slaughter of them when at Lapis Tituli for so is that place named in Ninnius which we now call Stouar almost in the same sense and haven certainely it was hee put them to flight and forced them with all the speed they might to take their Pinnaces In which place also he gave commandement saith he that himselfe should bee buried to represse thereby as he thought the furious outrages of the English Saxons in like sort as Scipio Africanus did who commanded that his tombe should bee so set as that it might looke toward Africa supposing that his verie tombe would be a terror to the Carthaginians Here also at VVipped fleet so called of VVipped the Saxon there slaine Hengest discomfited the Britaines and put them to flight after hee had sore tired them with sundry conflicts S. Austine our Apostle as they call him many yeares after landed in this Isle unto whose blessing the credulous Clergie ascribed the plentifull fertility of the country and the Monke Gotceline cried out in this manner O the land of Tenet happy by reason of her fertilitie but most happy for receiving and entertaining so many Divine in-commers bringing God with them or rather so many heavenly citizens Egbert the third King of the Kentishmen to pacifie dame Domneva a devout Lady whom before time he had exceedingly much wronged granted here a faire piece of land wherein she errected a Monastery for 70. veiled virgins the prioresse whereof was Mildred for her holinesse canonized a Saint and the Kings of Kent bestowed many faire possessions upon it but Withred especially who that I may note the antiquitie and manner of livery of Seisin in that age out of the very forme of his owne Donation For the full complement of his confirmation thereof laied upon the holy altar a turfe of that ground which he gave at Humantun Heere afterward sundry times arrived the Danes who piteously empoverished this Island by robbings and pillages and also polluted this Monasterie of Domneva with all kind of cruelty that it flourished not againe before the Normans government Heere also landed Lewis of France who called in by the tumultuous Barons of England against King Iohn published by their instigation a pretended right to the Crowne of England For that whereas King Iohn for his notorious treason against King Richard his brother absent in the Holy-land was by his Peeres lawfully condemned and therefore after the death of King Richard the right of the Crowne was devolved to the Queene of Castile sister to the said King Richard and that shee and her heires had conveied over their right to the said Lewis and his wife her daughter Also that King Iohn had forfeited his Kingdome both by the murther of his Nephew Arthur whereof he was found guilty by his Peeres in France and also by subjecting his Kingdomes which were alwaies free to the Pope as much as in him lay contrary to his oath at his Coronation and that without the consent of the Peeres of the Realme c. Which I leave to Historians with the successe of his expedition least I might seeme to digresse extraordinarily Neither must I passe over heere in silence that which maketh for the singular praise of the inhabitants of Tenet those especially which dwell by the roads or harbours of Margate Ramsgate and Brodstear For they are passing industrious and as if they were Amphibii that is both land creatures and sea creatures get their living both by sea and land as one would say with both these elements they be Fisher-men and Plough-men as well Husband-men as Mariners and they that hold the plough-taile in earing the ground the same hold the helme in steering the ship According to the season of the yeare they knit nets they fish for Cods Herrings Mackarels c. they saile and carry forth Merchandise The same againe dung and mannure their grounds Plough Sow harrow reape their Corne and they inne it Men most ready and well appointed both for sea and land and thus goe they round and keepe a circle in these their labours Futhermore whereas that otherwhiles there happen shipwrackes heere for there lie full against the shore those dangerous flats shallowes shelves and sands so much feared of Sailers which they use to call The Goodwinsands The Brakes The four-foots The whitdick c. these men are wont to bestir themselves lustily in recovering both ships men and Merchandize endangered At the mouth of Wantsum Southward which men thinke hath changed his channell over against the Isle stood a City which Ptolomee calleth RHVTVPIAN Tacitus PORTVS TRVTVLENSIS for Rhutupensis if Beatus Renanus conjectureth truely Antonine RHITVPIS PORTVS Ammianus Marcellinus RHVTVPIAH STATIO that is the Road of Rhutupiae Orosius THE HAVEN and City of Rhutubus the old English-Saxons as Beda witnesseth Reptacesler others Ruptimuth Alfred of Beverly nameth it Richberge we at this day Richborow Thus hath time sported in varying of one and the same name Whence this name should arise it is not for certaine knowen But seeing the places neere unto it as Sandwich and Sandiby have their denomination of Sandi I considering also that Rhyd Tufith in the British-tongue betokeneth a sandy fourd I would willingly if I durst derive it from thence This City seemed to have beene seated on the descent of an hill the Castle there stood overlooking from an higher place the Ocean which is now so farre excluded by reason of sandy residence inbealched with the tides that it comes hardly within a mile of it Right famous and of great name was this City while the Romans ruled here From hence was the usual passing out of Britan to France and the Neatherlands at it the Roman fleets arrived here it was that Lupicinus sent by Constantius the Emperour into Britaine for to represse the rodes and invasions of Scots and Picts both landed the Heruli and Batavians and Maesian regiments Heere also Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour to whom as Symmachus witnesseth the Senate decreed for pacifying Britan armed Statues on horse-backe arrived with his Herculij Iovij Victores Fidentes for these were names of Roman regiments Afterwards when the Saxon Pirates impeached entercourse of merchants and infested our coasts with continuall piracies the Second Legion Augusta which being remooved by the Emperour Claudius out of Germany had remained many yeares in Garrison at Isea Silurum in Wales was translattd hither and had a Provost of their owne heere under the great Lieutenant and Count of the Saxon shore Which Provostship happily that Clemens Maximus bare who being heere in Britan by the soldiers saluted Emperour slew Gratian the lawfull Emperour and was afterwards himselfe slaine by Theodosius at Aquileia For this Maximus it was whom Ausonius in the verses of Aquileia called the Rhutupine robber Maximus armigeri quondam sub nomine lixae Faelix quae tanti spectatrix laeta triumphi Fudisti Ausonio Rhutupinum Marte latronem
will in short space be covered over with a stony barke and turne into stone as it hath beene often observed In the Territory there by Liquirice groweth in great abundance and a yellower and softer kinde of marle is there found passing good to make the ground fertile The Keeper or chiefe Ranger of the Forest adjoyning was in times past one Gamell whose posterity of their habitation at Screven assumed the name of Screven and from them descended the Slingsbey who received this Forestership of king Edward the First and to this day live here in great and good regard Nid having passed by these places not farre from Allerton the seat of a very ancient and famous family of the Malliveries who in old Deeds and Records are called Mali Leporarij goeth on a little way and then meeting Ouse augmenteth the streame of Ouse by his confluence As for Vre he also springing out of these Westerne hilles but on the other side of the Country in North-Ricding when by this name he hath watered the North part of the Shire a little before he commeth to Rippon serveth for the limite dividing the North and West Ridings one from another This Rippon in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 being placed betweene Vre and Skell a rill is beholden to religious Houses for all the dignity it had and especially to a Monastery built in the primitive Church of the English-Saxons by Wilfride Archbishop of Yorke and that with such arched and embowed Vaults with such floorings and stories of stone-worke with such turnings and windings in and out of Galleries so saith William of Malmesbury that it was wonderfull Which the Danes afterward being so violent and outrageous that they spared neither God nor man raced together with the Towne Yet flourished it againe repaired by meanes of Odo Archbishop of Canterbury who being a very great master of ceremoniall mysteries translated from hence to Canterbury the Reliques of Wilfride But since the Normans arrivall it prospered most when the Castles as one saith of Monkes beganne to bee built in greater number For then both the Towne grew famous partly under the chiefe Magistrate whom they call by an old Saxon word Wakeman as one would say Watchman and partly by their industry in clothing which at this day is much diminished and the Monastery likewise under the tuition and protection of the Archbishops of Yorke beganne marveilously to reflourish Besides a very faire Church was there also built at the charitable charges of the Noblemen and Gentry dwelling thereabout and of their owne Treasurer which with three high Spire-steeples doth welcome those that come to the towne and did as it were emulate in workemanship the wealthy Abbay of Fountaines built within the sight of it by Thurstin Archbishop of Yorke On the one side of this Church wee saw a little College of â—inging men which Henry Bath Archbishop of Yorke erected on the other side a very great mount of earth called Hilshow cast up as they report by the Danes Within the Church Saint Wilfrides Needle was in our Grandfathers remembrance very famous A narrow hole this was in the Crowdes or close vaulted roome under the ground whereby womens honesty was tried For such as were chast did easily passe through but as many as had plaied false were miraculously I know not how held fast and could not creepe through The Abbay Fountaines aforesaid most pleasantly seated in a right plentifull Country and having Lead mines neere it had the originall from twelve precise Monkes of Yorke who fervently zealous to serve God in a more strict kinde of life forsooke their cloistures and addicted themselves to the ordinances of Saint Bernard For whom after they had reaped many Harvests of troubles Thurstine Archbishop of Yorke built this Abbay which was acknowledged an immediate daughter of Clarevalle and in a few yeeres became a mother to many others as Kirkstall Salley Meaux c. I have made more willingly mention of these because Saint Bernard in his Epistles so highly approved their life and discipline Not farre beneath there standeth by Vre a little Towne called Burrow bridge of the bridge that is made over the River which now is built very high and faire of stone worke but in King Edward the Second his time it seemeth to have beene of wood For wee reade that when the Nobles of England disquieted the King and troubled the State Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford in his going over it was at a chinke thereof thrust through the body about his groine by a souldier lying close under the Bridge Neere unto this Bridge Westward we saw in three divers little fields foure huge stones of Pyramidall forme but very rudely wrought set as it were in a streight and direct line The two Pyramides in the middest whereof the one was lately pulled downe by some that hoped though in vaine to finde treasure did almost touch one another the uttermore stand not farre off yet almost in equall distance from these on both sides Of these I have nothing else to say but that I am of opinion with some that they were Monuments of victory erected by the Romanes hard by the High Street that went this way For I willingly overpasse the fables of the common people who call them the Devils Bolts which they shot at ancient Cities and therewith overthrew them Yet will not I passe over this that very many and those learned men thinke they are not made of naturall stone indeed but compounded of pure sand lime vitriol whereof also they say there be certaine small graines within and some unctuous matter Of such a kinde there were in Rome cisternes so firmely compact of very strong lime and sand as Plinie writeth that they seemed to be naturall stones A little Eastward from this Bridge IS-URIUM BRIGANTUM an ancient City so called of the River Vre running by it flourished in ancient times but was rased to the very ground many ages past Neverthelesse the Village risen up neere the place giveth testimony of the Antiquity thereof for it is called Ealdburgh and Aldborrow But in that very plot of ground where the said City stood are now arable grounds and pastures so that scarce any footing thereof doth appeare Surely the very credite of Writers should have had much adoe to make us beleeve that this had beene IS-URIUM but that URE the Rivers name the Romane Coine daily digged up and the distance according to Antonines account betwixt this and Yorke warranted it For by that Vre which the Saxons afterward named Ouse because it hath entertained Ousburne a little River is gone sixteene Italian miles from hence hee runneth through the City EBORACUM or EBURACUM which Ptolomee in the second booke of his Great Construction calleth BRIGANTIUM if the said booke bee not corrupted because it was the chiefe City of the Brigantes Ninnius calleth it Caer Ebrauc the Britans Caer Effroc the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
the Fresian sea and the Scottish sea and the Eulogium Morwiridh Upon this after you be past Tantallon are seated first North-Berwick a famous place sometime for an house there of religious Virgins and then Dyrlton which belonged in times past to the notable family of the Haliburtous and now to S. Tho. Ereskin Captain of the guard whom James K. of great Britain for his happy valour in preserving him against the traiterous attempts of Gowrye first created Baron of Dirlton and afterward advanced him to the honourable title of Vicount Felton making him the first Vicount that ever was in Scotland Against these places there lyeth in the sea not far from the shore the Iland Bas which riseth up as it were all one craggy rocke and the same upright and steep on every side yet hath it a Block-house belonging to it a fountaine also and pastures but it is so hollowed with the waves working upon it that it is almost pierced thorough What a multitude of sea-foules and especially of those geese which they call Scouts and Soland geese flocke hither at their times for by report their number is such that in a cleere day they take away the sunnes light what a sort of fishes they bring for as the speech goeth a hundred garrison souldiers that here lay for defence of the place fed upon no other meat but the fresh fish that they brought in what a quantity of stickes and little twigges they get together for the building of their nests so that by their meanes the inhabitants are abundantly provided of fewell for their fire what a mighty gaine groweth by their feathers and oyle the report thereof is so incredible that no man scarcely would beleeve it but he that had seene it Then as the shore draweth backe Seton sheweth it selfe which seemeth to have taken that name of the situation by the sea side and to have imparted the same unto a right noble house of the Setons branched out of an English family and from the daughter of King Robert Brus out of which the Marquesse Huntley Robert Earle of Wentoun Alexander Earle of Dunfirmling advanced to honors by K. James the sixth are propagated After this the river Eske dischargeth it selfe into this Frith when it hath runne by Borthwic which hath Barons surnamed according to that name and those deriving their pedegree out of Hungary by Newbottle that is The new building sometimes a faire monasterie now the Barony of Sir Mark Ker by Dalkeith a very pleasant habitation of the late Earles of Morton and Musselborrow hard under which in the yeere of our Lord 1547. when Sir Edward Seimor Duke of Somerset with an army royall had entred Scotland to claime and challenge the keeping of a covenant made concerning a marriage betweene Marie Queene of Scotland and Edward the sixth King of England there happened the heaviest day that ever fell to the adventurous youth of the most noble families in all Scotland who there lost their lives Here I must not over-passe in silence this Inscription which John Napier a learned man hath in his Commentaries upon the Apocalyps recorded to have beene here digged up and which the right learned Knight Sir Peter Young teacher and trainer of King James the sixth in his youth hath in this wise more truely copied forth APOLLINI GRANNO Q. LUSIUS SABINIA NUS PROC AUG V. S.S.L.V.M Who this Apollo Granus might bee and whence hee should have this name not one to my knowledge of our grave Senate of Antiquaries hitherto could ever tell But if I might be allowed from out of the lowest bench to speak what I think I would say that Apollo Granus amongst the Romans was the same that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Apollo with long haire amongst the Greekes for Isidor calleth the long haire of the Gothes Grannos But here I may seem to wander out of my way and therefore will returne to it Lower yet and neere unto the Scotish Forth is seated EDENBUROUGH which the Irish Scots call Dun Eaden that is the towne Eaden or Eden Hill and which no doubt is the very same that Ptolomee named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Winged Castle for Adain in the British tongue signifieth a wing and Edenborrow a word compounded out of the British and Saxon language is nothing else but The Burgh with wings From Wings therefore wee must fetch the reason of the name and fetched it may be if you thinke good either from the Companies of Horsemen which are called Wings or else from those Wings in Architecture which the great Master builders tearme Pâ—eromaâ—â— that is as Vetruvius sheweth two Wallâ— so rising up in heigth as that they resemble a shew of Wings which for that a certaine City of Cyprus wanted it was called in old time as wee read in the Geographers Aptera that is Without Wings But if any man beleeve that the name was derived from Ebrâ—â—k a Britaine or from Heth a Picâ— good leave have he for me I will not confront them with this my conjecture This Citie in regard of the high situation of the holsome are and plentifull soile and many Noble mens towred houses built round about it watered also with cleere springing fountaines reaching from East to West a mile out in length and carrying halfe as much in bredth is worthily counted the chiefe Citie of the whole Kingdome strongly walled adorned with houses as well publike as private well peopled and frequented by reason of the opportunity from the sea which the neighbour haven at Leth affordeth And as it is the seat of the Kings so is it the oracle also or closet of the Lawes and the very Palace of Justice For the high Courts of Parliament are here for the most part holden for the enacting or repealing of Lawes also the Session and the Court of the Kings Justice and of the Commissariat whereof I have spoken already are here settled and kept On the East side hard unto the Monastery of Saint Crosse or Holy ruide is the Kings palace which King David the first built over which within a Parke stored with game riseth an hill with two heads called of Arthur the Britaine Arthurs Chaire On the West side a most steepe rocke mounteth up aloft to a stately heigth every way save onely where it looketh toward the City on which is placed a Castle with many a towre in it so strong that it is counted impregnable which the Britans called Castle Myned Agneâ— the Scots The Maidens Castle and the Virgins Castle of certaine young maidens of the Picts royall blood who were kept there in old time and which may seeme in truth to have beene that Castrum Alatum or Castle with AVVING abovesaid How Edenborrow in the alternative fortune of warres was subject one while to the Scots and another while to the English who inhabited this East part of Scotland untill
And our Historiographer of Malmesburie When the Tyrants had left none in the countrey but halfe Barbarians none in the cities and townes but such as wholly gave themselves to belly-cheere Britaine destitute of all protection by her vigorous young men bereaved of all exercise and practise of good arts became exposed for a long time to the greedy and gaping jawes of Nations confining upon her For straightwaies by the incursions of Scots and Picts many a man was slaine villages burnt cities undermined and subverted and throughout all laid wast with fire and sword The Islanders in great trouble and perplexitie thinking all other meanes safer than triall by battell partly betooke them to their heeles and for their safetie fled unto the mountaine-Countrey partly after they had buried their treasure within the ground whereof much is digged up in these daies purposed to goe to Rome for to crave aide But as Nicephorus truely wrote Valentinian the Third was not onely unable to recover Britaine Spaine and France provinces plucked away from his Empire already but also lost Africke beside Not without just cause therefore Gildas in this age cried out thus Britaine was dispoiled of all her armed men her militarie forces her Rulers cruell though they were and of a mightie number of her stout and couragious youths For besides those whom that Usurper Maximus and the last Constantine led away with them it appeareth evidently by antike Inscriptions and the booke named Notitia Provinciarum that these companies underwritten served the Romans in war here and there dispersed over their Provinces which also were from time to time evermore supplied out of Britaine Ala Britannica Milliaria Ala IIII Britonum in Aegypto Cohors Prima Aeliae Britonum Cohors III. Britonum Cohors VII Britonum Cohors XXVI Britonum in Armenia Britanniciani sub Magistro peditum Invicti juniores Britanniciani Exculcatores jun. Britan. Britones cum Magistro Equitum Galliarum Invicti Iuniores Britones intra Hispanias Britones Seniores in Illyrico Hereupon no maruaile it is if Britaine exhausted daily with so many and so great levies of souldiers lay exposed unto the Barbarians and heereby proveth that sentence of Tacitus true There is no strength in the Roman armies but it is of forraine strangers In writing of these matters concerning the Romans government in Britaine which continued as I said CCCCLXXVI yeares or much there about whiles I consider and think otherwhiles with my selfe how many Colonies of Romans were in so long a time brought hither how many souldiers continually transported over hither from Rome to lie in garrison how many sent hither to negotiate either their own busines or the affaires of the Empire who joyning in mariage with Britans both planted themselves and also begat children here For Wheresoever the Roman winneth saith Seneca there he woneth and inhabiteth I enter oft times into this cogitation That Britans may more truely ingraffe themselves into the Trojans stocke by these Romans who are descended from Trojans than either the Arverni who drawing their descent from Ilian bloud have named themselves the Romans brethren or the Mamertines Hedui and the rest who grounding upon a fabulous originall have fathered themselves upon the Trojans For Rome that common Mother as he saith called those her Citizens Quos domuit nexuque pio longinqua revinxit Whom she subdued and by a gracious knot United people farre dissite and remote And meet it is we should beleeve that the Britans and Romans in so many ages by a blessed and joyfull mutuall ingraffing as it were have growne into one stocke and nation seeing that the Ubij in Germanie within 28. yeares after that a Colonie was planted where now Colein is made answer as touching the Roman Inhabitants there in this wise This is the naturall Countrey as well to those that being conveied hither in times past are conjoyned with us by mariages as to their off-spring Neither can we thinke you so unreasonable as to wish us for to kill our parents brethren and children If the Ubij and Romans in so small a time became parents brethren and children one to another what should we judge of Britans and Romans linked and conjoyned so many yeares together What also may we say of the Burgundians who for that they mingled their bloud with the Romans whiles they held for a small time the Romans Provinces called themselves a Roman off-spring not to rehearse againe what I have said before That this Island hath beene named Romania and Insulae Romana that is The Roman Isle Thus much have I set downe summarily and in compendious manner gathered out of the ancient monuments of Antiquitie rejecting all fabulous fictions as touching the Romans Regiment in Britaine their Lieutenants Propretours Presidents Vicars and Rectors But more exactly and fully might I have done it if Ausonius had performed his promise and that come unto our hands who said he would reckon up such as Aut Italûm populos Aquilonigenasque Britannos Praefecturarum titulo tenuere secundo That ruled Nations Italike and North-bred Britans all Entituled with happy stile Lieutenants Generall But seeing it is agreed upon among all learned men that there ariseth very much light to the illustration of ancient Histories out of ancient Coines I have thought good in this place to exhibite unto the Reader certaine pieces of money as well of those Britaines who first came under subjection of the Romans as of Roman Emperours such especially as appurtaine to Britaine and those out of the Cabinet of the right Worshipfull Sir Robert Cotton of Conington Knight who hath from all places with curious and chargeable search gotten them together and of his courtesie with heart and good will imparted the same unto me CONIECTVRES AS TOVching the British Coines TO the Britans Coines the portracts whereof I have here shewed you looke haply that I should adjoyne some briefe notes also But what to adjoyne of such things as the revolution of so many ages past hath altogether overcast with darkenesse to professe plainely I see not and your selfe when you shall read these slender guesses of mine will avouch with me that I walke in a mirke and mistie night of ignorance That the old Britans used brasse money or rings or else plates of yron tried to a certaine just weight I have declared already before out of Caesar and there be who averre that they have seen some of these found in little pitchers Besides these found there are otherwhiles in this Island pieces of gold silver and brasse of sundry fashions and as different in poize all for the most part of the one side hollow some without letters others with expresse Inscriptions of letters of which sort I could never here that any have been digged up elsewhere untill such time as Nicolaus Fabricius Pierescius a right noble young Gentleman of Provance in France one for such antiquities old Medals or
South gates Ophiuchus enwrapped with a serpent two mens heads with curled haire within the cope of the wall a hare running and annexed thereto upon a stone in letters standing overthwart VLIA ILIA A naked man laying hand as it were upon a souldier within the battlement also of the wall two lying along kissing and clipping one another a footeman with a sword brandishing and bearing out his shield a footeman with a speare and upon a stone with letters standing overthwart III. VSA. IS VXSC. And Medusaes head with haires all Snakes Along the said river of Avon which now is heere the bound between this shire and Glocestershire upon the banke Westward we have a sight of Cainsham so name of one Keina a most devout and holy British virgine who as the credulous age before-time perswaded many transformed serpents into stones because there be found there in Stone quarries such strange workes of nature when she is disposed to disport herselfe For I have seene a stone brought from hence resembling a serpent winding round in manner of a wreath the head whereof being somewhat unperfect bare up in the Circumference thereof and the end of the taile tooke up the centre within But most of these are headlesse In the fields neere adjoyning and other places beside is found Percepier an hearbe peculiar unto England Bitter it is in taste and hath a biting sharpenesse withall it never groweth above a span high and commeth up all the yeare long of it selfe small leavy flowers of a greenish hew it beares without any stalke at all Which herbe mightily and speedily provoketh urine and of it the distilled water serveth for great use as P. Paena in his Animadversions or Commentaries of Plants hath noted Scarce five miles from this place the river Avon passeth through the midst of Bristow in Welch-British Caer oder Nant Badon that is The Citie Oder in the Vale of Badon In the Catalogue of ancient Cities Caer Brito In Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A bright or shining place But such as have called it Venta Belgarum have deceived both themselves and others This Citie standing partly in Somerset and partly in Glocester-shires is not to be reputed belonging either to this or that having Magistrates of the owne by it selfe and being of it selfe entire and a County incorporate Scituate it is somewhat high betweene Avon and the little river Frome sufficiently defended with rivers and fortifications together For environed it was sometime with a double wall So faire to behold by reason of buildings as well publike as private that it is fully correspondent to the name of Bright stow With common Sewes or Sinks they call them Goutes so made to run under the ground for the conveiance and washing away of all filth that for cleanlinesse and holesomnesse a man would not desire more whereupon there is no use heere of carts so well furnished with all things necessarie for a mans life so populous and well inhabited withall that next after London and Yorke it may of all Cities in England justly challenge the chiefe place For the mutuall entercourse of trafficke and the commodious haven which admitteth in ships under saile into the very bosome of the Citie hath drawne people of many countries thither For the Avon so often as the Moone declineth downeward from the meridian point and passeth by the opposite line unto it so swelleth with the tide from the Ocean that it raiseth up the ships there riding and lying in the oze 11. or 12. elles afloat in water And the Citizens themselves are rich Merchants and trafficke all over Europe yea and make Voyages at sea so farre as into the most remote parts of America But when and by whom it was built it is hard to say Old it seemeth not to be for as much as in all those spoiles and sackages that the Danes made there is no mention of it in our Historians And verily mine opinion is that it first grew up to some name when the English-Saxons Empire was much declining seeing that it is no where named before the yeare of our Lord 1063 when Harold as Florentinus of Worcester writeth embarqued himselfe and his armie and put to sea from Bristow to Wales In the first yeares of the Normans Berton a mannor adjoyning And Bristow paid unto the King as we find in the booke of Domesday 110. markes of silver and the Burgers said that Bishop G. hath 33. markes and one marke of Gold After this Robert Bishop of Constance that plotted seditious practises against King William Rufus chose it for the seate-towne of the whole warre fortified it being then but a small Citie with that inner wall as I take it which at this day is in part standing But a few yeares after the circuit thereof was every way enlarged For on the South Radcliffe wherein there stood some small houses under the Citie side is by a stone bridge with houses on each hand built upon it more like a streete than a bridge joyned to the Citie enclosed within a wall and the Inhabitants thereof enfranchised Citizens yea hospitals in every quarter thereof for the benefit of poore people and faire Parish-Churches to the glorie of God were erected The most beautifull of all which by farre is S. Maries of Radcliffe without the walles into which there is a stately ascent upon many staires so large withall so finely and curiously wrought with an arched roofe over head of stone artificially embowed a steeple also of an exceeding height that all the Parish-Churches in England which hetherto I have seene in my judgement it surpasseth many degrees In it William Cannings the founder hath two faire monuments upon the one lieth his image portraied in an Aldermans roabe For five times he had beene Major of this Citie upon the other his image likewise in sacerdotall habite for that in this old age hee tooke the orders of priesthood and was Deane of that colledge which himselfe instituted at Westburie There is hard by another Church also which they call the Temple the lanterne or tower whereof when the bell rings shaketh to and fro so as it hath cloven and divided it selfe from the rest of the building and made such a chinke from the bottome to the top as it gapeth the bredth of three fingers and both shutteth and openeth whensoever the bell is rung And heere I must not overpasse in silence S. Stephens Church the tower steeple whereof being of a mightie heighth one Shipward alias Barstable a Citizen and Merchant within the memorie of our grandfathers right sumptuously and artificially built From the East-side also the North augmented it was with a number of edifices enclosed within a wall and fenced with the river Frome which having runne by the wall side gently falleth into the Avon and yieldeth a dainty harbour for ships with a wharfe convenient for the shipping and unlading of Merchandise in and out they call it the Kay
sheweth But in these matters let Ninnius cleere his owne credit for stuffed hee hath that little booke with many a pretty lie Yet this I may be bold to affirme that it flourished in great honour about that time and I my selfe have lighted here upon very many peeces of the coine of Constantine the younger sonne to Constantine the Great which in their reverse have the portraict of an house with this Inscription PROVIDENTIA CAES. Now that this Constantius whom he maketh the builder of this Citie died at Mopsuestia in Cilicia and was interred in Constantinople in the Sepulchre of his Ancestors it is knowne for certaine and confessed Yet I will not denie but that hee might have in this citie a monument erected in honour and remembrance of him For many there were that had such monuments built about which the souldiers were wont yearely to just and keepe solemne turneaments in honour of the dead When the declining Roman Empire hastened to an end and barbarous nations began every where to waste and spoile the Provinces their Armies heere in Britaine fearing least the flame of this fire wherewith their next neighbours in France were consumed would catch hold of them set up and created Emperours to themselves first Marcus then Gratian whom they soone slew and last of all in the yeare after Christs birth 407 our Constantine for his names sake they forced wild he nild he to usurpe the Empire and to put on the Imperiall Purple robe in the citie Caer Segont as both Ninnius and Gervase of Canterburie do witnesse This Constantine putting to sea out of Britaine landed at Bologne in France and drew all the Roman armies even as farre as the Alpes to side and joyne with him in his warres Hee stoutly defended Valentia in France against the power of Honorius the Emperour the River Rhene which long before had beene neglected hee fortified with a garrison Upon the Alpes where any passage was hee built fortresses In Spaine under the conduct of his sonne Constans whom of a Monke he had declared Emperour he warred fortunately and afterwards having sent his letters unto Honorius and craved pardon for suffering the souldiers to put upon him the purple perforce whether hee would or no he accepted at his hands the Imperiall investure which hee freely gave him Whereupon being puffed up with pride after hee had passed the Alpes his mind was wholly set upon a journey to Rome But hearing that Alaricus the Gothe who had favoured his part was dead hee returned to Arles where hee setled his Imperiall seat caused the Citie to bee called Constantina and commanded the courts and assemblies of seven Provinces there to bee holden In the meane time Gerontius excited the souldiers against their Lord and when he had treacherously slaine his sonne Constans at Vienna in France besieged Constantine also himselfe within Arles But after that one Constantius sent by Honorius with a great armie made head against him Gerontius killed himselfe And Constantine being now streitly besieged and by reason of the unhappie successe of his men past all hope laid aside the Purple and his great estate entred into the Church became a Priest and straight-waies when Arles was yeilded up and hee carried into Italie was himselfe together with his sonne Julian unto whom he had given the title of Nobilissimus and his brother Sebastian beheaded Thus much briefly of these occurrents which before are discoursed more at large out of Zosimus Zosomenus Nicephorus Orosius and Olympiodorus to the end that Veritie may triumph over their vanitie who have besprinkled this story with most ridiculous and foolish lies of their owne devising Moreover in this citie our Historiographers write that our warlike Arthur was invested and crowned King But not long after it was razed quite either in the Saxons warres or when Adelwolph being offended with his brother King Edward upon a malicious mind together with the helpe of the Danish Rovers wasted this countrey even to Basing-stoke And now remaineth nothing save the wals which although they want their battlements Curtaine and coppe yet they seeme to have beene of a very great height For the earth is so growne up with the rubble that I could scarce with stouping low passe through an old posterne which they call Onions Hole These walles in some sort continue whole but that they be broken through in those places where the gates were and out of the very walles I saw grow oakes of that bignesse and those seeming as it were bredde with the very stones with such huge roots clasping one another a great way and spreading forth so mightie armes and boughes all abroad that it would make the beholders to wonder thereat These walles take in compasse about two Italian miles Whereupon haply the Saxons called this citie Selcester as one would say The great Citie for Sel may seeme to sound with them as much as Great seeing Asserius hath interpreted the Saxon word Selwood The Great wood And before the walles Westward where is a plaine there lieth a banke of a great length raised and cast up for a defence and fortification The scite of this old citie containeth about fourescore acres of ground within which being a soile ploughed up an tilled are divided into corne-fields with a little grove in the West-side but on the East neere unto the gappe in the wall there standeth a Farme-house and a pretty Church more lately built in which while I searched for ancient inscriptions I found nothing but onely in the windowes certaine armes to wit In a field sable seven Fusils argent in Bend likewise in a shield sables a Fesse between two Cheverns and in an Escutcheon Or an Eagle displaied with two heads gules This last I have heard say was the coat of the Blewets unto whom this land came about the Conquerours time The second belonged unto the ancient house of the Bainards of Leckham but the first to the Cusanz by whom from the Blewets it descended hereditarily to the said Bainards But in the raigne of William the Conquerour it was the possession of William de Ow a Norman who being accused of high treason and desirous to prove his innocencie by combat was overcome in fight and by commandement of King William Rufus had his two eies pluckt out of his head and lost both his genetals This is found by continuall observation as I have learned of the Inhabitants of this place that although the ground bee fertile and fruitfull enough yet in certaine places crossing one another the corne doth not thrive so well but commeth up much thinner then else where by which they suppose the streets of the citie went in old time There are heere daily digged up bricks such as wee call Britaine-bricks and great store of Roman coine which they terme Onions pennies For they dreame that this Onion was a Giant and dwelt in this citie There are digged up also many times inscriptions of
and worth the noting it is there is a vaine of potters earth highly commended and therefore the dearer sold for the making of those crucibles and small vessels which Gold-smiths use in melting their gold Nor farre from hence the cleare rivelet Wandle in Latin Vandalis so full of the best Trouts issueth forth from his head neare Cashalton and Wodcot where by a tuft of trees upon an hill-top there are to bee seene manifest signes of a pretty towne and diverse wels built of flint stones Concerning the populousnesse and wealth whereof the neighbour Inhabitants report very much This in my conceit was that Citie which Ptolomee called NOIOMAGVS and the Emperour Antonine NOVIOMAGVS Neither neede wee to seeke from else where proofe heereof but from the correspondencie of distance For as the old Itinerary noteth it is ten miles from London and twenty eight from Vagmiacj now Maidston Many a mile therefore went they out of the way that placed Noviomagus either at Buckingham or at Guildford This was a principall Citie of the REGNI not knowne to Marinus Tyrius a most ancient Geographer whom Ptolomee taking upon him to censure taxeth for that he had set NOVIOMAGVS of Britaine by Climate more North and by account of miles more South than London Wandle while it is yet small receiveth his first increase by a rill springing at Croidon in times past called Cradiden which standeth under the hils is very well known as well for the house of the Archbishops of Canterbury unto whom it hath belonged now this long time as for Char-coles which the townesmen make good chaffer of The inhabitants report that in old time there stood an house of the Kings in the West part of the towne neere unto Haling where the husbandmen dig up otherwhiles rubble stone which house the Archbishops having received it by gift from the King translated unto their owne neerer the river And neere unto this the right reverend father in God D. Iohn Whitgift Archbishop of Canterbury of most praise worthy Memory in his pious affection founded and endowed with living a very faire Hospitall for the reliefe of poore people and a schoole for the furtherance of learning As for that sudden swelling water or Bourne which the common people report to breake forth heere out of the ground presaging I wote not how either dearth of corne or the pestilence may seeme not worthy once the naming and yet the events sometime ensuing hath procured it credit Neere unto this place stands Beddington wherein is to be seene a very faire house beautified with a delightfull shew of right pleasant gardens and orchards by Sir Francis Carew Knight For the ancient seat it is of the Carews who being descended from the Carews of Moulesford of whom also are come the Carews of Devonshire have for a long time flourished in this country but especially since Sir Iames Carew matched in marriage with the daughter and one of the coheires of the Baron Hoo and Hastings To digresse a little from the river Eastward from Croidon standeth Addington now the habitation of Sir Oliff Leigh wherby is to be seene the ruble of a Castle of Sir Robert Agvilon and from him of the Lords Bardolph who held certaine lands here in fee by Serianty to find in the Kings kitchin at the Coronation one to make a dainty dish which they called Mapigernoun and Dilgerunt What that was I leave to the skilfull in ancient Cookerie and returne to the river Wandle increased with Croidon water passing by Morden divideth it selfe to water Merton in the old English tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 situate in a most fruitfull soile A towne made famous in times past by the death of Kinulph King of the West Saxons who was by a Clito that is a Prince of the bloud slaine here in a small cottage of an harlot upon whom hee was enamoured and Clito himself by K. Kinulphs followers immediately stabbed suffered condigne punishment for his disloyall treachery Now it sheweth onely the ruines of a Monastery that K. Henry the First founded for blacke Chanons by the procurement of Gilbert High Sheriffe of Surry in the yeare 1127. which was famous for the Statute of Merton enacted here in the 21. of King Henrie the Third and also for Water de Merton founder of Merton Colledge in Oxford borne and bred heere Above Merton farther from the river is seated Wibandune now commonly Wimbledon where when over much prosperitie had hatched civill broiles among the English Saxons after the British warres were now ceased Ethelbert King of Kent struck up the first Alarme of civill warre against his owne country men but Ceaulin King of the West Saxons discomfited him in this place with a mightie great slaughter and losse of his men having slaine his principall leaders Oslan and Kneben of whom peradventure that entrenched rampier or fort which wee have heere seene of a round forme is called Bensbury for But now the greatest ornament of this place is that goodly house so beautifull for building and so delectable for faire prospect and right pleasant gardens which Sir Thomas Cecill Knight sonne to that most prudent Counsellour of State Lord Burleygh built in the yeare 1588. when the Spanish Armado made saile upon the coast of England Wandle now after a few miles entreth the Tamis when it hath given name to Wandlesworth betweene Putney the native soile of Thomas Cromwell one of the flowting-stocks of fortune and Batersey sometimes in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in latine Patricii Insula that is Patrickes Isle and which now we seeke an house of the Kings termed Kennington whereunto the Kings of England in old time were wont to retire themselves but now finde wee neither the name nor the rammell thereof Then is there Lambith or Lomehith that is to say a Lomy or clayish rode or hith famous in former times for the death of Canutus the Hardie King of England who there amid his cups yielded up his vitall breath For hee beeing given wholly to banqueting and feasting caused royall dinners foure times every day as Henry of Huntingdon reporteth to be served up for all his court choosing rather to have his invited guests to send away whole dishes untouched than other commers unbidden to call for more viands to be upon his table But now this place is of the greater name and more frequented by reason of the Archbishop of Canterburie his palace For Baldwine Archbishop of Canterbury about the yeare of Christ 1183. having made an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester purchased a manour in this place wherein hee began to build a palace for himselfe and his successours which they by little and little encreased But when they went about to erect a collegiat Church heere also good GOD what posting was there to Rome with complaints and appeales from the Monkes of Canterburie how many fiery thunderbolts
these very same of which we now speake And verily no where else are they found but in a chalkie and marly soile Vnlesse a man would thinke that our English-Saxons digged such caves and holes to the same use and purpose as the Germans did of whom they were descended For they were wont as Tacitus writeth to make holes and caves under the ground and those to charge aloft with great heapes of dung as harbours of refuge for Winter and garners of receit for corne because by such like places they mitigate the rigour of cold wether and if at any time the enemie commeth hee wasteth onely the open ground but as for those things that lie hidden and buried under the earth they are either unknowne or in this respect doe disappoint the enemies for that they are to be sought for From above Feversham the shoare runneth on plentifull of shel-fish but especially oisters whereof there are many pits or stewes as far as Reculver and farther This Reculver is a place of ancient memorie named in the old English-Saxon Reaculf but in elder time REGVLBIVM For so it is named in the Roman Office booke Notitia Provinciarum which reporteth that the captaine of the primer band of the Vetasians lay heere in garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon-shoare for so was the sea coast a-long this tract called who had the command then of nine Ports as the L. Warden now hath of five Ports And verily the Roman Emperours coines digged up there give testimony to this antiquitie of the place In it Aethelbert King of Kent when he had made a grant of Canterbury to Augustine the Monk built himselfe a Palace and Bassa an English-Saxon beatified it with a Monasterie out of which Brightwald the Eighth Archbishop of Canterbury was elected Of this Monastery or Minster it was named Raculf-Minster what time as Edred brother to King Edward the Elder gave it to Christ-church in Canterbury Howbeit at this day it is nothing else but an uplandish country towne and if it bee of any name it hath it for the salt savory Oisters there dredged and for that Minster the steeples whereof shooting up their loftie spires stand the Mariners in good stead as markes whereby they avoide certaine sands and shelves in the mouth of the Thames For as he versifieth in his Philippeis Cernit oloriferum Thamisin sua Doridi amarae Flumina miscentem It now beholds swann-breeding Thames where he doth mix his streame With brackish sea Now are we come to the Isle Tanet which the river Stour by Bede named Wantsum severeth from the firme land by a small channell running betweene which river made of two divers rivelets in the wood-land called the Weald so soone as it goeth in one entire streame visiteth Ashford and Wye two prety Mercate townes well knowne Either of them had sometimes their severall Colledges of Priests the one built by Iohn Kemp Archbishop of Canterbury who was there borne the other to wit of Ashford by Sir R. Fogge Knight Wye also had a speciall fountaine into which God infused a wonderfull gift and vertue at the instant prayer of Eustace a Norman Abbat if we may beleeve Roger of Hoveden whom I would advise you to have recourse unto if you take delight in such like miracles As how the blind by drinking thereof recovered sight the dumbe their speech the deafe their hearing the lame their limbes And how a woman possessed of the devill sipping thereof vomited two toades which immediately were first transformed into huge blacke dogs and againe into asses and much more no lesse strange than ridiculous which some in that age as easily believed as others falsely forged Thence the Stour leaving East-well the inhabitation of the family of the Finches worshipfull of it selfe and by descent from Philip Belknap and Peoplesham goeth on to Chilham or as other call it Iulham where are the ruines of an old Castle which one Fulbert of Dover is reported to have built whose issue male soone failed and ended in a daughter inheritrice whom Richard the base sonne of King Iohn tooke to wife and had with her this Castle and the lands thereto belonging Of her hee begat two daughters namely Lora the wife of VVilliam Marmion and Isabell wife first to David of Strathbolgy Earle of Athole in Scotland afterward to Sir Alexander Baliol who was called to Parliament by the name of Lord of Chilham mother to that Iohn Earle of Athole who being condemned oftentimes for treason was hanged at the last upon a gibbet fifty foot high as the King commanded because he might be so much the more conspicuous in mens eies as he was of higher and nobler birth and being cut downe halfe alive had his head smitten off and the truncke of his body throwen into the fire a very cruell kinde of punishment and seldome seene among us And after his goods were confiscate King Edward the first bounteously bestowed this castle together with Felebergh Hundred upon Sir Bartholomew Badilsmer who likewise quickly lost the same for his treason as I have before related There is a constant report among the inhabitants that Iulius Caesar in his second voiage against the Britans encamped at this Chilham and that thereof it was called Iulham that is Iulius his Mansion and if I be not deceived they have the truth on their side For heere about it was when at his second remove he in his march staied upon the intelligence that his ships were sore weather-beaten and thereupon returned and left his army encamped tenne daies while he rigged and repaired the decaies of his Navy And in his march from hence was encountered sharply by the Britans and lost with many other Laberius Durus a Marshall of the field A little beneath this towne there is a prety hillocke to be seene apparelled in a fresh suit of greene sord where men say many yeeres agoe one Iullaber was enterred whom some dreame to have beene a Giant others a Witch But I conceiving an opinion that some antiquity lieth hidden under that name doe almost perswade my selfe that the foresaid Laberius was heere buried and so that the said hillocke became named Iul-laber Five miles from hence the river Stoure dividing his Channell runneth swiftly by DVROVERNVM the chiefe Cittie of this Countie and giveth it his name For Durwhern in the British tongue signifieth a swift river Ptolome calleth it in steed of Durovernum DARVERNVM Bede and others DOROBERNIA the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kentishmens citie Ninnius and the Britans Caer Kent that is the Citie of Cent wee Canterbury and the later writers in Latine Cantuaria A right antient citie this is and famous no doubt in the Romans time not over great as William of Malmesbury said 400. yeares since nor verie small much renowned both for the situation and exceeding fertility of the soile adjoining as also for
the neighbour Inhabitants in small or no stead untill being brought of late unto his ancient Chanell it is become more commodious for the carriages of all commodities c. Lea is not gone forward farre from Ware when he entertaineth a Riveret named Stort from the East which first runneth downe out of Essex by Bishops Stortford a small Towne fensed sometime with a little Castle set upon a mount cast up of purpose within a prety Island which Castle King William the Conquerour gave unto the Bishops of London and of those Bishops it came to be so called but King John for hatred to Bishop William overthrew it From thence it maketh his way by Sabridgworth a parcell of the Honor of Earle William Mandevile and sometime the possession of Geffrey Say neere Shingle-hall honested by the Owners the Leventhorpes of ancient Gentry So on not farre from Honsdon forfeited by Sir William Oldhall to the Crowne in the time of King Henry the Sixth which gave a Title of Baron Hunsdon to Sir Henry Cary through the favour of Queene Elizabeth unto whom he was Lord Chamberlaine as who verily besides his descent from the royall Family of the Dukes of Somerset was by his mother Mary Bolen cozen german to the said Queene Lea having thus admitted into him this Riveret hasteneth now with a merry glee to the Tamis under Hodesdon a faire through Faire to which H. Bourchier Earle of Essex having a faire house at Base thereby while it stood procured a Mercat and then as it were in gratulatory wise saluteth Theobalds commonly called Tibaulds which our Nestor of Britaine the right honourable Baron Burghley late Lord high Treasurer of England built an house if we respect the workmanship none more faire and elegant if the gardens Orchards and walkes bedight with Groves none more pleasant unto whom especially this River willingly acknowledgeth it selfe beholden for the recovery againe of his ancient Chanell But returne we now to places more within the Country and of greater antiquity From Hertford twelve miles Westward stood VEROLAMIUM a City in times past very much renowned and as greatly frequented Tacitus calleth it VERULAMIUM Ptolomee UROLANIUM and VEROLAMIUM well knowne this is in these dayes neere unto Saint Albans in Caisho Hundred which the CASSII of whom Caesar maketh mention in all probability held and inhabited The Saxons named it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the famous High-way Watlingstreet and also 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Neither hath it as yet lost that ancient name for commonly they call it Verulam although there remaineth nothing of it to bee seene beside the few remaines of ruined walles the checkered pavements and peeces of Roman Coine other whiles digged up there It was situate upon the gentle descent or side of an hill Eastward fenced about with passing strong wals a double Rampire and deepe Trenches toward the South and Eastward watered with a Brooke which in old time made a great Meere or standing Poole Whereby it was guessed that this was the very same towne of Cassibelaunus fortified with woods and marishes which Caesar wan For there was not to be seene any other Poole or Meere in this Tract to my knowledge In Nero his time it was counted a MUNICIPIUM whence it is that in Ninius his Catalogue of Cities it is named Caer-Municip So that probable it is that this was the very same CAER MUNICIPIUM which Hubert Golizius found in an old Inscription These Municipia were Townes endowed with the right of Romane Citizens and this name came A Muneribus capiendis that is of publique Offices and charges in the Common-wealth and they had for their States and Degrees * Decurions that is Gentlemen and Commons for their publique Councell a Senate and People For their Magistrates and Priests Duum-virj Trium-virj to sit in judgement and minister justice CENSORS AEDILES Quaestors and Flamins But whether this Municipium or towne enfranchised were with suffrages or without a man cannot easily affirme A Municip with suffrages they tearmed that which was capable of honourable Offices like as that other they called without suffrage which was not capable In the Raigne of the same Nero when Bunduica or Boadicia Queene of the Icenes in her deepe love of her Country and conceived bitter hatred against the Romanes raised bloudy and mortall Warre upon them it was rased and destroied by the Britans as Tacitus recordeth Hence it is that Suetonius wrote thus To these mischiefes so great proceeding from the Prince there happened to mend the matter a grievous losse in Britaine wherein two principall Towres of great importance with much slaughter of Romane Citizens and Allies were put to the sacke and spoiled Neverthelesse it flourished againe and became exceeding famous and passing well frequented yea and I have seene old Antiquities of money stamped as it seemeth heere with this inscription TASCIA and on the reverse VER Which that learned searcher of venerable antiquity David Powell Doctour in Divinity interpreteth to be The Tribute of Verulamium For Tasc as he teacheth me in the British or Welsh tongue soundeth as much as Tribute Tascia A Tribute Penny and Tascyd the chiefe Collector of Tribute But loe heere is the very peece of money portraied for you to see which heeretofore also I have exhibited Some would have this money to bee coined before the comming in of the Romans but I beleeve them not For I have alwaies thought them to bee Tribute money which being imposed upon the poll and the lands were yeerely exacted and gathered by the Romans as I have said before For before that the Romans came I can scarce beleeve the Britans coined or stamped any money Yet I remember what Caesar writeth of them And they use saith he brasse money or rings of iron weighed to a certaine poise Where the ancient bookes have Lanceis Ferreis for which the Criticks put in Laminis Ferreis that is plates of iron But let my pen returne againe to the matter proposed for my meaning is not heere to weave the same web still As for Verulam it was famous for nothing so much as for bringing foorth Alban a Citizen of singular holinesse and faith in Christ who when Dioclesian went about by exquisite torments to wipe Christian Religion quite out of the memory of men was the first in Britaine that with invincible constancy and resolution suffred death for Christ his sake Whereupon hee is called our Stephen and the Protomartyr of Britaine yea and Fortunatus Presbyter the Poet wrote thus of him Albanum egregium foecunda Britannia profert Fruitfull Britaine bringeth foorth Alban a Martyr of mickle worth And Hiericus a Frenchman who flourished 700. yeeres agoe of the same Alban and his executioner miraculously stricken blinde made these verses Millia poenarum Christi pro nomine passus Quem tandem rapuit capitis sententia caesi Sed non lictori cessit res tuta superbo Utque caput Sancto
agoe an old towne and Cornelius Tacitus in like manner who in Nero his daies 1540. yeares since reported it to have been a place very famous for fresh Trade concourse of Merchants and great store of victuals and all things necessary This onely at that time was wanting to the glory thereof that it had the name neither of Free City nor of Colony Neither verily could it have stood with the Romans profit if a City flourishing with merchandize should have enjoyed the right of a Colony or Free City And therefore it was as I suppose that they ordained it to bee a Praefecture for so they termed townes where Marts were kept and Justice ministred yet so as that they had no Magistrates of their owne but rulers were sent every year to governe in them and for to minister Law which in publique matters namely of tax tributes tolles customes warfare c. they should have from the Senate of Rome Hence it commeth that Tacitus the Panegyrist and Marcellinus call it onely a towne And although it was not in name loftier yet in welth riches and prosperity it flourished as much as any other yea and continued in manner alwaies the same under the dominion of Romans English-Saxons and Normans seldome or never afflicted with any great calamities In the Raigne of Nero when the Britans had conspired to recover and resume their liberty under the leading of Boadicia the Londoners could not with all their weeping and teares hold Suetonius Paulinus but that after hee had levied a power of the Citizens to aide him hee would needs dislodge and remove from thence leaving the City naked to the enemy who foorthwith surprised and slew some few whom either weaknesse of sex feeblenesse of age or sweetnesse of the place had deteined there Neither had it susteined lesse losse and misery at the hands of the French if it had not soddenly and beyond all expectation by Gods providence beene releeved For when C. Alectus had by a deceitfull wile made away C. Carausius a Clive-lander who taking vantage of our rough seas of Dioclesians dangerous warres in the East and withall presuming of the French and most venterous Mariners and servitors at sea had withheld to himselfe the revenewes of Britain and Holland and borne for the space of six yeares the title of Emperour Augustus as his coines very often found heere doe shew when M. Aurelius Asclepiodotus likewise had in a battaile slain Alectus in the third year now of his usurpation of the imperiall purple and state those French who remained alive after the fight hasting to London forthwith would have sacked the City had not the Tamis which never failed to helpe the Londoners very fitly brought in the Roman souldiers who by reason of a fogge at Sea were severed from the Navie For they put the Barbarians to the sword all the City over and thereby gave the Citizens not onely safety by the slaughter of their enemies but also pleasure in the beholding of such a sight And then it was as our Chronicles record that Lucius Gallus was slaine by a little Brookes side which ran through the middle almost of the City and of him was in British called Nant-Gall in English Walbrooke which name remaineth still in a Street under which there is a sewer within the ground to ridde away filth not farre from London-stone which I take to have beene a Milliary or Milemarke such as was in the Mercate place of Rome From which was taken the dimension of all journies every way considering it is in the very mids of the City as it lyeth in length Neither am I perswaded that London was as yet walled Howbeit within a little while after our Histories report that Constantine the Great at the request of his mother Helena did first fense it about with a Wall made of rough stone and British brickes which tooke up in compasse three miles or thereabout so as it enclosed the modell of the City almost foure square but not equall on every side considering that from West to East it is farre longer than from South to North. That part of this Wall which stood along the Tamis side is by the continuall flowing and washing of the River fallen downe and gone Yet there appeared certaine remaines thereof in King Henry the Seconds time as Fitz-Stephen who then lived hath written The rest now standing is stronger toward the North as which not many yeares since was reedified by the meanes of Jotceline Lord Major of London became of a sodaine new as it were and fresh againe But toward East and West although the Barons in old time during their warres repaired and renewed it with the Jewes houses then demolished yet is it all throughout in decay For Londoners like to those old Lacedemonians laugh at strong walled Cities as cotte houses for Women thinking their owne City sufficiently fensed when it is fortified with men and not with stones This Wall giveth entrance at seven principall Gates for wittingly I omit the smaller which as they have beene newly repaired so they have had also new names given unto them On the West side there be two to wit Lud-gate of king Lud or Flud-gate as Leland is of opinion of a little floud running beneath it like as the Gate Fluentana in Rome built againe of late from the very foundation and Newgate the fairest of them all so called of the newnesse thereof where as before it was termed Chamberlangate which also is the publique Goall or Prison On the North side are foure Aldersgate of the antiquity or as others would have it of Aldrich a Saxon Creple-gate of a Spitle of lame Creples sometime adjoyning thereunto More-gate of a moory ground hard by now turned into a field and pleasant Walkes which Gate was first built by Falconer Lord Major in the yeare of our Lord 1414. and Bishopsgate of a Bishop which Gate the Dutch Merchants of the Stilyard were bound by Covenant both to repaire and also to defend at all times of danger and extremity On the East side there is Aldgate alone so named of the oldnesse or Elbegate as others terme it which at this present is by the Cities charge reedified It is thought also that there stood by the Tamis beside that on the Bridge two Gates more namely Belings-gate a Wharfe now or a key for the receit of Ships and Douregate that is The Water-gate commonly called Dowgate Where the Wall endeth also toward the River there were two very strong Forts or Bastilions of which the one Eastward remaineth yet usually called The Towre of London in the British tongue Bringwin or Tourgwin of the whitenesse A most famous and goodly Citadell encompassed round with thicke and strong Walles full of lofty and stately Turrets fenced with a broad and deepe ditch furnished also with an Armory or Magazine of warlike Munition and other buildings besides so as it resembleth a big towne
the clouds disparcled and golden dayes in deed shone upon it Since when it never sustained any great calamity to speake of but through the speciall favour and indulgence of Princes obtained very large and great Immunities beganne to bee called The Kings Chamber and so flourished a new with fresh trade and traffique of Merchants that William of Malmesbury who lived well neere about that time termed it A noble and wealthy City replenished with rich Citizens and frequented with the commerce of Occupiers and Factours comming out of all lands And Fitz-Stephen living also in those dayes hath left in writing that London at that time counted an hundred and twenty two Parish Churches and thirteene Covents of religious Orders also that when a Muster and shew was made of able men to beare Armes they brought into the Field under their Collours forty thousand footemen and twenty thousand horsemen Then was it enlarged with new buildings and the spacious Suburbs stretched forth from the gates a great length on every side but Westward especially which are the greatest and best peopled In which are twelve Innes ordained for Students of our Common law whereof foure being very faire and large belong to the judiciall Courts the rest to the Chauncery besides two Innes moreover for the Serjeants at Law Herein such a number of young Gentlemen doe so painefully ply their bookes and study the Law that for frequency of Students it is not inferiour either to Angiers Cane or Orleance it selfe as Sir Iohn Fortescue in his small Treatise of the Lawes of England doth witnesse The said foure principall houses are The Inner Temple the Middle Temple Graies Inne and Lincolns Inne Those two former named stand in the very place where in times past during the Raigne of King Henry the Second Heraclius Patriarch of Jerusalem consecrated a Church for Knights Templars which they had newly built according to the forme of the Temple neere unto the Sepulchre of our Lord at Hierusalem For at their first institution about the yeare of our Lord 1113. they dwelt in part of the Temple hard by the Sepulchre whereof they were so named and vowed to defend Christian Religion the Holy Land and Pilgrimes going to visite the Lords Sepulchre against all Mahometans and Infidels professing to live in chastity and obedience whereupon all men most willingly and with right loving hearts embraced them so that through the bounteous liberality of Princes and devout people having gotten in all places very faire Possessions and exceeding great wealth they flourished in high reputation for Piety and Devotion yea and in the opinion both of the holinesse of the men and of the place King Henry the Third and many Noble men desired much to bee buryed in their Church among them Some of whose Images are there to bee seene with their legges acrosse For so they were buryed in that Age that had Taken upon them the Crosse as they then termed it to serve in the Holy Land or had vowed the same Among whom was William Marshall the elder a most powerfull man in his time William and Gilbert his sonnes Marshalles of England and Earles of Penbroch Upon William the elder his Tombe I some yeares since read in the upper part Comes Penbrochiae and upon side this Verse Miles eram Martis Mars multos vicerat armis Of Mars I was a doughty Knight Mars vanquished many a man in fight But in processe of time when with insatiable greedinesse they had hoorded great wealth by withdrawing tith's from churches appropriating spiritual livings to themselves and other hard meanes their riches turned to their ruine For thereby their former piety was after a manner stifled they fell at jarre with other religious orders their professed obedience to the Patriarch of Ierusalem was rejected envy among the common sort was procured which hope of gain among the better sort so enkindled that in the yeere of our salvation 1312. this order was condemned of impiety and by the Popes authority utterly abolished Howbeit their possessions were by authority of the Parliament assigned to the Hospitalier Knights of S. Iohn of Ierusalem least that such Lands given to pious and good uses against the Donours will should bee alienated to other uses And yet it is apparent out of ancient writings that this place after the expulsion of the Templers was the seat and habitation of Thomas Earle of Lancaster and of Sir Hugh Spenser King Edward the Second his minion afterwards of Sir Aimer de Valence Earle of Pembroch and in the end turned into two Colledges or Innes of Lawyers Of the rest of these Innes I have found nothing at all by reading But the generall voyce goeth that the one was the dwelling house of the Lord Greies of Wilton and the other of the Earles of Lincolne Nere unto this K. Henry the third erected betweene the New and the Old Temple an house of Converts for the maintenance of those that were converted from Iudaisme to the Christian Truth which King Edward the Third appointed afterwards for rolls and records to be kept therein and thereof at this day it is called The Rowls These Suburbs with houses standing close together and stately habitations of the Nobles and great Men of the Land along the Tamis side reach out as farre as to Westminster Among which these are the most memorable here Bride-well where King Henry the Eighth built a royall house for the entertainment of Charles the Fifth Emperour but now it is an House of Correction Buckhurst house or Salisbury Court belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury the White Freers or Carmelite Freers The Temples whereof I speake Then without the Bars Essex house built by the Lord Paget Arondel house before called Hampton place and Somerset house built by Edward Semer Duke of Somerset The Savoy so named of Peter Earle of Savoy who there dwelt which Queene Aeleonor wife to King Henry the Third purchased of the fraternity of Mont-joy and gave it to her Sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Whose Posterity dwelt in it a long time untill that King Henry the Seaventh dedicated it as an Hospitall for the Poore Worcester-house late Bedford-house Salisbury-house Durham-house built by Antony Becke Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem and thereby the onely ornament of this part the Britain-Burse built by the Earle of Salisbury and so named by King Iames Yorke-house in times past Bath-house and Northampton-house now begunne by Henry Earle of Northampton But what meane I to name these places 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 None claime them wholy for their owne Fortune disposeth them every one By this Suburbs Westminster which sometime was more than a mile distant is conjoyned so close unto the Citty of London that it seemeth a member thereof whereas it is a Citty of it selfe having their peculiar Magistrates and Priviledges It was called in times past Thorney of Thornes but now Westminster of the West situation
fourth to whose Treatise of Tenures the students of our Common Law are no lesse beholden than the Civilians to Iustinians Institutes But to returne This Salwarp which we speake of runneth downe by Bromesgrove a mercate towne not of the meanest reckoning and not far from Grafton the seat of a yonger family of the Talbots since King Henry the Seventh gave it to Sir Gilbert Talbot a yonger sonne of John the second Earle of Shrewsbury whom also for his martiall valour and singular wisdome he admitted into the society of the Order of the Garter and made Governor of Callis Then runneth Salwarp downe to Droitwich Durt-wich some terme it of the Salt pits and the wettish ground on which it standeth like as Hyetus in Bâ—etia tooke name of the durty situation where three fountaines yeelding plenty of water to make Salt of divided a sunder by a little brooke of fresh water passing betweene by a peculiar giâ—t of nature spring out out of which most pure white Salt is boiled for sixe moneths every yeere to wit from Midsommer to Midwinter in many set fornaces round about Wherewith what a mighty deale of wood is consumed Fekenham Forest where trees grew sometime thicker and the woods round about if men hold their peace will by their thinnesse make manifest more and more But if I should write that the learned Canonist Richard de la Wich Bishop of Chichester here borne obtained with his fervent prayers these Salt springs out of the bowels of the earth I feare me least some might thinke me both over injurious to the providence of God and also too credulous of old wives traditions Yet were our ancestours in their pious devotion so hasty of beleefe that they did not onely give credit hereto yea and recorde it in their writings but in consideration heereof yeelded unto that Prelate in some sort divine honour when Pope Urban the Fourth had for his sanctity and sincere integrity of life canonized him a Saint But before that ever this Richard was borne Gervase of Tilbury wrote thus of these Salt springs though not altogether truely In the Bishopricke of Worcester there is a country towne not farre from the City named Wich in which at the foote of a certaine little hill there runneth a most fresh water in the banke whereof are seene a few pits or wels of a reasonable depth and their water is most salt When this water is boyled in Caudrons it becommeth thicke and turneth into passing white Salt and all the Province fetcheth and carrieth it for that betweene Christmas and the feast of S. Iohn Baptists Nativitie good the water floweth most Salt The rest of the yeere it runneth somewhat fresh and nothing good to make Salt and that which I take to be more wonderfull when this salt water is run sufficiently for the use of the Country scarcely overfloweth it to any waste Also when the time is once come of the saltnesse the same is nothing at all allaid for all the vicinity of the fresh river water neither is it found in any place neere unto the Sea Moreover in the very Kings booke which we call Domesday we read thus In Wich the King and Earle have eight salt pits which in the whole weeke wherein they boiled and wrought yeelded on the Friday sixteene Bullions Salwarp having now entertained a small brooke descending from Chedesley where anciently the family of Foliot flourished as afterward at Longdon maketh hast to Severne which hath not passed foure miles farther before he runs hard by WORCESTER the principall City of this Shire where he seemeth to passe with a flower streame as it were admiring and wondering thereat all the while he passeth by and worthy it is I assure you of admiration whether you respect either the antiquity or the beauty thereof Certes for antiquity the Emperour Antonine hath made mention of it under the name of BRANONIUM and Ptolomee in whom through the negligence of the transcribers it is misplaced under the name of BRANOGENIUM after which name the Britans call it yet Care Wrangon In the Catalogue of Ninnius it is named Caer Guorangon and Caer Guorcon the old English-Saxons afterward called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I dare not say of Wire that woody Forest which in old time stretched farre Since the Conquest the Latine writers named it Vigornia and Wigornia Which name Ioseph the Monke of Excester a right elegant Poet in those daies was one of the first that used if my memory faile me not I meane him that is published under the name of Cornelius Nepos in these his elegant verses unto Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury In numerum jam crescit honor te tertia poscit Insula jam meminit Wigornia Cantia discit Romanus meditatur apex naufraga Petri Ductorem in mediis expectat cymba procellis A mitre third now waits for thee for still thine honour growes Thee Wigorne still remembereth now Canterbury knowes The See of Rome doth thinke of thee and Peters ship in feare Of wracke amid the boistrous stormes expects thee for to steare Probable it is that the Romanes built it what time as they planted cities at certaine spaces and distances along the East banke of Severne to keepe in the Britans beyond Severne like as they did in Germany on the South banke of Rhene to represse the incursions of the Germans It standeth in a place rising somewhat with a gentle ascent by the rivers side that hath a faire bridge with a tower over it proudly bearing it selfe in old time as I finde it written in an ancient Manuscript roule of the Romanes wall and even now also it is well and strongly walled But the fame and reputation that it now hath ariseth from the Inhabitants who are many in number courteous and wealthy by the trade of clothing from their faire and neat houses from the number also of Churches but most of all from the Bishops See which Sexwulph Bishop of the Mercians erected there in the yeere of Christ 680. having built a Cathedrall Church at the South side of the City which hath been often repaired and which the Bishops and Monkes by little and little have drawne out in length Westward almost to the very brinke of Severn Truly it is a passing faire and stately building adorned with the Monuments and Tombes of King Iohn Arthur Prince of Wales and divers of the Beauchamps and in these daies it is no lesse notable by the Deane and Chapter whom they call Prebendaries placed therein than it was in times past for the Monkes or the Cloister Priests For presently upon the first foundation like as in other religious houses of England married Priests were placed heere who carrying a long time a great opinion of holinesse governed the Churches untill that Danstane Archbishop of Canterbury had decreed in a Synode That from thence forward the religious men in England should live a
watereth Eovesham so called as the Monkes write of one Eoves Swinheard to Egwin Bishop of Worcester whereas before time the name of it was Eâ—th-home and Heath-field A very proper Towne situate upon an hill arising from the River in the Suburb as it were whereof was sometime Bengeworth Castle at the Bridge head which Castle William de Audevill the Abbot recovered by law against William Beauchamp utterly rased it and caused the place to be hallowed for a Church-yard A Towne this is well knowne by reason of the Abbay which that noble Egwin with the helpe of King Kenred the sonne of Wolpher King of the Mercians founded about the yeere of our Lord 700. knowne likewise for the vale under it named thereof The Vale of Evesham which for plentifull fertility hath well deserved to be called the Garnary of all these countries so good and plentifull is the ground in yeelding the best corne aboundantly But most knowne in elder time by occasion of the great overthrow of the Barons and our Catiline Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester For this man being of a lewd disposition and profound perfidiousnesse hath taught us that which another truly said That good turnes are so long acceptable as they may be requitable For when King Henry the Third had with full hand heaped upon him all the benefits he could yea and given him his owne sister in marriage what other fruit reaped he of his so great bounty but most bitter and deadly hatred For he raised a most dangerous Warre hee spoiled shamefully a great part of England under pretense of restoring the common wealth and maintaining liberty neither left he any thing undone to bring the King under to change the State and of a Monarchy to bring in an Oligarchy But in the end after that fortune had for a good while favourably smiled upon him he was slaine at this place with many others of his complices by the prowesse of Prince Edward and forthwith the sinke of lawlesse rebels being as it were pumped and emptied out of the common weale joyfull peace which hee had banished shone againe most comfortably on every side Upon the same River hard by standeth Charleton the possession sometime of the ancient family of Hansacres Knights but now of the Dinleies or Dingleies who being descended from that ancient stocke of the Dinleies in Lancashire came unto this by hereditary succession More beneath in the primitive Church of our English Nation there was another place wherein religious men lived to God then called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now Flatbury and neere unto it Pershor in the English Saxons language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 taking the name from Peares which as we reade in that worthy Historiographer William of Malmesbury Egelward Duke of Dorset a man bearing no nigardly minde but exceeding liberall founded and finished in King Eadgars time But what detriment hath it sustained one part of it the ambition of the rich seized upon another part oblivion hath buried but the greatest portion King Edward the Confessour and King William bestowed upon the Church of Westminster Then receiveth Avon a Riveret from the North upon which standeth Hodington a seat of the Winters out of which were Robert Winter and his brother Thomas who when as they were of the hellish damned crew in the Gunpowder Treason let their memory lie damned From thence Avon running gently downe by Strensham the habitation of the Russels Knights by degree of ancient descent in the end out-ladeth his owne streame into Severn Neere to these places on this South side is Oswaldslaw Hundred so called of Oswald Bishop of Worcester who obtained it for himselfe of King Eadgar The immunity whereof when William Conquerour made a Survey and taxation of all England was registred in the Domesday booke after this manner The Church of Saint Mary of Worcester hath the Hundred called Oswaldslaw wherein lye 300. Hides out of which the Bishop of the same Church by ancient order and custome hath all the revenewes of Soches and all customes or duties there appertaining to the Lords victuall and the Kings service and his owne so that no Sheriffe may hold there any action or suit neither in any plea nor in any other cause whatsoever This witnesseth the whole County A place there is about this Shire but precisely where it should be is not certainly knowne called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Augustines Oke at which Augustine the Apostle of the Englishmen and the Bishops of Britaine met and after they had disputed and debated the matter hotely for a good while touching the celebration of Easter preaching Godâ— Word also to the English Nation and of administring Baptisme according to the rites of the Roman Church in the end when they could not agree they departed on both sides with discontented mindes upon their dissenting opinions This Province since the Normans comming in had for the first Sheriffe Vrsus or Vrso de Abtot unto whom and his heires King William the Conquerour granted that office together with faire and large possessions After him succeeded his sonne Roger who as William of Malmesbury the Historiographer reporteth enjoying his fathers possessions through the high displeasure and indignation of King Henry the first was disseized thereof because in a furious fit of anger hee had commanded one of the Kings Officers to be killed But this Sheriffedome was by Emeline this Rogers sister translated hereditarily into the Family of the Beauchamps For she was married to Walter Beauchamp whom king Stephen after he had put downe Miles of Glocester ordained Constable of England Within some few yeeres king Stephen created Walleran Earle of Mellent twin-brother to Robert Bossu Earle of Leicester the first Earle of Worcester having given unto him the Citie of Worcester who afterwards became a Monke and died at Pratellae in Normandie in the yeere 1166. As for his sonne Robert who had wedded the daughter of Reginald Earle of Cornwall and advanced the Standard of rebellion against King Henry the Second and Peter his sonne who in the yeere 1203. revolted to the French neither of them used the title of Worcester but onely of Mellent so farre as ever I could yet read For King Henry the Second who succeeded Stephen would not easily suffer that any under him should enjoy the honors received from Stephen an usurper and his enemy For as I finde in the Annales of Waverley Abbay he put downe those imaginary and counterfeit Earles among whom King Stephen had inconsideratly distributed and given away all the revenewes pertaining to the Exchequer Neither to my knowledge was there any one that bare the title of the Earldome of Worcester untill the daies of King Richard the Second For he bestowed it upon Sir Thomas Percy who when he conspired against King Henry the Fourth was taken at the battaile of Shrewsbury and there beheaded Then Sir Richard Beauchamp descended from the Abtots received
Vlster So that doubtlesse he was either a man of rare vertue or a gracious favourite or a great Lawyer or else all jointly His posterity matched in marriage with the heires of the Lord Giffard of Brimsfield of Baron Martin Lord of Keimeis and Barstaple and a younger brother of this house with one of the heires of the Earle of Glocester and was by King Edward the Third created Earle of Glocester About which time James Lord Audley flourished in Chivalry who as the French write being grievously wounded in the battaile at Poitiers when the blacke Prince with many comfortable commendations had given him 400. Markes of yeerely revenewes he bestowed the same forthwith upon his foure Esquires who alwaies valiantly attended him and satisfied the Prince doubting that his gift was too little for so great service with this answer dutifully acknowledging his bounty It is meet that I doe well for them who deserved best of me These my Esquiers saved my life amidst my enemies And God be thanked my ancestours have left me sufficient revenewes to maintaine me in your service Whereupon the Prince approving this prudent liberality both confirmed his gift to his Esquires and assigned him moreover lands to the value of six hundred Markes yeerely But by his daughter one of the coheires to her brother the Title of Lord Audley came afterward to the Touchets and in them continueth Neither must I heere passe over in silence an house in this tract called Gerards Bromley both for the magnificence thereof and also because it is the principall seat of Sir Thomas Gerard whom King James in the first yeere of his Raigne created Baron Gerard of Gerards Bromley This Sow as it were a parallel river unto Trent runneth even with him and keeping an equall distance still from him by Chebsey which had in times past for Lords therof the Hastangs reputed among the prime Nobility in the time of King Edward the First not farre from Eccleshall the habitation of the Bishop of Lichfield and Ellenhall which was sometime the seat of the Noels a worshipfull house who founded heere a Monastery at Raunton and from whom it descended hereditarily to the Harcourts who being of the ancient Norman nobility flourished a long time in great dignity But yet of the male heires of the Noels there remaine still Sir Edward Noel of Dalby in Leicester-shire and the Noels of Wellesborow in Leicester-shire with others Then runneth Sow under Stafford in times past called Statford and before time Betheney where Bertelin reputed a very holy man led in ancient times an Eremits life in serving God And King Edward the Elder built on the South banke of the River a Castle in the yeere of Christ 914. What time as King William the Conquerour registred the Survey of all England as we reade in his Domesday Booke The King had in it only 18. Burgesses in his owne domaine and 20. Mansions of the honour of the Earle it paid for all customes nine pounds of deniers and had thirteene Chanons Prebendaries who held in franke Almoine and the King commanded a Castle to bee made which now is destroyed But then as now also it was the head Towne of the whole Shire howbeit the greatest credite and honor thereof came from Stafford Castle adjoyning which the Barons of Stafford of whose progeny were the Dukes of Buckingham built for their owne seat who procured of King John that it was made a Burrough with ample liberties caused it to be partly fensed with a Wall and erected a Priory of Blacke Chanons to the honour of Saint Thomas of Canterbury Beneath which the Riveret Penke which gave name to Pennocrucium or Penkridge whereof I have already spoken joyneth with that Sow aforesaid And neere unto the confluence of Sow and Trent standeth Ticks hall the dwelling place of the Astons a Family which for antiquity kinred and alliance is in these parts of great name Trent having harboured these rivers in his chanell passeth now through the mids of the Shire with a gentle streame taking a view of Chartley Castle standing two miles aside from the banke on the left hand which Castle came from Raulph Earle of Chester who built it unto the Ferrars by Agnes his sister whom William Ferrars Earle of Darby had marryed out of whose Race the Lords Ferrars of Chartley flourished and Anne the Daughter of the last of them brought this Honour as her dowry unto Sir Walter D'Eureux her husband from whom Robert D'Evereux Earle of Essex and Lord Ferrars of Chartley is lineally descended On the right side of the river about the same distance standeth most pleasantly among the woods Beaudesert the lodge in times past of the Bishops of Lichfield but now the house of the Lord Paget For Sir William Paget who for his approoved wisdome both at home and abroad stood in high favour with King Henry the Eight and King Edward the Sixth and obteined at their hands faire possessions was by the said K. Edward the Sixth created Lord Paget of Beaudesert He was that I may note so much out of his Epitaph Secretary and Privy Counsellour to King Henry the Eighth and appointed by his Testament Counsellour and aidor to King Edward the Sixth during his minority To whom he was Chauncellor of the Dutchy of Lancaster Controller of the house and by him made as I said Baron and knight of the Garter as by Queene Mary Lord Privy Seale Whose grandsonne William is now the fourth Baron Pagets and for his vertue and studies of the best arts is an honour to his house and in this respect deserveth to be honorably remembred From thence may you descrie Lichfield scarce foure miles from this right-side banke of Trent Bede calleth it Licidfeld which Rosse of Warwick interpreteth Cadaverum campus that is The field of dead bodies and reporteth that a number of Christians were there Martyred under the persecutor Dioclesian This City is low seated of a good largenesse and faire withall divided into two parts with a shallow poole of cleere water which parts notwithstanding joyne in one by the meanes of two bridges or causeies made over that have their sluces to let out the water The South part which is on the hither side is the greater consisting of divers streets hath in it the schoole and an hospitall of Saint John founded for reliefe of the poore The farther part is the lesse but beautified with a very goodly Cathedrall Church which being round about compassed with a faire wall castle-like and garnished beside with faire houses of Prebendaries and with the Bishops palace also doth mount upon high with three pyramids or spires of stone making an excellent shew and for elegant and proportionall building yeeldeth to few Cathedrall Churches In this place many ages past a Bishops See was established for in the 656. yeere after the Worlds redemption Oswie King of Northumberland having vanquished the Mercians as then
with his streame at Buldewas commonly Bildas there flourished a faire Abbay the Sepulture in times past of the noble Family of the Burnels Patrons thereof Higher into the Country there is a Mansion or Baiting Towne named Watling street of the situation upon the foresaid Rode way or street And hard by it are seene the Reliques of Castle Dalaley which after that Richard Earle of Arundell was attainted King Richard the Second by authority of the Parliament annexed to the Principality of Chester which hee had then erected And not farre from the foote of the foresaid Wreken in an hollow Valley by that high street before mentioned Oken-yate a little Village well knowne for the plentifull delfe there of pit-cole lieth so beneath and just at the same distance as Antonine placeth VSOCONA both from URICONIUM and also from PENNOCRUCIUM that no man need to doubt but that this Oken-yate was that USOCONA Neither doth the name it selfe gainesay it for this word Ys which in the British tongue signifieth Lowe may seeme added for to note the low situation thereof On the other side beneath this Hill appeareth Charleton Castle in ancient times belonging to the Charletons Lords of Powis and more Eastward next of all unto Staffordshire Tong-Castle called in old time Toang which the Vernons not long since repaired as also the College within the Towne which the Pembridges as I have read first founded Neither have the Inhabitants any thing heere more worth shewing than a Bell for the bignesse thereof very famous in all those parts adjoyning Hard to this lieth Albrighton which in the Raigne of King Edward the First was the seat of Sir Raulph de Pichford but now of the Talbotts branched from the Family of the Earles of Shrewesbury But above Tong was Lilleshul Abbay in a woodland Country founded by the family of Beaumeis whose heire was marryed into the house of De La Zouch But seeing there is little left but ruines I will leave it and proceed forward Beyond the river Terne on the brinke thereof standeth Draiton where in the civill warres between the houses of Lancaster and Yorke a field was fought that cost many a Gentleman of Cheshire his life For they although the battaile was given up almost on even hand when they could not agree among themselves but tooke part with both sides were slaine by heapes and numbers on either side Beneath this Draiton and nere enough to Terne lieth Hodnet wherein dwelt sometimes Gentlemen of the same name from whom hereditarily it is come by the Ludlows unto the Vernons It was held in times past of the Honour of Mont-Gomery by service to bee Seneschall or Steward of the same Honour After this Terne having passed haâ—d by certaine little rurall Townes taketh in unto him the Riveret Roden and when hee hath gone a few miles further neere unto Uriconium of which I spake even now falleth into the Severn Upon this Roden whiles hee is but new come from his spring head standeth Wem where are to be seene the tokens of a Castle long since begun there to be built This was the Barony after the first entry of the Normans of William Pantulph from whose Posterity it came at length to the Butlers and from them by the Ferrars of Ousley and the Barons of Greystock unto the Barons D'acre of Gillesland Within a little of this upon an high hill well wooded or upon a cliffe rather which sometime was called Radcliffe stood a Castle mounted aloft called of the reddish stone Red-Castle and in the Normans language Castle Rous the seat in old time of the Audleies through the liberall bounty of Lady Maude Le Strange But now there remaineth no more but desolate walles which yet make a faire shew Scarce a mile from hence lyeth all along the dead carcasse as it were of a small City now well neere consumed But the peeces of Romane money and those brickes which the Romans used in building there found doe testifie the antiquity and founders thereof The neighbour Inhabitants use to call it Bery as one would say Burgh and they report that it was a most famous place in King Arthurs daies as the common sort ascribe whatsoever is ancient and strange to King Arthurs glory Then upon the same River Morton Corbet anciently an house of the Family of Turet afterward a Castle of the Corbets sheweth it selfe where within our remembrance Robert Corbet carryed away with the affectionate delight of Architecture began to build in a barraine place a most gorgeous and stately house after the Italians modell But death prevented him so that he left the new worke unfinished and the old Castle defaced These Corbets are of ancient Nobility in this Shire and held Lordships by service of Roger Montgomery Earle of this County about the comming in of the Normans for Roger the son of Corbet held Huelebec Hundeslit Acton Fern-leg c. Robert the sonne of Corbet held land in Ulestanton Rotlinghop Branten and Udecot And in later ages this family farre and fairely propagated received encrease both of revenew and great alliance by the marriage of an heire of Hopton More Southward standeth Arcoll the habitation of the Newports knights of great worship descended from the Barons Grey of Codnor and the Lords of Mothwy and neere unto it is Hagmond Abbay which the Lords Fitz Alanes if they did not found yet they most especially endowed Not much lower upon Severn standeth most pleasantly the famousest City for so it was called in Domesday booke of this Shire risen by the ruine of Old Uriconium which wee at this day call Shrewsbury and Shrowsbury having mollified the name whereas our Ancestours called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for that it was anciently a very thicket of shrobs upon an hill In which sense both the Greekes tearmed their Bessa and our Welsh Britans named this also Pengwerne that is The high plot planted with Alders and a Palace so named continued heere a long time But whence it is that it is called now in the British tongue Ymwithig and by the Normans Scropesbery Sloppesbery and Salop and in the Latin tongue Salopia I am altogether ignorant unlesse it should bee the ancient name Scobbes-beng diversely distorted and dis-jointed Yet some skilfull in the British tongue thinke verily it is called Ymwithig as one would say Placentia or Plaisance of a British word Mewithau and that their Poets the Bardi so named it because of all others it best pleased the Princes of Wales in times past It is seated upon an Hill of a reddish earth and Severn having two very faire Bridges upon it gathering himselfe in manner round in forme of a circle so compasseth it that were it not for a small banke of firme land it might goe for an Island And thence it is that Leland the Antiquarian Poet wrote thus Edita Penguerni latè fastigia splendent Urbs sita lunatâ— veluti
of Woodstock his Daughter who was after remarried to Sir William Burchier called Earle of Ew And in our memorie King Edward the Sixth Honoured Walter D'Eureux the Lord Ferrars of Chartley descended by the Bourgchiers from the Bohuns with the title of Vicount Hereford whose Grand-sonne Walter Vicount Hereford Queene Elizabeth created afterwards Earle of Essex There are contained in this County Parishes 176. RADNOR Comitatus quem SILVRES Osim Incosuerunt RADNOR-SHIRE VPon Hereford-shire on the North-West joyneth Radnor-shire in the British tongue Sire Maiseveth in forme three square and the farther West it goeth the narrower still it groweth On the South-side the River Wy separateth it from Brecknock-shire and on the North part lieth Montgomery-shire The East and South parts thereof bee more fruitfull than the rest which lying uneven and rough with Mountaines is hardly bettered by painfull Husbandry yet it is stored well enough with Woods watered with running Rivers and in some places with standing Meres The East-side hath to beautifie it besides other Castles of the Lords Marchers now all buried well neere in their owne ruines Castle Paine built and so named of Paine a Norman and Castle Colwen which if I be not deceived was sometime called the Castle of Maud in Colewent For a very famous Castle that was and Robert de Todeney a great Noble man in the reigne of Edward the Second was Lord of it It is verily thought that it belonged aforetime to the Breoses Lords of Brechnoc and to have taken the name from Maude of Saint Valeric a very shrewd stout and malapert stomackfull woman wife to William Breos who discovered a rebellious minde against King John Which Castle being cast downe by the Welsh King Henry the Third in the yeere 1231. reedified strongly with stone and called it in despight of Lhewellin Prince of Wales Maugre Lhewellin But of especiall name is Radnor the principall Towne of the whole Shire in British Maiseveth faire built as the maner of that Country is with thatched houses In times past it was firmely fensed with a Wall and Castle but after that Owen Glendower dwy that notable Rebell had burnt it it began by little and little to decrease and grow to decay tasting of the same fortune that the mother thereof did before I meane Old Radnor called in British Maiseveth hean and for the high situation Pencrag which in the reigne of King John Rhese Ap Gruffin had set on fire If I should say that this Maiseveth or Radnor was that ancient Citie MAGI which Antonine the Emperour seemeth to call MAGNOS where as we finde in the booke of Notices the Commander of the Pacensian Regiment lay in garrison under the Lieutenant or Lord Generall of Britaine in the reigne of Theodosius the younger in mine owne opinion surely and perhaps in other mens conceit also I should not vary from the truth For we reade in Writers of the middle age of inhabitants of this coast called MAGESETAE also of Earles Masegetenses and Magesetenses and the distance if it be counted both from Gobannium or Abergevenny and also from Brangonium or Worcester differeth scarce an haire bredth from Antonines computation Scarce three miles Eastward from hence you see Prestaine in British Lhan Andre that is Saint Andrews Church which of a very little village within the memorie of our Grandfathers is by the meanes of Richard Martin Bishop of Saint Davids growne now to be so great a mercate Towne and faire withall that at this day it dammereth and dimmeth the light in some sort of Radnor From whence also scarce foure miles off stands Knighton a Towne able to match with Prestaine called in British as I have heard say Trebuclo in steed of Trefyclaudh of a famous ditch lying under it which Offa King of the Mercians with admirable worke and labour caused to be cast from Dee-Mouth unto Wy-Mouth by this Towne for the space of foureskore and ten miles to separate the Britans from his Englishmen whereupon in British it is called Claudh Offa that is Offaes ditch Concerning which John of Salisbury in his Policraticon writeth thus Harald ordained a law that what Welshmen soever should be found with a weapon on this side the limit which he had set them that is to say Offaes Dike he should have his right hand cut off by the Kings Officers When yee are past this place all the ground that lieth toward the West and South limits being for the most part barren leane and hungry is of the inhabitants called Melienith for that the Mountaines be of a yellowish colour Yet remaine there many footings as it were of Castles to be seene heere and there but especially Kevenles and Timbod which standing upon a sharpe poynted hill Lhewellin Prince of Wales overthrew in the yeere 1260. This Melienith reacheth as farre as to the River Wy which cutteth overthwart the West corner of this shire and being hindered in his streame with stones lying in his way upon a suddaine for want of ground to glide on hath a mighty and violent downefall whereupon the place is tearmed Raihader Gowy that is The fall or Fludgates of Wy And I cannot tell whether thereupon that British word Raihader the English men forged this name first for the whole shire and afterwards for the chiefe Towne By this Floudgate or fall of the water there was a Castle which Rhese Prince of Southwales as we reade repaired under King Richard the First Hard by there is in some sort a vast and wide wildernesse hideous after a sort to behold by reason of the turning and crooked by-waies and craggie Mountaines into which as the safest place of refuge Vortigern that pestilent wretch and bane of his native Country odious both to God and man and whose memory the Britains may wish damned withdrew himselfe when after he had called the Saxons into this Iland and in horrible incest married his owne daughter And heere he fell at length too too late into serious consideration of the greatnesse of his vile and wicked acts But by revenging fire from Heaven the flying dart of God above he was burnt with his Citie Caer Guortigern which he had heere built for his refuge And not farre from hence as if the place had been fatall not onely this Vortigern the last Monarch of British bloud but also Lhewellin the last Prince of Wales of the British race being forelaid was slaine by Adam Francton in the yeere of our Redemption 1282. Of the said Vortigern Ninnius nameth a little Country heere Guortiger-maur neither is that name as yet altogether lost but of the Ciâ—ie there remaineth no memory at all but our of writers Some are of opinion that Guthremion Castle arose out of the ruins and rubbish thereof which in the yeere 1201. the Welsh for malice they bare to Roger Lord Mortimer and in spight of him laid even with the ground Moreover this part of the Country was
Towne hath flourished and beene of name in regard of their priviledges and immunities granted unto them by the Family of Lancaster But for no one thing it is so much renowned as for this that it was the birth place of King Henry the Fifth that Triumpher over France and the second ornament of English Nation That Henry I say who by force of armes and military prowesse maugre the French conquered France and brought Charles the Sixth King of France to that extremity that after a sort he surrendred up his Crowne unto him In regard of whose successe and fortunate exploits in Warre John Seward a Poet in those dayes not of the lowest ranke in a joily lofty verse thus speaketh to the English Ite per extremum Tanain pigrósque Triones Ite per arentem Lybiam superate calores Solis arcanos Nili deprendite fontes Hercâ—leum finem Bacchi transcurrite metas Angli juris erit quicquid complectitur orbis Anglis rubra dabunt pretiosas aequora conchas Indus ebur ramos Panchaia vellera Seres Dum viget Henricus dum noster vivit Achilles Est etenim laudes longè transgressus avitas Passe on to Tanais farre remote to frozen Northren Coast Through Libye dry beyond the line where Sunnes heat parcheth most On forth and finde where all the springs of Nilus hidden lie Those pillers fixt by Hercules and bounds that mount on hie Surpasse the Limit-markes also which father Bacchus pight For why what all the earth containes is under Englands right To English shall the Red Sea yeeld the pretious pearely wilke Indy yvory sweet-frank-incense Panchaea Seres silke Whiles Henry lives that Champion Achilles-like of ours For he the praises farre surmounts of his Progenitours Monmouth glorieth also that Geffrey Ap Arthur or Arthurius Bishop of Asaph the compiler of the British History was borne and bred there a man to say truth well skilled in antiquities but as it seemeth not of antique credite so many toies and tales hee every where enterlaceth out of his owne braine as he was charged while hee lived in so much as now hee is ranged among those Writers whom the Roman Church hath censured to be forbidden From hence Wy with many windings and turnings runneth downe Southward yeelding very great plenty of delicate Salmons from September to April And is at this day the bound betweene Glocester-shire and Monmouth-shire in times past betweene the Welsh and Englishmen according to this Verse of Nechams making Inde vagos vaga Cambrenses hinc respicit Anglos By Wales on this side runneth Wy And of the other England he doth eye Who when he is come almost unto his mouth runneth by Chepstow that is if one interprete it after the Saxons tongue a Mercat The Britans call it Castle-went A famous Towne this is and of good resort situate upon the side of an Hill rising from the very River fortified round about with a Wall of a large circuite which includes within it both fields and orchyards It hath a very spacious Castle situate over the River and just against it stood a Priory the better part whereof being pulled downe the rest is conuerted into a Parish Church As for the Bridge that standeth over Wy it is of timber and very high built because the River at every tide riseth to a great heigth The Lords hereof were the Earles of Pembroch out of the Family of Clare who of Strighull Castle their seat a little way off were commonly called Earles of Strighull and of Pembrock The last of whom named Richard a man of an invincible courage and having wonderfull strong armes and long withall sirnamed Strongbow because hee shot in a bow of exceeding great bent and did nothing but with strong arme was the first that by his valour made way for the English into Ireland By a daughter of his it came to the Bigots c. but now it belongeth to the Earles of Worcester This Towne is not very ancient to speake of For many there bee that constantly affirme and not without good reason that not many ages agoe it had his beginning from VENTA a very ancient City that in the daies of Antonine the Emperor flourished about foure miles hence Westward and was named VENTA SILURUM as one would say the principall City of the Silures Which name neither hostile fury nor length of time hath as yet discontinued for it is called even at this day Caer went that is The City Went. But as for the City it selfe either time or hostility hath so carryed it away that now were it not onely for the ruinate walles the checker worke pavements and peeces of Roman money it would not appeare there was such a City It tooke up in compasse above a mile on the South side a great part of the Wall standeth and there remaine little better than the rubbish of three Bulwarks And yet of how great account it was in ancient times wee may gather if it were but by this that before the name of Monmouth once heard of all this whole Country was of it called Guent Went-set and Wents-land Moreover as wee reade in the life of Tathaius a British Saint it was an Academy that is to say a place dedicated to the study of good letters which the said Tathaie whom King Caradock the sonne of Inirius procured to come thither out of the desert wildernesse governed with great commendation and there founded a Church Five miles from hence Westward is seated Strighull Castle at the foote of the mountaines we call it at this day Strugle the Normans named it Estrighill which as wee reade in King William the First his Domesday booke William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built and afterwards it became the seat of the Earles of Pembrock out of the house of Clare Whereupon they were usually called Earles of Strighull as I even now intimated Beneath these places upon the Severn sea nere unto Wy-mouth standeth Portskeweth which Marianus nameth Potescith who hath recorded that Harald in the yeere 1065. erected a Fort there against the Welshmen which they streightwaies under the conduct of Caradock overthrew And adjoyning to it is Sudbrok the Church wherof called Trinity Chappell standeth so neere the sea that the vicinity of so tyrannous a neighbour hath spoiled it of halfe the Church-yarde as it hath done also of an old Fortification lying thereby which was compassed with a triple Ditch and three Rampiers as high as an ordinary house cast in forme of a bowe the string whereof is the sea-cliffe That this was a Romane worke the Britaine brickes and Romane coines there found are most certaine arguments among which the Reverend Father in God Francis Bishop of Landaffe by whose information I write this imparted unto me of his kindnesse one of the greatest peeces that ever I saw coined of Corinthian copper by the City of Elaia in the lesser Asia to the honour of the Emperour Severus
of the lands was fallen there was great competition for the title of Abergevenny argued in the High Court of Parliament in the second yeere of King James and their severall claimes debated seven severall daies by the learned Counsell of both parts before the Lords of the Parliament Yet when as the question of precise right in law was not sufficiently cleered but both of them in regard of the nobility and honor of their family were thought of every one right worthy of honorable title and whereas it appeared evidently by most certaine proofes that the title as well of the Barony of Abergevenny as of Le Despenser appertained hereditarily to this Family The Lords humbly and earnestly besought the King that both parties might be ennobled by way of restitution who graciously assented thereunto Hereupon the Lord Chancellour proposed unto the Lords first whether the heire male should have the title of Abergevenny or the heire female and the most voices carried it that the title of the Barony of Abergevenny should bee restored unto the heire male And when he propounded secondly whether the title of the Barony Le Despenser should bee restored unto the female they all with one accord gave their full consent Which being declared unto the King he confirmed their determination with his gracious approbation and royall assent Then was Edward Nevill by the Kings Writ called unto the Parliament by the name of Baron Abergavenney and in his Parliament Robes betweene two Barons as the manner is brought into the house and placed in his seat above the Baron Audley And at the very same time were the letters Patents read whereby the King restored erected preferred c. Mary Fane to the state degree title stile name honour and dignity of Baronesse Le-Despenser To have and to hold the foresaid state and unto the above named Mary and her heires and that her heires successively should bee Barons Le-Despenser c. And upon a new question mooved unto whether the Barony of Abergavenney or the Barony Le-Despenser the priority of place was due The Lords referred this point to the Commissioners for the Office of the Earle Mareschall of England who after mature deliberation and weighing of the matter gave definitive sentence for the Barony Le-Despenser set downe under their hands and signed with their seales which was read before the Lords of the Parliament and by order from them entered into the Journall Booke out of which I have summarily thus much exemplified John Hastings for I have no reason to passe it over in silence held this Castle by homage Wardship and marriage when it hapned as wee reade in the Inquisition and if there should chance any warre betweene the King of England and the Prince of Wales hee was to keepe the Country of Over-went at his owne charges in the best manner he can for his owne commodity the Kings behoofe and the Realme of Englands defense The second little City which Antonine named BURRIUM and setteth downe twelve miles from Gobannium standeth where the River Birthin and Uske meete in one streame The Britans at this day by transposing of the letters call it Brunebegy for Burenbegy and Caer Uske Giraldus tearmeth it Castrum Oscae that is The Castle of Uske and we Englishmen Uske At this day it can shew nothing but the ruines of a large and strong Castle situate most pleasantly betweene the River Uske and Oilwy a Riveret which beneath it runneth from the East by Ragland a faire house of the Earle of Worcesters built Castle-like The third City which Antonine nameth ISCA and LEGIO SECUNDA is on the other side of Uske twelve Italian miles just distant from BURRIUM as hee hath put it downe The Britans call it Caer Leon and Caer LEON ar Uske that is The City of the Legion upon Uske of the second Legion Augusta which also is called Britannica Secunda This Legion being ordained by the Emperour Augustus and translated by Claudius out of Germany into Britaine under the conduct of Vespasian being ready at his command when he aspired to bee Emperour and which procured the Legions in Britaine to take his part was heere at last placed in Garison by Julius Frontinus as it seemeth against the Silures How great this ISCA was in those dayes listen unto our Girald out of his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae who thus describeth it out of the ruines It was an ancient and Authenticke City excellently well built in old time by the Romanes with bricke Walles Heere may a man see many footings of the antique nobility and dignity it had mighty and huge Palaces with golden pinacles in times past resembling the proud statelinesse of the Romanes for that it had beene found first by Romane Princes and beautified with goodly buildings There may you behold a giant-like Towre notable and brave baines the remaines of Temples and Theatres all compassed in with faire walles which are partly yet standing There may one finde in every place as well within the circuit of the Wall as without houses under ground water pipes and Vaults within the earth and that which you will count among all the rest worth observation you may see every where hoâ—e houses made wondrous artificially breathing forth heate very closely at certaine narrow Tunnels in the sides Heere lye enterred two noble Protomartyrs of greater Britaine and next after Alban and Amphibalus the very principall heere crowned with Martyrdome namely Julius and Aaron and both of them had in this City a goodly Church dedicated unto them For in antient times there had beene three passing faire Churches in this City One of Julius the Martyr beautified with a chaire of Nunnes devoted to the service of God A second founded in the name of blessed Aaron his companion and ennobled with an excellent Order of Chanons Amphibalus also the Teacher of Saint Alban and a faithfull informer of him unto faith was borne heere The site of the City is excellent upon the River Oske able to beare a prety Vessell at an high water from the Sea and the City is fairely furnished with woods and medowes heere it was that the Romane Embassadours repaired unto the famous Court of that great King Arthur Where Dubritius also resigned the Archiepiscopall honour unto David of Menevia when the Metropolitane See was translated from hence to Menevia Thus much out of Giraldus But for the avouching and confirming of the Antiquity of this place I thinke it not impertinent to adjoyne heere those antique Inscriptions lately digged forth of the ground which the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin Bishop of Landaffe a passing great lover of venerable Antiquity and of all good Literature hath of his courtesie imparted unto me In the yeere 1602. in a medow adjoyning there was found by ditchers a certaine image of a personage girt and short trussed bearing a quiver but head hands and feet were broken off upon a pavement of square tile in checker
Garumna the Armorici their name for that they inhabited upon the Sea-side and the Horesci theirs because their inhabitation was upon the river Eske Neither is the very name of Ordevices quite vanished without any remaines thereof in this Tract For a great part of it which lyeth to the Sea-side is yet by the inhabitants usually called Ardudwy whereof it may seeme the Romanes have made these tearmes Ordovic and Ordevices carrying a softer and gentler sound But the whole Countrey excepting one small Shire is called of the Latine Writers by one name of a later stampe Guinethia and Venedotia and of the Britans Guineth and the same from the Veneti of Armorica as some thinke who as Caesar writeth Were wont very oft to saile unto Britaine But if I might bee allowed to change one onely letter I would suppose that this name was knowne to the Greekes and to Pausanias who in his Arcadica recordeth that Antoninus Pius the Emperour grievously punished the Brigantes for that they had made inrodes into GENOUNIA a Province of the Romans in Britaine Certes if it might bee lawfull to reade Genouthia for Genounia so neere in sound coÌ„meth that word to Guinethia and this Guinethia bordereth so neer to the Brigantes that unlesse Pausanias ment this region let Sibylla her selfe declare where it was and what it should be But these Countries belonged to the old ORDOVICES which are now called in English by new names Montgomery-shire Merioneth-shire Caernarvon-shire Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire MONGOMERY Comitatus qui olim pars ORDOVICVM MONTGOMERY-SHIRE MONTGOMERY-SHIRE in British Sire Tre-Faldwin so called of the principall Towne therein bounded on the South-side with Cardigan and Radnor-shires on the East with Shropp-shire on the North with Denbigh-shire and on the West with Merionith although it hath many an high Hill in it yet by reason of plentifull Valleies it is a good Country as well for Corne as Pasture and in old time a fruitefull breeder of the best kinde of Horses which as Giraldus saith by natures workemanship pourtraying as it were in a picture their noble shapes were very commendable as well for the Majesty of their making and bigge limmes as for their incomparable swiftnesse In the utmost corner of this Shire Westward where it endeth pointwise in manner of a Cone or Pine apple standeth Machleneth haply that which the Romanes called MAGLONA where under the Generall of Britaine in the time of the Emperour Theodosius the younger lay in Garison the Captaine of the Regiment of the Solenses for to represse and keepe under the Mountainers and two miles from hence neere unto Penall there is a place to bee seene named Keven Caer that is The backe or ridge of a Citie where peeces of Romane Coine are other whiles digged up and a circular forme of Walles of no small circuit are apparently seene by the remaines Five miles hence the Hill Plinlimon whereof I spake raiseth it selfe up to a wonderfull height and on that part where it boundeth one side of this shire it powreth forth SABRINA the greatest River in Britaine next to Thamis which the Britans tearme Haffren and Englishmen Severn Whence the name was derived I could never reade For that seemeth to smell of a fable which Geffrey hath devised of the Virgin Sabrina therein drowned and which a late Poet following his steps hath delivered thus in Verse In flumen pracipitatur Abren Nomen Abren fluvio de virgine nomen eidem Nomine corrupto deinde Sabrina datur Into the streame was Abren headlong cast The River then taking that Virgins name Hight Abren and thereof Sabrin at last Which tearme in speech corrupt implies the same This River immediately from his spring head maketh such a number of windings in and out in his course that a man would thinke many times hee returnes againe to his fountaine yet for all that hee runneth forward or rather slowly wandereth through this shire Shropp-shire Worcester-shire and last of all Glocester-shire infusing a certaine vitall moisture into the soile every where as he passeth untill at length hee mildely dischargeth himselfe into the Severn Sea But in this shire it being overshadowed with Woods after much strugling hee getteth out Northward by Lanidlos Trenewith or Newtowne and Caer-fuse which as they say is both ancient and enjoyeth also ancient priviledges and not farre from his East banke leaveth behinde him the Castle and Towne of Montgomery upon the rising of a Rocke having a pleasant Plaine under it The Englishmen named the Castle Montgomery and the Latines Mons Gomericus of Roger de Montgomery Earle of Shrewesbury who winning much land heereabout from the Welsh built it as wee finde in Domesday booke But when his sonne Robert was attainted for Rebellion King Henry the First gave this Castle and the honour of Montgomery to Baldwin Bollers in marriage with Sybill of Falais his Niece According to whose name the Welshmen call the Towne standing a little from the Castle Tre-Faldwin that is Baldwins Towne From this Baldwin descended Vital Engain who claimed this Honour as right Heire in the time of king Henry the Third About which time the said king Henry the Third raised it up againe out of the very ashes For the Welsh had slaine the Garison Souldiers and overthrowne it and so it lay desolate for many yeeres and Florilegus fableth That hee of the situation of the place then first named it Montgomery Certaine it is that the said king then granted by his Patent That the Burrough of Montgomery should be a free Burrough with other Liberties Now the Herberâ—s are heere seated branched out from a brother of Sir William Herbert the first Earle of Penbroke of that name Hard by this Corndon Hill mounteth up to a very great height in the top whereof are placed certaine stones in a round circle like a Coronet whence it taketh that name in memoriall as it should seeme of some victory A little higher Severn glideth downe by Trellin that is The Towne by a Poole whereupon it is called Welch Poole in English It hath a Castle joyning unto it on the South side called Castle Coch of a kinde of reddish stone wherewith it is built which within the compasse of one wall containeth two Castles the one belonged to the Lord of Powis the other to the Baron Dudley Cadugane the sonne of Blethin that renowned Britan of whom I spake whiles he was busie about the building of this Castle was as we finde in the Epitome of Lancarbanensis slaine by his nephew Madock Right over against this Castle on the other side of the River standeth Buttington well knowne by reason of the Danes wintering there out of which Adhered Earle of the Mercians expelled them in the yeere of Christ 894. as Marianus writeth Severn being past these places turneth by little and little Eastward that he may the sooner entertaine the small River Tanet which being once received into his society hee
some places Barley in others Wheat but generally throughout Rye with twenty fold encrease and better and afterwards foure or five Crops together of Otes In the Confines of this Shire and Denbigh-shire where the hilles grow more flat and plaine with a softer fall and an easier descent downe into the Vale in the very gullet and entry thereof the Romanes placed a little City named VARIS which Antonine the Emperour placeth nineteene miles from CONOVIUM This without any maime of the name is called at this day Bod-Vari that is Mansion Vari and the next little hill hard by which the inhabitants thereabout commonly call Moyly Gaer that is The Mountaine of the City sheweth the footings of a City indeed that hath beene destroyed But what the name should signifie it appeareth not I for my part have beene of opinion elsewhere that Varia in the old British language signified a Passage and accordingly have interpreted these words Durnovaria and Isannaevaria The passage of a water and the passage of Isanna And for this opinion of mine maketh well the situation of VARIS in that place where onely there lyeth open an easie passage betwixt the hilles And not three miles from hence standeth Caer-wisk the name whereof although it maketh some shew of Antiquity yet found I nothing ancient there nor worth the observation Beneath this VARIS or Bodvari in the vale glideth Cluid and streightwayes Elwy a little Rivereâ— conjoyneth it selfe with it where there is a Bishops See This place the Britans call according to the River Llan-Elwy the Englishmen of Asaph the Patron thereof Saint Asaph And the Historiographers Asaphensis Neither is the Towne for any beauty it hath nor the Church for building or bravery memorable yet something would be said of it in regard of Antiquity For about the yeere of our Redemption 560. Kentigern Bishop of Glasco being fled hither out of Scotland placed heere a Bishops See and erected a Monastery having gathered together sixe hundred threescore and three in a religious brotherhood Whereof three hundred being unlearned did give themselves to husbandry and as many moe to worke and labour within the Monastery the rest to Divine Service Whom hee divided so by Covents that some of them should continually give attendance in the Church to the scervie of God But when he returned into Scotland he ordain'd Asaph a most godly and upright man Governor over this Monastery of whom it tooke the name which now it hath The Bishop of this See hath under his Jurisdiction about 128. Parishes the Ecclesiasticall Benefices whereof were wont to bee bestowed when the See was voide by the Archbishop of Canterbury without interruption untill the time of King Henry the Eighth and that by his Archiepiscopall right which now is counted a Regality For so we reade in the History of Canterbury Above this Ruthlan taking the name of the ruddy and red banke of Câ—uid on which it stands maketh a good shew with a Castle but now almost consumed by very age Lhewellin Ap Sisil Prince of Wales first built it and Robert sirnamed de Ruthland Nephew of Hugh Earle of Chester was the first that by force wonne it from the Welsh as being Captaine Lieutenant to the said Hugh who fortified it with new workes and bulwarkes Afterward as Rob. Abbat de Monte hath written King Henry the Second when hee had repaired this Castle gave it unto Hugh Beauchamp Beneath this Cluid streightwayes emptieth it selfe into the Sea And albeit the Valley at the very mouth seemeth to carry a lower levell and to lye under the Sea yet the water never overfloweth into the Vale but as it were by a naturall obstacle staâ—eth within the very brinkes of the shore not without the exceeding great admiration of Gods Providence From hence the shore tending by little and little Eastward shooteth forward first by Disart Castle so called because it was situate on the rising of a cliffe or as some would have it as it were Desert then by Basing werke which also King Henry the Second granted unto Hugh Beauchamp Beneath this wee saw the little Towne Haly-well as one would say holy well where there is that fountaine frequented by Pilgrimes for the memoriall of the Christian Virgin Winefride ravished there perforce and beheaded by a Tyranne as also for the mosse there growing of a most sweet and pleasant smell Out of which Well there gusheth forth a Brooke among stones which represent bloudy spottes upon them and it carryeth so violent a streame that presently it is able to drive a mill Over the very Well there standeth a Chappell built of stone right curiously wrought whereunto adjoyneth a little Church in a window whereof is portrayed and set out the History of the said Winefride how her head was cut off and set on againe by Saint Bennâ— Neere unto this place in the time of Giraldus who yet knew not this Well There was as himselfe writeth a rich Veine and gainefull Mine of silver where men in seeking after silver pierced and pried into the very bowels of the Earth This part of the Country because it smileth so pleasantly upon the beholders with a beautifull shew and was long since subject unto Englishmen the Welsh named Teg-Engle that is Faire England But whereas one hath tearmed it Tegenia and thought that the Igeni there planted themselves take heede I advise you that you be not overhasty to beleeve him Certes the name of the Iceni wrong put downe here deceived the good man Then upon the shore you may see Flint Castle which King Henry the Second beganne and King Edward the First finished and it gave the name unto this Shire where King Richard the Second circumvented by them who should have beene most trusty was cunningly induced to renounce the Crowne as unable for certaine defects to rule and was delivered into the hands of Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford who soone after claimed the Kingdome and Crowne being then voide by his cession as his inheritance descended from King Henry the Third and to this his devised claime the Parliament assented and hee was established in the Kingdome After Flint by the East border of the Shire neere to Chesshire standeth Hawarden commonly called Harden-Castle not farre from the shore out of which when David Lhewellins brother had led away prisoner Roger Clifford Iustice of Wales hee raised thereby a most bloudy Warre against himselfe and his people wherein the Princedome of the Welsh Nation was utterly overthrowne But this Castle anciently holden by the Seneschalship of the Earles of Chester was the seat of the Barons de Mount-hauls who grew up to a most honourable family and gave for their Armes in A Shield Azure a Lion rampant Argent and bettered their dignity and estate by marriage with Cecily one of the coheires of Hugh D'Albeney Earle of Arundell But in the end for default of male issue Robert the
them who deserve for their vertue and piety to bee renowned Let it suffice to note in a word that from Paulinus the first Archbishop consecrated in the yeere of our Redemption 625. there have sitten in that See threescore and five Archbishops unto the yeere 1606. in which D. Tobie Matthew a most reverend Prelate for the ornaments of vertue and piety for learned eloquence and continuall exercise of teaching was translated hither from the Bishopricke of Durrham This City for a time flourished very notably under the English Saxons dominion untill the Danes like a mighty storme thundring from out of the North-East defaced it againe with merveilous great ruines and by killing and slaying disteined it with bloud which that Alcuine aforesaid in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland may seeme to have presaged before What signifieth saith he that raining of bloud which in Lent we saw at Yorke the head City of the whole Kingdome in Saint Peters Church to fall downe violently in threatning wise from the top of the roufe in the North part of the house and that in a faire day May it not bee thought that bloud is comming upon the Land from the North parts Verily soone after it was embrued with bloud and did pine away with most miserable calamities when the Danes spoiled wasted and murrhered all where ever they came And verily in the yeere 867. the wals were so battered and shaken by reason of continuall Warres that Osbright and Ella Kings of Northumberland whiles they pursewed the Danes easily brake into the City who being both of them slaine in a most bloudy battaile in the very middest of the City left the victory unto the Danes Whereupon William of Malmesbury writeth in this manner Yorke alwaies exposed first to the rage of the Northren Nations sustained the barbarous assaults of the Danes and groaned being pitteously shaken with manifold ruines But as the very same Authour witnesseth King Athelstone wonne it perforce out of the Danes hands and overthrew the Castle quite which they had heere fortified Neither for all this was it altogether free from warres in the times next ensuing whiles that age ranne fatall for the destruction of Cities But the Normans as they ended these miseries so they made almost a finall hand of Yorke also For when the sonnes of Sueno the Dane had landed in these parts with a Danish Fleete of 240. Saile the Normans lying in Garison who kept two Forts within the City fearing least the houses in the Suburbes might stand the enemy in stead to fill up the Ditches withall set them on fire but by reason the winde rose highly the fire was so carried and spred throughout that City that now it was set a burning when the Danes breaking in upon them made pitifull slaughter in every place having put the Normans to the sword and keeping alive William Mallet and Gilbert Gant two principall persons that they might be tithed with the souldiers For every tenth man of the Normans they chose out by lot to be executed Whereupon King William the Conquerour was so incensed with desire of revenge that he shewed his cruelty upon the Citizens by putting them all to death as if they had taken part with the Danes and upon the City it selfe by setting it on fire afresh and as William of Malmesbury saith Hee so depopulated and defaced the Villages adjoyning and the sinewes of that fertile Region were so cut by the spoiles there committed and booties raised and the ground for the space of threescore miles lay so untilled that if a stranger had then seene the Cities that in times were of high account the Towres which with their lofty toppes threatned the skie and the fields that were rich in pastures hee could not but sigh and lament yea and if an ancient inhabitant had beheld the same hee could not have knowne them How great Yorke had beene aforetime Domesday booke shall tell you in these words In King Edward the Confessours time there were in Yorke City sixe Divisions or Shires besides that of the Archbishops One was laid waste for the Castles or Forts In the five Divisions were 1428. dwelling Mansions to give entertainement And in the Archbishops Shire or Division 200. dwelling Mansions likewise After these woefull overthrowes our countryman Necham thus versified of it Visito quam foelix Ebrancus condidit urbem Petro se debet pontificalis apex Civibus hac toties viduata novÃsque repleta Diruta prospexit moenia saepe sua Quid manus hostilis queat est experta frequenter Sed quid nunc pacis otia longa fovent The City that Great Ebrauk built I come now for to view Whereof the See pontificall is to Saint Peter due This many times laid desolate and peopled new hath beene Her wals cast downe and ruinate full often hath it seene What mischiefe hostile hands could worke not once nor twice it found What then since now long time of peace doth keepe it safe and sound For in his time when after these troublesome stormes a most pleasant calme of peace presently ensued it rose of it selfe againe and flourished afresh although the Scots and Rebels both did oftentimes make full account to destroy it But under the Raigne of King Stephen it caught exceeding great harme by casualty of fire wherein were consumed the Cathedrall Church the Abbay of Saint Mary and other religious houses yea and that noble and most furnished Library as it is thought which Alcuin hath recorded to have been founded by Archbishop Egeldred his Praeceptour As for the Abbay of Saint Mary it quickly recovered the former dignity by new buildings but the Cathedrall Church lay longer ere it held up head againe and not before King Edward the First his time For then John Roman Treasurer of the Church laid the foundation of a new worke which his sonne John William Melton and John Thoresby all of them Archbishops brought by little and little to that perfection and beauty which now it sheweth yet not without the helping hand of the Nobility and Gentry thereabout especially of the Percies and the Vavasours which the armes of their houses standing in the very Church and their images at the West gate of the Church doe shew Percies pourtraied with a peece of timber and Vavasours with a stone in their hands for that the one supplied the stone the other the timber for this new building This Church as he reporteth who wrote the life of Aeneas Sylvius who was Pope Pius the second and that upon the Popes owne relation For workmanship and greatnesse is memorable over all the world and the Chappell most lightsome the glasse-windowes whereof are fast bound betweene pillars that bee most slender in the mids This Chappell is that most dainty and beautifull Chapter-house in which this verse stands painted in golden letters Ut Rosa flos florum sic est Domus ista Domorum The floure of floures a Rose men call So is
clawbackes BRITANNICUS even when the Britans would have elected an Emperour against him And then it may seeme was this Statue of his set up when he prizing himselfe more than a man proceeded to that folly that he gave commandement he should be called The Romane Hercules Iupiters sonne For hee was portraied in the habite of Hercules and his right hand armed with a club under which there lay as I have heard such a mangled Inscription as this broken heere and there with voide places betweene the draught whereof was badly taken out and before I came hither was utterly spoiled CAESARI AUGUSTO MARCI AURELII FILIO SEN IONIS AMPLISSIMI VENTS PIUS This was to be seene in Nappa an house built with turrets and the chiefe seat of the Medcalfs thought to be at this day the greatest family for multitude of the same name in all England for I have heard that Sir Christopher Medcalfe knight and the top of this kinred beeing of late high-Sheriffe of the shire accompanied with three hundred men of the same house all on horsback and in a livery met and received the Justices of Assizes and so brought them to Yorke From hence runneth Vre downe a maine full of Creifishes ever since Sir Christopher Medcalfe in our remembrance brought that kinde of fish hither out of the South part of England and betweene two rockes whereof the place is named Att-scarre it runneth head long downe not far from Bolton a stately Castle the ancient seat of the Barons Scrops and which Richard Lord le Scrope and Chancellour of England under king Richard the Second built with exceeding great coste and now bending his course Eastward commeth to Midelham the honour whereof as wee reade in the Genealogie or Pedegree of the Nevils Alan Earle of Richmond bestowed upon his younger brother Rinebald with all the lands which before their comming belonged to Gilpatrick the Dane His nephew by his sonne Raulph named Robert Fitz-Raulph had all Wentsedale also by gift of Conan Earle of Britaine and of Richmond and at Midleham raised a most strong Castle His sonne Ranulph erected a little Abbay for Chanons at Coverham called now short Corham in Coverdale whose sonne Raulph had a daughter named Mary who being wedded to Robert Lord Nevill with this marriage translated this very faire and large inheritance as her portion into the family of Nevils Which Robert Nevill having had many children by his wife was taken in adultery unknowne and by the husband of the adulteresse being for revenge berest of his genitours shortly after dyed with extremity of paine Then Ure after it hath passed a few miles forward watereth Iervis or Iorvalle Abbay of Cistertians founded first at Fo rs and after translated hither by Stephen Earle of Britaine and Richmond but now wholly ruinated and after that Masham which was the possession of the Scropes of Masham who as they sprung from the stocke of the Scropes of Bolton so they were by marriages ingraffed againe into the same On the other side of this River but more inward standeth Snath the principall house of the Barons Latimer who derived their noble descent from George Nevill younger sonne of Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmorland and he received this Title of honour from king Henry the Sixth when as the ancienter house of the Latimers expired in a female and so by a continued succession they have flourished unto these our daies when for default of male issue of the last Baron Latimer that goodly and rich inheritance was divided among his daughters marryed into the families of the Percies Cecils D'anvers and Cornwallis Neither are there any other places in this part of the shire worth the naming that Ure runneth by unlesse it bee Tanfeld the habitation in times past of the Gernegans knights from whom it descended to the Marmions the last of whom left for his heire Amice second wife to John Lord Grey of Rotherfeld by whom he had two sonnes John that assumed the sirname of Marmion and died issuelesse and Robert who left behinde him one onely daughter and sole heire Elizabeth wife to Sir Henry Fitz-Hugh a noble Baron After this Ure entertaineth the River Swale so called as Th. Spot writeth of his swiftnesse selfe into it with a maine and violent streame which Swale runneth downe Eastward out of the West Mountaines also scarce five miles above the head of Ure a River reputed very sacred amongst the ancient English for that in it when the English Saxons first embraced Christianity there were in one day baptized with festivall joy by Paulinus the Archbishop of Yorke above tenne thousand men besides women and little children This Swale passeth downe along an open Vale of good largenesse which of it is called Swal-dale having good plenty of grasse but as great want of wood first by Marrick where there stood an Abbay built by the Askes men in old time of great name also by Mask a place full of lead ore Then runneth it through Richmond the chiefe towne of the Country having but a small circuit of walles but yet by reason of the Suburbs lying out in length at three Gates well peopled and frequented Which Alan the first Earle thereof built reposing small trust in Gilling a place or Manour house of his hard by to withstand the violence of the Danes and English whom the Normans had despoiled of their inheritance and hee adorned it with this name as one would say The rich Mount he fensed it with a wall and a most strong Castle which being set upon a rocke from an high looketh downe to Swale that with a mighty rumbling noise rusheth rather than runneth among the stones For the said house or Manour place of Gilling was more holy in regard of devout religion than sure and strong for any fortification it had ever since that therein Beda calleth it Gethling Oswy King of Northumberland being entertained guest-wise was by his hoste forelaid and murthered for the expiation whereof the said Monastery was built highly accounted of among our ancestours More Northward Ravenswath Castle sheweth it selfe compassed with a good large wall but now fallen which was the seat of the Barons named Fitz-Hugh extracted from the ancient line of the English Nation who were Lords of the place before the Normans Conquest and lived in great name unto King Henry the Seventh his daies enriched with faire possessions by marriage with the heires of the noble houses of Furneaux and Marmion which came at last by the females unto the Fienes Lords Dacres in the South and to the Parrs Three miles beneath Richmond Swale runneth by that ancient City which Ptolomee and Antonine call CATURACTONIUM and CATARRACTON but Bede Catarractan and in another place the Village neere unto Catarracta whereupon I suppose it had the name of Catarracta that is a Fludfall or water-fall considering hard by there
the opinion of other men is of it SEOESAM ROLNASON OSALVEDN AL. Q. Q. SAR BREVENM BEDIANIS ANTONI US MEG VI. IC DOMU ELITER For mine owne part I can make nothing else thereof but that most of these words were the British names of places adjoining In the yeere 1603. when I went a second time to see this place I hapned upon the greatest and fairest Altar that ever I saw dedicated to the Mother Goddesses by a Captain of the Asturians with this inscription DEISMATRIBVS M. INGENVIVS ASIATICVS DEC AL. AST SS LL. M. Concerning these DEABUS or DEIS MATRIBUS that is Mothers Goddesses what they were I cannot finde out with all my searching for in the volumes of Inscriptions gathered through the world save in another Altar besides found among us they are not mentioned as farre as I remember Onely I read that Enguium a little towne in Sicily was ennobled for the presence of the MOTHER GODDESSES wherein were shewed certaine speares and brazen helmets which Metio and Ulysses consecrated to those Goddesses Another little Altar I saw there cast out among rubbish stone with this inscription PACIFE RO MARTI ELEGAUR BA POS UIT EX VO TO So small a one this was that it may seeme to have beene some poore mans little altar to carry with him to and fro serving only to burne and offer incense or salt and meale upon it whereas that other was farre bigger and made for to sacrifice and offer greater beasts upon it In these altars the posterity no doubt imitated Noah even after they had fallen away and revolted from the true worship of God Neither erected they altars to their Gods onely but also unto their Emperours by way of servile flattery with this impious title NUMINI MAIESTATIQUE EORUM that is unto their GOD-HEAD and Majesty Unto these they kneeled in humble maner these they clasped about and embraced as they prayed before these they tooke their oathes and in one word in these and in their sacrifices consisted the maine substance of all their religion so farre forth that whosoever had no altar of their owne they were thought verily to have no religion nor to acknowledge any God at all Moreover very lately and but the other day a stone was digged up here wherein was engraven the naked portract or image of a man on horse-backe without saddle without bridle with both hands seeming to launce his speare and ready to ride over a naked man lying downe along at his foot who holdeth before I wot not what foure square peece Betweene the horse and him that lieth along are these letters D.M. and under him so lying are read these words CAL. SARMATA All the letters beside which were many are so worne out and gone that they could not be read neither list I to guesse any farther what they were That ALA SARMATARUM that is a wing of Sarmatian horsemen abode in this place it may seeme as well by that former inscription as by this that many yeeres before was found hard by HIS TERRIS TEGITUR AEL MATRONA QU VIX AN. XXVIII M. II. D. VIII ET M. JULIUS MAXIMUS FIL. VIX AN. VI. M. III. D. XX. ET CAM PANIA DUBBA MATER VIX AN. L. JULIUS MAXIMUS ALAE SAR CONJUX CONJUGI INCOMPARABILI ET FILIO PATRI PIENTIS SIMO ET SOCERAE TENA CISSIMAE MEMORIAE P. But hence have wee no light at all toward the finding out of the ancient name of this place which now is in question unlesse it hath now and then changed the name which otherwhiles usually happeneth For in this place Ptolomy hath set RIGODUNUM if for RIBODUNUM the name is not altogether unlike to Ribbechester and just at this distance from Mancunium that is Manchester that is to say 18. miles off doth Antonine place COCCIM which also in some copies we read GOCCIUM But when the flourishing fortune of this City having runne the full and fatall period was faded either by warre or earthquake as the common sort doe think somewhat lower where Ribell suffereth the violence of the flowing tides of the Sea and is called of the Geographer BELLISAMA AESTUARIUM that is the salt-water BELLISAMA neare unto Peneworth where in the Conquerors reigne there was a little castle as appeareth by the Records of the said King out of the fall of Riblechester arose in steed of it her daughter Preston a great and for these Countries a faire town well inhabited so called of religious men for in our speech the name soundeth as much as Priests towne Beneath this Ribell Derwen a rill commeth in with his water and the first mercate towne that hee watereth is Blacke-borne so called of the Blacke-water which towne belonging in times past to the Lacies gave name unto Blackburne-shire a little territory adjoining from thence it runneth by Houghton-towre which communicated the name unto a notable family that long time dwelt in it and by Waleton which William Lord of Lancaster King Stephens sonne gave unto Walter de Walton and afterward it was the possession of the ancient race of the Langtons who descended from the said Waltons But now let us returne The said Preston whereof I spake is by the common people called Preston in Andernesse for Acmundes-nesse for so the English Saxons tearmed this part of the shire which lying between the two rivers Ribel and Cocar stretcheth out with a promontory in manner of a nose which afterwards they also called Acmundernesse Wherein were no more but 16. villages inhabited in King William the Conquerors time the rest lay wast as we read in Doomes-day booke and Roger of Poictiers held the same But afterwards it belonged to Theobald Walter from whom the Bottelers of Ireland derive their beginning for thus wee read in a Charter of K. Richard the first Know yee that wee have given and by this present Charter confirmed unto Theobald Walter for his homage and service Agmondernesse full and whole with all the appertenences c. This part yeeldeth plenty of oates but not so apt to beare barly Howbeit it is full of fresh pastures especially to the sea side where it is partly Champion ground and thereupon it seemeth that a good part of it is called The File for the Field and yet in the Kings Rolls it goeth under the Latine name LIMA that is a File namely that Smithes toole or instrument wherewith Iron or any other thing is smoothed But because elsewhere it is marish ground they hold it not very wholsome Wie a little river speedily cutting over this part commeth rolling downe out of Wierdale a very solitary place and runneth by Grenhaugh Castle which Thomas Stanley the first Earle of Derby out of this family built what time as hee stood in feare of certaine out-lawed Gentlemen of this shire whose possessions King Henry the seventh had freely given unto him For many an assault they gave him and other
CONGAVATA was hereabout in which the second band of the Lergi served in garison for Congavata in the British tongue signifieth The valley by Gavata which now is called short Caud But the very place where this towne stood I cannot precisely point out Betwixt the meeting of these rivers the ancient City Carlile is passing commodiously and pleasantly seated garded on the North side with the chanell of Eden on the East with Peterill on the West with Caud and beside these naturall fenses it is fortified with strong walls of stone with a castle and a citadell as they tearme it In fashion it lyeth somewhat long running out from West to East on the West side is the Castle of a good large compasse which King Richard the third as appeareth by his Armes repaired In the midst almost of the City riseth on high the Cathedrall Church the upper part whereof being the newer is very artificially and curiously wrought yet the nether part is much more ancient But on the East side it is defended with the Citadel that K. Henry the eighth built strongly with sundry bulwarks The Romans and Britans called this city LUGU-VALLUM and LUGU-BALLIUM or LUGU-BALIA the English Saxons Luell as Bede witnesseth Ptolomee as some think LEUCOPIBIA Ninnius Caer Lualid the ridiculous prophesies of the Britans tearmed it The City of Duball we Carlile and Latine writers by a newer name Carleolum For our Historiographers accord with common consent that Luguballia and Carleolum were the same But in searching out the Etymology thereof good God how hath Leland bestirred him being in the end driven to this point that he thought verily Eden was called Lugus and Ballum came from Vallis that is a vale so that Lugu-ballum soundeth as much as the Vale by Lugus But I if so bee I may also hatch a conjecture would rather suppose but without prejudice that the said termination Vallum and Vallia are derived from that most famous military Vallum or Trench that standeth apparent a little from the City For that Picts Wall which was afterwards set upon the Trench or rampire of Severus appeareth somewhat beyond the River Eden which now hath a woodden bridge over it neere unto a little village called Stanwicke and went over the very river just against the Castle where within the chanell of the river mighty stones the remaines thereof are yet extant Also Lugus or Lucus amongst the ancient Celis or Gaules who spake the same language that once the Britans did signifieth a Tower as we may learn by Pomponius Mela. For that which in Antonine is named LUGO-AUGUSTI hee calleth TURRIM AUGUSTI that is The Tower of Augustus so that Luga-Vallum is as much to say as the Tower or Fort by the wall From this originall if the Frenchmen had derived Lugudunum as it were The tower on an hill and Lucotecia for so in old time they called that city which we doâ— Lutetia that is Paris as it were The faire Tower for so those words signifie in the British tongue peradventure they had aimed neerer unto the marke than in fetching the one from Lutum that is Dirt and that other from Lugdus an imagined King That this Carlile flourished in the time of the Romanes divers tokens of antiquity now and then digged up there and the famous mention of it in those dayes doe sufficiently prove After the furious outrages also of the Picts and Scots were allayed it retained some part still of the ancient dignity and was counted a City For in the yeere of Christ 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland passed a gift unto that holy Saint Cuthbert in this forme I have given unto him also the City called Luguballia and â—5 miles round about it at which time also it was walled strong The Citizens saith Bede brought Cuthbert to see the walls of their City and a fountain or Well in it built in times past according to the wonderfull workmanship of the Romanes who at the very same time as saith the book of Durham ordained there a Covent of Nuns with an Abbesse and Schooles Afterwards being defaced and brought to exceeding ruin by the Danes it lay about 200. yeeres buried under his owne ashes untill it began againe to flourish under the government and favour of King William Rufus who repaired it with new edifices built the Castle and placed a Colony there first of Flemmings whom streightwaies upon better advice he removed into Wales but afterwards of Southerne Englishmen Then was there seen as William of Malmesbury writeth A dining chamber after the Roman fashion built of stone arched with vaults so that no spitefull force of tempests nor furious flame of fire could ever shake or hurt it in the forefront whereof was this Inscription MARII VICTORIAE that is â—o the victory of Marius This Marius some will needs have to be Arviragus the Britan others that Marius who being proclaimed Emperour against Gallienus was named to bee of wonderfull strength that as writers report of him He had in his fingers no veines but all sinewes Yet have I learned that another making mention of this stone saith it was not inscribed MARII VICTORIAE but MARTI VICTORI that is To victorious Mars which perhaps may better content some and seeme to come nearer unto the truth Carlile being now better peopled and of greater resort had as they write for Earle or more truly for Lord thereof Ralph Meschines from whom came the Earles of Chester and at the same time being raised by King Henry the first to an Episcopall dignity had Artalph for the first Bishop Which the Monks of Durham have written was prejudiciall to their Church when Ranulph say they Bishop of Durham was banished and the Church had none to defend her certain Bishops laid Carlile and Tividale to their Dioeceses But how the Scotish under the reign of Stephen won this City and King Henry the second recovered it how also King Henry the third committed the castle of Carlile and the County to Robert Vipont how likewise in the yeere 1292. it was burnt together with the Cathedrall Church and the Suburbs and how Robert Briâ— King of Scots in the yeere 1315. land siege unto it in vaine you may finde in the common Chronicles And yet it seemes it would quit my paines to adjoyne here two inscriptions that I saw here the one in Thomas Aglion by his house neere unto the Citadell but made in the worse age DIIS MANIBU SMARCI TROJANI AUGUSTINANI TUM FA CIENDUM CUR A VIT AFEL AMMILLUSIMA CONJUX KARISS Whereunto is adjoined the image of a man of Armes on horsebacke armed at all peeces with a launce in his hand As for the other it standeth in the garden of Thomas Middleton in a very large and faire letter thus LEG VI VIC P. F. G. P. R. F. Which is as I ghesse Legio Sexta Victrix Pia Felix the rest let some other decipher The onely Earle that
did cast a ditch or trench crosse over the Iland from sea to sea within it also he built a wall with turrets and bulwarkes Which afterwards he calleth Fossam Severiam that is Severs fosse or ditch like as we read in the most ancient Annales of the English-Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Severus foregirded and fenced Britain with a ditch from sea to sea And other later writers in this wise 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Severus in Britain made and finished a wall of turfes or a rampier from sea to sea William of Malmesburie likewise nameth it a famous and most notorious trench In which very place two hundred yeeres after or much thereabout a wall of stone was set up whereof I am to speake anon Whereas Eutropius hath set downe the length of it to be 35. miles Victor 32. and other Authors 132. I suppose some faults have crept into the numbers For the Iland is not so broad in that place although a man should take the measure of the wall as it stood winding in and out rising also and falling here and there Nay if one should reduce it into Italian miles he should find little above fourescore as Spartianus hath truely reckoned them Some few yeeres after this Munition as it seemes was forlet Howbeit when Alexander Severus the Emperour as we read in Lampridius had once given unto the Captaines and souldiers of the marches those grounds and lands which were won from the enemies so that they should be their proprietie if their heires served as souldiers and that they should never returne to any private men supposing they would goe to the wars more willingly and take the better care if they should defend their owne peculiar possessions Note these words well I pray you for hence may be deduced either a kind of Feudum or the beginning of Feuds After this the Romans marching beyond the wall and building themselves stations within the out-land and barbarian soile fortifying also and furnishing them accordingly enlarged the limits of the Roman Empire againe as farre as to Edenborough Frith Neverthelesse the savage and barbarous people never ceasing to assaile them upon advantages drave them backe now and then as farre as to Severus Trench Dioclesian the Emperour had a provident eye to these limits under whom when as the whole command in Britaine was committed unto Carausius for that he was reputed the fitter man to warre against these warlike nations he did set up againe the fore-fense betweene Dunbritton Frith and Edenborough Frith as I will shew in place convenient The first that ever had blame for neglecting these limits was Constantine the Great for thus writeth Zosimus Whereas the Roman Empire by the providence of Dioclesian was in the utmost marches thereof every where surely fensed with Townes Castles and Burghs and all their military companies made their abode in them it was impossible for the barbarous nations to passe in but they were so met withall at every turne by forces there set to repell them backe Constantine abolishing this munition of Garrisons placed the greater part of the souldiers whom hee had removed from out of the marches in townes that had no need of Garrisons and defence So hee left the marches open to the inrodes of barbarous nations without garrisons and pestered the Cities that were at peace and quiet with a sort of souldiers whereby most of them are now already become desolate and the souldiers themselves addicted to Theatricall sports and pleasures grew by his meanes deboshed To conclude and simply to speake in one word he it was that gave the first cause and beginning that the state of the Empire runneth to wrecke and ruine The Countrey that lay betweene these enclosures or fore-fenses Teodosius father unto Theodosius the Emperour recovered he re-edified and repaired the Cities strengthened the garrison castles and the limits with such watch and ward and fortications yea and when he had recovered the Province restored it to the ancient estate in such wise as that it had a lawfull Governour by it selfe and was afterward in honour of Valentinian the Emperour called VALENTIA Theodosius also his sonne having now by his own vertue attained unto the Imperiall Majestie had a provident care of these limits and gave commandement that the Master of the Offices should yeere by yeer give advice and advertisement unto the Emperour how all things went with the souldiers and in what sort the charge of castles holds and fore-fenses was performed But when the Roman Empire began once to decay apparently and the Picts together with the Scots breaking through the wall of Turfes by Edenborrow-frith cruelly wasted and over-ranne these parts the Roman legion sent to aid the Britans under the leading of Gallio of Ravenna after they had driven away and quite removed the Barbarians being now called backe againe for the defence of France exhorted the Britans these be the very words of Gildas and Bede to make a wall overthwart the Iland between the two seas which might serve for a defence to keep off the enemies and so returned home with great triumph But the Ilanders fall to building of a wall as they were willed not so much with stone as with turfes considering they had no workman to bring up so great a piece of work and so they did set up one good for nothing Which as Gildas saith being made by the rude and unskilfull common multitude without any one to give direction not so much of stone as of turfe served them in no stead As touching the place where this wall was made Bede proceedeth to write in this maner They raised it betweene the two friths or armes of the sea for the space of many miles that where the fense of water failed there by the help of a rampier they might defend the borders from the invasion of enemies And such a fore-fense reaching a great length secured Assyria from the inrodes of forraine nations as Ammianus Marcellinus writeth And the Seres at this day as we read in Osorius fortifie their vales and plaine champion with walls that they might thereby shelter and defend themselves from the violent incursions of the Scythians Of which worke there made saith Bede that is to say of a most broad and high rampier a man may see the expresse and certaine remaines to this day which beginneth almost two miles from a Monastery called Abercurving Eastward at a place named in the Picts language Penvahel in the English tongue Penveltun and reaching Westward endeth neere the Citie Alcluid But the former enemies no sooner perceived that the Roman souldiers were returned but presently sailing thither by water breake through the bounds into the marches kill and slay all before them and whatever stood in their way they went downe with it under foot they over-trample it as if it had bin standing corne ready for harvest Whereupon Embassadours were dispatched againe to Rome making piteous moan and with
made a turfe wall rearing it not so much with stone as with turfes as having no canning Artificer for so great a piece of worke and the same to no use betweene two Friths or Armes of the sea for many miles in length that where the fense of water was wanting there by the helpe of a wall they might defend their borders from the invasion of enemies of which worke that is to say a very broad and high wall a man may see to this day most certaine and evident remaines This wall began as the Scots in these dayes give out at the river Aven that goeth into Edenborrough Forth and having passed over the riveret Carron reacheth unto Dunbritton But Bede as I said erewhile affirmeth that it beginneth in a place called Pen vaell that is in the Picts language as much as The head of the wall in the Britans tongue Pen-Gual in English Penwalton in Scottish Cevall all which names no doubt are derived from Vallum in Latine and he saith That place is almost two miles from Abereurvig or Abercurving And it endeth as the common sort thinke at Kirk-Patricke the native soile as some writeth of Saint Patrick the Irish-mens Apostle neere unto Cluyd according to Bede at Alcluid after Ninius at the Citie Pen Alcloyt which may seeme all one Now this wall is commonly called Grahams dyke either of Graham a warlike Scot whose valour was especially seene when the breach was made through it or else of the hill Grampie at the foot whereof it stood The author of Rota Temporum calleth it the wall of Aber-corneth that is of the mouth of the river Corneth where in Bedes time there was a famous monasterie standing as he hath recorded upon English ground but neere unto that frith or arme of the sea which in those daies severed the lands of the English and the Picts Hard by this wall of turfe what way as the river Carron crosseth this Sheriffdome of Sterling toward the left hand are seene two mounts cast up by mans hand which they call Duni pacis that is Knolles of peace and almost two miles lower there is an ancient round building foure and twentie cubits high and thirteene broad open in the top framed of rough stone without lime having the upper part of everie stone so tenanted into the nether as that the whole worke still rising narrow by a mutuall interlacing and clasping upholdeth it selfe Some call this the Temple of God TERMINUS others Arthurs-Oven who father everie stately and sumptuous thing upon Arthur Others againe Iulius Hoff and suppose it to have been built by Iulius Caesar. But I would think rather that Iulius Agricola built it who fortified this frontier part were it not that Ninius hath already enformed us that it was erected by Carausius for a triumphall Arch. For hee as Ninius writeth built upon the banke of Caron a round house of polished stone erecting a Triumphall Arch in memoriall of a victorie hee ree-dified also the wall and strengthened it with seven Castles In the middest space betweene Duni pacis and this building on the righthand-banke of Carron there is yet to be discerned a confused face of a little ancient Citie where the vulgar people beleeveth there was sometimes a road for ships who call it Camelot by a name that is rife in King Arthurs booke and they contend but all in vaine to have it that Camalodunum which Tacitus mentioneth But it would seeme rather by the name of the river Carron running underneath to have beene CORTA DAMNIORUM which Ptolomee mentioneth in this tract And now take with you that which George Buchanan that excellent Poet wrote of the limit of the Roman Empire at Carron Roma securigeris praetendit maenia Scotis Hîc spe progressus positâ Carronis ad undam Terminus Ausonii signat divertia regni 'Gainst warlike Scots with axes arm'd a mightie frontier wall The Romans rais'd and limit there which TERMINUS they call Neere Carron streame now past all hope more British ground to gaine Markes out the Roman Empires end whence they to turne were faine In this territorie of Sterling on the East side there sheweth it selfe Castle Callendar belonging to the Barons of Levingston and the family of the Barons Fleming dwelleth hard by at Cumbernald which they received at the hands of King Robert Brus for their service valiantly faithfully performed in defence of their country whereby also they attained unto the hereditarie honour to be Chamberlaines of Scotland And even very lately the favour of King James the Sixth hath honoured this house with the title of Earle what time as he created I. Baron Fleming Earle of Wigton In a place neere adjoining standeth Elpheingston which likewise hath his Barons advanced to that dignitie by King James the fourth And where Forth full of his windings and crooked crankes runneth downe with a rolling pace and hath a bridge over him standeth Sterlin commonly called Strivelin and Sterlin Burrough where on the very brow of a steepe rocke there is mounted on high a passing strong Castle of the Kings which King James the sixth hath beautified with new buildings and whereof this long time the Lords of Ereskin have been Captaines unto whom the charge and tuition of the Princes of Scotland during their minoritie hath been otherwhiles committed Whereas some there be that would have the good and lawfull money of England which is called Sterling money to take the name from hence they are much deceived for that denomination came from the Germans of their Easterly dwelling termed by Englishmen Esterlings whom King John of England first sent for to reduce the silver to the due finenesse and puritie and such monies in ancient writing are ever more found by the name of Esterling But concerning Sterlin towne the verses that I. Jonston hath made shall supply all the rest Regia sublimis celsa despectat ab arce Pendula sub biferis maenia structa jugis Regum augusta parens Regum nutricula natis Hinc sibi Regifico nomine tota placet Hospita sed cuivis quovis sub nomine amicus Sive es seu non es hospes an hostis item Pro lucro cedit damnum Discordia tristis Heu quoties procerum sanguine tinxit humum Hoc uno infelix at felix coetera nusquam Laetior aut caelifrons geniusve soli A regall palace stately set beholds from mount aloft Towne wall built hanging on the side of hill with double cost The sacred mother unto Kings of Kings babes eke the nource Hence is it that she prides her selfe in Kings names and no worse But entertaineth every one by name it skils not what A friend or foe friend guest or no she reckneth nought of that In steed of gaine this turnes to losse Besides how oft alas Hath discord foule with Nobles blood stain'd hence both ground and grasse In this alone unhappie she else not nor shall ye finde
creeke it retaineth still the taste of the naturall freshnesse saving his owne water entire and voide of all brackishnesse even as far as to the maine sea COMITATUS DUBLINIENSIS The Countie of Divelin BEyond the CAUCI inhabited the EELANI where now lieth the county of DUBLIN or DIVELIN which on the East side is wholly washed with the Irish sea on the West bounded with the county of Kildare on the South joyning to the little territories of the O-Tooles and O-Birns and those which they tearme the Glynnes and limited Northward with the county of Meth and Nanny a little river the soile thereof bringeth forth corne abundantly and yeeldeth grasse and fodder right plenteously besides it is well stored with all sorts of living creatures that are gotten by hunting and hawking for the table but so destitute for the greatest part of woods that in most places they use a clammy kind of fat turfe or Sea-coale out of England for their fewell In the South part thereof which is lesse inhabited and more uncivill and riseth up here and there with an hilly ridge full enough of woods and under which lye hollow vallies shaded with trees which they call Glynnes every place is sore annoied with the two pernicious and mischievous septs or kinreds of the O-Tooles and the O-Birnes Among these Glynnes appeareth the Bishopricke of Glandilaw but utterly desolate ever since it was annexed to the Archbishopricke of Divelin All this county besides is passing well replenished with inhabitants and townes and for wealthy port and a certain peculiar finenesse and neatnesse that they use surpasseth all other parts of Ireland and is divided into five distinct Baronies namely Rath down New castle Castle-Knoc Cowloc and Bal-rodry which not withstanding I am not able to goe through as I would for that their bounds are unknown to mee First therefore I will runne along the sea coast only and from thence as the courses of the rivers lead me survey the more in-land places for there is no part of this county twenty miles from the shore To beginne then at the South side the first place that sheweth it selfe upon this coast is Wicklo where there standeth over the narrow haven a rocke enclosed within a strong wall in stead of a castle over which as divers other castles besides of this kingdome there can none by authority of Parliament bee set as Constable but an Englishman borne because to the hurt of the State the Irishmen that were Constables had both defended the same badly and also by a certaine connivencie suffered the prisoners to make escapes As touching this haven hearken what Giraldus saith who tearmeth it Winchiligillo There is an haven at Winchiligillo on that side of Ireland where it lieth neerer unto Wales that ordinarily and usually at every ebbe of the sea receiveth waters flowing into it and again at every return of tide dischargeth and voideth the said water which it entertained and when as the sea in the ebbe hath now by the going away of the tide forsaken the creeke yet the river that runneth in by every chinke and winding cranke becommeth bitter and salt with continuall brackishnesse Then from the toppe of an hill New-castle looketh into the sea and seeth the shelves of sand which they call The Grounds lying opposite a great way in length Howbeit betweene them and the shore it is reported to bee seven fathom deepe of water A little higher where the riveret Bray commeth into the sea appeareth Old-Court the possessions of the Walshes of Caryckmain who as they are of ancient stocke and gentry so their family hath shot forth many branches in this tract Next unto it is Powers or Poers-Court belonging in times past as appeareth by the name unto the Poers a large and great castle untill that Tirlough O Toole after hee had revolted and rebelled undermined and overthrew it From Bray mouth the shore for to let in a creeke bendeth and windeth it selfe inward and at the very bent of the elbow lieth a little Island called Saint Benets belonging to the Archbishop of Divelin This creeke or Bay is called Dublin Haven into which Liffy the noblest river of this county out-powreth his streame who albeit his spring head where hee riseth bee but fifteene miles from his mouth yet with so many winding crankes he fetcheth such a compasse that first hee turneth into the South by Saint Patrickes land then Westward afterwards North watering the county of Kildare and at length into the East by Castle-Knoc the Barony in times past of the Tirils whose inheritance by the females was devolved upon other about the yeere 1370. and so by Kilmainam an house in old time of Saint Iohns Knights of Jerusalem now converted to a retiring place of the Lords Deputies This Liffy doubtlesse is mentioned by Ptolomee but through carelesnesse of the transcribers banished out of his owne due place For the river LIBNIUS is set downe in the copies of Ptolomee at the very same latitude or elevation of the Pole in the other part of the Iland where there is no such river at all but let him if it please you by a writ of recovery returne out of exile now to his owne city EBLANA from whence uniustly he hath been for a time alienated and take withall if you think good these verses of Necham as touching this river Visere Castle-Knoc non dedignatur Istum Dublini suscipit unda maris To see and visit Castle-Knock Liffy doth not disdaine At Dublin ready is the sea this streame to entertaine For seated it is seven miles from his mouth which alone fame may celebrate for all the cities of Ireland This is that very city which Ptolomee called EBLANA we DIVELIN the Latine writers Dublinium and Dublinia the Welsh Britans Dinas Dulin the English Saxons in times past Duplin and the Irish Bala-cleigh that is The towne upon Hurdles for men say when it was built the foundation was laid upon Hurdles the place was so fennish and moorish like as Hispalis or Sivill in Spaine which Isidore reporteth to have been so named because it stood in a marish ground upon piles and stakes deepely pitched into the earth For the antiquity of Dublin I finde no certainty but that very ancient it is the authority of Ptolomee perswadeth me to thinke Saxo Grammaticus writeth how it was pitifully rent and dismembred in the Danish warres afterwards it came under the subjection of Edgar King of England which his Charter before mentioned confirmeth wherein hee calleth it the most Noble City of Ireland Then the Norwegians possessed themselves of it Whence in the life of Gryffith Ap Cynan Prince of Wales we read that Harald of Norway when he had subdued the greatest part of Ireland built Develin This may seeme to be that Harald Harfager that is with the faire lockes or tresses who was the first King of Norway whole line in descent goeth thus in the life of Gryffith
the Lord the Pope From the one side and the other were sent certaine messengers to the Court of Rome but whiles King Edward abode in Flanders William Walleis by the common counsell of the Scots came with a great armie to the bridge of Strivelin and gave battle unto John Earle Warren in which battell on both sides many were slaine and many drowned But the Englishmen were discomfited and defeated Upon which exploit all the Scots at once arose and made an insurrection as well Earls as Barons against the King of England And there fell discord betweene the King of England and Roger Bigod Earle Mareschall but soone after they were agreed And Saint Lewis a Frier minor sonne of the King of Sicily and Archbishop of Colein died Also the sonne and heire of the King de Maliagro that is of the Majoricke Ilands instituted the order of the Friers minors at the information of Saint Lewis who said Goe and doe so Item in Ireland Leghlin with other townes was burnt by the Irish of Slemergi Item Calwagh O-Hanlan and Yneg Mac-Mahon are slaine in Urgale MCCXCVIII Pope Boniface the fourth the morrow after the Feast of the Apostles Peter and Paul after all tumults were appeased ordained and confirmed a peace betweene the King of England and the King of France with certaine conditions that after followed Item Edward King of England set forth with an armie againe into Scotland for to subdue the Scots under his dominion Item there were slaine in the same expedition about the feast of Saint Marie Maudlen many thousands of the Scots at Fawkirk The sunne the same day appeared as red as bloud over all Ireland so long as the battell continued at Fawkirke aforesaid Item about the same time the Lord King of England feoffed his Knights in the Earldomes and Baronies of the Scots that were slaine More in Ireland peace and concord was concluded between the Earle of Ulster and Lord John Fitz-Thomas about the feast of the Apostles Simon and Iude. Also on the morrow after the feast of the 7. Saints sleepers the sun-beames were changed almost into the colour of bloud even from the morning so that all men that saw it wondred thereat Moreover there died Sir Thomas Fitz-Maurice Knight and Sir Robert Bigod sometime Lord chiefe Justice of the Bench. Item in the Citie Artha as also in Reathe in the parts of Italie whiles Pope Boniface abode there at the same time there happened so great an Earthquake that towres and palaces fell downe to the ground The Pope also with his Cardinals fled from the Citie much affrighted Item upon the feast of the Epiphany that is Twelfe day there was an earthquake though not so violent in England from Canterburie as farre as to Hampton MCCXCIX Lord Theobald Botiller the younger departed this life in the Manour de Turby the second day before the Ides of May whose corps was conveied toward Weydeney that is Weney in the countie of Limeric the sixth day before the Calends of June Item Edward King of England tooke to wife the Ladie Margaret sister to the noble King of France in the Church of the holy Trinitie in Canterburie about the feast of the holy Trinitie Item the Soldan of Babylon was defeated with a great armie of Saracens by Cassian King of the Tartars MCCXCIX The day after the feast of the Purification of the blessed Virgin Marie there was an infinite number of the Saracens horsemen slaine besides the footmen who were likewise innumerable Item in the same yeere there was a battell or fight of dogges in Burgundie at Genelon castle and the number of the dogges was 3000. and everie one killed another so that no dogge escaped alive but one alone Item the same yeere many Irishmen came to trouble and molest the Lord Theobald Verdon to the Castle of Roch before the feast of the Annuntiation MCCC The Pollard money is forbidden in England and Ireland Also in the Autumne Edward King of England entred Scotland with a power of armed men but at the commandement of Pope Boniface hee was stayed and he sent solemne messengers unto the Court of Rome excusing himself of doing any injurie Item Thomas the Kings sonne of England was the last day of May born at Brotherton of Margaret sister to the King of France Item Edward Earle of Cornwall died without leaving behind an heire of his owne bodie and was enterred in the Abbey of Hales MCCCI. Edward King of England entred into Scotland with an armie unto whom failed over sea Sir John Wogan Justice of Ireland and Sir John Fitz-Thomas Peter Bermingham and many others to aide the King of England Also a great part of the Citie Dublin was burnt together with the Church of Saint Warburga on S. Columbs day at night More Sir Geffrey Genevil espoused the daughter of Sir John Montefort and Sir John Mortimer espoused the daughter and heire of Sir Peter Genevil And the Lord Theobald Verdon espoused the daughter of the Lord Roger Mortimer At the same time the men of Leinster made warre in winter burning the towne of Wykynlo and Rathdon with others but they escaped not unpunished because the more part of their sustenance was burnt up and their cattell lost by depredation and the same Irish had beene utterly almost consumed but that the seditious dissention of certaine Englishmen was an hinderance thereto Item a defeature and slaughter was made by the Toolans upon a small companie assembled of the Brenies in which were slaine almost three hundred robbers Item Walter Power wasted a great part of Mounster burning many ferme houses MCCCII There died the ladie Margaret wife to Sir John Wogan Justice of Ireland the third day before the Ides of April and in the week following Maud Lacy wife to Sir Geffery Genevil died also Edward Botiller recovered the manour de S. Bosco with the pertenances from Sir Richard Ferenges Archbishop of Dublin by a concord made between them in the Kings bench after the feast of S. Hilarie Item the Flemings gave an overthrow at Courteray in Flanders unto the army of the French the Wednesday after the feast of the Translation of S. Thomas wherein were slaine the Earle of Arthois the Earle of Aumarle the Earle of Hue Ralph Neel Constable of France Guy Nevil Mareschal of France the sonne of the Earle of Hennaund Godfrey Brabant with his sonne William Fenys and his son Iames S. Paul lost his hand and fortie Baronets lost their lives that day with Knights Esquires and others sans number Item the tenths of all Ecclesiasticall benefices in England and Ireland were exacted by Boniface the Pope for 3. yeeres as a Subsidie to the Church of Rome against the King of Aragon Also upon the day of the Circumcision Sir Hugh Lacie raised booties from Hugh Vernail In the same yeere Robert Brus then Earle of Carrick espoused the daughter of Sir Richard Bourk Earle of Ulster Item Edward Botiller espoused the daughter of Sir Iohn Fitz-Thomas also
death of the said Justice of Ireland the Lord Roger Darcy with the assent of the Kings Ministers and others of the same land is placed in the office of Justice for the time Also the castles of Ley and Kylmehede are taken by the Irish and burnt in the moneth of April Item Lord Iohn Moris commeth chiefe Justice of Ireland the fifteenth day of May. Also the Irish of Ulster gave a great overthrow unto the English of Urgale wherin were slaine three hundred at the least in the moneth of June Also the said Lord Iohn Moris Justice of Ireland is discharged by the King of England from that office of Justiceship and the Lord Walter Bermingham set in the same office by the foresaid King and a little after the foresaid slaughter committed entreth with Commission into Ireland in the month of June Item unto the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmond the maintenance of peace for a certain time is granted by the King of England Which being granted upon the Vigill of the exaltation of the holy Crosse hee together with his wife and two sonnes take sea at the haven of Yoghal and crosseth over into England where he followeth the law hard and requireth instantly to have justice for the wrongs done unto him by Raulph Ufford late Lord Justice of Ireland above named Item unto the said Earle by commandement and order from the Lord King of England there are granted from his entrance into England twenty shillings a day and so day by day still is allowed for his expences Also the Lord Walter Bermingham Justice of Ireland and the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Kildare rose up in armes against O-Merda and his complices who burnt the Castle of Ley and Kilmehed and they with their forces valiantly set upon and invade him and his complices spoiling killing and burning in so much as the said O-Morda and his complices although at the first they had manfully and resolutely made resistance there with many thousands of the Irish after many wounds and a great slaughter committed were constrained in the end to yeeld and so they submitted to the Kings grace and mercy and betake themselves full and whole unto the said Earles devotion MCCCXLVII The Earle of Kildare with his Barons and Knights goeth unto the King of England in the moneth of May to aide him lying then at the siege of Caleys Also the towne of Caleys was by the inhabitants upon the fourth day of June rendred up into the King of Englands hands Item Walter Bonevile William Calfe William Welesley and many other noble Gentlemen and valiant Knights as well of England as of Ireland died of the sicknesse in Caleys Also Mac-Murgh to wit Donald Mac-Murgh the sonne of Donald Art Mac-Murgh King of Leinster upon the fifth day of June is treacherously slain by his own people More Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Kildare is by the King of England made Knight Also the towne called Monaghan with all the territorie adjoining is by the Irish burnt on the feast day of S. Stephen Martyr Item Dame Joane Fitz-Leoues sometime wife to the Lord Simon Genevile departed this life and is buried in the Covent Church of the Friers Preachers of Trim the second day of Aprill MCCCXLVIII And in the 22. yeere of King Edward the third reigned the first pestilence and most of all in Ireland which had begunne afore in other Countries Item in this yeere Walter Lord Bermingham Lord Justice of Ireland came into England and left Iohn Archer Prior of Kylmainon his Lievtenant in his roome And he returneth againe in the same yeere Justice as before and the King conferred upon the same Walter the Barony of Kenlys which is in Osserie because he led a great army against the Earle of Desmond with Raulfe Ufford as before is said which Barony belonged in times past unto the Lord Eustace Pover who was attainted and hanged at the castle of the Isle MCCCXLIX Lord Walter Bermingham the best Justice of Ireland that ever was gave up his office of Justiceship after whom succeeded the Lord Carew Knight and Baron both MCCCL. And in the 25. yeere of the foresaid King Edward Sir Thomas Rokesby Knight was made Lord Justice of Ireland Item Sir Walter Bermingham Knight Lord Bermingham that right good Justice sometime of Ireland died in the Even of S. Margaret Virgin in England MCCCLI Kenwrick Sherman sometime Maior of the Citie of Dublin died and was buried under the Belfray of the preaching Friers of the same City which Belfray and Steeple himselfe erected and glazed a window at the head of the Quire and caused the roofe of the Church to be made with many more good deeds In the same Covent he departed I say the sixth day of March and at his end he made his Will or Testament amounting to the value of three thousand Marks and bequeathed many good Legacies unto the Priests of the Church both religious and secular that were within twenty miles about the City MCCCLII Sir Robert Savage Knight began in Ulster to build new castles in divers places and upon his owne Manours who while he was a building said unto his sonne and heire Sir Henry Savage let us make strong walls about us lest happily the Irish come and take away our place destroy our kinred and people and so we shall be reproached of all Nations Then answered his sonne where ever there shall be valiant men there is a Castle and Fortresse too according to that saying The sonnes encamped that is to say valiant men are ordained for warre and therefore will I be among such hardy men and so shall I be in a castle and therewith said in his vulgar speech A castle of Bones is better than a castle of Stones Then his father in a fume and chafe gave over his worke and swore an oath that he would never build with stone and morter but keepe a good house and a very great family and retinew of servants about him but he prophesied withall that hereafter his sonnes and posterity should grieve and waile for it which indeed came to passe for the Irish destroyed all that country for default of castles MCCCLV And in the thirty yeere of the same King Sir Thomas Rokesby Knight went out of his office of Justice the sixe and twenty day of July after whom succeeded Moris Fitz-Thomas Earle of Desmund and continued in the office untill his death Item on the day of Saint Pauls conversion the same Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas died Justice of Ireland in the castle of Dublin not without great sorrow of his friends and kinsfolke and no lesse feare and trembling of all other Irish that loved peace First he was buried in the quire of the preaching Friers of Dublin and at last enterred in the Covent Church of the Friers Preachers of Traly This man was a righteous Justicer in that hee stucke not to hang up those of his owne blood for theft and rapine and misdemeanours even as soone as strangers
per ultima serpit Mersit rege satos occidit orbis honos Whiles Normans after victories of Noble Frenchmen won Make saile for England God himselfe withstood them all anon For as the rough and surging waves they cut with brittle barke He brought upon the troubled sea thicke fogges and weather darke Whiles sailers then in coasts unknowne were driven and hal'd astray Upon blind rockes their ships were split and quickly cast away Thus when salt water entred in and upmost hatches caught Drown'd was that royall progeny worlds honour came to naught More Westward certaine Ilands affront France yet under the Crowne of England and first of all upon the coast of Normandy or the Lexobii whom our Britans or Welshmen tearme Lettaw as one would say Littorales that is Coast-men lieth Alderney which in the Records is named Aurney Aureney and Aurigney so that it may seeme to be that ARICA which in Antonine according to the King of Spaines copie is reckoned among the Isles of the British sea Others hold it to be that EBODIA or EVODIA whereof Paulus Diaconus only hath made mention who had small skill of this coast which he placeth thirty miles from the shore of Seine and telleth of a rumbling roaring noise of waters falling into a gulfe or Charybdis that is heard a far off This Alderney lieth in the chiefe trade of all shipping passing from the Easterne parts to the West three leagues distant from the coast of Normandy thirty from the nearest part of England extended from South East to the North West and containeth about eight miles in circuit the South shore consisting of high cliffes The aire is healthfull the soile sufficiently rich full of fresh pastures and corn-fields yet the inhabitants poore through a custome of parting their lands into small parcells by Gavelkind The towne is situate well neere in the midst of the Isle having a parish Church and about 80. families with an harbour called Crabbic some mile off On the East side there is an ancient fort and a dwelling house built at the charge of the Chamberlans for the fee farme of the Isle was granted by Queene Elizabeth to G. Chamberlane son to Sir Leonard Chamberlane of Shirburne in Oxfordshire when he recovered it from the French And under this fort the sand with violent drifts from the Northwest overlaied the land so that now it serveth thereabout most for conies I know not whether I were best to relate of a Giants tooth one of the grinders which was found in this Iland of that bigge size that it equalled a mans fist seeing Saint Augustine writeth of one that himselfe saw so bigge that if it were cut in small peeces to the proportion of our teeth it seemed it might have made an hundred of them Hence Westward there runneth out a craggy ridge of rockes which have their severall eddies and therefore feared of the Mariners who tearme them Casquettes Out of one of the which properly named Casquet there gusheth a most sweet spring of fresh water to the great comfort of the Iland-fishermen beating up and downe hereabout At these to remember incidently that the memorie of a well-deserving Patriot may not perish the fleet which Iohn Philipot Citizen of London set forth and manned at his owne private charges had a glorious victorie over a rabble of Pirates who impeached all trafficke taking their Captaine and fifteene Spanish ships that consorted with them Which worthy man also maintained 1000. souldiers at his owne pay for defence of the Realme against the French who sore infested the Southern coast in the beginning of the reigne of King Richard the second to omit his great loanes to the King and other good and laudable offices to his country Under these lieth Southward CAESAREA whereof Antonine hath written scarce twelve miles distant from Alderney which name the Frenchmen now have clipped so short as the Spaniards have CAESAR AUGUSTA in Spaine for they call it Gearzey like as Cherburgh for Caesarisburgus and Saragose for Caesar augusta Gregorius Turonensis calleth it the Iland of the sea that lieth to the City Constantia where hee reporteth how Pratextatus Bishop of Roan was confined hither like as Papirius Massonius tearmeth it the Isle of the coast of Constantia because it butteth just upon the ancient city Constantia which may seeme in Ammianus to be named CASTRA CONSTANTIA and in the foregoing ages Moritonium For Robert Montensis writeth thus Comes Moritonii id est Constantiarum if that be not a glosse of the transcriber For Moritonium which now is Mortaigne is farther distant from the sea This Isle is thirty miles or thereabout in compasse fenced with rockes and shelves which are shallow places dangerous for such as saile that way The ground is fertile enough bearing plenty of sundry sorts of corne and breeding cattaile of divers kindes but sheepe especially and most of them with faire heads carrying foure hornes a peece The aire is very wholsome and healthy not subject to any other diseases but agues in September which thereupon they tearme Settembers so that there is no being for Physicians here And for that it is scarce of fuell in steed of fire wood they use a kind of Sea weed which they call Uraic deemed to be that Fucus marinus which Plinie mentioneth and groweth every where about in craggy Ilands and on rockes most plenteously This being dried at the fire serveth for to burne with the ashes whereof as it were with Marle and the fat of the earth they dung commonly their fields and fallows and thereby make them very battle fruitfull Neither are they permitted to gather it but in the spring and summer season and then upon certaine daies appointed by the Magistrate At which time with a certaine festivall mirth they repaire in numbers from all parts to the shore with their carres as also to the rockes neere unto them they speed themselves a vie with their fisher-boats But whatsoever of this kind the sea casteth up the poore may gather for their owne use The inward parts of the Isle gently rise and swell up with pretty hills under which lye pleasant vallies watered with riverets and planted with fruitfull trees but apple trees especially of which they make a kind of drinke Well stored it is with farme places and villages having within it twelve Parishes and furnished on every side with creekes and commodious rodes among which the safest is that in the South part of the Isle betweene the two little townes Saint Hilaries and Saint Albans which harbour hath also a little Iland belonging to it fortified with a garison having no way of accesse unto it wherein by report Saint Hilarie Bishop of Poictiers after he had beene banished hither was enterred For the towne dedicated to his name just over against this Iland is accounted the principall towne both in regard of the mercate and trafficke there as also of the Court of Justice which is
〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we at this day Yorke The British History reporteth that it tooke name of King Ebraâ—c the Founder yet give mee leave to deeme conjecturally without the prejudice to others that the name EB-URACUM is derived from nothing else but from the River Vre so that it soundeth as much as by Vre or along the side of Vre for even so the EBUROVICES in France were seated by the River Eure neere unto Eureux in Normandy Semblably the EB-URONES in the Netherlands neere unto the river Oure in the Dioecese of Lhuick and EB-LANA in Ireland standeth hard by the river Lefny This is the second City of England the fairest in all this Country and a singular safeguard and ornament both to all the North parts A pleasant place large and stately well fortified beautifully adorned as well with private as pulique buildings rich populous and to the greater dignity thereto it hath an Archiepiscopall See Ure which now is called Ouse flowing with a gentle streame from the North part Southward cutteth it as I said in twaine and divideth it as it were into two Cities which are conjoyned with a stone Bridge having the mightiest Arch one of them that ever I saw The West part nothing so populous is compassed in with a very faire Wall and the River together fouresquarewise and giveth entrance to those that come thither at one onely Gate named Mikel Barre as one would say The great Gate From which a long street and a broade reacheth to the very Bridge and the same streete beset with proper houses having gardens and orchards planted on the backeside on either hand and behinde them fields even hard to the Walles for exercise and disports In the South angle whereof which they and the River make betweene them I saw a Mount raised as it seemeth for some Castle to be built upon it called The old Bale which William Melton Archbishop as wee reade in the Archbishops lives strongly enclosed first with thicke planckes eighteene foote long afterward with a stone wall yet there is nothing of all that now to be seene The East side wherein the houses stand very thicke and the streetes be narrower in forme resembleth as it were a lentill and is fortified also with very strong walles and on the South-East defended with the deepe chanell of Fosse a muddy River which entring into the heart of the City by a blinde way hath a Bridge over it with houses standing upon it so close ranged one by another that any man would judge it to bee not a Bridge but a continued streete and so a little lower runneth into Ouse where at their confluence and meeting together right over against the Mount that I spake of King William the Conquerour in a very convenient place raised a most strong Castle to awe the Citizens Upon which time hath now a great while without impeachment wrought his will ever since that Englishmen fell to neglect strong Holds as receptacles for those whose hearts would not serve to fight in open field On this side also toward the North-East standeth the Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Peter an excellent faire Fabrique and a stately neere unto which without the Walles of the City but yet enclosed within walles and by the River flourished a renowned Abbay called Saint Maries which Alan the Third Earle of Little Britaine in Armorica and of Richmund built and endowed with rich livings but now it is converted into the Princes house and is commonly called The Manour Whence I should fetch the originall of Yorke but from the Romanes I cannot tell seeing the Britans before the Romanes comming had no other Townes than woods fensed with trenches and rampire as Caesar and Strabo unreprovable Authors doe testifie To say nothing therefore of King Ebrauk whom some men both curious and credulous as it should seeme have imagined out of the name of Eboracum for so is Yorke in Latine termed to have beene the Founder thereof most certaine it is that the Sixth Legion Victrix which Hadrian there Emperour brought out of Germany over into Britaine was placed heere in Garison And that it was a Colony of the Romanes it appeareth both by the authority of Ptolomee and Antonine and also by an ancient Inscription which I saw in a certaine Aldermans house there in these words M. VEREC DIOGENES IIIII I VIR COL EBOR. IDEMQ MORT CIVES BITURIX HAEC SIBI VIVUS FECIT As also by a peece of money coined by the Emperour Severius in the reverse whereof we reade COL EBORACUM LEG VI. VICTRIX But how it is that Victor in his History of the Caesars hath called Yorke Municipium or free towne of Britaine being as it was a Colony I require farther time to deliberate thereupon unlesse it were that the inhabitants of Yorke like as sometime the Praenestines did choose rather from a Colony to bee brought unto the state of a free-Burgh For Colonies having as Agellius writeth lawes customes and rights at the will of the people of Rome and not at their owne pleasure seemed more obnoxious and their condition not so free whereas free Cities such as in Latin are named Municipia used rights Lawes and orders of their owne and the Citizens or Burgesses thereof were partakers with the people of Rome in their honourable Offices onely and bound of necessity to nothing else No mervaile therefore if Colonies were changed into Free Burroughs But to what end stand I upon this point This difference of the name is not in the story of the Emperours so exactly observed but that one and the selfe same place is called both a Colony and a Municipium or Free City Howbeit out of that peece of money I dare not constantly affirme that Severus first conducted and planted this Colony seeing that Ptolomee and Antonine himselfe writeth it was the seat of the sixth Legion in the Antonines time But we reade that Severus had his Palace in this City and heere at the houre of death gave up his last breath with these words I entred upon a state every where troublesome and I leave it peaceable even to the Britans His body was carried forth here to the funerall fire by the souldiers after the military fashion and committed to the flames honoured with Justs and Turneaments of his souldiers and his owne sonnes in a place beneath this City Westward neere to Ackham where is to be seene a great Mount of earth raised up which as Raulph Niger hath recorded was in his time of Severus called Sivers His ashes being bestowed in a little golden pot or vessell of the Porphyrite stone were carried to Rome and shrined there in the Monument of the Antonines At which time there was in this City the Temple of Goddesse Bellona For Spartianus speaking of Severus and this very City saith thus When Severus returned and came into the City purposing to offer sacrifice he was led first of all to the