Ships like other things for sale Here are Mills of many sorts almost without number chiefly to saw Timber for Ships some to make Paper the People are subtil and very rich live sparingly on Butter-Milk Whey with Herbs and pickled Herrings and Rye-Bread some great Merchants live here others Insurers but most Ship-Builders and Ship-Carpenters Their Houses are very ordinary and built of Wood two or three Churches one ordinary one new built of Brick t'other lately enlarg'd for the Inhabitants encrease Here they build Ships of War upon occasion having abundance of Hands and can run 'em up presently Here we saw some few Beggars and except some Foreigners most French at Amsterdam we met with no Beggars in all our Travels in these Provinces The Natives chuse to be Out-liers rather than come to Amsterdam where they shall have Bread but they must work for it In our return we took notice of the vast number of their Shipping their Greenland Fleet makes a great show being about six or seven hundred Sail which breeds abundance of Seamen and employs abundance of Shipping but is not very gainful to the Adventurer for they often make bad Voiages killing but a few Whales the very Ships stinks of their Oil so we easily found them out When we came ashoar we walk'd along their Keys or Wharfs and view'd the Shipping that way they were numerous indeed that part of their Fleet which lies here consists of about fifty Sail great and small several new ones on the Stocks they are now hard at work to get them ready and to rig the rest to be early at Sea next Spring The States have here a great Magazine for the Navy and all things in great order and well preserv'd We saw the East-India Companies Magazine consisting of Ware-Houses and Cellars where are vast Quantities of Spices of all sorts the worst and oldest of which they sell first and send to their Neighbours Callico's Silks c. 'T is a large new well-built House with a Moat round about it and Draw-Bridges before it on the River is their Ship-Yard a very large one several new Ships on the Stocks some of a thousand Tuns all their own whereas the English East-India Company hire Ships for their Service The Dutch Company is vastly rich here and strong in the Indies where they say they are not only Lords of Land of great extent and of many considerable Islands but are able to bring to Sea in those Parts a Fleet of forty good Ships of War and on Land an Army of as many thousand Men They are really very great and formidable in those Parts having got all to themselves they have rook'd and worm'd out the Portuguese the ancient Discoverers of and Traders to these Parts and the English who have little or nothing now to do in the East-Indies and are like to have less as they manage Matters The Dutch East-India Company has a Sovereign Power and great Privileges granted them by the States-General are very Politick in their Conduct and Diligent in their Application and aim not at the making themselves and Families but the Company Great look to Futurity and consider the Consequences of Things they have translated the Bible and Testament in the Indian Language and pretend to be good Christians by endeavouring to plant and cultivate the Gospel among the Indians their conquer'd Vassals but prove themselves very indifferent indeed not good Moralists in their Negotiations with the English East-India Company and in their Treatises with the Indian Princes which they keep or break French-King like complain'd of tho' copied after as suits most with their Interest and Advantage They have a mighty Country in extent in India and have built a great and beautiful City and call'd it Batavia have fortified it like Amsterdam At that Place resides the General of the Indies their chief Officer who has Guards of Horse and Foot Court and State-Officers Privy-Councellors c. Power to conclude Peace or denounce War and looks much like tho' he be not a Sovereign Prince They are possest of Bantam and other Parts of the Island of Java are considerable in the Molucca Islands and those of Banda Sumatra and have Factories on the Coasts of Bengal Malabar and Cormandel and in the Dominions of the Mogul and Galcanda have great Commerce in Persia China and Japan and have routed the King from the Island of Zeylan and are absolute Masters of that rich Country while he poor Gentleman grazes it on the Mountains Thus they usually treat the Indian Princes who first permit them to Trade with them which indeed is their own Interest then they establish Factories build Forts which is weakly done of those Princes to let them and then bring Ships of War and a good Army and drive away the right Owners and take Possession for themselves tho' they would be loth the most Christian King should serve them not much better Christians than his Majesty so here in Europe tho' he might and would have done it if the English had not stuck close to them for which surely they 'll be very Civil to them in the Indies tho' I don't know when yet I hope no more Amboyna Businesses which I know the Dutch don't love to hear of tho' 't is an old Story yet 't is a very true one and I think one of the Cruelest that was ever heard of We took a view of both the Houses belonging to the Dutch East-India Company in Amsterdam one is the old t'other the new Part of the City Here they keep their General Courts of Sales and Committees meet to dispatch their Affairs there are abundance of Chambers and Offices in one are the Trophies which they have gain'd from the Indian Princes whom they have vanquish'd We were led into a Room and gratified with the sight of abundance of Amber greece Musk Tea and other rich Drugs and into another where were great quantities of Cinamon Mace Cloves and Nutmegs brought from their Magazines and making here fit for Sale by sorting as also mincing of them Abundance of other Rooms and Appartments we saw too many and too long to particularize It shall suffice that we present you with a very fine and remarkable Story told us just as we were taking leave and standing under the Gate A Private Centinel that carried a Musket and went hence in the Companies Service to Battavia having signaliz'd himself by his Bravery in many Actions was advanc'd to the Second Command in those Parts had Guards a large Retinue and liv'd wondrous Great flourish'd for a time but in the space of a few Years was reduced to extream Poverty and became a very Sot being uneasie in India he return'd to Amsterdam and having spun out some time and could get no Employment once more took a Musket on his Shoulder and went away for Battavia to try his Fortune a second time which seldom favours the Aged but usually is lavish of her Graces to the Youthful and the
built excellent Painting of Game of all kinds on the Walls and Cielings the Lodgings are small but neat good Gardens curiously planted and made up a Park of six English Miles about five hundred Head of Deer a pretty Engine or Mill about three hundred Yards from the House which conveys Water through leaden Pipes under Ground to serve all the Offices in the House very fine Walks and rows of Trees about it which renders it indeed very pleasant Having sufficiently diverted our selves here with the Pleasures suitable to the Season we went back to Amsterdam whence the next day we took a Boat with Sails and crost the Riyer Y to Buyck sloot a village about a League off and went thence by Water in another Boat drawn with a Horse to Promerent a small old City two Leagues further which has a Vote amongst the States and is very rich in her Finances Here we hir'd two Chaises for two Days and gave two Rix-dollers for each we past through the Beemster Land so call'd which the Sea formerly broke into but was soon mill'd out 'T is very fat Pasture feeding yearly abundance of Cattel of several sorts which are brought from Friesland Norway Denmark and other Places lean and here fatten'd Many Country Gentlemen have fine Country Houses all round about adorn'd with pleasant rows of Trees and beautified with Paintings We din'd at Schermerhoorn a small Village on Fish because we could have nothing else nor indeed can we in any of the small Towns through which we travell'd but this amends they make us they are very new because always alive nay the common People love their Bellies so well they'ell not buy any Fish if they but only languish much less be dead At this Place we had a mind to have a little Butter melted thick for Sawce after the English manner which with much entreaty and many good words the only way to work upon those rough clownish People we were promis'd and in part had for it was thick enough indeed almost like hasty Pudding for they had put abundance of Flower in without which they can't that is they won't melt but boil Butter to Oil they say 't is then best being thinnest and goes farthest they are as I said before generally choice Cooks but then 't is only for their own Country Folks Five or six Miles from this Place lies ALKMAER Alkmaer which is one of the neatest and pleasantest tho' oldest Cities in all the Low-Countries being built in the Year 1550 't is very clean and handsomly pav'd we rid through part of it without stopping longer than to take a Glass of old Hock and away we went to Egmont aside Hoef three Miles off a sweet little Village there stands an old ruin'd Castle Thence to Egmont by the Sea-side about a Mile further a small Village of Fishermen whose Wives and Children were making Nets for their Husbands Service who were then at the Salt Water getting Bread for them so nothing is idle here Thence through another Village call'd by the same Name a Mile distant it lies along the Sand Downs here 's a pretty Church two Steeples and the Ruines of an old Fort or Castle the Counts of Egmont fam'd in Story are Lords of the Lands and Revenues all round about we diverted our selves with driving to and fro and viewing the main Sea and then return'd and supp'd and lay that Night at Alkmaer and the next Day took an exact and particular view of this flourishing City It was formerly burnt and plunder'd by the Frieslanders and Guelderlanders but soon re built by the Inhabitants and fortified after the manner of that Age but better by William the First Prince of Orange who commanded some new and strong Works to be added to it which prov'd of manifest Advantage to them in the Sige which the Spaniards laid to it Anno 1573 under the Duke D'Alva after he had taken Haerlem but they were forced to rise from before Alkmaer with Shame and Loss It is the Capital City of the North Parts of Holland and sends Deputies to the Hague and has a Session in the Admiralty and a Stock in the East-India Company and a great Manufactory in Linnen-Cloth the Country round about is very Fruitful and yields abundance of good Corn Butter and Cheese of which last they have here a very fine Market and the greatest variety of sorts we ever saw some made with Anni-Seeds some of Commin-Seeds other of Sheeps-Milk discolour'd with green all very indifferently tasted and in our Opinion the very best was far short of our Chedder or Cheshire we had also Parmesan-Cheese about fourteen Pence English Money per Pound which indeed is firm and well tasted but not so mellow and delicious as ours at least in our Thoughts nor are we partial We view'd their great Church which is of curious Architecture and one of the finest in these Provinces 't is neatly Wainscotted and well kept has a very fine large well-painted Organ which plaies every Day from eleven till twelve and makes excellent Musick And we saw their Stadthouse which is a neat old plain Building and stands in a fine broad cleanly and well-pav'd Street Their Fish-Market is well stor'd with great plenty of Perch Carp Eeels Popes Bleaks very large and Jacks but a few all alive and very cheap So having seen all that was Rare and Curious we mounted and return'd to Amsterdam where we spent two or three Days in finishing our Observations and in buying some Toies and fine Things of which they have abundance to present our Friends at our Return we left this renown'd City and pass'd through Haerlem and the Hague once more and so to Rotterdam where we staid two or three Days more and thence went by Water to Dort a beautiful strong and rich City in this Province fam'd for the Synod held here about Religious Matters Anno 1618. to determine the Controversies between the Gomarists or Contra-Remonstrants and the Remonstrants or Arminians about Predestination which then made a mighty Noise in the World It stands on an Island at the Mouth of the River Maese and between three others viz. Merwe Rhine and Linghe ten Miles South-East of Rotterdam is the first that Votes in the States of Holland 't is well built and very neat had once the sole Right of Coinage but now other Places in these Provinces have got the like Privilege the Sea frequently breaks in upon it but more formerly and drown'd above ten thousand Persons and laid twelve Villages under Water and once seventy Villages and one hundred thousand People The Earls of Holland in ancient Times kept their Courts there it was also formerly the Staple Town for Merchandises Exported but has now only the Staple of Rhenish Wines with which they drive a great Trade and brew abominably mixing French White Wine and other cheap and ordinary thin lean and hungry Wines with that noble Juice that it has in a manner lost the very
War with England is put into a better Condition with a good Garison but they apprehend no Danger from the French the Land about it produces good Corn but not much The People here are less Courteous than those that live in the great Trading-Towns tho' you are not to expect great Civility from the Dutch who pretend not to much breeding some say the grosness of the Air influences them in their Manners and that the Moon who governs them Cancer being their Ascendent makes them Clownish but of this there is no certainty tho' the Sea-men of all Nations are observed to be as rough surly and ill-natur'd as the Element they live upon And if the Water has Influence why not the Air Here is a pretty little Stadt-House or Guild-Hall as we call it in London and a good Church founded Anno 1372 by the Countess Matilda for them and another Church for the English an Hospital for Orphans a good Market-place and an old and new Haven Rotterdam has got away all the Trade from the Briel About ten in the Forenoon we took Scout which is a little Boat with a Sail and goes every hour the Bell ringing to give Notice to Passengers as it does in other Places for Maezlandsluyce a little Fisher-Town a League from the Briel half an Hours sail with the Wind an hour and half against it 't is a pleasant Place they have within these few Years built a very good Church there before this Place lie a great many Busses or Fishing-Vessels which is their chief Trade and by which they don 't only live but grow rich as we in England might do if we were not infatuated most of their Busses were gone out to Sea to catch Herrings on the English Coast because the English are so lazy they won't catch 'em themselves About half Seas over we were met by some Friends of ours Dutch Merchants who came from Amsterdam on purpose to receive us which they did with all the demonstrations of Love and Joy we went a-shore together and got to the best House and fell abord the pickled Herring which was extraordinary good we made 'em swim in Rhenish Wine of which we let down a good quantity Here we hir'd a Waggon to carry us to Rotterdam which in our way we past through VLAERDINGEN Ulaerdingen a League off a small Village a Fisher-Place 't was anciently a City and well fortified but ruin'd by lying so near the River Maese which broke in upon it A League further lies Schedam a small City which has a Vote amongst the States and is call'd the Oldest Boldest Wisest and was the Richest in ancient Times wonderfully Couragious were the Inhabitants against the Spaniards now famous for the Fishery and making of Nets to catch Fish Three or four English Miles further along the same River lies Delphs-howen a small Town nothing but Fishermen and Marriners live here This Place with small Charge might be made impregnable as may many others in this Country by reason of its situation near so much Water Half a League from hence is Rotterdam a great strong fine Rotterdam and very rich City one of the most celebrated Ports of Europe the Second for Trade in this Province lying very commodiously upon the River Maese has great Commerce with England Scotland France when in Peace and Ireland and is much concern'd in great and small Fishery a very flourishing Place Here are divers Canals cut which are so well contriv'd and kept that the greatest Ships can enter and there lie securely and some Ships of two and three hundred Tuns are brought up into the middle of the Town where the Goods are deliver'd at the Merchants Doors which is a very great conveniency Erasmus the greatest Restorer of Learning was born in this City Anno Dom. 1467 he died in Friburg in Alsatia Remarkable was the Gratitude of this People who to preserve his Name and Memory have at their Charge set up his Effigies in Brass well done with a great Book in his Hand the Leaves of which he turns over as oft as he hears the Clock strike which forsooth is a Piece of Dutch Wit This Statue was erected as they told us in 1564 and roughly handled by the Spaniards in 1572. 't is now rail'd in with Iron This City is now wholly at the Devotion of the Prince of Orange now our King the People being passionate and zealous Lovers of his Person and Interest which they express to the highest upon all Occasions Here they brew good Beer which is sent to the Cities and Villages all round about they also serve the States Armies and Navies with it Turf and Wood is their firing the first is cheap the second dear and is burnt by the better sort only As we came near any of their Towns we distinguish'd an odd smell which comes from the Turf and is unpleasant and we believe unwholsom 't is stronger than that of New-Castle Coal in London These People are generally more obliging to the English than in any other Place which is to be wholly attributed to their frequent Conversation and Dealing with them Here they build very great Ships of War of a hundred Guns and downward We went on bord some of the biggest and view'd them well within and without they are not so cleaverly and neatly built as the English nor so fit for Accomodation but more clumsie but then very strong and sit for Service plain Paint and without any Guilding and very little Carving which is a superfluous and unnecessary Expence and which the English and French were once very vain in tho' 't is now almost worn out of Practice especially the Guilding which may be proper for Yachts and Pleasure-Boats but not for Men of War We saw their Stadt-House or Guild-Hall which is a very good Building and Saint Lawrence's Church which is a great one in it a very large old Organ the Dutch Presbyterians being not so nice and squeemish as the English who inveigh against the Use of that Musick in Churches In this Church are the Monuments of several great Sea-Commanders The English Scotch and French have also each a Church here Here is an open Place for the Merchants to meet in which they call the Exchange but no noble Piazza's to secure 'em from the Weather as at London We staid here several Days and sometimes din'd at the English sometimes at the Dutch and French Houses The Ordinaries are the best and cheapest Places to eat at for then you know your Expence which otherwise is at the VVill and Pleasure of your Landlord who Arbitrarily imposes upon you and this without redress for if you complain to the Magistrate he will give it against you and you must pay it they know you are led by Curiosity to pass through to view their Country not to live in it and you must contribute to the Support of it The Dutch are ill Cooks and verifie the Proverb That God sends Meat and
a Chamber at the further end the High Court of Justice from which no Appeals are granted and to which all are made The Civil or Roman Law is in practise all over these Countries This Village has no Vote among the States not because 't is a Village for there are several Cities have no Votes but because they did not send Deputies to Vtrecht when the Union was upon the Anvil The Hague paies more Excise for Wine and other Liquors than Amsterdam Rotterdam and Dort three great Cities put together as they told us and it has the face of Truth for here is the great concourse of Travellers Nobility Gentry Foreign Embassadors Envoys Residents c. And now and for some Years past of the Congress these are the Wine-Bibbers for the common Dutch are satisfied with a sopie of Brandy-Wine a Dram of that Liquor does their Business better it keeps out the Cold and the Fogs quickens them and makes them fitter for Action and indeed they seem to have some occasion for it for they are naturally slow and heavy but then very diligent and constant else 't would have been impossible to have finish'd such great Works as they to their Honour and the Safety of their Country have happily atchiev'd And indeed strong and spirituous Liquors seem to me to be more necessary for as well as natural to this Nation conducing mightily to the conservation of their Health which must needs be fluctuating where the Air is so foul Their Country is a Bog a Marsh full of Vapours and Fogs which are Earthy and Sulphureous and send forth unpleasant and unwholsom Scents and therefore their frequent Tippling ought not to be charg'd on them as a Crime especially by a Neighbour-Nation the English who have a better Country and a better Air and are in their own Natures more lively brisk and pert having more Heat more Fire within are as Cholerick as the t'other Flegmatick drudge not like them therefore want not the like Supports being lazy and idle People chusing rather some of 'em to starve than work Besides they Bumper it but seldom and at set and upon solemn Occasions and then forbear a good while or at least some time but my Country-men to their shame are always Sotting and Drunkening toiling at it and valuing themselves upon making one another Drunk indeed 't is a noble Atchievement to Fuddle the whole Company 'T is a glorious Conquest to leave 'em all slain upon the Floor as they call it Now the bearing of much strong Liquor is an argument of a thick Skull rather than otherwise which I find few very fond of at least none would have it if they could help it In the Afternoon we hired a Coach a very genteel one and the Coach-Man in a good Habit of grey resembling a Livery with a pair of handsom fat well-kept Horses we agreed with him to wait upon us the whole Afternoon which he did for about Eight Shillings Sterling and first carried us to the Prince's House in the Bosch or Wood about two Miles from the Hague 't is a very pretty well-built tho' old Box as we call small Seats in England with good Gardens tho' not now very well kept at the Entrance of this House stand Four whole Marble Effigies of William the First Maurice his Brother Henry and William the Second the present King of Great Britain's Father all Princes of Orange very curiously done Directly forwards is a lofty well-painted well-guilt well-floor'd small Hall with a Gallery for Musick all round the top of it and three or four small lodging Rooms below and several very good ones above one Closet of all true Indian Japan made of Cabinets or Chests taken in pieces 't is three Yards long and one and a half broad The Wall and Cielings all round beautified with curious Paintings representing the Actions of Frederick Henry Prince of Orange The Wood in which this little House fit only for Banqueting or a Supper in the cool of a Summer's Evening or indeed a retreat with a Mistress stands is very pleasant and with cost might be made much more delightful There is a pretty deal of Ground about it and well wooded but has no Deer or any other Game As we came back we rid by the Mall or Mell much like that in St. James's Park but not so neat or well kept being not so much frequented Then we were drove back through part of the Hague to Schevelin upon a fine smooth way pav'd all with Bricks and planted on each side with Trees to make it pleasant which was done at vast Expence being before all sandy Hills a little Village about two Miles from thence fam'd in Story for the Embarkation of Charles the Second King of England when he went to take Possession of his Three Crowns from which he had been long kept by the Usurper Oliver Cromwell 'T is a little Fisher-Place we rid along the shoar two or three Hours in view of the Ocean or Main-Sea where we observ'd some Wrecks on that Coast Between Schevelin and the Hague is a House of Myn Heer Bentink's now Earl of Portland it is but an ordinary old Piece of Building tho' his Lordship has lately added some new Lodgings to it but the Gardens are new and very extraordinary there is a very fine Orangerie and a new well-built Room or Green-house to preserve them in Winter and in the middle and at each end a great Stove in which great Fires are kept during the extreme cold Weather In the middle of the new Garden is a fine Oval Fountain The Garden is made up like a Half-Moon full of fine Flower-Pots In the old Garden is a neat Aviary and a small Moat with Fowl in it fine Walks and Figures and a Summer-House built upon an Artificial Rock Amongst the Principal Buildings in the Hague the House built by Prince Maurice claims the first Rank for 't is a stately One of Modern Structure Here Charles the Second King of Great Britain was lodged and treated by the States when his Majesty came from Breda to embark for England Anno 1660. The Dukes of Brandenburg Saxony and others of the Illustrious German Princes when they come to the Hague on Visit or Business are conducted hither and remain here during their stay In this House are the Pictures of most of the European Kings and a great many American Rarities In the Years 1672 and 1673 the Inhabitants were in great Pain lest the French who were then very near them shou'd have made 'em a Visit because there 's no Fortifications only a Ditch of Water The Trees round about it were order'd to be cut down to impede the French in their march who like very civil Gentlemen came not to give them the least Disturbance young Trees are since planted in the room of the old The Confusion then was such that they sent several Waggons laden with Money and the Publick Accompts to be secur'd in the Stadt-House
of Amsterdam And much about this time was the fatal and sudden Tragedy acted on the two unhappy Brothers John and Cornelis de Wit the one said to be the greatest States-man in the World the other an Admiral who had also serv'd in an eminent Post in the Civil Government The Populace rose and cut them both in Pieces without suffering them to speak one Word for themselves they always oppos'd the Interest of the House of Orange which was the true Interest of their State to which they were believ'd to be Enemies And thus fell John de Wit who was allow'd by all to have been a very extraordinary Man after a long Administration of the great and principal Affairs of this Republick Here are a great many English French Scots Germans and some of most Nations in Europe but more Germans and French than any Near the Town stands an Iron Cage seldom us'd in which are put notorious Criminals to be expos'd to the Scorn and Contempt of the Rabble We went to the new Church built not many Years since upon the very Spot where the common Bawdy-Houses stood which were pull'd down to make way for this noble Structure A happy Conversion Houses of Filth and Uncleanness turn'd into a House of Prayer 'T is adorn'd with Officers Arms and Escutcheons of the Nobility and Gentry They call it an Oval Building but I think it almost round it has no Pillars within so that all the People may see as well as hear the Minister 'T is a large Church and as they told us there is not so fine a one in all the Seventeen Pronvinces behind it is the Rag-street where there is kept a great Rag-Market abundance of Money is got by buying and selling that sort of mean Merchandize We went hence to view the great Church which is a good old Piece of Building with a very high square Brick Steeple seen afar off here is Admiral Opdam's Monument 't is very Magnificent he commanded the Dutch Fleet in an Engagement with the English he was blown up Ship and all he had the Folly and Vanity to carry a Broom in his Main-top as much as to say he would sweep the Sea of the English but they made a shift to send him and his Broom to take the Air he was a bold fighting Fellow but a Man of no great Conduct Then we were shew'd the Cloister-Church which is a large Pile built Anno 1399. And so to the French Church which was formerly the Chappel of the Earls of Holland they say 't is bigger than the French Church in London but we thought not so Here is an English Church or Chappel rather for 't is a small one very plain and ordinary The Germans preach there early in the Morning then the English who have the English Liturgy read to 'em the Auditors are but few we counted about Seventy Here are a great many fine Buildings fit for Petty Princes they are fill'd with Embassadors Envoys Residents c. We hir'd a Coach to carry us to Honslayerdyke one of King William's Houses in our way thither we past through Ryswick a little Village with a good Church a Mile from the Hague and a little farther another Village call'd Watringe as also the Seats of many Country Gentlemen pleasantly situated with long Rows of Trees on each side the Walk which leads to the House Honslaerdyke is about eight or nine Miles from the Hague almost the same Distance as Hampton-Court from London it is a very neat Piece of Building Founded by Henry Prince of Orange the King's Grand-Father about sixty or seventy Years ago 't is a pretty Square with a Bass-Court and very handsom Moat all round it King William has lately added some new Lodgings to it Here was always a Guard of Horse and Foot Soldiers without and Switzers within Doors who are lusty swinging Fellows with black frizzing Hair and great Whiskers they wear flat Caps and Cloaks and look big and handsomly for a Guard when the King was here The Gardens that belong to this House are not extraordinary they are well made up and neatly kept in the middle stands a Fountain eight Leaden gilt Statues and three or four Stone Images about it Here are many and long Walks adorn'd with Trees which front the House and make it very pleasant Two small Parks with low Pails and shallow Ditches about them a few Deer we observ'd no difference between them and the English here are above ten or twelve Couple of Hounds and a very large Aviary with great variety of Birds It was our fortune to converse but seldom with the Dutch tho' many of themspeak prompt French however we engag'd in Discourse with three or four Gentlemen led by Curiosity to see this House who amongst other things told us as their Observation That we had in England where they said they had been three sorts of Vermin we were glad to hear we had no more but demanding what they were they answer'd Parsons Physicians and Lawyers who devour all the good Things of this World they told us they kept their Ministers in due Bounds and upon the Level there were none rich but none poor they had no Archbishopricks Bishopricks Deanaries Prebendaries and fat Livings the States paid their Parsons their Stipend usually about One hundred and fifty or two hundred Pounds Sterling per Annum they kept to their Texts and never meddled with their Affairs of State or any Secular Matters but contented themselves with Admonishing the People from their Pulpits to lead good Lives which they themselves were good Examples of no sawcy Priests there to thrust their Noses into and intermeddle with other Mens Business if any of their Preachers happen'd at any time to make any Sallies of Zeal and touch the States never so tenderly they had a Staff and a clean pair of Shooes sent and were told they must troop off These Gentlemen also gave us their Sentiments of the English and Scotch Soldiers they own'd they were both Brave that the Scots wou'd and the English wou'd not work that the first cou'd fare hard but not the t'other the English Man must be well fed good powder'd Beef and Pudding and good Ale was his fare and if he had that nothing cou'd wrong him We went to the Place where they cast Cannon and Mortars 't is a handsome well-built House there were several Pieces in the Mold and a great many newly cast as also Mortars all fit for the Field thence to the Magazine where they lay up their Cannon Mortars c. with the Harness and other Tackle belonging to Carriages and Waggons The Streets of the Hague are very broad and clean Houses large and spruce without and very neat within even to a nicety which is often troublesome which chiefly arises from the Pride of being thought to be and admir'd for a good Housewife This Place is populous abounding with Gentry and rich Citizens many of which keep Coaches in a word the Hague is
Willem The Hip-bone of a Giant given by Sam. Mussenbrook The Arteries of the Lungs of a Pig Two strong Idols given by David de Willem A Cruse wrought in pollish'd Marble A Triangular Fish given by Mr. Husenbrook The Mummy of an Egyptian Prince above thirteen hundred Years old given by Dr. Jo. Baptist Bartoliti A Pair of Sandals or Slippers from the Kingdom of Siam in the East-Indies The Skin of an Indian Lizard A Pair of Russian Shooes The Skin of a Molucca Woman above one hundred and fifty Years old by Richard Snock A Lion's Head Two Images of the Japaneses given by Adrian Pauwe. A Cheeck-bone of a Dog-Fish A Flying Dragon An Urn call'd Vrna Ferulis Romana wherein the Romans preserv'd the Ashes of burnt Bodies the gift of Dr. Daniel Gyffus A Woman 's Pudenda with Hair of a great length An Indian Lamprey A Roman Earthen Vessel given by Dr. Dan. Gyfius A gilded Copper Idol from Siam A Roman Bean. A China Pot the Gift of Dr. Ja. Speck A Box of white Powder with which the Indians and Italians use to make the Hair fall off The Bough of a Tree fenced with Stone given by Dr. Harrewiin A Pair of Shooes made of Man's Leather A Pair of Egyptian Sandals the Gift of Dr. Ja. Leuven A Sea-Horse out of the East-Indies Some strange Indian Fish and a flying Fish A Roman Lamp which burns eternally given by Dr. Dan. Ghisis An Indian Sea-Spider A piece of Rhubarb grown in the shape of a Dog's Head A Basket wherein are Crocadile's Eggs the Gift of Pr. Maurice A Lizard The Liver of a Man in which is grown a Stone like a Ball. The Rib of a Sheep with three Branches sprouting out The Hearing-Organ of a Man China Figgs A Basket in which is Moscovian and other Country Money The Arteria Magna of a Man Some Egyptian Glassing or Cupping Vessels The Sceleton of a Serpent the Gift of Adam Bornius A Dish of Lapis Ossifragus or fine Bone-stone the Gift of John Boumanno An Indian Knife A Stone which was found in the Os Sacrum or the great Bone upon which the Ridge-bone resteth A Ball call'd Mansa found in a Cows Stomach A great Cassia Fistula from Brazil given by Prince Maurice A great deal of very large Amber the Gift of Daniel Beckler An American Bean. An Indian guilded Wooden Cup the Gift of Dr. Jam. Stellingworf A black Fly call'd a Beetle brought from the Cape of good Hope Some grown Coral A Cup made of a double Brain-pan given by Dr. de Bills The Brain-pan of an Ostrich A Puff or Mushroom of a vast greatness A Sceleton of a Child newly born A Sceleton of a Child but four Months old in the Womb. The Image of the Goddess Fortune the Gift of D. Gyfius A great Bone found in the Body of a Woman of Vlarding being ninety Years old A Sword-Fish All the Muscles of a Man very curiously done by Professor Stulpent Vander Wiel All the Muscles of a Child A young Hangman married under the Gallows Two new-born Children very curiously anatomis'd The Physick Garden is a square but small piece of ground very well stock'd with almost all sorts of Medicinal Herbs Roots Plants c. and other Curiosities the choicest Things are kept in Glass-Cases on the left-hand is a Room full of Foreign Rarities both of Sea and Land very neatly kept Then we saw the Printing-Press in the University Yard famous for the fine Characters of Monsieur Jean Elseviers then the University which is a neat oldish Building it has three Halls for Publick Lectures several Chambers where they take their Degrees upon the Table of one of 'em we saw Aristotle's Works and some Civil Law-Books the Professor's Closets are full of extraordinrry Curiosities The Students have no Colleges or Halls to lodge and diet in as in Oxford and Cambridge but board in the Citizens Houses their Tutors are very careful of them and diligent in keeping them close to their Exercises both at Publick Lectures and in their Private Examinations for which they have appointed Hours and at which they are very punctual 'T is a celebrated Accademy having continually in it about two Thousand half Natives and the rest Hungarians Grecians Germans Polanders French English Scots and Irish of which three last are computed about one hundred Here they take their Degrees easier and cheaper and without that Pomp and extravagant Expence in practice in England Here are but two Colleges and those very small not to be mention'd at the same time with the meanest in Oxford or Cambridge nor are they endow'd they receive their Maintenance from the Charity-Collections of the Dutch Ministers nor can any Students remain longer here than till they attain the Degree of Batchelors of Art Here is a high very Tower where they keep their Astronomical Instruments and whence they make their Observations and Calculations of the Motions of the Celestial Bodies This Place was built for the Use and Service of the Astronomers an Astrologers of the first they have some pretty Eminent tho' of the latter none that we could hear of that Learning is not in much esteem with them tho' if it were divided into proper Parts viz. into Mundane or General Affairs of the World Genitures or Particular Nativities with their Revolutions Directions Profections Transits c. Horary Questions with their Solutions and lastly into the Weather with its great variety and sudden alterations I say if these four Parts or Divisions were to be studied and improv'd by as many several Professors with a College and Endowment for that very Purpose set apart it might prove of vast benefit and advantage to Mankind there being many excellent Things in Astrology and very great Truths to be found out by a due application But Priestcraft is every where so prevalent that 't is oppos'd by those Gentlemen who think their Interest would hereby be lessen'd Here is an old Burgh built by the Romans or Saxons formerly a Castle belonging to the Prince of Liege some Years since repair'd and made a good Fortification of great Use and Service against the Spaniards in the renown'd Defence the City of Leyden made against them who besieg'd it Anno 1544 or rather Anno 1573 presently after Easter which by a Stratagem was rais'd the third of October following by the Prince of Orange who letting loose the Waters which were before restrain'd by great Dykes reliev'd the City and ruin'd the Spanish Army who by this means suffer'd an entire Defeat but now this Burgh is converted into a Garden with a very pretty Labyrinth in it newly made up and neatly kept It belongs to a Tavern and has drinking Arbors in it we went up by a very steep ascent of near a hundred Steps whence we took a view of the Country round about The English have part of a Church here Their Stadthouse is a good old Building and stands in a handsome broad Street This City is very Populous abounding with
They sunk in this Breach four hundred small Vessels fill'd with Earth and Stones for a Foundation to re-build the Wall upon and by unspeakable Industry and immense Charges at last compleated the Work Here we met with a very pleasant and remarkable Story from an elderly Dutch Man who entertain'd us with it till we almost got to our Journey 's end for that Night 'T was thus An eminent Farrier that liv'd near this Place having an Apprentice that was so very dull and stupid that he could not after some Years teaching do any manner of Thing relating to his Profession the Master being uneasie and unwilling to keep a Servant that eat up his Bread but did him no Service one day brought him before the Burgo-Masters or chief Magistrates of Haerlem and desir'd that he might be discharged from him urging that he was so great a Blockhead that he could not make a Horse-Shooe Nail much less a Horse-Shooe or set it on either The Magistrates ask'd the Fellow what he could say for himself against what his Master alledged he replied That he was above that Trade upon which his Master being ask'd by the Magistrates concerning the Youth's Birth and Parentage declared that he was a mere Scoundrel and that he took him in pure Charity his Father and Mother were Labouring People and but a little better than Beggars Then the Magistrates ask'd the Fellow what he meant he answer'd That he could drain Haerlem-meer easier than make a Horse-Shooe at which the Burgo-Masters thinking it next to Impossible laught however they discharg'd his Master and took the Youngster in private and examin'd him closely and finding he had a Mathematical Head they told him they would advance a good Summ of Money and set him at work which they did and when he had compleated his Engines he fixt them and in a short time recover'd a great deal of dry Land the Fame of which brought great Numbers of People of all Qualities and Professions to see this mighty Engineer and being told the former part of the Story they were surpris'd The Money being expended the Operator attended the Magistrates and gave them an Account of it and told them he could not go on except they would advance him more Money which they being mere Mamonists refus'd to do upon which he cunningly drew off the Work-men and in the Night destroy'd the best Engine in which the great Secret lay and which was made in Private by his Hand alone and pull'd out some Pins out of others and in a very short space of Time laid the whole Land under Water as it was before away he fled to Antwerp getting far enough out of the reach of his Employers who now tho' too late began to be sensible of their Stinginess and would have given double the Summ to have had their Engineer again however to obtain their End having heard where he was by a Letter he sent to a Friend at Haerlem they made fresh Application to him and new Offers which he slighted then they made use of Stratagems and Slights to get him away privately and by force which failing they address'd the Governor a Spaniard then in open War against the States to send him back who calling him before him examin'd the Lad about the Affair and finding how basely the Magistrates had dealt with him and what an ingenious Fellow he was refus'd to gratifie them then they attempted by new large and more generous Offers to gain him to come voluntarily to them to which at last he consented and being upon his Journey to Haerlem fell sick of a Fever and so died by the way and with him died also that mighty and matchless Project since which they have not been able to do any thing in that Matter the Water of that Meer being vast in its extent and very deep even to be Navigable for we saw several Vessels of Burden then upon it under sail About half an Hour past seven that Evening we arriv'd at AMSTERDAM Amsterdam a vast rich populous and beautiful City equal to most in Christendom the Metropolis of all the Low-Countries in North Holland in the Territory of Amsterdam once Imperial now subject to the Sates-General of the Vnited-Provinces It stands on the River Amstel by an excellent Haven tho' the Coasts of Holland abound with Sands which render their Harbors more difficult and dangerous to enter nigh the Zuider-Zee 80 Miles North of Antwerp 210 almost East of London 250 almost North of Paris 380 South-West of Copenbagen and 560 almost West of Vienna Longitude 24 deg 00 min. Latitude 52 deg 29 min. This vast City was at first but a small Castle and call'd Amstel taking its Name from the River upon which it was built and gave Title to the Lords the Founders Soon after the Inhabitants encreas'd and apply'd themselves to Fishing and were contented to live in thatched Cottages this Employment begat a Trade amongst their Nighbours and mightily enrich'd themselves so that the Happiness and Commodiousness of their Situation invited a greater Number of People to come thither to reside there which from a small and contemptible Village soon made it a very considerable Town Anno 1235 they had certain Immunities granted them by Florentius the Fourth after this they began to build 'em Bridges and Towers the Inhabitants also built new Houses in the Neighbourhood and then the Borough began to take upon it the Name of the City of Amsterdam which was then united to the Country of Holland and having receiv'd new and greater Privileges which were confirm'd by succeeding Princes they by their Trade and Industry became very Potent tho' as yet this City had no Walls but only a Palisado until Anno 1482. It surrender'd to William of Nassaw after a tedious and obstinate Siege Thus in length of Time is this inconsiderable Place become the most celebrated Emporium of the Universe vying with the greatest Cities in the World in the great number of its Ships and the conveniency it has of fitting them out it now drives the greatest part of the Commerce which was formerly carried on by those ancient and renown'd Cities Antwerp Sevil and Lisbon 'T is the Second City in the World for Trade and the First we are of Opinion for Wealth 'T is not so large by much as Paris or London tho' it has swell'd prodigiously of late Years in Bigness Beauty and Magnitude these noble Streets call'd by them Grafts or Canals distinguish'd by the Names of Carsars Lords and Cingel c. are wondrous fine the Fronts great and lofty good French Glass tho' no Sashes the Rooms large and stately Pavements of fine Black and White Marble good Painting but not much extraordinary Carving Silver'd and guilt Leather of great variety much in Vogue to hang their Chambers with every Thing and Place very neat and nicely kept sometimes even to excess and pretty well contrived tho' we speak without partiality not so well as the new Houses
Gay but what became of this Gentleman in this Second Adventure we were not inform'd but by this Story we took notice of the great Incertainty and Mutability of all Sublunary Things We were several times on the Amsterdam Exchange which is much crowded and which abounds with Business and great Merchants many of which by great Losses have gone off this War who correspond to and with all Parts of the discover'd World This Building is oblong of Brick and Stone far short in Beauty and Magnificence of the Royal-Exchange at London tho' as capacious being an old Pile has no Shops round about it above as ours nor about it below only some few inconsiderable Toy-shops at one end above Stairs The Merchants here take great freedom of talking of and censuring all the Actions of all the Sovereign Princes in the World and observe no decorum in their Expressions for which they are much to blame as we told some of our Acquaintance who thereupon furnish'd us with an agreeable and remarkable Story of a Dutch Merchant who on this Exchange talk'd very freely of one of the lesser tho' Sovereign Princes of Germany and speaking meanly and contemptible of him his Envoy incognito being present took notice of it ask'd his Name privately and set it down in his Pocket-Book it hapned not long after this very Negotiator had Business in that very Prince's Country and being curious to see the Court was met there by the Envoy who heard his foul Language against his Master on the Amsterdam-Exchange and who knew him again who demanding his Name found 't was the same Man and ask'd him if he remember'd such Words which he endeavour'd to evade but the Time Place and Company being told he was mute the Envoy told him 't was now in his Power to ruin him but he would not do it but dismiss'd him with this Advice Henceforth Commonwealths Man said he have a Care how you treat Sovereign Princes for the unmannerly Freedom you take at home might have cost you your Life abroad Nay to our knowledge upon that Exchange a sawcy Rascal a Broker had the Impudence to wish all the Princes in the World in their Rasphouse or Bridewell such Liberty of Speech do these wanton Republicans take and are fond of their Chains viz. their heavy Taxes and Impositions their Servitude being prodigious having nothing but the name of Freedom The same irreverent and indecent Discourse they have in their Coffee-Houses which is for want of good Sense and good Manners for in all the Conversation which we had and which was a great deal and with the principal Magistrates and States and Top Traders who are mere Merchants both in Private and Publick Houses and in our Passages from Place to Place we met with very few refin'd Heads except amongst the States who are for the most part very prudent sober and civil Men of stanch Reputation and great Integrity of good Families and not rais'd from Pickled Herrings and Butter-Boxes as reported by some untravell'd Sparks but two at Amsterdam viz. a Poet and a Civilian who were indeed very witty Men and extraordinary Company we were often with them they spoke French fluently which is very common here and we think more universal than Latin Milk-Coffee with Nutmeg and Coffee with Liquorish infus'd are much drank by the Dutch in those Houses The Government of this Renown'd City is excellent the Magistrates wholly attend their Office and look carefully after the due execution of their Laws which are the Life and Soul of the Commonwealth The Excise which is here general would be an insupportable Grievance and cause daily Complaints but that it is fairly establish'd and faithfully collected Here is a Senate of thirty six States men who continue in that Employment during life by a Privilege the Citizens have quitted who in former Times elected them annually but when their City grew vast the number of Electors encreas'd and often fell into Tumult which to prevent they have establish'd that great Council who fill up their own Vacancies themselves and chuse the Burgo-Masters and Eschevins Lord-Mayors and Aldermen who are the Chief Magistrates of the first there are four one presides and serves two Years the other three are annually elected These great Officers represent the Sovereignty of the City and dispose of all the Offices in the Civil Government keep the Bank and the Keys of that and the City Gates make all Issues and Payments have the whole Power and are the sole Judges of what is for the Honour Safety and Interest of this Body Politick they receive and entertain Foreign Princes and Ambassadors and perform all the Publick Ceremonies There are nine Eschevins of which seven are annually elected the Senate chuses fourteen and the Stadtholder King William approves of and confirms seven They are Judges in all Causes Civil and Criminal and are Men of great Integrity of a clear and unspotted Reputation their Pensions are small and their Port Equipage and Retinue accordingly they think it a sufficient Honour as well as their Duty to serve their Country The Burgo-Masters and Eschevins have it in their Power to make their Families by getting their Sons Nephews and Friends into Honourable and Profitable Employments The Schout is a great Officer like our Sheriff seizes Criminals and secures them and preserves the Peace of the City The Pensioner is like our Recorder being Learn'd in the Civil Law who informs the Senate Burgo-Masters and Eschevins what are the Laws and Customs of the Country and makes all the Publich Speeches Treasurers and Under-Officers there are in great number too tedious to mention The Government of the several Cities of the Seven Provinces is in a manner the same Then we went to Visit their Alms-Houses which are numerous and well fill'd giving Lodging and Diet to above twenty thousand Poor Thus much may be said in pure justice That the Dutch Charity is very great and extensive they are very liberal they give often tho' it be but a little at a time their Collections in their Churches are frequent and handsomly manag'd to prevent Reflections so gathering the Alms that one knows not what the t'other gives the Velvet Purse or Bag which is handed about being deep and not wide and to put them in mind to prepare their Coin a little Bell is fixt to the Stick to which the Purse is fasten'd and which they send from one to another through every Pew Children and Servants always give something These Charity-Houses are spacious noble large and well contriv'd we prais'd their Building and Conveniences and told them it was our Opinion Houses of that kind should be rather Commodious as theirs than Magnificent which was fittest for the Palaces of Princes and not the Hospitals of the Poor They have made Provision for the old Men and Women together and separately and for Widows by themselves then for Children of both Sexes who are numerous and neatly dress'd in party-colour'd Cloth their
upper Garment half red half sad-colour more especial Care is taken of Citizens Children tho' Foundlings or the Issue of Strangers are not excluded this Benefit of their Charity We saw their Bedlam a very neat old Building tho' far short of that in Moorfields but rich in Stock and indeed not so full of mad Folks as the English Here they have a Fool-House no where else to be found in the World not but that there may be as many of that sort of tame Creatures in other Countries and this may be said That how many soever there are without there are very few within these Doors 'T is a small old Building where there is good Lodging and Diet provided for these unhappy People amongst them there was a Woman that had the least Head we ever saw being much less than the natural Proportion Hence we went to the Hospital for Boies and Girls whose Fathers were Members of the Establish'd or National Church 't is a good well-built square Piece where the Children while little are kept close to School then put out Apprentices to Handicraft-Trades Here is an Apothecaries and Shoe-makers Shop wholly for the Service of this House Hence to the Spin-House the Prison for Whores and Thieves all were at work some making Lace others Plain-work some Spinning others mending Linnen some in for Weeks others Months and Years according to their Demerits Then to the Rasp-House which is a Bridewell where are secur'd those who have been near hanging and have escap'd with burning between the Shoulders with three Crosses the Arms of Amsterdam sometimes with a red-hot Sword on their Back to shew how narrowly they say'd their Heads and to caution 'em to beware of the next Punishment here after a severe Whipping they are doom'd to a temporary Imprisonment from three to five seven nine eleven and thirty Years some to perpetual all to bodily Labour to Rasp which is to cut with a double-teeth'd Saw fifty Pounds of Brazil a hard Wood for the Dyers use every Day or be drubb'd lustily with a Bulls Pissel and if that won't do they are put into a Dungeon and fed with Bread and Water or else into a close dark Vault into which Water is let which if they don't empty by pumping will soon drown 'em which soon brings 'em to work The Profits of their Labour are for their Maintenance and the Overplus to the Stock of the House or to be dispos'd of by the States for the Publick Good Here are also Houses for Vagabonds or wandering Beggars common Gamesters Sharpers Sots and idle Folks who are kept in this Place at hard work Then to the Gaasthouse where Entertainment is given at the Publick Charge to all needy Foreigners of any Nation four Days and as many Nights in which time they must find out their Friends or get Work to maintain themselves or else they shall have Work provided for them by the Officers which few like but had rather chuse their own Upon the Justice-day as they call the Execution here which is usually Saturday we saw a Man strangled which differs but little and that in the Word only from Hanging it is upon a Scaffold fix'd against the Stadthouse the Criminal is brought through Solomon's Hall where his Sentence is read as also on the Stage then the Parson prays with him and he by himself then mounts a little Cricket and claps his Back to a Post set up on purpose through which there 's a Hole into which the latter is put and so twisted hard about his Neck the Stool kick'd down and the Hangman all the while holding his Nose and stopping his Breath the sooner to put him out of Pain Another was beheaded with a broad Sword which the Executioner keeps under his Cloak till the Criminal is ready on his Knees and the Cap over his Eyes then off goes the Cloak the Headsman approaches pretending to pull the Cap a little more over his Eyes in half a Minute whips off his Head and very cleaverly Haerlem furnishes Amsterdam with the Executioner which tho' the biggest and richest City in all the Seven as well as this Provinces yet has not the Privilege to have a Hangman of her own He is a spruce Fellow and goes well in Habit and has Servants to attend him and is usually by Profession a Surgeon and Bone-setter as well as Bone-Cutter has a good Sallary from the Towns where he serves and lives comfortably tho' very few are found of his Company it being thought the worst in the World especially if he has a Parson with him At the same time was a lusty sturdy Fellow whipt for some lesser Roguery or Cheating which was done while the t'other Fellow was hanging and after this manner he was brought on the Scaffold with his Crime on his Breast in Capital Letters and led about then stript to the Waist his Hands tied and drawn up tight with a Cord to a Post then the Hangman took up a good handful of large Birch like that of Ostlers Brooms from a great Bundle which lay close by and slash'd him as fast as he could backwards and forwards then took up a fresh handful and so on for six or seven Minutes at which time the Magistrates who look on out of the Stadthouse Windows nodded to him to give over Vast was the number of Spectators as always is both there and every where else at such unpleasant Sights beyond what we ever saw and most Mob or Jean Hagel as they call 'em or John Hail or Canalia or Canals Sinks of Filth c. Here are also proper Houses to receive detain and chastise Extravagants Deboshees and reprobate wicked and lewd Children of which having spoken pretty largely in the Account of the Hague we shall say no more here but refer our Reader thither for full Satisfaction All these Charity Houses as also those of Correction and Reformation are neat and spruce furnish'd with Pictures which are so common in this Country that Butchers Coblers and the meanest People have a great many and of the sort pretty good and well set out In some of these Alms-Houses there are fourteen or fifteen hundred in others eight or nine hundred and in the rest four or five hundred Boys and Girls Here also may any Body Man or Woman Native or Stranger have a handsome Maintenance for their Lives in a House provided on purpose call'd the Brother's House paying only a small Summ of Money at first The Charity of this renown'd City is very great even beyond Example and above Comparison they are continually giving to the Poor hardly a Bargain made here but they come in for a Snack the Gods Penny is theirs We took a walk in the Afternoon out of the City-Gates to observe the Situation and the Country round about We saw Mills innumerable all in motion some Water some Wind some Thatch some Wood few Brick to grind Colours for the Pot-Houses Corn for this City sawing Timber draining Marsh-Grounds
who entring the Place on the Market-Day easily took it but the Inhabitants soon recover'd it and put them all to the Sword Anno 1486 this Place was reduced to Ashes and soon re-built but it met with a severer Fate at least in the Persons of the Burghers from Frederick de Toledo Duke D'Alva who came before it with a Body of an Army upon which some of the Citizens open'd their Gates to let him in notwithstanding which he fell upon the Inhabitants and barbarously murder'd them It is now a modern Regular Fortification and made prodigiously strong capable of receiving a Garison of eight or ten thousand Men it was begun Anno 1677 and perfected since the beginning of this War it cost above three or rather six hundred thousand Pounds Sterling Here are six Bulwarks four Ravelins two Half-Moons two Gates and double Ditches deep with strong Counterscarps The Town is but small and ordinary but this is the Frontier and principal Security of the whole Province which is not the richest only of the Seven but of the Seventeen In the Year 1672 the French with Ease and by Treachery took it but the Prince of Orange now King of England re-took it in eight Days time there being then no Fortification but what the French had thrown up while they possess'd it The States depending upon their Armies in the Field took the less Care of this Place now they have made it very formidable Here is a small Woollen Manufacture good Beer brew'd fine and but little inferior to the English in pleasantness of taste We rid round about the Country which is Downy almost like Epsom the Air pretty wholsom and pleasant We were at a Country-House of the late Admiral Trump's a pretty Box fine Gardens Walks and Rows of Trees with a good Moat about it We past by another of his Houses which the French burnt in the former War Anno 1673 or 1674 much bigger than t'other In our return we past through Wesep a small and inconsiderable City where they brew good Beer The Weather being pleasant we made another Sally from Amsterdam and visited Vtrecht twenty seven Miles off we past by Overkirk a small Village which gives Title to a Lord a Favourite and possess'd of the Revenues hereof We went through Opcow another small Village four Miles further near which Place are the Ruines of an old Castle Then we came to Liona a great Town seven Miles off Thence to New Sluice where we din'd upon roasted Eels which is very good Victuals and well dress'd here and is always ready at set times for Travellers A Mile and half further is Brutil a small Village where young De Rutter has a House We past Maersem and Soulandt two small Places and about three in the Afternoon we arriv'd at Vtrecht a great populous but weak City Capital of the Province of that Name one of the Seven United formerly and Archbishoprick in the Circle of Westphalia and Imperial but now subject to the States It is seated on a Branch of the Rhine in a very convenient and fruitful Place We walk'd about the Walls which are pretty high and of Brick but weak and out of repair surrounded with a deep and broad Ditch we past one of the Gates and were ferried over to see the Pall-Mall which is kept very neatly shaded with several Rows of Trees on each side preserv'd by the present French King's immediate Command who was there with his Army An. 1673 when he took this City without any Resistance Here is an University erected by the States Anno 1636 but not so full as that at Leyden tho' this in our Opinion is a pleasanter Place having better Air and a finer Country about it for we almost phansied our selves in England this being like some of our old Cities Here many of the Nobility and Gentry live because of the pleasantness of the Place being as it were a Retirement from the noise and hurry of Business and Bustle constant in great trading populous Places The better sort of People here affect the French Mode and in some measure their way of living whereas the Dutch in most other Parts are fixt to their Fashion as the Spaniards never changing it We had the Curiosity to turn over the Manuscripts lately found out and now deposited in the Clerks House adjoyning to the English Church where besides many very ancient Bibles and other curious Books fairly written flourish'd and adorn'd with Golden Letters we saw five Unicorn's Horns as they call'd 'em three long and thick two small and slender like those we have elsewhere seen said to be such too Here are two small brasen Images suppos'd to be Heathen Gods and by them worshipp'd On Sunday in most decent manner we went to the English Church which is a good old Piece of Building the Chancel is let for a Joyners Shop so little do they value what was once consecrated because after the Popish manner to God the Congregation was small between one and two hundred zealous Parson and People no English Liturgy read here all Presbyterians we view'd the Dutch Cathedral Church it was once so tho' not now 't is very capacious built Abby manner and after the old Fashion half of it fell in some years since is not repair'd because the People are poor here is a very lofty old Steeple which we ascended and whence we took a view of this good great old City and of several Churches and old Buildings formerly Monasteries and Nunneries In the chief is Van Ghent's Monument not so splendid as elsewhere he was De Rutter's Vice-Admiral and slain by the English in the Naval Engagement Anno 1672 he was of a noble Family of the Province of Guelderland which is contiguous to this and Colonel of a Marine Regiment train'd up to the Sea Service and ready at all times for that as also the Land Service and in a scarcity of Sea-men of great Use to supply that Defect being Amphibious The Streets are broad and clean and the Stadthouse a small neat old Building with a fair Piazza or Market-Place They take great Liberty here on Sundays playing at Tables Dice and other Games with Cowries or Blackmoors Teeth as the Children call 'em at the Coffee-Houses and Taverns and have Musick in the Publick-Houses the same is indeed practis'd at the Hague and Amsterdam tho' in other Places they are a little more strict particularly in Zealand but they live very loosly in the Provinces of Holland and Vtrecht buy and sell frequently on this Day and especially Provisions which is the more reasonable because of Travellers passing and re-passing and they must not starve on this tho' the Lord's-Day The next Day we hir'd a Waggon to carry us to Soestdike nine Miles from Vtrecht 't is oue of King William's Hunting-Houses formerly much frequented by him there being abundance of Game about it especially Pheasant and Partridge it is a very pretty Box and lately that is some Years since
natural taste and is indeed poor insipid stuff however we met with good old Hock here because we were willing to pay the highest Price Formerly the English bought abundance of this sorry Wine but they are grown wiser they now buy but little the English Ladies for the most part now drinking Red Wines whereas formerly they fansied that brew'd Dort Rhenish Wine most however there is yet à pretty good Trade with England for those Wines which the Wine-Coopers put into rich Canary which makes it pleasanter and to them the cheaper so they get the more Money by brewing it And here we embark'd for Zealand being resolv'd to make the Tour of that Province more particularly for the sake of those two Renown'd Cities Midleburg and Flushing But before we leave the Province of Holland where we yet are it will be fit to recollect something and very material which we omitted and had like to have forgot Before we left Amsterdam we went to their Theatre or Play-House which is but ordinary the Stage Musick Actors and Actresses in their Persons and Habits so and indeed there was but one Thing well personated and that was admirably well done and was this An old Fellow who often appear'd on the Stage in the Person and Habit of a Serving-Man and who was well known by both and also by his Voice for he answer'd to many Questions was by ill Fate or bad Conduct call it which you please led into a Capital Crime and having forfeited his Life to the State he was brought out to die a Gallows of the Country form with a small Brick-work almost Breast-high to receive the dead Body when cut down was set upon the Stage and being told that he should have his Life if he would marry one of the Three Women no contemprible ones present on the Stage he view'd 'em well and said he was oblig'd to them for their Love and to the States for their Kindness but Marriage being in his Opinion worse than Hanging he would rather undergo that Sentence He made a short Prayer went up the Ladder and was turn'd off the young Women all the while on the Stage seeing what past and finding themselves neglected were mov'd with Pity rather than Revenge approached the hanging Man and said Tho' he was a sowre ill-natur'd Fellow and would not ease us of what has been troublesome to us many Years our Maiden-Heads yet we will put him out of Pain as soon as we can upon which they pluck'd his Legs hard which dropt down and his Hands and Arms which did so as also did all the rest of the Man his very Head and all falling through the Rope which in less than a Minute was all put together again without a touch and he appear'd on the Stage and spoke to us all nor could any Body discover how this Thing was done which was the Rarity The Comedy was call'd Crispin the Physician which we always reckon'd rather a Cobler but any thing will make a Doctor there their Prices are accordingly for we have seen a top Doctor take from an eminent Merchant a Half-Crown Fee with a silly Farce of Hatred and Envy which pleas'd them better than the Play because they knew no better The Pit is about two Shillings English Money the Gallery sixteen Pence behind the Pit Six-pence but there the Mob will stand breaking in by force sometimes The Players are kept poor by the States to whom they and all the Rope-Dancers Puppet-Players Lotteries and all other Shows and Games whatever pay towards the Maintenance of indigent old People a great part of their Profit some said these do pay Two thousand Pound per Annum then no wonder they are so indifferenly clothed themselves We were carried to their nasty common Bawdy-House call'd the Long-Cellar we bid 'em put Sodom to it presently appear'd half a Dozen of plump Punks ready to be employ'd desirous to go into a Box by themselves but we did not like this Kitchen-stuff so we call'd for a Pint of White Wine and gave it them not drinking a Drop our selves for the Wine and other Liquors in those filthy Houses is always like their Women good for nothing We had a little Liquorish Chat they knew us to be English and said they lik'd our Country-Men best of any in the World but we paid six Stivers for our Wine and so took our Leaves of these Ladies We were immediately conducted by a Friend to a House of Pleasure something like the Sign is the Hoff van Holland or the Court of Holland and there were in a Front-Room below stairs a Knot of a dozen Women to be hir'd but all employ'd some working some playing at Cards c. We call'd for some Ale which being brought in Bottles was something like tho' not so good as our Cock-Ale we paid six Stivers which is about a Penny more than an English Six-pence and treated the Ladies who were handsomer and better dress'd than t'other however we had nothing more to say to 'em than a little merry Tattle so we paid and mov'd off These Women attend the Service of the Publick and when agreed with will go where you please and do with you what you please These Things are conniv'd at by the Magistrates who say 't is unavoidably necessary to prevent worse Things Violations Rapes c. they abounding with Strangers Travellers and Mariners long absent from Women They have many of these Houses as we were inform'd between forty and fifty they generally go under the Name and Shadow of Musick-Houses but we were content with seeing but two taking their Words for the rest nor did we hear any Musick there This State makes an Advantage of these light Ladies for each for her Admission must pay three Pence by laying out of which she hopes to get more In Summer the principal Diversion here is to keep as some or to hire as most do a Chaise and take their Mistresses often or Wives sometimes abroad into the Country and give them the Air and a handsome Treat returning home for the most part in the Evening We have seen three or fourscore of these Chaises or small Chariots abroad at one time and together tho' almost all of different Company In Winter the Ladies or better sort of Women are when the Frost is hard and the Streets slippery with hardned Snow which is often taken abroad by their Gallants often or Husbands seldom except when first married in Polish Sleads or Sledges richly Guilt and Carved cover'd with Embroidery of Gold or Silver or rich Silk or Tapestry drawn by a fine Horse richly Harness'd with which they are very swiftly driven from Street to Street from one Burgal to another for about two Hours and then brought home whence after a little Rest and a dish of Tea they are attended to the Play-House and so home and to Tea not cold again and then to Cards which they use much and hold long both before and after Supper which they