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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A07834	An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions.	Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630.	1617 (1617)	STC 18205; ESTC S115249	1,351,375	915

it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City

among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and

will cost him sixe pence or in some places but foure pence yet this course is lesse honourable and not vsed by Gentlemen but if he will eate in his chamber he commands what meate he will according to his appetite and as much as he thinkes fit for him and his company yea the kitchin is open to him to command the meat to be dressed as he best likes and when he sits at Table the Host or Hostesse will accompany him or if they haue many Guests will at least visit him taking it for curtesie to be bid sit downe while he eates if he haue company especially he shall be offred musicke which he may freely take or refuse and if he be solitary the Musitians will giue him the good day with musicke in the morning It is the custome and no way disgracefull to set vp part of supper for his breakefast In the euening or in the morning after breakefast for the common sort vse not to dine but ride from breakefast to supper time yet comming early to the Inne for better resting of their Horses he shall haue a reckoning in writing and if it seeme vnreasonable the Host will satisfie him either for the due price or by abating part especially if the seruant deceiue him any way which one of experience will soone find Hauing formerly spoken of ordinary expences by the high way aswell in the particular iournall of the first Part as in a Chapter of this Part purposely treating thereof I will now onely adde that a Gentleman and his Man shall spend as much as if he were accompanied with another Gentleman and his Man and if Gentlemen will in such sort ioyne together to eate at one Table the expences will be much diminished Lastly a Man cannot more freely command at home in his owne House then hee may doe in his Inne and at parting if he giue some few pence to the Chamberlin Ostler they wish him a happy iourney England hath three publike Feasts of great expence and pompous solemnity namely the coronation of the Kings the Feast of S. George as well vpon his day yeerely as at all times when any Knight of the Order is installed and the third when Seriants at the Law are called The Lord Mayor of the City of London vpon the day when he is sworne enters his Office keeps a solemne Feast with publike shewes of great magnificence besides that hee and the Sheriffes of the Citie daily keepe well furnished Tables to entertaine any Gentleman or stranger that will come to them to the great honour of the City in this particular passing all other Cities of the World knowne to vs. For the point of drinking the English at a Feast will drinke two or three healths in remembrance of speciall friends or respected honourable persons and in our time some Gentlemen and Commanders from the warres of Netherland brought in the custome of the Germans large garaussing but this custome is in our time also in good measure left Likewise in some priuate Gentlemens houses and with some Captaines and Souldiers and with the vulgar sort of Citizens and Artisans large and intemperate drinking is vsed but in generall the greater and better part of the English hold all excesse blame worthy and drunkennesse a reprochfull vice Clownes and vulgar men onely vse large drinking of Beere or Ale how much soeuer it is esteemed excellent drinke euen among strangers but Gentlemen garrawse onely in Wine with which many mixe sugar which I neuer obserued in any other place or Kingdome to be vsed for that purpose And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetenesse the Wines in Tauernes for I speake not of Merchants or Gentlemens Cellars are commonly mixed at the filling thereof to make them pleasant And the same delight in sweetnesse hath made the vse of Corands of Corinth so frequent in all places and with all persons in England as the very Greekes that sell them wonder what we doe with such great quantities thereof and know not how we should spend them except we vse them for dying or to feede Hogges CHAP. IIII. Of Scotland touching the Subiects contained in the first Chapter THE Longitude of Scotland extends fiue degrees from the Meridian of sixeteene degrees to that of one and twenty degrees and the Latitude extends foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty sixe degrees and a halfe to that of sixty degrees and a halfe In the Geographical description wherof I wil briefly follow the very words of Camden as neere as I can being an Authour without exception 1 The Gadeni of Scotland were of old next neighbours to the Ottadini of Northumberland in England and inhabited the Countrey now called Teyfidale wherein is nothing memorable but the Monastery of Mailors 2 In Merch so called as a bordering Countrey the Castle Hume is the old possession of the Lords of Hume neere which is Kelso the ancient dwelling of the Earles of Bothwell which were long by inheritance Admirals of Scotland and the Merch is mentioned in Histories for nothrng more then the valour of the said Earles 3 Laudania of old called Pictland shooteth out from Merch towards the Scottish narrow Sea called the Frith and is full of mountaines but hath few woods In this Country are these little Cities or Townes Dunbarre Haddington and Musleborrow places wherein hath beene seene the warlike vertue of the English and Scots Somewhat lower and neere to the foresaid Frith lies Edenborough which Ptolomy cals Castrum Alatum a rich City of old compassed with wals and the seate of the Kings whole Palace is at the East end in a vally ouer which hangs a mountaine called the Chaire of Arthur our Britan Prince and from this Pallace is an easie ascent to the West end where the length of the City ends in a steepe rocke vpon which is built a most strong Castle called the Maidens Castle the same which Ptolomy cals Alatum This City was long vnder the English Saxons and about the yeere 960 England being inuaded by the Danes it became subiect to the Scots Leth is a mile distant and is a most commodious Hauen vpon the narrow Scottish Gulfe vulgarly called Edenborough Frith 4 Towards the West lay the Selgouae vpon another Gulfe running betweene England and Scotland vulgarly called Solway Frith of the said Selgouae inhabiting the Countries called Eskedale Annandale and Nidtsdale in which is the little Towne Dunfrise 5 Next lay the Nouantes in the Valleys where Gallway and Whitterne which Citie Ptolomy calles Leucopibia are seated 6 In the little Countrie Caricta hauing good pastures is the little Towne Gergeny which Ptolomy calles Rerigonium 7 More inward lay the Damnij where now Sterling Merteth and Claidsdale are seated Here the Riuer Cluyde runnes by Hamelton the seate of the Hameltons Family of English race of which the third Earle of Arran liueth in our dayes and after by Glascow the seat of an Archbishop and a little Vniuersitie Here

CONTAINING HIS TEN YEERES TRAVELL THROVGH THE TWELVE DOMJNIONS OF Germany Bohmerland Sweitzerland Netherland Denmarke Poland Jtaly Turky France England Scotland and Ireland Diuided into III Parts THE I. PART Containeth a Iournall through all the said twelue Dominions Shewing particularly the number of miles the soyle of the Country the situation of Cities the descriptions of them with all Monuments in each place worth the seeing as also the rates of hiring Coaches or Horses from place to place with each daies expences for diet horse-meate and the like THE II. PART Containeth the Rebellion of Hugh Earle of Tyrone and the appeasing thereof written also in forme of a Iournall THE III. PART Containeth a Discourse vpon seuerall Heads through all the said seuerall Dominions AT LONDON Printed by John Beale dwelling in Aldersgate street 1617. HONI SOIT QVI MAL Y PENSE WITH the Kings Maiesties full and sole Priuiledge to the Author Fynes Moryson Gent. his Executors Administrators Assignes and Deputies for 21 yeeres next ensuing to cause to be imprinted and to sell assigne and dispose to his or their best benefit this Booke and Bookes as well in the English as in the Latin tongue as well these three Parts finished as one or two Parts more thereof not yet finished but shortly to be perfected by him Sraitly forbidding any other during the said yeeres to imprint or cause to be imprinted to import vtter or sell or cause to be imported vttered or sold the said Booke or Bookes or any part thereof within any of his Maiesties Dominions vpon paine of his Maiesties high displeasure and to forfet three pounds lawfull English money for euery such Booke Bookes or any part thereof printed imported vttered or sold contrary to the meaning of this Priuiledge besides the forfeture of the said Book Books c. as more at large appeareth by his Maiesties Letters Patents dated the 29 of Aprill in the fifteenth yeere of his Maiesties raigne of England France and Ireland and of Scotland the fiftieth To the Right Honourable VVJLLJAM EARLE OF PEMBROKE Lord Chamberlaine of his Maiesties Houshold one of his Maiesties most Honourable Priuie Counsell and Knight of the most noble Order of the GARTER c. Right Honourable SInce I had the happinesse imputed to Salomons Seruants by the Queene of Sheba to stand sometimes before You an eye and eare witnes of your Noble conuersation with the worthy Earle of Deuonshire my deceased Lord and Master I euer admired your vertues and much honoured your Person And because it is a thing no lesse commendable gladly to receiue fauours from men of eminent worth then with like choice to tender respect and seruice to them I being now led by powerfull custome to seeke a Patron for this my Worke and knowing that the weakest frames need strongest supporters haue taken the boldnes most humbly to commend it to your Honours protection which vouchsafed it shall triumph vnder the safegard of that massy shield and my selfe shall not only acknowledge this high fauour with humblest thankefulnesse but with ioy imbrace this occasion to auow myselfe now by publike profession as I haue long been in priuate affection Your Honours most humble and faithfull seruant FYNES MORYSON To the Reader FOr the First Part of this Worke it containes only a briefe narration of daily iournies with the rates of Coaches or Horses hired the expences for horses and mans meat the soyle of the Country the situation of Townes and the descriptions thereof together with all things there worthy to be seene which Treatise in some obscure places is barren and vnpleasant espetially in the first beginning of the worke but in other places I hope you will iudge it more pleasant and in some delightfull inducing you fauorably to dispence with the barrennes of the former inserted only for the vse of vnexperienced Trauellers passing those waies Againe you may perhaps iudge the writing of my daily expences in my iournies to be needles vnprofitable in respect of the continuall change of prices and rates in all Kingdoms but they can neuer be more subiect to change then the affaies of Martiall and ciuill Policie In both which the oldest Histories serue vs at this day to good vse Thirdly and lastly touching the First Part of this VVorke when you read my expences in vnknowne Coynes you may iustly require the explaning of this obscurity by expression of the values in the English Coynes But I pray you to consider that the adding of these seuerall values in each daies iourny had been an Herculean labour for auoiding whereof I haue first set before the First Part a briefe Table expressing the value of the small Coynes most commonly spent and also haue expresly particularly for each Dominion and most part of the Prouinces set downe at large how these values answer the English Coynes in a Chapter written of purpose to satisfie the most curious in this point namely the fifth Chapter of the third Booke being the last of this First Part in which Chapter also I haue briefly discoursed of the best means to exchange monies into forraigne parts Touching the VVorke in generall I wil truly say that I wrote it swiftly and yet slowly This may seeme a strange Riddle and not to racke your wit with the interpretation my selfe will expound it I wrote it swiftly in that my pen was ready and nothing curious as may appeare by the matter and stile and I wrote it slowly in respect of the long time past since I viewed these Dominions and since I tooke this worke in hand So as the VVorke may not vnfitly bee compared to a nose-gay of flowers hastily snatched in many gardens and with much leasure vet carelesly and negligently bound together The snatching is excused by the haste necessary to Trauellers desiring to see much in short time And the negligent binding in true iudgement needs no excuse affected curiositie in poore subiects being like rich imbroidery laid vpon a frize ierken so as in this case onely the trifling away of mxch time may bee imputed to my ignorance dulnes or negligence if my iust excuse be not heard in the rendering whereof I must craue your patience During the life of the worthy Earle of Deuonshire my deceased Lord I had little or no time to bestow in this kind after his deth I lost fully three yeers labor in which I abstracted the Histories of these 12 Dominiōs thorow which I passed with purpose to ioyne them to the Discourses of the seuerall Commonwealths for illustration and ornament but when the worke was done and I found the bulke there of to swel then I chose rather to suppresse them then to make my gate bigger then my Citie And for the rest of the yeers I wrote at leasure giuing like a free and vnhired workeman much time to pleasure to necessary affaires and to diuers and long distractions If you consider this and with all remember that the worke is first written in Latine

our would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it then according to the fashion wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake and when he was drawne out he began by little and little to moue and at last being come to his senses ranne away as if he had been madde The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour Besides many haue tried that liuing things cast into that caue and held there for longer time then is vsuall could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water They report that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death And that the French King Charles the eight commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe And that don Iohn base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue and he falling dead forced another slaue to fetch him out who likewise fell dead and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fellowes Many cast frogs into this caue and except they presently leape back this vapour kills them which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters And this water though cold to touch yet seemes to boile The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines by the vapours inclosed gaue the Poets occasion to faine that Giants were buried vnder them Not farre hence are the wholesome baths vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano which kind of baths are very frequent in this part Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus and Writers affirme that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake cutting the passage through Mountaines Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero which retaine the old name and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait was buried here and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place is a round field like a Market-place vulgarly called o Solfataria which Strabo cals Forum vulcani Pliny writes that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci It is of an Ouall forme somewhat more long then broad hauing 1500 foote in length and 1000 in breadth being compassed on all sides with Mountaines except the enterance lying towards Pozzoli All the earth is hollow and being beaten with a mans foote soundeth like an emptie vessell and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour with walking vpon it yea when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe In this Ouall Market place as I may call it there is a short and narrow ditch of water which is almost round and the water thereof boyles as if fire were vnder it They say if any thing be cast into it that it will be sodden in short space but some part of it will be consumed and Leander reports that one cast foure egges into it and presently tooke three fully sodden but the fourth was consumed Also he witnesseth that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite and yet is neuer greater and that the old ditch is filled presently with new matter An horseman cannot well come to this place and as the same Leander writes an horse man comming boldly thither was swallowed vp into the hollow earth And that the strange heate of this water may appeare one of the Viceroyes Guard a Duchman and comming hither according to their fashion to guide his Countrey men my consorts told vs that one of his fellowes not long before comming in like sort as hee did to guide his Countrimen hither either being carelesse or rather as it is most probable hauing drunke too much and not guiding his feete well by chance stumbled into this ditch and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand and that after better aduice they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him but that within few daies he died neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole where the vapours with their owne motion continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe or any thing put into the hole the more they are stirred the greater stones they cast vp yea flames of fire sometimes There bee some cottages neere this place where they make Brimstone and all these parts smell of brimstone and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters which of old were famous After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings we came at the foot of a mountaine to the City p Pozzoli of old famous and called Puteolis to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong of the wels which are frequent I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo signifying a well though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo which signifies a stink because of the smell of brimstone in these parts but the city being most ancient cannot haue the old name of an Italian word and it is certaine that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation for the great sweetnes of the Country and the plenty of medicinall waters whereupon they gaue it the first name Others say that it was of old called Diciarchiam but at this day it is called Pozzoli or Puzzoli Here we dined and were forced to giue our swords to the Host there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes The City hath nothing worth the seeing but the old Church first built to Heathen Idols and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious but by negligence is growne of no vse Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines was of old called the Creeke of P Baie of that Citie seated on the opposite shore or

Cities beene In one word I will say what can be said vpon this subiect Euery soyle is to a valiant man his owne Countrey as the Sea to the Fishes We are Citizens of the whole World yea not of this World but of that to come All our life is a Pilgrimage God for his onely begotten Sonnes sake the true Mercury of Trauellers bring vs that are here strangers safely into our true Countrey CHAP. II. Of Precepts for Trauellers which may instruct the vnexperienced I Will follow my purpose and giue precepts not to expert men as Phormio did to Hanniball in military affaires but onely to the vnexperienced and that not curiously as if I would prescribe them euery step they should goe but such as may whet the wits and memories of other men well knowing that many things may be added which are slipped out of my memory and which others may daily find out 1 In the first place as euery man in any course of life so most of all a Traueller who is subiect to many dangers must by his daily prayers sollicite God for his gracious protection All our actions must take beginning from God the fountaine of all good if we desire with the Israelites to haue Gods Cloud and pillar of fier protect vs in our iournies and aboads Let him daily commend himselfe to Gods protection and euen in his iourneys daily at morning and euening not while he siumbers in his bed but in priuate withdrawne from company either kneeling as before his father or standing as before his Master and Lord make his prayers though neuer so short to his almighty and most mercifull God And let no man take this for a needlesse precept for I freely professe that when I was most deuout in this kind I found my selfe hedged about with the good Angell as on the contrary when I neglected the same I often obserued by some manifest accident that I was left to errour and danger 2 Let each Traueller forecast with himselfe his owne purposes and ends For they which are vnskilfull in the Arts of painting caruing and building can neuer worthily praise nor well imitate the rare workes they shall see of these kinds Experience teatheth that no action is wisely vndertaken whereof the end is not forecast in the first place howsoeuer it be last put in execution but since it were infinit to apply my precepts to the seuerall ends of seuerall men and no more possible then for a Physician to cure the Patient not knowing the causes and the progresse of his sickenesse I professe to write especially in this place to the Humanist I meane him that affects the knowledge of State affaires Histories Cosmography and the like and out of that I write let other men apply to their vse what they iudge fit for them And if the Humanist iudge many things I shall write lesse necessary for him let him know that as an Orator and Poet must haue some skill in all Sciences so the Humanist must haue some knowledge of all things which fall into practice and discourse 3 Let a Traueller obserue the vnderwritten things of them some curiously some slightly as he shall iudge them fit for his purpose He shall obserue the fruitfulnes of each Countrey and the things wherewith it aboundeth as the Mines of mettals and precious stones the chiefe lawes and customes of the workers in those Mines also Batches and the qualitie of the water with the diseases for the curing whereof it is most proper the names springs and courses of Riuers the pleasant Fountaines the aboundance or rarity of Pastures Groues Wood Corne and Fruits the rare and precious Plants the rare and proper Beasts the prices of necessary things and what he daily spends in his diet and horsemeat and in hiring Horses or Coaches the soyle of euery dayes iourney the plenty of Fishes or Flesh the kinds of meat or drinke with the sauces and the rarer manners of dressing meates the Countreys expence in apparell with their constancy or ficklenesse in wearing it the races of Horses as the Giannets of Spaine the Coursers of Naples and the heauy Horses of Freesland and how they manage and feed these Horses the scituation of Cities and Prouinces the healthfulnes of the Aire the Chorography the buildings the ritches the magnificence of Citizens their houshold stuffe and in generall all speciall things as Statuaes Colosses Sepulchers with the inscriptions Lybraries with the most rare Bookes Theaters Arches Bridges Forts Armories Treasuries Monasteries Churches publike houses Vniuersities with their Founders reuenewes and disputations To conclude let him visit the most learned men and those that excell in military Art or any vertue and let him conferre with them as his ends require Thus did I visit Beza at Geneua thus did I visit Belarmine at Rome being ready to take Horse and in the habit and person of a Frenchman Thus in my returne did I gladly see Henry the fourth of Burbon King of France famous for the feats of Armes and Wisdome onely Lipsius whom I loued for his Booke of constancy and much desired to see for his vniuersall learning did bereaue me of this hope when I came into the Low-Countreys by his inconstant flight to the Spaniards The Traueller shall further obserue the policy of each State and therein the Courts of each King or Prince with the Courtiers entertainements fees or offices the statures of the Princes their reuenewes the forme of the Common-wealth whether the Prince be a Tyrant or beloued of the people what Forces he hath by Sea or Land the military discipline the manners of the people their vices vertues industry in manuall Arts the constitution of their bodies the History of the Kingdome and since the soule of each man is the man and the soule of the Common-wealth is Religion he shall obserue the disposition of the people whether it be religious superstitious or prophane and the opinions of Religion differing from his and the most rare Ceremonies thereof He shall also obserue the trafficke of Merchants and therein the commodities which they carry out and most want the Hauens and roades for Ships theit skill in nauigation and whether they vse subiects or strangers for their Marriners Lastly the value of the Coynes in each Countrey and the seueral currant peeces and whatsoeuer he shall thinke meet to adde hereunto 4 And because the memory is weake and those who write much are many times like the Clerkes that carry their learning in their Booke not in their braine let him constantly obserue this that whatsoeuer he sees or heares he apply it to his vse and by discourse though forced make it his owne Thus Students of Rhetoricke at first seeking matter for words rather then words for matter at last attaine an easie stile flowing like a still Riuer and lay aside the affectation of words Let nothing worth the knowledge passe his eyes or eares which he draweth not to his owne possession in this sort In the

to that of fifteene and a halfe and the Latitude extends also foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty foure degrees to that of fifty eight degrees In the Geographicall description I will follow Camden as formerly This famous Iland in the Virginian Sea is by olde Writers called Ierna Inuerna and Iris by the old Inhabitants Eryn by the old Britans Yuerdhen by the English at this day Ireland and by the Irish Bardes at this day Banno in which sence of the Irish word Auicen cals it the holy Iland besides Plutarch of old called it Ogigia and after him Isidore named it Scotia This Ireland according to the Inhabitants is deuided into two parts the wild Irish and the English Irish liuing in the English Pale but of the old Kingdomes fiue in number it is deuided into fiue parts 1 The fast is by the Irish called Mowne by the English Mounster and is subdeuided into sixe Counties of Kerry of Limricke of Corcke of Tipperary of the Holy Crosse and of Waterford to which the seuenth County of Desmond is now added The Gangaui a Scithean people comming into Spaine and from thence into Ireland inhabited the County of Kerry full of woody mountaines in which the Earles of Desmond had the dignity of Palatines hauing their House in Trailes a little Towne now almost vninhabited Not farre thence lies Saint Mary Wic vulgarly called Smerwicke where the Lord Arthur Gray being Lord Deputy happily ouerthrew the aiding troopes sent to the Earle of Desmond from the Pope and the King of Spaine On the South side of Kerry lies the County of Desmond of old inhabited by three kinds of people the Lucens being Spaniards the Velabri so called of their seate vpon the Sea waters or Marshes and the Iberns called the vpper Irish inhabiting about Beerehauen Baltimore two Hauens well known by the plentiful fishing of Herrings and the late inuasion of the Spaniards in the yeere 1601. Next to these is the County of Mec Carti More of Irish race whom as enemy to the Fitz-geralds Queene Elizabeth made Earle of Glencar in the yeere 1556. For of the Fitz-Geralds of the Family of the Earles of Kildare the Earles of Desmond descended who being by birth English and created Earles by King Edward the third became hatefull Rebels in our time The third County hath the name of the City Corke consisting almost all of one long streete but well knowne and frequented which is so compassed with rebellious neighbours as they of old not daring to marry their Daughters to them the custome grew and continues to this day that by mutuall marriages one with another all the Citizens are of kinne in some degree of Affinity Not farre thence is Yoghall hauing a safe Hauen neere which the Vicounts of Barry of English race are seated In the fourth County of Tipperary nothing is memorable but that it is a Palatinate The little Towne Holy-Cresse in the County of the same name hath many great priuiledges The sixth County hath the name of the City Limerike the seate of a Bishop wherein is a strong Castle built by King Iohn Not farre thence is Awue the seate of a Bishop and the lower Ossery giuing the title of an Earle to the Butlers and the Towne Thurles giuing them also the title of Vicount And there is Cassiles now a poore City but the seate of an Archbishoppe The seuenth County hath the name of the City Watersord which the Irish call Porthlargi of the commodious Hauen a rich and well inhabited City esteemed the second to Dublyn And because the Inhabitants long faithfully helped the English in subduing Ireland our Kings gaue them excessiue priuiledges but they rashly failing in their obedience at King Iames his comming to the Crowne could not in long time obtaine the confirmation of their old Charter 2 Lemster the second part of Ireland is fertile and yeelds plenty of Corne and hath a most temperate mild Aire being deuided into ten Counties of Catterlogh Kilkenny Wexford Dublyn Kildare the Kings County the Queenes County the Counties of Longford of Fernes and of Wickle The Cariondi of old inhabited Caterlogh or Carloo County and they also inhabited great part of Kilkenny of vpper Ossery and of Ormond which haue nothing memorable but the Earles of Ormond of the great Family of the Butlers inferiour to no Earle in Ireland not to speake of Fitz pairic Baron of vpper Ossery It is redicnious which some Irish who will be beleeued as men of credit report of Men in these parts yeerely turned into Wolues except the aboundance of melancholy humour transports them to imagine that they are so transformed Kilkenny giuing name to the second County is a pleasant Towne the chiefe of the Townes within Land memorable for the ciuility of the Inhabitants for the Husbandmens labour and the pleasant Orchards I passe ouer the walled Towne Thomastowne and the ancient City Rheban now a poore Village with a Castle yet of old giuing the title of Barronet I passe ouer the Village and strong Castle of Leighlin with the Countrey adioyning vsurped by the Sept of the Cauanaghs now surnamed Omores Also I omit Kosse of old a large City at this day of no moment The third County of Wexford called by the Irish County Reogh was of old inhabited by the Menappij where at the Towne called Banna the English made their first discent into Ireland and vpon that Coast are very dangerous flats in the Sea which they vulgarly call Grounds The City Weshford Weisford or Wexford is the cheefe of the County not great but deseruing praise for their faithfulnesse towards the English and frequently inhabited by Men of English race The Cauci a Seabordering Nation of Germany and the Menappij aforesaid of old inhabited the territories now possessed by the Omores and Ohirns Also they inhabited the fourth County of Kildare a fruitfull soyle hauing the cheese Towne of the same name greatlie honoured in the infancie of the Church by Saint Briget King Edward the second created the Giralds Earles of Kildare The Eblani of old inhabited the territory of Dublin the fifth County hauing a fertile soyle and rich pastures but wanting wood so as they burne Turffe or Seacoale brought out of England The City Dublyn called Diuelin by the English and Balacleigh as seated vpon hurdles by the Irish is the cheefe City of the Kingdome and seate of Iustice fairely built frequently inhabited and adorned with a strong Castle fifteene Churches an Episcopall seate and a faire Colledge an happy foundation of an Vniuersity laid in our Age and indowed with many priuiledges but the Hauen is barred and made lesse commodious by those hils of sands The adioyning Promontory Hoth-head giues the title of a Barron to the Family of Saint Laurence And towards the North lies Fengall a little Territory as it were the Garner of the Kingdome which is enuironed by the Sea and great Riuers and this situation hath defended it from the incursion of Rebels in former