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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A07834	An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions.	Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630.	1617 (1617)	STC 18205; ESTC S115249	1,351,375	915

it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to 〈◊〉 Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither frō Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City

CONTAINING HIS TEN YEERES TRAVELL THROVGH THE TWELVE DOMJNIONS OF Germany Bohmerland Sweitzerland Netherland Denmarke Poland Jtaly Turky France England Scotland and Ireland Diuided into III Parts THE I. PART Containeth a Iournall through all the said twelue Dominions Shewing particularly the number of miles the soyle of the Country the situation of Cities the descriptions of them with all Monuments in each place worth the seeing as also the rates of hiring Coaches or Horses from place to place with each daies expences for diet horse-meate and the like THE II. PART Containeth the Rebellion of Hugh Earle of Tyrone and the appeasing thereof written also in forme of a Iournall THE III. PART Containeth a Discourse vpon seuerall Heads through all the said seuerall Dominions AT LONDON Printed by John Beale dwelling in Aldersgate street 1617. HONI SOIT QVI MAL Y PENSE WITH the Kings Maiesties full and sole Priuiledge to the Author Fynes Moryson Gent. his Executors Administrators Assignes and Deputies for 21 yeeres next ensuing to cause to be imprinted and to sell assigne and dispose to his or their best benefit this Booke and Bookes as well in the English as in the Latin tongue as well these three Parts finished as one or two Parts more thereof not yet finished but shortly to be perfected by him Sraitly forbidding any other during the said yeeres to imprint or cause to be imprinted to import vtter or sell or cause to be imported vttered or sold the said Booke or Bookes or any part thereof within any of his Maiesties Dominions vpon paine of his Maiesties high displeasure and to forfet three pounds lawfull English money for euery such Booke Bookes or any part thereof printed imported vttered or sold contrary to the meaning of this Priuiledge besides the forfeture of the said Book Books c. as more at large appeareth by his Maiesties Letters Patents dated the 29 of Aprill in the fifteenth yeere of his Maiesties raigne of England France and Ireland and of Scotland the fiftieth To the Right Honourable VVJLLJAM EARLE OF PEMBROKE Lord Chamberlaine of his Maiesties Houshold one of his Maiesties most Honourable Priuie Counsell and Knight of the most noble Order of the GARTER c. Right Honourable SInce I had the happinesse imputed to Salomons Seruants by the Queene of Sheba to stand sometimes before You an eye and eare witnes of your Noble conuersation with the worthy Earle of Deuonshire my deceased Lord and Master I euer admired your vertues and much honoured your Person And because it is a thing no lesse commendable gladly to receiue fauours from men of eminent worth then with like choice to tender respect and seruice to them I being now led by powerfull custome to seeke a Patron for this my Worke and knowing that the weakest frames need strongest supporters haue taken the boldnes most humbly to commend it to your Honours protection which vouchsafed it shall triumph vnder the safegard of that massy shield and my selfe shall not only acknowledge this high fauour with humblest thankefulnesse but with ioy imbrace this occasion to auow myselfe now by publike profession as I haue long been in priuate affection Your Honours most humble and faithfull seruant FYNES MORYSON To the Reader FOr the First Part of this Worke it containes only a briefe narration of daily iournies with the rates of Coaches or Horses hired the expences for horses and mans meat the soyle of the Country the situation of Townes and the descriptions thereof together with all things there worthy to be seene which Treatise in some obscure places is barren and vnpleasant espetially in the first beginning of the worke but in other places I hope you will iudge it more pleasant and in some delightfull inducing you fauorably to dispence with the barrennes of the former inserted only for the vse of vnexperienced Trauellers passing those waies Againe you may perhaps iudge the writing of my daily expences in my iournies to be needles vnprofitable in respect of the continuall change of prices and rates in all Kingdoms but they can neuer be more subiect to change then the affaies of Martiall and ciuill Policie In both which the oldest Histories serue vs at this day to good vse Thirdly and lastly touching the First Part of this VVorke when you read my expences in vnknowne Coynes you may iustly require the explaning of this obscurity by expression of the values in the English Coynes But I pray you to consider that the adding of these seuerall values in each daies iourny had been an Herculean labour for auoiding whereof I haue first set before the First Part a briefe Table expressing the value of the small Coynes most commonly spent and also haue expresly particularly for each Dominion and most part of the Prouinces set downe at large how these values answer the English Coynes in a Chapter written of purpose to satisfie the most curious in this point namely the fifth Chapter of the third Booke being the last of this First Part in which Chapter also I haue briefly discoursed of the best means to exchange monies into forraigne parts Touching the VVorke in generall I wil truly say that I wrote it swiftly and yet slowly This may seeme a strange Riddle and not to racke your wit with the interpretation my selfe will expound it I wrote it swiftly in that my pen was ready and nothing curious as may appeare by the matter and stile and I wrote it slowly in respect of the long time past since I viewed these Dominions and since I tooke this worke in hand So as the VVorke may not vnfitly bee compared to a nose-gay of flowers hastily snatched in many gardens and with much leasure vet carelesly and negligently bound together The snatching is excused by the haste necessary to Trauellers desiring to see much in short time And the negligent binding in true iudgement needs no excuse affected curiositie in poore subiects being like rich imbroidery laid vpon a frize ierken so as in this case onely the trifling away of mxch time may bee imputed to my ignorance dulnes or negligence if my iust excuse be not heard in the rendering whereof I must craue your patience During the life of the worthy Earle of Deuonshire my deceased Lord I had little or no time to bestow in this kind after his deth I lost fully three yeers labor in which I abstracted the Histories of these 12 Dominiōs thorow which I passed with purpose to ioyne them to the Discourses of the seuerall Commonwealths for illustration and ornament but when the worke was done and I found the bulke there of to swel then I chose rather to suppresse them then to make my gate bigger then my Citie And for the rest of the yeers I wrote at leasure giuing like a free and vnhired workeman much time to pleasure to necessary affaires and to diuers and long distractions If you consider this and with all remember that the worke is first written in Latine

AEolus another of Parnassus where with the turning of a cocke a paire of Organs doth make sweet musicke and there is a head which together with the eyes in moued to and fro by the vnseene water and there is a pleasant shade with many statuaes or Images curiously carued and there the Duke doth many times eat The third fountaine is called Il villano that is the Clowne The fourth la pestaria that is the fish-pond where a Ducke of India hauing foure wings did swimme in the water The fifth La lauandara the Laundresse where the statua of a woman with the turning of a Cocke beats a bucke turning the clothes vp and downe with her hand and the battledor wherewith shee beateth them in the water The sixth vulgarly Caccioli containes vessels to keepe the water cold The seuenth Del Rosso The eight Grotta Copito and in this Caue on all sides are marble chaires whereupon passengers willingly sit after their walking but assoone as they lightly presse some of the seats a paile of water fals vpon his head that sits vpon it besides the pauement is of marble and therein many stones are so placed as lightly touched with a mans foot they cast vp water into his very face and eies There be also well wrought Images of a Serpent biting the finger of a Man and of a Toade creeping to and fro and of a Dragons head bowing downe to drinke water which presently it vomits vp againe The ninth Il satiro the Satire The tenth La mascara a woman with a vizard To conclude there is a large cage of birds made of wier and open to the aire in which are birds of all kindes and many Countries not onely singing to delight the eare but of most pleasant and diuers colours to delight the eye Returning from this garden we rode to the Dukes Pallace called La Petraia where at that time he held his Court such as I shall in due place relate and there we did see Duke Ferdinando and his Dutchesse daughter to the Duke of Loraine and the young Princes and Princesses of the house of Medici walking into the Garden Thence we rode in our returne to Florence to another Pallace of the Dukes called Il Castello being two miles distant from Florence in the Garden whereof wee did see a faire Oke called la Quercetta to the top whereof we ascended by staires and there with the turning of a cock the water sprung vp on all sides There is a Fountaine or a statua of a woman made of mixt mettall richer then brasse called vulgarly di Bronzo and this statua shed water from all the haires of the head and there be seates which cast out water when they are set vpon Here in another Caue are diuers Images of beasts of Marble curiously wrought namely of Elephants Camels Sheepe Harts Wolues and many other beasts admirable for the engrauers worke Here our guide slipped into a corner which was only free from the fall of waters and presently turning a cock powred vpon vs a shower of raine and there with did wet those that had most warily kept themselues from wetting at all the other fountaines This Garden was full of pleasant hills and shades of Cipresse trees and had three Cesternes of Marble to keepe water Hauing now spoken of all the Dukes Pallaces within and neere the Citie giue me leaue to relate by others report that the Duke hath another Pallace ten miles distant from Florence called Il Poggio which he built for the pleasure of hunting This day being thus spent we returned to Florence and the next day wee went out on foote by the South Gate to the stately Monastery of the Carthusians called la Certosa hauing in our company Italian Gentlemen who caused vs to bee well entertained there and inuited to dinner in their publique Refectory where we had great cheare of fish Pastry and Sallats but no flesh which those Friers neuer eate at least not publikely I made mention of this Monastery in my iourney from Sienna to Florence at which time those that did pennance about Easter flocked thither in great troopes and now our Italian Consorts gaue vs the meanes to view the same The Church is stately built and the seates of the Chauncell are of Nut-tree They did shew vs the statua of Saint Chrisostome to the middle of siluer whose relikes also they keepe and they shewed vs one of the pots in which they said Christ turned water into Wine in Cana of Galily whereof the Papists shew many Also a statua of Saint Dennis Areopagita of siluer and like relikes kept there These Friers professe great austeritie in Religion and are tied to keepe silence not Pithagoricall for some yeeres but perpetuall the lay-brethren excepted who doe the manuall workes of the house They neuer eate flesh for such is their rule which if they breake yet they doe it not in the publike place of eating The Priest hauing sung Masse doth after it many times bow downe his head and then falles prostrate on his face praying Each Frier hath foure cells or chambers and his priuate Garden planted with fruit trees and therein a priuate well They haue no beds but sleep vpon straw and eat priuately In their owne Celles only eating together in the publique roomes on the feast dayes so as they may easily in priuate breake this vow of not eating flesh if they list To conclude they giue large almes to the poore and thus by shew of holines getting great riches from Lay-mens gift they think to deserue heauen by giuing them as the prouerb is a pig of their owne sow The seate of this Monastery is very pleasant vpon a Hill or little Mountaine Hence wee returned to Florence All the Cities of Italy haue many houses wherein strangers may hire Chambers called Camere locanti and in Florence there be only three or foure publique Innes all in one streete for daily passengers and three huoses like Colledges called Albergi for those that make long stay in the Citie wherein they may hire Chambers for ten giulij the month the host being tied after the manner of Italy besides their Chamber and bed to dresse their meate and finde them linnen I liuing after this fashion remember these rates of things bought for a pound of Almons vulgarly vna lira di Mandole one giulio a pound of great grapes dried and called Susini sixe creitzers two pigeons one giulio that is eight creitzers two Apricotts a quatrine a pound of Mutton foureteene fifteene or sixteene quatrines a pound of Lambe twelue quatrines two egges fiue or sixe quatrines a pound of Raisons or lesse grapes dried two baelli and of another kinde called Passere sixe baelli two Hennes fortie or fiftie sols two Capons sixtie sols two Apples one quatrine and seuen Apples one baello an Orange two quatrines two Citrones one baello a pound of drie figges seuen or tenne quatrines a pound of the greatest reasons or dried Grapes called Sebibi twelue quatrnies

forme not vnlike to an earthen vessell broad in the bottom and narrow at the mouth which narrow part lies towards the West where comming from Florence you enter by the Gate Camolea Neere the same is a Fort wherein the great Duke keepes souldiers and there without the gate is the Church of Saint Marie whether was great concourse of people for deuotion From hence to the East gate leading towards Rome the streetes lie euen and plaine though the Citie be seated vpon a mount and in this part toward the East the City is broadest and from this gate a man may see the Castle Redicofini forty miles distant vpon the confines of the States of the Pope and the great Duke Betweene the said gates as it were in the center of the City lies a most faire Marketplace in the forme of an Oyster and lying hollow as the shell thereof is And there is a stately Pallace of the Senate built when the Citie was free in the front whereof is a statua of mixt mettall vulgarly called di bronzo which seemes to bee apparelled hauing on the head a broad hat and this statua strikes the houre of the clock On the South-East side within the walles lies a large field which was then sowed with corne yet the Citie hath few or no Gardens within the wall Not farre from the walles on the South-side lies the Cathedrall Church vulgarly called Il Domo and howsoeuer it be little it seemed to me the fairest Church in Italy It hath but one dore to which you ascend by long and broad Marble staires All the pauement is most beautifull of ingrauen Marble adorned with Images of the fiue Sybills and there be in this Church some twentie Images of mixt mettall besides many other of Marble The seates of the Chauncell are of Walnut-tree curiously carued and all the roofe of the Church is painted of skie colour and all set with starres Vpon the inside and in the vpper part of the Church are the Images of the Popes wrought in stone to the shoulders set round about where betweene Gregorie the fourth and Adrian the second I wondred to see the head of Pope Ioane with the inscription naming her especially in a Citie so neere Rome Hauing noted this at Sienna and after my comming into England reading the same I searched Histories to see how they agreed in this matter which the Papists cannot heare with patience And I found in approued Authors that after the said Gregory the fourth succeeded Sergius the second confirmed by the Emperour Lotharius in the yeere 844 then Leo the fourth dying in the yeere 854 then Pope Ioane setting two yeeres and few moneths and dying in the yeere 856 then Benedict the third then Nicholas the Great in the yeere 858 then the foresaid Adrian the second in the yeere 867. And if any man aske why the heads of Sergins the second Leo the fourth Benedict the third and Nicholas the great being omitted the head of Pope Ioane should stand betweene the heads of Gregorie the fourth and Adrian the second I leauing the curious search thereof to them that list dispute it as a matter nothing to my purpose can suddenly giue no other reason thereof then that I coniecture the said heads were set on the other side of the Church for at that time I was content to note the same without casting this doubt and so not searching to satisfie my selfe therein But I dare boldly affirme that my selfe and the two Dutch-gentlemen my consorts did see this monument in this Church neere the doore on the right hand as we came in And since that time I haue conferred with diuers worthy English Gentlemen who affirmed that they did see the same In this Church are two sepulchers one of Pope Alexander the third the other of Pope Pius the second And in a Chappell of this Church is a most faire Font. From this Church discending by slope and steepe streetes towards the South-west wall you shall come to a most pleasant Fountaine called Fonte Branda without the South-gate of which the Citizens prouerbially say that if a stranger drinke thereof he shall so loue Sienna as he shall very vnwillingly and scarce at all depart from the City But the Florentincs in scorne of the Siennesi haue a prouerbe Chi de fonte Branda beue diuenta pazzo He that drinkes of the fountaine Branda becomes a foole It casts out water by nine mouthes of stone and there be three places where Laundresses wash and neere the same is a pleasant groue On the same South side towards the Sea some few miles from the Towne lies a fenny plaine called La Maremma most fruitfull in corne but infamous for ill aire so as the place being forsaken by all Italians is tilled by the Grisons comming downe from the Alpes to this place in winter time when the Alphes are all couered with snow and in the spring time returning backe into their owne Countrey Sienna it selfe is much subiect to raine so as a Spaniard comming often thither in rainy weather did write or is said to haue written to his friend for a wonder that it alwaies rained at Sienna On the North-east side of the City two large fields within the wals are sowed with corne All the pauement of the streets is of bricke which lasteth the longer because there be neither carts nor coaches but all burthens are carried vpon the backes of Asses There is a stately Pallace which Pope Pius the second built who was a Citizen of Sienna of the Family of Picciolomini and there in the Mount Oliuet the passion of Christ is curiously grauen It is vulgarly and truely said that Sienna abounds with Fountaines Towers and faire Weomen There is no better place to liue in through all Italy then the state of Florence and more specially the most sweet City of Sienna The Citizens whereof are most curteous and they haue many publike meetings of the young weomen Virgines to dance where the doore is open for any Citizen or stranger Besides Sienna is commended for the best language and in the same and in all the state of Florence men liue safe from robberies and from the murthers which are frequent in Lombardy Adde that they haue delicate diet at Florence at a reasonable rate and in the rest of the territory at a very cheape rate Our Hostesse at Sienna gaue vs cleane linnen often changed both at bed and boord a large chamber a good bed a linnen canopy oft changed and did prouide our meat very cleanly for which each man paid no morethen ten giulij by the moneth We bought our owne meat and I remember that the price of oyle was twenty fiue lires the barrell that I paid for as much wood as an Asse would beare foure baelli They haue butter but not so good as in the valley of Arno and they sell it twenty two sols the ounce The Magistrate sets a price vpon euery thing to be sold in the

Cities beene In one word I will say what can be said vpon this subiect Euery soyle is to a valiant man his owne Countrey as the Sea to the Fishes We are Citizens of the whole World yea not of this World but of that to come All our life is a Pilgrimage God for his onely begotten Sonnes sake the true Mercury of Trauellers bring vs that are here strangers safely into our true Countrey CHAP. II. Of Precepts for Trauellers which may instruct the vnexperienced I Will follow my purpose and giue precepts not to expert men as Phormio did to Hanniball in military affaires but onely to the vnexperienced and that not curiously as if I would prescribe them euery step they should goe but such as may whet the wits and memories of other men well knowing that many things may be added which are slipped out of my memory and which others may daily find out 1 In the first place as euery man in any course of life so most of all a Traueller who is subiect to many dangers must by his daily prayers sollicite God for his gracious protection All our actions must take beginning from God the fountaine of all good if we desire with the Israelites to haue Gods Cloud and pillar of fier protect vs in our iournies and aboads Let him daily commend himselfe to Gods protection and euen in his iourneys daily at morning and euening not while he siumbers in his bed but in priuate withdrawne from company either kneeling as before his father or standing as before his Master and Lord make his prayers though neuer so short to his almighty and most mercifull God And let no man take this for a needlesse precept for I freely professe that when I was most deuout in this kind I found my selfe hedged about with the good Angell as on the contrary when I neglected the same I often obserued by some manifest accident that I was left to errour and danger 2 Let each Traueller forecast with himselfe his owne purposes and ends For they which are vnskilfull in the Arts of painting caruing and building can neuer worthily praise nor well imitate the rare workes they shall see of these kinds Experience teatheth that no action is wisely vndertaken whereof the end is not forecast in the first place howsoeuer it be last put in execution but since it were infinit to apply my precepts to the seuerall ends of seuerall men and no more possible then for a Physician to cure the Patient not knowing the causes and the progresse of his sickenesse I professe to write especially in this place to the Humanist I meane him that affects the knowledge of State affaires Histories Cosmography and the like and out of that I write let other men apply to their vse what they iudge fit for them And if the Humanist iudge many things I shall write lesse necessary for him let him know that as an Orator and Poet must haue some skill in all Sciences so the Humanist must haue some knowledge of all things which fall into practice and discourse 3 Let a Traueller obserue the vnderwritten things of them some curiously some slightly as he shall iudge them fit for his purpose He shall obserue the fruitfulnes of each Countrey and the things wherewith it aboundeth as the Mines of mettals and precious stones the chiefe lawes and customes of the workers in those Mines also Batches and the qualitie of the water with the diseases for the curing whereof it is most proper the names springs and courses of Riuers the pleasant Fountaines the aboundance or rarity of Pastures Groues Wood Corne and Fruits the rare and precious Plants the rare and proper Beasts the prices of necessary things and what he daily spends in his diet and horsemeat and in hiring Horses or Coaches the soyle of euery dayes iourney the plenty of Fishes or Flesh the kinds of meat or drinke with the sauces and the rarer manners of dressing meates the Countreys expence in apparell with their constancy or ficklenesse in wearing it the races of Horses as the Giannets of Spaine the Coursers of Naples and the heauy Horses of Freesland and how they manage and feed these Horses the scituation of Cities and Prouinces the healthfulnes of the Aire the Chorography the buildings the ritches the magnificence of Citizens their houshold stuffe and in generall all speciall things as Statuaes Colosses Sepulchers with the inscriptions Lybraries with the most rare Bookes Theaters Arches Bridges Forts Armories Treasuries Monasteries Churches publike houses Vniuersities with their Founders reuenewes and disputations To conclude let him visit the most learned men and those that excell in military Art or any vertue and let him conferre with them as his ends require Thus did I visit Beza at Geneua thus did I visit Belarmine at Rome being ready to take Horse and in the habit and person of a Frenchman Thus in my returne did I gladly see Henry the fourth of Burbon King of France famous for the feats of Armes and Wisdome onely Lipsius whom I loued for his Booke of constancy and much desired to see for his vniuersall learning did bereaue me of this hope when I came into the Low-Countreys by his inconstant flight to the Spaniards The Traueller shall further obserue the policy of each State and therein the Courts of each King or Prince with the Courtiers entertainements fees or offices the statures of the Princes their reuenewes the forme of the Common-wealth whether the Prince be a Tyrant or beloued of the people what Forces he hath by Sea or Land the military discipline the manners of the people their vices vertues industry in manuall Arts the constitution of their bodies the History of the Kingdome and since the soule of each man is the man and the soule of the Common-wealth is Religion he shall obserue the disposition of the people whether it be religious superstitious or prophane and the opinions of Religion differing from his and the most rare Ceremonies thereof He shall also obserue the trafficke of Merchants and therein the commodities which they carry out and most want the Hauens and roades for Ships theit skill in nauigation and whether they vse subiects or strangers for their Marriners Lastly the value of the Coynes in each Countrey and the seueral currant peeces and whatsoeuer he shall thinke meet to adde hereunto 4 And because the memory is weake and those who write much are many times like the Clerkes that carry their learning in their Booke not in their braine let him constantly obserue this that whatsoeuer he sees or heares he apply it to his vse and by discourse though forced make it his owne Thus Students of Rhetoricke at first seeking matter for words rather then words for matter at last attaine an easie stile flowing like a still Riuer and lay aside the affectation of words Let nothing worth the knowledge passe his eyes or eares which he draweth not to his owne possession in this sort In the

is the Territory called Lennox whereof the Stewards haue long time been Earles of which Family the late Kings of Scotland are discended and namely Iames the sixth who raised this Earledom to a Dukedome giuing that title to the Lord d'Aubigny and these Daubignij seruing in the French and Neapolitane warres were honoured by the Kings of France with addition of Buckles Or in a field Gueules to their ancient coate of Armes with this inscription Distantia Iungo that is Distant things I ioyne Sterling or Striuelin lyes not farre off a little Citie of the Kings hauing a most strong Castle vpon the brow of a steepe rocke 8 Next these towards the North lay the Caledonij somewhat more barbarous then the rest as commonly they are more rude towards the North where not onely the aire is cold but the Country wast and mountanous And here was the Caledonian Wood so knowne to the Roman Writers as it was by them taken for all Britany and the Woods thereof At this day this Region is called by the Scots Allibawne and by the Latines Albania and containes the Bishoprick Dunkeledon and the Territory Argile so called as neere the Irish of which the Cambellan Family hath the title of Earles of Argile who are the generall Iustices of Scotland by right of inheritance and Great Masters of the Kings Houshold 9 Towards the West lay the Epidij inhabiting a wast and Fenny Country now called Cantire that is a corner of land and next lies Assinshire 10 Next lay the Creones which Region is now called Strathuaern 11 Next lay the Cornouacae at the Promontory Hey 12 On the East-side of the Caledonians lay the Vernicones in the fruitfull little Region called Fife where is the Towne of Saint Andrew Metropolitan of all Scotland 13 The little Region Athol is fertile of which the Stuards of the Family of Lorne haue the title of Earles Here is Strathbolgy the seate of the Earles of Huntly of the Family of the Seatons who tooke the name of Gordan by the authority of a Parliament 14 Next lyes Goury hauing fruitfull fields of Wheate whereof Iohn Lord Rethuen was of late made Earle but Arrell in this Region hath long giuen the title of Earle to the Family of Hayes 15 vnder Fife lyes Angush where is Scone famous for the Kings consecration Montrose hath his Earles of the Family of the Grahames but the Douglasses Earles of Angush of an honorable Eamily were made Gouernours by Robert the third of this Region and these Earles are esteemed the chiefe and principall Earles of all Scotland and it is said that they haue right to carry the Kings Crowne at the solemne assemblies of the Kingdome 16. 17 Next lye the two Regions of Marnia and Marria vpon the sea where is Dunetyre the chiefe seate of the Family of the Keythes who by warlike vertue haue deserued to be the Marshalls of the Kingdome and Aberdene that is the mouth of the Dene is a famous Vniuersity And Queene Mary created Iohn Ereskin Earle of Marre who lately was the Regent of Scotland and is by inheritance Sheriffe of the County of Sterling 18 Next lay the Taizeli where now Buquhan is seated 19 Then towards Murrey Frith the V ocomagi of old inhabited Rosse murray and Nesseland 20 More innerly is the Gulfe Vararis right ouer against the Towne Inuernesse 21 The Cantae possessed the corner of land shooting towards the Sea where is the most safe Hauen Cromer 22. 23 Yet more inwardly where Bean Rosse and Southerland are seated the Lugi and Mertae of old inhabited Thus farre Edward the first King of England subdued all with his victorious Army hauing beaten the Scots on all sides In Southerland are Mountaines of white Marble a very miracle in this cold clyme but of no vse the excesse and magnificence in building hauing not yet reached into these remote parts 24 Further neare Catnesse the Catni of old inhabited the Earles of which Country are of the ancient and Noble Families of the Sint-cleres 25 Vrdehead is thought the remotest Promontory of all Britany where the Cornabij of old inhabited 26 I will in one word mention the Ilands In the Gulfe Glotta or Dunbritten Frith lyes the Iland Glotta called Arran by the Scots giuing the title to an Earle Next that lyes Rothesia now called Buthe whence are the Stewards Kings of Scots as they say Then Hellan the Iland of the Sayntes Without the foresaid Gulfe many Ilands lye thicke together vulgarly called the Westerne Ilands and numbred forty foure being of old called by some Hebrides by others Inchades and Leucades and by many as Ptolomy Ebudae Ina one of these Ilands haue a Monastery famous for the buriall of the Kings of Scotland and for the habitation of many holy men among which was Columbus the Apostle of the Picts of whose Cell the Iland was also named Columbkill The Scots bought all these Ilands of the Norwegians as a great strength to the Kingdome though yeelding very little profit the old inhabitants whether Scots or Irish being of desperare daring and impatient of being subiect to any lawes Neare these lye the Orcades vulgarly Orkney about thirty in number yeelding competent quantity of Barley but no Wheate or trees The chiese whereof is Pomonia well knowne by the Episcopall seate and yeelding both Tynne and Leade These Orcades Ilands were subiect to the Danes and the inhabitants speake the Gothes language but Christiern King of the Danes sold his right to the King of Scotland Fiue dayes and nights sayle from the Orcades is the Iland Thule so often mentioned by Poets to expresse the furthest corner of the World whereupon Virgill saith Tibi seruiet vltima Thule that is The furthest Thule shall thee serue Many haue thought that Iseland was this Thule condemned to cold ayre and perpetuall Winter but Camden thinkes rather that Schotland is Thule which the Marriners now call Thilensall being subiect to the King of Scotland In the German Sea towards the coast of Britany are few Ilands saue onely in Edenburg Frith where these are found May Basse Keth and Inche-colme that is the Iland of Columbus Scotland reaching so farre into the North must needs be subiect to excessiue cold yet the same is in some sort mitigated by the thicknesse of the cloudy aire and sea vapours And as in the Northerne parts of England they haue small pleasantnes goodnesse or abundance of Fruites and Flowers so in Scotland they haue much lesse or none at all And I remember that comming to Barwick in the moneth of May wee had great stormes and felt great cold when for two moneths before the pleasant Spring had smiled on vs at London On the West side of Scotland are many Woodes Mountaines and Lakes On the East side towards the Sea I passed Fife a pleasant little Territory of open fields without inclosures fruitfull in Corne as bee all the partes neare Barwick saue that they yeeld little wheate and much

liue for the day in continuall feare of like mischiefes Yet is not Ireland altogether destitute of these flowers and fruites wherewith the County of Kilkenny seemes to abound more then any other part And the said humility of aire and land making the fruits for food more raw and moyst hereupon the inhabitants and strangers are troubled with loosenes of body the Country disease Yet for the rawnes they haue an excellentremedy by their aquauitae vulgarly called Vsqucbagh which binds the belly and drieth vp moysture more then our Aquauitae yet in flameth not so much Also inhabitants aswell as strangers are troubled there with an ague which they call the Irish. Ague and they who are sick thereof vpon a receiued custome doe not vse the helpe of the Phisitian but giue themselues to the keeping of Irish women who starue the ague giuing the sick man no meate who takes nothing but milke and some vulgarly knowne remedies at their hand Ireland after much bloud spilt in the Ciuill warres became lesse populous and aswell great Lords of countries as other inferiour Gentlemen laboured more to get new possessions for inheritance then by husbandry and peopling of their old lands to increase their reuenues so as I then obserued much grasse wherewith the Iland so much abounds to haue perished without vse and either to haue rotted or in the next spring-time to bee burnt lest it should hinder the comming of new grasse This plenty of grasse makes the Irish haue infinite multitudes of cattle and in the heate of the last Rebellion the very vagabond Rebels had great multitudes of Cowes which they stil like the Nomades droue with them whither soeuer themselues were driuen and fought for them as for their altars and families By this abundance of cattle the Irish haue a frequent though somewhat poore trafficke for their hides the cattle being in generall very little and onely the men and the Grey-hounds of great statute Neither can the cattell possibly bee great since they eat onely by day and then are brought at euening within the Bawnes of Castles where they stand or lye all night in a dirty yard without so much as a lock of hay whereof they make little for sluggishnesse and that little they altogether keep for their Horses And they are thus brought in by nights for feare of theeues the Irish vsing almost no other kind of theft or else for feare of Wolues the destruction whereof being neglected by the inhabitants oppressed with greater mischiefes they are so much growne in number as sometimes in Winter nights they will come to prey in Villages and the subburbes of Cities The Earle of Ormond in Mounster and the Earle of Kildare in Lemster had each of them a small Parke inclosed for Fallow Deare and I haue not seene any other Parke in Ireland nor haue heard that they had any other at that time yet in many Woods they haue many red Deare loosely scattered which seeme more plentifull because the inhabitants vsed not then to hunt them but onely the Gouernours and Commanders had them sometimes killed with the piece They haue also about Ophalia and Wexford and in some parts of Mounster some Fallow Deare scattered in the Woods Yet in the time of the warre I did neuer see any Venison serued at the table but onely in the houses of the said Earles and of the English Commanders Ireland hath great plenty of Birds and Fowles but by reason of their naturall sloth they had little delight or skill in Birding or Fowling But Ireland hath neither singing Nightingall nor chattering Pye nor vndermining Moule nor blacke Crow but onely Crowes of mingled colour such as wee call Royston Crowes They haue such plenty of Pheasants as I haue knowne sixtie serued at one feast and abound much more with Rayles but Partridges are somewhat rare There be very many Eagles and great plenty of Hares Conies Hawkes called Gosse-Hawkes much esteemed with vs and also of Bees as well in Hiues at home as in hollow trees abroad and in caues of the earth They abound in flocks of Sheepe which they sheare twise in the yeere but their wooll is course Merchants may not export it forbidden by a Law made on behalfe of the poore that they may be nourished by working it into cloth namely Rugs whereof the best are made at Waterford mantles generally worne by men and women and exported in great quantity Ireland yeelds much flax which the inhabitants work into yarne export the same in great quātity And of old they had such plenty of linnen cloth as the wild Irish vsed to weare 30 or 40 elles in a shirt al gathered and wrinckled and washed in Saffron because they neuer put them off til they were worne out Their horses called hobbies are much commen ded for their ambling pace beuty but Ireland yeelds few horses good for seruice in war and the said hobbies are much inferior to our geldings in strength to endure long iournies being bred in the fenny soft ground of Ireland are soone lamed when they are brought into England The hawkes of Ireland called Goss-hawks are as I said much esteemed in England and they are sought out by mony all meanes to be transported thither Ireland yeelds excellent Marble neere Dublin Killkenny and Corke and I am of their opinion who dare venture all they are worth that the Mountaines would yeeld abundance of Mettals if this publike good were not hindred by the inhabitants barbarousnes making them apt to seditions and so vnwilling to inrich their Prince Country and by their slothfulnesse which is so singular as they hold it basenesse to labour and by their pouerty not able to beare the charge of such workes besides that the wiser sort think their pouerty best for the publike good making them peaceable as nothing makes them sooner kick against authoritie then riches Ireland hath in all parts pleasant Riuers safe and lange Hauens and no lesse frequent Lakes of great circuit yeelding great plenty of fish And the sea on all sides yeelds like plentie of excellent fish as Salmonds Oysters which are preferred before the English and shel-fishes with all other kinds of Sea-fish So as the Irish might in all parts haue abundance of excellent sea and fresh-water fish if the fisher men were not so possessed with the naturall fault of slothfulnesse as no hope of gaine scarsely the feare of authoritie can in many places make them come out of their houses and put to sea Hence it is that in many places they vse Scots for Fisher-men and they together with the English make profit of the inhabitants sluggishnesse And no doubt if the Irish were industrious in fishing they might export salted and dried fish with great gaine In time of peace the Irish transport good quantity of Corne yet they may not transport it without license left vpon any sudden rebellion the Kings forces and his good subiects should want Corne. Vlster and the