those fortifications of the Britans which Tacitus termeth rudes informes saxorum compages that is rude and ilfavoured compacted piles of stone As for the said Demi-Iland it selfe being of a good bignesse and replenished with villages it is named Meneg and no doubt that MENNA which out of Cornelius a writer of Annals but whether he be Tacitus I wot not Jornandes in his Geticks describeth and is in some copies found written Memma For it is as he saith In the utmost coast of Britaine having in it great store of mettall mines very full of grasse and herbes bringing forth more plentifully all those things which serve for pastorage of beasts rather than nourishment of men But where as he said that it hath plenteous store of Mettals it is now so destitute that it may seeme long since to have beene exhaust thereof The Sailers at this day call the utmost South-West point thereof Lisard Ptolomee The PROMONTORIE OF THE DANMONII add OCRINVM Aethicus in that strange Geographie of his OCRANVM and he reckoneth it among the mountaines of the West Ocean Which name whether it take of Ocra which by Sext. Pompeius signifieth a craggy hill I dare not affirme And yet among the Alpes Ocrea Ocriculum and Interocrea drew their denomination of their steepe and rocky site But seeing that Ochr betokeneth in the British tongue an Edge what if I should thinke the name was given to this Promontorie because it hath a sharpe edge and groweth at the end pointed in fashion of a cone In the turning in of the shore from this Meneg you meet with a Bay very commodious for ships to harbour in by reason of so many turnings cones and angled windings therein receiving into it the little river Vale. Neere unto which within the countrey flourished sometime that ancient Towne Voluba mentioned by Ptolomee but it is long since either utterly decayed or hath lost his name yet it remaineth partly in Valemouth or Falemouth Haven This Haven is as noble as Brundusium it selfe in Italie of exceeding great capacity for it is able to receive an hundred ships which may ride therein so a part by themselves that out of never a one of them the top of anothers Mast can be seene and most safe withall under the wind by reason that it is enclosed on every side with brims of high rising banks In the very entrance of this Haven there mounteth up an high and steep craggy rock which the inhabitants call Crage The gullet on either hand as well for the defense and safetie of the place as for terror to enemies is fortified with block-houses to wit the castle of S. Mandâ—â— East-ward and toward the West the fort Pendinas built both by King Henrie the Eighth Of which fortresses the Antiquarian Poet writeth thus Pendinas tenet asperi cacumen Celsuâ— montis intonat frequenter Mauditi quoque subsidet rotundum Castrum impetu fulminat furenti Portus ostia quá patent Falensis Pendinas mounted is aloft On craggy cliffe and thundreth oft S. Maudit eke a castle round That stands beneath on lower ground With gunshot makes Fale mouth resound But the Haven it selfe is by Ptolomee called Ostium CENIONIS The mouth of Cenio doubtlesse of the British word Geneu which betokeneth a doore and entrance And this to bee true the Towne Tregenie neere adjoyning doth testifie for it is as much if a man interpret it as a little Towne by the Mouth Vpon the innermore creeks and nooks of this Haven there stand some Townes namely Peryn for a market well frequented where Walter Bronescome Bishop of Excester in the yeeae 1288. erected a Collegiat Church they call it Glasnith and twelve Prebendaries Arwenak the seat of the ancient and noble family of the Killegrewes Truro in the Cornish tongue Truru so called of three Streets encircled as it were with two rivers a Maior Towne as they call it and endowed with many priviledges and coynage of tin also Grampound which is seated farthest from the Haven and neighbour to it is Golden the inheritance of Tregian a house ancient and well allied But descending to the Havens mouth you may see Fenten-Gollan in English Hartes-well lately the seat of Carminow a family anciently of high esteeme for bloud and wealth betweene whom and the Lord Scrope two hundred yeeres since was a plea commenced in the Court of Chivalry for bearing in a shield Azure a Bend Or. Vnder which on the Sea side lieth the territorie of Rosseland so named as some thinke as if it were a roseplot but as I suppose because it is an heath or place of lings for so Ros signifieth in the British tongue Whereof Rosse in Scotland and another Rosse in Wales have their names as being tracts drie hungry and barren Howbeit this heere through the industrie of the husbandmen is more battle-ground and fruitfull Beyond this Rosseland presently the Ocean as the land retireth and giveth back shooteth in and maketh a large Bay they call it Tru-ar-draith Bay which is by interpretation The Bay of the towne upon the sand whereunto fall many fresh rillets amongst which that is principal which passeth by Lanladron whose Lord S. Serlo Lanladron was summoned a Baron to the Parliament in that age when the select men for wisedome and worth amongst the Gentrie were called to Parliament and their posterity omitted if they were defective therein Scarse two miles from hence whereas the river Fawey falleth into the Sea lieth the Towne Fowey Foath in Cornish stretching out in length upon the sea banke a Towne most renowned in former ages for sea-fights which the very armes of the Towne doe witnesse as being compounded of the Cinque-ports arms By the haven it hath bulwarks on both sides built by King Edward the Fourth who shortly after being displeased with these townesmen of Fowey for that when the warre in France was compounded they practised piracy upon the French tooke from them all their ships and furniture for shipping Von the other bank over against it standeth Hall situate on the hanging of an hill with a right pleasant vvalke the habitation full vvell knovvne of Sir Reginald Mohun Knight of an ancient and noble house by birth as descended from the Mohunes of Somerset and the Courtneyes Earles of Devonshire Farther vvithin the countrie and by the same river VZELLA mentioned by Ptolomee is seated vvhich tovvne hauing not lost altogether the old name is at this day called Lest-uthiell It stood anciently upon an high hill vvhere the old castle Lestmel now sheweth his ruins but it was removed lower into the valley From the high situation it received the ancient name for Vchel in the British tongue soundeth as much as high or aloft whence Vxellodunum also in France tooke the name because the towne standing upon an hill had a very steep fall on every side In the British storie this is called Pen-uchelcoit that
farre remote from all memory are over-cast with such mists and darkenesse that the truth seemes rather to bee wished than hoped for yet for all that will I doe my best to trace out the truth and declare as briefly as I can what my judgement is not minding to put downe ought prejudiciall to any man but most willing if any one shall bring more probable matter to welcome and embrace the same For I affect and love the truth not in my selfe more than in another and in whom soever I shall see it I will most willingly and gladly entertaine it First by the Readers good leave I will take this for granted and proved that ancient Nations in the beginning had names of their owne and that afterwards from these the Greeks and Latines by wresting them to the analogie or proportion of their speech imposed names upon regions and countreys to speake more plainely That people were knowne by their names before regions and places and that the said regions had their denominations of the people Who can deny that the names of the Jewes Medes Persians Scythians Almans French or Gauls Betulians Saxons Englishmen Scots c. were before Jewry Media Persia Scythia Alamaine France or Gaule Betulia Saxonie England Scotland c. And who sees not that these words sprang out of the other Of the Samâ—ites Insubres and Belgae we reade that Livie and Caesar first named the countreys themselves Samnitium Insubrium and Belgium Of the Franci in the time of Constantinus Maximus as is to be seene in his coines the place where they were seated took the name of Francia first from the Burgundi Sidonius Appolinaris first framed Burgundie In the same sort we must of necessitie think that this our Island Britaine tooke denomination from the Inhabitants or from the Gaules their neighbours That these first Inhabitants were called Brit or Brith some things induce me to thinke First and formost that verse which goeth about under the name of Sybilla 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Twixt Brits and Gaules their neighbours rich in gold that much abound The roaring Ocean Sea with bloud full filled shall resound Moreover the authoritie of Martial Juvenal and Ausonius Procopius also who nameth this Isle BRITTA In like manner the old Inscriptions set up by the Britaines themselves wherein are read BRITO BRITONES BRITTUS COH BRITTON ORDINIS BRITTON and at Rome in the Church of Saint Mary the round NATIONE BRITTO as also in this which is seene at Amerbachium in Germanie which I will put downe here underneath because it maketh mention of Triputium a place in Britaine not knowne NVMPHISO NO BRITTON TRIPVTIENO SVB CVRA MO VLPI MALCHI 7. LEG XXII PO PO FO The Saxons also themselves called the Britans in their language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Witichindas the Saxon every where namedth the Britans Britae so that the word BRIT is doubtlesse the primitive from whence Brito is derived and from whence the first glympse of light leading to the word Britaine seemeth to appeare Considering now that Nations devised their names of that wherein they either excelled others or were knowne from others whether in regard of their first founders honour as the Iönes of Javan the Israelites of Israël the Chananites of Chanaan the sonne of Cham or whether in respect of their nature conditions and inclinations as the Iberi after the Hebrew Etymologie because they were miners the Heneti for that they were straglers the Nomades because they gave themselves to the breeding and feeding of Cattell the Alemans or Germanes for that they were esteemed valiant men the French or Frankners for beeing free the Pannonians for wearing coats with cloth-sleeves as Dio conceiteth it the Ethiopians of their black hue and the Albanes because they were borne with white haire whereupon marke I pray you as Solinus saith The colour of the haire upon the head gave name unto a people Seeing also that our countrey men who were by a name common to them and their neighbours called Cimbri and Cumeri had no marke whereby they might bee distinguished and knowne from the borderers better than by that manner of theirs to paint their bodies for the most sufficient Authors that be as Caesar Mela Plinie and the rest doe shew that the Britaines coloured themselves with woade called in Latine Glastum and Glass at this day with them signifieth Blew What if I should conjecture that they were called Britans of their depainted bodies For whatsoever is thus painted and coloured in their ancient countrey speech they call Brith Neither is there cause why any man should thinke this Etymologie of Britaines to be harsh and absurd seeing the very words sound alike and the name also as an expresse image representeth the thing which in Etymologies are chiefly required For Brith and Brit doe passing well accord and that word Brith among the Britans implieth that which the Britans were indeed to wit painted depainted died and coloured as the Latine Poets describe them and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is having their backs pide or medly coloured as Oppianus termeth them Neither will it be impertinent as small a matter as it is to note here that as I have observed in the names of well neere all the most ancient Britaines there appeareth some signification of a colour which no doubt arose from this kind of painting The red colour is of the Britaine 's called Coch and Goch which in my judgement lieth couched in these names Cogidunus Argentocoxus and Segonax The same Britaines call the blacke colour Dû which after a sort sheweth it selfe in Mandubratius Cartimandua Togodumnus Bunduica Cogidunus The white colour is with them named Gwin the very prints as it were and expresse tokens of which word me thinkes I see in Venutius and Immanuentius Gwellw among them signifieth that which Color aqueuâ— among the Latines doth that is to say a wan or waterish colour and this appeareth evidently in the names of Vellocatus Caruillius and Suella Glass in the British tongue is as much as Blew which is seene in the name of King Cuniglasus For Gildas interpreteth it to be all one with Fulvus or as some copies have Furvus Laniâ— that is a Lion tawnie or coale blacke Butcher Aure which betokeneth a faire yellow or golden colour bewraieth it selfe in Cungetorius and Arviragus A lively and gallant colour is with them called Teg which maketh some little shew in Prasutagus and Carattacus But if we be perswaded that the Britans borrowed the names of mingled colours together with the very simple colours themselves of the Romans for certaine it is that they tooke from the Romans Werith for Viridis that is Greene Melin for Melinus that is a Quince yellow colour then if I thinke that there lyeth close some note of the colour Prasinus that is Leeke-blade greene in Prasutagus and of the red vermillon or Sinopre colour called of
themselves of Holland then called Batavia under Constantius Chlorus Constantine the Great and his sonnes being received as Liege-men and translated from thence to inhabite the waste and desert countries of Gaule either by the swords point making way into more plentifull regions or else as Zosimus writeth driven out by the Saxons departed out of Holland From which time all the people bordering upon that sea coast in Germanie which were men of warre and professed Piracie as before they grew to be Franci so now they became clepid Saxons those Nations I meane which inhabite Iutland Sleswicke Holst Ditmarse the Bishopricke of Breme the countie of Oldenburgh both East and West Frisland and Holland For the nation of the Saxons as Fabius Quaestor Ethelward himselfe descended of the Saxons royall bloud writeth was wholly all that upon the seacoast from the river Rhene unto the citie Donia and which now is commonly called Dane-Marc Which author that I may acknowledge by whom I have profited master Thomas Allen of Oxford an excellent man and one endued with very many singular Arts first found out and of his courtesie imparted the same unto me with many others Out of this Maritime tract the Saxons fleshed now with the slaughter of many Romanes brake many times into the Romans provinces and for a great while annoied this Iland untill Hengist himselfe came Who out of Batavia or Holland sailed into Britaine and built that Castle of Leiden in Holland as not onely the Hollanders Annals doe testifie but also that noble Ianus Dousa a man of excellent wit and learning who of that Castle versifieth thus Quem circinato maenium ut ambitu Sic arcuatis fornicibus novum Putatur Hengistus Britanno Orbe redux posuisse victor Which Hengist by report when he Return'd from Britaine with victorie Built new with walles in compasse round And on vaults arched under ground The Iutae who had that name as many thinke from the Gutes Getes or Gothes for in a manuscript booke we read Geatun did for certaine inhabite the upper part of Cimbrica Chersonesus which still the Danes call Iuitland descended haply of those Guttae whom Ptolomee hath placed in Scandia whose habitation this day is called Gothland But take heede you thinke not with Iornandes that this was the native country of those Gothes who with victorious conquests over-ran all Europe for the most ancient and best approoved writers have recorded unto us that they dwelt beyond the river Ister fast by Pontus Euxinus and were before time called Getae But in what place the Angles were seated it is a question neither are all men of one opinion Most authors place them in Westphalia where Engern standeth and where the Suevians whom Tacitus and Ptolomee make mention of had their abode whom I am willing to beleeve if wee speake of the age of Tacitus but I suppose that from thence they came downe to the tract by the sea side Others seeke for them in Pomerania where the towne Angloen flourisheth But seeing these reach into the more inland parts of Germany far from our seas surely we must seek for some other seat of our Angles or Englishmen which Beda willed me to looke for between the Saxons and Iutes The Angles quoth he came out of that countrey which is called Angulus and is reported from that time to lie waste betweene the Provinces of the Saxons and Iutes Now seeing that between Iuitland and Holsatia the ancient countrey of the Saxons there is a little Province in the Kingdome of Dania named at this day Angel beneath the citie Flemsburg which Lindebergius in his Epistles calleth Little Anglia I dare affirme that now at length I have found the place of our ancestors habitation and that from thence the Angles came into this Iland And to averre this the more confidently I have good warrant from the authoritie of that ancient writer Ethelwardus whose words be these Old Anglia is sited between the Saxons and the Giots they have a capitall towne which in the Saxon tongue is named Sleswic but the Danes call it Haithby In which verie place Ptolomee seemeth to set the Saxons So that a Poet of the middle time sung not untunably in this manner Saxonia protulit Anglos Hoc patet in lingua niveoque colore That Englishmen from Saxons draw descent Their colour white and tongue make evident Of these Angles some part having passed forward into the inmore quarters of Germanie being blended with the Longobards and the Suevians went as farre as Italie and are thought to have left their footing in Engelheim the native countrey of Charles the Great Ingolstad Engleburg Englerute in Germanie and Angleria in Italie But what the reason or Etymologie is of the name I dare not definitively pronounce Away with that Angulus the son of Humblus and with Queene Angela whom foolish folke babble to have beene the founders of our Nation Neither thinke we that their name was imposed of Angulus that is An angle or corner as if it were a corner of the world as some building upon that stale verse seeme to hold Anglia terra ferax fertilis angulus orbis Insula praedives quae toto vix eget orbe England a fruitfull angle is without the world so wide An Iland rich that hath small need of all the world beside Neither doth Goropius his conjecture deserve credit but rather a smile which deriveth Anglos that is Englishmen from Angle that is A fishing rod or a Fish-hooke because saith he they hooked all unto them and were as we say Good Anglers But he that seeth the Etymologie of Engelbert Englehard and such like Dutch names may see perhaps the originall of Angli also Moreover it may seeme out of Procopius that the Frisones likewise came with others into Britaine The text whole as it lieth for that the booke is not commonly extant in print I will not thinke much here to set downe even as Franciscus Pithaeus a singular good man and in all sorts of Antiquitie most skilfull hath exemplified it unto me out of the Kings Library in Paris 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 That is according to my grosse translation thus The Iland Britaine three most populous nations doe inhabite which have everie one their severall King to rule them and these Nations be called Angili Frisones and after the name of the very Iland Britones Now they seeme to be so great a multitude of people that every yeere a mightie number of them with their wives and children flit from thence unto the Franks and they give them entertainment in that part of their Land which seemeth most desert above the rest and hereupon men say they challenge unto themselves the verie Iland And verily not long since when the King of the Franks sent certaine of his people in Embassage to Constantinople unto the Emperour Iustinian he sent withall some English pretending ambitiously that this Iland was under his
used in old time before they tooke any enterprize in hand God grant me gracious good speed In the severall discourses of every of them I will declare as plainely and as briefly as I can who were their ancient Inhabitants what is the reason of their names how they are bounded what is the nature of the soile what places of antiquitie and good account are therein what Dukes likewise or Earles have beene in each one since the Norman Conquest And in this succession of Earles to confesse frankly by whom I have taken profit I doe willingly and justly acknowledge that Thomas Talbot a most diligent Clerke in the Records of the Tower a man of singular skill in our antiquities hath given me much light And begin I will at the farthest parts in the West that is to say at Cornwall and so passe over the other countries in order imitating herein Strabo Ptolomee and the most ancient Geographers who alwaies begin their description in the Westerne countries as being first from the Meridian DANMONII THat Region which according to the Geographers is the first of all Britaine and growing straiter still and narrower shooteth out farthest into the West and hath on the North side the Severne-Sea on the South the British and on the West the Vergivian or Westerne Ocean beating upon it was in ancient time inhabited by those Britaines whom Solinus called DVNMONII Ptolomee DAMNONII or as we find in some other copies more truely DANMONII Which name if it bee not derived from those ever-continuing mines of tinne in this tract which the Britans terme Moina may seeme to come of the dwelling there under hils For their habitation all over this Country is somewhat low and in valleys which manner of dwelling is called in the British tongue Dan-munith in which sense also the Province next adjoyning in like respect is at this day named by the Britans Duffneint that is to say Low valleys Now whether the OSTIDAMNII called also OSTAEI and OSTIONES of whom Strabo maketh mention out of Pithaeas of Marfiles be our Danmonij I wish the studious searchers of Antiquity would weigh with themselves and examine somewhat more diligently For seated they were by their report in the farthest parts of Europe toward the West Ocean over against Spaine not farre from the Isle Vxantissa now called Vshant Which particulars every one doe very well and in each point agree unto this Region of our Danmonij And seeing that those Ostiones be called by Artemidorus COSSINI as Stephanus in his Cities seemeth to note I wish likewise they would consider because these people are termed also Corini whether in stead of COSSINI we are not to read CORINI For we read Fusij for Furij and Valesij for Valerij And surely the Geographers have not so much as a glimps where to seeke these Ostidamnij and Cossini by the westerne Sea if they be hence excluded But the Country of this nation is at this day divided into two parts knowne by later names of Cornwall and Denshire whereof wee will speake in order CORNWALL COrnwall which also by later Writers is called Cornubia in Latin of all Britaine doth beare most Westward and is inhabited by that remnant of Britans which Marinus Scotus calleth Occidentales Britones that is Britaines of the West parts who in the British tongue for as yet they have not lost their ancient language name it Kernaw because it waxeth smaller and smaller in manner of an horne and runneth forth into the Sea with little promontories as they were hornes on every side For the Britaines call an horne Corn and hornes Kern in the plurall number although others would have Cornwall to take the name of one Corineus I know not what Companion of Brutus and doe call it Corinea according to this verse of a fabulous Poet Pars Corinea datur Corinaeo de duce nomen Patria deque viro gens Corinensis habet To Captaine Corineus part was given to hold by right Of him both coast Corinea and people Cornish height But no strange matter it is if a man search Antiquities for many places to have their denominations given them of such kind of scite as this In Crete and Taurica Chersonessus there bee promontories termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Rams Foreheads because they shoote forth into the sea after the fashion of Rams hornes Semblably Cyprus was of the Greekes in old time called Cerastis for that it butteth on the sea with promontories bearing out like hornes so that it is no marvell if the coast bee called Kernaw and Corn crookening inward as it doth like unto an horne and having divers smal capes and points sticking out as it were hornes Whereupon when in the heat of the Saxons warre many Britans retired themselves into this tract trusting to the naturall strength of the place for they knew that the waies by land were hard enough to bee passed through by reason of mountaines and crossed in divers places with armes of the Sea that sailing likewise there was combersome because the places were unknowne the Saxon being Conquerour who called all forraine things and aliens or strangers in their language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 named the Inhabitants hereof 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Hereof sprang the Latin name Cornwallia and in the later age Cornubia and in some writers Occidua Wallia So farre it is off that it should be called Cornwallia of the Gaules that conquered it which some there bee that in flatterie of the French name and nation would uphold who if they were as quicke-sighted at home as they bee curious abroad might find that their Britaine lying upon the sea coast opposite to this country is so named of our Britan and that Cornovaille no small territorie therein which speaketh the same language that our Cornishmen doe tooke name of our countrey-men that passed over hence to dwell there For as these our Britaines of the West parts aided the Armorici of Gaule inhabiting in that tract in their warres against Caesar upon which occasion hee pretended a quarrell to invade Britaine and they afterwards comming thither as wee said before changed the name of Armorici and called it Britaine so in the foregoing ages readie they were and ever at hand to helpe those Britaines their country-men against the French and during the tempestuous troubles of the Danish warre some of them put over thither also and are thought to have left this name of Cornovaille behind them there But to leave that Cornovaille This our Cornwall as if nature made amends and recompence for the incroching in of the sea is for the most part raised on high with mountaines being in the vallies betweene of an indifferent glebe with which the Sea weede or reit commonly called Orewood and a certaine kind of fruitfull Sea-sand they make so ranke and battle that it is incredible The Sea coast is beautified with very many
Vautorts and partly to the Prior. Of late time it became of a poore fisher village to be a great Towne and for the number of Inhabitants growne to that passe as now it is to be seene that it may bee compared with a Citie Such is the commodiousnesse of the haven which without striking saile admitteth into the bosome thereof the tallest ships that be doth harbour them very safely as well within Tamar as Plime and beside against hostilitie sufficiently fortified For before the very midst of the havens mouth lieth S. Michaels Isle strongly fortified both by nature and art as for the haven it selfe at the very Towne it hath fortifications on both sides and is chained over when need requireth having on the South side a Pier against it and upon an hill next adjoyning a Castle built as it is thought by the Vautorts The whole Towne is divided into foure Wards governed by a Major ordained there by K. Henry the Sixth and under him every ward had in times past a Captaine set over it each of them likewise had his inferiour officers As touching that fabulous wrestling betweene Corinaeus and Gogmagog the Giant in this place let it suffice to set downe a verse or two out of Architrenius concerning the same and the Westerne Giants Hos auidum belli robur Corinaeus Averno Praecipitis misit cubitis ter quatuor altum Gogmagog Herculeâ suspendit in aere luctâ Anthaeumque suum scopulo detrusit in aequor Potavitque dato Thetis ebria sanguine fluctus Diuisumque tulit mare corpus Cerberus umbram These martiall monsters Giants strong by Corinaeus slaine With Gogmagog twelve cubits high a combat did remaine Whom up he hang'd twixt heaven and earth thus once Alcides hung Antaeus fell and from the rock into the Sea him flung His bloud gave Thetis the waves to drinke her selfe therewith was drunke His grisly ghost had Cerberus when body torne was sunke As for that rock from whence they say this Giant was cast down it is now called the Haw a very hill standing between the Town and the Ocean on the top whereof which lieth spred into a most pleasant plaine there is a right delectable and goodly prospect every way and for the use of Sailers a very faire Compasse erected The circuit of this Town not great but much renowned it is among forraine nations and not so much for the commodious haven as the valour of the Inhabitants in sea services of all sorts For to say nothing of all others from hence was Sir Francis Drake that famous Knight and most skilfull man at sea in our daies who first as I have heard himselfe relate to repaire the losses which he had sustained at the Spaniards hands for two yeares space together with victorious successe held and kept the Bay of Mexico as it were besieged and travailed over the Isthmus of Dariena From whence when he had once beheld the South sea as the Spaniards call it as another Themistocles stirred up with the Trophees of Miltiades thought hee should have neglected himselfe his country and his owne glory unlesse he sailed over it which continually presented it selfe as an object to his adventurous mind In the yeare therefore 1577. putting to sea from hence he entred into the streits of Magellan and in two yeares and ten moneths through many alternative varieties of fortune God being his guide and valour his consort was the next after Magellanus that sailed round about the world Whereupon one wrote thus unto him Drake pererrati novit quem terminus orbis Quemque semel mundi vidit uterque polus Si taceant homines facient te sidera notum Sol nescit comitis immemor esse sui Sir Drake whom well the worlds end knows which thou did'st compasse round And whom both poles of heaven once saw which North and South doe bound The Starres above will make thee knowne if men here silent were The Sunne himselfe cannot forget his fellow-travailler The rest of his noble exploits and of others who descended from hence taking example by him flourished in glorious atchivements by sea seeing it belongs not to this place let Historians record in writing Neither have I ought else to say more of this Towne but that in the raigne of William Rufus there flourished heere one Ealphege a learned and married Priest For untill the yeare 1102. Priests in England were not forbidden to have their wives Then Anselme Archbishop of Canterbury violently forced both the sacred Scripture and nature also as our writers in those daies doe complaine and namely Henry of Huntingdon expresly of Anselme in these termes He prohibited English Priests to have wives who before-time were not prohibited Which as some thought to be a matter of greatest puritie so others againe tooke it to be most perilous lest while by this meanes they aimed at cleannesse above their power they should fall into horrible uncleannesse to the exceeding great shame of Christianitie More inward in the country and yet not farre from the water of Plim is Plimpton seated a mercate Towne well frequented where the remnants and deformed ruines of a Castle shew themselves of which many men have holden as our Lawyers terme it in Castle guard for it was the chiefe seat of the Redversies or the Riparii for both we read who were Barons of Plimpton and Earles of Denshire Next unto this stood Plimpton S. Mary the glorie whereof then fell to decay when as not long since the Colledge there of Canons was dissolved which William Warlewast Bishop of Exceter in old time had founded More Eastward you see Modburie a little Towne which acknowledgeth it selfe to appertaine to the ancient and right worshipfull family of the Campernulphs Knights who also are called in old Deeds De campo Arnulphi but commonly Champernouns which received much advancement and reputation by the heire of the Uautorts From Plims mouth where the South shore of this region beginneth the countrey runneth along with a large and great front as farre as to Stert a cape or promontorie for so the word in the English Saxon tongue signifieth but so soone as the shore hath drawne it selfe back land-ward the river Dert breaketh out which arising from the inward part of the country runneth downe apace through certaine leane and high grounds called thereupon Dertmore wherein of late were Lode stones found and carrieth downe with it certaine grit and sand out of the Tin-mines which by little and little choke up the channell through the Forrest of Dortmore where David of Sciredun held lands in Sciredun and Siplegh by this tenure or service to find two arrowes when the King his soveraigne Lord should come to hunt in that Forrest From thence by Dertinton a Baronie sometimes of the Martins who were Lords of Keimes in Wales it holdeth in his streame unto Totnes Which being an ancient little Towne standing pendant upon the fall of an hill
fought with good successe and slew all the valiantest men amongst them Yet did hee little or no good to his native country the Danes evermore renewing their forces still as they were overthrowne like unto that serpent Hydra A little from the fountaines where this river springeth standeth Gatton which now is scarce a small village though in times past it hath beene a famous towne To prove the antiquitie thereof it sheweth Roman coines digged forth of the ground and sendeth unto the Parliament two Burgesses Lower than it is seated Rhie-gat which if a man interpret according to our ancient language is as much as the Rivers course in a vale running out farre into the East called Holmesdale the Inhabitants whereof for that once or twice they vanquished the Danes as they wasted the country are wont in their owne praise to chaunt this Rythme The vale of Holmesdall Never wonne ne never shall This Rhie-gate carrying a greater shew for largenesse than faire buildings hath on the South-side a Parke thicke sette with faire groves wherein the right Noble Charles Earle of Nottingham Baron of Effingham and Lord Admirall of England hath a house where the Earles of Warren and Southrey had founded a prety Monasterie On the East side standeth a Castle mounted aloft now forlorne and for age ready to fall built by the same Earles and of the vale wherein it standeth commonly called Holmecastle under which I saw a wonderfull vault carried under the ground of arch-worke over head hollowed with great labour out of a soft gritte and crombling stone such as the whole hill standeth of These Earles of Warren as wee finde in the Offices or inquisitions held it in chiefe of the King in their Baronie from the conquest of England Hence runneth this river downe by Bechworth Castle for which Sir Thomas Browne obtained of King Henry the Sixth the libertie of holding a Faire For it is the habitation of the Brownes Knights out of which family since our grand-father can remember when Sir Anthony Browne had married Lady Lucie the fourth daughter of Iohn Nevil Marquesse Mont-a-cute Queene Mary honoured his sonnes sonne with the title of Vicount Mont-a-cute Some few miles from hence Westward Effingham sheweth it selfe the possession not long since of William Howard son to that Noble Thomas Duke of Norfolke that triumphed over the Scots who being created by Queene Mary Baron Howard of Effingham made Lord High-Admirall of England was first Lord Chamberlain unto Queene Elizabeth of most happy memorie and then Lord privie Seale whose sonne Charles now flourisheth Lord great Admirall of England whom in the yeare of our Lord 1597. the same Queene Elizabeth honoured also with the title of Earle of Nottingham of whom more in my Annales but now returne we to the river The Mole now being come as farre as Whitehill whereon the Box tree groweth in great plenty at the foote thereof hideth himselfe or rather is swallowed up and thereof the place is called the Swallow but after a mile or two neere unto Letherhed bridge boyling up and breaking forth taketh joy to spring out againe So that the Inhabitants of this tract may boast as well as the Spaniards that they have a bridge which feedeth many flockes of sheepe For this is a common by-word most rife in the Spaniards mouthes as touching the place where their river Anas now called Guadiana hideth himselfe for ten miles together Thus our Mole rising up a fresh hasteneth faire and softly by Stoke Dabernoun so named of the ancient possessors the Dabernouns gentlemen of great good note afterward by inheritance from them the possession of the Lord Bray and by Aesher sometimes a retyring place belonging to the Bishops of Winchester And then very neare Molesey whereunto it giveth name sheddeth himselfe into the Tamis After Tamis hath taken unto him the Mole hee carrieth his streame Northwardly and runneth fast by Kingstone called in times past Moreford as some will have it a very good mercate towne for the bignesse and well frequented well knowne also in old time by reason of a Castle there belonging to the Clares Earles of Glocester Which towne had beginning from a little towne more ancient then it of the same name standing upon a flat ground and subject to the inundation of Tamis In which when England was almost ruinated by the Danish warres Athelstan Edwin and Etheldred were crowned Kings upon an open stage in the Market place and of these Kings heere crowned it came to be named Kingstone as one would say The Kings Towne Tamis now turning his course directly Northward visiteth another place which the Kings chose for themselves sometimes to sojourne at which of the shining brightnesse they call Shene but now it is named Richmond wherein the most mighty Prince King Edward the Third when he had lived sufficiently both to glory and nature died with sorrow that hee conceived for the death of that most valiant and Martiall prince his sonne which sorrow pierced so deepe and stucke so neere him and all England beside that it farre exceeded all comfort And verily at this time if ever else England had a good cause to grieve For within one yeare after it lost the true praise of military prowesse and of accomplished vertue For both of them by bearing their victorious armes throughout all France struke so great a terrour wheresoever they came that as the father might most worthily with King Antiochus carrie the name of Thunder-bolt so his sonne with Pyrrhus deserved to bee named the Eagle Heere also departed Anne wife to King Richard the Second sister of the Emperour Wenzelaus and daughter to the Emperour Charles the fourth who first taught English women the manner of sitting on horsebacke which now is used whereas before time they rode very unseemely astride like as men doe Whose death also her passionate husband tooke so to the heart that he altogether neglected the said house and could not abide it Howbeit King Henry the Fifth readorned it with new buildings and in Shene a pretty village hard by he joyned thereto a little religious house of Carthusian Monks which he called The house of Iesu of Bethelem But in the raigne of Henry the seventh this Princely place was with a woefull sudden fire consumed almost to ashes Howbeit rising up againe forthwith farre more beautifull and glorious as it were a Phaenix out of her owne ashes by the meanes of the same King Henry it tooke this new name Richmond of the title hee bare being Earle of Richmond before he obtained the Crowne of England Scarce had that Noble King Henry the Seventh finished this new worke when in this place he yeilded unto nature and ended his life through whose care vigilancy policy and forecasting wisedome for time to come the State and common-weale of England hath to this day stood established and invincible From hence likewise his sonnes daughter Queene
least any man should thinke that as the Comicall Poet saith I deale by way of close pilfering I willingly acknowledge him and deserve he doth no lesse to have beene my foundation and fountaine both of all well-neere that I shall say Time as yet hath not bereft this Region of the ancient name but as it was called CANTIVM by Cesar Strabo Diodorus Siculus Ptolomee and others so that Saxons named it as Ninnius witnesseth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The countrey of the people inhabiting Cantium and wee Kent This name master Lambard deriveth from Caine which among the Britaines soundeth as much as a greene Bough because in old time it was shadowed with woods But it may be lawfull for mee to put in my conjecture whereas Britaine heere runneth out with a mightie nooke or corner into the East and I have observed that such a kind of nooke in Scotland is called Cantir Againe that the Inhabitants of another Angle in that part of the Island are by Ptolomee termed Cantae as also that the Cangani in Wales were possessed of another corner to say nothing of the Cantabri who likewise dwelt in an angle among the Celtiberians who as they came from one originall so likewise they were of the same language with our Britans I would guesse that the name was given by reason of the forme and scituation and so much the rather both for that our Frenchmen have used Canton for a Corner and that as it is probable from the old Language of the Gauls for it comes not from the Germane or Latine tongue which together with that old tongue be the mothers of this latter French tongue and also because this Countrey by all the old Geographers is called Angulus For it looketh full upon France with a huge Angle compassed with the aestuarie of Tamis and with the Ocean sea saving that Westward it hath Surrey and southward Sussex to confine upon it KENT THe Region which we call Kent extendeth it selfe in length from West to East fifty miles and from South to North 26. For scituation it is not uniforme as being more plaine toward the West and full of shady woods but higher Eastward by reason of hils mounting up with easie ascents The Inhabitants distinguish it as it lyeth South-east-ward from the Tamis into three plots or portions they call them steps or degrees the upper whereof lying upon Tamis they say is healthfull but not so wealthy the middle they account both healthfull and plentifull the lower they hold to bee wealthy but not healthy as which for a great part thereof is very moist yet it bringeth forth ranke grasse in great plenty Howbeit every where almost it is full of meadowes pastures and cornefields abounding wonderfully in apple-trees and cherrie-trees also which being brought out of Pontus into Italie in the 608. yeare after the foundation of Rome and in the 120. yeare after translated from thence into Britaine prosper heere exceeding well and take up many plots of land the trees being planted after a direct manner one against another by square most pleasant to behold It hath villages and townes standing exceeding thicke and well peopled safe rodes and sure harbours for ships with some veines of iron and marle but the aire is somewhat thicke and somewhere foggie by reason of vapours rising out of the waters At a word the revenues of the Inhabitants are greater both by the fertilitie of the soile and also by the neighbourhood of a great citie of a great river and the maine sea The same commendation of civilitie and courtesie which Cesar in old time gave the Inhabitants is yet of right due unto them that I may not speake of their warlike prowesse whereas a certaine Monke hath written How the Kentishmen so farre excelled that when our armies are ready to joyne battaile they of all Englishmen are worthily placed in the Front as being reputed the most valiant and resolute souldiers Which Iohn of Salisburie verifieth also in his Polycraticon For good desert saith he of that notable valour which Kent shewed so puissantly and patiently against the Danes it retaineth still unto these daies in all battailes the honour of the first and fore-ward yea and of the first conflict with the enemie In praise of whom William of Malmesbury hath likewise written thus The country people and towne-dwellers of Kent above all other Englishmen retaine still the resent of their ancient worthinesse And as they are more forward and readier to give honour and etertainment to others so they be more slow to take revenge upon others Cesar to speake briefly by way of Preface before I come to describe the particular places when he first attempted the conquest of our Island arrived at this countrey but being by the Kentish Britans kept from landing obtained the shore not without a fierce encounter When he made afterward his second voyage hither here likewise hee landed his armie and the Britaine 's with their horsemen and wagons encountred them couragiously but beeing soone by the Romans repulsed they withdrew themselves into the woods After this they skirmished sharpely with the Roman Cavallery in their march yet so as the Romans had every way the upper hand Also within a while after they charged the Romans againe and most resolutely brake through the midst of them and having slaine Laberius Durus Marshall of the field retired safe and the morrow after set upon the Foragers and victualers of the campe c. which I have briefly related before out of Cesars owne Commentaries At which time Cyngetorix Carvilius Taximagulus and Segonax were great Commanders of Kent whom he because he would be thought to have vanquished Kings termeth Kings whereas indeed they were but Lords of the countrey or Noble men of the better marke CANTIVM Quod nunc KENT But when the Romans were departed quite out of Britaine Vortigern who bare soveraigne rule in the greatest part of Britaine placed over Kent a Guorong that is to say a Vice Roy or Freed man under him and unwitting to him hee forthwith freely granted this region as Ninnius and William of Malmesbury write unto Hengist the Saxon for his daughter Rowens sake upon whom hee was exceedingly enamoured Hence it came that the first Saxon Kingdome erected in Britaine in the yeare of our Lord 456. was called by them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of the Kentishmen which after three hundred and twenty yeares when Baldred their last King was subdued fell to bee under the Dominion of the West Saxons to whom it continued subject untill the Normans Conquest For then if we may beleeve Thomas Spot the Monke for none of the more ancient Writers have recorded it the Yeomanrie of Kent at Swanes-comb a village this is where they say Suene the Dane sometime pitched his campe carrying before them in their hands every one a great greene bough representing a farre of a moving wood yeilded themselves
it with King Henrie the Eighth Somewhat lower hard by Darent standeth Lullingstone where there was sometime a Castle the seat of a family of the same name but now of Sir Percival Hart descended from one of the coheires of the Lord Bray Then Darent giveth name unto Darentford commonly Dartford a great mercat towne well frequented and well watered where King Edward the Third built a Nunnery which King Henry the Eighth converted into a house for himselfe and his successours Heere the rivelet Crey anciently called Crecan intermingleth it selfe with Darent when in his short course hee hath imparted his name to five townelets which hee watereth as Saint Mary Crey Pauls Crey Votes-Crey North Crey and Crey-ford in former ages Crecanford where Hengist the Saxon the eighth yeare after his arrivall joyned battaile with the Brittaines and after he had slaine their captaines brought them under with so great a slaughter that afterwards hee never stood in feare of them but established his kingdome quietly in Kent From the river Darent or Dart unto the mouth of Medway the Thames seeth nothing above him but little townes pleasantly seated which to passe over in silence were no prejudice either of their fame or any thing els Yet amongst them is Swans-combe of which I have heretofore spoken of honorable memorie among the Kentish men for obtaining their the continuance of their ancient franchises afterward it was well knowne by the Montceusies men of great Nobility the owners therof who had there Barony here-about And by it Graves-end so called as Master Lambert is my author as the Gereves-end that is the limit of the Gereve or Reve. A towne as well knowne as any other in England for the usuall passage by water betweene it and London since the Abbat of Grace by the tower of London to which it appertained obtained of King Richard the second that the inhabitants of it and Milton onely should transport passengers from thence to London King Henrie the Eighth when he fortified the sea coast raised two Platformes or Block-houses here and two other opposite on Essex side Beyond Graves-end is Shorn held anciently by Sir Roger Northwood by service to carry with other the kings tennants a white ensigne fortie daies at his owne charges when the King warred in Scotland Somewhat more within the land lieth Cobham the habitation for a long time of the Barons of Cobham of whom Iohn Cobham the last of that name founded a Colledge here and a castle at Cowling who left one onely daughter wife to Sir Iohn de la Pole Knight Shee likewise bare but one daughter though married in her time to many husbands But by Sir Reginald Braibrooke onely had shee issue As for her husband Sir Iohn Old Castle whiles hee endeavoured to bring in innovation in religion was both hanged and burnt Ioane her onely daughter by Sir Reginald Braybrooke was wedded unto Thomas Broke of Somersetshire from whom six Lord Cobhams have lineally descended and flourished in honorable reputation untill our time From Graves-end a little country called Ho lying as a demy Island between rivers Thames and Medway stretcheth it selfe into the East and is for situation but unholsome At the entry hereof is Cowling Castle built by Iohn Lord Cobham in a moorish ground and Cliffe a good bigge towne so called of a cliffe upon which it standeth But whether it bee that Clives at Ho so famous in the tender age and infancie of our English Church by reason of a Synode there holden I dare not as others doe affirme considering that in regard of the site it is a place inconvenient for such an assembly and besides that Clives at Hoo seemeth to have beene within the Kingdome of the Mercians As for the river Medweg now called Medway and in the British tongue unlesse I misse of the truth Vaga whereunto afterward was added Med hath his spring head in the wood Anderida which is termed the Weald that is a Wood-land country and taketh up the South-part of this region farre and wide At first whiles it carrieth but a slender streame it receiveth the Eden by Penshurst the seat anciently as it seemeth by the name of Sir Stephen de Penherst who also was called de Penshester a famous Warden of the Cinque ports but now the house of the Sidneies who derive their race from William de Sidney Chamberlaine to King Henrie the second out of which came Sir Henrie Sidney that renowned Lord deputy of Ireland who of the daughter of Iohn Dudley Duke of Northumberland and Earle of Warwicke begat Philip and Robert This Robert Iames our soveraigne King made right honorable first by the title of Baron Sidney of Penshurst and afterwards of Vicount Lisle But Sir Philip whom I cannot passe over in silence beeing the glorious starre of this familie a lively patterne of vertue and the lovely joy of all the learned sort fighting valerously with the enemy before Zutphen in Gelderland died manfully This is that Sidney whom as Gods will was he should be therefore borne into the world even to shew unto our age a sample of ancient vertues so his good pleasure was before any man looked for it to call for him againe and take him out of the world as beeing more worthy of heaven then earth Thus wee may see Perfect vertue sodainely vanisheth out of sight and the best men continue not long Then the river Medway branching it selfe into five streamlets is joyned with as many stone Bridges and thereof giveth the name of Tunbridge to the towne there situate as the towne of Bridges This about King William Rufus his time Richard sonne of Count Gilbert Grandchild to Godfrey Earle of Ewe Lord of Briony obtained in requitall for Briony in Normandie when there had bin long debate about Briony This Richard as William Gemeticensis writeth in recompence for the same castle received in England the towne of Tunbridge for it And the report goeth that the Lowy of Briony was measured round about with a line and with the same line brought into England hee received so much groūd measured out at Tunbridge Shortly after he built here a faire large castle fenced with the river a deepe ditch and strong walles and albeit it is now ruinous and 〈◊〉 Keepe attired with Ivie yet it manifestly sheweth what it was His posteritie who were Earles of Glocester and surnamed De Clare for that they were Lords of Clare in Suffolke built here a priorie for Chanons of Saint Augustines order founded the parish Church which was impropriated to the Knights of Saint Iohn of Hierusalem and compounded about the tenure of the Mannour for which there had beene long suit to hold it of the Archbishop of Canterburie by Knights fee and to be their high Stewards at their inthronizations From these Clares Earles of Glocester it came by an heire generall to Sir Hugh Audley Earle of Glocester and
These lands whilom by violence of breach and ruines great Such change makes time and what is it that long time doth not eate A sunder fell men say where as they both in one did grow The Seas brake in by force and through the mids did overthrow Both townes and grounds And Italy forthwith from Sicily side Did cut and them with in-let streight doth still part and divide Plinie sheweth likewise of Isles that Cyprus was rent from Syria Eubaea from Baeotia Besbicus from Bythinia being parts before of the maine land But none of the old writers was ever able to avouch that Britaine was so severed from the Maine onely those verses of Virgil and Claudian before cited by me in the very first entrance into this worke together with the conjecture of Servius Honoratus doe insinuate so much And yet Dominicus Marius Niger and Master Iohn Twin a right learned man and whosoever he was that wrested these verses made of Scicilia unto Britaine are of this opinion Britannia quondam Gallorum pars una fuit sed pontus aestus Mutavere situm rupit confinia Nereus Victor abscissos interluit aequore montes Some time was Britannie A part of France But swelling tides on hie Have changed the site and Nereus he as Conquerour hath torne The confines quite and runnes betweene the cliffs a sounder worne Considering therefore that in this matter there is no assured ground upon certaine authoritie the learned by laying and comparing the like examples in such narrow Seas as this for searching out of the truth propose these and such like points duly to be weighed and considered First whether the nature of the soyle in both shores be the same which verily is found here to be even so For the shore of either side where the distance betweene is narrowest riseth up with loftie cliffes of the same matter as it were and colour so as they may seeme to have beene riven asunder Secondly How great the breadth is of the sea or streight Certes the streight heere is not much broader than either the streight of Gibraltar or of Scicily to wit twenty foure miles over so as at the first sight one would imagine that these lands were severed by the billowes of the raging counter-seas For that the land sunke downeward by earth-quakes I hardly dare thinke seeing that this our Northen climate of the world is seldome shaken with earth-quakes and those when they happen be never great Thirdly How deepe the streight is As the Streight of Sicilie is sounded in depth 80. paces so this of ours exceedeth not 25. fathom whereas the sea on both sides of it is much deeper Fourthly Of what nature the ground is in the bothoms stony sandy beachy or else oasy and muddy And whether there be beds or shelves of sand lying scattered in the said narrow sea I have learned of Sailers that there lieth but one banke and the same in the very mid-channell which at a low water is scarce 3. fathom deepe But within halfe a league to the South-ward it is 27. fathom deepe and to the North-ward 25. Lastly Whether any place in either of the two shores taketh name in the ancient language of a breach a plucking away division separation or such like as Rhegium which standeth upon the Sicilian Streight is named of the Greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is to breake because in that place by the violent force of waves Sicilie was broken off from Italie But thinking as I doe heereof I can meet with none unlesse one would suppose that Vitsan upon the French shore had the name from Gwith which in the British tongue betokeneth a division or separation They that would have Britaine to have been the very continent of Gaule after that universall deluge argue from the wolves whereof there were many among us in old time like as at this day in Scotland and Ireland How say they could there be any of them in Ilands considering that all beasts and living creatures perished which were not in the Arke unlesse a long time after the earth had beene passable throughout and no Isles at all This question busied Saint Augustine but unto it he answereth thus Wolves and other beasts may bee thought to have swome over the sea unto Ilands yet onely to neere adjoyning Ilands as stags yearely for their reliefe and food swim out of Italy into Cicily But some Isles there be so far remote from maine lands that it is to be thought no beast could swim over If it should bee said men caught them and so brought them over with them it carrieth some credit that this might well have beene for the delight they had in hunting Although it cannot bee denied but by the commandement or permission of God even by the worke of Angels they might have beene transported But if so be they sprung out of the earth according to their first originall when as God said Let the earth bring forth a living soule then it appeareth much more evidently that all kind of living creatures were in the Arke not so much for the encrease and reparation of them as to figure out sundry Nations for the sacrament of the church in case the earth brought forth many creatures in those Ilands whereto they can not passe Thus Philosophizeth he Neither is any man able upon this argument to pronounce any thing more sufficiently and exquisitely For me it may suffice that I have propounded thereof let the Reader throughly waigh and examine it And hee that is able in this point to see deepest what is most true verily I will report him a man right skilfull and deepely quick-sighted On the other side in the Firme-land inhabited the MORINI so called in the ancient Gaules tongue as it were Maritimi sive Maris accolae men dwelling upon the Sea-coast or hard by the sea Their countrey is now termed Conto de Guines and Conte de Bolonois and had in old time two places of very great name to wit GESSORIACVM and ITIVM whence as Caesar hath recorded there was the best and most commodious passing out of Gaule or France into Britain and most Authors thinke it was that towne which now they call Callais But that famous and learned man Hospitalius Chancellour of France a very skilfull Antiquary avoucheth that Callais is no ancient towne but was only a small village such as the French-men terme Burgados untill that Philip Earle of Bolen walled it about not very many yeares before the English won it Neither is it red in any place that men tooke shipping there for Britaine before those times I thinke therefore that Itium is to bee sought some where else that is to say below at Vitsan neere unto Blacknesse which we call Whitsan the word sounding not much unlike to Itium For that all men crossed over out of this Iland thither and embarqued there to saile hither wee observed out of our owne histories in so much
Castle adjoyning hard unto it now named Stutfall which in the side and descent of a pretty hill tooke up about tenne acres of ground in compasse and the reliques of the wall remaine still of British bricke and flint so close laid and couched together with a kind of strong mortar made of lime sand and pibles that as yet time hath not given it the check and now although it be not an haven towne yet it retaineth still no small shew of the ancient dignitie it had For heere the Warden of the Cinque Ports at a place called Shipway useth to take his solemne oath when hee first entreth into his office and heere upon certaine set daies the custome was to decide causes betweene the inhabitants of the said Ports Some have thought that in this place a great river discharged it selfe into the sea for that one or two writers have made mention of the river Leman and the mouth of Leman at which the Danes Fleet in the yeare of our salvation 892. arrived But I suppose they are deceived in the description of the place both because there is no river heere but a very small one which streight waies being of no reckoning at all vanisheth as also for that the Archdeacon of Huntingdon a compendious authour and of good approved credit writeth that the said fleet arrived at the Haven Leman and saith not a word of the river Vnlesse a man would thinke with whom I dare not accord that the river Rother which intermingleth it selfe with the Ocean under Rhieine ran downe this way and changed his course by little and little when that champian plaine called Rumney Marsh grew unto the firme land this Marsh-country which from Lime containeth 14. miles in length and 8. in bredth and reckoneth two townes nineteene parishes and 44200. acres or there about by reason of ranke greene grasse most convenient for the grasing and feeding of beasts hath beene by little and little laied unto the land by the benefit of the sea Whereupon I may well and truely terme it the Seas-gift like as Herodotus called Aegypt the gift of the river Nilus and a very learned man termed the pastures of Holland the gifts of the North-wind and the river Rhene For the sea to make amends yeilded that againe in this place which it swallowed up else where in this coast either by retyring backe or by laying oze thereto from time to time as some places which in the remembrance of our grandfathers lay close unto the sea shore are now dis-joyned a mile or two from the sea How fruitful the soile is what a number of heards of cattel it feedeth that are sent thither from the furthest parts of Wale and England to be fatted what art and cunning is used in making of bankes to fence it against the violent risings of the sea one would hardly believe that hath not seene it And that it might be the better ordered certaine lawes of Sewers were made in the time of King Henry the third And King Edward the fourth ordained that it should be a Corporation consisting of a Bailive Iurates and the Communalty In the Saxons time the inhabitants thereof were called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Marshmen and verily the signification of that name accordeth passing well with the nature of the place Neither can I understand and conceive that ancient writer Aethelward when he reporteth That Cinulph King of the Mercians wasted Kent and the country which is called Mersc-warum And in another place That Herbyth a Captaine was by the Danes beheaded in a place named Mersc-warum if he meant not this very marsh-Marsh-country Rumney or Romeney and in former time Romenal which some conjecture by the name to have beene the Romans worke is the principall towne of this Marsh and one of the Cinque-ports whereof Old Romeney and Lid are accounted members which joyntly were charged with the setting forth of five ships of warre in that manner and forme as I have before said It is seated upon an hill of gravell and sand and had on the West side an haven of good receit and commodious withall for most of the winds before the sea with-drew it selfe from it The inhabitants as we read in King William the Conquerours booke were in regard of their sea service quitte and quiet from all custome beside for robbery peace-breach and Foristell And in those daies it flourished with the best For it was divided into twelue wards it had also five Parish-churches it had a Priorie and an Hospitall for sicke persons But in the reigne of Edward the first when the sea raging with violence of windes overflowed this tract and made pittifull waste of people of cattell and of houses in every place as having quite drowned Promhil a prety town well frequented it made the Rother also forsake his old channel which heere before time emptied himselfe into the sea and stopped his mouth opening a new and neerer way for him to passe into the sea by Rhie So as by little and little hee forsoke this towne Which ever since hath decreased and lost much of the forme frequency and ancient dignity Beneath this the land tending more East-ward maketh a Promontory we call it the Nesse as it were a nose before which lieth a dangerous flat in the sea and upon which standeth Lid a towne well inhabited whereunto the inhabitants of Promhill after that inundation aforesaid betooke themselves And in the very utmost point of this Promontory which the people call Denge-nesse where there is nothing but beach and pible stones Holme-trees grow plentifully with their sharp prickey leaves alwaies greene in manner of underwood for a mile and more Among the said beach neere unto Ston end is to be seene an heape of greater stones which the neighbour Inhabitants call Saint Cryspins and Crispinians tombe whom they report to have beene cast upon this shore by ship-wracke and from hence called into the glorious companie of Saints From thence the shore retyring it selfe is directly carried into the West bringing foorth peason among the beach which grow up naturally like clusters of grapes a number together and in tast little differ from our field peason and so runneth on as farre as to the Rother-Mouth by which for some space Kent is divided from Sussex The course of this river on Sussex side wee have in part briefely spoken of before On Kent side it hath Newenden which I almost parswade my selfe was that haven so long sought for and which the booke Notitia Provinciarū called ANDERIDA the old Britains Caer Andred and the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 first because the Inhabitants by a continued tradition constantly affirme it was a most ancient towne and Haven whereof they shew the plot then for that it is situate by the wood Andredswald that tooke the name of it lastly because the English-Saxons seeme to have termed it Brittenden that is The
downe heere the maner of assaulting this Castle out of a writer who then lived and saw it to the end wee may understand with what devises and engines that age as wittie well neere as ours to worke men mischiefe used in their sieges of Townes On the East-side saith hee there was planted one Petrarie and two Mangonells which daily played upon the Towre and on the West-side two Mangonells which battered the old Towne also one Mangonell on the South part and another on the North which made two breaches and entries in the next walles Besides these there were two frames or engines of Timber made by Carpenters erected higher above the toppe of the Tower and Castle for Shootters in brakes and for discoverers There were moreover there many frames wherein shooters out of Brakes and slingers were set in await furthermore there was a frame or engine there called the Cat under which the Pioners and underminers had their ingresse and egresse whiles they digged under the Walles of Towre and Castle Now was this Castle taken by foure assaults In the first was the Barbican wonne in the second the out Ballie At the third fell the Wall downe neere the olde Towre by the meanes of the Miners where by the helpe of a chinke or breach with great daunger they became possessed of the inner Ballie At the fourth the Miners put fire under the Towre so that the smoke brake forth and the Towre was rent asunder in so much as the clifts and breaches appeared wide and then the enemies yeelded themselves Of these Mangonells Patraries Trabucks Bricols Espringolds and of that which our ancestors termed the Warwolse by which before that Gunnes were devised they discharged volies of mighty huge stones with great violence and so brake through strong walles much might heere be said were they not beside my purpose But my author proceedeth thus Falco remained Excommunicate untill he restored unto the King the Castle of Plumpton and Stoke-curcy with his plate of gold and silver both and such money as that he had and from thence was led to London Meane while the Sheriffe had commandement to demolish and rase the Towre and out Ballie As for the inward Ballie when the Bulwarks were cast downe and both Trench and Rampier laid levell with the ground it remained unto William Beauchamp for to dwell in The stones were graunted unto the Chanons of Newenham and Chaldwell and of Saint Pauls Church in Bedford Neither yet for all this is there any thing here more worth the seeing than the remaines of this Castle on the East side of the towne hanging over the river On both sides of Bedford stood two prety and very faire religious houses Helenstow now Eustow on the South part consecrated by Judith wife to Waltheof Earle of Huntingdon unto Helena Great Constantines Mother and to sacred Virgins on the East Newenham which Roise the wife of Paine de Beauchamp translated thither from Saint Paules within Bedford Ouse is not gone farre from hence but he seeth the tokens of a decayed Castle at Eaton which was another seate of the family de Beauchamp and bids Bedford-shire farewell hard by Bissemed where Hugh de Beauchamp and Roger his brother founded a little Monastery for the Chanons of Saint Austins order as appeareth by the Popes Bull. These stand on the farther side of Ouse which yet before from the South is augmented with a namelesse brooke at whose confluents is to be seene Temsford well knowne by reason of the Danes standing Campe and the Castle there which they then built when they wintering in Campe lay sore upon this Country and threw downe the Britans Fort as it is thought The place whereof now called Chesterfield and Sandie sheweth oftentimes peeces of Romane coyne as expresse tokens of the antiquity thereof Neither doe some doubt by the very situation but that this was that SALENAE which Ptolomee ascribeth to the Cattieuchlani if Salndy be the name as divers have avouched unto me Heere I overpasse Potton a little mercat towne because I finde nothing of it but that Iohn Kinaston gave it and the Lands adjoyning freely unto Thomas Earle of Lancaster Neither have I reason to make many words of such places as be situate upon this Brooke to wit Chicksand where Paine de Beauchamp built a little Monastery Shelford a mercat Wardon more inward where was a house of Cistertian monkes and was mother to the Abbaies of Saulterey Sibton and Tilthey Biglesward much spoken of and frequented for the horse Fayre there and the stone bridge From whence Stratton is not farre the mansion place in times past of the Barons Latimer afterward of the Enderbeies and from them hereditarily untill our time of the Pigotts Five miles from the head of this brooke in the very heart and middest well neere of the shire standeth Ampthill upon an hill a parcell of the Barony of Kainho heeretofore and lately a stately house resembling a castle and environed with Parks built by Sir Iohn Cornwale Baron Fanhop in the reigne of Henry the Sixth with the spoyles wonne from the French whose goods as I have read when Edward the Fourth had confiscated for taking part with the Familie of Lancaster and indited him or this house rather as Fanhop himselfe saith of high treason forthwith it was granted unto Edmund Grey Lord of Ruthin and afterwards Earle of Kent whose grandchild Richard passed both it and Ruthin over to King Henry the Seventh and he annexed the same unto the Kings Sacred Patrimony as the Civilians terme it or as our Lawyers use to say unto the Crowne and shortly after with the Lands appertaining it was made the Honour of Ampthil From hence more Northward lieth Haughton Conquest so called of a worshipfull and ancient family which a long time dwelt therein Westward is Woburn where now is a free schoole founded by Francis Earle of Bedford and where sometime flourished a notable monastery built by Henry de Bolebic for Cistercians who himselfe entred into this order Under which at Aspley Gowiz there is a kinde of earth men say that turneth wood into stones and for proofe and testimony thereof I have heard say there was a wooden ladder to be seene in that monastery that having lien a good while covered all over in that earth was digged forth againe all stone More into the East Tuddington sheweth a faire house goodly to be seene which Sir Henry Cheiney made by Queene Elizabeth Baron Cheyney of Tuddington built and shortly after died Sans-issue where also in old time Paulin Pever a Courtier and Sewer to King Henry the Third as Matthew Paris witnesseth built a strong house with the hall chappell chambers and other houses of stone and the same covered with lead with Orchards also and Parkes to it in such sort as it caused the beholders to wonder thereat We were not gone forward farre from hence but we came to Hockley
and the chiefe Magistrate was termed a Consul which name may intimate that it was a Roman towne But when Bishop Herbert surnamed Losenga for that he was composed of Leafing and Flattery the third Prelate that by evill meanes and Simony climbed up to this Dignity had removed his seat from hence to Norwich it fell againe to decay and as it were languished Neither could it sufficiently bee comforted for the absence of the Bishop by the Abbay of Cluniac Monkes which by his meanes was built This Abbay Hugh Bigod built out of the ground For so writeth he in the Instrument of the foundation I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry by his graunt and by the advise of Herbert Bishop of Norwich have ordained Monkes of the Order of Cluny in the Church of S. Mary which was the Episcopall seat of Thetford which I gave unto them and afterwards founded another more meete for their use without the Towne Howbeit even then the greatest part of the Citty that stood on the hithermore Banke by little and little fell to the ground the other part although it was much decayed yet one or two Ages agoe flourished with seaven Churches besides three small religious Houses whereof the one was by report erected in the memoriall of the Englishmen and Danes slaine here For hard by as our Historians doe record Edmund that most holy King a litle before his death fought Seaven houres and more with the Danes not without an horrible slaughter and afterwards gave over the battaile on even hand such was the alternative fortune of the Field that it drave both sides past their senses By Waveney the other River of those twaine that bound this Shire and runneth Eastward not farre from the Spring head thereof are seene Buckenham and Keninghall This which may seeme to have the name left unto it of the Iceni is the Seat of that most honourable Family of the Howards whose glory is so great that the envy of Bucchanan cannot empaire it As for the other so named as I take it of Beech trees which the Saxons called Bucken it is a faire and strong Castle built by William de Aubigny the Norman unto whom the Conqueror had given the place and by his heires that were successively Earles of Arundell it descended to the Tatsalls and from them by Caly and the Cliftons unto the family of the Knevets These are of an ancient house and renowned ever since Sir Iohn Knevet was Lord Chancellour of England under King Edward the Third and also honourably allied by great marriages For over and beside these of Buckenham from hence sprang those right worshipfull knights Sir Thomas Knevet Lord Knevet Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire and Sir Thomas Knevet of Ashellwell Thorpe and others This Ashellwell Thorpe is a little Towne nere adjoyning which from the Thorpes in times past of Knights degree by the Tilneis and the L. L. Bourchiers of Berners is devolved at length hereditarily unto that Sir Thomas Knevet before named As for that Buckenham aforesaid it is holden by this tenure and condition that the Lords thereof should at the Coronation of the Kings of England be the Kings Butlers that day Like as a thing that may beseeme the noting in Charleton a little neighbour village Raulph de Carleton and some one other held lands by this service namely To present an hundred Herring-Pies or Pasties when Herrings first come in unto their Soveraigne Lord the King wheresoever he be in England But this river neare to his spring runneth by and by under Disce now Dis a prety towne well knowne which King Henry the First gave frankely to Sir Richard Lucy and hee straightwayes passed it over to Walter Fitz-Robert with his Daughter of whose Posterity Robert Fitz-Walter obtained for this place the liberty of keeping Mercat at the hands of King Edward the First From thence although Waveney bee on each side beset with Townes yet there is not one amongst them that may boast of any Antiquity unlesse it bee Harleston a good Mercate and Shelton that standeth farther of both which have given surnames to the ancient Families of the Sheltons and Harlestons but before it commeth to the Sea it coupleth it selfe with the river Yare which the Britans called Guerne the Englishmen Gerne and Iere of Alder trees no doubt so termed in British wherewith it is overshadowed It ariseth out of the mids of this Countrie not farre from Gernston a little Towne that tooke name thereof and hath hard by it Hengham which had Lords descended from Iohn Marescall Nephew by the brother to William Marescall Earle of Penbroch upon whom King John bestowed it with the Lands of Hugh de Gornay a Traitour and also with the daughter and coheire of Hubert de Rhia From this Marescals it passed in revolution of time unto the Lord Morleis and from them by Lovell unto the Parkers now Lords Morley A little from hence is Sculton otherwise called Burdos or Burdelois which was held by this Tenure That the Lord thereof on the Coronation day of the Kings of England should be chiefe Lardiner Joint-neighbour to Sculton is Wood-Rising the faire seate of the Family of Southwels which received the greatest reputation and encrease from Sir Richard Southwell Privie Councellour to King Edward the Sixth and his Brother Sir Robert Master of the Rowles More Eastward is to be seene Wimundham now short Windham famous for the Albineys Earles of Arundell there enterred whose Ancestor and Progenitor William D' Albiney Butler to King Henry the First founded the Priory and gave it to the Abbay of Saint Albans for a Cell which afterward was advanced to an Abbay Upon the Steeple whereof which is of a great height William Ke◠one of the Captaines of the Norfolke Rebels in the yeare of our Lord 1549. was hanged on high Neither would it bee passed over in silence that five miles from hence standeth Attilborrough the seate of the Mortimers an ancient Family who being different from those of Wigmor bare for their Armes A Shield Or Semè de floures de Lyz Sables and founded heere a Collegiat Church where there is little now to bee seene The Inheritance of these Mortimers hath by marriage long since accrued to the Ratcliffs now Earles of Sussex to the Family of Fitz-Ralph and to Sir Ralph Bigot But returne we now to the River The said Yare holdeth not his course farre into the East before he taketh Wentsum a Riveret others call it Wentfar from the South into his streame upon which neere unto the head thereof there is a foure square Rampier at Taiesborrough containing foure and twenty Acres It may seeme to have beene a Campe place of the Romans if it be not that which in an old Chorographicall Table or Map published by Marcus Welserus is called AD TAUM Somewhat higher upon the same River stood VENTA ICENORUM the most flourishing City for a little one in times past of all this
as many Monasteries and filled them with religious Brethren Neverthelesse this vaine prodigality and lavish spending that was in a military Bishop was pursued afterwards with condigne punishment For King Stephen who laboured nothing more than to establish his tottering estate in his Kingdome by seizing into his hands all the strongest holds thereof brought this Prelate what with hard imprisoning and in a sort with famishing him to that passe that will'd hee nill'd he at length hee yeelded up unto him both this Castle and that other at Sleford in Lincolne-shire Neither is there any other memorable matter heere to be related but that King John finished in this place the most wearisome course of his troublesome life and King Edward the Sixth incorporated it of one Alderman and twelve Assistants From hence the River gathering himselfe againe into one Chanell runneth directly Northward beset on both sides with Villages neither affoordeth it any matter worth remembrance before it come to Littleborrough a little Towne in deed and truely answering to the name where as there is at this day a Ferry much used so there was in times past that Station whereof Antonine the Emperour once or twice made mention and which according to sundry Copies is called AGELOCUM or SEGELOCUM This Towne have I heretofore sought for in vaine about the Country adjoyning but now I am verily perswaded and assured that I have found it out both for that it standeth upon the old Port High-way and also because the field lying to it sheweth expresse tokens of Walles and besides affoordeth unto Ploughmen every day many peeces of the Roman Emperours Coine which because Swine many times rooting into the ground turne up with their snouts the country people call Swinespeniâ—s Who also according to their simple capacity are of opinion that their forefathers in times past fensed and mounded that field with a stone Wall against the water of Trent that useth in Winter time to overflow and make great flouds In the West part of this Shire which they tearme The Sand and where Erwash a little Riveret hieth apace into Trent Strelley in old time Strellegh sheweth it selfe a place that gave both sirname and habitation to the Family of the Strelleis commonly called Sturleyes Knights one of the most ancient Houses in all this Country More inward the Forest Shirewood which some expound by these Latine names Limpida Sylva that is A Shire or Cleere wood others Praclara Sylva in the same sence and signification in ancient times over-shadowed all the Country over with greene leaved branches and the boughs and armes of trees twisted one within another so implicated the Woods together that a man could scarcely goe alone in the beaten pathes But now the trees grow not so thicke yet hath it an infinite number of fallow Deere yea and Stagges with their stately branching heads feeding within it Some Townes also among which Mansfield carryeth away the name as maintaining a great Mercat passing well served and as well frequented The name of which Towne they that delineat the Pedegree of the Graves of the great family of Mansfield in Germany use as an argument to proove the same and set downe that the first Earle of Mansfield was one of King Arthurs Knights of the Round Table borne and bred at this Mansfield Indeed our Kings used in old time to retyre themselves hether for the love of hunting and that you may reade the very words out of an ancient Inquisition W. Fauconberge tenebat Manerium de Cukeney in hoc Comitatu in Sergientia per Servitium ferrandi Palsredum Regis quando Rex veniret ad Mansfield that is W. Fauconberge held the Manour of Cukeney in this County in Sergiency by service to shooe the Kings Palfrey when the King came to Mansfield And the hereditary Foresters or Keepers of this Forest of Shirewood were men in their times of high estimation viz. Sir Gerarde de Normanvile in the time of the Conquest the Cauzes and Birkins by whose heire it came to the Everinghams Of which Family Sir Adam Everingham was summoned to Parliaments in the Raignes of King Edward the Second and King Edward the Third At which time they were seated at Laxton anciently called Lexinton where also flourished a great Family so sirnamed whose heires were marryed into the Houses of Sutton of Averham and Markham Out of this Wood there spring many Riverets that runne into the Trent but Idle is thought to bee the chiefe upon which neere unto Idleton in the yeere 616. that felicity and prosperous successe which for a long time had accompanied Ethered that most puissant King of Northumberland was overtaken and forsooke him quite For whereas before time he had alwaies fought his battailes most fortunately heere fortune turning her wheele he was by Redwald King of the East Angles vanquished and slaine who in his roome made Edwin then banished from the Kingdome due unto him from his Ancesters Soveraigne Ruler over the Northumbers This little River Idle runneth downe not farre from Markham a Village verily but small to speake of yet gave it name to the Family of the Markhams which for worth and antiquity hath beene very notable being descended from one of the heires of Cressy and formerly from an heire of Lexinton as I lately shewed The greatest ornament of this Family was Sir John Markham who sitting Lord chiefe Justice of England guided the helme of Justice with so even an hand and so great equity a thing that I would have you to reade in the English Histories that his honour and glory shall never perish Six miles from it Westward is Workensop a Towne well knowne for the Liquorice that there groweth and prospereth passing well famous also for the Earle of Shrewsburies House which within our remembrance George Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury built with that magnificence as beseemeth so great an Earle and yet such as was not to be envied This Workensop from the Lovetofts first Lords thereof under the Normans Raigne descended by the Furnivalles and Nevil unto the L. Talbots with a very goodly inheritance Of which Lovetofts G. Lovetoft in the time of King Henry the First founded here an Abbay the ruines whereof I have seen toward the East side of the Towne amidst most pleasant and plentifull pastures and the West part of the Church standeth still passing faire to be seene with two towre steeples A little higher upon the same River I saw Blithe a famous Mercate Towne which Bulley or Busly a Noble man of the Normans blood fortified with a Castle but now the very rubbish thereof is hardly to bee seene time so consumeth all things But the Abbay there was founded by Roger Busly and Foulke De Lisieurs and this is the farthest Towne almost in Nottingham-shire Northward unlesse it bee Scroby a little Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke situate in the very confines and frontiers of York-shire William sirnamed
Iustice of the Common Pleas and a very great lover of learning But he hath now taken his quiet sleepe in Christ and left his sonne Sir Roger Owen for his manifold learning a right worthy sonne of so good a father This is holden of the King as we reade in the Records In chiefe to finde two footmen one day in the army of Wales in time of warre Which I note heere once for all to this end that I may give to understand that Gentlemen and Noblemen heereabout held their inheritances of the Kings of England by this tenure to be ready in service with Souldiers for defence of the Marches whensoever there should be any warre betweene England and Wales Neere unto this there is a little Village named Pichford that imparted the name in times past to the ancient Family of Pichford now the Possession of R. Oteley which our Ancestours for that they knew not pitch from Bitumen so called of a fountaine of Bitumen there in a private mans yard upon which there riseth and swimmeth a kinde of liquid Bitumen daily skumme it off never so diligently even as it doth in the Lake Asphaltites in Iewry in a standing water about Samosata and in a spring by Agrigentum in Sicilie But whether this bee good against the falling sicknesse and have a powerfull property to draw to close up wounds c. as that in Iewry none that I know as yet have made experiment More Westward you may see Pouderbach Castle now decayed and ruinous called in times past Pulrebach the seat of Sir Raulph Butler a younger sonne of Raulph Butler Lord Wem from whom the Butlers of Woodhall in Hertford-shire are lineally descended Beneath this Huckstow Forest spreadeth a great way among the mountaines where at Stipperstons bill there be great heapes of stones and little rockes as it were that rise thicke together the Britans call them Carneddau tewion But whereas as these seeme naturall I dare not with others so much as conjecture that these were any of those stones which Giraldus Cambrensis seemeth to note in these words Harald in person being himselfe the last footeman in marching with footemen and light Armours and victuals answerable for service in Wales valiantly went round about and passed through all Wales so as that he left but few or none alive And for a perpetuall memory of this Victory you may finde very many stones in Wales erected after the antique manner upon hillockes in those places wherein hee had beene Conquerour having these words engraven HIC FVIT VICTOR HARALDVS Heere was Harald Conquerour More Northward Caurse Castle standeth which was the Barony of Sir Peter Corbet from whom it came to the Barons of Stafford and Routon Castle neere unto it the most ancient of all the rest toward the West borders of the Shire not farre from Severn which Castle sometimes belonged to the Corbets and now to the ancient Family of the Listers Before time it was the possession of Iohn le Strange of Knocking in despite of whom Lhewellin Prince of Wales laid it even with the ground as we read in the life of Sir Foulque Fitz-Warin It flourished also in the Romans time under the same name tearmed by Antonine the Emperour RUTUNIUM Neither can wee mistake herein seeing both the name and that distance from URICONIUM a towne full well knowne which he putteth downe doe most exactly agree Neere unto this are Abberbury Castle and Watlesbury which is come from the Corbets to the notable family of the Leightons Knights As for the name it seemeth to have taken it from that High Port-way called Watling street which went this way into the farthest part of Wales as Ranulph of Chester writeth by two little Townes of that street called Strettons betweene which in a valley are yet to be seene the rubbish of an old Castle called Brocards Castle and the same set amiddest greene medowes that before time were fish-pooles But these Castles with others which I am scarce able to number and reckon up for the most part of them are now ruinate not by the fury of warre but now at length conquered even with secure peace and processe of time Now crossing over Severne unto that part of the shire on this side the River which I said did properly belong to the ancient CORNAVII This againe is divided after a sort into two parts by the river Terne running from the North Southward so called for that it issueth out of a very large Poole in Stafford-shire such as they of the North parts call Tearnes In the hither part of these twaine which lyeth East neere to the place where Terne dischargeth his waters into Severn stood the ancient URICONIUM for so Antonine the Emperor termeth it which Ptolomee calleth VIROCONIUM Ninnius Caer Vruach the old English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee Wreckceter and Wroxcester This was the chiefe City of the CORNAVII built as it seemeth by the Romans what time as they fortified this banke of Severn in this place where the river is full of fourds as it is not elsewhere lower toward the mouth thereof But this being sore shaken in the Saxons warre fell to utter decay in the Danish broiles and now it is a very small country Towne of poore Husbandmen and presenteth often times to those that aire the ground Roman Coines to testifie in some sort the antiquity thereof Besides them I saw nothing of antiquity but in one place some few parcels of broken walles which the common people call The old worke of Wroxceter This Wall was built of rough stone distinguished outwardly with seven rowes of British brickes in equall distance and brought up with arched worke inwardly I conjecture by the uneven ground by the Rampires and the rubbish of the wall heere and there on either side that the Castle stood in that very place where these ruines remaine But where the plot of the City lay and that was of a great compasse the Soile is more blackish than elsewhere and plentifully yeeldeth the best barley in all this quarter Beneath this City that Port-way of those Romans knowne by the name of Watling street went as I have heard say directly albeit the ridge thereof now appeareth not either through a fourd or over a Bridge the foundations whereof were of late a little higher discovered when they did set a Weare in the River unto the Strattons that is to say Townes upon the Streete whereof I spake even now The ancient name of this decaied URICONIUM sheweth it selfe very apparently in an hill loftily mounting neere thereunto called Wreken hill some Writers terme it Gilberts hill from the top whereof which lyeth in a plaine pleasant levell there is a very delightfull prospect into the Country beneath on every side This Hill runneth out in length a good space as it were attired on the sides with faire spread trees But under it where Severn rolleth downe
in old time called Guarthenion as Ninnius restifieth who wrote that the said wicked Vortigern when he was plainely and sharply reprooved by that godly Saint German did not onely not turne from his lewd and licentious life to the worship and service of God but also let flie slanderous speeches against that most holy man Wherefore Vortimer the sonne of Vortigern as Ninnius saith for the slander which his Father had raised of Saint German decreed that he should have the land as his owne for ever wherein he had suffered so reprochfull an abuse whereupon and to the ened that Saint German might be had in memory it was called Guarthenion which signifieth in English A slander justly retorted The Mortimers descended from the Niece of Gonora Wife of Richard the First Duke of Normandie were the first Normans that having discomfited the English Saxon Edricke Sylvaticus that is The wild wonne a great part of this little Country to themselves And after they had a long time been eminent above all others in these parts at length King Edward the Third about the yeere of Salvation 1328. Created Roger Mortimer Lord of Wigmore Earle of this Welsh limit or according to the common speech Earle of March who soone after was sentenced to death because he had insulted upon the Common-wealth favoured the Scots to the prejudice of England conversed over familiarly with the â—ings mother and contrived the destruction and death of King Edward the Second the Kings Father He by his Wife Joan Jenevell who brought him rich revenewes as well in Ireland as in England had Edmund his Sonne who felt the smart of his Fathers wickednesse and lost both patrimonie and title of Earle Howbeit his Sonne Roger was fully restored recovered the title of Earle of March and was chosen a fellow of the order of the Garter at the first institution thereof This Roger begat of Philip Montacute Edmund Earle of March and he tooke to Wife Philip the only daughter of Leonell Duke of Clarence the third sonne of King Edward the Third whereby came unto him the Earldome of Vlster in Ireland and the Lordship of Clare After he had ended his life in Ireland where he governed with great commendation his sonne Roger succeeded being both Earle of March and Vlster whom King Richard the Second declared heire apparent and his successour to the Crowne as being in right of his Mother the next and undoubted heire But he dying before king Richard left issue Edmund and Anne Edmund in regard of his Royall bloud and right to the Crowne stood greatly suspected to Henrie the Fourth who had usurped the kingdome and by him was first exposed unto dangers in so much as he was taken by Owen Glendour a Rebell and afterward whereas the Percies purposed to advance his right he was conveyed into Ireland kept almost twenty yeeres prisoner in the Castle of Trim suffering all miseries incident to Princes of the bloud while they lie open to every suspition and there through extreame griefe ended his daies leaving his sister Anne his heire She was married to Richard Earle of Cambridge in whose right his heires and posterity were Earles of March and made claime to the kingdome which in the end also they obtained as wee will shew in another place In which respect King Edward the Fourth created his eldest Sonne being Prince of Wales Duke of Cornwall c. Earle of March also for a further augmentation of his Honour As for the title of Rad-nor no man ever bare it to my knowledge In this are Parishes 52. BRECKNOC Comitaus pars Osim SILVRVM BRECHNOCK-SHIRE BEneath Radnor-shire Southward lyeth BRECHNOCK-SHIRE in the British Brechineau so named as the Welshmen relate of a Prince named Brechanius whom they report to have had a great and an holy Offspring to wit twenty foure Daughters all Saints Farre greater this is than Radnor-shire but thicker set with high Hilles yet are the valleies fruitfull every where On the East side it is bounded with Hereford-shire On the South with Monmoâ—th and Glamorgan-shires ond on the West with Caermarden-shire But seeing there is nothing memorable or materiall to the description of this small Province which is not set downe by the curious diligence of Giraldus Cambrensis who was an Archdeacon heereof above foure hundred yeeres since I thinke I may doe well for my selfe to hold my peace a while and to admit him with his stile into the fellowship of this labour Brecknocke saith hee in his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae is a Country having sufficient store of Corne and if there bee any defect thereof it is plentifully supplied out of the fruitefulnesse of England bordering so neere upon it a Country likewise well stored with pastures and Woods with wilde Déere and heards of Cattaile having abundance beside of fresh water fish wherewith Vske on the one side and Wy on the other serveth it For both these Rivers are full of Salmons and Trouts but Wy of the twaine is the better affording the best kinde of them which they call Vmbras Enclosed it is on every side with high hilles unlesse it be on the North part In the West it hath the mountaines of Canterbochan On the South-side likewise the Southern mountaines the chiefe whereof is called Cadier Arthur that is Arthurs chaire of the two toppes of the same for it is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is shaped with two capes resembling the forme of a Chaire And for that the Chaire standeth very high and upon a steepe downefall by a common tearme it was assigned to Arthur the greatest and mightiest King of the Britans In the very pitch and top of this hill there walmeth forth a spring of water And this fountaine in manner of a Well is deepe but foure square having no brooke or Riveret issuing from it yet are there Trouts found therein And therefore having these barres on the South side the aire is the colder defendeth the Country from the excessive heat of the Sunne and by a certaine naturall wholsomnesse of the aire maketh it most temperate But on the East side the mountaines of Talgar and Ewias doe as it were foresense it On the North side as he said it is more open and plaine namely where the River Wy severeth it from Radnor-shire by which stand two Townes well knowne for their antiquity Buelth and Hay Buelth is pleasantly situate with Woods about it fortified also with a Castle but of a later building by the Breoses and Mortimers when as Rhese ap Gruffin had rased the ancient Castle Now the Mercate much resorted unto maketh it more famous thereabout but in times past it seemeth to have beene for the owne worth of great name because Ptolomee observed the position therof according to the Longitude and Latitude who called it BULLEUM Silurum Of this towne the country lying round about it being rough and full of hils is named Buelth wherein when as the Saxons were
certaine dye after it CAERMARDIÌ„ Comitatus in quo DIMETAE Olim habitarunt Those latter words I reade thus Aeternali in domo that is In an eternall house For Sepulchres in that age were tearmed AETERNALES DOMUS that is Eternall habitations Moreover betweene Margan and Kingseage by the high way side there lyeth a stone foure foote long with this Inscription PUNP â—IUS CAR ANTOPIUS Which the Welsh Britans by adding and changing letters thus reade and make this interpretation as the right reverend Bishop of Landaff did write to mee who gave order that the draught of this Inscription should be taken likewise for my sake PIM BIS AN CAR ANTOPIUS that is The five fingers of freinds or neighbours killed us It is verily thought to bee the Sepulchre of Prince Morgan from whom the Country tooke name who was slaine as they would have it eight hundred yeeres before Christs Nativity But Antiquaries know full well that these Characters and formes of letters be of a farre later date After you are past Margan the shore shooteth forth into the North-East by Aber-Avon a small Mercate Towne upon the River Avons mouth whereof it tooke the name to the River Nid or Neath infamous for a quick-sand upon which stands an ancient Towne of the same name which Antonine the Emperour in his Itinerary called NIDUM Which when Fitz-Haimon made himselfe Lord of this Country fell in the partition to Richard Granvills share who having founded an Abbay under the very Townes side and consecrated his owne portion to God and to the Monkes returned againe to his owne ancient and faire inheritance which he had in England Beyond this River Neath whatsoever lieth betweene it and the River Loghor which boundeth this shire in the West wee call Gower the Britans and Ninnius Guhir wherein as he saith the sonnes of Keian the Scot planted themselves and tooke up a large roome untill that by Cuneda a British Lord they were driven out In the Raigne of Henry the First Henry Earle of Warwicke wonne it from the Welsh but by a conveyance and composition passed betweene William Earle of Warwicke and King Henry the Second it came to the Crowne Afterward King Iohn gave it unto William Breos who had taken Arthur Earle of Britaine prisoner to bee held by service of one Knight for all service and his heires successively held it not without troubles unto King Edward the Seconds daies for then William Breos when he had alienated and sold this inheritance to many and in the end by mocking and disappointing all others set Hugh Spenser in possession thereof to curry favour with the King And this was one cause among other things that the Nobles hated the Spensers so deadly and rashly shooke off their Allegeance to the King Howbeit this Gower came to the Mowbraies by an heire of Breos This is now divided into the East part and the West In the East part Swinesey is of great account a Towne so called by the Englishmen of Sea-Swine but the Britans Aber-Taw of the River Taw running by it which the foresaid Henry Earle of Warwicke fortified But there is a Towne farre more ancient than this by the River Loghor which Antonine the Emperour called LEUCARUM and wee by the whole name Loghor Where a little after the death of King Henry the First Howel Ap Meredic invading the Englishmen on a sudden with a power of the mountainers slew divers men of quality and good account Beneath this lyeth West-Gower and by reason of two armes of the Sea winding in on either side one it becommeth a Biland more memorable for the fruitfulnesse than the Townes in it and in times past of great name in regard of Kined canonized a Saint who lived heere a solitary life of whom if you desire to know more reade our Countryman Capgrave who hath set out his miracle with great commendation Since this Country was first conquered by the English The Lords thereof were those that lineally descended from Fitz-Haimon as Earle of Glocester Clares Spensers Beauchamps and one or two Nevils and by a daughter of Nevill who came likewise of the Spensers bloud Richard the Third King of England But when he was slaine king Henry the Seventh entred upon the inheritance of this Country and gave it to his unkle Iaspar Duke of Bedford and when hee dyed without issue the king resumed it unto his owne hands and left it to his sonne king Henry the Eighth whose sonne king Edward the Sixth sold the greatest part thereof to Sir William Herbert whom hee had created Earle of Pembrock and Baron of Cardiff But of the race of those twelve knights there remaine onely in this shire the Stradlings a notable house and of long continuance the Turbervills and some of the Flemings the greatest man of which house dwelleth at Flemingston now corruptly called Flemston as one would say Flemingstone which tooke the name of them And in England there are remaining yet the Lord Saint Iohn of Bletso the Granvills in Devonshire and the Siwards as I am enformed in Somerset-shire The issue male of all the rest is long since extinct and worne out and their lands by daughters passed over to divers houses with sundry alterations Parishes 118. DIMETAE PLinie was of opinion that the SILURES inhabited also the other part beside of this Country which bearing out farther Westward is called in English by some West-Wales and containeth Caermarden-shire Pembrock-shire and Cardigan-shire But Ptolomee who knew Britaine farre better placed heere another people whom he called DIMETAE and DEMETAE Gildas likewise and Ninnius both have used the name of DEMETIA for this Tract Whereupon the Britans that inhabite it changing M. into F. according to the propriety of their tongue commonly call it at this day Difed If it would not be thought strained curiosity I would derive this denomination of the Demetae from Deheu Meath that is A plaine champion toward the South like as the Britans themselves have named all this South-Wales Deheubarth that is The South part yea and those verily who inhabited another champion Country in Britaine were called in old time Meatae Neither I assure you is the site of this Region disagreeing from this signification For when you are come hither once by reason that the high hils gently settle downeward and grow still lower and lower it spreadeth by little and little into a plaine and even champion Country CAERMARDEN-SHIRE CAERMARDEN-SHIRE is plenteous enough in Corne stored abundantly with Cartaile and in some places yeeldeth pit cole for fewell On the East side it is limited with Glamorgan and Brechnock-shires on the West with Pembrock-shire on the North with Cardigan-shire severed from it by the River Tivie running betweene and on the South with the Ocean which with so great a Bay or Creeke getteth within the Land that this Countrey seemeth as it were for very feare to have shrunke backe and
heads are sound and of a firme constitution their eye-sight continuing and never dimme and their age long lasting and very cheerefull The Vale it selfe with his greene meddowes yellow Corne-fields Villages and faire houses standing thicke and many beautifull Churches giveth wonderfull great contentment to such as behold it from above The river Cluid encreased with beckes and brookes resorting unto it from the hils on each side doth from the very spring-head part it in twaine running through the midst of it whence in ancient time it was named Strat Cluid For Marianus maketh mention of a King of the Strat-Clud of the Welsh and at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluid that is The Vale of Cluid wherein as some have recorded certaine Britans which came out of Scotland after they had driven forth the English erected a petty Kingdome On the East banke of Cluid in the South part of the vale standeth Ruthin in Latin writers Ruthunia in British Ruthun the greatest mercat towne in all the Vale full of Inhabitants and well replenished with buildings famous also not long since by reason of a large and very faire Castle able to receive and entertaine a great houshold Which with the Towne Reginald Grey to whom King Edward the First granted it and Roger Grey built having obtained licence of the King the Bishop of Saint Asaph and the Parson of the Church of Lhan-Ruth in whose Parish the place is sited Unto him in recompense for his part of the good service performed against the Welsh King Edward the First had given in manner the whole Vale and it was the seat of his heires men of great honour and at length stiled with the Title of Earle of Kent untill that Richard Grey Earle of Kent and Lord of Ruthin having no issue nor care of his brother Henry passed away for a summe of money this his ancient inheritance unto King Henry the Seventh But of late daies the bounteous magnificence of Queene Elizabeth bestowed it upon Ambrose Dudley Earle of Warwicke together with rich revenewes in the Vale. When you ascend out of the vale Eastward you come to Yale a little hilly country and in comparison of the Regions beneath and round about it passing high so that no river from elsewhere commeth into it and it sendeth forth some from it By reason of this high situation it is bleake as exposed to the windes on all sides Whether it tooke that name of the riveret Alen which rising first in it undermineth the ground and once or twice hideth himselfe I know not The Mountaines are full of Neat sheepe and Goates the vallies in some plenteous enough of Corne especially East on this side of Alen. But the more Westerly part is not so fruitfull and in some places is a very heath and altogether barraine Neither hath it any thing memorable save onely a little Abbay now wholly decaied but standing most richly and pleasantly in a Vale which among the woody hilles cutteth it selfe overthwart in manner of a crosse whereupon it was called in Latine Vallis Crucis that is The Vale of the Crosse and in British Lhane-Gwest From hence more Eastward the Territory called in Welsh Mailor Gymraig that is Welsh Mailor in English Bromfield reacheth as farre as to the river Dee A small Territory but very rich and pleasant plentifull withall of Lead especially neere unto Moinglath a little Towne which tooke the name of Mines Heere is Wrexham to be seene in the Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 much spoken of for a passing faire towre Steeple that the Church hath and the musicall Organs that bee therein And neere unto it is Leonis Castrum happily so called of the twenty Legion denominated Victrix which a little higher on the other banke of Dee lay garrisoned now it goeth commonly under the name of Holt and is thought to have beene re-edified of late by Sir William Stanley and long since by John Earle of Warren who being a Guardian of trust unto Madock a Welsh Lord conveighed falsly from his Ward this Lordship together with Yale unto himselfe But from the Earles of Warren it came unto the Fitz-Alans Earles of Arundell and from them to Sir William Beauchamp Baron of Abergevenney and afterward to Sir William Stanley Chamberlaine to King Henry the Seventh who contesting with his Soveraigne about his good services when hee was honourably recompensed lost his head forgetting that Soveraignes must not bee beholding to Subjects howsoever Subjects fancy their owne good services Beneath Bromfield Southward lyeth Chirke in Welsh Gwain being also very hilly but well knowne in elder ages for two Castles Chirke which gave it the name built by Roger Mortimer and Castle Dinas Bran situate in the hanging of a mighty high hill pointed in the top where of note there remaineth nothing but the very ruines The common sort affirme that Brennius the Generall of the Galles both built and so named it others interpret the name to this sense The Castle of the Kings Palace For Bren in British signifieth a King whence perhaps that most puissant King of Gaules and Britans both was by way of excellency called Brennus But others againe draw this name from the high situation upon an hill which the Britans tearme Bren and in mine opinion this their conjecture carryeth with it more probability In the time of King Henry the Third it was the mansion place of Gruffith Ap Madoc who when he tooke part with the English against the Welsh was wont heere to make his abode but after his death Roger Mortimer who had the charge and tuition of his sonne Lhewellin like as Iohn Earle of Warren of whom I spake seized Bromfield so hee seized also this Chirck into his possession When the State of the Welsh by reason of their owne civill dissensions and the invasions of English now ready to ruine could not well subsist the Earles of Chester and of Warren the Mortimers Lacy and the Greies that I spake of first of all the Normans brought this little Country of Denbigh by little and little into their owne hands and left possession thereof to their heires Neither was it made a Shire before King Henry the Eighth his daies at which time Radnor Brechnock and Montgomery by authority of the Parliament were ordained to be Shires In this Shire there be Parishes 57 FLINT Comitatus quem ORDOVICES Olim Incosuerunt FLINT-SHIRE RIGHT over against Denbigh-shire North-East-ward lyeth FLINT-SHIRE a small Territory more in length than in breadth hemmed in on the North side with the Irish Sea or rather with an Arme of the same on the East with Cheshire on other parts with Denbigh-shire It is no mountaine Country to speake of yet rising somewhat with the bearing up of Hilles and gently falleth and sloopeth it selfe downe with fruitfull fields which towards Dee an Arme of the Sea especially every first Yeere that they bee new broken uppe and sowne beare in
will in short space be covered over with a stony barke and turne into stone as it hath beene often observed In the Territory there by Liquirice groweth in great abundance and a yellower and softer kinde of marle is there found passing good to make the ground fertile The Keeper or chiefe Ranger of the Forest adjoyning was in times past one Gamell whose posterity of their habitation at Screven assumed the name of Screven and from them descended the Slingsbey who received this Forestership of king Edward the First and to this day live here in great and good regard Nid having passed by these places not farre from Allerton the seat of a very ancient and famous family of the Malliveries who in old Deeds and Records are called Mali Leporarij goeth on a little way and then meeting Ouse augmenteth the streame of Ouse by his confluence As for Vre he also springing out of these Westerne hilles but on the other side of the Country in North-Ricding when by this name he hath watered the North part of the Shire a little before he commeth to Rippon serveth for the limite dividing the North and West Ridings one from another This Rippon in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 being placed betweene Vre and Skell a rill is beholden to religious Houses for all the dignity it had and especially to a Monastery built in the primitive Church of the English-Saxons by Wilfride Archbishop of Yorke and that with such arched and embowed Vaults with such floorings and stories of stone-worke with such turnings and windings in and out of Galleries so saith William of Malmesbury that it was wonderfull Which the Danes afterward being so violent and outrageous that they spared neither God nor man raced together with the Towne Yet flourished it againe repaired by meanes of Odo Archbishop of Canterbury who being a very great master of ceremoniall mysteries translated from hence to Canterbury the Reliques of Wilfride But since the Normans arrivall it prospered most when the Castles as one saith of Monkes beganne to bee built in greater number For then both the Towne grew famous partly under the chiefe Magistrate whom they call by an old Saxon word Wakeman as one would say Watchman and partly by their industry in clothing which at this day is much diminished and the Monastery likewise under the tuition and protection of the Archbishops of Yorke beganne marveilously to reflourish Besides a very faire Church was there also built at the charitable charges of the Noblemen and Gentry dwelling thereabout and of their owne Treasurer which with three high Spire-steeples doth welcome those that come to the towne and did as it were emulate in workemanship the wealthy Abbay of Fountaines built within the sight of it by Thurstin Archbishop of Yorke On the one side of this Church wee saw a little College of â—inging men which Henry Bath Archbishop of Yorke erected on the other side a very great mount of earth called Hilshow cast up as they report by the Danes Within the Church Saint Wilfrides Needle was in our Grandfathers remembrance very famous A narrow hole this was in the Crowdes or close vaulted roome under the ground whereby womens honesty was tried For such as were chast did easily passe through but as many as had plaied false were miraculously I know not how held fast and could not creepe through The Abbay Fountaines aforesaid most pleasantly seated in a right plentifull Country and having Lead mines neere it had the originall from twelve precise Monkes of Yorke who fervently zealous to serve God in a more strict kinde of life forsooke their cloistures and addicted themselves to the ordinances of Saint Bernard For whom after they had reaped many Harvests of troubles Thurstine Archbishop of Yorke built this Abbay which was acknowledged an immediate daughter of Clarevalle and in a few yeeres became a mother to many others as Kirkstall Salley Meaux c. I have made more willingly mention of these because Saint Bernard in his Epistles so highly approved their life and discipline Not farre beneath there standeth by Vre a little Towne called Burrow bridge of the bridge that is made over the River which now is built very high and faire of stone worke but in King Edward the Second his time it seemeth to have beene of wood For wee reade that when the Nobles of England disquieted the King and troubled the State Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford in his going over it was at a chinke thereof thrust through the body about his groine by a souldier lying close under the Bridge Neere unto this Bridge Westward we saw in three divers little fields foure huge stones of Pyramidall forme but very rudely wrought set as it were in a streight and direct line The two Pyramides in the middest whereof the one was lately pulled downe by some that hoped though in vaine to finde treasure did almost touch one another the uttermore stand not farre off yet almost in equall distance from these on both sides Of these I have nothing else to say but that I am of opinion with some that they were Monuments of victory erected by the Romanes hard by the High Street that went this way For I willingly overpasse the fables of the common people who call them the Devils Bolts which they shot at ancient Cities and therewith overthrew them Yet will not I passe over this that very many and those learned men thinke they are not made of naturall stone indeed but compounded of pure sand lime vitriol whereof also they say there be certaine small graines within and some unctuous matter Of such a kinde there were in Rome cisternes so firmely compact of very strong lime and sand as Plinie writeth that they seemed to be naturall stones A little Eastward from this Bridge IS-URIUM BRIGANTUM an ancient City so called of the River Vre running by it flourished in ancient times but was rased to the very ground many ages past Neverthelesse the Village risen up neere the place giveth testimony of the Antiquity thereof for it is called Ealdburgh and Aldborrow But in that very plot of ground where the said City stood are now arable grounds and pastures so that scarce any footing thereof doth appeare Surely the very credite of Writers should have had much adoe to make us beleeve that this had beene IS-URIUM but that URE the Rivers name the Romane Coine daily digged up and the distance according to Antonines account betwixt this and Yorke warranted it For by that Vre which the Saxons afterward named Ouse because it hath entertained Ousburne a little River is gone sixteene Italian miles from hence hee runneth through the City EBORACUM or EBURACUM which Ptolomee in the second booke of his Great Construction calleth BRIGANTIUM if the said booke bee not corrupted because it was the chiefe City of the Brigantes Ninnius calleth it Caer Ebrauc the Britans Caer Effroc the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
that Towne where the King used to lye which Bede saith was situate neere unto the River Doroventio In which as hee also writeth Eumer that murderous Villaine thrust at Edwin King of Northumberland with a sword and had runne him through but that one of his men stepped betweene and saved the Kings life with the losse of his owne Yet could I never have said precisely which was the very place had not that most judicious Robert Marshall given me a light thereof For he gave me to understand that just at the very same distance from Yorke which I spake of there stands hard upon the River Darwent a little Towne named Auldby that is if you interprete the Saxon word The old Habitation where are extant yet in sight some tokens of Antiquity and upon a very high Hill neere unto the River the rubbish of an ancient Fortification so that it cannot chuse but to have beene the said City Derventio From hence glideth the River hard under Stanford-Bridge which also of the battaile there fought is called Battlebridge For at that Bridge Harald King of England after a great execution done upon the Danes flew in a pight field Harald Hardread King of Norway who with a Fleet of 200. saile grievously annoyed the Isle of Britaine and was now landed at Richall spoiling and wasting all in his way The King of England who having the honour of the field found among the spoiles such a masse of Gold as that twelve lusty young men had much adoe to carry it on their backes as Adam Bremensis recordeth This field was foughten scarce nine dayes before the arrivall of William Conquerour what time the dissolute and roiotous life of the Englishmen seemed to foretell their imminent overthrow and destruction But of this I have spoken before Derwent which when it is encreased with raine and as it were provoked to anger doth oftentimes contemne his bankes and surround the medowes lying about it passing from hence by Wreshil a proper and a strong Castle which Sir Thomas Percy Earle of Worcester built runneth amaine under Babthorpe which yeeldeth both name and habitation to a worshipfull Family of Knights degree and so at length dischargeth himselfe into Ouse Out of this stocke it was for let us not thinke much to tell of those who performed faithfull service to their Prince and Country that both father and sonne fighting together under the banner of King Henry the Sixth lost their lives in the Battaile of Saint Albans and were there buryed together with this Epitaph Cum patre Radulpho Babthorp jacet ecce Radulphus Filius hoc duro marmore pressus humo Henrici Sexti dapifer pater Armiger ejus Mors satis id docuit fidus uterque fuit c. Behold where two Raulph Babthorps both the sonne and father lye Under a stone of marble hard interr'd in this mould dry To Henry the Sixth the father Squire the Sonne he Sewer was Both true to Prince and for his sake they both their life did passe And now Ouse by this time carrying a fuller streame runneth neere Howden a Mercate Towne famous not so much for any beauty in it or great resort thereto as because it hath given name to a little Territory adjoyning called of it Howdenshire and had therein not long since a prety Collegiat Church of five Prebendaries unto which joyneth the Bishops house of Durrham who have great lands thereabout One of which namely Walter Skirlaw who flourished about the yeere of our Lord 1390. as we reade in the booke of Durrham built a very great and large steeple to this Church that if there happened by chance any inundation it might serve the inhabitants for a place of refuge to save themselves in And not farre from hence stands Metham which gave both sirname and habitation also to the ancient house of the Methams Now the River Ouse being very broad swift and roring besides out powreth his streame into the Frith or salt water ABUS For so calleth Ptolomee that arme of the Sea which the English Saxons and we tearme Humber whereof also the Country beyond it by a generall name was called Northumberland Both these names may seeme to have beene drawne with some little change from the British word Aber which among them signifieth the mouth of a River and I would thinke it was imposed upon this River by way of excellency because Ure or Ouse having entertained and lodged many Rivers carryeth them all with him along into this yea and other Rivers of right great name are emptied into it And verily it is one of the broadest armes of the sea and best stored with fish in all Britaine It riseth high as the Ocean at every tide floweth and when the same ebbeth and returneth backe it carryeth his owne streame and the currant of the Sea together most forcibly and with a mighty noise not without great danger of such as saile therein whence Necham writeth thus of it Fluctibus aequoreis nautis suspectior Humber Dedignans Urbes visere rura colit More fear'd of shipmen Humber streame than waves of sea so deepe Disdaining cities great to see neere country townes doth keepe And following the British History as if it had beene so called of a King of the Hunnes he addeth this moreover Hunnorum princeps ostendens terga Locrino Submersus nomen contulit Humbris aquae A Prince of Hunnes whiles that he shew'd his backe to Locrine brave Was drowned heere and so the name to Humber water gave Touching whom another Poet also Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic Dèque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae Whiles he turn'd backe and tooke his flight the River stopt the same There drown'd was he and then of him the water tooke the name Neither were there indeed any Cities seene to stand by this Arme of the Sea in Nechams daies but before and after there flourished one or two Cities in these places Under the Roman Empire not farre from the banke by Foulnesse a River of small account where Wighton a little Towne of Husbandry well inhabited is now seene stood as we may well thinke in old time DELGOVITIA and that I may not take hold of the distance from DERVENTIO for a proofe both the resemblance and the signification also of the name doe concurre For Delgwe in the British tongue signifieth The Statues or Images of the Heathen Gods and in a small Village adjoyning to this little Towne there was a Temple of Idols even in the Saxons time of exceeding great name and request which of those Heathen gods was then termed Godmundingham and now is called in the same sense Godmanham Neither doubt I but that even when the Britans flourished it was some famous Oracle much frequented when superstition spread and swaying among all Nations had wholly possessed the weake mindes of ignorant people But when Paulinus preached Christ unto Northumberland men Coy-fi who had beene a Pontife or
shooteth into the deepe sea and is to bee seene a farre off Hard by South Eske voideth it selfe into the Ocean which river flowing amaine out of a lake passeth by Finnevim Castle well knowne by reason of the Lindeseies Earles of Crawford keeping residence there of whom I have alreadie written Then upon the said river standeth Brechin which King David the first adorned with a Bishops See and at the very mouth thereof Mont-rose as one would say the Mount of Roses a towne in times past called Celurca risen by the fall of another towne bearing the same name which is seated betweene the two Eskes and imparteth the title of Earle to the family of the Grahams Concerning which towne Ionston hath these verses CELURCA five MONS ROSARUM Aureolis urbs picta rosis mons molliter urbi Imminet hinc urbi nomina facta canunt At veteres perhibent quondam dixisse Celurcam Nomine sic prisco nobilitata novo est Et prisca atque nova insignis virtute virumque Ingeniis patriae qui perperere decus MONT-ROSE With Roses gay the towne is deckt an easie Mount withall Stands neere the same and hence they say MONT-ROSE folke did it call In former times by ancient name Celurca men it knew Ennobled thus you see it is by name both old and new Both old and new renowne it hath for prowesse and for wit Of men that have their countrey grac'd and honour won to it Not farre from hence is Boschain belonging to the Barons of Ogiluy of very ancient nobilitie lineally descended from Alexander Sheriffe of Angus who was slaine in the bloodie battaile at Harley against the Mac Donald of the out Isles As touching the Earles of Angus Gilchrist of Angus renowned for his brave exploits under King Malcolm the fourth was the first Earle of Angus that I read of About the yeere 1242. Iohn Comin was Earle of Angus who died in France and his widow haply inheritrice to the Earldome was married to Sir Gilbert Umfranvill an Englishman For both hee and his heires successively after him were summoned to the Parliaments in England untill the third yeere of King Richard the second by the title of Earles of Angus Howbeit the Lawyers of England refused in their Brieves and instruments to acknowledge him Earle for that Angus was not within the kingdome of England untill hee had brought forth openly in the face of the Court the Kings writ and warrant wherein he was summoned to the Parliament by the name of Earle of Angus In the reigne of David Brus Thomas Stewart was Earle of Angus who by a suddaine surprise won Barwicke and streightwaies lost it yea and within a while after died miserably in prison at Dunbritton But the Douglasses men of haughtie mindes and invincible hearts from the time of King Robert the third have beene Earles of Angus after that George Douglasse had taken to wife the Kings daughter reputed the chiefe and principall Earles of Scotland and to whom this office belongeth to carrie the regall Crown before the Kings at all the solemne assemblies of the kingdome The sixth Earle of Angus out of this stocke was Archebald who espoused Margaret daughter to Henrie the seventh K. of England and mother to James the fifth King of Scots by whom he had issue Margaret wife to Matthew Stewart Earle of Lennox who after her brothers decease that died childlesse willingly resigned up her right and interest in this Earldome unto Sir David Douglasse of Peteindreich her unkles sonne by the fathers side and that with the consent of her husband and sonnes to the end that she might binde the surer unto her selfe by the linke also of a beneficiall demerite that family which otherwise in bloud was most neere what time as Henrie her son went about to wed Marie the Queen by which marriage King JAMES our Soveraigne the mightie Monarch of great Britaine was happily borne to the good of all Britaine MERNIS THese regions were in Ptolomees time inhabited by the VERNICONES the same perhaps that the VECTURIONES mentioned by Marcellinus But this their name is now quite gone unlesse wee would imagine some little peece thereof to remaine in Mernis For many times in common speech of the British tongue V. turneth into M. This small province Mernis abutting upon the German Ocean and of a rich and battle soile lieth very well as a plaine and levell Champion But the most memorable place therein is Dunnotyr a Castle advanced upon an high and unaccessible rocke whence it looketh downe to the underflowing sea well fensed with strong walls and turrets which hath beene a long time the habitation of the Keiths of an ancient and verie noble stock who by the guidance of their vertue became hereditarie Earles Mareschals of the kingdome of Scotland and Sheriffes of this province In a porch or gallerie here is to bee seene that ancient inscription which I mentioned even now of a companie belonging to the twentieth legion the letters whereof the right noble and honourable Earle now living a great lover of antiquitie caused to be guilded Somewhat farther from the sea standeth Fordon graced in some sort and commendable in regard of John de Fordon who being borne here diligently and with great paines compiled Scoti Chronicon that is The Scottish Chronicle unto whose laborious studies the Scottish Historiographers are very much indebted but more glorious and renowned in old time for the reliques of St. Palladius bestowed and shrined sometime as is verily thought in this place who in the yeere 431. was by Pope Caelestinas appointed the Apostle of the Scottish nation MARRIA or MAR. FRom the sea in the mediterranean or inland parts above Mernis MAR enlargeth it selfe and runneth forward threescore miles or thereabout where it lieth broadest Westwards it swelleth up with mountaines unlesse it bee where the rivers Dee which Ptolomee calleth DIVA and Done make way for themselves and enfertile the fields Upon the bank of Done Kildrummy standeth as a faire ornament to the countrey being the ancient seat of the Earles of Marre and not farre distant from it the habitation of the Barons Forbois who being issued from a noble and ancient stocke assumed this surname whereas before time they were called Bois after that the heire of that family had manfully killed a savage and cruell Beare But at the very mouth of this river there be two townes that give greater ornament which of the said mouth that in the British tongue they call Aber borrowing one name are divided asunder by one little field lying betweene the hithermore of them which standeth neerer to Dee mouth is much ennobled by an Episcopall dignitie which King David the first translated hither from Murthlake a little village by faire houses of the Canons an Hospitall for poore people and a free Grammar schoole which William Elphinston Bishop of the place in the yeere 1480. consecrated to the training up
England of the Kings Majesties Privie Counsell whom King James the sixth created Baron Brus of Kinlosse Thus much for the shore More inward where now standeth Bean Castle thought to bee BANATIA that Ptolomee mentioneth there was found in the yeere 1460. a vessell of marble artificially engraven and full of Roman coine Hard by is Nardin or Narne an hereditable Sherifdome of the Cambels of Lorne where there stood within a Biland a fortresse of a mightie heighth built with wonderfull bulwarks and in times past defended by the Danish forces against the Scottish A little off is Logh-Nesse a very great Lake as reaching out 23. miles in length the Water whereof is so warme that even in this cold and frozen climate it never freezeth from which by a verie small Isthim or partition of hils the Logh Lutea or Louthea which by Aber letteth it selfe forth into the West sea is divided Neere unto these Loghs there stood in old time two notable fortifications the one named Innernesse the other Innerlothea according to the names of the said Loghs Innernes hath for Sheriffe thereof by right of inheritance the Marquesse Huntly who is of great command hereabout But have here what M. Jonston hath written jointly of these two INNERNESSUS INNERLOTHEA Imperii veteris duo propugnacula quondam Primâ—que regali moenia structa manu Turribus oppositis adverso in limine spectat Haec Zephyrum Solis illa orientis equos Amnibus hinc atque hinc cincta utraque piscibus amnes Faecundi haec portu perpete tuta patet Haec fuit at jacet heu jam nunc sine nomine tellus Hospita quae Regum est hospita facta feris Altera spirat adhuc tenuis sufflamina vitae Quae dabit fati turbine victa manus Dic ubi nunc Carthago potens ubi Martia Roma Trojáque immensae ditis opes Asiae Quid mireris enim mortalia cedere fatis Corpora cùm videas oppida posse mori INNERNESSE AND INNERLOTHEA Two mightie forts and holds these were in ancient kingdomes daies The first wall'd fences as they say that hand of Kings did raise Affront with towres oppos'd they stand for one of them regards The Westerne winde but th' other looks the Sun-rising towards On both sides they their rivers have and rivers full of fish One hath an haven frequented aye and safe as heart can wish Such was it once but now alas to wast and desart fields Is turn'd and that which lodged Kings to wild beasts harbour yeelds The other yet draw's breath though deepe and shewes that it doth live But over match'd to destinie at length doth bucklers give What 's now become of Carthage great where is that martiall Rome Where Troy of wealthie Asia the riches all and some No marvaile now that mortall wights to death be subject why Because you plainly see that Townes and Cities great may dye Under the reigne of Robert Brus Thomas Randolph his sisters sonne who in his Countries behalfe undertooke exceeding great paines and most grievous quarrels was highly renowned by the title of Earle of Murray Under King Robert the Second John of Dunbarre tooke to wife the Kings daughter to make amends for her devirgination received this Earldome of Murray with her in marriage Under King James the second William Creichton Chancelour of the Realme and Archebald Douglas grew to great variance and eagre contention about this Earledome when as against the lawes and ancient customes Douglas who had married the younger daughter of James of Dunbar Earle of Murray was preferred to the Earldom before Creighton who had wedded the elder and that through the powerfull authoritie that William Earle Douglasse had with the King which was so great that he advanced not onely him to the Earldom of Murray but also another brother to the Earldome of Ormund and made two cousins of his Earles the one of Angus and the other of Morton But this greatnesse of his not to be trusted upon because it was excessive turned soone after to his owne confusion Under King James the fifth his own brother whom he appointed his Vicegerent in the government of the Kingdome enjoied this honour and within our remembrance James the base sonne of King James the fifth received this honour of Queene Mary his sister but he requited her basely when conspiring with some few of the Nobilitie he deposed her from her Royall estate and kingdome a foule president and prejudiciall to all Kings and Princes Which notwithstanding was revenged for shortly after hee was shot through with a bullet His onely daughter brought this title unto her husband Sir James Stewart of Downe who was also of the blood royall from the Dukes of Albany who being slain by his concurrents left his sonne James to succeed him in this honour LOQHUABRE WHatsoever beyond the Nesse bendeth to the West coast and adjoineth to the Lake Aber is thereupon called Loghuabre that is in the ancient tongue of the Britans The mouth of the Lakes as what lieth toward the North is commonly called Rosse Loqhuabre is full of fresh pastures and woods neither is without yron mines but not so free in yeeld of corne but for most fishfull pooles and rivers scarce inferiour to any country thereabout At Logh-Lothey Innerlothey fensed with a fort and well frequented with Merchants was of great name and importance in times past but being razed by the piracies and warres of Danes and Norwegians it hath lien for these many ages so forlet that there remaineth scarce any shew of it which those verses that I alledged even now doe imply Loqhuabre hath had so farre as I have read no Earles but about the yeere of our salvation 1050. there was a Thane over it of great fame and much spoken of named Banqhuo whom Macbeth the bastard when with murder bloodshed he had usurped the crowne being fearfull and suspicious caused to bee made away for that he had learned by a Prophesie of certaine wise women that his posteritie when the line of Macbeth was expired and extinct should one day obtaine the Kingdome and by a long successive descent reigne in Scotland Which verily hath fallen out accordingly For Fleanch the sonne of Banqhuo who unknowne in the darke escaped the traines laid for him â—led into Wales where for a time hee kept himselfe close and having taken to wife Nesta the daughter of Griffith ap Lewellin Prince of North-wales begat Walter who returning into Scotland with so great fame of his fortitude repressed the rebellion of the Ilanders and with as great wisdome managed the Kings revenewes in this tract that the King made him Seneschall whom they commonly call Stewart of the whole Kingdome of Scotland Whereupon this name of Office imposed the surname Stewart unto his posteritie who spreading throughout all parts of Scotland into a number of noble branches after many honours heaped upon them have flourished a long
Kilmacduoc Mage Enachdun De Celaiar De Rosconmon Clonfers Achad or Achonry Lade or Killaleth De Conany De Kilmunduach Elphin MOMONIA or MOUNSTER MOMONIA in Irish Mown and in ordinarie construction of speech Wown in English Mounster lieth Southward open to the Vergivian sea separated in some place from Connaght by the river Siney or Shanon and elsewhere from Lemster by the river Neor In times past it was divided into many parts as Towoun that is North Mounster Deswoun that is South Mounster Hier woun that is West Mounster Mean woun that is Middle Mounster and Urwoun that is The Front of Mounster but at this day into two parts that is into West Mounster and South Mounster In the West Mounster there dwelt in old time the LUCENI the VELABRI and UTERINI in the South the OUDIAE or VODIAE and the CORIONDI but at this day it is distinguished into seven Counties Kerry Desmund Corke Limiric Tipperary Holy Crosse and Waterford Where Ireland lieth out most Westward and treanding toward the Cantabrian Ocean looketh afarre off Southwest with a large interspace to Gallitia in Spaine there inhabited in old time the VELABRI and LUCENI as Orosius writeth The LUCENI of Ireland who may seeme to have had their name and beginning from the LUCENSII of Gallitia in the opposite coast of Spaine and of whose name some reliques still remain in the Barony of Lyxnaw were seated as I suppose in the Countie of Kerry and in Conoglogh hard by upon the banke of the river Shanon THE COUNTIE OF KERRY THe Countie of Kerry neere unto the mouth of Shanon runneth forth like a little tongue into the sea beaten on with barking billowes on both sides a country mounting aloft with wooddy wild and solitarie mountaines between which there lye many vallies in some places garnished with corn-fields in others beset also thicke with woods This is reputed a Countie Palatine and the Earles of Desmond had in it the dignitie and priviledges of a Count-Palatine and that by the bountifull gift of K. Edward the third who granted unto them all Regall liberties except foure pleas namely of Burning Rape Forstall and Treasure trouue with the profit growing de Croccis reserved for the Kings of England But through the licentious iniquitie of the men who neither would nor knew how to use this libertie it became of late a very sinke of mischiefes and a common receptacle for rebels In the entrance into this countrie there is a territorie called Clan-Moris of one Moris descended from the stocke of Raimund le Grosse whose heires successively were called the Barons of Lixnaw A little river now namelesse which the situation in some sort implieth to be DUR in Ptolomee cutteth through the midst of this running by Trayley a small towne laid now in manner desolate where the Earles of Desmund had an house Hard by standeth Ardart where the Bishop called of Ardefert a poore one God wot hath his poore See In the farthest point well neere of this where it maketh a promontorie there sheweth it selfe on the one side Dingle a commodious port on the other side Smerwic Sound a road for ships for so they tearme it short in steed of S. Mary-wic at which of late when Girald Earle of Desmund a man notorious for deep treacherie to his Prince and countrey wickedly wasted Mounster with continuall harrying and raising booties out of the fields there arrived certaine companies of Italians and Spaniards sent under-hand to aide him from Pope Gregorie the thirteenth and the King of Spaine who here fortifying a place which they called Fort del Ore made their bragging bravadoes and thundred out many a terrible threat But the most noble and martiall Baron Arthur Lord Grey Lord Deputie with his very comming and first onset that he made upon them decided the matter and ended the quarrell For immediately they yeelded themselves and the most part of them were put to the sword which was in policie thought the wisest and safest course considering in what ticklish tearmes the state of this Realme then stood and how the rebels in every place were up in armes And the Earle of Desmund himselfe at length in his fearefull flight being forced to take the woods hard by for his refuge was soone after in a poore cottage by a souldier or two rushing in upon him first wounded and afterwards being knowne cut shorter by the head and so paid worthily for his perfidious treason and the wasting of his countrey Here some man happily would thinke it not correspondent to the gravity of this worke if I should but relate what a ridiculous opinion hathfully possessed the minds of a number of the Irishry yea and perswaded them verily to beleeve that he who in that barbarous Pharoh and out cry of the Souldiers which with great straining of their voice they use to set up when they joine battaile doth not cry and hout as the rest doe is suddenly caught up from the ground and carried as it were flying in the aire into these desert vallies out of any country of Ireland whatsoever where he eateth grasse lappeth water knoweth not in what state he is good or bad hath some use of reason but not of speech but shall be caught at length with the help of hounds and the hunters and brought home to their owne homes DESMONIA or DESMOND BEneath those ancient LUCENI lieth DESMOND stretched out farre and wide toward the South called in Irish Deswown in Latine Desmonia inhabited in ancient times by the VELLABRI and IBERNI which in some copies are written UTERINI As for these VELABRI they may seeme so named of ABER that is salt water washes for that they dwelt upon such Friths divided one from another by many and those notable armes of the sea running betweene whence also the Artabri and Cantabri in Spaine had their denomination Among these armes of the sea three promontories beside Kerry aforesaid with crooked and winding shoares run out into the Southwest and those the inhabitants tearmed in old time Hierwoun that is West-Mounster The first of them betweene Dingle bay and the river Mair is named Clan-Car and hath a castle built at Dunkeran by the Carews of England In this dwelt Donald Mac Carty More a Lord of the Irish blood who in the yeere 1566. resigned up unto Queen Elizabeths hands his possessions and lands and tooke them againe of her to hold the same after the English manner by fee doing homage and fealtie And at the same time he was 〈◊〉 created Baron of Valentia an Island adjoining and Earle of Clan-car A man in this tract of great name and power a most deadly foe in times past of the Fitz-Giralds who disseized his ancestours Kings as hee stifly avoucheth of Desmond of their ancient seat and habitation But long enjoied not hee this honour and having but one onely daughter legitimate he matched her in marriage with Florence Mac Carty and
at the hands of King Henry the sixth the title and honour of Earle of Wiltshire to him and to the heires of his body who being Lord Deputy of Ireland as divers others of this race and Lord Treasurer of England standing attainted by King Edward the fourth was straight waies apprehended and beheaded but his brethren John and Thomas likewise proclaimed traytors kept themselves close out of the way John died at Jerusalem without issue Thomas through the speciall favour of King Henry the seventh was in the end restored to his blood who departed this life in the yeere 1515. leaving behinde him two daughters Anne married to Sir Iames de sancto Leodegano called commonly Sellenger and Margaret unto Sir William Bollein who bare unto him Sir Tho. Bollein whom King Henry the eighth created first Viscount Rochfort afterwards Earle of Wiltshire and of Ormond and afterward took Anne Bollein his daughter to wife who brought forth for England Queene Elizabeth a Prince of most happy memory and with all thankfulnesse to be alwaies remembred by the English and Irish. When Thomas Bollein was dead leaving no issue male Sir Pierce Butler a man of great power in Ireland descended of the Earles race whom Henry the eighth had before time created Earle of Osserie attained also to the title of Ormond and left the same unto his sonne James who had issue by the daughter and heire of James Earle of Desmond a sonne named Thomas Earle of Ormond now living whose faith and loyaltie hath been passing well tried and approved in many troubles and dangerous affaires who also hath joined in marriage his only daughter unto Theobald Butler his brothers son whom King James hath advanced lately to the title of Vicount Tullo Whereas some of the Irish and such as would be thought worthy of credit doe affirme that certaine men in this tract are yeerely turned into Wolves surely I suppose it be a meere fable unlesse haply through that malicious humour of predominant unkind Melancholy they be possessed with the malady that the Physicians call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which raiseth and engendereth such like phantasies as that they imagine themselves to bee transformed into Wolves Neither dare I otherwise affirme of those metamorphosed Lycaones in Liveland concerning whom many Writers deliver many and marvellous reports Thus farre as touching the Province of Mounster for the government whereof Queene Elizabeth when shee bethought herselfe most wisely politickly and princely which way she might procure the good and wealth of Ireland ordained a Lord President to be the reformer and punisher of inconsiderate rashnesse the director also and moderator of duty together with one Assistant two learned Lawyers and a Secretary and the first President that shee made was Sir Warham S. Leger Knight a man of great experience in Irish affaires LAGENIA or LEINSTER THe second part of Ireland which the inhabitants call Leighnigh the Britans Lein the English Leinster and Latine writers Lagenia and in the ancient lives of the Saints Lagen lieth all of it on the Sea-side Eastward bounded toward Mounster with the river Neor which notwithstanding in many places it passeth beyond on Connaght side for a good space with Shanon and toward Meath with the peculiar knowne limits The Countrey is fertile and fruitfull the aire most milde and temperate and the people there inhabiting come neerest of all other to the gentle disposition and civill conversation of England their neighbour Iland from whence they are for the most part descended In Ptolomees dayes therein were seated the BRIGANTES MENAPII CAUCI and BLANI and peradventure from these Blani are derived and contracted these later and moderne names Lein Leinigh and Leinster But now it is divided into the Counties of Kilkenny Caterlogh Queenes County Kings County Kildare Weisford and Dublin to say nothing of Wicklo and Fernes which either be already or else are to be laid thereto BRIGANTES or BIRGANTES THe BRIGANTES seeme to have planted themselves betweene the mouth of the river and the confluence of Neor and Barrow which in Ptolomee is called BRIGUS Now because there was an ancient City of the Brigantes in Spaine named BRIGANTIA Florianus del Campo laboureth tooth and naile to fetch these BRIGANTES out of his owne countrey Spaine But if such a conjecture may take place others might with as great probality derive them from the Brigantes of Britaine a nation both neere and also exceeding populous But if that be true which I finde in certaine copies that this people were called BIRGANTES both hee and the other have missed the marke For that these tooke their denomination of the river BIRGUS about which they doe inhabite the very name is almost sufficient to perswade us These BRIGANTES or BIRGANTES whether you will dwelt in the Counties of Kilkenny Ossery and Caterlogh watered all with the river BIRGUS THE COUNTIE OF KILKENNY THe Countie of Kilkenny is bounded West with the countie of Tipperary East with the counties of Weisford and Caterlogh South with the countie of Waterford North with Queenes Countie and Northwest with upper Osserie A countrey that with townes and castles on every side maketh a very goodly shew and for plenty of all things surpasseth the rest Neere unto Osserie the mighty and huge mountaines Sleiew Bloemy which Giraldus calleth Bladinae Montes with their rising toppes mount up to a wonderfull heigth out of the bowels whereof as from their mothers wombe issue the rivers Shour aforenamed Neor and Barrow which running downe in severall chanels before they enter into the Ocean joine hand in hand all together whereupon they in old time tearmed them The three sisters The Neor commonly called also Neure runneth in manner through the midst of Kilkenny county and when it is passed with a forward course by the upper Osserie the first Baron whereof was Barnabas Fitz-Patrick promoted to that honor by King Edward the sixth and hath watered many fortresses on both sides floweth beside Kilkenny which is as much to say as the Cell or Church of Canic which for the sanctimony of his solitary life in this country was highly renowned a proper faire and wealthy Burrough towne this is and far excelling all other midland Boroughs in this Iland divided into the Irish towne and the English towne The Irish towne is as it were the Suburbs and hath in it the said Canicks Church which both gave name unto it and now also affordeth a See unto the Bishop of Osserie But the English towne is nothing so ancient built as I have read by Ranulph the third Earle of Chester and fortified with a wall on the West side by Robert Talbot a Nobleman and with a castle by the Butlers And sure it is that in the division of lands between the daughters of William Mareschal Earle of Penbroch it fell unto the third daughter whom Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester married Somewhat beneath the same Neore standeth a little walled towne named in English Thomas Towne
the mendicant Friers as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging Neere to Armach upon a rising hill remain the reliques of an old castle Owen-Maugh they call it which was as they say the ancient habitation of the Kings of Ulster More East glideth the Black-water in the Irish tongue More that is Great which is the limit betweene this shire and Tir-Oen whereof I am to speak in due place In this country and about it Mac-Genis O Hanlan O Hagan and many of the sept of O-Neal assuming unto them sundry additions and by-names carry all the sway after a sort and over-rule the rest THE COUNTY OF DOWNE EAstward now followeth the county of DOWNE and that very large and fertile in soile stretched out even as farre as to the Irish sea reaching on the North side to the Lake Eaugh by a new name called Logh Sidney and on the South to the county of Louth from which the river Newry severeth it Upon this river in the very first entrance into this shire within our remembrance Sir Nicolas Bagnall Mareschall of Ireland who by his conduct atchieved here divers exploits and reduced the country to more civility built and fortified a towne of the same name Hard by it the river called Banthelesse issuing out of the desert mountaines of Mourne passeth through the country of Eaugh which belongeth to the family of Mac Gynnis Betweene whom and the O Neals who tyrannized in Ulster there fell in times past a controversie whether they were vassals to O Neal and whether they should find their followers and souldiers victuals c. this kind of service they call Bonoghty This hath unto it an Episcopall See at Dromore above which at the edge of Logh Eaugh are the tracts of Kilwlto and Kilwarny much encombred with woods and bogges These lye inwardly but by the maritime coast the sea doth so wind it selfe in and with sundry Creeks and Bayes encroach within the land yea and the Logh and Lake dilateth it selfe beside Dyffrin a valley full of woods the inheritance in old time of the Mandevils afterwards of the Whites in such sort that it maketh two bilands Lecall Southward and Ardes Northward Lecall a rich and battle ground beareth out farthest into the East of any part of Ireland and is the utmost Promontory or cape thereof which the Mariners now terme Saint Iohns Foreland Ptolomee calleth it ISANIUM perhaps of the British word Isa which signifieth Lowest In the very streight whereof flourished DUNUM whereof Ptolomee also made mention though not in the right place now named Down a towne of very great antiquity and a Bishops See renowned by the tombe of Saint Patricke Saint Brigid and Saint Columb upon which was written this rude riming distichon Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno Brigida Patricius atque Columba pius At Doun these three lie buried in one tombe Brigid Patricke and that devout Columb Which monument of theirs as the bruit runneth was demolished by the Lord Leonard Grey Deputy under King Henrie the eighth and sure it is that when he was arraigned for misgoverning and condemned therefore to death among other imputations he was charged that he had profaned this Cathedrall Church of Saint Patricke But as touching the Sepulcher of Saint Patricke the religious Priests were at variance like as the Cities of Greece in times past strove about the native country of the Poet Homer These of Downe challenge it to themselves and that upon the authoritie of the verses aforesaid Those of Armagh put in their claime out of the words of Saint Bernard which erewhile I alledged The Monkes of Glastenbury in England averred it to be with them and that out of the old Records and Evidences of their Abbey and some Scots have likewise avouched that as he was borne neere unto Glasco so likewise he was enterred there at Kirk-Patrick Into this Down Sir Iohn Curcy that Martiall Englishman and for a Warrior extraordinarily devout to Godward after hee had brought this country in subjection unto him was the first that brought in the Benedictine Monkes and he translated the Monasterie of Cariche which Mac Neal Mac Eulef King of Ulster had founded in Erinaich neere unto S. Finins Fountaine into the Isle called after his name Ynis-Curcy and endowed the same with lands assigned for it For before time the Monkes of Ireland as those of ancient times in Egypt whose maner and order that devour man Congell that is by interpretation A faire pledge brought over into Ireland being wholly given to prayer earned for themselves and the poore their living with the labour of their own hands Howbeit these Monasticall orders and customes as all humane things continued not long when their maners and carriage grew to be worse and riches had by little and little polluted piety which as a mother had formerly bred them Robert Abbat of Molisime in Burgundie studied and endevoured earnestly in times past to reduce and set on foot againe the said ancient Discipline and perswaded his owne Disciples to live with their handy labour to leave Tithes and Oblations unto the Priests that served in the Diocesse to forbeare wearing of Breeches made of woven cloth or of leather But they labouring to the contrary refused flatly to goe from the customes observed in the Monasteries of the West parts of the world which were knowne for certaine to have been instituted and ordained by Saint Maure scholar to Saint Benet and by Saint Columban But I have digressed too farre now will I returne againe By the sea-side stand Arglas where Saint Patrick by report founded a Church and Strangford called in old time Strandford a safe harbour where the river Coyn with a great and violent streame breaketh into the Sea Neere unto which in the Biland Lecale Queene Mary in her great bounty unto Noblemen liberally gave lands unto the Earle of Kildare And here of the English race the Russells Audleys Whites and the Bagnells who came thither last stoutly defend among the wild and fierce Irish not without danger what they and their ancestours won in these parts Ardes the other Biland called The Andes lieth over against to the North severed with a small chanell out of the Logh-Coin which on the West side encloseth it like as the sea on the East side and the Bay of Knoc-Fergus on the North. You may resemble it to the bent of the arme which by a very narrow Isthim or necke of land groweth to the rest of the Iland like as an arme to the shoulder The soile is every where passing good and bountifull but only in the mids where lieth out for twelve miles or thereabout in length a moist flat and boggy plaine The shore is sufficiently bespred with small villages and in times past had a most renowned Monasterie at the Bay of Knoc-Fergus of the same institution order and name as was that right ancient and famous Abbey in England neere unto Chester I
propriety but by turnes hee taketh for to use whomsoever hee fancieth whereby hee neither can have his wish nor hope of children Of these Islands the common people affirmeth there bee 44. whereas in truth there are many more Pliny wrote that there were 30. of them But Ptolomee reckoneth up but five The first is RICINA Pliny calleth it RICNEA Antoninus RIDUNA now termed Racline and I think it should be read in Antonine Riclina for cl easily maketh a d by joining a c at the backe unto it A small Iland this is butting full upon Ireland knowne unto the ancient writers for that it lieth in the very narrow sea betweene Ireland and Scotland famous at this day for no cause else but for the overthrow and slaughter of the Scottish Irish who otherwhiles possessed themselves of it and were thrust out by the English under the conduct of Sir William Norris in the yeere 1575. The next is EPIDIUM which by the name I would ghesse with that excellent Geographer Gerard Mercator lay neere unto the promontorie of the Epidii and to the shore And seeing there standeth apparently in the same situation an Iland called Ila of good largenesse and of a fruitfull plaine and champion soile I dare avouch that this was Epidium or the Isle of the Epidii for in some places it is read 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This carrieth in length 24. miles and is 16. miles broad so plentifull of cattell wheat and heards of red deere that it was the second seat next unto Man for the King of the Ilands as it is at this day of the Mac-Connels who herein have their Castle at Dunyweg Betwixt Ila and Scotland lieth Iona which Bede tearmeth Hy and Hu given by the Picts unto the Scottish Monkes for propagating and preaching of the Gospell among them where stood a Monasterie famous by reason of the Scottish Kings tombes and the frequent conversing of holy men therein among whom Columba the Apostle of the Picts was the principall of whose Cell the Iland also is called Columb-Kill like as the man also himselfe by a compound name was termed Columbkill as Bede witnesseth And here at length as some will have it a Bishops seat was ordained in Sodore a little towne whence all the Iles were also called Sodorensis for that it is reckoned to be in his Diocesse Then have you MALEOS that Ptolomee writeth of now called Mula whereof Plinie seemeth to make mention when hee saith Mella is reported to bee 25. miles larger than the rest For so we read in the most ancient edition of Plinie printed at Venice whereas in the Vulgar copies in steed of Reliquarum Mella is read Reliquarum nulla that is None of the rest c. The Eastern HEBUDA now called Skie from hence lieth out in a great length over against the shore or coast of Scotland the Westerne HEBUDA bending more Westward is now called Lewis the Lord whereof is Mac-Cloyd and in the ancient history of Man is named Lodhus full of steep and craggie little hills stony and very slenderly inhabited howbeit the largest of them all from which Eust is dis-joined with a very narrow wash All the rest save onely Hyrtha are of small account being either very stony or else inaccessible by reason of craggy cliffes scarce clad with any green-sord Yet the Scots purchased all these with their ready mony of the Norwegians as I have said before as if they had beene the very buttresses or pillars of the kingdome although they reape very small commodity thereby considering that the inhabitants the ancient true Scots or Irish being men of stout stomackes and desperate boldnesse will by no meanes be subject to the severity of lawes or awed by justice As touching their manners apparell and language they differ nothing at all from the wild Irishry of whom we have spoken before so that wee may easily know thereby that they be one and the selfe same nation originally They that beare the sway and doe rule in these Ilands are the families of Mac-Conel Mac-Alen whom others terme Mac-len Mac-Cloyd of Lewis and Mac-Cloyd of Harich But the mightiest house of them all is that of the Mac-Conels who glory in their pedegree as derived from Donald who in the reigne of Iames the third stiled himselfe King of the Ilands and with all kinde of cruelty in most savage and barbarous manner plagued Scotland which notwithstanding his sonne being outlawed paied deerely as forced to submit his whole estate absolutely unto the Kings will and pleasure and had of his gift some possessions assigned to him in Cantire In the foregoing age of this stocke there flourished Donel Gormy Mac-Conell that is The blew haply so surnamed of his apparell He had issue two sonnes Agnus Mac-Conell and Alexander he who leaving this barren and hungry Cantir invaded the Glinnes in Ireland Agnus Mac-Conell aforesaid was father of Iames Mac-Conell slaine by Shan O-Neale and of Surley Boy upon whom Queene Elizabeth of her bounty bestowed lands in Rout within Ireland Iames Mac-Conell had issue Agnus Mac-Conell of whom I have spoken before between whom and Mac-Clen there was such a deepe and inveterate hatred that the force of consanguinity was never able to quench the feud but that they polluted themselves most wickedly with one anothers bloud From the Haebudes if you hold sailes along by the shore toward the North-east you may at length discover the ORCADES now called ORKNEY being thirty Ilands or thereabout sundred by the Ocean which hath his walke and current betweene them A certain ancient fragment so calleth them as one would say Argat that is as the same interpreteth it Above the Getes but I would rather expound it Above Cath for it lyeth over against Cath a countrey of Scotland which of the Promontory they use to call Cathnesse the inhabitants whereof seeme to be named amisse by Ptolomee CARINI for CATINI In Solinus his time no man dwelled in them but overgrowne they were Vinceis or Iunceis herbis that is With binding or rushy weeds but now inhabited indeed they are yet destitute of woods bearing barley good store and altogether without wheat Among these Pomonia famous for an Episcopall See is the principall called by Solinus POMONA Diutina for the length of the daies there now the inhabitants tearme it Mainland as if it were the continent or maine adorned with the Bishops seat in Kirkwale a little towne and with two castles it yeeldeth plenty of tinne and of lead OCETIS also is reckoned by Ptolomee in number of these which now we ghesse to be named Hethy But whether Hey which is counted one of these be Plinies DUMNA or no I could never yet resolve Surely if it be not I would thinke that Faire Isle the onely towne whereof for it hath but one they call Dumo is that Dumna rather than with Becanus judge Wardhuys in Lapland to be it Iulius Agricola who first of all sailed round about Britaine with his fleet discovered out
BRITAIN OR A CHOROGRAPHICALL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST flourishing Kingdomes ENGLAND SCOTLAND and IRELAND and the Islands adjoyning out of the depth of ANTIQVITIE BEAVTIFIED WITH MAPPES OF THE severall Shires of ENGLAND VVritten first in Latine by William Camden CLARENCEUX K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick Finally revised amended and enlarged with sundry Additions by the said Author LONDON Printed by F. K. R. Y. and I. L. for GEORGE LATHAM 1637. BRITANNIA SI jactare licet mà gnorum munera diuûm Sibique veris fas placere dotibus Cur mihi non videar fortunatissima tellus Digna est malis bona quae parùm novit sua Vltima lanigeris animosa est India lucis Suis superbus est Arabs odoribus Thuriferis gaudet Panchaia dives arenis Ibera flumen terra jactat aureum Aegypto faciunt animos septem ostia Nili Laudata Rheni vina tollunt accolaâ— Laeta nec uberibus sibi displicet Africa glebis Haec portubus superbit illa mercibus At mihi nec fontes nec ditia flumina desunt Sulcive pingues prata nec ridentia Foeta viris foecunda feris foecunda metallis Ne glorier quòd ambiens largas opes Porrigit Oceanus neu quòd nec amicius ullâ Coelum nec aura dulcius spirat plagâ Serus in occiduas mihi Phoebus conditur undas Sororque noctes blanda ducit lucidas Possem ego laudati contemnere vellera Baetis Vbi villus albis mollior bidentibus Et tua non nequeam miracula temnere Memphi Verùm illa mà jor justiorque gloria Quòd Latiis quòd sum celebrata Britannia Grails Orbem vetustas quòd vocarit alterum For the easier reading of the English-Saxon words in this Booke I thought good to prefixe heere the Characters of the English Saxon Alphabet A a b b c c d d E E e e f f g g h h i i l l m m n n o o p p q q r r S S s s t t u u Æ¿ w X X x x y y AE AE ae ae à Th ð th þ th and ê§ that PVELIVS OVIDIVS NASO Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos Ducit immemores non sinit esse sui BRITAIN OR A CHOROGRAPHICALL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST flourishing Kingdomes ENGLAND SCOTLAND and IRELAND and the Islands adjoyning out of the depth of ANTIQVITIE BEAVTIFIED WITH MAPPES OF THE severall Shires of ENGLAND VVritten first in Latine by William Camden CLARENCEUX K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick Finally revised amended and enlarged with sundry Additions by the said Author LONDON Printed by F. K. R. Y. and I. L. for GEORGE LATHAM 1637. SERENISSIMO POTENTISSIMOQVE PRINCIPI IACOBO BRITANNIAE MAGNAE FRANCIAE ET HIBERNIAE REGI FIDEI PROPVGNATORI AD AETERNITATEM BRITANNICI NOMINIS IMPERIIQVE NATO PERPETVAE PACIS FVNDATORI PVBLICAE SECVRITATIS AVTHORI GVILIELMVS CAMDENVS MAIESTATI EIVS DEVOTISSIMVS D. D. CONSECRATQVE THE AVTHOR TO The Reader I Hope it shall be to no discredite if I now use againe by way of Preface the same words with a few more that I used twentie foure yeares since in the first edition of this worke Abraham Ortelius the worthy restorer of Ancient Geographic arriving heere in England about thirtie foure yeares past dealt earnestly with mee that I would illustrate this Isle of BRITAINE or as he said that I would restore antiquitie to Britaine and Britaine to his antiquitie which was as I understood that I would renew ancientrie enlighten obscuritie cleare doubts and recall home Veritie by way of recovery which the negligence of writers and credulity of the common sort had in a manner prescribed and utterly banished from amongst us A painfull matter I assure you and more than difficult wherein what toyle is to be taken as no man thinketh so no man believeth but hee that hath made the triall Neverthelesse how much the difficultie discouraged mee from it so much the glory of my country encouraged me to undertake it So while at one and the same time I was fearefull to undergoe the burthen and yet desirous to doe some service to my Country I found two different affections Feare and Boldnesse I know not how conjoyned in me Notwithstanding by the most gracious direction of the ALMIGHTY taking INDVSTRY for my consort I adventured upon it and with all my studie care cogitation continuall meditation paine and travaile I imploied my selfe thereunto when I had any spare time I made search after the Etymologie of Britain the first Inhabitants timorously neither in so doubtfull a matter have I affirmed ought confidently For I am not ignorant that the first originals of nations are obscure by reason of their profound antiquitie as things which are seene very deepe and far remote like as the courses the reaches the confluencies the out-lets of great rivers are wel knowne yet their first fountaines and heads lie commonly unknown I have succinctly run over the Romans government in Britain and the inundation of forraigne people thereinto what they were and from whence they came I have traced out the ancient divisions of these Kingdomes I have summarily specified the states and judiciall Courts of the same In the severall Counties I have compendiously set downe the limits and yet not exactly by pearch and pole to breed questions what is the nature of the soile which were places of greatest antiquitie who have beene the Dukes Marquesses Earles Vicounts Barons and some of the most signall and ancient families therein for who can particulate all What I have performed I leave to men of judgement But time the most sound and sincere witnes will give the truest information when envy which persecuteth the living shall have her mouth stopped Thus much give me leave to say that I have in no wise neglected such things as are most materiall to search and sift out the Truth I have attained to some skill of the most ancient British and English-Saxon tongues I have travailed over all England for the most part I have conferred with most skilfull observers in each country I have studiously read over our owne country writers old and new all Greeke and Latine authors which have once made mention of Britaine I have had conference with learned men in other parts of Christendome I have been diligent in the Records of this Realme I have looked into most Libraries Registers and memorials of Churches Cities and Corporations I have pored upon many an old Rowle and Evidence and produced their testimonie as beyond all exception when the cause required in their very own words although barbarous they be that the honour of veritie might in no wise be impeached For all this I may be censured unadvised and scant modest who being but of the lowest fourme in the schoole of Antiquitie where I might well have lurked in obscuritie have adventured as a scribler upon the stage in this learned age amidst the diversities of
Gomeraei and Gomeritae From these Gomarians or Gomeraeans of Gaul I have alwaies thought that our Britaines drew their beginning and from thence for a proofe of the said beginning brought their name the very proper and peculiar name also of the Britans hath perswaded mee thereunto For even they call themselves ordinarily Kumero Cymro and Kumeri like as a British woman Kumeraes and the tongue it selfe Kumeraeg Neither acknowledge they any other names although some there be not of the greatest skill who from hence have coined in the former age these words Cambri and Cambria Yea and that Grammarian whom Virgil in his Catalects so taunteth and termeth the Britaine Thucydides Quintilian saith was a Cimbrian And whence trow yee should wee thinke these names proceed but from that Gomer and the Gomerians in Gaul next adjoyning which was the seate of the old Gomerians That the Germans came of Aschenaz the Turks from Togorma sonnes of Gomer the learned doe verily thinke because the Jewes even at this day call these Togormah like as the former Aschenas That the Thracians Iones Riphaeans and Moschi c. are the posteritie of Thirax Javan Riphat and Moschus no man denieth for that the names sound not unlike Semblably that the Ethiopians were the seed of Chus and the Egyptians of Misraim because they carry the same names in their owne languages no man there is but granteth Why should not we then confesse that our Britaines or Cumerians are the very posteritie of Gomer and of Gomer tooke their denomination For the name accordeth passing well and granted it is that they planted themselves in the utmost borders of Europe Which thing also the very name of Gomer imposed first not upon some light occasion but even by Divine providence and inspiration doth signifie For Gomer in the Hebrew tongue betokeneth utmost Bordering Neither let any man by way of reproch object unto our Cumeri or Cimbri what Sext. Pompeius hath writen That theeves in the French tongue are called Cimbri For albeit the Cimbri among whom it is likely that our Cumeri were living in that couragious and bold age of the world wherein martiall proësse flourished wandring as Possidonius writeth from these marches of Europe warred by way of robberie as farre as to the lake Maeotis yet for all that the word Cimbri no more signifieth a thiefe than Aegyptius one that is superstitious or Chaldaeus an Astrologer and Sybarita a delicate dainty-mouth But because those nations were so given therefore they that are such beare their names And in this point agreeth right with mee that singular ornament of learning Joseph Scaliger Neither let any man marvell wherefore I call not Berosus heere to take my part out of whom writers in these daies furnish themselves with so great meanes Certes to speake my mind at once the edge of that Berosus his authoritie who commonly goeth under that name is in my account so Blunt and dull that I together with the best learned of our age as namely Volaterran Vives Antonius Augustinus Melchior Canus and especially Gaspar Varrerius thinke it to be nothing else but a ridiculous figment of some craftie foister and jugling deceiver which Varrerius in his Censure of Berosus Printed at Rome is soone able to remove out of the Readers minds that errour of theirs so deepely setled concerning this writer This is mine opinion and conjecture rather of the Britans originall For in things of so great Antiquitie a man may more easily proceede by guesse than upon grounded reason pronounce sentence either way And verily this their beginning from Gomer and out of Gaule seemeth more substantiall ancient and true than that from Brutus and Troy Nay that this soundeth rather to a truth and that our Britaines are the very off-spring of the Gaulois me thinkes I am able to prove by the name scite religion manners and language by all which the most ancient Gaules and Britaines have beene as it were in some mutuall societie linked together And that I may this doe let me I pray you with favourable good leave range abroad for a while at my pleasure As touching the name because I have spoken thereof before thus much onely will I repeate that as the ancient Gaules are called Gomeraeans Gomeritae Gomeri and by contraction Cimbri so likewise our Britaines be named Cumeri and Kimbri Now that the Gaules were called Gomeri Josephus and Zonaras as I said doe joyntly prove That they were named also Cimbri may be gathered out of Cicero and Appian Those Barbarians whom Marius defeated Cicero plainely termeth Gauls C. Marius quoth he repressed the armies of the Gauls entring in great numbers into Italy But all Historiographers witnesse that they were Cimbrians and the Habergeon of their King Beleus digged up at Aquae Sextiae where Marius put them to flight hath shewed the same For engraven it was with strange letters thus BELEOS CIMBROS Likewise that they who under the conduct of Brennus spoiled Delphi in Greece were Gaules all writers with one voice and mind agree and yet that these were named Cimbri Appian in his Illyricks doth testifie The Celts or Gauls quoth he whom they call Cimbrians And heere will I neither cite the testimonie of Lucane who calleth the hackster that was hired and sent to kill Marius a Cimbrian whom Livie and others affirme to have beene a Gaule nor alleage Plutarch who nameth the Cimbrians Gallo-scythians ne yet Reinerius Reineccius an excellent Historian who constantly averreth out of Plutarch in his Sertorius that the Gaules and Cimbrians used the same language Neither will I urge and streine to my purpose that onely word of the Cimbrians which remaineth among authors and is produced by Plinie out of Philemon to wit Morimarusa i. the dead Sea although it be meere British For Mor with the Britans signifieth Sea and Marw dead Seeing therefore that these people agreed in the most ancient name from whence passed the said name into this Isle but even with the first Inhabitants out of Gaule lying so neere and by a very small streight of sea severed from it For the world was not altogether and at once inhabited but grant wee must that the countries neerer adjoyning unto the mountaines of Armenia where the Arke rested after the flood and from whence mankind was encreased were peopled before others and namely Asia the lesse and Greece before Italy Italy before Gaule and Gaule before Britaine The consideration whereof is most delectable in that the highest Creator had joyned regions and withall dispersed the Islands so as their is no such great distance betweene any of them but that even those which lie farthest off may from some one neere adjoyning be seen and plainly as it were discerned by the eie And for no other purpose was this done but that the nations when they should over-abound might discover and describe some places to passe unto and
disburthen themselves so long untill the universall world were to the glory of the Creator replenished with Inhabitants every where Wee ought therefore to bee perswaded that the ancient Gomerians of Gaule now France either chased away by the pursuit of others or cast out for lessening of the multitude or else inflamed with a desire to travell and see farre countries a thing naturally inbred in men crossed the sea and came over first into this Isle which from the continent they were able to kenne And it stands to verie good reason also that every countrie received the first Inhabitants from places neere bordering rather than from such as were most disjoyned For who would not thinke that Cyprus had the first Inhabitors out of Asia next unto it Crete and Sicilie out of Greece neereby and Corsica out of Italy a neighbour countrie and not to goe farre Zeland out of Germanie the neerest unto it as also Island out of Norway rather than from the remote tracts of Tartarie and Mauritania In like manner why should not wee thinke that out Britaine was inhabited at first by the Gaules their neighbours rather than either by the Trojans or Italians the Alabâ—s and Brutians so farre distant and remoove Neither doe writers fetch the originall and infancie as it were of the Britaine 's from any other place than their neighbour country Gaul The inner parts of Britaine saith Caesar is inhabited of them whom they themselves report out of their records to have beene borne in the Island the Sea coast of those who upon purpose to make warre had passed thither out of Belgium in Gaule who all in manner carie the names of those cities and States out of which they came thither and after they had warred there remained For there were in Britaine like as also in Gaule people named Belgae Atrebatii Parisi Cenomanni c. Semblably Tacitus Generally quoth he if a man consider all circumstances it is most likely that the Gaules beeing neighbours peopled the land of Britaine next unto them Yea and Beda one that among all our writers favoureth the truth At the first saith hee this Island had those Britaines onely to inhabite it from whom also it tooke the name who by report having sailed out from the tract of Armorica into Britaine challenged unto themselves the South coasts thereof Now he calleth the tract of Armorica the sea coasts of Gaule opposite unto our Island This also seemeth to make for our purpose that Caesar reporteth How Divitiacus the Gaule even in his remembrance held a good part both of Gaule and also of Britannie under his government as also that which is of greatest moment Plinie among the maritime people just over against Britaine neere unto the County of Bullen reckoned the Britaines like as Dionysius after a more ancient writer than he in these verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Word for word thus And verily that utmost point and angle of this part Inhabite the Iberians people of haughtie heart Neere Gebraltar at Hercules his pillars cal'd of old Turning up the maine in length what way the current cold Of Northern Ocean with strong tides doth interflow and swell Where Britaines and those faire white folke the martiall Germans dwell For these words where Britaine 's seeme to have respect unto those other Turning upon the maine in length and Eustathius who did set forth his Commentaries upon this author understandeth it of the Britons in Gaule in these words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is And of these Britons the Isles of Britaine over against them tooke their denomination Howbeit Avienus and Stephen in his booke of Cities are of a contrarie mind Moreover the same Religion was of both people observed Among the Britaines saith Tacitus there is to bee seene in their ceremonies and superstitious perswasions an apparant conformitie with the Gaules The Gaules quoth Solinus after a detestable manner of sacred rites not to the honor but rather to the injurie of religion offred mans flesh in their sacrifices That the Britaines did the very same Dio Cassius beside others reporteth in his Nero. Both Nations also had their Druidae as Caesar and Tacitus very sufficient writers doe witnesse Concerning which Druidae let not the Reader thinke much to run over this whole passage out of Caesar. The Druidae are present at all Divine service The overseers they be of publike and private sacrifices the interpretours also of their religious rites and ceremonies To these a great number of younge men doe flocke for to bee taught and those doe they highly esteeme and honour For lightly they decide and determine all controversies as well publike as private And in case any hainous fact bee committed if there bee a murther or man-slaughter if variance arise about inheritance if strife about the bounds of lands they in their discretion judge of the matter they appoint rewards they award penalties and punishments If any either private person or body politike stand not to their Decree they put them by all sacrifices as excommunicate And this among them is the most grievous punishment They that be thus interdicted are reckoned as godlesse and most wicked persons All men decline from them they avoid both meeting and talking with them for feare of taking harme by contagion from them Neither have they the benefits of Law though they request it nor be capable of any office though they sue for it Moreover of all these Druides there is one President who hath the greatest authoritie among them When he is dead looke who excelleth the rest in worth and dignitie he succeedeth him But if there be many of equall estimation chosen there is one by the voices of the Druides Sometimes also they fall together by the eares and take armes about this place of precedencie These Druides at one certaine time of the yeare hold a solemne Session within a consecrated place in the marches of the Carnutes a countrey held to be the middle of all France Hither resort as unto the terme from all parts as many as have any controversies or suits in law and to their judgements and decrees they yield obedience Their learning and profession is thought to have beene first found and devised in Britaine and so from thence translated into France and now also in these daies they that desire more exact knowledge thereof goe thither for the most part to be instructed therein The Druides are wont to bee freed from warfare neither with the rest pay they tribute Immunitie they have in exemption as from war-service so from all other charges whatsoever Thus many there bee who being excited with so great rewards and of their owne accord meete together at Schoole for to learne and are thither sent by their kinsfolke friends and parents There by report they learne by rote a great number
not now acknowledge howbeit that it hath been in use among the Britans Rhediad for a course Rheder to run and Rhedecfa a race doe plainly shew which words that they spring from the same stocke no man need to make doubt And what absurditie were it from hence to derive Eporedia a City of the Salassians which Pliny writeth tooke that name of Horse-breakers Another kind of waggon a charriot there was used of both these people which by one name they called Covinus and the driver Covinarius And albeit this word together with that kind of waggon it selfe be quite growne out of use yet the primitive thereof as I may so say remaineth still among the Britains in whose language the word Cowain signifieth to carry or ride in a waggon Essendum likewise was a Gaulish waggon or charriot rather meet for the warres which together with Caesar Propertius attributes to the Britans in this verse Essedacaelatis siste Britanna jugis Stay there your British charriots with yokes so faire engrav'n Circius is a wind by name passing well knowne unto which Augustus Caesar both vowed and also built a temple in Gallia That the word is Gaulish Phavoriâ—us a Gaulois borne declareth in Agellius Our Gauls saith he call the wind blowing out of their land and which they find to be most fell and boisterous by the name of Circius of the whirling and whistling I suppose that it makes Of all winds this is known to be most blustering and violent now Cyrch with the Britans betokeneth force and violence as may be seene in their Letany The Pennine Alpes which Caesar calleth the highest Alpes had this name imposed upon them as Livie writeth not of Annibal Poenus that is the Carthaginian but of that Hill which with the highest top among the Alpes the Mountainers of Gaule consecrated and named Penninus But Pen with the Britans even in these daies signifieth the tops of hils whence the highest mountaines that we have to wit Pen-monmaur Pendle Pen Pencoh-cloud and Pennigent gat their names Neither have the high mountaines Apennini in Italy their name from ought els The cities and States of Gaule coasting upon the Ocean were called as Caesar writeth after the custome of the Gauls Aremoricae with whom the Britans accord in the same name for the same thing For with them Ar-more is as much as by the sea or upon the sea And in the very same sense Strabo nameth them in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In the raigne of Dioclesian the Emperor the rurall people in Gaule made a commotion And to the crue of that faction of theirs they gave the name Baucadae And among the Britans Swineheards and country gnoffs be called Beichiad The inborne theeves of the land the Gauls saith Sidonius named Vargae And I have found in the Glossarie of the Cathedrall Church of Lhandaff that theeves in the British tongue were in old time knowne by the name of Veriad The Allobrogae saith that ancient and excellent Scholiast upon Iuvenal were so named because Brogae in French signifieth a land or Territorie and Alla another As one would say Translated out of another place But Bro in British is a region or country and Allan without or externall so that the Etymologie in both tongues holdeth very well There is an herbe like to Plantain called in Gaule Glastrum saith Plinie wherewith the Britans died and coloured themselves as writers testifie This is the herbe which we terme Woad and it giveth a blew colour which colour at this day the Britans terme Glasse This was the Greeks Isatis by the testimony of Plinie and the Diars vitrum by the authority of Oribasius Whereby Pomponius Mela may easily be corrected if in stead of Ultro you put Vitro where he saith thus Britanni incertum ob decorem an ob quid aliud ultro corpora infecti that is whether the Britans died their bodies with woad for a beautifull shew or in some other respect it is uncertaine The Gallathians who spake the same language as S. Hierome witnesseth that the ancient Gauls did had a little shrub called Coccus of which that deep red skarlet colour was made and this very colour the Britans usually name Coco That Brachae were garments common to French and Britains wee have shewed before Diodorus Siculus calleth such unshorne or undressed and of sundry colours And even now adaies the Britans terme foule and ragged clothes Brati If Laina was an old Gaulish word as Strabo seemeth to tell us when he writeth thus The Gauls weave them cassocks of thickned wooll which they call Lainas the Britans are not gone far from them who in their tongue name wooll Glawn Bardus in the Gauls tongue signifieth a Singer Festus Pompeius is mine author and this is a meere British word Bardocucullus as we are taught out of Martial and others was the cloake that the Gaulish Bardi woore And like as Bard so the other part also of the foresaid word remaineth whole among the Britans who call such a cloake Cucull. Gaul saith Plinie yeelded a kinde of Corne of their owne which they called Brance and we Sandalum a graine of the finest and neatest sort Among the Britans likewise meale of the whitest graine is named Guineth Urane The herbe which the Greekes of five leaves doe call Pentaphyllon was named of the Gaules Pempedula as sheweth Apuleius Now Pymp in British is five and Deilen a leafe As the Gaules by Pymp meant the number of five so by Petor foure as wee learne out of Festus who sheweth that Petoritum was a chariot or wagon of the Gaules so called of foure wheeles and this word Pedwar in the British tongue signifieth foure Among wooden instruments Canterium in English a Leaver was among the Gaules called Guvia as Isidorus writeth and novv the same in the British language is named Gwif Betulla vvhich vve call Byrch Plinie nameth a Gaulish tree Hee vvould if he lived novv call it the British tree For it groweth most plentifully in Britaine and in the British tongue is named Bedw Wine delayed with water as we read in Athens the Gaules called Dercoma and among the Britans Dwr betokeneth water And even so not to prosecute all that may be said in Dioscorides the herbe Ferne called in Latin Filix and of the old Gauls Ratis is in the British tongue termed Redin The Elder tree in Latine Sambucus in the old Gaulish Scovies is in British Iscaw The herbe in Italy Seratula in old Gaulish Vetonica the Britans and wee doe call Betany That which in Plinie the Latines name Terrae adeps that is the fat of the ground the Gaules Marga is of the Britans called Marle The white or bright marle named of the Latines Candida Marga of the Gaules Gliscomarga might of the Britans be termed Gluismarl For Gluys with
cannot be reduced either to the Latine or German Originall and therefore may be thought of the old Gallique doe come as neere unto the British as is possible As for example the French men at this day use Guerir and the Britans Guerif for To heale The French say Guaine the Britans Gwain for a sheath The French Derechef the Britaines Derchefu for againe The French Camur the Britaines Cam for crooked the French Bataeu the Britaines Bad for a Boad the French Gourmand for an over-great-eater the Britans Gormod for Overmuch the French Baston the Britans Pastwn for a staffe or cudgill the French Accabler the Britans Cablu for to oppresse the French Haure the Britans Aber for an Haven and Comb is still used of both the nations for a Valley There are of this sort very many more which haply the Reader may distaste although they serve especially for this purpose now in hand But whereas Tacitus writeth that the people of the Aestii used the fashions and habit of the Suevians but in language came neerer to the Britans that maketh nothing against my Assertion For the Languages most remote in some points agree And of late Aâ—gerius Busbequius Embabssadour from the Emperour to the great Turke hath observed many Dutch and English words in the Biland Taâ—rica Chersonessus Hereupon it may be concluded that the ancient Gauls Inhabitants of the country now named France and Britaines of this Isle spake one and the same language and by necessary consequence the originall of the Britaines is to bee reduced unto the Gauls For we must confesse as I said before that France or Gaul was peopled before Britain as lying neerer unto Armenia and as it was plentifull in corne so by the testimony of Strabo more fruitfull of men Seeing also that the Gauls sent out and planted their colonies all abroad in Italy Spaine Germanie Thracia and Aâ—ia much more then by all reason and congruitie in Britan so neere and no lesse plenteous than the rest Neither can it chuse but make for the Britaines reputation even in the highest degree to have derived their beginning from the ancient Gauls who in martiall prowesse have surpassed all others with whom the Romans for many years maintained war not about superioritie in glory but for the very main chance of life and living and who to use the Poets words rather than mine owne Per omnem Invecti Europam quasi grando Aquilone vel Austro Importata gravi passim sonnere tumultu Scit Romanus ad huc quam Tarpeia videtis Arx attolentem caput illo in monte superbum Pannones Aemathii norunt scit Delphica rupes Invasions made all Europe through and like some storme uncouth Of suddaine haile brought in by force of wind from North or South A foule stir kept with hideous noise what way thy ever went The Romans and their stately Towre which rais'd with steep ascent On Tarpie cliffe doth mount aloft full well this yet doe know Pannonians Aemathians eke with Delphick rocke also And a little after Intravere Asiae fines prope littora Ponti In gentem crevere novam quaetenditur usque Ad juga Pamphilium Garamantica sydera contra Inter Cappadoces posita Bythinica regna They entred then the Asian bounds neere Pontus shore they go And grew there to a nation new extending close unto Pamphylian hils where opposite the Garamants are seene Seated the Cappadocians and Bithyne realme betweene Neither must we here passe over in silence those reasons which others have alleaged to prove the Britans first rising from the Gauls George Buc a man both well descended and well learned observeth out of Mekercus that the Germans call a French man Wallon And when the Saxons of Germany came hither and heard the Britaines speake Gaul-like they termed them Walli that is Galli that is to say Gaules Buchananus saith moreover that Walch doth not simply among the Germans signifie a stranger but rather in a better sense a Gaul And withall he noteth thus much that the French at this day doe name that country Galles which we call Wales also that the ancient Scots divided all the British nations into Gaol and Galle that is to say after his Interpretation into the Gallaeci and the Galli But if our Britans will needs be descended from the Trojanes they shall not verily have me to gainesay them and yet shall they in mine opinion ascribe their originall to the Trojanes best of all by the old Gauls For some say as we reade in Ammianus that some few who after the destruction of Troy fled possessed themselves of Gaul at that time void and unpeopled But when wee thus consider these languages we cannot but highly admire and set forth the divine goodnesse of the most high Creatour toward our Britaines the posteritie of that ancient Gomer who although the Romans Saxons and Normans have subdued them and triumphed over them yet hitherto have they preserved their old name and originall language safe and sound notwithstanding the Normans sought to abolish the same even by their lawes enacted for that purpose Insomuch as an old Britan one of their nobilitie being demanded of Henry the second King of England what he thought of the Britans power and the Kings warlike preparation made against them answered not impertinently after this manner This Nation quoth he O King may now by the assaults of your selfe and others be molested and for the most part destroied or weakned like as heretofore and oftentimes it hath been But be the displeasure of man what it will unlesse the wrath of God concur withall it will never bee utterly wasted and consumed Neither shall any other nation or language else as I suppose answer in the straight day of judgement before that supreame Iudge for this angle of the World what ever may happen furthermore than the Welsh that is the British nation THE NAME OF BRITAINE BVt you will say If Cumero be the primitive name of the Inhabitants whence comes Albion whence comes Britaine which name hath so growne in ure that in some sort it hath caused the other to be quite forgotten But heare I pray you that whereof I am most assured because it is most true As the selfe same things may be considered by divers circumstances so they may be called also by sundry appellations as Plato teacheth in his Cratylus â—f you run over all particulars severally both new and old you shall find that every nation was of others called by divers names from those that they themselves used Thus they that in their native tongue had Israelites to their name according to the Greeks were called Hebrewes and Jewes and by the Egyptians Huesi as witnesseth Manetho because they had Heardmen for their governours So the Greeks named them Syrians who as Josephus writeth calleth themselves Aramaeans They that named themselves Chusians were by the Grecians of their blacke faces called Ethiopians Those which after their owne speech were
course under sayle so long the Saylors forbare to eat They used a drinke made of barley and so doe wee at this day as Dioscorides writeth who nameth Curmi wrong for Kwrw for so the Britaines call that which we terme Ale Many of them together had but one wife among them as Eusebius recordeth in Evangelica Praeparatione 6. Plutarch reporteth That they lived one hundred and twenty yeares for that the cold and frozen countrey wherein they dwelt kept in their naturall heat But what those ancient times of cruell Tyrants were whereof Gildas writeth I know not unlesse he meaneth them that in this countrey tooke upon them the sway of government against the Romans and were at that time called Tyrants for soone after he addeth thus much out of S. Hierome Porphyrie raging in the East-parts as a mad dog against the Church annexed thus much to his furious and vaine stile Britaine saith he a Province plentifull of tyrants Neither will I speake of their ancient religion which is not verily to be counted religion but a most lamentable and confused Chaos of Superstitions For when Satan had drowned the true doctrine in thicke mists of darkenesse The ugly spectres of Britaine saith that Gildas were meere Diabolicall exceeding well neere in number those of Egypt whereof some we doe see within or without desert walles with deformed lineaments still carrying sterne and grim lookes after their wonted manner But whereas it is gathered that the Britaine 's were together with Hercules at the rape of Hesione and that out of these verses which they take to bee made by Cornelius Nepos whiles he describeth the marriage of Telamon and Hesione Et in aurea pocula fusi Invitant sese pateris plebs mista Britanni Mid cups of gold a medly sort thus lying all along Boll after Boll quaft lustily and Britans them among That is altogether poeticall and I can cleerely by good evidences as it were under hand and seale prove that the author thereof was not as the Germans would have it Cornelius Nepos but one Ioseph of Excester who hath made mention of our King Henrie the second and Thomas Archbishop of Canterburie Whether Ulysses entred thus farre whose arrivall in Caledonia a certaine altar engraven with Greeke letters as Solinus saith hath testified Brodaeus maketh doubt and I would judge that erected it was rather in the honour of Ulysses than by Ulysses himselfe although they avouch Ulysses to bee the very same Elizza that was Japhets sonne For apparant it is out of Histories and alreadie I have said as much that the most ancient Greeks undertooke long voyages by sea and land no marvell then it ought to seeme if their be also some names and monuments of theirs found in divers places And often times they derived those names not so much from their owne denominations as from Worthies who were held in as much reverence if not more among them as were either Confessors or Martyrs among Christians Like as therefore the names of Saint John Saint Dominicke Saint Francis and infinite other Saints departed are imposed upon new-found places so also that it hapned time out of mind with the Greeks who will denie but who among all the worthies made either more wandring voyages or of longer continuance at Sea than did Vlysses No marvell then if Sailers made vowes very often unto him above all others and unto those places where they arrived and landed did consecrate according to their vowes names from him Thus Vlyssippo upon the mouth of the river Tagus tooke the name and thus elsewhere other monuments of Vlisses Laertes and their companions which are not properly to be referred unto Vlysses as the founder but wee must think that by the Greeks who discovered strange and forraine coasts they were dedicated in the honour of that Worthy who of all others had travelled and seene most Whereas John Tzetzes in his Treatise intituled Varietie of Stories hath written that our British Kings bestowed upon that renowned Cato the elder who had perpetuall conflict with the manners of the Roman people certaine presents for his vertues sake let him make good and save his owne credit himselfe yet thus much all the world knoweth how that Writer is full fraught with fables Neither would I have you believe that Alexander the Great came out of the East Indies to Gades and so forward to Britaine howsoever Cedrenus maugre all other Historiographers writeth thus 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is And from thence being come unto Phasis Gades and the British nation and having furnished himselfe with a thousand hulkes c. Of the same stampe is that also which Trithemius reporteth out of Hunnibald that King Bassianus put away his wife the King of the Orkneys daughter in the 284. yeare before the birth of Christ and thereupon he with the aid of the Britaines Kings made warre upon Bassianus Nor let any man thinke that Hanniball ever warred in Britaine because wee read thus in Polybius in the Eclogues of his tenth Booke 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Thus much in briefe now that Hanniball was enclosed within the streights of Britaine For the place is corrupt and for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 it should bee read 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as it is in Dio booke 42. For in both places there is a speech of the Brutii in Italie And yet I may not deny but that about this time the Greeks came to our Island For Atheraeus in describing out of Moschion a most ancient author that ship of Hiero at the hugenesse and workemanship whereof all men wondred reporteth that the maine mast thereof was with much adoe found by a certaine swineheard in the mountaines of Britaine and by Phileas Taurominites the Mechanick conveied into Sicilie But I feare lest the Criticks judge that the true reading here also should bee 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and likewise understand it of the Brutian mountaine in Italy But it seemeth that the Britaine 's were entermingled with the Cimbri and the Gaules in those expeditions which were made into Italy and Greece For besides the name common to them both it is recorded in a most ancient British Booke entituled Triadum wherein mention is made of three mightie hosts leavied from among the Britans That a certaine forrain captaine leavied a marvellous puissant army from hence which having wasted a great part of Europe at the last sat him downe and abode hard by the Greekish sea meaning perhaps Gallatia That Brennus a King so famous in Greek and Latine writers both was a Britan there be that thinke they can easily prove For mine owne part thus much onely I know that his name is not yet growne out of use with the Britans who in their language call a King Brennin whether in honorable memory of him I dare not determine Certes that Britomarus the militare captaine among them of whom
Consular or Proconsular deputy but was counted Praesidialis and appropriate to the Caesars as being a prouince annexed unto the Roman Empire after the division of Provinces ordained by Augustus and had Propretors of their owne Afterwards when as Constantinus Maximus had set downe a new forme of Common-weale under a Prefect or Provost of Pretors degree of Gaule there was set over it a vicegerent and together with him in matters of war the Count or Earle of Britan an Earle or Count of the Saxony coast by Britan and a Duke or Generall of Britan besides Presidents Auditors or Receivers such others Moreover out of those 29. Legions which the Romans had appointed through their Imperial government three of them lay in garrison to restraine that Province to wit the second Legion Augusta the sixt Legion victrix the twentith victrix But this is meant of the time of Severus For before we learn out of Authors that other Legions there were and more in number And although Strabo writeth that there was neede of no more than one band of souldiers to the keeping of Britaine in subjection yet in the raigne of Claudius there were placed here the second Legion Augusta the ninth Legion Hispaniensis the fourteenth named Gemina Martia victrix Yea and about the time of Vespasian Josephus sheweth that foure Legions served in this Island Britaine saith hee is compassed about with the Ocean and almost as big as our world The Romans there inhabiting have brought it under their dominion and foure Legions doe keepe in subjection an Island peopled with so great a multitude And doubtlesse the standing guards and Camps of Legions and Roman souldiers were many times the Seminaries as it were and Seed-plots of Cities and townes as in other provinces so also in this our Britan. Thus was the yoke of subjection laid upon the Britans first by a garrison of souldiers which alwaies with terror were ready to command the Inhabitants afterwards by tribute and imposts and in that respect forced they were to have Publicans that is to say greedy cormorants and horsleeches who sucked their bloud confiscated their goods and exacted tributes in the name of the dead Neither were they permitted to use the ancient lawes of their country but magistrates were sent from the people of Rome with absolute power and commission to minister justice even in capital matters For Provinces had Propretors Lieutenants Presidents Pretors and Proconsuls Every citie also and State had their municipall magistrates The Pretor proclaimed yearely solemne sessions and Assizes at which he determined the waightier causes sitting aloft upon a high Tribunall seat and guarded with his Lictors about him proudly executed he his jurisdiction rods and whipping cheere were presented to the backs the axe and heading to the necks of the common people and every yeare they were forced to receive one new ruler or other allotted unto them Neither was this sufficient they maintained discord and disscention among them some also they favoured among the rest that they might have them to be the instruments of this their servitude This yoak of the Romans although it were grievous yet comfortable it proved and a saving health unto them for that healthsome light of Iesus Christ shone withall upon the Britans whereof more hereafter and the brightnesse of that most glorious Empire chased away all savage barbarisme from the Britans minds like as from other nations whom it had subdued For Rome as saith Rutilius Legiferis mundum complexa triumphis Foedere communi vivere cuncta facit Compassed the world with triumphs bringing lawes And all to live in common league doth cause And in another place speaking unto the same Rome most truly and in right elegant verses Fecisti patriam diversis gentibus unam Profuit injustis te dominante capi Dumque offers victis proprii consortia juris Vrbem fecisti quod prius orbis erat Thou hast of divers nations one entire country framed Happy it was for lawlesse folke that they by thee were tamed For offering use to them subdu'd of thine owne proper lore One civill state rhou mad'st of that which was wild world before For to say nothing of the rest of the Provinces the Romans having brought over Colonies hither and reduced the naturall inhabitants of the Island unto the societie of civill life by training them up in the liberall Arts and by sending them into Gaule for to learne perfectly the lawes of the Romans whereupon Juvenal Gallia causidicos docui facunda Britannos Gaule eloquent of Britans hath good pleading lawyers made governed them with their lawes and framed them to good manners and behaviour so as in their diet and apparell they were not inferior to any other Provinces they furnished them also with goodly houses and stately buildings in such sort that the reliques and rubbish of their ruines doe cause the beholders now exceedingly to admire the same and the common sort of people doe plainely say these Roman workes were made by Giants whom in the North parts they use to call in their vulgar tongue Eatons for Heathens if I be not deceived or Ethnicks Certes they are works of exceeding great admiration and sumptuous magnificence but especially the Picts wall whereof I will write more in due place and those Causeies throughout the whole land a wonderfull piece of worke what with dreining and drying up the meres in some places and what with casting up banks where low vallies were in others so â—ensed and paved with stone and withall of that breadth that they can well receive and with roome enough waines meeting one the other Now what manner of Causeies these were let Gallene tel you The waies quoth he Trajanus repaired by paving with stone or raising with bankes cast up such pieces of them as were moist and myrie by stocking up and ridding such as were rough and overgrowne with bushes and briers by making bridges over rivers that could not bee waded through where the way seemed longer then needed by cutting out another shorter if any where by reason of some steepe hill the passage were hard and uneasie by turning it aside through easier places now in case it were haunted with wild beasts or lay wast and deâ—ert by drawing it from thence thoough places inhabited and withall by laying levell all uneven and rugged grounds But now adaies these of ours being dismembred as it were and cut one piece from another in some places by reason that the country people digge out gravell from thence and scarcely to bee seene yet elsewhere leading through pastures and by-grounds out of the rode way the bankes are so high that evidently they shew themselves These causeies or Street-waies the Romans called Vias Consulares Regias Praetorias Militares Publicas cursus publicos and Actus as it is to be seene in Ulpian and Julius Frontinus Ammianus Marcellinus termeth them Aggeres itinerarios publicos Sidonius Apollinaris Aggeres and Tellures
God was minded to purge his family and to recure it thus infected with so great corruption of sinnes by hearesay onely of tribulation the winged flight as one would say of an headlesse rumour pierceth the attentive eares of all men giving notice of ancient enemies ready to arrive and upon their comming fully minded to destroy them utterly and after their wonted manner to possesse and inhabite the countrey from one end to another Yet for all this were they never the better but like unto foolish and senselesse horses resisting the bridle of reason and refusing to admit the bit as they say into their close shut mouth leaving the way to salvation narrow though it were ran up and downe at randum all in the broad way of all wickednesse which leadeth directly and readily to death Whiles therefore as Salomon saith the obstinate and stubborne servant is not amended with words scourged hee is for a foole and feeleth not the whip For loe a pestilent contagion bringing much mortalitie falleth heavily upon the foolish people which in a short space when the enemies sword was gone destroied so great a multitude of them as that the living were not able to bury the dead Neither verily were they the better for it that the saying of Esay the Prophet might in them also bee fulfilled And God calleth them quoth he to sorrow and mourning to baldnesse and sackcloth but behold they fell to killing of calves to slaying of rams Lo they went to eating and drinking and said withall Let us eate and drinke for to morrow wee shall die And why the time drew neere wherein their iniquities like as those in times past of the Amorites should come to the fulnesse For they fall to consult what was the best and most convenient course to be taken for to represse so cruell and so many invasions of the forenamed nations with the booties which they raised Then all the Counsellors together with the proud tyrant become blinded and bewitched devising such a protection nay a destruction rather of their country as this namely that those most fierce Saxons a people foully infamous odious both to God and man should be let into this Island as one would say wolves into the sheep-folds to repulse forsooth and beat backe the Northern nations Than which I assure you nothing was ever devised and practised more pernicious nothing more unhappy unto this land O mist of sense and grossest understanding that ever was O desperate dulnesse and blind blockishnesse of mind Those whom in their absence they were inclined and given to dread more than very death now of their owne record these foolish Princes of Egypt entertained as I may say under the roofe of one house giving as hath beene said fond-foolish counsell unto Pharao Then rushed forth out of the barbarous Lionesses den a Kennell of whelps in three Vessels called in her language Cyulae that is Keeles and in our Latine tongue Longae naves under full saile carried with the wind of lucky sure presaging auguries whereby fore-prophesied it was unto them that for 300. yeares they should possesse and hold that land as their countrey unto which they directed their course and for an hundred and twentie that is the one moity of the said space oftentimes waste and depopulate the same These being put on shore first in the East-part of the Island and that by commandement of this infortunate tyrant set fast their terrible pawes and clawes there pretending unto the Islanders defence of their countrey but more truely intending the offence thereof unto which whelpes the foresaid dam the Lionesse finding that their first setting foote and marching forward sped well sends likewise a greater rabble of worrying freebooters which being arrived here in Flotes conjoyned themselves with the former misbegotten crew From hence it is that the shoot-grifts of iniquitie the root of bitternesse and virulent plants due to our deserts sprout and put forth in our soile proudly bud branch leafe Well these barbarous Saxons thus admitted into the Island obtaine allowance of victuals and wages as for douty souldiers and such as would endure hard service and much hazard for so they falsly beare men in hand in defence of their good hosts and friends for their kind entertainment Which being given unto them a long time stopped as wee say the dogs mouth Howbeit afterward they complaine that their monthly wages was not well paid them devising of purpose colourable occasions of quarrell protesting and threatning that unlesse they might feele more munificence powred and heaped upon them they would with the breach of covenant spoile and waste the whole Island throughout And without further delay they second these threats with very deeds for the cause of deserved revenge for precedent wickednesse was still nourished the fire kindled and set a flaming by these prophane men from sea to sea ceased not to consume all the cities and countreys bordering there about untill such time as burning well neere all the inland soile of the Island it licked up with a red flaming and terrible tongue all unto the westerne Ocean In this violent furious invasion comparable to that of the Assyrians in old time against Iuda is fulfilled also in us according to the historie that which the Prophet by way of sorrowfull lamentation uttereth They have burnt with fire thy Sanctuarie they have polluted in the Land the Tabernacle of thy name And againe O God the Gentiles are come into thine heritage they have defiled thy holy Temple c. In such wise as all the Colonies by the force of many engines and all the Inhabitants together with the Prelates of the Church both Priests and People by drawne sword glittering on every side and crackling flame of fire were at once laid along on the ground yea and that which was a piteous spectacle to behold in the midst of the streets the stone workes of turrets and high walles rent and torne in sunder from aloft the sacred altars and quarters of carcases covered with imbossed works of imagerie of a bloudy hue were seene all blended and mixed together as it were in a certaine horrible wine-presse neither was there any Sepulcher at all abroad save onely the ruins of buildings and the bowels of wild beasts and fowles When we shall read these reports let vs not be offended and displeased with good Gildas for his bitter invectives against either the vices of his owne countrey-men the Britans or the inhumane outrages of the barbarous enemies or the insatiable crueltie of our Fore-fathers the Saxons But since that for so many ages successively ensuing we are all now by a certaine engraffing or commixtion become one nation mollified and civilized with Religion and good Arts let us meditate and consider both what they were and also what wee ought to be lest that for our sinnes likewise the supreame Ruler of the world either translate other nations hither when wee are first rooted out
name For then begun they to rove upon the coasts of France and England and were by the writers that penned in Latine the histories of England named Winccingi for that they practised Piracie for Wiccinga in the Saxon tongue as Alfricus witnesseth doth signifie a Pirat that runneth from creek to creeke also Pagani that is Painims because as yet they were not become Christians but the Angles themselves in their language termed them Deniscan and often times Heathon-mâ—n as one would say Ethnicks Of these Danes listen to Dudo of Saint Quintins an author of good antiquitie out of the Librarie of John Stow that most studious Antiquarie of the Citie of London which was never shut from me The Danes swarmed from out of Scanza that is Scandia like bees out of an hive in manifold diuersitie and barbarous manner after they had in heat lascivious lust and wantonnesse engendred an innumerable of-spring Who after they were growne to ripenesse of yeares falling to hot contention for goods and lands with their fathers and grand-fathers yea and often times among themselves when they once overflowed and grew so populous that they could have no roome sufficient for to inhabite in the place wherein they presently dwelt having gathered together by lot a multitude of youth and springals after a most ancient custome were thrust out into forraine Realmes to conquer unto themselves lands by dint of sword wherein they might live But in the full performance of dicharging those that should be thus sent out and in mustering up their armies they sacrificed unto THVR whom they worshipped in old time as their Lord for whom they killed not any sheepe oxen or other cattell but offered mens bloud Thinking that to be the most precious holocaust and sacrifice of all others because when the Priest by casting lots had predestinated who should die they were all at once deadly smitten upon the head with oxe yokes and when every one that was chosen by lot had his braines dashed out at one severall stroke laid along hee was on the ground and sought out there was with narrow prying the fibre that is to say the veine of the heart on the left side and having after their manner drawne out the bloud thereof and stricken it upon the heads of their friends speedily they hoise up sailes and thinking that they please their God with such an act they immediatly put to Sea and fall to their ores Moreover there is another manner or rather a most foule and detestable superstition which the Danes used in pacifying their Gods and this doth Ditmarus the Bishop who was of greater antiquitie somewhat than Dudo in these words describe But because I have heard strange and wonderfull things of the ancient Sacrifices that the Danes and Normans used I will not over passe the same There is in these parts a place and the chiefe it is of this kindome called Lederum in a province named Selon where every ninth yeare in the moneth of Januarie after the time in which we celebrate the Nativitie of our Lord they all assemble together and there they kill and sacrifice unto their Gods ninetie and nine men and as many horses with dogs and cocks for the hauks which the Gods sent them certainly perswading themselves as I said before that by the same they should please them About the time of Egbert in the yeare of Christ 800. they first landed on our sea-coasts afterwards with such tumults and hurliburlies as never the like was heard of having for many yeares made foule havock over all England razing cities firing Churches and wasting countries they let out the raines loose to all barbarous crueltie driving harrying spoyling and turning all upside downe where ever they went Thus after they had killed the Kings of the Mercians East-Angles seazed upoÌ„ their Kingdomes with a great part of the Kingdome of Northumberland Then was there a tribute called Dangelt imposed upon the poore people for the repressing of their robberies and outrages and that you may know what manner of imposition this was I would have you to reade these few lines copied out of our ancient Lawes The paiment of Dangelt was at the first ordained for Pirats For by sore annoying the countrey they went on and did what they could to waste it utterly And verily to keepe downe their insolencie it was enacted that Dangelt should yearely be paid that is twelve pence out of every hide of land throughout the whole country for to hire and wage those that might resist and withstand their invasion Also of this Dangelt was every Church freed and quit as also all lands that were in the proper Demesies of those Churches wheresoever they lay paying nothing at all in such a contribution as this because they trusted more in the prayers of the Church than in their defence by force of armes But when as now they assaile and set upon Aelfred King of the West-Saxons he one while by retiring and giving them ground otherwhiles by preassing hard upon them with his victorious forces not only did put them back from his owne country but also having slaine a Danish-petty-king of the Mercians expelled them in manner quite out of all Mercia and his sonne Edward the elder following in traine of his fathers victories when he had put the Danes to flight brought East England to his subjection like as Adelstane his base sonne speedily marching to atchieve victories with great slaughter of the Danes subdued Northumberland and so terribly pursued the Danes that they were forced either to depart the realme or to submit themselves unto him By the valorous prowesse of these Princes England recovered out of the whirlepit of calamities and rested from that bloody warre by the space of 50. yeares But while Etheldred a man of a dull and soft spirit raigned the Danes taking advantage of his cowardise strooke up alarme and sounded the battaile againe and having wasted the country constrained the Englishmen to redeeme their peace yearely with a great sum of monie and so insolently they bare themselves that the Englishmen conspired generally together and in one night murdred all the Danes every mothers sonne of them throughout all England thinking by the effusion of bloud to quench the fire of Danish warre which brake out neverthelesse into a more pernicious flame For Sueno King of the Danes provoked with this slaughter of his people invaded England with a puissant armie and having in a furious and enraged mood made much spoile he put Etheldred to flight subdued the whole Kingdome and left the same unto his sonne Canutus who having encountred in many cruell and sharpe battailes and those with variable fortune fought with Etheldred now returned and his sonne Edmund surnamed Iron-side had two of his sonnes succeeded after him to wit Harald a bastard and Canutus the Hardie After they were dead and the Danish yoke shaken off the Kingdome fell
place called Tibury hill and containeth a square field by estimation of ten acres ditched about in some places deeper than other wherein hath beene found tokens of Wells and about which the ploughmen have found squared stones and Roman coines as they report for the place I have not seene This brooke entreth into Test neere Worwhell where Queene Aelfrith built a Monasterie to expiate and make satisfaction for that most foule and heinous fact wherewith so wickedly she had charged her soule by making away King Edward her husbands son as also to wash out the murthering of her former husband Aethelwold a most noble Earle whom King Edgar trained forth hither a hunting and then strake him through with a dart because hee had deluded him in his love secrets and by deceitfull and naughtie meanes prevented him and gotten for himself this same Aelfrith the most beautifull Lady that was in those daies After this Test having taken into it a little river from Wallop or more truly Well-hop that is by interpretation out of our forefathers ancient language A prety well in the side of an hill whereof that right worshipfull familie of the Wallops of Knights degree dwelling hard by tooke name seeketh for BRIGE or BRAGE an ancient towne likewise placed by Antonine nine miles from Sorbiodunum at which distance betweene Salisburie and Winchester he findeth not farre from his banke Broughton a small country towne which if it were not that BRAGE I verily believe it was then utterly destroyed when William of Normandie laid all even with the ground heere abouts to make that forrest before mentioned Then goeth this river to see Rumsey in Saxon speech Rum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 A nunnery founded by King Edgar the large Church whereof yet standeth out of the which Mary daughter of King Stephen being there Abbesse and his only heire surviving was conveied secretly by Mathew of Alsace sonne to the Earle of Flanders and to him married But after she had borne to him two daughters was enforced by sentence of the Church to returne hither again according to her vow Thence glideth this water straight into Anton Haven at Arundinis Vadum as Bede called it and interpreteth it himselfe Reedeford but now of the bridge where the foard was named for Redeford Sedbridge where at the first springing up of the English Saxon Church there flourished a Monasterie the Abbat whereof Cymbreth as Bede writeth baptized the two brethren being very little ones of Arvandus the pettie King of Wight even as they were ready to be put to death For when Cedwalla the Saxon set upon the Isle of Wight these small children to save their lives fled to a little town called Ad lapidem and hid themselves there untill at length being betraied they were at Cedwallaes commandement killed If you aske mee what this little towne Ad lapidem should bee I would say it were Stonâ—ham a small village next to Redebridge which the very signification of the name may evidently prove for mee The other river that runneth forth at the East-side of Southhampton may seeme to have beene called Alre For the mercate towne standing upon the banke thereof not farre from ponds out of which it issueth is called Alres-ford that is The foard of Alre This towne to use the words of an old Record of Winchester Kinewalce the religious King instructed in the Sacraments of faith by the Bishop Birinus at the very beginning of Christian religion in this tract with great devotion of heart gave unto the Church of God at Wenta In the yeare of grace 1220. Godfrey Lucy Bishop of Winchester made a new market place heere and called it Novum forum that is New mercate in regard haply of old Alres-ford adjoyning thereto But this new aime continued not long with the people who in the matter of speech carry the greatest stroke Neere heereunto is Tichburne which I must not omit for that it hath given name to a worshipfull and ancient familie Vpon the West banke of this river is scituate the most famous Citie of the British Belgians called by Ptolomee and Antoninus Venta Belgarum by the Britaine 's of Wales even at this day Caer Gwent by the Saxons in old time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Latine commonly Wintonia and by us in these daies of Winchester Yet there bee some which affirme this to be Venta Simenorum and do grace Bristow with the name of Venta Belgarum But that there were never any Simeni at all in this Island I will prove when I come to the Iceni In the meane season though they should seeke all the townes that Antoninus placeth on every side in the way to or from VENTA BELGARVM as narrowly as Emmots paths yet shall they find nothing for their purpose to make good this their assertion The Etymologie of this name Venta some fetch from Ventus that is Wind others from Vinum that is Wine and some againe from Wina a Bishop who all of them be farre wide and should doe well to pray for better judgement Yet like I rather the opinion of Leland who hath derived it from the British word Guin or Guen that is White so that Caer Guin should signifie as much as the White Citie And why not seing the old Latines named these their Cities Alba longa and Alba regia of whitenesse yea and the Grecians also had their Leuca Leucas and other nations also many places taking name of whitenesse For this Venta like as the other two of the same name to wit VENTA SILVRVM and VENTA ICENORVM are seated all three in a soile that standeth upon chalke and a whitish clay A Citie it was no doubt flourishing even in the Romans times as in which the Emperours of Rome seeme to have had their sacred of houses weaving and embroidering peculiar to their owne persons and uses seeing among all the VENTAS in Britaine it was both the chiefe and also nearest unto Italie For in the booke of Notitiae mention is made of the Procurator Master or Governour Cynegii VENTENSIS or BENTENSIS in Britaine where the onely flowre of Lawyers Iames Cujacius readeth Cynaecii and in his Paratitles upon the Code interpreteth it Sacrum textrinum that is The sacred workhouse or shop of embroidering and weaving And right of his mind is Guidus Pancirolus who writeth that those Gynaecia were instituted for the weaving of the Princes and souldiers garments of Ship-sailes of linnen sheetes or covering and such like cloaths necessarie for the furniture of mansions But Wolfangus Lazius was of opinion that that the Procurator aforesaid had the charge heere of the Emperours dogs And to say truth of all the dogs in Europe ours beare the name in so much as Strabo witnesseth our dogges served as souldiers and the ancient Galles made speciall use of them even in their wars And of all others they were in most request both for those baitings in the Amphitheaters and also in all
runs a long tract or chaine of hils yeilding plentie of pasture and forrage for sheepe The wool of which next unto that of Lemster and Coteswold is estemed best and in speciall request with Clothiers whereby there groweth to the Inhabitants much gaine and profit The North part is all over greene with meddows pastures and woods the South side lieth wholly in manner bedecked with cornefields enclosed where at each end the sea on the North-side doth so inbosome encroach within it selfe that it maketh almost two Islands and verily so the Islanders call them namely Fresh-water Isle which looketh West and Binbrige Isle Eastward In Bedas daies it was counted to containe a thousand and two hundred Hides now it reckoneth upon 36. townes villages and Castles which for Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction belong to the Bishop of Winchester and for civill government to the County of South-hanton The Inhabitants of this Isle were wont merrily to make their boast that their case was happier than all others because they had neither hooded monks nor cavilling Lawyers nor yet crafty foxes The places of greater name be these Newport the principall mercate towne of the whole Isle called in times past Medena and Novus Burgus de Meden that is The new Burgh of Meden whereof the whole country is divided into East Meden and West Meden an ordering as to their scituation East or West either way Cacres-brooke an old Castle so clepid and clipped short for White garesburg is in the very heart and midst of the Isle taking the name of Whitgar the Saxon of whom more heereafter and of late magnificently reedified by the meanes of the Captaine unto which Castle there belonged very many Knights Fees and above all other places it hath heere the glory for antiquitie Brading another mercate Towne Newton and Yarmouth anciently called Eremue which have their Majors and send Burgesses to the Parliament This Yarmouth and Sharpâ—ore have Castles in them which together with Worsleys fort or Blockehouse so named of a worshipfull familie defend the Sea-shore at the Northwest Just over against it scarcely two miles off standeth Hurst a fortification of South-Hamptonshire scituate upon a little necke of land lying into the Sea Quarre where was founded a Nunnerie in the yeare of our Lord 1131 Gods-Hill in which Iohn Worsley erected a Schoole for the training up of young wits West-Cowe and East-Cowe that is now ruinous both which King Henry the Eighth built at the very entrie of New port and concerning them Leland wrote in this wise Covae fulmineae duae coruscant Haec casum colit ille Solis ortum Vectam quà Neoportus intrat altam Two Cowes full opposite there stand At West and East in all mens sight Then flashen fire from either hand Where Newport entreth Isle of Wight Also on the North-East side Sandham Castle furnished as the rest with great ordnance Neither are there wanting for the defence of this Isle naturall fences For encircled it is with a continuall ridge and raunge as it were of craggy clifts there are under the waters likewise hidden stones and every where there lie against it bankes and rockes perilous for sailers but the most dangerous of all the rest are the Needles so called because they are so sharpe and the Shingles which stand forth against the West angle of the Isle as also the Owers and Mixon that lie before the East Besides these The Brambles which are Shelves and perilous for Sailers in the North-coast Moreover if there be any place that seemeth open and meete for a landing place the same by an old order and custome among them is piled with strong stakes driven and pitched deepe into the ground But verily this Isle is neither with these rockes nor with those fortresses above said so well fenced as with the very Inhabitants themselves who naturally being most warlike bold and adventurous are through the diligence and care of the Captaine of the Isle confirmed so by continuall exercise in strength and militarie discipline that they exactly know before hand what accidents of service soever may happen in warre namely with their peeces to shoot point-blanke and not misse the marke to keepe their rankes to march orderly and in ray to cast their squadrons if need be close into a ring or to display and spred the same at large to take paines to runne and ride to endure both Sunne and dust and fully to performe whatsoever warfarre doth require Of these souldiers thus trained the Isle it selfe is able to bring forth into the field 4000. and at the instant of all assaies appointed there bee three thousand more of most expert and practised servitours out of Hampshire and two thousand beside out of Wilshire to bee ever prest and in readinesse for the defence of the Isle And to the end that all hostile forces whatsoever might bee withstood more speedily and with greater facilitie the whole countrey is divided into eleven parts and every of them hath their severall Centoner as one would say Centurion their Vintons also leaders as it were of twenty their great pieces of Ordnance their Sentinels and warders Who keepe watch and ward at the Beacons standing on the higher grounds their Posts also or runners whom by an old name growne almost out of use they terme still Hoblers who presently give intelligence of all occurrents to the Captaine and Governour of the Isle The first that brought it in subjection to the Romans was Vespatian whiles he served as a private person under Claudius Caesar For thus writeth Suetonius of him Vnder the Emperour Claudius by speciall favour of Narcissus he was sent into Germanie as Lieutenant of a Legion and from thence being remooved into Britaine he fought thirtie battailes with the enemie Two most mightie nations and above twentie townes together with the Isle of Wight lying next to the said Britaine hee subdued under the conduct partly of A. Plautius a Consular Lieutenant and in part of Claudius himselfe For which service he received triumphall ornaments and in short space two sacerdotall dignities c. At this Isle also the navie of Allectus after he had usurped the Imperiall dignitie in Britaine lying in espiall and ambush awaited the Romans comming against him who notwithstanding by the happy meanes of a mist passed by their enemies undescried gat to land and set fire on their owne ships that there might bee no refuge for them to escape unto by flight Lord Cerdic was the first English-Saxon that subdued it and he granted it unto Stuffa and Whitgar who joyntly togither slew well-neare all the British Inhabitants for few there were of them remaining in Whitgaraburge a towne so called of his name and now by contraction shortned into Caresbroke After Wolpher King of the Mercians reduced the Isle of Wight under his obedience and assigned it over to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons together with the province of the Menvari what time as hee became his Godfather and
and worth the noting it is there is a vaine of potters earth highly commended and therefore the dearer sold for the making of those crucibles and small vessels which Gold-smiths use in melting their gold Nor farre from hence the cleare rivelet Wandle in Latin Vandalis so full of the best Trouts issueth forth from his head neare Cashalton and Wodcot where by a tuft of trees upon an hill-top there are to bee seene manifest signes of a pretty towne and diverse wels built of flint stones Concerning the populousnesse and wealth whereof the neighbour Inhabitants report very much This in my conceit was that Citie which Ptolomee called NOIOMAGVS and the Emperour Antonine NOVIOMAGVS Neither neede wee to seeke from else where proofe heereof but from the correspondencie of distance For as the old Itinerary noteth it is ten miles from London and twenty eight from Vagmiacj now Maidston Many a mile therefore went they out of the way that placed Noviomagus either at Buckingham or at Guildford This was a principall Citie of the REGNI not knowne to Marinus Tyrius a most ancient Geographer whom Ptolomee taking upon him to censure taxeth for that he had set NOVIOMAGVS of Britaine by Climate more North and by account of miles more South than London Wandle while it is yet small receiveth his first increase by a rill springing at Croidon in times past called Cradiden which standeth under the hils is very well known as well for the house of the Archbishops of Canterbury unto whom it hath belonged now this long time as for Char-coles which the townesmen make good chaffer of The inhabitants report that in old time there stood an house of the Kings in the West part of the towne neere unto Haling where the husbandmen dig up otherwhiles rubble stone which house the Archbishops having received it by gift from the King translated unto their owne neerer the river And neere unto this the right reverend father in God D. Iohn Whitgift Archbishop of Canterbury of most praise worthy Memory in his pious affection founded and endowed with living a very faire Hospitall for the reliefe of poore people and a schoole for the furtherance of learning As for that sudden swelling water or Bourne which the common people report to breake forth heere out of the ground presaging I wote not how either dearth of corne or the pestilence may seeme not worthy once the naming and yet the events sometime ensuing hath procured it credit Neere unto this place stands Beddington wherein is to be seene a very faire house beautified with a delightfull shew of right pleasant gardens and orchards by Sir Francis Carew Knight For the ancient seat it is of the Carews who being descended from the Carews of Moulesford of whom also are come the Carews of Devonshire have for a long time flourished in this country but especially since Sir Iames Carew matched in marriage with the daughter and one of the coheires of the Baron Hoo and Hastings To digresse a little from the river Eastward from Croidon standeth Addington now the habitation of Sir Oliff Leigh wherby is to be seene the ruble of a Castle of Sir Robert Agvilon and from him of the Lords Bardolph who held certaine lands here in fee by Serianty to find in the Kings kitchin at the Coronation one to make a dainty dish which they called Mapigernoun and Dilgerunt What that was I leave to the skilfull in ancient Cookerie and returne to the river Wandle increased with Croidon water passing by Morden divideth it selfe to water Merton in the old English tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 situate in a most fruitfull soile A towne made famous in times past by the death of Kinulph King of the West Saxons who was by a Clito that is a Prince of the bloud slaine here in a small cottage of an harlot upon whom hee was enamoured and Clito himself by K. Kinulphs followers immediately stabbed suffered condigne punishment for his disloyall treachery Now it sheweth onely the ruines of a Monastery that K. Henry the First founded for blacke Chanons by the procurement of Gilbert High Sheriffe of Surry in the yeare 1127. which was famous for the Statute of Merton enacted here in the 21. of King Henrie the Third and also for Water de Merton founder of Merton Colledge in Oxford borne and bred heere Above Merton farther from the river is seated Wibandune now commonly Wimbledon where when over much prosperitie had hatched civill broiles among the English Saxons after the British warres were now ceased Ethelbert King of Kent struck up the first Alarme of civill warre against his owne country men but Ceaulin King of the West Saxons discomfited him in this place with a mightie great slaughter and losse of his men having slaine his principall leaders Oslan and Kneben of whom peradventure that entrenched rampier or fort which wee have heere seene of a round forme is called Bensbury for But now the greatest ornament of this place is that goodly house so beautifull for building and so delectable for faire prospect and right pleasant gardens which Sir Thomas Cecill Knight sonne to that most prudent Counsellour of State Lord Burleygh built in the yeare 1588. when the Spanish Armado made saile upon the coast of England Wandle now after a few miles entreth the Tamis when it hath given name to Wandlesworth betweene Putney the native soile of Thomas Cromwell one of the flowting-stocks of fortune and Batersey sometimes in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in latine Patricii Insula that is Patrickes Isle and which now we seeke an house of the Kings termed Kennington whereunto the Kings of England in old time were wont to retire themselves but now finde wee neither the name nor the rammell thereof Then is there Lambith or Lomehith that is to say a Lomy or clayish rode or hith famous in former times for the death of Canutus the Hardie King of England who there amid his cups yielded up his vitall breath For hee beeing given wholly to banqueting and feasting caused royall dinners foure times every day as Henry of Huntingdon reporteth to be served up for all his court choosing rather to have his invited guests to send away whole dishes untouched than other commers unbidden to call for more viands to be upon his table But now this place is of the greater name and more frequented by reason of the Archbishop of Canterburie his palace For Baldwine Archbishop of Canterbury about the yeare of Christ 1183. having made an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester purchased a manour in this place wherein hee began to build a palace for himselfe and his successours which they by little and little encreased But when they went about to erect a collegiat Church heere also good GOD what posting was there to Rome with complaints and appeales from the Monkes of Canterburie how many fiery thunderbolts
tooke to wife the onely daughter of the Baron Sands dwelt while he lived in a very faire house and on the other Chesham Bois where and at Draiton Beauchamp the Family of Cheneis hath anciently flourished From hence I passed scarse three miles North-ward but I came to the ridge of Chilturne-hils which divideth the whole region a crosse from the South-west to the North-east passing by many villages and small townes among which that of greatest note is Hamden which gave name to an ancient and well spred Family in these parts In the very East corner of these hils Ashridge a retiring house sometime of the kings standeth upon an ascent where Edmund Earle of Cornewall sonne to Richard king of the Romans founded a religious house for a new Order of religious men in those daies called Bon Hommes by him first brought into England Who professed the rule of S. Augustine and were according to the manner of the Order of the Eremitans clad in skie coloured garments From this ridge or edge of the Hils there is a large prospect every way downe into the Vale beneath which I said was the other part of the Shire This almost throughout is a plaine Champion standing likewise upon a clay-soile stiffe tough and fruitfull with pasture medowes most plentifull of grasse and fodder feeding innumerable flockes of sheepe whose soft and passing fine fleeces are in request even as farre as to the Turkish Nations in Asia But it is all naked and bare of woods unlesse it bee on the West side where among others is Bernewood whose Forresters surnamed de Borstall were famous in former times About this Forrest the yeare after Christs Nativity 914. the Danes furiously raged and then happily it was that the ancient Burgh was destroied whose antiquity Romane coined peeces of money there found doe testifie which afterwards became the royall house of King Edward the Confessour But now it is a Country Village and in stead of Buri-Hill they call it short Brill In this Vale although it be exceeding full of Townes and Villages yet very few of them are memorable and those either upon the River Tame or Vsa that is Ouse Not far from Tame which watereth the South part of the Vale upon the rising of a prety hill standeth a faire Mercat Towne well occupied and compassed about with many most pleasant greene medowes and pastures commonly called Ailesbury of which the whole Vale is termed the Vale of Ailesbury The Engish-Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 when Cuthwulf the Saxon won it in the yeare of our Lord 572. For the Brittish name whereby it was knowne before in continuance of time is utterly lost Famous it hath beene in times past especially for Ediths sake there fostered who having obtained of her Father â—rewald this Towne for her Dowry forthwith by persuasion of the religious people bad the world and her husband farewell and taking her selfe to the Vale for opinion of holinesse and devotion in that most pregnant and fruitfull age of Saints became wonderfully renowned even as farre as to working of miracles together with her sister Eadburg of whose name there is a little Towne among the Hils as yet called Eadburton In the time of King William the Conquerour it was a Manour of the Kings and certaine yard-lands were here given by the King with this condition that the Possessour or Holder thereof marke ye nice and dainty ones should finde 〈◊〉 for the Kings bed when the King came thither In the Raigne of Edward the First certaine Gentlemen named de Ailesbury who bare for their Armes Aâ—ure a Crosse Argent were by report but I know not how truely the Lords thereof certaine it is they were in those daies men of the better sort and of great good note and such as by marriage with the daughter and heire of the Caihaignes who were in times past Lords of Meddleton Caihaignes came to a faire and goodly inheritance which at last by heires generall came to the Chaworths the Staffords of Graâ—ton c. But now the greatest name and reputation that it hath is by grazing and feeding of Cattaile Very much beholden also it is unto Justice Baldwin who not onely adorned it with publique aedifices but also made a passing faire causey to it where the way was very deepe and cumbersome for three miles or thereabout in length Heere round about in every side flockes of sheepe pasture most plenteously in mighty numbers loden with fleeces to the great gaine and commodity of their Masters especially at Quarendon a Lordship belonging to Sir Henry Lee an honourable Knight of the Order of the Garter Eythorp which sometime was the Dinhams and now the Dormâ—â—s Knights and also Winchindon appertaining to the Family of the Godwins Knights likewise c. Lower wee meet with nothing memorable upon Tame unlesse Cheardesley be as many thinke it is the place which was called in the Saxon-tongue Cerdick-flega of Cerdic the Saxon who fought a very sharpe and bloudy battaile there with the Britans Neere unto it standeth Credendon now Crendon which was the Capitall house belonging to the Honour of Giffard for so were those lands termed which fell unto Walter Giffard at the Conquest of England whose sonne the second Earle of Buckingham and Ermingard his wife built the Abbay of Noteley thereby in the yeare 1112. But his cozen Hugh de Bolebec from whom by the females the Earles of Oxford are descended held of him no small possessions in these parts And the ruines of Bolebec Castle are seene hard by within the Parish of Whitchurch Neere unto which is Ascot the principall Mansion house of the Dormers from whence descended the Dutches of Feria in Spaine and others of noble note Usa or Ouse in times past Isa and the second Isis which with a soft and still streame passeth through the North part of this Province arising in Northampton-shire and presently from his head when being yet but small he closely entereth into this Shire runneth beside Bittlesden which Robert de Mapertshall Lord of the place gave unto Osbert de Clinton Chamberlaine to King Henry the First a powerfull Courtier that he might not be punished as a Fellon for stealing away one of the Kings Hounds But he restored it unto him againe with a cozin of his in marriage yet lost he the same in the hot broile of the civill war under King Stephen and Ernald Bois by way of a benefit and courtesie received it at the hands of Robert Earle of Leicester And hee in the yeare of Christ 1127. founded there a little Monastery for the Cistertien Monks Then Ouse saluteth Buckingham the Shire Towne which as Marian saith King Edward the elder in the yeare of our Lord 915. fortified with a Rampire and Sconces on both bankes against the Invasions and assaults of the Danes Yet was it of no great name as it may seeme in the
for that among other matters hee had consulted with a Wizard about succession of the Crowne was beheaded a noble man exceeding much missed and lamented of good men Which when the Emperour Charles the fifth heard he said as it is written in his life That a Butchers dogge had devoured the fairest Bucke in all England alluding to the name Buckingham and the said Cardinall who was a Butchers sonne Ever since which time the splendour of this most noble family hath so decaied and faded that there remaineth to their posterity the bare title onely of Barons of Stafford whereas they were stiled before Dukes of Buckingham Earles of Stafford Hereford Northampton and Perth Lords of Brecknock Kimbalton and Tunbridge There are reckoned in this small Shire Parishes 185. BEDFORD Comitatus olim pars CATHIFVCLANORVM BEDFORD-SHIRE BEDFORD-SHIRE is one of the three Counties which we said the Cattieuchlani inhabited On the East-side and the South it joyneth to Cambridge-shire and Hertford-shire on the West to Buckingham-shire and on the North to Northamton-shire and Huntingdon-shire and by the river OVSE crossing over it is divided into two parts The North-side thereof is the more fruitâ—ull of the twaine and more woody the other toward the South which is the greater standeth upon a leaner soile but not altogether unfertile For it yeeldeth foorth aboundantly full white and bigge Barley In the mids it is somewhat thicke of woods but Eastward more drie ground and bare of wood Ouse where it entereth into this shire first visiteth Turvy the Lord Mordants house who are beholden to King Henry the Eighth for their Barony For he created Iohn Mordant a wise and prudent man who had wedded the daughter and one of the coheires of H. Vere of Addington Baron Mordant then runneth it by Harwood a Village in old time called Hareleswood where Sampson surnamed Fortis founded a Nunnery and where in the yeere of our redemption 1399. a little before those troubles and civill broiles wherewith England a long time was rent in peeces this river stood still and by reason that the waters gave backe on both sides men might passe on foote within the very chanell for three miles together not without wondering of all that saw it who tooke it as a plaine presage of the division ensuing Afterward it passeth by Odill or Woodhill sometimes Wahull which had his Lords surnamed also De Wahul men of ancient Nobility whose Barony consisted of thirty knights fees in divers countries and had here their Castle which is now hereditarily descended to Sir R. Chetwood knight as the inheritance of the Chetwoods came formerly to the Wahuls From hence Ouse no lesse full of crooked crankes and windings than Maeander it selfe goeth by Bletnesho commonly called Bletso the residence in times past of the Pateshuls after of the Beauchamps and now of the Honourable family of S. Iohn which long since by their valour attained unto very large and goodly possessions in Glamorgan-shire and in our daies through the favor of Q. Elizabeth of happy memory unto the dignity of Barons when she created Sir Oliver the second Baron of her creation Lord S. Iohn of Bletnesho unto whom it came by Margaret Beauchamp an inheritrice wedded first to Sir Oliver S. Iohn from whose these Barons derive their pedigree and secondly to Iohn Duke of Somerset unto whom she bare the Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmond a Lady most vertuous and alwaies to be remembred with praises from whose loines the late Kings and Queenes of England are descended From hence Ouse hastneth by Brumham a seat of the Dives of very ancient parentage in these parts to Bedford in the Saxon-tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the principall towne and whereof the Shire also taketh name and cutteth it so through the middest that it might seeme to be two severall townes but that a stone bridge joyneth them together A towne to be commended more for the pleasant situation and ancientry thereof then for beauty or largenesse although a man may tell five Churches in it That it was Antonines LACTODORVM I dare not as others doe affirme considering that it standeth not upon the Romans Military road way which is the most certaine marke to finde out the station and Mansions mentioned by Antonine neither are there heere any peeces of Romane money ever digged up as far as I can learne I have read that in the Brittish tongue it was named Liswidur or Lettidur but it may seeme to have been translated so out of the English name For Lettuy in the British language signifieth Common Innes and so Lettidur Innes upon a river like Bedford in English Beds or Innes at a fourd Cuthwulf the Saxon about the yeere of our salvation 572. beneath this towne so vanquished the Britans in an open pitch field that then presently upon it finding themselves over-matched yeelded up many townes into his hands Neither should it seeme that the Saxons neglected it For Offa the most puissant King of the Mercians choose heere as we read in Florilegus for himselfe a place of sepulture whose tombe the river Ouse swelling upon a time and carrying a more violent and swifter streame than ordinary in a floud swouped cleane away Afterwards also when it was rased downe and lay along by occasion of the Danish depredations K. Edward the Elder repaired it and laid unto it upon the South-side of the river a prety townlet which in that age as we finde in the best copy of Hovedon was called Mikesgat In the time of King Edward the Confessor as we read in that booke which King William the Conqueror caused to be written when he tooke the survey of England It defended it selfe for halfe an Hundred in wars expeditions and shipping The land belonging to this towne was never bided After this it suffered far more grievous calamities under the Normans For when Pain de Beauchamp the third Baron of Bedford had built heere a Castle there arose not any storme of civill war but it thundred upon it so long as it stood Stephen when with breach of his oath he intercepted to himselfe the Kingdome of England first forced this Castle and with very great slaughter of men won it afterwards when the Barons had taken armes against King Iohn William de Beauchamp Lord thereof and one of the Captaines of their side surrendred it unto their hands But a yeere or two after Falco de Breaut laid siege thereto and forthwith the Barons yeelded and the King in free gift bestowed it upon him Yet the unthankefull man raised up a world of warre againe upon King Henry the third He pulled downe Churches to strengthen this Castle and exceedingly damnified the territory adjoyning untill the King besieged it and when after threescore daies he had quelled the stubborne stomackes of these rebels brought this nest and nourse of sedition into his owne hands It will not be I hope distastfull to the reader if I set
the neighbour Inhabitants in small or no stead untill being brought of late unto his ancient Chanell it is become more commodious for the carriages of all commodities c. Lea is not gone forward farre from Ware when he entertaineth a Riveret named Stort from the East which first runneth downe out of Essex by Bishops Stortford a small Towne fensed sometime with a little Castle set upon a mount cast up of purpose within a prety Island which Castle King William the Conquerour gave unto the Bishops of London and of those Bishops it came to be so called but King John for hatred to Bishop William overthrew it From thence it maketh his way by Sabridgworth a parcell of the Honor of Earle William Mandevile and sometime the possession of Geffrey Say neere Shingle-hall honested by the Owners the Leventhorpes of ancient Gentry So on not farre from Honsdon forfeited by Sir William Oldhall to the Crowne in the time of King Henry the Sixth which gave a Title of Baron Hunsdon to Sir Henry Cary through the favour of Queene Elizabeth unto whom he was Lord Chamberlaine as who verily besides his descent from the royall Family of the Dukes of Somerset was by his mother Mary Bolen cozen german to the said Queene Lea having thus admitted into him this Riveret hasteneth now with a merry glee to the Tamis under Hodesdon a faire through Faire to which H. Bourchier Earle of Essex having a faire house at Base thereby while it stood procured a Mercat and then as it were in gratulatory wise saluteth Theobalds commonly called Tibaulds which our Nestor of Britaine the right honourable Baron Burghley late Lord high Treasurer of England built an house if we respect the workmanship none more faire and elegant if the gardens Orchards and walkes bedight with Groves none more pleasant unto whom especially this River willingly acknowledgeth it selfe beholden for the recovery againe of his ancient Chanell But returne we now to places more within the Country and of greater antiquity From Hertford twelve miles Westward stood VEROLAMIUM a City in times past very much renowned and as greatly frequented Tacitus calleth it VERULAMIUM Ptolomee UROLANIUM and VEROLAMIUM well knowne this is in these dayes neere unto Saint Albans in Caisho Hundred which the CASSII of whom Caesar maketh mention in all probability held and inhabited The Saxons named it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the famous High-way Watlingstreet and also 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Neither hath it as yet lost that ancient name for commonly they call it Verulam although there remaineth nothing of it to bee seene beside the few remaines of ruined walles the checkered pavements and peeces of Roman Coine other whiles digged up there It was situate upon the gentle descent or side of an hill Eastward fenced about with passing strong wals a double Rampire and deepe Trenches toward the South and Eastward watered with a Brooke which in old time made a great Meere or standing Poole Whereby it was guessed that this was the very same towne of Cassibelaunus fortified with woods and marishes which Caesar wan For there was not to be seene any other Poole or Meere in this Tract to my knowledge In Nero his time it was counted a MUNICIPIUM whence it is that in Ninius his Catalogue of Cities it is named Caer-Municip So that probable it is that this was the very same CAER MUNICIPIUM which Hubert Golizius found in an old Inscription These Municipia were Townes endowed with the right of Romane Citizens and this name came A Muneribus capiendis that is of publique Offices and charges in the Common-wealth and they had for their States and Degrees * Decurions that is Gentlemen and Commons for their publique Councell a Senate and People For their Magistrates and Priests Duum-virj Trium-virj to sit in judgement and minister justice CENSORS AEDILES Quaestors and Flamins But whether this Municipium or towne enfranchised were with suffrages or without a man cannot easily affirme A Municip with suffrages they tearmed that which was capable of honourable Offices like as that other they called without suffrage which was not capable In the Raigne of the same Nero when Bunduica or Boadicia Queene of the Icenes in her deepe love of her Country and conceived bitter hatred against the Romanes raised bloudy and mortall Warre upon them it was rased and destroied by the Britans as Tacitus recordeth Hence it is that Suetonius wrote thus To these mischiefes so great proceeding from the Prince there happened to mend the matter a grievous losse in Britaine wherein two principall Towres of great importance with much slaughter of Romane Citizens and Allies were put to the sacke and spoiled Neverthelesse it flourished againe and became exceeding famous and passing well frequented yea and I have seene old Antiquities of money stamped as it seemeth heere with this inscription TASCIA and on the reverse VER Which that learned searcher of venerable antiquity David Powell Doctour in Divinity interpreteth to be The Tribute of Verulamium For Tasc as he teacheth me in the British or Welsh tongue soundeth as much as Tribute Tascia A Tribute Penny and Tascyd the chiefe Collector of Tribute But loe heere is the very peece of money portraied for you to see which heeretofore also I have exhibited Some would have this money to bee coined before the comming in of the Romans but I beleeve them not For I have alwaies thought them to bee Tribute money which being imposed upon the poll and the lands were yeerely exacted and gathered by the Romans as I have said before For before that the Romans came I can scarce beleeve the Britans coined or stamped any money Yet I remember what Caesar writeth of them And they use saith he brasse money or rings of iron weighed to a certaine poise Where the ancient bookes have Lanceis Ferreis for which the Criticks put in Laminis Ferreis that is plates of iron But let my pen returne againe to the matter proposed for my meaning is not heere to weave the same web still As for Verulam it was famous for nothing so much as for bringing foorth Alban a Citizen of singular holinesse and faith in Christ who when Dioclesian went about by exquisite torments to wipe Christian Religion quite out of the memory of men was the first in Britaine that with invincible constancy and resolution suffred death for Christ his sake Whereupon hee is called our Stephen and the Protomartyr of Britaine yea and Fortunatus Presbyter the Poet wrote thus of him Albanum egregium foecunda Britannia profert Fruitfull Britaine bringeth foorth Alban a Martyr of mickle worth And Hiericus a Frenchman who flourished 700. yeeres agoe of the same Alban and his executioner miraculously stricken blinde made these verses Millia poenarum Christi pro nomine passus Quem tandem rapuit capitis sententia caesi Sed non lictori cessit res tuta superbo Utque caput Sancto
But after that they were thrust out by King Henry the Eight there were substituted for them a Deane sixe Prebendaries and others The Church being thus built and an Episcopall See there placed the Towne now as saith William of Malmesbury became of great name for frequent trade of Merchants and resort of people And in the 17. yeare of King Stephen as we reade in old Annals Norwich was founded a new became a well peopled City and was made a Corporation And most certaine it is out of the kings Records that king Stephen granted it unto his sonne William for his Appennage as they terme it or inheritance Out of whose hands King Henry the Second shortly after wrested it by composition and kept it for himselfe And albeit his Sonne Henry called the younger King when he aspired ambitiously to the kingdome had made a large promise thereof unto Hugh Bigod Earle of Norfolke whom hee had drawne to side with him At which time Bigod taking part with the young King who could not containe his hope of the Kingdome within the bounds of duty and equity most grievously afflicted and oppressed this City and then as it is thought reedified that Castle standing within the very City upon an high hill neere unto the Cathedrall Church which being compassed with a ditch of a wonderfull depth seemed in those daies impregnable Which notwithstanding Lewis the French-man with whom the seditious Barons of England combined against King John won it easily by Siege Now that Bigod reedified this Castle I verily beleeve because I have seen Lions Saliant engraven there in a Stone after the same forme that the Bigods used in times past in their Seales of whom also there was one that in his Seale used a Crosse. These things fell out in the first age we may say of Norwich But in the age next ensuing it encreased mightily and flourished by reason that the Citizens grew to be passing wealthy who exhibited a supplication in the Parliament house unto King Edward the First that they might be permitted to wall their City about which they afterwards performed to the exceeding great strengthning and honor thereof They obtained moreover of King Richard the Second that the Worsted made there might be transported and in the yeare 1403. king Henry the fourth granted that they might choose every yeare a Major in stead of their Bailiffes which before were the principall Magistrates They built likewise a passing faire Towne-house in the very middest of the City neere unto the Mercat-place which on certaine set dayes is furnished exceeding well with all things necessary for mans life And verily much beholden it is unto the Netherlanders that being weary of Duke de Alba his cruelty and hating the bloudy Inquisition repaired hither in great numbers and first brought in the making and trade of saies baies and other stuffes now much in use But why should I stand long upon these things when as Alexander Nevill a Gentleman well borne and very learned hath notably described all these matters together with the story of their Bishops the orderly succession of their Magistrates and the furious outrage of that most villanous Rebell Keâ— against this City This only will I adde that in the yeare 1583. the Citizens conveighed water out of the River through pipes by an artificiall Instrument or water-forcer up into the highest places of the City Heere I may justly commence an action both against Polydor Virgill an Italian and also against Angelus Capellus a Frenchman and put them to their answer before the Tribunal of venerable Antiquity why they have avouched that the ancient ORDOVICES who be seated as it were in another world inhabited this Norwich I would have the same mery action also against our Country man D. Caius but that I know for certaine that the good old man right learned though he were was blinded in this point with the naturall love of this his own native Country Neither have I more to say of Norwich unlesse it may please you to runne over these Verses of Master Iohn Ionston a Scottish-Britan written of the same Vrbs speciosa situ nitidis pulcherrima tectis Grata peregrinis delitiosa suis. Bellorum sedes trepido turbante tumultu Tristia Neustriaco sub duce damna tulit Victis dissidijs postquam caput ardua coelo Extulit immensis crevit opima opibus Cultus vincit opes cultum gratia rerum Quam benè si luxus non comitetur opes Omnia sic adeò sola haec sibi sufficit ut si Fo rs regno desit haec caput esse queat A City seated daintily most faire built she is knowne Pleasing and kinde to Strangers all delightfull to her owne The seat of warre whiles civill sturs and tumults yet remain'd In William the Normans dayes she grievous losse sustain'd These broiles and jarres once past when as her head aloft againe She bare in richnesse infinite and wealth she grew amaine Her Port exceeds that wealth and things all superfine this Port How happy were it if excesse with such wealth did not sort So all sufficient in her selfe and so complete is shee That if neede were of all the Realme the Mistresse shee might bee From Norwich the River Yare having entertained other beackes and brookes as guests yet all under his owne name passeth on still with many winding crookes very full of the fishes called Ruffes which name because in English it soundeth like to Rough D. Caius named it aptly in Latine Aspredo that is Rough. For it is all the body over rough and hath very sharpe and pricky finnes it delighteth in sandy places for shape and bignesse like unto a Perch in colour browne and duskish above but palish yellow beneath marked by the chawes with a double course of half-circles the eye for the upper halfe of it of a darke browne for the nether somewhat yellowish like delayed gold the ball and sight thereof blacke This speciall marke by it selfe it hath that there is a line goeth along the backe and fastened to the body as it were with an overthwart thred all to bespotted ouer the taile and fins with blacke speckes which finnes when the fish is angry stand up and bristle stiffe and strong but when the anger is allayed they fall flat againe The meat of this Ruffe resembleth that of the Perch much commended for holsomnesse and for eating tender and short When Yâ—re is gone past Claxton where there stands a Castlet built round which Sir Thomas Gawdy knight Justice of the Common Pleas of late repaired it receiveth a brooke which passeth by nothing memorable but Halles-hall and that only memorable for his ancient Owner Sir Iames Hobart Atturney Generall and of the Privie Counsell to King Henry the Seventh by him dubbed Knight at such time as he created Henry his sonne Prince of Wales who by building from the ground the faire Church at Loddon being his Parish Church Saint Olaves bridge over
is hard by In that Church which I said was unfinished there is a small Chappell but all of wood whereinto on either side at a narrow and little Doore are such admitted as come with their Devotions and Offerings Small light there is in it and none other in manner but by tapers or wax-candles yeelding a most dainty and pleasant smell Nay if you looke into it you would say it were the Habitation of heavenly Saints indeed so bright shining it is all over with pretious Stones with Gold and Silver But within the memory of our fathers when King Henry the Eighth had set his minde and eye both upon the Riches and Possessions of Churches all this vanished quite away Touching Walsingham I have nothing else to say more but that the Family of the Walsinghams Knights as they will have it that curiously search after Genealogies fetched first their name and Originall from hence Out of which house flourished that Sir Francis Walsingham Secretary unto Queene Elizabeth a man as of deepe insight so also of as rare and painfull industry in the weightiest affaires of the Realme But hard by it at Houghton flourished sometime the noble Family of the Neirfords who by matching in marriage with Parnel de Vallibus who had about Holt Cley and elsewhere a goodly Inheritance was greatly enriched But now let us looke backe againe to the Shore Neere unto Walsingham Westward upon the Sea side was that ancient Towne BRANNODUNUM where when the Saxons first molested Britaine with their Invasions The Dalmatian Horsemen lay in Garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon Shore But now it is a country Village reteining nought but the remaines of that name and shewing a Trench and Rampire the neighbour Inhabitants call it the Castle that containeth within it a plot of ground much about eight Acres and is named Brancaster where peeces of Romane money are many times gotten out of the earth Very commodiously was there a Garrison planted in this place for at S. Edmunds Chappell neere adjoyning and Hunstanton built by that holy King Saint Edmund the coast draweth backe into the South and so admitteth a larger creeke for the Sea to enter into lying open for Pirats into which many Rivers also doe void themselves As for Hunstanton it is to be remembred in this regard if there were nothing else for that it hath beene the Habitation of the Family of Le Strange Knights by degree ever since that in the Raigne of Edward the Second Iohn Baron Le Strange of Knockin gave the same unto Hamon his younger Brother The catching of Hawkes and the plentifull fishing the Ieat and Amber also found oftentimes in this Shore I wittingly omit seeing that there is great store of these things else where along this Tract Yet Sharnborn in this Coast is not to be omitted both for that Foelix the Burgundian who brought these East Englishmen to the Christian Faith and state of perpetuall Felicity built in this place the second Church of Christians in this Country for the first he founded at Babingley where he landed as also because it is verily thought and that by the faithfull testimony of old deeds and evidences that an old Englishman Lord of this place before the comming of the Normans by vertue of sentence given judicially in open Court by William Conquerour himselfe recovered this Lordship against Warren unto whom the Conquerour had given it Which argument they enforce hard who would prove that the said William entred upon the Possession of England by Covenant and agreement and not by right of warre and Conquest The foresaid Creeke or Bay our Country men call the Washes Ptolomee termed it AESTUARIUM METARIS haply for Malthraith by which name the Britains called the like Frithes and Armes of the Sea in other places neither doth it signifie among them any other thing than an Arme of the Sea uncertainly changing the chanell such as this is Upon this where the River Ouse striveth forcibly against the Ocean standeth Linne peradventure so named of the waters broad spreading For that doth Lhyn import in the British tongue A large Towne this is encompassed with a deepe trench and wals for the most part thereof divided by two small Rivers that have fifteene bridges or thereabout over them and although it be of no great antiquity and not long since called Linnum Episcopi that is Bishops Linne because it appertained to the Bishops of Norwich untill King Henry the Eighth his daies for it had beginning out of the ruines of an elder Towne which stood over against it in Marshland and is at this day called Old Linne and Linnum Regis that is Kings Linne yet by reason of the safe Haven which yeeldeth most easie accesse for the number also of Merchants there dwelling and thither resorting for the faire and the goodly houses the wealth also of the townesmen it is doubtlesse the principall towne of this Shire except Norwich onely It hath likewise most large franchises and immunities which the Inhabitants bought with their owne bloud of King John whiles they tooke part with him and defended his quarrell who ordained there a Major and delivered unto them his owne sword to be carried before him yea and gave unto them a silver cup all gilt which they still doe keep These their liberties being afterwards lost they redeemed not without bloud also of King Henry the Third when siding with him and serving under his Banner they fought an unfortunate battaile against the outlawed Lords in the Isle of Ely as the booke of Ely and Mathew Paris doe both joyntly witnesse Over against Linne on the farther side of the River lieth Mershland a little moist mersh country as the name implieth divided and parted every where with ditches trenches and furrowes to draine and draw the waters away a soile standing upon a very rich and fertile mould and breeding abundance of cattell in so much as that in a place commonly called Tilneysmeth there feed much about 30000. sheepe but so subject to the beating and overflowing of the roaring maine Sea which very often breaketh teareth and troubleth it so grievously that hardly it can be holden off with chargeable wals and workes The places of greater note in this Mershland are these Walpole which the Lord of the place gave in times past unto the Church of Ely together with his sonne whom he had made a Monke there Wigenhall the possession of I. Howard in the Raigne of Edward the First whose Posterity spred and became a most honorable and noble Family whereof I have already spoken Tilney whence in old time the stocke of the Tilneys Knights tooke name and Saint Maries the seat of the ancient race of the Carvils Now have we passed along all the Sea-coast As for the inner part of the Country there are also very many Townes toward the West side but because they bee of later
memory I will briefly runne them over Neere to Linne upon an high hill standeth Rising-castle almost marchable to the Castle of Norwich the seat in times past of the Albineys afterwards of Robert de Monthault by one of the sisters and coheires of Hugh Albiney Earle of Arundell and at last the mansion place of the Mowbrays who as I have learned came out of the same house that the Albineys did But now after long languishings as it were by reason of old age the said Castle hath given up the ghost Below it is Castle-acre where was sometimes the habitation of the Earles of Warren in a Castle now halfe downe on a little Rivers side which carrying no name ariseth not farre from Godwicke a lucky good name where there stands a small house but greatly graced by the Lord thereof Sir Edward Coke Knight a man of rare endowments of nature and as in the Common lawes much practised so of deepe insight therein which all England both tooke knowledge of whiles hee discharged the function of Atturney Generall many yeares most learnedly and now acknowledgeth whiles being Lord Chiefe Justice of the Common Pleas he administreth justice as uprightly and judiciously Neither is he lesse to be remembred for that he loveth learning and hath well deserved of the present and succeeding ages by his learned labours This Riveret or brooke with a small streame and shallow water runneth Westward to Linne by Neirford that gave name to the Family of the Neirfords famous in times past and by Neirborrough where neere unto the house of the Spilmans knights upon a very high hill is to be seene a warlike Fort of passing great strength and of ancient worke so situated as it hath a very faire prospect into the Country about it After upon the said Brooke is seated Penteney a prety Abbay the ordinary buriall place in ancient time of the Noblemen and Gentlemen in this Tract Neere unto it lieth Wormegay commonly Wrongey which Reginald de Warren brother of William de Warren the second Earle of Surry had with his wife of whom as I have read the said Earle had the donation or Maritagium as they use to speake in the law phrase and by his sonnes daughter streightwayes it was transferred to the Bardolphs who being Barons of great nobility flourished a long time in honorable state and bare for their Armes Three Cinque-foiles or in a Shield Azâ—r The greatest part of whose Inheritance together with the Title came to Sir William Phellips and by his daughter passed away to the Vicount Beaumont More Eastward are seated Swaffham a Mercat Towne of good note sometime the Possession of the Earle of Richmond Ashele Manour by Tenure whereof the Hastings and Greies Lords of Ruthin had the charge of table clothes and linnen used at the solemne Coronation of the Kings of England North Elmham the Bishops See for a good time when as this Province was divided into two Dioceses Dereham wherein Withburga King Annas daughter was buried whom because shee was piously affected farre from all riotous excesse and wanton lightnesse our Ancestours accounted for a Saint Next unto which is Greshenhall and adjoyning thereto Elsing the possessions in ancient time of the Folliots men of great worth and Dignity which in right of dowry came by a daughter of Richard Folliot to Sir Hugh de Hastings descended out of the Family of Abergevenny and at length by the daughters and heires of Hastings the last Greshenhall aforesaid fell unto Sir Hamon le Strange of Hunstanton and Elsing unto William Browne the brother of Sir Antonie Browne the first Vicount Mount-acute In this quarter also is Ick-borrough which Talbot supposeth to have beene that ICIANI whereof Antonine speaketh Neither have I cause to write any more of these places And now I thinke it is good time to set downe the Earles and Dukes of Northfolke that I may proceed to Cambridgeshire William the Conquerour made one Raulph Governour of East-England that is to say of Norfolke Suffolke and Cambridgeshire who forthwith gaping as I said after an alteration and change in the State was dispossessed of that place After certaine yeares in the Raigne of Stephen Hugh Bigod was Earle of Norfolke For when peace was concluded betweene Stephen and Henry Duke of Anjou who became afterwards King Henry the second by expresse words it was provided that William King Stephens sonne should have the whole Earledome of Norfolke excepting among other things The third peny of that County whereof Hugh Bigod was Earle Whom notwithstanding King Henry the Second created Earle againe of the third peny of Norfolke and Norwich Who dying about the 27. yeare of Henry the Second Roger his sonne succeeded who for what cause I know not obtained at the hands of King Richard the first a new Charter of his creation Him succeeded his sonne Hugh who tooke to his wife Mawde the eldest daughter and one of the heires of William Marescall Earle of Pembroch By whom he had issue one sonne named Roger Earle of Norfolke and Marescall of England who at Tournament having his bones put out of joint died without issue and another called Hugh Bigod Lord chiefe Justice of England slaine in the battaile of Lewis whose sonne Roger succeeded his Uncle in the Earldome of Norfolke and dignity of Marescall but having incurred through his insolent contumacy the high displeasure of King Edward the First was compelled to passe away his honors and well neere his whole inheritance into the Kings hands to the use of Thomas of Brâ—therton the Kings son whom he had begotten of his second wife Margaret sister to Philip the Faire King of France For thus reporteth the History out of the Library of Saint Austens in Canterbury In the yeare 1301. Roger Bigod Earle of Norfolke ordained King Edward to bee his heire and hee delivered into his hands the rod of the Marshals Office with this condition that if his wife brought him any children he should without all contradiction receive againe all from the King and hold it peaceably as before and the King gave unto him a 1000. pounds in money and a thousand pound land during his life together with the Marshalship and the Earldome But when he was departed this life without issue King Edward the Second honoured the said Thomas of Brotherton his brother according to the conveiance aforesaid with the Titles of Marshall and Earle of Norfolke Whose daughter Margaret called Marshallesse and Countesse of Norfolke wife to Iohn Lord Segrave king Richard the Second created in her absence Dutchesse of Norfolke for terme of life and the same day created Thomas Mowbray the daughters sonne of the said Margaret then Earle of Notingham the first Duke of Norfolke To him and his heires males unto whom he had likewise granted before the State and stile of Earle Marshall of England This is hee that before the king was challenged and accused by Henry of Lancaster Duke
in the yeere 1588. leaving the fame onely of his greatnesse behinde him Within this Shire are 200. Parish Churches RVTLANDIAE Omnium in Anglia Comitatu um minimus Pars olim CORITANORVM RUTLAND-SHIRE RUTLAND in the old English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is environed within Leicester-shire unlesse it be on the South-side where it lieth upon the river Welland and on the East-side where it butteth upon Lincoln-shire A Country nothing inferiour to Leicester-shire either in fruitfull qualitie of soile or pleasantnesse but in quantitie onely as being the least County of all England For lying in forme almost round like a circle it is in compasse so farre about as a light horseman will ride in one day Whence it is that the Inhabitants tell a tale of I wote not what king who should give to one Rut so much land as he could ride about in one day and that he forsooth rode about this shire within the time appointed and so had it given him and named it by his owne name Rutland But let such fables bee packing I would not have the trueth prejudiced with an extravagant tale And where as the earth in this shire is every where red and so red that even the sheepes fleeces are thereby coloured red whereas also the English-Saxons called Red in their tongue Roet and Rud may we not suppose that this Countrey was named Rutland as one would say a Redland For as saith the Poet. Conveniunt rebus nomina saepè suis. The names as often times we see With things themselves full well agree Now that places in all Nations have had their names of rednesse Rutlan Castle in Wales built on a shore of red earth Redbay Redhill Redland The Red Promontory The Red-Sea also betwixt Aegypt and Arabia Erytheia in Ionia and a number besides may proove most evidently So that there is no cause why we should give credit to fables in this behalfe As for this little County it may seeme to have beene ordained a Shire or County but of late daies For in King Edward the Confessors time it was counted a part of Northampton-shire and our Historiographers who wrote three hundred yeeres agoe and upward reckoned it not in the number of Shires Wash or Guash a little river which runneth from the West Eastward through the middle of it divideth it in twaine In the hithermore or South part riseth Uppingham upon an high ascent whence that name was imposed not memorable for any thing else but because it is counted a well frequented Mercat towne and hath for to shew a proper Schoole which together with another at Okeham R. Ihonson a Minister of Gods word in a good and laudable intent for the training up of children in good literature lately erected with the money he had gotten together by way of collection Under this standeth Drystoke which in no wise is to be passed over with silence considering it hath been the habitation from old time of a right ancient race of the Digbyes which I grieve to utter it but all men know it hath now caught a deepe steine by Sir Everard Digby drawne into that cursed crew who most horribly complotted with one divelish flash of hellish Gun-pouder to blow up both Prince and Country More Eastward upon the river Welland I saw nothing remarkeable unlesse it be Berohdon now Barodon which Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke held with South Leffingham now South Luffenham and other Hamelets by service to be the Kings Chamberlaine in the Exchequer On the further part beyond the river among the hils there spreadeth below a very pleasant and fruitfull vale named at this day The vale of Catmose happily of Coet maes which signifieth in the Brittish tongue a field full of woods In the middest whereof Okeham sheweth it selfe which by the like reason may seeme to have taken the name from Okes where hard by the Church which is large and faire remaine the crackt and decaying walls of an old Castle which Walkelin de Ferrariâ—s built in the first times of the Norman Kings And that it hath been the dwelling place of the Ferrars besides the credit of writers and generall report the great horse shoes which in times past that family gave in their armes fastned upon the gate and in the hall may sufficiently proove Afterwards it belonged to the Lords of Tatteshall But when King Richard the second had promoted Edward the Duke of Yorkes sonne to the Earledome of Rutland he gave unto him this Castle also But within our Fathers remembrance it befell unto Thomas Cromwel and was reputed the seat of his Baronie whom King Henry the Eighth advanced to the highest pitch of dignity and streightwaies when by his plotting and attempting of many matters he had cast himselfe into the tempestuous stormes of envy and displeasure bereft him on a sudden both of life and dignity Over against it Eastward there standeth Burley most daintily seated and overlooking the vale A stately and sumptuous house now of the Haringtons who by marrying the daughter and heire of Colepeper became Lords of so faire an inheritance that ever since they have flourished in these parts like as before time the Colepepers had done unto whom by N. Green the wealthy and goodly Livelod of the Bruses in part had descended As for those Bruses being men of the chiefe Nobility in England they were engraffed into the Roiall stocke and family of Scotland out of whom by Robert the eldest brother the race Roiall of Scotland are sprung-like as by Bernard the younger brother the Cottons of Connington in Huntingdon-shire of whom I have written already and these Haringtons In which regard and gracious respect King James advanced Sir Iohn Harington branched from that stem that the ancient Lords Harington to the title of Baron Harington of Exton a towne adjacent where he hath also an other faire house Moreover on the East side by the river Guash stands Brigcasterton whereof I will say more afterward and Rihall where when superstition had so bewitched our ancestours that the multitude of their pety Saints had well neere taken quite away the true God one Tibba a pety Saint or Goddesse reputed to bee the tutelar patronesse of Hauking was of Foulers and Faulkoners worshipped as a second Diana Essendon also is neere adjoyning the Lord whereof Sir Robert Cecil a good sonne of a right good father the strength and stay of our Common-wealth in his time was by King James created Baron Cecil of Essendon in the first yeere of his reigne This little County King Edward the Confessor by his last Will and Testament bequeathed unto his wife Eadith yet with this condition that after her death it should come to S. Peter of Westminster For these be the very words of the said Testament I will that after the death of Queene Eadith my wife ROTELAND with all the appertenances thereto be given to my Monastery of the most blessed
spirituall benefits in that Church as praiers blessings c. and so when he had entertained them with a very sumptuous feast hee gave them his blessing and dismissed them chearefully every man to his owne home But I will dwell no longer in this matter But hereby you may see how by small contributions great workes arose From Crowland there goeth a Cawsey planted on both sides with Willowes betweene the River Welland and the deepe Marishes Northward upon which two miles from Crowland I saw the fragment of a Piramis with this Inscription 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I SAY THAT SAINT GUTHLAKE THIS STONE HIS BOVND DOTH MAKE Higher yet upon the same River is seated Spalding enclosed round about with Riverets and draines a fairer Towne I assure you than a man would looke to finde in this Tract among such slabbes and water-plashes where Ivo Talbois whom Ingulph elsewhere calleth Earle of Anjou gave an ancient Cell to the Monkes of Angiers in France From hence as farre as to Deeping which is ten miles off Egelrick Abbat of Crowland afterwards Bishop of Durham made for the ease of travailers as saith Ingulphus through the middest of a vast Forest and of most deepe Fennes a sound causey of wood and sand after his owne name called Elrich-road which notwithstanding at this day is not to be seene In higher Hoiland that bendeth more into the North first we have in sight Kirkton so named of the Church which is passing faire and then where the River Witham hemnd in strongly with bankes on both sides runneth in a maine and full streame toward the sea flourisheth Boston more truely named Botolphs-towne For it carried that name from one Botolph a most holy and devout Saxon who at Icanhoe had a Monastery A famous Towne this is standing on both sides of the River Witham which hath over it a wooden bridge of a great height and well frequented by the meanes of a commodious haven unto it the Mercat place is faire and large and the Church maketh a goodly shew as well for the beautifull building as the greatnesse thereof the towre-steeple of it which riseth up to a mighty height doth as one would say salute passengers and travailers a great way off and giveth direction also to the sailers A lamentable overthrow it sustained in the Raigne of Edward the first For when bad and Ruffian-like behaviour rufled at that time over all England certaine military lusty fellowes having proclaimed heere a Justs or running at Tilt at a Faire time when there was much resort of people thither came apparelled in the habit of Monkes and Chanons set fire on the Towne in most places thereof brake in upon Merchants with sodaine violence tooke away many things by force burnt a great deale more in so much as our Historians write that as the ancient Writers record of Corinth when it was destroied molten gold and silver ran downe in a streame together The Ring-leader Robert Chamberlan after hee had confessed the act and what a shamefull deed had been committed was hanged yet could he not be wrought by any meanes to disclose his complices in this foule fault But happier times raised Boston againe out of the ashes and a staple for wooll here setled did very much enrich it and drew thither merchants of the Hanse Society who had here their Guild At this day it is for building faire and by good trade rich For the Inhabitants give themselves both to merchandise and also to grasing Nere unto this was the Barony de Croeun or de Credonio out of which family Alan de Croeun founded the Priory of Freston and at length Parnel heire of the family being twice married transferred no small inheritance first to the Longchamps which came to the Pedwardins and secondly to John Vaulx from whom the Barons Roos are descended Beyond it scarce six miles reacheth Holland all which Ivo Talboys of Anjo◠received at the bountifull hands of king William the Conqueror but Herward an English man of good hope and full of douty courage being sonne to Leofrick Lord of Brane or Burne not brooking his insolency when he saw his owne and his Country mens safety now endangered after he had received the cincture with a military Belt by Brann Abbat of Peterborough whose stomacke rose also against the Normans raised warre against him oftentimes put him to flight and at length carried him away captive and suffered him not to bee ransomed but with such conditions that he might be received into the Kings favour wherein he dyed his liege man For so deserved his valour which is alwayes commended even in a very enemy His Daughter being wedded to Hugh Enermeve Lord of Deping enjoyed his lands which afterwards as I understand was devolved upon the Family of Wake which being mightily enriched with the Possessions of the Estotevills was of right great honour in these parts untill the Raigne of Edward the Second for then by an heire Generall their inheritance came by right of marriage unto Edmund of Woodstocke youngest sonne to King Edward the First and Earle of Kent But of a younger sonne the ancient Family of the Wakes of Blisworth in Northampton-shire yet remaining is descended The second part of this Country commonly called Kesteven and by Aethelward an ancient Authour Ceostefnewood adjoyning to Hoiland on the West side is for aire farre more wholesome and for Soile no lesse fruitfull Greater this is and larger than the other yea and garnished every where with more faire Townes At the entry thereinto upon the river Welland standeth Stanford in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 built of rough stone whence it hath the name A Towne well peopled and of great resort endowed also with sundry immunities and walled about It gave Geld or Tribute as wee reade in Domesday Booke for twelve hundreds and an halfe in the army shipping and Danegeld and in it were sixe Wards What time as King Edward the elder fortified the South bankes of Rivers against the Danes breaking by force into the Land out of the North parts Marianus recordeth that hee built a very strong Castle just over against this Towne also on the South banke which now is called Stanford Baron yet there appeareth not any one token thereof at this day for that Castle which in time of the civill Warre Stephen strengthened against Henry of Anjou was within the Towne as both the generall report holdeth and the very plot also whereon it stood as yet remaining sheweth But soone after the said Henry being now King of England gave the whole Towne of Stanford which was in his Demaine excepting the fees or Feifs of the Barons and Knights of the same Towne unto Richard de Humez or Homets who was Constable to the King his Soveraigne Lord for his homage and service And the same afterwards held William Earle of Warren by the will and pleasure of King John Under the
thereof For in this tenour runne the very words of the Charter She likewise bestowed it upon John de Lacy Constable of Chester and the heires whom hee should beget of the body of Margaret her daughter This John had issue Edmund who dying before his mother left this honour for Henry his sonne to enjoy who was the last Earle of that line For when his sonnes were taken away by untimely death and he had but one little daughter onely remaining alive named Alice hee affianced her being but nine yeeres old to Thomas the sonne of Edmund Earle of Lancaster with this condition That if he should fortune to dye without heires of her body or if they happened to dye without heires of their bodies his Castles Lordships c. should in Remainder come to the heires of Edmund Earle of Lancaster for ever But the said Alice had no childe at all by her husband Thomas But when Thomas her husband was beheaded shee that by her light behaviour had not a little steined her good name tooke Sir Eubul le Strange with whom she had lived before time too familiarly for her husband without the assent and privity of her Soveraigne who being hereat highly offended seised her possessions into his owne hands Yet both Sir Eubul Strange and Sir Hugh Frene her third husband are in some Records named Earles of Lincolne After Alice now very aged was departed this life without issue Henry Earle of Lancaster Nephew to Edmund aforesaid by his second sonne entred upon her large and faire patrimony by vertue of that conveiance which I spake of before and from that time it accrued to the House of Lancaster Howbeit the Kings of England at their pleasure have bestowed the name and honour of Earles of Lincolne as King Edward the Fourth gave it to Sir John De la Pole and King Henry the Eighth to Henry Brandon both the Sonnes of the Dukes of Suffolke who both ended this life without Issue the first slaine in the battaile at Stoke and the other taken away by the sweating sicknesse Afterward Queene Elizabeth promoted Edward Baron Clinton Lord high Admirall of England to the said honour which his sonne Henry enjoyeth at this day There are in this Shire Parishes much about 630. NOTINGAMIAE Comitatus olim pars CORITANORVM NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE VPon the West side of Lincolne-shire confineth the County of NOTTINGHAM in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in English Nottingham-shire being farre lesse in quantity limited Northward with York-shire Westward with Darby-shire and in some parts with York-shire and on the South side with Leicester-shire The South and East part thereof are made more fruitfull by the noble and famous River Trent with other Riverets resorting unto it The West part is taken up with the Forest of Shirewood which stretcheth out a great way This part because it is sandy the Inhabitants tearme The Sand the other for that it is Clayish they call the Clay and so have divided their Country into these two parts The River Trent in the old English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which some Antiquaries of small note and account have called Triginta in Latine for the affinity of the French word Trent that signifieth that number Triginta that is thirty having gone a long journey so soone as hee is entred into this Shire and hath recepto Souro flumine ex agro Leicestrensi taking in the River Soure from the field of Leicester runne by Steanford where I have learned there be many tokens remaining of old antiquity and peeces of Roman money oftentimes found and then by Clifton which hath given both habitation and sirname also to the ancient family of the Cliftons much enriched by one of the heires of Cressy taketh in from the West the little River Lin which rising neere unto Newsted that is New place where sometime King Henry the Second founded a small Abbay and which is now the dwelling house of the ancient Family of the Burons descended from Ralph de Buron who at the first comming in of the Normans flourished in great state both in this Countrey and also in Lancashire runneth hard by Wallaton rich in veines of cole where Sir Francis Willoughby a Knight nobly descended from the Greis Marquesse Dorset in our daies built out of the ground with great charges upon a vaine ostentation of his wealth a stately house with artificiall workemanship standing bleakely but offering a very goodly prospect to the beholders farre and neere Then runneth it by Linton or Lenton much frequented and famous in old time for the Abbay there of the Holy Trinity founded by William Peverell the base sonne of King William the Conquerour but now all the fame is onely for a Faire there kept Where on the other banke at the very meeting well neere of Lin and Trent the principall Towne that hath given name unto the Shire is seated upon the side of an hill now called Nottingham by softning the old name a little for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for so the English Saxons named it of certaine caves and passages under the ground which in old time they hewed and wrought hollow under those huge and steepe cliffes which are on the South side hanging over the little River Lin for places of receit and refuge yea and for habitations And thereupon Asserius interpreteth this Saxon word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Latine Speluncarum domum that is An house of Dennes or Caves and in the British Tui ogo bauc which signifieth the very selfe same The Towne for the naturall site thereof is right pleasant as where on the one hand lye faire and large Medowes by the Rivers side on the other rise hils with a gentle and easie ascent and is plentifully provided of all things beside necessary for mans life On the one side Shirewood yeeldeth store of wood to maintaine fire although many use for that purpose stinking pit cole digged forth of the ground on the other Trent serveth it aboundantly with fish And hence hath beene taken up this od barbarous Verse Limpida sylva focum Triginta dat mihi piscem Shire-wood yeelds me fuell for fire As Trent yeelds fish what I require At a word for largenesse for building for three faire Churches a passing spacious and beautifull Mercat place and a most strong Castle it maketh a goodly shew The said Castle is mounted upon an huge and steepe worke on the West side of the City in which place it is thought that Castle stood in times past upon whose strength the Danes presuming held out against the Siege of Aethered and Aelfrid so long untill they frustrate of their purpose brake up their Siege trussed up bagge and baggage and dislodged For when the Danes had taken this Castle Burthred King of the Mercians as mine Authour Asserius writeth and the Mercians addresse their messengers to Aethered King of the West Saxons and to
the Conquerour appointed over this Shire William Peverell his base sonne not with the Title of Earle but of Lord of Nottingham who had a sonne that dyed before his father and hee likewise had a sonne of the same name whom king Henry the Second disinherited for that he went about to poison Ranulph Earle of Chester Much about this time Robert de Ferrarijs who rifled and ransacked Nottingham in a Donation which he made unto the Church of Tuttesbury stiled himselfe thus Robertus Comes junior de Nottingham that is Robert the younger Earle of Nottingham But afterwards King Richard the First gave and confirmed unto his brother John the Earledome and Castle of Nottingham with all the Honour of Peverell Many yeeres after King Richard the Second honoured John Lord Mowbray with this Title of Earle of Nottingham who dying a young man without issue his brother Thomas succeeded after him He being by king Richard the Second created Earle Mareshall and Duke of Norfolke and soone after banished begat Thomas Earle Mareshall whom king Henry the Fourth beheaded and John Mowbray who as also his sonne and Nephew were likewise Dukes of Norfolke and Earles of Nottingham But when as their male issue failed and that Richard the young sonne of King Edward the Fourth being Duke of Yorke had borne this Title with others by his Wife the heire of the Mowbraies but a small while King Richard the Third honoured William Vicount Barkley descended from the Mowbraies with this Title of Earle of Nottingham and whereas hee dyed without issue king Henry the Eighth bestowed the same honour upon his illegitimate sonne H. Fitz Roy when hee created him Duke of Richmond but hee departed this life in the flower of his age leaving no childe Afterward this Title lay extinct untill in the yeere of our Lord 1597. Queene Elizabeth by solemne investiture adorned therewith Charles Lord Howard of Effingham and High Admirall of England descended from the Mowbraies in regard of his service as appeareth in the Charter of his Creation right valiantly and faithfully performed against the Spanish Armado in the yeere 1588. as also at the winning of Caliz in Spaine where he was Lord Generall of the forces by sea like as the Earle of Essex of those by land There are in this County Parish Churches 168. DARBY-SHIRE DARBY-SHIRE called in old English-Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 lieth close to Nottingham-shire Westward confining with Leicester-shire upon the Southside like as with Stafford-shire on the West and York-shire in the North resembling as it were the forme of a Triangle but not with equall sides For whereas about the point of it lying Southward it is scarce sixe miles broad it so enlargeth and spreadeth it selfe on both sides that where it looketh into the North it carrieth much about thirty miles in breadth The River Derwent that runneth along the middest of it divideth it after a sort in two parts which River breaking out of the North limit thereof and taking his course Southward sometimes with his blacke waters stained with the Soile and earth that it passeth by rumbleth downe apace into the Trent For Trent overthwarteth the said narrow point that I spake of lying Southward The East side and the South parts are well manured not unfruitfull and besides well stored with Parkes The West part beyond Derwent which they call the Peake being all of it hilly or a stony and craggy ground is more barraine howbeit rich in lead iron and coles which it yeeldeth plentifully and also feedeth Sheepe very commodiously In the South corner the first place worth the naming that offereth it selfe to sight is Greisely Castle more than broken downe which together with a little Monastery was founded in times past in honour of Saint George by the Greiseleies Lords thereof who fetching their descent from William the sonne of Sir Niele of Grieseley about the very Conquest of England by the Normans have flourished unto these dayes in great worship the which they have not a little augmented long since by marrying with the daughter and heire of the ancient family of Gasteneys Upon the River Dove which untill it entreth into Trent divideth this Country from Stafford-shire we meet with nothing in this Shire but small country Villages and Ashburne a Mercate towne where the house of the Cokains flourished a long time and Norbury where the right ancient family of the Fitz-Herberts have long inhabited out of which Sir Anthony Fitz-Herbert hath deserved passing well of the knowledge and profession of our Commons law Not farre from which is Shirley an ancient Lordship of the well renowned Family of the Shirleys who derive their pedegree from one Fulcher unto whom beside the antiquity of their house much honor and faire lands have accrued by marriage with the heires of the Breoses the Bassets of Brailesford the Stantons Lovets c. And heere stand round about many places which have given name and Habitation to worshipfull Families as Longford Bradburne Kniveton from whence came those Knivetons of Mercaston and Bradley of which house Saint Lo Kniveton is one to whose judicious and studious diligence I am deeply endebted also Keidelston where the Cursons dwelt as also at Crokhall But whether Sir Robert Curson knighted by King Henry the Seventh made a Baron of the Empire by Maximilian the Emperour in the yeere 1500. for his singular valour and thereupon by King Henry the Eigth made a Baron of England with a liberall pension assigned was descended from these Cursons I dare not affirme Heereby is Radborn where Sir John Chandos knight Lord of the place laid a goodly foundation of a great and stately house from whom by a daughter it came by hereditary succession unto the Poles who dwell heere at this day But these particularities I leave for him who hath undertaken the full description of this Shire But upon Trent so soon as ever he hath taken to him the river Dove is Repandunum to bee seene for so doe our History-writers call it the Saxons named it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we at this day Repton which from a great and faire Towne is become a poore small Village For in old time very famous it was by reason both of the buriall of Aethelbald that good King of the Mercians who through the treachery of his owne people lost his life and of the other Kings of Mercia as also for the unfortunate calamity of Burthred the last King of the Mercians who when hee had enjoyed his kingdome partly by way of entreaty and partly by meanes of bribery full twenty yeeres was heere deprived of his kingdome by the Danes or rather freed and exempted from the glittering misery of princely State and so became an example to teach men in how ticklish and slippery a place they stand which are underpropped onely with money Then not farre from Trent is Melborn a Castle of the Kings now decaying wherein John Duke of
with his streame at Buldewas commonly Bildas there flourished a faire Abbay the Sepulture in times past of the noble Family of the Burnels Patrons thereof Higher into the Country there is a Mansion or Baiting Towne named Watling street of the situation upon the foresaid Rode way or street And hard by it are seene the Reliques of Castle Dalaley which after that Richard Earle of Arundell was attainted King Richard the Second by authority of the Parliament annexed to the Principality of Chester which hee had then erected And not farre from the foote of the foresaid Wreken in an hollow Valley by that high street before mentioned Oken-yate a little Village well knowne for the plentifull delfe there of pit-cole lieth so beneath and just at the same distance as Antonine placeth VSOCONA both from URICONIUM and also from PENNOCRUCIUM that no man need to doubt but that this Oken-yate was that USOCONA Neither doth the name it selfe gainesay it for this word Ys which in the British tongue signifieth Lowe may seeme added for to note the low situation thereof On the other side beneath this Hill appeareth Charleton Castle in ancient times belonging to the Charletons Lords of Powis and more Eastward next of all unto Staffordshire Tong-Castle called in old time Toang which the Vernons not long since repaired as also the College within the Towne which the Pembridges as I have read first founded Neither have the Inhabitants any thing heere more worth shewing than a Bell for the bignesse thereof very famous in all those parts adjoyning Hard to this lieth Albrighton which in the Raigne of King Edward the First was the seat of Sir Raulph de Pichford but now of the Talbotts branched from the Family of the Earles of Shrewesbury But above Tong was Lilleshul Abbay in a woodland Country founded by the family of Beaumeis whose heire was marryed into the house of De La Zouch But seeing there is little left but ruines I will leave it and proceed forward Beyond the river Terne on the brinke thereof standeth Draiton where in the civill warres between the houses of Lancaster and Yorke a field was fought that cost many a Gentleman of Cheshire his life For they although the battaile was given up almost on even hand when they could not agree among themselves but tooke part with both sides were slaine by heapes and numbers on either side Beneath this Draiton and nere enough to Terne lieth Hodnet wherein dwelt sometimes Gentlemen of the same name from whom hereditarily it is come by the Ludlows unto the Vernons It was held in times past of the Honour of Mont-Gomery by service to bee Seneschall or Steward of the same Honour After this Terne having passed haâ—d by certaine little rurall Townes taketh in unto him the Riveret Roden and when hee hath gone a few miles further neere unto Uriconium of which I spake even now falleth into the Severn Upon this Roden whiles hee is but new come from his spring head standeth Wem where are to be seene the tokens of a Castle long since begun there to be built This was the Barony after the first entry of the Normans of William Pantulph from whose Posterity it came at length to the Butlers and from them by the Ferrars of Ousley and the Barons of Greystock unto the Barons D'acre of Gillesland Within a little of this upon an high hill well wooded or upon a cliffe rather which sometime was called Radcliffe stood a Castle mounted aloft called of the reddish stone Red-Castle and in the Normans language Castle Rous the seat in old time of the Audleies through the liberall bounty of Lady Maude Le Strange But now there remaineth no more but desolate walles which yet make a faire shew Scarce a mile from hence lyeth all along the dead carcasse as it were of a small City now well neere consumed But the peeces of Romane money and those brickes which the Romans used in building there found doe testifie the antiquity and founders thereof The neighbour Inhabitants use to call it Bery as one would say Burgh and they report that it was a most famous place in King Arthurs daies as the common sort ascribe whatsoever is ancient and strange to King Arthurs glory Then upon the same River Morton Corbet anciently an house of the Family of Turet afterward a Castle of the Corbets sheweth it selfe where within our remembrance Robert Corbet carryed away with the affectionate delight of Architecture began to build in a barraine place a most gorgeous and stately house after the Italians modell But death prevented him so that he left the new worke unfinished and the old Castle defaced These Corbets are of ancient Nobility in this Shire and held Lordships by service of Roger Montgomery Earle of this County about the comming in of the Normans for Roger the son of Corbet held Huelebec Hundeslit Acton Fern-leg c. Robert the sonne of Corbet held land in Ulestanton Rotlinghop Branten and Udecot And in later ages this family farre and fairely propagated received encrease both of revenew and great alliance by the marriage of an heire of Hopton More Southward standeth Arcoll the habitation of the Newports knights of great worship descended from the Barons Grey of Codnor and the Lords of Mothwy and neere unto it is Hagmond Abbay which the Lords Fitz Alanes if they did not found yet they most especially endowed Not much lower upon Severn standeth most pleasantly the famousest City for so it was called in Domesday booke of this Shire risen by the ruine of Old Uriconium which wee at this day call Shrewsbury and Shrowsbury having mollified the name whereas our Ancestours called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for that it was anciently a very thicket of shrobs upon an hill In which sense both the Greekes tearmed their Bessa and our Welsh Britans named this also Pengwerne that is The high plot planted with Alders and a Palace so named continued heere a long time But whence it is that it is called now in the British tongue Ymwithig and by the Normans Scropesbery Sloppesbery and Salop and in the Latin tongue Salopia I am altogether ignorant unlesse it should bee the ancient name Scobbes-beng diversely distorted and dis-jointed Yet some skilfull in the British tongue thinke verily it is called Ymwithig as one would say Placentia or Plaisance of a British word Mewithau and that their Poets the Bardi so named it because of all others it best pleased the Princes of Wales in times past It is seated upon an Hill of a reddish earth and Severn having two very faire Bridges upon it gathering himselfe in manner round in forme of a circle so compasseth it that were it not for a small banke of firme land it might goe for an Island And thence it is that Leland the Antiquarian Poet wrote thus Edita Penguerni latè fastigia splendent Urbs sita lunatâ— veluti
in British called Castle Hean that is The Old Castle and in English The Old Towne A poore small Village now but this new name is a good proofe for the antiquity thereof for in both tongues it soundeth as much as an Old Castle or towne Next unto this Old Towne Alterynnis lieth in manner of a River-Island insulated within waters the seat in old time of that ancient family of the Sitsilts or Cecils knights whence my right honourable Patron accomplished with all the ornaments of vertue wisdome and Nobility Sir William Cecil Baron of Burghley and Lord high Treasurer of England derived his descent From hence Munow turning Eastward for a good space separateth this Country from Monmouth-shire and at Castle Map-harald or Harold Ewias is encreased with the River Dor. This Ewias Castle that I may speake out of K. William the First his Booke was repaired by Alured of Marleberg Afterwards it pertained to one Harold a Gentleman who in a Shield argent bare a Fesse Geules betweene three Estoiles Sable for his Armes of whom it beganne to bee called Harold Ewias but Sibyll his niece in the second degree and one of the heires by her marriage transferred it to the Lords of Tregoz froÌ„ whom it came at length to the Lords of Grandison descended out of Burgundie But of them elsewhere Now the said Dor which running downe froÌ„ the North by Snodhill a Castle and the Barony sometime of Robert Chandos where is a quary of excellent marble cutteth through the midst of the Vale which of the River the Britans call Diffrin Dore but the Englishmen that they might seeme to expresse the force of that word termed it the Gilden Vale which name it may by good right and justly have for the golden wealthy and pleasant fertility thereof For the hils that compasse it in on both sides are clad with woods under the woods lie corne fields on either hand and under those fields most gay and gallant medowes then runneth in the midst between them a most cleere and crystall River on which Robert Lord of Ewias placed a faire Monastery wherein most of the Nobility and Gentry of these parts were interred Part of this shire which from this Vale declineth and bendeth Eastward is now called Irchenfeld in Domesday Booke Archenfeld which as our Historians write was layed wast with fire and sword by the Danes in the yeere 715. at what time Camalac also a Britan Bishop was carried away prisoner In this part stood Kilpeck a Castle of great name and the seat it was of the noble Family of the Kilpecks who were as some say the Champions to the Kings of England in the first age of the Normans And I my selfe also will easily assent unto them In the Raigne of Edward the First there dwelt heere Sir Robert Wallerond whose nephew Alane Plugenet lived in the honourable state of a Baron In this Archenfeld likewise as wee reade in Domesday booke certaine revenewes by an old custome were assigned to one or two Priests on this condition that they should goe in Embassages for the Kings of England into Wales and to use the words out of the same booke The men of Archenfeld whensoever the Army marcheth forward against the enemy by a custome make the Avantgard and in the returne homeward the Rereward As Munow runneth along the lower part of this shire so Wy with a bending course cutteth over the middest upon which River in the very West limit Clifford Castle standeth which William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built upon his owne West as it is in King William the Conquerours booke but Raulph de Todenay held it Afterward it seemeth to have come unto Walter the sonne of Richard Fitz Punt a Norman for he was sirnamed De Clifford and from him the right honorable family of the Earles of Cumberland doe truly deduce their descent But in the daies of King Edward the First John Giffard who married the heire of Walter L. Clifford had it in his hands Then Wy with a crooked and winding streame rolleth downe by Whitney which hath given name to a worshipfull Family and by Bradwardin Castle which gave both originall and name to that famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury who for his variety of knowledge and profound learning was in that age tearmed The Profound Doctour and so at length commeth to Hereford the head City of this Country How farre that little Region Archenfeld reached I know not but the affinity betweene these names Ereinuc Archenfeld the towne ARICONIUM of which Antonine in the description of this Tract maketh mention and Hareford or Hereford which now is the chiefe City of the Shire have by little and little induced mee to this opinion that I thinke every one of these was derived from ARICONIUM Yet doe I not thinke that Ariconium and Hereford were both one and the same but like as Basil in Germany chalenged unto it the name of Augusta Rauracorum and Baldach in Assyria the name of Babylon â—or that as one had originall from the ruines of Babylon so the other from the ruines of Augusta even so this Hariford of ours for so the common people call it derived both name and beginning in mine opinion from his neighbour old ARICONIUM which hath at this day no shape or shew at all of a Towne as having beene by report shaken to peeces with earthquake Onely it reteineth still a shadow of the name being called Kenchester and sheweth to the beholders some ruines of walles which they tearme Kenchester walles about which are often digged up foure square paving stones of Checker worke British-brickes peeces of Romane money and other such like remaines of Antiquity But Hereford her daughter which more expressly resembleth the name thereof standeth Eastward scarce three Italian miles from it seated among most pleasant medowes and as plentifull corne fields compassed almost round about with Rivers on the North side and on the West with one that hath no name on the South side with Wy thath hastneth hither out of Wales It is thought to have shewed her head first what time as the Saxons Heptarchie was in the flower and prime built as some write by King Edward the Elder neither is there as farre as I have read any memory thereof more ancient For the Britans before the name of Hereford was knowne called the place Tresawith of Beech trees and Hereford of an Old way and the Saxons themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of ferns The greatest encrease if I be not deceived that it had came by Religion and by the Martyrdome of Ethelbert King of the East England Who when he wooed himselfe the daughter of Offa K. of the Mercians was villanously forlaid and murdered by the procurement of Quendred Offaes wife respecting more the countries of the East England than the honest and honorable match of her daughter which Ethelbert being registred in
the Catalogue of Martyrs had a Church here built and dedicated unto him by Milfrid a pety K. of the country wherein when a Bishops See was established it grew to great wealth first through the devout liberality of the Mercians and then of the West Saxons kings for they at length were possessed of this City as may be gathered out of William of Malmesbury where he writeth That Athelistan the West Saxon brought the Lords of Wales in this City of so hard passe that by way of Tribute they were to pay every yeere besides Hounds and Haukes twenty pounds of gold and three hundred pound of silver by weight This Citie as farre as I can reade had never any misfortune unlesse it were in the yeere of our Lord 1055. wherein Gruffith Prince of South Wales and Algar an English man rebelling against King Edward the Confessour after they had put to flight Earle Ralph sacked the Citie destroyed the Cathedrall Church and led away captive Leofgar the Bishop But Harold straightwaies after that hee and daunted their audacious courage fensed it as Floriacensis saith with a broade and high Rampier Hence it is that Malmesbury writeth thus in his treatise of Bishops Hereford is no great Citie and yet by the height of those steepe and upright bankes cast up it sheweth that it hath beene some great thing and as wee reade in the Domesday booke of King William the Conquerour there were in all but an hundered and three men within the Walles and without The Normans afterwards neere the East end of the Church along the side of Wy built a mighty great and strong Castle the worke as some report of Earle Miles which now yeeldeth to Time and runneth to ruine After this they walled the Citie about Bishop Reinelm in the reigne of Henry the First founded that beautifull Cathedrall Church which now we see there whose successours enlarged it by adioyning thereto a proper Colledge for Priests and faire houses for the Prebendaries For besides the Bishop who hath 302. Churches in his Dioecese there are in this Church a Deane two Archdeacons a Chaunter a Chauncellour 2 Treasurer and eight and twenty Prebendaries In the Church I saw in manner no Monuments but the Bishops Tombes And I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop a man of Noble birth had here a very stately and sumptuous Sepulcher who for his holinesse being canonized a Saint went within a little of surmounting that princely Martyr King Ethelbert such was the opinion of singular pietie and devotion Geographers measure the position or site of this Citie by the Longitude of twenty degrees and foure and twenty scruples and by the Latitude of two and fifty degrees and sixe scruples Wy is not gone full three miles from hence but he intercepteth by the way the river Lug who running downe a maine out of Radnor hils with a still course passeth through the mids of this country from the North-west of the South-east At the first entrance it seeth a farre off Brampton Brian Castle which a famous family named hereof de Brampton wherein the forname was usually Brian held by continuall succession unto the time of King Edward the First but now by the female heires it is come to R. Harleie neere at hand it beholdeth Wigmore in the English Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 repaired in elder times by King Edward the elder afterward fortified by William Earle of Hereford with a Castle in the wast of a ground for so reade we in Domesday booke which was called Marestun in the tenure of Radulph de Mortimer from whom those Mortimers that were afterwards Earles of March lineally descended of whom you may reade more in Radnor-shire Three miles off there is another neighbour Castle called Richards Castle the possession first of the Sayes then of the Mortimers and afterwards of the Talbots by hereditarie succession At length by the heires of Sir Iohn Talbot the inheritance was divided betweene Sir Guarin Archdeacon and Sir Matthew Gurnay Beneath this Castle Nature who no where disporteth her selfe more in shewing wonders then in waters hath brought forth a pretty well which is alwaies full of little bones or as some thinke of small frog-bones although they be from time to time drawne quite out of it whence it is commonly called Bone well And not farre off is placed Croft Castle the possession of that very ancient family of the Crofts Knights who have there now a long time flourished in great and good esteeme Thence passeth Wy to Lemster which also was called Leon Minister and Lions Monastery of a Lyon that appeared to a religious man in a vision as some have dreamed But whereas the Britans call it Lhan Lieni which signifieth a Church of Nunnes and that it is certainely knowne that Merewalc a King of the Mercians built here a Church for Nunnes that afterwards became a Cell belonging to the Monastery of Reading to seeke any other originall of the name than from those Nunnes what were it else but to hunt after the windes Yet there want not some who derive it from Line whereof the best kinde groweth here The greatest name and same that it hath at this day is of the wooll in the territories round about Lemister Ore they call it which setting aside that of Apulia and Tarentum all Europe counteth to be the very best so renowned also it is for Wheat and bread of the Finest floure that Lemster bread and Weabley Ale a towne belonging to the noble Familie D'Eureux are growne unto a common proverbe By reason of these commodities the mercates at Lemster were so frequented that they of Hereford and Worcester complaining that the confluence of people thither impaired their mercates procured that by Royall authoritie the mercat day was changed Now have I nothing more concerning Lemster but that William Breosa Lord of Brecknock when hee revolted from King John did set it on fire and defaced it As for that Webley aforesaid it is situate more within the Country and was the Baronie of the Verdons the first of which house named Bertram de Verdon came into England with the Normans whose posteritie by marriage with an inheretrice of Laceies of Trim in Ireland were for a good while hereditary Constables of Ireland and at last the possessions were by the daughters devolved to the Furnivalls Burghersh Ferrars of Groby Crop-hulls and from the Crop-hulls by the Ferrars of Chartly unto D'Eureux Earles of Essex Neere neighbours unto Webley more Westward are these places Huntingdon Castle the possession in times past of the Bohuns Earles of Hereford and of Essex Kinnersley belonging to the auncient Family De la-bere and Erdsley where the auncient Family of the Baskervills have long inhabited which bred in old time so many worthie Knights who deduce their pedigree from a Neice of Dame Gunora that most famous Lady in Normandy and long agoe flourished in this Country and
Towne hath flourished and beene of name in regard of their priviledges and immunities granted unto them by the Family of Lancaster But for no one thing it is so much renowned as for this that it was the birth place of King Henry the Fifth that Triumpher over France and the second ornament of English Nation That Henry I say who by force of armes and military prowesse maugre the French conquered France and brought Charles the Sixth King of France to that extremity that after a sort he surrendred up his Crowne unto him In regard of whose successe and fortunate exploits in Warre John Seward a Poet in those dayes not of the lowest ranke in a joily lofty verse thus speaketh to the English Ite per extremum Tanain pigrósque Triones Ite per arentem Lybiam superate calores Solis arcanos Nili deprendite fontes Hercâ—leum finem Bacchi transcurrite metas Angli juris erit quicquid complectitur orbis Anglis rubra dabunt pretiosas aequora conchas Indus ebur ramos Panchaia vellera Seres Dum viget Henricus dum noster vivit Achilles Est etenim laudes longè transgressus avitas Passe on to Tanais farre remote to frozen Northren Coast Through Libye dry beyond the line where Sunnes heat parcheth most On forth and finde where all the springs of Nilus hidden lie Those pillers fixt by Hercules and bounds that mount on hie Surpasse the Limit-markes also which father Bacchus pight For why what all the earth containes is under Englands right To English shall the Red Sea yeeld the pretious pearely wilke Indy yvory sweet-frank-incense Panchaea Seres silke Whiles Henry lives that Champion Achilles-like of ours For he the praises farre surmounts of his Progenitours Monmouth glorieth also that Geffrey Ap Arthur or Arthurius Bishop of Asaph the compiler of the British History was borne and bred there a man to say truth well skilled in antiquities but as it seemeth not of antique credite so many toies and tales hee every where enterlaceth out of his owne braine as he was charged while hee lived in so much as now hee is ranged among those Writers whom the Roman Church hath censured to be forbidden From hence Wy with many windings and turnings runneth downe Southward yeelding very great plenty of delicate Salmons from September to April And is at this day the bound betweene Glocester-shire and Monmouth-shire in times past betweene the Welsh and Englishmen according to this Verse of Nechams making Inde vagos vaga Cambrenses hinc respicit Anglos By Wales on this side runneth Wy And of the other England he doth eye Who when he is come almost unto his mouth runneth by Chepstow that is if one interprete it after the Saxons tongue a Mercat The Britans call it Castle-went A famous Towne this is and of good resort situate upon the side of an Hill rising from the very River fortified round about with a Wall of a large circuite which includes within it both fields and orchyards It hath a very spacious Castle situate over the River and just against it stood a Priory the better part whereof being pulled downe the rest is conuerted into a Parish Church As for the Bridge that standeth over Wy it is of timber and very high built because the River at every tide riseth to a great heigth The Lords hereof were the Earles of Pembroch out of the Family of Clare who of Strighull Castle their seat a little way off were commonly called Earles of Strighull and of Pembrock The last of whom named Richard a man of an invincible courage and having wonderfull strong armes and long withall sirnamed Strongbow because hee shot in a bow of exceeding great bent and did nothing but with strong arme was the first that by his valour made way for the English into Ireland By a daughter of his it came to the Bigots c. but now it belongeth to the Earles of Worcester This Towne is not very ancient to speake of For many there bee that constantly affirme and not without good reason that not many ages agoe it had his beginning from VENTA a very ancient City that in the daies of Antonine the Emperor flourished about foure miles hence Westward and was named VENTA SILURUM as one would say the principall City of the Silures Which name neither hostile fury nor length of time hath as yet discontinued for it is called even at this day Caer went that is The City Went. But as for the City it selfe either time or hostility hath so carryed it away that now were it not onely for the ruinate walles the checker worke pavements and peeces of Roman money it would not appeare there was such a City It tooke up in compasse above a mile on the South side a great part of the Wall standeth and there remaine little better than the rubbish of three Bulwarks And yet of how great account it was in ancient times wee may gather if it were but by this that before the name of Monmouth once heard of all this whole Country was of it called Guent Went-set and Wents-land Moreover as wee reade in the life of Tathaius a British Saint it was an Academy that is to say a place dedicated to the study of good letters which the said Tathaie whom King Caradock the sonne of Inirius procured to come thither out of the desert wildernesse governed with great commendation and there founded a Church Five miles from hence Westward is seated Strighull Castle at the foote of the mountaines we call it at this day Strugle the Normans named it Estrighill which as wee reade in King William the First his Domesday booke William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built and afterwards it became the seat of the Earles of Pembrock out of the house of Clare Whereupon they were usually called Earles of Strighull as I even now intimated Beneath these places upon the Severn sea nere unto Wy-mouth standeth Portskeweth which Marianus nameth Potescith who hath recorded that Harald in the yeere 1065. erected a Fort there against the Welshmen which they streightwaies under the conduct of Caradock overthrew And adjoyning to it is Sudbrok the Church wherof called Trinity Chappell standeth so neere the sea that the vicinity of so tyrannous a neighbour hath spoiled it of halfe the Church-yarde as it hath done also of an old Fortification lying thereby which was compassed with a triple Ditch and three Rampiers as high as an ordinary house cast in forme of a bowe the string whereof is the sea-cliffe That this was a Romane worke the Britaine brickes and Romane coines there found are most certaine arguments among which the Reverend Father in God Francis Bishop of Landaffe by whose information I write this imparted unto me of his kindnesse one of the greatest peeces that ever I saw coined of Corinthian copper by the City of Elaia in the lesser Asia to the honour of the Emperour Severus
after he had rebelled against Rhese his Prince and not able to make his part good with him very rashly and inconsiderately which hee afterward repented too late sent Enion a Nobleman to whom he had affianced his daughter to procure Robert Fitz Haimon sonne to Haimon Dentatus Lord of Corboil in Normandy to come out of England and aide him against Rhese who forthwith having mustered certaine forces and taking for to associate him in his journey twelve Knights first gave Rhese Battaile and slew him and afterwards being allured with the fertility of the Country whereof before hand he made full account to be Lord turning his power upon Jestine himselfe because hee had not kept touch with Enion nor performed his promise easily thrust him out of his ancient Inheritance and shared the Country among his Companions The hard and barraine hill Country he granted to the said Enion the more fertile parts he divided betweene him and those twelve Knights whom he tearmed Peres on this condition that they should hold them in Fee and vassallage of him as their chiefe Lord to maintaine one another in common with their aides and auxiliary forces to defend every one his owne Ward in his Castle of Caerdiffe and to bee present and assist him in his Courts in the administration of Justice It shall not be amisse to put downe their names out of a little Pamphlet which Sir Edward Stradling or Sir Edward Mounsel both Knights men of ancient descent and most skilfull in Antiquity I wot not whether for it goeth abroad under both their names wrote concerning this matter And these be their names William of London or de Londres Richard Granvil Pain Turbervill Oliver Saint John Robert de Saint Quintin Roger Bekeroul William Easterling for that he was borne in Germanie whose heires are now called Stradlings Gilbert Hamfranvill Richard Siward John Fleming Peter Soore Reinald Sully The River Remnie falling from the Mountaines is the limite on the East side whereby this Country is divided from Monmouth-shire and Remnie in the British tongue signifieth to Divide Not farre from it where the River holdeth on his course through places hardly passable among the hilles in a Marish ground are to bee seene the tottering walles of Caer-philli Castle which hath beene of so huge a bignesse and such a wonderfull peece of worke beside that all men well neere say it was a garison for t of the Romans Neither will I deny it although I cannot as yet perceive by what name they called it and yet it may seeme to have beene re-edified anew considering it hath a Chappell built after the Christians manner as I was enformed by John Sanford a man singular well learned and of exact judgement who diligently tooke view of it In later ages it was the possession of the Clares Earles of Glocester descended from Fitz-Haimon aforesaid neither doe any of our Chronicles make mention thereof before king Edward the Seconds time For then after that the Spensers by underhand practises had set the King Queene and Barons at debate the Barons besieged a long time Hugh Spenser the yonger whom they called Hugolin herein and could not prevaile By this river also but the place is not certainely knowne Faustus a very good sonne as Ninnius writeth of Vortigern so bad a father built a great Place where with other holy men hee prayed daily unto God that himselfe whom his father committing most abominable incest had begotten of his owne daughter might not be punished grievously for his fathers faults also that his father might at length repent heartily and his native Country be eased from the bloudy warres of the Saxons A little beneath hath Ptolomee placed the mouth of RATOSTABIUS or RATOSTABIUS using a maimed word in stead of Traith Taff that is The sandy Trith of the River Taff. For there the said River Taff sliding downe from the Hilles runneth toward the Sea by Landaff that is The Church by Taff a small City and of small reputation situate somewhat low yet a Bishops See having within the Dioecesse 154. Parishes and adorned with a Cathedrall Church consecrated to Saint Telean Bishop of the same which Church German and Lupus French Bishops then erected when as they had suppressed the Heresie of Pelagius that was dangerously spread all Britaine over and preferred Dubricius a most holy man to bee the first Bishop there unto whom Meurioke a British Lord freely gave all the land that lyeth betweene the Rivers Taff and Elei From hence goeth Taff to Caer diff called of the Britans Caerdid a proper fine Towne as Townes goe in this Country and a very commodious Haven which the foresaid Fitz Haimon fortified with a Wall and Castle that it might bee both a seat for warre and a Court of Justice wherein beside a Band of choise soldiers those twelve Knights were bound to keepe Castle-guard Howbeit a few yeeres after Yuor Bach a British Mountainer a little man of person but of great and resolute courage marching with a Band of men by night without any stirre suddenly surprised tooke Prisoner William Earle of Glocester Fitz Haimons daughters sonne together with his wife and young sonne and detained them in hold with him untill he had made him full satisfaction for all wrongs and losses But how Robert Curthose William the Conquerours eldest sonne a man over venterous and foole hardy in warlique exploits quite put by his hope of the Crowne of England by his younger brethren and bereft of both his eyes lived untill he was an old man in this Castle you may see if you please in our Historians and understand withall that royall Parentage is never assured either of ends or safe security Scarce three miles from the mouth of Taff in the very bending in of the shore there lye aflote as it were two small but pleasant Islands separated one from another and from the maine Land with narrow in-lets of the Sea The hithermore is called Sullie of the Towne right over against it which tooke the name as it is thought of Robert Sully for it fell to his part in the division if you would not rather have him to take his name of it The farther more is named Barry of Baruch an holy man buried there who as he gave name to the place so the place gave the sirname afterwards to the Lords thereof For that noble Family of Vicounts Barries in Ireland had their originall from hence In a Rocke or cliffe heereof by the sea side saith Giraldus there appeareth a very little chincke into which if you lay your eare you shall heare a noise as it were of Smithes at worke one while the blowing of bellowes another while the striking of sledge and hammer sometime the sound of the Grindstone and iron tooles rubbing against it the hissing sparkes also of steele-gads within holes as they are beaten yea and the puffing noise of fire burning in the
withdrawne it selfe more inwardly Upon this Bay Kidwelly first offereth it selfe to our sight the Territory whereof Kâ—tani the Scot his sonnes held for a time untill they were driven out by Cuneda the Britan. But now it is counted part of the inheritance of the Dutchy of Lancaster by the heires of Maurice of London or De Londres who making an outroad hither out of Glamorgan-shire after a dangerous war made himselfe Lord heereof and fortified old Kidwelly with a wall and Castle to it which now for very age is growne to decay and standeth as it were forlet and forlorne For the Inhabitants having passed over the little River Vendraeth Vehan built a new Kidwelly entised thither by the commodity of the haven which notwithstanding at this day being choked with shelves and barres is at this present of no great use Whiles Maurice of London invaded these parts Guenliana the wife of Prince Gruffin a stout and resolute woman in the highest degree to recover the losses and declining state of her husband came with displaied banner into the field and fiercely assailed him but the successe not answerable to her courage shee with her sonne Morgan and other men of especiall note as Girald recordeth was slaine in battaile By Hawis or Avis the daughter and heire of Sir Thomas of London this passing faire and large patrimony together with the Title of Lord of Ogmor and Kidwelly came unto Patricke-Chaworth and by his sonne Patrickes daughter unto Henry Earle of Lancaster Now the heires of the said Maurice of London as we learne out of an old Inquisition for this inheritance were bound to this service that if their Soveraigne Lord the King or his chiefe Justice came into the parts about Kidwelly with an Army they should conduct the foresaid Army with their banners and their people through the middest of Nethland as farre as to Loghar A few miles beneath Kidwelly the River Tovie which Ptolomee calleth TOBIUS falleth into the the Sea after he hath passed through this Region from North-East to South first by Lanandiffry so called as men thinke of Rivers meeting together which Hoel the sonne of Rhese overthrew for malice that hee bare unto the English then by Dinevor a princely Castle standing aloft upon the top of an hill and belonging unto the Princes of South Wales whiles they flourished and last of all by Caer Marden which the Britans themselves call Caer-Firdhin Ptolomee MARIDUNUM Antonine MURIDUNUM who endeth his Journeies there and through negligence of the transcribers is in this place not well used For they have confounded the Journeies from Galena to Isca and from Maridunum to Viriconium This is the chiefe City of the country for medowes and woods pleasant and in regard of antiquity to be respected Compassed about very properly as Giraldus saith with bricke walles which are partly yet standing upon the famous river Tovit able to beare small ships although there be now a barre of sand cast up against the very mouth thereof In this City was borne the Tages of the Britans I meane Merlin For like as Tages being the sonne of an evill Angell taught his Countrimen the Tuscans the art of Sooth saying so this Merlin the sonne of an Incubus Spirit devised for our Britans prophesies nay rather meere phantasticall dreames Whereby in this Island he hath been accounted among the credulous and unskilfull people a most renowned Prophet Straight after the Normans entring into Wales this City was reduced but I wot not by whose conduct under their subjection and for a long time sore afflicted with many calamities and distresses being oftentimes assaulted once or twice set on fire first by Gruffin ap Rise then by Rise the said Gruffins brother at which time Henry Turbervill an Englishman succoured the Castle and hewed downe the Bridge But afterwards by the meanes of Gilbert de Clare who fortified both the walles thereof and the Castles adjoyning it was freed from these miseries and being once eased of all grievances and in security endured afterwards more easily from time to time the tempests of warre and all assaults And the Princes of Wales of the English bloud I meane the first begotten sonnes of the Kings of England ordained heere their Chauncery and Exchequer for all South Wales Neere unto this City on the East side lyeth Cantred-Bichan that is The lesse Hundred for the Britans terme a portion of land that containeth 100. Villages a Cantred in which beside the ruines of Careg Castle situate upon a Rocke rising on every side steepe and upright there are many under-mines or caves of very great widenesse within the ground now covered all over with green-sord and turfe wherein it is thought the multitude unable to beare armes hid themselves during the heate of warre there is also heere a Fountaine that as Giraldus writeth Twice in foure and twenty houres ebbing and twice flowing resembleth the unstable motions of the maine Sea But on the North-East side there stretcheth it selfe a great way out Cantredmaur that is The great hundred a most safe refuge for the Britans in times past as being thicke set with woods combersome to travaile in by reason the waies are intricate by the windings in and out of the hils Southward stand Talcharn and Lhan-Stephan Castles upon rockes of the Sea which are most notable witnesses of martiall valour and prowesse as well in the English as in the Welsh Beneath Talcharn Taff sheddeth it selfe into the Sea by the side whereof was in times past that famous Twy Gwin ar Taff that is The white house upon the River Taff because it was built of white Hazels for a summer house where in the yeere of our Redemption 914. Hoel sirnamed Dha that is Good Prince of Wales in a frequent Assembly of his States for there met there beside others of the Clergie one hundred and forty abrogated the ancient ordinances and established new lawes for his Subjects as the Prooeme to the very lawes themselves doe witnesse In which place afterward a little Abbay named White land was built Not farre from whence is Killmayn Lhoyd where of late daies certaine country people hapned upon an earthen Vessell in which was hourded a mighty deale of Romane Coine of embased silver from the time of Commodus the Romane Emperour who first embased silver unto the fifth Tribuneship of Gordian the third which fell just with the yeere of Christ 243. Among these were certaine peeces of Helvius Pertinax of Marcus Opellius of Antoninus Diadumenianus of Julius Verus Maximus the sonne of Maximinus of Calius Balbivus of Clodius Pupienus of Aquilia Severa the wife of Elagabalus and of Sall. Barbia Orbiana which among Antiquaries are of greatest price and estimation as being most rare of all others Now it remaineth that I should relate how upon the river Tivy that separateth this County from Cardigan-shire there standeth New-Castle for so they call
up under his feete by report to an hillocke Thus farre and somewhat farther also Tivie holdeth on his course Southward to Lan-Beder a little Mercate Towne From hence Tivie turning his streame Westward carryeth a broader chanell and neere unto Kilgarran falleth downe right headlong as it were from aloft and maketh that Salmons Leape whereof I spake ere while For exceeding great store of Salmons it yeeldeth and was in times past the onely British River as Giraldus Cambrensis was of opinion that had Bevers in it This Beaver is a creature living both on land and water footed before like a Dog and behinde like a Goose with an ash-coloured skin somewhat blackish having a long taile broad and griftly which in his floting he useth in lieu of a sterne Concerning the subtile wilinesse of which creatures the said Giraldus hath observed many things but at this day none of them are heere to be seene Scarce two miles from hence standeth upon a steepe banke Cardigan which the Britans name Aber-Tivy that is Tivy-mouth the Shire-towne strongly fortified by Gilbert the sonne of Richard De Clare which afterwards being by treason yeelded up Rhise Ap Gruffin rased when hee had taken prisoner Robert Fitz-Stephen whom some call Stephanides who after hee had stood a long time at the devotion of the Welshmen his heavie friends for his life being at length delivered on this condition that hee should resigne up into their hands all his possessions in Wales was the first of the Norman race that with a small power of men fortunately set foote in Ireland and by his valour made way for the English to follow and second him for subduing Ireland under the Crowne of England From Tivie mouth the shore gently giveth backe and openeth for it selfe the passage of many Riverets among which in the upper part of the Shire STUCCIA whereof Ptolomee maketh mention is most memorable when as the name of it continueth after a sort whole at this day being called in common speech Ystwith at the head whereof are veines of Lead and at the mouth the Towne Aber-y-stwith the most populous and plenteous place of the whole Shire which that noble Gilbert de Clare also fensed with walles and Walter Bec an Englishman defended a great while against the Welsh right manfully Hard hereunto lyeth Lhan Badern vaur that is The Church of Patern the great who being borne in little Britaine as wee reade in his life both governed the Church by feeding and fed it by governing Unto whose memory the posterity consecrated heere as well a Church as also an Episcopall See But the Bishopricke as Roger Hoveden writeth quite decayed many yeeres since when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour At the same mouth also the River Ridol dischargeth it selfe into the Irish sea This River descending out of Plinlimon an exceeding steepe and high hill that encloseth the North part of the Shire and powreth out of his lap those most noble Rivers Severn and Wy whereof I have already often spoken And not much above Y-stwith mouth the River Devi that serveth in stead of a limite betweene this and Merionith-shire is lodged also within the Sea Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine when they assailed this Coast with a Fleet by Sea and that verily with good successe For by little and little in the Raigne of King William Rufus they wrested the maritime Coasts out of the Welshmens hands but the greatest part thereof they granted unto Cadugan Ap Blethin a right wise and prudent Britain who was highly esteemed and of great power throughout all Wales and evermore shewed much favour and friendship to the English But when his sonne Oën a furious and heady young man who could at no hand away with peace infested the Englishmen and Flemings newly come thither with continuall invations the unhappy father was fined with the losse of his lands and punished for the offenses of his sonne who was himselfe also constreined to relinquish his native Country and to flie into Ireland Then this Cardigan-shire was given by King Henry the First unto Gilbert de Clare who placed Garisons and fortified Castles there But Cadugan with his sonne Oën received into favour againe by the English recovered also his owne lands and inheritance But Oën returning to his old bias and rebelling afresh was slaine by Girald the Castellan of Penbroke whose wife Nesta he had carryed away and ravished And his father being had away into England long expected for a change of better fortune and at length in his old age being restored to his owne home and friends was upon the sodaine by Madoc his Nephew stabbed through the body After this Roger de Clare through the liberality of King Henry the Second had Cardigan-shire bestowed upon him but when Richard of Clare his Nephew if I be not deceived whiles he came hither by land was slaine by the Welsh Rhise Prince of South-Wales having made a great massacre of English and driven them out at length with his victorious Army became Lord thereof neverthelesse it fell againe by little and little into the hands of the English without any bloudshed There are in this Shire Parishes 64. ORDEVICES THese Countries of the Silures and Dimetae which wee have hitherto travailed over the Posterity when Wales was subject to three Princes called in their tongue Deheu-barth that is The part lying on the right hand and Englishmen South-Wales as â—ath beene said before The other two Principalities which they tearme Guineth and Powis wee North-Wales and Powisland were inhabited in ancient times by the ORDOVICES who also bee named ORDEVICES ORDOVICAE and in some places although most corruptly Ordolucae A puissant and courageous Nation by reason they keepe wholly in a mountainous Country and take heart even of the Soile and which continued the longest free from the yoake both of Romanes and also of English dominion neither was it subdued by the Romanes before the daies of the Emperour Domitiane For then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation nor brought under the English before the dayes of King Edward the First For a long time they lived in a lawlesse kinde of liberty as bearing themselves bold both upon their owne valour and the strength of the Country hard to be wonne and which may seeme after a sort naturally accommodated for ambushments and to prolong warres To lay out and limite the bounds of the ORDEVICES in a generality is not so hard a matter but to set downe the true etymologie and reason of their name I thinke it very difficult Yet have I conceived this coniecture that seeing they were seated over the two Rivers Devi that arising from two springs neere together take their course divers waies and considering that Oar-Devi in their British tongue signifieth Vpon or above Devi they were thence named Ordevices like as the Aruerni had that name because they dwelt upon the river
last Baron of this race made it over as I have said already to Isabell Queene of England wife to King Edward the Second Howbeit the possession of the Castle was transferred afterward to the Stanleys now Earles of Darby Through the South part of this Shire lying beneath these places above named wandereth Aleâ— a little River neere unto which in an hill hard by Kilken a small village there is a Well The water whereof at certaine set times riseth and falleth after the manner of the Sea-tides Upon this Alen standeth Hope Castle in Welsh Caer-Gurle in which King Edward the First retired himselfe when the Welshmen had upon the sudden set upon his souldiers being out of array and where good milstones are wrought out of the rocke also Mold in Welsh Guid Cruc a Castle belonging in ancient time to the Barons of Monthault both which places shew many tokens of Antiquity Neere unto Hope a certaine Gardiner when I was first writing this worke digging somewhat deepe into the ground happened upon a very ancient peece of worke concerning which there grew many divers opinions of sundry men But hee that will with any diligence reade M. Vitruvius Pollio shall very well perceive it was nothing else but a Stouph or hote house begunne by the Romanes who as their riotous excesse grew together with their wealth used Bathes exceeding much In length it was five elns in breadth foure and about halfe an eln deepe enclosed with Walles of hard stone the paving layed with bricke pargetted with lime morter the arched roofe over it supported with small pillars made of bricke which roofe was of tiles pargetted over likewise very smoothe having holes heere and there through it wherein were placed certaine earthen pipes of Potters worke by which the heate was conveyed and so as hee saith Volvebant hypocausta vaporem that is the Stuples did send away a waulming hote vapour And who would not thinke this was one of these kindes of worke which Giraldus wondered at especially in Isca writing thus as he did of the Romanes workes That saith hee which a man would judge among other things notable there may you see on every side Stouphs made with marveilous great skill breathing out heate closely at certaine holes in the sides and narrow tunnels Whose worke this was the tiles there did declare being imprinted with these words LEGIO XX. that is The twentieth Legion which as I have shewed already before abode at Chester scarce sixe miles a side from hence Neere unto this River Alen in a certaine streight set about with woods standeth Coles-hull Giraldus tearmeth it Carbonarium collem that is Coles Hill where when King Henry the Second had made preparation with as great care as ever any did to give Battaile unto the Welsh the English by reason of their disordered multitude drawing out their Battalions in their rankes and not ranged close in good array lost the Field and were defeited yea and the very Kings standerd was forsaken by Henry of Essex who in right of inheritance was Standerd-bearer to the Kings of England For which cause he being afterwards charged with treason and by his challenger overcome in combate had his goods confiscate and seized into the Kings hands and he displeased with himselfe for his cowardise put on a coule and became a Monke Another little parcell there is of this Shire on this side the River Dee dismembred as it were from this which the English call English Mailor Of this I treated in the County of Chester whiles I spake of Bangor and there is no reason to iterate the same heere which hath beene already spoken of before Neither doth it afford any thing in it worth the reporting unlesse it be Han-meere by ae Meres side whereof a right ancient and worshipfull Family there dwelling tooke their sirname The Earles of Chester as they skirmished by occasions and advantage of opportunity with the Welsh were the first Normans that brought this Country under their subjection whereupon wee reade in ancient Records The County of Flint appertaineth to the Dignity of the sword of Chester and the eldest sonnes of the K.K. of England were in old time stiled by the Title of Earles of Chester and of Flint But notwithstanding King Edward the First supposing it would bee very commodious both for the maintenance of his owne power and also to keepe under the Welsh held in his owne hands both this and all the sea Coast of Wales As for the in-land Countries he gave them to his Nobles as he thought good following herein the policie of the Emperour Augustus who undertooke himselfe to governe the Provinces that were strongest and lay outmost but permitted Proconsuls by lot to rule the rest Which he did in shew to defend the Empire but in very deed to have all the armes and martiall men under his owne command In this County of Flint there be Parishes in all 28. PRINCES OF WALES AS concerning the Princes of Wales of British bloud in ancient times you may reade in the Historie of Wales published in print For my part I thinke it requisite and pertinent to my intended purpose to set downe summarily those of latter daies descended from the Roiall line of England King Edward the First unto whom his Father King Henry the Third had graunted the Principalitie of Wales when hee had obtained the Crowne and Lhewellin Ap. Gryffith the last Prince of the British race was slaine and thereby the sinnewes as it were of the Principalitie were cut in the twelfth yeere of his Reigne united the same unto the Kingdome of England And the whole Province sware fealty and allegeance unto Edward of Caernarvon his Sonne whom he made Prince of Wales But King Edward the Second conferred not upon his Sonne Edward the title of Prince of Wales but onely the name of Earle of Chester and of Flint so farre as I ever could learne out of the Records and by that title summoned him to Parliament being then nine yeeres old King Edward the Third first Created his eldest Sonne Edward surnamed the Blacke Prince the Mirour of Chivalry being then Duke of Cornwall and Earle of Chester Prince of Wales by solemne investure with a cap of estate and Coronet set on his head a gold ring put upon his finger and a silver vierge delivered into his hand with the assent of the Parliament who in the very floure of his martiall glory was taken away by untimely death too too soone to the universall griefe of all England Afterwards King Edward the Third invested with the said honour Richard of Burdeaux the said Princes Sonne as heire apparent to the Crowne who was deposed from his Kingdome by King Henry the Fourth and having no issue was cruelly dispatched by violent death The said King Henry the Fourth at the formall request of the Lords and Commons bestowed this Principalitie with the title of Chester and Flint with
gold made him Lord chiefe Baron of his Exchequer conferred upon him the whole Seignorie or Lordship of Holdernes together with other lands belonging unto the Crown and that by the Kings Charter yea and ordained that he should be reputed a Baneret Yet if any man make doubt hereof the Recordes I hope may satisfie him fully in which William De la Pole is in plaine tearmes called Dilectus Valectus et Mercator noster that is Our wellbeloved Valect and our Merchant now Valect to tell you once for all was in those daies an honorable title as well in France as in England but afterward applied unto servants and gromes whereupon when the Gentry rejected it by changing the name they began to bee called Gentlemen of the Bedchamber From Hull a Promontorie runneth on forward and shooteth out a farre into the sea which Ptolomee calleth OCELLVM wee Holdernesse and a certaine monke Cavam Deiram as it were the hollow Country of the Deirians in the same signification that Coelosyria is so tearmed as one would say Holow Syria In this Promontory the first towne wee meet with in the winding shore is Headon in times past if wee list to beleeve fame that useth to amplifie the truth and which for my part I will not discredit risen to exceeding great account by the industry of merchants and sea-faring men from which so uncertaine is the condition as well of places as of people it is so much fallen by the vicinity of Hull and the choaking up of the haven which hath empoverished it that it can shew scarce any whit of the ancient state it had Although King Iohn granted unto Baldwin Earle of Aulbemarle and of Holdernesse and to his wife Hawis free Burgage heere so that the Burgers might hold in free Burgage with those customes that Yorke and Nichol that is Lincolne Yet now it beginneth by little and little to revive againe in hope to recover the former dignity There standeth hard by the Pomontorie an ancient towne which Antonine the Emperour called PRAETORIVM but we in our age Patrington like as the Italians have changed the name of a towne sometime called Praetorium into Petrovina That I doe not mistake herein both the distance from DELGOVITIA and the very name yet remaining doth prove which also in some sort implieth that this is the very same that in Ptolomees copies is written PETVARIA corruptly for Praetorium But whether this name were given it either from Praetorium that is the hall of Justice or from some large and stately house such as the Romans tearmed Praetoria it doth not appeare for certaine The inhabitants glorie much yet as touching their Antiquity and the commodiousnesse of the haven in ancient times and they may as well glorie for the pleasantnesse thereof For it hath a most delectable prospect on the one side lieth the maine sea brimme upon it on the other Humber a famous arme of the sea and over against it the fresh and greene skirtes of Lincoln-shire The high way of the Romans from the Picts wall which Antonine the Emperor followed here endeth For Ulpian hath written that such high waies commonly end at the sea at rivers or at Cities Somewhat lower standeth Winsted the habitation of the Hildeards knights of ancient descent and higher into the Country Rosse from whence the honorable family of the Barons Rosse tooke their name like as they were seated there in times past and hard by the sea-side Grimstons-garth where the Grimstons for a long time have lived in good reputation and a little from hence standeth Rise the mansion house in old time of certaine noble men bearing the name of Falconberg And then in the very necke of the promontorie where it draweth in most narrow into a sharpe point and is called Spurnhead is KELNSEY a little village which plainely sheweth that this is the very OCELLVM mentioned by Ptolomee for as from OCELLVM Kelnsey is derived so Ocellum doubtlesse was made of Y-kill which as I have said before signifieth in the British tongue a Promontory or narrow necke of land From Spurn-head the shore withdraweth it selfe backe by little and little and gently bending inward shooteth Northward by Overthorne and Witherensey two little Churches called of the sisters that built them Sisters kirks and not farre from Constable-Burton so called of the Lords thereof who being by marriages linked to right honorable houses flourish at this day in great worship and out of which familie Robert as wee read in the booke of the Abbay of Meaux was one of the Earle of Aulbemarls knights who being aged and full of daies took upon him the Crosse and went with King Richard in his voiage toward the holy land Then by Skipsey which Dru the first Lord of Holdernesse fortified with a Castle When the shore beginneth to spread againe and beare out into the sea it maketh roome for a bay or creeke that Ptolomee calleth EYAIMENON GABRANTO VICORUM which the Latin Interpreters have translated some PORTUOSVM SINVM that is the barborous Creeke others SALVTAREM that is the safe Creeke But neither of them both better expresseth the nature of the Greeke word than the very name of a little village in the nouke thereof which wee call Sureby For that which is safe and sure from danger the Britans and French men both terme Seur as wee Englishmen sure who peradventure did borrow this word from the Britans There is no cause therefore why we should doubt but that this creeke was that very EYAIMENON of the GABRANTOVICI who dwelt there abouts Hard by standeth Bridlington a towne very well knowne by reason of Iohn of Bridlington a poeticall monkish prophet whose ridiculous prophesies in Rhime I have read albeit they were not worth the reading And not farre from hence for a great length toward Driffield was there a ditch cast up and brought on by the Earles of Holdernesse to confine and bound their lands which they called Earles Dyke But whence this little nation here inhabiting were named GABRANTOVICI I dare not search unlesse happily it were of goates which the Britans tearme Gaffran and whereof there is not greater store in al Britain than hereabout Neither ought this derivation of the name to seeme absurd seeing that Aegira in Achaia borroweth the name of goats Nebrodes in Sicily of fallow Deere and Boeotia in Greece of Kine and Oxen. That little Promontory which with his bent made this creeke is commonly called Flamborough head and in the Saxon tongue Fleam 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Authors who write that Ida the Saxon who first subdued these Countries arrived here Some think it took the name from a watchtowre which did by night put forth a flame or burning light for to direct sailers into the haven For the Britans retaine yet out of the provinciall language this word Flam and Mariners paint this creeke in their sea-cards with a blazing flame on the
upon an horse all trapped with one hand brandishing a sword and in the other holding out the Armes of the Bishopricke The Bishops also have had their royalties and princely rights so that the goods of outlawed and attainted persons out of the Kings protection fell into their hands and not into the Kings yea and the Commons of that Province standing upon their priviledges have refused to serve in warre under the King in Scotland For they pleaded the Story of Duresme shall speake for mee That they were Haliwerke folkes and held their lands to defend the Corps of Saint Cuthbert neither ought they to goe out of the precincts of the Bishopricke namely beyond Tine and Teese for King or Bishop But King Edward the First was the first that abridged them of these liberties For when as he interposed himselfe as Arbitratour betweene the Bishop Antony Bec and the Priour who contended most egerly about certaine lands and they would not stand to his award Hee seised as saith mine Authour the liberty of the Bishopricke into his owne hand and there were many corners searched many flawes found and the Liberty in many points much impaired Howbeit the Church afterward recovered her rights and held them inviolate unto the daies of King Edward the Sixth unto whom upon the dissolution of the Bishopricke the States in Parliament granted all the revenewes and liberties thereof But forthwith Queene Mary by the same authority repealed this Act and restored all things safe and sound unto the Church againe which it enjoyeth at this day For the Bishop James Pilkinton of late time entred his action against Queene Elizabeth about the possessions and goods of Charles Nevill Earle of Westmorland and of others that stood attainted for treason in this precinct because they had most wickedly levied warre against their native Country and he the said Bishop had followed the suit to a triall if the authority of Parliament had not interposed and adjudged the same for that time unto the Queene because to her exceeding great charges she had delivered both Bishop and Bishopricke from the outrage of the Rebels But leaving these matters let us proceed forward to the descripton of places The riuer that boundeth the South part of this country is called by Latin writers Teisis and Teesa commonly Tees by Polydore Virgill the Italian whose minde ranne of Athesis in his owne country Italy without any reason Athesis In Ptolomee it seemeth to be called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and yet I thinke that in him it is removed out of his proper place through the negligence of transcribers For considering that he hath placed TUESIS and TINA in the more remote part of Britaine where the Scots now inhabite and seeing that this Region is enclosed within Tees and Tine If I durst as a Criticke correct that ancient Geographer I would recall them home againe hither into their owne places though they have been long displaced and that with the Scots good leave I hope who have no Rivers upon which they can truely father these names TEES springeth out of that stony country called Stanemore and carrying with him away in his chanell along many brookes and beckes on each side and running through rockes out of which at Egleston where there is a marble Quarroy and where Conan Earle of Britaine and Richmond founded a small Abbay first beateth upon Bernard Castle built and so named by Bernard Balliol the great grandfathers father of John Balliol King of the Scots But this John Balliol whom King Edward the First had declared King of Scotland lost the same with other his possessions because he had broken his alleageance which he sware unto Edward At which time the King being highly displeased with Antony Bishop of Durrham tooke this Castle as witnesseth the booke of Duresme with the appertinences thereto from him and conferred the same upon the Earle of Warwicke as Herkes also and Hertnes which hee gave unto Robert Clifford Kewerston also which hee bestowed upon Geffrey of Hertpole which the Bishop had by the forfeiture of Iohn Baliol Robert Bruse and Christopher Seton But a few yeeres after Lewis Beaumount the Bishop a man royally descended but altogether unlettered brought his action for this Castle and the rest of those possessions and obtained his suite by vertue of judgement given in this tenour The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeiture of Warres within the Liberties of his Bishopricke as the King hath it without Hard by it is Stretlham seene where dwelt for a long time the worshipfull family of the Bowes Knights who from time to time in the greatest troubles have performed passing good service to Prince and Country and derive their pedigree from W. de Bowes unto whom as I have read Alanus Niger Earle of Britaine and Richmond granted that hee might give for his Armes The Scutcheon of Britaine with three bent Bowes therein Not full five miles from hence standeth somewhat farther from Tees banke Standrop which also is called Stainthorpe that is Stony Village a little Mercate Towne where there was a Collegiat Church founded by the Nevills and was their Buriall-place Neere unto it is Raby whch Cnut or Canute the Danish King gave freely unto the Church of Durham together with the land lying round about it and Stanthorpe to be held for ever Since which time as mine Authour informeth mee The Family of the Nevills or De nova villa held Raby of the Church paying yeerely for it foure pounds and a Stagge These Nevilles deduce their Descent from Waltheof Earle of Northumberland out of whose posterity when Robert the sonne of Maldred Lord of Raby had married the daughter of Geffrey Nevill the Norman whose Grandsire Gilbert Nevill is reported to have beene Admirall to King William the Conquerour their succeeding Progeny tooke unto them the name of Nevilles and grew up into a most numerous honourable and mighty house who erected heere a great and spacious Castle which was the first and principall seate These two places Stainthorpe and Raby are severed one from another onely by a little rill which after some few miles runneth into Tees neere unto Selaby where now is the habitation of the Brakenburies a Family of right good note both in regard of their owne Antiquity as also for their marriages contracted with the heires of Denton and of Wicliff Tees passing on from thence by Sockburne the dwelling house of the ancient and noble Family of the Coigniers out of which were the Barons Coigniers of Hornby whose inheritance much bettered by matching in marriage with the heires of the Lord Darcy of Metnill and of William Nevill Earle of Kent and Lord of Fauconberg is descended from them in the memory of our fathers to the Atherstons and the Darcies holdeth his course neere unto Derlington a Mercate Towne of good resort which Seir an English Saxon the sonne of Ulph
have beene discovered lying along So that it may be thought when the ground lay neglected and the chanels were not skoured in those open and flat Valleies for riverets and Brookes to passe away but the water-lades stopped up either through negligence or depopulation that then all the grounds that lay lower than others became such boggy plots as we call Mosses or else standing Meeres Which if it bee true wee neede not mervaile that so many trees in the like places every where throughout England but in this shire especially lie overwhelmed and as it were buried For when their rootes were loosened through over much moisture the trees could not chuse but fall and in such soft ground sinke and bee quite swallowed up They that dwell thereabouts assay and try with poles and spits where they lie hidden and when they light upon them marke the place digge them out and use them for fire wood For they burne cleere and give light as well as torch wood which haply is by reason of a bituminous and clammy fat earth wherein they lye whence the common sort take them for Firres which notwithstanding Caesar denieth to have growne in Britaine I know it is an opinion currant with the most that these trees overturned with the force of waters have lien ever since Noahs Floud when the World was drowned and so much the rather because they are elsewhere digged out of very high places and yet they deny not but those high grounds are very marish and waterish Such mighty trees also are found oftentimes in Holland a Country of Germany which the learned men there suppose were either undermined by waves working into the shore or by windes driven forward and brought unto those lower and moist places where they setled and sunke downe But let the curious company of Philosophers search into these matters to whom I commend them and to their further inquirie whether there are not Subterranean trees growing under earth as well as plants and other Creatures After Chatmosse Holcroft sheweth it selfe which as it afforded the seat so it gave the name also to that right ancient family of the Holcrofts whose estate in old time was much amended by marriage with one of the heires of Culchit a place seated hard by which Gilbert de Culchit held Of the Fee of Almaricke Butler as hee himselfe did of the Earle of Ferrars in King Henry the Third his time Whose eldest daughter and heire when Richard Fitz-Hugh of Hindley had married he assumed to himselfe the name of Culchith like as his brother Thomas who wedded the second daughter was of the possession called Holcroft another also by the same reason was named de Peasfalong and a fourth de Riseley Which I note that the Reader may understand how our Ancestours as they were in other things constant and grave so in leaving and taking up names out of their possessions they were as vaine and variable as might bee But even in other parts of England also this was in old time a thing in usuall practise Heere lie there round about every way little Townes which as throughout this whole County and Cheshire and other Northren parts as they imparted their names to worshipfull houses so they to have their Lords even unto these daies men of the very same name with them As for example Aston of Aston Atherton of Atherton Tillesley of Tillesley Standish of Standish Bold of Bold Hesket of Hesket Worthington of Worthington Torbec of Torbec c. And an endlesse peece of worke it were to name them one by one neither is it any part of my purpose to reckon up all families of name and worship but to take a view and survey of the more ancient places And as vertue and wealth laied the foundations of these and such like Families in these North Countries and elsewhere that I may speake it once for all and provident moderation with simplicity standing contented with their owne estate both preserved and encreased them So in the South part of England riotous expense and superfluity usurious contracts voluptuous and vicious life together with indirect courses and crafty dealings have in short space utterly overthrowne most flourishing houses in so much as men complaine that the offspring of the ancient Gentry hath now a long time faded But Families as plants have their times of encreasing and decreasing I and overpassing this will follow on with the course of Mersey which now by this time runneth downe by Warrington a Towne knowne by reason of the Lords thereof sirnamed Butlers who obtained of King Edward the First the liberty of a Mercate for it From which Northward Winwicke is not farre distant a place among other fat Benefices of England of greatest name in the upmost part of the Church whereof are read these rude Verses engraven in an old Character concerning King Oswald Hic locus Oswalde quondam placuit tibi valde Northanhumbrorum fuer as Rex nuncque Polorum Regna tenes loco passus Marcelde vocato This place sometime thee pleased well Oswald King thou hadst beene once of Northumberland Thou sufferedst in a place Marcelde call'd Thy Kingdome now is heaven that aye doth stand From Warrington the River Mâ—rsey spreading abroad and straightwaies drawing in himselfe againe with a wide and open outlet very commodious for merchandise entreth into the Irish Sea where Litherpoole called in the elder ages 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly Lirpoole is seated so named as it is thought of the water spreading it selfe in manner of a Poole whence there is a convenient passage over into Ireland and much frequented and in that respect more notorious than for any Antiquity For there is no mention extant thereof any where in ancient Writers but that Roger of Poictiers who was Lord as they spake in those dayes of the Honour of Lancaster built a Castle heere Whereof the worthy family of the Molineaux Knights have had the custody now a long time whose chiefe seat is hard by at Sefion which the said Roger of Poictiers gave unto Vivian de Molineaux shortly after the first entry of the Normans For all that Territory betweene the two Rivers Ribel and Mersey the same Roger held as appeareth evidently by the authenticall Record of Domesday booke Neere unto Seston Alt a little River seeketh a way into the Sea and when hee hath found it giveth name to a small Village Attmouth standing by and hath Ferneby neere unto it wherein the moist and mossie soile turffes are digged up which serve the inhabitants for fewell and candle light Under the said turfes there is a certaine dead and blackish water upon which there swimmeth I wot not what unctuous matter and in it swimme little fishes that are caught by the diggers of turfe So that wee may say there bee fishes digged heere out of the earth no lesse than about Heraclea and Tiâ—s in Pontus And no mervaile seeing that in such watery places fishes otherwhiles
and recovered this tract or Province which before had beene lost But these ancient names were quite worne out of use in the English Saxon war and all the Countries lying North on the other side of the Arme of the sea called Humber began by a Saxon name to bee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kingdome of Northumberland which name notwithstanding being now cleane gone in the rest of the Shires remaineth still as it were surviving in Northumberland onely Which when that state or kingdome stood was knowne to bee a part of the Kingdome of Bernicia which had peculiar petty Kings and reached from the River TEES to Edenborough Frith NORTH-HUMBER-LAND NOrth-umber-land which the English Saxons called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 lieth after a sort enclosed in fashion of a Triangle but not with equall sides The South side is shut in with Derwent running into Tine and with Tine it selfe where it butteth upon the Bishoprick of Durham The East side the German sea lieth and beateth upon it But the West side which reacheth out from South-west to North-east is first parted from Cumber-land afterward with Cheviot and hills linked one to another and lastly with the river Twede it affronteth Scotland and so was the limit of both kingdomes over which were set in this countie two Governours the one called L. Warden of the middle Marches the other of the East marches The ground it selfe for the most part rough and hard to be manured seemeth to have hardened the inhabitants whom the Scots their neighbours also made more fierce and hardie while sometimes they keep them exercised in warres and other whiles in time of peace intermingle their manners among them so that by these meanes they are a most warlike nation and excellent good light-horsemen And whereas they addicted themselves as it were wholly to Mars and Armes there is not a man amongst them of the better sort that hath not his little tower or pile and so it was divided into a number of Baronies the Lords whereof in times past before King Edward the first his dayes went commonly under the name Barons although some of them were of no great living But a wise and politicke device this was of our Ancestours to cherish and maintaine martiall prowesse among them in the marches of the kingdome if it were nothing else but with an honourable bare title Howbeit this title came to nothing among them what time as under King Edward the first those onely began to enjoy the name and honour of Barons whom the Kings summoned unto the high Court of Parliament by speciall summons Toward the sea and Tine by diligence and good husbandrie it becommeth very fruitfull but elsewhere it is more barraine rough and as it were unmanurable And in many places those stones Lithanthraces which we call Sea-coales are digged up in great plentie to the great gaine of the inhabitants and commoditie of others The hithermore part bending toward the South-west and called Hexam-shire acknowledged a long time the Archbishop of Yorke for the Lord thereof and challenged unto it selfe by what right I know not the priviledge of a Countie Palatine But after it became of late annexed unto the crowne land upon an exchange made with Robert the Archbishop by authority of Parliament it was laied unto the countie of Northumberland that it should be subject to the same jurisdiction and in all causes have recourse unto the high Sheriffe thereof South Tine a river so called if wee may beleeve our Britans for that by reason of his narrow bankes hee is straight pent in for so signifieth Tin as they say in the British tongue having his spring head in Cumberland neere unto Alsten-more where there was an ancient copper mine holding on his course by Lambley sometime a Nunnerie built by the Lucies and now with floods for the most part undermined and fallen downe also by Fetherston-Haugh the seat of the ancient and well descended family of Fetherston when hee is come as farre as Bellister Castle turning Eastward runneth directly forward with the WALL which is in no place three miles distant from it toward the North. For the Wall having left Cumberland behind it and crossed over the Irthing passed likewise with an arch over the swift riveret Poltrosse where I saw within the wall high mounts of earth cast up as it were to over look and discover the country Neer this standeth Thirl-wale Castle which is not great but strongly built yet it gave both habitation and surname to the ancient and noble family which was first called Wade where the Picts and Scottish made their passage into the Province between Irthing and Tine and that verily upon good forecast in that place where they had free entrance by reason of no river in their way into the inmore parts of England But you shall better understand this and the name of the place out of John Fordon the Scottish Historian whose words it will not bee amisse as I thinke to set downe here because the booke is not everie where to bee had The Scots saith hee when by conquest they had gotten the possession of those countries which are on this side the wall toward Scotland began to inhabite them and having of a suddaine raised a sort of the Country people with their mattockes pickaxes rakes three tined forkes and spades make wide gappes and a number of holes in it by which breaches they might passe in out readily at their pleasure Of those holes therefore this mound of the wall afterward took the name Thirlwall which it hath at this day in this place for in the English tongue that very place is called Thirlwall which is as much as a wall pierced through Then saw we Blenkensop which gave name unto a generous family as also their habitation in a right pleasant country Southward which was part of the Baronie of Sir Nicholas of Bolteby a Baron of renowne in the time of King Edward the first When you are past Thirlwall the said wall openeth it selfe unto the raging river Tippall where in the descent of an hill a little within the wall is to bee seene the ground worke of a Castle of the Romans in forme foure square everie side whereof taketh an hundred and fortie paces The verie foundations likewise of houses and trackes of streets still appeare most evidently to the beholders The Ranke-riders or taking men of the borders doe report that a great port-way paved with flint and bigge stone led from hence through wastes unto Maiden castle in Stanemore Certes it passed directly to Kirkby Thor whereof I spake A poore old woman that dwelt in a little poore cottage hard by shewed unto us an ancient little altar-stone in testimonie of some vow with this inscription unto VITIRINEUS a tutelar God as it seemed of the place DEO VITI RINE LIMEO ROV P. L. M. This place is now named Caer Vorran what
it was in old time it passeth my wit to find out seeing that amongst all the stations mentioned along the range of the Wall there is not one commeth neere to it in name neither have wee any light out of inscriptions to lead us thereunto What ever it was sure the wall thereby was both strongest and highest by farre for scarce a furlong or two from hence upon a good high hill there remaineth as yet some of it to be seene fifteen foot high and nine foot thicke built on both sides with foure square ashler stone although Bede reporteth it was not above twelve foot in heighth From hence the wall goeth forward more aslope by Iuerton Forsten and Chester in the Wall neere to Busie-Gap a place infamous for theeving and robbing where stood some Castles Chesters they call them as I have heard but I could not with safetie take the full survey of it for the ranke-robbers thereabout As for Chester the neighbours told us that it was a very great building so that we may well think it to have been that second station of the Dalmatians which is called in the old booke of Notice MAGNA where this inscriptions was found upon an ancient altar PRO SALUTE DESIDIENI AE LIANI PRAE ET SUA S. POSUIT VOT AO SOLVIT LIBE NS TUSCO ET BAS SO COSS. This broken and imperfect altar likewise brought from thence wee read at Melkrig where now women beat their buckes on it DEAE SURI AE SUB CALP UR NIO AG ICOLA LEG AUG PR PR A. LICINIUS LEMENS PRAEF III. A. IOR Which if I were able to read thus would I willingly read it and the draught of the letters maketh well for it Deae Suriae sub Calphurnio Agricola Legato Augusti Propraetore Licinius Clemens Praefectus that is Unto the goddesse Suria under Calphurnius Agricola Lievtenant of Augustus and Propraetor Licinius Clemens the Captaine This Calphurnius Agricola was sent by Antoninus Philosophus against the Britans what time as there was likely to be warre in Britain about the yeere of Christ 170. At which time some Cohort under his command erected this Altar unto THE GODDESSE SURIA whom with a turreted crown on her head and a Tabber in her hand was set in a coach drawn with Lions as Lucian sheweth at large in his Narration of the goddesse Suria Which goddesse also Nero albeit he contemned all religion especially worshipped for a time and soone after so aviled and despised that he defiled her with his urine From hence wee saw Willyâ—otes-wicke the seat of a respected family of the Ridleyes and hard by it the river Alon tunning with a surging streame and rise of waters into Tine namely when both the Alons are met together in one channell By the Easterne of the two Alons there is to bee seene a towne now called Old-towne but what the old name was will not easily be found Now to the wall againe The next station upon the wall beyond Busie-gap is called Seaven-shale the name whereof if any man would thinke with mee to come from the wing Saviniana or Sabiniana I might the more confidently say that it was that HUNNUM where the Notice of Provinces reporteth the wing Sabiniana kept watch and ward Then beyond Carraw and Walton stands Walwick which some conjecturally would have to be GALLANA in Antonine in all which places there be evident remaines of old fortifications Here there runneth through the wall North Tine which being now come downe amaine out of the mountaines in the marches of England and Scotland first as hee passeth Eastward watereth Tindale a place taking the name of him and in the end receiving into his bosome the river Rhead which springing out of Readsquire a steep mountaine where oftentimes was the True-place that is a place of parley and conference for the East marches for the LL. Wardens of the East marches to both Kingdomes were wont here to decide matters and controversies betweene the borderers giveth his owne name to a dale too too voide of inhabitants by reason of depredations Both these dales breed notable light horse-men and both of them have their hils hard by so boggy and standing with water in the top that no horsemen are able to ride through them whereupon and that is wonderfull there be many very great heapes of stone called Lawes which the neighbour inhabitants be verily perswaded were in old time cast up and layd together in remembrance of some there slaine In both of them also there bee many ruinous remaines of old Castles In Tindale are Whitchester Delaley Tarset sometimes belonging to the Comins In Rheadsdale are Rochester Green-chester Rutchester and some others whose ancient names are abolished and lost by the injury of long time But seeing that at Rochester which standeth neerer into the head of Rhead in the brow of a rocky high mountaine that overlooketh the countrey underneath a great way whence it seemeth to have taken this new name there hath beene found an antique altar among the rubbish of an old castle with this inscription D. R. S. DVPL N. EXPLOR BREMEN ARAM. INSITVERVNT N EIVS C CAEP CHARITINO TRIB VSLM May wee not hence ghesse that BREMENIUM for which there hath beene made so long and great search was here whereof Ptolomee hath made mention in this very siâ—e and position of the country and from which Antonine the Emperor beginneth the first journey of Britaine as from the utmost limit of the Romane Province in Britaine at that time And the limits or bounds of a Dominion were seas great rivers Mountaines Desert lands and unpassable such as be in this tract Trenches also with their rampires walls mounds of trees cut downe or plashed and Castles especially built in places more suspected and dangerous than others to all which there are to bee seene remaines here every where about Certes when the Barbarous nations after they had broken through the wall of Antoninus Pius in Scotland harried all over the countrey and laid all wast before them and the wall of Hadrian lay neglected unto the time of Severus wee may well thinke that even here was set downe the limit of the Romane Empire and that from hence the old Itinerary which goes about under the name of Antoninus began thus A limite that is From the Bound As for that which is set to it id est A vallo that is From the wall or rampier may seeme a glosse put downe by the transcribers considering that BREMENIUM is foureteene miles Northward distant from the said wall unlesse it may seeme to have been one of those out Field-stations which as I said even now were placed within the Barbarians ground beyond the Wall Scarce five miles from old BREMENIUM Southward standeth Otterburne where there was a field most valiantly fought betweene the Scottish and English in which the victory waved alternatively too and fro three or foure times and fell
which name is derived not à vergendo that is of bending towards as some are of opinion but of Mor-weridh for this name the Britans gave it or else of Farigi by which name the Irish men call it the most famous Iland HIBERNIA that is to say IRELAND encloseth the West side of Britain an Iland which in times past challenged the third place amongst all the Isles of the then knowne world For thus as touching Ilands writeth the ancient Geographer 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Of all Ilands for greatnesse the Indian TAPROBANE is prime and principall next after it BRITAINE and in a third degree another British Iland named HIBERNIA that is Ireland and thereupon Ptolomee called it LITTLE BRITAIN This Isle by Orpheus Aristotle and Claudian is named IERNA by Iuvenal Mela JUVERNA by Diodorus Siculus IRIS by Martian of Heraclea JOYEPNIA by Eustathius OYERNIA and BERNIA by the native inhabitants Erin by the Britans Yuerdon and of English men Ireland Whence these names have had their originall sundry and divers opinions have beene conceived from time to time as in a doubtfull matter Some derive Hibernia from Hiberno tempore that is from the Winter season others from Hiberus a Spaniard and some againe from the river Iberus the author of the booke entituled Eulogium from Duke Irnalph Postellus a fancifull man when he read Pomponius Mela publikely in Paris because hee would seeme to have a reach beyond other men fetcheth the originall thereof from the Hebrewes so that Irin should bee as much as Iurin that is the Jewes land The Iewes forsooth saith he being most wise Sages and learned Philosophers knowing by their learning that the Empire of the world should be setled in the strongest Angle which lieth West seized upon those parts and Ireland with the first The Syrians also and Tyrians to lay the foundation of their future Empire endevoured all they could to inhabite those Regions Pardon me I pray you if I dare not subscribe hereto no nor give my consent to that opinion most received as touching the Winter season aforesaid although I have read that in this Iland the aire upon every winde is cold and winterlike As for Hibernia Iuverna and Ouernia they came doubtlesse from IERNA spoken of by Orpheus and Aristotle and the same Ierna as also Iris Yuerdhon and Ireland from Erin the tearme that the inhabitants use From this Erin therefore a word proper unto the nation the originall must be deduced Here I with those great Philosophers 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is hold off and suspend my judgement neither know I what to divine and ground my conjecture upon unlesse peradventure that name may come from Hiere an Irish word which with them signifieth the West or a Western coast whence Erin may seeme to bee derived as one would say a Western countrey Of this opinion have I been a good while since induced thereto with my owne conceit and flattering conjecture both because it lieth furthest Westward of any region in all Europe as being no more than twelve degrees distant from the utmost West point as also for that the river running in the most remote West part of this Iland is in Ptolomee called IERNUS like as the Promontorie or Cape bearing out farthest West in Spaine from whence our Irish-men came is named by Strabo IERNE and as the next river unto it which also is most West of all the rivers in Spaine is called by Mela IERNA Moreover by reason of the Western situation Spaine is named Hesperia and that West Cape in Africk Hesperium cornu yea and even in Germanie these countries Westrich Westphalen c. have their denomination from that position and site so that it is no marvaile if Ireland were tearmed Erin of the Western situation Besides these names of Ireland which I have spoken of the Irish Bards or Poets have usually taken up in their ballads these tearmes Tirvolas Totidanan and Banno as the most ancient names of this Iland but upon what reason I wot not unlesse Banno were that Bannomanna which Plinie mentioneth out of Timaeus whiles his pen coasteth along the outmost sides and skirts of Europe and the shore of the Northren Ocean on the left hand from Scythia even as farre as Cadis in Spaine For what countrey that same Bannomanna should bee the Geographers have not yet found out But Biaun in Irish signifieth Sacred or Holy and verily Festus Avâ—enus calleth Ireland SACRAM INSULAM that is The holy Iland in that little booke intituled ORAE MARITIMAE that is The Sea coasts which he compiled out of most ancient Geographers namely Hecataeus of Miletum Hellanicus of Lesbos Philaeus of Athens Caryandaeus Pausymachus of Samos Damastus Euctemon and others But I will write downe his verses for when he had spoken of the Ilands Ostrymides thus he versifieth Ast hinc duobus in SACRAM sic insulam Dixêre prisci solibus cursus rati est Haec inter undas multum cespitem jacit Eamque latè gens Hibernorum colit Propinqua rursus insula Albionum patet But to the SACRED Isle for so They us'd to call it long agoe From hence a course who so desires Just two dayes sailing it requires Much turfe it casts the waves among And Irish dwell therein along Now very neere to it againe The Albions Isle is kenned plaine If that OGYGIA which Plutarch placed on the West side of our Britaine were not 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 but 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 not a vaine dreame but a matter in truth hee may seeme by that name plainly to point at Ireland although the reports that he so sadly telleth of it be meer poeticall fictions Milesian toies Neither can any man readily tell why they called it Ogygia unlesse haply of the antiquitie For the Grecians tearmed nothing by the name of Ogygia but that which was very ancient And Robert Constantine seemeth to have shot wide all the world over when he affirmeth that CERNE mentioned in Lycophron was our Ireland for Lycophron himselfe and Tzetzes that commenteth upon him doe place Cerne toward the sunne rising and all the best learned men thinke it to be Madagascar situated as it were in another world right under the Tropique of Capricorne right over against Aethiopia Thus much touching the names of Ireland yet so as we remember withall to take this by the way that in these later times it was called also SCOTIA that is Scotland by Isidor and Bede of the Scots who inhabited it and that thence the name of Scotland together with the Scots themselves came into Britaine But of this we have spoken alreadie once before and therefore have no cause to repeat here This Iland is stretched out from South to North not broader than it is long as Strabo hath recorded but shaped in forme of a lentile or an egge nor of twentie dayes sailing as Philemon in Ptolomee hath set it downe but according to
in Irish Bala-Mac-Andan that is The towne of Antonies sonne For it tooke both names of the founder Thomas Fitz-Anthonie an Englishman who flourished under King Henry the third whose heires are yet acknowledged the Lords thereof Beneath this towne the river Callan voideth his streame into Neore upon which standeth the third Burrough or incorporate towne of this county bearing the same name Callan Like as Inise-Teog which is the fourth The family of Butlers hath spread and branched farre and wide throughout this County men that with much honour bare a great port and for their worth and vertues were adorned with the titles of Earles of Carick Ormond Wiltshire in England and of Ossorie as is before said and at this day there remaine of their line beside the Earle of Ormond Vicount Thurles and Knight of the Order of Saint George Vicount Montgarret Vicount Tullo the Barons of Dunboyn and of Cahir a goodly race also and progenie of Noble Gentlemen The rest of the Gentry in this Tract that are of better birth and parentage be likewise of English descent as the Graces Walshes Lovells Foresters Shortels Blanch-felds or Blanchevelstons Drilanas Comerfords c. THE COUNTY OF CATERLOGH THe County of CATERLOGH by contraction Carlogh toward the Sunne rising adjoineth to the County of Kilkenny wholly in manner situate betweene the rivers Barrow and Slane of a fertile soile and shaded well with woods hath two townes in it of better note and importance than the rest both standing upon the West banke of Barrow namely Caterlogh which Leonel Duke of Clarence began to wall and Bellingham a most renowned Lord Deputy fortified with a castle Also Leighlin called in Latine Lechlinia where there was an Episcopall Chaire now united to the See of Fernes These townes have both of them their wards or garrisons and Constables over them And whereas the greatest part of this County belonged in right of inheritance unto the Howards Dukes of Norfolke who by the Earles of Warren drew their descent from the eldest daughter of William Mareschall Earle of Penbroch King Henry the eighth by a generall consent of the States of the Realme tooke unto himselfe both from them and also from other Noblemen yea and from Monasteries in England all their lands and possessions in Ireland for that the Lords thereof by neglecting in their absence their owne private estates carelesly brought therewith the publike state into danger as is already shewed From hence Barrow passeth through the Baronie Ydron which by right belonged to the Carews for Sir John Carew an English Knight died seised thereof in the time of King Edward the third and which Peter Carew within our memorie recovered as it were by a writ of remitter after it had been unlawfully usurped and a long time in the occupation of unjust detainers Upon the river Slane appeareth Tullo memorable in this regard that King James hath lately honoured Theobald Butler the Earle of Ormonds brothers sonne with the title of Vicount Tullo The Cavanaghs dwell a great many of them every way hereabouts who being descended from Dovenald a younger sonne as they say the Bastard of Dermot the last King of Leinster are spred and branched out into a very great sept or linage a warlike generation renowned for their good horse-manship and who as yet though they bee exceeding poore beare themselves in spirit answerable to their ancient nobilitie But being at deadly feud amongst themselves for I wot not what man-slaughters which many yeeres agoe they committed one upon another they daily work their owne mischiefe by mutuall wrongs and hurts When as the English had set some of these to oversee and mannage the possessions they had in this part of Ireland about King Edward the seconds time they by little and little usurped the whole country unto themselves and assumed the name of O-Mores and taking into their societie the Toles and Brenes by little and little disseized the English of all the territorie betweene Caterlogh and the Irish sea Among these is the confluence of Neore and Barrow which after they have travailed in a joint streame some few miles from hence in one channell present both their name and their waters unto their eldest sister the Shour which straightwaies is swallowed up at a mouth full of rockes within the gulfe of the Ocean where on the left hand there shooteth out a little promontorie with a narrow necke that sheweth a prettie high tower unto the sailers erected by the merchants of Rosse what time they were in their prosperity for their direction and safer arrivall at the rivers mouth QUEENES COUNTIE ABove Caterlogh toward the North-west there spreadeth out a little country full of woods and bogs named in Irish Lease and QUEENES Countie in English which Queene Mary ordained to be a Countie by Commission given unto Thomas Ratcliffe Earle of Sussex then Lord Deputie who reduced it into the tearmes of civill order and governement whence it is that the chiefe towne thereof is called Mary-Burgh where certaine garrison souldiers with their Seneschall keep ward and have much adoe to defend themselves against the O-Mores who beare themselves as the ancient Lords thereof against Mac-Gilpatric the O-Dempsies and others a mischievous and tumultuous kind of people who daily practise and plot all they can to annoy the English and to shake off the yoke of lawes For to subdue this wilde and hostile part of the countrey at the first entrie of the English thither Meilere was sent For whom Hugh Lacie governour of Ireland erected one Castle at Tahmelio like as a second at Obowy a third likewise upon the river Barrow and a fourth at Norrach But among the rest he fortified Donemaws an ancient Castle standing in the most plentifull part of the territorie which came hereditarily unto the Breoses Lords of Brecknocke by Eua the younger daughter of William Mareschall Earle of Pembroch and what way as Barrow which rising out of Slew Blomey hills Westward runneth solitarie alone amongst the woods he visiteth that ancient RHEBA mentioned by Ptolomee which keeping the name still intire is called at this day Rheban but insteed of a citie it is altogether as one saith 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A citie citilesse or The remaines of that which was a citie even a few little cottages with a fortresse Notwithstanding it giveth the title of a Baronet unto that Nobleman Nicholas of Saint Michael the Lord thereof who is commonly called the Baronet of Rheban KINGS COUNTIE LIke as the Queenes Countie aforesaid was so named in honour of Queene Marie so the territorie bordering next unto it Northward divided with Barrow running betweene and called in times past Offalie was in honour of Philip King of Spaine her husband tearmed Kings Countie and the principall towne in it Philips Towne where is placed a Seneschall with a ward and divers Gentlemen of English blood are here planted
the Dukes of York and so to the Kings domain or Crowne for Peter de Genevile sonne to that Maud begat Ioan espoused to Roger Mortimer Earle of March and the other part by Margaret wife to John Lord Verdon and by his heires who were Constables of Ireland was devolved at length upon divers families in England as Furnivall Burghersh Crophul c. THE COUNTY OF LONGFORD UNto West Meath on the North side joyneth the County of LONGFORD reduced into this ranke of Countries a few yeeres since by the provident policy of Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy called before time Anale inhabited by a numerous Sept of the O-Pharols of which house there be two great men and Potentates one ruleth in the South part named O-Pharoll Boy that is The yellow the other in the North called O-Pharoll Ban that is The white And very few Englishmen are there among them and those planted there but of late Along the side of this County passeth Shannon the noblest river of all Ireland which as I have said runneth between Meth and Conaught Ptolomee nameth it SENUS Orosius SENA and some copies SACANA Giraldus Flumen Senense but the people dwelling there by call it Shanon that is as some expound it The ancient river He springeth out of Thern hils in the county Le Trim and forthwith cutting through the lands Southward one while overfloweth the bankes and enlargeth himselfe into open Pooles and other whiles drawes backe againe into narrow straights and after he hath run abroad into one or two Lakes gathering himselfe within his bankes valeth bonnet to MACOLICUM now called MALC as the most learned Geographer Gerard Mercator hath observed whereof Ptolomee hath made mention and then by and by is entertained by another broad Mere they call it Lough Regith the name and situation whereof doth after a sort imply that the City RIGIA which Ptolomee placeth there stood not farre from hence But when hee hath once gotten beyond this Poole and draweth himselfe to a narrower channell within the bankes there standeth hard upon him the towne Athlon of which I will write in place convenient From thence Shannon having gotten over the Water-fall at Killolo whereof I must speake anon being now able to beare the biggest ships that are in a divided channell as it were with two armes claspeth about the city Limirick whereof I have spoken already From hence Shannon passing on directly for threescore miles or thereabout in length bearing a great bredth and making many an Iland by the way speedeth himselfe Westward and in what place soever he becommeth shallow and affordeth fords at an ebbe or low water there were planted little forts with wards such was the carefull providence of our forefathers to restraine the inrodes of preytaking robbers And so at length he runneth and voideth out at an huge mouth into the West Ocean beyond Knoc Patric that is Patricks hill for so Necham termeth that place in these his verses of Shannon Fluminibus magnis laetatur Hibernia Sineus Inter Connatiam Momomiamque fluit Transit per muros Limirici Knoc Patric illum Oceani clausum sub ditione videt Ireland takes joy in rivers great and Shannon them among Betwixt Connaught and Munster both holds on his course along He runneth hard by Limrick wayes Knoc Patric then at last Within the gulfe of th' Ocean doth see him lodged fast CONNACHTIA OR CONAGHT THe fourth part of Ireland which beareth Westward closed in with the river Shannon the out-let of the Lake or Lough Erne which some call Trovis others Bana and with the maine Western sea is named by Giraldus Cambrensis Conachtia and Conacia in English Conaght and in Irish Conaughty In ancient times as we may see in Ptolomee it was inhabited by the GANGANI who are also named CONCANI AUTERI and NAGNATAE Those CONCANI or GANGANI like as the LUCENI their next neighbours that came from the Lucensii in Spaine may seeme by the affinity of name and also by the vicinity of place to have beene derived from the CONCANI in Spaine who in Strabo are according to the diversity of reading named CONIACI and CONISCI whom Silius testifieth in these verses following to have beene at the first Scythians and to have usually drunke horses blood a thing even of later daies nothing strange among the wild Irish. Et qui Massagetem monstrans feritate parentem Cornipedis fusa satiaris Concane vena And Concane though in savagenesse that now resembling still Thy parents old the Massagets of horse-blood drinkst thy â—â—ll And beside him Horace Et letum equino sanguine Concanum And Concaine who thinks it so good To make his drinke of horses blood Unlesse a man would suppose this Irish name Conaughty to be compounded of CONCANI and NAGNATAE Well this Province as it is in some place fresh and fruitfull so by reason of certaine moist places yet covered over with grasse which of their softnesse they usually tearme Boghes like as all the Iland besides every where is dangerous and thicke set with many and those very shady woods As for the sea coast lying commodious as it doth with many baies creekes and navigable rivers after a sort it inviteth and provoketh inhabitants to navigation but the sweetnesse of inbred idlenesse doth so hang upon their lazie limbes that they had rather get their living from doore to doore than by their honest labours keepe themselves from beggery Conaught is at this day divided into these counties Twomond or Clare Galway Maio Slego Letrim and Roscoman The ancient CONCANI abovesaid held in old time the more Southerly part of this Conaught where now lye Twomond or Clare the county Galway Clan-Richards country and the Barony of Atterith TWOMOND OR THE COUNTIE CLARE TWomon or Twomond which Giraldus calleth Thuetmonia the Irish Twowoun that is The North-Mounster which although it lye beyond the river Shannon yet was counted in times past part of Mounster untill Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy laid it unto Conaught shooteth out into the sea with a very great Promontory growing by little and little thin and narrow On the East and South sides it is so enclosed with the winding course of the river Shannon which waxeth bigger and bigger like as on the West part with the open maine sea and on the North side confineth so close upon the county Galway that there is no comming unto it by land but through the Clan-Ricards territory This is a country wherein a man would wish for nothing more either from sea or soile were but the industry of the inhabitants correspondent to the rest which industry Sir Robert Muscegros an English Nobleman Richard Clare and Thomas Clare younger brethren of the stock of the Earles of Glocester unto whom King Edward the first had granted this country stirred up long since by building townes and castles and by alluring them to the fellowship of a civill conversation of whose name the chiefe towne Clare now the
the French Gallies gave the attempt to invade it but with the losse of many of his men had the foile and desisted from his enterprise As touching the Ecclesiasticall jurisdiction they were under the Bishop of Constance in Normandy untill that hee in our remembrance refused to abjure the Popes authority in England as our Bishops doe Since which time they were by Queene Elizabeth severed from the Diocesse of Constance and united for ever to the Diocesse of Winchester so as the Bishop of Winchester and his successours execute every thing appertaining to the Episcopall jurisdiction yet their Ecclesiasticall discipline is conformable to the Church of Geneva which the French Ministers have brought in As for the civill customes of these Ilands I could now note some of them out of the Kings records namely How King Iohn instituted twelve Coroners sworn to keepe the pleas and rights belonging to the Crowne and granted for the security of the Ilanders that the Bailiffe henceforth by advice of the Coroners might plead without writ of a new disseisin made within the yeere of the death of any ancestours and predecessours within a yeere of dowry likewise within a yeere c. Moreover that the said Iuries may not delay their judgements beyond the tearme of one yeere likewise that in Customes and other things they should be dealt withall as naturall inborn inhabitants and not as strangers or forrainers But these points I think good to leave unto others who may search more curiously into particulars Generally the customes of Normandy take place here in most cases Touching Serke a little Iland that lieth betweene these above named walled about as it were with mighty steepe rockes in which I. de S. Owen of Iarsey whose antiquity of descent some avouch I know not upon what credit and authority from before Saint Owens time by commission from Queene Elizabeth and for his owne commodity as the report goeth made a plantation whereas before time it lay desolate As touching Iethow which for the use of the Governour of Garnsey serveth in steed of a parke to feed cattell to keepe Deere conies and phesants as also touching Arme which being larger than the other was first a solitary place for Regular Chanons and after for the Franciscan Friers seeing they are not mentioned by the old writers I have no reason to speake much of them After these upon the same coast LIGA whereof Antonine maketh mention shooteth up his head which retaineth the name still and is now called Ligon Then lye there spread and scattered seven Ilands termed by Antonine SIADAE of the number for Saith in the British tongue betokeneth seven which the Frenchmen at this day terme Le set Isles And I suppose these Siades to be corruptly called Hiadatae by Strabo for from these as hee saith it is not a daies sailing into the Iland of Britaine From these SIADAE to BARSA whereof Antonine also hath made mention there is the distance of seven furlongs The Frenchmen call it the Isle de Bas and the English Basepole For the Britans tearme that Bas which is shallow and the Mariners by sounding finde the sea in this place to bee more ebbe and shallow as which lieth not above seven or eight fathomes deepe whereas along all the shore beside the sea carrieth 12.18 and twenty fathoms of water as we may see in their Hydrographicall cards Howbeit betweene these Ilands and Foy in Cornwall this our British sea as Mariners have observed is of a mighty depth which they measure to be in the channell fifty eight fathoms deepe or thereabout From hence I will now cut over to the coasts of our owne Britaine and keeping along the shore as I passe by Ideston Moushole and Longships which be rather infamous and dangerous rocks than Ilands at the very utmost point of Cornwall lieth Antonines LISIA now called of them that dwell thereby Lethowsow but of others The Gulfe seene onely at a low water when the tide is returned I take this to be that Lisia which ancient writers doe mention because Lis as I have heard among our Britans in Wales signifieth the same For Lis◠soundeth as much as to make a noise with a great rumbling or roaring such as commonly we heare in Whirlepits and in that place the current or tide of the Ocean striveth amaine with a mighty noise both Northward and Eastward to get out as being restrained and pent in betweene Cornwall and the Ilands which Antonine calleth SIGDELES Sulpitius Severus SILLINAE Solinus SILURES Englishmen Silly the low country Sea-men Sorlings and the ancient Greeke writers tearme HESPERIDES and CASSITERIDES For Dionisius Alexandrinu◠named them Hesperides of their Westerne situation in these verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which Priscian translated thus Sed summam contra Sacram cognomine dicunt Quam caput Europae sunt stanni pondere plenae Hesperides populus tenuit quas fortis Iberi Which may be englished thus Now just beneath that Isle which Sacred High And head of Europe men are wont to call The Ilands nam'd Hesperides do lie And those well stor'd with Tin a rich metall But would ye know the people then note well The glorious wealthy Spaniards therein dwell These also Festus Avienus in his poeme entituled Orae Maritimae that is The sea coasts called Ostrymnides touching which he inserted these verses as they are found in the Paris edition and the notes upon the same In quo insulae sese exerunt Oestrymnides Laxe jacentes metallo divites Stanni at que plumbi multa vis his gentis est Superbus animus efficax solertia Negotiandi cura jugis omnibus Nolusque cumbis turbidum late fretum Et belluosi gurgitem Oceani secant Non hi carinas quippe pinu texere Facere morem non abiete ut usus est Curvant phasello sed rei ad miraculum Navigia junctis semper aptant pellibus Corioque vastum saepe per currunt salum Wherein the Isles Oestrymnides doe spread And shew themselves broad lying all about In metals rich as well of tin as lead The people strong their stomacks high and stout Active and quicke fresh merchants all throughout No troublous waves in Frith or Ocean maine Of monsters full with ships cut they in twaine For why no skill at all have they to frame Of Pine tree keels for barke or gallion Nor know they how to make oares to the same Of fyrre or maple wood where sailes are none As others use But which is wonder one Of stitched hides they all their vessels make And oft through sea in leather voiage take Like vessels unto which were used in this our sea in the yeere of salvation 914. For we read of certaine devout men that in a Carab or carogh made of two tanned hides onely and an halfe sailed out of Ireland into Cornwall Afterwards also of the said Ilands the
where it passeth over Eden From thence it runneth forth and hath the river Irthing beneath it crossing over Camberke a little brooke running crooked with many turnings in and out where are great tokens to be seene of a fortification After this having cut over the rivers Irthing and Poltrosse it entreth into Northumberland and among the mountaines hudled together goeth along by the side of the river which they call South-Tine without any interruption save only that it is divided by North-Tine where in ancient time there was a bridge over it as farre as to the German Ocean as I will shew in due place when I am come once into Northumberland Yet this admirable worke could not avert and keepe out the tempestuous stormes of forraine enemies But when the Romane armies were retired out of Britaine the Picts and Scots assaulting the wall upon the sudden with their engines and hooked weapons pluckt and puld downe the garrison souldiers brake through the fence and overranne Britaine far and neere being then disarmed and shaken with civill broiles and most miserably afflicted with extreme famine But the most wofull and lamentable misery of these heavie times Gildas a Britan who lived not long after pensilleth out lively in these words As the Romans were returning homeward there appear striving who could come first out of their Caroches in which they had passed over the vale Stitica like unto duskish swarmes of wormes comming forth of their little caves with most narrow holes at noone day in summer and when the heat of he sunne is at the highest a rabble of Scots and Picts in maners partly different but in one and the same greedy designe of bloodshed And having knowledge once that our friends and associates were retired home and had denied ever to returne again they with greater confidence and boldnesse than before time attempt to possesse themselves of all the North side and the utmost part of the land from out of the Inlanders hands as far as to the very wall Against these invasions there stands placed on high in a Keepe a lasie crew unable to fight unfit God he knowes for service trembling and quaking at the heart which night and day sate still as benummed and stirred not abroad Mean while the hooked engines of their naked and bareshanked enemies cease not wherewith the most miserable inhabitants were plucked downe from the walls and dashed against the hard ground This good yet did such an untimely death unto those that thus lost their lives that by so quicke a dispatch and end they were freed from the view of most piteous paines and imminent afflictions of their brethren and children What should I say more when they had left the Cities and high wall they were againe driven to flye and hide themselves and being thus dispersed in more desperate case they were than they had been before The enemies likewise presse still sorer upon them and semblably hasten bloody carnage and slaughters one in the necke of another And even as lambs are torn in pieces by butchers so are these lamentable inhabitants by the enemies insomuch as their abode and continuance together might be well compared to wild beasts For both they preyed one upon another and by robbing also forbare not the short pittance of food that the poorer sort of the inhabitants had for their owne small sustentation also these outward calamities were encreased with domesticall commotions so that by reason of so great robbing pilling and spoiling the whole countrey wanted the stay of all kind of food save onely that which they got by hunting to comfort their poor pining bodies But this is worth the observation that as by the wisdome of the Romans this wall was so built that it had two very great rivers neere to it on the inner side as it were for another defence namely Tine and Irthing that are divided one from the other with a very narrow parcell of ground So on the other side the barbarous people were so cunning that in the same place especially they made their first entrance betwixt these rivers where they might have free passage farther into the heart of the Province without hinderance of any river according as we will shew by and by in Northumberland The fabulous tales of the common people concerning this wall I doe wittingly and willingly overpasse Yet this one thing which I was enformed of by men of good credit I will not conceale from the Reader There continueth a setled perswasion among a great part of the people thereabout and the same received by tradition That the Roman souldiers of the marches did plant here every where in old time for their use certaine medicinable hearbs for to cure wounds whence it is that some Emperick practitioners of Chirurgery in Scotland flock hither every yeere in the beginning of summer to gather such Simples and wound-herbes the vertue whereof they highly commend as found by long experience and to be of singular efficacy OTTADINI AFter the Brigantes Ptolomee placeth those who according to the divers readings in Copies are called OTTALINI OTTADENI and OTTADINI In steed of all which names I would if I durst presume so far with a very easie alteration substitute OTTATINI that it might signifie On the farther side of or above the river Tine And so verily would the name of the Inhabitants bee consonant with the position and site of the countrey For these are planted beyond Tine And the Welsh-Britans at this day call a country in Wales beyond the river Conwey Uch Conwey beyond the hils Uchmynith beyond the wood Uch-Coed beyond the river Gwyrway Uch-Gwyrway Neither can it be I assure you altogether absurd if after the same manner they tearmed this country beyond Tine Uch Tin whence the Romans may seeme to have framed this name OTTADINI by a word somewhat disjointed but more smooth and pleasanter to the eare And whereas Xiphilinus reporteth out of Dio that all the Britans that dwelt neere unto the wall which we spake of even now were called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or MAEATAE good reason it is that we should thinke these our Ottadini dwelling by the said wall were among those Maeatae who in that memorable revolt and rebellion of the Britans called in the Caledonians to assist them and take armes with them At which time Severus the Emperour commanded his souldiers peremptorily to kill all the Britans using these verses of Homer 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Let none scape cruell death Nor dint of sword no not the child unborne In mothers womb that lies his death is sworne But the tempestuous storme of this rebellion was calmed by the death of Severus who in his very preparation for warre died at Yorke Long after this Countrey seemeth to have beene a part of VALENTIA For so Theodosius called it in honour of Valentinian the Emperour after he had subdued the barbarous people