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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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Bathing places built like prouinces And iudge whether of vs hath more reason by that which we read in the Exceptis Olymp●odori where it s sayd that these bathes of Antoninus had a thousand six hundred seats of polished marble for as many persons to sit and bath in a part nay some of those bathing places were paued with syluer and were adorned so curiously with syluer pipes for the water with statues pictures and pretious stones that Seneca cryes out Eo deliciarum Venimus vt nisi gemmas cal●●re nolimus we are comne to that delicacy that we scorne to trend vpon any thing but jewels Now these bathes serue onely for the Roman Seminarists to recreate in Returning from hence between the Mount Auentin and the Mount Palatin I saw the place where the Circus Maximus stood This was the greatest of all the Circos in Rome as its name shews It was begun by Tarquinius Priscus but afterwards much augmented by Iulius Caesar and Augustus It was three stades long and four akers wide The Roman stade was 625 foot or 125 paces At last it was adorned with statues and pillars by Traian and Heliogabulus A hundred and fifty thousand men could sit conueniently in the three open galleryes One of which was for the Senators the second for the gentlemen and the third for the common people The two great Obelicks to wit that before Porta del Populo and that before S. Iohn Laterans stood in it Vnder this building were many Vaulted Caues called in Latin Fornices where lewd women prostituted themselues for money and so from these Fornices came the word Fornication Going from hence to S. Georges Church I saw on my right hand the goodly ruines of the Emperors pallace called Palazzo Maggiore It possessed almost all the Palatin hill as the ruines shew Stately ruines I confesse but ruines and Imperiall ruines And here I could not but wonder to see the pallace of the persecuting Emperors ruined quite and the Church of the poore Fisherman standing still more glorious then euer Before I came to S. Georges Church I stept into S. Anastasias Church which was anciently the Temple of Neptune and from thence to the old square Temple commonly held to be the Temple of Ianus Quadrifrons and with some reason because it hath four dores in it and twelue Niches vpon euery side of the squar out side The four dores represented the four Seasons of the yeare the twelue niches the twelue months of the yeare yet others will haue it to haue been onely an Arche or Portick or a Lodge Georges Church hard by to which Church is ioyned on old Arche curiously carued in marble which was erected here by the marchants or goldsmiths to the Emperours Seuerus and M. Aurelius Neare vnto this Church of S. George came anciently the water of Tyber and this water or creek of the riuer was called Velabrum because men passed ouer the riuer here by boat and sometime with a little sayle when the wind stood fair From hence I went to the round Church of S. Theodoro standing in the Foro Boario This was anciently the Temble of Romulus and Remus because it was here that those two brothers where exposed and nurrished by a shee woolf which found them here Not farre from hence I stept into the Hospital of our Lady of Consolation This was once the Temple of Vesta And here it was that the Vestal Virgins instituted by Numa kept the Eternal fire the extinguishing of which was held by the superstitious Heathnes fatal to the state and therefore they comitted the keeping of this fire to Virgins of great repute and honour These Virgins were to be ten years in learning their profession ten yeares more in exerciseing it and other ten yeares more in teaching it to others And for this reason they had great priuiledges giuen them For if in going vp and downe the City they met by chance a criminel man going to be executed they had power to free him If any of these Vestals forgetting her self had wrongd her Virginity they would not out of reuerence to her profession lay Violent hands on her by the common executioner but they buryed her aliue in a low vault made for the nonce From hence I entered into the Campo Vaccino and presently fell vpon three pillars of admirable structure They helondg to the Temple of Iupiter Stator built by Romulus The occasion was this Romulus in a battle against the Sabins seing his men giue back made a vow presently to Iupiter that if he would stop their flight and make them stand to it he would build him a Temble Siste foedam fugam sayd he to Jupiter The men stood and the Temple was built to Iupiter stator who made men stand But this Iupiter Stator could not make his owne Temple stand for it s now so ruined that antiquaryes are scarce sure where it stood Close to these three pillars stands the Church of Santa Maria Liberatrice at the fott of the Pallatin hill Why this Church is so called both a long writeing in the Church and Baronius in his Annals tell at length Neare to this Church stood the Lacus C●rtii a stincking puddle which annoyd the Romans much and which the Oracle assured was not to be stopt vp but by casting into it the most pretious thing in Rome Hereupon the Ladyes threw in their best iewels and the noblemen euery one what he had the most pretious but all in Vaine At last Curtius a braue yong nobleman thinking that there was nothing more pretious then a gallant man mounting on horseback in a braue equipage in sight of all the people iumpt into this Lake aliue as a victime deuoted to his countries seruice and the hole hereupon closed I confesse a braue Caualier is a pretious iewel indeed and I remember that a Roman Lady hauing shewed her iewels to Cornelia the mother of the Grachi and hauing desired her to shew also her iewels she called for her two yong sonns braue youths and sayd here Madame are my iewels and in my opinion Curtius was somewhat vainglorious to think himself to be the brauest man in the Citie if the Votes and iudgment of all the people had declared him to be so as they did afterwards declare Scipio Nasita to be the best man of all the Romans and the matrons declared sulpitia to be the chastest matron of her time then he might haue deuoted himself more freely for his countrys safety Going on from hence on the right hand still I came to the dore of Farneses garden This garden stands vpon the Mount Palatin where anciently the Emperors had their Pallace which tooke vp all the vpper part of this hill but not all the skirts of it for I finde that the Goddesse Feauer and the Goddesse Viriplaca had their Temples here and Catalin and Cicero their houses Entring into this Garden I
vpon an ebeny frame the whole worth 12000 crownes a rare cabinet with the picture of our blessed Lady in it the whole valued at 6000 crownes a sword whose hilt is of three great Turky stones of great Value a basin of gold set thick with Turky stones three or four great Besoars stones as big as pearmanes which had been presented to Clement the VIII from all parts because he stood in need of them a rich miter set with pretious stones of great Value a world of curious originals of the best painters hands curious saddles harnesse liueryes of show embrodered with gold and syluer with many other rich curiosities The other pallaces in the Corso are these that of Prencipe Carboniano that of Cardinal Franciotti that of Don Augustino Chisi that of Prencipe L●douisio that of the Duke Caetano There are also in this street some Churches worth takeing notice of as that of S. Maria in Via Lata which stands neere the Pallace of the Prince Pamfilio It s an ancient Church and a Cardinals title Baronius sayth that it s built there where S. Paul lodged at his first comeing to Rome It s sayd also that in the Oratory here S. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles There is also in the Corso the Church of S. Marcello a title of a Cardinal It was built in the place where anciently stood the Temple of the infamous Egyptian Godesse Isis which Tiberius himself caused to be pulled downe the Idol throwne into Tyber and all the Priests of it to be crucifyed for hauing fauoured a great crime comitted by a Roman Lady Behinde this Church stands the Oratory of S. Marcello called the Oratory of the holy Crucifix where there is a famous Confraternity in which many noble men of Rome are enrolled Euery friday in Lent there is excellent musick and one of the best preachers in Rome From hence also in the Holy yeare I saw march a procession of 15000 men all in black buckram coats to the heeles with a white torch in their hands and they went from hence on the night of Manday Thursday vnto S. Peters Church Then the Church of S. Carlo in Corso where J saw the heart of S. Charles Borromeo in a Cristal case This Church belongs to the Milanesi Then the Church of S. Iacomo de gl'Incurabili a neat round Church belonging to the Hospital here where they that are afflicted with incurable diseases are entertained and well tended Lastly the Church of the penitent whores with their Conuent where all those poore souls that repent themselues of their bad life are receiued and kept all their life time at the cost of this Conuent And here I found a great difference between this Conuent and the house in Amsterdam where whores are clapt vp For here these poore souls are locked vp with their owne consent and desire there they are lockt vp by force and violence Here the poore women do great acts of austerityes and penance as the bloody walls of their Celles layd open by a conflagration shewed vnto all the Citie there the yong women laugh and are merry Here no man is permitted to speak alone with them except their Confessor physitian there many men go to prattle and passe their time with those wanton girles at a separation of rayles Here a Vayle hides these poore womens faces there I saw diuers with black patches on their faces Here all signes of true repentance are seen there none Here the loue of vertue and penāce locks vp these there the Vice of Loue locks in those and not true repentance For really all the repentance I saw there was that it repented me that I had suffered mine hoste who would needs shew me all the rarityes of Amsterdam to lead me thither O but sayd a Holander to me the Pope allowes whores in Rome To whom I answered no more Sr then your states do drunkenness which is a greater sinn of the two because it rides double and carryeth luxury behinde it Do not drink wine in which is luxury Ephes 5. But sayth an English writer I am told that the Pope both permits them and takes money of them too for that permission You haue been told many other false tales by those who think it lawfull to tell vntruths so they speak but against the Pope in the meane time I that haue been fiue times in Rome can tell you the contrary if by permitting you meane allowing and aproueing of them in that course There 's a great difference between allowing and permitting a thing Moyses allowed not but yet permitted the libel of diuorce to the Iewes for the hardness of their hearts So vsury is permitted but not allowed in diuers countries for trades sake But why takes he money of them This money is taken vp by you vpon credit not the Pope For the Pope is so farre from receiuing any money of these drabbs that he goes to great cost to hinder their trading No man perhaps hath told you this and therefore I le tell it you know then that the Pope to hinder all yong women from being naught hath founded Hospitals for poore girles where they are carefully brought vp till they become either marryed wifes or Nunns Nay he giues them dowries also to execute this their choyce distributeing yearly vpon the Feast of our Ladyes day in Lent in the Church of the Domicans supra Mineruam a purse of money a peece to three hundred yong mayds who are presented to him by the ouerseers of the foresayd Hospitals Nor is this all for he causeth yong girles of tender yeares to be taken from their poore suspected mothers least pouerty quae cogit ad turpia should make them sacrifice those tender virgins to rich mens lusts In fine he hath caused a Monastery to be built in Rome to receiue those poore vnfortunate women in who would leaue that infamous course if they had but meanes to liue on Nay he granteth Indulgences to any that will marry any of those women to free them from that lewd course and make them mend All this the Pope doth and much more which would be a destroying of his owne trade and gayne if it were true that he countenanceth and alloweth of whores for his gayne No miller euer deturned the current of water from his owne mill But why doth not the Pope discountenance and punish whores that are knowne to be such He doth so For is it not a discountenanceing of them to forbid them to come to publick meetings and assemblyes where women of honour meet as at the Corso in the euenings at publick mariages at their sung operas and the like is it not a discountenanceing of them to forbid thē to go in coaches in the day time or to stirre out of dores in the night Is it not a punishment to them to forbid them to liue together where they might encourage one an other and
gl'Incurabili The Conuent of the repented whores Objection Answer Obiect Answ Fenton in his treatis of vsury l. 2. c. 9. Matth. 19.8 Obiect Answ Petrus a S. Romualdo in his Cronologicall Treasur Obiect Answ Tacit. annal 2. Obiect Answ Obiect Answ Seneca In c. 8. l. 1. Reg. Obiect Answ Luke 9. S. Tho. 2.2 q. 10. art 11. in corpore S. Syluestro in Capite Colonna Antonina The Seauen hills of Rome Mons Capitolinus Palatinus Auentinus Coelius Esquilinus Viminalis Quirinalia Ianiculus Vaticanus Pincius or Hortuorū The Pazzorella The Roman Colledge Kerkerius his gallery La Minerua Sant Andrea della Valle. Pietro della Valle Caualier Pozzo The Pallace of Matthei The Cancellaria San Lorenzo in Damaso The Pallace of Farnese The statue of Alexander Farnesi The famous Bull. Ponte Sisto The Hospital of the holy Trinity S. Girolamo della Charita The English Colledge The Chiesa Nuona Cardinal Caesar Baronius The Oratory La Pace Pasquin S. Pantaeleon Piazza Nauona The Church of S. Agnes The Palazzo Pamphilio S. Iacomo The Sapienza S. Lewis The Pallace of Iustiniani Cassiod l. 7. S. Eustachio The Rotonda or Pantheo● S. Lorenzo in Lucina The Pallace of Burghesi Mausoleum Augusti Sueton. S. Ant. di Padua S. Augustino Bibliotheca Angelica Ioachims Prophecie of the Turks S. Apollinaris The German Colledge The Pallozzo d'Altemps S. John Florentins Church Tertull. Lib. de Spectac c. 10. Petrarc In Remed vtriusq Fort. Deuotion in Rome The musick of Rome The Ceremonies The Shows of Rome Sacred Prophane The Gouerment of Rome That of the Citie That of the Church The Inhabitants of Rome Euseb in Chronico Cassiod Epist Rome a fine place to liue in And a fine place to dye in My iourney from Rome to Naples Marino Veletri Tre Taberne Peperno Fossa N●ona Taracina Amiclae Seru. in lib. 10. Aeneid Amyclas silentium perdidit Prouerb apud S. Hieron Fundi Leo Afer The Via Appia See Plutarch in Graccho Procop. l. 1. d● bell Goth Mola Formiae Val. Max. l. 1. c. 4. Caëta The Bp. of Belley in his historyes Bourbons Body The Clouen Rock Ciceros Grotte The Ferry of Carigliano Minturna Plutark Campania Foelix Capua See S. Aug. c. 2. de morib Eccles And S. Thom. 2.2 qu. 64. art 5. Auersa Naples Petr. a S. Roma aldo in his Cronolog Treasor The Kingdome of Naples It s importance to Spayne It s Greatnesse It s strenth The towne of Naples The Churches of Naples Baronius Breuiarium Rom. Petrus a S. Romualdo in his Treasor Cronolog ad an 1604. The Annunciata S. Paul● The Iesuits Church S. Maria No● The Dominicans Church The Oliuetan The stately Monastery of the Carthusians Barclay Icon Animorum Castle S. Elmo Castel Vouo Castel Nouo The Markets an 1647 The Academies of wits Learned men The Moūtain Vesuuius See Bakers Cronicle in Henric. ● Hells Chimneys Our iourney to Puzzuolo Sannazarius his tombe Virgils tombe The Grotte of Pausilipo Grotta del Cane The stones of S. Gennaro The Capucins The Sulphatara Puzzuolo Pliny and Vitrunius Baiae Mercato di Sabato The Elizian Fields Piscina Mirabili Promont Miseni Mare mortuum Cento Camerelle Agrippinas Tombe Ciceros bathes The Bathes of Tritola Lacus Auernus The Grotte of Sibylla Cumaea Tertull. Monte Nuouo The History of Naples Take heed of the Gabellers of Fundi Albano Castel Gandulfo Frescati The Villa Aldobrandina Beluedere The Cascata The Girandola The Centaure Pan. The Lyon and the Leopard The Hall of Apollo The water Organ A terrible wetting place Villa Ludouisia Montedragone Tiuoli Old Tybur The Cascata Villa d'Esté Via Flaminia Ponte Molo Tiber. Narni Terni Spoleto Plato l. 12 de Legib The Valley of Spoleto Foligni Assisium Montefalco Tolentino Macerata Recanata Loreto See Turselinus his history of the House of Loreto The Holy House of Loreto The Treasory * In his hist of Loreto l. 3. c. 25. The Apothecaries shop Ancona Senegallia Fano Pesaro Catholica Rimini Cesena Forli Rubicon Faenza Plin. l. 18. c. 26. Arist l. 1. de partib animal c. 3. Ferrara The Rarities The Di●mant Pallace Ariosto Tombe The Acadimy of wits The Learned men The history Ruigo Adria La Laguna The origin of Venice Est-elle belle Est elle grande Est elle riche Quelle aige a elle Venice now The Gondolas Bridges in Venice The Rialto The Gourement The Great Counsel The Dogè Procuratori di San Marco Their Strength Loschi in Compendi● Histor Palma Noua Their Riches Their Religion Their Interest The noble men of Venice The noble women of Venice● S. Marks Church Baronius an 1190. The Treasory of S. Mark The Spiritual Treasor The Temporal Treasure The Dogès Pallace The little Arsenal Sabellicus ●ec 2 l. 1. The Piazza of S. Mark The High steeple The Arsenal The Assensa The Corso at Murano The Fayre S. Georges The Pallace of Signore Nani The Capucins Madonna di Salute La Carita Ss. Giouanne Paulo S. Saluatore S. Chrysostome The Domo S. Iacomo The Greeks Church The Iewes Synagogue The Glasse houses at murano The shops The Pallaces The Learned Men. The Academy of wits The Historians The Defects of Venice Padua Antenors Tombe S. Antonies Church S. Iustinas Church Monastery The great Hall S. Augustino L'Arena S. Dominico S. Francesco S. Thomaso di Cantuaria The Academies of wits The learned Men. The Historians Vicenza The Theater The Academy of ●its The Histo●ians Verona The Amphitheater The Academy of wits The learnmened The Historians Peschiera Lago di Garda Disenzano Brescia The History Crema Bergamo Mantua Valer Maxim l. 2. c. 1. The Dukes Family His Reuenues His Interest Casal His strenth it s Learned Mem. It s History Mirandola Franciscus Pius Leander Albatus Io Picus Miranduilanus