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ID	Title	Author	Corrected Date of Publication (TCP Date of Publication)	STC	Words	Pages
A07903	Himatia-Poleos The triumphs of olde draperie, or the rich cloathing of England. Performed in affection, and at the charges of the right worthie and first honoured Companie of Drapers: at the enstalment of Sr. Thomas hayes Knight, in the high office of Lord Maior of London, on Satturday, being the 29. day of October. 1614. Deuised and written by A.M. citizen and draper of London.	Munday, Anthony, 1553-1633.	1614 (1614)	STC 18274; ESTC S120605	7,809	24

HIMATIAPOLEOS THE TRIVMPHS OF olde Draperie or the rich Cloathing of ENGLAND Performed in affection and at the charges of the right Worthie and first honoured Companie of Drapers at the enstalment of Sr. Thomas Hayes Knight in the high office of Lord Maior of London on Satturday being the 29. day of October 1614. Deuised and written by A. M. Citizen and Draper of London LONDON Printed by Edward Allde 1614. Himatia-Poleos Or The Olde Draperie and Clothing of ENGLAND IN euery well-gouerned Kingdome and Common-wealth the chiefest Citie and Citizens therein haue euermore held the prime place and prioritie as well in matter of honor as due right of Antiquity And as the Lacedemonians the first instructers of the olde Romaines and so from them we and all other Nations deriued our forme of rule As they I say made a distinguishing of their most memorable Societies from other of much lesse note and merite Euen so this famous Cittie of London whose continuall teeming wombe from time to time brought forth many seuerall Mysteries or Professions hath referred them all in eminencie of place to twelue onely Amongst which twelue gradations of honour and dignitie the first originall began in the first Companie of all other in this Citie the ancient fellowship or Societie of Drapers To approoue the society of Drapers of the first when as yet there was none other it is auouched by William Fitzstephen Iohn Bale Roger Houeden and others that the Wooll-winder who was the olde Draper or Clothier as borrowed from the word Drappier did carde and spinne his wooll then weaue it into cloth full rowe sheare dresse and dye it and sell in afterwards in his shop performing all these seuerall offices thereto by himselfe and seruants which since then hath branched it selfe into diuers other Companies and of one entire Trade or Mysterie is become many Out of this list or band of Drapers issued Sir Henrie Fitz-Alwine knight descended from that Alwine Vnckle to king Edgar who made him Alderman of all England when as till then the name of Alderman or Eldermen was neuer knowen This Henrie Fitz-Alwine had the first honour to be stiled Maire or Maior of London by favour of King Richard the first surnamed Cuer de Lyon and was himselfe as is crediblie avouched a Brother of the same Societie in honour of the man by him so aduanced before his iourney to the Holie Land For vntill his time the troublesome combustions of the Citie being not fully setled the gouernment thereof remained first in Portgreues next in martiall Provosts thirdly in Bayliffes and lastly in Lord Maiors as in meete place is more at large declared Heere before I passe any further it may appeare as a blemish on mine own browe because in my Booke in the worthie Company of Goldsmiths I did set downe Henrie Fitz-Alwine Fitz-Leofstane to be a Goldsmith and the first Lord Maior of London alleadging my authoritie for the same in the margent of the same booke out of Iohn Stowe which now I may seem to denie and affirme the same man to be a Draper to the disgrace of the forenamed Company and mine owne deepe discredit What then I did was by warrant of my fore-alleaged Author who finding Henrie Fitz-Alwine Fitz-Leofstane to bee Maister or Guardian of the kings Mint did therfore set him downe to bee a Goldsmith which was no error in me to doe the like being thereto secured by him and knowing as then no other proofe to the contrary But hauing per●sed more assured authority in the Drapers Hall that one not named Henrie Fitz-Alwine Fitz-Leofstane but Henrie Fitz-Alwine a brother of the olde Drapers was Lord Maior of London foure and twentie yeares and a halfe by yerely election and longer had been if he had longer liued who had also giuen his dwelling house by Londō stone to his owne free brethren of the Drapers with an annuity yearely to be paide to the king out of such land as is held of his by them and that hee lieth in the parish Church of S. Marie Bothawe buried the Parish wherein hee liued and died whereas Iohn Stowe affirmeth him to bee buried in the Priorie of the holy Trinitie called Christs Church on the right hand within Aldegate which is now called the Dukes place Nay more Maister Clarentius Cambden with the aduise of diuers other good Antiquaries beside hath vnder his hand and Seale of Office confirmed him to be none other then a Draper What more free confession can any man make then of his blinde misleading by a blinder guide In whose behalf I dare yet boldly maintaine that no such error escaped from him wilfully or willingly his care and endeauour was so great but mis-information or incapacitie of reading may as it hath done to many wrong better men then any that are concerned in this case yet without any preiudice or dishonest taxation What offence then may the Companie of Mercers take who make challenge likewise to the very same man by mistaking Peter Fitz-Alwine a Mercer indeed for Henrie Fitz-Alwine the olde Draper Or that of the Fishmongers who deeme their worthy Wallworth the first Knighted Maior in the field to be the same man also and that no man before him was Maior of London I answere freely for my selfe and appeale to an especiall Gentleman in the imagined iniured Companie of Goldsmiths who tooke no meane paines to be resolued in this case that no certaine assurance could be had therein but that it remained doubtful between both the Societies And therefore we personated old Faringdon not Fitz-Alwine as the booke yet may be seene to cut off all such contentious questions Seeing then that reuerend antiquitie eminencie of honour and due right of merit bestowed so high a dignity vpon the Drapers I might well be iustly condemned if I should seeke after any other argument of credit for them when so maine a busines doth necessarilie require it then their owne due deseruing so long time sleeping in obliuion yet now reuiued to their endlesse honor The walles of any Citty were termed by the Grocians according as we title our instant discourse Himatia Poleos The Cloathing or garments of the Cittie Intimating thereby that as garments and cloathing doe ingirt the body defending it continually from the extremities of colde and heat so walles being the best garments of any Citie do preserue it from all dangerous annoynances Here on we lay the foundation of our deuise in the honour of Draperie the rich Clothing of Englād which long before the knowledge of fantasticke habites clothed both Prince people all a like to the 〈◊〉 meane renowne of the Kingdome and admiration of forraigne nations to whome our Draperie abounding in her owne plenty by meanes of nauigation and commerce affoorded the rich Liuerie of this land better imbraced by them and much more highly esteemed then all other trafficque whatsoeuer As well appeared by that famous Knight and trauayler Sir Frances Drake who hauing

free offring in honour of them that so dearely affect them and in my dutie to them both with all my vtmost seruice beside For thus say we in Catswolde From the Ramme we haue the Lambe From both our finest woolles are shorne Wooll had thus from the Ramme and Lambe Makes the best Cloath that can be worne Thanke then the Draper that began To make such Cloathing meete for man For if wee haue no Ramme wee are sure to haue no Lambe no Lambe no Wooll no wooll no Cloth no Cloth no Draper Heauen graunt that we may neuer see these noes For we shall then feele twise as many woes But that of Ram Lambe Wooll Cloth still we may haue store So shall the Drapers then thriue more and more As meane additions to giue some small Iuster to the Showe because ouer many were thought inconuenient we make vse of a golden pelletted Lyon a supporter to the Companies Armes with a Champion mounted on his back and a golden woolfe Erminnois the Ensigne or Imprese belonging to the Lord Maiors Creast And with these fewe slender deuises we vsher his Honors way toward Guilde-Haule vntill he come to S. Laurence-Lane where the figure of S. Henrie Fitz-Alwine thus fauourably stayeth him IN times of olde Antiquitie When men liu'd long and healthfully Detesting sloth and idlenesse Which breeds but surfet and excesse When yea and nay was greatest Oath And mens best weare good woollen Cloath Yeleped Englands Draperie More worth then gaudie brauerie Of Silken twine Siluer and Golde Nere knowen in those blest daies of olde Then liu'd that graue and worthie man That Londons honour first began By title of the Maioralty A high and famous dignity Henrie Fitz-Alwine was his name Noble by birth and of much fame Whose substance though his graue hath kept Foure hundred yeares where he hath slept Yet is his shadowe raisde in me To grace this daies solemnitie For he being first that held the sway Of Maior in London iustly may Challenge by right prioritie In honouring his owne Companie With all that sacred Poesie can Deuise to grace so good a man As first with hearts hands and free voice Was thought meet in the peoples choice To rancke in that rich rowle of fame That honoured first the Drapers name And worthie Brother here suruay Those seuerall kinds of Londons sway Till royall Richard first in me Altered the rule to Maioraltie Portgreues held first by strict command Next Prouosts with a sterner hand Such from the Conquest was the case Of Londons awe till milder grace Made choice of Bayliffes men thought fit In the Kings iudgement Courts to sit And right all causes of contention By vpright censure or preuention Yet all this could not please the king In two mens rule grew varying By leaning to what part each listed So might by might was still resisted Wrongs vnredrest offences flowing Garboyles grudges each where growing Therefore as God had giuen him place Solely to rule and iudge each case So would he plant a deputie To figure his authoritie In the true forme of Monarchie Then which no better soueraigntie Which office being imposde on me By such a gracious Maiestie I held it foure and twentie yeares Yearely elected as appeares Vntill my verie dying day Since when my Lord I can well say The Science of olde Draperie Our louing kind Society Hath yeelded many a Magistrate In the selfe-same degree of State And Time reserueth in his store For the like honour many more On then before for we must tend Till this daies triumph haue full end The solemnitie of so pompous a feast being finished and his Honor according to yearelie custome returning towards Paules with all the former conceits gracefully borne before him he is mildlie sollicited for a minutes stay by old Sir Iohn Norman who in this manner giueth him a reason for it The Speech at the little Conduit in the afternoone at my Lords going to Paules HOnorable Lord and Brother it is imposed on olde Iohn Norman brieflie to discribe these two beautifull deuises to yee In the first which manifesteth the Honor of Draperie your well iudging eye may easily conceiue each person by their apt distinguishment The Mother Olde Draperie with her Daughters and attendants placed about her doe deliuer the Drapers true antiquitie and that which he and his onely performed is since become the benifit of diuers trades or occupations Carding Spinning Weauing Fulling Rowing Shearing Dressing Dying Tentering and what else appertained to wollen cloath was the auncient Drapers sole profession and the chiefe honour of this famous Kingdome flourishing thereby in so many happy blessings and so fortefied by Peace Plenty Bountie Councell and Discreete Zeale that all other nations sate and admired thereat You haue a taste of this felicity in that other Deuise beautified with the chiefe Clothing Cities of this Land for maintenance of auncient Draperie whereof London sitteth the highest aduaunced as being his choyce Chamber that first made a Draper the onely Gouernor thereof I am loath to hold yee long and well I wot more ample relation hath beene made vnto yee and therefore to God and your good deuotions I heartily commend yee Night folding vp bright day in dimme mantles of darkenesse and those diuine ceremonies ended which waite as Henchmen on that daies duetie the Starres seeme to leaue their places in their fixed Spheares and become as so many bright flaming Torches to grace our worthy Magistrate home euen to his house as it were in the malice of blacke-fac'd night and to further the finishing of so solemne a Tryumph which endeth with this humble farewell giuen to his Honor. The Speech deliuered to the Lord Maior at parting THe longest daies haue end at last And pleasures pompe is but a blast You see my Lord that sullen night Sworne enemie to daies delight For all the pride these Tapers make Whispers that we must farewell take To doubt of your ensuing care Or to aduise yee to prepare For enuies stormes or soothing smiles That wait on such high place some whiles Longs not to me For in your eie Such true Charracters I espie Of vertue zeale and vpright heed That you will prooue the man indeed Meet such a charge to vndergoe Whereto heauens hand hath raisde you so And that you 'le equall any yet That in the selfe-same place hath set Such is the hope of all that loue yee Mongst whom I cannot choose but moue yee With their remembrance that this day Haue done as much as men well may In honouring this Solemnity The Drapers worthie Company Their loue and bountie hath exprest How with their fauours you are blest For as their kindnesse hath not scanted So hath no needfull seruice wanted For this daies honour and delight And so my worthie Lord good night Thus the worthy and first honoured Company of Drapers hauing in louing and bountifull manner declared their kinde affection to as affable a Magistrate I may not omit one thing more wherein the duteous respect of themselues and loue to the Citie very manifestly approoued their worth for when many solemne meetings haue beene made in the Guild Hall for election of a Sheriffe by common consent and as many refusalls still hapning day by day to the great disquiet of the Companies and mighty delay of time yet when no one would vndergoe the Office and charge a Draper hath done it worthily and willingly though no Aldermans place as then was voyd witnesse Maister Benedict Barneham a learned and iudicious Gentleman who chearefully vndertooke the Shrieualty in Anno 1591. Next Maister Henrie Iaye but a yeare since and Maister Martin Lumley now Sheriffe of London all of them louing Brethren of the Drapers Society To conclude as the seuerall Inuentions with all their weakenesses and imperfections were mine owne so the worth and credit of their performance if any may waite on so meane a businesse belongeth to the exact and skilfull Painter Maister Rowland Bucket whose care diligence and faithfull dealing I must needs commend and should wrong him ouermuch if I did not giue him due praise to his merit * ⁎ * FINIS * He liued and wrote in the time of king Stephen * In the olde Saxon tongue from whence it was deriued it signifieth Dominus or Lord. * The ancient Chronicler of the Citie The number of 45. Lord Maiors

roūded the whole world and noated the riches best endowments of euery naon founde none to equall the Draperie and cloathing of England In regarde whereof he chose to be a louing Brother of the Drapers Societie before all other Companies of the Citty Wherefore our first land deuise is a Shippe very artificially and workemanly framed called the Barke-Hayes fitted with Captaine Maister Mate c. and supposedly laden with woollen cloathes to make exchaunge for other Countries best commodities and thought meet to vsher the way to the residue of the showes which are directed to follow in this manner A beautifull Chariot drawen by two golden pell●tted Lyons and two golden Woolues Erminnois after the manner of the triumphall Chariots of the Romaine Emperours is graced with the supposed shape of King Richard the first with the seuerall figures of so many Citties in England about him as conueniencie of place and cariage graunted libertie vnto Those Citties are disciphered by their Eschuchions of Armes and that their best aduantage euer ensued by making of woollen Cloathes for the continuall maintenance of Englands Draperie But London sitting neerest vnto himselfe as chiefe Mother and matrone of them all he honours the head of his chiefest Chamber with a triple imperiall Crowne of golde vnder battelled or branched with Cloudes and beames of the Sunne being the Armes of the Drapers Societie and declaring his loue and fauour bestowed on her by his aduauncement of Sir Henrie Fitz-Alwine to the Maioraltie in whom began the olde Drapers dignitie After this Chariot followeth a Pageant or goodly Monument figuring the whole estate of Londons olde Draperie In the supreame and most eminent seate sitteth Himatia of Cloathing as Mother Lady and commaundresse of all the rest who by their distinct emblemes and properties apted for the easiest apprehension doe expresse their dutie and attendance on so gratious a person in their seuerall places and offices to them belonging As in Carding Spinning Weauing Rowing Fulling Shearing Dressing Dying Tentering and performing all other seruices to woollen Cloathes which at first was done onely by the Draper or Clothier Peace Plentie Liberalitie Councell and Discreet Zeale doe supporte the florishing condition of Himatiaes Common-wealth and striue to preuent all occasions which may seeme sinister or hurtfull thereto Our deuise which wee spake last of and yet is appointed the first in seruice serueth both for the water and land Till the yeare 1453. the L. Maiors of London vsed to ride on horsebacke to Westminster at such time as each one went to take his oath But S. Iohn Norman Draper being then Maior at his owne cost and charge and for the reliefe of poore Watermen who were much distressed in those daies made a very goodly Barge for himselfe and his Brethren to be rowed therein by water to Westminster and so to continue for a yearely custome It was a costly Barge and the Oares are said to bee couered with siluer in memorie whereof and the honest benefite yerely found thereby the Watermen made a pleasant song called Rowe thy Boate Norman c. This honour beginning likewise in the Draper and falling out so fitly to helpe our invention in a goodly faire Barge made meete for the purpose attendeth the supposed shadow of Sir Iohn Norman with the seauen liberall Sciences all attired like graceful Ladies sitting about him vntill such time as the Lord Maior commeth to take water and then he saluteth him with this speech S. Iohn Normans speech on the Water VVElcome to the water worthy Brother Draper Imagine me to be the true resemblance of olde S. Iohn Norman sometime Lord Maior of this famous Cittie and the first that deuised this water honour making my Barge at mine owne proper cost and rowed with siluer Oares to Westminster when as you now I then went to take mine oath In regard whereof I was the first Maior that was presented to the Barons of the Exchecquer The imaginarie shapes of the seauen liberall Sciences each one distinguished by their true charracter are placed as my companions in my Barge in memorie of the loue I euer bare to learning and no meane bounties by me extended for the maintenance thereof I ioy that inuention would make vse of my remembrance in this manner to doe any seruice to so desertfull a Brother and to the Companie of Drapers which I dearly affected On then my hearts and as in those elder dayes you declared your loue to olde Iohn Norman so expresse somewhat nowe to delight my honourd Brother singing cheerfully Rowe thy Boate Norman Which beeing no sooner ended but diuers sweet singing youths belonging to the maister that enstructeth the yong Quiristers of Pauls being all attired in faire wrought wastcoates and caps belonging also to them each hauing a siluer Oare in his hand do sing a most sweet dittie of Rowe thy Boate Norman and so seeme to rowe vp along to Westminster in honour of the Lord Maiors attendance For the seuerall peales of Ordinance which make better report in the aire then they can be expressed by pen For the Drums Fifes Trumpets and other musicall Instruments whereof each Company maketh their choice to grace this honourable seruice out and home againe in the true affection of louing Citizens not suffering their chiefe Magistrate to want any part of their kinde respect and furtherance they can much better speake for themselues then I and serue but as a breathing time to mee vntill my Lords returne and landing When all our deuises being martialled in order according as wee haue formerly related except a goodly Ramme or Golden Fleece with a Sheepheard sitting by it as occation serueth deliuereth his intention in this ensuing speech The Sheepheard VVHy gaze yee so vpon me am I not a man flesh bloud and bone as you are Or in these silken sattin Townes are poore plaine meaning Sheepheards woondred at like Comets or blazing Starres Or is it this goodly beast by me that fills your eyes with admiration If it be so let me then resolue ye that it is an article of dutie which we Shepheards of Cotswold owe to the old Drapers of Londō for keping their flocks on the Cotswold hills that whē any worthy Brother of their Society comes to be L. Maior of this City the very fairest Ram in all their flocks is sent vnto them as a solemne offring as being the Crest of their Companies Armes and the chiefe maintainer of Wooll for cloathing In which respect my Father about some six and twenty yeares since when S. Martin Calthrope a Brother of the same Society was Lord Maior brought then the like goodly Ramme as his oblation and I hearing that his man S. Thomas Hayes and another Martin Maister Martin Lumley by the blessing of heauen and their owne vertuous endeauours were the next chosen Brethren of the same Band the one to succeed in the selfe same dignitie of the Maioraltie and the other of the Shriuealty haue brought this as my hearts