Welsh built it as wee finde in Domesday booke But when his sonne Robert was attainted for Rebellion King Henry the First gave this Castle and the honour of Montgomery to Baldwin Bollers in marriage with Sybill of Falais his Niece According to whose name the Welshmen call the Towne standing a little from the Castle Tre-Faldwin that is Baldwins Towne From this Baldwin descended Vital Engain who claimed this Honour as right Heire in the time of king Henry the Third About which time the said king Henry the Third raised it up againe out of the very ashes For the Welsh had slaine the Garison Souldiers and overthrowne it and so it lay desolate for many yeeres and Florilegus fableth That hee of the situation of the place then first named it Montgomery Certaine it is that the said king then granted by his Patent That the Burrough of Montgomery should be a free Burrough with other Liberties Now the Herberâ—s are heere seated branched out from a brother of Sir William Herbert the first Earle of Penbroke of that name Hard by this Corndon Hill mounteth up to a very great height in the top whereof are placed certaine stones in a round circle like a Coronet whence it taketh that name in memoriall as it should seeme of some victory A little higher Severn glideth downe by Trellin that is The Towne by a Poole whereupon it is called Welch Poole in English It hath a Castle joyning unto it on the South side called Castle Coch of a kinde of reddish stone wherewith it is built which within the compasse of one wall containeth two Castles the one belonged to the Lord of Powis the other to the Baron Dudley Cadugane the sonne of Blethin that renowned Britan of whom I spake whiles he was busie about the building of this Castle was as we finde in the Epitome of Lancarbanensis slaine by his nephew Madock Right over against this Castle on the other side of the River standeth Buttington well knowne by reason of the Danes wintering there out of which Adhered Earle of the Mercians expelled them in the yeere of Christ 894. as Marianus writeth Severn being past these places turneth by little and little Eastward that he may the sooner entertaine the small River Tanet which being once received into his society hee
doth the word import so it hath communicated that name unto the whole Country for heereupon the English men call it Caer-narvon-shire This is encompassed with a very small circuit of walles about it and in manner round but the same exceeding strong and to set it the better out sheweth a passing faire Castle which taketh up the whole West side of it The private buildings for the manner of that Countrey are sightly enough and the inhabitants for their courtesie much commended who thinke it a point of their glorie that King Edward the First founded their Citie that his Sonne King Edward the Second was heere borne and surnamed of Caer-narvon who also was of the English line the first Prince of Wales and also the Princes of Wales had heere their Chauncerie their Exchequer and their Iustice for North-Wales About seven miles hence by the same narrow Sea standeth Bangor or Banchor low seated enclosed on the South side with a Mountaine of great heighth on the North with a little hill so called A choro pulchro that is of a faire quire or as some would have it quasi Locus Chori that is as if it were the place of a quire Which being a Bishops See hath within the Diocese thereof 96. Parishes The Church was consecrated unto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof but that which now standeth is of no especiall faire building for Owen Glendoverdwy that most notorious Rebell who had purposed utterly to destroy all the Cities of Wales set it on fire for that they stood for the King of England and defaced the ancient Church which albeit Henry Deney Bishop of the same repaired about the time of King Henry the Seventh yet it scarcely recovered the former dignity Now the Towne is small but in times past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor and Hugh Earle of Chester fortified it with a Castle whereof I could finde no footings at all though I sought them with all diligent inquiry But that Castle was situate upon the very entry of the said narrow Sea Over the Menay or streight hereby King Edward the First that he might transport his Army into Mona or Anglesey whereof I must treat anon in due order went about with great labour to make a bridge but all in vaine Albeit Suctonius Paulinus conveyed over his Romane Souldiers long before into Mona his Horsemen at a Fourd and the Footemen in little flat botomed boates as we reade in Tacitus From hence the shore raising it selfe with a bending ascent runneth on by Penmaen-maur that is The great stony head a very exceeding high and steepe Rocke which hanging over the Sea when it is floud affourdeth a very narrow path way for passengers having on the one side huge stones over their heads as if they were ready to fall upon them on the other side the raging Ocean lying of a wonderfull steepe depth under it But after a man hath passed over this together with Pen-maen bychan that is the lesser stony head he shall come to an open broad plaine that reacheth as farre as to the River Conwey which limiteth this Shire on the East side This River in Ptolomee after a corrupt manner of writing Greeke is called TOISOVIUS for CONOVIUS It issueth out of a Poole of the same name in the South border of the Shire and being pent in and as it were strangled runneth apace within a very narrow chanell as farre almost as to the mouth thereof breeding certaine Shell-fishes which being conceived of an Heavenly deaw bring forth Pearles and there giveth he name unto the Towne CONOVIUM which Antonine mentioneth And although it now lie all along and that name there be utterly extinct yet by a new name it doth covertly implie the antiquity For a very small and poore village standing among the rubbish thereof is called Caer hean that is the ancient City Out of the spoile and ruines whereof King Edward the First built a new Towne at the very mouth of the River which thereupon they call Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which place Hugh of Chester had before-time fortified But this New Conovium or Aber-Conwey being strongly situated and fensed both with walls and also with a very proper Castle by the Rivers side deserveth the name rather of a prety Citie than of a Towne but that it is not replenished with Inhabitants Opposite unto this Towne and yet on this side of the River which is passed by ferry and not by bridge reacheth out a huge Promontory with a bending elbow as if nature purposed to make there a road and harbour for Ships which is also counted part of this Shire and is named Gogarth wherein stood Diganwy an ancient City just over the River Conwey where it issueth into the Sea which was burnt many yeeres agoe with lightning And I am of opinion that it was the City DICTUM where under the later Emperours the Captaine over the band of the Nervians Dictenses kept their guard And for that afterwards it was called Diganwy who seeth not that the said Canwey came of Conwey and from thence the English name Ganoc For so was that Castle called which afterwards King Henry the Third built in that place to bridle the Welsh Straight after the Normans comming into this Island Gruffin ap Conan governed this Country who being not able to represse the English troupes who swarmed into Wales yeelded otherwhiles unto the tempest and at length when with his integrity and uprightnesse he had regained the favour of King Henry the First he easily also recovered his owne lands of the English and left them to his heires successively untill the time of Lhewelyn ap Gruffith who when he had provoked his owne Brethren with wrongs and the English men with inrodes was brought to this passe that hee held this hilly Country together with the Isle Anglesey of King Edward the First as Tenant in Fee and paid for it yeerely a thousand Markes Which conditions afterward when hee would not stand unto and following rather his owne and his Brothers stubborne wilfulnesse than any good hope to prevaile would needes put all once againe to the hazard of warre he was slaine and so both ended his owne life and withall the British government in Wales It hath in it Parish Churches 68. ANGLESEY Conitatus olim MONA INSULA Druidum sedes Britannice Tir Mon THE ISLE MONA or of ANGLESEY THe County of Caer-Nar-von which I last ranne through tooke name as I said erewhile of the chiefe Towne therein and the said Towne of the Isle Mona which lieth over against it and requireth as it were of right that I should treat of it in his due place which unwillingly heeretofore I confesse I referred to the out Islands whereas by right it is to be placed among the Shires This Isle called of the Romans MONA of the Britans Mon and Tir-Mon that is the
heads are sound and of a firme constitution their eye-sight continuing and never dimme and their age long lasting and very cheerefull The Vale it selfe with his greene meddowes yellow Corne-fields Villages and faire houses standing thicke and many beautifull Churches giveth wonderfull great contentment to such as behold it from above The river Cluid encreased with beckes and brookes resorting unto it from the hils on each side doth from the very spring-head part it in twaine running through the midst of it whence in ancient time it was named Strat Cluid For Marianus maketh mention of a King of the Strat-Clud of the Welsh and at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluid that is The Vale of Cluid wherein as some have recorded certaine Britans which came out of Scotland after they had driven forth the English erected a petty Kingdome On the East banke of Cluid in the South part of the vale standeth Ruthin in Latin writers Ruthunia in British Ruthun the greatest mercat towne in all the Vale full of Inhabitants and well replenished with buildings famous also not long since by reason of a large and very faire Castle able to receive and entertaine a great houshold Which with the Towne Reginald Grey to whom King Edward the First granted it and Roger Grey built having obtained licence of the King the Bishop of Saint Asaph and the Parson of the Church of Lhan-Ruth in whose Parish the place is sited Unto him in recompense for his part of the good service performed against the Welsh King Edward the First had given in manner the whole Vale and it was the seat of his heires men of great honour and at length stiled with the Title of Earle of Kent untill that Richard Grey Earle of Kent and Lord of Ruthin having no issue nor care of his brother Henry passed away for a summe of money this his ancient inheritance unto King Henry the Seventh But of late daies the bounteous magnificence of Queene Elizabeth bestowed it upon Ambrose Dudley Earle of Warwicke together with rich revenewes in the Vale. When you ascend out of the vale Eastward you come to Yale a little hilly country and in comparison of the Regions beneath and round about it passing high so that no river from elsewhere commeth into it and it sendeth forth some from it By reason of this high situation it is bleake as exposed to the windes on all sides Whether it tooke that name of the riveret Alen which rising first in it undermineth the ground and once or twice hideth himselfe I know not The Mountaines are full of Neat sheepe and Goates the vallies in some plenteous enough of Corne especially East on this side of Alen. But the more Westerly part is not so fruitfull and in some places is a very heath and altogether barraine Neither hath it any thing memorable save onely a little Abbay now wholly decaied but standing most richly and pleasantly in a Vale which among the woody hilles cutteth it selfe overthwart in manner of a crosse whereupon it was called in Latine Vallis Crucis that is The Vale of the Crosse and in British Lhane-Gwest From hence more Eastward the Territory called in Welsh Mailor Gymraig that is Welsh Mailor in English Bromfield reacheth as farre as to the river Dee A small Territory but very rich and pleasant plentifull withall of Lead especially neere unto Moinglath a little Towne which tooke the name of Mines Heere is Wrexham to be seene in the Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 much spoken of for a passing faire towre Steeple that the Church hath and the musicall Organs that bee therein And neere unto it is Leonis Castrum happily so called of the twenty Legion denominated Victrix which a little higher on the other banke of Dee lay garrisoned now it goeth commonly under the name of Holt and is thought to have beene re-edified of late by Sir William Stanley and long since by John Earle of Warren who being a Guardian of trust unto Madock a Welsh Lord conveighed falsly from his Ward this Lordship together with Yale unto himselfe But from the Earles of Warren it came unto the Fitz-Alans Earles of Arundell and from them to Sir William Beauchamp Baron of Abergevenney and afterward to Sir William Stanley Chamberlaine to King Henry the Seventh who contesting with his Soveraigne about his good services when hee was honourably recompensed lost his head forgetting that Soveraignes must not bee beholding to Subjects howsoever Subjects fancy their owne good services Beneath Bromfield Southward lyeth Chirke in Welsh Gwain being also very hilly but well knowne in elder ages for two Castles Chirke which gave it the name built by Roger Mortimer and Castle Dinas Bran situate in the hanging of a mighty high hill pointed in the top where of note there remaineth nothing but the very ruines The common sort affirme that Brennius the Generall of the Galles both built and so named it others interpret the name to this sense The Castle of the Kings Palace For Bren in British signifieth a King whence perhaps that most puissant King of Gaules and Britans both was by way of excellency called Brennus But others againe draw this name from the high situation upon an hill which the Britans tearme Bren and in mine opinion this their conjecture carryeth with it more probability In the time of King Henry the Third it was the mansion place of Gruffith Ap Madoc who when he tooke part with the English against the Welsh was wont heere to make his abode but after his death Roger Mortimer who had the charge and tuition of his sonne Lhewellin like as Iohn Earle of Warren of whom I spake seized Bromfield so hee seized also this Chirck into his possession When the State of the Welsh by reason of their owne civill dissensions and the invasions of English now ready to ruine could not well subsist the Earles of Chester and of Warren the Mortimers Lacy and the Greies that I spake of first of all the Normans brought this little Country of Denbigh by little and little into their owne hands and left possession thereof to their heires Neither was it made a Shire before King Henry the Eighth his daies at which time Radnor Brechnock and Montgomery by authority of the Parliament were ordained to be Shires In this Shire there be Parishes 57 FLINT Comitatus quem ORDOVICES Olim Incosuerunt FLINT-SHIRE RIGHT over against Denbigh-shire North-East-ward lyeth FLINT-SHIRE a small Territory more in length than in breadth hemmed in on the North side with the Irish Sea or rather with an Arme of the same on the East with Cheshire on other parts with Denbigh-shire It is no mountaine Country to speake of yet rising somewhat with the bearing up of Hilles and gently falleth and sloopeth it selfe downe with fruitfull fields which towards Dee an Arme of the Sea especially every first Yeere that they bee new broken uppe and sowne beare in
with too much affectation derived our Brigantes from Spaine into Ireland and from thence into Britaine grounding upon no other conjecture but that he found the Citie Brigantia in his owne country Spaine he hath I feare me swarved from the truth For in case our Brigantes and those in Ireland had not the same name both for one cause I had rather with my friend the right learned Thomas Savil judge that as well diuers of our Brigantes as also other nations of Britaine from the first comming of the Romanes hither departed into Ireland some for desire of quietnesse and ease others that the Lordly dominion of the Romanes might not be an eye-sore unto them and others againe because they would not by their good will loose that libertie in their old age which by nature they were endowed with in their childhood But that Claudius the Emperour was the first of all the Romanes who set upon these our Brigantes and brought them under the Romane dominion Seneca in his Play sheweth by these verses Ille Britannos Ultra noti littora Ponti caerueleos Scuta Brigantes dare Romulaeis colla catenis Jussit ipsum nova Romanae jura securis Tremere Oceanum The Brigants such as seated are beyond the knowne Sea-coast And Brigants with blew painted shields he forced with his hoast To yeeld their necks in Romane chaines as captive to be led And even the Ocean this new power of Romane-ax to dred And yet I have been of this minde that they were not then conquered but committed themselves rather into the tuition and protection of the Romanes For that which he Poetically endited the Historiographers doe not mention And Tacitus recordeth how by occasion at that time of certaine discords risen among the Brigantes Ostorius who now made preparation for new warres was hindered and pulled backe which he with the execution of a few easily appeased At which time the Brigantes had Cartismandua a right noble and puissant Lady for their Queene who intercepted Caratacus and delivered him into the Romanes hands Herevpon ensued wealth of wealth and prosperitie riotous and incontinent life in so much as forsaking her Husband Venutius his bed she joyned her selfe in marriage with Vellocatus his Esquire and made him King Which foule fact was the overthrow shortly after of her house and thereby a bloudy and mortall warre was enkindled The love and affection of the Country went generally with the lawfull Husband but the Queenes untemperate lust and cruelty were peremptory in maintaining the adulterer She by craftie plots and mischievous meanes intercepteth the Brother and kinsfolke of Venutius Venutius againe for his part pricked forward with shamefull disgrace by the helpe of friends whom he procured and the rebellion withall of the Brigantes themselves brought Cartismandua into great extremities Then upon her instant unto the Romanes for aide Garisons were set Cohorts and wings oâ— foot and horse were sent which after sundry skirmishes with variable event delivered her person out of perill yet so as that the Kingdome remained to Venutius and the warre with the Romanes who were not able to subdue the Brigantes before the time of Vespasian For then Petilius Cerealis having invaded this Country fought many battailes and some of them very bloudy and either conquered or else wasted a great part of the Brigantes Whereas Tacitus writeth that this Queene of the Brigantes delivered Caracus prisoner unto Claudius the Emperor there is in that excellent author a manifest 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the same noted a good while since by Iustus Lipsius deepely insighted in understanding old authors For neither was this Caratacus Prince of the Silures and Ordevices led in pompe at that triumph of Claudius nor yet Caratacus the Sonne of Cunobelinus for so is he called in the Romane Fasti whom Dio nameth Catacratus Of whom Aulus Plautius if not in the very same yeere yet in the next following triumphed by way of Ovation But let others sift out these matters and thereof I have already said somewhat In the Emperour Hadrians time when as Aelius Spartianus saith The Britaines could not be contained under the Romanes dominion it may seeme that these our Brigantes revoited from the Romanes and made a turbulent insurrection For had it not been so there was no cause why Iuvenall who then lived should thus write Dirue Maurorum attegias castra Brigantum Downe with the Moores sheepe cotes and folds Downe with the Brigantes forts and holds Neither afterward in the time of Antoninus Pius was their courage as it may seeme very much abated when he tooke away part of their territories from them because they had made rodes as I have said before into Genunia or Guinethia a Province confederate with the Romanes If I durst by our Critickes good leave who in these daies presuming so much of their great wits are supercriticall me thinks I could heere cleare Tacitus of a fault or two which sitteth close to him as concerning the Brigantes The one is in the twelfth Booke of his Annales where I would reade for Venutius out of the State of the Iugantes out of the State of the Brigantes which Tacitus himselfe seemeth to insinuate in the third Booke of his Histories The other in the life of Agricola The Brigantes saith he under the leading of a Woman burnt the Colonie c. Where truth would have you reade The Trinobantes For he speaketh of Queene Boadicia who had nothing to doe with the Brigantes But the Trinobantes she stirred indeede to rebellion and burnt the Colonie Camalodunum But this Country of theirs so exceeding large which the further it goeth the narrower it waxeth riseth on high in the mids with continued ridges and edges of hils as Italic is raised up with Apenninus which make a partition betweene those Counties into which it is now divided For beneath those hilles toward the East and the German Sea lieth Yorke-shire and the Bishopricke of Duresme and on the West side Lancashire Westmorland and Cumberland all which Countries in the first infancy of the English-Saxons Empire were contained within the Kingdome of the Deiri For they call these Countries the Kingdome of the Nordanhumbers and divided them in two parts Deira called in that age 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is neerer unto us and on this side Tine and Bernicia which lying beyond Tine reached as farre as Edenborrough Frith in Scotland which parts although they had their severall Kings for a long time yet at length grew all to bee one Kingdome And that I may note this one thing by the way whereas in the life of Charles the Great it is read thus Eardulph King of the Nordanhumbers that is De-Irland being driven out of his Country unto Charles the Great c. Wee must reade ioyntly Dierland and understand the place of this Country and not of Ireland as some have misconceived EBORACENSIS Comitatus pars Occidenâ—aâ—is vulgo WEST RIDING YORKE-SHIRE THE
game and hunting of red Deere being divided eft-soone speedeth himselfe on the one hand to Idel a River in Nottingham-shire on the other to Are that hee and they together may fall into Humber In which very place there are environed with these rivers Diche-marcâ— and Marshland little Mersh Countries or River-Islands rather taking up in circuit much about fifteene miles most plentifull of greene grasse passing good for feeding of Cattaile and on every side garnished as it were with prety Townes Yet some of the Inhabitants are of opinion that the land there is hollow and hanging yea and that as the waters rise the same also is heaved up a thing that Pomponius Mela hath written concerning Antrum an Isle in France But among those Beakes and Brookes that convey their streames hither I must not overpasse Went which floweth out of a standing Poole neere unto Nosthill where sometime stood an Abbay consecrated to Oswald both a King and a Saint which A. Confessour to King Henry the First reedified But since the dissolution it hath beene the dwelling house of the Gargraves Knights of especiall good respect Calder springing in the very Confines of Lancashire runneth along certaine Townes of no account among which at Gretland in the top of an Hill whereunto there is no ascent but of one side was digged up this Votive Altar erected as it should seeme to the tutelar God of the whole State of the Brigants which Altar was to bee seene at Bradley in the house of the right worshipfull Sir John Savill Knight Baron of the Exchequer but now among Sir Robert Cottons Antiquities On the other side DUI CI. BRIG ET NUM AUGG. T. AUR. AURELIAN US DD PRO SE ET SUIS S. M. A. G. S. ANTONINO III. ET GET COSS. That is To the God of the whole Communalty and state of the Brigantes and to the sacred Majesty of the Augusti Titus Aurelius Aurelianus hath dedicated for himselfe and his The letters that bee last of all passe my skill altogether When Antonine the third time and Geta were Consuls Now whether that DUI be God whom the Britans now call Diw or a peculiar locall God or Genius of the Brigantes I leave for to be discussed by them that are better learned Like as the soules are divided and distributed among them that are borne saith Symmachus even so are Fatall Genij among Nations And the divine minde allotteth sundry keepers and Guardians to particular Countries For thus they were in old time perswaded in their Divinity and thus they beleeved And to say nothing of forraine Nations whose History is very full of such peculiar and locall Gods the Britans had in that part which now is called ESSEX ANDATES in Cumberland BELLO-TUCADRUS in Northumberland VITERINUS and MOGONTUS as shall appeare more evidently out of those Inscriptions which I will set downe in due place Servius Honoratus likewise hath well and truely observed that these Locall or Topick Gods doe never passe unto other Countries But to returne unto the River Calder which when by the comming in of other waters hee is growne bigge and carryeth a fuller streame hath a faire Bridge over it at Eland neere unto which at Grimscarre were brickes found with this Inscription COH IIII. BRE For the Romanes flourishing in military prowesse in great wisedome and policie exercised both their Legions and Cohorts in time of peace to withstand Idlenesse by casting of ditches making of High-waies baking of brickes building of Bridges c. Calder afterward among the very Hilles leaveth on the left hand Halifax a most famous Towne lying from West to East upon the steepe descent of an Hill And not many ages since tooke it this name whereas before time it was called Horton as some of the Inhabitants doe report who tell this prety story also touching the alteration of the name A certaine Clerke as they call him was farre in love with a maiden who when hee might not have his purpose of her for all the faire meanes and enticements hee could use his love being turned unto rage vilanous Wretch that hee was cut off the Maides head which being hung afterwards upon an Eugh tree the common people counted as an hallowed Relique untill it was rotten yea and they came devoutly to visit it and every one gathered and carryed away with him a branch or sprig of the said tree But after the tree was bare and nothing left but the very stocke such was the credulity of that time it maintained the opinion of reverence and Religion still For the people were perswaded that the little veines that are stretched out and spred betweene the barke and body of the Eugh tree in manner of haires or fine threads were the very haires indeed of the Virgins head Hereupon they that dwelt thereabout repaired on Pilgrimage hither and such resort there was unto it that Horton being but a little Village before grew up to a great Towne and was called by a new name Halig-Fax or Hali-fex that is Holy haire For the Englishmen dwelling beyond Trent called the haire of the head Fax Whence also there is a Family in this Country of Gentlemen named Faire-fax of the faire bush of their haire They therefore which by resemblance of the name gather this to bee Ptolomees Olicana bee farre deceived Now this place is become famous as well among the multitude by reason of a Law there whereby they behead streightwaies whosoever are taken stealing as also amongst the learned for they report that Joannes de Sacro Bosco the Author of the Sphaere was here borne yet more famous it is for the greatnesse of the Parish which reckoneth in it eleven Chappels whereof two be Parish-Chappels and to the number of twelve thousand people therein So that the Inhabitants are wont to give out that this Parish of theirs maintaineth more men and women than other living creatures of what kinde soever Whereas you shall see elsewhere in England in the most fruitfull and fertile places many thousands of Sheepe and very few men as if folke had given place to flockes of Sheepe and heards of Neat or else were devoured of them Moreover the industry of the Inhabitants heere is admirable who in a barraine Soile wherein there is no commodious nay scarce any dwelling and living at all have so come up and flourished by Clothing a trade which they tooke to not above threescore and tenne yeeres agoe at the farthest that they greatly enrich their owne estates and winne the praise from all their neighbours yea and have proved the saying to be true That barraine places give a good edge to industrie and that hence it is that Norinberg in Germanie Venice and Genua in Italie and Limoges in France situate all in barraine places are become right flourishing Cities Sixe miles from hence and not farre from the right side of the River Calder neere unto Almond-bury a little Towne standing upon an
high and steepe Hill which hath no easie passage on even ground unto it but of one side are seene the manifest tokens of a Rampire some ruines of walles and of a Castle which was guarded about with a triple strength of Forts and Bulwarkes Some will have this also to have beene OLICANA But the trueth saith otherwise and namely that it is CAMBODUNUM which Ptolomee calleth amisse CAMULODUNUM and Beda by a word divided CAMPO-DUNUM This is prooved by the distance thereof on the one side from MANCUNIUM on the other from CALCARIA according to which Antonine placeth it Moreover it seemeth to have flourished in very great honour when the English Saxons first beganne to rule For the Kings Towne it was and had in it a Cathedrall Church built by Paulinus the Apostle of these parts and the same dedicated to Saint Alban whence in stead of Albon-bury it is now called Almon-bury But when Ceadwall the Britan and Penda the Mercian made sharpe warre upon Edwin the Prince of these Countries it was set on fire by the enemy as Beda writeth which the very adust and burnt colour as yet remaining upon the stones doth testifie Yet afterwards there was a Castle built in the same place which King Stephen as I have read confirmed unto Henry Lacy. Hard unto it lyeth Whitly the habitation of an ancient and notable Family of Beaumont which notwithstanding is different from that House of the Barons and Vicounts Beau-mont yet it was of great name in this Tract before their comming into England Calder now leaving these places behinde him and having passed by Kirkley an house in times past of religious Nunnes and the Tombe of Robin Hood that right good and honest Robber in which regard he is so much spoken of goeth to Dewsborrough seated under an high Hill Whether it had the name of DVI that tutelar God of the place of whom I wrote a little before I am not able to say Surely the name is not unlike for it soundeth as much as Duis Burgh and flourished at the very first infancy as it were of the Church springing up amongst the Englishmen in this Province for I have heard that there stood a Crosse heere with this Inscription PAULINUS HIC PRAEDICAVIT ET CELEBRAVIT that is PAULINUS HERE PREACHED AND CELEBRATED DIVINE SERVICE And that this Paulinus was the first Archbishop of Yorke about the yeere of our Redemption 626. all Chronicles doe accord From hence Calder running by Thornhill which from Knights of that sirname is descended to the Savills passeth hard by Wakefield a Towne famous for clothing for greatnesse for faire building a well frequented Mercate and a Bridge upon which King Edward the Fourth erected a beautifull Chappell in memoriall of those that lost their lives there in battaile The Possession sometime this was of the Earles of Warren and of Surry as also Sandall Castle adjoyning which John Earle of Warren who was alwaies fleshly lustfull built when he had used the wife of Thomas Earle of Lancaster more familiarly than honesty would require to the end he might deteine and keepe her in it securely from her Husband By this Townes side when the civill warre was hote heere in England and setled in the very bowels thereof Richard Duke of Yorke father to King Edward the Fourth who chose rather to hazard his fortune than to stay the good time thereof was slaine in the field by those that tooke part with the House of Lancaster The Tract lying heere round about for a great way together is called The Seigniory or Lordship of Wakefield and hath alwaies for the Seneschall or Steward one of the better sort of Gentlemen dwelling thereby Which Office the Savills have oftentimes borne who are heere a very great and numerous Family and at this day Sir John Savill Knight beareth it who hath a very sightly faire house not farre off at Howley which maketh a goodly shew Calder is gone scarce five miles farther when he betaketh both his water and his name also to the River Are. Where at their very meeting together standeth betweene them Medley in times past 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 so called for the situation as it were in the middest betweene two Rivers The seat it was in the age aforegoing of Sir Robert Waterton Master of the Horse to King Henry the Fourth but now of Sir John Savill a right worshipfull Knight and a most worthy Baron of the Kings Exchequer whom I acknowledge full gladly in his love and courtesie to have favoured me and out of his learning to have furthered this worke This river Are springing out of the bothom of the hill Pennigent which among the Westerne hils mounteth aloft above the rest doth forthwith so sport himselfe with winding in and out as doubtfull whether hee should returne backe to his spring-head or runne on still to the sea that my selfe in going directly forward on my way was faine to passe over it seven times in an houres riding It is so calme and milde and carryeth so gentle and slow a streame that it seemeth not to runne at all but to stand still whence I suppose it tooke the name For as I have said before Ara in the British tongue betokeneth Milde Still and Slow whereupon that slow River in France Araris hath his name The Country lying about the head of this River is called in our tongue Craven perchance of the British word Crage that is a Stone For the whole Tract there is rough all over and unpleasant to see to with craggy stones hanging rockes and rugged waies in the middest whereof as it were in a lurking hole not farre from Are standeth Skipton and lyeth hidden and enclosed among steepe Hilles in like manner as Latium in Italie which Varro supposeth to have beene so called because it lyeth close under Apennine and the Alpes The Towne for the manner of their building among these Hilles is faire enough and hath a very proper and a strong Castle which Robert de Rumeley built by whose posterity it came by inheritance to the Earles of Aumarle And when their inheritance for default of heires fell by escheat into the Kings hands Robert de Clifford whose heires are now Earles of Cumberland by way of exchange obtained of King Edward the Second both this Castle and also faire lands round about it every way delivering into the Kings hands in lieu of the same the possessions that he had in the Marches of Wales When Are is once past Craven hee spreadeth broader and passeth by more pleasant fields lying on each side of it and Kigheley among them which gave name to the worshipfull Family of Kigheley so sirnamed thereof Of which Family Henry Kigheley obtained of king Edward the First for this Manour of his The Liberty of a Mercate and Faire and free warren So that no man might enter into those lands to bunt and chace in them or
were erected unto them We worship saith he The heads of great Rivers and the sudden breaking forth of an huge River out of an hidden and secret place hath Altars consecrated unto it Againe All waters as Servius Honoratus saith had their severall Nymphs to take the rule and protection of them Moreover in a Wall of the Church is fastened this broken and unperfect Inscription RUM CAES. AUG ANTONINI ET VERI JOVI DILECTI CAECILIUS PRAEF COH But in the very Church it selfe whiles I sought diligently for monuments of Romane Antiquity I found nothing but the Image in stone all armed of Sir Adam Midleton who seemeth to have flourished under King Edward the First and whose posterity remaineth yet in the Country heereby at Stubbam More beneath standeth Otley a Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke but it hath nothing memorable unlesse it bee one high and hard craggy cliffe called Chevin under which it is situate For the ridge of an hill the Britans terme Chevin whence I may conjecture that that continued ridge of mountaines in France where in old time they spake the same language that Britans did was called Gevenna and Gebenna After this Wherf runneth hard by with his bankes on both sides reared up and consisting of that Limestone which maketh grounds fat and fertile where I saw Harewood Castle of good strength which by the alteration of times hath often changed his Lords Long since it belonged to the Curcies but by Alice an inheritrice it came to Warin Fitz-Gerold who had taken her to wife whose daughter Margerie and one of his heires being endowed with a very great estate of living was first married unto Baldwin de Ripariis the Earles sonne of Devon-shire who dyed before his father afterwards to Folque de Brent by the beneficiall favour of King John for his approved service in pilling polling and spoiling most cruelly But when at length Isabell de Ripariis Countesse of Devon-shire departed this life without issue This Castle fell unto Robert de L'isle the sonne of Warin as unto her cozin in bloud and one of her heires in the end by those of Aldborrough it descended to the â—ithers as I am enformed by Francis Thinn who very diligently and judiciously hath a long time hunted after Pedigree antiquities Neither is Gawthorp adjoyning hereby to be concealed in silence when as the ancient Family of Gascoignes descended out of Gascoigne in France as it seemeth hath made it famous both with their vertue and Antiquity From hence runneth Wherf hard by Wetherby a Mercate Towne of good note which hath no antiquity at all to shew but a place only beneath it they call it usually now Saint Helens Fourd where the high Roman street crossed over the river From thence he passeth downe by Tadcaster a very little towne yet I cannot but thinke as well by the distance from other places as by the nature of the soile and by the name that it was CALCARIA For it is about nine Italian miles from Yorke according as Antonine hath set CALCARIA Also the limestone which is the very soader and binder of all morter and hardly elsewhere in this tract to be found heere is digged up in great plenty and vented as farre as to Yorke and the whole Country bordering round about for use in building Considering then that the said Lime was by the Britans and Saxons in old time and is by the Northren Englishmen called after the Roman name Calc For that imperious City Rome imposed not their yoke onely but their language also upon the subdued Nations seeing also that in the Code of Theodosius those bee tearmed Calcarienses who are the burners of limestone it may not seeme absurd if the Etymology of the name be fetched from Calx that is Chalke or Lime even as Chalcis of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is brasse Ammon of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Sand Pteleon of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Elmes and Calcaria a City of Cliveland haply of Calx that is Lime tooke their names especially seeing that Bede calleth it also Calca-cester Where he reporteth that Heina the first woman in this Country that put on the Vaile and religious habite of a Nunne retyred her selfe apart to this City and therein made her abode Moreover an Hill neere to the Towne is called Kelc-bar in which there lieth couched somewhat of the ancient name Neither are there other arguments wanting to prove the antiquity thereof For to say nothing how it is situate upon a port high way there be peeces of the Roman Emperours money oftentimes digged up and the tokens of the Trenches and Bankes that compassed it about the plot also where an old Castle stood yet remaining out of the reliques whereof not many yeeres agoe was a Bridge built which when Wherf is once passed under he becommeth more still and so gently intermingleth his water with Ouse And verily a thing it is in my judgement to be wondered at That Wherf being encreased with so many waters in Summer time runneth so shallow under this Bridge that one comming hither about Midsommer when he saw it pretily and merrily versified thus Nil Tadcaster habet Musis vel carmine dignum Praeter magnificè structum sine flumine pontem Nought hath Tadcaster worth my Muse and that my verse deserv's Unlesse a faire Bridge stately built the which no river serv's But had he come in Winter time he should have seene the Bridge so great as it was scarce able to receive so much water But naturall Philosophers know full well that both Welles and rivers according to the seasons and the heat or cold without or within do decrease or encrease accordingly Whereupon in his returne he finding here durt for dust and full currant water under the Bridge recanted with these verses Quae Tadcaster erat sine flumine pulvere plena Nunc habet immensum fluvium pro pulvere lutum Somewhat higher Nid a muddy river runneth downe well beset with woods on either side out of the bottome of Craven hils first by Niderdale a vale unto which it giveth name and from thence carrieth his streame by Rippley a Mercate Towne where the Inglebeys a Family of great antiquity flourished in good reputation Afterwards with his deepe chanell hee fenseth Gnaresburg commonly called Knarsborow Castle situate upon a most ragged and rough Rocke whence also it hath the name which Serle de Burgh Unkle by the fathers side to Eustace Vescy built as the tradition holdeth Afterward it became the seate of the Estoteviles and now is counted part of the lands belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster Under it there is a well in which the waters spring not up out of the veines of the earth but distill and trickle downe dropping from the rockes hanging over it whence they call it Dropping well into which what wood soever is put
will in short space be covered over with a stony barke and turne into stone as it hath beene often observed In the Territory there by Liquirice groweth in great abundance and a yellower and softer kinde of marle is there found passing good to make the ground fertile The Keeper or chiefe Ranger of the Forest adjoyning was in times past one Gamell whose posterity of their habitation at Screven assumed the name of Screven and from them descended the Slingsbey who received this Forestership of king Edward the First and to this day live here in great and good regard Nid having passed by these places not farre from Allerton the seat of a very ancient and famous family of the Malliveries who in old Deeds and Records are called Mali Leporarij goeth on a little way and then meeting Ouse augmenteth the streame of Ouse by his confluence As for Vre he also springing out of these Westerne hilles but on the other side of the Country in North-Ricding when by this name he hath watered the North part of the Shire a little before he commeth to Rippon serveth for the limite dividing the North and West Ridings one from another This Rippon in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 being placed betweene Vre and Skell a rill is beholden to religious Houses for all the dignity it had and especially to a Monastery built in the primitive Church of the English-Saxons by Wilfride Archbishop of Yorke and that with such arched and embowed Vaults with such floorings and stories of stone-worke with such turnings and windings in and out of Galleries so saith William of Malmesbury that it was wonderfull Which the Danes afterward being so violent and outrageous that they spared neither God nor man raced together with the Towne Yet flourished it againe repaired by meanes of Odo Archbishop of Canterbury who being a very great master of ceremoniall mysteries translated from hence to Canterbury the Reliques of Wilfride But since the Normans arrivall it prospered most when the Castles as one saith of Monkes beganne to bee built in greater number For then both the Towne grew famous partly under the chiefe Magistrate whom they call by an old Saxon word Wakeman as one would say Watchman and partly by their industry in clothing which at this day is much diminished and the Monastery likewise under the tuition and protection of the Archbishops of Yorke beganne marveilously to reflourish Besides a very faire Church was there also built at the charitable charges of the Noblemen and Gentry dwelling thereabout and of their owne Treasurer which with three high Spire-steeples doth welcome those that come to the towne and did as it were emulate in workemanship the wealthy Abbay of Fountaines built within the sight of it by Thurstin Archbishop of Yorke On the one side of this Church wee saw a little College of â—inging men which Henry Bath Archbishop of Yorke erected on the other side a very great mount of earth called Hilshow cast up as they report by the Danes Within the Church Saint Wilfrides Needle was in our Grandfathers remembrance very famous A narrow hole this was in the Crowdes or close vaulted roome under the ground whereby womens honesty was tried For such as were chast did easily passe through but as many as had plaied false were miraculously I know not how held fast and could not creepe through The Abbay Fountaines aforesaid most pleasantly seated in a right plentifull Country and having Lead mines neere it had the originall from twelve precise Monkes of Yorke who fervently zealous to serve God in a more strict kinde of life forsooke their cloistures and addicted themselves to the ordinances of Saint Bernard For whom after they had reaped many Harvests of troubles Thurstine Archbishop of Yorke built this Abbay which was acknowledged an immediate daughter of Clarevalle and in a few yeeres became a mother to many others as Kirkstall Salley Meaux c. I have made more willingly mention of these because Saint Bernard in his Epistles so highly approved their life and discipline Not farre beneath there standeth by Vre a little Towne called Burrow bridge of the bridge that is made over the River which now is built very high and faire of stone worke but in King Edward the Second his time it seemeth to have beene of wood For wee reade that when the Nobles of England disquieted the King and troubled the State Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford in his going over it was at a chinke thereof thrust through the body about his groine by a souldier lying close under the Bridge Neere unto this Bridge Westward we saw in three divers little fields foure huge stones of Pyramidall forme but very rudely wrought set as it were in a streight and direct line The two Pyramides in the middest whereof the one was lately pulled downe by some that hoped though in vaine to finde treasure did almost touch one another the uttermore stand not farre off yet almost in equall distance from these on both sides Of these I have nothing else to say but that I am of opinion with some that they were Monuments of victory erected by the Romanes hard by the High Street that went this way For I willingly overpasse the fables of the common people who call them the Devils Bolts which they shot at ancient Cities and therewith overthrew them Yet will not I passe over this that very many and those learned men thinke they are not made of naturall stone indeed but compounded of pure sand lime vitriol whereof also they say there be certaine small graines within and some unctuous matter Of such a kinde there were in Rome cisternes so firmely compact of very strong lime and sand as Plinie writeth that they seemed to be naturall stones A little Eastward from this Bridge IS-URIUM BRIGANTUM an ancient City so called of the River Vre running by it flourished in ancient times but was rased to the very ground many ages past Neverthelesse the Village risen up neere the place giveth testimony of the Antiquity thereof for it is called Ealdburgh and Aldborrow But in that very plot of ground where the said City stood are now arable grounds and pastures so that scarce any footing thereof doth appeare Surely the very credite of Writers should have had much adoe to make us beleeve that this had beene IS-URIUM but that URE the Rivers name the Romane Coine daily digged up and the distance according to Antonines account betwixt this and Yorke warranted it For by that Vre which the Saxons afterward named Ouse because it hath entertained Ousburne a little River is gone sixteene Italian miles from hence hee runneth through the City EBORACUM or EBURACUM which Ptolomee in the second booke of his Great Construction calleth BRIGANTIUM if the said booke bee not corrupted because it was the chiefe City of the Brigantes Ninnius calleth it Caer Ebrauc the Britans Caer Effroc the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
that Towne where the King used to lye which Bede saith was situate neere unto the River Doroventio In which as hee also writeth Eumer that murderous Villaine thrust at Edwin King of Northumberland with a sword and had runne him through but that one of his men stepped betweene and saved the Kings life with the losse of his owne Yet could I never have said precisely which was the very place had not that most judicious Robert Marshall given me a light thereof For he gave me to understand that just at the very same distance from Yorke which I spake of there stands hard upon the River Darwent a little Towne named Auldby that is if you interprete the Saxon word The old Habitation where are extant yet in sight some tokens of Antiquity and upon a very high Hill neere unto the River the rubbish of an ancient Fortification so that it cannot chuse but to have beene the said City Derventio From hence glideth the River hard under Stanford-Bridge which also of the battaile there fought is called Battlebridge For at that Bridge Harald King of England after a great execution done upon the Danes flew in a pight field Harald Hardread King of Norway who with a Fleet of 200. saile grievously annoyed the Isle of Britaine and was now landed at Richall spoiling and wasting all in his way The King of England who having the honour of the field found among the spoiles such a masse of Gold as that twelve lusty young men had much adoe to carry it on their backes as Adam Bremensis recordeth This field was foughten scarce nine dayes before the arrivall of William Conquerour what time the dissolute and roiotous life of the Englishmen seemed to foretell their imminent overthrow and destruction But of this I have spoken before Derwent which when it is encreased with raine and as it were provoked to anger doth oftentimes contemne his bankes and surround the medowes lying about it passing from hence by Wreshil a proper and a strong Castle which Sir Thomas Percy Earle of Worcester built runneth amaine under Babthorpe which yeeldeth both name and habitation to a worshipfull Family of Knights degree and so at length dischargeth himselfe into Ouse Out of this stocke it was for let us not thinke much to tell of those who performed faithfull service to their Prince and Country that both father and sonne fighting together under the banner of King Henry the Sixth lost their lives in the Battaile of Saint Albans and were there buryed together with this Epitaph Cum patre Radulpho Babthorp jacet ecce Radulphus Filius hoc duro marmore pressus humo Henrici Sexti dapifer pater Armiger ejus Mors satis id docuit fidus uterque fuit c. Behold where two Raulph Babthorps both the sonne and father lye Under a stone of marble hard interr'd in this mould dry To Henry the Sixth the father Squire the Sonne he Sewer was Both true to Prince and for his sake they both their life did passe And now Ouse by this time carrying a fuller streame runneth neere Howden a Mercate Towne famous not so much for any beauty in it or great resort thereto as because it hath given name to a little Territory adjoyning called of it Howdenshire and had therein not long since a prety Collegiat Church of five Prebendaries unto which joyneth the Bishops house of Durrham who have great lands thereabout One of which namely Walter Skirlaw who flourished about the yeere of our Lord 1390. as we reade in the booke of Durrham built a very great and large steeple to this Church that if there happened by chance any inundation it might serve the inhabitants for a place of refuge to save themselves in And not farre from hence stands Metham which gave both sirname and habitation also to the ancient house of the Methams Now the River Ouse being very broad swift and roring besides out powreth his streame into the Frith or salt water ABUS For so calleth Ptolomee that arme of the Sea which the English Saxons and we tearme Humber whereof also the Country beyond it by a generall name was called Northumberland Both these names may seeme to have beene drawne with some little change from the British word Aber which among them signifieth the mouth of a River and I would thinke it was imposed upon this River by way of excellency because Ure or Ouse having entertained and lodged many Rivers carryeth them all with him along into this yea and other Rivers of right great name are emptied into it And verily it is one of the broadest armes of the sea and best stored with fish in all Britaine It riseth high as the Ocean at every tide floweth and when the same ebbeth and returneth backe it carryeth his owne streame and the currant of the Sea together most forcibly and with a mighty noise not without great danger of such as saile therein whence Necham writeth thus of it Fluctibus aequoreis nautis suspectior Humber Dedignans Urbes visere rura colit More fear'd of shipmen Humber streame than waves of sea so deepe Disdaining cities great to see neere country townes doth keepe And following the British History as if it had beene so called of a King of the Hunnes he addeth this moreover Hunnorum princeps ostendens terga Locrino Submersus nomen contulit Humbris aquae A Prince of Hunnes whiles that he shew'd his backe to Locrine brave Was drowned heere and so the name to Humber water gave Touching whom another Poet also Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic Dèque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae Whiles he turn'd backe and tooke his flight the River stopt the same There drown'd was he and then of him the water tooke the name Neither were there indeed any Cities seene to stand by this Arme of the Sea in Nechams daies but before and after there flourished one or two Cities in these places Under the Roman Empire not farre from the banke by Foulnesse a River of small account where Wighton a little Towne of Husbandry well inhabited is now seene stood as we may well thinke in old time DELGOVITIA and that I may not take hold of the distance from DERVENTIO for a proofe both the resemblance and the signification also of the name doe concurre For Delgwe in the British tongue signifieth The Statues or Images of the Heathen Gods and in a small Village adjoyning to this little Towne there was a Temple of Idols even in the Saxons time of exceeding great name and request which of those Heathen gods was then termed Godmundingham and now is called in the same sense Godmanham Neither doubt I but that even when the Britans flourished it was some famous Oracle much frequented when superstition spread and swaying among all Nations had wholly possessed the weake mindes of ignorant people But when Paulinus preached Christ unto Northumberland men Coy-fi who had beene a Pontife or
gold made him Lord chiefe Baron of his Exchequer conferred upon him the whole Seignorie or Lordship of Holdernes together with other lands belonging unto the Crown and that by the Kings Charter yea and ordained that he should be reputed a Baneret Yet if any man make doubt hereof the Recordes I hope may satisfie him fully in which William De la Pole is in plaine tearmes called Dilectus Valectus et Mercator noster that is Our wellbeloved Valect and our Merchant now Valect to tell you once for all was in those daies an honorable title as well in France as in England but afterward applied unto servants and gromes whereupon when the Gentry rejected it by changing the name they began to bee called Gentlemen of the Bedchamber From Hull a Promontorie runneth on forward and shooteth out a farre into the sea which Ptolomee calleth OCELLVM wee Holdernesse and a certaine monke Cavam Deiram as it were the hollow Country of the Deirians in the same signification that Coelosyria is so tearmed as one would say Holow Syria In this Promontory the first towne wee meet with in the winding shore is Headon in times past if wee list to beleeve fame that useth to amplifie the truth and which for my part I will not discredit risen to exceeding great account by the industry of merchants and sea-faring men from which so uncertaine is the condition as well of places as of people it is so much fallen by the vicinity of Hull and the choaking up of the haven which hath empoverished it that it can shew scarce any whit of the ancient state it had Although King Iohn granted unto Baldwin Earle of Aulbemarle and of Holdernesse and to his wife Hawis free Burgage heere so that the Burgers might hold in free Burgage with those customes that Yorke and Nichol that is Lincolne Yet now it beginneth by little and little to revive againe in hope to recover the former dignity There standeth hard by the Pomontorie an ancient towne which Antonine the Emperour called PRAETORIVM but we in our age Patrington like as the Italians have changed the name of a towne sometime called Praetorium into Petrovina That I doe not mistake herein both the distance from DELGOVITIA and the very name yet remaining doth prove which also in some sort implieth that this is the very same that in Ptolomees copies is written PETVARIA corruptly for Praetorium But whether this name were given it either from Praetorium that is the hall of Justice or from some large and stately house such as the Romans tearmed Praetoria it doth not appeare for certaine The inhabitants glorie much yet as touching their Antiquity and the commodiousnesse of the haven in ancient times and they may as well glorie for the pleasantnesse thereof For it hath a most delectable prospect on the one side lieth the maine sea brimme upon it on the other Humber a famous arme of the sea and over against it the fresh and greene skirtes of Lincoln-shire The high way of the Romans from the Picts wall which Antonine the Emperor followed here endeth For Ulpian hath written that such high waies commonly end at the sea at rivers or at Cities Somewhat lower standeth Winsted the habitation of the Hildeards knights of ancient descent and higher into the Country Rosse from whence the honorable family of the Barons Rosse tooke their name like as they were seated there in times past and hard by the sea-side Grimstons-garth where the Grimstons for a long time have lived in good reputation and a little from hence standeth Rise the mansion house in old time of certaine noble men bearing the name of Falconberg And then in the very necke of the promontorie where it draweth in most narrow into a sharpe point and is called Spurnhead is KELNSEY a little village which plainely sheweth that this is the very OCELLVM mentioned by Ptolomee for as from OCELLVM Kelnsey is derived so Ocellum doubtlesse was made of Y-kill which as I have said before signifieth in the British tongue a Promontory or narrow necke of land From Spurn-head the shore withdraweth it selfe backe by little and little and gently bending inward shooteth Northward by Overthorne and Witherensey two little Churches called of the sisters that built them Sisters kirks and not farre from Constable-Burton so called of the Lords thereof who being by marriages linked to right honorable houses flourish at this day in great worship and out of which familie Robert as wee read in the booke of the Abbay of Meaux was one of the Earle of Aulbemarls knights who being aged and full of daies took upon him the Crosse and went with King Richard in his voiage toward the holy land Then by Skipsey which Dru the first Lord of Holdernesse fortified with a Castle When the shore beginneth to spread againe and beare out into the sea it maketh roome for a bay or creeke that Ptolomee calleth EYAIMENON GABRANTO VICORUM which the Latin Interpreters have translated some PORTUOSVM SINVM that is the barborous Creeke others SALVTAREM that is the safe Creeke But neither of them both better expresseth the nature of the Greeke word than the very name of a little village in the nouke thereof which wee call Sureby For that which is safe and sure from danger the Britans and French men both terme Seur as wee Englishmen sure who peradventure did borrow this word from the Britans There is no cause therefore why we should doubt but that this creeke was that very EYAIMENON of the GABRANTOVICI who dwelt there abouts Hard by standeth Bridlington a towne very well knowne by reason of Iohn of Bridlington a poeticall monkish prophet whose ridiculous prophesies in Rhime I have read albeit they were not worth the reading And not farre from hence for a great length toward Driffield was there a ditch cast up and brought on by the Earles of Holdernesse to confine and bound their lands which they called Earles Dyke But whence this little nation here inhabiting were named GABRANTOVICI I dare not search unlesse happily it were of goates which the Britans tearme Gaffran and whereof there is not greater store in al Britain than hereabout Neither ought this derivation of the name to seeme absurd seeing that Aegira in Achaia borroweth the name of goats Nebrodes in Sicily of fallow Deere and Boeotia in Greece of Kine and Oxen. That little Promontory which with his bent made this creeke is commonly called Flamborough head and in the Saxon tongue Fleam 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Authors who write that Ida the Saxon who first subdued these Countries arrived here Some think it took the name from a watchtowre which did by night put forth a flame or burning light for to direct sailers into the haven For the Britans retaine yet out of the provinciall language this word Flam and Mariners paint this creeke in their sea-cards with a blazing flame on the
change of one letter termed it Moult-grave by which name although the reason thereof be not so well knowne the world takes knowledge of it This Peter de Mololacu commonly called Mauley that I may in this point satisfie the curious borne in Poictou in France marryed the onely daughter of Robert de Turnham in the Raigne of King Richard the First in whose right he entred upon a very great inheritance heere after whom succeeded in order seven Peters called Lords Mauley who give for their Armes A Bend Sables in an Eschocheon Or. But when the seventh dyed issuelesse this the Manours of Dancaster Bainton Bridesalle c. were parted by the sisters betweene the families of the Salvains and Bigots Neere unto this place as elsewhere in this shore is found blacke Amber or Geate Some take it to be Gagates which in old time they held to be one of the rare gems and precious stones It groweth among the cliffes and rockes where they chinke and gape asunder Before it be polished it is of a reddish and rusty colour but after it bee once polished it becommeth as saith Solinus as a Gemme of a bright radiant blacke colour Touching which Rhemnius Palamon out of Dionysius Afer thus versifieth Praefulget nigro splendore Gagates Hic lapis ardescens austro perfusâ—s aquarum Ast oleo perdens flammas mirabile visu Attritus rapit hic teneras seu succina frâ—ndes The Geat is blacke and shineth passing bright Which Stone in water dipt and drencht takes fire and burneth light In oile a wonder for to see the flame is quickly done And like to Amber rub it hard small stickes it catcheth soone And Marbodaeus in his little booke of precious stones Nascitur in Lycia lapis prope gemma Gagates Sed genus eximium foecunda Britannia mittit Lucidus niger est levis lavissimuâ— idem Vicinas paleas trabit attritu calefactus Ardet aqua lotus restinguitur unctus olivo Geat is a Stone and Gemme well nere that men in Lycia finde But fruitfull Britan yeelds the best simply of all that kinde Of colour blacke yet bright it is most smoothe and light withall Well rubbed and enchaul'd thereby thin strawes and fescues small That are neere hand it drawes thereto it burnes in water drencht Annoint the same with fatty oile the flame streigthwaies is quencht Heare also what Solinus saith In Britaine there is great store of Gagates or Geat and an excellent stone it is If you demand the colour it is a bright radiant blacke if the quality it is in manner nothing weighty If the nature it burneth in water and is quenched with oile if the vertue being made hote with rubbing it holdeth such things as are applied thereto From Whitby the shore gives backe Westward by which lyeth Cliveland taking that name as it seemeth of steepe bankes which in our language wee call Cliffes for there runne all along the side thereof cliffie hilles at the foote of which the country spreadeth into a Plaine full of fertile fields Upon the shore Sken grave a little Village is much benefited by taking great store of fish where also by report was caught a Sea-man about 70. yeeres since that for certaine daies together fed of raw fishes but espying his opportunity escaped away unto his proper element againe Whensoever the windes are laied and that upon still weather the sea is most calme and the water lieth as one would say levell and plaine without any noise there is heard heere many times on a sudden a great way off as it were an horrible and a fearefull groning at which time the fishermen dare not launch out farre into the deepe as beleeving according to their shallow reach that the Ocean is a fell and cruell beast and being then very hungry desireth greedily in that sort to devoure mens bodies Beneath Sken-grave is situate Kilton Castle within a Parke which belonged sometime to the habitation of the Thwengs whose patrimony descended to the Barons of Lumley Hilton and Daubeneie And there joyneth almost close unto it Skelton Castle appertaining to the ancient family of the Barons Brus who derive their descent from Robert Brus the Norman The said Robert had two sonnes Adam Lord of Skelton and Robert of Anan-dale in Scotland from whom is descended the royall stem of Scotland But Peter Brus the fifth Lord of Skelton died without issue and left his sisters to inherite namely Agnes wife to Walter Falconberg Lucie wedded to Marmaduke Thweng of whom is come the Baron Lumley Margaret married to Robert Ros and Laderina to John Belle-eau men in that age of honourable reputation The heires successively of Walter Falconberg flourished a long time but in the end by a female the possessions came to Sir William Nevill who was a redoubted Knight for martiall prowesse and by King Edward the Fourth advanced to the title of Earle of Kent And his daughters were bestowed in marriage upon Sir John Cogniers N. Bedhowing and R. Strangwaies Neere unto Hunt-cliffe and not farre from the shore there appeare aloft at a vale water certaine Rockes about which the fishes that wee call Seales short as some thinke for Sea-veales meete together in droves to sleepe and sunne themselves and upon that rocke which is next unto the shore there lieth one as it were to keepe the Centinell and as any man approcheth neere he either by throwing downe a big stone or by tumbling himselfe into the water with a great noise giveth a signall to the rest to looke unto themselves and get into the water Most affraid they bee of men against whom when they chase them they being destitute of water fling backeward with their hinder feete a cloud as it were of sand and gravell stones yea and often times drive them away For women they care not so much and therefore whosoever would take them use to bee clad in womens apparell In the same coast are found stones some of yellowish others of a reddish colour and some againe with a rough cast crust over them of a certaine salt matter which by their smell and taste make shew of Coperose Nitre and Brimstone and also great store of Marquesites in colour resembling brasse Hard by at Huntly Nabb the shore that lay for a great way in length open riseth now up with craggy rockes at the rootes wherof there lie scattering here and there stones of divers bignesse so artificially by nature shaped round in maner of a Globe that one would take them to be big bullets made by the turners hand for shot to bee discharged out of great ordinance In which if you breake them are found stony serpents enwrapped round like a wreath but most of them are headles Then see you from thence Wilton Castle sometime the Bulmers and above it at Dobham the river Tees voideth into the Sea after it hath lodged sundry rivers and at the last one that is namelesse beside Yare
named Percies From thence Rhie carrieth with him the streames of many a brooke into Derwent which watereth in this vale Malton a Market towne well knowne and frequented for corne horses fish and implements of husbandry where are to be seene the foundations of an old Castle belonging as I have heard say in old time to the Vescies Barons in these parts of great estate and honor Their pedigree as appeareth evidently by the Kings records is derived from William Tyson who being Lord of Malton and of Alnewicke in Northumberland was slain in the battaile at Hastings against the Normans Whose onely daughter was given in marriage to Ivo de Vescy a Norman and hee left behind him his only daughter likewise named Beatrice with whō Eustach the son of Fitz Iohn with one eie contracted marriage who in the raigne of Stephen founded the religious houses at Malton and Watton For his second wife daughter to William Constable of Chester was Ladie of Watton William the sonne of Eustach by Beatrice being ripped out of his mothers wombe assumed unto him the name of Vescy and the Armes a Cross-floury Argent in a shield Gueles This William begat of Beatrice daughter to Robert Estotevill of Knaresburg two sonnes Eustach de Vescy who tooke to wife Margaret daughter to William King of the Scots and Sir Warin de Vescy Lord of Knapton As for Eustach father hee was of William who begat John that died without issue and William so renowned for his exploits in Ireland and these changed the Armes of their house into a shield Or with a crosse Sables But William after that his legitimate sonne John died in the warre of Wales granted unto King Edward certaine lands in Ireland that his illegitimate sonne William surnamed of Kildare might inherit his fathers estate And hee ordained Anthony Bec Bishop of Durrham his feofie in trust to the use of his sonne but he was scarce trusty as touching Alnewic Eltham in Kent and other lands which he is reported to have conveied indirectly to his owne use This illegitimate sonne young Vescy was slaine in the Battaile of Sterling in Scotland And at length the title fell backe unto the line of the Attons considering that Margaret the only daughter of Sir Gwarin Vescy was wedded unto Gilbert de Atton But heereof enough if not too much and of it I have spoken before Neere unto this vale there flourished two famous Abbaies Newborrough unto which we are indebted for William of Newborrough a learned and diligent writer of the English Historie now the habitation of the worshipfull family of Bellasise descended out of the Bishopricke of Durrham and Bellelanda commonly Biland both founded and endowed by Robert Mowbray This family of the Mowbraies was for power nobility and wealth comparable to any other and possessed very faire lands with the Castles of Slingesby Threske and others in this Tract The originall of this race if you desire to understand I will compendiously set it downe When Roger de Mowbray Earle of Northumberland and R. de Grunde-beofe for their disloialtie were dissezed of all their possessions King Henry the First bestowed a great part thereof upon Nigell or Niele de Albenie of the same family that the Albeneis Earles of Arundell were descended a man of very high birth in Normandie who had bin Bowbearer to King William Rufus and so enriched him thereby that he held in England 140. Knights fees and in Normandie 120. He commanded also that Roger his sonne should assume the name of Mowbray from whom flowred out the Mowbraies Earles of Nottingham and Dukes of Norfolke To these Mowbraies also belonged in times past Gilling Castle standing hard by but now unto that ancient and worshipfull family which of their faire bush of haire got their name Fairfax For Fax in the old English tongue signifieth haires or the haire of the head whereupon our progenitours called a Comet or blasing starre A Faxed starre like as a place whereof I have spoken before Haly-fax of holy haires Then beneath these Southward lieth Calaterium Nemus commonly called The Forest of Galtres shaded in some places with trees in other some a wet flat full of moist and moorish quavemires very notorious in these daies by reason of a solemne horse running wherein the horse that outrunneth the rest hath for his prise a little golden bell It is almost incredible what a multitude of people conflow hither from all parts to these games and what great wagers are laid on the horses heads for their swift running In this Forest standeth Creac which Egfrid King of Northumberland in the yeer 684 gave with three miles round about unto Saint Cuthbert by whom it came to the Church of Durrham Scarce foure miles hence is situate most pleasantly among little woods and groves Sherry-Hutton a very proper Castle built by Sir Bertrand Bulmer and reedified by Raulph Nevil the first Earle of Westmorland Neere unto which standeth Hinderskell a little Castle built by the Barons of Greystocke which others call Hunderd-skell of a number of fountaines that spring up and rise there Behind the hilles Westward where the country spreadeth it selfe out againe into a more fresh and plaine champion lieth Alverton-shire commonly called Northallerton-shire a little countrie watered with the riveret Wiske and taking the name of Northalverton a towne sometime called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is nothing else but a long broad street howbeit having in it on S. Bartholomewes day the greatest Faire of Kine and Oxen and of most resort that ever I saw in all my life King William Rufus gave this with the territory adjoining unto the Church of Durrham to the Bishops of which See it is very much beholden For William Comin who by force held the Bishopricke of Durrham built the Castle there and granted it unto his nephew which now is in manner quite decaied and gone The Bishops likewise his successors granted unto it certaine liberties and immunities For in the Booke of Durrham we read that Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durrham fortified the towne having obtained licence of the King that among those unlawfull castles which by Commandement were then destroyed in many places of England this onely should have the priviledge to stand still which notwithstanding the King commanded afterward to be layd even with the ground Hard by this was that field foughten which they commonly call the Battaile of the Standard in which David King of Scots who with his unexampled cruelty had made this country almost a wildernesse was after so great a slaughter of his people put to flight that then and never before our countrimen thought they were fully revenged For that indeed came to passe in this battaile which Raulfe the Bishop said when before the battaile in an oration he encouraged the English to fight A confused multitude untrained is an impediment to it selfe in prosperous successe to hurt others and in adverse
fortune to escape it selfe This was called The battaile of the Standard because the English keeping themselves close together about the standard received the first onset and shock of the Scotish endured it and at length put them to flight And this Standard as I have seene it pictured in ancient bookes was a mighty huge chariot supported with wheeles wherein was set a pole of a great height in manner of a mast and upon the very top thereof stood a crosse to bee seene and under the crosse hung a banner This when it was advanced was a token that every one should prepare himselfe to fight and it was reputed as an holy and sacred altar that each man was to defend with all power possible resembling the same for al the world that Carrocium of the Italians which might never be brought abroad but in the greatest extremitie and danger of the whole state Within this litle shire also Threske commonly called Thruske is worth to bee mentioned which had sometime a most strong Castle out of which Roger Mowbray displaied his banner of rebellion and called in the king of Scots to the overthrow of his owne native Country what time as King Henry the Second had rashly and inconsiderately digged as it were his owne grave by investing his sonne King in equall authority with himselfe But this rebellion was in the end quenched with bloud and this Castle quite dismantled so that beside a ditch and rampire I could see nothing there of a Castle Another firebrand also of rebellion flamed out heere in the Raigne of Henry the Seventh For when the unruly Commons tooke it most grievously that a light subsidie granted by the States of the Kingdome in Parliament was exacted of them and had driven away the Collectors thereof forthwith as it is commonly seene that Rashnesse speeding once well can never keepe a meane nor make an end they violently set upon Henry Percie Earle of Northumberland who was Lieutenant of these parts and slew him in this place and having John Egremond to be their leader tooke armes against their Country and their Prince but a few daies after they felt the smart of their lawlesse insolency grievously and justly as they had deserved Heere hard by are Soureby and Brakenbake belonging to a very ancient and right worshipfull family of the Lâ—scelles also more Southward Sezay sometime of the Darels from whence a great family branched and afterwards the Dawnies who for a long time flourished heere maintaining the degree and dignity of Knights right worthily The first and onely Earle of Yorke after William Mallet and one or two Estotevils of the Norman bloud who they say were Sheriffes by inheritance was Otho son to Henry Leo Duke of Bavar and Saxony by Maude the daughter of Henry the Second King of England who was afterwards proclaimed Emperour and stiled by the name of Otho the fourth From whose brother William another sonne of Maud are descended the Dukes of Brunswicke and Luneburgh in Germanie who for a token of this their kinred with the Kings of England give the same Armes that the first Kings of England of Norman bloud bare to wit two Leopards or Lions Or in a shield Gueles Long after King Richard the Second created Edmund of Langley fifth sonne of King Edward the Third Duke of Yorke who by a second daughter of Peter King of Castile and of Leon had two sonnes Edward the eldest in his fathers life time was first Earle of Cambridge afterwards Duke of Aumarle and in the end Duke of Yorke who manfully fighting in the battaile at Agincourt in France lost his life leaving no children and Richard his second sonne Earle of Cambridge who having marryed Anne sister of Edmund Mortimer whose grandmother likewise was the onely daughter of Leonell Duke of Clarence and practising to advance Edmund his wives brother to the royall dignity was streightwaies intercepted and beheaded as if hee had beene corrupted by the French to destroy King Henry the Fifth Sixteene yeeres after his sonne Richard was restored in bloud through the exceeding but unadvised favour of King Henry the Sixth as being sonne to Richard Earle of Cambridge brother to Edward Duke of Yorke and cozin also to Edmund Earle of March. And now being Duke of Yorke Earle of March and of Vlster Lord of Wigmore Clare Trim and Conaght hee bare himselfe so lofty that shortly hee made claime openly in Parliament against King Henry the Sixth as in his owne right for the Crowne which he had closely affected by indirect courses before in making complaints of the misgovernment of the State spreading seditious rumours scattering Libels abroad complotting secret Conspiracies and stirring up tumults yea and open Warres laying downe his Title thus as being the sonne of Anne Mortimer who came of Philip the daughter and sole heire of Leonel Duke of Clarence third sonne of King Edward the Third and therefore to be preferred by very good right in succession of the Kingdome before the children of John of Gaunt the fourth sonne of the said Edward the Third And when answere was made unto him that the Nobles of the Realme and the Duke himselfe had sworne Alleageance unto the King that the Kingdome by authority of Parliament had beene conferred and entailed upon Henry the Fourth and his heires that the Duke claiming his Title from the Duke of Clarence never tooke upon him the Armes of the Duke of Clarence that Henry the Fourth held the Crowne in right from King Henry the Third hee easily avoyded all these allegations namely that the said oath unto the King taken by mans law was in no wise to bee performed when as it tended to the suppression of the truth and right which stand by the Law of God That there was no need of Parliamentary authority to entaile the Crowne and Kingdome unto the Lancastrians neither would they themselves seeke for it so if they had stood upon any right thereunto As for the Armes of the Duke of Clarence which were his by right hee forbare of purpose to give them untill then like as hee did to claime his right to the Imperiall Crowne And as for the right or Title derived from king Henry the Third it was a meere ridiculous devise and manifest untruth to cloake the violent usurpation of Henry the Fourth and therefore condemned of all men Albeit these plees in the behalfe of the Duke of Yorke stood directly with law yet for remedy of imminent dangers the matter was ordered thus by the wisdome of the Parliament That Henry the Sixth should enjoy the right of the Kingdome for tearme of life onely and that Richard Duke of Yorke should be proclaimed heire apparant of the Kingdome he and his heires to succeed after him provided alwaies that neither of them should plot or practise ought to the destruction of the other Howbeit the Duke immediately was transported so headlong with ambition that hee went about to preoccupate and forestall
or Band of the Exploratores with their Captaine kept their station heere under the dispose of the Generall of Britaine as appeareth for certaine out of the NOTICE of Provinces where it is named LAVATRES But whereas such Bathes as these were called also in Latine Lavacra some Criticke no doubt will pronounce that this place was named LAVATRAE in stead of LAVACRA yet would I rather have it take the name of a little river running neere by which as I heare say is called Laver. As for the later name Bowes considering the old Towne was heere burnt downe to the ground as the inhabitants with one voice doe report I would thinke it grew upon that occasion For that which is burnt with fire the Britans still at this day doe terme Boeth and by the same word the Suburbes of Chester beyond the River Dee which the Englishmen call Hanbridge the Britans or Welshmen name Treboeth that is The burnt Towne because in a tumult of the Welshmen it was consumed with fire Heere beginneth to rise that high hilly and solitary Country exposed to winde and raine which because it is stony is called in our native language Stane more All heere round about is nothing but a wilde Desert unlesse it bee an homely Hostelry or Inne in the very middest thereof called The Spitle on Stane more for to entertaine waifaring persons and neere to it is a fragment of a Crosse which wee call Rerecrosse the Scots Reicrosse as one would say The Kings Crosse. Which Crosse Hector Boetius the Scottish Writer recordeth to have beene erected as a meere stone confining England and Scotland what time as King William the Conquerour granted Cumberland unto the Scots on this condition that they should hold it of him as his Tenants and not attempt any thing prejudiciall or hurtfull to the Crowne of England And a little lower upon the Romanes high street there stood a little Fort of the Romans built foure square which at this day they call Maiden-Castle From whence as the borderers reported the said High way went with many windings in and out as farre as to Caer Vorran in Northumberland There have beene divers Earles of Richmond according as the Princes favour enclined and those out of divers families whom I will notwithstanding set downe as exactly and truely as I can in their right order The first Earles were out of the house of little Britaine in France whose descent is confusedly intricate amongst their owne Writers for that there were two principall Earles at once one of Haulte Britaine and another of Base Britaine for many yeeres and every one of their children had their part in Gavell kinde and were stiled Earles of Britaine without distinction But of these the first Earle of Richmond according to our Writers and Records was Alane sirnamed Feregaunt that is The Red sonne of Hoel Earle of Britaine descended from Hawise great Aunt to William Conquerour who gave this Country unto him by name of the lands of Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire and withall bestowed his daughter upon him by whom he had no issue He built Richmond Castle as is before specified to defend himselfe from disinherited and outlawed Englishmen in those parts and dying left Britaine to his sonne Conan Le Grosse by a second wife But Alane the Blacke sonne of Eudo sonne of Geffrey Earle of Britaine and Hawise aforesaid succeeded in Richmond and he having no childe lest it to Stephen his brother This Stephen begat Alan sirnamed Le Savage his sonne and successour who assisted king Stephen against Maude the Empresse in the battaile at Lincolne and married Bertha one of the heires of Conan Le Grosse Earle of Hault Britaine by whom hee had Conan Le Petit Earle of both Britaine 's by hereditary right as well as of Richmond Hee by the assistance of King Henrie the Second of England dispossessed Endo Vicount of Porhoet his Father in Lawe who usurped the Title of Britaine in right of the said Bertha his Wife and ended his life leaving onely one daughter Constance by Margaret sister to Malcolne king of the Scots Geffrey third Sonne to King Henry the Second of England was advanced by his Father to the marriage of the said Constance whereby hee was Earle of Britaine and Richmond and begat of her Arthur who succeeded him and as the French write was made away by King Iohn his Unkle True it is indeed that for this cause the French called King Iohn into question as Duke of Normandy And notwithstanding he was absent and not heard once to plead neither confessing ought nor convicted yet by a definitive sentence they condemned him and awarded from him Normandy and his hereditary possessions in France Albeit himselfe had promised under safe conduct to appeare in personally at Paris there to make answere as touching the death of Arthur who as a Liege subject had bound himselfe by oath to bee true and loyall unto him and yet started backe from his allegeance raised a rebellion and was taken prisoner in battaile At which time this question was debated whether the Peeres of France might give judgement of a King annointed and therefore superiour considering that a greater dignity drowneth the lesser and now one and the same person was both King of England and Duke of Normandy But whither doe I digresse After Arthur these succeeded orderly in the Earldome of Richmond Guy Vicount of Thovars unto whom the foresaid Constance was secondly married Ranulph the third Earle of Chester the third husband of the said Constance Peter of Dreux descended from the bloud royall of France who wedded Alice the onely daughter of Constance by her husband abovenamed Guy Then upon dislike of the house of Britaine Peter of Savoy Unkle by the mothers side unto Eleonor the wife of king Henry the Third was made Earle of Richmond who for feare of the Nobles and Commons of England that murmured against strangers preferred to honours in England voluntarily surrendred up this Honour which was restored to Iohn Earle of Britaine sonne to Peter of Dreux After whom succeeded Iohn his sonne the first Duke of Britaine who wedded Beatrice daughter to Henry the Third King of England Whose sonne Arthur was Duke of Britaine and as some write Earle of Richmond Certes John of Britaine his younger brother immediately after the fathers death bare this honourable Title And he added unto the ancient Armes of Drewx with the Canton of Britaine the Lions of England in Bordeur Hee was Guardian of Scotland under King Edward the Second and there taken and detained prisoner for three yeeres space and dyed at length without issue in the Raigne of Edward the Third And John Duke of Britaine his nephew the sonne of Arthur succeeded in this Earledome After his decease without children when there was hote contention about the Dutchy of Britaine betweene John Earle of Montfort of the halfe bloud and Joane his brothers daughter and heire
of the whole bloud marryed to Charles of Bloys King Edward the Third affecting the said John Earle of Montfort and to strengthen his owne party in France favoured the Title of the said John Earle of Montfort for that he was a man and neerer in degree and therefore seemed to have better right and to bee preferred before his Niece to whom the Parliament of France had adjudged it and which is more for that he sware fealty to him as King of France for the Dutchy of Britaine In these respects he granted the Earldome of Richmond unto the said Iohn untill he might recover his owne possessions in France which being soone after recovered by aide of the English the said King bestowed it upon Iohn of Gaunt his sonne And he afterward surrendred it againe into the King his fathers hands for other possessions Who forthwith created Iohn Earle of Montfort Duke of Britaine sirnamed The valiant Earle of Richmond unto whom hee had given his daughter to wife that thereby hee might more surely oblige unto him a warlique person and then ill affected to the French But in the fourth yeere of Richard the Second he by authority of the Parliament forfaited his Earldome because he adhered unto the French King against England howbeit hee kept still the bare Title and left it unto his posterity But the possession was granted to Dame Ioane of Britaine his sister and the widdow of Ralph Lord Basset of Draiton After her decease first Ralph Nevill Earle of Westmorland had the Castle and Earldome of Richmond for the tearme of his owne life by the gift of King Henry the Fourth And after him Iohn Duke of Bedford Then king Henry the Sixth conferred the Title of Earle of Richmond upon Edmund of Hadham his halfe brother by the mothers side with this speciall and peculiar prerogative To take his place in Parliament next unto Dukes After him succeeded Henry his sonne who was King of England by the name of Henry the Seventh But during his exile George Duke of Clarence and Richard Duke of Glocester received the Signiory of Richmond but not the Title from their brother king Edward the Fourth Last of all Henry the base sonne of king Henry the Eighth was by his father invested Duke of Richmond who departed this life without issue 1535. As for Sir Thomas Grey who was made Baron of Richmount by king Henry the Sixth was not Lord of this Richmond but of a place in Bedfordshire called Rugemound and Richmount Greies There are contained in this Shire Parishes 104. beside Chappels BISHOPRICK OF DVRHAM THe Bishopricke of Durham or Duresme bordering on the North side upon Yorke-shire is shaped in fashion of a triangle the utmost angle whereof is made up toward the West where the Northren limit and the Spring-head of Tees doe meete One of the sides which lieth Southward is bounded in with the continued course of the river Tees running downe along by it the other that looketh Northward is limited first with a short line from the utmost point to the river Derwent then with Derwent it selfe untill it hath taken unto it Chopwell a little river and afterward with the river Tine The Sea coast fashioneth out the Base of the Triangle which lieth Eastward and the German Ocean with a mighty roaring and forcible violence beareth thereupon On that part where it gathereth narrow to the Westerne angle the fields are naked and barren the woods very thin the hills bare without grasse but not without mynes of iron As for the Vallies they are reasonably grassie and that high hill which I termed the Apennine of England cutteth in twain this angle But on the East part or Base of the Triangle as also on both sides the ground being well manured is very fruitful and the increase yeeldeth good recompence for the husbandmans toile it is also well garnished with meddowes pastures and corn-fields beset everywhere with townes and yeelding plenty of Sea coale which in many places we use for fewell Some will have this coale to be an earthy black Bitumen others to be Gagates and some againe the Lâ—pis Thracius all which that great Philosopher in Minerals George Agricola hath prooved to be one and the same thing Surely this of ours is nothing else but Bitumen or a clammy kind of cley hardned with heat under the earth and so throughly concocted For it yeeldeth the smell of Bitumen and if water bee sprinkled upon it it burneth more vehemently and the cleerer but whether it may bee quenched with oile I have not yet tried And if the Stone called Obsidianus be in our country I would take that to bee it which is found in other places of England and commonly called Canole cole For it is hard bright light and somewhat easie to be cloven piece meale into flakes and being once kindled it burneth very quickly But let us leave these matters to those that search more deeply into Natures closets All this country with other territories also thereto adjoyning the Monasticall writers tearme the Land or Patrimonie of Saint Cuthbert For so they called whatsoever belonged to the Church of Durham whereof S. Cuthbert was the Patron who in the primitive state of the English Church being Bishop of Lindefarn led all his life in such holinesse and so sincerely that he was enrolled among the English Saints Our kings also and Peeres of the Realme because they verily perswaded themselves that he was their Tutelar Saint and Protectour against the Scots went not onely in Pilgrimage with devotion to visite his body which they beleeved to have continued still found and uncorrupt but also gave very large possessions to this Church and endowed the same with many immunities King Edgfride bestowed upon Cuthbert himselfe whiles he lived great revenewes in the very City of Yorke and Creake also whereof I spake and the City Luguballia as wee reade in the History of Durham King Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane whom hee made Lieutenant of Northumberland gave afterwards all the Lands betweene the Rivers Were and Tine unto Cuthbert and to those who ministred in his Church to have and to hold for ever as their rightfull Possession These bee the very words in effect of an ancient Booke whence they might have sufficient maintenance to live upon and not be pinched with poverty over and besides they ordeined his Church to bee a safe Sanctuary for all fugitives that whosoever for any cause fled unto his Corps should have peaceable being for 37. daies and the same liberty never for any occasion to bee infringed or denyed Edward and Athelstan Kings Knute also or Canutus the Dane who came on his bare feete to Cuthberts Tombe not onely confirmed but enlarged also these liberties In like manner King William the Conquerour since whose time it hath alwayes beene deemed a County Palatine yea and some of the Bishops as Counts Palatine have engraven in their seales a Knight or man at armes in compleat harnesse sitting
upon an horse all trapped with one hand brandishing a sword and in the other holding out the Armes of the Bishopricke The Bishops also have had their royalties and princely rights so that the goods of outlawed and attainted persons out of the Kings protection fell into their hands and not into the Kings yea and the Commons of that Province standing upon their priviledges have refused to serve in warre under the King in Scotland For they pleaded the Story of Duresme shall speake for mee That they were Haliwerke folkes and held their lands to defend the Corps of Saint Cuthbert neither ought they to goe out of the precincts of the Bishopricke namely beyond Tine and Teese for King or Bishop But King Edward the First was the first that abridged them of these liberties For when as he interposed himselfe as Arbitratour betweene the Bishop Antony Bec and the Priour who contended most egerly about certaine lands and they would not stand to his award Hee seised as saith mine Authour the liberty of the Bishopricke into his owne hand and there were many corners searched many flawes found and the Liberty in many points much impaired Howbeit the Church afterward recovered her rights and held them inviolate unto the daies of King Edward the Sixth unto whom upon the dissolution of the Bishopricke the States in Parliament granted all the revenewes and liberties thereof But forthwith Queene Mary by the same authority repealed this Act and restored all things safe and sound unto the Church againe which it enjoyeth at this day For the Bishop James Pilkinton of late time entred his action against Queene Elizabeth about the possessions and goods of Charles Nevill Earle of Westmorland and of others that stood attainted for treason in this precinct because they had most wickedly levied warre against their native Country and he the said Bishop had followed the suit to a triall if the authority of Parliament had not interposed and adjudged the same for that time unto the Queene because to her exceeding great charges she had delivered both Bishop and Bishopricke from the outrage of the Rebels But leaving these matters let us proceed forward to the descripton of places The riuer that boundeth the South part of this country is called by Latin writers Teisis and Teesa commonly Tees by Polydore Virgill the Italian whose minde ranne of Athesis in his owne country Italy without any reason Athesis In Ptolomee it seemeth to be called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and yet I thinke that in him it is removed out of his proper place through the negligence of transcribers For considering that he hath placed TUESIS and TINA in the more remote part of Britaine where the Scots now inhabite and seeing that this Region is enclosed within Tees and Tine If I durst as a Criticke correct that ancient Geographer I would recall them home againe hither into their owne places though they have been long displaced and that with the Scots good leave I hope who have no Rivers upon which they can truely father these names TEES springeth out of that stony country called Stanemore and carrying with him away in his chanell along many brookes and beckes on each side and running through rockes out of which at Egleston where there is a marble Quarroy and where Conan Earle of Britaine and Richmond founded a small Abbay first beateth upon Bernard Castle built and so named by Bernard Balliol the great grandfathers father of John Balliol King of the Scots But this John Balliol whom King Edward the First had declared King of Scotland lost the same with other his possessions because he had broken his alleageance which he sware unto Edward At which time the King being highly displeased with Antony Bishop of Durrham tooke this Castle as witnesseth the booke of Duresme with the appertinences thereto from him and conferred the same upon the Earle of Warwicke as Herkes also and Hertnes which hee gave unto Robert Clifford Kewerston also which hee bestowed upon Geffrey of Hertpole which the Bishop had by the forfeiture of Iohn Baliol Robert Bruse and Christopher Seton But a few yeeres after Lewis Beaumount the Bishop a man royally descended but altogether unlettered brought his action for this Castle and the rest of those possessions and obtained his suite by vertue of judgement given in this tenour The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeiture of Warres within the Liberties of his Bishopricke as the King hath it without Hard by it is Stretlham seene where dwelt for a long time the worshipfull family of the Bowes Knights who from time to time in the greatest troubles have performed passing good service to Prince and Country and derive their pedigree from W. de Bowes unto whom as I have read Alanus Niger Earle of Britaine and Richmond granted that hee might give for his Armes The Scutcheon of Britaine with three bent Bowes therein Not full five miles from hence standeth somewhat farther from Tees banke Standrop which also is called Stainthorpe that is Stony Village a little Mercate Towne where there was a Collegiat Church founded by the Nevills and was their Buriall-place Neere unto it is Raby whch Cnut or Canute the Danish King gave freely unto the Church of Durham together with the land lying round about it and Stanthorpe to be held for ever Since which time as mine Authour informeth mee The Family of the Nevills or De nova villa held Raby of the Church paying yeerely for it foure pounds and a Stagge These Nevilles deduce their Descent from Waltheof Earle of Northumberland out of whose posterity when Robert the sonne of Maldred Lord of Raby had married the daughter of Geffrey Nevill the Norman whose Grandsire Gilbert Nevill is reported to have beene Admirall to King William the Conquerour their succeeding Progeny tooke unto them the name of Nevilles and grew up into a most numerous honourable and mighty house who erected heere a great and spacious Castle which was the first and principall seate These two places Stainthorpe and Raby are severed one from another onely by a little rill which after some few miles runneth into Tees neere unto Selaby where now is the habitation of the Brakenburies a Family of right good note both in regard of their owne Antiquity as also for their marriages contracted with the heires of Denton and of Wicliff Tees passing on from thence by Sockburne the dwelling house of the ancient and noble Family of the Coigniers out of which were the Barons Coigniers of Hornby whose inheritance much bettered by matching in marriage with the heires of the Lord Darcy of Metnill and of William Nevill Earle of Kent and Lord of Fauconberg is descended from them in the memory of our fathers to the Atherstons and the Darcies holdeth his course neere unto Derlington a Mercate Towne of good resort which Seir an English Saxon the sonne of Ulph
having obtained leave of King Etheldred gave unto the Church of Durham and Hugh Pudsey adorned it with a faire Church and other edifices In this Towne field are three pittes of a wonderfull depth the common people tearme them Hell-Kettles because the water in them by the Antiperistasis or reverberation of the cold aire striking thereupon waxeth hote The wiser sort and men of better judgement doe thinke they came by the sinking downe of the ground swallowed up in some earth-quake and that by a good probable reason For thus we reade in the Chronicles of Tinmouth In the yeere of our Lord 1179. on Christmas day at Oxenhall in the Territory of Derlington within the Bishopricke of Durham the ground heaved it selfe up aloft like unto an high Towre and so continued all that day as it were unmoveable untill the evening and then fell with so horrible a noise that it made all the neighbour dwellers afraide and the earth swallowed it up and made in the same place a deepe pit which is there to bee seene for a testimony unto this day That these Pittes have passages under the ground Bishop Cuthbert Tonstall first observed by finding that Goose in the River Tees which he for the better triall and experience of these Pits had marked and let downe into them Beyond Derlington Tees hath no Townes of any great account standing upon it but gliding along the skirtes of greene fields and by country Villages winding in and out as he passeth at length dischargeth himselfe at a large mouth into the Ocean whence the base or bothom of the Triangle aforesaid towards the Sea beginneth From hence the shore coasteth Northward holding on entire still save that it is interrupted with one or two little Brookes and no more neere unto Gretham where Robert Bishop of Durham having the Manour given freely unto him by Sir Peter de Montfort founded a goodly Hospitall Next unto it is Claxton which gave name unto a Family of good and ancient note in this Tract whereof I have beene the more willing to make mention because of the same house was T. Claxton an affectionate lover of venerable Antiquity From thence the shore shooteth forth into the Sea with one onely Promontory scarce seven miles above Tees mouth on which standeth very commodiously Hartlepoole a good Towne of trade and a safe harbour for shipping Bede seemeth to call it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which Henry of Huntingdon interpreteth The Harts or Stagges Island where hee writeth that Heiu a religious woman founded a Monastery in times past If Heorteu bee not rather the name of that little Territory which the Booke of Dâ—resme seemeth to implie and in another place calleth Heortnesse because it lyeth out somewhat farre into the Sea From this for fifteene miles together the shore being in no place broken off but heere and there embroidered as it were and garnished with Townes smileth pleasantly upon those that saile that way untill it openeth it selfe to make roome for the River VEDRA for so Ptolomee calleth that which Bede nameth Wirus the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we Were This river first groweth into one out of three riverets Burden-hop Wel-hop and Kel-hop in the utmost part of this Country Westward which when they are joyned in one chanell is called by one name Were and speedeth into the East by vast moores and heathes by great Parkes of the Bishops and by Witton a little Castle or pile belonging to the Lords Evers who are Noblemen in this Country of great antiquity as descended from the Lords of Clavering and Warkworth as also from the Vescyes and the Attons by Daughters renowned for their martiall prowesse which Scotland may well witnesse For King Edward the First gave unto them for their valiant service Kettnes a little Towne in Scotland and King Henry the Eighth within our fathers remembrance honoured them in that respect with the Title of Barons Then Were after a few miles taketh into him from the South Gaunlesse a Riveret where at the very meeting of them both together there standeth upon an high hill Aukland so called of Okes like as Sarron in Greece which sheweth an house of the Bishops stately built with Turrets by Antony Bec and withall a beautifull Bridge made by Walter Skirlaw a Bishop of Durham about the yeere 1400. who also enlarged this house and built the Bridge over Tees at Yare From hence Were turneth his course Northward that he might water this shire the longer and then forthwith looketh up to the remaines of an ancient City not now a dying but dead many yeeres agoe standing on the brow of an hill which Antonine the Emperour called VINOVIUM Ptolomee BINOVIUM in whom it is so thrust out of his owne place and set as it were in another Climate that it would for ever have lien hid had not Antonine pointed at it with his finger Wee call it at this day Binchester and it hath in it a very few houses yet it is very well knowne to them that dwell thereabout both by reason of the heapes of rubbish and the reliques of walles yet to be seene as also for peeces of Romane Coine often digged up there which they call Binchester Penies yea and for the Inscriptions of the Romanes amongst which I happened of late when I was there upon an Altar with this Inscription DE AB MATRIB Q. LO CL. QUIN TIANUS COS V. S. L. M. Another stone also was heere lately gotten out of the ground but defaced with voide places where the letters were worne out which notwithstanding if one beheld it wishly seemeth to shew this Inscription TRIB COHOR I. CARTOV MARTI VICTORI GENIO LOCI ET BONO EVENTUI Neither have I read any thing else of it but that an old booke maketh mention how the Earles of Northumberland long since plucked away this with other Villages from the Church what time as that accursed and unsatiable hunger after Gold swallowed up also the sacred patrimony of the Church On the other banke of Were among the mounting Hilles appeareth Branspeth Castle which the Bulmers built and the daughter of Sir Bertram Bulmer coupled in marriage unto Geffrey Nevill adjoyned with other great Possessions unto the Family of the Nevills Within a while after Were runneth downe much troubled and hindered in his Course with many great Stones apparent above the water which unlesse the River doe rise and swell with great store of raine are never over covered and upon which a thing that happeneth not elsewhere if yee powre water and temper it a little with them it sucketh in a saltish quality Nay that which more is at Butterby a little Village when the River in Summer time is very ebbe and shallow there issueth out of those stones a certaine salt reddish water which by the heat of the Sunne waxeth so white and withall groweth to a thicke substance that
an Attourney a Receiver a Clerke of the Court sixe Assistants a Messenger two Auditors 23. Receivers and three Supervisors c. There are counted in this shire beside very many Chappels Parishes 36. and no more but those wonderfull populous and which for multitude of inhabitants farre exceed the greatest parishes elsewhere WESTMORLANDIAE Comitatus qui olim Spectaint ad BRIGANTAS WEST-MOR-LAND BEYOND the furthest part of Lancashire more Northward lieth another lesser countrey of the Brigantes called by late Latine writers Westmaria and Westmorlandia in our tongue West-more-land and of some later Latine writers Westmoria bounded on the West and North side with Cumberland on the East with Yorke-shire and the Bishopricke of Durham Which because it lyeth all of it among moores and high hilles reaching one to another for our Apennine waxeth here broader and broader still as it runneth and was for the most part un-manured came by this name in our language For such barren places which cannot easily by the painfull labour of the husbandman bee brought to fruitfulnesse the Northren Englishmen call Moores and West-more-land is nothing else with us but A westerne moorish country Let that dreame therefore as touching King Marius bee excluded out of the schoole of reverend antiquity who forsooth as our Chroniclers have dreamed subdued the Picts and called this countrey after his owne name The more Southerly part of this shire contained in a narrow roome betweene the river Lone and Winander mere is reputed fruitfull enough in the vallies although it can shew many felles with rough and stony rockes lying ever bare without grasse and is all tearmed by one name The Barony of Kendale and Candale that is The Dale by Can for it took name of the river Can which running rough upon stones cutteth through it On the west banke whereof standeth Kandale or Kendale called also Kirke by Kandale a towne of very great trade and resort with two broad and long streets crossing the one over the other and a place for excellent clothing and for industry so surpassing that in regard thereof it carrieth a great name For the inhabitants have great trafficke and vent of their woollen clothes throughout all parts of England They count it also much for their credit that it hath dignified Barons and Earles with the title thereof As for their Barons they were the offspring of Iuo Taleboys of whose race William by consent of King Henry the second called himselfe William of Lancaster whose Niece and heire was wedded unto Gilbert the sonne of Roger Fitz-Reinfrid by whose daughters after her sonne William was dead the inheritance went to Peter Brus Lord of Skelton the second of that forename and unto William Lindesay from whom by the mothers side as we learne out of the Lieger book of Fornesse Abbey Ingelram Lord of Coucy in France fetched his descent By which Peter Brus his daughter the sister and heire of Peter Brus the third came this Barony to the Rosses of Werke and from them by right of inheritance this possession was devolved upon the Parres of whom Sir William Par was made Lord Par by King Henry the eighth As for the Castle the ancient seat of these Lords standing over against the towne it runneth to decay through age and neglect As for Earles of Kendale there have beene three in number John Duke of Bedford advanced to that honour by his brother King Henry the fifth John Duke of Somerset and John de Foix of that most noble and honorable family of the Foix in France whom King Henry the sixth for his faithfull service in the French warres had preferred to that dignity Whence perhaps it is that some of this house of Foix in France retain the name still of Candale As for any glory else of antiquity Kendall to my knowledge challengeth none And yet I was once of opinion that it was CONCANGII a station place sometimes of the Romanes but time hath now instructed mee better Somewhat beneath in the river Can are two Catadupae or water falls where the waters have a downefall with a mighty noise the one is by Levens a little village the other more Southward neere to Betham which to the neighbour inhabitants are as good as true prognostications for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleere and aloud in their eares they looke certainely for faire weather when that on the South side doth the same they expect no other than showers of raine and foggy mists Thus much for the South and narrower part of this region which Westward is bounded with the river Winster and the spatious Lake Winander-mere whereof I spake erewhile and Eastward with the river Lone or Lune At the upper corner of Winander-mere lieth the dead carcasse as one would say of an ancient City with great ruines of walls and many heapes of rubbish one from another remaining of buildings without the walls yet to bee seene The fortresse thereof was somewhat long fensed with a ditch and rampire for it tooke up in length 132. Ells and in bredth 80. That it had beene the Romans worke is evident by the British brickes by the mortar tempered with little peeces of bricke among by small earthen pots or pitchers by small cruets or vials of glasse by peeces of Roman money oftentimes there found and by round stones as much as milstones or quernstones of which layed and couched together they framed in old time their columnes and by the paved high waies leading unto it Now the ancient name thereof is gone unlesse a man would ghesse at it and thinke it were that AMBOGLANA whereof the booke of Notices maketh mention seeing at this day it is called Ambleside On the East side the river Lone serveth for a limit and after his name the tract lying about it is called Lonsdale the principall towne whereof is Kirkby Lonsdale whither all the people round about repaire to Church and mercate Above the Spring-head of Lone the countrey spreadeth broader and the hills shoot out with many turnings betweene which there lye some vallies marvellous steepe and deepe withall with many hollow places in manner of caves Among these hills that notable river Eden which Ptolomee calleth ITUNA shewing his head first in Yorkshire carrying a small and faint streame in the beginning but afterwards growing by little and little bigger with sundry beckes still augmenting it seeketh a way Northwest by Pendragon Castle which hath nothing left unto it unconsumed by time besides the bare name and an heape of stones From thence hee passeth by Wharton Hall the seat of the Barons Wharton of whom the first was Sir Thomas Wharton advanced to that dignity by King Henry the Eighth whom succeeded his sonne of the same name and after him Philip that now liveth the third Baron a right honourable person Afterwards it runneth downe by Kirkby Stephen a mercate towne well knowne and both the Musgraves two little villages
Romane high-way goeth straight into the West by Whinfield a large Parke shaded with trees hard by BROVONIACUM standing twentie Italian miles or seventeene English miles from VERTERAE as Antonine hath set it who also hath called it Brovocum like as the book of Notices Broconiacum which specifieth that a companie or band of Defensors had here their abode The beautie and buildings of this towne although time hath consumed yet the name remaineth almost untouched for we call it Brogham Here the river Eimot flowing out of a great lake for a good space dividing this shire from Cumberland receiveth the river Loder into it neere unto the spring head whereof hard by Shape in times past Hepe a little monasterie built by Thomas the sonne of Gospatrick sonne of Orms there is a Well or Fountaine which after the manner of Euripus ebbeth and floweth many times in a day also there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides some 9. foot high and fourteene foot thick ranged directly as it were in a row for a mile in length with equall distance almost betweene which may seeme to have beene pitched and erected for to continue the memoriall of some act there atchieved but what the same was by the injurie of time it is quite forgotten Hard by Loder there is a place bearing the same name which like as Stricland neere unto it hath imparted their names to families of ancient gentrie and worship Somewhat above where Loder and Eimot meet in one chanell in the yeere of our Lord 1602. there was a stone gotten out of the ground erected in the honour of Constantine the Great with these words IMP. C. VAL. CONSTANTINO PIENT AUG When Eimot hath served a good while for a limit betweene this shire and Cumberland neere unto Isan-parles a rocke full well knowne unto the neighbour inhabitants whereunto nature hath left difficult passage and there framed sundry caves and thosefull of winding crankes a place of safe refuge in time of danger hee lodgeth himselfe after some few miles both with his owne streame and with the waters of other rivers also in Eden so soone as he hath entertained Blencarne a brook that boundeth this county on Cumberland side Neere unto which I have heard there be the strange ruines of an old Castle the people call them the hanging walls of Marcantoniby that is of Marke Antony as they would have it As for such as have borne the title of Westmorland the first Lord to my knowledge was Robert de Vipont who bare Guels sixe Annulets Or in his coat armour For King John gave unto him the balliwicke and revenues of Westmorland by the service of foure Knights whereupon the Cliffords his successors untill our daies held the office of the Sherifdome of Westmorland For Robert de Vipont the last of that name left behind him only two daughters Isabel wife to Roger Lord Clifford and Idonea married unto Sir Roger Leybourne Long time after K. Richard the second created Ralph Nevill of Raby the first Earle of Westmorland a man of the greatest and most ancient birth of English nobility as descended from Ucthred Earl of Northumberland whose heires successively by his former wife Margaret daughter to the Earle of Stafford flourished in that honour untill that Charles by his wilfull stomack and wicked conspiracy casting off his allegeance to Q. Elizabeth and covering treason under the mantle of religion most shamefully dishonoured that most noble house and foully steined his owne reputation by actuall rebellion in the yeere 1599. Whereupon hee fled into the Low countries led a miserable life and died as miserably The said first Earle to note so much incidently by his second wife Catharine daughter to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster had so faire issue and the name of Nevill thereby so greatly multiplied that almost at one and the same time there flourished out beside the Earle of Westmorland an Earle of Salisbury an Earle of Warwicke an Earle of Kent Marquesse Montacute a Duke of Bedford Lord Latimer and Lord Abergevenny all Nevils In this shire are conteined Parishes 26. CVMBRIA Sive CVMBERLANDIA Quae olim pars Brigantum CUMBER-LAND WEstward Northward from Westmorland lieth CUMBERLAND the utmost region this way of the realme of England as that which on the North side boundeth upon Scotland on the South side and the West the Irish sea beateth upon it and Eastward above Westmorland it butteth upon Northumberland It tooke the name of the inhabitants who were the true and naturall Britans and called themselves in their owne language Kumbri and Kambri For the Histories testifie that the Britans remained here a long time maugre the English Saxons howsoever they stormed thereat yea and Marianus himselfe recordeth as much who tearmed this countrey Cumbrorum terram that is Thâ— land of the Cumbri or Britans to say nothing of the places that everie where here beare British names as Caer-Luel Caer-dronoc Pen-rith Pen-rodoc c. which most evidently declare the same and as cleerly prove mine assertion The country although it be somewhat with the coldest as lying farre North and seemeth as rough by reason of hills yet for the varietie thereof it smileth upon the beholders and giveth contentment to as many as travaile it For after the rockes bunching out the mountaines standing thicke together rich of metall mines and betweene them great meeres stored with all kindes of wilde foule you come to prettie hills good for pastorage and well replenished with flockes of sheepe beneath which againe you meet with goodly plaines spreading out a great way yeelding come sufficiently Besides all this the Ocean driving and dashing upon the shore affoordeth plentie of excellent good fish and upbraideth as it were the inhabitants thereabouts with their negligence for that they practise fishing no more than they doe The South part of this shire is called Copeland and Coupland for that it beareth up the head aloft with sharpe edged and pointed hills which the Britans tearme Copa or as others would have it named Copeland as one would say Coperland of rich mines of copper therein In this part at the very mouth of the river Duden whereby it is severed apart from Lancashire standeth Millum Castle belonging to the ancient house of the Hodlestones from whence as the shore fetcheth about with a bent Northward two rivers very commodiously enclose within them Ravenglasse a station or roade for ships where also as I have learned were to be â—eene Roman inscriptions some will have it called in old time Aven-glasse as one would say the blew river and they talke much of King Eueling that here had his Court and royall palace One of these rivers named Eske springeth up at the foot of Hard-knot an high steepe mountaine in the top whereof were discovered of late huge stones and foundations of a castle not without great wonder considering it is so steep and upright that one can hardly ascend up to it
Carlile had was Sir Andrew de Harcla whom King Edward the second created Earle that I may speake out of the very originall instrument of his Creation for his laudable good service performed against Thomas Earle of Lancaster and other his abetters in vanquishing the Kings enemies and disloiall subjects in delivering them up into the Kings hands when they were vanquished giâ—t with a sword and created Earle under the honour and name of the Earle of Carlile Who notwithstanding proved a wretched Traitour himselfe unthankfull and disloyally false both to his Prince and country and being afterwards apprehended was with shame and reproach paied duly for the desert of his perfidious ingratitude degraded in this maner first by cutting off his spurres with an hatchet afterwards disgirded of his military Belt then dispoiled of his shooes and gantlets last of all and was drawne hanged beheaded and quartered As for the position of Carlile the Meridian is distant from the utmost line of the West 21. degrees and 31. minutes and elevation of the North pole 54. degrees and 55. minutes and so with these encomiasticall verses of M. I. Ionston Ibid Carlile adue CARLEOLUM Romanis quondam statio tutissima signis Ultimaque Ausonidum meta labosque Ducum Especula laiè vicinos prospicit agros Hic ciet pugnas arcet inde metus Gens acri ingenio studiis asperrima belli Doctaque bellaci fig ere tela manu Scotorum Reges quondam tenuere beati Nunc iterum priscis additur imperiis Quid Romane putas extrema hîc limina mundi Mundum retrò alium surgere nonne vides Sit vidisse satis docuit nam Scotica virtus Immensis animis hîc posuisse modum CARLILE Unto the Romane legions sometimes the surest Station The farthest bound and Captaines toile of that victorious nation From prospect high farre all abroad it lookes to neighbour fields Hence fight and skirmish it maintaines and thence all danger shields People quicke witted fierce in field in martiall feats well seene Expert likewise right skilfully to fight with weapons keene Whilom the Kings of Scots it held whiles their state stood upright And once againe to ancient crowne it now reverts by right What Romane Cesar thinkest thou the world hath here an end And seest thou not another world behind doth yet extend Well maist thou see this and no more for Scotish valour taught Such haughty mindes to gage themselves and here to make default If you now crosse over the river Eden you may see hard by the banke Rowcliffe a little castle erected not long since by the Lords de Dacres for the defence of their Tenants And above it the two rivers Eske and Leven running jointly together enter at one out-gate into the Solway Frith As for Eske he rumbleth down out of Scotland and for certaine miles together confesseth himselfe to bee within the English dominion and entertaineth the river Kirsop where the English and Scottish parted asunder of late not by waters but by mutuall feare one of another having made passing good proofe on both sides of their great valour and prowesse Neere this river Kirsop where is now seene by Nether-By a little village with a few cottages in it where are such strange and great ruines of an ancient City and the name of Eske running before it doth sound so neare that wee may imagine AESICA stood there wherein the Tribune of the first band of the Astures kept watch and ward in old time against the Northren enemies But now dwelleth here the chiefe of the Grayhams family very famous among the Borderers for their martiall disposition and in a wall of his house this Romane inscription is set up in memoriall of Hadrian the Emperour by the Legion surnamed Augusta Secunda IMP. CAES. TRA. HADRIANO AUG LEG II. AUG F. But where the River Lidd and Eske conjoine their streames there was sometimes as I have heard Liddel castle and the Barony of the Estotevils who held lands in Cornage which Earle Ranulph as I read in an old Inquisition gave unto Turgill Brundas But from Estotevill it came hereditarily unto the Wakes and by them unto the Earles of Kent of the blood roiall And John Earle of Kent granted it unto King Edward the third and King Richard the second unto John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster Beyond this river Eske the land for certaine miles together is accounted English ground wherein Solom Mosse became very famous by reason especially of so many of the Scottish Nobility taken there prisoners in the yeere 1543. What time as the Scottish resolute to set upon Sir Thomas Wharton Lord warden of the English marches so soone as they understood that their King had committed the command of the army to Oliver Sincler whom they disdained they conceived such indignation thereat that with their owne shame and losse breaking their arraies in tumultuous manner they made a generall confusion of all which the English beholding from the higher ground forthwith charged violently upon them and put them to flight many they took prisoners who flinging away their weapons yeelded themselves after some few souldiers on both sides slaine into the hands of the English and of the borderers Presently whereupon James the fifth King of Scots was so disjected that weary of his life he died for very sorrow The land thereabout is called Batable ground as one would say Litigious because the English and the Scottish have litigiously contended about it For the inhabitants on both sides as borderers in all other parts are a military kind of men nimble wily alwaies in readines for any service yea and by reason of often skirmishes passing well experienced Leven the other river whereof I spake springing in the limit just of both kingdomes runneth by no memorable place unlesse it be Beucastle as they commonly call it a Castle of the Kings which standing in a wild and solitary country hath beene defended onely by a ward of souldiers But this in publicke records is written Bueth-castle so that the name may seeme to have come from that Bueth who about King Henry the first his dayes after a sort ruled all in this tract Certaine it is that in the reigne of Edward the third it was the patrimony of Sir John of Strivelin a Baron who married the daughter and one of the heires of Adam of Swinborne In the Church now much decaied there is layed for a grave-stone this old inscription translated thither from some other place LEG II. AUG FECIT In the Church-yard there is erected a Crosse about 20. foot high all of one entire foure square stone very artificially cut and engraven but the letters are so worn and gone that they cannot be read But whereas the Crosse is chequy in that manner as the shield of Armes belonging to the family of Vaulx sometime Lords in this tract we may well thinke that it was erected by them More into the South and farther within
the country lyeth the Barony of Gillesland a little region so encombred by reason of sudden rising brookes which they call Gilles that I would have deemed it tooke the name of them had I not read in a booke belonging to the Abbey of Lanercost that one Gill Fitz-Bueth who is called also Gilbert in a Charter of King Henry the second held it as Lord in old time of whom it is probable this name was rather given to it Through this Gillesland the wall of Severus that most famous monument of all Britaine runneth streight as it were by a line from Carlile Eastward by Stanwicks a little village by Scalby castle belonging in times past to the Tilliols sometimes a name in this tract of good worship and reputation from whom it came to the Pickerings then Cambec a small brooke runneth under the wall Neere unto which the Barons of Dacre built Askerton castle a little pile where the Governour of Gillesland whom they call Land-Sergeant had a ward Beneath the wall it conjoyneth it selfe with the river Irthing where standeth Irthington a chiefe Manour as they tearme it of this Barony of Gillesland And great ruins are here to be seen at Castle-steed Neere unto it is Brampton a little mercate towne which we suppose to bee BREMETURACUM at the very line and range of the wall for it is scarce a mile from the said wall where in times past lay the first Band of the Tungri out of Germanie in the declining state of the Romane Empire and a company of Armaturae under the generall of Britaine These were horsemen armed at all peeces But whether these Armatures were Duplar or Simplar it is doubtfull Duplar or Duple Armaturae they were called in those daies who had double allowances of corne Simplar that had but single Neither verily must I overpasse in silence that hard by Brampton there mounteth up an high hill fortified in the verie top with a trench they call it the Mote from which there is a faire prospect every way into the country Beneath this and by Castle-steeds like as at Trederman joining unto it were found these inscriptions exemplified for me by the hand of the right honourable Lord William Howard of Naworth third sonne unto Thomas late Duke of Norfolke a singular lover of venerable antiquitie and learned withall who in these parts in right of his wife a sister and one of the heires of the last Lord Dacre enjoieth faire possessions This stone also was found there in an old Hot-house wherein by ill fortune the name of the Emperours Lievtenant and Propretour of Britaine is worne out Neere to Brampton Gelt a riveret runneth downe by the banke whereof in a crag called Helbecke are read these antiquities wherein the words hang not well together erected as it seemeth by a Lievtenant of the second Legion Augusta under Agricola the Propraetour and others beside which the injurie of time hath envied us In the same rocke these words also are read written in a more moderne and newer letter OFFICIUM ROMANORUM This Gelt emptieth himselfe into the river Irthing which with a swift and angry streame holdeth his course by Naworth Castle belonging unto the Lord William Howard aforesaid who now repaireth it but lately to the Barons of Dacre of whom when the last died in his tender yeeres Leonard Dacre his Unkle who chose rather to try the title of inheritance with his Prince by force of armes than with his Nieces by wager of law seized into his hands this Castle and levied a band of rebels against his Prince whom the Lord of Hunsdon with the garrison souldiers of Berwick soone discomfited and put to flight in which conflict many were slaine but more ranne away amongst whom Leonard himselfe escaped But of him more in my Annales Neerer unto the wall beyond the river Irthing was lately found this faire votive altar erected to the Goddesse Nymphe of the Brigantes for the health of the Empresse Plautilla wife to M. Aurelius Antoninus Severus and the whole Imperiall family by M. Cocceius Nigrinus a Treasurer to the Emperour when Laetus was second time Consull with intricate connexion of letters which I read thus DEAE NYMPHAE BRIGantum QUOD VOVERAT PRO SALUTE PLAUTILIAE COnjugis INVICTAE DO Mini NOSTRI INVICTI IMP. M. AURE Lii SEVERI ANTONINI PII. FE Licis C AE Saris AU Gusti TOTIUSQUEDO MUS DIVINAE EJUS M. COCCEIUS NIGRINUS Questor AU Gusti Numini DEVOTUS LIBENS SUSCEPTUM Solvit LAETO II. Here by was the Priory of Lanercost founded by R. de Vaulx Lord of Gillesland and hard by the wall Burd Oswald Beneath which where that Picts wall passed over the river Irthing by an arched bridge was the station of the first band Aelia Dacica or of the Dacians the place is now named Willoford which the booke of Notice of Provinces and many altars bearing inscriptions to Iupiter Optimus Maximus reared by that Cohort here doe plentifully prove Of which I thought good to adde these unto the rest although time hath almost worne them out I. O. M. OH I. AEL DA C. C. A. GETA IRELSAVRNES I. O. M. CoH. I. AEL DAC C. P. STATU LoN GINUS TRIB PRO SALUTE D. N MAXjMIANO FOR CAE VA OAED LEG VI VIC P.F F. I. O. M. COHIAEL DAC TETRICIANORO C. P. LUTIC V S. DESIG NATUS TRIB I.O.M. COH I. AEL DAC GORD ANA. C. P EST I. O. M. H. I. AEL DAC C. PRAEE SI FLIUS FA S TRIB PETUO COS. The first Lord of Gillesland that hitherto I have read of was William Meschines the brother of Ralph Lord of Cumberland I meane not that William brother to Ranulph Earle of Chester from whom came Ranulph de Ruelent but the brother of Ralph yet could hee never wrest it wholly out of the Scots hands for Gill the sonne of Bueth held the greatest part of it by force and armes After his death King Henry the second gave it to Hubert de Vaulx or de Vallibus whose shield of Armes was Chequy Or Gueles His sonne Robert founded and endowed the Priory of Lanercost But the inheritance after a few yeeres was by marriage translated to the Moltons and from them by a daughter to Ranulph Lord Dacre whose line hath flourished unto our daies in very great honour Having now in some sort surveied the maritime coasts and more inward parts of Cumberland the side that lieth more Easterly being leane hungry and a wast remaineth to bee viewed and yet it sheweth nothing but the spring-head of South-Tine in a moorish place and an ancient Romane high-way eight ells broad paved with great stone commonly called Mayden Way which leadeth out of Westmorland and where the riveret Alon and the aforesaid South Tine meet together in one channell by the side of an hill of gentle descent there remaine yet the footings of a very great and ancient towne which was toward the North enclosed within a fourefold rampier
where it passeth over Eden From thence it runneth forth and hath the river Irthing beneath it crossing over Camberke a little brooke running crooked with many turnings in and out where are great tokens to be seene of a fortification After this having cut over the rivers Irthing and Poltrosse it entreth into Northumberland and among the mountaines hudled together goeth along by the side of the river which they call South-Tine without any interruption save only that it is divided by North-Tine where in ancient time there was a bridge over it as farre as to the German Ocean as I will shew in due place when I am come once into Northumberland Yet this admirable worke could not avert and keepe out the tempestuous stormes of forraine enemies But when the Romane armies were retired out of Britaine the Picts and Scots assaulting the wall upon the sudden with their engines and hooked weapons pluckt and puld downe the garrison souldiers brake through the fence and overranne Britaine far and neere being then disarmed and shaken with civill broiles and most miserably afflicted with extreme famine But the most wofull and lamentable misery of these heavie times Gildas a Britan who lived not long after pensilleth out lively in these words As the Romans were returning homeward there appear striving who could come first out of their Caroches in which they had passed over the vale Stitica like unto duskish swarmes of wormes comming forth of their little caves with most narrow holes at noone day in summer and when the heat of he sunne is at the highest a rabble of Scots and Picts in maners partly different but in one and the same greedy designe of bloodshed And having knowledge once that our friends and associates were retired home and had denied ever to returne again they with greater confidence and boldnesse than before time attempt to possesse themselves of all the North side and the utmost part of the land from out of the Inlanders hands as far as to the very wall Against these invasions there stands placed on high in a Keepe a lasie crew unable to fight unfit God he knowes for service trembling and quaking at the heart which night and day sate still as benummed and stirred not abroad Mean while the hooked engines of their naked and bareshanked enemies cease not wherewith the most miserable inhabitants were plucked downe from the walls and dashed against the hard ground This good yet did such an untimely death unto those that thus lost their lives that by so quicke a dispatch and end they were freed from the view of most piteous paines and imminent afflictions of their brethren and children What should I say more when they had left the Cities and high wall they were againe driven to flye and hide themselves and being thus dispersed in more desperate case they were than they had been before The enemies likewise presse still sorer upon them and semblably hasten bloody carnage and slaughters one in the necke of another And even as lambs are torn in pieces by butchers so are these lamentable inhabitants by the enemies insomuch as their abode and continuance together might be well compared to wild beasts For both they preyed one upon another and by robbing also forbare not the short pittance of food that the poorer sort of the inhabitants had for their owne small sustentation also these outward calamities were encreased with domesticall commotions so that by reason of so great robbing pilling and spoiling the whole countrey wanted the stay of all kind of food save onely that which they got by hunting to comfort their poor pining bodies But this is worth the observation that as by the wisdome of the Romans this wall was so built that it had two very great rivers neere to it on the inner side as it were for another defence namely Tine and Irthing that are divided one from the other with a very narrow parcell of ground So on the other side the barbarous people were so cunning that in the same place especially they made their first entrance betwixt these rivers where they might have free passage farther into the heart of the Province without hinderance of any river according as we will shew by and by in Northumberland The fabulous tales of the common people concerning this wall I doe wittingly and willingly overpasse Yet this one thing which I was enformed of by men of good credit I will not conceale from the Reader There continueth a setled perswasion among a great part of the people thereabout and the same received by tradition That the Roman souldiers of the marches did plant here every where in old time for their use certaine medicinable hearbs for to cure wounds whence it is that some Emperick practitioners of Chirurgery in Scotland flock hither every yeere in the beginning of summer to gather such Simples and wound-herbes the vertue whereof they highly commend as found by long experience and to be of singular efficacy OTTADINI AFter the Brigantes Ptolomee placeth those who according to the divers readings in Copies are called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI In steed of all which names I would if I durst presume so far with a very easie alteration substitute OTTATINI that it might signifie On the farther side of or above the river Tine And so verily would the name of the Inhabitants bee consonant with the position and site of the countrey For these are planted beyond Tine And the Welsh-Britans at this day call a country in Wales beyond the river Conwey Uch Conwey beyond the hils Uchmynith beyond the wood Uch-Coed beyond the river Gwyrway Uch-Gwyrway Neither can it be I assure you altogether absurd if after the same manner they tearmed this country beyond Tine Uch Tin whence the Romans may seeme to have framed this name OTTADINI by a word somewhat disjointed but more smooth and pleasanter to the eare And whereas Xiphilinus reporteth out of Dio that all the Britans that dwelt neere unto the wall which we spake of even now were called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or MAEATAE good reason it is that we should thinke these our Ottadini dwelling by the said wall were among those Maeatae who in that memorable revolt and rebellion of the Britans called in the Caledonians to assist them and take armes with them At which time Severus the Emperour commanded his souldiers peremptorily to kill all the Britans using these verses of Homer 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Let none scape cruell death Nor dint of sword no not the child unborne In mothers womb that lies his death is sworne But the tempestuous storme of this rebellion was calmed by the death of Severus who in his very preparation for warre died at Yorke Long after this Countrey seemeth to have beene a part of VALENTIA For so Theodosius called it in honour of Valentinian the Emperour after he had subdued the barbarous people
and recovered this tract or Province which before had beene lost But these ancient names were quite worne out of use in the English Saxon war and all the Countries lying North on the other side of the Arme of the sea called Humber began by a Saxon name to bee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of Northumberland which name notwithstanding being now cleane gone in the rest of the Shires remaineth still as it were surviving in Northumberland onely Which when that state or kingdome stood was knowne to bee a part of the Kingdome of Bernicia which had peculiar petty Kings and reached from the River TEES to Edenborough Frith NORTH-HUMBER-LAND NOrth-umber-land which the English Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 lieth after a sort enclosed in fashion of a Triangle but not with equall sides The South side is shut in with Derwent running into Tine and with Tine it selfe where it butteth upon the Bishoprick of Durham The East side the German sea lieth and beateth upon it But the West side which reacheth out from South-west to North-east is first parted from Cumber-land afterward with Cheviot and hills linked one to another and lastly with the river Twede it affronteth Scotland and so was the limit of both kingdomes over which were set in this countie two Governours the one called L. Warden of the middle Marches the other of the East marches The ground it selfe for the most part rough and hard to be manured seemeth to have hardened the inhabitants whom the Scots their neighbours also made more fierce and hardie while sometimes they keep them exercised in warres and other whiles in time of peace intermingle their manners among them so that by these meanes they are a most warlike nation and excellent good light-horsemen And whereas they addicted themselves as it were wholly to Mars and Armes there is not a man amongst them of the better sort that hath not his little tower or pile and so it was divided into a number of Baronies the Lords whereof in times past before King Edward the first his dayes went commonly under the name Barons although some of them were of no great living But a wise and politicke device this was of our Ancestours to cherish and maintaine martiall prowesse among them in the marches of the kingdome if it were nothing else but with an honourable bare title Howbeit this title came to nothing among them what time as under King Edward the first those onely began to enjoy the name and honour of Barons whom the Kings summoned unto the high Court of Parliament by speciall summons Toward the sea and Tine by diligence and good husbandrie it becommeth very fruitfull but elsewhere it is more barraine rough and as it were unmanurable And in many places those stones Lithanthraces which we call Sea-coales are digged up in great plentie to the great gaine of the inhabitants and commoditie of others The hithermore part bending toward the South-west and called Hexam-shire acknowledged a long time the Archbishop of Yorke for the Lord thereof and challenged unto it selfe by what right I know not the priviledge of a Countie Palatine But after it became of late annexed unto the crowne land upon an exchange made with Robert the Archbishop by authority of Parliament it was laied unto the countie of Northumberland that it should be subject to the same jurisdiction and in all causes have recourse unto the high Sheriffe thereof South Tine a river so called if wee may beleeve our Britans for that by reason of his narrow bankes hee is straight pent in for so signifieth Tin as they say in the British tongue having his spring head in Cumberland neere unto Alsten-more where there was an ancient copper mine holding on his course by Lambley sometime a Nunnerie built by the Lucies and now with floods for the most part undermined and fallen downe also by Fetherston-Haugh the seat of the ancient and well descended family of Fetherston when hee is come as farre as Bellister Castle turning Eastward runneth directly forward with the WALL which is in no place three miles distant from it toward the North. For the Wall having left Cumberland behind it and crossed over the Irthing passed likewise with an arch over the swift riveret Poltrosse where I saw within the wall high mounts of earth cast up as it were to over look and discover the country Neer this standeth Thirl-wale Castle which is not great but strongly built yet it gave both habitation and surname to the ancient and noble family which was first called Wade where the Picts and Scottish made their passage into the Province between Irthing and Tine and that verily upon good forecast in that place where they had free entrance by reason of no river in their way into the inmore parts of England But you shall better understand this and the name of the place out of John Fordon the Scottish Historian whose words it will not bee amisse as I thinke to set downe here because the booke is not everie where to bee had The Scots saith hee when by conquest they had gotten the possession of those countries which are on this side the wall toward Scotland began to inhabite them and having of a suddaine raised a sort of the Country people with their mattockes pickaxes rakes three tined forkes and spades make wide gappes and a number of holes in it by which breaches they might passe in out readily at their pleasure Of those holes therefore this mound of the wall afterward took the name Thirlwall which it hath at this day in this place for in the English tongue that very place is called Thirlwall which is as much as a wall pierced through Then saw we Blenkensop which gave name unto a generous family as also their habitation in a right pleasant country Southward which was part of the Baronie of Sir Nicholas of Bolteby a Baron of renowne in the time of King Edward the first When you are past Thirlwall the said wall openeth it selfe unto the raging river Tippall where in the descent of an hill a little within the wall is to bee seene the ground worke of a Castle of the Romans in forme foure square everie side whereof taketh an hundred and fortie paces The verie foundations likewise of houses and trackes of streets still appeare most evidently to the beholders The Ranke-riders or taking men of the borders doe report that a great port-way paved with flint and bigge stone led from hence through wastes unto Maiden castle in Stanemore Certes it passed directly to Kirkby Thor whereof I spake A poore old woman that dwelt in a little poore cottage hard by shewed unto us an ancient little altar-stone in testimonie of some vow with this inscription unto VITIRINEUS a tutelar God as it seemed of the place DEO VITI RINE LIMEO ROV P. L. M. This place is now named Caer Vorran what
place might still remaine entire In honour of Saint Oswald King they built a Chappell there And another in praise of him wrote in that unlearned age not unlearnedly thus Quis fuit Alcides quis Caesar Iulius aut quis Magnus Alexander Alcides se superasse Fertur Alexander mundum sed Iulius hostem Se simul Oswaldus mundum vicit hostem What was to Oswald Hercules What Iulius Caesar what Great Alexander Hercules is named much for that Himselfe he won Xander the world Iulius made foes to flye Oswald at once conquer'd himselfe the world and enemy Beneath Saint Oswalds both Tines meet in one after that South-Tine which keepeth just pace in parallel as it were with the wall about two miles from it hath passed by Langley Castle where sometimes under King John Sir Adam de Tindale had his Barony which afterwards came to Sir Nicolas Bolteby and of late belonged to the Percies and at Aidon runneth under the woodden weake bridge and shaking through the violence of the streame Tine by this time being now broader and broader continueth his course in one channell apace toward the Ocean by Hexham which Bede calleth Hangustald but the old English-Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 That this was named in the Romans time AXLELODUNUM where the first Cohort of the Spaniards had their station both the name implieth the high situation upon an hill answerable to the name when as the ancient Britans called an hill Dunum But as touching this heare what Richard Prior of this place saith who flourished 500. yeeres agoe Not farre from the river Tine Southward there standeth a towne now in these dayes verily but of meane bignesse and slenderly inhabited but in times past as the remaines of antiquity do beare witnesse very large and stately This place of the little river Hextold running downe by it and swelling otherwhiles like unto a flood with a swift streame is name Hextoldesham which town Etheldreda the wife of King Egfrid gave unto Saint Wilfrid in the yeere 675. that hee should exalt it with an Episcopall See who built there a Church that for the artificiall frame and passing beauty went beyond all the Minsters in England Take with you also that which William of Malmesbury wrote This was Crown-land when Wilfrid the Bishop exchanged with Queen Etheldreda other lands It was wonderfull to see what buildings were erected there with mighty high walls and how they were set out contrived with divers turning in out by winding staires all polished and garnished by the curious workmanship of Masons and Pargetters whom the hope of his liberality had allured from Rome so that these buildings carried a shew of the Romanes stately magnificence and stood very long struggling with time The foresaid King Egfrid placed an Episcopall See in this little City But that dignity after the eighth Bishop vanished cleane away whilest the Danish warres were at the hottest And so ever since it was counted onely a manour or Township belonging to the Archibishops of Yorke before the exchange made with King Henry the eighth wherby they resigned up their right This place was also renowned by reason of that bloudy battaile wherein John Nevill Marquesse Montacute encountred the leaders of the Lancastrian Faction with much courage and with greater successe put them to flight and therefore was created Earle of Northumberland by King Edward the fourth But now all the glory that it hath is in that ancient Abbey a part whereof is converted into a faire dwelling house belonging to Sir John Foster Knight As for the Church it standeth whole and sound save that the West end onely thereof is pulled downe and I assure you a right stately and sumptuous building it is within the quire whereof is to be seene an ancient tombe of a noble-man of that warlike family of the Umfranvils as appeareth by his Escutcheon of Armes lying with his legges acrosse After which fashion in those dayes were they onely enterred that I may note so much by the way who tooke upon them the crosse and were marked with the badge of the crosse for sacred warfare to recover the Holy land from the Mahometans and Turkes Hard by the East end also of this Church upon the brow of an hill are erected two most strong bulwarks of free stone which belong as I have heard unto the Archbishop of Yorke From hence we went Eastward and came to Dilston a mansion house of the Ratcliffes In old evidence it is found written Divelstone of a little river running into Tine which Bede called Divelesburn where as he writeth Oswald having the faith of Christ for his armour and defence in a set battaile slew Cedwalla the Britan that wicked and horrible Tyrant who had already slaine two Kings of Northumberland and depopulated the country all over On the other banke of Tine lieth CURIA OTTADINORUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention it may seeme by the distance thereof to bee CORSTOPITUM in Antonine called at this day of the bridg Corbridge in Hovedons Annals Corobridge and in Henry of Huntingdon Cure It can shew nothing now but a Church and a little tower hard by which the Vicars of the Church built and wherein they dwell Howbeit there remaine still sundry reliques of antique worke among which King John searched for ancient treasure supposed to have beene buried there But he was overtaken in his owne vanity and deceived of his great expectation no lesse than Nero when hee searched for the hidden wealth of Dido at Carthage For nothing found hee but stones signed with brasse iron and lead But whoso shall see the heap of rubbish that lieth thereby and is called Colecester will soon say it was some hold of a Romane garrison Forward still upon the same banke wee saw Biwell a proper faire castle which in the reigne of King John was the Barony of Sir Hugh Balliol for which he did owe to the Ward of Newcastle upon Tine thirty Knights service Beneath this Castle there is a very goodly Weare for the catching of Salmons and two solid piles of most firme stone which in times past supported the bridge stand up in the midst of the river From hence Tine running underneath looketh up to Prudhow Castle in ancient bookes written Prodhow situate very pleasantly upon the ridge of an hill This may I ghesse to have beene PROTOLITIA which also is called PROCOLITIA the station of the first band of the Batavians till time tell me more and instruct mee better But it is famous in this regard that in King Henry the second his dayes it valiantly gave the check unto William King of Scots laying siege unto it when as William of Newborrough writeth hee had taken great paines to no purpose to his losse and hurt Afterwards it belonged to the Umfranvils men of great estimation among whom Sir Gilbert Umfranvill flourishing in the profession of armes in right of his wife attained the title of Earle
of Anguish in Scotland in the reign of K. Edward the first and left that honour to his posterity But Eleanor daughter to the sister and heire of the last Earle was married at length into the family of Talebois and afterward this castle by the Princes bountifull gift came to the Duke of Bedford But to retire to the Wall Beyond Saint Oswalds there are seene in the wall the foundations of two sorts which they call Castle-steeds then a place named Portgate where there stood a gate in the wall as may appeare by the word that in both languages importeth as much Beneath this more within the country is Halton-Hall where flourisheth the family of the Carnabies in great name for their antiquity and military prowesse neere unto which is seated Aidon castle sometimes part of the Barony of that Hugh Balliol before named But for as much as many places about the wall carry this name Aidon and the very same signifieth a Militare Wing or a troupe of horsemen in the British tongue of which sort there were many wings placed along the Wall as plainely appeareth by the booke of Notices in their stations I would have the reader throughly to consider whether this name was not thereupon imposed upon these places like as Leon upon those townes where the Legions had their standing campe Well hard by there was digged up the fragment of an antique stone wherein is the expresse portrait or image of a man lying in bed leaning upon his left hand and with the right touching his right knee with these inscriptions NORICI AN. XXX ESSOIRUS MAGNUS FRATER EJUS DUPL. ALAE SABINIANAE M. MARI US VELLI ALONG US A QUI SHANC POSUIT V. S. L. M. Then the river Pont having his spring head more outwardly and running downe neere to Fenwick-Hall the dwelling house of the worthy and martiall family of the Fenwickes for certaine miles together gardeth the wall and upon his banke had for a defence in garison the first Cohort of the Cornavii at a place called PONS AELII built as it seemeth by Aelius Hadrianus the Emperor now called Pont-eland at which King Henry the third in the yeere 1244. concluded a peace and neere unto this the first Cohort of the Tungri had their abode at Borwick which in the Notice of Provinces is called BORCOVICUS From Port-gate the wall runneth along to Waltowne which seeing the signification accordeth so well with the name and that it standeth twelve miles from the East sea I beleeve verily it is the same royall town which Bede called ADMURUM wherein Segbert King of the East Saxons was by the hands of Finanus baptized and received into the Church of Christ. Neere unto this was a fortification called Old Winchester I would gladly take it to be that VINDOLANA which that Booke of Notice so often cited recordeth to have beene the Frontier-station in times past of the fourth Cohort of the Gaules And then have yee Rouchester where we beheld very plainly the expresse footings in form four square of a garison Castle that joined hard to the wall Neere unto it Headon sheweth it selfe which was part of the Barony of Sir Hugh de Bolebec who fetched his descent by his mother from the noble Barons of Mont-Fichet and had issue none but daughters matched in wedlock with Ralph Lord Greistock I. Lovel Huntercomb and Corbet Now where the wall and Tine almost meet together New-Castle sheweth it selfe gloriously the very eye of all the townes in these parts ennobled by a notable haven which Tine maketh being of that depth that it beareth very tall ships and so defendenth them that they can neither easily bee tossed with tempests nor driven upon shallowes and shelves It is situate on the rising of an hill very uneven upon the North-banke of the river which hath a passing faire bridge over it On the left hand whereof standeth the Castle after that a steepe and upright pitch of an hill riseth on the right hand you have the Mercat place and the better part of the City in regard of faire buildings From whence the ascent is not easie to the upper part which is larger by farre It is adorned with soure Churches and fortified with most strong walls that have eight gates in them with many towres what it was in old time it is not knowne I would soone deeme it to have beene GABROSENTUM considering that Gates-head the suburbe as it were thereof doth in the owne proper signification expresse that British name Gabrosentum derived from Goates as hath been said before The Notice also of Provinces placeth Gabrosentum and the second Cohort of the Thracians in it within the range of the wall And most certaine it is that both the Rampier and the Wall went through this City and at Pandon gate there remaineth as it is thought one of the turrets of that wall Surely for workmanship and fashion it is different from the other Moreover whereas it was named before the Conquest Monk-chester because it was as it seemeth in the possession of Monkes this addition Chester which signifieth a place fortified implyeth that it was anciently a place of strength But after the Conquest of the New castle which Robert the sonne of William the Conqueror built out of the ground it got this new name New-castle and by little and little encreased marveilously in wealth partly by entercourse of trafficke with the Germans and partly by carrying out sea-coales wherewith this country aboundeth both into forraine Countries and also into other parts of England In the reigne of Edward the first a rich man chanced to bee haled way prisoner by the Scottish out of the middle of the towne who after hee had ransomed himselfe with a great summe of money began with all speed to fortifie the same and the rest of the inhabitants moved by his example finished the worke and compassed it with faire strong walls Since which time it hath with security avoided the force and threats of the enemies and robbers which swarmed all over the country and withall fell to trading merchandise so freshly that for quick commerce wealth it became in very flourishing estate in which regard King Richard the second granted that a sword should bee carried before the Maior and King Henry the sixth made it a County incorporate by it selfe It is distant from the first Meridian or West line 21. degrees and 30. minutes and from the Aequinoctiall line toward the North pole 34. degrees and 57. minutes As touching the suburbs of Gateshead which is conjoyned to New-castle with a faire bridge over the river and appertaineth to the Bishops of Durham I have already written Now in regard of the site of New-castle and the abundance of sea-cole vented thence unto which a great part of England and the Low Countries of Germanie are beholden for their good fires read these verses of Master John Ionston out of his Poem of the Cities of
matters In criminall causes the Kings chiefe Justice holdeth his Court for the most part at Edenburgh which office the Earles of Argile have executed now for some yeeres And he doth depute two or three Lawyers who have the hearing and deciding of capitall actions concerning life and death or of such as inferre losse of limbs or of all goods In this Court the Defendant is permitted yea in case of high treason to entertaine a Counsellor or Advocate to pleade his cause Moreover in criminall matters there are sometimes by vertue of the Kings commission and authoritie Justices appointed for the deciding of this or that particular cause Also the Sheriffes in their territories and Magistrates in some Burghs may sit in judgement of man-slaughter in case the man-slayer be taken within 24. houres after the deed committed and being found guiltie by a Jurie put him to death But if that time be once overpast the cause is referred and put over to the Kings Iustice or his Deputies The same priviledge also some of the Nobilitie and Gentrie enjoy against theeves taken within their owne jurisdictions There bee likewise that have such Roialties as that in criminall causes they may exercise a jurisdiction within their owne limits and in some cases recall those that dwell within their owne limits and liberties from the Kings Justice howbeit with a caution and proviso interposed That they judge according to Law Thus much briefly have I put downe as one that hath but sleightly looked into these matters yet by the information of the judicious Knight Sir Alexander Hay his Majesties Secretarie for that kingdome who hath therein given me good light But as touching SCOTLAND what a noble countrey it is and what men it breedeth as sometimes the Geographer wrote of Britaine there will within a while more certaine and more evident matter be delivered since that most high and mightie Prince hath set it open now for us which had so long time beene shut from us Meane while I will come unto the description of places the project that I entended especially GADENI or LADENI UPon the Ottadini or Northumberland bordered as next neighbours the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is GADENI who also by the inversion or turning of one letter upside downe are called in some Copies of Ptolomee LADENI seated in that countrey which lieth betweene the mouth of the river Twede and Edenburgh Forth and is at this day divided into many petty Countries the chiefe whereof are Teifidale Twedale Merch and Lothien in Latine Lodeneium under which one generall name alone the Writers of the middle time comprised all the rest TEIFIDALE TEifidale that is to say the Vale by the river Teifie or Teviat lying next unto England among the edges of high craggie hills is inhabited by a warlike nation which by reason of so many encounters in foregoing ages betweene Scottish and English are alwaies most readie for service and sudden invasions The first place among these that wee meet with is Iedburgh a Burrough well inhabited and frequented standing neere unto the confluence of Teifie and Ied whereof it took the name also Mailros a very ancient Monastery wherein at the beginning of our Church were cloistered Monkes of that ancient order and institution that gave themselves to prayer and with their hand-labour earned their living which holy King David restored and replenished with Cistertian Monkes And more Eastward where Twede and Teifie joine in one streame Rosburg sheweth it selfe called also Roxburg and in old time MARCHIDUN because it was a towne in the Marches where stands a Castle that for naturall situation and towred fortifications was in times past exceeding strong Which being surprised and held by the English whiles James the second King of Scots encircled it with a siege hee was by a peece of a great Ordnance that brake slaine untimely in the very floure of his youth a Prince much missed and lamented of his Subjects As for the castle it was yeelded and being then for the most part of it layed even with the ground is now in a manner quite vanished and not to bee seene The territory adjoyning called of it the Sherifdome of Roxburg hath one hereditary Sheriffe out of the family of the Douglasses who is usually called the Sheriffe of Teviot Dale And now hath Roxburg also a Baron Robert Kerr through the favour of King James the sixth out of the family of the Kerrs a famous house and spred into a number of branches as any one in that tract out of which the Fernhersts and others inured in martiall feats have been of great name Twede aforesaid runneth through the middest of a Dale taking name of it replenished with sheepe that beare wooll of great request A very goodly river this is which springing more inwardly Eastward after it hath passed as it were in a streight channell by Drimlar Castle by Peblis a mercate towne which hath for the Sheriff thereof Baron Zeister like as Selkirk hard by hath another out of the family of Murray of Fallohill entertaineth Lauder a riveret at which appeareth Lauder together with Thirlestan where stands a very faire house of Sir John Mettellan late Chancellor of Scotland whom for his singular wisdome King James the sixth created Baron of Thirlestan Then Twede beneath Roxburg augmented with the river of Teviot resorting unto him watereth the Sherifdome of Berwick throughout a great part whereof is possessed by the Humes wherein the chiefe man of that family exerciseth now the jurisdiction of a Sheriffe and so passeth under Berwick the strongest towne of Britain whereof I have spoken already where hee is exceeding full of Salmons and so falleth into the sea MERCHIA MERCH or MERS MERCH which is next and so named because it is a march country lyeth wholly upon the German sea In this first Hume Castle sheweth it selfe the ancient possession of the Lords of Home or Hume who being descended from the family of the Earles of Merch are growne to be a noble and faire spred family out of which Alexander Hume who before was the first Baron of Scotland and Sheriff of Berwick was of late advanced by James King of great Britaine to the title of Earle Hume Neere unto which lieth Kelso famous sometime for the monastery which with thirteen others King David the first of that name built out of the ground for the propagation of Gods glory but to the great empairing of the Crowne land Then is to be seene Coldingham which Bede calleth the City Coldana and the City of Coludum haply COLANIA mentioned by Ptolomee a place consecrated many ages since unto professed Virgins or Nunnes whose chastity is recorded in ancient bookes For that they together with Ebba their Prioresse cut off their owne noses and lips choosing rather to preserve their virginity from the Danes than their beauty and favour and yet for all that the Danes burnt their monasterie and them withall Hard by is Fast-castle a castle of
the Lords Humes so called for their firmnesse and strength thereof at the Promontory of the said Saint Ebbe who being the daughter of Edilfria King of Northumberland when her Father was taken prisoner got hold of a boat in Humber and passing along the raging Ocean landed here in safety became renowned for her sanctimony and left her name unto the place But this Merch is mentioned in the Historiographers a great deale more for the Earles thereof than for any places therein who for martiall prowesse were highly renowned and descended from Gospatricke Earle of Northumberland whom after he was fled from William Conqueror of England Malcom Canmor that is With the great head King of Scotland entertained enriched him with the castle of Dunbar and honoured with the Earldome of Merch. Whose posterity besides other goodly and faire lands in Scotland held as appeareth plainly in an old Inquisition the Barony of Bengeley in Northumberland that they should be Inborow and Utborow betweene England and Scotland What the meaning should be of these tearmes let others ghesse what my conjecture is I have said already In the reigne of King James the first George de Dunbar Earle of Merch by authority of Parliament for his Fathers rebellion lost the Propriety and possession of the Earledome of Merch and the Seignorie of Dunbar And when as hee proved by good evidences and writings brought forth that his father had beene pardoned for that fault by the Regents of the Kingdome he was answered againe that it was not in the Regents power to pardon an offence against the State and that it was expressely provided by the Lawes that children should undergoe punishment for their fathers transgressions to the end that being thus heires to their fathers rashnesse as they are to their goods and lands they should not at any time in the haughty pride of their owne power plot any treason against Prince or country This title of Earle of March among other honourable titles was given afterward to Alexander Duke of Albany and by him forfaited And in our remembrance this title of honour was revived againe in Robert the third brother of Mathew Earle of Lennox who being of a Bishop of Cathanes made Earle of Lennox resigned up that title soone after unto his nephew then created Duke of Lennox and he himselfe in lieu thereof received of the King the name and stile of the Earle of Merch. LAUDEN or LOTHIEN LOTHIEN which is also called Lauden named in times past of the Picts Pictland shooteth out along from Merch unto the Scottish sea or the Forth having many hils in it and little wood but for fruitfull corn-fields for courtesie also and civility of manners commended above all other countries of Scotland About the yeere of our salvation 873. Eadgar King of England betweene whom and Keneth the third King of Scots there was a great knot of alliance against the Danes common enemies to them both resigned up his right unto him in this Lothien as Matthew the Flour-gatherer witnesseth and to winne his heart the more unto him He gave unto him many mansions in the way wherein both he and his successours in their comming unto the Kings of England and in returne homeward might be lodged which unto the time of K. Henry the second continued in the hands of the Kings of Scotland In this Lothien the first place that offereth it selfe unto our sight upon the sea side is Dunbar a passing strong castle in old time and the seat of the Earles of Merch aforesaid who thereupon on were called Earles of Dunbar A Peece many a time wonne by English and as often recovered by the Scottish But in the yeere 1567. by authority of the States in Parliament it was demolished because it should not be an hold and place of refuge for rebels But James King of great Britain conferred the title and honour of Earle of Dunbar upon Sir George Hume for his approved fidelity whom he had created before Baron Hume of Barwick to him his heires and assignes Hard by Tine a little river after it hath runne a short course falleth into the sea neere unto the spring-head whereof standeth Zeister which hath his Baron out of the family of the Haies Earles of Aroll who also is by inheritance Sheriffe of the little territory of Twedall or Peblis By the same riveret some few miles higher is seated Hadington or Hadina in a wide and broad plaine which towne the English fortified with a deepe and large ditch with a mure or rampire also without foure square and with foure bulwarkes at the corners and with as many other at the inner wall and Sir Iames Wilford an Englishman valiantly defended it against Dessie the Frenchman who with ten thousand French and Dutch together fiercely assaulted it untill that by reason of the plague which grew hot among the garrison souldiers Henry Earle of Rutland comming with a royall army raised the siege removed the French and having laid the munitions levell conducted the English home And now of late King James the sixth hath ranged Sir Iohn Ramsey among the Nobles of Scotland with title and honour of Vicount Hadington for his faithfull valour as whose RIGHT HAND was the DEFENDER OF PRINCE AND COUNTREY in that most wicked conspiracy of the Gowries against the Kings person Touching this Hadington thus hath Master I. Ionston versified Planities praetensa jacet prope flumina Tinae Fluminiâ— arguti clauditur ista sinu Vulcani Martis quae passa incendia fati Ingemit alterno vulnere fracta vices Nunc tandem sapit icta Dei praecepta secuta Praesidio gaudet jam potiore Poli. Before it lies a spacious plaine the Tine his streame hard by In bosome of that river shrill this towne enclos'd doth lie Which having suffered grievous smart of fire and sword by turnes Grones under these misfortunes much and for her losses mournes But now at length selfe-harmes have made it wise and by Gods lore Directed helpe it hath from heaven which steedeth it much more Within a little of Hadington standeth Athelstanford so called of Athelstane a chiefe leader of the English slaine there with his men about the yeere 815. But that he should be that warlike Athelstane which was King of the West-Saxons both the account of the times and his owne death doe manifestly controlle it Above the mouth of this Tine in the very bending of the shore standeth Tantallon Castle from whence Archibald Douglas Earle of Angus wrought James the fifth King of Scots much teene and trouble Here by retiring backe of the shores on both sides is roome made for a most noble arme of the sea and the same well furnished with Ilands which by reason of many rivers encountring it by the way and the tides of the surging sea together spreadeth exceeding broad Ptolomee calleth it BODERIA Tacitus BODOTRIA of the depth as I guesse the Scots The Forth and Frith we Edenburgh Frith others
runneth out far and wide toward the West between the sea and Dunbritain Frith or Clyds-forth yet so indented and hollowed with nookes and creekes that here and there it is drawne into a narrow roome and then againe in the verie utmost skirt it openeth and spreadeth it selfe broad at more libertie whereupon some have called it the CHERSOMESUS that is The Biland of the NOVANTES But at this day their countrey containeth Galloway Carick Kyle and Cunningham Galloway in the Latine Writers of the middle time Gaelwallia and Gallovidia so called of the Irish who in times past dwelt there and terme themselves short in their owne language Gael is a countrey rising up everie where with bills that are better for feeding of cattell than bearing of corne the inhabitants practice fishing as well within the sea lying round about them as in little rivers and the Loches or meeres in everie place standing full of water at the foot of the hills out of which in September they take in Weeles and Weere-ners an incredible number of most sweet and favourite eeles whereby the make no lesse gain than others do by their little nagges which for being well limmed fast knit and strongly made for to endure travaile are much in request and bought from hence Among these the first place that offereth itselfe by the river DEA mentioned in Prolomee which keeping the name still full and whole they call d ee is Kircoubright the most commodious port of this coast the second Stewartie of Scotland which belongeth also to the Maxwels then Cardines a sort set upon a craggie and high rocke by the river Fleet and fensed with strong walls Neere unto it the river Ken corruptly read in Ptolomee IENA runneth into the sea after it is Wigton an haven towne with a narrow entrance unto it between the two rivers Bluidnoo and Crea which also is counted a Sheriffdome over which Agnew is Sheriffe In times past it had for Earle Archibald Douglasse renowned in the French warre and at this day by the favour of King James the sixth John Lord Fleming who deriveth his pedegree from the ancient Earles of Wigton Neere unto this Ptolomee placed the Citie LEUCOPIBIA which I know not to say truth where to seeke Yet the place requireth that it should be that Episcopall seat of Ninian which Bede calleth Candida Casa and the English and Scottish in the verie same sense whit-berne what say you then if Ptolomee after his manner translated that name in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is white-houses in stead whereof the Transcribers have thrust upon us Leucopibia which the Britans tearmed Candida Casa In this place Ninia or Ninian the Britan an holy man the first that instructed the South-Picts in Christian saith in the reigne of the Emperour Theodofius the younger had his seat and built a Church consecrated to the memorie of Saint Martin after a manner unusuall among the Britans as Bede saith who wrote that the English in his time held this country and when the number of the faithfull Christians multiplied an Episcopall See was erected at this Candida Casa A little higher there is a Bi-land having the sea insinuating it selfe on both sides with two Bayes that by a narrow neck it is adjoined to the firme land and this is properly called CHERSONESUS and PROMONTORIUM NOVANTUM commonly the Mull of Galloway Beyond this Northward there is a Bay taking a great compasse and full of Ilands into which very many rivers on everie side doe out-lade themselves But first of all from the verie cape or top of the Promontarie is ABRAVANUS which being set little out of his own place is so called of Ptolomee for Aber-Ruanus that is The mouth of Ruan For at this day that river is named Rian and the lake out of which it floweth Logh-Rian exceeding full of Herrings and Stone-fishes This Galloway had in times past Princes and Lords over it of whom the first recorded in Chronicles was Fergus in the reigne of Henrie the first King of England who gave for his Armes A Lion rampant Arg crowned Or in a shield Azur who after many troubles that he had stirred was driven to this exigent by King Malcolm that he gave his sonne Ucthred to the King for an hostage and himselfe wearie of this world tooke the habit of a Chanon at Holy Rood house in Edenburgh As for Ucthred Gilbert his younger brother tooke him prisoner in battaile and when hee had cut out his tongue and plucked his eyes forth of his head he cruelly bereaved him both of life and inheritance But within some few yeeres when Gilbert was dead Ucthreds sonne recovered his fathers inheritance who of a sister of William Morvill Constable of Scotland begat Alan Lord of Galloway and Constable of Scotland This Alan by Margaret the eldest daughter of David Earle of Huntingdon had Dervolgilda wife to Iohn Balliol and the mother of John Balliol King of Scotland who contended with Robert Brus for the Kingdome of Scotland and by a former wife as it seemeth hee had Helen married to Roger Quincy Earle of Winchester who thereby was Constable of Scotland like as William Ferrars of Groby the Nephew of the said Roger by a daughter and one of the heires But these Englishmen soone lost their inheritance in Scotland as also the dignitie of Constable which the Comnins Earles of Bucquan descended likewise from a daughter of Roger Quincie obtained until it was translated unto the Earls of Arroll But the title of the Lords of Galloway fell afterward to the family of the Douglasses CARRICTA CARRICT NOw followeth Carrict upon Dunbritain Frith faire to be seene with fresh pastures supplyed both by land and sea with commodities abundantly In this province Ptolomee placed RERIGONIUM a Creeke and RERIGONIUM a Towne For which BERIGONIUM is read in a verie ancient copie of Ptolomee printed at Rome in the yeere 1480. so that wee cannot but verily thinke it was that which now is called Bargeney A Lord it hath out of the family of the Kennedies which came forth of Ireland in the reigne of Robert Brus and is in this tract of high birth spread into many branches and of great power The chiefe of which linage is Earle of Cassile for this is the name of a Castle wherein he dwelleth by the river Dun upon the banke whereof he hath also another Castle named Dunnur and he is the hereditarie Bailiffe of this Countrey For this Carrict together with Kyle and Cunningham are counted the three Baillerries of Scotland because they that governe these with an ordinarie power and jurisdiction are called Ballives by a tearme that came up in the middle times and among the Greeks Sicilians and Frenchmen signifieth a Conservatour or Protector But in the age aforegoing Carrict had Earles for to say nothing of Gilberts of Galloway sonne unto whom King William gave all Carrict to bee possessed for
tongue the Isle of Masses hereby may bee remembred when as it was a most famous Abbey of the order of Saint Augustin founded by the Earle of Strathern about the yeere 1200. When Ern hath joined his water with Tau in one streame so that Tau is now become more spatious hee looketh up to Aberneth seated upon his banke the royall seat in old time of the Picts and a well peopled Citie which as we read in an ancient fragment Nectane King of the Picts gave unto God and S. Brigide untill the day of Doom together with the bounds thereof which lye from a stone in Abertrent unto a stone nigh to Carfull that is Loghfoll and from thence as farre as to Ethan But long after it became the possession of the Douglasses Earles of Anguse who are called Lords of Aberneth and there some of them lye enterred The first Earle of Strathern that I read of was Malisse who in the time of King Henrie the third of England married one of the heires of Robert Muschamp a potent Baron of England Long afterward Robert Stewart in the yeere 1380. Then David a younger sonne of King Robert the second whose onely daughter given in marriage to Patricke Graham begat Mailise or Melisse Graham from whom King James the first tooke away the Earledome as escheated after that he understood out of the Records of the Kingdome that it was given unto his mothers grandfather and the heires males of his bodie This territorie as also that of Menteith adjoining the Barons Dromund governe hereditarily by Seneschals authority as their Stewarties Menteith hath the name of Teith a river which also they call Taich and thereof this little province they tearme in Latin Taichia upon the banke of which lieth the Bishopricke of Dunblan which King David the first of that name erected At Kirkbird that is Saint Brigids Church the Earles of Menteith have their principall house or Honour as also the Earles of Montrosse comming from the same stocke at Kin-Kardin not farre off This Menteith reacheth as I have heard unto the mountaines that enclose the East side of the Logh or Lake Lomund The ancient Earles of Menteith were of the family of Cumen which in times past being the most spred mightiest house of all Scotland was ruinated with the over-weight and sway thereof but the latter Earles were of the Grahams line ever since that Sir Mailise Graham attained to the honour of an Earle ARGATHELIA OR ARGILE BEyond the Lake Lomund and the West part of Lennox there spreadeth it selfe neere unto Dunbriton Forth the large countrey called Argathelia Argadia in Latin but commonly ARGILE more truely Argathel and Ar-Gwithil that is Neere unto the Irish or as old writings have it The edge or border of Ireland For it lyeth toward Ireland the inhabitants whereof the Britans tearme Gwithil and Gaothel The countrey runneth out in length and breadth all mangled with fishfull pooles and in some places with rising mountaines very commodious for feeding of cattell in which also there range up and downe wilde kine and red Deere but along the shore it is more unpleasant in sight what with rockes and what with blackish barraine mountaines In this part as Bede writeth Britain received after the Britans and Picts a third nation of Scots in that countrey where the Picts inhabited who comming out of Ireland under the leading of Reuda either through friendship or by dint of sword planted here their seat amongst them which they still hold Of which their leader they are to this very day called Dalreudini for in their language Dal signifieth a part And a little after Ireland saith hee is the proper Countrey of the Scots for being departed out of it they added unto the Britans and Picts a third nation in Britaine And there is a very great Bay or arme of the sea that in old time severed the nation of the Britans from the Picts which from the West breaketh a great way into the land where standeth the strongest Citie of all the Britans even to this day called Alchith In the North part of which Bay the Scots aforesaid when they came got themselves a place to inhabite Of that name Dalreudin no remaines at all to my knowledge are now extant neither finde wee any thing thereof in Writers unlesse it bee the same that Dalrieta For in an old Pamphlet touching the division of Albanie wee read of one Kinnadie who for certaine was a King of Scots and subdued the Picts these very words Kinnadie two yeeres before hee came into Pictavia for so it calleth the countrey of the Picts entred upon the Kingdome of Dalrieta Also in an historie of later time there is mention made of Dalrea in some place of this tract where King Robert Brus fought a field unfortunately That Justice should be ministred unto this Province by Justices Itinerant at Perth whensoever it pleased the King King James the fourth by authoritie of the States of the Kingdome enacted a law But the Earles themselves have in some cases their roialties as being men of very great command and authoritie followed with a mightie traine of retainers and dependants who derive their race from the ancient Princes and Potentates of Argile by an infinite descent of Ancestours and from their castle Cambell tooke their surname but the honour and title of Earle was given unto them by King James the second who as it is recorded invested Colin Lord Cambell Earle of Argile in regard of his owne vertue and the worth of his family Whose heires and successours standing in the gracious favour of the Kings have bin Lords of Lorn and a good while Generall Justices of the Kingdome of Scotland or as they use to speake Iustices ordained in Generall and Great Masters of the Kings royall household CANTIRE LOgh Fin a lake breeding such store of herrings at a certaine due season as it is wonderfull severeth Argile from a Promontorie which for thirtie miles together growing still toward a sharpe point thrusteth it selfe forth with so great a desire toward Ireland betwixt which and it there is a narrow sea scarce thirteene miles over as if it would conjoine it selfe Ptolomee termeth this the Promontorie EPIDIORUM betweene which name and the Islands EBUDAE lying over against it there is in my conceit some affinitie At this day it is called in the Irish tongue which they speake in all this tract CAN-TYRE that is The lands Head inhabited by the Mac-Conells a family that here swayeth much howbeit at the pleasure and dispose of the Earle of Argile yea and otherwhiles they make out their light pinnaces and gallies for Ireland to raise booties and pillage who also hold in possession those little provinces of Ireland which they call Glines and Rowts This Promontorie lyeth annexed to Knapdale by so thin a necke as being scarce a mile broad and the same all sandie that the mariners finde it the neerer
way to convey their small vessels over it by land Which I hope a man may sooner beleeve than that the Argonauts laid their great ship Argos upon their shoulders and so carried it along with them five hundred miles from Aemonia unto the shores of Thessalia LORN SOmewhat higher toward the North lyeth LORN bearing the best kinde of barley in great plentie and divided with Leaue a vast and huge lake by which standeth Berogomum a castle in which sometime was kept the Court of Justice or Session and not farre from it Dunstafag that is Stephens Mount the Kings house in times past above which Logh Aber a Lake insinuating it selfe from out of the Westerne sea windeth it selfe so farre within land that it had conflowed together with Nesse another Lake running into the East sea but that certaine mountaines betweene kept them with a verie little partition asunder The chiefest place of name in this tract is Tarbar in Logh Kinkeran where King James the fourth ordained a Justice and Sheriffe to administer justice unto the Inhabitants of the out Islands These countries and those beyond them in the yeere of our Lords Incarnation 655. the Picts held whom Bede calleth the Northern Picts where hee reporteth that in the said yeere Columbane a Priest and Abbat famous for his Monkish profession and life came out of Ireland into Britaine to instruct these in Christian religion that by meanes of the high rough ridges of the mountaines were sequestred from the Southerne countries of the Picts and that they in lieu of a reward allowed unto him the Iland Hii over against them now called I-Comb-Kill of which more in place convenient The Lords of Lorna in the age aforegoing were the Stewarts but now by reason of a female their heire the Earles of Argile who use this title in their honourable stile BRAID ALBIN or ALBANY MOre inwardly where the uninhabitable loftie and rugged ridges of the Mountaine Grampius begin a little to slope and settle downeward is seated BRAID-ALBIN that is The highest part of Scotland for they that are the true and right Scots indeed call Scotland in their mother tongue Albin like as that part where it mounteth up highest Drum Albin that is the Ridge of Scotland But in an old booke it is read Brun Albin where wee finde this written Fergus filius Eric c. that is Fergus the sonne of Eric was the first of the seed or line of Chonare that entred upon the Kingdome of Albanie from Brun-Albain unto the Irish sea and Inch-Gall And after him the Kings descended from the seed or race of Fergus reigned in Brun-Albain or Brunhere unto Alpin the sonne of Eochall But this Albanie is better knowne for the Dukes thereof than for any good gifts that the soile yeeldeth The first Duke of Albanie that I read of was Robert Earle of Fife whom his brother King Robert the third of that name advanced to that honour yet he ungratefull person that he was pricked on with the spirit of ambition famished to death his sonne David that was heire to the crown But the punishment due for this wicked fact which himselfe by the long-sufferance of God felt not his son Mordac the second Duke of Albanie suffered most grievously being condemned for treason and beheaded when hee had seene his two sonnes the day before executed in the same manner The third Duke of Albanie was Alexander second sonne to King James the second who being Regent of the Kingdome Earle of March Marr and Garioth Lord of Annandale and of Man was by his own brother King James the third outlawed and after hee had beene turmoiled with many troubles in the end as hee stood by to behold a Justs and Tourneament in Paris chanced to bee wounded with a peece of a shattered launce and so died His sonne John the fourth Duke of Albanie Regent likewise and made Tutour to King James the fifth taking contentment in the pleasant delights of the French Court after hee had wedded there the daughter and one of the heires of John Earle of Auverne and Lauragveze died there without issue Whom in a respective reverence to the bloud royall of the Scots Francis the first King of France gave thus much honour unto as that hee allowed him place betweene the Archbishop of Langres and the Duke of Alenson Peeres of France After his death there was no Duke of Albanie untill that Queene Marie in our memorie conferred this title upon Henrie Lord Darly whom within some few daies after shee made her husband like as King James the sixth granted the same unto his owne second sonne Charles being an Infant who is now Duke of Yorke There inhabite these regions a kinde of people rude warlike readie to fight querulous and mischievous they bee commonly tearmed High-landmen who being in deed the right progenie of the ancient Scots speak Irish call themselves Albinich their bodies be firmely made and well compact able withall and strong nimble of foot high minded inbread and nuzzeled in warlike exercises or robberies rather and upon a deadly feud and hatred most forward and desperate to take revenge They goe attired Irish-like in stript or streaked mantles of divers colours wearing thicke and long glibbes of haire living by hunting fishing fowling and stealing In the warre their armour is an head-peece or Morion of iron and an habergeon or coat of maile their weapons bee bowes barbed or hooked arrowes and broad backe-swords and being divided by certaine families or kinreds which they terme Clannes they commit such cruell outrages what with robbing spoiling and killing that their savage crueltie hath forced a law to bee enacted whereby it is lawfull That if any person out of any one Clanne or kinred of theirs hath trespassed ought and done harme whosoever of that Clanne or linage chance to bee taken he shall either make amends for the harmes or else suffer death for it when as the whole Clan commonly beareth feud for any hurt received by any one member thereof by execution of lawes order of justice or otherwise PERTHIA OR PERTH Sheriffdome OUt of the very bosome of Mountaines of Albany Tau the greatest river of all Scotland issueth and first runneth amaine through the fields untill that spreading broad into a lake full of Islands hee restraineth and keepeth in his course Then gathering himselfe narrow within his bankes into a channell and watering Perth a large plentifull and rich countrey he taketh in unto him Amund a small river comming out of Athol This Athol that I may digresse a little out of my way is infamous for witches and wicked women the countrey otherwise fertile enough hath vallies bespread with forrests namely where that WOOD CALEDONIA dreadfull to see to for the sundrie turnings and windings in and out therein for the hideous horrour of dark shades for the burrowes and dennes of wild bulls with thicke manes whereof I made mention heretofore
shooteth into the deepe sea and is to bee seene a farre off Hard by South Eske voideth it selfe into the Ocean which river flowing amaine out of a lake passeth by Finnevim Castle well knowne by reason of the Lindeseies Earles of Crawford keeping residence there of whom I have alreadie written Then upon the said river standeth Brechin which King David the first adorned with a Bishops See and at the very mouth thereof Mont-rose as one would say the Mount of Roses a towne in times past called Celurca risen by the fall of another towne bearing the same name which is seated betweene the two Eskes and imparteth the title of Earle to the family of the Grahams Concerning which towne Ionston hath these verses CELURCA five MONS ROSARUM Aureolis urbs picta rosis mons molliter urbi Imminet hinc urbi nomina facta canunt At veteres perhibent quondam dixisse Celurcam Nomine sic prisco nobilitata novo est Et prisca atque nova insignis virtute virumque Ingeniis patriae qui perperere decus MONT-ROSE With Roses gay the towne is deckt an easie Mount withall Stands neere the same and hence they say MONT-ROSE folke did it call In former times by ancient name Celurca men it knew Ennobled thus you see it is by name both old and new Both old and new renowne it hath for prowesse and for wit Of men that have their countrey grac'd and honour won to it Not farre from hence is Boschain belonging to the Barons of Ogiluy of very ancient nobilitie lineally descended from Alexander Sheriffe of Angus who was slaine in the bloodie battaile at Harley against the Mac Donald of the out Isles As touching the Earles of Angus Gilchrist of Angus renowned for his brave exploits under King Malcolm the fourth was the first Earle of Angus that I read of About the yeere 1242. Iohn Comin was Earle of Angus who died in France and his widow haply inheritrice to the Earldome was married to Sir Gilbert Umfranvill an Englishman For both hee and his heires successively after him were summoned to the Parliaments in England untill the third yeere of King Richard the second by the title of Earles of Angus Howbeit the Lawyers of England refused in their Brieves and instruments to acknowledge him Earle for that Angus was not within the kingdome of England untill hee had brought forth openly in the face of the Court the Kings writ and warrant wherein he was summoned to the Parliament by the name of Earle of Angus In the reigne of David Brus Thomas Stewart was Earle of Angus who by a suddaine surprise won Barwicke and streightwaies lost it yea and within a while after died miserably in prison at Dunbritton But the Douglasses men of haughtie mindes and invincible hearts from the time of King Robert the third have beene Earles of Angus after that George Douglasse had taken to wife the Kings daughter reputed the chiefe and principall Earles of Scotland and to whom this office belongeth to carrie the regall Crown before the Kings at all the solemne assemblies of the kingdome The sixth Earle of Angus out of this stocke was Archebald who espoused Margaret daughter to Henrie the seventh K. of England and mother to James the fifth King of Scots by whom he had issue Margaret wife to Matthew Stewart Earle of Lennox who after her brothers decease that died childlesse willingly resigned up her right and interest in this Earldome unto Sir David Douglasse of Peteindreich her unkles sonne by the fathers side and that with the consent of her husband and sonnes to the end that she might binde the surer unto her selfe by the linke also of a beneficiall demerite that family which otherwise in bloud was most neere what time as Henrie her son went about to wed Marie the Queen by which marriage King JAMES our Soveraigne the mightie Monarch of great Britaine was happily borne to the good of all Britaine MERNIS THese regions were in Ptolomees time inhabited by the VERNICONES the same perhaps that the VECTURIONES mentioned by Marcellinus But this their name is now quite gone unlesse wee would imagine some little peece thereof to remaine in Mernis For many times in common speech of the British tongue V. turneth into M. This small province Mernis abutting upon the German Ocean and of a rich and battle soile lieth very well as a plaine and levell Champion But the most memorable place therein is Dunnotyr a Castle advanced upon an high and unaccessible rocke whence it looketh downe to the underflowing sea well fensed with strong walls and turrets which hath beene a long time the habitation of the Keiths of an ancient and verie noble stock who by the guidance of their vertue became hereditarie Earles Mareschals of the kingdome of Scotland and Sheriffes of this province In a porch or gallerie here is to bee seene that ancient inscription which I mentioned even now of a companie belonging to the twentieth legion the letters whereof the right noble and honourable Earle now living a great lover of antiquitie caused to be guilded Somewhat farther from the sea standeth Fordon graced in some sort and commendable in regard of John de Fordon who being borne here diligently and with great paines compiled Scoti Chronicon that is The Scottish Chronicle unto whose laborious studies the Scottish Historiographers are very much indebted but more glorious and renowned in old time for the reliques of St. Palladius bestowed and shrined sometime as is verily thought in this place who in the yeere 431. was by Pope Caelestinas appointed the Apostle of the Scottish nation MARRIA or MAR. FRom the sea in the mediterranean or inland parts above Mernis MAR enlargeth it selfe and runneth forward threescore miles or thereabout where it lieth broadest Westwards it swelleth up with mountaines unlesse it bee where the rivers Dee which Ptolomee calleth DIVA and Done make way for themselves and enfertile the fields Upon the bank of Done Kildrummy standeth as a faire ornament to the countrey being the ancient seat of the Earles of Marre and not farre distant from it the habitation of the Barons Forbois who being issued from a noble and ancient stocke assumed this surname whereas before time they were called Bois after that the heire of that family had manfully killed a savage and cruell Beare But at the very mouth of this river there be two townes that give greater ornament which of the said mouth that in the British tongue they call Aber borrowing one name are divided asunder by one little field lying betweene the hithermore of them which standeth neerer to Dee mouth is much ennobled by an Episcopall dignitie which King David the first translated hither from Murthlake a little village by faire houses of the Canons an Hospitall for poore people and a free Grammar schoole which William Elphinston Bishop of the place in the yeere 1480. consecrated to the training up
England of the Kings Majesties Privie Counsell whom King James the sixth created Baron Brus of Kinlosse Thus much for the shore More inward where now standeth Bean Castle thought to bee BANATIA that Ptolomee mentioneth there was found in the yeere 1460. a vessell of marble artificially engraven and full of Roman coine Hard by is Nardin or Narne an hereditable Sherifdome of the Cambels of Lorne where there stood within a Biland a fortresse of a mightie heighth built with wonderfull bulwarks and in times past defended by the Danish forces against the Scottish A little off is Logh-Nesse a very great Lake as reaching out 23. miles in length the Water whereof is so warme that even in this cold and frozen climate it never freezeth from which by a verie small Isthim or partition of hils the Logh Lutea or Louthea which by Aber letteth it selfe forth into the West sea is divided Neere unto these Loghs there stood in old time two notable fortifications the one named Innernesse the other Innerlothea according to the names of the said Loghs Innernes hath for Sheriffe thereof by right of inheritance the Marquesse Huntly who is of great command hereabout But have here what M. Jonston hath written jointly of these two INNERNESSUS INNERLOTHEA Imperii veteris duo propugnacula quondam Primâ—que regali moenia structa manu Turribus oppositis adverso in limine spectat Haec Zephyrum Solis illa orientis equos Amnibus hinc atque hinc cincta utraque piscibus amnes Faecundi haec portu perpete tuta patet Haec fuit at jacet heu jam nunc sine nomine tellus Hospita quae Regum est hospita facta feris Altera spirat adhuc tenuis sufflamina vitae Quae dabit fati turbine victa manus Dic ubi nunc Carthago potens ubi Martia Roma Trojáque immensae ditis opes Asiae Quid mireris enim mortalia cedere fatis Corpora cùm videas oppida posse mori INNERNESSE AND INNERLOTHEA Two mightie forts and holds these were in ancient kingdomes daies The first wall'd fences as they say that hand of Kings did raise Affront with towres oppos'd they stand for one of them regards The Westerne winde but th' other looks the Sun-rising towards On both sides they their rivers have and rivers full of fish One hath an haven frequented aye and safe as heart can wish Such was it once but now alas to wast and desart fields Is turn'd and that which lodged Kings to wild beasts harbour yeelds The other yet draw's breath though deepe and shewes that it doth live But over match'd to destinie at length doth bucklers give What 's now become of Carthage great where is that martiall Rome Where Troy of wealthie Asia the riches all and some No marvaile now that mortall wights to death be subject why Because you plainly see that Townes and Cities great may dye Under the reigne of Robert Brus Thomas Randolph his sisters sonne who in his Countries behalfe undertooke exceeding great paines and most grievous quarrels was highly renowned by the title of Earle of Murray Under King Robert the Second John of Dunbarre tooke to wife the Kings daughter to make amends for her devirgination received this Earldome of Murray with her in marriage Under King James the second William Creichton Chancelour of the Realme and Archebald Douglas grew to great variance and eagre contention about this Earledome when as against the lawes and ancient customes Douglas who had married the younger daughter of James of Dunbar Earle of Murray was preferred to the Earldom before Creighton who had wedded the elder and that through the powerfull authoritie that William Earle Douglasse had with the King which was so great that he advanced not onely him to the Earldom of Murray but also another brother to the Earldome of Ormund and made two cousins of his Earles the one of Angus and the other of Morton But this greatnesse of his not to be trusted upon because it was excessive turned soone after to his owne confusion Under King James the fifth his own brother whom he appointed his Vicegerent in the government of the Kingdome enjoied this honour and within our remembrance James the base sonne of King James the fifth received this honour of Queene Mary his sister but he requited her basely when conspiring with some few of the Nobilitie he deposed her from her Royall estate and kingdome a foule president and prejudiciall to all Kings and Princes Which notwithstanding was revenged for shortly after hee was shot through with a bullet His onely daughter brought this title unto her husband Sir James Stewart of Downe who was also of the blood royall from the Dukes of Albany who being slain by his concurrents left his sonne James to succeed him in this honour LOQHUABRE WHatsoever beyond the Nesse bendeth to the West coast and adjoineth to the Lake Aber is thereupon called Loghuabre that is in the ancient tongue of the Britans The mouth of the Lakes as what lieth toward the North is commonly called Rosse Loqhuabre is full of fresh pastures and woods neither is without yron mines but not so free in yeeld of corne but for most fishfull pooles and rivers scarce inferiour to any country thereabout At Logh-Lothey Innerlothey fensed with a fort and well frequented with Merchants was of great name and importance in times past but being razed by the piracies and warres of Danes and Norwegians it hath lien for these many ages so forlet that there remaineth scarce any shew of it which those verses that I alledged even now doe imply Loqhuabre hath had so farre as I have read no Earles but about the yeere of our salvation 1050. there was a Thane over it of great fame and much spoken of named Banqhuo whom Macbeth the bastard when with murder bloodshed he had usurped the crowne being fearfull and suspicious caused to bee made away for that he had learned by a Prophesie of certaine wise women that his posteritie when the line of Macbeth was expired and extinct should one day obtaine the Kingdome and by a long successive descent reigne in Scotland Which verily hath fallen out accordingly For Fleanch the sonne of Banqhuo who unknowne in the darke escaped the traines laid for him â—led into Wales where for a time hee kept himselfe close and having taken to wife Nesta the daughter of Griffith ap Lewellin Prince of North-wales begat Walter who returning into Scotland with so great fame of his fortitude repressed the rebellion of the Ilanders and with as great wisdome managed the Kings revenewes in this tract that the King made him Seneschall whom they commonly call Stewart of the whole Kingdome of Scotland Whereupon this name of Office imposed the surname Stewart unto his posteritie who spreading throughout all parts of Scotland into a number of noble branches after many honours heaped upon them have flourished a long
the later writers it taketh up three hundred miles and no more in length and is scarcely one hundred and twentie miles broad On the East side it hath England severed from it with a troublous and tempestuous sea which is called the Irish sea on the West the huge maine Western Ocean on the North the Deucaledonian sea and on the South the Vergivian sea worketh upon it The country if you would heare Giraldus Cambrensis to speak is uneven full of hils soft waterish and boggie wild and overgrowne with woods lying open to the winds and so full of meeres or loghs that a man may see ponds and standing waters even upon the mountaines The aire as Mela saith is nothing good and favourable for ripening of corn but the ground is so ranke of grasse and the same not onely fresh and long but sweet also withall that the cattell may fill their bellies in a small piece of the day and unlesse they be kept from grazing and not suffered to feed long together their bellies will burst Hence it is that they have such an infinite number of cattell as being indeed the chiefe and principall wealth of the inhabitants and many goodly flockes of sheepe which they sheare twice a yeere and make of their course wooll rugges or shagge mantles caddowes also or coverlets which are vented into forraine countries They have likewise excellent good horses we tearme them Hobbies which have not the same pace that other horses in their course but a soft and round amble setting one legge before another very finely Their haukes also are right commendable but these as all other living creatures besides men women and greyhounds are smaller here than in England Now as well the aire as the ground is excessive moist whence it is that very many there be sore troubled with loosenesse and rheumes but strangers especially yet for the staying of the same they have an Aqua vitae of the best which inflameth a great deale lesse and dryeth much more than ours Whereas Giraldus writeth that those which are borne here sick en never of any of the three kinds of feavers it is daily found by experience to be false As for the land it selfe that I may use the testimonie here of the said Giraldus it is of all countries most temperate neither doth any frying heat of Cancer drive folke to seeke shade nor chilling cold of Capricorne call them in to the fire but all times in maner by reason of the pleasantnesse and temperate disposition of the aire have a gentle kinde of warmth Of Bees there are such numbers that they bee found not onely in hives but also within the bodies of trees and holes of the earth Likewise it hath vines but more for shade than for any fruit they yeeld For no sooner is the sunne passed out of Leo but cold blasts here in this our climat are wont presently to follow and in Autumne the after-noone heats are lesse effectuall and shorter both here and in our Britaine than to give the full and kinde ripening unto Grapes Besides this there is no snake in this countrey nor any venemous thing whatsoever howbeit much noisance they have every where by wolves And that I may speake all at a word whether a man respect the fertilitie of the soil or the commodiousnesse of sea and havens or the inhabitants themselves who are stout hardie warlike wittie proper men of bodie and goodly feature of a wondrous soft skin by reason also of the tendernesse of muscles passing nimble the Iland aboundeth in so many blessings that Giraldus said not without just cause That nature had cast into this Western kingdome of Zephirus a more gracious eye than ordinarie Now that otherwhiles there goeth of it an ill name it is for that the inhabitants are in some places wilde and very uncivill who in a marvellous contrarietie of nature both love idlenesse and withall hate quietnesse who also are immoderately given to fleshly lust and that over soone For among the wilder sort they bestow their maidens in marriage as ripe and readie for husbands when they be once ten or twelve yeeres of age Neither will they by any meanes stay for a competent maturitie of yeeres a thing observed in all other countries But as touching the manners and qualities of the Irish nation I will discourse more at large in the end of this booke And now if it please you give Ireland the hearing whiles she speaketh of her selfe and her commodities in these verses of that most learned man Hadrianus Iunius Illa ego sum Graiis olim glacialis Ierne Dicta Iasoniae puppis bene cognita nautis Quae Tarthessiaco propior se tingere soles Flumine conspicio Cauro subjecta procaci Cui Deus melior rerum nascentium origo Ius commune dedit cum Creta altrice tonantis Noxia ne nostris diffundant sibila in oris Terrificae creti tabo Phorcynidos angues Et fortè illati compressis faucibus atris Viroso pariter vitam cum sanguine ponant En ego cum regni sceptro Mavortia bello Pectora horriferas hominum nil fingo figuras Qui cursu alipedes norint praevertere cervos Dedico piscososque lacus volucrumque paludes Omnigenum lustris foetas stannique fodinas Et puri argenti venas quas terra refossis Visceribus manes imos visura recludit I am that frozen Isle which Greekes once did Ierne call Well knowne to Argo Jasons ship and to her sailers all Which subject unto Caurus curst have sunne more neer in sight When in Tartessus floud he sets and seemes to drench his light Whom God and better Nature hath secured from this feare A gift imparted eke to Crete which Jupiter did reare That snakes of grim Medusa's blood so filthie that were bred Should dare in these my coasts to hisse and hurtfull venome spred And say that some by chance there were brought thither of that brood Throtled anon they lose at once their life with poison'd bloud Lo here with regall scepter I present most martiall mindes And dreadfull shapes I fable not of men who harts and hindes So swift of foot in running can out-strip and leave behind With fishfull lakes besides and fennes where fowles of everie kinde Their eiries have and harbours safe moreover Delfes of tin Rich Mines likewise of silver pure which wondrous farre within The earth hath kept whose bowels now digg'd up for men to prie As if she meant even hell to see she shew's them to the eye If that be true which the Irish Historiographers record this Iland was not without cause by Plutarch tearmed Ogygia that is very ancient For they fetch the beginning of their histories from the most profound and remote records of antiquitie so that in comparison of them the antientness of all other nations is but novelty and as it were a matter of yesterday They write that one Caesaria Noah his Niece
Kilmacduoc Mage Enachdun De Celaiar De Rosconmon Clonfers Achad or Achonry Lade or Killaleth De Conany De Kilmunduach Elphin MOMONIA or MOUNSTER MOMONIA in Irish Mown and in ordinarie construction of speech Wown in English Mounster lieth Southward open to the Vergivian sea separated in some place from Connaght by the river Siney or Shanon and elsewhere from Lemster by the river Neor In times past it was divided into many parts as Towoun that is North Mounster Deswoun that is South Mounster Hier woun that is West Mounster Mean woun that is Middle Mounster and Urwoun that is The Front of Mounster but at this day into two parts that is into West Mounster and South Mounster In the West Mounster there dwelt in old time the LUCENI the VELABRI and UTERINI in the South the OUDIAE or VODIAE and the CORIONDI but at this day it is distinguished into seven Counties Kerry Desmund Corke Limiric Tipperary Holy Crosse and Waterford Where Ireland lieth out most Westward and treanding toward the Cantabrian Ocean looketh afarre off Southwest with a large interspace to Gallitia in Spaine there inhabited in old time the VELABRI and LUCENI as Orosius writeth The LUCENI of Ireland who may seeme to have had their name and beginning from the LUCENSII of Gallitia in the opposite coast of Spaine and of whose name some reliques still remain in the Barony of Lyxnaw were seated as I suppose in the Countie of Kerry and in Conoglogh hard by upon the banke of the river Shanon THE COUNTIE OF KERRY THe Countie of Kerry neere unto the mouth of Shanon runneth forth like a little tongue into the sea beaten on with barking billowes on both sides a country mounting aloft with wooddy wild and solitarie mountaines between which there lye many vallies in some places garnished with corn-fields in others beset also thicke with woods This is reputed a Countie Palatine and the Earles of Desmond had in it the dignitie and priviledges of a Count-Palatine and that by the bountifull gift of K. Edward the third who granted unto them all Regall liberties except foure pleas namely of Burning Rape Forstall and Treasure trouue with the profit growing de Croccis reserved for the Kings of England But through the licentious iniquitie of the men who neither would nor knew how to use this libertie it became of late a very sinke of mischiefes and a common receptacle for rebels In the entrance into this countrie there is a territorie called Clan-Moris of one Moris descended from the stocke of Raimund le Grosse whose heires successively were called the Barons of Lixnaw A little river now namelesse which the situation in some sort implieth to be DUR in Ptolomee cutteth through the midst of this running by Trayley a small towne laid now in manner desolate where the Earles of Desmund had an house Hard by standeth Ardart where the Bishop called of Ardefert a poore one God wot hath his poore See In the farthest point well neere of this where it maketh a promontorie there sheweth it selfe on the one side Dingle a commodious port on the other side Smerwic Sound a road for ships for so they tearme it short in steed of S. Mary-wic at which of late when Girald Earle of Desmund a man notorious for deep treacherie to his Prince and countrey wickedly wasted Mounster with continuall harrying and raising booties out of the fields there arrived certaine companies of Italians and Spaniards sent under-hand to aide him from Pope Gregorie the thirteenth and the King of Spaine who here fortifying a place which they called Fort del Ore made their bragging bravadoes and thundred out many a terrible threat But the most noble and martiall Baron Arthur Lord Grey Lord Deputie with his very comming and first onset that he made upon them decided the matter and ended the quarrell For immediately they yeelded themselves and the most part of them were put to the sword which was in policie thought the wisest and safest course considering in what ticklish tearmes the state of this Realme then stood and how the rebels in every place were up in armes And the Earle of Desmund himselfe at length in his fearefull flight being forced to take the woods hard by for his refuge was soone after in a poore cottage by a souldier or two rushing in upon him first wounded and afterwards being knowne cut shorter by the head and so paid worthily for his perfidious treason and the wasting of his countrey Here some man happily would thinke it not correspondent to the gravity of this worke if I should but relate what a ridiculous opinion hathfully possessed the minds of a number of the Irishry yea and perswaded them verily to beleeve that he who in that barbarous Pharoh and out cry of the Souldiers which with great straining of their voice they use to set up when they joine battaile doth not cry and hout as the rest doe is suddenly caught up from the ground and carried as it were flying in the aire into these desert vallies out of any country of Ireland whatsoever where he eateth grasse lappeth water knoweth not in what state he is good or bad hath some use of reason but not of speech but shall be caught at length with the help of hounds and the hunters and brought home to their owne homes DESMONIA or DESMOND BEneath those ancient LUCENI lieth DESMOND stretched out farre and wide toward the South called in Irish Deswown in Latine Desmonia inhabited in ancient times by the VELLABRI and IBERNI which in some copies are written UTERINI As for these VELABRI they may seeme so named of ABER that is salt water washes for that they dwelt upon such Friths divided one from another by many and those notable armes of the sea running betweene whence also the Artabri and Cantabri in Spaine had their denomination Among these armes of the sea three promontories beside Kerry aforesaid with crooked and winding shoares run out into the Southwest and those the inhabitants tearmed in old time Hierwoun that is West-Mounster The first of them betweene Dingle bay and the river Mair is named Clan-Car and hath a castle built at Dunkeran by the Carews of England In this dwelt Donald Mac Carty More a Lord of the Irish blood who in the yeere 1566. resigned up unto Queen Elizabeths hands his possessions and lands and tooke them againe of her to hold the same after the English manner by fee doing homage and fealtie And at the same time he was 〈◊〉 created Baron of Valentia an Island adjoining and Earle of Clan-car A man in this tract of great name and power a most deadly foe in times past of the Fitz-Giralds who disseized his ancestours Kings as hee stifly avoucheth of Desmond of their ancient seat and habitation But long enjoied not hee this honour and having but one onely daughter legitimate he matched her in marriage with Florence Mac Carty and
departed out of this life an aged man The second promontorie enclosed within two baies Maire and Bantre is named Beare standing for the most part upon hungry gravell and a leane stony soile In which live O Swillivant Beare and O Swillivant Bantre descended both of one and the same stocke men of great nobility in their country The third is called Eraugh lying betweene Bantre and Balatimore or Baltimore a Bay or Creeke passing well knowne by reason of the abundance of Herrings taken there whereunto resorteth every yeere a great fleet of Spaniards and Portugals even in the mids of winter to fish for Cods In this the O Mahons by the beneficiall gift of M. Carew received faire lands and Lordships This is that Ptolomee calleth NOTIUM that is the South-Promontorie at this day named Missen-head under which as we may read in him the river IERNUS is disgorged into the Ocean But what name the said river now hath in so great obscurity I hardly dare divine unlesse it be that which they call Maire and runneth hard under Dunk-eran aforesaid Neither wot I how to ghesse at those people whom the same Ptolomee placeth upon these promontories seeing that according to the varietie of copies they have sundry names as IBERNI OUTERNI IBERI and IVERNI unlesse peradventure like as their neighbours the LUCENI and CONCANI did they flitted hither from among the Iberi of Spaine Well this name of Desmond in the foregoing ages stretched farre and wide in this tract even from the sea unto the river Shanon and was called also South-Mounster The Fitz-Giralds descended out of the house of Kildare having subdued the Irish became Lords here of very large and goodly possessions and of them Maurice Fitz-Thomas unto whom T. Carew heire unto the Seigniory of Desmond had before passed away his right of Desmond was in the third yeere of King Edward the third created the first Earle of Desmond Among whose posterity many there were great men for their valour and wealth whose credit also and reputation reached farre But a bad name there went and still doth of James who having excluded his nephew from the inheritance entred himselfe by force upon it and imposed upon the people those most grievous tributes of Coyne Livery Cocherings Bonaghty c. for the maintenance of Galloglasses and Souldiers to spoile and harry the countrey Which when his sonne Thomas exacted and gathered of the poore people hee was by the commandement of John Tiptoft Deputy Lievtenant beheaded in the yeere 1467. and so suffered due punishment for his owne and his fathers wickednesse Howbeit when his children were restored againe in their off-spring this honour continued and descended in right of inheritance unto Girald that rebell whom erewhile I named who wilfully overthrew a most noble and potent family And when hee was attainted by Parliamentary authority Desmond was adjudged and annexed to the Crowne land reduced into the ranke of counties and a Sheriffe was ordained to governe it from yeere to yeere Neverthelesse in the last rebellion the rebells erected a titularie Earle and against him Queene Elizabeth granted the title of Earle of Desmond unto Iames Fitz-Girald sonne to the foresaid rebell who shortly after died issuelesse in the yeere 1601. They that herein beare the greatest name and most puissance are of the race of the Giraldines or Fitz-Giralds although they have for sundry respects assumed unto themselves divers sirnames VODIAE and CORIONDI AFter the Iberi there dwelt farre in the countrey the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 who are tearmed also VODIAE and UDIAE the footing of which name doth more expresly shew it selfe in Idou and Idouth two small territories like as the name of CORIONDI in the countie of Corke bordering upon them These nations inhabited the counties of Corke Tipperary Limericke and Waterford COMITATUS CORCAGIENSIS commonly called THE COUNTY OF CORK THe County of Corke which in old time was reputed a Kingdome comprised the whole tract along the sea from Lismore unto Saint Brend where it affronteth Desmond Westward hath in the midland parts thereof Muâ—keray a wild and woody country wherein Cormac Mac-Teg is of great name and toward the sea coast Carbray in which the Mac-Carties beare the most sway By the sea side the first place that we meet with is Rosse a road and port in times past well frequented but now lesse resorted unto by reason of a bar of sand From thence with a narrow neck runneth out a biland called the Old head of Kinsale neere unto which the family of the Curcies flourished in ancient times famous for their wealth descended from a brother of Iohn Curcy the Englishman that subdued Ulster and out of which there remaineth here still Curcy Baron of Ringrom but at this day this is the world of weak and meane estate After it at the mouth of the river Bany in a fertile soile and well woodded standeth Kinsale a very commodious port and a towne fortified with old walls under which in the yeere 1601. the kingdome of Ireland lay a bleeding and put it was upon the hazzard as it were of one cast of a die whether it should be subject to England or Spaine what time as the Iland was endangered both with forraine and domesticall warre and eight thousand old trained souldiers under the conduct of Don Iohn D' Aquila had of a sudden surprized and fortified it confident upon the censures and excommunications of Pius the fifth Gregorie the thirteenth and Clement the eighth Popes of Rome discharged like thunderbolts upon Queene Elizabeth and presuming confidently upon the aides of rebells who had sent for them under a goodly shew of restoring religion which in this age and variance about religion is every where pretended for to maske and cloak most ungracious and wicked designes But Sir Charles Blunt Baron Mountjoy L. Deputy presently belaied it round about both by sea and land albeit his souldiers were tired toiled out and the season of the yeere most incommodious as being midwinter and withall made head also against a rabble of rebels whom the Earle of Tir-Oen O-Donel Mac-Gwyre and Mac-Mahound had raised and gotten thither and with such valour and fortitude so fortunately daunted and repressed their malapert boldnesse that with one victory hee both had the towne with the Spaniards in it yeelded unto him and also wrested as it were out of the hands of all Ireland throughout now at the point of revolt for they that deliberate are revolted already both sword and fire On the other side of the river from Kinsale lieth Kerry-Wherry a little territorie of late belonging to the Earles of Desmond Just before which runneth the river that Ptolomee calleth DAURONA Giraldus Cambrensis by changing onely one letter Sauranus and Saveranus which issuing out of Muâ—kerey mountaines passeth along by that principall Citie of the countie graced with an Episcopall dignitie whereunto is annexed the Bishops See of Clon
which Giraldus nameth Corragia Englishmen Corke and the naturall inhabitants of the country Coreach enclosed within a circuit of walls in forme of an egge with the river flowing round about it and running betweene not passable through but by bridges lying out in length as it were in one direct broad street and the same having a bridge over it Howbeit a pretty towne of merchandise it is well peopled and much resorted unto but so beset on every side with rebels neighbouring upon it that they are faine to keepe alwaies a set watch and ward as if they had continuall siege laid unto their Citie and dare not marrie their daughters forth into the country but make marriages one with another among themselves whereby all the Citizens are linked together in some degree or other of kinred and affinity The report goeth that Brioc that most devout and holy man who in that fruitfull age of Saints flourished among the Gauls and from whom the Diocesse of Sanbrioch in Britaine Armorica commonly called S. Brieu tooke the name was borne and bred here Beneath Corke the river parting in twaine environeth a large and very pleasant Iland over against the principall dwelling house of that most ancient and noble family of the Barries which thereupon is called Barry Court For that family is derived from Robert de Barry an Englishman a personage of great worth and renowned who notwithstanding chose rather among the first to be chiefe indeed than to seeme chiefe who in the winning of Ireland received wounds and hurt and the first man he was in Ireland that manned and brought the Hawk to hand His posterity by their long approved loyaltie and martiall prowesse deserved to receive of the Kings of England first the title of Baron Barry afterwards of Vicount Butiphant for their great lands and wealth gat among the people the sirname Barry more that is Barry the great Below Barry-court the river Saveren hard by Imokelly a faire possession long since of the Earle of Desmond loseth it selfe in the Ocean affording at the very mouth commodious harbours and havens As Saveren watereth the neather part of this countrey so Broodwater called in times past Aven-more that is The great River moisteneth the upper upon which inhabiteth the Noble family of Roch which being transplanted out of England hath growne up and prospered here very well and now enjoieth the title of Vicount Fermoy Certaine it is that in the reigne of Edward the second they were entituled with the honour of Parliament-Barons considering that George Roch was fined in two hundred Markes because upon summons given hee came not to the Parliament at Dublin where Broodwater which for a good while runneth as a bound between this county and the county of Waterford entring into the sea maketh an haven standeth Yoghall no great towne but walled round about built in fashion somewhat long and divided into two parts the upper which is the greater part stretching out Northward hath a Church in it and without the wall a little Abbey which they call North Abbey the neather part reaching Southward called the Base-towne had also an Abbey called South Abbey and the commodiousnesse of the haven which hath a well fensed Kay belonging unto it and the fruitfulnesse withall of the country adjoining draweth Merchants unto it so as it is well frequented and inhabited yea and hath a Mayor for the head Magistrate Thus farre in these daies reacheth the countie of Corke which in times past as I said even now was counted a kingdome and went farther as which contained within it Desmond also This kingdome King Henry the second gave and granted unto Sir Robert Fitz-Stephen and to Sir Miles de Cogan in these words Know yee that I have granted the whole kingdome of Corke excepting the City and Cantred of the Oustmans to hold for them and their heires of mee and Iohn my sonne by the service of 60. knights And the Carews of England were heires to that Fitz-Stephen from whom Sir George Carew now Baron Carew of Clopton lineally and directly deriveth his descent who not long since was the Lord President of Mounster and in some of these obscure Irish matters which I willingly acknowledge hath directed me by the light of his knowledge THE COUNTY OF WATERFORD ON the East coast of Ireland the county of WATERFORD extendeth it selfe between the rivers Broodwater West Shour East the Ocean from the South and the county of Tipperary Northward a goodly country as well for pleasant site as fertile soile Upon Broodwater so soone as it hath left Corke county behinde it Lismore sheweth it selfe well knowne for an Episcopall See in it where Christian sate sometime the Bishop and Legate of Ireland about the yeere 1148. a Prelate that deserved passing well of the Irish Church trained in his youth at Clarevall in the same cloister with St. Bernard and Pope Eugenius But now since that the possessions in manner all have beene alienated it is united unto the Bishopricke of Waterford But neere unto the mouth of the said river standeth Ardmor a little towne so called because it standeth neere the sea of which and of this river Necham long since versified thus Urbem Lisimor pertransit flumen Avenmor Ardmor cernit ubi concitus aequor adit The river named Aven-Mor through Lismor towne doth runne Ardnor him sees and there apace to sea he speeds anon The little territory adjoining unto it is called Dessee the Lord whereof one of the family of Desmond received in our remembrance the honourable title of Vicount Dessee but for that he had no issue male it vanished with him in a short time Not farre from hence standeth Dungarvan upon the sea a towne well fortified with a castle and as commodious by reason of the roade for ships which together with the Baronie of Dungarvan King Henry the sixth bountifully granted unto John Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury but afterward seeing it stood handsomely to that part of Mounster which was to be brought under and reduced to order it was by authority of Parliament annexed to the Imperiall Crowne of the Kings of England for ever Neer unto it flourished the Poers of ancient nobility from the very first time that Ireland was conquered by the English and afterward advanced to the honourable title of the Barons of Curraghmore But upon the banke of the river Suyr Waterford the chiefe and principall city of this county maketh a goodly shew Concerning which old Necham writeth in this wise Suirius insignem gaudet ditare Waterford Aequoreis undis associatur ibi The river Suyr hath great desire Faire Waterford rich to make For in this place he hies apace His course with sea to take This city which the Irish and Britans call Porthlargy the English Waterford was built by certaine Pirates of Norway and although it standeth in an aire somewhat grosse and upon a soile not very fruitfull and the streets
the English Limirick A Bishops See this is and a very famous mart towne of Mounster first forcibly won by Reimundo the Grosse an Englishman the sonne of William Girald afterwards burnt by Duvenald an Irish petty King of Thuetmond and then in processe of time Philip Breos an Englishman was enfeoffed in it King John fortified it with a castle At this day it is counted two townes The upper for so they call it wherein stand the Cathedrall Church and the castle hath two gates opening into it and each of them a faire bridge unto it of stone with bulwarkes and little draw bridges the one leading into the West the other into the East unto which the nether towne joineth fensed with a wall with a castle also thereto and a foregate at the entrance into it More into the East standeth Clan-William so named of the sept or kinred of William who came out of the family de Burgo the Irish call it Burke which dwelleth therein and out of which house Queene Elizabeth conferred upon William who slew Iames Fitz-Moris that tempestuous troubler of his country the title and honour of Baron of Castle-Conel where Richard the Red Earle of Ulster had strengthened a castle together with a yeerly pension as a reward of his valour and to his comfort and meed for the losse of his sonnes slaine in that encounter In the South part of this county is Kil-Mallo the second towne next to Limirick both for wealth and for number of inhabitants enclosed also with a wall about it likewise Adar a little towne in old time fortified standing upon the same river which streightwaies emptieth it selfe into Shanon hard unto which lieth Clan-Gibbon the Lord whereof Iohn Fitz-Girald called Iohn Oge Fitz-Iohn Fitz Gibbon and for the gray haires of his head The white Knight was attainted by Parliament for his wicked acts but his sonne through the clemency of Queene Elizabeth was restored to his full estate Of great note and name above the rest in this tract besides those Bourks Giraldines and Fitz-Giralds are the Laceys Browns Hurleys Chaceys Sapells and Pourcels all of the English race also the Mac-Shees Mac-Brien O-Brian c. of Irish breed THE COUNTY OF TIPPERARY THe county Tipperary Westward is bounded with Limirick-shire aforesaid and the river Shanon Eastward with the county of Kilkenny toward the South with the counties of Corke and Waterford and North with the territorie of the O-Carolls The South part is an exceeding fertile country and yeeldeth corne abundantly furnished also sufficiently with good and frequent buildings The West part of it the river Glason passeth through and watereth with a long course not farre from the banke whereof standeth Emely or Awne a Bishops See which hath beene in times past by report a City very populous and of great resort Through the midst of it runneth the noble river Shower or Swire which streaming out of Bladin hill speeding through the lower Ossery which by the bountifull favour of King Henry the eighth entituled the Butlers Earles of Ossery and through Thurles which honoureth them with the dignity of Vicounts first goeth unto Holy Crosse a right famous Abbey in times past whence the country also adjoining is commonly termed the Countie of the Holy Crosse of Tipperary and enjoieth certaine peculiar freedomes granted in honour of a piece of Christs crosse there sometimes preserved The whole world saith Saint Cyrill is full of peeces of this wood and yet by a continuall miracle as Paulinus saith it hath never beene impaired Thus were Christians perswaded in ancient times And incredible it is what a confluence there is even yet of people continually upon devotion hither as unto an holy place So firmely doth this nation persevere in the old Religion of their forefathers which the carelesse negligence of their Prelates and ignorance together hath beyond all measure encreased when as there be none to instruct and teach them otherwise Then Shour passeth beside Cassile beautified with an Archiepiscopall dignity by Engenius the third Bishop of Rome which had under it in times past many Bishops as Suffragans From thence runneth the river downe sprinkling Islands here and there in the way and fetcheth a compasse about Cahir Castle which out of the family of the Butlers hath a Baron advanced to that dignity by Queene Elizabeth but his sonne stained himselfe with perfidious disloialty and suffered for it when as the Castle was by the Earle of Essex taken in the yeere 1599. and himselfe cast into prison Then holding on his course by Clomell a mercate towne well frequented and fensed as also by Carick Mac-Griffin situate upon a rock whereof also it tooke name the habitation of the Earles of Ormond which together with the honour of Earle of Carrick King Edward the second granted unto Edmund Boteler or Butler it leaveth Tipperary behinde it and serveth in steed of a limit to confine the Counties of Waterford and Kilkenny Thus much of the places in the South side of this county As for that which lieth Northward leane it is and very barren peaking up with high tops of mountaines and twelve above the rest as it were hudled up together which they terme Phelemge Modona This part in Latin is called Ormondia in Irish Orwowon that is the Front of Mounster in English Ormond and most men name it very corruptly Wormewood All the name and glory whereof ariseth from the Earles of whom there hath beene a number since Iames Butler upon whom and his heires King Edward the third conferred this title of honour for terme of life with the Roialty also and other liberties with Knights fees in the county of Tipperary the which his posterity through the favour of the Kings of England still enjoy whence this County is reputed Palatine and he of some was stiled Earle of Tipperary The ancesters of this James were in old time the Butlers an honourable office of Ireland and from thence came this sirname Le Boteler or Butler imposed upon them and certaine it is that they were linked in most neere alliance unto St. Thomas Becket Archbishop of Canterbury as who derive their descent from his sister and that after hee was murdered they were by King Henry the second removed into Ireland who supposed that hee should disburden himselfe of the worlds hatred for that fact in case he advanced the kinsfolkes and allies of the said Thomas to rich revenues and high honours The first Earle of Ormond in this family was James sonne to Edmund Earle of Carricke who wedded the daughter of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford whom he had by a daughter of King Edward the first and here was his first step unto this honour Hereupon James his sonne by this marriage came to be commonly named among the people The noble Earle The fifth Earle of these named James that I may not stand particularly upon every one received
at the hands of King Henry the sixth the title and honour of Earle of Wiltshire to him and to the heires of his body who being Lord Deputy of Ireland as divers others of this race and Lord Treasurer of England standing attainted by King Edward the fourth was straight waies apprehended and beheaded but his brethren John and Thomas likewise proclaimed traytors kept themselves close out of the way John died at Jerusalem without issue Thomas through the speciall favour of King Henry the seventh was in the end restored to his blood who departed this life in the yeere 1515. leaving behinde him two daughters Anne married to Sir Iames de sancto Leodegano called commonly Sellenger and Margaret unto Sir William Bollein who bare unto him Sir Tho. Bollein whom King Henry the eighth created first Viscount Rochfort afterwards Earle of Wiltshire and of Ormond and afterward took Anne Bollein his daughter to wife who brought forth for England Queene Elizabeth a Prince of most happy memory and with all thankfulnesse to be alwaies remembred by the English and Irish. When Thomas Bollein was dead leaving no issue male Sir Pierce Butler a man of great power in Ireland descended of the Earles race whom Henry the eighth had before time created Earle of Osserie attained also to the title of Ormond and left the same unto his sonne James who had issue by the daughter and heire of James Earle of Desmond a sonne named Thomas Earle of Ormond now living whose faith and loyaltie hath been passing well tried and approved in many troubles and dangerous affaires who also hath joined in marriage his only daughter unto Theobald Butler his brothers son whom King James hath advanced lately to the title of Vicount Tullo Whereas some of the Irish and such as would be thought worthy of credit doe affirme that certaine men in this tract are yeerely turned into Wolves surely I suppose it be a meere fable unlesse haply through that malicious humour of predominant unkind Melancholy they be possessed with the malady that the Physicians call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which raiseth and engendereth such like phantasies as that they imagine themselves to bee transformed into Wolves Neither dare I otherwise affirme of those metamorphosed Lycaones in Liveland concerning whom many Writers deliver many and marvellous reports Thus farre as touching the Province of Mounster for the government whereof Queene Elizabeth when shee bethought herselfe most wisely politickly and princely which way she might procure the good and wealth of Ireland ordained a Lord President to be the reformer and punisher of inconsiderate rashnesse the director also and moderator of duty together with one Assistant two learned Lawyers and a Secretary and the first President that shee made was Sir Warham S. Leger Knight a man of great experience in Irish affaires LAGENIA or LEINSTER THe second part of Ireland which the inhabitants call Leighnigh the Britans Lein the English Leinster and Latine writers Lagenia and in the ancient lives of the Saints Lagen lieth all of it on the Sea-side Eastward bounded toward Mounster with the river Neor which notwithstanding in many places it passeth beyond on Connaght side for a good space with Shanon and toward Meath with the peculiar knowne limits The Countrey is fertile and fruitfull the aire most milde and temperate and the people there inhabiting come neerest of all other to the gentle disposition and civill conversation of England their neighbour Iland from whence they are for the most part descended In Ptolomees dayes therein were seated the BRIGANTES MENAPII CAUCI and BLANI and peradventure from these Blani are derived and contracted these later and moderne names Lein Leinigh and Leinster But now it is divided into the Counties of Kilkenny Caterlogh Queenes County Kings County Kildare Weisford and Dublin to say nothing of Wicklo and Fernes which either be already or else are to be laid thereto BRIGANTES or BIRGANTES THe BRIGANTES seeme to have planted themselves betweene the mouth of the river and the confluence of Neor and Barrow which in Ptolomee is called BRIGUS Now because there was an ancient City of the Brigantes in Spaine named BRIGANTIA Florianus del Campo laboureth tooth and naile to fetch these BRIGANTES out of his owne countrey Spaine But if such a conjecture may take place others might with as great probality derive them from the Brigantes of Britaine a nation both neere and also exceeding populous But if that be true which I finde in certaine copies that this people were called BIRGANTES both hee and the other have missed the marke For that these tooke their denomination of the river BIRGUS about which they doe inhabite the very name is almost sufficient to perswade us These BRIGANTES or BIRGANTES whether you will dwelt in the Counties of Kilkenny Ossery and Caterlogh watered all with the river BIRGUS THE COUNTIE OF KILKENNY THe Countie of Kilkenny is bounded West with the countie of Tipperary East with the counties of Weisford and Caterlogh South with the countie of Waterford North with Queenes Countie and Northwest with upper Osserie A countrey that with townes and castles on every side maketh a very goodly shew and for plenty of all things surpasseth the rest Neere unto Osserie the mighty and huge mountaines Sleiew Bloemy which Giraldus calleth Bladinae Montes with their rising toppes mount up to a wonderfull heigth out of the bowels whereof as from their mothers wombe issue the rivers Shour aforenamed Neor and Barrow which running downe in severall chanels before they enter into the Ocean joine hand in hand all together whereupon they in old time tearmed them The three sisters The Neor commonly called also Neure runneth in manner through the midst of Kilkenny county and when it is passed with a forward course by the upper Osserie the first Baron whereof was Barnabas Fitz-Patrick promoted to that honor by King Edward the sixth and hath watered many fortresses on both sides floweth beside Kilkenny which is as much to say as the Cell or Church of Canic which for the sanctimony of his solitary life in this country was highly renowned a proper faire and wealthy Burrough towne this is and far excelling all other midland Boroughs in this Iland divided into the Irish towne and the English towne The Irish towne is as it were the Suburbs and hath in it the said Canicks Church which both gave name unto it and now also affordeth a See unto the Bishop of Osserie But the English towne is nothing so ancient built as I have read by Ranulph the third Earle of Chester and fortified with a wall on the West side by Robert Talbot a Nobleman and with a castle by the Butlers And sure it is that in the division of lands between the daughters of William Mareschal Earle of Penbroch it fell unto the third daughter whom Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester married Somewhat beneath the same Neore standeth a little walled towne named in English Thomas Towne
building of the Church and the whole close This was done in the yeere 1012. in which as Lancarvanensis avoucheth Sitric the sonne of Abloie for so he calleth him lived and flourished in great name The worke begun by Donatus Laurence Archbishop of Dublin Richard Strongbow Earle of Penbroch commonly called Earle of Strigulia whose tomb is here to be seen repaired by Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy Robert Fitz-Stephen and Reimund Fitz-Girald finished Hard at the South side of this Church there standeth a stately Towne-hall built of foure square stone and called the Tolestale where causes are tried before the Maior of the City and where the Citizens use to hold their Sessions and publike assemblies for it enjoyeth many immunities In times past this Citie had for the chiefe Magistrate a Provost but in the yeere of our redemption 1409. King Henry the fourth granted them licence to chuse every yeere a Maior and two Bailifs also that the Maior should have a gilt sword carried before him for ever But afterwards King Edward the sixth changed the Bailiffes into Sheriffes Neither wanteth any thing here which a man can wish for in a most flourishing City save only that an heape of sand which the ebbing and flowing of the sea casteth up into the mouth of Liffy doth so dam up and bar the haven that it is not able to bring up any great vessels but at high water Thus much of Dublin for the most part of which I acknowledge my selfe beholden unto the diligence and learning of Iames Usher Chancellor of S. Patricks Church whose variety of knowledge and judgement are far above his yeeres As touching Robert Vere Earle of Oxford whom King Richard the second a Prince too too lavish in giving honourable titles made Marquesse of Dublin and afterwards Duke of Ireland I have spoken already and reason I have none to repeat the same here Yet will I note thus much which I have since happened upon in the Records When as King Richard aforesaid had advanced that Robert Vere Earle of Oxford to bee Marquesse of Dublin and had given to him the Seigniory of Ireland during his life hee desirous to augment his honour by more ennoblishing him with honourable Armes granted also that as long as hee should live and hold the said Seigniory he should beare these Armes Azure 3. Crownes Or in a Bordur in his Standards Pennons Coat-armours and other things wherein Armes are to be shewed in all Marshall matters and elsewhere at his pleasure But this grant was soone after recalled and those Armes abolished Where the river Liffy lodgeth himselfe in the Ocean Houth standeth compassed in manner round about with the sea of which the Noblemen sirnamed Saint Laurence and dwelling there become named Barons of Houth men of rare felicity for that in so long a descent of their line for they are able to derive their pedegree from the time of King Henry the second there hath of them by report none beene attainted of high treason none left ward in his minority And within a little of this place is Malchide or Molachid ennobled by the Lords thereof the Talbots English by their first originall More within the country Northward there adjoineth hard to the county of Dublin Fingall that is if you interpret it out of the Irish language a nation of forreiners for they use to nominate the English Gall as one would say strangers and Saissones as it were Saxons a little country but very good and passing well husbanded even the garner and barn of this kingdome so great store of corne it yeeldeth every yeere And here the soile striveth after a sort with the painfull labour of the husbandman which in other places throughout this Iland lying neglected without tillage and manuring seemeth to make a very grievous complaint of the inhabitants sloth and lazinesse There are planted every where throughout this county right worshipfull families nobly descended of English blood and namely besides those which I have already mentioned the Plonkets Barnwels Russels Talbots Dillons Nettervils Holywoods Lutterels Burnels Fitz Williams Gouldings Usshers Cadleys Finglases Sarfelds Blackneys Cruceys Baths c. Thus farre forth summarily of Leinster which in old time reached no farther Now I wot not whether it bee worth the laughing at or the relating that Thomas Stukely when hee had in England and Ireland both made shipwracke of his good name credit and fortunes having wound himselfe out of the danger of the lawes curried such favour with Pope Gregory the thirteenth what with making many faire promises and what with bragging of great matters that hee received at his hands these titles Marquesse of Leinster Earle of Weisford and Caterlogh Vicount Murrough and Baron of Rosse and Ydron With which titles hee being puffed up in pride whiles he thought to conquer Ireland went aside into Africk and there with the three Kings that were slaine in one battell made up the enterlude of his life with an honest close and catastrophe MIDIA OR MEDIAMETH THe rest of the Countrey of the Eblani was in ancient time a kingdome and the fifth part of Ireland which in their owne native language they call Miih the English Meth Giraldus nameth it in Latin Midia and Media perhaps because it is in the very middle of the Iland For they say that Killair a castle in these parts which seemeth to be in Ptolomee LABERUS is as it were the Navill of Ireland And the very name implieth no lesse For Lair in the Irish tongue signifieth The Middle This Meth lieth stretched out from the Irish sea as farre as to the river Shanon For the soile thereof as saith Bartholomaeus Anglicus Fertile it is in corne pasture ground and cattell plentifull in fish flesh and other victualls of white meat as butter cheese and milke watered also with rivers The situation is delectable to the eye and an wholsome aire In regard of woods and marishes in the skirts and borders it hath a very hard accesse and entry unto it And therefore considering the multitude of people the strength of castles and townes is iâ— commonly called for the peace thereof the CHAMBER of IRELAND Within the memorie of our fathers because the country was too large for to be governed by one Sheriffe and to the end that justice might with more facility be ministred it was divided by authority of Parliament in the 38. yeere of King Henry the eighth into two parts namely the county of East Meth and the county of West-Meth THE COUNTY OF EAST-METH THe County of EAST-METH is environed round about with the county of Kildar South with the county of Dublin and the sea East with the territorie of Louth North and with the county of West Meth on the West The whole is divided into 18. Baronies Dueleke Scrine Slane Margallen Navan Kenles halfe the Barony of Fower neer to Kenles Killalou Demore Cloue Moylagh Loghern Oldcastle Luyn Moyfeuraragh Deese Rath-touth and
the great preparation for the English warre hanging so neere over his head he betooke himselfe into the protection of King Henry the second without trying the hazzard of battell But when as forthwith he brake his allegeance and revolted Miles Cogan was the first Englishman that gave the attempt upon Conaght yet sped hee not in his enterprise Howbeit that King of Conaght abovesaid was driven to this exigent as to acknowledge himselfe the King of Englands Liegeman to serve him faithfully as his man and to pay unto him yeerely of every tenth beast one hide mercateable c. And King John granted that the third part of Conaght should remaine unto him still to bee held hereditarily for an hundred Markes But William Fitz-Adelme whose posterity are called in Latin de Burgo and Burke or Bourke in Irish Robert Muscegros Gilbert Clare Earle of Gloster and William de Birmingham were the first English that fully subdued this country and laboured to bring it to civill government And William Bourk and his lineall posterity being called Lords of all Conaght governed that province together with Ulster for a long time in great peace and tranquility yea and raised thereout rich revenues untill the onely daughter of William Burke sole heire in grosse of Conaght and Ulster both was matched in marriage with Leonell Duke of Clarence King Edward the thirds sonne But when as he abode for the most part in England and the Mortimers his heires and successours looked but negligently to their patrimony and inheritance in Ireland the Bourkes there allies whom they had appointed as overseers of their lands taking the advantage of their Lords absence and presuming upon the troubles in England despising the authority of lawes entring into alliance with the Irish and contracting marriage with them seized upon all Conaght to their owne behoofe and degenerating by little and little have laid downe English civility and taken up Irish behaviour Whereof some who fetched their pedegree from Richard Burke were called Clan-Ricard others Mac William Oughter that is The upper others Mac William Eughter that is The lower even as they who in the countie of Maio were of greatest power and authority affected to be tearmed simply Mac-William as being a name full of honour glory and authority because they descended from William de Burgo or Burke whom I mentioned erewhile under countenance of which name they for a long time tyrannized over the poore inhabitants with most grievous exactions ULTONIA OR ULSTER ALL the land beyond the mouth of the river Boyn Meath the County Longford and the mouth of the river Ravie that stretcheth Northward is counted the fifth part of Ireland called in Latin Ultonia and Ulidia in English Ulster in Irish Cui Guilly that is The Province Guilly and of our Welsh Britans Ultw Which Province was wholly inhabited in Ptolomees time by the VOLUNTII DARNI ROBOGDII and ERDINI A large country bespred with many and those very large loghes and lakes shaded with many and thicke woods in some places fruitfull in others barren howbeit fresh and green to see to in every place and replenished with cattell But as the countrey for want of manuring is growne to be rough so the naturall dispositions of the people wanting civill discipline are become most wild and barbarous Yet to the end that they might be kept within the bounds of their duty who were wont to breake in sunder all bands of equity of honesty and of duty the hether part of it was in times past divided into three counties Louth Downe and Antrim and now the rest is laid out into seven new counties that is to say Cavon Fermanagh Monaghan Armagh Colran Tir-Oen and Donegall or Tir-Conell by the provident care of Sir Iohn Perot L. Deputy who being notable and worthy man well acquainted with the humours and haughty spirits of the Province foreseeing that no policy would serve better to appease the tumults of Ireland than to reduce these parts of Ulster into order and to keepe them downe going thither in a dangerous and ticklish time when the King of Spaine hovered and gaped both for Ireland and England with his gravitie and authority whiles by barring all wrongs hee did cut off the causes and quarrells of warre brought all the Potentates or Captaines of Ulster to this passe that willingly they suffered their Seigniories to bee divided into Counties and Sheriffes to bee appointed for the government thereof But he being within a while after recalled home and climbing still higher unto honours the heavie displeasure and envie of some whom hee was not able to counterpoise and his owne lavish tongue together for unadvisedly he had let flye somewhat against the Princes Majestie which to impaire in word is a capitall matter plunged him headlong ere he was aware upon his owne destruction as I have declared elsewhere more amply THE COUNTIE OF LOUTH THe county of LOUTH in ancient bookes written Luva and Luda called in the Irish tongue Iriel or Uriel if that be not rather a part of this territory situate beyond Meth and the mouth of the river Boyn turning full upon the Irish sea runneth out with a shore much winding into the North the soile whereof is so full of forage and so fruitfull that it soone answereth and recompenseth the husband mans toile and charges Neere unto Boynes mouth is seated Drogheda or Droghda in English Tredagh a fine towne well peopled and frequented so called of the bridge and divided by the river Boyne running through it Unto which King Edward the second for Theobald Verdons sake granted licence for a mercate and Faire the Kings confirmed many and great liberties and among other a Mint Neere unto this standeth Mellifont Abbey founded by Donald a King of Uriel and much praised by Saint Bernard which Queene Elizabeth when as the religious Monkes were before thrust out gave unto Sir Edward More of Kent for his good deserts both at home and abroad in the warres Ardeth seven miles from hence is a dry in-land towne well knowne and above it Dundalk with a commodious haven and in times past strongly walled which Edward Brus brother to the King of Scots who had proclaimed himselfe King of Ireland burnt but hee within a while after was with eight thousand two hundred of his men slaine neere thereabout And in our remembrance Shan O Neale laied siege unto it but straightwaies hee was forced with shame enough to dislodge Eight miles from hence standeth Carlingford a port also of good request and resort neither be there to my knowledge any other places in this county worth the naming This Louth had for Earle Sir Iohn Birmingham an Englishman whom in reward of his martiall valour when hee had discomfited and in a pitcht field slaine that Edward Brus who assuming the title of King of Ireland for a time had made soule work with fire and sword in Ireland King Edward the second advanced to the
the mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging Neere to Armach upon a rising hill remain the reliques of an old castle Owen-Maugh they call it which was as they say the ancient habitation of the Kings of Ulster More East glideth the Black-water in the Irish tongue More that is Great which is the limit betweene this shire and Tir-Oen whereof I am to speak in due place In this country and about it Mac-Genis O Hanlan O Hagan and many of the sept of O-Neal assuming unto them sundry additions and by-names carry all the sway after a sort and over-rule the rest THE COUNTY OF DOWNE EAstward now followeth the county of DOWNE and that very large and fertile in soile stretched out even as farre as to the Irish sea reaching on the North side to the Lake Eaugh by a new name called Logh Sidney and on the South to the county of Louth from which the river Newry severeth it Upon this river in the very first entrance into this shire within our remembrance Sir Nicolas Bagnall Mareschall of Ireland who by his conduct atchieved here divers exploits and reduced the country to more civility built and fortified a towne of the same name Hard by it the river called Banthelesse issuing out of the desert mountaines of Mourne passeth through the country of Eaugh which belongeth to the family of Mac Gynnis Betweene whom and the O Neals who tyrannized in Ulster there fell in times past a controversie whether they were vassals to O Neal and whether they should find their followers and souldiers victuals c. this kind of service they call Bonoghty This hath unto it an Episcopall See at Dromore above which at the edge of Logh Eaugh are the tracts of Kilwlto and Kilwarny much encombred with woods and bogges These lye inwardly but by the maritime coast the sea doth so wind it selfe in and with sundry Creeks and Bayes encroach within the land yea and the Logh and Lake dilateth it selfe beside Dyffrin a valley full of woods the inheritance in old time of the Mandevils afterwards of the Whites in such sort that it maketh two bilands Lecall Southward and Ardes Northward Lecall a rich and battle ground beareth out farthest into the East of any part of Ireland and is the utmost Promontory or cape thereof which the Mariners now terme Saint Iohns Foreland Ptolomee calleth it ISANIUM perhaps of the British word Isa which signifieth Lowest In the very streight whereof flourished DUNUM whereof Ptolomee also made mention though not in the right place now named Down a towne of very great antiquity and a Bishops See renowned by the tombe of Saint Patricke Saint Brigid and Saint Columb upon which was written this rude riming distichon Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno Brigida Patricius atque Columba pius At Doun these three lie buried in one tombe Brigid Patricke and that devout Columb Which monument of theirs as the bruit runneth was demolished by the Lord Leonard Grey Deputy under King Henrie the eighth and sure it is that when he was arraigned for misgoverning and condemned therefore to death among other imputations he was charged that he had profaned this Cathedrall Church of Saint Patricke But as touching the Sepulcher of Saint Patricke the religious Priests were at variance like as the Cities of Greece in times past strove about the native country of the Poet Homer These of Downe challenge it to themselves and that upon the authoritie of the verses aforesaid Those of Armagh put in their claime out of the words of Saint Bernard which erewhile I alledged The Monkes of Glastenbury in England averred it to be with them and that out of the old Records and Evidences of their Abbey and some Scots have likewise avouched that as he was borne neere unto Glasco so likewise he was enterred there at Kirk-Patrick Into this Down Sir Iohn Curcy that Martiall Englishman and for a Warrior extraordinarily devout to Godward after hee had brought this country in subjection unto him was the first that brought in the Benedictine Monkes and he translated the Monasterie of Cariche which Mac Neal Mac Eulef King of Ulster had founded in Erinaich neere unto S. Finins Fountaine into the Isle called after his name Ynis-Curcy and endowed the same with lands assigned for it For before time the Monkes of Ireland as those of ancient times in Egypt whose maner and order that devour man Congell that is by interpretation A faire pledge brought over into Ireland being wholly given to prayer earned for themselves and the poore their living with the labour of their own hands Howbeit these Monasticall orders and customes as all humane things continued not long when their maners and carriage grew to be worse and riches had by little and little polluted piety which as a mother had formerly bred them Robert Abbat of Molisime in Burgundie studied and endevoured earnestly in times past to reduce and set on foot againe the said ancient Discipline and perswaded his owne Disciples to live with their handy labour to leave Tithes and Oblations unto the Priests that served in the Diocesse to forbeare wearing of Breeches made of woven cloth or of leather But they labouring to the contrary refused flatly to goe from the customes observed in the Monasteries of the West parts of the world which were knowne for certaine to have been instituted and ordained by Saint Maure scholar to Saint Benet and by Saint Columban But I have digressed too farre now will I returne againe By the sea-side stand Arglas where Saint Patrick by report founded a Church and Strangford called in old time Strandford a safe harbour where the river Coyn with a great and violent streame breaketh into the Sea Neere unto which in the Biland Lecale Queene Mary in her great bounty unto Noblemen liberally gave lands unto the Earle of Kildare And here of the English race the Russells Audleys Whites and the Bagnells who came thither last stoutly defend among the wild and fierce Irish not without danger what they and their ancestours won in these parts Ardes the other Biland called The Andes lieth over against to the North severed with a small chanell out of the Logh-Coin which on the West side encloseth it like as the sea on the East side and the Bay of Knoc-Fergus on the North. You may resemble it to the bent of the arme which by a very narrow Isthim or necke of land groweth to the rest of the Iland like as an arme to the shoulder The soile is every where passing good and bountifull but only in the mids where lieth out for twelve miles or thereabout in length a moist flat and boggy plaine The shore is sufficiently bespred with small villages and in times past had a most renowned Monasterie at the Bay of Knoc-Fergus of the same institution order and name as was that right ancient and famous Abbey in England neere unto Chester I
next County in order unto Louth Northward is that of ANTRIM so called of Antrim a base townelet of small reckoning at all had it not imparted the name unto the whole countrey which lieth betweene the Bay of Knoc-Fergus Logh Eaugh and the river Ban. This Bay of Knoc-Fergus which Ptolomee tearmeth VINDERIUS took name of a towne situate upon it which the English call Knoc-Fergus the Irish Carig-Fergus that is the Rock of Fergus of that most renowned Fergus who first brought the Scottish out of Ireland into Britaine there drowned This is well inhabited and more frequented than the rest in this coast by reason of the commodious haven although the blockhouses thereto be unfinished having a fortresse pitched upon an high rocke a ward of garrison souldiers to keepe the countrey in awe and good order with an ancient palace converted now into Magazin Hard by it lieth the Nether Clane-Boy which also was the habitation of O-Neales notable for the death of that most lend rebell Shan or Iohn O-Neal who after many robberies and sacriledges committed being in one or two skirmishes under the leading of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy vanquished and weakened was brought to that exigent that hee was resolved to goe unto the Deputy with an halter about his neck and submissely to crave pardon but being perswaded by his Scribe to seeke first for aide of certaine Scots of the Islands who under the conduct of Alexander Oge had encamped themselves here and preyed in the countrey hee came unto them who gave him friendly entertainment and presently massacred him and all his company in revenge of their kinsfolke whom hee had before slaine By whose death the warre being ended and himselfe with all those that went with him into the field attainted Queene Elizabeth granted this Claneboy unto Walter D' Eureux Earle of Essex who crossed over the seas hither and I wot not whether under a goodly colour of honour for chosen he was Governour of Ulster and Mareschal of Ireland hee was by the politicke practice of some Courtiers finely packed away into a Country alwaies rebellious and untamed But whiles with the expence of a mighty masse of money hee went about to reduce it to good order after hee had beene crossed and tossed with many troubles both at home and abroad in the warres hee was by untimely death taken out of this world leaving unto all good men a wonderfull misse of himselfe and this Country unto the O-Neales and Brian Carragh of the Mac-Conells race who since that time have gone together by the eares and committed many murders one upon another about the soveraignty of this Seigniory Neere unto Knoc-Fergus there is a By-land with a narrow necke as it were annexed to the maine which notwithstanding is called the Isle of Magie taking up foure miles in length and one in bredth wherein as some suppose flourished that Monasterie of Magio so highly praised by Bede whereof I have made mention before in the County of Majo Then the Glinnes that is the Valleys begin at Older-Fleet a bad road for ships and run out a great length upon the sea This country belonged in ancient times to the Bissets Noblemen of Scotland who when upon private grudges and quarrels they had made away Patricke Earle of Athol were banished hither and through the beneficiall favour of Henry the Third King of England received Lands here For John Bisset who died in the beginning of Edward the First his reigne had large possessions heere and under King Edward the Second Hugh Bisset for rebellion lost some of them But in our fathers daies the Highland Irish Scots out of Cantire and the Hebrides under the leading of James Mac-Conell Lord of Cantire in Scotland made an entry upon the same and he laying claime thereto challenged it as descended from the Bissets Howbeit Shan O-Neale having slaine their Captaine easily chased them away Yet returned they and in this tract committed continually robberies and outrages in cruell manner yea and maintained seditious commotions untill that even of late Sir John Perot Lord Deputy of Ireland brought first Donell Goran who together with his brother Alexander was slaine by Sr. Richard Bingham in Conaght and afterward Agnus Mac-Conel the sonnes of James Mac-Conel to that passe that they betooke themselves to the Queene of Englands protection and upon their humble suite received at her hands this county to bee held of her by service under certaine conditions namely to beare armes within Ireland under none other but the Kings of England and to pay yeerely a certain number of cowes and hawkes c. Above this as farre as to the river Bann all the tract is called Rowte the seat of the Mac-Guillies a familie of good reputation in their county which notwithstanding the violence of the Islander Scots and their continuall depredations hath driven them into a narrow corner For Surley Boy that is Charles the Yellow brother unto James Mac-Conel who possessed himselfe of the Glines became also in some sort Lord hereof untill that Sir John Perot Lord Deputy having won Donluse Castle a very strong pile seated upon a rocke that hangeth over the sea and severed from the Land with a deepe ditch dispossessed him and all his Which for all that hee recovered the next yeere following by treason after he had slaine Carie the Captaine thereof who manfully defended himselfe But the Lord Deputy sending against him Captaine Meriman an approved warrior who slew the two sonnes of James Mac-Conell and Alexander this Surley Boys son so coursed him from place to place and drave away his cattell the onely riches he had for hee was able to number of his owne stocke 50000. cowes so that Surley Boy rendred Donluse came to Dublin and in the Cathedrall Church openly made his submission exhibited a supplication craving mercy and afterwards being admitted into the Lord Deputies Great Chamber so soone as he saw the Picture of Queene Elizabeth upon a table once or twice flung away his sword fell downe at her feet and devoted himselfe unto her Majesty Whereupon being received into favour and ranged among the subjects of Ireland he abjured and renounced openly in the Courts of Chancery and Kings Bench all service and allegeance to any forraine Kings whatsoever and he had given unto him by the bounteous liberality of Queene Elizabeth foure territories Toughes they call them lying from the river Boys unto the Bay Don severig Loghill and Balla-monyn with the Constableship of Donluse Castle to him and the heires males of his body to hold of the Kings of England with these conditions That neither hee nor his nor yet his posterity serve in the warres under any forraine Prince without Licence That they keepe their people from all depredations That they furnish and finde twelve horsemen and fortie footmen at their owne charges for fortie daies in time of warre and present unto the Kings of England a
certaine number of cowes and hawkes yeerely c. THE COUNTIE OF COLRAN BEyond the Glynnes West standeth Krine which now they call the county COLRAN of the principall towne therein It lieth between the river Ban and Lough-foile and confineth South upon the county of Tir-Oen This Ban a passing faire river as Giraldus saith which the name also witnesseth rising out of the mountaines of Mourn in the county of Downe carrieth himselfe and his name into Lough Eaugh or Lough-Sidney a large Lake which name for all that after thirty miles or thereabout for of so great length that Lake is esteemed to be at his going forth in the end he resumeth againe at Tome castle and being beset and shadowed along the sides with woods by Glancolkein where by reason of thick woods and unpassable bogges there is the safest place of refuge for the Scottish Ilanders and the rebels and which the English felt who pursued Surley Boy whiles hee lurked here carrying a proud streame entreth into the sea breeding Salmons in abundance above any other river in all Europe because as some think it passeth all the rest for cleerenesse in the which kinde of water Salmons take speciall delight In this part the O Cahans were of greatest authoritie the principall person of which family O Cahan is thought to be one of the greatest of those Potentates or Uraights as they terme them that ought service unto O Neal the Tyrant of Ulster as who in that barbarous election of O Neal which with as barbarous ceremonies is solemnized in the open aire upon an high hill performeth this honourable service forsooth as to fling a shooe over the head of the elected O Neal. Howbeit he is not of power sufficient to restrain the Scottish Ilanders who to save charges at home every yeere in Summer time flocke hither out of those hungry and barren Ilands where is nothing but beggery to get their living ready upon every occasion and opportunity to maintain rebellions insomuch as provided it hath been by law under paine of high treason that no person call them into Ireland nor give them lodging or entertainment But this county with other confining is escheated to the King who gratiously purposing a civill plantation of those unreformed and waste parts is pleased to distribute the said lands to his civill subjects and the city of London hath undertaken to plant Colonies here THE COUNTIE OF TIR-OEN BEneath Colran lieth Southward the county of TIR-OEN in old books named also Tir-Eogain that is if a man interpret it The land of Eugenius which name the Irish have contracted into Eogain and Oen. This is altogether upland from the sea divided towards the sunnes setting by the river Liffer from Tir-Conell toward the rising with the Logh Eaugh from the county of Antrim and Southward with the Blackwater which in Irish they call Aven More that is The great water from the county of Armagh A country though rough and rugged yet fruitfull and very large as which lieth out threescore miles in length and thirty in bredth divided by the mountaines called Sliew Gallen into the Upper Tir-Oen Northward and the Nether Southward In it are first Cloghar a Bishopricke and that a slender one then Dunganon the chiefe habitation of the Earles which through the favour of King Henry the eighth gave the title of Baron unto Matthew sonne to the first Earle of Tir-Oen And verily this is an house fairer built than commonly they bee in this county but hath beene oftentimes by the Lords themselves defaced with fire because it should not be burnt by the enemy also Ublogahell where O-Neal that most proudly ruleth and oppresseth Ulster was wont to be inaugurated after that barbarous manner and tradition of the countrey and the fort at Black-water on the river More which hath sustained the variable changes and chances of warre whiles there was no other way into this countrey being the place of refuge for the rebels but now it is neglect ever since there was found another Ford more below at which on both sides of the river Charles Lord Mount-joy Deputy erected new Sconces when with hot warre hee pursued the rebels in these parts Who likewise at the same time raised another garrison for t called by his owne name Mont-joy at the Lake Eaugh Logh Sidney in honour of Henry Sidney souldiers now terme it which encloseth the West side of this shire and is made or much encreased by the river Bann as I have said Surely this is a goodly and beautifull Lake passing fishfull and very large as stretching out thirty miles or thereabout as the Poet saith Dulci mentitur Nâ—rea fluctu Fresh water though it bee A sea folke thinke they see And considering the variety of shew upon the bankes the shady groves the meadowes alwaies greene the fertile corne fields if they be well manured the bending and hanging hills and the rills running into it fashioned and shaped for pleasure and profit even by Nature her selfe who seemeth as it were to be very angry with the inhabitants there by for suffering all to grow wild and barbarous through their lazie lithernesse In the upper Tir-Oen stands Straban a Castle well knowne wherein dwelt in our daies Turlogh Leinigh of the sept of O-Neals who after the death of Shan O-Neal as I shall shew anon by election of the people attained to the dignity of O-Neal also some other Piles and fortresses of smaller reckoning the which like as else where in this Iland be no more but towers with narrow loope-holes rather than windowes unto which adjoine Hauls made of turfes and roofed over head with thatch having unto them belonging large Courts or yards fensed round about with ditches and hedges of rough bushes for defence of their cattell against Cow-stealers But if this county have any name or glory at all it is wholly from the Lords thereof who have ruled here as Kings or Tyrants rather of whom there were two Earles of Tir-Oen namely Con O-Neale and Hugh his nephew by his son Matthew But of these I will speake more at large by and by when I am to treat of the Earles and Lords of Ulster THE COUNTIE OF DONEGALL OR TIR-CONELL ALL that remaineth now behind in Ulster toward the North and South was possessed in ancient times by the ROBOGDII and VENNICNII but at this day it is called the County of DONEGALL or TIR-CONELL that is as some interpret it The land of Cornelius or as others The Land of Conall and in truth Marianus plainly nameth it Conallea The county is all in a maner champian and full of havens as bounded with the sea on the North and West sides beating upon it and dis-joined on the East from Tir-Oen with the river Liffer and from Conaght with the Lake Erne Liffer neere unto his spring head enlargeth his stream and spreadeth abroad into a Lake wherein appeareth above the water an Island and in
it hard by a little Monastery a very narrow vault within the ground much spoken of by reason of I wot not what fearefull walking spirits and dreadfull apparitions or rather some religious horrour which cave as some dreame ridiculously was digged by Ulysses when hee went downe to parley with those in hell The inhabitants terme it in these daies Ellan u ' Frugadory that is The Isle of Purgatory and Saint Patricks Purgatory For some persons devoutly credulous affirme that Patrick the Irishmens Apostle or else some Abbat of the same name obtained by most earnest praier at the hands of God that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life might here bee presented to the eye that so he might more easily root out the sinnes which stucke so fast to his Countrimen the Irish and withall their heathenish errours But seeing that this place is named in Saint Patricks life Reglis I would deeme it to be the other REGIA that Ptolomee mentioneth and the very situation of it in the Geographer implieth no lesse Besides this Patrickes Purgatory there was another Purgatorie also of Sir Brendan in this Island but since I could not finde out the place take here with you that only which I found namely Nechams Tetrastichon of it Asserit esse locum solennis fama dicatum Brendano quo lux lucida saepe micat Purgandas animas datur hic transire per ignes Ut dignae facie Iudicis esse queant If common fame say true a place of Brendan taking name There is and often times cleere lights doe shine within the same The soules have licence here to passe through Purgatory fire That worthily before that Judge they may at length appeare Where this river Liffer augmented by other waters comming unto it approacheth neerer to the sea it spreadeth out againe into a Lake which Ptolomee called LOGIA and now they usually terme it Logh Foile and Logh Der whereupon Necham hath these verses Logh Der aquis dives Lacus est Ultonia novit Commodus indigenis utilitate placet Logh Der a Lake in waters rich this Ulster knoweth well Commodious and pleasing much those that about it dwell Hard by this there flourished sometime Derry a Monasterie and Episcopall See where in the yeere 1566. Edward Randolph renowned for his long service in the warres spent his life in the behalfe of his countrey to his everlasting fame and gave Shan O-Neal who had then assembled and armed all the power he could possibly against the English such an overthrow as that he could never after recover the losse he then sustained But now of late Sir Henry Docwra knight who in the warres of Ireland quit him so well that with great praise he hath approved his singular valour and martiall skill brought hither first a garison and afterward planted here a Colony to bridle the Earle of Tir-Oens insolent pride and established and settled the same with so good orders that it both standeth in good steed for helpe against the rebells and also traineth the barbarous people to their duties The ROBOGDII placed above LOGIA held all that Northren sea coast of Ireland where O Dogherty an obscure Potentate had great sway Amongst these Robogh a little Episcopall towne retaineth the expresse footings of the old name Robogdii Which should be that promontory ROBOGDIUM unlesse it be Faire Foreland I know not From hence the utmost shores all rockie bend backe againe by the mouth of Swilly Lake which Ptolomee seemeth to call ARGITA Beyond these more Westward were the VENNICNII seated where Mac Rwyn Faid Mac Swyn Netoeth and Mac Swyn Bannigh have great lands and large possessions Among these Ptolomee placeth the river VIDUA which now is called Crodagh and the Promontory VENNICNIUM which they now call Rams-head and the Foreland BORAEUM now S. Helens head Upon the shore as it twineth backe from hence Southerly Calebeg affordeth an Haven and commodious harbour for sailers then appeare the ruins and rubbish of Sligah Castle which Maurice Fitz-Girald Lord Justice of Ireland built about the yeere 1242. when he had made himselfe Lord of this country But Iohn Fitz-Girald the first Earle of Kildare was dispossessed of this castle and a goodly inheritance in this tract fined also in a great sum of money for that hee had raised a civill and dangerous war against the Earle of Ulster Lower yet and not far from the mouth of Logh Earne Donegal that is the towne of the Gallicians of Spaine with an Abby sheweth it selfe whence this county when it was made a county tooke the name There have beene rulers over this territory for these many ages they of the house of O-Donel and those extracted from the same stock that the family of O-Neals neither had they any other title than O-Donel and Lords of Tir-Conell For the getting of which title and that they might be by a certaine election of the people inaugurated with their due complements at a stone beside Kilmacrenan they were at deadly discord and committed outrages one upon another untill that King James not long since by his honourable Letters Patents conferred the honour title and stile of Earle Tir-Conell upon Rory O-Donell the brother of that Hugh the rebell who being fled out of his countrey died in Spaine and this Rory his successour practising new treason against King James his advancer upon the terrour of a guilty conscience fled the realme in the yeere 1607. and died at Rome The ancient inhabitants of this Ulster like as the rest of all Ireland throughout were by one name in times past cleped SCOTI and from hence carried they over with them the name of Scots into the North parts of Britain For as Giraldus writeth about the yeere of salvation foure hundred six sons of Mured King of Ulster seized upon the North parts of Britain whereupon it was by a speciall and peculiar name called SCOTIA And yet it appeareth by the Scottish Annales that this happened long before Also Ferguse the second who re-established the kingdome of Scots in Britain came from hence unto whom Patrick had prophesied by way of divination or Soothsaying in these words Although thou seemest at this day base and contemptible in the eies of thy brethren thou shalt shortly be the Prince and Lord of them all And to avow the credit and authority of this prediction the said writer addeth moreover and saith No long space of time after this Fergus according to the Holy mans prophesie obtained the soveraignty in all that land and his seed reigned for many generations together From his stemme proceeded that most valerous King Edan the sonne of Gabran who subdued Scotland that is called Albanach whose posterity in lineall descent and succession reigneth there still The first Englishman that in the reigne of King Henry the second attempted this countrey was Sir Iohn Curcy who having by force won Downe and Armach
on every side but his enterprise was made frustrate through the valour of the souldiers there in garrison and William Sarfield Maior of Dublin who went forth against him with the very floure of choice Citizens Howbeit the neighbour Countries round about he harried and spoiled in all manner of hostility Then Sir Henry Sidney the Deputy to restraine and bridle the boldnesse of the man came himselfe in person with an army into the field against him and by politicke forecast sent before Edward Randolph an old approved and renowned Coronell with seven ensignes of foot-men and a cornet of horsemen by sea into the North side of Ireland who encamped at Derry by Logh-foil that he might charge upon the backe of the Rebels Which hee fearing came thither speedily with all the power and forces that hee had to remove him But Randolph in a pitcht field gave him battell and there manfully fighting with honour lost his life in his Countries service but gave him withall such an overthrow that never after he was able to make head againe and being elsewhere in light skirmishes foiled and by little and little forsaken of his owne followers hee was minded with an halter tyed about his necke humbly to beseech the Lord Deputy his protection and mercy But being by his Secretarie perswaded first to try the friendship of the Scots who under the conduct of Alexander Oge that is the younger held their standing Summer Campe in Claneboy having sent before hand Surley Boy Alexanders brother whom hee had kept prisoner a long time to prepare the way hee came unto them with the wife of O-Donell whom hee kept was kindely welcommed and admitted with some few into a tent where after they had beene in their cups they brake out into a brawle about Iames Mac-Conell Alexanders brother whom Shan had slaine and also about the honesty of Iames his sister whom Shan had married and cast off by which time Alexander Oge and his brother Mac-Gillaspic being hot set upon revenge after a signall given with their drawn swords set upon Shan and with many a wound hacked and hewed him to death whereby the Province recovered after grievous oppressions and warre the benefits of wished peace Within a while after a Parliament was holden at Dublin where by the authority of all the States of the Realme there assembled Shan was attainted and all the Seigniories lands and goods which hee and his followers had were invested in Queene Elizabeth her heires and successours And a law was enacted that from that day forward no man should assume unto him the name and title of O-Neale And yet shortly after Turlogh Leinigh a brothers sonne of Con-Mor O-Neale aforesaid tooke it upon him by a popular election being a man farre stept in yeeres and therefore more calme and quiet and so much the rather because hee stood in feare of Shan O-Neals sonnes and Hugh Baron of Dunganon the sonne of Matthew although he had given unto the said Hugh his daughter in marriage whom hee notwithstanding quickly after did cast off and repudiate taking another wife This Turlogh being most obsequious and dutifull unto the Queene of England put the English to no trouble at all but hee molested O-Donell his neighbour and the Scots of the Ilands and in an encounter slew Alexander Oge who had killed Shan O-Neale Hugh the sonne of Matthew commonly called Baron of Dunganon who had lived a long time one while concealed in his owne countrey other whiles in England in the retinue of Noble men began now to put himselfe forth and to raise himself out of that obscure condition when Elizabeth had given him command of a company of horsemen in the warre against the Earle of Desmond then in rebellion and assigned to him a pension of a thousand Markes by the yeere In that warre hee acquitted himselfe valiantly in all places against the rebells and at length exhibited a supplication in the Parliament house That by vertue of letters patents granted unto his Grandfather by King Henry the eighth he might be admitted to the title and place of the Earle of Tir-Oen and settled in his ancestours inheritance The title and place of Earle of Tir-Oen was presently granted but as touching the inheritance considering that upon the forfaiture and attainture of Shan O-Neale the Kings of England were invested therein the matter was referred unto Queene Elizabeth who most bountifully granted the same to him for his faithfull service performed and to be performed Yet so as that the country should be first surveied and laied out into severall divisions one or two places fit for garisons reserved and namely the fort at Blackwater that good order might be taken for the maintenance of the sons of Shan and Turlogh and that he should not be permitted to have any authority at all against the noblemen his neighbours without the county of Tir-Oen These conditions he most willingly accepted and rendred very great thanks accordingly promising to perform whatsoever he was able with diligence authority study and endevour in regard of so great benefits received and verily he failed not in his promise nor omitted any duty that might be expected from a most loiall subject A body he had able to endure travell watching and fasting his industry was singular his courage in warre great and answerable to the most important affaires good skill he had in martiall feats and a profound wit and deep reach to dissemble and carry his businesse closely in so much as even then some there were who gave this prediction of him That he was born either to the exceeding good or as great hurt of Ireland And such proofes he made of his valour and fidelity that Turlogh Leinigh at the Queenes intercession resigned up unto him his government upon certaine conditions After whose decease he usurped unto himselfe the title of O-Neal which by law was a capitall crime but excused himselfe colourably because others should not enter upon the farre and promised solemnely to renounce it quite yet laboured hee most earnestly that hee might not be urged thereunto by any oath Not long after when that most puissant Armada of Spaine which had in vaine given the attempt upon England was put to flight many ships in their returne homeward were cast away and lost in the Vergivian sea and many of the Spaniards after shipwracke were cast on shore some of whom Tir-Oen is reported to have entertained and lodged yea and to have consulted and complotted with them about entring into a secret confederacy with the King of Spaine For which practice Hugh Ne Gaveloc that is to say Hugh in the fetters sirnamed so because he had been kept so long in fetters a base sonne of Shan O-Neal informed against him and that upon no light but pregnant presumptions whom the Earle afterward intercepted and commanded to bee strangled but hardly could he finde any one that for the reverent regard of the O-Neals blood would lay
so often as there be any civill wars risen among them they sucke out of them their very marrow and heart blood These Nobles or Potentates aforesaid have their Lawyers belonging unto them whom they terme Brehons like as the Gothes named theirs Bellagines who being a sort of most unlearned men upon certaine set daies on the top of some exceeding high hill sit to minister justice unto the neighbour inhabitants betweene such as are at variance and goe to law Before which Judges the Plaintiffes with a pitifull voice make moane and complaine of the wrongs offered unto them the defendants stand firmely upon their deniall If any bee convict evidently of theft they give sentence either to make restitution of the same or recompence by a fine imposed upon them These Potentates also have their Historians about them who write downe their acts and deeds they have their Physitians also and Rimers whom they call Bards yea and their Harpers who have every one of them their severall livelods and lands set out for them and of these there be in each territorie severall professours and those liable to some certaine and severall families that is to say the Brehons bee of one stocke and name the Historians of another and so of the rest who instruct their owne children or kinsmen every one in their owne art and have some of them alwaies to be their successors Now among these great Lords and Nobles there is no hereditarie right of succession observed but whosoever of any principall house is of greater puissance in regard of strength retinewes of followers and boldnesse he by a certaine faction or election of the people in that province usurpeth the Lordship and soveraigntie over the rest quite excluding the sonnes nephewes and next in blood of the party deceased and so with certaine complements of barbarous ceremonies is enthronized in the open aire upon a little hill for that purpose appointed upon a Stone for a chaire of estate At which time also by a certaine law called Tanistry there is sometime nominated and declared a successour who is termed Tanist I wote not whether by a word borrowed from the Danes among whom as among the Northren inhabitants of Britaine Thane was a long time used for a noble man and the Kings especiall officer But whereas I have incidently hapned of better observations concerning this Brehon law and Tanistry diligently collected by Sir Iohn Davis his Majesties Atturney generall in Ireland I hope I may with his good leave impart some of them to publicke knowledge in his owne words The severall countries or territories possessed by the Irishrie were in number 60. and upwards and some being greater and some lesse did in extent and scope of land contain two parts of the Kingdome at least in every one of these countries there was a chiefe Lord or Captaine and under him a Tanist which was his successor apparent both these were elected of the country who commonly made choice of such as were most active and had most swordmen and followers depending upon him The chiefe Lord had certaine lands in Demesne which were called his Loghtii or mensall lands in Demesne where he placed his principall officers namely his Brehon his Marshall his Cupbearer his Physitian his Surgeon his Chronicler his Rimer and others which offices and professions were hereditarie and peculiar to certaine septs and families Hee had also small rents of money and Cowes and customarie duties of Oate-meale Butter and the like out of the lands in the Countrie except the lands of the Church and such of his kinsmen and followers to whom he granted a speciall discharge or freedome Besides he had a generall tallage or cutting high or low at his pleasure upon all the inheritance which hee tooke commonly when he made warre either with his neighbours or against the Crowne of England or made a journey to the State or gave any entertainment so as the whole profits of the countrie were at his disposition when hee listed and so made the inhabitants like the villaines of England upon whom their Lords had power Tallier Haut and Bas as the phrase of our law is whereupon the English call this kind of exaction by the name of cutting This chiefe Lord had his Cosharies upon his tenants that is he and his would lie upon them untill they had eate up all their provisions he would likewise imploy upon them his horsemen his kernes his horse boyes his dogges boyes and the like to be fed and maintained by them which kept the poore people in continuall slaverie and beggerie The Tanist had also a speciall portion of land and certaine Chiefrie proper to the Tanist and within the limits of his portion he had also his cuttings and his Coshiries the rest of the land being distributed among severall septs every sept had a Chiefe or Canfinie as they called him with a Tanist of that sept both which were chosen by the chiefe Lord or Captaine of the countrie and had likewise their severall portions and Chiefries These Captainships or Chiefries were not partable but were entirely enjoyed by such as were elected thereunto All the rest of the lands except the portions of the Cheifes and Tanists descended in course of Gavelkind and were partable among the Males onely in which division the Bastards had their portions as well as the Legitimate For offences and matters criminall none was so hainous or of so high a nature as that it was capitall for treason against the chiefe Lord and murder were fineable the fine they called an Ericke which was assessed by the Lord and his Brehons In case of treason the Lord had all the fine in case of murder the Lord had one moitie and the kindred of the partie slaine the other moitie so as they never forfeited their possessions or their lands for any offence Howbeit their lands were seised by the Lord for their fines untill the same were levied thereupon and then restored Rape was finable in like sort but theft deserved praise and reward if the stealth were brought into the countrie because the Lord had a share and the countrie thereby became the richer But the theft committed in the countrie and carried out if the thiefe were apprehended before his friend made offer of his fine hee was commonly punished with death But the Lord in that case might take an Erick if he would Upon the stealth of any cattell if the owner followed the tract wherein the Irish are incredible cunning insomuch as they will find the same by the bruising of a grasse in the summer time if the party unto whose land the tract is brought cannot make it off to some other land he is to answer the stealth to the owner And this being an Irish law or custome is at this day observed both by the English and Irish the same being ratified by an act of Counsell in the Earle of Sussex his government as fit and necessarie for that
was fiercely set upon by Mac-Carton the which Mac-Carton verily having encountred with the said Justice spoiled him of his clothes mony utensils silver plate and horses yea and slew some of his men But in the end the foresaid Justice with the helpe of the men of Ergale got the victory and entred into the parts of Ulster MCCCXLV The seventh of Iune a common Parliament was holden at Dublin unto which the Lord Moris Fitz Thomas came not Item the Lord Ralph Ufford Justice of Ireland after the feast of S. John Baptist with the Kings standard raised yet without the assent of the Elders of the land against the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond marcheth forthwith into Mounster and there seized into the Kings hands the Earles lands and these lands so seized letteth out to farme unto others for a certain yeerly rent to be carried unto the King Item the said Justice being in the parts of Mounster delivered unto Sir William Burton Knight two writs the one whereof the said William should deliver unto the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Kildare the contents of which was this That upon paine of forfeiting all his lands he should with all speed repaire unto him to aid the King and him with a strong power Now in the other writ contained it was that the said Sir William should apprehend the said Earle of Kildare and so apprehended commit him to prison But Sir William seeing that this could not possibly be brought about and effected accordingly by himselfe with colourable words framed for the nonce perswaded the said Earle whiles he was preparing himselfe with his army and levying a power unto the foresaid Justice that before his departure out of the countrey hee should repaire unto the Kings Counsell at Dublin and that by the unanimity and joint counsell of the same so deale as to provide for the safe keeping of his owne lands in his absence and if after that any hurt should befall unto his lands whiles he was absent it should be imputed unto the Kings counsell and not to him The Earle therefore giving credit unto the Knights words and thinking of no treacherous practice in this behalfe disposed and addressed himself to come unto Dublin When he was come altogether ignorant of any treachery toward whiles himselfe sat in consultation with others of the King Councell in the Exchequer-court sodainly he was by the said Sir William betraied attached or arrested and apprehended and brought to the castle of the said city and there clapt up in prison Item the said Justice entred with his army the parts of O. Comill in Mounster and by a treacherous device taketh two castles of the Earle of Desmonds to wit the castle of Yniskisty and the castle of the Iland in which castle of the Iland thus taken the Knights being within the said castle namely Sir Eustacele Bâ—re Sir William Graunt and Sir Iohn Cotterell were first drawne and afterward in October openly hanged untill they were dead Also the said Earle of Desmond with some other of his Knights were by the said Justice banished The foresaid Justice having attchieved these exploits in Mounster returned in the moneth of November with his company unto his wife then great with child remaining at Kilmaynon which is neere to Dublin over and beside those things which had beene done against the Laity by inditing and emprisoning some of them and turning them out of their goods he also caused the Ecclesiasticall persons as well Priests as Clerkes to be endited and standing endited attached and imprisoned them and fetched no small summes of money out of their purses Item as touching the grants and demises of their lands to wit whom before hee had deprived of their lands he bestowed the same upon divers tenants as hath beene said as also the very writings concerning those grants so sealed as they were by him and with the Kings seale he revoked tooke the same from them cancelled defaced and wholly annulled them Item all the mainpernours of the said Earle of Desmond in number twenty sixe as well Earles as Barons Knights and others of the countrey whose names be these to wit Lord William Burke Earle of Ulster Lord Iames Botiller Earle of Ormond Sir Richard Tuit Knight Sir Eustace Le Poer Knight Sir Gerald De Rochfort Knight Sir Iohn Fitz-Robert Poer Knight Sir Robert Barry Knight Sir Moris Fitz-Gerald Knight Sir Iohn Wellesley Knight Sir Walter Lenfaunt Knight Sir Roger de la Rokell Knight Sir Henry Traharn Knight Sir Roger Pover Knight Sir Iohn Lenfaunt Knight Sir Roger Pover Knight Sir Matthew Fitz-Henry Knight Sir Richard Wallis Knight Sir Edward Burk Knight the sonne of the Earle of Ulster David Barry William Fitz-Gerald Fulke Ash Robert Fitz-Moris Henry Barkley Iohn Fitz-George Roch and Thomas de Lees de Burgh their own travels and proper expences which some of them with the said Justice in his warre had beene at and in pursuing the said Earle of Desmond notwithstanding he by definitive sentence deprived of their lands and dis-inherited and awarded their bodies to the Kings pleasure excepting foure persons only of all the foresaid sureties whose names be these William Burk Earle of Ulster Iames Botiller Earle of Ormond c. MCCCXLVI Upon Palme-Sunday which fell out to be the ninth day of Aprill the above named Lord Ralph Ufford Justice of Ireland went the way of all flesh for whose death his owne dependants together with his wife sorrowed not a little for whose death also the loiall subjects of Ireland rejoice no lesse The Clergy and people both of the land for joy of his departure out of this life with merry hearts doe leap and celebrate a solemn feast of Easter At whose death the floods ceased and the distemperature of the aire had an end and in one word the common sort truely and heartily praise the onely Son of God Well when this Justice now dead was once fast folded within a sheet and a coffin of lead the foresaid Countesse with his treasure not worthy to be bestowed among such holy reliques in horrible griefe of heart conveied his bowels over into England there to be enterred And againe in the month of May and on the second day of the same month behold a prodigious wonder sent no doubt miraculously from God above For lo she that before at her comming entred the city of Dublin so gloriously with the Kings armes and ensignes attended upon with a number of souldiers in her guard and traine along the streets of the said city and so from that time forward a small while though it were living royally with her friends about her like a Queen in the Iland of Ireland now at her going forth of the same city privily by a posternegate of the castle to avoid the clamour of the common people calling upon her for debts in her retire homeward to her owne countrey departed in disgrace sad and mournfull with the dolefull badges of death sorrow and heavinesse Item after the
propriety but by turnes hee taketh for to use whomsoever hee fancieth whereby hee neither can have his wish nor hope of children Of these Islands the common people affirmeth there bee 44. whereas in truth there are many more Pliny wrote that there were 30. of them But Ptolomee reckoneth up but five The first is RICINA Pliny calleth it RICNEA Antoninus RIDUNA now termed Racline and I think it should be read in Antonine Riclina for cl easily maketh a d by joining a c at the backe unto it A small Iland this is butting full upon Ireland knowne unto the ancient writers for that it lieth in the very narrow sea betweene Ireland and Scotland famous at this day for no cause else but for the overthrow and slaughter of the Scottish Irish who otherwhiles possessed themselves of it and were thrust out by the English under the conduct of Sir William Norris in the yeere 1575. The next is EPIDIUM which by the name I would ghesse with that excellent Geographer Gerard Mercator lay neere unto the promontorie of the Epidii and to the shore And seeing there standeth apparently in the same situation an Iland called Ila of good largenesse and of a fruitfull plaine and champion soile I dare avouch that this was Epidium or the Isle of the Epidii for in some places it is read 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This carrieth in length 24. miles and is 16. miles broad so plentifull of cattell wheat and heards of red deere that it was the second seat next unto Man for the King of the Ilands as it is at this day of the Mac-Connels who herein have their Castle at Dunyweg Betwixt Ila and Scotland lieth Iona which Bede tearmeth Hy and Hu given by the Picts unto the Scottish Monkes for propagating and preaching of the Gospell among them where stood a Monasterie famous by reason of the Scottish Kings tombes and the frequent conversing of holy men therein among whom Columba the Apostle of the Picts was the principall of whose Cell the Iland also is called Columb-Kill like as the man also himselfe by a compound name was termed Columbkill as Bede witnesseth And here at length as some will have it a Bishops seat was ordained in Sodore a little towne whence all the Iles were also called Sodorensis for that it is reckoned to be in his Diocesse Then have you MALEOS that Ptolomee writeth of now called Mula whereof Plinie seemeth to make mention when hee saith Mella is reported to bee 25. miles larger than the rest For so we read in the most ancient edition of Plinie printed at Venice whereas in the Vulgar copies in steed of Reliquarum Mella is read Reliquarum nulla that is None of the rest c. The Eastern HEBUDA now called Skie from hence lieth out in a great length over against the shore or coast of Scotland the Westerne HEBUDA bending more Westward is now called Lewis the Lord whereof is Mac-Cloyd and in the ancient history of Man is named Lodhus full of steep and craggie little hills stony and very slenderly inhabited howbeit the largest of them all from which Eust is dis-joined with a very narrow wash All the rest save onely Hyrtha are of small account being either very stony or else inaccessible by reason of craggy cliffes scarce clad with any green-sord Yet the Scots purchased all these with their ready mony of the Norwegians as I have said before as if they had beene the very buttresses or pillars of the kingdome although they reape very small commodity thereby considering that the inhabitants the ancient true Scots or Irish being men of stout stomackes and desperate boldnesse will by no meanes be subject to the severity of lawes or awed by justice As touching their manners apparell and language they differ nothing at all from the wild Irishry of whom we have spoken before so that wee may easily know thereby that they be one and the selfe same nation originally They that beare the sway and doe rule in these Ilands are the families of Mac-Conel Mac-Alen whom others terme Mac-len Mac-Cloyd of Lewis and Mac-Cloyd of Harich But the mightiest house of them all is that of the Mac-Conels who glory in their pedegree as derived from Donald who in the reigne of Iames the third stiled himselfe King of the Ilands and with all kinde of cruelty in most savage and barbarous manner plagued Scotland which notwithstanding his sonne being outlawed paied deerely as forced to submit his whole estate absolutely unto the Kings will and pleasure and had of his gift some possessions assigned to him in Cantire In the foregoing age of this stocke there flourished Donel Gormy Mac-Conell that is The blew haply so surnamed of his apparell He had issue two sonnes Agnus Mac-Conell and Alexander he who leaving this barren and hungry Cantir invaded the Glinnes in Ireland Agnus Mac-Conell aforesaid was father of Iames Mac-Conell slaine by Shan O-Neale and of Surley Boy upon whom Queene Elizabeth of her bounty bestowed lands in Rout within Ireland Iames Mac-Conell had issue Agnus Mac-Conell of whom I have spoken before between whom and Mac-Clen there was such a deepe and inveterate hatred that the force of consanguinity was never able to quench the feud but that they polluted themselves most wickedly with one anothers bloud From the Haebudes if you hold sailes along by the shore toward the North-east you may at length discover the ORCADES now called ORKNEY being thirty Ilands or thereabout sundred by the Ocean which hath his walke and current betweene them A certain ancient fragment so calleth them as one would say Argat that is as the same interpreteth it Above the Getes but I would rather expound it Above Cath for it lyeth over against Cath a countrey of Scotland which of the Promontory they use to call Cathnesse the inhabitants whereof seeme to be named amisse by Ptolomee CARINI for CATINI In Solinus his time no man dwelled in them but overgrowne they were Vinceis or Iunceis herbis that is With binding or rushy weeds but now inhabited indeed they are yet destitute of woods bearing barley good store and altogether without wheat Among these Pomonia famous for an Episcopall See is the principall called by Solinus POMONA Diutina for the length of the daies there now the inhabitants tearme it Mainland as if it were the continent or maine adorned with the Bishops seat in Kirkwale a little towne and with two castles it yeeldeth plenty of tinne and of lead OCETIS also is reckoned by Ptolomee in number of these which now we ghesse to be named Hethy But whether Hey which is counted one of these be Plinies DUMNA or no I could never yet resolve Surely if it be not I would thinke that Faire Isle the onely towne whereof for it hath but one they call Dumo is that Dumna rather than with Becanus judge Wardhuys in Lapland to be it Iulius Agricola who first of all sailed round about Britaine with his fleet discovered out
and flowes againe Suidas writeth that it tooke the name of Thules a King of Aegypt Isidore of the Sunne Reynerus Reneccius of the Saxon word Tell that is A limit as if it were the bound of the North and West But yet for all this Synesius doubteth whether there were any Thule or no and our Giraldus Cambrensis writeth that it is no where extant to be seene and the better sort of learned men are of sundry judgements concerning it Most of them have affirmed Island that is subject to extreme sharpe cold and continuall winter to have beene called in times past Thule But Saxo Grammaticus Crantzius Milius Iovius and Peucerus are of a contrary opinion Neither am I ignorant that the vast and huge country of Scandia is described by Procopius under the name of Thule But if that be true which the most learned Peucer hath recorded in his book entituled De dimensione terrae that is Of the measuring of the earth that sailers call Shetland Thilensel neither dare I empeach his credit then surely wee have found Thule and the matter is now at an end and questionlesse For this Shetland is an Isle under the Scottish dominion environed with other Islets and the same is nipped with frost and chilly cold lying open on every side unto bitter storms the inhabitants whereof like as those of Island use in steed of bread-corne dried fish and the same braied and beaten which we call stock-fish And although it have not the North pole so elevated that there is continuall day sixe moneths together as Pithaeas of Marsils hath fained of Thule for which hee is justly taxed by Strabo and this hapneth not to Island it selfe where there is in manner a continuall Winter and an intolerable settled cold Yet that a man should thinke this Shetland to have been Thule first the situation thereof in Ptolomee may induce him being set 63. degrees from the Aequinoctiall as Thule is in Ptolomee again for that it lieth between Norway and Scotland where Saxo Grammaticus placeth Thule then because it is two daies sailing distant from the point of Caledonia or Cathnes according to which distance Solinus placeth Thule also Tacitus saith that the Romans kenned Thule afar off as they sailed round about Britain by the Orcades lastly because it faceth the shore of Bergae in Norway against which place Thule lieth according to Pomponius Mela in which Author the reading is corruptly Belgarum littori in stead of Bergarum For Bergae a citie in Norway lieth over against Shetland and Pliny nameth in this tract BERGOS which I doubt not but it is that little country wherein BERGAE flourisheth like as no man will deny that Norway is NERIGON specified by Pliny But enough of this Thule which snow and winter weather as one saith hath hidden from the ancient writers and from us too I assure you neither is any of them able to say which of the Northren Ilands they meant when they spake so much of Thule As touching the length of daies in that unknowne Iland Festus Avienus when hee treated of Britaine translated out of Dionysius these verses Long a dehinc celeri si quis rate marmora currat Inveniet vasto surgentem gurgite Thulen Hic cùm plaustra Poli tangit Phaebeius ignis Nocte sub inlustri rota solis fomite flagrat Continuo clarumque diem nox aemula ducit From hence if one with pinnace swift along the sea doth saile Thule above the Ocean vast to finde he shall not faile Here when about the Northren pole the Suns fire doth sejourne The night is lightsome and his wheeles continually doe burne The night I say resembling day faire light makes soone returne Which Pomponius Mela likewise hath noted in these words Opposite unto the coast of Bergae lieth Thule an Iland much renowned both in Greek Poems and in ours also In it for that the Sun riseth and is to set farre off the nights verily are short but in winter time as elsewhere darke in summer light because all that time hee mounteth very high although his body be not seen yet with his neere brightnesse he doth lighten the parts next unto him But about the solstice there be no nights at all by reason that hee being then more apparent not onely casteth bright beames from him but sheweth also the greatest part of himselfe Above these Ilands the sea is tearmed The slow frozen and Icie sea for that it is so rough by occasion of heaps of Ice and scarce navigable It is also named of ancient writers CRONIUM or Cronian sea of Saturne because here in a British Iland as Plutarch recordeth there goeth a tale how Saturne is kept sleeping in a deepe cave or bottome of a golden pumish stone that he is by Jupiter cast into a most deepe and dead sleepe which serveth in stead of bonds that birds bring him Ambrosia the divine meat with the odoriferous smell wherof all the place is perfumed Also that he hath many spirits or daemones attending upon him as servitours who reverence him serve him and attend upon him By which pretty fable unlesse I be deceived is covertly couched by a Mythiology that there lye hidden in these Ilands veines or mines of Metals over which Saturne is president which notwithstanding are forlet and out of request for want of wood to maintaine the fornaces Now beneath Thule Southward the German sea spreadeth it selfe wide wherein as Pliny affirmeth there lye dispersed the seven ACMODAE Mela tearmeth them HAEMODES But seeing it is knowne for certaine that these be Ilands belonging to Denmarke in the Codan Gulfe namely Zeland Fuynen Lagland Muen Falstor Layland and Femerem there is no cause wherefore I should say any more neither of the Isle GLESSARIA or ELECTRIDA so called of Amber cast up there out of the Sea which Sotacus supposed to drop forth of trees in Britain But seeing that the ancient Germans called Amber Glesse willing enough I am to thinke with that most learned man Erasmus Michael Laetus that the Iland Lesse hard by Scagen or Promontory of Denmark was in times past called GLESSARIA Now within the German sea on that side where it beateth upon Britaine appeare very few Ilands unlesse they be those that lye in Edenburrough Frith namely May Basse Keth and Inche Colme that is Columbs Isle On the coast of Northumberland over against the river Lied one sheweth it selfe namely Lindis-farn the Britans call it Inis Medicante which that I may use Bedes words as the sea ebbeth and floweth at his tides is twice a day inundated and compassed about with water in maner of an Iland and twice likewise made continent to the land as the shore is laid bare again whereupon he aptly termed it a Demy Iland The West part of it being the narrower and left unto conies joineth to the East side by a very small spange of land and this part which bendeth toward the South is much
O OBrien 82 O-Brins 89 O-Cahan 114 O-Carell 69 O-Conor Dun 102.104 O-Donell 117 O-Hagan 109 O-Hanlon ibid. O-Kelly 103 Ogygia 62 O-Mahon 76 O-Maily 86 O-More ibid. O-Neale election 114.120 Earle of Tir-Oen 122 c. Oleron 232 O-Pharoll 97 O-Quin 131 O-Reyley 106 Orcades Isles 216. Earles 217 Ormond 82 O-Rorke 103 O-Swilivant 76 Ossery Earle 82 Ougans 88. O-Tooles 89 P PAlladius 67 Pearles 59 Pelagius an Arch-heriticke 111 Perot 103 Phelipot a good Patriot 224 Poers Barons of Curraghmore 79 Prestholm 20â— Preston 95 Professions hereditarie 141 Plonkets 94.95.96 Q QUeâ—nes County 86 R RHeban Baronets 86 Ridiculous conceit 75 Ringrom Baron 77 Roch. Baron 78 Roscomon County 103 Russell Lord Deputy 121 Rugge 63 S SAlmons 59.114 Savage 112 Saint Bernard 103 Saint Brigid 87 Saint Laurence Baron of Houth 94. Saint Michael 86 Saint Patrickes Sepulcher 110 Purgatory 116 Saint Owen 227 Saxons Islands 220 Scalmey 202 Serk 227 Scots 117 Shaving of Irish 107 Shires of Ireland 37 Shetland 219 Sidny Lord Deputy 97.121 Silly Isles 227 c. Slane Baron 95 Slego County 102 Small Island 201 Smyris a stone 225 Steward of Ireland 80 Spaniards in Ireland 75.77 Stanihurst a learned man 66 Steptholme 202 Stella Maria 230 Stockholme 202 Strongebow 69.87 Stukeley 94 Surley Boy 113 Sussex Earle Lord Deputy 121 T TAlbot 79 80 94 155 Tanistry 141 Thule 218 Three sisters 84 Tipperary County 82. Earle ibid. Tirconel County 115 Tirell 91 96 Tiroen County 114 Toam or Tuen Archbishopricke 100 Trimletstoun Baron 95 Twomond Earles 99 Tullo Vicount 85 c. c. f Turlogh Lenigh 115 Tutes 96 V VAlentia Baron 76 Verdon 97 Vernayle 155 Ufford 103 Vergivian Sea 61 Vescy 87 Vines why not in Britain 63 Ulster 104. Earles 117 Upper Ossery Baron 84 Uriaghts 114 Ushant 231 Ussher 94 Uske-bah 63 W WAlsh 91 Warren 86 132 Waterford County 79. Earles 80 Weisford County 88 West Meath County 96 Western Isles 215 White Knight 87 Wicklow 89 Wicker boates 59 Wolfmen 83 Y YDron Baronie 85 Ancient names of Places and Rivers in Ireland ARgita flu 117 Ausoba flu 99 Auteri 100 Birgus flu 84 Boreum Prom. 117 Birgantes or Brigantes 84 Buvinda flu 95 Cauci 90 Concaâ—i 98 Coriondi 77 Darnii neere Derrie 104.116 Daurona 78 Dunum 109 Duri flu 75 Eblana 91 Eblani 84 Erdini 106 Gangani 98 Hieron Prom. 89 Iberni 76 Iernus flu ibid. Isannium Prom. 109 Laberus 94 Libnius flu 91 Logia flu 116 Luceni 74 Macolicum 97 Menapia 89 Menapii 84 Medona flu 89 Nagnata 102.103 Nagnata ibid. Notium Prom. 76 Ovoca flu 90 Ravius flu 102 Rheba 8 Rhobogdii 115 Rhobogdium Prom. 116 Rigia 97 Rigia altera 116 Senus flu 97 Velabri 76 Vennicuium Prom. 117 Vennicnii 115.117 Vidua flu 117 Vinderus flu 112 Vodiae 77 Voluntii 104 Ancient names of the Isles adjacent to Britaine ACmodae 220 Amnitum See Samnitum insulae 231 Adros called also Andium 203 Axantos See Uxantisa 231 Barsa 227 Bergae 218 Birchanis 221 Caesarea 224 Cassiterides 227 Caunos 222 Dumna 216 Ebudae 215 Ebuda prima 216 Ebuda secunda ibid. Evodia 214 Electridae 220 Epidium 215 Edri 203 Fortunate Islands 217 Glessariae 220 Glotta 22.214 Hebrides 215 Hesperides 228 Ieta 223 Limnos 203 Liga 227 Lisia ibid. Mictis haply Vectis 223 Menavia 203 205 Mona 203 Monaeda ibid. Mula or Maleos 215 Nerigon 218 Nessiada 231 Ocetâ—â— 216 Orcades ibid. Pomona ibid. Ricina or Ricluna 215 Sanitum insulae 231 Sarnia 225 Saxonum insulae 221 Sena 231 Siambis ibid. Siade 227 Sicdelis ibid. Silimnus 203 Silinae 227 Tanatos 222 Thule 218 Toliapis 222 Vecta or Vectis 223 Venetica insulae 231 Vindelis Old Winchelsey Uliarus 232 Uxantisa 231 FINIS Fromispicii explicatio * Lady beth 〈◊〉 Mothe◠〈…〉 now 〈◊〉 Georgâ— Berklâ— See in KENT * Scutula â—hlongae * Bipenni See the Annotations of Sir Hen. Savilâ— knight upon this place in Tâ—cituâ— The Panegyricke Oration pronounced unto CoÌ„stantius and untruly entituled unto Maximian â—e natura Deorum lib. 2. Probus in Virgilij Gâ—â—gie * Aries * Gemini * Taurus * Bootes otherwise called Arctophylax * Vsually grow in hotter counries Zosimus Eustachius 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Panegyrie to Constantius Panegyriâ— to Constantius Fortunate Islands In his Commentaries upon Lycophron 1344. The first Inhabitants and reason of the Name * Aquitaine Brute * Vrbem Turonum In the yeare of the world 2855. Before the Nativitie of Christ 1108. Censorium The Fabulous Time or Age. At this day called Nether-lands or Low countries of Germanie He flourished in the yeare 1440. * Epist. 44. Descript. Cambriae c. 7. Bretanus Livius Augustinus dâ— Civitate Dei lib. 3. cap. 4. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 * Or Nations Origen lib. 9. cap. 2. Gen. cap. 9. 〈◊〉 Cimerii Cumeri c. * i. Welch men * or Welch Lib. 8. cap. 3. Phil. Melanct. Ad Sexium Pompeium Berosus Censure upon Berosus * Now France * Now Frenchmen THE NAME De Proconsul * Aâ—x Forcatulus out of the Annales of France * Now Castri or Salona 1235. Morimarusa * That is Welch * The Scite Erasmus Michael of Navigation * Or Candie * Now Barbarie * Where now are Holland Zeland Flanders Brabant Gelderland Cleve * France Britaines in Gaule * Britannos yet in some Copies of Plinie wee reade Briannos * Of Europe Religion Druidae * About Chartres The Doctrine of the Druidaâ— found in Britaine An Oke also in the British or Welch tongue is called Derw Lib. 16. cap. 4. Saronidae Dry. Barâ—â— * Welchmen * That is their descent from Pluto Their Republique or common wealth * Cassibelinus Their Manners * Old wives tales Ambacti Brachae Language I have made use in these words of William Salisburies Glossarie and another old Manuscript Divona * That is Welchmen Taraniâ— Hesus Teutates Tewsday 〈◊〉 Tuisday Lib. 1. Dusii Lenâ—â— Gaessatae Gessi Gessum Caterva Cateia Gessa Trimarcia Thireos Cetos Rheda Rhediad Eporedia Covinus Essedum Circius Penninum Apenninus Armorica Bauchadae Vargae Lib. 4. Epist. 6. Allobroges Glastum Woad Isatis Viâ—rum an herbe Lutteum in Caesar. Pomponius Mela corrected Coâ—cus Brachae Lainae Bardus Bardocuculluâ— Brance Pempedula Petoritum Guvia Betulla Dercoma Ratiâ— Scovies Vetonica Marga. Gliscomarga Tripetia Candetum Becco Galba Bulga Soldurij * Vowing to die and live one with another Planarat Taxea Sithum Cervisia Ale a drinke The Terminations or Ends of places Names 〈◊〉 Lipsius de Pronuntiâ—tione pag. 96. * Garumna * Arar Rhodanus Rhosâ—e * Montagnes de avergne or Cevennae Gebennae * Mile and halfe Leuca Stony Strond or stonie field Morini * Arles Arâ—late * Cadenaâ— in Quercy or Yooldun Vxellodunum Dunum * That is an Harpe Cytharistes Epist. 4. * Little Tartaria or Perocopsca The British Tongue Giraldus in his Topography of Wales * Welchmen Albion Britanniâ— Vide Ioseph Scalig in Caâ—ul The shape or pourtraicture of Britaine De morbis
Constantius Chlorus Emperour Baronius in his Ecclesiasticall History Helena * Venerable and right devout Empresse * Inne keeper or Hostesse Of the death of Theodosius Eusebius * Those in Albanie in the North of Scotland See Suidas why he was called Poore Constantine the Great Emperour Panegyrick oration unto Constantine the Great Gelasius Cizicenus lib. 1. Act. Concil Nicaen cap. 3. Pacatianus Vicegerenâ— of Britaine in the thirteenth yeaâ— of Constaâ—tine the Great Gildas The Roman civill government in Britaine under the latter Emperors As L L. chiefe Justices Grand Seneschals or high Stewards * Magistros Militum Vicar of Britaine * Comes * Spectabiles Comes of Britaine Comes of the Saxon shore Duke of Britaine * Resembling the Lord Treasurer * Comes rerum privatarum as one would say Keeper of the privie purse Constantine the Emperor Constans Emperour Athanasius in Apolog. 2. Magnentius called also Taporus * Comitem Angelus Rochâ— * The Emperours Gratianus Funarius Am. Marcellinus Constantius Paulus Catena Ammianus Marcellinus lib. 14. Martin Vicar of Britaine What torturing Instrument this Eculeus was seene in Carolus Sigonius De Iudiciis lib. 3. cap 17. * Lupicinus Magister Armorum * Now Bulgarians Rhutupiae London The heresie of Arius Gildas Sulpitius Severus These calleth Hilarius The Bishops of the Provinces of Britaine in an Epistle unto the Bishops Julian the Emperour Am. Marcellinus * Or Emperour Valentinian Emperour Ammianus Marcellinus lib. 27. and 28. * This place of the text is haply corrupted Theodosius Picts Scots Attacots * Called the sleeve * Ribchester by Sandwich or Richborow London called Augusta Civilis Dulcitius Valentine stirreth up sedition in Britaine Valentia Areani Gratianus Emperour Maximus the Tyrant Zosimus Orosius * Emperor Prosper Tyro * Treviris Gregorius Toronensis Cedrenus Zosimus Priscillianists Sulpitius Severus * Turonum * Bono Reip. Sulpitius Alexander Zonaras Zosimus Sisseg * Or â—udisti * British or of Britaine Procopius Honorius Emperour * Or exangues * Fastidius Genadius Chrysanthus Niephorus * Lieutenant or Deputie * Pure Tripartite Historie Marcus Emperour Gratian Emperour Constantine Emperour * Valence * Monte Genebre or Mont Cenâ—â— * Monte Mojore de S. Bernardo * Montagâ—â—â—i Carrara Lunigiana in the Countie of Tendar * Carragoca Nicephorus Callistus * As one would say Heire apparant Victorinus Rector or Ruler of Britaine * Bretagne little Britaine or Llydaw Zosimus Histor. Miscel. Gallio Ravennas Gildas * Betweene the mouth of Tine and Elen. Sigebert 〈◊〉 Anno 428. The English-Saxon-Chronicle * Yei called Gaule inter auxilia Palatina How the Britans are descended from the Trojans * The people of Auergne in France * Trojan * Burgundians Tacit. Histor. lib. 4. * Those of Colein and thereabout Ammian Marcellin sib 28. * Deputies * Regents TASCIA See in Essex See in Hartford-shire God Belinus * Ancient Inhabitants of France * Henbane * Welch Cuno * Welchmen * Vitrei coloris * Or Dabuni Glocestershire and Oxford-shire Of Arras * Or Gallena that is Wallengford Victoria Andate * Those of the County of Beaufort * In Octagono * People of Anjou or Angiers Solidurij Caesar Comment Soldiers Strabo * Sativis Appian * Pol-silver Numisma Census Dio. Cassius * The Emperour * Or Ploughman * Or Vsurpers * Or Vsurper Others read Laelianus * A kind of coine * Treveris * Solemnized every fifth yeare * Arles * Emperours D. 1. c. de auri pub proscent L. 12. 13. C. The de suscept praepos Gilda Saxons called forth into Britaine Carroghes Scitick vale * The Irish sea This Gildas here in the Manuscript Copies of France is named Querulis as the right worrhy Barnabas Brisonius hath reported unto me In some Copies AGITIVS in other Equitius Cos. without any number Kings anointed Pestilence Saxons received into Britaine * Germanie Ciulae * Germany * Epimenia Gildas * A song at their first setting out Bretagne or little Britain * Or Welchmen * Or Welchmen Cod. Theod. lib. 7. Tit. 20. * Britaine Britanniciani Armorica Haply Lexo vij in Plinie Zonaras Procopius termeth them Arborici and another calleth the countrey Cornâ— Galliae * Visâ—gothes Sidâ—â— Appollinar * Ligeris Anno 470. * French wriâ—ers * Venettâ—sis Gregor Turâ—â— lib. 10. cap. 9. * Amphiballus a sacred vesture hairie on both sides An old Glossarie Aurelius Conanus wheâ— also was called Caninus V.c. in an old booke Vortipor * Southwales as Caermarden shire Pembrooke shire and Cardigan shire Cuneglasus Magoeunus Cornwalis Britwales Welch Walli * Danubium * Welchmen Statute of Wales * Welchmen * Lib. 1. PICTS * Gallies or Keeles Their manners and demeanour Their name * Now Albanie Lib. 4. cap. 37. Their Language Dicalâ—dinij Vecturiones The manners of the Picts Blondus Honoriaci Bede * Reckoning the said day * Asterius Comes Pictorum Pictones Scota King Pharaohs daughter * Flower gatherer the name of an Historie Lib. 9. cap. 2. Ireland the native Countrey of the Scots Gaiothel or Gaithel and Gâ—el * Burbonnois * Welchmen * Welchmen â—allis Scythica In Hypodigmate * Lib. 6. * Lib. 4. Caribes Benzo lib. 2. Tom. 1. pag. 37. Whence the Scots came into Ireland Scythians in Spaine * Those of Biscay and there about Concani Lib. 3. * Russians and Tartarians * Capanillo Luceni * Those about Luca. Germans in Spaine De consolatione ed Albinum lib. 4. cap. 12. Vassaeus * Or Fankners Orasius lib. 7. * Flagella crinium * That is the Redshanks * Vpon Horace De arte Poetica Lib. 2. de bellâ— Gothorum Lib. 6. cap. 25 Diodorus Siâ—ulus An Dom. 77. Scot. Almans Agath lib. 1. When the Scots came into Britaine As also for their Etymologie in his notes upon Eusebius Chronology See them * That is Ireland See in Ireland and before Lib. 5. cap. 15. * Vnto Creâ—iphon against Pelagians * Emperour Beda lib. 1. ca. 1. Alban and Albin Albin Albinus The Albine Dogge Lib. 1 cap. ult Bede Attacotti Lib. 2. contra Iovianum * Ambrones Anglo-Saxons Who also is called Guortigern * Orkney Isles * Mare Fresicum Aurelius Ambrosius Gildas calleth him Ambrosius Aurelianus * Haply Martian * Brets for Britans * Picts Saxons from the Sacae in Asia Tartarie Lib. 11. Melaâ—cthon Cisnerus Michael Nâ—ander Axones people of Gaule * Elbe Zosimus Ethelward Son to King Adulph in the fourth degree flourished the yeere 950. Ode 2. of Leiden Spartianus Trebellius Pollio Capitolinus c. * Alias Danubius Donâ—w * Marmajore Angles or Englishmen Lib. 1. cap. 15. * Iutarum So readeth the Manuscript and not Vitâ—râ—m Angel in Denmarke the seat of the English or Angles * Faire De bello Gothico lib. 4. Saxons Angles and Iutes one nation Anglo-Saxons when they came into Britaine * or Aetius * or Register Fasti Consulares Baronius * Read Fusius * or battell * Elsewhere Decius Paulinus
part of the Shire Nature hath loftily areared it up farre and neere with Mountaines standing thicke one by another as if she would here have compacted the joynts of this Island within the bowels of the earth and made this part thereof a most sure place of refuge for the Britans in time of adversitie For there are so many roughes and Rocks so many vales full of Woods with Pooles heere and there crossing over them lying in the way betweene that no Armie nay not so much as those that are lightly appoynted can finde passage A man may truely if he please terme these Mountaines the British Alpes for besides that they are the greatest of the whole Island they are no lesse steepe also with cragged and rent Rockes on every side than the Alpes of Italie yea and all of them compasse one Mountaine round about which over-topping the rest so towreth up with his head aloft in the aire as he may seeme not to threaten the Skie but to thrust his head up into Heaven And yet harbour they the Snow for all the yeere long they be hory with Snow or rather with an hardened crust of many Snowes felted together Whence it is that all these hilles are in British by one name termed Craig Eriry in English Snow-don which in both languages sound as much as Snowie Mountaines like as Niphates in Armenia and Imaus in Scythia tooke their names as Plinie witnesseth of Snow Neverthelesse so ranke are they with grasse that it is a very common speech among the Welsh That the Mountaines Eriry will yeeld sufficient pasture for all the Cattaile in Wales if they were put upon them together Concerning the two Meares on the toppe of these in the one of which floreth a wandring Island and in the other is found great store of Fishes but having all of them but one eye a peece I will say nothing left I might seeme to foster fables although some confident upon the authoritie of Giraldus have beleeved it for a veritie Yet certaine it is that there be in the very toppe of these Mountaines Pooles in deed and standing Waters whereupon Gervase of Tilbury in his Booke entituled Otia Imperialia writeth thus In the Land of Wales within the bounds of great Britain there be high Hilles that haue laied their foundations upon most hard Rockes and in the toppe thereof the earth is crusted over with such a coate of waterish moisture that wheresoever a man doe but lightly set his foote he shall perceive the ground to stirre the length of a stones cast from him whereupon when the enemies came the Welsh with their agility and nimblenesse lightly leaping over the boggy ground either avoide the enemies assaults or to their losse resolutely expect their forces These Mountainers John Salisbury in his Polycraticon by a new forged Latine name termed Nivicollinos that is Snow-down inhabitants of whom in King Henry the Second his daies he wrote thus The Snow-downe Britans make inrodes and being now come out of their Caves and lurking holes of the Woods enlarge their borders possesse the plaines of the Noble men and whiles themselves looke on they assault they winne and overthrow them or else keepe the same to their owne behoofe because our youth which is so daintily brought up and loves to be house-birds and to live lazie in the shade being borne onely to devoure the fruits of the earth and to fill the belly sleepes untill it be broad day light c. But come wee downe now from the Mountaines into the Champion Plaines which because we finde no where else but by the Sea side it may suffice to coast only along the shore The Promontory which I said before shooteth out toward the South-west is in Ptolomee called according to the diversitie of copies CANGANUM JANGANUM and LANGANUM Which is the truest name I know not but LANGANUM it may seeme considering that the inhabitants name it at this day Lhein which runneth forth with a narrow and even by-land having larger and more open fields than the rest of the Country and the same yeelding Barley most plenteously Two little Townes it sheweth and no more that are memorable Farther within upon the Creeke is Pullhely that is that Salt Meare or Poole more outward by the Irish Sea hat beateth upon the other side of the Bi-land is Nevin a Village having a Merket kept in it wherein the Nobility of England in the yeere of our Lord 1284. in a Triumph over the Welsh did celebrate the memory of Arthur the great as Florilegus writeth with Iustes Turnaments and festivall pompe If any other Townes flourished here then were they destroied when Hugh Earle of Chester Robert of Rudland and Guarin of Salop entring into this Country first of all the Normans so wasted this Promontory that for the space of seven whole yeeres it lay dispeopled and desolate From Nevin the shore pointed and endented with one or two elbowes lying out into the sea tendeth Northward and then turning afront North-east by a narrow sea or Frith they call it Menai it serveth the Isle Anglesey from the firme land Upon this straight or narrow sea stood SEGONTIUM a City which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of some reliques of the walles I saw neere unto a little Church built in honour of Saint Pulblicius It tooke the name of a River running by the side of it which yet at this day is called Seiont and issueth out of the Poole Lin-Peru In which there is a kinde of fish peculiar to that water and seene no where else called by the dwellers there Tor-coch of the belly that is somewhat red Now seeing that in an ancient copie of Ptolomee SETANTIORUM PORTUS is here placed which according to other copies is set farther off if I should reade in stead of it SEGONTIORUM PORTUS that is the Haven of the Segontians and say it stood upon the mouth of this River I should perhaps aime at the truth if not yet should I obtaine pardon for my conjecture of a courteous Reader This Citie Ninnius called Caer Custenith and hee that wrote the life of Gruffin the Sonne of Conan recordeth that Hugh Earle of Chester built a Castle in Hean Caer Custenith that is as the Latine Interpreter translâ—teth it in the auncient Citie of Constantine the Emperour And Matthew of Westminster writeth but let him make it good if he can that the bodie of Constantius Father to Constantine the Great was here found in the yeere of our Lord 1283. and honourably bestowed in the Church of the new Citie by the commandement of King Edward the First Who out of the ruines of this Towne at the same time raised the Citie Caer-narvon somewhat higher upon the Rivers mouth so as that on the West and North-sides it is watered therewith Which as it was called Caer-narvon because it standeth right ouer against the Island Mona for so much