among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
betweene Roane and Diepe called Totes and in like sort in all the Innes of those parts before the ciuill warre assoone as passengers lighted from their horses the Hoast gaue them water to wash and bread and wine for the French haue not the patience to expect their supper without some refection Then at supper the table was serued with Mutton a Capon or Pullet Patridges and like meates with a kind of banquet as in Summer Apples Cherries and Grapes and in Winter Chessenuts Rice Raysons and stewed Prunes Then they gaue their guests cleane sheetes drying them at the fier in their presence and in the morning gaue them for breakfast some buttered tostes or motsell of meate and for all this together with horsemeate each man paid some twenty two or twenty fiue soulz as likewise the bating at noone for horse and man cost each some ten soulz After the ciuill warre I passed through these parts and commonly each meale paid twelue or fifteene soulz with worse interertainment and for breakefasts paid seuerally but no great rate Towards the confines of Flanders the Hoasts onely couer the table and a side table vpon which euerie passenger hath his glasse for the French are curious not to drinke in another mans cup and the Hoasts are onely to bee paid for this seruice Otherwise at times of eating they call the Cookes dwelling neere the Innes who bring the best meates they haue and when the guests haue chosen their meate and agreed for the price they carry it backe to dresse it and so send it warme with sawces In generall through the Cities of France passengers seldome dine at their Innes but with some companions goe to the Tauernes or Cookes shops but at night they must eate with the Hoast that giues them beds where they shall haue cleane sheetes and see them dried before their faces but they are of course cloth and very few chambers are priuate but most haue three or foure beds wherein they lye not single but for the most part with bedfellowes Also the guests as well Merchants and Gentlemen as those of common sort eate at an ordinary table and for supper commonly large with diuers roasted meates each man payes some fifteene soulz He that hiers a chamber in Cities which he may haue well furnished at Paris for some two Crownes a moneth he must buy his meate at Cookes shops which are frequent and very cleanly neither is it any disgrace as with vs to buy a morsell of meate there and to agree for the price before it bee eaten And they that hier chambers can haue no better conueniency for diet either at Paris or in other Cities But hee that stayes long in a Citie may agree in a Citizens house or an Inne for his diet and lodging by the yeere which hee may haue at Paris in extraordinary sort for some one hundred fifty Crownes yeerely and ordinarily for lesse and at Rone for one hundred twenty or one hundred Crownes and in many Cities for eighty Crownes and in many good Innes for sixty Crownes yeerely Drunkennesse is reprochfull among the French and the greater part drinke water mingled with wine and alwaies French wines not Sacke or Spanish wines which are sold as Phisicke onely by Apothecaries or other forraigne Wines whereof I remember not to haue seene any in the Northerne parts of France Yet Marriners Souldiers and many of the common sort vsed to drinke Perry and Syder to very drunkennes yea I haue seene many drink wine with like intemperance and when these kinds of men sit at drinking they vse much mirth and singing in which art they take great delight as the French in generall are by nature chearefull and liuely Women for the most part and virgins alwaies except by stealth they offend against the custome vse to drinke water except it be in the Prouinces yeelding Perry and Syder which all sorts vse to drinke without exception And at Paris I remember to haue seene a poore woman to beg a cup of water which being giuen her she drunke it off and went away merily as if she had receiued a good almes CHAP. III. Of England touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of England extends nine degrees and a halfe from the meridian of thirteene degrees and a halfe to that of twenty three degrees and the latitude extends fixe degrees from the paralell of fifty degrees and a halfe to that of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe Learned Camden whom I gladly follow in this description of England makes the circuite of all Britany to be one thousand eight hundred thirty six miles This is the most famous Iland of all the World and is diuided into two Kingdomes that of England and that of Scotland England is subeuided into diuers Counties or Shyres and Ilands 1 In the description whereof I will first begin with Cornmall of old inhabited by the Danmonij It is for the most part a Mountanous Country but the soyle is not vnfirtile besides that the people incredibly fatten the same with laying vpon it the owes of the Sea called Orwood and a certaine mud The Sea coast as Camden writeth whom I follow is beautified with very many Townes which haue much shipping The inward parts abound with a rich vaine of Mettals where wonderfull quantitie of most pure Tinne is digged vp and not onely Tinne but Gold and Siluer with it and Dyamonds formed into Angles by nature it selfe which we call Cornish Dyamonds Eringo grows plentifully all along the Sea side and with great labour of the Husbandman they haue such aboundance of Corne as great quantity of wheate is yeerely exported thence into Spaine Also the inhabitants make great gaine by the fishing of Pilchards which they salt and drie in the smoke and export an huge multitude of them yeerely into Spaine and Italy Here is the famous Mount Michael of old called Dinsol and by the inhabitants the Rock Cana. This Rocke is somewhat high and craggy vpon the top whereof is a Chappell dedicated to Michael the Arch-Angell The Towne Falemouth hath a faire Hauen capeable of very many shippes and most safe from stormes where the Rockes doe fortifie two Castles built by Henry the eight and this Hauen is by Ptolomy called Ostium Cenionis 2 Deuonshire likewise inhabited by the Danmonij hath fairer Hauens being no lesse rich in the vaines of Tinne and beautified with frequent Townes In no part of England the ground requireth more expence for in many places it is barren till it bee fatted with the Owes or sand of the Sea which makes it wonderfully fruitfull but in the remotest parts from the Sea this sand is dearely bought The Riuer Plimus giues the name to the Towne Plimmouth of old called Sutton which grew from a fishers Village to a faire Towne by the commoditie of the Hauen being most safe euen for great ships as well in the said Riuer as in another called Tamera Not farre from thence is the
will cost him sixe pence or in some places but foure pence yet this course is lesse honourable and not vsed by Gentlemen but if he will eate in his chamber he commands what meate he will according to his appetite and as much as he thinkes fit for him and his company yea the kitchin is open to him to command the meat to be dressed as he best likes and when he sits at Table the Host or Hostesse will accompany him or if they haue many Guests will at least visit him taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe while he eates if he haue company especially he shall be offred musicke which he may freely take or refuse and if he be solitary the Musitians will giue him the good day with musicke in the morning It is the custome and no way disgracefull to set vp part of supper for his breakefast In the euening or in the morning after breakefast for the common sort vse not to dine but ride from breakefast to supper time yet comming early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses he shall haue a reckoning in writing and if it seeme vnreasonable the Host will satisfie him either for the due price or by abating part especially if the seruant deceiue him any way which one of experience will soone find Hauing formerly spoken of ordinary expences by the high way aswell in the particular iournall of the first Part as in a Chapter of this Part purposely treating thereof I will now onely adde that a Gentleman and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gentleman and his Man and if Gentlemen will in such sort ioyne together to eate at one Table the expences will be much diminished Lastly a Man cannot more freely command at home in his owne House then hee may doe in his Inne and at parting if he giue some few pence to the Chamberlin Ostler they wish him a happy iourney England hath three publike Feasts of great expence and pompous solemnity namely the coronation of the Kings the Feast of S. George as well vpon his day yeerely as at all times when any Knight of the Order is installed and the third when Seriants at the Law are called The Lord Mayor of the City of London vpon the day when he is sworne enters his Office keeps a solemne Feast with publike shewes of great magnificence besides that hee and the Sheriffes of the Citie daily keepe well furnished Tables to entertaine any Gentleman or stranger that will come to them to the great honour of the City in this particular passing all other Cities of the World knowne to vs. For the point of drinking the English at a Feast will drinke two or three healths in remembrance of speciall friends or respected honourable persons and in our time some Gentlemen and Commanders from the warres of Netherland brought in the custome of the Germans large garaussing but this custome is in our time also in good measure left Likewise in some priuate Gentlemens houses and with some Captaines and Souldiers and with the vulgar sort of Citizens and Artisans large and intemperate drinking is vsed but in generall the greater and better part of the English hold all excesse blame worthy and drunkennesse a reprochfull vice Clownes and vulgar men onely vse large drinking of Beere or Ale how much soeuer it is esteemed excellent drinke euen among strangers but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine with which many mixe sugar which I neuer obserued in any other place or Kingdome to be vsed for that purpose And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetenesse the Wines in Tauernes for I speake not of Merchants or Gentlemens Cellars are commonly mixed at the filling thereof to make them pleasant And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the vse of Corands of Corinth so frequent in all places and with all persons in England as the very Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof and know not how we should spend them except we vse them for dying or to feede Hogges CHAP. IIII. Of Scotland touching the Subiects contained in the first Chapter THE Longitude of Scotland extends fiue degrees from the Meridian of sixeteene degrees to that of one and twenty degrees and the Latitude extends foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe to that of sixty degrees and a halfe In the Geographical description wherof I wil briefly follow the very words of Camden as neere as I can being an Authour without exception 1 The Gadeni of Scotland were of old next neighbours to the Ottadini of Northumberland in England and inhabited the Countrey now called Teyfidale wherein is nothing memorable but the Monastery of Mailors 2 In Merch so called as a bordering Countrey the Castle Hume is the old possession of the Lords of Hume neere which is Kelso the ancient dwelling of the Earles of Bothwell which were long by inheritance Admirals of Scotland and the Merch is mentioned in Histories for nothrng more then the valour of the said Earles 3 Laudania of old called Pictland shooteth out from Merch towards the Scottish narrow Sea called the Frith and is full of mountaines but hath few woods In this Country are these little Cities or Townes Dunbarre Haddington and Musleborrow places wherein hath beene seene the warlike vertue of the English and Scots Somewhat lower and neere to the foresaid Frith lies Edenborough which Ptolomy cals Castrum Alatum a rich City of old compassed with wals and the seate of the Kings whole Palace is at the East end in a vally ouer which hangs a mountaine called the Chaire of Arthur our Britan Prince and from this Pallace is an easie ascent to the West end where the length of the City ends in a steepe rocke vpon which is built a most strong Castle called the Maidens Castle the same which Ptolomy cals Alatum This City was long vnder the English Saxons and about the yeere 960 England being inuaded by the Danes it became subiect to the Scots Leth is a mile distant and is a most commodious Hauen vpon the narrow Scottish Gulfe vulgarly called Edenborough Frith 4 Towards the West lay the Selgouae vpon another Gulfe running betweene England and Scotland vulgarly called Solway Frith of the said Selgouae inhabiting the Countries called Eskedale Annandale and Nidtsdale in which is the little Towne Dunfrise 5 Next lay the Nouantes in the Valleys where Gallway and Whitterne which Citie Ptolomy calles Leucopibia are seated 6 In the little Countrie Caricta hauing good pastures is the little Towne Gergeny which Ptolomy calles Rerigonium 7 More inward lay the Damnij where now Sterling Merteth and Claidsdale are seated Here the Riuer Cluyde runnes by Hamelton the seate of the Hameltons Family of English race of which the third Earle of Arran liueth in our dayes and after by Glascow the seat of an Archbishop and a little Vniuersitie Here
forraine yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat all my consorts being Dutch-men The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey foure miles to Amberg through fruitfull Hils of corne and some few Woods and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue being seated in the vpper Palatinate After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg two miles to Hous-coate a Village where each man paid six Batzen for his supper The sixt day we went three miles passing by Erspruck a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers and many villages belonging to diuets Lords and a fort in the mid way called Schwang belonging to seuenty two Lords and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres The first and greater part of the way was through fruitfull Hils of corne the rest through sandy pastures and a Wood of a miles length Wee dined at a poore Village each man for six Batzen After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg through sandy corne fields and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens whether they vse to come out of the City sometimes to recreate themselues The Wood which we passed in the morning lay on our left hand towards the South as wee entred the Citie on the east side and not farre from the City turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South The City of Nurnberg seated in a barren sandy ground yet is very rich by the Citizens industry For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey either because hauing enough for food they are giuen to idlenesse or because abundance makes them prodigall so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes and cunning Art draw the riches of all Countries to them The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie but is not Nauigable nor beareth any the least boats This Riuer runnes from the East where wee entred the Towne towards the gate Lauff-thore and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South where diuiding into two beds it entreth the City and comming out againe at the West washeth the Citie walles On the East side the Margraues of Brandeburg besieged the City at the command of Charles the fifth therefore on this and the South side besides a dry ditch and two stone walles compassing the whole City diuers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall On all sides as you come vp to the City the earth riseth and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe Vpon the walles there be many Towers distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile Among the said Towers three are stronger then the rest and furnished with Artillery The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore The second is on the South side vnder the gate Fraw-thore and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore There is a Castle called Burk which by Nero the Emperour was of his name called Noricum Castrum It is certaine that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great and the City being of it selfe not ancient is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore so called of him that caused it to be built where is a pleasant walke thicke shadowed with trees where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure The City is absolute of it selfe being one of the free Cities of the Empire and mee thinks the chief or at least second to Augsburg surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City but it must be preferred for the building whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high I speake of the whole City of Augsburg for one street thereof is most beautifull and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes of which kind Nurnberg hath none The Tower which I said was of old called Noricum Castrum hangs ouer the City which being seated in a plaine hath no mounts neere it and is of a round forme The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower as it were vnder the shield of Aiax and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne and is opened to no man without consent of the Senate which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery with great store of all Munitions The City hath also a Granary which is so large as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein It hath teri Churches whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching and in one of them lies buried Zebalemus-King of Denmarke who first conuerted the City to Christian Religion Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine so called of the beauty and magnificence and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes Neere the Church called Frawenkirk is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer and compassed with an iron grate It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch or a candle and lanthorne In the Innes they giue no beere at the table but diuers kinds of wine and a large diet if not delicate for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale and besides for his chamber or lodging which he may haue priuate to himselfe three creitzers by the day In the Almes-houses out of gifts by the last testament of those that die they maintaine great numbers of poore people and in one of them twelue old men apart and in another twelue old men and as many old weomen Whilst I liued at Prage and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face as I lay in bed I dreamed that a shadow passing by told me that my father was dead at which awaking all in a sweat and affected with this dreame I rose and wrote the day and houre and all circumstances thereof in a paper booke which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel and sent it from Prage to Stode thence to be conuaied into England And now being at Nurnberg a Merchant of a noble family well acquainted with me and my friends arriued there who told me that my Father died some two moneths past I list not
besides he vsed it to bring the Citizens in absolute subiection The streetes are narrow and the wayes ill paued with Flint The Hauen is of a triangular forme and is now very pleasant as of old it was of great fame for a most secure Port yet it seemed not to me capable of many or great ships Perhaps it was of old fit to receiue the Roman Nauie of Gallies but since they haue neglected to preserue it Traiane the Emperour repaired this Hauen and adorned it with a stately triumphall Arke of marble which remaines to this day About this Hauen there is pleasant walking and the place where the Marchants meete called la Loggia lying vpon the sea is as sweete an open roome as euer I saw but narrow and nothing answerable for stately building to the Exchange of London It is beautified with sweete pictures among which one of an Angell which lookes right vpon you on which side soeuer you behold it is much esteemed They haue a prouerb one Peter in Rome one Tower in Cremona and one Hauen in Ancona for the excellency of them Neere the gate of the Citie to my remembrance on the East-side is a very sweete Fountaine powring water out of many heads of stone At Ancona according to the custome of passengers we agreed with a Vetturine or letter of horses that each of vs paying him fiftie fiue Poli hee should finde vs horses and horse meate and our owne diet to Rome and to this end his seruant followed vs on foote after the fashion of the Italians who ride slowly and these seruants are called Vetturini or Vetturals Now we were to crosse the bredth of Italy frō the Adriatique to the Tyrrhene Sea The first day in the Morning we rode fifteene miles to a little Citie called Madonna di Loretto through fruitfull Mountaines and passing an high Promontary By the way was an Altar with this inscription in Latin O passenger goe on merily c. Gregorie the thirteenth hath well paued the rest of the way The like inscription is in the ascent of the Mountaine vpon which the little Citie Loreto stands for this way in a fruitfull Countrey of corne and a dirty soile was paued at the charge of the said Pope A certaine chamber hath giuen beginning to this Citie and the Church thereof then which nothing is esteemed more holy among the Papists and because many gifts of great price vse to be giuen by vow to our Lady of this Church the City is well fortified against Pirats who did once spoile the same and were like againe to be inuited by the hope of rich spoiles to the like attempt if the Towne lay vnfortified It is of little circuit and lieth in length from East to the West so narrow as it hath almost but one streete in the bredth and all the houses of this streete are Innes or Shops of them that sell Beades to number prayers On the East side after a steepe descent of a Mountaine lies a valley of two miles and beyond that the sea On the North side to wards Ancons though the sea be very farre distant yet from this Citie seated vpon a high Mountaine it may easily be seene Vpon the dores of this Church famous for mens superstitious worship these verses are written Illotus tlmeat quicunque intrara Sacellum In terris nullum sanctius orbis habet Enter not here vn washt of any spot For a more holy Church the world hath not At the Church dore is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregorie the thirteenth As I walked about the Church behold in a darke Chappell a Priest by his Exorcismes casting a diuell out of a poore woman Good Lord what fencing and truly coniuring words he vsed How much more skilfull was he in the diuels names then any ambitious Roman euer was in the names of his Citizens whom he courted for their voices If he had eaten a bushell of salt in hell If he had been an inhabitant thereof surely this Art could neuer haue been more familiar to him He often spake to the ignorant woman in the Latin tongue but nothing lesse then in Tullies phrase and at last the poore wretch either hired to deceiue the people or if that be more probable drawne by familiar practice with the Priest or at least affrighted with his strange language and cries confessed her selfe dispossessed by his exorcisme In the body of the Church a Table of written hand in the Greeke Latin and many other tongues was fastened to a Piller setting downe at large the wonderfull historie of the Chamber in the midst of the Church which I confesse was lesse curiously obserued by me abhorring from that superstition hastening from thence as much as I might yet giue me leaue to set down the sum thereof out of the itinerary of Villamont a French Gentleman This Chamber or Chappell saith he is the very house in which the Queene Virgin of Nazaret was borne brought vp and saluted by the Angell foretelling her of Christs birth and in which Christ was conceiued and in which the Virgin dwelt after Christs ascention accompanied with the holy Apostles especially with Saint Iohn by Christs commaund which the Apostles after the Virgins death for the great mysteries done here turned into a Chappell consecrated to the sacrificing of Christ and dedicated the same and with their owne hands made the great Crosse of wood now set in the window of the Chappell and in which Saint Luke made with his hand the picture and Image now set aboue it Let mee adde This Chappell from a House became a Chamber and of a Chamber was made a Chappell and it is built of bricke and is thirtie foote long twelue and a halfe broad In the chimney as Villamont saith as yet remaine the holy ashes which no man dare take away and the Altar also vpon which the Masse is sung was made by the Apostles hand There is a roome into which you first enter which is diuided from the Chappel by an iron grate for no man enters the chappell without leaue but must say his prayers in the outter roome yet leaue is giuen to any that aske it Villamont addeth that he found by diligent search that this Chappell was much reuerenced in the primitiue Church but the holy land being subdued by Sarasens then by Turkes he faith it hapned in the yeere 1291. that this house was taken vp from the foundations by Angels who in the night miraculously carried it to the Sea shoare of Sclauonia where it was made knowne to the people by the shining of the Virgines Image and then by a vision of a religious man the Virgine her selfe made knowne the History to him He addeth the Virgins Oration wherein shee giues her selfe many titles which in later ages were first inuented and shee doth so extoll her owne praises with her owne mouth as hee that reades the old song of the blessed Virgin would cry out with the Latine Poet onely
our would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it then according to the fashion wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake and when he was drawne out he began by little and little to moue and at last being come to his senses ranne away as if he had been madde The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour Besides many haue tried that liuing things cast into that caue and held there for longer time then is vsuall could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water They report that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death And that the French King Charles the eight commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe And that don Iohn base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue and he falling dead forced another slaue to fetch him out who likewise fell dead and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fellowes Many cast frogs into this caue and except they presently leape back this vapour kills them which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters And this water though cold to touch yet seemes to boile The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines by the vapours inclosed gaue the Poets occasion to faine that Giants were buried vnder them Not farre hence are the wholesome baths vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano which kind of baths are very frequent in this part Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus and Writers affirme that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake cutting the passage through Mountaines Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero which retaine the old name and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait was buried here and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place is a round field like a Market-place vulgarly called o Solfataria which Strabo cals Forum vulcani Pliny writes that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci It is of an Ouall forme somewhat more long then broad hauing 1500 foote in length and 1000 in breadth being compassed on all sides with Mountaines except the enterance lying towards Pozzoli All the earth is hollow and being beaten with a mans foote soundeth like an emptie vessell and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour with walking vpon it yea when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe In this Ouall Market place as I may call it there is a short and narrow ditch of water which is almost round and the water thereof boyles as if fire were vnder it They say if any thing be cast into it that it will be sodden in short space but some part of it will be consumed and Leander reports that one cast foure egges into it and presently tooke three fully sodden but the fourth was consumed Also he witnesseth that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite and yet is neuer greater and that the old ditch is filled presently with new matter An horseman cannot well come to this place and as the same Leander writes an horse man comming boldly thither was swallowed vp into the hollow earth And that the strange heate of this water may appeare one of the Viceroyes Guard a Duchman and comming hither according to their fashion to guide his Countrey men my consorts told vs that one of his fellowes not long before comming in like sort as hee did to guide his Countrimen hither either being carelesse or rather as it is most probable hauing drunke too much and not guiding his feete well by chance stumbled into this ditch and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand and that after better aduice they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him but that within few daies he died neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole where the vapours with their owne motion continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe or any thing put into the hole the more they are stirred the greater stones they cast vp yea flames of fire sometimes There bee some cottages neere this place where they make Brimstone and all these parts smell of brimstone and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters which of old were famous After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings we came at the foot of a mountaine to the City p Pozzoli of old famous and called Puteolis to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong of the wels which are frequent I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo signifying a well though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo which signifies a stink because of the smell of brimstone in these parts but the city being most ancient cannot haue the old name of an Italian word and it is certaine that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation for the great sweetnes of the Country and the plenty of medicinall waters whereupon they gaue it the first name Others say that it was of old called Diciarchiam but at this day it is called Pozzoli or Puzzoli Here we dined and were forced to giue our swords to the Host there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes The City hath nothing worth the seeing but the old Church first built to Heathen Idols and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious but by negligence is growne of no vse Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines was of old called the Creeke of P Baie of that Citie seated on the opposite shore or
And he shewed vs one that had throughout the figure of Christ crucified another that had the figure of the Popes triple Crowne and another that had the liuely figure of Luther Surely the Germans are accounted no iuglers nor liers and if they would haue deceiued vs yet I cannot see how our eyes should be deceiued seeing many of them broken and stil hauing the same figure This poore Village yet pleasant for the seat was of old a City and at this time the houses were couered as they be in many parts of Germany not with tiles of bricke but with like peeces of wood Here each of vs paid a quarter of a doller for our owne and the Coach-mans dinner In the afternoone we passed a dirty way but through fruitfull corne fields foure miles to Sangerhausen where each of vs in like sort paid the fourth part of a doller and a grosh for our supper This being the first Village of the Prouince Thuring belongs to the Elector of Saxony The fourth day in the morning wee passed through most pleasant fruitfull hils of corne adorned with some pleasant woods which in higher Germany are of firre that is greene all winter foure miles in the territory of the Elector of Saxony to a Countrey Inne where hauing nothing but egges for our dinner we paid iointly ten siluer grosh After dinner we passed in the same Electors territory and through the like soyle or Countrey three miles and a halfe to a Countrey Inne where we had to supper a pudding as big as a mans legge and grosse meat and straw for our beds and iointly paid foureteene grosh The fifth day early in the morning we passed-through the like way but more pleasant for the plenty of Vines two miles to the City of Erfurt where we foure English consorts with our Coach-man paied iointly a doller and twenty one grosh for our dinner with sower wine of the Countrey This City is seated in a plaine and is a free City but not an imperiall City and paies some tribute to the Bishop of Metz and to the Saxon Duke of Wineberg It is large being a Dutch mile in compasse but the houses are poorely built of timber and clay hauing the roofes couered with tiles of wood and they seeme to be built of old It hath forty two Churches but onely sixteene are vsed for diuine seruice namely eight for the Papists among which are the two Cathedrall Churches vnder the power of the Archbishop of Metz and eight for the Protestants or Lutherans This is the chiefe City of Thuring and of old here was an Vniuersity but time hath dissolued it After dinner at the first going out of the City wee ascended a very high mountaine whereupon is a pleasant wood of firre Then we passed by the beautifull little City of Armstat I call it beautifull for the seate in a firtile soyle hauing drie and pleasant walkes and for the plenty of fountaines and groaues and for the magnificence of the Castle wherein the Count of Schwartzburg keepes his Court finally for the vniforme building of the City which some fifteene yeeres past was burnt to the ground and was since rebuilded and so comming from Erfurt we passed three long miles to the Village Blaw subiect to the Count of Schwartzburg where iointly we paid foureteene grosh for our supper The sixth day we passed three miles through wooddy mountaines to the Village Fraw-im-Wald that is our Lady in the wood which Village is subiect to the said Count and here we paid iointly thirty seuen grosh and a halfe for our dinner After dinner wee passed three miles through mountaines couered with snow and woods of firre to Eysfield subiect to the Saxon Duke of Coburg For this wood of Thuring vulgarly called Thuringwald hath many Lords namely the Elector of Saxony the Saxon Dukes of Wineberg Coburg and the Count Schwartzburg The Duke of Coburg hath in this place a faire Castle and we paid iointly for vs foure and the Coach-man sixty foure grosh for our supper and breakefast The seuenth day in the morning we passed three miles ouer dirty mountaines and fruitfull in corne to Coburg seated in the Prouince of Franconia They say this City was of old called Cotburg that is the City of dirt and the dirty streetes well deserue the name Here one of the Dukes of Saxony called of Coburg kept his Court and our Host told vs that his Dutchesse for adultery was then bricked vp in a wall the place being so narrow as shee could onely stand and hauing no dore but onely a hole whereat they gaue her meat The building of the City was very base of timber and clay Here we fiue paid sixteene grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed two miles to the Towne Clawsen through fruitfull hils of corne and in a most dirty way where we fiue paid forty nine grosh for our supper and the Towne is subiect to the Popish Bishop of Bamberg The eight day we passed foure miles to Bamberg through a fruitfull plaine of corne and pleasant hils planted with vines and in a most dirty way This City is the seate of the Bishop of Bamberg By the way we passed by a Ferry the Riuer Manus running to Franckfort Here we fiue paid thirty seuen grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed through a wood of firre in a sandy soyle and then through fruitfull fields of corne and pleasant hils three mile vnto a Village subiect to the Margraue of Anspach from which a City subiect to the Bishop of Bamberg is not farre distant for the Princes dominions in these parts are mingled one with the other and here we fiue paid fifty fiue grosh for our supper The ninth day we passed three miles through a sandy and barren plaine and woods of firre alwaies greene to a Village subiect to the said Margraue where we fiue paid forty grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed three miles through the like way to Nurnburg and being now free from paying for our Coach-man each of vs paid here six batzen each meale and foure creitzers each day for our chamber This City I haue formerly discribed and so passe it ouer Here we hired a Coach being seuen consorts for twelue Dutch guldens to Augsburg being nineteene miles distant The first day after breakefast we passed through Nurnburg wood two miles and in the said Margraues territory who is of the Family of the Electors of Brandeburg foure miles to Blinfield and each of vs paid ten batzen for our supper and foure batzen for a banquet after supper The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to the City Monheyme subiect to the Phaltz-graue of the Rheine and here each of vs paid halfe a gulden for his dinner By the way in this mornings iourney we did see Weyssenburg a free but not imperiall City protected by Nurnburg The Margraue of Anspach Lord of this territory hath a Fort built vpon a Mountaine
Burgundians who in the Raigne of Charles the seuenth and in the yeere 1422 by a sudden conspiracy cast out and killed the Burgundians lying there in garrison and salted their dead bodies in a vessell of stone which they shew to this day They name three iurisdictions or commonalties which it seems of old had foolish and great priuiledges La Basoche de Paris Les Cornards de Rouen La Mere Folle de Dijon Of the Cities they say Paris la grande the Great Rouen la riche the Rich Orleans la belle the Faire Dijon la Folle the Foolish Anger 's basse ville hauts clochers riches putaines pounres Escoliers Low City high Steeples rich Whores poore Schollars They say vulgarly Les Badauts the Fooles or as we say Cocknies di Paris Les Cornards the foresaid society of horned Di Rouen Les Gue spins the word hath some reference to Vespae a Latin word signifying those that carry dead bodies to be buried by night but the French can hardly giue a true signification of it d'Orleans Les Copienx the copious for their art in ieasting de Flesche Les fanx tosmoings the false witnesses quatorze pour vn'fromage foureteene for a Cheese du Manz 〈◊〉 the nouices or simple men de Solongne qui s'abusent toussiours a leur profit which are abused alwaies to their owne profit as if vnder colour of simplicity they were most crafty Of three Cities of Champaigne Les Graniers the Garners as full of Corne de Challons Les Caues the Cellars as full of wine de Reims Les Bourses the Purses as full of money de Troyes They say vulgarly Ily a plue de Monmartre a Paris que de Paris a Monmartre This speech Ily a is ambiguous or of diuers significations vulgarly it should be thus vnderstood It is further from Monmartre to Paris then from Paris to Monmartre but in this place it is thus meant There is more of Monmartre within Paris then of Paris vpon Monmartre because almost all the Houses of Paris are plastered ouer and the matter of this plaster is daily brought into Paris from Monmartre Also A Monmartre Ily a plus de Putains que de vaches Mais ostes en les Nonnains Ily aura plus de vaches que de Putains At Monmartre there be more Whores then Cowes But take away the Nunnes and there will be more Cowes then Whores Also Fromages Cheeses d' Auuergne Angelots a kinde of Cheese de Brie Andouilles Intrals or Trypes de Troye Saueisses Sawsages du Pont l'Euesque Chapons Capons du Mans. Moutarde Mustard de Dijon Pruneaux Prunes de Tours Marrons great Chesnuts de Lyon Pain d'espice Spiced Bread de Reims Raues rape rootes de Limosin Pesches Peaches de Corheil pain Bread de Genesse The Italiaus say that the manner of the French is Di non dire quando vogliono fare di non legger ' come Scriuotio e di non santare come notano Not to speake that they will doe not to reade as they write not to sing as they pricke England in generall is said to be the Hell of Horses the Purgatory of Seruants and the Paradice of Weomen The Londiners pronounce woe to him that buyes a Horse in Smyth-field that takes a Seruant in Pauls-Church that marries a Wife out of Westminster Londiners and all within the sound of Bow-Bell are in reproch called Cocknies and eaters of buttered tostes The Kentish men of old were said to haue ray les because trafficking in the Low-Countries they neuer paid full payments of what they did owe but still left some part vnpaid Essex men are called calues because they abound there Lankashire egge-pies and to be wonne by an Apple with a red side Norsorlke wyles for crafty litigiousnes Essex stiles so many as make walking tedious Kentish miles of the length Northumberland men exercised in roades vpon the Scots are accounted best light Horsemen Cornish men best Horse riders and Wrastlers and most actiue men Lincolneshire Belles and Bag pipes Deuonshire Whitepots Tewksbery Mustard Banberry Cakes Kings-Norten Cheese Sheffeld kniues Darby Ale are prouerbially spoken of I hastily passed through part of Scotland bordering vpon England and had no skill in the Irish tongue so as I obserued no such Prouerbs in those Kingdomes The second Booke CHAP. I. Of the fit meanes to trauell and to hire Coaches and Horses HEreof I must intreate briefely and howsoeuer the subiect be large yet I wil compendiously restraine this my discourse praying him that desireth more plaine instruction in any particular to reade the following discourse in this third Part of these Nations diet in generall and expences in their Innes as also to gather particular obseruations for his vse out of my daily iournies related in the first Part. The greatest part of Germany is a plaine Countrie with few Hilles and almost no Mountaines but it is full of vast Woods and the soile is either sandy or for the most part drie and little subiect to durt so as they vse commonly Coaches for their iournies which are easily to be found in any City neither shall a passenger long stay for companions to fill vp the Coach so as by this constant manner of trauelling hee shall not be put to any extraordinary charge From Hamburg to Nurnberg being nine daies iourney I remember that sixe of vs in company hired a coach for fifty dollers That fiue of vs for two dayes iournies paid fiue dollers That foure of vs for three daies iorney payed seuen dollers for our Coach But in our iourney from Hamburg to Nurnberg we paied for our Coachmans diet himselfe paying for his horses meate whereas in the other iournies he paied also for his owne diet The ordinary Coaches hold sixe consorts but those of Nurnberg receiue eight bearing two in each boote on the sides But if companions bee not readily found to fill the Coach the passengers shall doe better in going forward with such company as they haue and the Coachmen will rather goe for lesse then stay in the Inne and spend more in expecting the full number The top of the Coaches is made with round hoopes couered with lether or for the most part with black cloath which are buckled together in the middest when it raines or the weather is cold for otherwise the hoopes fastned with staples of Iron to the body of the coach fall backward to the ends so as the passengers may sit in the open aire In lower Germany a passenger commonly payes about foure Lubeck shillings for each meale In middle Germany he shall pay about foure Batzen And in higher Germany he shall pay about sixe or seuen batzen each meale and all passengers sit at one common table At the foote of the Alpes where the fall of waters make the waies durty they vse to ride on horsebacke Sweitzerland consists of hilles and Mountaines so as they likewise trauell on horsebacke And there the passenger shall commonly pay some fiue or sixe batzen each meale The horses in both places are to bee
pauements with their wheeles and the waggons being often changed in each dayes iourney this carriage to his Inne and from it so often must needes be a great burthen to his shoulders or charge to his purse The Waggoners being commonly drunken driue their Mares like mad men yet without danger of turning ouer their Waggons because the wayes are most plaine faire and sandy From Delph to Hage being two houres iourney with consorts I paied two stiuers for my Waggon and alone I paide seuen The way lies betweene ditches and is plaine and safe the Countrey people continually repairing it For otherwise the wayes in this low watry soyle could not be so drie and sandy as they are And because they cast vp sand vpon the passengers some curious men vse spectacles of glasse to preserue their eyes On all sides from City to City they haue ditches cut vpon which boates passe almost euery hower to and fro and giue passage at a low rate and the wind being faire they beare sayles otherwise they are drawne by Horses or by Marriners with a rope fastened vpon a pole set vp in the hinder part of the boate and the Marriners being commonly drunke through their too much hast and negligence it often happens that the ropes wherewith the boates are drawne catch hold on some posts and stakes by the way or chance to be intangled with the horses or roapes of other boates meeting them and so ouerturne them in the water with no small danger to the passengers The rates of passages by boate are diuers but euer small My selfe haue passed three miles for foure stiuers seuen miles for sixe stiuers and foureteene miles as from Amsterdam to Harlingen for eight stiuers The Marriners vse not to deceiue strangers in the rates neither can they easily doe it they being vulgarly knowne to euery child Euery day and at a set hower the Boates must goe away with those passengers they haue and may not stay for more and if at any time some few passengers or any one alone will pay the whole fraight of the Boate then they must without any delay transport those passengers or that one man This I will illustrate with one example A Barke must euerie day at a set hower set sayles from Harlingen a Citie in Freesland to Amsterdam a Citie in Holland and like are the customes of other Cities for mutuall trafficke neither may the couetous Marriners stay one minute after the hower and after it is neuer so little loosed from the strand it may not come backe to the shoare though neuer so many passengers should come suddenly and desire to bee receiued into it but these new passengers must hire another barke the price whereof is vulgarly knowne and that being offered by them or any one passenger the Marriners may 〈◊〉 to goe presently away Sometimes it happens that one Barke receiues so many passengers as the owner gets tenne Flemmish guldens for one fraight for if great number of passengers comes before the appointed hower that turnes to the Marriners profit But if one man alone or few men doe after the appointed hower offer to giue fiue guldens for the said passage they may not reruse presently to transport him or them The like custome is kept in other Cities for small boates and short passages namely that tenne conforts which are most readthe found shall pay each man three stiuers for his passage and if one or two being in haste will pay these thirty stiuers the boate without delay must carry him or them I cannot denie but these rates of hiring barkes or boates are subiect to change For in the passage from Harlingen to Amsterdam my selfe paid eight stiuers for my transporting which of old was but fiue stiuers a man As likewise for small boats we then paid three stiuers for a passage which of old was but one blanck But in the meane time these increases are not raised by the Marriners couetousnesse after their pleasure but by the publike authority of the Magistrate in lawfull and decent manner In the publike Innes a passenger paies some ten or fourteene stiuers 〈◊〉 but if he drinke wine that will cost as much more by reason of the great impositions vpon the Wines Besides that the Flemmings his consorts drinking beere stiffely especially if they light vpon English beere and drinke being put into the common reckoning of the company a stranger shall pay for their intemperancy The Danes haue such and the same waggons as the Flemmings which a man alone or few or more consorts may hire some foure miles being a short dayes iourney for 20 or 24 Lubeck shillings or about that rate Trauellers vse not to passe on horsebacke The Coachmen pay for their owne diet and their horses meate My selfe commonly paid each meale for my diet sixe Lubeck shillings reckoning three for beere apart and in some places ioyntly for both foure Lubeck that is eight Danish shillings Lastly I was carried in a boate foure miles by the Sea-coast for eight Lubeck shillings Poland for the most part or almost all is a plaine Countrie fit for the passing of coches which may be hired in Cities and a 〈◊〉 to those of Germany From Dantzke to Crakaw being ten daies iourney a coach may be hired for some 44 German guldens My selfe paid there for my part six guldens leauing the Coach after foure daies iourney because the horses were tired And for my diet two of those dayes vpon our guides reckoning my part came to two guldens but I am sure he deceiued vs. In one Citie by the way fiue of vs paid 2 dollers for one supper but my selfe after passing alone commonly dined in villages for 2 or 3 grosh and supped for 4 or 6 grosh They vse to carry a bed in the Coach and to sit vpon it in the day time for otherwise no beds are to be found but onely in great Cities which are very rare And they who will haue wine must also carry it with them for it is not to be had but onelie in great Cities Our Horses as I said being tired we left our Coach and by the Kings letter or warrant granted to one of our company we tooke vp horses and that for small prices namely one or two Grosh for a Polish or Dutch mile But the Polonians for the most part ride on horsebacke and the most conuenient and frugall course for passengers is to buy horses and sell them in Italy after their iourney neither shall they want horse-men to beare them company from City to City but he that is a horse-man cannot carrie his bed so must haue patience to rest vpon a bench til he shall find beds vpon the confines of Germany In the meane time his long horsmans coat which the Polonians Hungarians generally vse may with straw make his logding more cōuenient especially if it be lined with Woolues skinnes or like furres for the Winter time Neither shall he neede to feare any cold since the
by nature and diligent Art and hath a very faire Hauen Vpon the bay which Ptolomy names AEstuarium Metaris vulgarly called the Washes lieth the large Towne of Linne famous for the safety of the Hauen most easie to be entred for the concourse of Merchants and the faire buildings 20 Cambridgeshire had of old the same Inhabitants and consists all of open corne fields excepting some places yeelding Saffron and it giues excellent Barly of which steeped till it spring againe they make great quantity of Mault to brew Beere in such quantity as the Beere is much exported euen into forraigne parts and there highly esteemed Cambridge is a famous Vniuersity seated vpon the Riuer Grant by others called Came of which and the Bridge ouer the same it is called Cambridge The Northerne part of this County consists of Ilands greene and pleasant in Summer but all couered with water in the Winter whereof the cheefe called Ely giues the name to all the rest called as if they were but one Iland the I le of Ely the cheefe Towne whereof called also Ely is famous for being the seate of a Bishop 21 Hunting donshire had of old the same Inhabitants the cheefe Towne whereof is Huntingdon 22 Northamptonshire was of old inhabited by the Coritani and is a Countrey most painefully tilled and full of Inhabitants Northampton is the cheefe City large and walled Peterborow is the seate of a Bishop Neere Stamford is the stately Pallace Burleigh built by William the first Lord Burleigh 23 Leycestershire had of old the same Inhabitants a Champion Country and fruitfull in bearing Corne. In Lutterworth a little Towne of Trade Iohn Wickliffe was Pastor or Minister Leicester the cheefe City hath more antiquitie then beauty 24 Rutlandshire had of old the same Inhabitants and is the least County of England and had the name of the red Earth The Towne of Vppingham deserues no other mention then that it is the cheefe Towne of the County 25 Linconshire had of old the same inhabitants and is a very large County rich in Corne and Pastures and abounding with Fowle and Fish and all things necessary for foode The great Washes of Holland when the Sea flowes are couered with water but when it ebbes the ground is discouered to be passed but not without danger and with a good guide Lincolne the chief City was of old one of the most populous Cities of England and one that had greatest trade and hath a sumptuous Cathedral Church 26 Nottinghamslire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe City whereof is Nottingham pleasantly seated In the Westerne part is the Wood called Shirewood feeding infinit numbers of Fallow and Red Deare whether the Kings of old were wont to retire for hunting 27 Darbyshire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe towne whereof is Darby faire and well inhabited the Ayle whereof is for goodnesse prouerbially preferred before that kind of drinke in any other Towne The Westerne part hath high Mountaines called Peake yeelding Leade which they make into Sowes and stibium in his proper vaines is there found Likewise there Mil-stones are out out and there is the old Castle called the Castle in the Peake neare which is a great hole or caue in the Mountaine gaping wide and hauing many inward caues and this hole with reueuerence be it spoken is vulgarly called The Diuels ars at Peuke of which many fables are told and the place is accounted among the miracles of England The like fables are told of 〈◊〉 hole not farre distant very steepe and deepe 28 Warwickshire was of old inhabited by the Cornauij wherein is Couentry a large faire and walled Citie so called of the Couent of Monkes and at this day it is the fairest City within-land wherof the chiefe trade of old was making round caps of wooll but the same being now very little vsed the trade is decaied Warwick is the chiefe City of the County and neare the same vpon the hill Blacklow Peter of Gaueston was beheaded by the Lords of the Kingdome Not farre thence is a transparant and pleasant but little Wood and there be cleare Fountaines which place yeelds sweete solitude for the Muses and there they report that the famous worthy Guy of Warwick after many aduentures atchieued did first liue an Heremites life and was after death buried 29 Worcestershire had of old the same inhabitants which after in the time of Beda were called Wiccij either of wic signifying a corner or bay or of wyches signifying 〈◊〉 in the Saxons tongue And there are excellent salt-pits or Brookes and new fountaines of salt are daily found The Country is happy in the healthfull ayre tertility of soile and sweete Riuers but especially yeeldeth abundance of Peares of which they make Perry a counterfeit wine but cold and flatuous as all those kinds of drinke are Worcester the chiefe City of the County was built by the Romans and is compassed with a wall and hath the seate of a Bishop and a faire Cathedrall Church with the Monuments of Iohn King of England and Arthur Prince of Wales It is also beautified with many inhabitants rich trade of wollen cloth faire buildings and the number of Churches 30 Staffordshire had of old the same inhabitants and towards the South it hath pit-coales and some vaines of Iron but the greatest quantitie and best kind of pit-coales is in Nottinghamshire Stone is a Towne of Traffike Lichfeild is a large and faire City so called as the field of dead bodies and it is beautified with the seate of a Bishop his Pallace and the house of the Prebends My selfe passing that way did reade these Epitaphes in the Cathedrall Church The first of a Deane Sis testis Christe quod non iacet hic lapis iste Corpus vt ornetur sed spirittus vt memoretur O Christ me witnesse beare that this stone lies not here To grace the vile body but the soules memorie And another excellent Epitaph but superstitious and I know not whose Quisquis eris qui transieris sta perlege plora Sum quod eris fuer amque quod es pro me precor ora Who ere thou be that passest by stand reade and houle Such shalt thou be I was like thee pray for my soule Yet I remember not well whether these were two Epitaphes or onely one and for one man 31 Shropshire had of old the same inhabitants and was a fortified and manned frontyer against the Welsh then diuided from the English and their enemies and thereupon was named the Marches Ludlow is a Towne of more beauty then antiquity beautified with the Pallace of the King or rather of the Prince of Wales and there is a Counsell or Court of Iustice erected for Wales the borders not vnlike to the French Parliaments and instituted by Henry the eight It consists of the President of Wales there residing of a Secretary an Atturney a Solicitor and foure Iustices of the Counties of Wales and as many Counsellers as
to that of fifteene and a halfe and the Latitude extends also foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty foure degrees to that of fifty eight degrees In the Geographicall description I will follow Camden as formerly This famous Iland in the Virginian Sea is by olde Writers called Ierna Inuerna and Iris by the old Inhabitants Eryn by the old Britans Yuerdhen by the English at this day Ireland and by the Irish Bardes at this day Banno in which sence of the Irish word Auicen cals it the holy Iland besides Plutarch of old called it Ogigia and after him Isidore named it Scotia This Ireland according to the Inhabitants is deuided into two parts the wild Irish and the English Irish liuing in the English Pale but of the old Kingdomes fiue in number it is deuided into fiue parts 1 The fast is by the Irish called Mowne by the English Mounster and is subdeuided into sixe Counties of Kerry of Limricke of Corcke of Tipperary of the Holy Crosse and of Waterford to which the seuenth County of Desmond is now added The Gangaui a Scithean people comming into Spaine and from thence into Ireland inhabited the County of Kerry full of woody mountaines in which the Earles of Desmond had the dignity of Palatines hauing their House in Trailes a little Towne now almost vninhabited Not farre thence lies Saint Mary Wic vulgarly called Smerwicke where the Lord Arthur Gray being Lord Deputy happily ouerthrew the aiding troopes sent to the Earle of Desmond from the Pope and the King of Spaine On the South side of Kerry lies the County of Desmond of old inhabited by three kinds of people the Lucens being Spaniards the Velabri so called of their seate vpon the Sea waters or Marshes and the Iberns called the vpper Irish inhabiting about Beerehauen Baltimore two Hauens well known by the plentiful fishing of Herrings and the late inuasion of the Spaniards in the yeere 1601. Next to these is the County of Mec Carti More of Irish race whom as enemy to the Fitz-geralds Queene Elizabeth made Earle of Glencar in the yeere 1556. For of the Fitz-Geralds of the Family of the Earles of Kildare the Earles of Desmond descended who being by birth English and created Earles by King Edward the third became hatefull Rebels in our time The third County hath the name of the City Corke consisting almost all of one long streete but well knowne and frequented which is so compassed with rebellious neighbours as they of old not daring to marry their Daughters to them the custome grew and continues to this day that by mutuall marriages one with another all the Citizens are of kinne in some degree of Affinity Not farre thence is Yoghall hauing a safe Hauen neere which the Vicounts of Barry of English race are seated In the fourth County of Tipperary nothing is memorable but that it is a Palatinate The little Towne Holy-Cresse in the County of the same name hath many great priuiledges The sixth County hath the name of the City Limerike the seate of a Bishop wherein is a strong Castle built by King Iohn Not farre thence is Awue the seate of a Bishop and the lower Ossery giuing the title of an Earle to the Butlers and the Towne Thurles giuing them also the title of Vicount And there is Cassiles now a poore City but the seate of an Archbishoppe The seuenth County hath the name of the City Watersord which the Irish call Porthlargi of the commodious Hauen a rich and well inhabited City esteemed the second to Dublyn And because the Inhabitants long faithfully helped the English in subduing Ireland our Kings gaue them excessiue priuiledges but they rashly failing in their obedience at King Iames his comming to the Crowne could not in long time obtaine the confirmation of their old Charter 2 Lemster the second part of Ireland is fertile and yeelds plenty of Corne and hath a most temperate mild Aire being deuided into ten Counties of Catterlogh Kilkenny Wexford Dublyn Kildare the Kings County the Queenes County the Counties of Longford of Fernes and of Wickle The Cariondi of old inhabited Caterlogh or Carloo County and they also inhabited great part of Kilkenny of vpper Ossery and of Ormond which haue nothing memorable but the Earles of Ormond of the great Family of the Butlers inferiour to no Earle in Ireland not to speake of Fitz pairic Baron of vpper Ossery It is redicnious which some Irish who will be beleeued as men of credit report of Men in these parts yeerely turned into Wolues except the aboundance of melancholy humour transports them to imagine that they are so transformed Kilkenny giuing name to the second County is a pleasant Towne the chiefe of the Townes within Land memorable for the ciuility of the Inhabitants for the Husbandmens labour and the pleasant Orchards I passe ouer the walled Towne Thomastowne and the ancient City Rheban now a poore Village with a Castle yet of old giuing the title of Barronet I passe ouer the Village and strong Castle of Leighlin with the Countrey adioyning vsurped by the Sept of the Cauanaghs now surnamed Omores Also I omit Kosse of old a large City at this day of no moment The third County of Wexford called by the Irish County Reogh was of old inhabited by the Menappij where at the Towne called Banna the English made their first discent into Ireland and vpon that Coast are very dangerous flats in the Sea which they vulgarly call Grounds The City Weshford Weisford or Wexford is the cheefe of the County not great but deseruing praise for their faithfulnesse towards the English and frequently inhabited by Men of English race The Cauci a Seabordering Nation of Germany and the Menappij aforesaid of old inhabited the territories now possessed by the Omores and Ohirns Also they inhabited the fourth County of Kildare a fruitfull soyle hauing the cheese Towne of the same name greatlie honoured in the infancie of the Church by Saint Briget King Edward the second created the Giralds Earles of Kildare The Eblani of old inhabited the territory of Dublin the fifth County hauing a fertile soyle and rich pastures but wanting wood so as they burne Turffe or Seacoale brought out of England The City Dublyn called Diuelin by the English and Balacleigh as seated vpon hurdles by the Irish is the cheefe City of the Kingdome and seate of Iustice fairely built frequently inhabited and adorned with a strong Castle fifteene Churches an Episcopall seate and a faire Colledge an happy foundation of an Vniuersity laid in our Age and indowed with many priuiledges but the Hauen is barred and made lesse commodious by those hils of sands The adioyning Promontory Hoth-head giues the title of a Barron to the Family of Saint Laurence And towards the North lies Fengall a little Territory as it were the Garner of the Kingdome which is enuironed by the Sea and great Riuers and this situation hath defended it from the incursion of Rebels in former