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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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especially with the Irish by their nature pliable to a hard hand and iadish when vpon the least pricking of prouender the bridle is let loose vnto them therefore his L P purposed to perswade that the Army should stand in some conuenient strength till the Kings reuenues were increased and established so as Ireland might be a nursery to maintaine some conuenient number of old Souldiers without any charge to England and till the reformation of Religion and due obedience to the Magistrate were at least in some good measure settled in Ireland and especially in the foresaid Cities A Lyst of the Army as it was disposed at the Lord Mountioyes returne for England about the eight and twentieth of May in the beginning of the yeere 1603. Horse in Lemster The Lord Lieutenant 100. Master Marshall 50. Sir Henrie Harrington 25. Sir Edward Harbert 12. Sir William Godolphin 50. Sir Richard Greame 50. Sir Garret Moore 25. Sir Francis Rush 12. Captaine Flemming 25. Horse in Mounster The Lord President 100. The Earle of Thomond 50. Captaine Taffe 50. Horse in Connaght Sir Oliuer Iambert Gouernour 25. The Earlè of Clanrickard 50. Sir Oliuer S. Iohns 25 Captaine Wayman Prouost Marshall 12. Horse in Vlster Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernor of Carickfergus 25. Sir Henry Dockwra Gouernor of Longfoyle 100. Sir Richard Treuer at the Newry 50. Sir Henry Folliot at Ballishannon 50 Captaine Iohn Iephson 100. Totall of Horse 1000 Foote in Lemster The Lord Lieutenant 200 The Earle of Ormond 150 Master Marshall 150. Sir Hen. Power 150. Sir W. Fortescue 150. Sir Geo. Bourcher 100. Sir Fra. Rush 150. Capt. Coach 150. Capt. Lau. Esmond 150. In all 1350. Foote in Mounster first at Waterford Sir Ric Moryson Gouernour of Waterford and the County of Wexford hauing his owne Company yet in Lecale Sir Fran. Stafford 200. Sir Ben Berry 150. Capt. iosias Bodley 150. Cap. Ellis Iones 150. Capt. Hen. Bartley 150. Capt. Ed. Fisher 150. Captaine Legg 100. Capt. Ralph Counslable 100. Totall 1100. Foote at Corke The L. President 200. Sir Christ S. Laurence 150. Sir The Loftus 100. Mr. Treasurer 100. Capt. Haruy 100. Sir Ed. Wingfeild 200. Sir Garret Haruy 150. Capt. Coote 100. In all 1100. Foote at Lymrick The Earle of Thomond 200. The Lord Audley 150. Sir George Thorneton 150. Sir Francis Bartely 150. Sir Francis Kinsmel 100. Captaine Stafford 100. Captaine Thomas Boyse 100. Captaine George Kinsmell 100. In all 1000. At Kinsale Sir Ric. Percy 150. In Kerry Sir Charles Willmott 150. At Baltemore Capt. Flower 100. At Halebolin Fort Capt. Fr. Slingsby 100. In all 500. Totall Foote in Mounster 3700. Foote in Connaght Sir Oliuer Lambert Gouernour 150. The Earle of Kildare 150. The Earle of Clanrickard 150. Sir Samuel Bagnol 150. Sir Edward Harbert 100. Sir Francis Shane 100. Sir Oliuer S. Iohns 200. Sir Tibbot Dillon 100. Captaine Ghest 150. Cap. Skipwith 100. Cap. Thomas Roper 150 Captaine Thomas Rotheram 150. Captaine Harison 100. Captaine Rorie O Donnell 150. Capt. Tibott Bourke 100. Captaine Tyrrell 150. For the Iudges vse 100. Sir Tho. Bourk 150. In all 2400. Foote in Vlster as at Knockfergus Sir Arthur Chichester Gouernour 200. Sir Francis Conwey 150. Capt. Roger Langford 100. Capt. Tho. Phillips 100. Capt. H. Sackford 100. In all 650. At Mountioy Captaine Francis Roe Gouernour 150. Capt. Edw. Morryes 100. Cap. George Blount 100. In Lecale Richard Moryson late Gouernour to be remoued to Waterford 200. At Armagh Capt. Williams 150. At the Newry Capt. Treuer 100. At Canan Sir Garret Moore 100. At Chhrlemount Capt. Toby Cawfeild 150. At Mount Norris Capt. Atherton 150. At Dundalke Capt. Ferdinand Freckleton 100. At Monaghan and Ruske Capt. Edward Blany Gouernour 150. Sir Iames Fitz Peirce 100. Sir Edward Fitz Garrett 100. In all 1650. Foote at Ballishannon Sir Henrie Follyot Gouernour 150. Capt. Edw. Basset 100. Capt. I. Phlllips 100. Capt. Thom. Bourke 100. Capt. Dorington 100. Capt. W. Winsor 150. Capt. Ralph Sidley 100. Captaine Oram 100. In all 900. Foote at Loughfoyle Sir Henrie Dockwra Gouernour 150. Captaine Richard Hansard 200. At the Liffer a place in the Gouernours iudgement most necessary to bee held by the English and guardable with one hundred men to be maintained by land annexed to the Towne were left for the present Sir Matthew Morgan 150. Capt. Nith Pinner 100. Capt. Bassel Brooke 100. At Newtowne a most necessary Garrison and guardable by 30 men was left Captaine Atkinson 100. At Omy necessary and requirrng this guard Capt. Edw. Leigh 100. At Aineigh lesse necessary Capt. Lewis Orrell 100. Capt. Ellis Flyod 100. At Colmarhetreene lesse necessary Capt. Io. Vanghan 100. At Colrane a most necessary Garrison and requiring no lesse number to guard it left Capt. Ioh. Sidney 100. At Ramullan a necessary Garrison to be held and guardable with 50 men left Captaine Ralph Bingley 100. At Do Castle necessary and requiring this guard Capt. Tho. Badbey 100. At Colmore most necessary to be held was left Capt. Hart with 20 men spared out of the former Companies In all 1500 Totall of Foote 11150. The charge of the Irish warres in the last yeere 1602 beginning the first of April and ending the last of March besides concordatums munition and other extraordidaries two hundred fourescore ten thousand seuen hundred thirtie three pound eight shillings nine pence halfe penny farthing halfe farthing The charge of the Irish warres from the first of October 1598 to the last of March 1603 being foure yeeres and a halfe besides great concordatums great charge of munitions and other great extraordinaries eleuen hundred fourescore eighteene thousand seuen hundred seuenteene pound nineteene shillings one penny The charge of the Army as is abouesaid forecast for the yeere following beginning the first of Aprill 1603 to the last of March 1604 the horse standing as in the former list but the foote to be reduced to 8000 amounts to one hundred sixty three thousand three hundred fifteene pound eighteene shillings three pence farthing halfe farthing In the yeere 1613 by the intreaty of my brother Sir Richard Moryson Vice-President of Mounster and out of my desire to see his children God had giuen him in Ireland besides some occasions of my priuate estate I was drawne ouer againe into Ireland where we landed the ninth of September miraculously preserued from shipwrack For at nine of the night being darke at that time of the yeere we fell vpon the coast of Ireland and not well knowing the coast but imagining it to be Yoghall Port we tacked about to beate out at Sea the night following But hauing some howers before sprung a Leake and our Pumpes being foule so as they would not worke we had no hope to liue so long at sea and againe not knowing the coast wee durst not venture to put in vpon it besides that in case it were Yoghall Harbour our best fortune was to enter a barrd Hauen by night In this distresse by diuine Prouidence we were preserued the Moone breaking
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
prospect and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die No situation can be imagined more pleasant then that of Arqua lying in the mouth of Mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua famous for the corrupting of 〈◊〉 Army But it is a 〈◊〉 worke to praise the Euganian hils which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified Vpon Friday the third day of March after the new stile in the beginning of the yeere 1593 according to the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary of the end of the yeere 1594 according to the English beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes which support the vines so that one field giues bread wine and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way that I might see a wonderfull Caue and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza The Caue was large and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes because there were certaine mils which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written AEolus hic clauso ventorum 〈◊〉 cere regnat AEolus here in the winds prison raignes The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke but the building howsoeuer it be very stately is not like to that of other Cities in these parts in this one point namely that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes and being supported with arches giueth the passengers shelter from raine Here I did see a Theater for Playes which was little but very faire and pleasant In the market place there is a stately Pallace and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars is fairely built and hath a rich Library and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned The Citie is subiect to the Venetians and is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates called quarterolli and for the stable so they call hay straw and the stable roome and so I will hereafter call it I paid twenty soldi Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi for a foote-man that had attended me hither and was to returne to Paduoa From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona in a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy lying on my left hand towards Italy farther then I could see and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes abounding with vines growing low vpon hort stakes and yeelding rich wines I entered Verona on the East side by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono They write that the City was of old called Berona by the name of the Founder thereof but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans and had the name of the Family Vera and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute the necke whereof lies towards the West on which side the Riuer Athesis running towards the East doth not only compasse the City but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer The bankes of Athesis vulgarly called 〈◊〉 Adice are ioined together with three bridges of stone and one of marble and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils rising towards the distant mountaines It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with Arches to auoid raine as other Cities are in those parts but the building of the houses is stately and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses as the manner is in strong Townes It hath a pure aire and is ennobled by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens who are indued with a chearefull countenance magnificent mindes and much inclined to all good literature Verona was a free City vnder the Empire about the yeere 1155 till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City about the yeere 1259 did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City and made themselues Lords ouer it At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew partner with him of that Lordship about the yeere 1381 was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius the first Duke of Milan and he being dead William Scaliger helped by Francis Carrariensis droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted as scarcely any one was to be found of that name the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable treason of the said Francis to make the City subiect to them but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere 1509 by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian the City became subiect to the said Emperour till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517 vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth in great aboundance of all things On the North-side of the City without the wals is the mountaine Baldo hanging ouer the City and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes and vpon the side of this mountaine within the wals are no buildings but onely a strong Fort. On the south side lies the way to Mantua 23 miles distant and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine fiue miles long and ennobled with many skirmishes battels and victories In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri and Odoacer King of the Heruli who destroied the Westerne Empire was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy then possessing Italy
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
then the foundation of the third the fields on that side being plaine yet in like sort rising higher and higher as they be neerer to the wals of the City saue that neere the foresaid Pallace of Constantine some hils lie without the wals This City as Rome is said to containe seuen Hils or mounts within the wals wherof some to me seemed imaginary but I will reckon them as they doe and first beginne with the hill vpon which stand the ruines of Constantines Pallace The second hath the stately Mosche or Turkish Church built vpon the Pallace which of old belonged to the Graecian Patriarke Vpon the third stands the stately Mosche and most richly built Sepulcher of Mahomet the second with an Hospitall built by the same Emperour where all Turkish Pilgrimes haue their lodging and diet freely for three daies and it hath one hundred and fifty chambers built for the poore of the City and the yeerely rents thereof are valued at two hundred thousand zechines yea the Court or Seraglio of the Great Turke paies each day an hundred Aspers to this Hospitall The Sepulcher of Selimus takes vp the fourth hill and the sepulcher of Baiazet the fifth hill Betweene the fifth and the sixth hill is the old Pallace of the Great Turke which the Italiatis call Seraglio vecehio where the Concubines of the deceased Emperour and the present Emperours sisters and a great number of his concubinet for the fairest and dearest to him are taken to liue in his Court are kept by Ennuches within this old Seraglio which is of great circuit containing many houses and gardens compassed within one wall Vpon the sixth hill stands the foresaid wonderfull Mosche and Sepulcher of Solyman noted with the letter R Lastly the seuenth hill containes the chiefe Pallace of the Great Turke and the Church Saint Sophia now made a Mosche noted with the Letters O. Q. The tops of the Sepulchers and Mosches being of a round forme and couered with brasse and the spacious gardens of Cypresse and Firre trees make shew of more beauty and magnificence to the beholder from any high place or without the wals then in deed the City hath The Sepulchers are no doubt very stately built hauing vpon the top one two or more round globes couered with leade or brasse On the inside they seeme like lightsome Chappels with many windowes and they being built in a round forme the dead Emperour is laied in the middest or center of the Sepulcher in a chest or coffin raised some three foot from the ground hauing the Tulbent which hee wore vpon his head in his life time laied vpon his Tombe being see forth with the Iewels he most esteemed which Tulbent is made of some twenty or more yards of pure and fine white linnen foulded in many foulds in the forme of a halfe globe Next the Emperour lies the Sultana or Empresse in her Coffin so they call his Concubine Mother of his Heire and Successour prouided alwaies that shee haue had a letter of dowry by which shee is made his wife for otherwise shee is not buried with him And round about the Emperour and Empresse in Coffins lower then theirs lie the bodies of his male children which according to their manner are strangled by his Successour assoone as he was dead and vpon their Coffins likewise their Tulbents are laied seuerally These children are laied in little Coffins of Cypresle and this middle part wherein the dead bodies lie is compassed with a grace so as betweene the bodies and the windowes there is a gallery round about which is spred with Turkey carpets and vpon them the Priests that keepe the Sepulcher doe lie by night and sit crosse legged by day neither is the roome at any time without some of these Keepers so as the Emperours are attended euen after death The buildings of the City haue no magnificence being partly of a matter like bricke but white and as it seemes vnhardned by fire partly of timber and clay excepting some few pallaces which are of free stone but nothing so stately built as might be expected from the pride and riches of the great Turkes chiefe seruants And these houses as those of the adiacent territories of Europe are built only 2 stories high with a low roofe without any windowes after the manner of Italy whereas the houses of Asia haue a plaine and plaistered roofe to walke vpon especially in Asia the greater The streetes of this Citie ar narrow and shadowed with pentises of wood and vpon both sides the way is raised some foot high but of little breadth and paued for men and women to passe the middest of the street being left low and vnpaued and no broader then for the passage of Asses or beasts loaded In many places of the streetes lye carcases yea sometimes the bodies of dead men euen till they be putrified and I thinke this vncleanlinesse of the Turks who otherwise place Religion in washing their bodies and keeping their apparrell especially their Tulbent pure and cleane is the chiefe cause that this Citie though most pleasantly seated yet aboue all the Cities of the world is continually more or lesse infected with the plague They say that Iob famous for his pietie and patience is buried in this Citie but I did not see his monument and thinke it probable that the same and all like Christian monuments were defaced by the Turkes when they tooke the Citie The worthie English Ambassadour Master Edward Barton most curteously entertained me with lodging and dyet so long as I staied in this Citie so as for them I spent not one Asper but I passe ouer the due praises which I owe to the memory of this worthy Gentleman being hereafter to speake more of him I will onely adde that I attended him once to the great Turkes Court and when I had nothing satisfied my curiositie in viewing the Citie by occasions casually happening that hee commaunded a Ianizare to guide mee round about the same till I had taken full view thereof And with this guide the first day I viewed the foresaid monuments within the walles and the second day compassed the Citie without the walles beginning at the passage ouer the water called Tapano and noted with the letter K and so passing by water in a boat vulgarly called Pyrame and hired for fortie aspers to the Castle of the seuen Towers noted with the letter T then passing by land to the Pallace of Constantine noted with the letter V. And by the way as we passed by land an old woman meeting vs and taking me for a Captine to be sold demaunded my price of the Ianizare who for mirth entertained her offer to buy me and another Gentleman seruant to the Ambassadour whom hee had sent to beare me company but because I was very slender and leane after my long sicknes he could not induce her to giue more then one hundred aspers for me though she offered foure hundred aspers for the other Gentleman in
place where they fable that Coryneus wrastled with Gogmagog and in this Towne was borne Sir Francis Drake Knight the cheefe glory of our Age for Nauigation who for two yeeres space did with continual victories as it were besiege the Gulfe of Mexico and in the yeere 15-- entring the straight of Magellan compassed the World in two yeeres and tenne moneths with many changes and hazards of Fortune The Towne Dortmouth is much frequented with Merchants and strong shippes for the commodity of the Hauen fortified with two Castles The City Excester called Isen by Ptolomy and of olde called Monketon of the Monkes is the cheefe City of the County and the seate of the Bishop 3 Dorsetshire was of old inhabited by the Durotriges The Towne Weymouth hath a Castle built by Henry the eighth to fortifie the Hauen Dorchester is the cheefe towne of the County but neither great nor faire 4 Sommersetshire was of old inhabited by the Netherlanders and is a large and rich County happy in the fruitfull soyle rich Pastures multitude of Inhabitants and commodity of Hauens The chiefe Towne Bridgewater hath the name of the Bridge and the water In the Iland Auallon so called in the Britans tongue of the Apples which the Latins cals Glasconia flourished the Monastery Glastenbury of great antiquity deriued from Ioseph of Arimathta Dunstan casting out the ancient Monkes brought thither the Benedictines of a later institution and himselfe was the first Abbot ouer a great multitude of Monkes indowed with Kingly reuenewes In the Church yard of this Monastery they say that the great worthy of the Britans Prince Arthur hath his Sepulcher The Episcopall little City called Wells of the Wells or Fountaines hath a stately Bishops Pallace The City Bathe is famous for the medicinall Baths whereof three Fountaines spring in the very City which are wholsome for bodies nummed with ill humours but are shut vp certaine howers of the day that no man should enter them till by their sluces they be purged of all filth The Bishop of Welles buying this City of Henry the first remoued his Episcopall seate thither yet still keeping the old name of Bishop of Welles and there built a new Cathedrall Church The City Bristowe is compassed with a double wall and hath so faire buildings as well publike as priuate houses as next to London and Yorke it is preferred to all other Cities of England 5 Wilshire was also inhabited by the Belgae or Netherlanders and lies all within land rich in all parts with pastures and corne Malmesbury is a faire Towne famous for the woollen clothes The Towne Wilton of old the cheefe of this County is now a little Village beautified with the stately Pallace of the Earles of Penbroke The City of Salisbury is made pleasant with waters running through the streetes and is beautified with a stately Cathedrall Church and the Colledge of the Deane and Prebends hauing rich Inhabitants in so pleasant a seate yet no way more famous then by hauing Iohn Iewell a late worthy Bishop borne there Some sixe miles from Salisbury is a place in the fields where huge stones are erected whereof some are eight and twenty foote high and seuen broade standing in three rowes after the forme of a crowne vppon which other stones are so laied acrosse as it seemes a worke hanging in the Ayre whereupon it is called Stoneheng vulgarly and is reputed among Miracles as placed there by Merlin there being scarce any stone for ordinary building in the Territory adioyning 6 Hamshire of old was inhabited within Land by the Belgae or Netherlanders and vppon the Sea coast by the Regni William the Norman Conquerour made here a Forrest for Deare destroying Towns and holy buildings for some thirty miles compasse which ground now well inhabited yet seruing for the same vse we call New-Forest Southampton a faire little City lies vpon the Sea Wintchester of old called Venta of the Belgae was a famous City in the time of the Romans and in these daies it is well inhabited watered with a pleasant Brooke and pleasantly seated and hath an olde Castle wherein there hanges against the wall a Table of a round forme vulgarly called Prince Arthurs round Table but Gamden thinkes it to haue been made long after his time It hath a Cathedrall Church and large Bishops Pallace and a famous Colledge founded for training vp young Schollers in learning whence many learned men haue been first sent to the Vniuersity and so into the Church and Commonwealth In the Towne or Port of Portsmouth lies a Garrison of souldiers to defend those parts from the incursions of the French by Sea 7 Barkshire was of old inhabited by the Atrebatij Newbery a famous Towne inriched by wollen clothes had his beginning of the ancient Towne Spina Windsore is famous by the Kings Castle neither can a Kings seate bee in a more pleasant situation which draweth the Kings often to retire thither and Edward the third kept at one time Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland captiues in this Castle The same Edward the third built here a stately Church and dedicated it to the blessed Virgin Mary and to S. George the Capadocian and first instituted the order of Knights called of the Garter as an happy omen of victory in warre happily succeeding who weare vnder the left knee a watchet Garter buckled hauing this mot in the French tongue grauen in letters of gold Hony soit qui mal'y pense and the ceremonies of this order hee instituted to be kept in this Church 8 The County of Surry was of old inhabited by the Regni Otelands is beautified with the Kings very faire and pleasant house as Richmond is with the Kings stately Pallace 9 The County of Sussex of old inhabited by the Regni hath the faire City Chichesler and the Hauen Rhie knowne by being the most frequented passage into France 10 The County of Kent is rich in medows Pastures pleasant Groues and wonderfully aboundeth with Apples and Cherries It hath most frequent Townes and safe Harbours for ships and some vaines of Iron William the Norman Conquerour after the manner of the Romans instituted a Warden of the fiue Ports Hastings Douer Hith Rumney and Sandwiche to which Winchelsey and Rie the chiefe Hauens and other Townes are ioyned as members which haue great priuiledges because they are tied to serue in the warres and the Warden of them is alwaies one of the great Lords who within his iurisdiction hath in most things the authority of Admirall and other rights Detford Towne is well knowne where the Kings ships are built and repaired and there is a notable Armory or storehouse for the Kings Nauy Not farre from thence vpon the shore lie the broken ribs of the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round about the World reserued for a monument of that great action Greenewich is beautified with the Kings Pallace Eltham another house of the Kings is not farre distant The Towne
by nature and diligent Art and hath a very faire Hauen Vpon the bay which Ptolomy names AEstuarium Metaris vulgarly called the Washes lieth the large Towne of Linne famous for the safety of the Hauen most easie to be entred for the concourse of Merchants and the faire buildings 20 Cambridgeshire had of old the same Inhabitants and consists all of open corne fields excepting some places yeelding Saffron and it giues excellent Barly of which steeped till it spring againe they make great quantity of Mault to brew Beere in such quantity as the Beere is much exported euen into forraigne parts and there highly esteemed Cambridge is a famous Vniuersity seated vpon the Riuer Grant by others called Came of which and the Bridge ouer the same it is called Cambridge The Northerne part of this County consists of Ilands greene and pleasant in Summer but all couered with water in the Winter whereof the cheefe called Ely giues the name to all the rest called as if they were but one Iland the I le of Ely the cheefe Towne whereof called also Ely is famous for being the seate of a Bishop 21 Hunting donshire had of old the same Inhabitants the cheefe Towne whereof is Huntingdon 22 Northamptonshire was of old inhabited by the Coritani and is a Countrey most painefully tilled and full of Inhabitants Northampton is the cheefe City large and walled Peterborow is the seate of a Bishop Neere Stamford is the stately Pallace Burleigh built by William the first Lord Burleigh 23 Leycestershire had of old the same Inhabitants a Champion Country and fruitfull in bearing Corne. In Lutterworth a little Towne of Trade Iohn Wickliffe was Pastor or Minister Leicester the cheefe City hath more antiquitie then beauty 24 Rutlandshire had of old the same Inhabitants and is the least County of England and had the name of the red Earth The Towne of Vppingham deserues no other mention then that it is the cheefe Towne of the County 25 Linconshire had of old the same inhabitants and is a very large County rich in Corne and Pastures and abounding with Fowle and Fish and all things necessary for foode The great Washes of Holland when the Sea flowes are couered with water but when it ebbes the ground is discouered to be passed but not without danger and with a good guide Lincolne the chief City was of old one of the most populous Cities of England and one that had greatest trade and hath a sumptuous Cathedral Church 26 Nottinghamslire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe City whereof is Nottingham pleasantly seated In the Westerne part is the Wood called Shirewood feeding infinit numbers of Fallow and Red Deare whether the Kings of old were wont to retire for hunting 27 Darbyshire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe towne whereof is Darby faire and well inhabited the Ayle whereof is for goodnesse prouerbially preferred before that kind of drinke in any other Towne The Westerne part hath high Mountaines called Peake yeelding Leade which they make into Sowes and stibium in his proper vaines is there found Likewise there Mil-stones are out out and there is the old Castle called the Castle in the Peake neare which is a great hole or caue in the Mountaine gaping wide and hauing many inward caues and this hole with reueuerence be it spoken is vulgarly called The Diuels ars at Peuke of which many fables are told and the place is accounted among the miracles of England The like fables are told of 〈◊〉 hole not farre distant very steepe and deepe 28 Warwickshire was of old inhabited by the Cornauij wherein is Couentry a large faire and walled Citie so called of the Couent of Monkes and at this day it is the fairest City within-land wherof the chiefe trade of old was making round caps of wooll but the same being now very little vsed the trade is decaied Warwick is the chiefe City of the County and neare the same vpon the hill Blacklow Peter of Gaueston was beheaded by the Lords of the Kingdome Not farre thence is a transparant and pleasant but little Wood and there be cleare Fountaines which place yeelds sweete solitude for the Muses and there they report that the famous worthy Guy of Warwick after many aduentures atchieued did first liue an Heremites life and was after death buried 29 Worcestershire had of old the same inhabitants which after in the time of Beda were called Wiccij either of wic signifying a corner or bay or of wyches signifying 〈◊〉 in the Saxons tongue And there are excellent salt-pits or Brookes and new fountaines of salt are daily found The Country is happy in the healthfull ayre tertility of soile and sweete Riuers but especially yeeldeth abundance of Peares of which they make Perry a counterfeit wine but cold and flatuous as all those kinds of drinke are Worcester the chiefe City of the County was built by the Romans and is compassed with a wall and hath the seate of a Bishop and a faire Cathedrall Church with the Monuments of Iohn King of England and Arthur Prince of Wales It is also beautified with many inhabitants rich trade of wollen cloth faire buildings and the number of Churches 30 Staffordshire had of old the same inhabitants and towards the South it hath pit-coales and some vaines of Iron but the greatest quantitie and best kind of pit-coales is in Nottinghamshire Stone is a Towne of Traffike Lichfeild is a large and faire City so called as the field of dead bodies and it is beautified with the seate of a Bishop his Pallace and the house of the Prebends My selfe passing that way did reade these Epitaphes in the Cathedrall Church The first of a Deane Sis testis Christe quod non iacet hic lapis iste Corpus vt ornetur sed spirittus vt memoretur O Christ me witnesse beare that this stone lies not here To grace the vile body but the soules memorie And another excellent Epitaph but superstitious and I know not whose Quisquis eris qui transieris sta perlege plora Sum quod eris fuer amque quod es pro me precor ora Who ere thou be that passest by stand reade and houle Such shalt thou be I was like thee pray for my soule Yet I remember not well whether these were two Epitaphes or onely one and for one man 31 Shropshire had of old the same inhabitants and was a fortified and manned frontyer against the Welsh then diuided from the English and their enemies and thereupon was named the Marches Ludlow is a Towne of more beauty then antiquity beautified with the Pallace of the King or rather of the Prince of Wales and there is a Counsell or Court of Iustice erected for Wales the borders not vnlike to the French Parliaments and instituted by Henry the eight It consists of the President of Wales there residing of a Secretary an Atturney a Solicitor and foure Iustices of the Counties of Wales and as many Counsellers as
the King shall please to appoint In Hackstow Forrest at the hill Stiperstons are great heapes of stones which the vulgar sort dreame to haue been the diuels bridge Wrockceter of old the chiefe Citie burt by the Romans is now a pretty village and from the decay therof grew the well knowne Citie Shrewesburie now the chiefe Citie fortified by art and nature rich by making wollen cloth and trading with the neighbouring Welchmen where Henry Percy the younger with his forces was ouerthrowne by Henrie the fourth 32 Cheshire is a great County of Gentlemen no other County hauing so many Knights houses Westchester is a faire Citie where the twentieth Legion called victrix lay in Garison in the time of Vespasian the Roman Emperor Most white Salt is made at Nantwich and lesse white made at Middlewich and Norwich It is rich in Pastures and sends great quantitie of cheeses to London I know that Worcester cheeses are most esteemed but there is not such quantitie to transport them I know that Suffolke and the Fennes of Essex yeeld huge cheeses in great number to bee exported but they are not so pleasing to the taste as these I know that in all the Counties some quantity of very good cheeses is made for priuate mens vses but not in proportion to bee exported Whereas Cheshire yeelds great quantity of very good cheeses comparable to those of Holland seruing the greatest part of London therewith and exporting the same into other parts When the heyres males of this County faced Henry the third added this large patrimony to the Crowne so as the Kings eldest sonne should be Earle of Cheshire And Richard the second of a County made it a Principality and himselfe was called Prince of Cheshire but Henry the fourth reduced it againe to a Countie Palatine and at this day it hath Palatine iurisdiction administred by a Chamberlaine a speciall Iudge two Exchequer Barons three Serieants at Law a Sheriffe an Atturney an Escheator c. 33 Herefordshire was of old inhabited by the Silures and it so much abeundeth with all things necessarie for the life of man as it is not content in that respect to haue the second place among all the Counties of England Hereford is the chiefe Citie thereof Lemster iustly boasteth of the Sheepes wooll feeding in those grounds with which no part of Europe can compare excepting Apulia and Tarentum It yeelds excellent Fiax and so good Wheate as the bread of Lemster and drinke of Weabley a neighbour Towne are prouerbially praised before all others 34 Radnoxshire had of old the same inhabitants and is the first County of Wales whereof Radnox is the chiefe Towne 35 Brechnocshire the second County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe Towne seated in the middest thereof where Henry the eight instituted a Collegiate Church 36 Monmouthshire had of old the same inhabitants and is so called of the chiefe Towne no way so glorious as in that Henry the fifth Conquerer of France was borne there It hath also another faire Towne called Chepstow 37 Glamorganshire the fourth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and the chiefe Citie Caerdiffe hath a commodious Hauen 38 Caermardenshire the fifth County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Dimetae and is fruitefull in Corne abounds in Sheepe and in some places yeelds Pit-coale It hath the name of the chiefe Citie where Merlin was borne begotten by an Incubus Deuill whom the common people tooke for a most famous Prophet 39 Pembrookeshire the sixth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants Here a long neck of land makes an Hauen called Milford hauen then which Europe hath not a more noble Hauen or more safe or more large with many creekes and safe roades made more famous by the landing of H. the seuenth Pembrook is the chiefe Towne of the County The Flemming hauing their Townes drowned by the Sea had a Territorie of this County giuen them to inhabit by Henry the first before Wales was subdued and they euer remained most faithfull to the Kings of England 40 Kardiganshire the seuenth County of Wales and had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe City 41 Montgomeryshire the eight County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Ordouices and hath the name of the chiefe Towne 42 Mertonethshire the ninth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants where vpon the mountaines great slockes of sheepefeede without any danger of the wolfe for the wolues were destroied through all England when Edgar King of England imposed the yeerely tribute of three hundreth wolues vpon 〈◊〉 Prince of Wales The little and poore towne Bala is the eheefe of this Mountenous people 43 Caernaruonshire the tenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and was called Snodenforest before Wales was reduced into Counties so called of the mountaines whose tops are alwaies white with snow deseruing to be named the Alps of Britany and it is certaine that there be lakes and standing waters vpon the tops of those Mountaines The walled City Caernaruon checfe of the County hath a most faire Castle built by Edward the first wherein his sonne Edward the second was borne and named thereof Bangor that is faire Chancell is the seate of a Bishop Aberconway deserues the name of a strong and faire little City rather then of a Towne saue that it is not full of Inhabitants 44 Denbighshire the eleuenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and hath the name of the cheefe Towne well inhabited The little Village Momglath had the name of the mines of lead which that pleasant territory yeelds Not far thence is the Towne Wrexham bewtified with a most saire Tower called the Holy Tower and commended for the musicali Organes in the Church 45 The little County Flintshire the twelfth of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants the fields whereof the first yeere after they haue line fallow yeeld more then twenty measures for one in some places of Barly in other places of Wheate and generally of Rie and after for foure or fiue yeeres yeeld Oates Holiwell named of the sacred Fountaine is a little Towne where is the Fountaine of Winefrede a Christian Virgin who being defloured by force there was killed by the Tyrant and this Fountaine is farre and greatly famous for the Mosse there growing of a most pleasant smell A faire Chappell of Free stone is built vpon the very Fountaine and a little streame runnes out of it among stones vpon which a certaine bloody humour growes The Castle Flint gaue the name to the County 46 I will omit Anglesey the thirteenth County of Wales because it is to be described among the Ilands 47 Yorkeshire is the farre largest County of all England and was of old inhabited by the Brigantes In the Forrest called Hatfield Chase are great Heards of red Deare and Harts The Townes of Sheffeld and
to that of fifteene and a halfe and the Latitude extends also foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty foure degrees to that of fifty eight degrees In the Geographicall description I will follow Camden as formerly This famous Iland in the Virginian Sea is by olde Writers called Ierna Inuerna and Iris by the old Inhabitants Eryn by the old Britans Yuerdhen by the English at this day Ireland and by the Irish Bardes at this day Banno in which sence of the Irish word Auicen cals it the holy Iland besides Plutarch of old called it Ogigia and after him Isidore named it Scotia This Ireland according to the Inhabitants is deuided into two parts the wild Irish and the English Irish liuing in the English Pale but of the old Kingdomes fiue in number it is deuided into fiue parts 1 The fast is by the Irish called Mowne by the English Mounster and is subdeuided into sixe Counties of Kerry of Limricke of Corcke of Tipperary of the Holy Crosse and of Waterford to which the seuenth County of Desmond is now added The Gangaui a Scithean people comming into Spaine and from thence into Ireland inhabited the County of Kerry full of woody mountaines in which the Earles of Desmond had the dignity of Palatines hauing their House in Trailes a little Towne now almost vninhabited Not farre thence lies Saint Mary Wic vulgarly called Smerwicke where the Lord Arthur Gray being Lord Deputy happily ouerthrew the aiding troopes sent to the Earle of Desmond from the Pope and the King of Spaine On the South side of Kerry lies the County of Desmond of old inhabited by three kinds of people the Lucens being Spaniards the Velabri so called of their seate vpon the Sea waters or Marshes and the Iberns called the vpper Irish inhabiting about Beerehauen Baltimore two Hauens well known by the plentiful fishing of Herrings and the late inuasion of the Spaniards in the yeere 1601. Next to these is the County of Mec Carti More of Irish race whom as enemy to the Fitz-geralds Queene Elizabeth made Earle of Glencar in the yeere 1556. For of the Fitz-Geralds of the Family of the Earles of Kildare the Earles of Desmond descended who being by birth English and created Earles by King Edward the third became hatefull Rebels in our time The third County hath the name of the City Corke consisting almost all of one long streete but well knowne and frequented which is so compassed with rebellious neighbours as they of old not daring to marry their Daughters to them the custome grew and continues to this day that by mutuall marriages one with another all the Citizens are of kinne in some degree of Affinity Not farre thence is Yoghall hauing a safe Hauen neere which the Vicounts of Barry of English race are seated In the fourth County of Tipperary nothing is memorable but that it is a Palatinate The little Towne Holy-Cresse in the County of the same name hath many great priuiledges The sixth County hath the name of the City Limerike the seate of a Bishop wherein is a strong Castle built by King Iohn Not farre thence is Awue the seate of a Bishop and the lower Ossery giuing the title of an Earle to the Butlers and the Towne Thurles giuing them also the title of Vicount And there is Cassiles now a poore City but the seate of an Archbishoppe The seuenth County hath the name of the City Watersord which the Irish call Porthlargi of the commodious Hauen a rich and well inhabited City esteemed the second to Dublyn And because the Inhabitants long faithfully helped the English in subduing Ireland our Kings gaue them excessiue priuiledges but they rashly failing in their obedience at King Iames his comming to the Crowne could not in long time obtaine the confirmation of their old Charter 2 Lemster the second part of Ireland is fertile and yeelds plenty of Corne and hath a most temperate mild Aire being deuided into ten Counties of Catterlogh Kilkenny Wexford Dublyn Kildare the Kings County the Queenes County the Counties of Longford of Fernes and of Wickle The Cariondi of old inhabited Caterlogh or Carloo County and they also inhabited great part of Kilkenny of vpper Ossery and of Ormond which haue nothing memorable but the Earles of Ormond of the great Family of the Butlers inferiour to no Earle in Ireland not to speake of Fitz pairic Baron of vpper Ossery It is redicnious which some Irish who will be beleeued as men of credit report of Men in these parts yeerely turned into Wolues except the aboundance of melancholy humour transports them to imagine that they are so transformed Kilkenny giuing name to the second County is a pleasant Towne the chiefe of the Townes within Land memorable for the ciuility of the Inhabitants for the Husbandmens labour and the pleasant Orchards I passe ouer the walled Towne Thomastowne and the ancient City Rheban now a poore Village with a Castle yet of old giuing the title of Barronet I passe ouer the Village and strong Castle of Leighlin with the Countrey adioyning vsurped by the Sept of the Cauanaghs now surnamed Omores Also I omit Kosse of old a large City at this day of no moment The third County of Wexford called by the Irish County Reogh was of old inhabited by the Menappij where at the Towne called Banna the English made their first discent into Ireland and vpon that Coast are very dangerous flats in the Sea which they vulgarly call Grounds The City Weshford Weisford or Wexford is the cheefe of the County not great but deseruing praise for their faithfulnesse towards the English and frequently inhabited by Men of English race The Cauci a Seabordering Nation of Germany and the Menappij aforesaid of old inhabited the territories now possessed by the Omores and Ohirns Also they inhabited the fourth County of Kildare a fruitfull soyle hauing the cheese Towne of the same name greatlie honoured in the infancie of the Church by Saint Briget King Edward the second created the Giralds Earles of Kildare The Eblani of old inhabited the territory of Dublin the fifth County hauing a fertile soyle and rich pastures but wanting wood so as they burne Turffe or Seacoale brought out of England The City Dublyn called Diuelin by the English and Balacleigh as seated vpon hurdles by the Irish is the cheefe City of the Kingdome and seate of Iustice fairely built frequently inhabited and adorned with a strong Castle fifteene Churches an Episcopall seate and a faire Colledge an happy foundation of an Vniuersity laid in our Age and indowed with many priuiledges but the Hauen is barred and made lesse commodious by those hils of sands The adioyning Promontory Hoth-head giues the title of a Barron to the Family of Saint Laurence And towards the North lies Fengall a little Territory as it were the Garner of the Kingdome which is enuironed by the Sea and great Riuers and this situation hath defended it from the incursion of Rebels in former
foure miles to Bentzon hauing hils on my right hand toward the East planted with Vines and fields set with roots and vpon my left hand towards the West a faire and fruitfull plaine and here I paid seuen Batzen for my supper The second day in the morning I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgraue of Hessen to Arhelygen through wooddy mountaines planted with some Vines and a plaine for one mile sandy but the rest good pasture We passed by Dormstat where the said Landgraue holds his Court and there each man paid sixe Fenning tribute At Arheligen I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner In the afternoone I passed some three miles to Franckfort through a sandy plaine and a wood of Oakes and Beeches and by the way they shewed vs a strange leape of a Stagge which being chased did leape ouer a cart if you may beleeue them loaded with hey Franckfort is a free City of the Empire famous for the Electors meeting there to choose the Emperour and for two yeerely Faires as also for many Parliaments of the Empire held there and it is called Franckfort vpon the Maene to distinguish it from another City of the same name built vpon the Brooke Odera and named thereof For the Riuer Maene running from the East to the West diuideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons House vulgarly Sachsen-hausse and betweene them is a bridge of stone vpon foure narrow Arches Both the Cities are gouerned by the same Senate and Law and haue the fame name either of Francus rebuilding it or of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French The City is compassed strongly with a double wall and vpon the East side is the gate Heilegthore where is the Iewes street who are permiteed to dwell in this famous Mart-towne and sucke the blood of Christians by extortion There is another gate called Freydigthore On the North side of the City is the gate Brickenport and a large place for an Horse Faire On the West side is the gate of strangers vulgarly Welsh-thore so called because the French enter that way it is very strong and without the gate there is a very pleasant walke vpon the banke of Maene among Vineyards and Meadowes with sweet Groues On the South side the Maene runneth by diuiding as I said the new City from the old In the new or lesse City called the Saxons-house is a house of old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights which by old priuiledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts and manslaiers so they be not wilful and malicious murtherers but they enioy this priuiledge onely for foureteene daies so as when the time is neere out or vpon any opportunity during the time they vse to steale out and returning after an houre begin a new to reckon againe the foureteene daies A little before my comming thither a certaine bankrupt of Colen entered the same for a debt of twenty thousand Guldens On this side some ground without the wals belongs to the City but on other sides it hath almost no Land without the wals The City is of a round forme seated in a large plaine the streetes are narrow and the houses built of timber and clay the foundations of some being of stone In the Innes they aske seuen or eight batzen a meale but Merchants and many strangers vse to hire a chamber and buy their meat of the Cookes From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a Coach for fifty Dollers and besides were to pay for the coach-mans diet for here first the coach-man conditioned to be free from paying his diet vulgarly Maulfrey that is free for the mouth whereas in other parts our coach-men paid for themselues Alwaies vnderstand that at the times of the faires Coaches are set dearer then any time els The first day after breakfast wee went three miles to Freideburge through corne fields set with cabages and rootes and by the way we passed a Village belonging to the Count of Hanaw Freideburge is a free City of the Empire and the buildings are of timber and clay here each man paid seuen batzen for his supper and for his part of the coach-mans supper The second day in the morning we went three miles to Geysen through fruitfull hils of corne Phillip Landgraue of Hessen left three sonnes William of Cassiles whom Maurice his sonne succeeded and was now liuing and Lodwicke of Marpurg and George of Dormstat This territory belonged to the Landgraue Lodwicke for all the brothers in Germany haue the same stile of honour and he was also at that time Lord of this City Geysell which is fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the building is base of timber and clay and for the most of meere dirt These verses were written vpon the gate of the City Captus erat Princeps non marte sed Arte Philippus Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus Nominis hoc patrij Lodouicus amore refecit Anno bis septem lustra sequente none Principe dignus honos patrias surcire ruinas A quibus Hassiacos Cbriste tuere polos Prince Phillip captiu'de not by warre but Art This worke of strength was then demolished In Countries loue Prince Lodwicke for his part Rebuilt it seuenty nine yeeres finished Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land Here I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner and my part for the Coach-man In the afternoone we went three miles through high stony mountaines and woods of oakes to Kirnham belonging to the Landgraue Lodwick whose Court at Marpurg lies a mile from thence All of vs at supper drunke sixe measures of wine besides beere and from henceforth wee paid seuerally for meat and drinke and at this time each of vs paid ten Weissenfenning for both together The third day we passed three miles to Drest through high mountaines with woods of Oake and many fruitfull valleies of corne and each man paid with his portion for the Coach-man foure Weissenfenning for meat and as much for wine This territory belongs to Landgraue Maurice of Cassiles After dinner we passed three miles to Fester through high mountaines full of oake woods and entered the City seated vpon a mountaine by a bridge of stone vpon which side great store of water fals from the mountaines the houses were of timber and clay each one for the most part hauing a dunghill at the doore more like a poore Village then a City but such are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen the houses of Villages being of meere dirt and thatched Here each man paid for his meat and old wine and his part for the Coach-man an Orts Doller or fourth part of a Doller The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles a City where the Landgraue Maurice holds his Court all our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne The City is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the houses are basely
built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower