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A19674 A true relation of all the remarkable places and passages observed in the travels of the right honourable Thomas Lord Hovvard, Earle of Arundell and Surrey, Primer Earle, and Earle Marshall of England, ambassadour extraordinary to his sacred Majesty Ferdinando the second, emperour of Germanie, anno Domini 1636. By Wiliam Crowne Gentleman Crowne, William. 1637 (1637) STC 6097; ESTC S109122 38,521 77

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troubled with Mice built this and lived in it thinking there to be secure but even thither they pursued him also and eate him up then by Bingen a faire Towne on the right side and by Ehrenfels Castle on the other side to Rudeshein a Towne on the left side of the Rhine into which I entered and did see poore people praying where dead bones were in a little old house and here his Excellencie gave some reliefe to the poore which were almost starved as it appeared by the violence they used to get it from one another from hence by Geisenhem Elfeld and Wallaff three Townes on the left side of the River and then we crossed over the Rhine unto the other side Then to Mentz a great City seated close by the Rhine on the right side against which wee cast Anchor and lay on ship-board for there was nothing in the Towne to relieve us since it was taken by the King of Sweden and miserably battered there the King of Bohemia dyed in a faire corner house towards the Rivers side heere likewise the poore people were almost starved and those that could relieve others before now humbly begged to bee relieved and after supper all had reliefe sent from the Ship ashore at the sight of which they strove so violently that some of them fell into the Rhine and were like to have bin drowned The next day being the third of May from hence wee departed leaving the Rhine halfe a league above the City on our right hand and entered into a shallow River called the Maine passing by a place which the King of Sweden was building for a Fort but could not finish it then by Cassell on the left side thence by Flersheim on the left side to Russelsheim on the right of the Maine and then to the stately City of Francfurt adjacent to the Maine on the left side where we landed and lay from Collein hither all the Townes Villages and Castles bee battered pillaged or burnt and every place wee lay at on the Rhine on ship-board we watched taking every man his turne heere wee staid foure daies untill our carriages were made ready where we saw the place wherein they keepe the Dyet afterward entered into the Church called Saint Bartholmews where the Emperours use to bee crowned and take their oath the City is inhabited with Lutherans and Iewes for in the Iewes Synagogue I entered in to see the manner of their service which is an undecent way making a hideous noise having on their heads and about their neckes things called Capouchins the women are not admitted into their Synagogue but in places about And on Sunday the seventh of May by waggons through the City over two Bridges which are alwaies guarded with Souldiers leaving the Maine on our left hand from hence we tooke a Convoy of Musketiers along being wee went through much danger by Offenbach Selgenstat seated betweene us and the Maine passing thus along through a great Forest in much danger hearing the great Peeces so swiftly discharge off at Hannaw which the Swedes subdu'd and now besieged by the Emperors Forces being not above three English miles off then by a very great Mountaine two English miles long all beset with Vines untill we came at a poore little Village where wee staid and dined with provision of our owne and after dinner departed passing through Plaines untill wee came at the Maine and there ferried over into a towne called Klingenberg passing through this we came to a very high hill the way up being all stone 2. English miles up to the top and then through a Wood after we were past this we came to a poore little Village called Neunkirchen where we found one house a burning when we came and not any body in the Village heere we were constrained to tarry all night for it grew very late and no Towne neere by 4. English miles spending the night in walking up and downe in feare with Carrabines in our hands because we heard Peeces discharg'd off in Woods about us and with part of the coles of the consumed house his Excellency had his meat rosted for supper the next morning earely his Excellency went to view the Church which we found rifled with the pictures and Altars abused in the Church-yard we saw a dead body scraped out of the grave in another place out of the Church-yard there lay another dead body into many of the houses wee entered and found them all empty From this miserable place we departed and heard after that they in the Village fled by reason of the sicknesse and set that house on fire at their departure that Passengers might not be infected Then came we into Wijrtzburg-land and descended downe another steep hill and there crossed over a little River call'd Tauber and through Keichelsheim to Neubruim a poore Village where wee dined after dinner passing by the side of the Maine and through Woods and Plaines untill we came to Wijrtzburg a faire City passing over a bridge first standing over the Maine into the Towne seated on the left side of the River and a faire Castle opposite to the Towne on the other side in which the Towne put all their riches when they heard the king of Sweden was comming thinking there it would not be gain'd but they hearing of it surprised and pillaged it in 3. daies and it was 3. or 4. moneths before the Emperors forces could regaine it the next day earely departed being the 10. of May and entered Marggrafen-land and to Kiteingen to diner after diner thence through Ipza a City and so to Marckbibrach where we lay all night on the plancher for the Village was pillaged but the day before earely the next morning wee went away and passed through Neustadt which hath beene a faire City though now pillaged and burnt miserably heere we saw poore children sitting at their doores almost strav'd to death to whom his Excellency gave order for to relieve them with meat and money to their Parents from hence we went to Eilfkirchen a poore Village where wee dined with some reserv'd meat of our owne for there was not any thing to be found after diner thence we passed by many Villages pillag'd and burnt down and so into Nurnberger-land passing through the place where the King of Swedens Leaguer lay when the King of Bohemia was with him and my Lord Craven and in sight of the place the Emperors Army had intrenched themselves by the side of a great wood here the King of Sweden set upon poles alive three of his souldiers for killing 2. of their Commanders and flying presently to his Enemy and at the end of a Battaile that was then fought he tooke them prisoners and so executed them then drawing neere Nurnburg a great City seated in a Plaine which the King of Sweden relieved at that time against the Emperor being not above two English miles off heere we passed by some of
on a high hill neere unto the Towne first we passed over a bridge made of little rafts which standeth over the river Inn and so through Instadt and then ascended up the hill upon which the Monastery stands and then entered into the Chappell called our Ladies Chappell being built in the yeere 1636. where we saw a neat Altar and a picture of the Virgin Maries set up in the Altar and many fine reliques left there of those that are said to have been healed of severall diseases comming but thither to doe their Devotion and returned thence sound from hence we descended to another Chappell at the bottome of the hill passing downe 274. steps being set in order 10. and 11. together and as much plaine ground as containeth the steps thorow out the whole descent and in the middle of the descent is a Crucifix at which one daily sits to receive the almes of charitable people which Crucifix one rude person passing by strucke it and fell downe dead and never revived as these Capuchines related and then returned And opposite to the citie on the other side of the Danuby on a very high rocke is seated a strong Castle which cannot be scaled called Festingoverhouse commanding all the Townes and Monasteries at the foot of this is another strong built Fort by which the river Ilze falleth into the Danuby betweene the towne Ilze and this the citie is governed by Leopoldus the Emperours second sonne who is Bishop of it here we stayed three dayes and departed the fourth of Iune and entred into upper Austria passing by Schaumberg castle on the left side of the river and by Effertingen on the other side and Wilhering Monastery on the same side to Lintz where the Emperour was who sent to receive his Excellence at his landing the Count of Harrack Marshall of the Court with some other Courtiers after his gratulation with his Excellence there came ten or twelve coaches which waited on his Excellence to his lodging which the Emperour had provided and then returned Presently after came the Count Megaw high Steward to the Emperour to visit his Excellence and the next day Count Mansfelt Captaine of the Foot-Guard to visit his Excellence and after him Father Lemmarman his Majesties Confessour The sixth of Iune being the second day after wee came his Excellence had audience of the Emperour and Empresse who sent their coaches for us being come to his palace which is seated on a hill we went up foure ascents of staires the Guard standing on each side of us with halberds and carrabines in their hands passing thus thorow roomes untill wee came at the doore of the chamber in which the Emperour was and when his Excellence came at the doore out came the little Count of Kezell high Chamberlaine to his Majestie and brought in his Excellence and then withdrew and shut the doore after him that none might enter in after his Excellence had beene within a while we were all admitted and kissed his Majesties hand and then withdrew and passed thorow other roomes and a gallerie where the Guard stood in like manner to the Empresses chamber where none might enter neither stealing a sight of her as wee stood and then returned The eighth day his Excellence had his second audience of the Emperour as private as the first and the tenth day audience againe of the Empresse and then wee were admitted to kisse her hand the same day there were seven men beheaded which were Rebels for rising up in armes with foure hundred other Boores against the Emperour the first that was executed was said to be one that had inchanted himselfe that no bullet could hurt him and the onely seducer of the others after he was upon the scaffold and his face covered two men held him fast to the blocke then came the Executioner with a red hot paire of pincers and violently clapt hold of both his brests that done nailed his right hand fast to the blocke and chopt it off then presently whipt out his sword from his side and cut off his head one of the hangmen presently tooke it up and cryed at the eares of the head Iesus Iesus then the Iesuite which came a long with him admonishing of him desired everie one to joyne in prayers with him for him then came the other and a Boy which was beheaded likewise all making their private confessions to Priests at the foot of the scaffold having a Crucifix in their hand kissing their hands feet at the end of everie prayer After all those men were beheaded and quartered there went two of their confederates a foot to bee hanged about an English mile off to a place where a Priest of theirs hung upon a pole and his head on the top which was taken in a Church a yeere before called Ering which we afterward passed by The twelfth day being Sunday the Emperour Empresse and the Arch-Dutchesse dined at the Iesuites College but before they heard Masse in their Church and after dinner a play was presented to them by the house and some young schollers consisting of many varieties The fifteenth day his Excellencie dined at the Count Megaws and was nobly entertained the sixteenth day as we were at dinner there came a mightie clap of thunder and lightning which burnt downe three houses presently being not above an English mile off on the other side of the water and such accidents happen here often by reason all their houses be covered with thin boord in the manner of tile and about foure of the clocke in the after-noone his Excellence had audience the third time and we all invited to a Balto by the Empresses command to the Count Slavataes who is Chancellour of Prague where all the Ladies assembled and there spent the time in dancing in Moravia not farre from this place there was a Baron whose name was Rabell having a wife which couple had beene married fortie yeeres together and had many children and when he was eightie two yeeres old and his wife seventie five she conceived and brought him forth two children at a birth a sonne and a daughter which children lived a yeere and died and then presently after their parents both died and was buried in S. Michaels Church a Church of the Dominicans in Brune a towne in Moravia this storie was related to us by a Priest of the Empresses for certaine here his Excellence stayed nineteene dayes and all the time at the Emperours charge and served by his Majesties servants in as much state as he himselfe at the first course the Drums beat up and at the second musike with voyces From hence we tooke boat for Vienna the three and twentieth day of Iune passing downe the swift river Danuby neere the Church called Ering wherein the Boores assembled and chose that Priest who was taken and executed as afore-mentioned so by a faire castle called Spiulbarke where the Duke of Bavaria makes his Toll-place seated on the left side of the river
then by Markhawsen on the same side by Walzig a faire castle seated on the other side on a high hill and the towne at the foot a little beyond so by another faire castle called Crayne seated on a high rocke close by the Danuby on the left side the towne at the foot of it both belonging to the Count Megaw then thorow a place in the water called the Struddell where it runneth very swift with a great fall amongst the rockes and dangerous to passe having no more space than the breadth of a boat which if it toucheth breakes into many peeces and over this place on a high rocke is a Crosse set up having past this danger just by on the left side of the River is an old Chappell called S. Nicolas out of which came two men with his picture in a box to receive an accustomed reward due from those which passe by safe from hence by a faire castle called Besinboe seated on the same side on a rocke and by Pekelem on the same side then by Wednick castle seated on a rocke on the left side with a village beneath it so by a castle and monasterie encircled with a wall seated on a verie high rocke called Milke and the towne at the foot of the rocke along by the Danuby on the right side part of it burnt by an accident when the King of Hungary was in it and by Sable castle on a high rocke on the same side with a faire banquetting house which belongeth to the Grave Sturbutz and a little further on the same side is another banquetting-house called the Devils banquetting-house by reason of many apparitions there seene Then to a little poore Dorp called Aspagh on the left side of the Danuby where wee went a shore and lay that night Earely the next morning being the foure and twentieth day we went up the river by a castle called the Spitz seated on the same side so by Stiringsteine a faire towne on a rocke adjoyning to the river on the same side with a ruinated castle over the towne on a hill with rocks on both sides which are the Grave Van Seldingz then by another faire towne seated on the same side called Stine from which there standeth a bridge over the Danuby made of rafts having thirtie seven arches under which wee passed and at the end of it opposite to the towne is a monasterie with many faire houses belonging to it and behinde this is another stately built monasterie called Kitne seated on a hill from this an English mile distance with a delightfull prospect just by are two other faire townes the one Crempz and the other Winsell seated both on the left side of the Danuby in a plaine which three townes are within the compasse of an English mile then by Tolnie a towne on the other side which is the oldest towne in all the Empire against which wee lay a while and dined on ship-boord after dinner wee entred into lower Austria and went by an old castle called Griffopsteine seated on a rocke on the same side in which all Priests that offend are imprisoned and tried Then a Dutch mile further on the left side the Danubius runneth out to a faire Towne called Cornybrough seated an English mile off in a Plaine with faire Monasteries therein then on the other side of the river is Cloysternybrough full of Cloysters and Monasteries so by Nustorffe on the same side from whence we discovered Vienna seated in a Plaine then left the Danu which divides its selfe into sever all branches and meet beyond the Towne and runs thorow Hungary into the blacke Sea and went up in an arme of it to the Citie where wee landed seated on the right side of the Danu which is very well fortified round the wals besides a compleat Regiment of 1500 men alwayes ready in armes part watching at everie gate some about the Emperours palace others about the place where the Iewes keep their shops in the Citie for they are not suffered to lye in the Towne a night but constrained to keepe within a place on the other side of the River opposite to the Citie which they have built and is called the Iewes Burg for if any one be found all night in the Towne he is miserably punished if not put to death there are likewise 7000 Burgers in the citie which are to be in armes at an houres warning The next day being Sunday his Excellence had audience of the Queene of Hungary and the Arch-Duke Leopoldus the Emperours second sonne being the 26. day and nothing wee saw note-worthy at his palace but a spacious Court-yard the next day againe his Excellence went to see the Dukes lodging where we saw onely a few pictures from hence he went to severall houses of the Iesuites the first was a University where was presented to his Excellence a kinde of Comedy by young Schollers in masking attire and one of the house playing on an instrument like a Virginall severall kindes of musicke after that a banquet brought in by the Actors this ended we went to the second house called the Probation-house where none but young men are about fiftie in number there to be tried whether they may bee made capable of holy orders thence to the third house called the Profest-house where none but the ancient Fathers are where as soon as his Excellence entred an oration was made to him by one of the chiefe after viewed the house and Church in which there was an hymne sung by their best singers with very sweet musicke and they have an organ of five thousand pipes From hence wee returned home to our lodging where there came presently after the Prince of Ducardins to visit his Excellence The eight and twentieth day his Excellence went to see a garden of the Emperours about a Dutch mile off called Nigobath upon which place the Turke once intrenched himselfe when hee would have taken Vienna and was then two hundred thousand men strong in the Emperour Rodolphus his time and after they were driven out of the countrey the Emperour built this on their works for a memoriall the garden is almost foure-square encircled with a strong stone wall and at every corner a faire Tower and in the middle two with three partitions in everie one and the tops covered with brasse round within the wall is a walke for two to goe a brest covered with brasse and underset thicke with pillars of stone then returned wee to another very stately large garden of the Empresses neere unto the citie called her Favorita having severall small gardens adjoyning to it and a faire house the next day his Excellence went to see the Queene againe and the two Princes her Sonne and Daughter here we staid a weeke and departed the first of Iuly by waggons for Prague passing first over three long bridges handing over severall branches of the Danubius so by the wals of Cornyburgh the towne aforementioned to Stackay a poore village where
wee dined after dinner by Kildersdorf to Holebrum a poore village where wee lay all night on the straw having travelled seven Dutch miles and every Dutch mile is foure English where six and twentie houses were burnt that day fortnight wee came by thunder and lightning the next day early from hence passing thorow plaines and corne-fields which were a reaping we came to Kudordorp where Moravia begins in a great plaine where two stones are set in the ground dividing Lower Austria and Moravia then past we thorow Colendorp the first towne in Moravia and by a Crosse standing in a plaine not neere any towne with many graves about it then to Swamb a prettie towne where we dined having past that fore-noone in danger neere a great company of Crabats who were thereabouts who frighted the towne for when his Excellencies Harbenger entred the gates an houre before us they were all shutting up of their shops and running out to defend the towne After dinner thorow most plaines and corne-fields which were a reaping untill wee came at Bodewich a poore village where wee lay on the plancher and travelled that day seven Dutch miles The next day being Sunday and the third of Iuly we stayed there untill dinner and thence thorow part of a wood called Hertz-waldt on a causey two English miles long the wood being three hundred miles in length as we were credibly informed passing thorow we saw severall fires in it many strange things are likewise seene and so by Bernetz a little towne at the end of the wood to Iglo a beautifull built towne seated on a little hill where we lay that night having gone foure Dutch miles and an halfe Earely the next morning from thence passing over a River at the end of the towne which parteth Moravia and Bohemia and then thorow Stickey the first towne in Bohemia so thorow Haybeireitz a village in which an Oast killed at severall times of his guests ninetie men and made meat of them so to Dutchbrade a towne where wee dined and then departed passing thorow a plaine wooddie countrey to Holebrum where we lay that night on the plancher which was a most fearefull night of thunder and lightning having travelled seven Dutch miles The next morning wee departed and went thorow a wooddie countrey againe and thorow a towne called Shasshaw where in the street we passed thorow lieth buried the body of one Iohn Ziska who made war against the Emperour Rodolphus in the defence of his deere friend Iohn Hus who died a Martyr this Iohn Ziska in all his wars was a victor and when hee was blinde desired to bee carried up and downe the wars and at his death commanded that a Drum might be made of his skin which was done and wheresoever that was they subdued likewise then by a silver Mine of the King of Hungaries which was by the way side on a little hill into which wee entred to see their works the oare being two hundred and fiftie fathom deepe and behinde this place is a citie called Kettenburgh which wee left two English miles of our left hand and thence to Colen two English miles off likewise where we dined about part of the towne runs the River Elbe after dinner we past thorow a plaine countrey to Bemishbrade where wee lay on the plancher againe having travelled eight Dutch miles which hath beene a faire built towne and very pleasantly seated but now burnt almost downe by a Carpenter when the Emperour was in it and since been pillaged twice by the Swedish and the Duke of Bavaria his forces The next morning earely being the sixth of Iuly from thence to Prague to dinner being five Dutch miles passing first thorow very pleasant plaines and meddowes vntill we came neere the citie which is encompassed on both sides with rocks and hils all planted with vines having three townes belonging to it Newstadt Oldstadt and the Slostadt at Newstadt wee entred in at a faire gate passing thorow into Oldstadt to his Excellencies lodging which said Stadt is inhabited chiefly by Iewes who have there foure Synagogues and in one I saw there a Rabbi circumcise a child here we were told that all their fruits in the further parts of the countrey were spoyled as corne vineyards and the like by the aforesaid thunder and lightning with hailestones as big as ones fist and also divers cattell were then lost between this and the Slostadt runneth a pleasant river called the Muldow and over it standeth a faire Bridge of stone as long as London Bridge over which his Excellencie passed going to view the Castle being a stately large built Fort seated on a high hill within the Slostadt called Ketschin in which the King of Bohemia lived first wee passed thorow three faire Court-yards having at one of the gates a guard of Souldiers in which Court-yard there is a statue of S. George on horse-backe in brasse and a fountaine then entred we into a spacious hall having many faire shops in it like unto Westminster but that their Courts of Iudicature are in other roomes by it from hence wee went up and passed thorow many faire roomes well hung and pictures in them and one roome furnished with English pictures of our Nobilitie which the King of Bohemia was forced to leave passing thus untill wee came at one roome two stories high which was their Councell-chamber where the Bohemians being sat at Councell and three of the Emperours Couucell with them there rose a mutiny insomuch that they threw them three out on the ground which was fiftie five foot high and shot pistols after them yet none of them killed and two of them still alive and upon that ground they fell on are set set up three gilt crosses then went we downe into a stately lower roome which used to bee their masking roome upholden with severall faire pillars in the middle and statures of brasse placed by them by the wals hang pictures of Indian horses which were there then adjoyning to this is a large dining roome having a table in it of Mozaique worke and musicke within it not to be discerned then at the end of this roome is a little place where choyce armour is and one Piece which I saw shot off a bullet not having any powder in it then into the Schaut kamber where the treasure was and a most noble collection of the Emperour Rodolphus In the first roome was cup-boords placed in the wals on our right hand the first was of corall the second of Purslaine the third of mother of pearle the fourth of curious brasse-plates engraven the fifth and sixth Mathematicall Instruments the seventh Basons Ewers and cups of Amber the eighth cups of Aggets Gold and Chrystall the ninth of rocks the tenth of Mozaique worke in stone the eleventh cups of Ivorie and a great Unicornes horne a yard in length the twelfth of imbossing worke the thirteenth of Brasse pictures the foureteenth of antick
secunda Astraea apud Iovem Deosque de mortalium sceleribus queritur Iupiter auditis sententiis orbem Marti Vulcanoque puniendum tradit Scena tertia Pax desolata quaerit locum ubi Martis furorem declinet Neptunus in Angliam marina choncha eam vehit Scena quarta Mars globum terrae in varias partes dividit Bellonae furori caeterisque asseclis distribuit Pars secunda Scena prima Ceres Apollo Bacchus deplorant apud Iovem illam quam a Marte patiuntur calamitatem Iupiter ad Neptunum eos destinat Scena secunda Neptunus se Carolo Britanniae Regimaris imperium commisisse nunciat illum adeant pro pace orbi reddenda Scena tertia Mercurius bene sperare Cererem Phoebum jubet Carolum Regem Pacem brevi reducturum per L egatum Howardum Arundelliae Comitem pristinis sedibus se restituendam Pax asserit gratulantur sibi omnes Howardo applaudunt Epilogus Ad Gentilicia Howardicae Familiae Symbola alludens faelicia omnia Legato apprecatur ominatur eum veneratus suo omnium nomine gratias agit Plaudite Peace is in England which having beene a long while exiled and given over as gone is now about to returne into Germany A Masque When the most Illustrious and most Excellent Thomas Howard Earle of Arundell and Surrey Extraordinarie Ambassadour from his Puissant Majestie of Great Britaine to the most August Emperour Ferdinand the Second and to the rest of the Princes of Germany came to visit the Iesuites College presented by the Students at Prague 1636. The Prologue Mercuries servant imployed about making ready of the Theatre fals upon little children who would faine see the Ambassadour of the King of England he tels them that they cannot see him in the Theatre unlesse they will congratulate his comming whom when by reason of their tender age they cannot salute in Latine they doe performe it in their native language in a differing Idiome The first Part. The first Scene Mercury entertaines the Gods and Goddesses with their severall attendants in a proper habit comming to Councell and appoints to every one their places The second Scene Astraea complaines to Iupiter and the rest of the Gods of the crimes of men Iupiter having heard their opinions delivers over the world to be punished by Mars and Vulcan The third Scene Peace now forlorne seeks out for a place where she may secure herselfe from the fury of Mars Neptune carries her over into England in a sea-shell The fourth Scene Mars divides the globe of the earth into divers parts and distributes them to the furie of Bellona and his other agents The second Part. The first Scene Ceres Apollo and Bacchus bewaile before Iupiter the calamitie which they suffer from Mars Iupiter sends them unto Neptune The second Scene Neptune tels them that hee hath committed the Imperiall government of the sea to Charles King of Great Britaine and that they must make suit to him to restore peace unto the world The third Scene Mercury bids Ceres and Apollo to be of good cheere and wils them not to doubt but that King Charles will shortly by his Ambassadour Howard Earle of Arundle reduce Peace Peace affirmeth that shee shall be restored to her former dwellings they doe all gratulate one another and give their acclamations to Howard The Epilogue Alluding to the Armes of the House of the Howards both wish and presage all happinesse to the Ambassadour and having made obeysance to him give him thanks for himselfe and for all the rest Here we stayed seven dayes and departed the thirteenth of Iuly for Regenspurg by waggons over the plaine where the great battell was fought betweene the Emperour and the King of Bohemia not above two English miles from the citie there wee did observe many places in the ground wherein the dead bodies were put and a great company of bones lying by on a heape where were slaine in all on both sides about thirtie thousand from thence thorow a plaine corne countrey to a little towne three Dutch miles from Frague called Beroum where wee lay which towne hath beene burnt by the Duke of Saxon his forces The next morning earely wee went thorow plaine corne-fields and meddowes untill we came to Mauth a poore village where we dined from thence thorow woods and by poore villages burnt to a prettie towne called Pilsen where we lay that night having travelled seven Dutch miles it is seated in a plaine with three little rivers running by it as Misen Glatow and Pilsen taking the name from the towne The next morning thorow a wooddie countrey and corne-fields to Swabe to dinner after dinner to Bishopsteine to bed having this day travelled but foure Dutch miles in which the Count Dorfmastaff hath a little castle pleasantly seated and the river Igree running about part of it the towne was never pillaged as yet Earely the next morning from thence passing thorow a very stony hill and a wood foure English miles in length called Bemer-waldt wherein about the middest there is a Schans in which Count Mansfelt and his Armie lay two moneths at which Schans the upper Palatinate begins Then to Waldminiken a little towne to dinner the first in the upper Palatinate and the Oast of the house did serve Count Mansfelt as Ancient at that time after dinner thorow a wooddie poore countrey to Redtz a little towne where we lay that night having travelled six Dutch miles The seventeenth day being Sunday early we departed passing thorow great woods in danger of the Crabats lying thereabouts and carried out of our way by by chance through an ignorant guide untill we came to Bruke a towne miserably ruinated seated pleasantly in a plaine where there was not above foure poore housholds remaining not long since it was in great prosperitie for when wee were a little past the towne there was a gallowes and scaffold by the way whereon the Burgers of the towne suffered and many hanging still who were Lutherans then to a towne called Nettenow to dinner and from thence after dinner to Regenspurg having travelled seven Dutch miles this day passing first thorow many pleasant places of landskips and over the river Regen which runneth into the Danuby just by the citie passing over on rafters the bridge being beaten downe then with the other former batteries between Vienna and this place are many faire built townes promising much by reason of their severall Piazzo's or Market-places and Fountaines with other such expressions but entring the houses scarse finde men lodging or people of understanding to exchange discourse with The next day after his Excellence came hither the Ambassadour of the Elector of Brandenburg visited him and the day after his Excellence visited him againe here his Excellence stayed but foure dayes because the Emperour was not come and departed for Augusta on Thursday the one and twentieth of Iuly and dined that day at Sall a small towne on the Danuby thence thorow
Curie an English Gentleman entertained his Excellence that night the Towne is very pleasantly seated upon the East side of the Rhyne and the ●●rest thinges in it are Flowers for there was a Tulip-roote sold lately for 340. pounds as Sir Ferdinando informed his Excellence The next morning wee tooke Boate and crossed over the River though with much danger and difficulty in the wet the winde and tyde contrary being got ashorm went to Vtrecht where we lay that night which was but 2. leagues and where there then dyed of the Plague 80. a weeke but a little before 300 from the 〈◊〉 to Leydon next day to Bed travelling very late and ●●ght leagues this day where some of the Princes the Queene of Bohemia's Sonnes were at Schoole whom his Excellence presently visited and there met with some Gentlemen which the Queene had sent to meet his Excellence and two of her Coaches to fetch him to the Hague The next day before his Excell● went away he viewed the chiefe things of note in the Towne as the Vniversities the Anatomie Schoole which before we had not leysure to see and from thence after dinner to the Hague which was but 3. leagues being Wednesday the 14 th day of December and their Christmas Eve Thus leaving his Excellence at the Hague I went for Amsterdam that famous Citie first by Waggon to Harlem which was five leagues where I lay that night being a very well built Towne the next day to the Citie it selfe which was three leagues passing all the way upon a Cawsey by Harlem-Meare on my right hand and the River Tey on the left and entred in at Harlem-Port and past through all the new Towne and over three large Graufts Princes Keasers and the Heares Grauft these Streets be three Quarters of an English mile in length two hundreth paces in bredth having an even row of stately beautifull Buildings and Trees planted the whole length of the Graufts side and so into the old Towne which is not of so stately a building but the whole Citie is built upon Piles in the water and a great Channell runneth through every Street for the Marchants ships to sayle to their doores their Exchange is built much like unto that in London both beneath and above but that it wants a little in breadth with water running under it there is a very large building called the Weishouse wherein all poore Children Fatherlesse or of decayed Parents are there maintained and brought up and there is now at this present time 800. all clad alike the one side of their garments Blacke and the other Red there is likewise foure Hospitals adjoyning one unto another for Men and Women to be severed each from other the East and West Indian Houses two rare Builings and curious within and many other delightfull things to please the eye heere I stayed two dayes and on Saturday the 17. day of December at 5. of the clocke at night tooke a S●utz drawne by a Horse and went up a River along by the side of the Cawsey than I passed downe on before to Harlem and there at 10. of the clocke in the Evening tooke a Waggon and travailed all night to the Hague which was five leagues but ferried over the Rhyne at two in the morning and got thither by 8. of the clocke where wee stayed Eight dayes and the most part of the time was spent at the Queenes Court and the rest in visites betweene the Prince of Orange the States and three Ambassadors which were there as Monsieur Charnesse from France Seignior Carmerarius for the Swedes the Venetian Ambassador and the Count of Culenburg but hearing our Ship was come his Excellence tooke leave of the Queene at 10. of the clocke at night and came away next morning being Wednesday the one and twentieth of December and Prince Maurice along with him to Keswicke where the Prince of Orange hath a House which his Excellence viewed and then the Prince taking leave returned backe againe and his Excellence rode on forward in her Majesties Coach to Delft where he dined in which Towne there are as many Bridges as Dayes in the yeare and so many Channels and Streets where Boates doe passe up and downe and one common Passage under a Church-yard under which wee did passe from thence by a Scute to Rotterdam where we lay which is from the Hague five leagues untill that the winde served us and then on Saturday being the 24. of December and Christmas Eve by our stile at a 11. of the clocke in the night tooke Boates and went to our Ship sayling first through Magan Sluce to Helver-Sluce where our Ship called the Garland did ride at anchor and about 3. in the afternoone set sayle and sayled over the Barre having a Pilate sayling before us with a Lanthorne on the top of his Mast sounding for the depth all the way and the next day at twelue of the clocke cast Anchor in the Dounes and there rid and could not land for the roughnesse of the Sea untill Tuesday morning the 27. of December and then landed at Deale and from thence by Poast to Canterbury and so to Sittinburne to bed The next day in the morning earely to Gravesend and there tooke water for London where on the way my Right Honourable Lady met his Excellence who exchanged Barges and there she entertained him with a Banquet and so earely the next morning went to Hampton Court to his Majesty FINIS Hage Utrecht Schen●●shants Wesell Dusseldorp Collen Coblentz Bacharach Mentz Francfurt Neunkirchen Wurtzburg Marckbibrach Noremberg Newmark Regenspurg Straubingen Vilshoven Lintz Aspagh Holebrum Swamb Bodewic Iglo Shasshaw Bemishbrade Pragu Bishopsteine Regensp Palermo Hemmaw Nuremburg Wirtzburg Bishopsheim Mildebarke Selgenstadt Frankfort Hannaw Coblentz Collen Mulheim Dusseldorpe Teill Amsterdam Hague
on the left side where the Duke of Neiuburgh lay who was with his Dutchesse abroad taking the aire but espying us comming returned backe into the Towne with speed and sent to have the Ports shut up thinking wee had beene some Enemy but hearing it was his Excellency was very joyfull and sent Coaches for him to come and suppe with him and to make his house his lodging the time he staid but the next morning after breake-fast perceiving his Excellency would goe away had three Coaches waiting at the doore into one hee put his Excellency and us into the rest and brought us out of Towne with a Company of Horsemen and Foote in Armes and a Troope of Lances going before and Trumpets sounding about the Coach his owne Guard being thus brought without the Gates hee tooke his leave of his Excellency and returned and as wee were departing there went off great peeces of Ordnance Thence neere Neusse and then crossed over the Rhine at a little Dorpe called Hittorpe into the Territory of Collein and then to the City where we lay It is seated on the right side of the Rhine where the Bishop of Mentz was who sent one of his Privie Counsell to invite his Excellency the next day to diner he then sent three of his Coaches for us and gave his Excellency very noble entertainement the first night his Excellency came were presented unto him twenty foure Flaggons of severall kindes of Wine the next day twenty eight and at every Present there was a long speech made to his Excellency in Latine by one that came with the Wine which came all from the Magistrates of the City in Flaggons with the City Armes on them the Jesuits there have built them a very stately Church and richly adorned it with gildings and erected an Altar one of the state liest I ever saw in the City likewise there is a great Church called the Dome wherein lye the Bodies of three Kings called The three Kings of Collein which went to worship our Saviour then is there another Church called Saint Ursulas in which lyeth the bones of 1100. Virgins in places locked up and Saint Ursula in a faire Tombe by them which came all thither with her for their Devotion there is besides a Nunnery and some English Nunnes there Heere we staid a weeke and the twenty eighth day wee tooke a Boate drawne with nine horses and went up the Rhine by many Villages pillaged and shot downe and many brave Vineyards on Mountaines along the Rivers side passing by Bonn on the right side and seven high Burghens with old Castles on them seated on the other side of the River and to Drachenfels Castle on the left of the Rhine against which wee cast Anchor and lay that night on ship-board the next morning earely weighed Anchor passi●● 〈◊〉 an Island in which is a Monastery of Nunnes called ●onenwerther so on by Hammerstein Castle by Keigrmagen Andernach and Ormus three Townes on the right side of the Rhine against Ormus wee cast Anchor and lay on ship-board The next day earely weighed Anchor and went by Engers on the left side and there begunne Trierischlandt and so to Coblentz a Towne adjoyning to the Rhine on the right side which the French lately lost being driven out by the Emperours Forces into a Castle seated on a very high Rocke opposite to the Towne called Hermanstein which commandeth the Towne who were then skirmishing when wee came wherefore wee cast Anchor about halfe an English mile before and sent a Trumpeter desiring passage which they willingly granted ceasing their fight on both sides the Generall in the Towne making preparation to entertaine his Excellency did but open the Gate thinking to cleare the passage for his Excellencies entrance presently they in the Castle let flye a Cannon and were like to have slaine some of them wherefore they withdrew from shewing of themselves untill his Excellency came against the Gate and then came forth and intreated his Excellency to dine with him but hee staid not having a long way to goe that night they in the Castle are besieged on every side before them are Cannons placed just by the Rivers side behinde them are a great company of Horsemen called Crabbats beyond them in a plaine great field are other Horsemen and Footemen and likewise in Islands in the Rhine all watching that they cannot be relieved they in the Towne if they doe but looke out of their windowes have a bullet presently presented at their heads yet the Towne is somewhat the stronger for a River called the Mosell which runneth along one side of the Towne into the Rhine over which there did stand a faire Bridge though part of it now be beaten downe that there is no passage over but have made a little lower on the Mossell a passage on Boates to relieve the Towne under the Castle there is a very beautifull house which the Emperour gave to the Elector of Tryer and hee resigned it to the French whereupon the Spaniard besieged him when he lay in a faire Castle on the Mossell called Tryer and tooke him prisoner and is prisoner now as wee were departing from hence the French gave us a brave vollie of shot as hath beene heard with foure or five peeces of Ordnance from hence up the Rhine by Lonstein and Branbach two Townes on the left side and Capelle a Castle on a Rocke on the other side to Boppart a Towne on the same side against which wee cast Anchor and lay aboard The first of May being Sunday and their Whit-sunday we departed passing by Villages shot downe and by many pictures of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary set up at the turnings of the water untill we entered the Land of Hesse where we still viewed pleasant Vines on the Mountaines so by Saint Goware and by Rhinefilds Castle both on the right side to Catzenelbogon Castle on the other side then by Oberwesell on the right side then begins the Lower Palatinate so by Caub on the left side which is the first Towne in the Pfaltz and so to Pfaltz Castle seated in a little Iland in the River from hence to Bacharach a Towne where we landed it is seated on the right side of the Rhine having a Castle on a high Rocke within the walls and under that a Church which is from the plaine ground 100. steps before one can come into it heere the poore people are found dead with grasse in their mouthes from hence by a Village on the same side in which none but Leapers are being not farre off the Towne and so to Hambach on the same side by Drechshausen on the other side to Armanshausen a Towne on the left side of the Rhine against which we cast Anchor and lay on Ship-board The next morning departed hence and then begun Momtzistzland so by a little Tower in the water called Mouse Thour which one Otto a Bishoppe of Mentz having lived not well being much
their workes before the Towne and then entered the Gate into the City being very stately built and one of the strongest in Germany and so to his Excellencies lodging the next day the Lords of the City came and visited his Excellency here we staid II daies untill his Excellency had word for certain where the Emperor was the most part of our time was spent in seeing of the rare things in the Towne as a very brave Magazine wherein all their munition lieth which the Governours of the towne shewed his Excellency at our first entrance wee passed through a large Court where there lay on our left hand 4. great Cannons by the walles side which were 6. paces long and 2. foote broad and worke-houses there likewise then entered we into a long roome where there hung on both sides armour for foot and horse and then into the place it selfe where there were 6. partitions each 28. paces long and 6. broad all full of brasse Peeces and other small ones of severall rare inventions from hence we went to see a very rare water-worke which supplieth all the City adjoyning close to the wall of the Towne returning homewards we entered into their great Church call'd the Dome there his Excellency was shewed a very stately picture of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary which hung in the middle of the Quire drawne up which had not bin shewed to any in 18. yeeres before and then return'd home and the Lords with him who supped with his Excellency the next day they dined with him likewise and after diner desired his Excellency to goe and take the aire in some of their Gardens without the City which he did the City is very strong being encompassed without the wals with bulwarkes and a mighty deepe and wide ditch and within are many curiosities and stately buildings the ancient men called Lords governe by turnes not acknowledging any particular Prince their Soveraigne but hold correspondency with all for in the time of those great wars between the Emperor and the King of Sweden they would resigne to the Emperor one while and to the K. another paying great taxes impositions to their halfe undoing Frō hence we departed May 22. being Sunday for Regenspurgh thinking there to meete with the Emperor first p●ssing through a part of the upper Palatinate to Newmark where we lay seated in a plaine where the king of Bohemia had a house which his Excellency viewed adjoyning to the wall within the Towne fortified with bulwarkes and pallizadoes having spacious roomes and a faire Armory early the next morning from hence by Churches demolished to the ground and through Woods in danger understanding that Crabbats were lying heere about untill we came at a poore little Village called Hemmaw where we staied and dined which hath beene pillaged eight and twenty times in two yeeres and twice in one day and they have there no water but that which they save when it raineth after dinner to Ettershansen a poore Village where we crossed over a little River in Boates the Bridge being burnt downe by the Swedes forces from hence wee ascended up a high hill being descended downe wee passed a long on an high banke having the River Danubius on our right hand and high Mountaines with Vines on our left passing thus through severall Villages beaten downe or burnt untill we came at a round Fort before the Bridge which a guard kept and so over it through a Tower in the middle standing over the Danuby which runneth with as swift a current as at London Bridge dividing it selfe into severall Ilands which have had howses on them but now burnt and also houses on the Arches which were demolished likewise then into the Citie Regenspurg to his Excellencies lodging the Citie hath bin taken by the Swedish forces and regained by the King of Hungary The 25. day his Excellency went to take the ayre on the other side of the Towne and as we went did see the ruines of many houses and Churches and one Carthusian Monastery not so much ruinated as the rest into which his Excellency entered to see the roomes wherein the King of Hungary did lie all the time hee was regaining of the Citie being not above two English miles off it and heere likewise the old Duke of Bavaria this Dukes Father lived in a Cell for many yeers together againe his Excellency went to take the ayre the 28. day and entered into a Jesuites Monastery in which there is one Altar dedicated to S. George here his Excellency staied a weeke and departed thence for Liniz where the Emperour was taking foure Boates and went downe the Danow thorough Bavaria passing by a Castle called Donastauff seated on a high Mountaine with a Dorpe at the foote of it adjoyning to the Danubij on the left side and by Werth Castle on the same side to Straubingen on the same side where we landed about eleuen at night and lay that night the next morning from thence still by many ruines to Pogen on the right side at the foote of a very high Mountaine and on the top of it a Church with a few houses about it then by Nuternberg Castle seated on a high Mountaine on the right side of the River and by Deckendorff on the other side against which wee met with thirty horses fastened all to one rope drawing of sixe great boats which were going to Regenspurg then by a Castle called Tawrin● seated on a high Mountaine and below at the bottome is a Towne walled round called Overwinter on the left side and so to Vilshoven a towne on the right of the Danuby where wee landed and lay that night The next morning as his Excellency was taking Boate he spied a poore Boy standing among other poore people begging for reliefe who looked very strangely and could neither speake nor heare but a little at his mouth and nose having neither eares nor passage to heare with and his face very thin drawne aside yet when one hallowed hee heard and answered againe with a noise there was with him his sister a pretty girle who when one spake to him made him understand by signes these two his Excellency tooke along with him in his Boate to a City called Passaw seated on the right side of the Danuby where we landed lay and there common ded to have new clothes made for them gave them monie and sent them home to their freinds and a little before we came thither endeth Bavaria this Citie is seated very sweetly having 3. rivers running neere it the Danuby which is of a green color incompasseth it of one side and a swift river called Inn on the other side which commeth out of Italy and is of a white color the third is Ilze which is very blacke and commeth out of Bohemia and both runne into the Danuby at the end of the towne the next day his Excellency went to view a Capuchine Monastery seated very pleasantly
Bavaria to Augsburg a verie fine towne standing on the river Volga which a little before fals into the Danuby and thence that night to Neistadt a faire towne ten miles from Regenspurg where his Excellence lay that night Next day earely passing thorow a fine wooddie countrey to Bezanzon where my Lady Abbesse gave his Excellence a banquet from thence after dinner to Palermo a stately towne and there lay that night having travelled seven Dutch miles Satturday being the three and twentieth of Iuly we departed for Augusta passing thorow part of Tiroll to Mumantia burnt some two yeeres since by Generall Cleandor one of the King of Swedens Colonels and from thence to Dole which hath been a verie pleasant situated towne standing on the brow of a hill from whence at the distance of three English miles we beheld Augusta which towne of Dole was also with Bezanzow burnt by Colonell Cleandor two yeeres since passing thorow this towne we descended into a goodly valley but ere we gut into it went over a small arme of the river Tanais which encompasseth Augusta on the West as the river Vindilicorum doth on the East passing this valley which is the more famous in respect at the upper end of it was fought the great battell of Pharsalia between Pompey Iulius Caesar from whence it takes the name of the Plaine of Pharsalia drawing neere Augusta we passed over five bridges standing over the river Vindilicorum which is divided into so many branches so running with so many Bulwarks the river water is of an excellent greene colour which is caused as they say running out of Copperas mines which are in the mountaines of Dalmatia from whence it springs taking its name from Vindix a famous Captaine who first rebelled against Nero passing over all these bridges we entred the outer towne which is well built and so in at a broad port thorow the high street to his Excellences lodging that day and the next was spent in seeing pictures Munday being the five and twentieth day his Excellence went to see the Stadt-house First you must understand it to bee a square pile of at least one hundred foot square in the middest against the street yee enter by a large paire of staires of thirteene steps into a stately lower roome supported by twelve Calcidonian pillars opposite to which against the wals stand the images of the first Caesars which because they were written under I will mention as first Augustus the City Founder from whence it takes the name then Tiberius Nero Sergius Andronicus Meleager Themistocles Lysimachus Orion Phoebus Enobarbus and Barbarossa over it in another roome which to come to wee passed up sixe and thirty staires which as the other was supported by twelve Pillars of Corinthian worke and Jasper stone in which is painted to the life which they say was done by Apelles and Michael Angelo the one the master the other the man are the Images of Lycurgus Zeno Aristocrates Aristides Agathocles Phocion Anaxagoras the first Triumvirat of Rome thence by thirty steppes more into the State-house it selfe which is a most curious peece of Worke without Pillers peeced with Onyx and Smarage two excellent kindes of Marble found in the Teneriffe a mountaine of Tiroll it is about the Walles painted with the Stories of all the gods painted by Raphael Urbine some twelve yeeres since against this State-house stands a goodly Fountaine in the middle on a Pedastall of Brasse the Statue of Augustus environed with all the gods and goddesses to the number of forty in Brasse in Polonian Cassockes and Turkish Scymiters by their sides in the middest of the high street is another of Mercurie and at the farther end Hercules in a Lions skinne killing of Hydra with his seventy heads all in Brasse which as soone as he strikes off one head two ariseth in the place there are besides in this Towne many other rare things as an Arsenall brave Monasteries Fugger house water workes most innumerable and admirable rare and curious buildings and what not to delight the eye heere his Excellency staied a weeke And thence on Sunday hearing the Emperour was a comming to Regenspurg departed that day being the one and thirty of Iuly another way for Regenspurg through the Mountaines of Tiroll to Niburg where wee lay being seven Dutch miles a stately Towne from whence the Duke of Niburg takes his name it stands on a small River Boristines which is of a blacke colour as rising out from the cole Mines of Epirus The next day through Swaben and to Ingolstate the strongest Towne in all Mesia which is a part of Bavaria which Towne kept out the King of Sweden and killed his Horse under him whose skinne is preserved still for a Relique in the Arsenall it is the stronger having the Danu and a large Plaine on the South and the swift River Rhodanus on the North which not above a mile before falles into the Danu The next day which was the third of August his Excellency tooke Boate and that night arrived at Regenspurg passing first by many small places not worth the naming except Rellein a great Towne which had anciently beene a Colony De Corvinus the Dictators as it is said The Emperours comming to Towne was in this manner when he entered the first Gate of the City twelve of the Magistrates standing there made a long Oration to his Majesty after their duty done then past through a round where Musicke and voyces were and a Canopie borne by sixe men having his Majesties Armes thereon passing thus along the Streets through seven hundred Souldiers placed in order and his owne Guard of an hundred men about his Coach the Empresse being with him and after his Coach were an hundred Horsemen with Carabines and Pistols who alwayes guard his Person called Harshers clothed alike then followed the Archdutchesse in her Coach and all the rest in their degrees untill they came at the great Church where his Majesty alighted and went in where the Bishoppe of the City met him at the enterance being clothed in his robes with his Miter Cope and Croysers Staffe burnt incense to them being upon their knees after went up to the high Altar and there heard Te Deum sung with Drummes and Trumpets this ended retyred into his Pallas which doth adjoyne to the Church The fifth day his Excellency had audience of the Emperour and Emperesse the next day Conde d' Oniato the Spanish Ambassadour Extraordinary visited his Excellency guarded by twelve Polakes having Carabines on their shoulders and sables by their sides whose sonne is now Ambassadour Extraordinary in England The nineth day his Excellencie visited him the same day the Duke of Bavaria came and his Dutchesse being bigge with childe was brought in her chaire from the waters side attended with eight hundred thirty and seven persons and seven hundred sixty and foure horses and have taken five hundred quarters for them heere in the Towne The next day being Sunday