Kirkby-Thore in the same County MS. This County as to Pedigrees and the Intermarriages of greater Families has been well consider'd and illustrated by Sir Daniel Fleming a great Encourager and Promoter of Aniquities MS. WILTSHIRE STone-henge restor'd written by Sir Inigo Jones and publish'd by Mr. Webb 1658. Answer to Sir Inigo Jones by Dr. Charleton Vindication of Sir Inigo Jones by his Son in Law Mr. Webb Architect to King Charles 1. Publish'd 1665. Sammes of Stonehenge a separate Discourse in his Britannia A short Treatise upon the same Subject was written by Mr. John Gibbons MS. Wilton-garden describ'd in 22 Copper Cutts in folio At that time it had the reputation of one of the finest gardens in Europe Mr. Tanner of Queen's College in Oxford has made large Collections in order to the Antiquities of this County See Wiltshire pag. 107. WORCESTERSHIRE WOrcester's Eulogie or a grateful acknowledgment of her Benefactors by J. T. Master of Arts a Poem 1638. A large description of Worcestershire MS. is now in the hands of Thomas Abingdon Esquire It was written by his Grandfather an able and industrious Antiquary YORKSHIRE AND RICHMONDSHIRE A Catalogue of all the Bailiffs Mayors and Sheriffs of the City of York from the time of Edw. 1. to the year 1664. by ..... Hillyard Recorder of the same City York 1665. Some Observations upon the Ruins of a Roman-Wall and multangular Tower in York with the draught by Martin Lister Esquire Phil. Transact Num. 145. Jul. 10. 1683. The Antiquities of the City of York by Sir Thomas Widdrington MS. The original Manuscript is now in the hands of Thomas Fairfax of Menston Esq See Yorkshire pag. 734. Dr. Jonston of Pontefract hath made large collections in order to the Antiquities of this whole County which he is now digesting and fitting for the Publick The English Spaw-Fountain in the Forest of Knaresburrow by Edw. Dean M. D. 1626. Another Book upon the same Subject by Mich. Stanhop 1632. A Yorkshire Dialogue in its pure natural Dialect 1683. WALES GIraldus Cambrensis's Itinerary of Wales A Manuscript of David Morganius mention'd by Vossius History of Penbrokeshire written by Geo. Owen Esq now in the hands of Howel Vaughan of Hengwrt Esquire TREATISES relating to SCOTLAND extracted out of Sir Robert Sibalds's Materials for the Scotch-Atlas THeatrum Scotiae by Robert Gordon in Latin Description of Edenburgh by his Son A description of Scotland and the Isles adjacent by Petruccius Ubaldinus in Italian King James 5th's Voyage round his Kingdom with the Hebrides and Orcades in French The Original Manners c. of the Scots by John Lesly Heroës Scoti by John Jonston A Catalogue of the Scotch Nobility in Scotch Andreae Melvini Gathelus Topographia Scotiae by the same hand An account of Rona and Hirta by Sir Geo. Makenzy Metals and Minerals in Scotland by D. Borthwick An account of Cathness by Mr. William Dundass An account of Sutherland by the same hand Observations upon Cathness by the same hand An account of Hadington deliver'd by the Magistrates of the place Description of part of the Praefecture of Aberdeen An account of a strange Tide in the river of Forth by the Reverend Mr. Wright Vindication of Buchanan against Camden per D. H.MS Collections relating to St. Andrews MS. The Antiquity of the Scotch Nation MS. Description of the High-lands of Scotland MS. Vindication of Scotland against Camden by W. Drummond of Hawthornden MS. An account of the metals found in Scotland by Mr. Atkinson MS. A description of Scotland and of the Northern and Western Isles MS. Scotia illustrata by Sir Rob. Sibalds Theatrum Scotiae or a description of the most considerable Cities and Gentlemen's Seats in the Kingdom of Scotland by J. Slezer Barclay's Treatise of Aberdeen-spaw Vid. Theatrum Scotiae pag. 30. IRELAND SIR James Ware hath given us an exact List of the Irish Authors in his Scriptores Hiberniae edit Dublin 1639. ISLANDS A Descripâ—ion of the Isle of Man in Dan. King's Antiquities of Cheshire An accurate Description of the same Island MS. out of which the Additional Account to the Isle of Man was extracted for me by Mr. Strahan of Baliol-College in Oxford A Description of Thule by Sir Robert Sibalds A Description of the Orcades by Mr. Wallace An Account of the Orcades by Matthew Mackaile A Discovery of the Tides in these Islands by the same Hand Description of Hethland and of the Fishery there by Jo. Smith A Table of Hethland with a description of it Observations upon the Aebudae An accurate Description of Jersey by Mr Fall 4o. ¶ Besides these there are great Numbers of Lieger-Books Charters Registers c. relating to the Religious Houses preserv'd in the Libraries of Sir Thomas Bodley Sir John Cotton c. and in the hands of several private Gentlemen a Catalogue whereof with the Proprietors is given by Mr. Tanner in his Notitia Monastica Antoninuss ITINERARY THROUGH BRITAIN As it is compar'd by Mr. BURTON with the several Editions Iter Britanniarum à Gessoriaco de Galliis Ritupis in Portu Britanniarum Stadia numero CCCCL ITER I. A Limite id est à Vallo Praetorium usque M. P. CLVI Editio Aldina Suritana Simleriana Ab Remaenio A Bremenio Corstopilum m. p. xx Bramenio Corstopitum  Vindomoram m. p. ix   Vinoviam m. p. xix Viconia  Cataractonem m. p. xxii   Isurium m. p. xxiv  Ebur 17. Eboracum Leg. vi Victrix m p. xvii Ebur 17.  Derventionem m. p. vii   Delgovitiam m. p. xiii   Praetorium m. p. xxv  ITER II. Editio Aldina Suritana Simleriana  Iter à Vallo ad   Portum Ritupas   M. P. CCCCLXXXI sic  Ablato Tâ—lg A Blato Bulgio Castra Exploratorum m. p. * xii Ablat  * 10 15. Lugu-vall Luguvallum m. p. xii Lugu-vall  Voredam m. p. xiiii   Brovonacim m. p. xiii   Verterim m. p. * xiii * al. 20.  Lavatrim m. p. xiiii  * 16. Cataractonem m. p. * xiii * 16. Isuriam Isurium m. p. xxiiii Isuriam Eburacum 18. Eboracum m. p. xvii Eburacum 18. Cacaria Calcariam m. p. ix  Cambodun Camulodunum m. p. xx Cambodun  Mamucium m. p. xviii Mammuc Manuc  Condate m. p. xviii  * Vici Devam Leg. xx * Victrix m. p. xx * Leg. xxiii ci  Bovium m. p. x.   Mediolanum m. p. xx   Rutunium m. p. xii  Urio Con. Viroconium m. p. xi Urio Con.  Uxaconam m. p. xi  Penno-Cruc Pennocrucium m. p. xii Penno-Cruc  Etocetum m. p. xii  Mandues-Sed * 16. Manduessedum m.p. * vi ††16 Mandues-Sed  Venonim m. p. xii  Bennavent 16. Bennavennam m. p. xvii Bennavent Ban.  Lactodorum m. p. xii Lactorod  Magiovintum m. p. * xvii Magint * 12.  Durocobrivim m. p. xii Duro-Cobr Vero-Lam Verolamium m. p. xii Vero-Lam
by inheritance descended from them to the Powletts Not far from whence is Witham where K. Hen. 3. built a Nunnery 35 Which afterwards was the first house and as it were another to the Carthusians or Charter-house-Monks in England as Hinton not far off near Farley-castle was the second And now Frome encreas'd by some little rivers out of this wood joyns it self to the noble river Avon which with an oblique course presently runs to that ancient City â—e from the baths call'd by Ptolemy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 i.e. Hot waters and by Antoninus Waters of the Sun â—ae solis by the Britains Yr ennaint Twymin as also Caer Badon and by the Saxons Baþancester hat Baþan and for the concourse of sick people Å¿ The ancient Annals call it Ace-mannes-ceaster and Florence of Worcester Aâ—amanni civitas Ackmanchester as much as a City of Valetudinarians â—â—â—biâ— Stephanus calls it Badiza we at this day Bathe and in Latin Bathonia It lies low in a plain not very large and is as it were fortify'd on every side with hills of an equal height which send down many springs to the great advantage of the citizens 〈◊〉 baths In the city it self arise three t The heat of these is thought by some to be owing to the Sun which seems to be an unaccountable opinion as that of others referring it to the agitation of the wind The learned Selden in his notes upon Drayton affirms it to be owing to the passage through metallick bituminous and sulphureous veins or rather a real subterranean fire See pag. 52. hot springs of a blewish and sea-colour which exhale a thin sort of mist and something of â—aphitis an ill savour proceeding from corrupt water mix'd with earth and brimstone for the water it self has a sulphur and bituminous matter incorporated with it They are an effectual remedy to such bodies as by reason of ill humours are dull and heavy for by virtue of their heat they cause sweating and by that means the career of the humour is curb'd But it is not at all hours they are wholsom for from eight in the morning till three in the afternoon they are extream hot and boyl up violently by which they are mudded and throw up a filthy sort of stuff from the bottom so that at these times they are shut up nor does any one go into them till by their sluces they have eas'd themselves of that stuff and are purg'd n Of these three that which is call'd The Cross-bath because of a Cross formerly erected in the middle of it is very easie and moderately warm Upon the side of it are 12 stone-seats o and it is enclos'd with a wall The second scarce 200 foot distant is much hotter whereupon t is call'd Whotbath or Hot-bath Near these two is a Hospital built by Reginald Bishop of Bathe to relieve the necessities of sick people and in the midâ—le are two streets towards the west-part of the City The third which is largest is in the very heart of the City and is call'd the King 's or Royal bath it is near the Cathedral Church and enclos'd also with a wall It is accommodated with 32 seats arch'd over wherein the men and women sit apart and both of them when they go into the water put on linnen drawers 36 And have their guides Where now the Cathedral Church stands is formerly reported to have been a Temple dedicated to Minerva Temple of Minerva 'T is without all doubt that Solinus Polyhistor means these baths when he says In Britain there are hot springs richly accommodated with all conveniencies for the service of mankind their tutelar Deity is Minerva in whose Temple those perpetual fires never turn to embers but when they go out are converted into round pieces of hard stone Notwithstanding which Athenaeus affirms that all hot baths naturally springing out of the earth u 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Diogeniano Cent. 5. are sacred to Hercules and indeed amongst other old monuments almost quite defac'd by age there is here upon the walls something of an ancient image of Hercules holding a Serpent in his hand But rather than any difference should arise upon this we are willing to grant that baths were dedicated both to Hercules and Minerva For the Greeks have told us that Minerva was the first who furnish'd Hercules with a bath after he had gone through his labours I am content if thus much may be allow'd me upon Solinus's authority that since Minerva was the tutelar Goddess of those springs this must be the same city which the Britains call'd Caer Palladdur Caer-Palladur that is in latin Urbs Palladiae aquae or the city of Pallas's water For the thing name and meaning do exactly agree The finding of these springs is by our own traditions referr'd to a British King call'd Bleyden w The word in British is doyth or doeth Cloyth i.e. Bleyden the southsayer with what show of truth I leave to others However Britains very skilful in Art-Magick Pliny assures us that this Art-Magick was in such wonderful esteem among the Britains that they seem even to have given it to the Persians but as to these baths I dare not attribute their original to that art Some of our own nation too supinely affirm that Julius Caesar was the inventor But I cannot but think that it was late before the Romans came to know them since Solinus is the first that makes any mention of them The Saxons indeed about the 44th year after their landing in Britain by a breach of Articles renewing the war laid siege to this city p but being surpriz'd by the warlike Arthur they betook themselves to Badon-hill Badon-hill where tho' in a desperate condition they fought it out and were slain in great numbers This seems to be the same hill with that we now call Bannesdown hanging over a little village near the city nam'd Bathstone and showing at this day it's bulwarks and a rampire I know there are some who seek for it in Yorkshire but let Gildas himself restore it to this place For in an old Manuscript-Copy of him in the Cambridge-Library where he treats of the victory of Aurelius Ambrosius he says To the year of Badon-hill siege which is not far from the mouth of Severn But if this will not convince them let them understand farther that the adjoyning vale lying along the river Avon for a great way together is call'd in British Nant-Badon i.e. the vale of Badon and where to seek Badon-hill but near Badon-valley I cannot tell For a long time after this the Saxons frighted from making any more attempts upon this City left it quiet to the Britains But in the year of Christ 577. after x His right name is Ceawlin and so our best Historians call him Cewalin King of the West-Saxons had defeated the Britains at Deorham 37 In Glocestershire
had Those of this castle tell many stories of David King of Scotland a prisoner here and of Roger Mortimer Earl of March taken by means of a passage under ground and afterwards hang'd for betraying his Country to the Scots for money and for other mischiefs out of an extravagant and vast imagination design'd by him In the first court of this castle we still go down a great many steps with candle-light into a vault under-ground and rooms cut and made out of the very stone in the walls whereof the story of Christ's passion and other things are engraven by David the second King of Scotland as they say who was kept prisoner there In the upper part of the castle which stands very high upon the rock I likewise went down many stairs into another vault under-ground which they call Mortimer's hole Mortimer's Hole because Roger Mortimer absconded in it being afraid of himself out of a consciousness of his own guilt As for position this place is 53 degrees in Latitude and 22 degrees 14 minutes in Longitude c From hence the Trent runs gently by Holme nam'd from the Lords Holme Pierpount Pierpount a noble and ancient family of whom Robert de Petrae Ponte or Pierpount was summon'd to sit among the Barons in Parliament by Edward the third Then to f In Domesday Shelford Shelford 3 Where Ralph Hanselin founded a Priory and the Lords Randolphs had a mansion but now the seat of c. The Barony of Shelford the seat of the famous family of the Stanhops Knights d whose state and grandeur in these parts is great and their name eminent 4 Since they match'd with an heir of Mallovel But it was formerly the Barony of Ralph Hanselin by whose daughters it came to the Bardolphs and Everinghams Hence it goes to Stoke Stoke a small village but remarkable for no small slaughter Battel of Stoke 1447. here John De la pole Earl of Lincoln who was design'd for the Crown by Richard the third when he saw himself excluded from the throne by Henry the seventh rebelliously fought for a counterfeit Prince against his lawful King and after a stout defence was cut off with his whole party Not far from hence 5 Is Thurgarton where Sir Ralph D'eincourt founded a Priory and somewhat higher Southwell c. stands Southwell Southwell a Collegiate-Church of Prebendaries dedicated to the Virgin Mary not very splendid I must confess but strong ancient and famous Paulinus the first Arch-Bishop of York built it as they write after he had baptiz'd the people of this Country in the river Trent From that time the Arch-Bishops of York have had a large Palace here and three Parks adjoyning well-stor'd with Deer That this is that city which Bede calls Tio vul-Fingacester Tio-vul-Fingacester I the rather believe because those things which he relates of Paulinus's baptizing in the Trent near Tio-vul-Fingacester are always said to have been done here by the private history of this Church e Hence from the east the Snite a small river runs into the Trent which is but shallow and washes Langer Lâ—nger famous for its Lords the Tibetots or Tiptofts Tâ—pâ—â—fâ—s f who were afterwards Earls of Worcester and Wiverton Wâ—â—â—â—tâ—â— which from Heriz a famous man in these parts formerly went by the Bretts and Caltosts to the Chaworths who take their name from the Cadurci in France Châ—â—â—â—â— or 〈◊〉 Câ—aâ—â—â—â— Qâ—â—â—â— and their pedigree from the Lords de Walchervill Now the Trent divides it self 6 Near Averham or Aram an ancient habitation of the Suttons Gentlemen of respective worth and runs under Newark Newaâ—k a pretty large town so call'd as if one should say A new work from the new castle very pleasant and curiously built as g Dr. Thoroton is of opinion that he only repair'd it See p. 197. Hist Nottinghamshire Henry of Huntingdon describes it by Alexander that munificent Bishop of Lincoln Who to use the words of an old historian being of a very liberal and gentile temper built this and another castle at vast expence And because buildings of this nature seem'd less agreeable to the character of a Bishop to extinguish the envy of them and to expiate as it were for that offence he built an equal number of Monasteries and fill'd them with religious societies However the extravagant profuseness of this military Bishop was soon pursu'd with condign punishment For King Stephen Vide p â— who had no better means to establish the sinking state of his kingdom than by possessing himself of all the fortify'd places brought the Bishop to that pinch by imprisonment and famine that he was forc'd to deliver up into his hands both this castle and that other at Sleford There is no other memorable accident in this place but that King John ended the tedious course of an uneasie life here 7 And King Edward the sixth incorporated it of one Alderman and twelve Assistants g From hence the river uniting again flows directly to the northward by many villages but has nothing remarkable before it comes to Littleborrough Littleborrougâ— a small town and so exactly answerable to the name where as there is at this day a ferry much us'd so was there formerly that famous station or abode which Antoninus twice mentions variously read in some copies Agelocum and in others Segelocum Agelâ—cuâ— or Segelâ—cum Formerly I sought for this place in vain hereabouts but now I verily believe I have found it both because it stands by the military way and also because the marks of an old wall are still discernable in the neighbouring field where many coins of the Roman Emperours are daily found by the plow-men which are call'd Swines penies Swâ—nes-penies by the Country people because they are oftnest discover'd by the grubbing of the Swine there They also imagine according to their poor sense of things that their forefathers enclos'd this field with a stone-wall to keep the water from overflowing it in the winter h In the west part of this County call'd the Sand where the Erwash a small river runs toward the Trent we see Strelley Strelley h Otherwise call'd Stradlegh and Straley heretofore Strellegh which hath given a name and seat to the Strellies Knights commonly call'd Sturly one of the most ancient and famous families of this County More inward lyes Shirewood Shirewooâ— which some interpret a clear wood others a famous wood formerly a close shade with the boughs of trees so entangl'd in one another that a single person could hardly walk in the paths of it At present it is much thinner yet it still feeds an infinite number of Deer and branchy-headed Staggs and has some towns in it whereof Mansfield Mansfeld is the chief a very plentiful market the name of which is made use of for an argument by some 8 Who delineate the pedigree
winter what they lost in summer they were now worsted alike in both seasons In all these actions Agricola would never rob another of the honor due to him but let him be Captain or whatever other Officer he would faithfully attest the bravery of the Action Some have counted him too sharp and bitter in his reproofs and it must be granted that as he was affable and courteous to the good so was he morose to the bad But then anger never continued longer than the reprehension lasted If he pass'd a thing by without notice there was no fear upon that account for he thought it more excusable even to commit the offence than to hate an offender The fourth summer was spent in setling what he had already overrun and if the valor of his armies and the glory of the Roman Empire could have permitted it they needed not have sought any other boundary in Britain Glota and Bodotria the two arms of opposite seas which shoot into the Country are parted by a narrow strip of land only which was then secured by our garisons so that the Romans were masters of all on this side having pent up the enemy as it were within another Island In the fifth year of this war Agricola first took shipping and sail'd over to certain nations never before known of which after many prosperous encounters he subdued and then put garisons into those parts of Britain which lie towards Ireland more out of hopes than out of fear For Ireland Ireland being situated between Spain and Britain and lying convenient for the French Sea would with many other advantages have united those mighty members of the Empire As for its bigness 't is less than Britain but larger than the Islands of our sea The soil the temperature of the air the nature and manners of the people are not much different from the British The ports and havens are better known by reason of more trade and commerce Agricola had formerly received a Prince of that country driven out by civil wars and under pretence of friendship had kept him for a fair occasion I have often heard him say that with one legion and some few auxiliaries Ireland might be conquer'd and retain'd and that it would be of great import and consequence to our interest in Britain if the Roman forces were on all hands and liberty as it were banish'd out of sight About this time dy'd Titus who for these exploits of Agricola was saluted Emperor fifteen times as Xiphilin tells us and as 't is manifest from an old coin Under Domitian Agricola in the sixth year of his Lieutenancy being apprehensive of a general insurrection * Ampla Civitas al. Amplas civitates in those large cities and remote countries beyond Bodotria and that his march would be made very troublesome by the enemy sent out a fleet that summer to try the creeks and havens of the large country beyond it Thus Agricola was the first that ever seconded his land army by a fleet and what was very great that brought war upon them both by land and sea Oftentimes it happen'd that the troopers the foot soldiers and the seamen would meet and make merry together in the same camp each one magnifying his own feats and adventures and making their vaunts and comparisons souldier-like the one of the woods and high mountains the other of the dangers of the waves and tempests The one valuing himself upon the land and the enemy the other upon the sea it self subdued by him The Britains as we understood by the prisoners were amaz'd and daunted at the sight of this fleet considering that if once their sea was discover'd and navigable all retreat and refuge would be cut off Whereupon the Caledonians with great preparation but as 't is always with things unknown not so great as reported broke out into open war and assaulted our castles that by being aggressors they might discourage us so that some poor spirits on our side under shew of prudence advis'd Agricola to retire on this side Bodotria and rather make a voluntary retreat than a forc'd one In the mean time we had advice that the enemy's design was to divide and attack us in many places at once Whereupon lest he should lie under disadvantage by the number of the enemy and their knowledge of the country he likewise divided his army into three bodies They having intelligence of this forthwith took another course and in one entire body fell all upon our ninth legion as being the weakest and between sleep and fear in the night cut off our centinels and broke in among them Thus the battle began in the very camp when Agricola having found out the enemies march by his scouts traces them and sends in the lightest of his horse and foot upon their backs which were seconded with the huzza's of the whole army and the appearance of their colours towards break of day This danger on all sides terrifi'd the Britains and the Romans taking heart at it and knowing there could be no danger fought now for honour They gave them a fresh onset and after a sharp dispute at the very gates put them to the rout while both our armies were contending the one to come up timely with their assistance the other not to seem to need it If the fens and woods had not protected the enemy in this flight they had been utterly conquered Upon this constancy and the news of our victory the whole army grew so resolute that they thought nothing invincible to them they clamour'd to be led into Caledonia and to fight their way through to the remotest part of Britain Thus they who were but just now requiring wary conduct are forward and blustering when the event is seen And this is always the case in war every one claims a share in that which is successful but misfortunes are always imputed to one single person However the Britains attributing all this to good luck and the conduct of the General and not to any valour in them were not at all dejected but went on to arm their young men to convey their wives and children into safe places and by assemblies and Religious rites to establish a confederacy among them And thus both armies left the field in great heat This summer a Cohort of Usipians rais'd in Germany and sent over into Britain undertook a very strange and memorable adventure Having kill'd their Captain and some Soldiers that were dispers'd among them to shew them how to exercise they fled and embark'd themselves in three vessels compelling the masters to carry them off but only one of them doing his duty the other two were slain upon suspicion and this strange kind of voyage the fact being not yet nois'd was much admir'd Afterward being toss'd up and down and falling upon some Britains that oppos'd them in their own defence often victorious and sometimes baffled they came to that pinch for want of provision at long run
shall add a sort of grain sown plentifully towards the further end of this County that is Avena nuda Ger. J. B. C. B. Park Naked Oats called hereabouts Pillis or Pill-corn from its being naturally as it were pilled or denuded of the husk wherewith the common Oat is covered It is much esteemed and of equal price with Wheat DEVONSHIRE THE hither Country of the Danmonii which I have mention'd is now commonly call'd Denshire by the Cornish-Britains Deunan by the Welsh-Britains Duffneynt that is deep vallies because they live every where here lowly in the bottoms by the English Saxons a The true Saxon name is Defnascyre for the Saxons never set h after c that being a way of writing which we owe entirely to the Normans Deuenschire from whence comes the latin Devonia and that contracted name us'd by the vulgar b I think in most parts of England it is still commonly call'd Devonshire without such a contraction Denshire and not from the Danes as some Pretenders do stifflly hold This Country as it shoots out on both sides with greater breadth than Cornwall so it has more commodious harbours on each side of it nor is it less rich in tinn mines a especially towards the west-part being enamel'd with finer meadows shelter'd with more woods and very full of towns and houses But the soil in some places is as poor and lean on the other side which however makes a good return to the husbandman if he has skill in husbandry a mind to labour and a good purse to bestow upon it Nor indeed are there many places in England where land requires more charge to till it for it is almost quite barren in most parts unless it be over-spread with a c See the Additions to Cornwall and Philosophical Transactions Numb 103. p. 29. certain sand from the sea 〈◊〉 sand which renders it very fruitful and as it were impregnates the glebe and therefore in places more remote from the shore it is bought dear b In describing this County my way shall be first along the west-side bounded by the Tamar then along the south which lies upon the Ocean from hence by the eastern-bounds where it touches upon the County of Dorset and Somersetshire I will return to the north-coast which is bounded by the Severn-Sea The Tamar which divides these counties first on this side from the east receives the small river Lid upon which stands Lidston a little market-town â—ord and Lidford now a small village but formerly a famous town c most sadly shaken by the Danes in the year 997. This town as it appears from that book wherein William 1. took his survey of England was wont to be taxed at the same time and after the same manner that London was This little river Lid being here at the bridge pent up with rocks has made it self so deep a fall continual working that the water is not to be seen but only the murmure of it to be heard to the great admiration of those that pass over Lower down the Teave a little river runs into the Tamar upon which flourishes Teavistoke commonly Tavistoke formerly famous for an Abbey Tavistoke The foundation Charter which Ordulph the son of Ordgar Earl of Devonshire by the admonishment of a vision from heaven built about the year of our Saviour 961. The place says Malmesbury is pleasant for the convenience of wood for fine fishing and an uniform Church the banks of the river lie along just by the shops which by the force of it's current washes away all the rubbish thrown into it Saint Rumon a Bishop is much talk'd of there where he lies bury'd And there is seen in the same Monastery the sepulcher of Ordgar and the huge bulk of Mausolaeus his Son is look'd upon as a wonder he is call'd Ordulf of gigantick growth and prodigious strength For he could break the bars of gates and go along the river ten foot broad stridewise if we may credit the said William But it had hardly continu'd thirty three years from the foundation of it till it was burnt down by the Danes Yet it flourish'd again and by a laudable institution Saxon Lectures here were Lectures of our old mother tongue I mean the Saxon-language which is now grown into disuse continu'd down to the last age lest that which hath almost now happen'd the knowledge of it should be quite lost d The Tamar having receiv'd the Teave comes next to it's mouth where the Plim in conjunction with it rolls into the sea and gives name to the town Plimouth Plimouth seated on it which was formerly call'd Sutton this seems to have been twofold 13 H. 4. for we find mention in the Acts of Parliament of Sutton Vautort and Sutton Prior which partly belong'd to the family of the Valletorts and partly to the Prior. In the last age from a small fisher-village it grew up to a large town and is not inferiour to a city in number of inhabitants as we see it at this day e The convenience of the Haven was the cause of this rise which admits the greatest ships that are without striking sail and yields them safe harbour tho' never so big as well in the Tamar as the Plim besides it is sufficiently fortify'd to withstand the attacques of an enemy For in the very middle the d The name of this Island is S. Nicholas and contains two acres of ground or more Isle S. Michael lies before it which is also fortify'd And then the Haven at the town is guarded on both sides and block'd up with a chain crossing it upon occasion being guarded on the south by a bastion and by a castle on the next hill built as 't is thought by the Valletorts The whole town is divided into four tribes which we in our language call Wards who are all govern'd by a Mayor ordain'd by Henry 6. and under him formerly a * Capitaners Captain was made to every single ward who had each one also his inferior Officers As to that fable of Corinaeus's wrastling with Gogmagog Gogmagog the giant in this place it may suffice to subscribe a verse or two from the Architrenius concerning our giants Hos avidum belli robur Corinaeus Averno Praecipites misit cubitis ter quatuor altum Gogmagog Herculea suspendit in aëra lucta Anthaeumque suum scopulo detrusit in aequor Potavitque dato Thetis ebria sanguine fluctus Divisumque tulit mare corpus Cerberus umbram With those rude Monsters bred in wars and blood Brave Corinaeus clogg'd the Stygian flood High in the air huge Gogmagog he shook And pitch'd the vile Antaeus from his rock His hated carcass on the waves was tost And Cerberus started at his monstrous ghost That Rock from which the Giant is reported to have been thrust off is now call'd the Haw a hill between the town and the sea on the top whereof which is levelled into a delicate
quarries some such little miracles of sporting Nature And I have seen a stone brought from thence winded round like a serpent the head whereof tho' but imperfect jutted out in the circumference and the end of the tail was in the center u But most of them want the head In the neighbouring fields and other places hereabouts the herb Percepier â—ercepier grows naturally all the year round It is peculiar to England and one tastes in it a sort of tartness and bitterness 't is never higher than a span and grows in bushy flowers without a stalk It provokes urine strongly and quickly and there is a water distill'd out of it of great use as P. Poena in his Miscellanies upon Plants has observ'd w Scarce five miles from hence the river Avon parts Bristol in the middle â—â—tow call d by the Britains Caer Oder Nant Badon i.e. the City Odera in Badon valley In the Catalogue of the Ancient Cities it is nam'd Caer Brito and in Saxon it is BrightstoÆ¿ i.e. a famous place But a Amongst the rest Leland in his Comment upon the Cygnea cantio pag. 152. those who have affirm'd it to be the Venta Belgarum have impos'd both upon themselves and the world The City is plac'd partly in Somersetshire and partly in Glocestershire so that it does not belong to either having distinct Magistrates of it's own and being a county incorporate by it self It stands upon a pretty high gâ—ound between the Avon and the little river Frome what with walls and the rivers guarded very well for it was formerly enclos'd with a double wall It casts such a beautiful show both of publick and private buildings that it answers it's name and there are what they call Goutes in Latin Cloacae built in the subterraneous caverns of the earth to carry off and wash away the filth x so that nothing is wanting either for neatness or health But by this means it comes that Carts are not us'd here It is also so well furnish'd with the necessities of life and so populous that next to London and York it may justly claim a preeminence over all the cities in Britain For the trade of many nations is drawn thither by the advantage of commerce and of the harbour which brings vessels under sail into the heart of the city And the Avon swells so much by the coming in of the tide when the Moon descends from the Meridian and passes the place opposite that ships upon the shallows are born up 11 or 12 fathoms The citizens themselves drive a rich trade throughout Europe and make voyages to the remotest parts of America At what time and by whom it was built is hard to say but it seems to be of a late date since in all the Danish plunders it is not so much as mention'd in our Histories For my part I am of opinion it rose in the decline of the Saxon government since it is not taken notice of before the year of our Lord 1063. wherein Harald as Florence of Worcester has it set sail from Brytstow to Wales with a design to invade it In the beginning of the Norman times Berton an adjoyning farm and this Bristow paid to the King as 't is in Domesday book 110 marks of silver and the Burgesses return'd that Bishop G. had 33 marks â—â—am of â—â—â—ster and 1 mark of gold y Afterwards Robert Bishop of Constance plotting against William Rufus chose this for a seat of war and fortify'd the little city with that inner wall I suppose part of which remains to this day z But a few years after the Suburbs began to enlarge on every side for on the south Radcliff where were some little houses belonging to the suburbs is joyn'd to the rest of the city by a stone-bridge which is so set with houses that you would not think it a bridge but a street This part is included within the walls and the inhabitants have the privileges of citizens There are hospitals built in all parts for the poor and neat Churches for the glory of God Amongst the rest the most beautiful is S. Mary's of Radcliffe without the walls into which is a stately ascent by a great many stairs So large is it the workmanship so exquisite and the roof so artificially vaulted with stone and the tower so high that in my opinion it goes much beyond all the Parish Churches in England I have yet seen In it the founder William Canninges has two honorary monuments the one is his image in the habit of a Magistrate for he was five times Mayor of this City the other an image of the same person in Clergy-man's habit for in his latter days he took Orders and was Dean of the College which himself founded at Westbury Hard by it is also another Church call'd Temple the tower whereof as often as the bell rings moves to and again so as to be quite parted from the rest of the building and there is such a chink from top to bottom that the gaping is three fingers broad when the bell rings growing first narrower then again broader Nor must we omit taking notice of S. Stephen's Church the stately tower whereof was in the memory of our grandfathers built by one Shipward 41 Alià s Bâ—rstaple a citizen and merchant with great charge and curious workmanship On the east also and north parts it was enlarg'd with very many buildings and those too included within the walls being defended by the river Frome which after it has pass'd by these walls runs calmly into the Avon making a quiet station for ships and a creek convenient to load and unload wares which they call the Kay Under this The marsh between the confluence of Avon and Frome is a champain ground which is set round with trees and affords a pleasant walk to the citizens Upon the south-east where the rivers do not encompass it Robert natural son to King Henry 1. commonly call'd Robert Rufus Consul of Glocester because he was Earl of Glocester built a large and strong Castle for the defence of his city a and out of a pious inclination set aside every tenth stone for the building of a Chappel near the Priory of S. James which he also erected just under the City He took to wife Mabil daughter and sole heir of Robert Fitz-Hamon who held this city in fealty of William the Norman This castle yet scarce finish'd was besieg'd by King Stephen but he was forc'd to draw off without doing any thing and the same person not many years after being prisoner there was a fair instance how uncertain the events of war are Beyond the river Frome over which at Frome-gate is a bridge one goes obliquely up a high hill of a steep and difficult ascent from whence there is a pleasant prospect of the City and haven below it This upon the top runs into a large and green plain shaded all along the middle with a double rank of trees
who was his Godfather See Bede lib. 4. c. 13. and upon Baptism gave him this token of adoption Their Country is now divided into three Hundreds with a very little change of the name Meansborow Eastmean o Weastmean is only a Tithing and not a Hundred as the other two Weastmean within which there is a rais'd hill surrounded at the top with a large trench and call'd Old Winchester where tradition tells us there was an ancient City but there is now not the least mark or sign of it so that one may easily imagine it to have been only a Roman Summer-Camp Below this lies Warnford Warnford where Adam de Portu a man of great wealth in those parts under William the Conqueror rebuilt the Church as we are taught by a rude distich fixed on the wall Addae hic portu benedicat solis ab ortu Gens Deo dicata per quem sic sum renovata Good folks in your devotions ev'ry day For Adam Port who thus repair'd me pray q More inward there border upon these the Segontiaci Segontiaci who submitted themselves to Caesar and inhabited the Northern limits of this County living in the Hundred of Holeshot in which we meet with Aulton a Market-town that King Alfred by will left to the Keeper of Leodre and Basingstoke Basingstoke that has a well-frequented market and a very neat Chapel dedicated to the Holy Ghost built by William the first Lord Sands who there lies bury'd Upon the roof of it the history of the Prophets Apostles and Disciples of Christ is very artificially describ d. Below this place Eastward lies Basing Baâ—ing famous for it's Lords of that Sirname St. Johns St. Johns Poinings and Powlets For when Adam de Portu Lord of Basing marry d the daughter and heir of Roger de Aurevall whose wife was the daughter and heir of the noble family of the St. Johns Out of 〈◊〉 old m 〈…〉 this 〈◊〉 then William son of the said Adam took the honorary title of St. John which was retain'd by his successors in a right line But when Edmund de St. John in the time of Edward 3. died without issue Margaret his sister marrying John de St. Philibert brought to him the whole estate of the Lords St. John She likewise dying without issue Isabel her other sister wife of * Sir Luke Hol. Luke Poynings had by him Thomas Lord of Basing whose grandchild Constantia by his son Hugh became heir to this part of the estate and being marry'd into the family of the Powlets was the great grandmother of that William Powlet Powlet who by K. Henr. 8. was made Baron St. John of Basing and by King Edward 6. Earl of Wiltshire and Marquess of Winchester and being Lord High Treasurer of England after he had in most troublesome times run through a course of the highest honours He lived â—â— years dy'd in a good old age a happiness that rarely attends Courtiers He built here a seat both for largeness and beauty wonderfully magnificent but which was so overpower'd by it's own weight that his posterity have been forc'd to pull down a part of it r Nigh this place we see The Vine Vines 〈◊〉 brought 〈◊〉 to Engâ—aâ—d a very neat house of the Barons of Sandes and so call'd from Vines which we have had in Britain more for shade indeed than fruit Vopiscus ever since the time of Probus the Emperor For 't was he that gave liberty to the Britains and some other nations to have Vines The first Baron of this family was †Sir William Hol. William Sandes Barons 〈◊〉 Sandes whom King Henry 8. advanc'd to that honour when he was his Chamberlain and had encreas'd his estate by marriage with Margery Bray daughter and heir of John Bray and Cousin of Reginald Bray Knight of the Garter and a most eminent Baneret To him was born Thomas Lord Sandes grandfather to William now living Nigh this place to the south-east lies Odiam Odiam now proud of a Palace of the King 's and once known for the prison of David 2. King of Scots It was formerly a free burrough of the Bishop of Winchester's Matth â—â—ris the Castle whereof in the reign of K. John was defended by 13 English for 15 days together against Lewis Dauphine of France who straitly besieged it with a great Army Higher up among the Segontiaci upon the Northern edge of the County lay the City of these Segontiaci Vindonum which losing it's old name Vindâ—â—â— took that of it's inhabitants as Lutetia in France borrow'd it's name from the Parisians For this place was call'd by the Britains Caer Segonte that is the City of the Segontians and so Ninnius terms it in his Catalogue of Cities we at this day call it Silcester Silcester and Higden seems to give it the name of Britenden from the Britains I am induc'd to call this place the Vindonum because it agrees with the distances of Vindonum from Gallena or Guallenford and from Vinta or Winchester in the Itinerary of Antoninus and the rather too because there is a military way still visible between this Silcester and Winchester Ninnius tells us this City was built by Constantius son of Constantine the Great and that it was once call'd Murimintum perhaps for Muri-vindun that is the Walls of Vindonum for the Britains retain the word Mure borrow'd from the Provincial language and the V consonant they often change into M in their pronunciation On the ground whereon this City was built I deliver Ninnius's words the Emperâ—r Constantius sow'd 3 grains of Corn that no poor person might ever inhabit there So Dinocrates at the building of Alexandria in Egypt as Ammianus Marcellinus has it strowed all the out-lines with †Farioâ— Wheat by which Omen he foretold that that City should always be supplied with plenty of provisions The same Author also reports that Constantius dy'd here and that his sepulchre was to be seen at the gate of the City as appear'd by the inscription But in these matters let Ninnius vindicate his own credit who indeed has stuff'd that little history with a great many trifling lies But thus much I dare affirm that this city was in great repute in that age and I myself have here found several coins of Constantine Junior son of Constantine the Great which on their reverse have the figure of a building and this inscription PROVIDENTIAE CAESS But all writers agree that Constantius whom Ninnius makes the builder of this city dy'd at Mopsuestia or Mebsete in Cilicia and was thence carry'd to the sepulchre of his Ancestors at Constantinople 〈…〉 I deny not but that a †sepulchre or honorary grave might be here made for the Emperor for such like ‖ Barrows of earth were often made in memory of the dead â—mulâ— â—orary 〈◊〉 or â—ows round which the souldiers had yearly their solemn exercises in
honour of the deceased party When the Roman Empire began to decline and barbarous nations made frequent incursions into their provinces then the British armies fearing they might be involv'd in the calamity of their Neighbours chose themselves Emperors first Marcus then Gratian both of whom they presently murder'd and lastly â—tura â—runt â—tantine 〈◊〉 chose â—â—eror â—he sake 〈…〉 in the year 107. they * chose one Constantine purely for the sake of his name and against his own will in this city Caer Segont as Ninnius and Gervasius Dorobernensis tell us He setting sail from Britaine arrived at Bologne in France and got all the Roman forces as far as the Alps to joyn him defended Valence a city of Gaule with great resolution against the forces of Honorius the Emperor and set a garrison upon the †Rhine â—henum that was before defenseless He built several fortresses in the passages of the Alpes In Spain by the assistance of Constans his son whom from a Monk he had rais'd to the title of Augustus he was very successful and then sending letters to Honorius to beg pardon for his crime in suffering the soldiers to force upon him the Purple received back an Imperial Robe from that Emperour Buoy'd up with this he pass'd the Alpes with a design to march to Rome but hearing of the death of Alaric the Goth who had been a friend to his cause he retreated to Arles where he fixed the Imperial seat commanded the city to be call'd †after his own name â—tantiâ—â—â— and summon'd thither a solemn meeting of seven Provinces In the mean time Gerontius rais'd a faction against his Master and after he had traiterously slain Constans his son at Vienne in Gaule closely besieged Constantine the Father in Arles but while one Constantius sent by the Emperour Honorius was marching against him with an army Gerontius laid violent hands upon himself In the mean time Constantine being reduc'd to great necessity by the closeness of this siege and by some unhappy sallies of the garrison brought to despair he quitted his honour and that load of fortune and entring into the Church took upon him the Order of a * Priest â—â—y upon which the city was presently surrendred and he led prisoner into Italy where he was beheaded with Julian his son whom he entitled the Noble 〈◊〉 entiâ—â—e 〈◊〉 and Sebastian his brother The History of these affairs which is before deliver'd more at large I have here abridged from Zosimus Zosomen Nicephorus Orosius and Olympiodorus that truth may triumph over the vanity of those who by the help of their own invention have adulterated this story with their ridiculous and simple forgeries Our Historians report that in this city was the inauguration of our martial King Arthur and soon after the place was demolish'd either in the Saxon Wars or when Athelwolf in rebellion against King Edward his brother assisted by that crew of Danish Robbers destroy'd all this country as far as Basing-stoke Nothing now remains but the walls which though they have lost their coping and battlements seem to have been of a great height For by the rubbish and ruins the earth is grown so high that I could scarce thrust my self through a †passage which they call Onion's hole â—â—gipâ—râ— tho' I stoop'd very low The walls however remain in a great measure entire only some few gaps there are in those places where the gates have been and out of these very walls there grow Oaks of such a vast bigness incorporated as it were with the stones and their roots and boughs spreading so far round that they even raise an admiration in all that behold them In compass the walls contain about two Italian miles so that perhaps from the largeness of the place the Saxons call'd it Selcester that is a great city Sel what For Sel seems in their language to have signified great since Asserius Menevensis interprets the Saxon word Selwood by Sylva magna i.e. a great wood On the west-side of the walls where 't is a level there runs a long ridge cast up for defence of the place It includes about 80 acres of land a good and fat soil now divided into separate fields with a little grove towards the west and eastward near the gate a farm-house with a small Church of modern building in which while I search'd for ancient Inscriptions I found nothing but some Coats of Arms in the windows viz. in a field sable seven Fusils argent Bendwise as also in a field sable a Fesse between two cheverns Or and in a shield Or an eagle display'd with two heads gules Arms of the Blewets Bainards and Cusanz I find these last to be the Arms of the Blewets to whom this estate came after the time of William the Conquerour the second are the Arms of the noble family of Bainard of Leckham and the first is the Coat of the family of the Cusanz by whom this estate pass'd hereditarily from the Blewets to the Bainards But in the reign of William the Conquerour this was in the possession of William de Ow the Norman who being accus'd of treason appeal'd to a tryal of his innocence by Duel but being conquered he was by command of King William Rufus punish'd with the loss of his eyes and testicles The inhabitants of this place told me it had been a constant observation of theirs that tho' the soil here be fat and fertile yet in a sort of baulks that cross one another the corn never grows so thick as in the other parts of the field and along these they imagine the streets of the old city to have run Here are commonly dug up British tiles and great plenty of Roman Coins which they call Onion-pennies from one Onion whom they foolishly fancy to have been a Giant and an inhabitant of this city There are often found too some inscriptions which the ignorance of the Country-people has robb'd the world of There is only one brought up to London and placed in the garden of the honourable William Cecil Baron of Burghley and Lord High Treasurer of England which is this MEMORIAE FL. VICTORI NAE T. TAM VICTOR CONIUX POSVIT I shall not be positive as some others are that this was a monument in memory of Victorina who was called Mater Castrorum i.e. Mother of the Camp and who rais'd the Victorini son and grandson Posthumus Lollianus Marius and Tetricus Caesars in Gaule and Britain against Gallienus the Emperor But I have somewhere read that there were two Victors in Britaine and that both flourished at the same time one son of Maximus the Emperor the other * Praetorio Praefectus Praefect of the Guards to the same Emperor and mention'd by St. Ambrose in his Epistles But I dare affirm that neither of these was he who set up this monument in memory of his wife As there is one Roman military way that leads from hence directly southward
about the year of Christ 1183. Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury by an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester got a mannour in this place wherein he began a palace for him and his successors and this by little and little was enlarg'd But when the Archbishops began to have thoughts of building a small Collegiate Church here Good God what numbers of Appeals were packt to Rome by the Monks of Canterbury and what thundrings threatnings and censures were level'd by the Pope against the Archbishops For the Monks were jealous that this might prove an encroachment upon their Privileges and deprive them of their right to elect the Archbishop Nor could these disturbances be quieted till the little Church they had began was at the instance of the Monks levell'd with the ground Near to this is the most famous mart-town of all the County call'd at this day the Burrough of Southwork in Saxon Suþƿerke Southâ— i.e. a work or building to the south situated so to the south over against London as that it seems to be a sort of suburbs to it but yet so large is it and populous that it may vie with most Cities in England being as it were a Corporation of it self Within the memory of our fathers it had it 's own Bailifs but in the reign of Edward 6. it was annext to the City of London and is at this day reckon'd a branch of it For which reason we will defer the further examination of this place till we come to London Beneath this the Thames leaves Surrey the eastbound whereof runs down in a direct line to the south almost by Lagham which in the reign of Edward 1. had it's Parlamentary Barons Barons S. John 〈◊〉 Lagâ—â—â— call d S. John de Lagham whose estate came at last to J. Leodiard by a daughter and heiress Somewhat lower almost in the very corner where it takes a view both of Sussex and Kent is Sterborrow-castle formerly the seat of the Lords de Cobham who from this place were nam'd de Sterborrow Sterborrâ— and descending from John de Cobham Lord of Cobham and Couling and the daughter of Hugh Nevil flourish'd a long time together in great splendour and reputation For Reginald in the reign of Edward 3. was made Knight of the Garter and Admiral of the Sea-coasts from the Thames mouth Westward But Thomas the last of them marrying Anne daughter to 15 Humphry Duke the Duke of Buckingham had by her one only daughter Anne marry'd to Edward Burgh descended from the Percies and Earls of Athol His son Thomas was created Baron Burgh by K. Henry 8. and left a son William father to Thomas Barons â—rough 〈◊〉 Burgh who was a great encourager of Learning Governour of Briel made by Queen Elizabeth Knight of the Garter and Lord Deputy of Ireland where he expos'd himself to death in defence of his country As to Eleanor Cobham of this family wife to Humphrey Duke of Glocester whose reputation was something tainted I refer you to the English Histories We must now reckon up the Earls Earls 〈◊〉 Surreâ— who were 〈◊〉 call'd 〈◊〉 of Wâ—â— Arms 〈◊〉 Earls 〈◊〉 Warrâ—â— William Rufus King of England first made William de Warren Governour of Surrey 16 Who had marry'd his Sister under the honorary title of Earl whose Arms were Checky Or and azure For in his Foundation-Charter of the Priory of Lewis we read thus I have given c. for the good of my master K. William who brought me over into England and for the good of my Lady Queen Mawd my wife's mother and for the good of my master K. William his son after whose coming into England I made this Charter and who created me Earl of Surrey c. To him succeeded his son 17 And marry'd the daughter of Hugh Earl of Vermandois whereupon his posterity as some suppose us'd the Arms of Vermandois His son William dying in the Holy Land about 1142. and his grandchild by a son of the same name But this last had only a daughter who brought the same title first to William King Stephen's son and afterwards to Hamelin base son of Geoffrey Plantagenet Earl of Anjou But the first husband dying without issue Hamelin had by her William Earl of Surrey whose posterity taking the name of Warrens bore the same title This William marry'd the eldest daughter and coheir of William Marshal Earl of Pembroke widow of Hugh Bigod and had by her John 18 Who slew Alan de la Zâ—rich in presence of the Judges of the Realm and John by Alice daughter of Hugh le * Earls of March in â—â—â—nce Brune sister by the mother's side to K. Henry 3. had William who dy'd before his father and had by Joanna Vere daughter of the Earl of Oxford John who was born after the death of his father and was last Earl of this family He was as I learnt from his seal Earl of Warren Surrey Strathern in Scotland Lord of Bromfeld and Yale and Count Palatine But he dying without lawful issue in the 23d of Edward 3. his sister and heiress Alice was marry'd to Edmund Earl of Arundel and by that marriage brought this honour into the family of the Arundels 19 For Richard their son who marry'd in the House of Lancaster after his father was wickedly beheaded for siding with his Sovereign King Edward 2 by the malignant envy of the Queen was both Earl of Arundel and Surrey and left both Earldoms to Richard his son who contrariwise lost his head for siding against his Sovereign K. Richard 2. But Thomas his Son to repair his Father's dishonour lost his life for his Prince and Country in France leaving his sisters his heirs for the lands not entailed who were marry'd to Thomas Mowbray Duke of Norfolk c. to Sir Rowland Lenthall and Sir William Beauchampe Lord of Abergavenny from which it came at last by the Mowbrays to the Howards For Thomas Mowbray marry'd the eldest sister and coheir of Thomas Fitz-Alan Earl of Arundel and Surrey In the mean time 20 After the execution of Richard Earl of Arundel Richard 2. conferr'd the title of Duke of Surrey upon Thomas Holland Earl of Kent who notwithstanding did not long enjoy that honour For secretly endeavouring to rescue the same Richard then taken prisoner and to restore him to his Crown his plot unexpectedly was discover'd and himself making his escape was seiz'd by the town of Cirencester and beheaded Next Thomas de Beaufort who was the King's Chancellor bore this honour if we may believe Thomas Walsingham For he tells us that in the year 1410. The Lord Tho. Beaufort Earl of Surrey dy'd But let Walsingham make good his assertion for there is no such thing appears in the King's Records only that Thomas de Beaufort was about that time made Chancellor 'T is evident however from the publick Records of the Kingdom that King Henry 6. in the 29th year of
Anderida sylva so nam'd from Anderida the next adjoyning city took up in this quarter 120 miles in length and 30 in breadth memorable for the death of Sigebert a King of the West-Saxons who being depos'd b In a place call'd Pryfetes flodan Aethelwerd l. 2. c. 17. was here stabb'd to death by a Swine-herd It has many little rivers but those that come from the north-side of the County presently bend their course to the sea and are therefore unable to carry vessels of burden It is full of Iron-mines everywhere Iron for the casting of which there are Furnaces up and down the Country and abundance of wood is yearly spent many streams are drawn into one chanel and a great deal of meadow-ground is turned into Ponds and Pools for the driving of Mills by the * Suo impetu flashes which beating with hammers upon the iron fill the neighbourhood round about night and day with their noise But the iron here wrought is not everywhere of the same goodness yet generally more brittle than the Spanish whether it be from it's nature or tincture and temper Nevertheless the Proprietors of the mines by casting of Cannon and other things get a great deal of money But whether the nation is any ways advantag'd by them is a doubt the next age will be better able to resolve Neither doth this County want Glass-houses Glass but the glass here made by reason of the matter or making I know not which is not so clear and transparent and therefore only us'd by the ordinary sort of people b This whole County as to it 's Civil partition is divided into 6 parts which by a peculiar term they call Rapes that is of Chichester Arundell Brembre Lewes Pevensey and Hastings every one of which besides their Hundreds has a Castle River and Forest of it 's own But c In the Map the Rapes are now duely distinguish'd and divided forasmuch as I have little knowledge of the limits within which they are bounded I design to take my way along the shore from west to east for the inner parts scatter'd here and there with villages have scarce any thing worth mentioning In the very confines of Hamshire and this County stands Bosenham Boseham commonly call'd Boseham environ'd round about with woods and the sea together where as Bede saith Dicul a Scotch Monk had a very small Cell and 5 or 6 Brothers living poorly and serving God which was a long time after converted into a private retreat for K. Harold From which place as he once in a little Pinnace made to sea for his recreation he was by a sudden turn of the wind driven upon the coast of France and there detain'd till he had by oath assur'd the Kingdom of England unto William of Normandy after the death of K. Edw. the Confessor by which means he presently drew upon himself his own ruin and the kingdom's overthrow But with what a subtle double meaning that cunning catcher of syllables Earl Godwin's double meaning Godwin Earl of Kent this Harold's Father got this place and deluded the Archbishop by captious wrestings of letters Walter Mapes who liv'd not many years after shall in his own very words inform you out of his book de Nugis Curialium This Boseham underneath Chichester says he Godwin saw and had a mind to and being accompanied with a great train of Lords comes smiling and jesting to the Archbishop of Canterbury whose town it then was My Lord says he give me * Alluding perhaps to Basium a Kiss in times past us'd in doing homage Boseam The Archbishop wondring what he demanded by that question I give you says he Boseam He presently with his company of Knights and Soldiers fell down as he had before design'd at his feet and kissing them with a world of thanks retires to Boseham and by force of arms kept possession as Lord of it and having his followers as Witnesses to back him gave the Archbishop a great many commendations as the Donor in the King's presence and so held it peaceably Afterwards as we read in Testa de Nevil which was an Inquisition of lands made in K. John's time King William who afterwards conquer'd England gave this to William Fitz-Aucher and his heirs in fee-farm paying out of it yearly into the Exchequer 40 pounds of silver d See in Wiltshire under the title Old Salisbury try'd and weigh'd and afterwards William Marshall held it as his inheritance Chichester Chichester in British Caercei in Saxon Cissanceaster in Latin Cicestria stands in a Plain farther inwards upon the same arm of the sea with Boseham a pretty large city and wall'd about built by Cissa the Saxon the second King of this Province taking also it 's name from him For Cissan-ceaster is nothing else but the City of Cissa whose father Aella was the first Saxon that here erected a kingdom Yet before the Norman conquest it was of little reputation noted only for St. Peter's Monastery and a little Nunnery But in the reign of William 1. as appears by Domesday book there were in it 100 Hagae and it was in the hands of Earl Roger †De 〈◊〉 Gomâ—rice i.e. of Montgomery and there are in the said place 60 houses more than there were before It paid 15 pound to the King and 10 to the Earl Afterwards when in the reign of the said William 1. it was ordain'd that the Bishops Sees should be translated out of little towns to places of greater note and resort this city being honour'd with the Bishop's residence which was before at Selsey began to flourish Not many years after Bishop Ralph built there a Cathedral Church which before it was fully finish'd was by a casual fire suddenly burnt down Notwithstanding by his endeavours and K. Hen. 1.'s liberality it was raised up again and now besides the Bishop has a Dean a Chaunter a Chancellor a Treasurer 2 Archdeacons and 30 Prebendaries At the same time the city began to flourish and had certainly been much frequented and very rich had not the haven been a little too far off and less commodious which nevertheless the citizens are about making more convenient by digging a new canal It is wall'd about in a circular form and is wash'd on every side except the north by the e The course of this river's stream is very unaccountable sometimes being quite dry but at other times and that very often too in the midst of Summer it is so full as to run very violently little river Lavant having 4 gates opening to the 4 quarters of the world from whence the streets lead directly and run cross in the middle where the market is kept and where Bishop Robert Read built a fine stone Piazza As for the castle which stood not far from the north gate it was anciently the seat of the Earls of Arundel who from hence wrote themselves Earls of Chichester Earls of
a house of Knights-Templars which is now quite gone it also affords a seat to the Archbishop of Canterbury's Suffragan who Archâ—â—â—â—â—â— of Cantâ—â—bury's Sâ—fragan when the Archbishop is taken up with more weighty affairs manages such things as concern good order but does not meddle in the business of Episcopal Jurisdiction There is a large castle like a little city with strong fortifications and a great many towers which as it were threatens the sea under it from a hill or rather a rock upon the right hand that is on every side rugged and steep but towards the sea rises to a wonderful height Matthew Paris calls it The Key and barre of England The common people dream of it's being built by Julius Caesar and I conclude that it was first built by the Romans from those British bricks in the Chapel which they us'd in their larger sort of buildings When the Roman Empire began to hasten to it's end a Nâ—merus Tungricaâ—â—rum company of the Tungricans who were reckon'd among the Aids Palatine were plac'd by them here in garrison part of whose armour those great arrows seem to have been 75 Then and many years after before the invention of great Ordnance out of engines call'd Ballistae like huge Cross-bows bent by force of two or four men which they us'd to shoot out of Bâ—â—â—â—â—scis engines like large Cross-bows and which are r There is at present no such thing in the Castle now shown in the Castle as miracles Between the coming in of the Saxons and the end of their government I have not met with so much as the least mention either of this Castle or the Town unless it be in some loose papers transcrib'd from a Table hang'd up and kept here which tell us that Caesar after he had landed at Deale and had beaten the Britains at Baramdowne a plain hard by passable for horses and fit to draw up an army in began to build Dover-castle and that Arviragus afterwards fortify'd it against the Romans and shut up the harbour Next that Arthur and his men defeated here I know not what rebels However a little before the coming in of the Normans it was lookt upon as the only strength of England and upon that account William the Norman when he had an eye upon the kingdom took an oath of Harold that he should deliver into his hands this Castle with the well And And after he had settl'd matters in London he thought nothing of greater consequence than to fortifie it and to assign to his Nobles large possessions in Kent upon condition that they should be ready with a certain number of Souldiers for the defence of it but that service is now redeem'd with so much money yearly â—â—â—â—ars â—â—ng'd For when Sir Habert Hubert de Burgo was made Constable of this Castle those are the words of an ancient writer he considering that it was not for the safety of the Castle to have new Guards every month procur'd by the assent of the King and of all that held of the Castle that every Tenant for one month's Guard should send his ten shillings out of which certain persons elected and sworn as well horse as foot should receive pay for guarding the Castle It is reported that Philip sirnam'd Augustus King of France when his son Lewis was laying new designs in England and had taken some cities 77 And â—orts and could not get this being manfully defended by the said Sir Hubert de Burgh should say My son has not yet so much as foot hold in England if he have not got into his hands the Castle of Dover looking upon it to be the strongest place in England and to lye most convenient for France Upon another rock over against this and of almost an equal height there are to be seen the remains of some ancient building One author upon what grounds I know not has call'd it Caesar's Altar but John Twine of Canterbury a learned old man who when he was young saw it almost entire affirm'd to me that it was a watch-tower â—aâ—â—s to direct Sailors by night-lights c c Such another there was over against it at Bologne in France built by the Romans and a long time after repair'd by Charles the Great as Regino witnesses who writes it corruptly Phanum for Pharum now call'd by the French Tour d'Order and by the English The old man of Bullen Under this rock within the memory of our Fathers the most potent Prince King Henry 8. built a mole or pile we call it the Peere wherein ships might â—â—verâ—eâ—e 〈◊〉 Suiâ—â—â—eâ—â—â— ride with more safety It was done with great labour 78 And 63000 l. charges and at infinite charge by fastning large beams in the sea it self then binding them together with iron and heaping upon it great quantities of wood and stone But the fury and violence of the sea was quickly too hard for the contrivance of that good Prince and the frame of the work by the continual beating of the waves began to disjoint For the repair whereof Queen Elizabeth laid out great sâ—ms of money and by Act of Parliament a Custom for seven years was laid upon every English vessel that either exported or imported Commodities This sea-coast is parted from the Continent of Europe by a narrow sea where some are of opinion that it wrought it self a passage thorow Solinus calls it Fretum Gallicum or The French straits Tacitus and Ammianus Fretum Oceani and Oceanum fretalem the strait of the Ocean and the Ocean-strait Gratius the Poët terms it Freta Morinûm dubio refluentia ponto The narrow seas on Bullen-coast that keep uncertain tides the Hollanders Dehofden from the two Promontories The strait of Calais or Narrow-seas we The strait of Calleis the French Pas de Callais For this is the place as a Poët of our own time has it gemini quà janua ponti Faucibus angustis latéque frementibus undis Gallorum Anglorumque vetat concurrere terras Where the two foaming mouths of boist'rous seas Preserve a narrow but a dreadful space And Britain part from Gaul This narrow sea as Marcellinus hath truly observ'd at every tide swells out with terrible waves and again in the ebb is as plain as a field 79 If is be not rais'd with winds and counter-seas Between two risings of the moon it flows twice and ebbs as often For as the moon mounts up towards the meridian and after it's setting in the point opposite to it the sea swells here exceedingly and a vast body of waters rushes against the shore with such a hideous noise that the Poët had reason enough to say Rhutupináque littora fervent And Rhutup's shore doth boil and bellow And D. Paulinus Epist 2. ad Victricium where he speaks of the tract of the Morini which he calls the utmost bound of the world stiles this an Ocean raging with barbarous waves Give me
afterwards the penitent King cleans'd the Sanctuary rebuilt the Monastery restor'd the old endowment and added new possessions and at last Roger Bishop of Salisbury gave the place to m One Wimund who instituted Canons Regular and became the first Prior of them a very learned Canon Regular who there setled a perpetual society of such Regular Canons for the service of God But leaving these matters let us return to the University The Danish storms being pretty well blown over the pious Prince K. Aelfred restor'd the Muses who had suffer'd a long exile to their former habitation and built three Colleges one for Grammarians another for Philosophers and a third for Divinity q But you have a larger account of this in the old Annals of the Monastery of Winchester In the year of our Lord's incarnation 1306 in the second year of St. Grimbald's coming over into England the University of Oxford was founded the first Regents there and Readers in Divinity were St. Neot an Abbot and eminent Professor of Theology and S. Grimbald an eloquent and most excellent Interpreter of the holy Scriptures Grammar and Rhetorick were taught by Asserius a Monk a man of extraordinary learning Logick Musick and Arithmetick were read by John Monk of St. Davids Geometry and Astronomy were profess'd by John a Monk and Collegue of S. Grimbald one of a sharp wit and immense knowledge These Lectures were often honour'd with the presence of the most illustrious and invincible Monarch K. Aelfred whose memory to every judicious taste shall be always sweeter than honey Soon after this as we read in a very fair MS. copy of that Asserius who was himself at the same time a Professor in this place there arose a sharp and grievous dissention between Grymbold and those learned men whom he brought hither with him and the old scholars whom he found here at his coming for these absolutely refus'd to comply with the Statutes Institutions and Forms of reading prescrib'd by Grimbold The difference proceeded to no great height for the space of three years yet there was always a private grudge and enmity between them which soon after broke out with the utmost violence imaginable To appease these tumults the most invincible K. Aelfred being inform'd of the faction by a message and complaint from Grymbold came to Oxford with design to accommodate the matter and submitted to a great deal of pains and patience to hear the cause and complaint of both parties The controversie depended upon this the old Scholars maintain'd that before the coming of Grymbold to Oxford learning did here flourish tho' the Students were then less in number than they had formerly been by reason that very many of them had been expell'd by the cruel tyranny of Pagans They farther declar'd and prov'd and that by the undoubted testimony of their ancient Annals that good orders and constitutions for the government of that place had been already made by men of great piety and learning such as Gildas Melkin Ninnius Kentigern and others who had there prosecuted their studies to a good old age all things being then manag'd in happy peace and quiet and that St. German coming to Oxford and residing there half a year what time he went thro' all England to preach down the Pelagian Heresie did well approve of their rules and orders The King with incredible humility and great attention heard out both parties exhorting them with pious and importunate entreaties to preserve love and amity with one another Upon this he left them in hopes that both parties would follow his advice and obey his instructions But Grymbold resenting these proceedings retir'd immediately to the Monastery at Winchester which K. Aelfred had lately founded and soon after he got his tomb to be remov'd thither to him in which he had design'd his bones should be put after his decease and laid in a vault under the chancel of the church of St. Peters in Oxford which church the said Grymbold had raised from the ground of stones hewn and carv'd with great art and beauty This happy restauration of Learning receiv'd two or three interruptions in few years For in the reign of K. Etheldred n Probably out of revenge for the injuries they had done 'em An. 1002. when upon the King's Commission to kill all the Danes in England the execution at Oxon. was more particularly severe the Danes sack'd and burn'd the city And soon after Harold sirnam'd * Levipes Haretoot was so incens'd against the place for the death of some of his friends in a tumult and prosecuted his revenge in so barbarous a manner that the scholars were miserably banish'd from their studies and the University a sad spectacle lay as it were expiring till the time of the Conquerour when too as some say he besieg'd and took this city o Notwithstanding all the Copies of Matthew Paris and Roger Wendover call it Oxonia which is confirm'd as well by other Authorities as an old Tradition that while the Conquerour was in his march to the north for the quiet of these parts he came to Oxford which refusing to yield to him and a soldier from the wall highly affronting him he storm'd it on the north-side and getting possession gave the greatest part of the city to Robert de Oily who in the Survey had within the walls and without 42 houses inhabited and 8 lying waste but those who write so have been impos'd upon by reading in faulty copies Oxonia instead of Exonia Yet that it was even then a place of study we may learn from the express words of Ingulph who flourish'd in that age p The Editors of Ingulph 684. found this passage in all the Copies which confutes those who would make us believe it is not genuine I Ingulph being first placed at Westminster was afterward remov'd to the Study of Oxford where in the learning of Aristotle I improv'd beyond most of those who were of equal years with me c. For what we now call Universities they call'd Studies as I shall by and by observe However about this time the city was so impoverish'd that whereas according to the general survey there were reckon'd within and without the walls 750 houses besides 24 mansions upon the walls 500 of 'em were not able to pay the geld or tax When to speak from the authority of Domesday-book this city paid for toll and gable and other customs yearly to the King twenty pounds and six sextaries of honey and to Earl Algar ten pounds Soon after Robert de Oili a noble Norman before-mention'd when for the reward of his services he had received from the Conquerour a large portion of lands in this county he q An. 1071. by order of the King who was jealous of the fidelity of those parts built a castle on the west-side of the City fortified with large trenches and rampires and in it r It was not built for a Parish-Church for the Oseney-Register
Antesignani Standard-bearers of London 16 And amongst them Robert Fitz-Walter had licence of King Edw. 1. to sell the site of Bainard-Castle to the said Archbishop Robert The Bishopâ—ick Nor was London only wall'd round at that time but also upon the confirmation Christianity receiv'd from that best of Emperours the Flamine was remov'd and a Bishop put in his place For 't is plain that the Bishop of London was at the Council of Arles held in the year 314. under Constantine the Great since we find by the first Tome of the Councils See Baronius concerning this Council Out of the Province of Britain Restitutus Bishop of the City of London whom with his successors some affirm to have had his residence at St. Peter's in Cornhill From that time London flourish'd so exceedingly London caâ—â—'d Augâ—sta as that by degrees it was call'd Augusta and had that honourable title under Valentinian the Emperour For thus Ammianus Marcellinus in his 27th Book And going to London an ancient town which posterity call'd Augusta And in his 28th Book Going from Augusta which the Ancients call'd London Upon which account The Mint when a Mint-Office was settled here in Constantine the Great 's time for we read in those Medals that he made in memory of Constantius his father as well as in others P. LON. S. i.e. Pecunia Londini signata or money coin'd at London then he that was Governour here under the Count of the * Sacrarum largitiorum Augusta a most honourable name Imperial Largesses we find call'd by the Notitia Provost of the Treasures of the Augustenses in Britain This Augusta was a name of the greatest honour and full of Majesty For the Builders or Repairers of Cities out of either hopes or wishes that they might be powerful flourishing and great us'd to give them auspicious names But amongst all the rest there was none so magnificent none so auspicious as Augusta For that best and greatest of Emperours Octavianus took the name of Augustus not without the judgment of the most Learned He was surnam'd Augustus says Dio to imply that he was above the common reach of men Lib. 54. For those things which best deserve honour and are most sacred are call'd Augusta Nor had London this name and this particular mark of honour without the consent of the Roman Emperours Which custom of taking no name without a particular Licence Virgil hints to in that verse of his Urbem appellabant permisso nomine Acestam The city they with leave Acesta call'd But as time has destroy'd this most honourable name so has it confirm'd that more ancient one of London While it had that other name it was very near being sack'd by a seditious gang of Robbers but Theodosius father to Theodosius the Emperour falling upon them while they were laden with the spoils routed them and as Marcellinus has it with great joy and in a triumphant manner enter'd the City that had just before been overwhelm'd in miseries Marching from thence he so effectually freed Britain by his singular courage from those calamities wherein 't was involv'd that as Symmachus tells us †Consecrarunt Britannicum Ducem inter prisca nomina London in the Saxons hands the Romans honour'd this British General with a Statue on horse-back amongst their ancient heroes Not long after when the Roman Government in Britain expir'd by a publick calamity of the whole Island it fell under the power of the Saxons but by what methods does not appear from History I fancy that Vortigern when a captive gave it Hengist the Saxon for his ransom for it belong'd to the East-Saxons and Authors tell us that Vortigern gave Hengist that Country upon this account At which time the Church suffer'd whatever could be inflicted it 's Pastors martyr'd or banish'd the flocks driven away and when all the wealth sacred and profane was swallow'd up in plunders and rapines Theonus the last Bishop of London that was a Britain hid the Reliques of the Saints as my Author says to preserve their memory and not out of any superstition Reliques hid to preserve the memory of persoâ—s But tho' the disturbances of the Saxon age were such that one might truly say Mars himself had brandish'd his weapons yet was London as Bede tells us a Mart-town of great traffick and commerce both by sea and land But afterwards when a gentle gale of peace began to fan and inspirit this weary Island and the Saxons turn'd Christian it rose again with a new and greater lustre For Aethelbert King of Kent under whom Sebert was a ‖ Quasi beneficiarius sort of petty Prince purely by permission in those parts he built here a Church dedicated to S. Paul S. Pauls which by improvements at several times is grown to an exceeding large and magnificent building and the revenues of it are so considerable as to maintain a Bishop Dean Praecentor Chancellour Treasurer 5 Archdeacons 30 Prebendaries and others The east-part of this Church which seems to be newer and is curiously wrought having a vault and a most beautiful porch call'd also S. Faith's Church was re-edify'd by Bp. Maurice about 1036. out of the ruins of that Palatine Tower above-mention'd having been before that lamentably burnt down Of which Malmesbury It has such a majestick beauty as to deserve a name amongst the buildings of greatest note So wide is the vault so capacious * Superior aedes the body of the Church that one would think it might contain the greatest Congregation imaginable And thus Maurice by satisfying his extravagant humour entail'd the charge of this great work upon posterity And afterward when Richard his successor had allow'd the entire revenues of his Bishoprick to the building of this Cathedral finding other ways to maintain himself and his family he seem'd to have done nothing towards it thus he bestow'd all he had upon it and to little purpose The west part of it as also ‖ Transeptum the Cross-Ile is spacious with lofty large pillars and a most beautiful roof Where these 4 parts do as it were cut one another there arises a large and lofty tower upon which stood a spire cover'd over with lead and of a prodigious height for from the ground it was 534 foot but in the year 1087. it was burnt with lightning not without great damage to the city and tho' built again yet very lately when we were boys suffering the same fate once more it is not yet re-edify'd I will subjoyn the description of this magnificent structure out of an Author of pretty good Antiquity which you may read or let alone as you please The length of Paul's Church is 690 foot the breadth 130 foot the height of the western-roof from the area 102 foot the height of the roof of the new building from the area 88 foot the height of the stone-work belonging to * Campanile the Belfrey from the ground
much of Westminster which tho' as I observ'd is a City of it self and of a distinct Jurisdiction I have taken in along with London because it is so joyn'd to it by continu'd buildings that it seems to be but one and the same City Hoâ—burn On the west-side of the City the Suburbs runs out with another row of beautiful buildings namely Holborn or rather Oldburn 58 Wherein stood anciently the first House of Templers only in the place now called Southampton House wherein are some Inns for the study of the Common Law and a house of the Bishops of Ely becoming the State of a Bishop which they owe to John Hotham Bishop of that See under Edward 3. The Suburbs grew likewise on the north-side where Jordan Brisset a pious and wealthy man built an House for the Knights Hospitalers of S. John Hoâ—pitalers of S. John of Jerusalem that was afterwards improv'd into the stateliness of a Palace and had a very beautiful Church with a high tower so neatly carry'd up that while it stood 't was a singular ornament to the City At their first Institution 59 About the year 1124. and long after they were so humble while but poor that their †Governour was call'd Servant to the poor Servants of the Hospital at Jerusalem as that of the Templers Templâ—â—s who arose a little afteâ— The humble Minister of the poor Knights of the Temple 60 This religious Order was instituted shortly after Geoffry of Bollen had recover'd Jerusalem The Brethren whereof wore a white Cross upon their upper black garment and by solemn profession were bound to serve Pilgrims and poor people in the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem and to secure the passages thither they charitably buried the dead they were continual in prayer mortified themselves with watchings and fastings they were courteous and kind to the poor whom they called their Masters and fed with white bread while themselves liv'd with brown and carried themselves with great austerity Whereby they purchased to themselves the love and liâ—ing of all sorts But what for their piety and bravery in war their condition came to be so much alter'd from this mean state by the bounty of good Princes and private persons that they even abounded in every thing For about the year 1240. they had nineteen thousand Lordships or Manours within Christendom as the Templers had nine thousand whose revenues here in England fell also afterwards to the Hospitalers Mâ—tth Par. And this vast increase of revenues made them so effectual a passage to great honours that their Prior was reckon'd the first Baron of England and liv'd in great state and plenty till King Henry 8. by the instigation of bad Counsellors seis'd upon all their lands as he did also upon those belonging to the Monasteries which out of a pious design were dedicated to God's glory and by the Canons of the Church were to be expended upon the maintenance of Priests relief of the poor redemption of Captives and the repair of Churches Near this place where there is now a stately circuit of houses was formerly a rich House of the Carthusians Câ—â—ter-hâ—â—se built by 61 Sir Walter Many Walter Many of Hainault who got great honour by his service in the French War under Edward 3. And before that there was a very famous Church-yard which in that plague of London in the year 1349. had above fifty thousand men bury'd in it as appear'd by an Inscription in brass whereby it was convey'd to posterity t The Suburbs also which runs out on the north-west side of London is large and had formerly a watch-tower or military ‖ Praetentura fence from whence it came to be call'd by an Arabick name Barbacan Barbacan By the gift of Edw. 3. it became a seat of the Uffords Gâ—leottus Martius from whom by the Willoughbies it descended to 62 Sir Peregrine Berty Peregrine Bertie Lord Willoughby of Eresby a person every way of a generous temper and a true martial courage Nor are the Suburbs that shoot forth towards the north-east and east less considerable in the fields whereof whilst I am upon this work there are digg'd up many sepulchral Vessels Seals and Urns with Coins in them of Claudius Nero Vespasian c. Glass Vials also with small earthen vessels wherein was a sort of liquid Substance which I should imagine to be either an oblation of wine and milk us'd by the Romans at the burning of their dead or those odoriferous Liquors mention'd by Statius Phariique liquores Arsuram lavêre comam And precious odours sprinkled on his hair Prepar'd it for the flames This was a place set apart by the Romans for burning and burying their dead being oblig'd by the Twelve Tables to carry them without the Cities and to bury them by the military high-ways 63 To put passengers in mind that thâ—y are as those were subject to mortality And thus much of the land-side of the City u But upon the river-side and the south part of it Borough of Southwark See Surrey p. 160. that large Borough of Southwark before-mention'd is joyn'd to the city with a bridge first built on wooden piles where formerly instead of a bridge they pass'd the water in a ferry Afterwards The Bridge in the reign of K. John they built a new one of free-stone and admirable workmanship with 19 Arches beside that which makes the * Versatilis Draw-bridge and so continu'd it all along like a street with most handsome buildings that it may claim a preheminence over all the bridges in Europe whether you look upon the largeness or beauty In this Borough of Southwark the things that have been remarkable are a noble Abbey for Monks of the Benedictine Order call'd Bermondsey erected formerly to our Saviour by Aldwin Child S. Saviour Citizen of London and a stately house built by Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk Suffolk-house which was pull'd down again after it had been for a little time the delight of its Master There still remains the Hospital of S. Thomas St. Thomas Hospital repair'd or rather founded by the City of London for the lame and infirm and the Church of the Priory of St. Mary which because it is seated over the Thames is with respect to the City of London call'd a The learned Dr. Hicks in his Saxon Grammar has observ'd that the Church's name is not taken from it's being over the river but from standing upon the banks of it ofre in Saxon signifying a bank S. Mary Over-Rhe founded for 64 Black Canons Canons by William Ponte del Arche a Norman as also the house of the Bishops of Winchester built by William Gifford Bishop about the year 1107. for the use of his successors From this along the Thames-side there runs westward a continu'd line of houses in which compass within the memory of our fathers there
an honourable series of Earls and Lords are descended From hence passing through Earls-Coln so call'd by reason of its being the burying place of the Earls of Oxford where Aubry de Vere 24 In the time of King Henry 1. founded a small Convent and took himself a religious habit it goes on to Colonia which Antoninus mentions and makes a different place from Colonia Camaloduni Whether this Colonia Colonia be deriv'd from the same word signifying a Colony or from the river Coln let Apollo determine k For my part I am more inclin'd to the latter opinion since I have seen several little towns that adding the name of Coln to that of their respective Lords are call'd Earls-Coln Wakes-Coln Coln-Engain Whites-Coln This city the Britains call'd Caer Colin the Saxons Coleceaster and we Colchester Colchester 'T is a beautiful populous and pleasant place extended on the brow of an hill from West to East surrounded with walls and adorn'd with 15 Parish-Churches besides that large Church which Eudo Sewer to Henry 1. built in honour of St. John This is now turn'd into a private house In the middle of the city stands a castle ready to fall with age Historians report it to have been built by Edward son to Aelfred when he repair'd Colchester which had suffer'd very much in the wars 25 And long after Maud the Empress gave it to Alberic Vere to assure him to her party But that this city flourish'd even more than ever in the time of the Romans abundance of their coins found every day fully evince l Though I have met with none ancienter than Gallienus the greatest part of them being those of the Tetrici Victorini Posthumus C. Carausius Helena mother to Constantine the Great Constantine and the succeeding Emperours The inhabitants glory that Fl. Julia Helena mother to Constantine the Great was born in this city daughter to King Coelus And in memory of the Cross which she found they bear for their arms a Cross enragled between four Crowns Of her and of this city thus sings Alexander Necham though with no very lucky vein Effulsit sydus vitae Colcestria lumen Septem Climatibus lux radiosa dedit Sydus erat Constantinus decus imperiale Serviit huic flexo poplite Roma potens A star of life in Colchester appear'd Whose glorious beams of light seven climats shar'd Illustrious Constantine the world's great Lord Whom prostrate Rome with awful fear ador'd The truth is she was a woman of a most holy life and of an unweary'd constancy in propagating the Christian Faith whence in old inscriptions she is often stiled PIISSIMA and VENERA-BILIS AUGUSTA Between this city where the Coln emptieth it self into the sea lyes the the little town of St. Osith the old name was * Cice by the Saxon Annals Chic Chic the present it receiv'd from the holy Virgin St. Osith S. Osithe who devoting her self entirely to God's service and being stabbed here by the Danish pyrates was by our ancestors esteem'd a Saint In memory of her Richard Bishop of London about the year 1120. built a Religious house and fill'd it with Canons Regular This is now the chief seat of the right honourable the Lords Darcy Barons Darcy of Chich. stiled Lords of Chich who were advanc'd to the dignity of Barons by Edward the sixth 26 When he created Sir Thomas Darcy his Councellor Vice-Chamberlain and Captain of the Guard Lord Darcy of Chich. m From hence is stretch'd out a vast shore as far as Nesse-point Nesse in Saxon Eadulphesness What was once found hereabouts let Ralph de Coggeshal tell you who wrote about 350 years ago In the time of King Richard on the sea-shore in a village call'd Edulfinesse were found two teeth of a Giant Giants of such a prodigious bigness that two hundred of such teeth as men ordinarily have now might be cut out of one of them These I saw at Cogshal and handled with great admiration Another I know not what Gigantick relique was found near this place in the beginning of Q. Elizabeth by the noble R. Candish I can't deny but there have been men of such extraordinary bulk and strength as to be accounted prodigies whom God as St. Austin tells us therefore produc'd in the world to show that comeliness of body and greatness of stature were therefore not to be esteem'd among the good things because they were common to the impious with the virtuous and religious Yet we may justly suspect what Suetonius hath observ'd that the vast joints and members of great beasts dugg up in other countries and in this kingdom too have been commonly term'd and reputed the bones of Giants Bones of Giants n From this point the shore runs back a little to the Stour's mouth famous for a sea-fight between the Saxons and Danes in the year 884. Here is now seated Harewich Harewiâ—â— a very safe harbour as the name imports for the Saxon Hare-Æ¿ic signifies as much as an haven or bay where an army may lye 27 The town is not great but well peopled fortified by art and nature and made more fencible by Queen Elizabeth The salt-water so creeketh about it that it almost insulateth it but thereby maketh the springs so brackish that there is a defect of fresh water whcih they fetch-some good way off o This is that Stour which parteth Essex and Suffolk and on this side runs by no memorable place only some fat pastures But not far from the spring of this river stands Bumsted which the family of the Helions held by Barony 28 From whom the Wentworths of Gosfield are descended And in those parts of this county which are opposite to Cambridgeshire lyes Barklow Barkl w. Old Baâ—rows famous for four great Barrows such as our ancestors us'd to raise to the memory of those Soldiers that were kill'd in battel and their bodies lost But when two others in the same place were dugg up and search'd we are told that they found three stone Coffins and abundance of pieces of bones in them The Country-people have a tradition that they were rais'd after a battel with the Danes And the †Wall-wort or Dwarf-elder that grows hereabouts in great plenty and bears red berries they call by no other name but Dane's-blood Danes-blood denoting the multitude of Danes that were there slain Lower among the fields that look pleasantly with Saffron is seated g Call'd formerly Walden-burg and afterwards Cheping-Walden Walden Waldâ—â— a market-town call'd thence Saffron-Walden 29 Incorporated by King Edward 6. with a Treasurer two Chamberlains and the Commonalty It was famous formerly for the castle of the Magnavils which now scarce appears at all and for an adjacent little Monastery 30 Founded in a place very commodious in the year 1136. Commonly call'd Maâ—dâ—villeâ— in which the Magnavils founders of it lye interr'd Jeffrey de Magnaville was
shillings 4 Prebendaries 6 Sextaries of honey and ‖ Ursum sex canes ad ursum a bear with 6 dogs to bait him Now it pays 70 pound by weight to the King a hundred shillings * De Gersuma as a fine to the Queen with an ambling Palfrey 20 pound †Blancas blank also to the Earl and 20 shillings fine by tale In the reign of William 1. this was the seat of a Civil war which Ralph Earl of the East-Angles rais'd against that King For after he had escap'd by flight his wife along with the Armorican Britains endur'd a close siege till for want of provisions she was forc'd to get off and quit her Country And at that time the City was so impair'd that as appears by the same Domesday there were scarce 560 Burgesses left in it Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury mentions this surrender in a Letter to King William in these words Your kingdom is purg'd from the infection of the Britains or Armoricans the Castle of Norwich is surrender'd and the Britains that were in it and had lands here in England upon granting them life and limb have took an oath to depart your Dominions within forty days and never to return more without your special licence From that time forward it began by little and little to recover it self out of this deluge of miseries and Bishop Herbert whose reputation had suffer'd much by Simoniacal practices translated the Episcopal See from Thetford hither He built a very beautiful Cathedral on the east and lower part of the City in a place till then call'd Cow-holme near the Castle the first stone whereof in the reign of William Rufus and year of our Lord 1096. he himself laid with this Inscription DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS FILII ET SPIRITUS SANCTI AMEN That is Lord Bishop Herbert laid the first stone in the name of the Father the Son and Holy Ghost Amen Afterwards he procur'd a Licence from Pope Paschal to confirm and establish it the mother-Church of Norfolk and Suffolk and endow'd it liberally with lands sufficient for the maintenance of 60 Monks who had their neat and curious Cloysters But these were remov'd and a Dean six Prebendaries with others put in their places After the Church thus built and an Episcopal See plac'd here it became a Town as Malmsbury has it famous for Merchandise and number of Inhabitants And in the 17th of King Stephen as we read in some ancient Records Norwich was built anew was a populous town and made a Corporation That King Stephen also granted it to his Son William for an Appennage as they call it or inheritance is very evident from the publick Records But Henry the second took it from him and held it himself notwithstanding Henry his Son the Junior-King as they call'd him when he endeavour'd after the Crown had promis'd it in large terms to Hugh Bigod Earl of Norfolk whom he had drawn over to his party Bigod however adhering to the young King who could not over-rule his eager hopes of the Crown with Justice and Equity miserably harrass'd this City and is thought to have rebuilt that Castle on the high hill near the Cathedral within the City encompast with a trench of such vast depth that in those times it was lookt upon as impregnable But Lewis of France under whom the rebellious Barons had joyn'd against King John easily took it by siege The reason why I fancy Bigod repair'd the Castle is because I observ'd Lions saliant cut in a stone in the same manner as the Bigods formerly us'd them in their seals of whom tho' there was one that made use of a Cross And this was the condition of Norwich in its infancy But in the next age it increas'd mightily and abounded with wealthy Citizens who by a humble petition in Parliament desir'd liberty of Edward the first to wall their City round and afterwards accordingly did it to the great strength and ornament of it †They obtain'd of King Richard the second that the Worsted made there might be transported In the year 1403. they obtain'd leave of Henry the fourth instead of Bailiffs which they had before to elect a Mayor yearly and in the very heart of the City near the market-place built a most beautiful Town-house which on the set days are furnisht with all manner of provisions 'T is partly indebted to the Netherlands who after they could no longer endure the tyranny of the Duke of ‖ Albani Alva nor the bloody Inquisition setting up flockt hither in great numbers and first brought in the manufacture of * Of Saies Baies and other Stuffs now much in use light worsted stuffs ‖ Levidenâ—ium quorundam pannorum But why am I so long upon these matters when they are all with the History of the Bishops the succession of their Magistrates and the fury of that villanous rebel Kett against this City very elegantly describ'd by Alexander Nevil a person eminent both for birth and learning I will only add that in the year 1583. the Citizens by the help of * Instrumento Hydragogico an artificial Instrument convey'd water through pipes into the highest part of the City And here I could summon both Polydore Virgil the Italian and Angelus Capellus the Frenchman to answer before the Tribunal of venerable Antiquity how they come to affirm that our old Ordovices who liv'd almost under another Hemisphere inhabited this Norwich I could bring the same Action against our Country-man Caius but that I am satisfy'd 't was nothing but a natural love of his native Country that blinded the learned old man And I have nothing more to add about Norwich unless you have a mind to run over these verses made upon it by John Johnston a Scotchman Urbs speciosa situ nitidis pulcherrima tectis Grata peregrinis delitiosa suis Bellorum sedes trepido turbante tumultu Tristia Neustriaco sub duce damna tulit Victis dissidiis postquam caput ardua coelo Extulit immensis crevit opima opibus Cultus vincit opes cultum gratia rerum Quam benè si luxus non comitetur opes Omnia sic adeò sola haec sibi sufficit ut si Fo rs regno desit haec caput esse queat A town whose stately piles and happy seat Her Citizens and Strangers both delight Whose tedious siege and plunder made her bear In Norman troubles an unhappy share And feel the sad effects of dreadful war These storms o'reblown now blest with constant peace She saw her riches and her trade increase State here by wealth by beauty wealth 's out-done How blest if vain excess be yet unknown So fully is she from her self supply'd That England while she stands can never want an head From Norwich the river Yare with the increase of other waters that take the same name rowls on in a winding chanel and abounds with the fish call'd a
Lancaster Earl of Hereford to the King for blabbing some scandalous and malicious words against his Majesty And when they were to try it by duel a Herald by the King's authority pronounc'd sentence against them at the very Lists that both should be banish'd Lancaster for 10 years but Mowbray for life who dy'd at Venice leaving two sons behind him in England Whereof Thomas Earl Marshal and Earl of Nottingham for he had no other titles upon raising a conspiracy was beheaded by Henry of Lancaster who had possest himself of the Crown under the name of Henry 4. But his brother and heir John by the favour of Hen. 5. was restor'd and being for some years after stil'd only Earl Marshal and Earl of Nottingham upon Hen. 6.'s coming to the Crown was by virtue of a Patent granted by Rich. 2. as son of Thomas Duke of Norfolk his father Rot. Parl. 3 Hen. 6. and heir to Thomas his brother declar'd Duke of Norfolk by authority of Parliament He was succeeded by his son John who dy'd in the first year of Edw. 4. and he also by his son of that name who in the life-time of his father was by Hen. 6. created Earl of Surrey and Warren Parl. 17. Edw. 4. Whose only daughter Anne was marry'd to Richard Duke of York K. Ed. the 4.'s young son and with her had a grant from his father of the titles of Norfolk Earl Marshal Warren and Nottingham But both he and his wife being made away very young Rich. 3. K. of England conferr'd the title of Duke of Norfolk and the authority of Earl Marshal upon 24 John Lord Howard John Howard who was found Kinsman and one of the heirs of Anne Dutchess of York and Norfolk above-mention'd For his mother was one of the daughters of that first Tho. Mowbray Duke of Norfolk and K. Edw. 4. had advanc'd him to the dignity of a Baron This John was kill'd in the battel of Bosworth fighting valiantly for Richard against Hen. 7. His son Thomas who by creation from Rich. 3. was Earl of Surrey 25 And by King Hen. 7. made Lord Treasurer was by K. Hen. 8. restor'd to his father's title of Norfolk 26 And his son the same day created Earl of Surrey after he had routed the Scotch-army 27 At Branxton at Floddon wherein James 1. K. of Scots was slain In memory of which victory it was granted to the family of the Howards that in the middle of the White Bend in their Arms there should be added In an Escocheon Or An honorary Escocheon in the Arms of the Howards a demy Lion shot through the mouth with an arrow within a double tressure adorn'd with Lilies on both sides Gules which comes very near to the Arms of the Kings of Scotland He was succeeded by his son Thomas 28 As well in his Honours as in the Office of Lord Treasurer of England and liv'd in the time of Queen Mary whom our own Age saw toss'd about with the ebbs and flows of Fortune His grandchild Thomas by his son Henry which Henry was the first of our English Nobility that grac'd his high birth with the ornaments of Learning being attainted of High-Treason for endeavouring a match with Mary Queen of Scots and in the year 1572. beheaded See in the Adages of Hadr. Juu. Achilleum votum was the last D. of Norfolk From which time his posterity has as it were lay dead but now by the favour and bounty of K. James begins to revive and flourish again There are in this County about 660 Parish-Churches ADDITIONS to NORFOLK THE County of Norfolk is so call'd from its Northern situation with respect to the rest of the East-Angles whereof it was a part Our Author recommends it for its being very populous having as he observes 27 markets and 625 villages But if we may trust the Book of Rates of Taxes to the King the esteem it hath upon that account may be rais'd much higher for there we find 32 markets and 711 villages whether Mr. Camden was mistaken in the number or this increase have been since his time I dare not say What he has observ'd of its being a Nursery of Lawyers as it is confirm'd by many instances so particularly by the great Sir Henry Spelman from whom Spede confesses he receiv'd his description of Norfolk After that he drew up an entire description of this his native County and upon his authority principally depends the greatest part of the following remarks a To begin with our Author Thetford Thetford is no doubt the ancient Sitomagus but whether that be corruptly written Simomagus and Sinomagus is not so certain as to bear a positive assertion It is worth the while to consider whether there is not something in these names which should imply its being the Capital city of the Iceni If we take Simomagus Ptolemy's Simeni for so he names the people of those parts does something favour it and Sinomagus comes nearer the name Iceni especially if we may suppose the I cast away as in Hispani Spani Besides Caesar's calling this people Cenimagni which Camden finding them distinctly read Ceni Agni is of opinion should be read Iceni Regni farther confirms this conjecture b As to the relation which Mr. Camden discovers between the initial of the old and present names Sit and Thet and from thence concludes that the modern name is compounded of the remains of the Roman and the Saxon ford there is no grounds for it For the old Saxon name was Ãeod-ford not as Mr. Camden writes it Ãeotford the similitude of t and d probably creating a mistake in some old Copies which plainly signifies a ford of the people This town was famous for being a seat of the Kings of the East-Angles but whether that fortification with a double trench was the work of the Saxons our Author leaves to the judgment of others That incomparable Antiquary Spelman thinks it was done by the Danes who made so considerable a figure in those parts because the camps of both Romans and Saxons are generally observ'd to be much larger An anonymous Author quoted by * Antiq. Cant. p. 148. Caius tells us there was formerly a Great-School or Nursery of Learning in this place It may possibly be the same which †Hist Eccl. l. 3. c. 18. Bede hints to when he informs us how Sigebert after he was return'd home and settl'd in his kingdom built a school for the education of youth in imitation of what he had observ'd of that nature in France Whether this passage belongs to Thetford or Cambridge for the latter lays claim to it to advance its Antiquity is a point too large to be discuss'd here Notwithstanding the eminency of the place which besides the seat of the East-Saxon Kings the Bishops-See and 8 Monasteries have entail'd upon it a thing perhaps that few cities can boast of yet in 9 Edw 1. it was neither city
of Crowland 1109. Abbot Joffred sent over to his manour of Cotenham nigh Cambridge Gislebert his fellow-Monk and Divinity-Professor with three other Monks who follow'd him into England well furnish'd with Philosophical Theorems and other primitive Sciences and daily repair'd to Cambridge there they hir'd a publick barn made open profession of their Sciences and in a little time drew a great number of scholars together In less than two years time their number increas'd so much from the country as well as town that there was never a House Barn or Church big enough to hold them all Upon which they dispers'd themselves in several parts of the town imitating the University of Orleans For soon in the morning Frier Odo an excellent Grammarian and Satyrick-Poet read Grammar to the boys and younger sort according to the Doctrine of Priscian and Remigius upon him At one of clock Terricus a subtile Sophister read Aristotle 's Logick to the elder sort according to Porphyry's and Averroe 's Introductions and Comments At three of clock Frier William read Lectures in Tully's Rhetorick and Quintilian's Flores and Gislebert the principal Master preach'd to the people upon all Sundays and Holy-days Thus from this small fountain we see large flowing streams making glad the City of God and enriching the whole kingdom by many Masters and Teachers coming out of Cambridge as from the holy Paradice c. Concerning the time when it was first made an University Robert of Remington shall speak for me †The learned Selden MSS. Notes has observ'd that in Pat. 52. Hen. 3. memb 25. it is call'd Universitas Scolarium In the reign of Edward 1. Grantbridge from a School was made an University like Oxford by the Court of Rome But why do I so inconsiderately run into the lists where two such learned old men have formerly encounter'd to whom I freely deliver up my arms and pay all the respect and honour I am able to such venerable persons Cambridge Meridian is 23 degr and 25 min. from the west g According to later computation about 52 degr and about 17 minutes and the Arch of the same Meridian between the Equator and Vertical point is 52 degr and 11 min. w 2 Cam from Cambridge continuing his course by Waterbeach an ancient seat of Nuns which Lady Mary S. Paul translated from thence to Denny somewhat higher but nothing healthfuller when in a low ground he hath spread a Mere associateth himself with the river Ouse Hard by Cambridge to the South-East are certain high hills by the Students call'd Gogmagog-hills Gogmagog Hills by Henry of Huntingdon the most pleasant hills of Balsham from a village at the foot of them where as he says the Danes committed all the Barbarities imaginable On the top of all I saw there a fort A Fort. of considerable bigness strengthned with a threefold trench and impregnable in those days according to the opinion of several judicious warriors were it not for its want of water and some believe it was a Summer retreat either of the Romans or the Danes This seems to be the place that Gervase of Tilbury calls Vandelbiria Below Cambridge says he Wandlesbury there was a place call'd Vandelbiria because the Vandals when they ruin'd some parts of Britain and cruelly destroy'd the Christians did there encamp themselves pitching their tents upon the top of a little hill where lyes a plain surrounded with trenches with only one entrance and that like a gate As for his Martial Ghosts walking here which he mentions I shall say nothing of them because it looks like a foolish idle story of the fantastick Mob It 's none of our business as one says to tickle mens ears with plausible stories x In a valley nigh these hills lyes Salston Salston which fell to Sir John Nevill Marquess of Mont-acute from the Burghs of Burgh-green by Walter de la Pole and the Ingalthorps and by his daughter the sole heiress to the Huddlestons who liv'd here in great credit More Eastward we meet with Hildersham belonging formerly to the Bustlers but now by marriage to the Parises and next to the Woods stands Horsheath Horsheath which is known for many Descents to belong to the ancient and noble families of the Argentons and Arlingtons which I g See in Suffolk under the title Halesworth and in Hertford shire under the title Wimondley mention'd in another place and is now the seat of the latter Next this lies Castle-camps Castle-camps the ancient seat of the Veres Earls of Oxford held by Hugh Vere says the old Inquisition records that he might be Chamberlain to the King However 't is most certain that Hen. 1. granted this Office to Aubry de Vere Cameraria Angliae Lord gâ—eat Chamberlain in these words Chief Chamberlain of England in fee and hereditarily with all the powers privileges and honours belonging thereto with as much freedom and worship as ever Robert Mallet held it c. However the Kings at their own pleasure have appointed sometimes one and sometimes another to execute this Office 3 The Earls of Oxford also that I may note it incidently by the heir of R Sandford held the manours of Fingrey and Wâ—lfelmeston by Serjeanty of Chambâ—rlainship to the Queens at the Coronation of their Kings Not far off there are the remains of those great and large Ditches which were undoubtedly thrown up by the East-Angles to prevent the incursions of the Mercians who frequently ruin'd all before them Flems-dyke and others The first begins at Hingeston and runs eastward by Hildersham towards Horsheath for 5 miles together The second next to it call'd Brent-Ditch runs from Melborne by Fulmer But 't is now time to return and leave these and the like frontier-fences to be spoke of in their proper places Sturbridge-Fair Nigh Cambridge to the east by a small brook call'd Sture yearly in September there is the most famous Fair kept in all the Kingdom both for resort of people and quantity of goods Just by it where the ways were exceeding troublesome and almost impassable that worthy right-honest Gentleman h i.e. Gabriel Hâ—rvy but the Causey was made by Henry Hâ—rvy Doctor of Law who was Master of Trinity-hall which Gabriel never was See Wood's Fasti of the 1. vol. of Athenae Oxen. under the year 1585. G. Hervy Doctor of Laws and Master of Trinity-Hall in Cambridge with vast charge out of a pious and laudable design has lately made a very fair rais'd Causey for about 3 miles long leading to New-market At the end of this Causey there is a third Ditch Ditches thrown up in old time beginning at the east side of the Cam which runs by Fenn-Ditton or rather Ditchton from the foremention'd Ditch between great Wilberham and Fulburn as far as Balsham At present it is commonly call'd Seven-mile-Dyke because it lies seven miles from New-market formerly call'd Fleam-Dyke Fleam-ditch as much
be made toll-free in all places saith Ely book freed it from that burthen of watching and warding the duty it ow'd to Norwich-Castle He made the way from Exning to Ely above six miles through the fens 5 He began the fair Palace at Ely for his successors and purchas'd many a fair estate for the Church s use His successors by lessening the number of Monks for from 70 they brought 'em to 40 and by the plenty of all things overflow'd with wealth and riches even till our fathers days and their Holydays and Festivals were always celebrated with such great provisions and pomp that they won the prize in that point from all the Monasteries in England Whence a Poet in those times not improperly says Praevisis aliis Eliensia festa videre Est quasi praevisa nocte videre diem After all others see but Ely's feast You 'll see glad day when tedious night is past The Cathedral also which began to totter with age they built by degrees and brought it to that magnificence it now has 't is a spacious stately and beautiful structure but somewhat defac'd by shamefully breaking down the Noblemens and Bishops tombs Now instead of the full Convent of Monks there is a Dean Prebendaries and a Free-school for the teaching and maintaining 24 boys m In Ely the Bishop has a stately Palace built of late years there are four things about this Church much talk'd of by the common people the Lantern on the top of all just over the Quire supported by eight pillars with singular art hung by John de Hothum the Bishop St. Mary's Chapel standing under the Church to the North a delicate piece of work built by Simon Montacute Bishop a great round heap of earth and very high call'd The Mount on the South-side where a Wind-mill stands lastly a famous fruitful Vine which is now wither'd Which four were joyn'd together in these Rhimes by a certain Monk of the place Haec sunt Eliae Lanterna Capella Mariae Atque Molendinum necnon dans vinea Vinum Saint Mary's Chapel you at Ely see The lofty Lantern rival of the sky The Mill and Vine that bread and drink supply As for Ely it self it is a pretty large city but not much remarkable either for beauty or populousness by reason of its fenny situation and unwholesom air 6 Although it be seated somewhat higher Near to it is Downham where the Bishop hath his residing house with a Park Near to Downham is Cowney the ancientest seat of the family sirnam'd for their habitation here Lisle and De Insula and first planted here by Nigellus the second Bishop of Ely their allie in the time of King Henry 1. as is set down in a Leiger-book of Ely Chateries or Cheaterich is not far hence westward where Alwena a devout woman founded a Nunnery upon a copped ground encompass'd with fens while her husband founded Ramsey z Amidst the same fens to the North-west was a famous Abby from its standing among thorns and bushes call'd Thorney Thorney formerly Ankerige from the Anchorites dwelling there where Sexuulph a very religious devout man as it is in Peterborough-book founded a Monastery with Hermits Cells It was afterwards ruin'd by the Danes but Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester to encourage the Monastick way of living rebuilt it stor'd it with Monks and encompass'd it with trees This place says Malmsbury is the very picture of Paradise for pleasantness resembling Heaven it self amidst the very marshes fruitful in trees whose straight tapering tallness emulates the stars a plain smooth as water charms your eyes with pleasing green where 's no rub to stop the swiftest pace There 's not an inch of ground uncultivated here a place swelling with apple-trees there a field overspread with vines either creeping upon the ground or climbing up poles to support them A mutual strife there is between nature and husbandry that one may always supply what the other forgets What shall I say of the beauty of the buildings to be admir'd if it were only for the fenns making such solid and unshaken foundations It is a wonderful solitary and retir'd place fit indeed for Monks it makes them more mindful of heavenly things and more mortify'd to things below 'T is a prodigy to see a woman here and when but a man comes he 's welcom'd like an Angel So that I may truly call this Isle a Lodge for Chastity an Harbour for Honesty and a School for Divine Philosophy Wisbich Wisbich the Bishop of Ely's castle stands about 13 miles off situated among fens and rivers and lately made a prison for the Romish Priests I have nothing more to say of it but only that this Town and Walepole Walepole were both given to Ely-Monastery by the owner of them at the same time that he dedicated his little son Alwin to a monkish life that William the first erected a castle here when the out-laws made their incursions from these fenny parts and that in the year 1236 the tempestuous waves for two days so violently broke in upon this shore that it drown'd both land and people all about But the Brick-castle that is still there was built by John Morton Bishop of Ely in our grandfathers days who also drew a straight ditch through this fenny Country call'd Newleame Newleame for the better convenience of water-carriage and for encreasing the trade and wealth of this his town tho' indeed it hapn'd to the contrary for it is but of small use and the neighbours mightily complain that this has quite stop'd the course of the Avon or Nen into the Sea by Clowcross Clowcrâ—ss The first Earl of Cambridge Earls of Cambridge was William brother of Ranulph Earl of Chester as may be seen by a Patent of Alexander Bishop of Lincoln dated 1139. After him 't is probable that those Earls of Huntingdon that were of the royal blood of Scotland were likewise Earls of Cambridge for it appears from the publick records of the kingdom That David Earl of Huntingdon receiv'd the third penny of the County of Cambridge A long time after John of Hainault brother to William third Earl of Holland and Hainault was advanc'd to this dignity by Edward 3. for the sake of Queen Philippa whose Kinsman he was For her sake also he honour'd William Marquiss of Juliers her sister's son with the same title after John had revolted and gone over to the French After the decease of these Forreigners King Edward 3. settled this Honour upon his fifth son Edmund of Langley which after he had held four years I have my authority from an old manuscript belonging to that admirable Antiquary Francis Thinn The Earl of Hainault Queen Philippa's Cousin came and openly claim'd it in Parliament but he return'd satisfy'd at last This Edmund of Langley afterwards Duke of York had two Sons Edward Duke of York for a while Earl of Cambridge and slain in the battel of Agincourt and
occasion to derive it from hay seem to lye under the same inconvenience in that the soil does not favour either of these or at least not so much as to render the place eminent for them I would not willingly go any farther than the Saxon heah deep the remains whereof our Northern parts still retain in their how which they use for deep or low and the breakings in of the sea with the banks made against it sufficiently declare how much the nature of the place contributes towards this conjecture c Upon the confines of Norfolk lyes Tydd Tydd a small village but famous for the once Rector of it Nicholas Breakspear who planted Christianity in Norway for which good service to the Church he was afterwards made Cardinal and in the year 1154 Pope under the name of Hadrian the fourth d To endeavour the discovery of any thing that looks like Roman hereabouts would be a search as fruitless as unreasonable and for its condition in the Saxon times Ingulphus fully answers that whose history no doubt is the best intelligence for those parts For which reasons we shall take leave of it and go along with our Author into the second part of this County having first observ'd that this as well as Lindsey division has had its Earls and gave title to Henry Rich Lord Kensington created Earl of Holland Apr. 3. 22 Jac. 1. He was succeeded by Robert his son who had the additional title of Earl of Warwick by the death of Charles Rich Earl of that place his Cousin-german Whereupon both titles are at present enjoy'd by the right honourable Edward Rich stil'd Earl of Warwick and Holland e Kesteven Kesteven Mr. Camden observes is call'd by Aethelwerd Ceostefne Sylva the wood Ceostefne The reason of it is this because there was really a great forest at this end of the division where now are the large fenns call'd Deeping-Fenns c. A plain argument whereof is that the trunks of trees are dugg up in several ditches thereabouts which lye cover'd some two foot with a light black mold And Mr. Neal to whom the world is indebted for this and other discoveries in this County tells me that in a ditch of his own just at the edge of the fenns there was about 12 years ago several trunks of trees lying in the bottom and in another place as many acorns turn'd out of one hole as would fill a hat very firm and hard but colour'd black and now there is no tree standing near that place by a mile except here and there a willow lately set The same Gentleman assures me he has by him the copy of the Exemplification of the Letters Patents of Jac. 1. dated at Westminster Febr. 15. in the fifth of his reign over England and over Scotland the 41. wherein he recites by way of Inspeximus the Letters Patents of Henry 3. dated at Portsmouth the 23d of April in the 14th of his reign who thereby disafforested the said forest of Kesteven in perpetuum which was also confirm'd by the Letters Patents of Edward the third in the 20th of his reign wherein the said forest is butted and bounded to extend on one side from Swafton to East-Deeping as Caresdike extends it self which is a dike running cross the top of the Fenns not only of Deeping-Fenn but also of that great fenn beyond the river Glen call'd Lindsey-level and on the other side it extends to the division call'd Holland f Having made our way into this division by a previous account why some old Authors call it a wood or forest whereas now there appearing no such thing the readers might be surpriz'd let us accompany Mr. Camden to Stanford Stanford the first remarkable place we meet with As to the Antiquity of it our English Historians afford us very large testimonies Henry Huntingdon lib. 5. pag 203. in his description of the wars between Edmund Ironside and the Danes calls it an ancient city and Ingulphus p. 515. tells us there were Terms held at Stamford and Hoveden in the book of Crowland p. 249. calls it Stamfordshire being a County-town and very commodious it is for that use this end of Lincolnshire adjoyning to it being 36 miles from Lincoln and the end of Northamtonshire next it on that side no less from Northamton which distance is a great inconvenience to the inhabitants so often as their business calls them to the Assizes Stow p. 131. tells us there was a Mint for coyning of money in Stamford-Baron in the time of King Athelstan but this probably was some privilege granted to the Abbots of Peterburrow for this is that parish that 's within Northamtonshire and is within a distinct liberty granted to the Abbots of Peterburrow g Mr. Neal before-mention'd has an old Manuscript fragment of an history that says Stamford was an University long before our Saviour's time and continued so till the year 300 when it was dissolv'd by the Pope for adhering to Arrius For the first founder of it that Author quotes Merlin a British Historian But whatever deference we pay to the authority of the History from the circumstances it seems pretty plain as the same Gentleman has observ'd that it must be of longer date than Ed. 3. For upon that quarrel mention'd by Mr. Camden which happen'd between the Southern and Northern Scholars the latter it seems came hither in Nov. 1333. and return'd to Oxford before 1334. so that their short stay could not allow them any great opportunities for building But here are still the remains of two Colleges one call'd Black-hall and the other Brazen-noze in the gate whereof is a great brazen Nose and a ring through it like that at Oxford And 't is evident that this did not take its pattern from Oxford but Oxford from it because Brazen-nose College in Oxford was not built before the reign of Henry the seventh and this is at least as old as Edw. 3. or probably older h So much for the University there The government of the town Mr. Camden tells us An Alderman and 24 Câ—â—burgâ—ers is by an Alderman and 24 Comburgenses When this begun is not so certain being much elder than the first Charter they have For there is a list of sixty upon the Court-Roll sworn there before the Incorporation viz. from 1398. to 1460. the first year of Edward the fourth So that Edward the fourth by his Charter seems rather to confirm an old custom than establish a new one 'T is very observable here that they have the Custom which Littleton the famous Common-Lawyer calls Burrough English Burroâ—g Eng â—â— viz. the younger sons inherit what Lands or Tenements their fathers dye possess'd of within this Manour i My Lord Burghley founded a Hospital here but when Mr. Camden says he is bury'd in the Parish-Church of S. George in Stamford it is a mistake for he lyes in S. Martin's Church in Stamford-Barron which is in Northamptonshire k After the death of
for she was married to Walter de Beauchamp whom King Stephen made Constable of England when he displaced Miles Earl of Glocester Within a few years after K. Stephen made Walleran Earl of Mellent 6 Twin-brother brother to Robert Bossu Robert de Monte. Earl of Leicester the first Earl of Worcester and gave him the City of Worcester which Walleran became a Monk and died at Preaux in Normandy in the year 1166. His son Robert who married the daughter of Reginald Earl of Cornwall and set up the standard of Rebellion against Hen. 2. and Peter the son of Robert who revolted to the French in 1203. used only the title of Earl of Mellent as far as I have observed and not of Worcester For K. Hen. 2. who succeeded Stephen did not easily suffer any to enjoy those honours under him which they had received from his enemy For as the Annals of the Monastery of Waverley have it he deposed the titular and pretended Earls among whom K. Stephen had indiscreetly distributed all the Revenues of the Crown After this till the time of K. Rich. 2. I know of none who bore the title of Earl of Worcester He conferred it upon Thomas Percy who being slain in the Civil wars by Hen. 4. Richard Beauchamp descended from the Abtots received this honour from K. Hen. 5. After him who died without heirs male John Tiptoft Lord Lieutenant of Ireland was created Earl of Worcester by K. Hen. 6. And he presently after siding with Edward 4. and accommodating himself with a blind obedience to the humour of that Prince became the Executioner of his vengeance till he in like manner lost his own head when Hen. 6. was restored But K. Edward having recovered the Crown restored Edward Tiptoft his son to all again He died without issue and the estate was divided among the sisters of that John Tiptoft who was Earl of Worcester Orig. 1 H. 7. R. 36. who were married to the Lord Roos Lord Dudley and Edmund Ingoldsthorp whereupon Charles Somerset natural son of Henry Duke of Somerset was honoured with that title by K. Hen. 8. to whom in a direct line have succeeded Henry William and Edward who is now living and among his other vertuous and noble qualities is to be honoured as a great Patron of good literature This County hath 152 Parishes ADDITIONS to WORCESTERSHIRE a AFTER the Britains were expell'd this nation by the Conquering Saxons they retir'd beyond the Severn and defended their new Territories against the encroaching Enemy So that the County of Worcester with those other through which that large river runs were for a long time the frontiers between the two people And * Breviar f. 26. p. 1. as Mr. Twine has observ'd most of the great cities that lye upon the East-shore of Severn and Dee were built to resist the irruptions of the Britains by the Romans or Saxons or both like as the Romans erected many places of strength on the West-shore of the Rhine to restrain the forcible invasions of the Germans into France b The people of those parts in Bede's time before England was divided into Counties were as our Author observes term'd Wiccii as also were some of their neighbours But the great question is how far that name reach'd the solution whereof is not attempted by Mr. Camden They seem to have inhâ—bited all that tract which was anciently subject to the Bishops of Worcester that is all Glocestershire on the East-side Severn with the city of Bristol all Worcestershire except 16 parishes in the North-west-part lying beyond Aberley-hills and the river Teme and near the South-half of Warwickshire with Warwick-town For as under the Heptarchy at first there was but one Bishop in each kingdom and the whole realm was his Diocese so upon the subdividing the kingdom of Mercia into five Bishopricks An. Dom. 679. of which Florentius Wigorniensis saith Wiccia was the first doubtless the Bishop had the entire Province under his jurisdiction and accordingly he was stil'd Bishop of the Wiccians and not of Worcester This will appear more probable yet from a passage in †P. 559. edit Lond. quarto Florentius who saith that Oshere Vice-Roy of the Wiccians perswaded Aethelred King of Mercia to make this division out of a desire that the Province of Wiccia which he govern'd with a sort of Regal power might have the honour of a Bishop of its own This being effected his See was at Worcester the Metropolis of the Province which according to ‖ Hist Ecel lib. 2. cap. 2. Bede border'd on the Kingdom of the West-Saxons that is Wiltshire and Somersetshire and Coteswold-hills lye in it which in Eadgar's Charter to Oswald is call'd Mons Wiccisca or Wiccian-hill tho' * Concil Tom. 1. p. 433. Spelman reads it corruptly Monte Wittisca and the †Monast Angl. T. 1. p. 140. Monasticon more corruptly Wibisca Moreover Sceorstan which possibly is the Shire-stone beyond these hills is said by ‖ Flor. p. 385. 4o. Florentius to be in Wiccia c Having premi's thus much concerning the ancient Inhabitants of those parts let us next with Mr. Camden go thorow the County it self In the very North-point whereof lies Stourbridge Stourbridge so nam'd from the river Stour upon which it stands a well-built market-town and of late much enrich'd by the iron and glass-works King Edward the sixth sounded and liberally endow'd a Grammar-school here and in our time near this place the pious munificence of Tho. Foley Esq erected a noble Hospital and endow'd it with Lands for the maintenance and education of 60 poor Children chosen mostly out of this and some neighbour parishes They are instructed in Grammar Writing Arithmetick c. to fit them for trades Their habit and discipline are much like that of Christ's Hospital in London d Going along with the Stour not far from its entrance into the Severn we meet with Kidderminster Kidderminster famous for the Bissets Lords of it part of whose estate Mr. Camden tells us upon a division came to an Hospital in Wiltshire built for Lepers This was Maiden-Bradley * Monast Angl. Tom. 2. p. 408. which was built by Manser Bisset in King Stephen's time or the beginning of Henr. 2. and endow'd by him and his son Henry long before the estate was divided among daughters †Dugd Baronage T. 1. p. 632. For that hapned not till the year 1241. so that the Tradition of the Leprous Lady is a vulgar fable e Leaving this river our next guide is the Severn upon which stands Holt-castle Holt castlâ—â— now the inheritance of the Bromleys descended from Sir Thomas Bromley Lord Chancellor of England in the middle of Queen Elizabeth's reign A little below Salwarp enters the Severn not far from the first lies Grafton Grafton which Mr. Camden tells us was given to Gilbert Talbot and that hapned upon the attainder of Humfrey Stafford Brook's Cataloguâ— of
we Wreckceter and Wroxceter Wroxceâ— It was the Metropolis of the Cornavii and built probably by the Romans when they fortify'd the bank of the Severn which is only here fordable and not any where lower towards the mouth of it but this being shatter'd by the Saxon war was quite destroy'd in that of the Danes and is now a very little village inhabited only by country-people who frequently plow up ancient coins that bear witness of it's antiquity Here is nothing to be seen of it but a very few reliques of broken walls call'd by the people m This stands near the midst of the city being about 20 foot high and 100 in length The old works of Wroxceter which were built of hewn stone and laid in ‖ Septeâ—plici Britâ—nicarum dine seven rows 15 In equal distance arch'd within after the fashion of the Britains That where these are was formerly a castle is probable from the unevenness of the ground heaps of earth and here and there the rubbish of walls The plot where this city stood which is no small spot of ground is a blacker earth than the rest and yields the largest crops of the best barley g Below this city went that Roman military high-way call'd Watlingstreet either thro' a ford or over a bridge to the Strattons Stratton before mention'd which name imports they were Towns seated by the high-way the foundation of which bridge was lately discover'd a little above in setting a Wear for so they call a fishing damme in the river but now there is no track of the Way h This ancient name of Viroconium is more manifestly retain'd by a neighbouring mountain call'd Wreken-hill Wrekenhâ— by some Gilbert's-hill which gradually falls into a pleasant level and yields an entertaining prospect of the plains about it n It stands about a mile from Wroxeter and is the highest ground of all the Country thereabout Leland's Itin. This hill shoots it self out pretty far in length is well set with trees and under it where Severn visits it with it's streams at Buldewas commonly call'd Bildas Bildas was formerly a noted Monastery the burying-place of the Burnels a famous family and Patrons of it Above it is a Lodge call'd Watling-street from it's situation upon the publick Street or military high-way and hard by are the reliques of Dalaley-castle â—alaley which upon the banishment of Richard Earl of Arundel King Rich. 2. by Act of Parliament did annex to the Principality of Chester which he had erected Not far from the foot of this hill in the depth of the valley by that Roman military high-way is Okenyate â—kenyate a small village of some note for the pit-coal which by reason of it's low situation and that distance which Antoninus says Us-ocona is both from Uriconium and Pennocrucium undoubtedly must be the same with o Written also according to the variety of Copies Usoccona and Uxacona Burton's Itinerar Us-ocona â—s-ocona Nor does the name make against the conjecture for it is compounded of the word Ys which in Welsh signifies Low and seems to be added to express its lowly situation On the other side under this hill appears Charleton-castle anciently belonging to the Charletons â—harleton Lords of Powis and more eastward towards Staffordshire is Tong-castle 〈◊〉 formerly Toang repair'd not long since by the Vernons as likewise was the College within the town which the Penbriges as I have read first founded The inhabitants boast of nothing more than a great bell famous in those parts for its bigness Hard by stands Albrighton which in the reign of King Edward 1. was the seat of 16 Sir Ralph Ralph de Pichford â—ichford but now belongs to the Talbots who are descended from the Earls of Shrewsbury 17 But above Tong was Lilleshul-Abbey in a wood-land Country founded by the family of Beaumeis whose heir was marry'd into the house of De la Zouch But seeing there is little left but ruins I will leave it and proceed On the other side of the river Tern lies Draiton â—raiton upon the very banks of it where during the Civil wars between the houses of Lancaster and York was a battel fought very fatal to the Gentry of Cheshire for tho' Victory neither turn'd her balance on the one side or the other yet they being divided and adhering to both parties were cut off in great numbers Lower down and pretty near the Tern lies Hodnet formerly inhabited by Gentlemen of that name from whom by the Ludlows it hereditarily fell to the Vernons 〈◊〉 Ed. 2. It was formerly held of the Honour of Montgomery by the service of being Steward of that Honour The Tern after that passing by some small villages is joyn'd by a rivulet call'd Rodan and after it has run a few miles farther near Uriconium before spoken of it falls into the Severn Not far from the head of this river Rodan stands Wem â—em where may be seen the p There is nothing now to be seen but the bank upon which it stood marks of an intended castle It was the Barony of William Pantulph about the beginning of the Norman times from whose posterity it came at length to the Butlers and from them by the Ferrers of Ouseley and the Barons of Greystock to the Barons Dacre of Gillesland q The tile of this Barony was given by K. James 2. to Sir George Jeffreys Lord Chancellour of England and is now descended to his son to whom the manour and Royalty of it do belong A little distant from this upon a woody hill or rather rock which was anciently call'd Rad-cliff stood a castle upon a very high ground call'd from the reddish stone Red-castle â—ed-castle and by the Normans Castle Rous heretofore the seat of the Audleys by the bounty of Mawd the Stranger or Le-strange but now there is nothing to be seen but decayed walls 18 Which yet make a fair shew Hol. But at present they make none some small tokens of it only remaining Scarce a mile off is a spot of ground where a small city once stood the very ruins of which are almost extinct but the Roman Coyns that are found there with such bricks as they us'd in building are evidence of its Antiquity and Founders The people of the neighbourhood call it Bery from Burgh and they affirm it to have been very famous in King Arthur's days 19 As the common sort ascribe whatsoever is ancient and strange to King Arthur's glory After that upon the same river appears Morton-Corbet 20 Anciently an house of the family of Turet â—orton-â—orbet â—astle a castle of the Corbets where within the memory of man Robert Corbet to gratifie the fancy he had for Architecture began a noble piece of building 21 In a barren place after the Italian model for his future magnificent and more splendid habitation but death countermanding his
the Monk the fish foretells it by it's own death some days before As to these things I have nothing to say to them for I pretend not to such mysterious knowledge but if they are true they must be done either by those blessed Spirits whom God has appointed Guardians and Keepers of us or else by the arts of the Devil Angels Devils whom God permits now and then to exert his power in this world For both of them are intelligent Beings and will not produce such preternatural things but upon design and to attain some end or other those ever pursuing the good and safety of mankind these ever attempting to delude us to vex us or to ruin us But this is foreign to my purpose A little after Croke is got beyond Brereton it comes to Middlewich Middlewich situated near its union with the Dan where there are two fountains of Salt-water separated from one another by a little brook which they call Sheaths The one of them is not open'd but at set times to prevent stealing away the water which is of a more peculiar virtue and excellence than the other Whence the Dan runs by Bostock Boâ—tock formerly Botestock the ancient seat of the noble and knightly family of the Bostocks which by marriage with Anne the only daughter of Ralph son and heir of Sir Adam de Bostock Kt. went together with a vast estate to 6 â—ir John John Savage Out of this ancient house of the Bostocks as out of a fruitful stock has sprung a numerous race of the same name which have spread themselves in Cheshire Shropshire Berkshire and other places Beneath Northwich the Dan unites it self with the Wever and then runs on to the West in a streight line and receives from the East Pever Pever that gives its name to the town Pever by which it passes This is the seat of that noble and ancient family the Meinilwarrens now commonly Manewaring one of which call'd Ralph marry'd the daughter of Hugh Kevelioc Earl of Chester as appears by an old Charter now in the hands of Ranulph the heir of this house The course of the Wever is next by Winnington which both gives seat and name to the famous and ancient family of the Winningtons and then runs at some little distance from Merbury which derives that name from a pool under it and gives the same to the famous family of the Merburies From hence the river runs near Dutton Dutton the estate of that worthy family the Duttons descended from one Hudardus who was related to the Earls of Chester This family by an old custom hath a particular authority over all Pipers Fidlers and Harpers of this County ever since one R. Dutton Chronicon Walliae an active young Gentleman of a great spirit with a rabble of such men rescued Ranulph the last Earl of Chester when he was beset by the Welsh and in danger of being besieg'd by them Nor must I forget to take notice of Nether-Whitley in these parts out of which came the Tuschetts or Towchetts Towchett who are Barons Audley of Healye Now the Wever flowing between Frodesham a castle of ancient note and Clifton at present call'd Rock-Savage Rock-Savage a new house of the Savages who by marriage have got a great estate here runs at last into the aestuary of the Mersey so call'd from the Mersey a river which running down between this County and Lancashire empties it self here after it has first passed by some inconsiderable towns and among the rest by Stockport which formerly had its Baron 7 Of the Earls of Châ—ster and Warburgton so nam'd of St. Werburgh the habitation of a Family thereof sirnam'd but branch'd from the Duttons and received the river Bollin which flows out of the large forest of Maclesfeld Maclesfeld wherein stands the town Maclesfeld 8 One of the fairest towns in this County from whence the forest has its name Here was a College founded by T. Savage first Bishop of London and then Arch-Bishop of York in which several of that noble family the Savages are buried and also Dunham which from 9 Sir Hamon Hamon de Mascy by the Fittons and Venables came hereditarily to the famous family of Booth From hence the Mersey goes on to Thelwall Thelwall before it is much past Knotsford i.e. Canutus's ford whereof there are two the Upper and the Lower and then Lee from whence there is a family of the same name famous not only for its gentile race but for the number of its branches As for Thelwall 't is now an obscure village tho' formerly a large city founded by King Edward the elder and so call'd as Florilegus witnesses from the trunks of trees fixed in the ground which instead of a wall inclosed it For the Saxons express the trunk of a tree by the word Dell and the Murus by wall as we do at this day Upon the mouth of this river stands f It is call'd in the Saxon Annals Rumcofan by Henry Huntingdon Rumcoven and by others Runcoven and Runcoâ—an Runckhorne Runckhorn built in the very same age by Ethelfleda 10 Commonly call'd Elfled and now likewise reduc'd to a few cottages Since I have so often mention'd this Edelfleda Ethelfleda or Elfleda it will not be improper to note that she was sister to King Edward the elder and wife to Ethelred a petty Prince of the Mercians and that after her husband's death she govern'd eight years in very troublesome times to her great praise and honour In Henry of Huntingdon there is this encomium of her O Elfleda potens ô terror virgo virorum Victrix naturae nomine digna viri Te quo splendidior fieres natura puellam Te probitas fecit nomen habere viri Te mutare decet sed solam nomina sexus Tu Regina potens Rexque trophaea parans Jam nec Caesarei tantum meruere triumphi Caesare splendidior virgo virago vale Victorious Elfled ever famous maid Whom weaker men and nature's self obey'd Nature your softer limbs for ease design'd But Heav'n inspir'd you with a manly mind You only Madam latest times shall sing A glorious Queen and a triumphant King Farewel brave Soul let Caesar now look down And yield thy triumphs greater than his own Below Runckhorne more within the County stands the town Haulton where there is a castle which Hugh Lupus Earl of Chester gave to Nigellus a certain Norman upon condition that he should be Constable of Chester by whose posterity afterwards it came to the house of Lancaster Nor must I here omit that William son of this Nigell founded a Monastery at Norton not far from hence a town now belonging to the Brokes an ancient family Whether I should place the Cangi here who are a people of the old Britains after much enquiry I cannot really determine g See Somersetshire under the title Canzi a people of Britain
of Archenfeld whenever the Army marches forward against the Enemy by custom make the Avauntward and in the return homeward the Rereward As the Munow runs along the lower pâ—rt of this County The river Wye so the Wye with a winding course cuts it in the middle upon which in the Western bounds stands Clifford-castle Cliffâ—rd-Castle which William Fitz-Osborn Earl of Hereford built upon his own Waste these are the very words of Domesday-book but Ralph de Todeny held it Clivus fortis It is suppos'd that it came afterwards to Walter the son of Richard Punt a Norman for his sirname was de Clifford and from him the illustrious family of the Cliffords Earls of Cumberland are originally descended But in King Edward the first 's time Inq. 26 E. 1. John Giffard held it who married the heir of Walter Clifford Thence the Wye with a crooked and winding stream rolls by Whitney which has given name to a noted family next by Bradwardin-Castle that gave both original and name to the famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury who for the great variety of his studies and his admirable proficiency in the most abstruse and hidden parts of learning was in that age honour'd with the title of * The Profound Dâ—ctor Doctor profundus At length it comes to Hereford the Metropolis of this County b How far that little Tract Arcenfeld reach'd I know not but the affinity between these names Ereinuc Arcenfeld the town Ariconium mention'd by Antonine in these parts and Hareford or Hereford Hereford the present Metropolis of this Shire have by little and little induc'd me to this opinion that they are every one deriv'd from Ariconium And yet I do not believe that Ariconium and Hereford were the same but as Basle in Germany has challeng'd the name of Augusta Rauracorum and Baldach in Assyria that of Babylon because as this had its original from the ruins of Babylon so that had its birth from those of Augusta so our Hariford for thus the common people call it had its name and beginning from its neighbour Ariconium as I am of opinion which at this day has no clear marks of a town having been destroyed as 't is reported by an Earthquake Only it still retains a slight shadow of the name being call'd Kenchester Kenchester and shews some ruins of old Walls call'd Kenchester Walls about which are often dug up stones of inlaid Checquer-work British bricks Roman coyns c. c But Hareford her daughter which carries more express remains of the name d stands eastward scarce three Italian miles from it amongst meadows extremely pleasant and corn-fields very fruitful encompass'd almost round about with rivers by an anonymous one on the north and west sides on the south by the Wye which hastens hither out of Wales It is supposed to have first sprung up when the Saxon Heptarchy was in its glory founded as some write by Edward the â—lder and indeed there is no mention of it more ancient For the Britains before the name of Hereford was known called the place Trefawith from Beech-trees and Henford from an Old way and the Saxons themselves Fern-leg of Fern. It owes if I mistake not it 's greatest encrease and growth to Religion and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert a King of the East-Angles who whilst in person he courted the daughter of Offa King of the Mercians was villanously way-laid and murmurder'd by Quendreda Offa's wife who longed more for the Kingdom of the East-Angles than to have her daughter honestly and honourably married He was hereupon registred in the Catalogue of Martyrs S 〈◊〉 Mâ—â—â—â— and had a Church here built and dedicated to him by Milfrid a petty King of the Country which being soon after adorn'd with a Bishop's See grew very rich first by the liberality of the Mercian afterwards of the West-Saxon Kings For they at length were possessed of this City as may be gathered from William of Malmesbury where he writes that Athelstan the West-Saxon forc'd the Princes of Wales in this City to comply with such hard conditions as to pay him tribute besides hounds and hawks 20 pound weight of gold and 300 pound of silver every year This city as far as I have observ'd by reading had never any misfortune unless it were in the year of our Lord 1055. when Gryffin Prince of South-Wales and Algar an Englishman rebelling against Edward the Confessor after they had routed Earl Ralph sacked the City destroy'd the Cathedral and carried away captive Leofgar the Bishop But Harold having soon quieted their bold rebellion fortified it as Floriacensis informs us with a broad and high Rampire Upon this account it is that Malmesbury ‖ Lib â— Pâ—â—â—â— writes thus Hereford is no great City and yet by the high and formidable ruins of its steep and broken Bulwarks it shews it has been some great thing and as it appears by Domesday book there were in all but 103 men within and without the walls The Normans afterwards built a very large and strong Castle on the east-side of the Cathedral along the river Wye the work as some report of Earl Miles but now ruin'd by time and falling to decay e Afterwards they wall'd the City about In the reign of King Hen. 1. was founded by Bishop Reinelm that beautiful Church now to be seen which his successors enlarged by adding to it a neat College and fine houses for the Prebendaries For besides the Bishop who has 302 Churches in his Diocese there are in this Church a Dean two Archdeacons a Praecentor a Chancellour a Treasurer and 28 Prebendaries I saw in it scarce any monuments besides those of the Bishops and I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop a person nobly born had here a stately and magnificent tomb who being canonized for his holiness wanted little of out-shining the Royal Martyr Ethelbert so great was the opinion of his piety and devotion f According to Geographers the Longitude of this City is 20 degrees 24 minutes Lat. 52 degrees 6 min. g The Wye has scarce gone three miles from this City when he intercepts the river Lug which having run with a rapid stream down from Radnor-Hills with a still course glides through this Province from the north-west to the south-east h At the first entrance it has a distant prospect of Brampton Brian a Castle which a famous family hence sirnam'd de Brampton Brampton Brian whose christian name was usually Brian held by a continual succession to the time of King Edward 1. then by female-heirs it came to R. Harley But it has a nearer view of Wigmore Wigmore in Saxon b Wigingamere in the Saxon Annals Wynginga-mere repair'd in ancient times by King Edw. the elder afterwards fortify'd with a Castle by William Earl of Hereford in the wast of a ground for so it is in Domesday book which was called Marestun in the tenure of Randulph de Mortimer from
title of Aber Gavenni upon which the majority of voices gave it the heir-male And when he had again proposed Whether the title of Baron Le Despenser Baroness le Despenser should be conferr'd on the female and her heirs they unanimously agreed to it to which his Majesty gave his Royal Assent And Edward Nevil was soon after summon'd to Parliament by the King 's Writ under the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni And being according to the usual ceremony introduc'd in his Parliament-Robe between two Barons he was placed above the Baron de Audeley At the same time also the King's Patent was read before the Peers whereby his Majesty restored rais'd preferred c. Mary Fane to the state degree title stile name honour and dignity of Baroness le Despenser Baroness le Despenser and that her heirs successively should be Barens le Despenser c. But the question of precedency being proposed the Peers referr'd the decision thereof to the Commissioners for the office of Earl Marshal of England who signâ—d their Verdict for the Barony of le Despenser This was read before the Peers and by their order register'd in the Parliament Diary out of which I have taken this account in short What ought not to be omitted is that John Hastings held this Castle by homage ward and marriage 6 Edw. 2. When it happens as we read in the Inquisition and if there should chance any war between the King of England and Prince of Wales he ought to defend the Country of Over-went at his own charges to the utmost of his power for the good of himself the King and Kingdom The second town call'd by Antoninus Burrium Burrium who places it 12 miles from Gobannium is seated where the river Byrdhin falls into Usk. 'T is call'd now in British by a transposition of letters Brynbiga for Burenbegi and also Kaer-ŵysk by Giraldus Castrum Oskae and in English Usk. Usk. It shews now only the ruins of a large strong Castle pleasantly seated between the river Usk and Oilwy a small brook which takes its course from the east by Ragland a stately castle-like house of the Earl of Worcester's and passes under it The third City call'd by Antoninus Isca Isca and Legio secunda seated on the other side of the river Usk and distant as he observes exactly 12 Italian miles from Burrium is câ—ll'd by the Britains Kaer Lheion and Kaer Lheion ar ŵysk Kaer Lheion ar Wysk which signifies the City of the Legion on the river Usk from the Legio Secunda Augusta called also Britannica secunda This Legion instituted by Augustus and translated out of Germany into Britain by Claudius under the conduct of Vespasian to whom upon his aspiring to the Empire it prov'd serviceable and also secur'd him the British Legions was placed here at length by Julius Frontinus as seems probable in garrison against the Silures How great a City this Isca was at that time our Giraldus informs us in his Itinerary of Wales A very ancient city this was saith he and enjoy'd honourable privileges elegantly built by the Romans with * The câ—â—cuit â—f 〈◊〉 walls aâ—â— 3 miles Enderoy brick walls There are yet remaining many footsteps of its ancient splendour stately palaces which formerly with their gilded Tiles emulated the Roman grandeur for that it was at first built by the Roman nobility and adorn'd with sumptuous edifices an exceeding high tower remarkable hot †An. 16â—â— hot baâ—â—s were dâ—â—â—ver'd 〈◊〉 S. Julâ—aâ— the brâ—â—â— equilateâ—â—ly squâ—â—â— about 〈◊〉 inch tâ—â— like thâ—â— at S. Aâ—â—â—â— Mr. Aâ—â—â— baths ruins of ancient temples theatrical places encompass'd with stately walls which are partly yet standing Subterraneous edifices are frequently met with not only within the walls but also in the suburbs aqueducts vaults and which is well worth our observation Hypocausts or stoves contriv'd with admirable artifice conveying heat insensibly through some very narrow vents on the sides Two very eminent and next to St. Alban and Amphibalus the chief Protomartyrs of Britannia major lye entombed here where they were crown'd with martyrdom viz. Julius and Aaron who had also Churches dedicated to them in this City For in ancient times there were three noble Churches here One of Julius the Martyr grac'd with a Quire of Nuns devoted to God's service another dedicated to St. Aaron his companion ennobled with an excellent order of Canons and the third honour'd with the Metropolitan See of Wales Amphibalus also teacher of St. Alban who sincerely instructed him in the Faith was born here This City is excellently well seated on the navigable river Usk and beautified with meadows and woods Here the Roman Embassadors received their audience at the illustrious court of that great King Arthur And here also the Archbishop Dubricius resign'd that honour to David of Menevia by translating the Archiepiscopal See from this City thither Thus far Giraldus But in confirmation of the antiquity of this place I have taken care to add some ancient Inscriptions lately dug up there and communicated to me by the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin Lord Bishop of Landaff a lover of venerable antiquity and all other good literature In the year 1602. some labourers digging in a meadow adjoyning found on a checquer'd pavement a statue of a person in a short-truss'd habit with a Quiver and Arrows the head hands and feet broken off and also the fragment of an Altar with this Inscription of fair large characters about three inches long erected by Haterianus Lieutenant-General of Augustus and Propraetor of the Province of Cilicia 〈…〉 HATERIANVS LEG AVG PR PR PROVINC CILIC The next year was discover'd also this Inscription which shews the Statue before mention'd to have been of the Goddess Diana and that Titus Flavius Posthumius Varus perhaps of the fifth Cohort of the second Legion had repair'd her Temple a Id est Titus Flavius Postumius Varus quintae Cohortis Legionis Secundae Augustae Templum Dianae restituit T. FL. POSTVMIVS VARVS V. C. LEG TEMPL DIANAE RESTITVIT Also this votive Altar out of which the name of the Emperour * Geta seems to have been rased when he was deposed by his brother Antoninus Bassianus â—â—e Phil. â—â—ns 〈◊〉 1â—5 and declared an enemy yet so as there are some shadows of the Letters still remaining b Id est Pro salute Augustorum nostrorum Severi Antonini Getae Caesarum Publius Saltienus Publii filius Maecia Thalamus ex hac gente aut tribu nempe Publ. Saltienus ortus est Praefectus Legionis secundae Augustae C. Vampeiano Luciliano Consulibus PRO SALVTE In printed Copies Claudius Pompeianus and Lollianus Avitus Coss An. Chr. 210. AVGG N. N. SEVERI ET ANTONINI ET GETAE CAES. P. SALTIENVS P. F. MAECIA THALAMVS HADRI PRAEF LEG II. AVG. C. VAMPEIANO ET LVCILIAN And this fragment of a very fair Altar the Inscription whereof might perhaps be thus supplied
Eccl. Hist l. 4. c 23. where the Latin Copies generally call this venerable Matron Heru and the Saxon Paraphrase Hegu and the same woman in the conclusion of that Chapter is more rightly nam'd Begu or as one Saxon Copy reads it Bega This is the same Bega that as Leleâ—d l. 1. p. 395. Monast Angl. witnesses was born in Irelanâ— and built her first Monastery at S. Bâ—ge's in Cumberland her second at Heruty or Hartlepool and her third at this Calcaceaster are not natural but artificially compounded of Sand Lime and Vitriol for of this they fancy it has some grains as also of an oily unctuous matter Much like those cisterns at Rome which Pliny tells us were made of Sand and a hot Lime so very compact and firm that one would have took them for real stone ii Somewhat Eastward from the bridge before mention'd 〈◊〉 stands Isurium Brigantum an ancient city which took its name from the Ure that wash'd it but has been demolisht many ages since Still there is a village upon the same spot which carries antiquity in its name being call'd Ealdburg and Aldborrow â—â—â—borrow that is to say an old Burrough There is now little or no signs remaining of a City the plot thereof being converted into arable and pasture grounds So that the evidence of History it self would be suspected in testifying this to be the old Isurium if the name of the river Ure the Roman coins continually digg'd up here and the distance between it and York according to Antoninus were not convincing and undeniable kk For by that time the Ure which from hence-forward the Saxons call'd Ouse because the Ouseburne a little brook falls into it here has run 16 Italian miles fâ—rther it arrives at the City Eboracum or Eburacum â—â—â—â—umâ— which Ptolemy in Lib. 2. Magnae Constructionis calls oo Tacitus in Vit. Agricolae calls it Civitas Brigantum And for the same reason it was sometimes by the Saxons nam'd simply Ceastre as well as Eoforwick-ceastre See Chron. Sax. ad Ann. 685. 763. 780. Brigantium if the Book be not faulty and that mistake have not risen from it's being the Metropolis of the Brigantes Ninius calls it Caer-Ebrauc the Britains Caer-Effroc the Saxons Euor Æ¿ic and Eofor-Æ¿ic and we at this day York The British History derives its name from the first founder King Ebraucus But with submission to other mens judgments my opinion is that the word Eburacum comes from the river Ure implying its situation to be upon that river Thus the Eburovices in France were seated by the river Ure near Eureux in Normandy the Eburones in the Netherlands near the river Ourt in the Diocese of Liege and Eb-lana in Ireland by the river Lefny York is the second city in England the finest in this County and the great fence and ornament to those Northern parts 'T is both pleasant large and strong adorn'd with fine buildings both publick and private populous rich and an Arch-bishop's See The river Ure which now takes the name Ouse runs gently as I said from North to South quite through this City and so divides it into two parts joyn'd by a Stone-bridge which has one of the largest Arches that ever I saw The West part of the City is less populous and lies in a square form enclosed partly with stately walls and partly by the river and has but one way to it namely by Mikell-barr which signifies a great Gate from whence a broad fair built street on both sides leads to the very bridge with fine Gardens behind them and the fields for exercise extended to the very walls In the South part of the fields where the river forms an angle I saw a mount which has probably been cast up for some Castle to be built there now call'd the old Bale which William Melton the Arch-bishop as we find it in the lives of the Arch-bishops fortified first with thick planks eighteen foot long and afterwards with a stone wall whereof there remains nothing now visible The East part of the City where the buildings are thick and the streets but narrow is shap'd like a lentil and strongly wall'd On the South-east 't is defended by a Foss or Ditch 〈◊〉 river very deep and muddy which runs by obsâ—ure ways into the very heart of the City and has a bridge over it so throng'd with buildings on both sides that a stranger would mistake it for a street after which it falls into the Ouse At the confluence over against the Mount before mention'd William the Conquerour built a prodigious strong Castle to keep the Citizens in awe But this without any care has been left to the mercy of time ever since fortified places have grown in disrepute among us as only fit for those who want courage to face an enemy in the open field ll Towards the North-east on this side also stands the Cathedral dedicated to St. Peter a magnificent and curious fabrick near which without the walls was a p At the Dissolution valu'd at 2085 l. 1 s. 5 d. ob q. noble Monastery surrounded with the river and its own walls nam'd St. Maries It was founded by Alan the third Earl of Bretaign in Armorica and of Richmond here in England and plentifully endow'd But now 't is converted into a Royal Palace and is commonly call'd the Manour The Manour As for the original of York I cannot tell whence to derive it but from the Romans seeing the British towns before the coming in of the Romans were only woods fortified with a ditch and rampire as Caesar and Strabo who are evidence beyond exception assure us Without insisting upon the story of King Ebraucus a word formed from the name Eboracum who is grosly feigned to be the founder of it this is certain that the sixth Legion call'd Victrix was sent out of Germany into Britain by Hadrian and garison'd here and that this was a Roman Colony we are assur'd both by Antoninus and Ptolemy and an old Inscription which I my self have seen in the house of a certain Alderman of this City M. VEREC DIOGENES I1111I VIR COL EBOR. IDEMQ MORT CIVES BITVRIX HAEC SIBI VIVVS FECIT And also from Severus the Emperour's Coins which have this Inscription on the reverse of them COL EBORACVM LEG VI. VICTRIX But upon what grounds Victor The same Victor lately publisht by Andr. Schottus in his History of the Caesars calls York a Municipium when it was a Colony I cannot readily tell unless the Inhabitants might desire as the Praenestines did to be chang'd from a Colony to a Municipium Municipium Colonia For Colonies were more obnoxious and servile being not left to their own humour as Agellius tells us but govern'd by the Roman Laws and Customs Whereas the Municipia were allow'd the free use of their own Constitutions and enjoyed those honourable offices which the Citizens of Rome did without being tied to any other
think m This reading should make it seem to be the ancient Whitern or Candida Casa in Galloway in Scotland being possibly a corruption for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 i.e. White-houses Leucopibia Nennius Caer Lualid the ridiculous Welsh Prophecies The City of Duballus we Carlile and the Latins from the more modern name Carleolum For that Luguballia and Carlile are the same is universally agreed upon by our Historians n Caer in Welsh signifies a City and Caer-Luul Caer-Luel Caer-Lugubal as it was anciently writ are the very same with Caer-Leil or Caer-Luil the present appellation and import as much as the Town or City of Luul Luel or Lugubal But as to the Etymology good God! what pains has our Countryman Leland took about it and at last he 's driven upon this shift to fancy Ituna might be call'd Lugus and that Ballum came from Vallis a valley and so makes Lugu-vallum as much as a valley upon the Luge But give me leave also to produce my conjecture I dare affirm that the Vallum and Vallin were deriv'd from that famous military Vallum of the Romans which runs just by the City For Antoninus calls it Luguvallum ad vallum and the Picts-wall that was afterwards built upon the Wall of Severus is to be seen at Stanwicks a small village a little beyond the Eden over which there is a wooden bridge It pass'd the river over against the Castle where in the very chanel the remains of it namely great stones appear to this day Also Pomponius Mela has told us 〈◊〉 â—â—gus â—hat they â—â—gnify'd â—â—ong the â—â—cient Briâ—â—â—ns and â—â—als that Lugus or Lucus signify'd a Tower among the old Celtae who spoke the same Language with the Britains For what Antoninus calls Lugo Augusti is in him Turris Augusti so that Lugu-vallum both really is and signifies a tower or fort upon the wall or vallum Upon this bottom if the French had made their Lugdunum â—â—gduâ—â—m signifie as much as a tower upon a hill and their Lucotetia Lucotetia or Lutetia in France An old Itinerary lately publish'd says that Lugdunum signifies a desirable mountain so the Ancients nam'd what we call Lutetia as much as a beautiful tower for the words import so much in the British possibly they might have been more in the right than by deriving the latter from Lutum dirt and the former from one Lugdus a fabulous King That this City flourish'd in the times of the Romans does plainly enough appear both from the several evidences of Antiquity they now and then dig up and from the frequent mention made of it by Roman Authors And even after the ravages of the Picts and Scots it retain'd something of it's ancient beauty and was reckon'd a City For in the year of our Lord 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland o See the Donation at large in Sim. Dunelm l 2. p. 58. gave it to the famous S. Cuthbert in these words I have also bestow'd upon him the City call'd Luguballia with the lands fifteen miles round it At which time also it was wall'd round The Citizens says Bede carry'd Cuthbert to see the Walls of the City and a Well of admirable workmanship built in it by the Romans At which time Cuthbert as the Durham-book has it founded a Religious-house for Nuns with an Abbess and Schools for the instruction of youth Afterwards being miserably destroy'd by the Danes it lay bury'd for about two hundred years in it's own ashes till it began to flourish again by the favour and assistance of William Rufus who built it a-new with a Castle and planted there a Colony first of the Flemings whom upon better consideration he quickly remov'd into oo North-Wales and the Isle of Anglesey Wales and then of English sent out of the south r Then as Malmesbury has it was to be seen a Roman Triclinium or dining-room of stone arch'd over which neither the violence of Weather nor Fire could destroy On the front of it was this Inscription Marii Victoriae Some will have this Marius to have been Arviragus the Britain others that Marius who was saluted Emperour in opposition to Gallienus and is said to have been so strong that Authors tell us he had nerves instead of veins in his fingers Yet I have heard that some Copies have it not Marii Victoriae but Marti Victori which latter may perhaps be favour'd by some and seem to come nearer the truth Luguballia now grown populous had as they write it's Earl or rather Lord Ralph Meschines or de Micenis from whom are descended the Earls of Chester and being about the same time honour'd with an Episcopal See by Hen. 1. had Athulph for it's first Bishop This the Monks of Durham look'd upon as an injury to their Church When Ralph say they Bishop of Durham was banish'd and the Church had none to protect it certain Bishops seis'd upon Carleil and Tividale and joyn'd them to their own Dioceses How the Scots in the reign of King Stephen took this City and Henry 2. recover'd it how Henry 3. Eversden committed the Castle of Carlile and the County to Robert de Veteri ponte or Vipont how in the year 1292. it was p The Chronicle of Lauercost is very particular in describing this lamentable Fire He that recorded the account was an eye-witness and says that the fire was so violent that it consum'd the villages two miles off as well as the Church Castle and the whole City and by his relation it should seem that the City was then much larger and more populous than at present it is burnt down along with the Cathedral and Suburbs how Robert Brus the Scot in the year 1315. besieg'd it without success c. are matters treated of at large in our Histories But it may be worth our while to add two Inscriptions I saw here one in the house of Thomas Aglionby near the Citadel * Deterioris seculi but not ancient DIIS MANIBV S MARCI TROIANI AVGVSTINANI * Tumulum TVM FA CIENDVM CVRAVIT AFEL AMMILLVSIMA CONIVX †Carissima KARISS To which is joyn'd the effigies of an armed Horseman with a Lance. The other is in the Garden of Thomas Middleton in a large and beautiful Character LEG VI VIC P. F. G. P. R. F. That is as I fancy Legio Sexta Victrix Pia Felix The interpretation of the rest I leave to others Andrew Harcla Earl of Carlisle Carlisle had only one Earl 15 Sir Andrew Andrew de Harcla whom Edward the second to speak from the Original Charter of Creation for his honourable and good services against Thomas Earl of Lancaster and his Adherents for subduing the King's Subjects who were in rebellion and delivering them prisoners to the King by the girding of a sword created Earl under the honour and title of Earl of Carleol But the same person afterwards prov'd ungrateful villanous and perfidious to
Trepidus rapid but most famous for as glorious a victory as ever the Scots obtained when Edward 2. King of England was put to flight and forc'd to save himself in a Boat and for the routing of as fine an Army as ever England sent out before that by the valiant conduct of King Robert Brus. Insomuch that for a year or two the English did not in the least disturb the Scots Ptolemy seems somewhere about Sterling to place his Alauna Alauna which was either upon Alon a little River that hath its influx here into the Forth or at Alway a seat of the Ereskins hereditary Sheriffs of all the County without the Borough f 'T is now an Earldom in the Family of the Alexanders But I have not yet read of any one honoured with the title of Earl of Sterling d Additions to the DAMNII a CLYDSDALE Cydsdale called also the Sheriffdom of Lanrick from the town of Lanrick where the Sheriff keeps his courts is bounded on the South-East with the Stewartry of Annandale on the South with the Sheriffdom of Dumfrise on the South-west with that of Aire on the North-west with that of Ranfrew on the North with that of Dumbarton on the North-east with that of Sterling on the East with that of Linlithgow a little to the South-east with that of Mid-Lothian 'T is in length about 40 miles in breadth where broadest some 24. and where narrowest 16 miles The countrey abounds with Coal Peets and Lime-stone but what turns to the greatest account are the Lead-mines belonging to Hopton not far from which after rains the country people find pieces of gold some of which are of a considerable bigness I suppose 't is the same place our Author has mentioned upon this account It is divided into two Wards the Overward and Netherward this hilly and full of heaths and fit for pasturage the other plain and proper for grain It is watered with the pleasant River of Clide which gives name to the shire it rises at Errick-hill and running through the whole County glideth by many pleasant seats of the nobility and gentry and several considerable towns till it fall into its own Firth at Dumbarton The great ornament of these parts is the Palace of Hamilton Hamilton the residence of the Dutchess of Hamilton * Theatrum Scotiae the Court whereof is on all sides adorned with very noble buildings It has a magnificent Avenue and a Frontispiece towards the East of excellent workmanship On one hand of the Avenue is a hedge on the other fair large gardens well furnished with fruit-trees and flowers The Park famous for its tall oaks is six or seven miles round and has the Brook Aven running through it Near the Palace is the Church the Vault whereof is the buryal-place of the Dukes of Hamilton Upon the East bank of Clyde stands Glasgow Glasgow †Ibid. in respect of largeness buildings trade and wealth the chief City in the Kingdom next Edinburgh The river carries vessels of small burthen up to the very tower but New-Glasgow which stands on the mouth of Clyde is a haven for vessels of the largest size Most part of the City stands on a plain and is almost four-square In the very middle of it where is the Tolbooth a very stately building of hewn-stone four principal streets crossing each other divide the city as it were into four equal parts In the higher part of it stands the Cathedral Church commonly called St. Mungo's consisting indeed of two Churches one whereof is over the other The Architecture of the pillars and towers is said to be very exact and curious Near the Church is the Archbishop's Castle fenc'd with a wall of hewn stone but it s greatest ornament is the College separated from the rest of the town by an exceeding high wall the precincts whereof are enlarged with some Acres of ground lately purchased and the buildings repaired and adorned by the care and prudent administration of the Principal the Learned Doctor Fall Roman-Highway Nor does this tract want some remains of Roman Antiquity For from Errickstone in the one end to Mauls Mire in the other where it borders upon Reinfraw there are evident footsteps of a Roman Causey or military way called to this day the Watlin-street This in some parts is visible for whole miles together and the people have a tradition that another Roman Street went from Lanrick to the Roman Camp near Falkirk At Lismehago a town in this shire was a Priory and Convent of the Monks of the order Vallis Caulium a sort of Cistercians founded by Fergus Lord of Galloway a Cell of Kelso b RANFREW Ranfâ—ew or Reinfraw is the next branch of the Damnii and is separated from the shire of Dumbarton on the West by the River Clyde which carries up ships of great burden for 10 miles On the East 't is joyned to the shire of Lanrick and on the West and South to the Sheriffdom of Aire It is in length twenty miles and in breadth eight but where broadest thirteen That part which lyeth near Clyde is pleasant and fertil without mountains only has some small risings but that to the South South-west and West is more barren hilly and moorish Our Author has observ'd this tract to be full of Nobility and Gentry who almost keep up a constant relation by marriage one with another The convenience of the Frith of Clyde the Coast whereof is all along very safe to ride in has caused good improvements in these parts At the West end of a fair Bay stand Gumrock Gumrock town and castle where there is a good road and a harbour lately contrived and a village is now in building More inward stands Greenock Greenock a good road and well built town of best account on all this Coast 'T is the chief seat of the herring-fishing and the Royal Company of Fishers have built a house at it for the convenience of trade Near this is Crawfird-Dyke Crawfird-Dyke where good houses are in building and a little more to the South New-work New-work where the town of Glasgow hath built a new port and called it Port-Glasgow with a large publick house Here is the Custom-house for all this Coast and the town of Glasgow hath obliged the Merchants to load and unload here But Pasly Pasly for antient Grandeur is the most considerable The Abbey and Church with fair gardens and orchards and a little Park for Fallow-deer are all enclosed with a stone-wall about a mile in circuit The Monastery here was of the Order of the Cluniacenses founded by Walter the second great Steward of King Malcolm the fourth The Chancel of the Church standeth yet where lye buried Robert 2. and his mother At this town there is a large Roman Camp the Praetorium is at the West end on a rising ground upon the descent whereof the town of Pasly stands This Praetorium
Earl of Strafford Lord Lieutenant of Ireland erected a large and magnificent Pile and designed to make it the seat of his Family principal and head town of this County is Kildar Kildar eminent in the first ages of the Irish Church for Brigid â— Brigid a virgin of great esteem for her devotion and chastity not she who about 240 years since instituted the Order of the Nuns of S. Brigid namely that within one Monastery both Men and Women should live together in their several apartments without seeing one another but one more ancient who lived about a thousand years ago was a disciple of S. Patrick and very famous both in Ireland Scotland and England Her miracles and the fire which never goes out being preserved and cherished in the * Adytis â—â—â—traliâ—â—â— inner sanctuary like that of Vesta by the sacred Virgins and still burns without any addition or increase of ashes are related by some Authors This town has the honour of being a Bishops See formerly stil'd in the Pope's Letters Episcopatus Darensis 14 And after the entrance of the English into Ireland was c. and was first the habitation of Richard Earl of Pembrook afterwards of William Marshall Earl of Pembrook his son in law by whose fourth daughter Sibill it came to William Ferrars Earl of Derby and by a daughter of his by her likewise to William Vescy whose son 15 William Lord Vescy William Vescy Lord Chief Justice of Ireland being out of favour with King Edward the first upon a quarrel between him and John the son of Thomas Fitz-Girald and having lost his only legitimate son gave Kildare and other lands of his in Ireland Aâ—chivâ—â—â—geta to the King upon condition he should infeoff his natural son sirnamed de Kildare with all his other lands in England A little after that the said John son to Thomas Fitz-Girald whose ancestors descended from Girald Windesor Castellan of Pembrook by their great valour did much service in the conquest of Ireland had the castle and town of Kildare together with the title and name of Earl of Kildare Earls of Kildar bestow'd upon him by King Edward the second These Fitz-Giralds or Geraldins as they now call them were very great men and particularly eminent for their brave actions who of themselves as one says preserved the sea-coasts of Wales and conquered Ireland And this family of Kildare flourished with their honour and reputation unsullied for a long time having never any hand in rebellions till Thomas Fitz-Girald son of Girald-Fitz-Girald Earl of Kildare and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in Henry the eighth's time upon the news that his father who was sent for into England and charg'd with male-administration was executed was so far transported by the heat of youth upon this false rumour that he rashly took up arms against his King and Country invited Charles the 5th to take possession of Ireland wasted the Country with fire and sword besieged Dublin and put the Archbishop thereof to death for which outrage he was soon after hang'd with five of his uncles his father being dead before of grief and trouble at these proceedings However this family was restored by Queen Mary to its ancient grandeur who promoted Girald brother of the said Thomas to the Earldom of Kildare and the Barony of Offaly 16 He ended this life about the year 1558. His eldest Son Girald died before his father leaving only one daughter married to Sir Robert Digby Henry his second son succeeded who when he had by his wife Lady Frances daughter to Charles Earl of Nottingham only two daughters William the third son succeeded to the Earldom who was drowned in passing into Ireland in the year 1599 having no issue And then the title of Earl of Kildare came to Girald Fiâ—z Girald son to Edward their uncle who wan restored to his blood in lineage to make title by descent lineal or collateral from his father and brother and all his ancestors any attainder or corruption of blood to the contrary notwithstanding his two sons Henry and William having both succeeded him without issue male the title of Earl fell to Girald Fitz-Girald their Cousin-german 17 With a fair patrimony seduced by the Religious pretext into Rebellion Other eminent towns in this county are Naas a market town Athie situate upon the river Barrow Mainoth a castle of the Earls of Kildare and endowed with the priviledge of a market and a fair by King Edw. the first in favour of Girald Fitz-Moris Castle-Martin the chief seat of the family of the Fitz-Eustaces descended from the Poers in the County of Waterford of whom Rowland Fitz-Eustace Barons Fitz Eustace for his great worth was made a Baron of Parliament by Edward the fourth and had the manour of Portlester bestow'd upon him as also the title of Vicount Baltinglas by Henry the eighth Pat. 2. Ed. 4. Viscounts Baltinglas all which dignities Rowland Fitz-Eustace lost 7 being banish'd in Q. Elizabeth's time for his treachery The more considerable families here besides the Fitz-Giralds are all likewise English the Ougans De-la-Hides Ailmers Walshes Boisels Whites Suttons c. As for the Gyant 's dance which Merlin by art magick transferred as they say out of this territory to Salisbury-plain as also the bloody battle to be fought hereafter between the English and the Irish at Molleaghmast I leave them for the credulous and such as doat upon the fabulous part of antiquity and vainly admire prophesies For it is not answerable to my design to dilate upon stories of this nature These are the midland Counties of Leinster now for those upon the sea coast The County of WEISFORD BElow that mouth from which the three sister-rivers the Barrow the Neore and the Swire empty themselves into the sea upon a Promontory eastward where the shore is rounding lies the County of Weisford or Wexford in Irish County a Which signifies Coarse or rough Reogh where the Menapii Menapii are placed by Ptolemy That these Menapii were the off-spring of the Menapii that peopled the sea-coast in the Lower Germany the name it self seems to intimate But whether that Carausius Carausius who put up for Emperor and held Britain against Dioclesian were of this or that nation Published by Sâ—hottus I leave to the discovery of others For * Aurelius Victor calls him a citizen of Menapia and the city Menapia is in Ireland and not in the Low-Countreys of Germany according to Geographers Upon the river Barrow in this County formerly flourished Ross a large b Now a burrough city of good trade and well inhabited fortified with a wall of great compass by Isabel the daughter of Earl Richard Strongbow which is the only remains of it at this day For the dissention between the citizens and the religious here has long since ruined the town and reduced it to little or nothing More eastward Duncanon Duncanon
person still living had done the same in Oxford for the Northern Languages in general but that a sudden change of Affairs prevented him This place has been lately honour'd by giving the title of Marquess to the Right Honorable William Earl of Bedford now created Duke of Bedford This town has given several great Lawyers to the State as Sir John Glanvill a Judge Serjeant Glanvill his son and Sir John Maynard who was lately one of the Commissioners of the Great Seal of England Two miles from hence is Lamerton Lamerton parish in the Church whereof is an ancient monument of the Tremaines where may be seen the effigies or Nicholas and Andrew Tremaine twins alike in all lineaments suffer'd like pain tho' at a distance desir'd to sleep walk eat and drink together and were slain together at New-haven in France An. 1663. Nearer to the sea is Beare-Ferris Beare-Ferris so nam'd from the family call'd De Ferrariis anciently famous in this County In this parish there were Silver-mines in the reign of K. Hen. 6. which were lately re-enter'd by Sir John Maynard but have since been discontinu'd e From hence the river carries us down to Plimouth Plimouth mention'd by our Author as a town lately risen and a haven well fortify'd We may add that it had anciently but one Church till the 16 of Ch. 1. when a new one was erected and consecrated in the time of Ch. 2. Here is also a Royal Cittadel built by that King consisting of five regular Bastions and 165 guns The guns of the other fortifications added to these make up in all 253. There are two Docks begun in 1691. and finish'd in 1693. As Sir Francis Drake was born here so both he and Mr. Candish began their voyage from this town for discovery of the unknown parts of the world By his contrivance and his own proper chargo there was brought to this town a large stream from a great distance through many windings and turnings which is a great benefit to the Town carrying several Mills and serving for other common uses of the Inhabitants This place has been honour'd since Mr. Camden's time by giving the title of Earl to Charles Fitz-Charles natural son of K. Ch. 2. created July 29. in the 27th of that King f Eastward from hence is Modbery Modbery and of the Fortescues of Wimpston in that Parish was descended Chancellour Fortescue Author of the famous book De Laudibus Legum Angliae Between Modbery and Kings bridge there is a fair bridge over the river Avon about a quarter of a mile long At the mouth of the river stands S. Michael's Rock several acres over in which are to be seen the remains of an old Chappel This ancient Rhyme seems to refer to it Where Avon's waters with the sea are mixt St. Michael firmly on a rock is fixt Kings-bridge Kingsbridge is a pretty market town pleasantly situated and particularly deserves our notice for the benefaction of Mr. Crispin a late citizen of Exeter who founded here a Free-school and endow'd it Near which is Dodbrooke Dodbrooke singular for a custom of paying tithe to the Parson for a certain sort of liquor call'd White-Ale g The river Dert first runneth thro' Dertmore Dertmore a large Forest 20 miles long and 14 broad It was first made a Forest by K. John and had anciently in it many tinn-works It now yields pasture every summer to near 100000 sheep with a proportionable number of other cattle and supplies the North West and South with variety of pleasant rivers h Then to Totnes Totnes which in K. Charles the first 's time gave the title of Earl to George Lord Carew of Clopton son of Dr. George Carew Dean of Windsor Torr bay i Directly East-ward lies Torr-bay memorable for the landing of the Prince of Orange now K. William on the 5th of November An. 1688. Where we must not pass by Mary-Church being the first Church founded in this County according to tradition Near this bay is a remarkable well call'd Lay-well which ebbs and flows several times in an hour and bubbles up sometimes like a boiling pot the water as clear as crystal very cold in summer and never freezing in winter accounted by the neighbours to be medicinal in some fevers Farther up in the country is Moreley Moâ—â—ley remarkable for it's Church built upon this occasion In the time of Edw. 1. Sir Peter Fishacre Knight upon a controversie between him and the Parson of Woodley about tythes kill'd the Parson in a rage and being constrain'd to answer the same at Rome was by the Pope condemn'd to build this Church where he lies bury'd From hence towards Dertmore lies Wythicombe Wythicombe where in the 14 Car. 1. in a violent storm of thunder and lightning a ball of fire came into the Church in divine Service kill'd three persons wounded 62. turn'd the seats upside down c. the damages amounting to above 300 l. A like storm hapn'd at Crews Morthard Crews Morthard in this County An. 1689. which rent the steeple melted the bells lead and glass and nothing escap'd but the Communion Plate k Returning to the shore we meet with Teignmouth Teignmouth which as it formerly suffer'd by the Danes so was it of late burnt by the French l North-east from which is the river Ex upon it stands Tiverton Tiverton where Peter Blundell a Clothier built a free-school and endow'd it with a liberal maintenance for a sâ—hool-master and usher He gave also two fellowships and as many scholarships to Sidney College in Cambridge and one fellowship and two scholarships to Baliol College in Oxford for scholars bred up in this school m Upon the river Creden lies Kirton Kirton now no more famous for the Bishop of Exeter's house than it was in Camden's time for the College of Prebendaries For the house together with the mannour was alienated to the Killigrews so that now there do not remain the least footsteps of the Bishop's having any thing there except the name of a great meadow call'd My Lord's Meadow n The river Ex carries us to Exeter Exeter the Cathedral Church whereof our Author observes to have been enlarg'd by several hands 'T was for a long time no bigger than our Lady's Chappel An. 1112. William Warlewast Bishop of Exon. laid the foundation of the present Quire Two hundred years after Peter Quivell Bishop began the Nave of the present Church to which John Grandison Bishop made an Isle on each side An. 1450. Edmund Lacy Bishop built the Chapter-house and about the same time the Dean and Chapter built the Cloyster So that this Church was about 400 years in building and yet the symmetry of it such as one might easily imagine it the work of a single man The organ of this Church is accounted the largest in England the greatest pipe being 15 inches diameter which is two more than that of
the celebrated Organ at Ulme This city gave birth to Henrietta Maria youngest daughter to K. Charles 1. to William Petre â—ho was Secretary and Privy-Counsellor to K. Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth and seven times Embassadour in foreign parts and lastly to Sir Thomas Bodley employ'd by Queen Elizabeth to several foreign Courts but especially famous for his founding the Publick Library in the University of Oxford call'd after his own name nn Thomas the last Earl of Exeter mention'd by our Author was succeeded by William his son and heir who dying without issue-male The Eaâ—â—s continu'd left that honour to David Cecil Son of Sir Richard Cecil who was second son to Thomas Earl of Exeter This David was succeeded by John his son and heir and he by his son of the same name o At the confluence of Ex and Clist is Topesham Topheshaâ— an ancient town that hath flourish'd much by the obstructions of the river Ex. Several attempts have been made to remove these dammes but none so effectual as the new works in the time of King Charles 2. at the vast expence indeed of the City of Exeter but to such advantage that Lighters of the greatest burden come up to the city-key On the east of Exeter is a parish call'd Heavy-tree Heavy-tâ—â—â— memorable for the birth of Hooker the judicious Author of the Ecclesiastical Polity and of that great Civilian Dr. Arthur Duck. The next parish is Pinhoe Pinhoe remarkable for bringing forth the two Rainolds John and William brothers zealous maintainers both of the Reform'd and the Popish Religion in their turns Not far from hence is Stoke-Canon Stoke-Câ—non given by K. Canute to the Church of Exeter a representation of which gift was to be seen not long ago in a window of the Parish-Church there viz. a King with a triple Crown and this Inscription Canutus Rex donat hoc Manerium Eccles Exon. Four miles east of Exon we pass the river Clyst near which upon Clyst-heath Clyst-heath the Cornish rebels were totally defeated An. 1549. by John Lord Russel afterwards Earl of Bedford p Next is Honnyton Honnyâ—â—â— where the market was anciently kept on Sundays as it was also in Exeter Launceston and divers other places till in the reign of K. John they were alter'd to other days Over the river Ottery is Vennyton bridge Vennytâ—â—-bridge at which in the time of Edw. 6. a battle was fought against the Cornish rebels q And upon the same river stands Budley Budley famous for being the birth-place of that great Statesman and Historian Sir Walter Rawleigh r From whence to the north east is Sidmouth Sidmouâ—â— now one of the chiefest fisher-towns of those parts s And Seaton Seaton where the inhabitants formerly endeavour'd to cut out a haven and procur'd a Collection under the Great Seal for that purpose but now there remain no footsteps of that work t The river Ax passeth by Ford Ford. to which Abbey the Courtneys were great benefactours it is now in the hands of Edmund Prideaux Esq Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury in the reign of K. Richard 1. was first Monk and then Abbot here Ax empties it self into the sea at Axmouth Axmoâ—â—â— formerly a good harbour for ships Several attempts have been made to repair this decay'd haven by the family of the Earles but all in vain u Crossing the country to the north-west we meet with Hartland Hartâ—â—â—â— the possessions of which Monastery were confirm'd by Richard 1. with the grant of great immunities particularly of a Court holding plea of all matters saving life and member arising in their own lands In the time of Q. Elizabeth a Bill was preferr'd in the house of Commons for finishing that port Not far from this is Clovelly-harbour Cloâ—â—â—â—â— secur'd by a Piere erected at great charges by the Carys who have had their seats here from the time of Richard 2. 'T is now the most noted place in those parts for herring-fishing At a little distance lies Hole or South-hold Sâ—â—th-hold the native place of Dr. John Moreman Vicar of Maynhennet in Cornwall towards the latter end of Henry 8. memorable upon this account that he was the first who taught his Parishioners the Lord's Prayer Creed and ten Commandments in the English tongue By which we learn in how short a time that language has entirely prevail'd against the native Cornish w Upon the river Ock is Okehampton â—kehampton which as it had formerly 92 Knights fees belonging to it so it is at present a good market town incorporated by K. James 1. sends Burgesses to Parliament and gives the title of Baron to the family of the Mohuns More to the north lies Stamford-Courtney Stamford-Courtney where began a great insurrection in the time of K. Edward 6. by two of the inhabitans one of whom would have no Gentlemen the other no Justices of Peace x At a little distance is North-Tawton North-Tawton where there is a pit of large circumference 10 foot deep out of which sometimes springs up a little brook or bourn and so continues for many days 'T is taken by the common people as a fore-runner of publick sorrow as that Bourn in Hertfordshire call'd Woobournmore Directly towards the north upon the river Moule lieth South-moulton â—outh-â—oulton an ancient town incorporate formerly call'd Snow-moulton when it was held by the Martyns by Sergeanty to find a man with a bow and three arrows to attend the Earl of Gloucester when he should hunt thereabouts x From hence to the south-west is Torrington â—â—rrington call'd in old Records Chepan-Torrington an ancient Borough which sent Burgesses to Parliament But that privilege hath been long discontinu'd both here and in other places in this County It was incorporated by Queen Mary by the name of Mayor Aldermen and Burgesses and hath yielded the title of Earl to George Duke of Albemarle the great Restorer of K. Charles 2. as after him to Christopher his only son and since to Arthur Herbert the present Earl late Lord Admiral y The river goes next to Bediford â—ediford mention'd by our Author for it's bridge It is so high that a ship of 50 or 60 tunn may sail under it For which and for number of arches it equals if not exceeds all others in England 'T was begun by Sir Theobald Granvill and for the finishing of it the Bishop of the Diocese granted out Indulgences to move the people to more liberal contributions and accordingly great sums of money were collected This place hath been in the possession of the Granvills ever since the Conquest a family famous particularly for Sir Richard Granvill's behaviour in Glamorganshire in the reign of W. Rufus and another of the same name under Q. Elizabeth who with one ship maintain'd a sea-fight for 24 hours against 50 of the Spanish Galeons and at last yielded upon