of Christ was pierc'd the Figure whereof I caus'd to be drawn upon the Place The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration saying that it was brought thither by St. Matthew Five Leagues from Erivan towards the South-East begins the Mountain Ararat which will be always famous for being the resting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a League from that Mountain where the Plain begins to grow level stands a Church upon a little Hillock close by which are several Pits like Wells They report that it was into one of these Wells that Cerda an Armenian King caus'd St. Gregory to be thrown because he would not Worship his false Gods Between this Church and Erivan are to be seen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate the Seat of the Kings of Armenia which demonstrate that it has been a great City besides there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace Erivan lyes in 64 Degrees 20 Minutes of Longitude 41 Degrees 15 Minutes of Latitude in a most plentiful Country of all things necessary for Humane Life but especially abounding in good Wine It is one of the best Provinces of all Persia and yields the King a very large Revenue as well by reason of the goodness of the Soil as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans The yearly Revenue of the Governour only otherwise call'd the Kan of Erivan amounts to above 20000 Tomans which make 840000 Livres This City lying upon the Frontiers of both Empires has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Persians several times By which means the old City being ruin'd they have built a new one 800 Paces on this side upon a Rock at the foot whereof upon the West-side runs a rapid Stream it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks You cross it over a fair Bridge of three Arches in which are built little Chambers where the Kan retires in the heat of the day It is full of Fish especially Trouts which nevertheless are dear enough This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni about 25 Leagues from Erivan toward the North and falls into the Aras that runs not above three Leagues off to the South Though this City be fortified to the West by the River yet it is never the stronger by reason of the Hills on the other side which command it and in regard it is built upon a Rock the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep In some places the City is secur'd with a double Wall with several Towers but the Walls being only of Earth as are most of the Houses the Rain does more mischief than the Cannon would do That part of Erivan to the North-West is a kind of Suburb but far better inhabited than the City for there live all the Merchants and Artificers together with the Christian Armenians who have four Churches there with a Monastery And of late years they have built also a very fair Inn in the same Quarter In the City there only lives the Kan with the Military Officers and Souldiers the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River The Governour is a Person of great Power and has always sufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers The Summer being very hot at Erivan he lyes in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat When a Caravan arrives he is forc'd to give the King advice thereof and if any Ambassador come thither he is bound to maintain him at his own Expence and to cause him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governour who is oblig'd to do the same So that Ambassadors are not bound to be at any Expences in the Territories of the King of Persia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sun-burnt Countries toward Chaldea come twenty thousand together to seek out good Pasturage for their Cattel and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country I cannot compare this Mountainous Tract whether for its Valleys and Rivers or for the nature of the Soil to any Part that I have seen better than to that portion of Switzerland which is call'd the Country of Vaux and there is a Tradition among the Natives That certain People that inhabited between the Alpes and Mount Jura and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army having serv'd him in his Conquests seated themselves in this part of Armenia which they found so like their own Country From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the most part Christians Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia 't is no wonder to meet with fifty Armenians for one Mahometan There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan which is their native Country but they are ill us'd by the Governours who being far distant from the Court do what they please This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers resort But neither in Erivan nor in any other part of Persia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Custom-Houses as in Turkie They only pay certain Duties toward securing the Highways which Duties they call Raderies and those that gather them Raders The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Persia are civil to Strangers especially to those that they like or that shew them any thing of Curiosity The first time that I went into Persia I took a young Watch-maker with me and coming to Erivan I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Persia and the Kan understanding what Trade the Young Man was of told us he was the first Watch-maker that ever had been in Persia Thereupon he brought the Young Man a Watch to mend and that he might have the pleasure of seeing him work he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his own and made us drink with him every day for he was a true Toper and compell'd us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight in a place which he had made on purpose in his Garden to take off his Glasses This was he that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat went along with him to Constantinople and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink Amurat left a Garrison of 22000 Men in the City but Sha-Sefi the Persian King begirt it presently with a strong Army and planting himself securely under one of the Hills that command the City he batter'd it incessantly with eight Pieces of Cannon the fourth day he made a Breach and though he had the repute of a Coward he was the first at the Assault and took the City and because they would not yield at his Summons he put all the Garrison to the Sword For which Amurat was quit with Sha-Sefi afterwards though not in so noble a way for entring a Victor into Bagdat he put all the Persians
great Town Magar Gazer and Gorno At this last place Euphrates and Tigris meet together where are also three Castles to be seen one upon the Point where the two Rivers meet which is the strongest and where the Son of the Prince of Balsara then commanded the second upon Chaldea side and the third upon Arabia side Though the Customs be there exactly demanded and paid yet they never search any person The Tides come up to that place so that having but fifteen Leagues to Balsara we got thither in sev'n hours having both Wind and Tide All the Country between Bagdat and Balsara is inter-cut and parted by Dikes like the Low Countries the two Cities lying a hundred and sixty Leagues one from the other It is one of the best countries in the possession of the Grand Signor being stor'd with large Meadows and excellent Pasturage where are bred infinite numbers of Beasts especially Mares and Bufalo's The Female Bufalo's go twelve Months and yield so much milk that there are some which will give two and twenty Pints And there is so large a quantity of Butter made that in some Villages upon the Tigris we saw sometimes five and twenty sometimes twenty Barks lad'n with Butter which the people sell all along the Gulf of Persia as well upon Arabia as Persia side Half the way between Bagdat and Balsara we perceiv'd several Pavilions set up in the Meadows along by the side of the River Upon enquiry we heard that the Tefterdar was come from Constantinople to gather the Grand Signor's duty 's For from Bagdat to Gorno for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female there is to be paid a Piaster and a quarter for every head once a year which is worth yearly to the Grand Signor a hundred and fourscore thousand Piasters Every Mare also pays two Piasters every Sheep ten Sous which if the Country people were not very cunning would be worth fifty thousand Piasters more than it is After this we came to Gorno a Fortress upon the point where the two Rivers meet besides two other small Castles upon each side so that there is no passing without leave Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnish'd with Cannon we saw the Prince of Balsara's Son who was Governour of the Fort. And here it is that the Account of the Customs is taken But though they are very exact in searching the Barks they are very civil for they search no body However lest any Goods should be hid between the Planks of the Ships over which they generally throw Fagots and Canes the Customers bring a great Piercer with which they bore the sides of the Bark quite through for the discovery of conceal'd Goods The Goods are Register'd at Gorno but the Customs are always paid at Balsara according to the accompt giv'n from the Fort. The same day entring into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balsara we met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleasure in a Boat cover'd with Scarlet who took me with him to Balsara Balsara stands upon the side of Arabia deserta two Leagues from the Ruines of a City which was formerly call'd Teredon and anciently stood in the Desert to which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel still to be seen By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City from whence the Arabians fetch away the Bricks and sell them at Balsara The City of Balsara is half a League from Euphrates which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-areb or the River of Araebia The Inhabitants of the City have made a Channel to it about half a League long which bears Vessels of 150 Tun at the end whereof stands a Fort so that no Vessel can get into the Fort without leave The Sea is above fifteen Leagues off but the Tide comes up to the Channel and fills the River other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno The Country is so low that were it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-shoar it would often be in danger of being drown'd The Dam is above a League in length and built all of Free-stone so strong that the fury of the waves can do them no injury though it lie open to a Boystrous Sea It is not above a hundred years since Balsara belong'd to the Arabians of the Desert and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe For those people were contented to eat their own Dates having so great a quantity that they only live upon them 'T is the same thing all along the Gulf on each side for from Balsara to the River Indus for above six hundred Leagues together and all along the Coast of Arabia to Mascaté the poor sort of people know not what it is to eat Rice but live upon Dates and Salt-fish dry'd in the wind The Cows eat no Grass and though they go abroad in the fields they find little or nothing among the bushes which is proper for them to eat But every Morning before they drive them to the Field and when they return home they give them heads of fish and Date-nuts boil'd together The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balsara and yet because the Arabians always hover'd about the Town and made booty of all they could lay their hands on they were forc'd to come to an agreement with them that the Arabs should quietly enjoy all the Desert 'till within a League of the City and that the Turks should remain peaceable Masters of the City where they have a Basha for Governour But this Treaty endur'd not long for in the middle of the City there is a Cittadel call'd Aushel Basha or the Basha's Court which the Turks built so that the Garrison being Turks and the Inhabitants Arabians who could not endure to be curb'd they oft-times quarrell'd with the Turks and came to blows Thereupon the Arabians of the Desert came to the relief of the Citizens and besieg'd the Basha in the Fortress At length because there could be no such agreement made but that one party or other took an occasion presently to break it there was one Basha whose name was Aiud who after many contests and revolts which had almost tyr'd him resolv'd to rid himself of the trouble and sold his Government for forty thousand Piasters to a rich Lord in the Country who presently rais'd a sufficient number of Souldiers to keep the people in awe This great man took upon him the name of Efrasias Basha being the Grandfather of Hussen Basha who was Governour at the time when I pass'd through before This Efrasias threw off the Turkish voak and took upon him the title of Prince of Balsara As for the Basha that sold his Government he no sooner arriv'd at Constantinople but he was strangl'd But after Amurath had taken Bagdat the Prince of Balsara was glad to feed him continually with Presents that chiefly consisted in Horses which are very beautiful in that Country The
shall have it The twenty-sixth of September we departed from Erivan and the ninth of November we came to Tauris taking the ordinary Road. At Erivan two of my Servants the one a Watch-maker the other a Gold-smith dy'd I left them sick there but caus'd them to be buried in the Church-yard belonging to the Armenians One of them dy'd in fifteen days of a Gangrene which eat out his Mouth and Throat being the Disease of the Country Though had the Armenians known that one of them had been a Protestant they would never have allow'd him to have been bury'd in their Church-yard Here observe the exact justice wherewith the Persians preserve the Goods of Strangers For the Civil Judge hearing of the death of the Watch-maker caus'd his Chamber to be seal'd up to the end the Goods might be preserv'd for the kindred of the deceas'd if they came to demand them I return'd to Tauris a twelve-month after and found the Chamber close seal'd up We staid twelve days at Tauris during which time I resolv'd to attend the Kan of Shamaqui a frontler Town of Persia toward the Caspian Sea but I found him not there in regard it was Harvest season at what time he goes to gather the King's and his own Duties Two days journey on this side Shamaqui you pass the Aras and for two days journey you travel through a Country all planted with white Mulberry-Trees the Inhabitants being all Silk-Weavers Before you come to the City you must cross over several Hills But I think I should rather have call'd it a great Town where there was nothing remarkable but a fair Castle which the Kan built himself I speak of the time past For as I return'd from this present Voyage of which I now write when I came to Tauris I understood that there had happen'd such a terrible Earthquake in the Town as had laid all the Houses in a heap none escaping that dismal subversion but only one Watch-maker of Geneva and one more who was a Camel-driver I had several times design'd to return into France through Muscovy but I durst never adventure being certainly inform'd that the Muscovite never permitted any person to go out of Muscovy into Persia nor to come out of Persia into Muscovy So that it was by particular connivence that that favour was granted to the Duke of Holstein's Ambassadors This last time I was resolv'd to have try'd whether I could have open'd a Passage from Persia through Muscovy into France but the Ruine of Shamaqui deterr'd me We departed from Tauris the twenty-second of November from whence to Cashan we met with nothing considerable but only one of the Muscovite Ambassadors upon his return into his own Country with a small Retinue of sixty his Companion dying at Ispahan Upon Sunday the fourteenth of December taking Horse by three of the Clock in the morning the Ice bearing very well we came to Ispahan about noon but in regard it was slippery before day and very plashy after the Sun was up the Journey was both tedious and troublesom CHAP. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris through Diarbequir and Van. THere are two Roads more remaining to be describ'd one through the North part of Turkie the other through the South The first through Diarbequir and Van and so to Tauris the second through Anna and the small Desert leading to Bagdat I will describe the first of these Roads and make a skip at the first leap to Bi r whither I have already led you in the Road from Aleppo From Bi r or Beri you travel all along the River Euphrates to Cachemé From Cachemé you come to Milesara where you pay the Customs of Oursa when you do not pass through the City which amounts to four Piasters for every Horse-load From Milesara you come to the River Arzlan-chaye or the Lion River by reason of the rapidity of the Stream which falls into Euphrates From Arzlan-chaye you go to Seuerak This is a City water'd by a River that also falls into Euphrates It is environ'd with a great Plain to the North the West and South The way which the Horses Mules and Camels keep is cut through the Rock like a Channel two Foot deep where you must also pay half a Piaster for every Horse-load From Seuerak you come to Bogazi where there are two Wells but not a House near and where the Caravan usually lodges From Bogazi you come to Deguirman-Bogazi and from Deguirman-Bogazi to Mirzatapa where there is only an Inn. From Mirzatapa you come to Diarbequir which the Turks call Car-emu Diarbequir is a City situated upon a rising ground on the right side of Tigris which in that place forms a Half-moon the descent from the Walls to the River being very steep It is encompass'd with a double Wall the outward Wall being strengthned with sixty-two Towers which they report were built in Honour of the sixty two Disciples of JESUS CHRIST The City has but three Gates over one of which there is an Inscription in Greek and Latin that makes mention of one Constantine There are in it two or three fair Piazza's and a magnificent Mosquee which was formerly a Christian Church It is surrounded with very decent Charnel-houses near to which the Moullah's Dervi's Book-sellers and Stationers do live together with all those other people that concern the Law About a League from the City there is a Channel cut out of Tigris that brings the Water to the City And in this Water are all the red Marroquins wash'd that are made at Diarbequir surpassing in colour'all others in the East which Manufacture employs a fourth part of the Inhabitants of the City The Soil is very good and yields according to expectation there is excellent Bread and very good Wine nor is there any better Provision to be had in any part of Persia more especially there is a sort of Pigeons which in goodness excel all the several kinds that we have in Europe The City is very well peopl'd and it is thought there are in it above twenty thousand Christians The two thirds are Armenians the rest Nestorians with some few Jacobites There are also some few Capuchins that have no House of their own but are forc'd to lodgâ in an Inn. The Basha of Diarbequir is one of the Viziers of the Empire He has but an inconsiderable Infantry which is not much requisite in that Country the Curds and Arabs which infest that Country being all Horse-men But he is strong in Cavalry being able to bring above twenty thousand Horse into the Field A quarter of an hours riding on this side Diarbequir there is a great Town with a large Inn where the Caravans that go and come from Persia rather choose to lye than at Diarbequir in regard that in the City-Inns they pay three or four Piasters for every Chamber but in the Country-Inns there is nothing demanded At Diarbequir you cross the Tigris which is always fordable unless when the Snow
least prone to Jealousie By the way take notice that the Nogaies though they live almost after the same manner as the Tartars and are under the same Prince yet they perfectly hate them reproaching them for effeminate because they live in Houses and Villages whereas the true Souldier should live in Tents as they do to be ready upon all occasions They that run a-foot as well in these Countries as in Persia when they are weary take Walnuts and bruise them and then rub the Soles of their feet with them before the fire as hot as they can endure it which presently makes them fresh again Having thus done with all the several Roads here follows an Alphabetical Table of the Longitudes and Latitudes of all the Principal Cities of the whole Empire of Persia. THE LONGITUDES and LATITUDES OF THE Principal Cities of PERSIA according as the Geographers of those Countries place them A. A Amoul is in 72 Degrees 20 Min. of Longitude 36 deg of Latitude The Lands about this City abound in Prunes Abeher in 74 deg 20 min. Long. 36 deg 15 min. Lat. 12 Leagues from Casbin a small City but the Land is good about it Absecun in 79 deg 15 min. Long. 37 deg 10 min. Lat. A small City in an excellent Soil Abdehil in 60 deg 20 min. Long. 36 deg 24 min. Lat. The Inhabitants are most Christians and there are many ancient Churches in it It depends upon Sultany Ahwaz 70 deg 15 min. Long. 31 deg 15 min. Lat. A small City half ruin'd in the Province of Belad-Cowreston in a Soil that yields excellent Fruits Arbella 69 deg 50 min. Long. 36 deg 20 min. Lat. A small Champaign City where Provisions are Cheap Ardevil 62 deg 30 min. Long. 38 deg 15 min. Lat. Ardeston 77 deg 10 min. Long. 33 deg 7 min. Lat. Famous for the Copper Vessels that are there made Arion 74 deg 32 min. Long. 32 deg 25 min. Lat. One of the three places where Olives grow in all Persia. Assed-Abad 63 deg 40 min. Long. 34 deg 50 min. Lat. A small City toward Amadan Ava 75 deg 10 min. Long. 34 deg 40 min. Lat. This is a very small place Azadkar or Yevin 82 deg 15 min. Long. 36 deg 32 min. Lat. A City in a great Plain where there are above four hundred Channels under-ground B. Bab El Abab or the Gate of Gates call'd also Demir-capi or the Gate of Iron The Tartars call it Monjou 75 deg 15. min. Long. 45 deg 15 min. Lat. It has been formerly a strong place Badkeist 85 deg 32 min. Long. 35 deg 20 min. Lat. A small but most pleasant City and well built Baste 80 deg 15 min. Long. 29 deg 15 min. Lat. A City in the Province of Kerman where in Summer the Mornings are very cold the Afternoons hot yet the Air very good Bafrouche see Mahmeter Beylagon 63 deg 52 min. Long. 41 deg 20 min. Lat. A City toward the Caspian Sea in a Country abounding in Corn and Fruit. Balk 91 deg 36 min. Long. 38 deg 10 min. Lat. Three days journey from Moultan Bem or Bembe 74 deg 15 min. Long. 28 deg 20 min. Lat. Thought to have been built by Caliph Mouktadar near the great Desert of Bersham Berdoe 63 deg 15 min. Long. 35 deg 30 min. Lat. It lyes surrounded with Pasture-grounds which breed great store of Cattel Berzendé 63 deg 14 min. Long. 37 deg 40 min. Lat. Here are made a sort of course Druggets for ordinary people Beston 79 deg 15 min. Long. 37 deg 20 min. Lat. It lyes in a Country abounding in Corn and Fruits Bimonoheer 74 deg 10 min. Long. 37 deg 30 min. Lat. Here is great Trade for Silk Bost 91 deg 28 min. Long. 32 deg 16 min. Lat. A great City to which belongs the fairest and strongest Castle in all Persia. Bourou-Jerdé 74 deg 30 min. Long. 34 deg 20 min. Lat. Famous for Saffron and for being the native City of many Learned Men. C. Chemkon 63 deg 15 min. Long. 41 deg 15 min. Lat. Chiras 78 deg 15 min. Long. 29 deg 36 min. Lat. Chirvan or Erivan 63 deg 15 min. Long. 38 deg 32 min. Lat. Here all the Silk Caravans rendevous and it is one of the richest Kanats or Governments in Persia. D. Dankon 78 deg 15 min. Long. 30 deg 15 min. Lat. A bad Town in a bad Soil Darabguired 80 deg 15 min. Long. 30 deg 15 min. Lat. In several parts round about this City they meet with Salt of several colours as red and green black and white Here they also make long-neck'd Glass-Bottles which are very curious work nor are they without Sider to fill those Bottles in regard of the great plenty of Apples thereabouts Near to the City there is a Sulphur-Mine and great store of Mummy very much esteem'd in Persia. Debeston 80 deg 15 min. Long. 38 deg 15 min. Lat. This is not properly a City but a great many Villages joyn'd together Deras 79 deg 30 min. Long. 31 deg 32 min. Lat. Devinmaat 62 deg 5 min. Long. 38 deg 40 min. Lat. Din Ver 63 deg 15 min. Long. 35 deg Lat. A City in a fruitful Soil stor'd with Mosquees Doulad 74 deg 15 min. Long. 37 deg 50 min. Lat. The Country about is full of black Mulbery trees Dourak 74 deg 32 min. Long. 32 deg 15 min. Lat. Here they make the loose Cassocks without Sleeves which the Arabians wear Near to this City the Rivers Tigris and Euphrates meeting at a place call'd Hellá make a Marsh where grow the Reeds of which the Eastern people make their Pens E. Elalbetem 87 deg 15 min. Long. 37 deg 15. min. Lat. Eltiib 70 deg 15. min. Lon. 32 deg 15. min. Lat. Enderab 93 deg 15 min. Long. 32 deg 15 min. Lat. Erivan see Chirvan Espharaïen 81 deg 40 min. Long. 37 deg 15 min. Lat. The Country about it abounds in Pears and Apples Estakré 78 deg 30 min. Long. 30 deg 15 min. Lat. The ancient City in the Province of Fars properly Persia in a Soil abounding in Vines and Date-trees Esterabat 75 deg 35 min. Long. 36 deg 50 min. Lat. F. Ferah 18 deg 15 min. Long. 39 deg 15 min. Lat. Built by Abdalla the Son of Taher in the time of Maimon Reshid Caliph of Berni-Abbas Ferouzabad 82 deg 32 min. Long. 30 deg 10 min. Lat. Anciently call'd Hourbecthion G. Girefte 73 deg 40 min. Long. 31 deg 10 min. Lat. One of the biggest Cities in the Province of Kerman The Trade of the City consists in Hones and Wheat Girrcadegon vulgarly Paygon 75 deg 35 min. Long. 34 deg 15 min. Lat. Goutem 74 deg 46 min. Long. 37 deg 20 min. Lat. A little City full of Silk-Twisters H. Hamadan 75 deg 20 min. Long. 34 deg Lat. The Country about it breeds great store of Cattel Hasn-Eltaf or The Center of Beauty
Caravansera's and Government of the Caravans 45 Chap. XI Of the breeding nature and several sorts of camels 49 Chap. XII Of the Coyns and Money of Persia. 50 The Second BOOK of the Persian Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER containing the several Roads from Paris to Ispahan the Capital City of Persia through the Southern Provinces of Turky and through the Deserts Chap. I. THe second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan and first of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta 53 Chap. II. The Description of Aleppo now the Capital City of Syria 57 Chap. III. Of the several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan and particularly of the Road through the Great Desert Pag. 60 Chap. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through Mesopotamia and Assyria which I travell'd in my third Voyage to the Indies 66 Chap. V. A Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Ispahan together with the Story of an Ambassador call'd Dominico de Santis 72 Chap. VI. Of the Road which the Author kept when he travell'd the fourth time into Asia to go from Paris to Ormus And first of his Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta 78 Chap. VII A Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the fourth Voyage into Asia and particularly of his passage upon the Tigris from Nineveh to Babylon 82 Chap. VIII A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John 87 Chap. IX A Continuation of the Road from Balsara to Ormus 94 Chap. X. Of the Author's first Voyage and the Adventures of the four French-men 95 The Third BOOK of the Persian Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER containing the Author's Sixth and Last Voyages and the Roads through Turky into Persia through the Northern Provinces of Europe With a Description of several Countries lying upon the Black and Caspian Seas Chap. I. OF the Author's sixth and last Voyage from his setting out of Paris to his Landing at Smyrna 99 Chap. II. A Continuation of the Author's sixth Voyage as he travell'd from Smyrna to Ispahan 102 Chap. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris through Diarbequir and Van. 103 Chap. IV. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris through Geziré and other places 108 Chap. V. The Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through the Small Desert and through Kengavar 109 Chap. VI. Another Road from Constantinople to Ispahan by the Euxine or Black Sea with some Remarks upon the principal Cities there abouts 113 Chap. VII The Road from Warsow to Ispahan over the Black Sea and from Ispahan to Mosco with the names of the principal Cities and Islands of Turky according to the vulgar pronunciation as they are call'd in the Language of the Turks 115 Chap. VIII Remarks upon the Trade of the Island of Candy and the principal Isles of the Archipelago as also upon some of the Cities of Greece adjoyning with a particular Relation of the present condition of the Grand Signor's Galleys belonging as well to the Isles as to the Continent 118 Chap. IX A Relation of the present State of Georgia 123 Chap. X. A Relation of the present State of Mengrelia 125 Chap. XI Of Comania Circassia and of certain people which they call Kalmouchs 126 Chap. XII Of the Ceremonies and Customs of the people of Comania and Circassia 129 Chap. XIII Of the lesser Tartars call'd Nogaies bord'ring upon Comania 132 The Fourth BOOK of the Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER being a Description of Persia. Chap. I. OF the Extent of Persia and its Division into Provinces 141 Chap. II. Of the Flowers and Fruits of Persia of Turquoises and Pearls 144 Chap. III. Of the Beasts of Service of the Fish and Fowl of Persia. 145 Chap. IV. Of the manner of Building in Persia. 147 Chap. V. A Description of Ispahan the chief City of the Kingdom and Dominion of the King of Persia. 148 Chap. VI. Of Zulpha a City separated from Ispahan by the River Senderou 155 Chap. VII Of the Religion of the Persians of the great Feast of Hocen and Hussein and the Camel-Feast 160 Chap. VIII Of the Religion of the Gaurs the Relicks of the ancient Persians Adorers of Fire 163 Chap. IX Of the Religion of the Armenians and of their principal Ceremonies and how the Armenians Consecrate and Administer the Sacrament 169 Chap. X. Of the Ordination of their Priesthood and their Austerities 170 Chap. XI Of their Baptism 171 Chap. XII Of the Marriage of the Armenians 172 Chap. XIII How the Armenians Bury their Dead 173 Chap. XIV Examples of the Constancy of the Armenians in maintaining their Religion against the Persecutions of the Mahometans 174 Chap. XV. Of the Author's Reception at the Court of Persia in his sixth and last Voyage and what he did there during his stay at Ispahan 177 Chap. XVI Of the Honours and Presents which the Author receiv'd from the King of Persia. 179 Chap. XVII How the King was pleas'd to divertise himself in the Author's Company 181 The Fifth BOOK of the Persian Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER being a Politick and Historical Description of Persia with the Roads from Ispahan to Ormus Chap. I. OF the Genealogy of the Kings of Persia of the last Race 195 Chap. II. Of certain particular Actions which denote the Virtues and Vices of the Kings of Persia from Sha-Abas the first to Sha-Soliman the present King And first of Sha-Abas the Great 202 Chap. III. Of what fell out most memorable in the Reign of Sha-Sefi the first and particularly of the Death of Iman-Kouli-Kan and his three Sons Pag. 198 Chap. IV. The Tragical and memorable Story of Ralph Sadler Native of Zurich in the Reign of Sha-Sefi who had retain'd him in his Service 207 Chap. V. Of some particulars under the Reign of Sha-Abas the second 199 Chap. VI. Of the misfortune of Mahomet-Beg in the Reign of Sha-Abas the second 212 Chap. VII Of the Rebellion of the Prince of Jasque a Vassal to the King of Persia in the Reigns of Sha-Sefi the first and Sha-Abas the second 217 Chap. VIII Observations upon the Reign of Sha-Solimon the present King 218 Chap. IX Of the Government of Persia. 219 Chap. X. Of the first of the three Orders or States of Persia which comprehends the King's Houshold the Kans or Governours of Provinces and the Souldiery 221 Chap. XI Of the second Order containing all those that belong to the Ecclesiastical Law and their Courts of Justice and in general of all the Gown-men such as are chiefly the Officers of the Chamber of Accounts 226 Chap. XII Of the third Estate of the Kingdom comprehending the Tradesmen and Merchants as also the Trades Manufactures and Commodities of Persia. 229 Chap. XIII Of the Justice and Policy of the Persians 232 Chap. XIV Of the Manners and Customs of the Persians 234 Chap. XV. Of the Diseases of Persia and the manner of Curing them 239 Chap. XVI Of the Division of Time among the Persians 240 Chap. XVII Of the Feasts and
almost encompass it You may embark at Venice and saying along the Gulf which is free from Pirates you must double the Cape of Matapan the most Southern Point of all Europe to enter into the Archipelago The other way is from Marseilles or Ligorn from whence several Vessels are bound for the East The safest way is to go along with the English or Holland Fleets that usually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn and part just against the Morea to the several parts whither they are bound As the Wind serves those Fleets sometimes make Sail between the Iland of Elba and Italy and by the Tower of Messina sometimes below Sicily and Sardigna within sight of Malta Thus you must come within sight of Candy whether you are bound for Constantinople Smyrna or Alexandretta from whence it is but three days journey to Aleppo from one of which three Cities you must necessarily begin your journey if you intend for Persia. Some take Egypt in their way using through Alexandria Cairo and Damiata whence several Vessels are bound for Joppa or St. John's of Acra which is not far off from thence to Jerusalem or Damascus and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon If you will venture in a single Vessel not staying for the Fleets you may hire a Vessel from Ligorn to Naples from Naples to Messina keeping along by the Shore and lying a-shore every night I took this way and went from Messina to Syracuse where are to be seen the most remarkable footsteps of Antiquity 'T is like a City under ground and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow at the bottom whereof if a man whisper they that are at the top may hear him They call this Rock Dionysius the Tyrant's Ear for being at the top he easily understood what the People said of him below and discovered the Counsels of the chief Men of Syracuse whom lie kept prisoners there Syracuse has nothing of that splendour which renown'd it when it was the Mistress of all Sicily and when Greece jealous of her power made War upon her But the Soil is very plentiful and the Gallies of Malta very often take in their Provisions there Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin Friers going out of which you may walk for half an hour between two very high Rocks where there are several little Cells with every one a Garden where the Friers sometimes retire and it is certainly one of the most pleasing Solitudes in the World From Syracuse I went to Malta where you must wait for some Ship that is bound for the East CHAP. II. Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia. IT is seldom that any Caravans go from Constantinople into Persia but from Bursa they go every two Months Bursa is the Capital City of Bithynia not above three days journey from Constantinople or a little more These two Roads meet at Chabangi where you may be from Bursa in two Days and so I will only speak of the Roads from Constantinople to Ispahan This Journey is to be undertaken either with the Caravan of Camels or else ten or twelve Men in a Company well mounted and well arm'd From Constantinople you cross over to Scutari upon the Coast of Asia Setting out from Scutari the first days journey is very pleasant over Fields gayly painted with Flowers in their season At first for some time together on both sides the way you see nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids and you may easily discern the Womens Monuments from the Mens For there is a Turbant upon the Pyramid of the Mens Sepulcher but the Pyramids of the Womens Monuments are trimm'd with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country That Evening you must lye at Cartali a Village of Bithynia the next Day at Gebisa anciently Lybissa famous for the Tomb of Hannibal In that place there are two good Inns and two fair Fountains The third Day you come to Isnich which is thought to be the ancient Niceae one part of the City is built upon the descent of a Hill the other part upon a Plain that reaches to the Sea and makes the Golf of Isnich The Haven consists of two Moles made of Free-stone and three great Enclosures encompass'd with Walls which serve instead of so many Arsenals wherein there are Store-houses full of large Timber for building Houses and Galleys The Country round about being an excellent place for Hunting and the Soil bearing rare Fruits and rich in Wine caus'd Sultan Amuratt to build a Seraglio in the highest part of the Town from whence there is a prospect at the same time both over the Sea and the Country The Jews inhabit the greatest part of the Town dealing chiefly in Timber and Corn. When the Wind serves you may go from Constantinople to Isnich in seven or eight Hours there being no danger in the passage The fourth Day you stay at Chabangi a small Town built upon the side of a Lake call'd Chaban-Gigul where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains partly by the Lake-side where in some places the Horse will be up to the Belly This Lake is not above ten Leagues in compass but it yields great store of large Fish infomuch that I have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous Many Emperours have had a design to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea for the more easie transporting to Constantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake And if the Grand Visier who by a Miracle dy'd in his Bed and left his Son successor to his Employment had liv'd some few Years longer he had no question added this to the rest of those famous Works that eterniz'd his Memory Departing from Chabandi you come to lye at Night upon the Bank of a River call'd Zacarat which runs Northward and falls into the Black Sea It is a River plentiful in Fish and you cross over it with a wooden Bridge There is neither Town nor Inn in that place but a League from the River is a great Town call'd Ada the chiefest part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armenians Thither we sent for excellent good Wine and other necessary refreshments From that River to Cancoly where you lye the next Night and have your choice of four Inns you travel all the day in the Mershes over wooden Bridges and Causeys Tuskebasar is the next place a small Village with two Inns. From thence to Cargueslar a great Town with one Inn built upon a River where there is great store of Fish taken which the Inhabitants call Bourma-balouky that is to say the Fish with the long Nose It is speckl'd like a Trout but of a better tast and more esteem'd Polia or Polis is a City seated at the foot of several Mountains the
Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians by which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful The Fortress stands upon a high ground with a double Wall square Towers close one to another and a pitiful Moat The Basha resides there but in a very ill House all the Buildings about the Fortress being in a bad condition In the same Enclosure there is a little rising Ground upon which they have rais'd a small Fort wherein the Janisary-Aga lives and where the Basha has no Power When the Grand Signor has a mind to the Head of this Basha or any other considerable person in the Province he sends a Capigi with order to the Janisary to send for the Person to the little Fort where the Execution is presently done One Example hereof I saw in my last Travels into Persia For the Basha of Erzerom not having sent Twelve thousand Men so soon as the Grand Signor requir'd them for his Wars in Candy the same Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death had the same Order for the Execution of the Basha of Kars and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village upon his return for Constantinople he would needs shew me whether I would or no the Heads of the two Basha's which he was carrying to the Grand Signor in a Bag. Between the first and second Gate of the Fortress are to be seen four and twenty Pieces of Cannon most excellent Guns but lying one upon another without Carriages They lye at Erzerom to be ready upon all occasions when the Grand Signor makes War against the Persians There are in Erzerom several great Inns this City like Tocat being one of the greatest Thoroughfares in Turkie The Country about it bears Wine but not very good and in regard the People are strictly forbid to drink Wine the Merchants are forc'd to buy it very privately for fear it should come to the knowledge of the Cadi Though it be very cold at Erzerom Barley grows there in fourty days and Wheat in sixty which is very remarkable The Customs paid there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver and upon all other Commodities is very severe Silk that comes out of Persia pays four and twenty Crowns for a Camel's Load which is eight hundred Pounds For in the mountainous Countries a Camel's Load is no more but in the plain and even Countries they make 'em carry above ten hundred weight A Load of Indian Calicutts pays a hundred Crowns but the Loads of Linnen are much heavier than those of Silk As for other Commodities they pay Six per Cent. according to their value From this Stage the Caravan sets forward to a Fortress call'd Hassan Kala where you must pay half a Piaster for every Camel's or Horses Load going from Erzerom to Erivan but returning you pay but half as much Leaving this Fortress you must go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which is call'd Choban-Cupri Over this Bridge which is the fairest in the whole Journey you cross two Rivers which there meet one is the Kars and the other is a Stream that falls from a Mountain call'd Binguiel both which disburthen themselves into the Aras The Caravan usually stays a day or two at this Bridge because the Caravan divides it self at this place some continuing on the High-road others taking the Road of Kars as well to avoid fording the Aras several times as the paying a great Duty upon the great Road where they exact four Piasters upon every Camel's Load and two upon every Horse-Load whereas at Kars you are dismiss'd for half so much I went Kars Road twice but it is longer and more troublesom than the other As soon as you leave the Bridge for the first four days you travel over woody Mountains and very desert Countries where you meet but with one Village but coming near Kars the Country is more pleasant and well manur'd bearing all sorts of Grain Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude in a very good Soil The City is very large but thinly peopl'd though Provision be very plentiful and very cheap But the Grand Signor always choosing that place to rendezvouz his Army whenever he intended to recruit it and to lodge his People there which he sent to build Villages the King of Persia has ruin'd all the Country as he did at Sulfa and in many other Frontier places for nine or ten days journey together From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey and lyes where it can find most convenience there being no certain Stages The first days journey ends at a Monastery and a Village the one no less deserted than the other The next day you come to the Ruines of a great City call'd Anikagaë in the Armenian Language the City of Ani which was the name of an Armenian King that was the Founder of it By the Wall on the East-side runs a rapid Stream that falls from the Mountains of Mingrelia and empties it self into the River of Kars This City was very strongly situated being plac'd in a Mersh where are to be seen the Remains of two Causeys that only led to the Town There are the Ruines of several Monasteries among the rest two that are entire suppos'd to be Royal Foundations From thence to Erivan for two days journey you meet with only two Villages near the last of which you ride by the side of a Hill whither when the Caravan passes by the People bring Horses from several Parts to be sold. The Great Road from the Bridge where the Caravan parts lyes thus Two Leagues from the Bridge on the right hand toward the South lyes a great Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol In this Mountain there are abundance of Springs and from one side of it falls Euphrates from the other side the River of Kars which empties it self into the Aras fourteen or fifteen Leagues on this side Erivan The Aras which the Ancients call'd Araxes falls from other Mountains Eastward of Mingol which after many windings through the Upper Armenia where it receives many other Rivers that swell its Streams it discharges it self into the Caspian Sea two days journey from Shamaki upon the Frontiers of the ancient Medes The whole Country is inter-cut by the Rivers Aras and Kars and several other Streams that fall into them inhabited by very few but what are Christians those few Mahumetans that live among them being so superstitious that they will not drink the Water of any of those Rivers nor wash in them believing them impure and defil'd by the use which the Christians make of them They have their particular Wells and Cisterns by themselves which they will not suffer a Christian to come near Comasour is the first Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri going to Erivan Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comasour this is a great Town also
to the Sword after he had given them his Word to the contrary and promis'd to spare their Lives CHAP. IV. A Continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris IT usually takes up ten days journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan and Tauris and Nacksivan is almost in the mid-way between both The first days journey you travel thorough large Plains sow'd with Rice and water'd with several Rivulets The next day you continue to travel through Plains of the same nature in sight of the Mountain Ararat which is full of Monasteries leaving it upon the South The Armenians call this Mountain Mesesoufar The Mountain of the Ark because the Ark of Noah rested upon it It is as it were unfasten'd from the other Mountains of Armenia and from the half-way to the top it is continually cover'd with Snow It is higher than any of the neighbouring Mountains and in my first Travels I saw it for five days journey together So soon as the Armenians discover it they kiss the Earth and lifting up their Eyes to Heaven say their Prayers Yet you are to take notice that the Mountain is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together In the Plains that you cross in this second days journey to the Southward a League and a half from the High-way is to be seen a Work of great Art being the Ruines of a Magnificent Castle where the Kings of Armenia were wont to reside in the time of their Hunting Divertisements more especially when they continu'd their Sports at the Mallard and Heron. The next day we lodg'd near to a Village where there was good Water which constrain'd the Caravan to stay there there being none to be met with for ten Leagues farther The next day you must travel one by one through the Pass of a Mountain and cross a large River nam'd Arpa-sou which falls into Aras It is fordable when it is low but when the Snow melts and swells the Stream you must go a League out of your way to the Southward to cross it over a Bridge of Stone From thence you go to lodge near a Village call'd Kalifakiend where you are forc'd to fetch your Water a good way off The first days journey is through a Plain at the end whereof you meet with an Inn call'd Kara-bagler standing upon a Rivulet which was finish'd in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet springs three or four Leagues higher toward the North and half a League below Kara-bagler the Water congeals and petrifies and of those Stones is the Inn built The Stone is very slight and when they have need of it they make Trenches all along the Stream and fill them with the same Water which in eight or ten Months turns into Stone The Water is very sweet and has no bad tast yet the Country-men thereabouts will neither drink it nor water their Grounds with it The Armenians say that Sem the Son of Noah caus'd the Rock to be hollow'd out of which this River issues which four or five Leagues from its Head and two from the Inn falls into Aras From this Inn to Naksivan is but a small Journey Naksivan according to the Opinion of the Armenians is the most ancient City of the World built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah rested from whence it also takes its Name for Nak in the Armenian Tongue signifies a Ship and Sivan resting or reposing 'T was a great City now wholly ruin'd by the Army of Sultan Amurath There are the Remains of several rare Mosquees which the Turks have destroy'd for the Turks and Persians destroy one anothers Mosquees as fast as they fall into one anothers possession This City is very ancient and the Armenians report that it was in this place where Noah went to live when he went out of the Ark. They say further that he was Buried here and that his Wife has a Tomb at Marante upon the Road to Tauris There runs a little River by Naksivan the Water whereof is very good the Spring whereof is not far distant from the Head of the River of Karabagler The Armenians drove a great Trade in Silk formerly in this Town which is now very much abated however there is a Kan which has the Command there All the Country between Erivan and Tauris was wholly destroy'd by Sha-Abas King of Persia and the first of that Name to the end that the Armies of the Turks not meeting with any subsistance might perish of themselves To this purpose he sent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa and the Parts adjoyning into Persia Old and Young Fathers Mothers and Children with which he planted new Colonies in several parts of his Kingdom He sent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan whence the Silks come and where the harshness of the Climate kill'd abundance of those poor People that were accustom'd to a milder Air. The most considerable were sent to Ispahan where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk and lent them Commodities for which they paid upon the return of their Markets which suddenly set the Armenians upon their Feet again These are they that built the City of Zulfa which is only separated from Ispahan by the River of Senderou calling it New Zulfa to distinguish it from the old City which was the Habitation of their Ancestors A third part of the People were dispers'd into other Villages between Ispahan and Sciras But the old People dying the young ones generally turn Mahumetans so that now you can hardly meet with two Christian Armenians in all those fair Plains which their Fathers were sent to manure Among the Ruines of Naksivan appear the Ruines of a great Mosquee which was one of the most stately Buildings in the World which some say was built in memory of Noah's Burying-place As you depart out of the City near to the River that runs by it appears a Tower which is an excellent piece of Architecture It is compos'd of four Duomo's joyn'd together which support a kind of Pyramid that seems to be fram'd of twelve little Towers but toward the middle it changes its figure and lessening like a Spire ends in a Point The Building is all of Brick but as well the out-side as the in-side is over-spread with a kind of Varnish of Parget wrought into Flowers like Emboss'd Work 'T is thought to have been an Edifice set up by Temur-leng when he had Conquer'd Persia. THE PLATFORME OF BAGDAT A League and a half from the chief of these Covents there is a high Mountain separated from all the rest which rises like a Sugar-loaf as doth the Pike of Tenariff At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs that have the virtue to heal those that are bit by Serpents in so much that Serpents carry'd to that place will dye immediately When the Caravan is ready to set out from Naksivan for Zulfa which is not above a days journey from thence the principal Armenians usually
for the great Road. The Caravan having cross'd the Stream where we left it lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras over which it ferries the next Morning It does not go thorough Zulfa though it be so near it because that on the other side of the City there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfrequented For which reason you must leave Zulfa on the right hand which is not much out of the way After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd Sugiac after which you come upon Heaths encompass'd with high Rocks All this days journey you meet with no Water but only one little Fountain and the Water is so bad that the Beasts will hardly drink it The day following you travel through an even Country but very barren where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn though it be a place where Cost has been bestow'd and built all of Free-stone that was fetch'd a great way off The next Stage is Marante famous for the Burying-place of Noah's Wife The Town is not very big resembling rather a Thicket than a City but the situation is very pleasant in the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with several well peopl'd Villages This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante the Country beyond it being all barren However it is not altogether unprofitable for being a continual Heath it affords feeding for the Camels which are there bred for the Caravans Which is the reason that there are so many Camel-Masters at Sugiac and Marante who furnish great part of the Road. At Marante you must pay thirteen Abassi's or four Crowns for every Camel's Load for the security of the Road. Leaving Marante you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bushy Plain where the Water is worth nothing after you have travell'd a mix'd Country barren enough where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley but it is a very fair one Sophiana is an indifferent large City which you cannot see till you come within it by reason of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it which makes it look rather like a Forest than a City The next day which is usually the tenth days journey from Erivan the Caravan having cross'd fair large and fertil Plains arrives at Tauris Those Plains are water'd with several Streams that fall from the Median Mountains but the Water is not all of the same goodness for there is some which cannot be drunk In the mid-way between Sophiana and Tauris lyes a Hill from whence you have a prospect over those Plains upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd when he besieg'd Tauris The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Persia that he had burnt it and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thousand Men Let him come said he without any disturbance I know how to make the Turks pay for their Invasion without any great trouble They were then not above fifteen days march from Ispahan when Sha-Sefi turn'd the course of all the Streams both before and behind which only run from certain Springs and are brought in Cutts or Chanels into the Inland-parts of Persia where there are no Rivers By which means the whole Army of the Turks perish'd for want of Water in those vast unwater'd Countries where they had engag'd themselves too far Tauris lyes in 83 Degrees 30 Minutes of Longitude and 40 Degrees 15 Minutes of Latitude in an open place where there is not a Tree to be seen and environ'd with Mountains on every side but only upon the West The furthest Mountain is not above a League from the City but there is one which almost touches it being only separated from it by the River 'T is a good Country and fruitful in Corn there is good Pasturage and great store of Pulse Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecbatane the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd as being the Mart for Turkie Muscovy the Indies and Persia. There are an infinite number of Merchants and vast quantities of all sorts of Merchandize particularly of Silk which is brought out of the Province of Guilan and other places There is also a great Trade for Horses which are handsom and cheap Wine Aqua-vitae and indeed all sorts of Provisions are cheap enough and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Asia Many Armenian Families have got great Estates there by Trade and understand it better than the Persians A little River the Water whereof is very good runs through the middle of Tauris it 's call'd Scheinkaie over which there are three Bridges to cross from one part of the City to the other The most part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun the Houses not being above one or two Stories high at most The tops of the Houses are terrass'd the Roofs within are vaulted and plaister'd with Earth mix'd with chopt Straw which they whiten afterwards with Lime In the year 1638 the City was almost ruin'd by Sultan Amurath but it is almost all rebuilt again There are in it Bazars or Market-houses which are well built and many Inns very commodious two Stories high The fairest is that of Mirza-Sadé Governour of the Province who caus'd it to be built with a Market-house adjoyning to which he has added a Mosquee and a Colledge with good Revenues The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Asia for it has a continual Traffick with Turks Arabians Georgians Mengrelians Persians Indians Muscovites and Tartars The Bazars or Market-houses which are cover'd are always full of Goods for there are some which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades the most part whereof are Smiths such as make Saws Axes Files and Steels to strike Fire with Tobacco-stoppers belonging to them Some there are that make Pad-locks for the Eastern People fasten their Doors only with wooden Bolts There are also Turners that furnish the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles and some Goldsmiths that make trifles of Silver But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artists and work very neatly and indeed there are more of those than of any other Trade Here it is that they dress the greatest part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended so plentifully all over Persia for there are none unless it be the Country-people but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin-Leather This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horses Asses or Mules and only of the hinder part of the Hide but the Asses Hide has the best grain There are to be seen at Tauris Ruines of the stately Edifices round about the great Piazza and the neighbouring Parts they have also let run to ruine four or five Mosquees of a prodigious height and bigness The most magnificent and the biggest stands as you go out of the Town in the Road to Ispahan The Persians will
Mountain he demanded who built it and what was his design To whom the Mollah return'd this Answer Sir said he I built that Bridge that when your Majesty came to Tauris you might inform your self from the mouth of him that built it By which it appear'd that the Mollah had no other ambition than to oblige the King to speak to him A League from Tauris to the West in the middle of a Field stands a great Brick Tower call'd Kanhazun It is about fifty Paces in Diameter and though it be half ruin'd yet it is very high It seems to have been the Dungeon of some Castle there being very high Walls round about it which though they be but of Earth nevertheless appear to be very ancient It is not certainly known who built this Tower but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us some reason to conclude that it was a Mahometan Structure In the year 1651 there happen'd a terrible Earthquake in Tauris and the parts thereabout by which many Houses were overturn'd and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom a good part of it fell down and fill'd up the hollow within-side Besides the little River that runs by Tauris there is another bigger to be cross'd about half a League from the City over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge Near to it stands a Sepulcher cover'd with a little Duomo where the Persians say that the Sister of Iman-Riza lyes interr'd and they have it in great veneration The River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North and falls into the Lake Roumi thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris They call it Aggisou or Bitter-water for the Water is very bad and without any Fish The Lake which is fifteen Leagues in compass has the same quality the Water being blackish the Fish that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it presently become blind and in a short while are found dead by the Shoar This Lake takes its name from a Province and a little City which are both call'd Roumi being not above eleven Leagues from Tauris In the middle of the Lake upon the way that leads to a little City call'd Tokoriam there is a little Hill that rises insensibly the ascent whereof is very smooth and out of it there rise many little Springs The farther they run from the Head the wider grow the Streams and the Earth which they water is of two distinct qualities the first Earth that is dig'd serves to make Lime the next to that is a hollow spungy Stone that is good for nothing but under that again is a white transparent Stone which you may see through as through Glass which being smooth and polish'd serves to adorn the Houses This Stone is only a congelation of the Waters of these Streams for sometimes you shall meet with creeping Animals congeal'd within The Governour of the Province sent one piece to Sha-Abas as a great Present wherein there was a Lizard congeal'd of a Foot long He that presented it to the Governour had twenty Tomans or three hundred Crowns afterwards I offer'd a thousand for the same Piece In some parts of the Province of Mazandran where the Euxin Sea stretches farthest into the Persian Territories these congeal'd Stones are to be found but not so frequently as near the Lake Roumi and you shall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congeal'd in the Stones I brought away a Camels-loading of these Stones and left them at Marseilles till I could find what use to put them to CHAP. V. A Continuation of the Constantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Ispahan through Ardevil and Casbin FRom Tauris to Ispahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days journey The first day you cross over dry Mountains and four Leagues from Tauris you meet with one of the fairest Inns in Persia. This Inn Sha-Sefi caus'd to be built it is very convenient and large enough to lodge a hundred persons with their Horses Over all Persia especially from Tauris to Ispahan and from thence to Ormus you meet every day with Inns at an equal distance The next day you descend a Mountain in very rugged and narrow way At the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choose that will go to Ispahan They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through Kom and Kachan leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads and they that will go through Ardevil and Casbin two other good Cities leave the Lake upon the right hand and coast along by the side of the Mountain From Tauris to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues and having pass'd the Lake the Country is very good Which is the Road I intend to describe first Ardevil being at so small a distance from Tauris lyes almost in the same Degrees and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude This City is famous as well for being the first Market of Silks that come from Guilan from which it is not far off as also for the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi the first of that Name King of Persia. The avenues to it are very pleasant being as it were Alleys of great Trees which are call'd Tchinar planted in a streight line at a due distance It is of a moderate bigness and seated in a lovely opening of the Mountains The next to the City which is call'd Sevalan is the highest in all Media The Houses of Ardevil are built of Earth as are most of the Houses in the Cities of Persia but the Streets are very uneven dirty and narrow There is but one which is handsom at the end whereof is built the Armenian Church A little River runs through the middle of the City which descending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from East to West It is by Industry brought into many Cutts to water the Gardens and in many places there are very fair Trees planted which are very delightful to the Sight The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one more long than round where stands a very fine Inn upon one side which the Kan caus'd to be built There are several others in several parts of the City which have the Prospect over several lovely Gardens especially that which belongs to the King to which you go through a long and stately Walk of four rows of Trees at the end whereof stands a large Gate that gives you entrance Though the Country about Ardevil be proper to bear Vines yet there are none thereabouts nor is there any Wine made till about four or five Leagues from the City The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well stor'd with it though there be no place in all Persia where there is so much Caution to be us'd either as to the Importing it or the Drinking it both which must be done very privately Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superstition the Persians having so peculiar a Veneration for that place that they
in Gardens There are three Inns with Market-places round about one of the three being large and commodious It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans or if there be any Christians they are very few The Soil about Casbin produces Pistaches The Tree that bears them is never bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old The great quantity of Pistaches that are exported out of Persia come from Malavert a little City twelve Leagues from Ispahan toward the East These are the best Pistaches in the World and the Country being of a large extent produces them in such abundance that it furnishes all Persia and the Indies Leaving Casbin you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn and you travel that day six Leagues through Countries fertil enough and well water'd The next day you travel through a good Country and in nine or ten hours you come to Denghé This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill through which there runs a fair River It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine where the Travellers take care to replenish their Bottles But generally they never lye here being desirous to go a League farther for a good Inn's sake which makes it a handsom Stage At this Town of Denghé it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Ispahan meet the first through Ardeüil and Casbin I have already describ'd Hither also come the Caravans that go for the Indies through Meshéhed and Candahar and where they leave Ispahan Road to take the left-hand Way which carries them Eastward CHAP. VI. The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan through Zangan Sultanie and other places WE must now return again to the Lake six Leagues beyond Tauris where they that will take the ordinary short way through Zangan and Sultanie leave the left hand way of Ardeüil and Casbin This Lake is usually full of large red Ducks which are very good Meat From thence after twelve or thirteen hours travel in which time you meet with three Inns you come to Karashima a large Town in a deep Valley that seems to be well manur'd There is in it only a small Inn built of Earth the Doors whereof are so low that the People are forc'd to creep upon their knees to get in The next day you come to another large Village call'd Turcoma where the Soil is fertil though it be very cold There are several Caravansera's built like a long Alley cover'd which are only of Earth the Men lying at one end and the Horses at another The next day you travel over an uneven and desert Country and in eight hours time you come to Miana a little City situated in a Marsh where you pay a Toll for Guarding the Highways In this City is one of the fairest Inns in all Persia. Two hours after you leave Miana you must cross a River over a fair Bridge which runs to decay the Arches whereof are hollow within it is built of Brick and Free-stone being near as long as Pont neuf in Paris This Bridge stands almost at the foot of a Mountain call'd Kaplenton Sha-Abas caus'd all the way to be Pav'd because the Land is so fat and sloughy that when it thaws or that the least Rain falls it is impossible for the Caravan to pass Besides there are a sort of Camels in Persia that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil are not able to keep their Legs nay through the weight of the Burthens which they carry their very Quarters will rive from their Shoulders and their Bellies will burst So that before the way was pav'd they were forc'd to spread Carpets in the most slippery ways where those Camels were to pass which must be still done in some places where the Pavement is worn away At the lower part of the descent toward Ispahan upon the knap of a Hill which stands by it self appears an old forsak'n Fortress it is near the Highway and a River which falls into the Caspian Sea after it has cross'd the Province of Guilan where it is cut into several Channels But generally the Corn and Fruits which grow in Persia by the help of Water forc'd into Channels are of little esteem and much cheaper than those that grow in the Provinces whose Fertility is not Artificial Moreover that sort of forc'd Grain will not keep above a Year and if you keep it longer it breeds a Vermin that eats it 'T is the same thing if the Corn be grownd and more than that there breeds a Worm in the Flowr that makes it so bitter that t is impossible to eat it On this side the Mountain Kaplenton appear at a distance two others very high one toward the North call'd Saveland another toward the South call'd Seharâââ there is a third which cannot be seen in Ispahan-Road being too far out of the way near the City of Hamadan These three Mountains are full of Springs from whence most of the Streams do fall that water Persia And the Persians do say that formerly there were many more of these Springs but that about a hundred Years ago several of them have been dry'd up or otherwise no body can tell what is become of them There are several Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King but are oblig'd to send him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter for the use of the Mosquee at Ardeüil They have also one great Priviledge That if a Man commits a Murther and flyes to any of these Villages he cannot be apprehended nor can the King himself punish him Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton you come to a fair Inn call'd Tshamalava built some years ago and for thirteen hours after travelling over a very barren Country you meet with another Inn which is call'd Sartcham standing in a very desert place which makes the Raders that lye there to secure the Highways very insolent finding themselves so far from any Towns or Villages From Sartcham you come to a River by the Banks whereof you travel a good while till you come to an Inn which is call'd Digbé near a large Village The Structure is very handsom the lower part being of Free-stone undulated with red and white and very hard The next day you travel a very uneven Country till you fall into a deep Valley at the end whereof you meet with Zangan a great Town and ill built However it has a very fair Inn which when I went last to Ispahan was so full that I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain but for the Courtesie of two Armenians From Zangan you go to an Inn where you must pay the Duties due to the Kan of Sultanie Sultanie is a very large City which you leave half a Mile from the Road near to a Mountain Formerly it had in it very beautiful Mosquees as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines that remain Many Christian Churches also were converted into Mosquees and if
you will beleive the Armenians they will tell you that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chappels Three Leagues from Sultanie stands an Inn and a League farther a great Town call'd Ija where there is another very commodious Inn and most excellent Wine From thence you go to Habar an ancient City and of a large extent but very much ruin'd inhabited by Armenians for the most part Here for the good Wines sake the Travellers stay to recruit their Bottles From Habar after seven hours travel you come to a Village call'd Partin From Zangan to Partin you reach in two days It stands in a fertil Plain where there are several other Villages It is not above three Leagues broad being enclos'd on each side to the East and West with a row of high Mountains Having pass'd this Plain you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited which lasts all the day till you come to Sexava You pass by the Ruines of a Village where there are but two Houses standing with the Tower of a Mosquee which is very high and slender Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn built some few years since and near to that a Castle call'd Khiara upon the peek of a Hill but very ill built Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts The Inns that are there being built of Earth and being but little are very handsom and convenient their number supplying the defect of their smalness From Sexava after seven hours travel you come to a great Inn call'd Idgioup which was formerly a nobler place than now it is standing alone in a Field Three Leagues from thence you meet with another spacious Inn call'd Cochkeria and four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghé where the two Roads meet which I spake of in the foregoing Chapter From Denghé to Kom are three days journey over a barren dry and desert Country where there is no Water but Cistem-water except in some very few places where it is very good Four Leagues from Denghé is a fair Inn and three Leagues farther stands another about a Mile from a Village to the South where there grows excellent good Wine white and red From this last Inn to Sava is not above three hours travel with the Caravan Sava is a good City in a fertil Plain where there are several Villages The greatest Trade of the Town is in little grey Lamb-skins the curl whereof is very neat of which they make Furrs Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country is very well manur'd and after you have forded a River half a League from the City after two hours travel you come to one of the fairest Inns in all Persia which was finish'd when I went last to Ispahan From thence to Kom it is about seven or eight hours journey through a dry and sandy Road but half a League on this side Kom the Land is very good and fruitful Kom is one of the great Cities of Persia in a fat Country abounding in Rice There grow also excellent Fruits particularly large and excellent Granates The Walls are only of Earth with little Towers close one to another and the Houses being only of Earth are never the handsomer within-side At the entry into the Town you must cross a River over a stone Bridge and then turning to the right hand over a fair Key you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient That which is most remarkable in Kom is a large Mosquee no less in veneration among the Persians than the Mosquee of Ardeüil There it is that you may see the Sepulchers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second as also the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima the Daughter of Iman-Hoven who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter of Mahomet The great Gate of the Mosquee answers to a Piazza more long than broad where stands an Inn and certain Shops which without-side are somewhat beautiful One of the sides of the Piazza is clos'd up with a low Wall over which appears the Shore and a River which you cross at the end of the Piazza Over the great Portal of the Mosquee stands an Inscription in Letters of Gold in the Praise of Sha-Abas the Second The first place that you enter into is a Court of more length than breadth which may be term'd a Garden in regard that on each side of the Alley in the middle which is pav'd there are several square Beds of Flowers yellow Jasmin and other Plants which are rail'd in by a Rail that runs all the length of the Alley on each side It is not an easie thing for the Christians to get in to this Court especially such whose Habits and Aspect they do not like But as I cloth'd and carry'd my self I never was deny'd entrance into any place either in Persia or India In this first Court on the left hand as you enter are little Chambers where they that receive the Alms which by the Foundation of the Mosquee are to be distributed every day come and eat their proportion and then go their ways Those Chambers serve as an Asylum to those that cannot pay their Debts as at the Mosquee of Ardeüil Neither are these Priviledg'd places like ours where they that retire must live at their own Charge For in Persia they are fed at the Expence of the Mosquee and being in that manner freed from Care their Friends more easily bring their Creditors to Composition Out of the first Court you pass into a second which is larger and all pav'd and from that into a third which is square and rais'd like a Terrass You enter into it through a large Gate at the end of an open Passage where stand the Lodgings of the Moullah's Out of that Court by an ascent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps you enter into a fair Court which is also rais'd like a Terrass in the midst whereof is a fair Fountain It is continually fill'd by little Pipes of Water which run into it and is empty'd by others that carry the Water into several parts of the whole Enclosure There are some Buildings in this Court but one of the sides of it is taken up with the Front of the Mosquee which is no displeasing Structure There are three large Gates belong to it very well expanded according to the mode of the Country with a Brick-wall before about the height of a Man with Holes in it for Light made like a Lozange The Threshold of the middle Gate is cover'd with a plate of Silver and between these three Gates and that of the Duomo are several Doctors that hold Books in their hands and read perpetually This Mosquee is Octagonal and at every angle is a small wooden Door of Walnut-tree varnish'd with grey and yellow The Tomb of Sidi-Fatima is at the farther part of the Mosquee there being only room for one Man to pass between the Wall and the Tomb. It is encompass'd with a large Silver Grate sixteen
Foot square the Bars whereof are round and knob'd in those places where they cross each other it is lighted by several Lamps of Gold and Silver which altogether is very pleasing to the Eye The inside of the Mosquee to the elevation of the Angles that support the Duomo is compos'd of square Tiles varnish'd over with divers Colours and the Cupola of the Duomo as also the Vault of the Portico of the Mosquee is a Moresco piece of Painting in Or and Azure Upon each side of the Mosquee and near the side where the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima stands appears a great Hall where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor which consist of Pilaw and other diet very well drest From this Tomb you turn to the left hand toward an Ascent distant five and twenty or thirty Paces and at the top of this Ascent is a Door over which there an is Inscription in Honour of Sha-Abas the Second The Door being open'd shews you the place where the Body of that King reposes and through another Door with a Grate in it you may discover under a small Duomo the Tomb of Sha-Sefi his Father which is cover'd with a Carpet of Cloth of Gold They were continually at work upon the Tomb of Sha-Abas which they said they would make very famous I had not been two hours in Kom but a multitude of People ran by the Inn Gate all in extraordinary hast Asking what the matter was they answer'd me that it had been a day long design'd for the two Prophets to fight Thereupon I went to the Piazza which was so crowded that I had much ado to get to see In the first place a sufficient number of Tumblers and Puppet-players divided into two Bands kept the middle of the Piazza and made a sufficient Ring for the Combat Each Band held a Bull by the Horns one of which they call'd Mahomet and the other Haly and whether it were by accident or by the cunning of the Bull-Masters after an obstinate Combat wherein the Beasts foam'd again with heat and rage Mahomet at length quit the Field and yielded Haly the Victory Then all the People shouted for joy and all the Piazza was fill'd with the noise of Flutes and Hautboys and every one coming as if it were to adore Haly cry'd out Behold the Works of God that Haly has made At length they bring the Bull Haly under a Gate with his Head turn'd toward the People where after they have rub'd him to refresh him after a Combat so courageously maintain'd every one sends him Presents which are all the Tumblers profit The Kan or Governour of Kom who was present with a hundred Horses richly trap'd to behold the Sight sent the Bull a Present of 50 Tomans or 750 Crowns They who accompany'd him and the chief Inhabitants of Kom gave him some a Garment others a Girdle Neither did the meanest of the People spare to send or carry him Fruits or other things according to their abilities The Kan was a Lord who was very civil and there was no Stranger that did not commend his behaviour in regard he was so obliging So soon as I came to the place whether it was that he perceiv'd me with a Dutchman that I had brought along from Constantinople or whether any one had inform'd him that there were Strangers near him he sent for us and after he had ask'd us some Questions concerning the occasion of our Travelling he sent for a Seat and caus'd us to sit down Then he ask'd us whence we came and what we did at Ispahan to which when we had answer'd him that we went to wait upon the King he approv'd our Intention complaining that we had not given him advice of our Arrival In the Evening he sent us several Delicacies among the rest six fair Melons and four Bottles of excellent Wine He appear'd to me so brave and generous a Person that I was very much troubled afterwards for his being in dis-favour with the King and his death which ensu'd For this Kan finding the Walls of the City which were only of Earth and the Bridge over the River to be out of repair without writing to the King of his own head laid a slight Imposition upon every Basket of Fruit that was brought into the City Now there are in all the Cities of Persia persons who are hir'd to take an account every Week what the Commodities may be worth and to take care that no more than such a Toll be laid upon any thing which they tax among themselves and when they have set the Rate they cause it to be cry'd at the beginning of every Week Sha-Sefi then reign'd it being the year 1632. The King being inform'd by these people of the Impost which the Kan had set upon Fruit without his knowledge was so enrag'd against him that he caus'd him to be brought in Chains to Ispahan where he us'd him with a strange severity For at that time the Son of the Kan stood at the King's Elbow it being his Office to give him his Pipe and his Tobacco which is a very honourable Employment in Persia. When the Kan came the King caus'd him to be carry'd to the Gate of the Palace in the presence of all the People and then commanded his Son to pull the Hair of his Father's Mustaches by the roots from his Skin After that he commanded him to cut off his Nose and his Ears after that to put out his Eyes and lastly to cut off his Head When he had done the Execution according to the King's pleasure he commanded him to go and take possession of his Father's Government and allowing him an experienc'd Old Man for his Lieutenant he sent him to Kom with these words If thou govern'st no better than this dead Dog has done I will put thee to a more cruel death than this Leaving Kom for four hours you travel over a fair Champain Country after which you come to a fair Village with five or six Inns in it Beyond that is nothing but Sand till you come to a place call'd Abschirim or Fresh-water where there are three Inns at a distance from any Villages From Abschirim to Cachan is six hours journey through a Corn Country and stor'd with great Villages Cachan is a large City well peopl'd and furnish'd with all things necessary for humane subsistance There is an old Wall about it which is faln down in many places so that there is no need of seeking for Gates to get into the City On that side which looks toward Ispahan the Soil is good and produces great store of Fruit and Wine which the Jews take care to make It is reckon'd that there are in Cachan a thousand Families of Jews in Ispahan about six hundred but in Kom there are not above nine or ten Not but that there are many Jews in Persia but those that live in Ispahan Cachan and Kom boast themselves particularly of the Tribe of Judah
abuse his Office Constantinople is at hand where you may complain to the Mufti and have relief who for some good Present may be easily perswaded to depose the Cady as being glad of the opportunity to displace him and to put another in his room The Customs of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor being paid there very exactly But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities the Merchants who would otherwise be losers would not study so many ways as they do to deceive the Customers For those Customers lay what Price they please upon Commodities valuing that at a thousand Crowns which perhaps is not worth three hundred being absolute Masters of the Rate In my last Voyage to Smyrna four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country carry'd a-shoar under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize for the Turks have such a respect for that Sex that they will not so much as offer to search them If a man be tak'n in stealing Customs there is no other punishment than to pay double The Trade of Smyrna is very great and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks transport from thence are raw Silk which the Armenians bring out of Persia Chamlet-yarn and Chamlet or Goats-hair which come from a little City call'd Angouri fifteen or sixteen days journey from Smyrna Cotton twisted Skins and Cordovans of several colours Calicuts white and blew great quantities of Wool for Mattresses Tap'stries quilted Coverlets Soap Rhubarb Galls Valanede Scammony and Opium which four last Commodities are to be had in the Countries near to Smyrna but not in great quantities The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February June and October and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the same Months Ephesus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna on Horse-back I took an opportunity to go thither There were twelve of us that joyn'd together Franks and Hollanders who took three Janisaries along with us and three Horses to carry our Provision We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer and setting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon we rode through a Country part Plains and part Hills till we came to a great Viliage where we sup'd After we had staid there three hours we took Horse and travel'd till Midnight to avoid the Heats By the way we met with nine or ten Arches very narrow which we could not conjecture to be any thing else than the Ruines of some Aqueduct From thence to Ephesus the way is very pleasant through little Thickets watred with Rivulets A quarter of a League from Ephesus you meet with another Mosquee which was formerly a Christian Church built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Ephesus This Mosquee stands enclos'd with Walls and you must ascend up to it by two Ascents of twelve Steps a-piece which bring you to a large Passage From thence you enter into a large Cloyster the Arches whereof are sustain'd with Marble Pillars of several colours delicately wrought and the lower part of the Gallery which runs along three of the sides that consists of great Squares of Stone The Mosquee takes up the fourth side upon the left hand the Gate being in the middle The Mosquee it self is a wide Arch supported by five Columns all of most exquisite Work There are four of Marble and every one of a different Colour but the fifth is a most rare piece being of Porphyry and the bigness of it makes it so much the more to be admir'd Ephesus does not look like a City being so absolutely ruin'd that there is not a House standing It was built upon the descent of a Hill in a situation not much unlike that of Smyrna at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet after it has made a thousand Maeanders in the Meadows The City seems to have been very large for you may discern upon the top of the Gates the compass of the Walls with several square Towers some of which are still standing and there is one very remarkable having two Chambers in it one of which is a very fair one the Walls and Pavement whereof are Marble The famous Temple of Diana stood at the bottom of the Hill near one of the Gates of the City There remains nothing of it at present but the great Portal which is entire The Vaults of the Arches under ground stand to this day and are very large but all full of nastiness We went in with Lanthorns and though you must creep to get in by reason that the Wind has almost stopt up the Hole by gathering the Dust about it yet when you are in you may go upright for the Arches are high and fair and little the worse Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon the Ground and near to that a Fountain ten Foot in Diameter and two deep The People of the Country report that it was the Fountain wherein St. John Baptiz'd the Christians For my part as I have seen in the Indies several Pagods and Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephesus could be I believe it rather to have been a Basin wherein the People put their Offerings of which there are several such that belong to the Indian Pagods The Greeks and Armemenians but above all the Franks when they go to Ephesus always endeavour to break off some piece of that Basin to carry it away with 'em as a Relick but the Stone is so hard that they can break off but very little at a time Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City over which there lyes a great Stone seven or eight Foot square with an emboss'd Figure of Q. Curtius that Famous Roman who threw himself Horse and Arms into the gaping Earth for the good of his Country Many Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to carry it away but cannot obtain leave About five hundred Paces from Ephesus is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers at the bottom of the same Hill where the City was built From Ephesus we went to Scalanova which is not above two Leagues off By that time you come half the way the little River that runs by Ephesus falls into the Sea in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greek Barks fishing for Sturgeon Of the Spawn of this Fish they make Gaveare and drive a great Trade in it in those Parts then they take the most delicate and smallest Entrails of that Fish which they fill with the same Spawn of which they make a kind of a flat Pudding as long as a Bisket which they call Botargo This they dry in the Smoak and cut it afterwards in slices to eat Upon this and the Cuttle-fish the Greeks generally feed during their Lent which is very austere Scalanova is a Port of which I have already spoken and thither we came by seven a Clock in the Evening where the
Governour of the Place more civil than usually the Turks are accustom'd to be made us very welcom In the Evening one of our Janizaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants who thereupon had beaten him and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Master who not giving him that satisfaction which he desir'd thereupon the Turk study'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company For this reason upon some pretence or other he went before the better to bring about his design We staid till the Morning and then departed early from Scalanova and by Noon we came with good Stomachs to the Mosquee near Ephesus where we had been the day before And some of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in i' the shade thereupon we sent for our Provisions with a Boracho of Wine and another of Water and fell to eating in the Passage into the Mosquee not dreaming any harm We had not been long at it when we perceiv'd two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off who came from a Village very near to the Mosquee I knowing the custom of the Country better than they told them that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us and therefore caus'd them to hide the Bottle of Wine immediately for it was then the Turks Ramezan or Lent during which time Wine is strictly forbidden These two ill-contriv'd and ill-clad Fellows were the Janizaries of the place whom the Cadi had sent upon the information of our Janizary who knowing we had eaten in the same place before as indeed we had done made no question but we would do so again thinking to surprize us as we were drinking Wine in a place which they esteem Sacred and by consequence was among them accounted an act of Sacriledge Christian Dogs cry'd they when they came near us to eat and drink in a Mosquee and profane a holy place as you do at a time that renders the offence more criminal No cry'd I answering for the rest we drink no Wine we drink nothing but Water and you may tast it said I to him that was the most busie with that I caus'd a Glass to be pour'd out and giv'n him and I gave one of the Turks a private wink who understanding it was a promise of gratuity turn'd about to his Comrades and cry'd 'T is very true they drink no Wine However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady there was no contending Thereupon I and three others undertook to and answer for all the rest The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janizary at first but he was not only surpriz'd but very much troubl'd when they all unanimously affirm'd that we drank no Wine believing they were confederates with us But I had cunningly slipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a sign with my Eye who over-joy'd at so plentiful a gratuity had over-perswaded his Comrades not to say any thing against us The Cady though he did not like their Testimony yet call'd for Coffee for us according to the custom of the Country and sent us to his Lieutenant who having been often greas'd in the Fist by the Smyrna-Merchants receiv'd us very kindly and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place and was needy however a small matter would content him Thereupon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats who most certainly went snips with the Cady and so return'd us to our Company who were much afraid we would not have come off so We were resolv'd to return to Smyrna not the same way we came and so we took another Road which was a very pleasant way partly over firm Sands and partly thorough Meadows where we met with several narrow Dikes very well Pav'd Then we cross a rugged high Mountain and lay in a Mahumetan Barn The next day we return'd to Smyrna having finish'd our small Journey to Ephesus in five days When we told the Consuls how the Janizary had betray'd us they made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady who for his punishment put him out of the Consul's service which is an advantageous Employment For besides that the Consul's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War they are well plac'd for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them some way or other especially at good times as New-years-day and other Festivals Nor could the Janizary have been more severely punish'd for the Turks love Money above all things in the World But to return to our matter The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City near a Town call'd Pongarbachi The day of their setting out being fix'd every one provides himself for his Journey and meets the Evening before at the place appointed to be ready at the hour From Smyrna to Tocat is thirty-five days journey with the Caravan and the last time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi The first day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whose prospect was not unpleasing leaving some Villages more than a League from the Road and we lodg'd in a Park near the River Pactolus which is a small River the Sand whereof shines and is of several colours Which caus'd Antiquity to call Pactolus Golden-Sanded It falls from the Mountain Tinolus and after it has water'd the Territory of Sardis mixes with the River Hermus that throws itself into the Archipelago through the Gulf of Smyrna The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City toward the North. The next day in six hours we came to Durgout a little City in a Plain All Christians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor and pass that way once a Year pay Carrage or a Tribute of four or five Crowns but the Franks are exempt both at Durgout and over all Turkie There resides a Basha in this City and we were constrain'd to stop there a whole day because the Caravan that comes from Persia arriv'd at that time so that they were forc'd to change their Camels The third day after five hours travel in extremity of Heat we came to lodge near a paltry Village The fourth day we travel'd six hours and stop'd near to a small River In the Morning we pass'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis the Capital City of Lydia and Seat of King Croesus There were still to be seen the Ruines of a large Palace and two fair Churches with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble This City having held out six Years against the Army of Temur-leng who besieg'd it so soon as he had taken it in revenge he utterly destroy'd it There is a Village near Sardis of the same Name where stood the City which was one of the Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation The fifth day we rode for seven hours through a Country but ill manur'd and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the side of a
River The sixth day we pass'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia call'd at present Allachars which was also one of the Seven Churches of Asia There is something of Beauty still remaining in those Walls and the City is very large but ill peopl'd It is situated upon four little Hills at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking a fair Plain to the North that produces excellent Fruit. To witness its Antiquity there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater with certain Sepulchers from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Christians took out the Bodies that were buried there and transported them into Europe believing them to be the Bodies of Saints It is now all destroy'd but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Mysia and in regard it was alway very subject to Earthquakes the most part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country The last time I travel'd that way in the year 1664 the seventeenth of June the Turks were feasting and rejoycing upon the News as they said which they had receiv'd of the defeat of the Christians in Candy But the News was false and only contriv'd to encourage the People for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in those Parts We lodg'd that day after seven hours travel upon the Bank of a small River a League and a half from Philadelphia The seventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain where those Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls and Valanede which is the shell or rind of an Acorn that Curriers make use of to dress their Leather We lodg'd in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogase or The Mountain of Robbers The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the same Mountain which is a very barren Country where there is no Provision to be had We travel'd but six hours and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarrouc abaqui The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands where there is not one Village to be seen and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Copli-sou in the Plain of Inahi The tenth day after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren Country we stopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-sou the Water whereof is not good In the Night there arose a Tempest that put us all in a disorder and the Rain that fell was as cold as is it had been in the depth of Winter We were wet to the Skins and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being spoyl'd The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleasant Country between Vales adorn'd with a most delightful Verdure and we were in view as we pass'd along of certain hot Baths though very little regarded We lodg'd upon the Banks of a small River by the side whereof we had travel'd for some hours The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for six hours between the same Vallies and lodg'd by a River The thirteenth day we travel'd eight hours and stop'd near to a Village in a Country call'd Doüagasse The fourteenth after a Journey of seven hours we pass'd by the Walls of Aphiom-Carassar that is The Black City of Aphiom or Opium because it has a Prospect over a fair and large Country well cultivated where they sow great store of Poppies whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom as the Turks call it Aphiom-Carassar is a great City dirty and ill built the ancient Name whereof I could never learn for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant But according to all probability and the situation of the place it ought to be the ancient Hierapolis situated upon the Maeander a famous River of the Lesser Asia that winds and turns the most of any River in the World And indeed we are the more to seek in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own custom and pleasure and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they pass or else deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands There is to be seen in that City an ancient Castle of Free-stone upon the Point of a high Rock separated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South which make a Semicircle All the Armenian Christians Subjects to the King of Persia passing thorough Aphiom-Carassar must there pay Carage from which they are not exempted though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elsewhere The Caravan does not stop at Aphiom-Carassar as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruin'd as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fish and very cheap and they of the City bring Barley Straw and other things which the Caravan wants The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Maeander which is to be cross'd over a Bridge not far distant from a small Village In this River are great store of Crawfish and Carps and the Fishermen will be sure to attend upon the Caravan I have seen some Carps there above three Foot long The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it self some for Tocat some for the Road to Aleppo the one part taking the right-hand Road toward the Winter-East for Syria the other the left-hand Road North-East for Armenia After we were parted we travel'd two or three hours in sight of one another They that go to Aleppo fall into Tarsus where St. Paul was born and from Tarsus to Alexandretta But we continu'd our Road to Tocat and after we had cross'd a great Plain having travel'd six hours we lodg'd in a Mershy place near a small Village There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others which manifests the Charity of the Turks For in most of the high Roads that are far from Rivers they have set up Cisterns whither when the Rains fail the neighbouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers who would else be very much distress'd The sixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country but ill manur'd where we saw a little City call'd Boulavandi There are some Mosquees which the Turks have built out of the Ruines of the ancient Greek Churches from which they have taken Pillars of Marble and other pieces of Architecture to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all which you meet with very often upon the high Roads the number is the greater because they never lay two Bodies in one Grave There is also in this City an Inn cover'd with Lead which is all the Beauty of it nor do Travellers make any use of it but only in foul weather We lodg'd a League and a half from the City and staid there all the next day The seventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houses though there be excellent Pasturage about it There is
gave him fifteen days Thereupon the King did go to the Treasury next morning according to Mahomet's desire and found all things in good order having heard before what became of the Scimitar From thence he went to Mahomet's House who made the King a mean Present For it is the custom that he whom the King honours with a Visit must make a Present to his Majesty After the King had receiv'd it he walk'd up and down and view'd the Chambers Halls Parlours and Rooms of State and wonder'd to see them so ill set out with plain Felts and course Carpets whereas in other Lords Houses a man could not set his Foot upon any thing but Cloth of Gold and Silk For the King as they had set the Nazar out expected to have found other things which made him admire at so great a Moderation in so high a degree of Honour Now at the end of a Gallery there was a Door lockt with three great Padlocks Of this the King took no notice whereupon the Meter who is the White Eunuch and chief of his Chamber as he came back shew'd the King the Door that was so strongly Padlock'd which made the King curious to have it open'd withal asking Mahomet what he had got there lock'd up with so much care Oh Sir said he it behoves me to keep that lockt for there is all the Estate I have in the World All that your Majesty has seen in this House is yours but all that is in that Chamber is mine and I dare assure my self your Majesty will be so gracious as never to take it from me Those words inflam'd the King's curiosity so that he commanded the Door to be open'd But he was strangely surpriz'd when he saw nothing more within than Mahomet's Sheep-hook that lay upon two Nails his Scrip wherein he us'd to put his Victuals his Bottle for his Water his Pipe and his Shepherd's Weeds all hanging against the Wall The Nazar beholding the King's astonishment at such a Sight Sir said he when the King Sha-Abas found me in the Mountain keeping Goats then that was all I had and he took nothing from me I beseech your Majesty that you would not deprive me of these things neither but rather if you please let me resume them again and fall to my old Calling The King touch'd at so high a piece of Virtuo caus'd himself to be disapparel'd and gave his Habit to the Nazar which is the greatest Honour that the King of Persia can bestow upon a Subject Thus Mahomet continu'd and dy'd honourably in his Employment This brave Person was the Protector of all the Franks in Persia and if any one had done them wrong upon complaint he did them Justice immediately One day as I was shooting Ducks upon the River of Ispahan near the Nazar's Gardens with two Servants some of the Nazar's people that did not know me set upon me and would have taken away my Gun which I would not let go till I had broke the Stock about the Shoulders of the one and flung the Barrel at the other 's Head Thereupon I took some of the Franks along with me and complain'd to the Nazar He testifi'd his sorrow for what had happen'd and gave us evident Proofs thereof by the blows which he caus'd to be laid upon those that had done me the injury Another time Sha-Sefi being upon his return from Guilan his Tents were set up near Zulfa in Armenia where the King staid to hunt two or three days Now among the rest of the Courtizans that follow'd the Court to divertise the King with Dancing and Mummery there was one who was perfectly handsom to whom the King had already sent Presents which could not be unknown to any Lord i' the Court. But the Nazar's Son for all that being in the heat of Youth got this Courtizan to his Tent and there lay with her which came to his Father's Ears next day The Nazar whether out of his zeal to the Ring or whether it were an effect of his prudence to prevent the King's anger which would have certainly been the death of his Son caus'd him to be drub'd after the manner of the Country and bastinado'd all over till the Nails of his Toes dropt off and that his Body was almost a perfect Gelly Which when the King understood together with the Young Man's Crime he said no more but that the Nazar had done wisely by punishing his Son himself to prevent his Justice But to return to the Road from Kerman to Ispahan The first day that I set out from Kerman at my Stage in the Evening I met with a rich Moullah who seeing I had Wine civilly offer'd me some of his Ice to cool it In retaliation I gave him some of my Bottle He invited me to his House which was well built with a handsom Garden with Water in it He entertain'd me with Spoon-meat according to the mode of the Country and when I took my leave he fill'd my Boracho with very good Wine The following days I saw nothing worthy observation the Country being as I have already describ'd it Yezd lyes in the Road almost in the mid-way between Kerman and Ispahan in 93 Deg. 15 Min. of Longitude and 13 Deg. 45 Min. of Latitude It is a great Town in the middle of the Sands that extend themselves for two Leagues round it so that when you leave Yezd you must take a Guide for upon the least Wind the Sand covers the Highway whereby a man may be apt to fall into Holes which seem to have been either old Cisterns or the Ruines of ancient Buildings Between the Town and the Sands there is a little good Soil which produces excellent Fruits but above all Melons of several sorts the Pulp of some is green of others yellow and vermilion and some there are the meat whereof is as hard as a Renneting There are also very good Grapes and good Wine but the Governour will not permit the Inhabitants to make Wine Some therefore they dry and of the rest they make a kind of Confection to cat with Bread There are also abundance of Figs which are large and well tasted They distil vast quantities of Rose-water and another sort of Water with which they dye their Hands and Nails red which they squeeze out of a certain Root call'd Hina There are three Inns i' th' City and several Bazars or Market-places cover'd and vaulted which are full of Merchants and Workmens Ware-houses They also make at Yezd several Stuffs of Silk intermix'd with Gold and Silver which they call Zerbaste and another sort of Stuff of all pure Silk call'd Daraï like our smooth strip'd Taffata's Other Stuffs they make half Silk half Cotton others all of Cotton like our Fustians They make also Serges of a particular Wool which is so fine and delicate that it looks handsomer and is much better than Silk Though I had nothing to do I staid in Yezd three days because I met with
to Ispahan to have the benefit of Coynage themselves They that traffick into Guilan for Silks carry their Silver to Teflis where the Master of the Mint gives them 2 per Cent. profit for their Silver The reason is because that which he gives them for it is a little sophisticated but it passes currant all over Guilan In the third place you must observe That upon the pieces of Silver as well for the King's Duty as the Coynage of the Money there is requir'd 7½ per Cent. But upon the Copper Money not above one half or 1 per Cent. at most Whence it comes to pass that when a Workman has need of Copper rather than lose time in going to buy it he will melt down his Casbeké's There are four several pieces of Silver Coyn Abassi's Mamoudi's Shaet's and Bisti's but as for the Bisti's there are very few at present The Copper pieces of Coyn are call'd Casbeké of which there are single and double The single Casbeké is worth five Deniers and a Half-peny of our Money The double Casbeké is valu'd at eleven Deniers Four single Casbeké's or two double ones make a Bisti Ten single Casbeké's or five double ones make one Shayet in value Two Shayet's make a Mamoudi Two Mamoudi's make an Abassi The Real or Crown of France is worth three Abassi's and one Shayet and counting a Real at sixty Sous an Abassi is worth eighteen Sous six Deniers Though to say truth three Abassi's and one Shayet make three Half-pence more than the Crown Number 1 and Number 2. Are two pieces which upon one side bear the Names of the twelve Prophets of the Law of Mahomet and in the middle this Inscription La Illah allah Mahomet resoul Allah Ali Vaeli Allah on the back-side The Conquerour of the World Abas II. gives us permission to coyn this Money in the City of Cashan Num. 1. Makes five Abassi's and counting our Crown at thirteen Shayet's it comes to four Livres twelve Sous six Deniers Num. 2. Makes two Abassi's and a half of our Money or forty-six Sous and one Farthing Num. 3. Is an Abassi which comes to eighteen Sous six Deniers Num. 4. Is a Mamoudi worth nine Sous and a Farthing Num. 5. Is a Shayet worth four Sous seven Deniers one Half-peny Num. 6. A Bisti worth one Sous ten Deniers Num. 7. The Copper Coyn call'd Casbeké worth five Deniers one Half-peny These Coyns unless it be the Casbeké bear no other Inscription but only the Name of the King reigning when they were coyn'd the Name of the City where they were coyn'd with the Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet Though all Payments are made in Abassi's as well at Ormus and other parts of the Gulf belonging to the King of Persia as in the Iland of Bahren where is the great Fishery and Market for Pearls yet there is no mention made but only of Larins The Larin is describ'd in the Money of Arabia Eight Larins make an Or four and twenty make a Toman An Or is not the name of a Coyn but of a Sum in reck'ning among Merchants One Or is five Abassi's A Toman is another Sum in payment For in all Persian Payments they make use of only Tomans and Ors and though they usually say that a Toman makes fifteen Crowns in truth it comes to forty-six Livres one Peny and â
As for pieces of Gold the Merchant never carries any into Persia but Alman-Ducats Ducats of the Seventeen Provinces or of Venice and he is bound to carry them into the Mint so soon as he enters into the Kingdom but if he can cunningly hide them and sell them to particular persons he gets more by it When a Merchant goes out of the Kingdom he is oblig'd to tell what pieces of Gold he carries with him and the King's people take a Shayet at the rate of a Ducat and sometimes they value the Ducat at more But if he carry's his Gold away privately and be discover'd all his Gold is confiscated The Ducat usually is worth two Crowns which in Persia justly comes to twenty-six Shayets but there is no price fixt in that Country for Ducats For when the season is to go for the Indies or that the Caravan sets out for Mecca as well the Merchants as the Pilgrims buy up all the Ducats they can find out by reason of their lightness and then they rise to twenty-seven and twenty-eight Shayets and sometimes more a piece The end of the Roads from Paris to Ispahan through the Northern Provinces of Turky THE SECOND BOOK OF THE PERSIAN TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER Containing the several ROADS From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Capital CITY of PERSIA Through the Southern Provinces of TURKI and through the DESERTS CHAP. I. The second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan and first of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta THE Road from Constantinople to Erivan which with all those other Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkie the first time I travel'd into Persia I have amply describ'd It behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces and of those through the Deserts where there are several Emirs or Arabian Princes of which several are very potent For there are some of them that can bring 30000 Horse into the Field five of which I have had the honour to discourse and to oblige them with small Presents in recompence whereof they sent me Rice Mutton Dates and Sherbet as long as I staid among them I embark'd at Marseilles in a Holland Vessel that carry'd five and forty Guns from thence we set sail for Malta At Malta we staid twelve days to carine the Vessel and to take in fresh Victuals Among the rest we bought two thousand Quails for there are a prodigious quantity in the Iland but in two or three days we found five or six hundred of them destroy'd by the Vermin that pester'd the Ship From Malta we set sail for Larneca a good Road in the Iland of Cypras to the West of Famagosta which is not above a days journey from it by Land As we were making into the Road about two or three hours after midnight we perceiv'd a Vessel close upon us and both the Ships Company began to cry out for fear of falling foul one upon another but the Vessel sheer'd clear without any harm on either side In the morning we cast Anchor and went a-shoar It is a good half League from the Road where the Consuls and Merchants both English Hollanders and French live in a very pitiful Village However there is a little Monastery of Capuchins who officiate in the Chappel of the French Consul and another of Religious Italians that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem We staid but two days at Larneca the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himself what business they might have for him at his return it being usual to then to take in spun and unspun Cottons together with course Wool for
Mattresses From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coast of Syria we had the Wind very favourable but at length coming to prove a little contrary instead of carrying us to Alexandretta it cast us to the Northward two or three Leagues higher upon the Coast of Cilicia toward a Town call'd Païasses Half a League from that City lyes a vast Rock and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale cast up Jonas again though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Palestine All along that Coast from Alexandretta to Païasses and farther the way is so narrow and straiten'd by the Mountain that in some parts the Camels and Horses must dip their Feet in the Sea and yet you must pass that way of necessity travelling from Syria to Constantinople Between Alexandretta and Païasses it was that the Chevalier Paul in a Vessel that carry'd only three hundred Men miss'd but little of surprizing the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Constantinople which since hath never been sent by Sea for fear of the Maltesi This Knight had landed his Men and laid them in Ambuscade but unfortunately his Design was discover'd so that the Caravan that might have been easily surpriz'd stood upon their Guard We were near the Coast when we discover'd a Skiff with fifteen or sixteen Turks that were sent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Customary Present from our Captain Those Galleys then anchor'd at Païasses and had there discharg'd themselves of their Provisions of War for Bagdat which the Grand Signor was going to besiege And it is the custom that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea that whatever strange Vessel passes by them must send them a Present either willingly or by force When the Basha of the Sea who is the Admiral of the Turks is in Person at Sea the Vessel which he meets is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns so that when he sets out from Constantinople to cruise the Vessels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him There are some that will seek to escape in sight of the Galleys but it has cost them dear And it happen'd that one day the Wind slackning they boarded a Vessel of Marseilles the Captain and Notary whereof were both seiz'd and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almost bruis'd to a Gelly and they had like to have dy'd upon it without being the better in their Purses for the rudeness of the Chastisement did not excuse them from paying the Money which was demanded Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour he laugh'd at the Skiff-men bidding them be gone and telling them he had no Presents for them but Cannon-Bullets Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys who soon deliver'd us from the true fear we were in that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience For while we kept the Sea close by the Coast to observe the Countenances of the Turks they weigh'd Anchor and turn'd their Prows toward Rhodes However before they left us they sent us a Broad-side and our Captain whatever we could say sent them another which render'd us more guilty For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea or only one Squadron and that a strange Vessel is in fight she is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being hal'd for which they will otherwise make the Commander pay very severely The Consuls and Merchants of Aleppo understanding what had pass'd very much blam'd the Captain fearing a worse consequence of the business But by good fortune the miscarriage was stifl'd and never went farther The same day the Wind veering to the West-North-West we sail'd into the Road of Alexandretta where we came to an Anchor about a quarter of a League from the Land Upon the advice which they have out of Christendom so soon as they of Alexandretta discover a Vessel and know what Colours she carries the Vice-Consul of the Nation to which the Vessel belongs fails not to advertise the Consul of Aleppo by a Note which is carr'yd in four or five hours though it be more than two or three days journey on Horse-back For they tye a Note under the Wing of a Pigeon who is taught what to do and she flies directly to the place whence she was brought For more surety they usually send two that if the one should miscarry i' the dark which has many times happen'd the other may supply the defect Alexandretta is nothing else but a confus'd heap of paltry Houses inhabited by the Greeks who keep little Fudling-schools for the Mariners and others the meaner sort of the people for the Merchants lye at the Vice-Consuls of the Nation There were but two then the English Vice-Consul and the French who had each of them a very convenient dwelling However they must be Men who love Money at a strange rate that accept of those Employments For the Air like that of Ormus is generally so bad especially in the Summer in so much that they who do not dye cannot avoid very dangerous Distempers If there be any so strong that they can hold out for three or four Years and can accustom themselves to bad Air they do well to stay there for for them to betake themselves to a good Air is to hazard their Lives Mr. Philips the English Consul has been the only Person that ever liv'd two and twenty Years at Alexandretta but you must know he was a brisk merry Man and of an excellent temper of Body and yet for all that he had been forc'd to be cauteriz'd That which renders the Air so bad is the great quantity of standing Pools and Plashes in the neighbouring Plains extending to the East and South but when the great Heats begin to approach the most part of the Inhabitants retire to a Village call'd Belan upon the next Mountain to the City where there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits They come also thither from Aleppo when there is any appearance of a Pestilence and yet there are few people in this Village who are not troubl'd with a sort of Fever that makes their Eyes look yellow and hollow which they never can remedy as long as they live About half a League from Alexandretta on the right band of the High-way just against the Mersh on the other side is a Tower whereon are to be seen the Arms of Godfrey of Bulloign In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the High-way which is enclos'd between these two Mershes whose Exhalations are very noxious It is but three little days journey from Alexandretta to Aleppo and some well mounted have rid it in two The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot For before that Prohibition in regard the
which time has not defac'd From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare where every Traveller isentertain'd for his Piaster as at the other Stages Between the other Villages it is ten hours journey but between Angare and Aleppo but three We alighted at the French Consul's House at what time the Customers came presently to search our Cloak-bags after which we went to the Quaissery which is a place where all Strangers are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themselves and a quarter so much for every Servant and are well entertain'd CHAP. II. The Description of Aleppo now the Capital City of Syria A Leppo is one of the most famous Cities in all Turkie as well for the bigness and beauty of it as for the goodness of the Air and plenty of all things together with the great Trade which is driv'n there by all the Nations of the World It lyes in 71 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude and 36 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude in an excellent Soil With all the search that I could make I could never learn how it was anciently call'd Some would have it to be Hierapolis others Beroea and the Christians of the Country agree with the latter The Arabian Historians that record the taking of it call it only Aleb not mentioning any other name Whence this Observation is to be made That if the Arabians call it Aleb others Alep the reason is because the Arabians never use the Letter P in their Language This City was tak'n by the Arabians in the fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet which was about the Year of CHRIST 637 in the Reign of Heraclius Emperour of Constantinople The City is built upon four Hills and the Castle upon the highest that stands in the middle of Aleppo being supported by Arches in some places for fear the Earth should tumble and moulder away from it The Castle is large and may be about five or six hundred Paces in compass The Walls and Towers though built of Free-stone are of little defence There is but one Gate to enter into it from the South over a Draw-bridge laid over certain Arches cross a Moat about six or seven Fathom deep There is but one half of it full of Water and that a standing Puddle to boot the rest is a meer dry Ditch so that it cannot be accounted a wholsom place However there is Water brought into the Castle through a large Pipe from the Fountains in the City and there is a strong Garrison kept in it The City is above three Miles in circuit and the best half of it is unmoated that Moat there is not above three Fathom deep The Walls are very good and all of Free-stone with several square Towers distant one from the other about fourscore Paces between which there are others also that are less But these Walls are not all of them of an equal height for in some places they are not above four Fathoms from the Ground There are ten Gates to enter into the City without either Moat or Draw-Bridge under one of which there is a place that the Turks have in great veneration where they keep Lamps continually burning and report that Elisha the Prophet liv'd for some time There is no River that runs through Aleppo and but only a small one without the City which the Arabians call Coïc. However though indeed it be but properly a Rivulet yet it is very useful to water the Gardens where grows an abundance of Fruit particularly Pistaches much bigger and better tasted than those that comes from the parts near Casbin But though there be no River yet there are store of Fountains and Receptacles of Water which they bring from two places distant from the City The Edifices neither publick nor private are very handsom but only withinside the Walls are of Marble of several colours and the Cieling of Foliage Fret-work with Inscriptions in Gold'n Letters Without and within the City there are six and twenty Mosquees six or seven whereof are very magnificent with stately Duomo's three being cover'd with Lead The chiefest and largest of all was a Christian Church which they call'd Alhha or Listen'd unto which is thought to have been built by St. Helen In one part of the Suburbs also stands another Mosquee which was formerly a Christian Church In that there is one thing worthy observation In the Wall upon the right side of the Gate there is a Stone to be seen two or three Foot square wherein there is the figure of a handsom Chalice and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it with a Crescent that covers the Sacrifice the two Horns whereof descend just upon the brims of the mouth of the Chalice One would think at first that those Figures were in Mosaïc-Work but it is all Natural as I have found with several other Franks having scrap'd the Stone with an Iron Instrument when the Turks were out of the way Several Consuls would have bought it and there has been offer'd for it 2000 Crowns but the Basha's of Aleppo would never suffer it to be sold. Half a League from the City lyes a pleasant Hill where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the side of that Hill is to be seen a Cave or Grotto where the Turks report that Haly liv'd for some few days and for that there is an ill-shap'd figure of a Hand imprinted in the Rock they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly. There are three Colledges in Aleppo but very few Scholars though there be Men of Learning that belong to them who have Salaries to teach Grammar and their odd kind of Philosophy with the Grounds of their Religion which are the Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themselves The Streets of the City are all pav'd except the Bazar's where the Merchants and Handicraft-Tradesmen keep their Shops The chiefest Artists and the most numerous are Silk and Chamlet-Weavers In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns and fifty publick Baths as well for Women as for Men keeping their turns 'T is the chiefest Pastime the Women have to go to the Baths and they will spare all the Week long to carry a Collation when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themselves in those places of privacy The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopl'd for almost all the Christians have their Houses and Churches there Of which Christians there are four sorts in Aleppo I mean of Eastern Christians that is to say Greeks Armenians Jacobites or Syrians and Maronites The Greeks have an Archbishop there and are about fifteen or sixteen thousand in number their Church is dedicated to St. George The Armenians have a Bishop whom they call Vertabet and are about twelve thousand in number their Church is dedicated to the Virgin The Jacobites being about ten thousand have a Bishop also and their Church is likewise dedicated to the Virgin as is that of the Armenians
CHAP. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through Mesopotamia and Assyria which I travel'd in my third Voyage to the Indies I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the sixth of December 1643 and went to Ligorn where I found the Dutch Fleet ready to set Sail for the Levant The Vessel wherein I embark'd seeming rather a Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man We pass'd through the Channel of Messina and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City From thence passing by the Morea we enter'd into the Archipelago where the Fleet parted according as every Ship was bound Our Ship sayl'd directly for the Port of Alexandretta but though the Wind were favourable we were stop'd for some time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eastern Point of Candy We endeavour'd to have got clear of him but the Pirate gaining upon us we made ready Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broad-sides that went over the Ship without doing us any harm which we answer'd by as many from our Ship the first whereof brought his Fore-mast by the Board and the third Shot went through the Fore-castle and kill'd him some Men as far as we could discern At that very instant one of our Mariners cry'd out from the Top-mast-head A Sail from the South Thereupon the Pirate left us and made Sail after her and we glad of such an escape pursu'd our Voyage to Alexandretta where we happily arriv'd from whence I took Horse for Aleppo as I have already describ'd The sixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars Father Raphael and Father Yves and a Venetian whose name was Dominico de Sanctis From Aleppo to Bi r where you cross the Euphrates it is four days journey for the Horse Caravan The Country is well wooded and well manur'd The seventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the usual Stage so that we could not gain Telbechar another Town where there is no Inn which constrain'd us to stop a League on this side and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horse This is a Cave where the Bedouins or Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire who live after the manner of the Arabs either in Rocks or in poor Hutts The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time there being several Niches in it like little Chambers Our Caravan-Bashi fearing some Ambuscade rode thither before to view the place but finding it empty and free we rested there that night and the next night came to lye at Mezara which is only a small Village without an Inn Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. Only that near the Cave in the Mountain there is very good Water And formerly upon the Mountain stood a Castle of which some ruines are still remaining From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Prospect as far as you can see over very fair Plains on every side and in several places very good Land water'd by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates All the Rivolets also that you cross from Aleppo to Bi r come from the same River The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo being the ninth of March we came to the banks of Euphrates Bi r is on the other side of the River and because that sometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day there is a fair and large Inn to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins which would else disturb and rob them were not they and their Goods in that manner secur'd You cross the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats and as soon as you are got over the other side of the River the Customer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong The Caravan does not lye in the Town which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain but passes forward over a scurvy Road to an Inn upon the top of the Mountain Near the Inn there are several Chambers cut out of the Rock where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forc'd to lye That Evening the Custom-Officer comes to receive his duties being two Piasters upon every load of Goods whether upon Horse or Mule though the Mules carry more than the Horses and half a Piaster for every Beast that carries Provisions But for Saddle Horses or Mules there is nothing demanded The Bi r or Berygeon as the Natives call it is a large City for an Eastern City scituated upon the brow of a Hill Below upon the River stands a Castle that declares its Antiquity it is half as long as the City but narrow and without any other Fortification saving only a Tower that scours the River in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins In the highest part of the Town stands another Castle where the Governour resides who is an Aga whom some call a Basha having under him two hundred Janizaries and four hundred Spahi's The City is ill built as are the most part of the Cities of Turkie But there are an extraordinary plenty of all things excellent Bread good Wine and great store of the best sort of Fish The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the first Lands of Mesopotamia that lyes between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tigre which at present they call Diarbek we came in the evening to Sharmely This is a very good Town with a fair Inn and Baths round about it About twice Musquet-Shot from thence stands a Mountain alone by it self like Montmartre near Paris Round about it are Plains and at the top of it stands a Fortress with a Garrison of two hundred Spahi's by reason that the Arabs sometimes cross Euphrates and make incursions upon that side In the year 1631 the Grand Vizier returning from Bagdat where he had lost the greatest part of the Grand Signor's Army not being able to take the City fearing the loss of his head if he return'd to Constantinople and knowing himself to be in great esteem among the Souldiers resolv'd to quarter himself upon this Mountain and to erect a Fortress to secure himself from the tempest that threaten'd him No doubt but'l if he could have brought about his design he might have made himself Master of all Mesopotamia and would have put the Grand Signor to a great deal of trouble For if you intend for Aleppo whither it be from Tauris Mossul or Bagdat unless you travel thorough the Desert you must pass through Sharmely under the command of this Fortress for Provision and Waters sake The work was gone so far forward that there was a good defence rais'd and the Vizier had already enclos'd all the Mountain together with the Inn with a Wall almost twenty foot thick and three fathom high when he was strangl'd by those in whom he most confided the Grand Signor having gain'd them either by
threats or by rewards The eleventh after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa where the Caravan usually stays eight or ten days for here it is that they live that hire the Horses and the Mules who have always some business in this place We lay at an Inn three or four hundred paces distant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full the rest retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand and are very good quarters Here the Toll-gatherer presently comes and counts the Bales without op'ning them They that carry any Sacks must pay for half a Load if not he op'ns the Sack to see if there be any Merchandise therein for then the Merchant must pay the whole duty Ourfa is the Capital City of Mesopotamia built as they say in the same place where Abraham liv'd and where stood the ancient Edessa where the people of the Country report that King Abagarus generally kept his Court. There are still to be seen the ruines of a Castle from whence they add that the same King sent to CHRIST for his Picture and offer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend him against the Jews whom he understood to be his Enemies The Chronicles of the Armenians report that Abagarus was their Country-man and that in his Reign they began to be Christians and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apostle whom CHRIST sent to that Prince after his Resurrection * Neither is this Castle yet so far ruin'd but that there is still to be seen a spacious Hall and three or four handsom Rooms with some relicks of Mosaick work I was curious to see what ever was remarkable in this City And first they led me to a large Fountain which resembles a Fish-pond the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Mosquèe which was built in the honour of Abraham The Christians of the Country say that it was in that place where he pray'd before he went about to Sacrifice his Son Isaac and that two Springs of Water arose from the two places where he rested his knees which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of It is pav'd with Free-stone and so full of fish that if you throw them in a little Bread they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the side of the Pond There is no medling with them for the Turks have a great veneration for those Fish which they call Abraham's Fish Besides that the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns it self to water all the City is cover'd with very fair Carpets for about twenty paces in bredth This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls As for the Grotto where the two Springs rise there is no going into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes and it is a great favour for a Christian to see it such a favour as cost me six Piasters I also saw the Church under the portal whereof they say St. Alexis liv'd seventeen years a private life It stands in the middle of a Church-yard in the highest part of the Town in the possession of the Armenians But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City built by St. Ephren who is there buried The Monastery stands yet entire enclos'd with fair Walls In the Church I saw a large Bible in Armenian Characters The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain to which there also belongs a Chappel where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain where are to be seen very ancient Sepulchers of the Christians The City of Ourfa is seated in a good soil very well manur'd which extends it self out of sight toward the East There are several pleasant Gardens near the walls water'd by little Channels brought thither by Art The soil produces good Wine so that a man may live as well at Ourfa as in any part of Turkie While I stay'd there I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in those Gardens and indeed there is great store of wild Fowl all the Country over The Walls of the City are of Freestone with Battlements and Towers but within the houses are small ill built and ruinous And there are several void spaces in the City which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Desert than a Metropolis The City is Govern'd by a Basha who has under him a hundred and fifty Janizaries and six hundred Spahi's standing more in need of Cavalry than Infantry by reason of the Incursions of the Arabians especially in Harvest time In short Ourfa is the place were they dress such great quantities of Cordovan Skins by reason of the waters particular to the Country which give them that peculiar beauty The Yellow Skins are drest at Ourfa the Blew at Tocat and the red Rat Diarbequir The twentieth of March we set out of Ourfa and after a Journey of six hours we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was fal'n all to decay There is a Fountain of excellent water by it which is all the convenience of the place for there is no Provision to be had The twenty-first we travel'd nine hours and came to lye near several Caverns which are very deep at the entry whereof there are little Rooms which are suppos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel thereabouts There is also Rain-Water to be had in some of the Concavities of the Rock Half this days journey you must pass over Rocks where it is almost impossible and very dangerous to keep your Horses back The twenty-second having travel'd eleven hours we lodg'd near a Cavern having forded a River that runs at the foot of it There are two great Grotto's on each side where Travellers take up their Quarters and whither the Natives of the Country bring Provisions both for Horse and Man The Toll-gatherers coming from a Fort about three Leagues distant from these Caverns here exact two Piasters and a half for every Horse and Mules Load and search your Sacks to see if there be no Merchantable Goods therein About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deserted by the Inhabitants and about an hours march after that with Tombs of Stone in the middle whereof stands a Cross with Armenian Characters The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours and lay at Dadacardin This appears to have been a great Town but is all ruin'd nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone-Bridge very well built under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks yet they bring to the Travellers Hens Butter Cheese and other Provisions which they sell very cheap The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours and lay at a place call'd Cara built upon a Hill The Caravan lay
Merchants that were to go along with the Caravan The way which we took was not the usual Road to Persia but it was a way wherein there were less Duties to be paid and besides it was a short cut the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Ispahan From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that Evening we saw nothing but continu'd Ruines which makes me believe it was the place where the ancient Nineveh stood We stay'd two days near the Mosquée where according to the tradition of the Turks Jonas was bury'd and made choice of a Curd or Assyrian for our Caravan-Basbi though the people are generally Thieves and must be carefully look'd after But it was a piece of Policy because we were to cross the ancient Assyria now call'd Curdistan the Language of which Country is a particular Speech In the two first days Journey we cross'd two small Rivers that fall from the Mountains and empty themselves into Tigris Our first Journey was through a plain Country all along by the side of a little River and the second Evening we lodg'd by the side of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North and running to the South discharges it self into Tigris It is call'd Bohrus being a very rapid Stream full of Fish but more especially excellent Trouts The Caravan was two days passing that River by reason there were no Boats For the people are forc'd to tye long Perches four or five together one upon another which the Natives call a Kilet They make it four-square and put underneath it about a hundred Goat-Skins full of wind to the end the Kilet may not touch the water Besides the Merchant must be careful to spread good store of thick Felts over the Kilet of which he must be provided to keep off the Water least the Bales that sink the Kilet should take wet At the four corners are four Perches that serve for Oars though they avail but little against the force of the Tide so that you must be forc'd to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a' this side up the River and then row down the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods When the Goods are Landed the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main strength out of the water to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appointed to carry them As for the Horses Mules and Asses as well those that carri'd the Goods as those upon which the Men ride so soon as the Herds-men thereabout see a Caravan coming they stock to the River-side Those people that wear nothing but a course piece of Linnen or a Goat-skin to cover their nakedness take off their Cloaths and wind them about their Heads like a Turbant Then every one tyes a Goat-skin blow'd up under his Stomach and then two or three of the most expert mounting the same number of the best Horses which are bridl'd put themselves first into the Water while others follow them swimming and drive the Horses before them holding the Beast by the Tayl with one Hand and switching him with the other If they find any Horse or Ass that is too weak they tye a Goat-skin under his Belly to help him Considering which difficulties it cannot take up less time than I have mention'd to get over a Caravan of five or six hundred Horses The Caravan being thus got over for two or three days has but a very bad Road. The first days journey the Horses were continually in the Water up to the mid-leg and the second and part of the third we travel'd through a very desert Country where we met with very little food for our Horses and only a few Brakes to boyl our Rice Having got over this bad way we came to a River call'd the great Zarbe over which we pass'd upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches They report that this Bridge was built by Alexander the Great in his March against Darius A quarter of a League to the South-East two Rivers meet which empty themselves into Tigris Leaving the Bridge we came to a Town call'd Sherazoul built upon a rising Ground upon three Redoubts There resides a Basha who must be brib'd with a small Present to let the Caravan pass we lay by the Banks of a River and staid there two days From thence we travel'd one days journey over dry Mountains not finding any Water But the next day we came into a pleasant Plain stor'd with Fruit-trees This was the Plain of Arbele where Alexander defeated Darius containing about fifteen Leagues in all It is water'd with several Rivulets and in the middle of the Mountain rises a little Hill about half a League in circuit It is all over cover'd with the fairest Oaks that ever were seen and on the top are the Ruines of a Castle that seems to have been a sumptuous Structure The Country-people say that Darius staid there while his Captains gave Battel to Alexander Three Leagues from thence near a great Mountain toward the North are to be seen the Ruines of another Castle and several Houses where they add that Darius secur'd some of his Wives when he lost the Battel This Castle is seated in a most lovely Prospect At the foot of the Mountain rises a Spring which a quarter of a League off swells into a River that bears good big Boats It runs winding about the Mountains to the Southward so that two days journey from the Hill you cross it near a Town call'd Sherazoul over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches whereof the Great Sha-Abas caus'd three to be brok'n down after he had tak'n Bagdat This City of Sherazoul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities in those parts being all cut out of a steep Rock for a quarter of a League together so that you must go up to the Houses by Stairs of fifteen or twenty steps sometimes more sometimes less according to the situation of the place The people have no other Doors to their Houses than only a thin round Stone like a Mill-stone which they will roll away when they go in or out the sides of the Wall being so cut as to receive the Stone like a Case being level with the Rock The tops of their Houses are like Niches in the Mountain where the Inhabitants have contriv'd Caves to keep their Cattel in So that we judg'd it to be built for a place of safety to secure the Inhabitants from the Incursions of the Arabians and Bedouins of Mesopotamia We came to Sherazoul upon Easter-Eve and staid there three days to refresh our selves after a Lent which we had kept very sparingly Here I found certain Springs that rose up in large Bubbles which after I had mix'd with two Glasses of Wine and drank up I found to have a Purgative quality having a kind of Mineral tast These Springs boyl up near the side of
and came to lye at a Town call'd Tegrit upon Mesopotamia side There belongs to the Town a Castle half ruin'd and yet there are still some handsom Chambers to be seen Upon the North and East the River serves for a Moat but upon the West and South it has a deep Artificial one pav'd with Free-stone The Arabians say that formerly it was the strongest place in all Mesopotamia though it be commanded by two Hills not far from it The Christians dwelt half a League from the City where the Ruines of a Church and part of a Steeple are still to be seen whereby it appears to have been a considerable Pile of Building The twenty-first after we had row'd three hours we met with a Town upon Assyria side which was call'd Amet-el-tour from the name of a person that lyes inter'd in a Monastery whom the people account to be a Saint Therefore is it a place of great Devotion among them so that great numbers of Votaries go thither in private That day we were twelve hours upon the Water and lay upon the Banks of the River The twenty-second having been upon the Water two hours we met with a great Channel cut out of Tigris to water the Lands which runs up as far as just over-against Bagdat and there falls into the Tigris again Coming thither we landed upon Chaldea side by reason that there were certain Turks with us who would of necessity perform their Devotions at a place call'd Samà tra In the same there is a Mosquee not above half a League from the River to which many Mahometans pay their Devoirs especially Indians and Tartars who believe forty of their Prophets to be buried there When they knew us to be Christians they would not permit us no not for Money to set our Feet in it About five hundred Paces from the Mosquee stands a Tower very ingeniously built There are two Stair-cases without that belong to it made twirling like a Periwinkle-shell one of which Stair-cases was built deeper into the Tower than the other I would have taken better notice of it could I have been permitted to have come nearer it Only I observ'd that it was made of Brick and that it seems to be very ancient Half a League from thence appear three great Portals that look as if they had been the Gates of some great Palace And indeed it is not improbable but that there was some great City thereabouts for for three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be seen but Ruines We were twelve hours that day upon the Water and lay upon the Banks of Tigris according to custom The twenty-third we were twenty hours upon the Water and all the day long we saw nothing upon either side of the River but pitiful Hutts made of the Branches of Palm-trees where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels by means whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds We also met that day with a River call'd Odoine that falls into Tigris upon the side of the ancient Chaldea The twenty-fourth we were twenty-two hours upon the Water together never stirring off from the Kilet The reason is because the Merchants having tak'n out of the Kilet all their Money and the best part of their Merchandizes give them to the Country-people who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat whither they go to sell their own Commodities which the Merchants do to avoid the payment of Five in the Hundred in the City I trusted them also with several things of which they gave me a very good account as they did to others being contented with a small matter for their pains The twenty-fifth about four of the Clock in the Morning we arriv'd at Bagdat which is as usually call'd Babylon They open the Gates by six and then the Customers come to take an account of the Merchandize and to search the Merchants themselves If they find nothing about 'em they let the Merchants go but if they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay they carry the persons to the Custom-House where they write down the quantity of the Goods and let them go All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither also which the Merchant fetches away again in two or three days paying the Custom All which is done in very great order without any noise or disturbance in the least Though Bagdat usually bear the name of Babylon yet it is at a great distance from the ancient Babylon whereof in due place But now for Bagdat as it stands at this day Bagdat is a City seated upon the River of Tigris on the Coast of Persia and separated from Mesopotamia by the same River It lyes in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Elevation The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Califfs nam'd Almansour in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145 and of Christianity 762 or thereabouts They call it Dar-al-sani that is the House of Peace Some say it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that stood in a Meadow where the City now stands whence it was call'd Bagdat or a Garden bequeath'd About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn the Work-men found a Body entire habited like a Bishop with a Censor and Incense by him And in the same place several Cells of Religious Houses shew'd themselves which makes it very probable that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monastery with several Houses where the Christians inhabited The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long and sev'n or eight hundred broad and cannot possibly be above three Miles in circuit The Walls are of Brick and terrass'd in some places with large Towers like Bastions Upon all these Towers there are mounted about sixty pieces of Cannon the biggest whereof carries not above a five or six Pound Ball. The Moats are wide and about five or six Fathom deep There are not above four Gates three upon the Land-side and one upon the River which you must cross over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats distant one from the other about the bredth of one Boat The Castle is in the City near to one of the Gates call'd El-Maazan upon the North side It is partly built upon the River encompass'd only with a single Wall terrass'd in some places and adorn'd with little Towers upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon but without Carriages The Moat is narrow and not above two or three Fathom deep neither is there any Draw-Bridge before the Gate The Garrison consists of three hundred Janizaries commanded by an Aga. The City is govern'd by a Basha who is generally a Vizier His House is upon the side of the River making a fair shew and he has alway ready at command six or sev'n hundred Horse There is also an Aga that commands three or four hundred Spahi's They have besides another sort of Cavalry which is call'd Ginguliler that is to say Men of Courage commanded by two Aga's
Husband is oblig'd to lye with his lawful Wife upon Thursday-night or Fryday-night upon Wednesday-morning the Women go to the ââths where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a sweet Water They may go abroad sometimes at other seasons when their Husbands give them leave to visit their Kindred but then they are to be wrapt up from Head to Foot that it is impossible for their Husbands themselves to know them if they meet 'em i' the Streets By the way take notice that the Persian Women unless they be such as are very poor would rather stay within all the days of their Lives than go abroad without a Horse And it is a certain sign to know a Curtisan from an honest Woman for that the Curtisans put their Feet in the Stirup and the honest Women only in the Stirup-leathers The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited after their fashions but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their Necks and Wrists for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces and will bore holes in their Ears to put in a Ring The Arabian Women only bore the separation between the two Nostrils where they wear hollow Rings as well to spare cost as for lightness for some are so big that you may almost thrust your Fist through them Beyond all this the more to beautifie themselves they make a round Ring about their Eyes with a certain sort of Blacking And as well Men as Women in the Desert put the same near their Eyes to preserve them as they say from the heat of the Sun Of Christians there are three sorts Nestorians who have a Church Armenians and Jacobites who have none but go to the Capuchins who administer the Sacraments to them The Christians go in Devotion to a Chappel about a short quarter of a League from the City dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias paying a small Fee for admission to the Turks who keep the Keys Two days journey from the City stands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village where they say that St. Simon and St. Jude were both Martyr'd and Buried If a Christian dyes all the rest come to his Burial and returning home find a Supper prepar'd to welcom them the next day they return to the Grave and pray for the deceas'd and the third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers Sometimes there will be a hundred and fifty persons at a Burial They repeat the same Ceremonies for the seventh fifteenth thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards having a great veneration for the Dead for whom they pray too often This custom of Feasting is very inconvenient for the Poor for they being desirous to imitate the Rich run themselves sometimes so far in Debt that they are forc'd to sell their Children to the Turks to discharge themselves There are several Jews also in Bagdat but more that come every year in Devotion to visit the Sepulcher of the Prophet Ezekiel which is a day and a halfs journey from the City In short since the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amurat the number of Inhabitants cannot be less than fifteen thousand Souls which shews that the City is not peopl'd according to its bigness About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Mesopotamia at distance almost equal between Tigris and Euphrates there appears a vast Heap of Earth which the people call to this day Nemrod It stands in the midst of a wide Plain and may be discover'd a great way off The vulgar sort believe it to be the Remains of the Tower of Babel but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion who call it Agartouf and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince who always kept a Beacon at the top to assemble his Subjects together in time of War This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit but it is not easie to guess at the ancient height the rest being fal'n to ruine but only eighteen or twenty Fathom It is built of Brick dry'd in the Sun every Brick being ten Inches square and three thick The Building is thus rais'd Upon every row of Canes or Reeds bruis'd to pieces and mix'd with Wheat-straw and spred an Inch and a half thick lye seven orders of these Bricks with a little Straw between each then another Bed of Reeds and six rows of Bricks then a third with five rows decreasing in that manner 'till you come to the top The form of it seems to have been rather square than round and in the highest part of that which remains there appears a Hole like a Window if it were not rather an Out-let for Water or a Hole for the Scaffolding In short according to the Description of Moses there is no likelihood that this should be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Babel The Plane of the City of Bagdat which is to be compass'd as well by Land as by Water in two Hours A. The Ground-Plot B. The Fortress C. The Gate call'd Maazan-capl D. The New Bulwark E. The Port where the Grand Signor erected his first Batt'ry Anno 1638. F. The Old Bulwark G. The Gate in the Wall H. The Old Bulwark I. The Place where Amurat rais'd his second Batt'ry when he made the Breach and took the City K. The Gate in the Wall L. The Old Bulwark M. The Old Bulwark N. Cara capi or the Black Gate O. The Old Bulwark P. Sou-capi or the Water-Gate CHAP. VIII A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John THE fifteenth of March we hir'd a Bark from Bagdat to Balsara And we observ'd that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides it self into two Arms the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea the other keeps its course toward the Point of Mesopotamia these two Arms making a large Iland cross'd by several small Channels When we came to the place where Tigris divides it self we beheld as it were the compass of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit There are some of the Walls yet standing upon which six Coaches may go a-brest They are made of burnt Brick every Brick being ten Foot square and three thick The Chronicles of the Country say that these were the Ruines of the ancient Babylon We follow'd that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coast of Chaldea for fear of falling into the hands of the Arabs who were then at War with the Basha of Babylon denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signor We were ten days upon the Water in our passage from Bagdat to Balsara and lay every night upon the Water dressing our Victuals in the Bark For when we came to any Villages we sent our Servants a-shoar to buy Provisions which we had very cheap Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were these Amurat where there stood a Fort of Brick bak'd in the Sun Mansoury a
are a great number of Boys and Servants to guide the Ships of the Sun and Moon Besides they have the Picture of a Barque which they say belong'd to the Angel Becan whom God sends to visit the Sun and Moon to see whither they move right or no and keep close to their duty In reference to the other World and life to come they believe there is no other World but where Angels and Devils the Souls of good and bad reside That in that World there are Cities Houses and Churches and that the Evil Spirits have also Churches where they pray singing and rejoycing upon Instruments and Feasting as in this World That when any one lies at the point of death three hundred and sixty Demons come and carry his Soul to a place full of Serpents Dogs Lyons Tygres and Devils who if it be the Soul of a wicked man tear it in pieces but being the Soul of a just man it creeps under the bellies of those Creatures into the presence of God who sits in his seat of Majesty to judge the World That there are Angels also that weigh the Souls of Men in a Ballance who being thought worthy are admitted immediately into Glory That the Angels and Devils are Male and Female and beget Children That the Angel Gabriel is the Son of God engender'd upon Light and that he has a Daughter call'd Souret who has two Sons That the Angel Gabriel has several Legions of Demons under him who are instead of Souldiers and others that are his Officers of justice whom he sends from Town to Town and from City to City to punish the wicked In reference to Saints they hold that Christ left twelve Apostles to Preach to the Nations That the Virgin Mary is not dead but that she lives somewhere in the World though there be no person that can tell where she is That next to her St. John is the chiefest Saint in Heaven and next to them Zacharias and Elizabeth of whom they recompt several miracles and Apocryphal tales For they believe that they two begat St. John only by embracing that when he came to be of age they Marry'd him and that he had four Sons which he begat upon the waters of Jordan That when St. John desir'd a Son he pray'd to God who drew him one out of the water so that St. John had no more to do with his Wife but only to give her the Child to bring up That he dy'd a natural death but that he commanded his Disciples to Crucifie him after his death that he might be like Christ. Lastly that he dy'd in the City of Fuster and that he was bury'd in a Chrystal Tomb brought by miracle to the City and that this Sepulchre was in a certain House near the River Jordan They highly honour the Cross and sign themselves with it but they are very careful of letting the Turks observe them and during their Ceremonies they set a Watch at their Church doors for fear the Turks should enter and lay some unjust Fine upon them When they have ador'd the Cross they take it in two pieces which they never put together again 'till their Service rebegins The reason why they so adore the Cross is drawn out of a Book which they have Entitul'd The Divan Where it is written that every day early in the Morning the Angels take the Cross and put it in the middle of the Sun which receives his light from it as the Moon also doth hers They add that in the same Book are Pictur'd two Ships one of which is nam'd the Sun the other the Moon and thaâ in every one of these Ships there is a Cross full of Bells And moreover that if there were not a Cross in those two Ships the Sun and Moon would be depriv'd of Light and the Ships would suffer Shipwrack Their chief Festivals are three The one in Winter that lasts three days in memory of our first Parent and the Creation of the World The other in the Month of August that also lasts three days which is call'd the Feast of St. John The third which lasts five days in June during which time they are all re-baptiz'd They observe Sunday doing no work upon that day They neither Fast nor do any penance They have no Canonical Books but a great number of others that treat of nothing but Witchcraft in which they believe their Priests to be very crafty and that the Devils are at their beck They hold all Women to be unclean and that it is not at all available for them to come to the Church They have one Ceremony which they call the Ceremony of the Hen of which they make great Accompt which is not lawful for any to perform but a Priest Born of a Virgin at the time of her Marriage When a hen is to be kill'd the Priest puts off his ordinary habit and puts on a Linnen Cloth girding his waste with a second and throwing a third about his shoulders like a Stole Then he takes the Fowl and plunges it in the water to make it clean after which he turns toward the East and cuts off the head holding the Body in his hand 'till it has bled out all the blood While the Hen bleeds with his Eyes lifted up to Heaven as if he were in an extasie he repeats in his own Language these words following In the name of God may this flesh be profitable to all that eat of it They observe the same ceremony when they kill Sheep For first they cleanse the place very carefully where the Sheep is to be kill'd washing it with water and strewing it with boughs nor is the number of people small that assists at this Ceremony as if it were at some solemn Sacrifice If you ask them why it is not lawful for the Laity to kill Fowls They answer that it is no more lawful for them to kill than to consecrate them and that is all the reason which they bring They eat of nothing drest by the Turks and if a Turk ask them for drink so soon as he has drank they break the Cup. And to make the Turks more hateful they Picture Mahomet like a great Gyant shut up in Prison in Hell with four more of his Parents and they say that all the Turks are carry'd into the same place full of wild Beasts to be there devour'd They pretend all to Salvation For say they after the Angel Gabriel had fram'd the World by the command of God he thus discours'd him Lord God said he behold I have built the World as thou didst command me It has put me to a great deal of trouble and my Brethren also to raise such high Mountains that seem to sustain Heaven And who indeed was able to make way for Rivers through Mountains without vast labour and to give every thing its proper place Moreover great God by the aid of thy powerfull Arm we have brought the World to so much perfection that
under the Jurisdiction of a Bey Having past the Tigris all the Country between that and Tauris is almost equally divided between Hills and Plains the Hills are cover'd with Oaks that bear Galls and some Acoms withal The Plains are planted with Tobacco which is transported into Turkie for which they have a very great Trade One would think the Country were poor seeing nothing but Galls and Tobacco but there is no Country in the World where there is more Gold or Silver laid out and where they are more nice in taking Money that is in the least defective either in weight or goodness of Metal For Galls being a general Commodity for Dying and no where to be found so good as there bring a vast Trade to the Country wherein there are no Villages yet it is over-spread with Houses a Musquet-shot one from another and every Inhabitant has his quarter of his Vineyard by himself where they dry their Grapes for they make no Wine From Geziré to Amadié days 2 Amadié is a good City to which the Natives of a great part of Assyria bring their Tobacco and Gall-nuts It is seated upon a high Mountain to the top whereof you cannot get in less than an hour Toward the middle of the Rock three or four large Springs fall down from the Cliffs where the Inhabitants are forc'd to water their Cattel and fill their Borachio's every morning there being no Water in the City It is of an indifferent bigness and in the middle is a large Piazza where all sorts of Merchants keep their Shops It is under the Command of a Bey that is able to raise eight or ten thousand Horse and more Foot than any other of the Beys by reason his Country is so populous From Amadié to Giousmark days 4 From Giousmark to Alback days 3 From Alback to Salmastre days 3 Salmastre is a pleasant City upon the Frontiers of the Assyrians and Medes and the first on that side in the Territories of the Persian King The Caravan never lyes there because it would be above a League out of the way but when the Caravan is lodg'd two or three of the principal Merchants with the Caravan-Bashi according to custom go to wait upon the Kan The Kan is so glad that the Caravan takes that Road that he presents the Caravan-Bashi and those that go with him with the Garment of Honour or the Calaat the Bonnet and Girdle which is the greatest Honour that the King or his Governour can do to Strangers From Salamastre to Tauris days 4 In all thirty-two days journey this way from Aleppo to Tauris But though this be the shortest cut and where they pay least Customs yet the Merchants dare hardly venture for fear of being ill us'd by the Beys Teren whose Capital City the Persians call Cherijar is a Province between Mazandran and the ancient Region of the Persians known at this day by the name of Hierac to the South-East of Ispahan 'T is one of the most temperate Countries that has nothing in it of the contagious Air of Guilan where the King goes for the purity of the Air and for his sport of Hunting besides that it produceth excellent Fruits in many places The Capital City whereof which some call by the name of the Province is of a moderate compass but there is nothing worthy observation in it only a League from it are to be seen the Ruines of a great City which had been two Leagues in Circuit There were abundance of Towers all of burnt Brick and Pieces of the Wall standing There were also several Letters in the Stones which were cemented into the Walls but neither Turks Persians nor Arabians could understand them The City is round seated upon a high Hill at the top whereof stood the Ruines of a Castle which the Natives say was the Residence of the Kings of Persia. CHAP. V. The Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through the small Desert and through Kengavar I Will describe this Road as if I were to return from Ispahan to Aleppo This Road lies through Kengavar Bagdat and Anna where you enter into the Desert which I call The little Desert because you get over it in far less time than the great Desert that extends Southwards to Arabia the Happy and where you may often find Water all the whole Journey being not far distant from the River Euphrates A man that is well mounted may ride this way from Ispahan to Aleppo in three and thirty days as I have done and perhaps in less if the Arabian whom you take for your guide at Bagdat knows the shortest cut through the Wilderness The Horse Caravans travelling from Ispahan to Kengavar are fourteen or fifteen days upon the Road but being well mounted ten or twelve in a Company you may Ride it in five or six days The Country through which you travel is very fertile in Corn and Rice it produces also excellent Fruits and good Wine especially about Kengavar which is a large Town and well peopl'd From Kengavar to Bagdat I was ten days upon the Road. The Country is not so fertile but very stony in some parts And it consists in Plains and small Hills there being not a Mountain in all the Road. Now for a man that travels quick the Road lies thus From Ispahan to Consar From Consar to Comba From Comba to Oranguié From Oranguié to Nahoüand From Nahoüand to Kengavar Fron Kengavar to Sahana From Sahana to Polisha or the Bridge-Royal being a great Stone Bridge From Polisha to Maidacht From Maidacht to Erounabad From Erounabad to Conaguy From Conaguy to Caslisciren From Caslisciren to Iengui-Conaguy From Iengui-Conaguy to Casered From Casered to Charaban From Charaban to Bourous From Bourous to Bagdat There are some who instead of passing through Kengavar take Amadan one of the most considerable Cities of Persia in their way and so from thence to Toucheré but the way is longer and according to the Road which I have set down you are to leave Amadan to the North upon the right hand Between Sahana and Polisha you leave the only high Mountain in all the Road to the North. It is as steep and as straight as a Wall and as high as you can see you may observe the Figures of men clad like Priests with Surplices and Censors in their hands and yet neither can the Natives tell you nor any person imagin the meaning of those Sculptures At the foot of the Rock runs a River over which there is a Bridge of Stone About a days journey beyond the Mountain you meet with a little City whose situation the Streams that water it the good Fruits that grow there and particularly the excellent Wine which it affords render a most pleasant Mansion The Persians believe that Alexander when he return'd from Babylon dy'd in this place what-ever others have writt'n that he dy'd at Babylon All the rest of the Country from this City to Bagdat is a Country of Dates
arriv'd upon Easter-eve and as we enter'd into the City the great Guns went off round the City in honour of the Resurrection At Rome we all separated according as our Business led us CHAP. VI. Another Road from Constantinople to Ispahan by the Euxin or Black Sea with some Remarks upon the principal Cities thereabouts THere are three Roads yet remaining leading out of Europe into Persia or the Indies That of Constantinople all along the Coasts of the Black Sea that of Warsovia crossing the same Sea at Trebisond and that of Mosco down the Volga which has been amply describ'd by Olearius Secretary to the Embassy of the Duke of Holstein In this and the next Chapter I shall describe the Way from Constantinople all along the Black Sea and that from Warsovia not knowing any person that has hitherto mention'd any thing upon this subject And first of all I will give a short Description of the principal Places that lye upon that Sea as well upon the side of Europe as of Asia with the just distances of one Place from another The principal Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coast of Europe From Constantinople to Varna they count it two hundred Miles four of which make an Alman League miles 200 From Varna to Balshinké miles 36 From Belshinké to Bengali miles 70 From Bengali to Constance miles 60 From Constance to Queli miles 25 Near to this City of Queli the great Arm of Danow throws it self into the Black Sea Here is the grand Fishery for Sturgeon From Queli to Aquerman miles 50 The City of Aquerman belongs to a Kan of the lesser Tartary but it is not the place of his residence for he keeps his Court at Basha-Serrail twenty-five miles up in the Land From Aquerman to Kefet or Kaffa miles 350 This is a great City and a place of great Trade wherein there are above a thousand Families of the Armenians and about five hundred Greeks They have every one their Bishop and several Churches St. Peter's is the biggest very large and very beautiful but it falls to decay because the Christians have not Wealth enough to repair it Every Christian aboue fifteen years of age pays a Piaster and a half tribute to the Grand Signor who is Lord of the City and he sends a Bashae that lives in the ancient City call'd Frink-Hessar However the Kan of the Lesser Tartary extends his Jurisdiction as far as the Gates of Kaffa From Kaffa to Assaque miles 70 Assaque is the last City in Europe belonging also to the Grand Signor By it runs a great River of the same name the other side being in the Territories of the Duke of Muscovy Down this River come the Cossacks that do so much mischief to the Turks For sometimes they come with threescore or fourscore Gelia's which are a kind of Brigantines the bigger sort of which carry a hundred and fifty men the less a hundred Sometimes they divide themselves into two parts one of which makes Havock toward Constantinople the other Ravages the Coast of Asia as far as Trebizond The Coast of Europe bord'ring upon the Black Sea is 861 miles in length The chief Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coast of Asia which is 1170 miles in length From Constantinople to Neapoli miles 250 In this City are made the greatest part of the Galleys and Vessels that belong to the Grand Signor From Neapoli to Sinabe miles 250 From Sinabe to Ouma miles 240 From Ouma to Kerason miles 150 From Kerason to Trebisond miles 80 From Trebisond to Rise miles 100 From Rise to Guni miles 100 The City of Guni belongs half to the Grand Signor and half to the King of Mengrelia with whom he keeps a good Correspondence because the greatest part of the Steel and Iron that is spent in Turkie comes out of Mengrelia through the Black Sea The only good Ports upon the Black Sea from Constantinople to Mengrelia are Quitros Sinabe or Sinope Onnye Samsom Trebisond Gommé The Haven of Quitros is very deep and the Vessels lie shelter'd from the winds but the entrance into it is very bad which only the Pilots of the place or they who have often accustom'd themselves to that Trade can only find out It seems that anciently there had been most stately Buildings round about the Port and several noble Pillars are to be seen all along the shore not to speak of those which have been Transported to Constantinople Near the City toward the South stands a high Mountain whence there flows good store of excellent Water which at the bottom gathers into one Fountain To go from Constantinople for Persia by Sea you must embark at Constantinople for Trebisond and many times for Rise or Guni which are more to the North. They that Land at Trebisond go directly to Erzerom which is not above five days Journey off and from Erzerom to Erivan or Tunis But there are few that will venture upon this Sea where there is no good Anchorage besides that it is subject to prodigious Tempests from which there are very few good Ports to defend them which is the reason it is call'd Cara-denguis or the Black Sea The Eastern people giving to all things mischievous and dangerous the Epithet of Black They that are Bound for Rise or Guni go to Testis the Capital City of Giorgia and thence to Erivan for though the way be bad yet it is far better and smoother than the Road to Tauris The principal places from Teflis to Erivan are these together with their respective distances From Teflis to Soganlouk leagues 3 From Soganlouk to Senouk-kupri leagues 7 From Senouk-kupri to Guilkac leagues 7 From Guilkac to Daksou leagues 6 From Dakson to Achikent leagues 6 From Achikent to Dillou leagues 6 From Dillou to Yazegi leagues 6 From Yazegi to Bicheni leagues 4 From Bicheni to Erivan leagues 2 From Erivan you keep the ordinary Road to Tauris CHAP. VII The Road from Warsow to Ispahan over the Black Sea and from Ispahan to Mosco with the Names of the principal Cities and Islands of Turky according to the vulgar pronunciation and as they are call'd in the Language of the Turks FRom Warsow upon the left hand of the Vistula the ordinary residence of the Kings of Poland to Lublin days 6 From Lublin to Iluove days 5 There all the Bales are open'd and the Customers take Five in the Hundred for their Merchandize From Iluove to Jaslovieer days 12 This is the last City of Poland toward Moldavia where if you sell any quantity of Goods you must pay Five per Cent. From Jaslovieer to Yashé days 8 This is the Capital City of Moldavia and is the Residence of the Vaywood which the Grand Signor sends to govern in the Country There they open all the Bales and there is a Roll of what every Merchant ought to pay which may amounts to Five per Cent. From Yashé to Ourshaye days 3 This is the last City of Moldavia
where there is no Custom to be paid From Ourshaye to Akerman days 4 Here they never open the Bales but they take Four in the Hundred From Akerman to Ozou days 3 Here they never open the Bales but the Custom amounts to Two per Cent. From Ozou to Precop days 5 Neither do they here open the Bales but trust to the Merchant's word and the Customs amount to Two and a half per Cent. From Precop to Kaffa days 5 Nor are the Bales open'd here but the Custom comes to Three per Cent. Thus from Warsow to Kaffa the Journey takes up one and fifty days in the Wagon which is the manner of Carriage in those Countries All the Customs amount to Eighteen and a half per Cent. to which you must add the Carriage and Passage by Sea to Trebizond where you pay three Piasters for every Mules-load and four for every Camels-load Observe by the way that the Armenians do not usually take shipping at Trebizónd but go to another Port more to the West upon the same Coast where they never pay above a Piaster and a half for a Camels-load This Port call'd Onnie is a very good Haven and there is another a little farther off call'd Samson which is no bad one but the Air is unwholsom and dang'rous There is also another Road from Warsow to Trebizond shorter by three days journey From Warsow to Yashé according to the Road already set down days 31 From Yashé to Galas days 8 All Merchandize is Tax'd at this place and the Duties are tak'n at Galas according to the Note which the Merchant brings from Galas Galas is a City of Moldavia From Galas to Megin days 1 The Bales are not open'd here but the Merchant pays three and a half or four per Cent. From Megin to Mangalia days 8 This is one of the four Ports to the West upon the Black Sea and the best of all The three others toward the South upon the Coast are Kavarna Balgik and Varna At Mangalia they demand but half a Piaster for every Bale Crossing from thence to Trebisond you have five days Journey to Erzerom Now to the Road of Muscovy which having been exactly describ'd by Olearius going into Persia I will describe it returning out of Persia. Having led the Reader to Shamaqui I will return home from thence From Shamaqui to Derbent days 7 Derbent which the Turks call Demir-Capi is the last City within the Jurisdiction of the Persians by which there runs a River which is call'd Shamourka From Derbent to Tetarck days 8 By this Town runs a River which is call'd Bocan From Tetark to Astracan they hire small Barks with a dozen Oars All along the shoar the Osiers grow so very thick that they afford shelter for the Barks in fowl weather If the Wind serve they will put up a little Sail and be at Astracan in four or five hours but if they only Row they cannot be there in nine When you Embark upon the Caspian Sea where you only creep along by the shore you must provide your self with Water for the three first days in regard the Water is bitter and ill tasted all along the Coast all that while but for the rest of the Voyage it is very good If you carry heavy Goods you may hire large Boats to save charges When you come to Astracan you unlade your Goods at what time the Officer comes and sealing up every Bale causes them to be sent to the Merchants lodging Three days after the Customer comes to op'n the Bales and takes five per Cent. If the Merchant hap'n to want money and takes it up at Astracan to pay again at Moscow he pays sometimes thirty per Cent according to the rate of Gold Ducats If a Merchant have any Diamonds or any other Jewels and let it be known he pays five per Cent. But if a Merchant have any Jewels or any other rarities and tells the Governour that he intends to carry them to the Grand Duke the Governour sends a Convoy with him either by Land or Water that costs him nothing and moreover sends a Courrier before to the Court to give notice of his coming There is very good Wine at Astracan but better at Shamaqui where I advise the Traveller to provide himself From Astracan to Moscow you take Shipping in great Barques that make use both of Oars and Sails rowing against the Tide and weigh what ever you put aboard to a very Coverlet Generally you pay for every pound fourteen Caya or three Abassi's and a half and an Abassi makes eighteen Sous and three Deniers In Muscovy they reck'n the way neither by leagues nor miles but by Shagerons five of which make an Italian mile From Astracan to Courmija Shagerons 300 From Courmija to Sariza sha. 200 From Sariza to Sarataf sha. 350 From Sarataf to Samarat sha. 200 From Samarat to Semiriskat sha. 300 From Semiriskat to Coulombe sha. 150 From Coulombe to Casan sha. 200 This is a great City with a stout Fortress From Casan to Sabouk-sha sha. 200 From Sabouk-sha to Godamijan sha. 120 From Godamijan to Niguina sha. 280 Niguina is a large and well Fortifi'd Castle From Niguina to Mouron sha. 300 From Mouron to Casin sha. 100 From Casin to Moscow sha. 250 So that from Astracan to Moscow they count it sha. which makes 590 Italian miles 2950 At Sarataf you may go ashore and so by Land to Moscow When the Snow is gone you travel in Wagons but when the Snow lies in Sledges If a man be alone and that his Goods weigh not above two hundred pounds Paris weight they put them into two Bales and laying them upon the Horses back set the man in the middle paying for Carriage as much as from Astracan to Moscow From Sarataf by Land to Inserat days 10 From Inserat to Tymnek days 6 From Tymnek to Canquerma days 8 From Canquerma to Volodimer days 6 Volodimer is a City bigger than Constantinople where stands a fair Church upon a Mountain in the City having been formerly the residence of the Emperours themselves From Volodimer to Moscow days 5 In all days 35 Observe by the way that they never go ashore at Serataf but in case of necessity when the River begins to be Frozen For from Serataf to Inserat is a Journey of ten days in all which time there is nothing to be had either for Horse or Man The Custom is the same at Moscow as at Astracan that is Five per Cent. All the Asiaticks Turks Persians Armenians and others lodge in a sort of Inns but the Europeans lie in a place by themselves altogether The Names of some Cities and places belonging to the Empire of the Grand Signor as they are vulgarly call'd and in Turkish COnstantinople after it was taken by Mahomet the second the twenty-seventh of May 1453. was call'd by the Turks Istam-Bol Istam signifying Security and Bol Spacious large or great as much as to say Great Security Vulgar
Turkish Adrianople Edrené Burse Brousa Belgrade Beligrade Buda Boudim Grand Caire Mesr. Alexandretta in Egypt Iskendrié Mecca Meqquie Balsara Basra Babylon Bagdat Nineveh Moussoul Nisibis Nisbin Edessa Ourfa Tiqueranger Diarbequir Eva-togea Tokat Teve Toupolis Erzerom Shamiramager Van. Jerusalem Koutsheriff Damas Cam. Tripoli in Syria Cam Taraboulous Aleppo Haleb. Tripoli in Barbary Taraboulous Tunis Tunis Algier Gezaiir Candy Guirir Rhodes Rodes Cyprus Kebres Chio Sakes Methelin Medilli Smyrna Izmir Troy Eski Istamboul Lemnos Limio Tenedos Bogge-adasi Negropont Eghirbos The Dardanels Bogaz-ki Athens Atina Barut Biroult Seyde Saida Tyre Sour St. John of Dacres Acra Antioch Antexia Trebizond Tarabozan Sinopus Sinap In the Fortress of Sinopus at the lower part of the Wall there is a Stone to be seen where there is an Inscription in Latin abbreviated with the word Rome in it whence some conjecture may be made that the Romans built it The Mediterranean Sea Akdeniis The Ocean Derijay Mouhiit The Black Sea Kara-Deniis CHAP. VIII Remarks upon the Trade of the Island of Candy and the principal Isles of the Archipelago as also upon some of the Cities of Greece adjoyning with a particular Relation of the present Condition of the Grand Signor's Galleys belonging as well to the Isles as to the Continent Of the ISLAND of CANDY OUT of the Island of Candy Strangers export great store of Wheat and Sallet-Oyl all sorts of Pulse Cheese yellow Wax Cottons Silks but more especially Malmsey wherein consists its chiefest Trade When Vintage draws near the Country-people that are to gather the Grapes wrap their Feet in a piece of a Boar's Skin which they tye together upon the upper part of the Foot with a piece of Pack-thred to preserve their Feet from the violent heat of the Rocks upon which they are to tread Those Skins are brought out of Russia by the Russes that bring Botargo and Caviare to Constantinople where they have a vast vent for it all over Turkie Persia and Ethiopia where they that follow the Greek and Armenian Church eat little or nothing else all the Lent By the way take notice that the Turks make a certain Glew out of Sturgeon which is the best in the World so that whatever is fasten'd with it will rather break in another place than where it is glew'd They make it thus When they have caught a Sturgeon they pull out his Guts and then there remains a Skin that covers the Flesh this Skin they take off from the head to the belly It is very clammy and about the thickness of two Sheets of Paper which they roll as thick as a Man's Arm and let it dry in the Sun When they use it they beat it with a Mallet and when it is well beat'n they break it into pieces and steep it in Water for half an hour in a little Pot. When the Venetians were Masters of Candy they that had committed any Crime which deserv'd Death if they could get out of the Island before they were apprehended went directly to Constantinopole to beg their pardon For you must know that no person but the Ambassador of the Commonwealth of Venice had the Priviledge to pardon Crimes committed in Candy For example when Signor Dervisano was Ambassador for the Commonwealth of Venice at Constantinople a Candiot having a desire to lye with a Woman by force she told him she would sooner eat her Child's Liver than yield to his Lust. Whereupon the Villain enrag'd he could not compass his design took his opportunity kill'd the Child cut out the Liver and made the Mother eat it and then slew the Mother also Upon this he fled to Constantinople to beg pardon of the Ambassador and obtain'd it there But the Ambassador at the same time wrote word to the Governour of Candy to put him to death at his return having only granted him his Pardon to preserve his Priviledge And indeed to speak truth the Candiots are the most wretched people under Heaven Of the ISLAND of CHIO THE City of Chio which gives the Island its Name contains about thirty thousand Inhabitants where there are little less than fifteen thousand Greeks eight thousand Latins and six thousand Turks Among the several Greek and Latin Churches the last of which hath continu'd ever since the time that the Genoeses possess'd the Island there are some indifferent handsom Structures The five principal Latin Churches are the Cathedral and the Churches belonging to the Escolantines the Dominicans the Jesuites and the Capuchins The Turks have also their Mosquees and the Jews their Synagogue Four Miles from the City near to the Sea-side is to be seen a vast Stone which was cut out of some Rock it is almost all round only the upper part which is flat and somewhat hollow round about the upper part and in the middle are places like Seats cut into the same Stone of which there is one higher than the rest like a School-master's Chair and Tradition reports that this was Homer's School where he taught his Scholars In this Island there is such an infinite number of Partridges that the like is not to be found in any part of the World But that which is a greater Rarity is this that the Natives breed them up as we do our Poultry but after a more pleasant manners for they let them go in the fields all the day long and at night every Country-man calls his own sevèrally home to Roost by a particular Note whither they return like a Flock of so many Geese There are great quantities of Damasks and Fustians wrought in the Island of Chio which are transported to Grand Cairo and to all the Cities upon the Coast of Barbary Natolia and particularly to Constantinople Three Leagues from the Island of Chio upon a Mountain to the South there grows a peculiar sort of Trees the Leaves are somewhat like a Myrtle their Branches so long that they creep upon the ground but which is more wonderful that when they are down they rise again of themselves From the beginning of May to the end of June the Inhabitants take great care to keep the Earth under the Tree very clean for during those two Months there issues out a certain Gum from the joynts of the Branches which drops upon the ground this is that which we call Mastick and the Turks Sakes according to the Name which they give the Island The Island produces great store of this Mastick which is spent in the Seraglio of Constantinople where the Women continually chew it to cleanse and keep their Teeth white When the Mastick Season draws near the Grand Signor every year sends a certain number of Bestangi's to take care that it be not exported but be preserv'd for the use of the Seraglio If it be a plentiful year for Mastick the Bestangi's that cull out the lesser sort to sell put it into little Bags and seal it up which Bags being so seal'd are never question'd by the Custom-house Officers The Island also
yields very good Turpentine Of the ISLAND of NAXIS THere is not one Port belongs to this Island the Vessels that are Bound thither for Trade being forc'd to stay in the Haven of the Isle of Paros call'd Derion six miles from Naxis which is one of the best Havens in the Archipelago able to contain a thousand Ships There are the ruines of a Wall still to be seen that made a Mole where four or five Galleys might ride There are also the ruines of several Houses of the ancient Dukes the Stables standing almost whole all Arch'd and built of Marble These Dukes were also Lords of twelve other Islands As for the Island it self it is well stor'd with Villages and has three good Cities Barequa Qüsa and Falet Near this Island within a stones throw there is a curious piece of Antiquity still to be seen It is a flat Rock as big about in compass as the ancient Court of the Louvre In the middle of this Rock it was that the Temple of Bacchus was built all of Marble of which there is nothing but the Foundations that remain The Gate is still standing made of three Stones whereof two make the sides and the third lies across From the Isle to this Rock there is a fair Stone Bridge of Free-stone upon each side whereof are to be seen the Pipes that convey'd the Wine into the Temple that was drank at the Feast of Bacchus Naxis also is the Island that produces the best Emeril As to the Inhabitants themselves if the Husband or Wife happens to dye the Survivor never stirs out of the House in six Months after upon any business how urgent soever no not to hear Mass. There are both Latins and Greeks in the Island but the latter are the most numerous There is a Latin Arch-bishop and Canons belonging to the Metropolitan Church with two Religious Houses one of Capuchins and the other of Jesuites The Greeks also have their Arch-bishop The Island of Naxis is sixscore miles in compass being one of the fairest and pleasantest Islands in the Archipelago The ancient Dukes made it their residence whence they command the greatest part of the Cyclades There is great plenty of White Salt made in Naxis and it produces excellent Wine both White and Claret which caus'd the Inhabitants to build a Temple to Bacchus who according to their ancient Tradition chose that Island for his Habitation The Island produces excellent Fruits feeds great store of Cattle and abounds in several other things necessary for human support There are also in it large Woods full of small Deer and frequented by a great number of Eagles and Vultures Here follow the names of the Cyclades as the people of the Country pronounce them 1. Deloa or Sdilis 2. Giaroa 3. Andros 4. Paros 5. Nicaria 6. Samoa 7. Pathmoa 8. Olearoa 9. Sitino 10. Rhena 11. Miconoa 12. Tenoa or Tino 13. Sciroa or Sira 14. Subiuma 15. Syphnus or Sifante 16. Nixcia 17. Chios or Scio. 18. Astypalea 19. Amorgus or Amorgo Of the Islands of Zea of Milo of Paros and other Islands of the Archipelago ZEA is an Island wherein there is nothing remarkable and from whence there is nothing to be Exported but Valanede to dye Leather withall Neither are there any Goods Imported into it but what the Pirates bring in which are very few in regard the Islanders are careful to provide themselves otherwhere Milo affords nothing but Millstones to grind Wheat which are carry'd to Constantinople Paros where there is no Trade neither has nothing remarkable in it but one Greek Church very well built all of Marble call'd Our Lady's Church As for the Islands of Sifante and Miconoa in regard there is nothing of Trade in either but only with the Pirates who sometimes touch there if there be any Consuls that live there it is only to buy their stol'n Goods Of the City of Athens Corinth Patras Coron and Modon THE City of Athens is about four miles distant from the Sea and contains two and twenty thousand Inhabitants twenty five thousand Greeks five or six thousand Latins and a thousand Turks Among all the Antiquities that yet remain those in the Castle are the best preserv'd The Castle stands upon a Hill upon the North descent whereof some part of the City stands It encloses a very fair and spacious Temple built all of white Marble from the top to the bottom supported by stately Pillars of black Marble and Porphiry In the front are great Figures of Armed Knights ready to encounter one another Round about the Temple except upon the Roof which is all of flat Marble Stones well order'd are to be seen all the famous Acts of the Greeks in small carving every Figure being about two foot and a half high Round about the Temple runs a fair Gallery where four persons may walk a-brest It is supported by sixteen Pillars of white Marble upon each of the sides and by six at each end being also pav'd and cover'd with the same Stone Close to the Temple stands a fair Palace of white Marble which now falls to decay Below the Castle and at the point of the City toward the East stand seventeen Pillars the remainder of three hundred where anciently they say stood the Palace of Theseus first King of the Athenians These Pillars are of a prodigious bigness every one eighteen foot about They are proportionable in height but not all of a piece being thwarted most of them by Stones of white Marble one end whereof rests upon one Pillar and the other upon that which follows it which was the support of the whole building Upon the Gate which is yet entire are to be seen these words upon the front without ãâã ãâã ãâã ãâã ãâã The City of Athens was assuredly the City of Theseus Within-side of the same City these other words are Engrav'd ãâã ãâã ãâã ãâã ãâã The City of Athens is the City of Adrian and not of Theseus There are in Athens several other pieces of Antiquity which are well worthy to be seen Corinth which formerly made such a noise in the world is now a Village of some five or six and twenty houses but all of them the Habitations of rich Greeks The Town lies at the foot of the Castle which is seated upon an inaccessible Rock guarded by the Greeks commanded by an Aga. Corinth Exports great quantities of Currants Patras does the same which is all the Trade of those two places Coron and Modon drive a Trade in Sallet-Oyl which is so good and so plentiful that several English Dutch and other Ships are load'n away with it from thence every year There are Consuls in Athens Patras Coron Modon and Napoli of Romania The Athenian Merchants buy up Tissues Velvets Satins and Cloth with which they serve other Countries adjoyning The Commodities which Foreigners export from thence are Silks Wool Sponges Wax Cordivan-Leather and Cheese Which is all that can be said in few words of the Trade
min. Lat. In a Country abounding in all forts of Cattel Zenjon 73 deg 36 min. Long. 36 deg 5 min. Lat. Famous for its antiquity and formerly the Persian University Zertah 79 deg 30 min. Long. 32 deg 30 min. Lat. The biggest City in the Province of Belad-Ciston abounding in Wine and Shell-fruit Zour 70 deg 20 min. Long. 35 deg 32 min. Lat. A City in the same Province Zouzen 85 deg 15 min. Long. 35 deg 39 min. Lat. In the Province of Mazandran Zourend 73 deg 40 min. Long. 31 deg 15 min. Lat. In the Province of Kerman where there is great store of curious Potters ware where also grows the Root Hanna with the juice whereof the Persians dye their Nails and the Breasts and Tails of their Horses The End of the Third BOOK THE FOURTH BOOK OF THE TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER BEING A DESCRIPTION OF PERSIA CHAP. I. Of the Extent of PERSIA and its division into Provinces PERSIA according to the present State of the Empire to the North is bounded by the Caspian Sea Southward by the Ocean Eastward it joyns to the Territories of the Great Mogul Westward to the Dominions of the Grand Signor the two Empires being parted by the Rivers Tigris and Euphrates But that you may the better understand the full extent of the Dominions of the Persian King you are to know That this great Monarch besides that Tract of Ground which is properly call'd Persia possesses a vast part of the ancient Assyria and the great Armenia the ancient Kingdoms of the Parthians and Medes the Kingdom of Lar the Kingdom of Ormus and all Eastward of Persia beyond Candahar almost as far as the Kingdom of Scindi But because those Europeans that have Travel'd before me either were not so curious or had not perhaps the opportunity to learn the true number of the Provinces that compose the whole Continent of Persia I have undertak'n though the Persians themselves are ignorant enough to give the best account I can finding it necessary for the better satisfaction of the Reader to take some notice of the Names of Places according to the ancient Geography The first is the Great Armenia which our Maps without any ground or reason at all call Turcomannia in regard they might have more properly call'd it Ermonick in general since the Inhabitants are the greatest part Armenians That part whereof which is situated between the two Rivers of Araxes and Cyrus at this day call'd Aras and Kur by the Natives is call'd Iran or Cara-bag being one of the most beautiful and richest pieces of Land in all Persia the principal Cities of which are Erivan Nacksivan Zulpha and Van. The second is Diarbeck formerly Mesopotamia between Euphrates and Tigris the chief Cities whereof are Bi r Car-Emir or Diarbequir Ourfa Moussul Geziré Merdin c. The third is Curdistan formerly Assyria extending all along the East-side of the River Tigris from the Lake Van to the Frontiers of Bagdat the principal Cities are Niniveh Sherisoul Amadié Sneirne Betlis and Salmastre The fourth is Hierak-Arabi otherwise the Country of Babylon or Chaldea the principal Cities whereof are Felougia upon Euphrates Bagdat upon Tigris Mershed-Ali Gourno and Balsara and in the Country of Bourous Sharaban Eronnabat c. The fifth is Hierak-Agemi or the ancient Parthia the principal Cities whereof are Hispahan Toushercan Hamadan Cashan Kan and Casbin and perhaps Yesd if it be not rather in Kerman or Sigistan The sixth contains Shirvan all along the Caspian Sea where stand the Cities of * Derbent in the Persian Tongue signifies ae Strait Gate and Demir-Capi in the Turkish ae Gate of Iron near to which place were the ancient Caspian Gates or Caspiae Pylae of the Ancients Derbent or Demir-Capi Baku and Shamaki and the Province of Edzerbaijan wherein stand the Cities of Tauris Ardevil and Sultany Which two Provinces comprehend the ancient Media within a very little extending to the very Shoar of the Caspan Sea The seventh contains Kylan and Mazandran lying likewise upon the Caspan Sea formerly Hyrcania wherein are the Cities and Towns of Firuzcuh Sukar-abad and Mibnikiellé at the entry of the Mountains Giru Talara-pesct and Saru in the Plain Ferh-abad Ciarman and Gscref toward the Sea The eighth is Estarabad formerly Margiana which extends to the River Ruthkhané-kurkan which the Ancients call'd Oxus the principal Cities whereof are Estarabad Amul Damkam The ninth contains the Province of the Usbeck-Tartars comprehending all the ancient Sogdiana and Bactriana the chief Cities whereof are Balk Samarcand and Boccara c. The tenth is Corassan formerly Aria with some part of Bactriana the chief Cities whereof are Eri Meshed Nisabur Thun c. The eleventh Sablestan formerly Peloponnesus the principal Cities whereof are Beksabat Asbé Bust Sarents the Territory and City of Candahar being also comprehended within the extent of this Province together with Duki and Alunkan upon the Frontiers of the Great Mogul's Dominions The twelfth is Sigistan formerly Drangiana the principal Cities whereof are Sistan Shalack and Kets The thirteenth comprehends all the Territories of the ancient Arachosia bord'ring upon the Kingdom of Scindi not having any Cities that we know of The fourteenth is the Province of Makran lying all along upon the Sea of Mogostan formerly Gedrosia the chief Cities whereof are Makran Firhk Chalak and the Port of Guadel toward Guzerat The fifteenth Kerman formerly Caramania extending as far as the Gulf of Ormus the chief Cities whereof are Kerman Bermazir the Port of Kuhestek and the Cape of Jasques The sixteenth is Farsistan or that part of Persia so properly call'd the chief Cities whereof are Schiras Caseron Benarou Firus-abat Darab-guier c. To which you may add the little Province of Laraston with the City of Lar just against Ormus But this Province formerly extended no farther than Benarou two days journey from Lar before Sha-Abas conquer'd the Kingdom of Lar and then the Kingdom of Ormus Now they are both united though they have both several Governours as they had distinct Princes before The Ports in this Province upon the Persian Gulf are Bander-Abassi and Bander-Congo There are two other little Ports in the Persian Gulf about thirty hours sail from the Mouth of Euphrates but not capable of receiving any other than small Barks which are very much to be admir'd for in regard the Inhabitants are ignorant of the use of Iron it is strange to see their Boats made so handsom and strong withal the Planks being only ty'd together with a Cord which is made of a kind of Hemp tak'n from the out-side of the Coco-nut The last is the Province of Cursistan formerly Susiana which Euphrates and Tigris joyning together separate from Chaldea the principal Cities whereof are Suster anciently Susa the Capital City of the Empire of King Ahasuerus Ahawas Scabar Ramhormus c. The temper of the Air in Persia varies according to the variety of situation The Country of
at the end of the Bazar is a fair Inn where all the Merchants live that sell Musk Russia Leather and Furrs I have in another place observ'd that the King has a great Revenue out of the Bazars and Inns which he has caus'd to be built which is particularly laid out in provision for his Table For the Law of Mahomet forbidding Princes to impose Taxes or Customs upon the people they do not believe that the money which arises from thence is fit to be employ'd or laid out for the necessaries of life believing that their food so purchas'd would do them no good By virtue of this prohibition of Mahomet it is that the Merchants take all the liberty they can to deceive the King of his Customs believing that they cannot offend the Prince while they transgress not the Law Besides that if they should pay all the King's Duties the price of Goods would rise so high so as to spoil the whole Course of Trade and Commerce Neither would the Revenue of the Caravansera's Bazars and Gardens suffice for the Kings Kitchin were not the several Kans or Governours of Provinces oblig'd to supply that expence every Week in their turns whereby those expences cost the King little or nothing Upon the North-Front of the Meydan are made under the Portico's separations for Chambers that look upon the Piazza where people go to smoak Tobacco and drink Coffee The Seats of those Rooms are plac'd as in so many Amphitheaters and in the midst of every one stands a large Vessel full of running Water wherewith their Pipes be cleans'd when they are over-fowl All the Persians that haveany spare time fail not every day to resort to those places between seven and eight in the Morning where the Owner of the Room presently brings them every one their Pipe and their Dish of Coffee But the Great Sha-Abas who was a man of a great understanding finding those places were only so many Meeting-houses where men assembl'd to talk and prattle of State-affairs a thing which no way pleas'd him to break the neck of those petty Cabals he order'd that a Moullah should be sure to be betimes at every place before the rest of the people came thither and that he should entertain those Tobacco-whiffers and Coffee-quaffers sometimes with a Point of the Law sometimes with History sometimes with Poetry This custom is still observ'd so that after this entertainment has lasted two or three hours the Moullah rising up crys to every one in the Coffee-Room Come my Masters in good time let 's all now retire every man to his business Straight every one retires upon the Moullah's words who is liberally entertain'd all the while by the Society In the midst of the North-Front stands a great Portal with a large Dial over it which Sha-Abas brought from Ormus when he took it from the Portugals But the Dial is of no use nor is ever like to be Round the Tower of that Portal runs an op'n Gallery with a kind of a Cieling over head supported with Pillars from whence every Evening about Sun-set and at Midnight a noise of Drums and Trumpets is to be heard through the whole City Though the truth is the Musick would never charm a curious Ear. Out of some parts of the Gallery are contriv'd little Dormitories where the chiefest of the Court lye In all the Cities where the Kans reside is the custom of making this ratling noise of Drums and Trumpets observ'd and not elsewhere On each side of the Portal under the Horologe are five or six Banks of Jewellers who there put to sale certain parcels of Pearls Emralds Granats and Turquoises which are not of any great value every parcel being set by it self in a Dish and the whole Stall cover'd with a silk Net to preserve the Stones from being stoln Just against the same Portal going toward the South-Front you meet with two little Goals five or six Foot high and sev'n or eight distant one from the other Here the men play at Pall-mall on horse-back the Horse-man being to strike the Ball running at full speed between the two Goals Through that Portal you enter into an Enclosure much like the place where the Fair of St. Germans is kept and there it is that the Merchants of Gold and Silver-Tissues and other rich Stuffs with all your finest sorts of Calicuts and Linnens keep their Shops The Court side of the Meydan which is upon the East and which answers to the grand Front where the King's House stands is thus appointed In the middle stands a Duomo cover'd with a kind of bak'd Earth and as well the Duomo as the Portal which is very high are all varnish'd over You ascend nine or ten steps the Port of Haly facing it on the other side of the Piazza From the end of the Portico's that touch the North side of the Mosquee live the Shop-keepers that sell sowing-Silk and small Manufactures of Silk as Ribands Laces Garters and other things of the same nature From the Mosquee to the other end are all Turners that make Cradles for Children and Spinning-Wheels There are also some Cotton-beaters that make quilted Coverlets Without the Portico's are none but Smiths that make Scyths Hammers Pincers Nails and such like things with some few Cutlers This is all that can be said of Ispahan and that great Piazza which some perhaps have set out in better colours But I have represented all things as they are as being one that have seen them oftner and beheld them a longer time than ever any Frank that Travel'd into Asia CHAP. VI. Of Zulpha a little City separated from Ispahan by the River Senderou ZUlpha which others call Julpha and Giolpha is distant from Ispahan toward the South half an hours walk the River Scnderou running almost at an equal distance between the two Cities The way that leads from one City to another is a Walk some fifteen hundred Paces long and seventy broad almost equally divided by the River It begins from a Pavilion or Tabernacle forty Foot square which joyns to the hinder part of the King's House with a double Story to which several Windows give light clos'd with wooden Lattices very artificially wrought None but the King and his Houshold pass that way into the Walk For they that go from Ispahan to Zulpha find the way into the Walk through a Gate which is close adjoyning to the Tabernacle This Walk is call'd the Street of Tcharbag or the Street of Four Gardens A Channel runs all along the Walk from the Tabernacle where a little Rivulet falls into it and fills it as far as the great Bridge The two sides of the Channel which are pav'd with Stone and are two or three Foot broad make one way which Passengers may and many times do take for the usual way both for Horse and Foot lyes upon each side of the Walk behind the Trees which are planted in a streight line to the very Walls of
about his having alighted at which time the Athemadoulet and other Lords remounting him the two Kings rode together upon the Silks the King of Persia giving the left hand to the Tartar The King of Persia very generously lent him a considerable assistance of 15000 Horse and 8000 Foot and sixty thousand Tomans in Money The Tartar in Exchange gave him one of his Provinces bordering upon Persia which yeilded him a very good Revenue in regard the Inhabitants were all Shepherds or Turcomans that breed an infinite number of Cattel wherein the wealth of that Province consists While he reign'd he had a present made him from the Governour of Schiras of a wild Ass whose Skin was as red as Scarlet having a Horn growing out of his forehead about a foot long Sha Abbas reign'd about twenty-four years and dy'd at Tehzon of an inflammation in his throat which came by excessive drinking His body by his own order was buri'd at Kour So soon as he was dead the Lords that were about him sent advice of his death to the Prince that now reigns by the Topigi-Basha who is General of the Musqueteers and Mirza Bayad the Cheif of the Astrologers So soon as they came to the door of the Haram they desir'd to speak with the Mother and the Son who believ'd them come upon some dismal design But they presently confirm'd them to the contrary For as soon as the Prince came forth of the Haram they fell at his feet and saluted him King declaring the death of his Father Whereupon the Prince immediately tore his Garment according to the custom And indeed they have another custom that as soon as the new Prince comes after much entreaty out of the Haram he throws himself to the ground at the door of the Haram and then rising and sitting upon his heels one of the Lords that are sent girds the Scimiter about his waste saying these words May it please your Majesty to remember your Slave that had the Honour to grid you with this Scimiter Which done he goes and sets the Trumpets a sounding and the Drums beating whereupon all the people in the morning come running to the Gate of the Palace crying out Patsha Salamalek I salute thee Emperor Which is all the Ceremony us'd when any King of Persia ascends the Throne For I never saw any Crown set upon the head either of Sha Abbas or Sha Sefi Only in Persia they gird on the Scimiter as in Turky they put on the Bonnet of the Sophi's which is very richly set with Jewels but has not the least resemblance of a Crown The same Ceremony of girding on the Scimiter is us'd to the Mogul the Kings of Visapour and Golconda and they also put the Bonnet upon their heads which is set with the richest Jewels in the possession of those great Monarchs Sha-Sefi the second some time after his coming to the Throne fell dangerously sick not having ever enjoy'd a perfect health before Now it is the custom in those Countries that upon such an occasion all the Lords of the Court and Governors of Provinces give a sum of money according to their willingness and liberality This sum is usually in Gold which they put into a Bason very richly set with pretious Stones and bear it three times over the Kings head pronouncing these words Patsha Bashena Olson This money is sacrific'd for the health of the Kings head If the King recover all that money is giv'n to the poor to which the King and his Haram add very liberally But if the King dies the money is put into the Treasury and the poor have nothing The twentieth of August 1667 was the critical day of his distemper and every one thought he would have dy'd Upon which all the Grandees of the Court seeing him in that condition went to the Mosquee call'd Babaron which is without the City to pray for his health and altogether gave near a thousand Tomans to the poor The next day they commanded the Christian Armenians to pray for the recovery of the King Whereupon as well the Ecclesiasticks as the Laity went to their prayers upon the side of the River which is between Ispahan and Zulpha They also sent their Kelonter with fifty Tomans in Gold to bear over the Kings head though the Armenians pronounce not the same words as the Persians saying only Berai te Sadduk destin'd for Alms. Thus the danger being over in a few days they made it their business to recover him to a perfect habit of health but in regard the King continu'd in a languishing condition and for that the Physicians could not discover the cause of the distemper the King began to beleive that it proceeded from the ignorance of the Physicians for which reason some of them had receiv'd none of the best entertainment already At length it came into the thoughts of some others of the Physicians who were afraid for themselves that in regard Persia was thus doubly afllicted with Famine and the Sickness of the King both at one time it must of necessity be the Astrologers fault that miss'd the favourable hour when the King should have ascended the Throne Thus being troubl'd at their disgrace pretending to have no less skill in future knowledg than the Astrologers who had not chos'n a true time for the King to ascend the Throne they concluded that for the perfect recovery of his health and the restoring of plenty to the Nation it was necessary to renew the Ceremony at a lucky hour and to change his name This proposition pleas'd the King and his Council The Physitians and Astrologers joining together observ'd the first unlucky day which would certainly be follow'd by another that would prove fortunate Now there being among the Gaures some that pretend themselves descended from the Rustans who were ancient Kings of Persia and Parthia that very morning one of those Gaures setting himself upon the Throne with his back against a wooden Figure which represented him to the life all the Grandees of the Court came and did him homage as their King as he had order'd them to do This action lasted till the favourable hour was come which happen'd a little before Sun-set Then it was that an Officer of the Court came behind and cut off the head of the wooden Figure while the Gaure immediately took his heels and fled Presently upon that the King appear'd in the Hall upon whose head when they had put the Bonnet of Sophi and re-girt him with the Scimitar he ascended the Throne and took the name of Soliman He was forc'd to act this Comedy to satisfie the Law which contriv'd that he should change his Name and take a new possession of his Throne by ejecting a Usurper that had wrongfully claim'd it For which reason the Gaure was set up as Pretender as laying claim to the ancient Lineage of the Persian Kings and being of a different Religion From that time the King recovering and the Famine
when they are settl'd they are never depos'd but upon repeated complaints of their excessive Tyranny There are some of these Governments that yield the Kan seven or eight thousand Tomans But they are bound to present the King every year at Nourons or New-years-tide Under the Kans there are also Governors of lesser quality who are also immediately preferr'd by the King and cannot be depos'd by any person but himself If they abuse their Authority the complaints brought against him are first carri'd to the Kan which if they concern the Government of the Kingdom the Kan is bound to inform the King thereof But if the complaints are not considerable then the Kan may do Justice himself and make the Sultans know their duty There is yet a third sort of Governors call'd Asephs who are the King's Lieutenants in places where he had Kans in former times or where he ought to have them still but only to save charges For in the Provinces where Kans Govern they and their Officers almost equalling in name and number the Officers of the King's Houshold devour all the profits of the Province but what the Kan is oblig'd annually to pay By what I have wrote as well concerning the King's Houshold the Governors of his Provinces and the Officers of his Army it may be easily concluded that the King of Persia's Court is the most magnificent and glorious of all the Courts of Asia and besides that it is the most Polite and Civil of all the Orient CHAP. XI Of the second Order containing all those that belong to the Ecclesiastical Law and their Courts of Justice and in general of all the Gown-men such as are chiefly the Officers of the Chamber of Accounts THE second of the three Estates of Persia comprehends the Gown-men such as are the Doctors of the Law the Officers of Justice and those of the Chamber of Accounts As the Athemat-doulet is the Prime Minister in Temporals the Sedre is the Prime Minister in Spirituals and the High-Priest of the Law However he does not pretend to take place before the Athemat-doulet either in Council or in the publick Ceremonies There is this difference between the Sedre and the Mufti in Turkey that in Persia Ecclesiastical Dignities are no bar from Civil Employments so that the Sedre is many times made Athemat-doulet The Dignity of Sedre is not limited to one single person but may be divided between two in regard there are two sorts of Legacies the one from the King 's of Persia the other from particular persons Therefore for the more careful Superintendency over these two sorts of Legacies there are sometimes two Sedres appointed The one is call'd Sedre-Kras particular or peculiar Sedre who manages all the Revenues of the Royal Foundations and distributes them to the Mullaks and Students according to their merit The other is call'd Sedre-el-mankoufat who has the management of private Foundations In the year 1667 the King created two Sedres and marri'd them to two of his Sisters The Sedre has two men under him whose Authority is almost equal to theirs The one is call'd Speik-el-selom and the other Cadi and these are they that decide all controversies in Religion judge of Divorces make Contracts and publick Acts. These two Dignities are in the King's nomination and in all the principal Cities of the Kingdom there are two of these Ecclesiastical Judges for all matters that concern the Law To every Mosquee there belongs a Pichnamaz who is always first there before Prayers begin and he teaches the people to Pray by learning of him having their eyes always fix'd upon him to that end This Picknamaz is the same with him whom the Turks call Iman The Moullah's are the Doctors of the Law as are the Hodgia's in Turkey and they are well paid out of the Legacies giv'n to the Mosquees for reading every Friday and interpreting the Alcoran to the people He that reads sits in one Chair and he that interprets in another somewhat lower upon the left-hand of the Reader They are also bound to teach the Sciences to all those that require it and as a mark of Sanctity they wear a great white Turbant with a single Chamlet-habit of the same colour Their gate is grave and their discourse very serious yet all this is but pure hypocrisy When they light into any considerable company of people they presently rise and exhort 'em to go to Prayers At the same time they wash their heads their hands and their feet and spread a felt upon the ground or if they are poor a single mat Upon this at one end the Maulla kneels at the other lies a flat Stone about the bigness of the paulm of a man's hand which was brought from Mecca Which Stones the Moullah's always carry about 'em for being commanded while they are at their devotions often to kiss the ground they rather choose to kiss a Stone brought from so holy a place than the prophane Earth They have a kind of a Mariners compass which directs them punctually where Mecca stands to the end they may know which way to turn when they say their Prayers The Prayer which the Moulla's make seems to be accompani'd with a great deal of zeal and they take great notice all the while whether the company be attentive or no. Some Persians are so superstitious that a Vizir of Schiras suffer'd his leg to rot off because he would not let a Christian Chirurgeon touch him for fear of being defil'd There belongs also to every Mosquee a Monteveli who looks after the repairs of the Building and the Provision of what belongs to the Mosquee together with a Mouazen who cries morning and evening from the top of a Tower That there is but one God and that Mahomet is his Prophet Colledges the Persians call Medrese where there are a great number of Scholars bred up at little charge out of the Legacies left to the Foundations They allow them a Chamber without any Furniture they being to provide a Coverlet and a Mattress for themselves They have no certain Masters but sometimes they go for their instructions to one sometimes to another seldom to the Principal of the Colledg who is call'd Monderes and is generally the greatest Blockhead of them all But there are several other persons in every good City that are forward to teach the Sciences to purchase honour to themselves For which reason they are very liberal to get a great company of Followers together who are as so many Trumpets to publish the wisdom of their Akroom or Doctor But when their Liberality ceases the Trumpets want breath at the same time Now as to their manner of studying the Student first reads two or three lines and then the Doctor Expounds Then another reads two or three lines more and so one after another every one rising up out of respect after he has done reading and standing upright till the Doctor bids him sit down again One of these Doctors shall
are Officers pay'd by the King and never work unless they please themselves commanding all that are under their Jurisdiction As for Carpenters and Joyners work the Persians know little what belongs to it which proceeds from the scarcity of Wood that does not allow them materials to work upon So that for Chairs Tables and Bedsteads there are no such things to be seen in Persia the Joyners business being only to make Doors and Frames for Windows which they make very neatly of several pieces of wood join'd together so that a man can hardly put a Tennis Ball through the holes where they put the glass Nor can it be expected that the Persians should work like other Europeans having no other Tools then a Hatchet a Saw and a Chizzel and one sort of Plainer which a Frenchman brought among them Their nobler Arts are Writing for Printers they know none All their Books are writt'n which is the reason they so much esteem that Art There was an Armenian who had set up a Printing-Press at Ispahan and had Printed the Epistles of St. Paul the seven Penitential Psalms and was going about to Print the whole Bible but not having the way of making good Ink and to avoid the ill consequences of the Invention he was forc'd to break his Press For on the one side the Children refus'd to learn to write pretending they wrote the Bible themselves only to get it the sooner by heart on the other side many persons were undone by it that got their living by writing The Persians use three sorts of hands the first is call'd Nestalick or the Set-hand the second Shakeste or Divanni which is their Court-hand the third Neskre or the Running-hand very like the Arabic They write with small Indian Reeds and say that to write well a man ought to lean so slightly upon his Pen that should a fly stand upon the other end it would fall out of his hand When they write they hold their Paper in one hand to turn it according to the motion of the Pen otherwise they could not make their dashes large and free as the Character requires They make their Paper of Cotton Fustian very course brown and of no strength for the least folding tears it They sleek it with a sleek stone and then rub it over to make it more sleek Their Ink is made of Galls and Charcoal pounded together with Soot The Persians reck'n four Languages among ' em The Persian call'd Belick that is sweet and pleasing The Turkish call'd Sciascet or the Rodomontado Language The Arabian to which they give the Epithite of Feschish or Eloquent and the fourth call'd Cobahet or the Speech of the Country people The Persian in use among the Gentry is compos'd almost of all Arabic words by reason that the Persian is very barren But the Gibbrish of the Country people is so corrupt that they in the City can hardly understand ' em The Arabian is the Language of the Learned in which tongue their Books are written The Language of the Court is Turkish but much more soft and elegant then at Constantinople As for the Persian Language it is spoken in the Courts of the Great Mogul and the Kings of Golconda and Visapour in all which Courts a Noble man would take it for an affront to be spok'n to in the Indian Language As for their Painters they only paint in miniature and for Birds and Flowers they will draw them indifferently well But for figures and stories they know not what belongs to any such thing The Persians are most excellent Artists for manufactures of Gold Silk and Silver of which their rich Carpets and Tissues are made nor do their Gold and Silver Manufactures ever grow black or loose their luster by long wearing or lying by There are abundance that work in Silk stuffs of all sorts and others that make Bonnets and Girdles of Gold and Silk Others there are whose business it is to fast'n flowers of Gold and Silver to their Taffata's with gum water of which the women make Shifts and Drawers And now they begin to make such large quantities of Taffata's that they care not for the stuffs which are brought out of India though they be much finer They also make great quantities of Linnen Cloth of all sorts of colours upon which they fast'n several flowers with gum water and some figures though the Law forbid it Which they learnt to do upon the Armenians carrying out of Europe some ill-favour'd cuts and pieces in distemper which they bought here without judgment these pieces they hang before their doors and those hollow places in the walls where they put their Quilts and Carpets when they rise The Persians are excellent Artists at Damasquing with Vitriol or engraving Damask-wise upon Swords Knives and the like But the nature of the Steel which they make use of very much contributes to their Art in regard they cannot perform the same work neither upon their own nor ours This steel is brought from Golconda and is the only sort of steel which can be damasqu'd For when the workman puts it in the fire he needs no more then to give it the redness of a Cherry and instead of quenching it in the water as we do to wrap it in a moist Linnen cloth for should he give it the same heat as to ours it would grow so hard that when it came to be wrought it would break like glass I speak this to undeceive those people who think our Scimitars and Cut-lasses are made of steel of Damascus which is a vulgar error there being no steel but that of Golconda that can be Damask'd The Persians are also excellent Artists at making Bows and Arrows and such other weapons as are us'd in that Country As for Bridles and Saddles their Artists far exceed ours especially in their sowing which they do so neatly and with so much art with a kind of back-stitch that it looks almost like an embroidery There are an infinite number that live by dressing Seal-skins and Goat-skins the first to make boots for the Gentry and better sort of Merchants the latter for the poor people There is also a sort of earthen ware made at Kerman which is very fine and being brok'n looks as white within as without It does not endure hear so well as Porcellane which has this quality that if you powre never so hot liquor into a Porcellane cup neither the foot nor the brims a-top will be any thing the warmer There are abundance of poor people that get their living by mending glass Tobacco-pipes for when they are brok'n they join them together again with a certain mastic made of lime and the white of an egg then with a Diamond-pointed piercer they make holes in the glass and bind the pieces together with a thin Latten-wire The most considerable commodities of Persia are the Silks which come out of the Province of Guilan But there is not so much transported out of Persia as
condition Others more refin'd and not believing material enjoyments affirm that Beatitude consists in the perfect knowledge of the Sciences and for the sences they shall have their satisfaction according to their quality CHAP. XX. The Author departs from Ispahan to Ormus and describes the Road to Schiras I Set forth out of Ispahan the 24. of Feb. 1665. in the afternoon and stai'd a League from the City in a field whither some of my friends would needs accompany me About ten a clock at night I set forward again and travell'd till break of day and then I came to a place where the Radars kept guard half a league from a great Town call'd Ispshaneck which you are to cross About ten a clock in the forenoon I came to Mahiar where there is a very good Inn. But the Land between this and Ispahan is all very barren and without wood The 26 th three hours after midnight I set forward through a dry Plain which begins to grow more fruitful about a League from Comshe a great City where I arriv'd by eleven a Clock in the morning In it are several Inns and indifferent handsome ones considering that they are built only of Earth This City is compos'd of a row of Villages that extend about half a League in length About three quarters of a League on this side the City stands a neat Mosquee with a pond full of fish But the Moullahs will not permit you to catch any saying that they belong to the Prophet to whom the Mosquee is dedicated However because it is a shady place in the Summer Travellers rather choose to lye by this pond then to shut themselves up in the City The 27 th I travell'd from four in the morning till ten in the forenoon through a plain sow'd with store of grain and lodg'd in an Inn call'd Maksoubegui The 28 th I departed two hours after midnight and after eight hours travel through a barren plain I arriv'd at Yesdecas a little City built upon a rock in the midst of a great Valley and lodg'd in an Inn at the foot of the Rock The same day in the morning I pass'd on to a neat house with sine Gardens call'd Amnebad built by Iman-Kouli-Kan Governor of Schiras The first of March I departed an hour after midnight and a little after I cross'd a short mountain but so rugged and so craggie that they have given it the name of Kotel-Innel-tebekeni that is the Mountain that breaks the Horses shoes The next day we pass'd by a scurvy Castle call'd Gombessala then travelling through a flat Country I came by ten in the morning to Dehigherdou or the Village of Wall-nuts I endur'd very sharp weather all the morning for all that Country and that which I travell'd the next day is very cold at some times of the year The second day I travell'd from midnight till ten a clock in the morning through the Snow over a barren Plain to come to Cuzkuzar where there is a new Inn well built The third I was a horseback from five in the morning till noon first over the same Plain by a Lake side in a very bad way cover'd with snow that hid the holes then passing a tedious long and rugged mountain I descended to a Village call'd Asepas where there is to be seen an old ruin'd Castle upon the point of a Hill The Inhabitants were all Georgians by descent but now turn'd all Mahumetans I met with wine and fish in regard of the many Rivolets but the Caravahsira is old and ill provided The fourth setting out by day-break I rode over a Plain which Sha Abbas the first gave the Georgians to till and in eleven hours I came to Ondgiom a large Village upon a River over which there is a fair stone bridge The fifth I got a horseback by two a clock in the morning and had two leagues in the first place of deep miery way afterwards I pass'd a steep Mountain craggy and durty I pass'd through a Village call'd Iman Shade from the name of one of their Prophets that lyes buried there and gave the Mountain its name being all cover'd with bitter Almond-trees I travell'd sometime between rude and craggy rocks after which I met with a small River which runs to Mayn a little City where I lodg'd in a fair Inn. The sixth I departed three hours after midnight and travell'd through a large Plain encompass'd with high and rugged Mountains upon one of which that is divided from the other stood a Castle which they say was ruin'd by Alexander the Great of which at present there does not remain the least sign or footstep I cross'd the river of Mayne over two stone Bridges and then came to Abgherme a place that stands in a Plain where there is an Inn half built so call'd by reason of a Spring of hot waters that rises not far from it In the morning I pass'd over a fair and long Causey call'd Pouligor being above 500 paces long and 15 broad divided also by certain Bridges to give the water free passage by reason the Country is very full of mershes At the end of this Causey stands an Inn very well built but the gants that haunt it will not suffer it to be frequented I pass'd along by the foot of a Mountain and after three hours travel I stopp'd a while at an Inn that stands at the foot of another steep and craggie mountain I arriv'd at Schiras about six a clock at night But here give me leave before I enter the City to make two observations the one touching the Road from Ispahan to Schiras the other concerning the ruins of Tche-elminar As to the Road from Ispahan to Schiras observe that in winter time when the Snow is fallen when you come to Yesdecas you must of necessity leave the direct road because it is impossible to pass the streights of those Mountains which I have mention'd Therefore you must keep the left hand road eastward through the Plains taking a guide along with you This way which is the longer by two days journey was formerly unknown because of a River that in one place beats upon a steep rock and closes up the passage But Iman-Kouli-Kan with a vast expence of time and money caus'd a way to be levell'd out of the Rock about 15 or 20 foot above the River which he secur'd to the water-side with a Wall three or four foot high This way continues for half a league and then you come to lye at a great Village in a Plain where you take Guides to shew you the Fords of the River Having past the River you cross over several fertil Plains water'd with great store of Rivers Then you ascend a Mountain from whence you have but a league and a half to Tche-clminar At the point of the Mountain upon the right-hand of the great Road are to be seen twelve Pillars still standing that form a kind of a square In the spaces of the Mountain
are a great number of Niches that are opposit to the Pillars and were certainly the places where the ancient Persians put their Idols Thence you come to Tche-elminar where are to be seen a great many old Columns some standing and some lying upon the ground and some ill-shap'd Statues with little four-square dark rooms All which together easily perswades me who have well consider'd the principal Pagods of Iudia that Tche-elminar was only a Temple formerly dedicated to Idolatrous worship And that which confirms my opinion is that there is no place more proper for an Idolatrous Temple then this by reason of the abundance of water Besides that the dark Rooms could be no other then the Chambers for the Priests and where the Rice and Fruits that were the feigned nourishment of the Idols were the better secur'd from goats and flies Leaving Tche-elminar you come to lye at a Village half a league farther where is very good Wine From thence to Schiras is a hard days journey especially when the Snow begins to melt for then the Road looks like a little Sea CHAP. XXI Of the City of Schiras THE City of Schiras lies in 78 degr 15 min. of Longitude and 29 deg 36 min. of Latitude It is seated in a Plain that extends it self about four leagues from the North to the South and from the West to the East about five leagues Upon the South-east there is a Lake of salt water four leagues in compass leaving the Plain as you travel to the South you pass between two Mountains which are not so close but that they leave room for certain pleasant Valleys a league and a half wide The Soil about Schiras is good and fruitful and it is particularly famous for the most excellent Wines of all Persia. As for the City it self there is nothng handsome in it for it looks rather like a Town half ruin'd then a City Formerly it was begirt with walls of Earth which are now utterly decaid The Houses are of the same Earth dri'd in the Sun and whiten'd over with lime so that when it happens to rain when the Earth comes to be well moisten'd the Houses fall of themselves Only the Colledg which Iman-Kouli-Kan built and some of the Mosquees are are of Brick and the best of those Mosquees is call'd Sha-Shiraque which out of a particular devotion is kept somewhat better in repair However there is nothing in it worth taking notice of Upon the Northeast side the City runs within a quarter of a league of the Mountain and from a Stone-bridg as you go out of the City to the foot of the Mountain is a long Street in a streight line where there stands a Mosquee built by Iman-Kouli-Kan Without it appears fair enough but within it falls to ruine There is an Octogonal Piazza before the Gate and in the middle of the Piazza an Octogonal Vase which is fill'd by a little stream that runs through the Street from the Mountain Both sides of the Street from the Mosquee to the Mountain are wall'd in and at certain spaces are great Gates one against another with rooms over them the Windows whereof open into the Gardens behind the walls all along by which runs a row of Cypress-trees in a direct line and in the middle of the Street about two hunder'd paces on this side the Mosquee is another Vase which receives the same water as it runs from the Mountain This Street was made by Iman-Kouli-Kan after he had cut the Mountain at the end of it to shorten the way from Schiras to Ispahan There are in Schiras three or four Glass-houses where they make great and small Bottles to transport the Sweet-waters that are made in the City There are also made the several sorts of Vessels wherein they pickle their fruits of all sorts which they send in great quantities into India to Sumatra Batavia and other places There is no Silk made nor any other manufacture in Schiras only there are some few Chites or Painted-cloaths made there which nevertheless are very coarse and in use only among the meaner sort As you go out of the City upon the North-west side you meet with a long Alley or Walk in three parts whereof are plac'd three Stones which they call Mills At the end of this walk is a Garden call'd Bay-Sha or the King's Garden Over the Gate whereof is a great Room half ruin'd and at the end of a large Walk planted with Cypress-trees stands a neat piece of building but altogether neglected Upon the left-hand whereof is a great Pond pav'd with Free-stone being all the beauties of the Garden which it is true was full of Fruit-trees Roses and Jasmins yet for want of order it look'd like a Wilderness From the Garden to the Hill is a Plain of two leagues long and one broad which is all but one large Vinyard belonging to several persons Beyond the Vinyard rise very high Mountains from whence fall several little Springs that form a River which is call'd Bend-Emir from the name of a Town where the biggest Spring rises This River of Bend-Emir waters the whole Vineyard of Schiras where it never rains from Spring till Autumn which is the reason that in the Summer there is no water in the very Channel next the City Their Wines are the best in Persia but there is not so great a quantity made as people imagin For of all this great Vineyard and in all the places round about the City for four or five leagues together good part of the Grapes are dri'd and a greater quantity pickl'd and of the Wine there are many Vessels full which are burnt for the benefit of the poor Travellers and Carriers who find it a great refreshment to drink it with water Their Wine as all other things is sold by weight and not by measure In the year 1666 a most plentiful year for Wine the Provision of the King's House amounted to 50000 Mens of Keukné or the ancient Men containing nine pound of ours at sixteen ounces to the pound being the only weight for Wine and the King allows as much to the Franks as for his own Houshold The Jews of Schiras who boast themselves of the Tribe of Levi make above a hunder'd and ten thousand Mens it being their chiefest livelihood but the Governour of Schiras knows how to share with them in their profit The whole account of Wine made at Schiras amounts to 200025 Mens or 4125 Tuns at three hunder'd pints to the Tun. In Schiras is an ancient Mosquee wherein is the Sepulcher of a Sadi whom the Persians esteem the best of their Poets It has been a very fair one accompani'd with a large Building which was once a Colledg but it runs to ruine as do also many other Edifices within the City Just against this Mosquee you descend by a pair of Stairs into a large Well at the bottom whereof is a Vase full of Fish which no-body dares to touch it being Sacriledg
left-hand way is a dangerous passage and a kind of a continu'd Labyrinth among Rocks and Precipices The right-hand way which is the best is all upon the sand to Bander-Abassi and is usually a days journey You meet with two Inns by the way the last of which is call'd Bend-Ali built by the Sea-side From Ben-Ali to Bander-Abassi is but a little more then two leagues through a Countrey abounding in Palm-trees CHAP. XXIII Of the Island of Ormus and of Bander-Abassi ORmus is an Island in 92. d. 42. m. of Longitude and in 25. d. 30. m. of Latitude It lies at the mouth of the Persian Gulph two good Leagues from the firm Land There is neither tree nor herb that grows in it for it is all over cover'd with Salt which is very good and as white as snow And as for the black shining Sand-dust of Ormus it is very much us'd for standishes Before the Portugueses came to Ormus there was a City where the Kings of Ormus who were also Kings of Larr resided When the Portugals took it there were in it two young Princes Sons of the deceased King whom they carri'd into Spain Where in regard they were handsomely proportion'd though somewhat swarthy the King entertain'd them very kindly and gave them an honourable allowance One day that he had shew'd them the Escurial and all the chief pieces of Architecture in Madrid the King ask'd them what they thought of living in Spain To whom they answer'd that they had seen nothing but what was worthy admiration but then fetching a deep sigh and perceiving the King desirous to know the meaning of it they gave him to understand that it was for grief that they must never more sit under their own Tree For near to the City of Ormus was a Bannians tree being the only tree that grew in the Island The Portugals being masters of the Island from an ill-built City rear'd it to that hight of Magnificence which that Nation admires so that the very barrs of their doors and windows were all guilt The Fortress was a noble thing and in good repair and they had also a stately Church dedicated to the Virgin where they were also wont to walk For other place of promenading they had none Since the Persians took it the Castle indeed stands in good repair with a Garrison in it but the City is gone to ruine for the Dutch carried most of the stones away to build Battavia Between the Island of Ormus and the Continent the Sea is not very deep for the great ships that sail in and out of the Gulf pass by the other side of the Island As for the Fortress which stands upon a poynt of the Island it is almost encompass'd with the Sea and lyes right over against Persia. Bander Abassi so call'd because the great Sha-Abbas the first brought it into reputation is at present a City reasonably well built and stor'd with large warehouses over which are the lodgings of the Merchants While the Portugueses kept Ormus though they liv'd in the City all the trade was at Bandar-Abassi as being the most secure Landing-place upon all the Coast. About 15 years ago it was an op'n town but because it was an easie thing then to get into the Town and rob the Custome-house in the night it has bin since enclos'd with walls To this place come all the ships that bring Commodities from India for Persia Turkie or any part of Asia or Europe And indeed it would be much more frequented by the Merchants from all Regions and Countries But the Air of Bander is so unwholesome and so hot that no strangers can live there in probability of health unless it be in the months of December January February and March though the Natives of the Country may perhaps stay without prejudice to the end of April After that they retire to the cooler Mountains two or three days journey off for five or six months where they eat what they gain'd before They that venture to stay at Gomron during the hot weather get a malignant Fever which if they scape death is hardly ever cur'd However it bequeaths the yellow Jaundies during life to the party March being pass'd the wind changes and blowing at west south west in a short time it grows so hot and so stifling that it almost takes away a mans breath This wind is by the Arabians call'd El-Samiel or the poysonous wind by the Persians Bade-Sambour because it suffocates and kills presently The flesh of them that are thus stifl'd feels like a glewie fat and as if they had been dead a month before In the year 1632. riding from Ispahan to Bagdat I and four more Persian Merchants had bin stifl'd but for some Arabians that were in our Company For when they perceiv'd the wind they caus'd us to light lye down upon our bellies and cover our selves with our Cloaks We lay so for half an hour and then rising we saw our horses were in such a sweat that they were hardly able to carry us This happen'd to us two days journey from Bagdat But this is observable that if a man be in a Boat upon the water when the same wind blows it does no harm though he were naked at the same time Sometimes the wind is so hot that it burns like Lightning And as the Air of Gomron is so bad and dangerous the soil is worth nothing For it is nothing but Sand nor is the water in the Cisterns very good They that will be at the charge fetch their water from a fountain three leagues from Bander call'd the water of Issin Formerly there was not an herb to be seen but by often watering the ground Lettice Radish and Onions have begun to grow The People are swarthy and wear nothing about them but only a single shirt Their usual dyet is dates and fish Which is almost the dyet of their Cattel for when they come home from browsing the barren bushes they give them the heads and guts of their fish boyl'd with the kernels of the Dates which they eat The Sea of Bander produces good Soles good Smelts and Pilchards They that will have oysters must have 'em caught on purpose for the people eat none Upon Land they want neither for wine of Schiras nor Yesd nor for Mutton Pigeons and Partridge which are their ordinary dyet There are two Fortresses one upon the East the other toward the West The Town increases in trade and building and fills with inhabitants who build their houses with the remaining ruins of Ormus The reason why the Trade is settl'd rather at Bander Abassi then at Bander Congo where the Air is good and the Water excellent is because that between Ormus and Congo lie several Islands which make the passage for ships dangerous besides that the often change and veering of the wind is requir'd neither indeed is there water enough for a Vessel of 20 or 25 guns Then the way from Congo to Lar is very
Grace in Paris it is cover'd within and without with black Marble the middle being of Brick Under this Cupola is an empty Tomb for the Begum is inter'd under the Arch of the lowest Platform The same change of Ceremonies which is observ'd under ground is observ'd above For they change the Tapestries Candles and other Ornaments at several times and there are always Mollah's attending to pray I saw the beginning and compleating of this great work that colt two and twenty years labour and twenty thousand men always at work so that you cannot conceive but that the Expence must be excessive Cha-jehan had begun to raise his own Monument on the other side of the River but the Wars with his Son broke off that design nor did Aurengzeb now reigning ever take any care to finish it There is an Eunuch who commands two thousand men that is entrusted to guard not only the Sepulcher of the Begum but also the Tasimacan On another side of the City appears the Sepulcher of King Akabar And as for the Sepulchers of the Eunuchs they have only one Platform with four little Chambers at the four Corners When you come to Agra from Dehly you meet a great Bazar near to which there is a Garden where King Jehan-guire Father of Cha-jehan lies interr'd Over the Garden Gate you see the Tomb it self beset with Portraitures cover'd with a black Hearse-Cloath or Pall with Torches of white Wax and two Jesuits attending at each end There are some who wonder that Cha-jehan against the practice of the Mahumetans who abhor Images did permit of carving but the reason conjectur'd at is that it is done upon the consideration that his Father and himself learnt from the Jesuites certain principles of Mathematicks and Astrology Though he had not the same kindness for them at another time for going one day to visit an Armenian that lay sick whose name was Corgia whom he lov'd very well and had honour'd with several Employments at what time the Jesuites who liv'd next to the Armenians house rang their Bell the sound thereof so displeas'd the King as being a disturbance to the sick person that in a great fury he commanded the Bell to be taken away and hung about his Elephants neck Some few days after the King seeing his Elephant with that great Bell about his neck fearing so great a weight might injure his Elephant caus'd the Bell to be carried to the Couteval which is a kind of a rail'd place where a Provost sits as a Judg and decides differences among the people of that Quarter where it has hung ever since This Armenian had been brought up with Cha-jehan and in regard he was an excellent Wit and an excellent Poet he was very much in the Kings favour who had confer'd upon him many fair Commands though he could never either by threats or promises win him to turn Mahometan CHAP. VIII The Road from Agra to Patna and Daca Cities in the Province of Bengala and of the Quarrel which the Author had with Cha-Est-Kan the King's Unckle I Departed from Agra toward Bengala the 25 th of November 1665 and that day I reach'd no farther than a very bad Inn distant from Agra costes 3 The 26 th I came to Beruzabad costes 9 This is a little City where at my return I received eight thousand Roupies being the remainder of the Money which Giafer-Kan ow'd me for Wares that he had bought at Janabat The 27 th to Serael Morlides costes 9 The 28 th to Serail Estanja costes 14 The 29 th to Serail Haii-mal costes 12 The 30 th to Serail Sekandera costes 13 The 1 st of December to Sanqual costes 14 I met that day 110 Waggons every Waggon drawn by sixOxen in every Waggon 50000 Roupies This is the Revenue of the Province of Bengala with all charges defraid and the Governor's Purse well-fill'd comes to 5500000 Roupies A league beyond Sanqual you must pass a River call'd Saingour which runs into Gemine not above half a league distant from it You pass over this River of Saingour upon a Stone-bridg and when you come from toward Bengala to go to Seronge or Surat if you have a mind to shorten your journey ten days you must leave Agra-Road and come to this Bridg and so Ferry over Gemine in a Boat But generally Agra-Road is taken because the other way you must travel five or six days together upon the stones and also for that you are to pass through the Territories of certain Raja's where you are in danger of being robb'd The second day I came to an Inn call'd Cherourabad costes 12 When you are got about half the way you pass through Gianabad a little City near to which about a quarter of a League on this side crossing a Field of Millet I saw a Rhinoceros feeding upon Millet-Canes which a little Boy of nine or ten years old gave him to eat When I came near the Boy he gave me some Millet to give the Rhinoceros who immediately came to me opening his chops three or four times I put the Millet into his mouth and when he had swallow'd it he still open'd his mouth for more The 3 d I came to Serrail Chajeada costes 10 The 4 th to Serrail Atakan costes 13 The 5 th to Aureng-Abad costes 9 Formerly this Village had another name but being the place where Aureng-zeb gave Battel to his Brother Sultan Sujah who was Governor of all the Province of Bengala Aureng-zeb in Memory of the Victory he had won gave it his own name and built there a very fair House with a Garden and a little Mosquee The 6 th to Alinchan costes 9 Two leagues on this side Alinchan you meet the River Ganges Monsieur Bernier the King's Physitian and another person whose name was Rachepot with whom I travell'd were amaz'd to see that a River that had made such a noise in the World was no broader than the River Seine before the Lovre believing before that it had been as wide as the Danaw above Belgrade There is also so little water in it from March to June or July when the rains fall that it will not bear a small Boat When we came to Ganges we drank every one of us a Glass of Wine mixing some of the River-water with it which caus'd a griping in our bellies But our Servants that drank it alone were worse tormented than we The Hollanders who have an House upon the Bank of Ganges never drink the water of this River until they have boil'd it But for the natural Inhabitants of the Countrey they are so accustom'd to it from their youth that the King and the Court drink no other You shall see a vast number of Camels every day whose business only it is to fetch water from the Ganges The 7 th I came to Halabas costes 8 Halabas is a great City built upon a point of Land where Ganges and Gemine meet There is a fair Castle of hew'n Stone
with a double Moat where the Governour resides He is one of the greatest Lords in India and being very sickly he has always about him ten Persian Physicians He had also in his service Claudius Maille of Bourges who practises Chyrurgery and Physick both together This was he that advis'd us not to drink of Ganges Water which would put us into a looseness but rather to drink Well-water The chief of these Persian Physicians whom this Governour hires with his Money one day threw his Wife from the top of a Battlement to the ground prompted to that act of cruelty by some jealousies he had entertain'd He thought the fall had kill'd her but she had only a Rib or two bruis'd whereupon the Kindred of the Woman came and demanded justice at the feet of the Governour The Governour sending for the Physician commanded him to be gone resolving to retain him no longer in his service The Physician obey'd and putting his maim'd Wife in a Pallanquin he set forward upon the Road with all his Family But he was not gone above three or four days journey from the City when the Governour finding himself worse than he was wont to be sent to recall him which the Physician perceiving stab'd his Wife his four Children and thirteen female Slaves and return'd again to the Governour who said not a word to him but entertain'd him again into his service The eighth day I cross'd the River in a large Boat having stay'd from morning till noon upon the bank-side expecting Monsieur Maille to bring me a Passport from the Governour For there stands a Deroga upon each side of the River who will not suffer any person to pass without leave and he takes notice what sort of Goods are transported there being due from every Waggon four Roupies and from every Coach one not accounting the charge of the Boat which you must pay beside The same day I went to Sadoul-serail costes 16 The ninth to Yakedel-sera costes 10 The tenth to Bouraki-sera costes 10 The eleventh to Banarou costes 10 Banarou is a large City and handsomly built the most part of the Houses being either of Brick or Stone and higher than in any other Cities of India but the inconveniency is that the Streets are very narrow There are many Inns in the Town among the rest one very large and very handsomely built In the middle of the Court are two Galleries where are to be sold Calicuts Silks and other sorts of Merchandise The greatest part of the Sellers are the Workmen themselves so that the Merchants buy at the first hand These Workmen before they expose any thing to sale must go to him that has the stamp to have the Kings Seal set upon their Linnen and Silks otherwise they would be fin'd and lambasted with a good Cudgel This City is scituated upon the North side of Ganges that runs by the Walls and into which there falls also another River some two Leagues upward toward the West In Banarou stands one of the Idolaters principal Pagods whereof I shall speak in my second Book when I come to treat of the Religion of the Banians About five hundred paces from the City Northward there is a Mosquee where are to be seen many Mahometan Sepulehers whereof some are very curious pieces of Architecture The fairest are every one in the middle of a Garden enclosed with Walls wherein there are Holes some half a foot square through which Passengers may have a sight of the Tomb within The most considerable of all is as it were a four square Pedestal every square whereof is forty paces wide In the midst of this Platform rises a Column thirty-two or thirty-five foot high all of a piece which three men can hardly embrace The Stone is of a grey colour and so hard that I could not scrape it with my Knife As it is Pyramidical there is a great Bowl at the top which is encompass'd at the upper end with huge Grains of Wheat All the fronts of the Tomb are full of figures of Animals cut in the Stone and it has been higher above ground than now it seems to be for several old men that look'd to some of the Sepulchers assur'd me that within these fifty years it had sunk above thirty foot into the Earth They tell you moreover that it is the Sepulcher of one of the Kings of Boutan who was interr'd here after he had left his own Countrey to conquer this Kingdom out of which he was driven by the Successors of Tamerlane The Kingdom of Boutan is the place from whence they fetch Musk and I will give you a description of it in my third Book I stay'd at Banarou the 12 th and 13 th and during those two days it rain'd continually but not so as to stop my journey so that the evening of the thirteenth day I cross'd the Ganges with the Governours Pass-port Before you go into the Boat they search the Travellers baggage wearing Apparel however pays nothing of Custom but only Merchandise The 13 th I went to Baterpour costes 2 The 14 th to Satraguy-sera costes 8 The 15 th to Moniarky-sera costes 9 The same day in the morning after I had travel'd two Leagues I cross'd a River call'd Carnasarsou and three Leagues from thence I cross'd another which they call Saode-sou both which I foarded The 16 th to Gourmabad costes 8 This is a Town upon a River call'd Goudera-sou which is cross'd over a Stone-Bridg The 17 th to Saseron costes 4 Saseron is a City at the foot of certain Mountains near to which there is a great Lake In the middle whereof there is a small Island with a fair Mosquee built upon it wherein is to be seen the Sepulcher of a Nahab or Favourite call'd Selim-Kan who built it when he was Governour of the Province There is a fair Bridg to cross over into the Island pav'd and lin'd with large free Stone Upon one side of the Lake is a great Garden in the middle whereof is another fair Sepulcher of the Son of the same Nahab Selim-Kan who succeeded his Father in the Government of the Province If you would go to the Mine of Soulmelpour whereof I shall speak in the last Book of these Relations you must leave the great Road to Patna and bend to the South through Exberbourgh and the famous Fortress of Rhodes of which I shall treat in the same place The 18 th I ferry'd in a Boat over the River Sonsou which descends from the Southern Mountains after you have cross'd it the Merchandise pays a certain Toll The same day I travel'd on to Daoud-Nagar-sera where there is a fair Tomb costes 9 The 19 th to Halva-sera costes 10 The 20 th to Aga-sera costes 9 In the morning I met a hundred and thirty Elephants great and small which they were leading to Dehli to the great Mogul The one and twentienth to Patna costes 10 Patna is one of the greatest Cities of India upon the
Bank of Ganges toward the West not being less than two Leagues in length But the Houses are no fairer than in the greatest part of the other Cities of India being cover'd with Bambouck or Straw The Holland Company have a House there by reason of their Trade in Saltpeter which they refine at a great Town call'd Choupar which is also scituated upon Ganges ten Leagues above Patna Coming to Patna we met the Hollanders in the Street returning from Choupar who stop'd our Coaches to salute us We did not part till we had emptied two Bottles of Sohiras Wine in the open Street which is not taken notice of in that Country where people meet with an entire freedom without any Ceremony I stay'd eight days at Patna during which time there fell out an accident which will let the Reader understand that Sodomy does not go altogether unpunish'd among the Mahumetans A Mimbachi who commanded a thousand Foot went about to abuse a young Boy in his service and who had several times resisted his attempts complaining also to the Governour and telling him withall that if his Master persisted to urge him any more he would certainly kill him At length the Captain took his opportunity at a House which he had in the Country and forc'd the Boy The Boy o'rewhelm'd with grief and rage took his opportunity also to revenge himself and being one day hunting with his Master about a quarter of a League from any of his other Servants he got behind him and cleft his head with his Hanger After he had done he rode full speed to the City crying out all the way that he had kill'd his Master for such a reason and went immediately to the Governours Lodging who sent him to prison but he let him out at the end of six months and notwithstanding all the endeavours which the Captains Kindred us'd to have had him put to death the Governour durst not condemn him for fear of the people who affirm'd that the Boy had done well I parted from Patna in a Boat for Daca the nine and twentieth of January between eleven and twelve at noon and had the River been deep as it uses to be after the Rains I had taken Boat at Hallabas or at least at Banarou The same day I came to lye at sera-Beconcour costes 15 Five Leagues on this side Beconcour you meet with a River call'd Pomponsou which comes from the South and falls into Ganges The thirtieth to Sera-d ' Erija costes 17 The one and thirtieth after we had travel'd four Leagues or thereabout we met with the River Kaoa which comes from the South Three Leagues lower you meet with another River call'd Chanon which comes from the North. Four Leagues farther you discover the River Erguga which runs from the South and at length six Leagues beyond the River Aquera falling from the same part of the World all which four Rivers lose their Names in the Ganges All that day I saw great Mountains toward the South distant from Ganges sometimes ten and sometimes fifteen Leagues till at length I came to lodg in Monger-City costes 18 The first day of January 1666 after I had gone by Water two hours I saw the Gandet fall into the Ganges flowing from the North. This is a great River that carries Boats That eveining I lay at Zangira costes 8 But in regard of the winding of Ganges all that days journey I might well reckon them by Water two and twenty Leagues The second day from between six in the morning till eleven I saw three Rivers that threw themselves into Ganges all three descending from the North. The first is call'd Ronova the second Then the third Ghanan I came to lye at Baquelpour costes 18 The third after four hours upon the Ganges I met the River Katare which comes from the North and lay at a Village call'd Pongangel at the foot of certain Mountains that descend to Ganges it self costes 13 The fourth an hours rowing beyond Pongangel I met a great River call'd Mart-Nadi coming from the South and I lay at Rage-Mehale costes 6 Rage-Mehale is a City upon the right hand of Ganges and if you go by Land you shall find the high-way for a League or two pav'd with Brick to the Town Formerly the Governours of Bengala resided here it being an excellent Country for hunting besides that it was a place of great Trade But now the River having taken another course above a good half League from the City as well for that reason as to keep in awe the King of Aracan and several Portuguese Banditi who are retir'd to the mouths of Ganges and made excursions even as far as Daca it self both the Governour and the Merchants have remov'd themselves to Daca which is at present a large City and a Town of great Trade The sixth being arriv'd at a considerable Town call'd Donapour six Leagues from Rage-Mehale I parted with Monsieur Bernier who was going to Casenbasar and thence to Ogouli by Land for when the River is low there is no going by Water by reason of a great Bank of Sand that lies before a City call'd Santiqui I lay that night at Toutipour distant from Rage-mehale costes 12 I saw there at Sun-rising a great number of Crocodiles lying upon the Sand. The seventh I came to Acerat costes 25 From Acerat to Daca it is counted by Land forty-five Leagues All that day I saw such a vast number of Crocodiles that I had a great desire to shoot at one to try whether the vulgar report were true that a Musket-shot would not pierce their skin The bullet hit him in the jaw and made the blood gush out however he would not stay in the place but plung'd into the River The eighth I saw again a great number lying upon the bank of the River and made two shot at two with three bullets at a time As soon as they were wounded they turn'd themselves upon their backs opening their throats and di'd upon the spot That day I came to lie at Douloudia costes 17 The Crows were here the cause that we found a very fair Fish which the Fisher-men had hid among the Osiers by the side of the River for when our Water-men saw the Crows in great numbers hovering and making an hideous noise about the Osiers they presently conjectur'd that there was something more than ordinary and they made so diligent a search that at length they found an excellent dish of meat The ninth two hours after noon we met with a River call'd Chativor that runs from the North and we lay at Dampour costes 16 The tenth we lay by the River-side in a place remote from Houses and we travell'd that day costes 15 The eleventh toward evening being come to that part where Ganges divides it self into three Arms whereof one runs to Daca we lay at a large Town upon the entry of the great Channel which Town is call'd Jatrapour costes 20 They that have no
I made five journeys more in my Travels in the year 1653. And I also took another Road from Piplenar where I arriv'd the eleventh of March setting out from Surat the sixth The twelfth to Birgam The thirteenth to Omberat The fourteenth to Enneque-Tenque a strong Fortress that bears the name of two Indian Princesses It stands upon a Mountain steep every way there being but one ascent to it upon the East-side Within the enclosed compass of the Walls there is a large Pond and Ground enough to sow for the maintenance of five or six-hunder'd men But the King keeps no Garrison therein so that it falls to ruine The fifteenth to Geroul The sixteenth to Lazour where you are to cross a River upon which about a Cannons-shot from the fording place are to be seen several large Pagods of the Countrey whither great numbers of Pilgrims repair every day The seventeenth to Aureng-abad The eighteenth to Pipelgan or Piply The nineteenth to Ember The Twentieth to Devgan The one and twentieth to Patris The two and twentieth to Bargan The three and twentieth to Palam The four and twentieth to Candear a large Fortress but upon one side commanded by an high Mountain The five and twentieth to Gargan The six and twentieth to Nagooni The seven and twentieth to Indove The eight and twentieth to Indelvai The nine and twentieth to Regivali Between these two last places there is a little River which separates the Territories of the Great Mogul from the Dominions of the King of Golconda The thirtieth to Masapkipet The one and thirtietieth to Mirel-mola-kipet To go from Agra to Golconda you must go to Brampour according to the Road already describ'd from Brampour to Dultabat which is five or six days journeys off and from Dultabat to those other places before set down You may also take another Road to go from Surat to Golconda that is to say through Goa and Visapour as I shall inform you in the particular relation of my journey to Goa I come now to what is most worthy observation in the Kingdom of Golconda And to relate what happen'd in the last Wars the King maintain'd against his Neighbours during the time that I have known the Indies CHAP. X. Of the Kingdom of Golconda and the Wars which it has maintain'd for some few years last past THE whole Kingdom of Golconda take it in general is a good Countrey abounding in Corn Rice Cattel Sheep Poultry and other necessaries for human life In regard there are great store of Lakes in it there is also great store of Fish Above all the rest there is a sort of Smelt that has but one bone in the middle which is most delicious food Nature has contributed more than Art toward the making these Lakes whereof the Countrey is full which are generally in places somewhat rais'd so that you need do no more than make a little Dam upon the plain-side to keep in the water These Dams or Banks are sometimes half a league long and after the rainy seasons are over they open the Sluces from time to time to let out the water into the adjacent Fields where it is receiv'd by divers little Channels to water particular grounds Bagnagar is the name of the Metropolis of this Kingdom but vulgarly it is call'd Golconda from the name of a Fortress not above two leagues distant from it where the King keeps his Court. This Fortress is about two leagues in circuit and by consequence requires a numerous Guard It is as it were a Town where the King keeps his Treasure having left Bagnagar ever since it was sack'd by the Army which Aureng-zeb brought against it Bagnagar is then the City which they vulgarly call Golconda and it was founded by the Great Grandfather of the present King upon the importunity of one of his Wives whom he passionately lov'd whose name was Nagar Before that it was only a place of Pleasure where the King had very fair Gardens till at length his Wife continually representing to him the delicacies of the situation for the building a City and a Palace by reason of the River he laid the foundations and order'd that it should bear the name of his Wife calling it Bag-Nagar that is to say the Garden of Nagar This City lies in seventeen degrees of Elevation wanting two minutes The Countrey round about is a flat Countrey only neer the City are several Rocks as you see about Fontain-Bleau A great River washes the Walls of the City upon the South-west-side which neer to Maslipatan falls into the Gulf of Bengala At Bagnagar you cross this River over a Bridg no less beautiful than Pont-Neus at Paris The City is little less than Orleans well-built and full of windows There are many fair large Streets but not being well-pav'd they are dusty as are all the Cities of Persia and India which is very offensive in the Summer Before you come to the Bridg you must pass through a large Suburb call'd Erengabad about a league in length where live all the Merchants the Brokers Handicraft-Trades and in general all the meaner sort of people the City being inhabited only by persons of Quality Officers of the King's House Ministers of Justice and Officers of the Army From ten or eleven in the forenoon till four or five in the evening the Merchants Brokers and Workmen come into the City to trade with the Forreign Merchants after which time they return to their own Houses In the Suburb are two or three fair Mosquees which serve for Inns for the Forreigners besides several Pagods in the Neighbouring-parts Through the same Suburb lies the way to the Fortress of Golconda So soon as you are over the Bridg you enter into a large Street that leads you to the King's Palace On the right-hand are the Houses of some Lords of the Court and four or five Inns two Stories-high wherein there are fair Halls and large Chambers to let in the fresh Air. At the end of this Street there is a large Piazza upon which stands one of the sides of the Palace in the middle whereof there is a Balcone wherein the King comes to sit when he pleases to give Audience to the People The great Gate of the Palace stands not upon this Piazza but upon another very neer adjoyning and you enter first into a large Court surrounded with Portico's under which lies the King's Guards Out of this Court you pass into another built after the same form encompast with several fair Apartments the Roofs whereof are terrass'd Upon which as upon those where the Elephants are kept there are very fair Gardens wherein there grow Trees of that bigness that it is a thing of great wonder how those Arches should bear so vast a burthen About fifty years since they began to build a magnificent Pagod in the City which would have been the fairest in all India had it been finish'd The Stones are to be admir'd for their bigness And that
pens These Pencils did him a great kindness For the Maltese calling for such a deal of Tobacco which is always cut and ti'd up in white-paper for the profit of the seller who weighs both Tobacco and Paper together these Papers Father Ephraim kept very charily and with his Pencil wrote therein whatever he had studi'd at any time though he lost the sight of one of his eyes through the darkness of the Chamber which had but one window half a foot square and barr'd with iron They would never so much as lend him a Book or let him have an end of Candle but us'd him as bad as a certain Miscreant that had been twice let out already with his Shirt sulphur'd and a St. Andrews-Cross upon his stomach in company with those that are lead to the Gallows and was then come in again Father Ephraim having staid 15 days in the Convent of the Capuchins to recover his strength after 20 months imprisonment return'd for Madrespatan and passing through Golconda went to return his humble thanks to the King of Golcolda and his Son-in-law who had so highly interess'd themselves for his liberty The King importun'd him again to stay at Bagnagar but seeing him resolv'd to return to his Convent at Madrespatan they gave him as before an Oxe two Servants and Money for his journey CHAP. XVI The Road from Goa to Maslipatan through Cochin here describ'd in the story of the taking of that City by the Hollanders AFter the Dutch had dispossess'd the Portugals of whatever they had in Ceylan they cast their eyes upon Cochin in the Territories whereof grows the Bastard Cinnamon which hinder'd the utterance of Ceylan Cinnamon For the Merchants seeing that the Hollanders kept up their Cinnamon so dear bought up that of Cochin which they had very cheap and that coming into request was transported to Gomron and distributed there among the Merchants that came from Persia from Tartary from Moscovia from Georgia Mingrela and all the places upon the black Sea It was also carried away in great quantities by the Merchants of Balsara and Bagdat who furnish Arabia as also by the Merchants of Mesopotamia Anatolia Constantinople Romania Hungary and Poland For in all those Countries they use it either whole or beaten in most of their meats to heighten the taste thereof The Army which was commanded out of Batavia for the Siege of Cochin landed at a place call'd Belli-Porto where the Hollanders had a Fort made of Palm-Trees It is near to Cranganor a small City which the Hollanders took the year before not being able to take Cochin then though they had made some attempts upon it So soon as the Army landed they murch'd within Cannon-shot of the City there being a River between them and the City That part where the Hollanders encamp'd is call'd Belle-Epine where after they had fortifi'd themselves as well as the Nature of the place would permit they rais'd some Batteries which could not much annoy the City by reason of the distance They lay there till they had recruits of more men for they had but three Ships full though he that commanded them were one of the bravest Captains of his time Some few days after the Governour of Amboyna arriv'd with two Ships more and afterwards a Dutch Captain brought a great number of Chinglas who are the Natives of the Island of Ceylan For the Forces of the Hollander would not be so considerable as they are did they not make use of the Natives of the Country to fill up the Companies which they bring out of Europe The Natives of Ceylan are good for digging Trenches and raising Batteries but for a Storm they signifie little Those of Amboyna are good Soldiers four hundred of which were left at Belle-Epine The Body of the Army took Shipping again and landed near to Cochin not far from a Church dedicated to St. Andrew where the Portugals with certain Malavares seem'd to have stay'd ashore for the Hollanders coming But seeing the Enemy to land with so much resolution they only gave them one Volly and retreated In their March the Hollanders descry'd certain Companies of Portugueses near the Sea-shore others somewhat farther up in the Land in a Church call'd St. Johns Thereupon they sent out some Horsemen to discover their number but the Portugals still retreated after they had set fire to the Church Thereupon the Hollanders made their approaches to the Town and after they had besieg'd it for some time a French Soldier who was under their pay seeing a Pannier ty'd at the end of a Cord hanging over one of the Bastions ventur'd notwithstanding all the Bullets that flew about his Ears to see what was in it But he was strangely surpriz'd to find nothing but a languishing infant which the Mother had hung there that she might not see it perish for hunger The Soldier mov'd to compassion took the Infant and gave it such as he had to eat at which the Dutch General was so incens'd saying that the Soldier should have let the Infant perish that he call'd a Council of War where he would have had the Soldier run the Gauntlet which was very cruel but the Council moderating the sentence condemn'd him only to the Strappado The same day ten Soldiers out of every Company were commanded to go to one of the Houses of the King of Cochin but they found no body there having plunder'd it the year before At which time the Hollanders slew four Kings of the Country and six hundred Blacks nor did there escape but only one ancient Queen who was taken alive by a common Soldier call'd Van Rez whom the Commander of the Army made a Captain immediately for his reward They left one Company in that House but the Queen stay'd there but six days for they gave her into the custody of Savarin one of the most potent of the petty Kings upon that Coast to whom the Hollanders had promis'd to give the City of Cranganor if they took Cochim provided he would be faithful to them Six weeks pass'd ere any thing considerable was done but then the Hollanders storming the Town by night were repuls'd and lost abundance of men slain and taken Prisoners through the Governour of Cranganors fault who commanded them and was drunk when the assault was made Two months after the General of the Hollanders resolv'd to make another assault in the same place and because he would not want men he sent for those that lay upon the side of Belle-epine But by misfortune the Frigat struck upon the Sands and splitting abundance of the Soldiers were drown'd They that could swim got to land near Cochin not finding any other place convenient and were all taken Prisoners by the Portugals being not above ten in all Soldiers and Mariners The General however would not give over the assault but causing the Sea-men to land he arm'd some with half-Pikes others with Swords to others he gave hand-Granadoes and about ten a Clock in
serves for the Priests Kitchin On the South-side there is a large Platform cut in the Mountain where there is a pleasing shade of many fair Trees and several Wells digg'd in the ground Pilgrims come far and near to this Pagod and if they be poor the Priests relieve them with what they receive from the rich that come there out of devotion The great Feast of this Pagod is in the month of October at which time there is a great concourse of people from all parts While we were there there was a Woman that had not stirr'd out of the Pagod for three days together and her prayer to the Idol was since she had lost her Husband to know what she should do to bring up her Children Thereupon asking one of the Priests wherefore she had no answer or whether she was to have any answer or no he told me that she must wait the pleasure of their God and that then he would give her an answer to what she expected Upon this I mistrusted some cheat and to discover it I resolv'd to go into the Pagod when all the Priests were absent at Dinner there being only one that stood at the Gate whom I sent to fetch me some water at a Fountain two or three Musket-shot from the place During that time I went in and the Woman hearing me redoubl'd her cries for there being no light in the Pagod but what comes in at the door it is very dark I felt my way to the Idol and by the glimmering light observ'd an hole behind the Idol I could not do this so quickly but that the Priest return'd before I had done He curst me for prophaning his Temple as he call'd it But we became suddenly very good friends by the mediation of two Roupies which I put into his hands whereupon he presently presented me with some of his Betlé The one and thirtieth we departed from Bezouart and past the River which runs to the Mine of Gani or Coulour It was then neer half a league broad by reason of the great rains which had fall'n continually for eight or nine days together After we had travell'd three leagues on the other side of the River we came to a great Pagod built upon a large Platform with an ascent of 15 or 20 steps Within it stood the Figure of a Cow all of very black-Marble and a number of deformed Idols four or five-foot-high some having many heads others many hands and legs and the most ugly are most ador'd and receive most Offerings A quarter of a league from this Pagod is a large Town but we travell'd three leagues farther and came to lie at another Town call'd Kab-Kali neer to which there is a small Pagod wherein there stand five or six Idols of Marble very well-made The first of August we came to a great City call'd Condevir with a double-Moat pav'd at the bottom with Free-stone The way to this Town is clos'd on each side with strong Walls and at such and such distances are built certain round Towers of little or no defence This City toward the East stretches out to a Mountain about a league in compass and surrounded with Walls At the distance of every 150 paces there is as it were an half-Moon and within the Walls are three Fortresses The second we travell'd six leagues and lay at a Village call'd Copenour The third day after we had travell'd eight leagues we came to Adanquige a very fair Town where there is a very large Pagod with abundance of Chambers which were built for the Priests but are now gone to ruine There are also in the Pagod certain Idols but very much maim'd which the people however very superstitiously adore The fourth we travell'd eight leagues and came to lie at the Town of Nosdrepar Half a league on this side there is a great River but at that time it had but little water in it by reason of the drowth The fifth after eight leagues journey we lay at Condecour The sixth we travell'd seven hours and lay at a Village call'd Dakije The seventh after three leagues journey we came to Nelour where there are many Pagods and having cross'd a great River a quarter of a league farther we travell'd six leagues and came to Gandaron The eighth after a journey of eight hours we lay at Serepelé a small Village The ninth we travell'd nine leagues and lay at a good Town call'd Ponter The tenth we travell'd eleven hours and lay at Senepgond another good Town The eleventh we went no farther than Palicat which is but four leagues from Senepgond and of those four leagues we travell'd above one in the Sea up to the Saddles of our Horses in water There is another way but it is the farther about by two or three leagues Palicat is a Fort that belongs to the Hollanders that live upon the Coast of Coromandel and where they have their chief Factory where lives also the chief Intendent over all the rest that are in the Territories of the King of Golconda There are usually within the Fort 200 Souldiers or thereabouts besides several Merchants that live there upon the account of Trade and several others who having serv'd the Company according to their agreement retire to that place There also dwell some of the Natives of the Countrey so that Palicat is now as it were a little Town Between the Town and the Castle there is a large distance of ground lest the Fort should be annoid by shot from the Town The Bastions are well-stor'd with good Guns And the Sea comes up to the very Wall of it but there is no Haven only a Road. We staid in the Town till the next day in the evening where we observ'd that when the Inhabitants fetch their water to drink they stay till the Sea is quite out and then digging holes in the Sand as neer the Sea as they can they meet with fresh-water The twelth we departed from Calicat and the next morning about ten of the clock we came to Madrespatan otherwise call'd Fort St. George which belongs to the English having travell'd not above seven or eight leagues that day We lay at the Covent of Capuchins at what time Father Ephraim and Father Zenon were both there The fifteenth we went to St. Thomas's Town to see the Austin-Friars and the Jesuits Church in the first whereof is an Iron-lance wherewith they say that St. Thomas was martyr'd The two and twentieth in the morning we departed from Madrespatan and after a journey of five leagues we arriv'd at a large Town call'd Serravaron The three and twentieth after 7 leagues travel we came to Oudecot the whole days journey being over a flat sandy Countrey On each side there are only Copses of Bambou's that grow very high Some of these Copses are so thick that it is impossible for a man to get into them but they are pester'd with prodigious numbers of Apes Those that breed in the Copses upon one side
Ragia-peta The twenty-eighth after eight leagues journey we came to Ondecour The twenty-ninth after nine hours travel we arriv'd at Outemeda where there is one of the greatest Pagods in all India It is all built of large Free-stone and it has three Towers where there stand several deform'd figures of Emboss'd-work It is encompast with many little Chambers for the Priests Lodgings five-hunder'd paces beyond there is a wide Lake upon the banks whereof are built several Pagods eight or ten-foot-square and in every one an Idol representing the shape of some Devil with a Brameré who takes care that no stranger that is not of their superstition shall come to wash or take any water out of the Lake If any stranger desires any water they bring it in earthen-pots and if by chance their pot touches the stranger's Vessel they break it immediately They told me also that if any stranger not of their superstition should happen by accident to wash in that Lake they must be forc'd to drain the Lake of all the water that was in at that time As for their Alms they are very charitable for there passes by no person in necessity or that begs of them but they give them to eat and drink of such as they have There are several Women that sit upon the Road whereof some of them always keep fire for Travellers to light their Tobacco by Nay they will give a Pipe to some that have none at all Others boil Rice with Quicheri which is a grain somewhat like our Hemp-seed Others boil Beans with their Rice because the water wherein they are boil'd never puts those that are over-hot into a Pleurify There are Women that have vow'd to perform these acts of Charity to strangers for seven or eight years some for more some for less according to their convenience And to every Traveller they give some of their Beans and Rice-water and an handful of Rice to eat There are other Women upon the high-way and in the fields looking behind their Horses their Oxen and their Cows who have made vows never to eat but what they find indigested in the dung of those Beasts Now in regard there is neither Barly nor Oats in that Countrey they give their Cattel certain great crooked Pease which they bruise before between two Mill-stones and then lay them in steep for half an hour for they are a very solid substance and hard to be digested They give their Cattel these Pease every evening and in the morning they feed them with two-pound of dark-brown-Sugar like Wax kneaded together with as much Meal and one-pound of Butter whereof the Ostlers or Grooms make little round Balls which they thrust down their throats for otherwise they would never eat them Afterwards they wash their mouths that are all over clamm'd especially their teeth which makes them have such an aversion against that sort of food All the day long they pull up the grass and weeds by the roots and give their Cattel being very careful of letting them eat any of the earth The thirty'th we travell'd eight leagues and lay at a place call'd Goulupalé The one and thirty'th after we had travell'd nine hours we stopt at Gogoron The first of September we travell'd but six leagues and came to lie at Gandicot It was but eight days before that the Nahab had taken that City after a Siege of three months Nor had it been taken without the assistance of certain French-men who had forsaken the service of the Dutch-Company by reason of ill-usage They had also several English and Dutch-Cannoneers with two or three Italians which mainly forwarded the surrender of that place Gandicot is one of the strongest Cities in the Kingdom of Carnatica It is situated upon the point of an high Mountain there being but one ascent to it not above twenty or five and twenty-foot-broad at most in some places not above seven or eight-foot-wide On the right-hand of the way which is cut out of the Mountain there is a most hideous precipice at the bottom whereof runs a vast River Upon the top of the Mountain there is a small plain about a quarter of a league broad and about half a league long This is all sow'd with Rice and Millet and water'd with many little Springs The top of the plain on the South-side where the City is built is encompast with precipices two Rivers running at the bottom which form the point So that there is but one Gate to enter into the City from the plain-side and that too fortifi'd with three good Walls of Free-stone with Moats pav'd at the bottom with Free-stone so that the besieged had but only one quarter of the City to defend containing about five-hunder'd paces They had but two Iron-Guns the one carrying twelve-pound-Ball the other eight The one was planted upon the Gate the other upon a point of a kind of a Bastion So that until the Nahab had found the way to mount his Cannon upon a very high place neer the City he lost a great number of men by several sallies which the Besieged made The Raja that was within was esteem'd one of the bravest and most experienc'd Captains that ever were amongst the Idolaters whereupon the Nahab finding that the place was not to be taken unless he could get up his Cannon to the top of that steep ascent sent for all the French-men that were in the King's service promising to every one four months extraordinary pay if they could find a way to mount his Cannon upon the top of such a place wherein they had the good-hap to be very succesful For they mounted four pieces of Cannon and were so prosperous as to hit the great Gun that was planted upon the Gate and render it unserviceable At length when they had beaten down good part of the Wall of the City the Besiegeâ came to capitulate and march'd out of the Town upon very good Articles The day we arriv'd all the Army was encamp'd at the foot of the Mountain in a plain through which there ran a very fair River where the Nahab muster'd his Cavalry and found them in a very good condition An English-Cannoneer and an Italian seeing Monsieur Jardin and my self pass by guess'd us to be Frangui's and because it was late accosted us very civilly and oblig'd us to stay with them all night By them we understood that there was in the City a French-Engineer whose name was Claudius Maille of Bourges and that he was employ'd by the Nahab to cast some pieces of Cannon which the Nahab intended to leave in the City The next day we went into the City and found out Maille's Lodging having been acquainted with him at Batavia who informing the Nahab of our arrival he presently sent us Provision for our selves and our beasts The third day we went to wait upon the Nahab who had pitch'd his Tents upon that part of the plain neer the place where the way is cut out of the
16 to 30 Roupies The Chites which are made at Seronge are sold from 20 to 50 Roupies the Corge or thereabouts These Chites serve for Coverlets for Beds for Sofra's or Table-cloaths after the Countrey-fashion Pillowbears Handkerchiefs but more especially for Wastcoats as well for the men as women in Persia. The fine Calicut Chites are made at Brampour and are us'd for handkerchiefs by those that snuff Tobacco The women also over all Asia make Veils of these Calicuts to wear over their heads and about their shoulders which Veils are call'd Ormis The Basta's or Calicuts painted red blue and black are carri'd white to Agra and Amadabat in regard those Cities are nearest to the places where the Indigo is made that is us'd in colouring They cost from two Roupies to 30 or 40 a-piece according to the fineness and the quantity of Gold at the ends and sometimes upon the sides The Indians have a way to dip some of these Calicuts in a certain water that makes them look like Water'd-Chamlets which adds also to the price That sort which is sold for two Roupies and so onward till ye come to twelve is transported to the Coast of Melinda and it is the greatest Trade the Governour of Mozambique drives who sells them to the Cafres that vend them again among the Abyssins and into the Kingdom of Saba for those people not understanding the use of Soap need no more but only to wash these Calicuts in water That sort which is valu'd from 12 Roupies upward is transported to the Philippine-Islands the Islands of Borneo Java Sumatra and other adjacent places Where the women wear no other clothes than a single piece of this Calicut One part whereof without cutting it serves for a Petticoat the other they wind about their stomachs and their heads White Calicuts VVHite Calicuts come partly from Agra and about Lahor part from Bengala some from Brouda Baroche Renonsari and other places They are brought out of the Loom to Renonsari and Baroche where they are whiten'd by reason of the convenience of their Meadows and the great store of Limons that grow thereabouts For the Calicuts are never so white as they should be till they are dipt in Limon-water The Calicuts that come from Agra Lahor and Bengala are sold by the Corge and they are of several prices from seventeen Roupies to three or four-hunder'd as the Merchant will have them wov'n The Calicuts that come from Renonsari and Baroche are one and twenty cubits long new out of the Loom but in the whitening they shrink to twenty cubits Those of Brouda twenty cubits from the Loom and shrink in the whitening to nineteen and a half All the Calicuts or Basta's that come from these three Cities are of two sorts for some are broad some are narrow The narrow are those I have already mention'd the prices whereof are various from two Mamoudi's to six The broad Basta's are a cubit and one third part wide the whole piece twenty cubits long The usual price of them is from five Mamoudi's to twelve but a Merchant being upon the place may cause them to be made much more large and fine till they are worth five-hunder'd Mamoudi's a-piece I saw two pieces sold for a thousand Mamoudi's The English bought one and the Hollanders another each piece containing eight and twenty cubits Mahamed Alibeg returning into Persia out of India where he had been Embassador presented Cha-Sef the second with a Coco-nut about the bigness of an Austrich-egg all beset with Pearls and when it was open'd there was taken out of it a Turbant that had sixty cubits of Calicut in length to make it the Cloath being so fine that you could hardly feel it in your hand For they will spin their thread so fine that the eye can hardly discern it or at least it seems to be but a Cobweb Twisted-Cotton COtton twisted and untwisted comes from the Provinces of Brampour and Guzerat Untwisted Cotton is never transported into Europe being too cumbersome and of little value only they send it to Ormus Balsara and sometimes to the Philippine-Islands and the Islands of Sinde As for the twisted Cottons the English and Hollanders transport a good quantity not of the finest but of that sort which is priz'd from fifteen to fifty Mamouds's It serves for wieks for Caudles for Packsaddles and for the ground of Silk-stuffs Indigo INdigo comes from several parts of the Great Mogul's Empire and according to the diversity of the places it differs in quality and consequently in price In the first place it comes from the Territories of Biana Indoua and Corsa a day or two's journey from Agra which is esteem'd the best of all It is made also eight days journey from Surat in a Village call'd Sarquess two leagues distance from Amadabat Here the flat Indigo is made There is also Indigo little inferior in goodness and price which comes from the King of Golconda's Territories The Mein of Surat which contains 42 Serre's or 34 and a half of our pounds is valu'd from 15 to 20 Roupies They make as good as this at Baroche That which is made up about Agra is made up in half Balls and is the most sought for in all India It is sold by the Mein which is those places contains 60 Serres or 51 and three quarters of our pounds The usual price is from 36 to 40 Roupies There grows also Indico some 36 leagues from Brampour about a great Village call'd Raout and round about the neighbouring Towns in the road to Surat Of which the Natives usually make above a hunder'd-thousand Roupies There comes Indigo also from Bengala which the Holland-Company transports for Maslipatan But they buy this Indigo and that of Brampour and Amadabat cheaper by 24 in the hunder'd than that of Agra Indigo is made of an Herb which they sow every year after the rains are over which when it is grown up is very like our Hemp. They cut it three times a year first when it is about two or three foot high and they cut it within half a foot of the ground the first cutting far exceeds the two latter The second cutting is worse than the first by ten or twelve in the hunder'd and the third worse than the second by twelve in the hunder'd The difference is found by breaking a piece of the Paste and observing the colour The colour of that Indigo which is made of the first cutting is a Violet-blue but more brisk and lively than the two others and that which is made of the second is more lively than the third When they have cut the Herb they throw it into Pits which they make with Lime which becomes so hard that you would judg it to be one intire piece of Marble They are generally fourscore or a hunder'd paces in circuit and being half full of water they fill them quite up with the Herb. Then they bruise and jumble it in the water till the leaf
though it be Gold by reason the King ofttimes enhances the value of it The places where Cloves grow are Amboyna Ellias Seram and Bouro The Islands of Banda also in number six viz. Nero Lontour Poulcay Roseguin and Grenapuis bear Nutmegs in great abundance The Island of Grenapuis is about six Leagues in compass and ends in a sharp point where there is a continual fire burning out of the Earth The Island Damme where there grows great store of Nutmegs and very big was discover'd in the year 1647 by Abel Tasman a Dutch Commander The price of Cloves and Nutmegs as I have known them sold to the Hollanders at Surat was as follows The Mein of Surat contains forty Serres which make thirty-four of our Pounds at sixteen Ounces to the Pound A Mein of Cloves was sold for a hundred and three Mamoudi's and a half A Mein of Mace was sold for a hundred and fifty-seven Mamoudi's and a half Nutmegs for fifty-six Mamoudi's and a half Cinnamon comes at present from the Island of Ceylan The Tree that bears it is very much like the Willow and has three Barks They never take off but the first and second which is accounted the best They never meddle with the third for should the Knife enter that the Tree would dye So that it is an art to take off the Cinnamon which they learn from their youth The Cinnamon Spice is much dearer to the Hollanders than people think for the King of Ceylan otherwise call'd King of Candy from the name of his principal City being a sworn Enemy to the Hollanders sends his Forces with an intention to surprize them when they gather their Cinnamon so that they are forc'd to bring seven or eight hundred men together to defend as many more that are at work Which great expence of theirs very much enhances the price of the Cinnamon There grows upon the Cinnamon Tree a certain fruit like an Olive though not to be eaten This the Portugals were wont to put into a Caldron of Water together with the tops of the Branches and boil'd it till the Water was all consum'd When it was cold the upper part became a Paste like white Wax of which they made Tapers to set up in their Churches for no sooner were the Tapers lighted but all the Church was perfum'd Formerly the Portugals brought Cinnamon out of other Countries belonging to the Raja's about Cochin But the Hollanders have destroyd all those places so that the Cinnamon is now in their hands When the Portugals had that Coast the English bought their Cinnamon of them and usually paid for it by the Mein fifty Mamoudi's Drugs that are brought to Surat and brought from other Countries with the price of every one by the Mein Salt Armoniack according to the usual price costs by the Mein twenty Mamoudi's Borax comes unrefin'd from Amadabat as does Salt Armoniack and costs by the Mein thirty-five Mamoudi's Gum-Lack seven Mamoudi's and a half Gum-Lack wash'd ten Mamoudi's Gum-Lack in sticks of Wax forty Mamoudi's There are some of these Sticks that cost fifty or sixty Mamoudi's the Mein and more when they mix Musk in the Gum. Saffron of Surat which is good for nothing but for colouring four Mamoudi's and a half Cumin White eight Mamoudi's Cumin Black three Mamoudi's Arlet small three Mamoudi's Frankincense that comes from the Coast of Arabia three Mamoudi's Myrrh that which is good call'd Mirra Gilet thirty Mamoudi's Myrrh Bolti which comes from Arabia fifteen Mamoudi's Cassia two Mamoudi's Sugar Candy eighteen Mamoudi's Asutinat a sort of Grain very hot one Mamoudi Annise-Seed Gross three Mamoudi's and a half Annise-Seed small and hot one Mamoudi and a half Oupelote a Root fourteen Mamoudi's Cointre five Mamoudi's Auzerout from Persia a hundred and twenty Mamoudi's Aloes Succotrine from Arabia twenty eight Mamoudi's Licorice four Mamoudi's Lignum Aloes in great pieces two hundred Mamoudi's Lignum Aloes in small pieces four hundred Mamoudi's Vez-Cabouli a certain Root twelve Mamoudi's There is a sort of Lignum Aloes very Gummy which comes to by the Mein four thousand Mamoudi's Gum-Lake for the most part comes from Pegu yet there is some also brought from Bengala where it is very dear by reason the Natives fetch that lively Scarlet colour out of it with which they paint their Calicuts Nevertheless the Hollanders buy it and carry it into Persia for the same use of painting That which remains after the colour is drawn off is only fit to make sealing Wax That which comes from Pegu is not so dear though as good for other Countries The difference is only this that it is not so clean in Pegu where the Pismires soul it as in Bengala where it grows in a heathy place full of Shrubs where those Animals cannot so well come at it The Inhabitants of Pegu never make any use of it in painting being a dull sort of people that are in nothing at all industrious The Women of Surat get their livings by cleansing the Lake after the Scarlet colour is drawn from it After that they give it what colour they please and make it up into Sticks for sealing Wax The English and Holland Company carry away every year a hundred and fifty Chests The price is about ten Sous the pound Powder'd Sugar is brought in great quantities out of the Kingdom of Bengala it causes also a very great Trade at Ougeli Patna Daca and other places I have been told it for a very great certainty by several ancient people in Bengala that Sugar being kept thirty years becomes absolute poison and that there is no Venome more dangerous or that sooner works its effect Loaf-Sugar is also made at Amadabat where they are perfectly skill'd in refining it for which reason it is call'd Sugar Royal. These Sugar-Loaves usually weigh from eight to ten pound Opium is brought from Brampour a Town of good Trade between Agra and Surat The Hollanders buy great quantities which they truck for their Pepper Tobacco also grows in abundance round about Brampour sometimes there has been so much that the Natives have let vast quantities rot upon the ground for want of gathering Coffee grows neither in Persia nor in India where it is in no request but the Hollanders drive a great Trade in it transporting it from Ormus into Persia as far as Great Tartary from Balsara into Caldea Arabia Mesopotamia and other Provinces of Turky It was first found out by a Hermite whose name was Scheck-Siadeli about twenty-years ago before which time it was never heard of in any Author either ancient or modern Deceits in Silk Wares Plain Silk Wares may be alter'd in length breadth and quality The quality shews it self when they are of an even thread when the weight is equal and when there is no Cotton thread in the West The Indians not having the art of guilding silver put into their strip'd Wares threads of pure Gold so that you must count the quantity
flaw the first Carat were worth 160 Livres but for that reason I reckon it not at above 150 and so by the rule it comes to 11723278 Livres 14 Sous and 3 Liards Did the Diamond weigh no more than 279 Carats it would not be worth above 11676150 Livres so that the nine 16 ths comes to 47128 Livres 14 Sous and 3 Liards The Great Duke of Tuscany's Diamond weighs 139 Carats clean and well-shap'd cut in facets every way but in regard the water enclines somewhat toward the colour of Citron I do not value the first Carat above 135 Livres so that by the rule the Diamond ought to be worth 2608335 Livres A Diamond by the Miners is call'd Iri which the Turks Persians and Arabians call Almas CHAP. XVI Of Colour'd Stones and the Places where they are found THere are but two places in all the East where Colour'd-Stones are found within the Kingdom of Pegu and the Island of Ceylan The first is a Mountain twelve days journey or there-abouts from Siren toward the North-east the name whereof is Capelan In this Mine are found great quantities of Rubies and Espinels or Mothers of Rubies yellow Topazes blew and white Saphirs Jacinths Amethysts and other Stones of different colours Among these Stones which are hard they find other Stones of various colours that are very soft which they call Bacan in the language of the Countrey but are of little or no esteem Siren is the name of the City where the King of Pegu resides and Ava is the Port of his Kingdom From Ava to Siren you go by water in great flat-bottom'd-Barks which is a voyage of sixty days There is no going by land by reason the Woods are full of Lions Tigers and Elephants It is one of the poorest Countreys in the World where there is no Commodity but Rubies the whole Revenue whereof amounts not to above a hunder'd-thousand Crowns Among all the Stones that are there found you shall hardly see one of three or four Carats that is absolutely clean by reason that the King strictly enjoyns his Subjects not to export them out of his Dominions besides that he keeps to himself all the clean Stones that are found So that I have got very considerably in my Travels by carrying Rubies out of Europe into Asia Which makes me very much suspect the relation of Vincent le Blanc who reports that he saw in the King's Palace Rubies as big as eggs All Rubies are sold by weights which are call'd Ratis that is three grains and a half or seven 8 ths of a Carat and the payments are made in old Pagods A Ruby weighing one Ratis has been sold for Pagods 20 A Ruby of 2 Ratis and one 8 th Pagods 85 A Ruby of 3 Ratis and one 4 th Pagods 185 A Ruby of 4 Ratis and five 8 ths Pagods 450 A Ruby of 5 Ratis Pagods 525 A Ruby of 6 Ratis and a half Pagods 920 If a Ruby exceed six Ratis and be a perfect Stone there is no value to be set upon it The Natives of the Countrey call all Colour'd-Stones Rubies distinguishing them only by the colour Saphirs they call Blue-Rubies Amethysts they call Violet-Rubies Topazes Yellow-Rubies and so of other Stones The other place where Rubies are found is a River in the Island of Ceylan which descends from certain high Mountains in the middle of the Island which swells very high when the rains fall but when the waters are low the people make it their business to search among the Sands for Rubies Saphirs and Topazes All the Stones that are found in this River are generally fairer and clearer than those of Pegu. I forgot to tell you that there are some Rubies but more Balleis-Rubies and an abundance of Bastard-Rubies Saphirs and Topazes found in the Mountains that run along from Pegu to the Kingdom of Camboya Colour'd-Stones are also found in some parts of Europe as in Bohemia and Hungary In Hungary there is a Mine where they find certain Flints of different bigness some as big as eggs some as big as a man's fist which being broken contain a Ruby within as hard and as clean as those of Pegu. In Hungary there is a Mine of Opals which Stone is no-where else to be found in the World but there The Turquoise is no-where to be found but in Persia. Where there are two Mines The one is called the Old-Rock three days journey from Meched toward the North-west near a great Town which goes by the name of Michabourg The other which is call'd the New-Rock is five days journey off Those of the New-Rock are of a paler blue enclining to white and less esteem'd so that you may have a great many for a little Money Some years since the King of Persia commanded that no Turquoises should be digg'd out of the Old-Rock but only for himself making use of those Turquoises instead of enamelling to adorn Hilts of Swords Knives and Daggers of which the Persians are altogether ignorant As for Emraulds it is a vulgar error to say they come originally from the East And therefore when Jewellers and Gold-smiths to prefer a deep-colour'd Emrauld enclining to black tell ye it is an Oriental Emrauld they speak that which is not true I confess I could never discover in what part of our Continent those Stones are found But sure I am that the Eastern-part of the World never produc'd any of those Stones neither in the Continent nor in the Islands True it is that since the discovery of America some of those Stones have been often brought rough from Peru to the Philippine-Islands whence they have been transported into Europe but this is not enough to make them Oriental Besides that at this time they send them into Spain through the North-Sea CHAP. XVII Of Pearls and the Places where they Fish for them IN the first place there is a Fishery for Pearls in the Persian Gulf round about the Island of Bakren It belongs to the King of Persia and there is a strong Fort in it Garrison'd with three hundred men The Water which the people drink in that Island and all along the Coast of Persia is brackish and ill-tasted so that only the Natives of the Country can drink it Fresh water costs Strangers very dear for the people fetch it sometimes one League sometimes two Leagues from the Island from the bottom of the Sea being let down by a Rope with a Bottle or two ty'd about their wastes which they fill and stop it well and then giving the Rope a twitch are hall'd up again by their Companions Every one that fishes pays to the King of Persia five Abassi's whether he get any thing or no. The Merchant also pays the King some small matter for every thousand Oysters The second Fishery for Pearls is right against Bakren upon the Coast of Arabia the happy near the City of Catifa which together with all the Country about it is under the Jurisdiction of an
and be acquainted among the Nobility their Weddings are very pompous and expensive The Bridegroom is mounted upon an Elephant and the Bride rides in a Chariot the whole Company carrying Torches in their hands They also borrow of the Governour and the Nobility of the place as many Elephants and prancing Horses as they can get And they walk some part of the night with Fire-works which they throw about the Streets and Piazza's But the greatest expence to those that live three or four hundred Leagues from it is to get the water of Ganges for in regard they account that water sacred and drink it out of devotion it must be brought them by the Bramins and in Earthen Vessels glaz'd within side which the chief Bramin of Ingrenate fills himself with the purest Water of the River and then seals up with his own Seal They never drink this water till the end of the Feast and then they give their guests three or more glasses apiece This water coming so far and the chief Bramin demanding a Tribute for every pot which contains a Pail-full sometimes a wedding comes to two or three thousand Roupies The eighth of April being in a City of Bengala call'd Malde the Idolaters made a great Feast according to the particular Custom of that place they all go out of the City and fasten Iron hooks to the boughs of several Trees then come a great number of poor people and hang themselves some by the sides some by the brawn of their backs upon those hooks till the weight of their body tearing away the flesh they fall of themselves 'T is a wonderful thing to see that not so much as one drop of blood should issue from the wounded flesh nor that any of the flesh should be left upon the hook besides that in two days they are perfectly cur'd by such Plaisters as their Bramins give them There are others who at that Feast will lye upon a bed of nails with the points upward the nails entring a good way into the flesh however while these people are under this Pennance their Friends come and present them with Money and Linnen When they have undergone their Penance they take the presents and distribute them to the poor without making any farther advantage of them I ask'd one why they made that Feast and suffer'd those severe Penances who answer'd me that it was in remembrance of the first man whom they call'd Adam as we do In the year 1666 I saw another sort of Penance as I cross'd the Ganges upon the Bank of which River they had prepar'd a clean place where one of the poor Idolaters was condemn'd to rest upon the ground touching it only with his hands and feet which he was to do several times a day and every time to kiss the earth three times before he rose up again He was to rise up upon his left foot never touching the ground with his right all the while And every day for a month together before he either eat or drank he was oblig'd to this posture for fifty times together and consequently to kiss the ground a hundred and fifty times He told me that the Bramins had enjoin'd him that Penance because he had suffer'd a Cow to dye in his House and had not lead her to the water to be wash'd before she dy'd When an Idolater has lost any piece of Gold or Silver or summ of Money either by negligence or as being stoln from him he is oblig'd to carry as much as he lost to the great Bramin for if he does not and that the other should come to know of it he is ignominiously cast out of his Tribe to make him more careful another time On the other side the Ganges Northward toward the Mountains of Naugrocot there are two or three Raja's who neither believe God nor the Devil Their Bramins have a book containing their Belief full of ridiculous absurdities whereof the Author whose name is Baudou gives no reason These Raja's are the Great Moguls Vassals and pay him Tribute To conclude the Malavares carefully preserve the nails of their left hands and let their hair grow like women's These nails which are half a finger long serve them instead of Combs and it is with their left hand that they do all their drudgery never touching their faces nor what they eat but with their right hands CHAP. XV. Of the Kingdom of Boutan whence comes the Musk the good Rhubarb and some Furs THE Kingdom of Boutan is of a large extent but I could never yet come to a perfect knowledg thereof I have set down all that I could learn at Patna whither the Merchants of Boutan come to sell their Musk. The most excellent Rhubarb comes also from the Kingdom of Boutan From hence is brought also that Seed which is good against the worms therefore call'd Wormseed and good store of Furs As for the Rhubarb the Merchants run a great hazard which way soever they bring it for if they take the Northern Road toward Caboul the wet spoils it if the Southern Road in regard the journey is long if the Rains happen to fall there is as much danger that way so that there is no Commodity requires more care then that As for the Musk during the heats the Merchant loses by it because it dries and loses its weight Now in regard this Commodity pays twenty-five in the hundred Custom at Gorrochepour the last Town belonging to the Great Mogul next to the Kingdom of Boutan when the Indian Merchants come to that City they go to the Officer of the Custom-House and tell him that they are going to Boutan to buy Musk or Rhubarb and how much they intend to lay out all which the Officer Registers with the name of the Merchant Then the Merchants instead of twenty-five agree with him for seven or eight in the hundred and take a Certificate from the Officer or Cadi that he may not demand any more at their return If the Officer refuses a handsom composition then they go another way over Desarts and Mountains cover'd with Snow tedious and troublesome till they come to Caboul where the Caravans part some for great Tartary others for Balch Here it is that the Merchants coming from Boutan barter their Commodities for Horses Mules and Camels for there is little Money in that Country Then those Tartars transport their Commodities into Persia as far as Ardevile and Tauris which is the reason that some Europeans have thought that Rhubarb and Wormseed came out of Tartary True it is that some Rhubarb comes from thence but not so good as that of Boutan being sooner corrupted for Rhubarb will eat out its own heart The Tartars carry back out of Persia Silks of small value which are made in Tauris and Ardevile and some English Cloth brought by the Armenians from Constantinople and Smyrna Some of the Merchants that come from Caboul and Boutan go to Candahar and thence to Ispahan whether they
all three through the Kingdom of Arakan which lies to the South and West of Tipra having some part of Pegu upon the Winter West They told me also that it was about fifteen days journey to cross through their Country from whence there is no certain conjecture of the extent to be made by reason of the inequality of the stages They ride upon Oxen and Horses which are low but very hardy As for the King and the Nobility they ride in their Pallekies or upon their Elephants of War They are no less subject to Wens under their throats than those of Boutan insomuch that the women have those Wens hanging down to their Nipples which proceeds from the badness of the waters There is nothing in Tipra which is fit for strangers There is a Mine of Gold but the Gold is very course And there is a sort of very course Silk which is all the Revenue the King has He exacts no Subsidies from his Subjects but only that they who are not of the prime Nobility should work six days in a year in his Mine or in his Silk-works He sends his Gold and his Silk into China for which they bring him back Silver which he coins into pieces to the value of ten Sous He also makes thin pieces of Gold like the Aspers of Turky of which he has two sorts four of the one sort making a Crown and twelve of the other CHAP. XVII Of the Kingdom of Asem IT was never known what the Kingdom of Asem was till Mirgimola had setl'd Aureng-zeb in the Empire For he considering that he should be no longer valu'd at Court after the war was at an end being then General of Anreng-zeb's Army and powerful in the Kingdom where he had great store of Creatures to preserve the Authority he had resolv'd to undertake the Conquest of the Kingdom of Asem where he knew he should find little or no resistance that Kingdom having been at peace above 500 years before 'T is thought these were the people that formerly invented Guns and Powder which spead it self from Asem to Pegu and from Pegu to China from whence the invention has been attributed to the Chineses However certain it is that Mirgimola brought from thence several pieces of Canon which were all Iron Guns and store of excellent Powder both made in that Countrey The Powder is round and small like ours and very strong Mirgimola embark'd his Army in one of the mouths of Ganges and sailing up one of the Rivers that comes from the Lake Chiamay to the twenty-ninth or thirtieth Degree he landed his Army and came into a Country abounding in all humane necessaries still finding the less resistance because the people were surpriz'd Being a Mahumetan he spar'd not the very Pagods but burn'd and sack'd all where-ever he came to the thirty-fifth Degree There he understood that the King of Asem was in the field with a more powerful Army than he expected and that he had several pieces of Canon and great store of fire-works withall Thereupon Mirgimola thought it not convenient to march any farther though the chief reason of his return was the drawing on of Winter which the Indians are so sensible of that it is impossible to make them stir beyond the thirti'th or thirty-fifth Degree especially to hazard their lives Mirgimola therefore turns to the South-west and besieges a City call'd Azoo which he took in a small time and found good plunder therein In this City of Azoo are the Tombs of the Kings of Asem and of all the Royal Family For though they are Idolaters they never burn their dead bodies but bury them They believe that the dead go into another world where they that have liv'd well in this have plenty of all things but that they who have been ill livers suffer the want of all things being in a more especial manner afflicted with hunger and drowth and that therefore it is good to bury something with them to serve them in their necessities This was the reason that Mirgimola found so much wealth in the City of Azoo For many ages together several Kings had built them Chappels in the great Pagod to be buried in and in their life times had stor'd up in the Vaults of their particular Chappels great sums of Gold and Silver and other moveables of value Besides that when they bury the deceas'd King they bury with him likewise whatever he esteem'd most pretious in his life-time whether it were an Idol of Gold or Silver or whatever else that being needful in this might be necessary for him in the world to come But that which favours most of Barbarism is that when he dies all his best beloved Wives and the principal Officers of his House poyson themselves to be buri'd with him and to wait upon him in the other world Besides this they bury one Elephant twelve Camels six Horses and a good number of Hounds believing that all those Creatures rise again to serve their King The Kingdom of Asem is one of the best Countries of all Asia for it produces all things necessary for humane subsistence without any need of foreign supply There are in it Mines of Gold Silver Steel Lead Iron and great store of Silk but course There is a sort of Silk that is found under the the Trees which is spun by a Creature like to our Silk-worms but rounder and which lives all the year long under the trees The Silks which are made of this Silk glist'n very much but they fret presently The Country produces also great store of Gum-Lake of which there is two sorts one grows under the trees of a red colour wherewith they paint their Linnen and Stuffs and when they have drawn out the red juice the remaining substance serves to varnish Cabinets and to make Wax being the best Lake in Asia for those uses As for their Gold they never suffer it to be transported out of the Kingdom nor do they make any Money of it but they preserve it all in Ingots which pass in trade among the Inhabitants but as for the Silver the King coins it into Money as is already describ'd Though the Country be very plentiful of all things yet there is no flesh which they esteem so much as Dogs flesh which is the greatest delicacy at all Feasts and is sold every month in every City of the Kingdom upon their Market-days There are also great store of Vines and very good Grapes but they never make any Wine only they dry the Grapes to make Aqua Vitae As for Salt they have none but what is artificial which they make two ways First they raise great heaps of that green Stuff that swims at the top of standing waters which the Ducks and Frogs eat This they dry and burn and the ashes thereof being boil'd in a Cloth in water become very good Salt The other way most in use is to take the leaves of Adams Fig-tree which they dry and burn the ashes
above the Town up the River But no person must enter into this Pagod unless it be the King and his Priests As for the people so soon as they see the Door op'n they must presently fall upon their faces to the Earth Then the King appears upon the River with two hundred Gallies of a prodigious length four hundred Rowers belonging to every one of the Gallies most of them being guilded and carv'd very richly Now in regard this second appearance of the King is in the month of November when the waters begin to abate the Priests make the people believe that none but the King can stop the course of the waters by his Prayers and by his Offerings to this Pagod And they are so vain as to think that the King cuts the waters with his Sabra or Skain thereby commanding it to retire back into the Sea The King also goes but incognito to a Pagod in an Island where the Hollanders have a Factory There is at the entry thereof an Idol sitting cross-leg'd with one hand upon his knee and the other arm akimbo It is above sixty foot high and round about this Idol are about three hundred others of several sorts and sizes All these Idols are guilt And indeed there are a prodigious number of Pagods in this Countrey for every rich Siamer causes one to be built in memory of himself Those Pagods have Steeples and Bells and the Walls within are painted and guilded but the Windows are so narrow that they give but a very dim light The two Pagods to which the King goes publickly are adorn'd with several tall Pyramids well guilded And to that in the Hollanders Island there belongs a Cloyster which is a very neat Structure In the middle of the Pagod is a fair Chappel all guilded within side where they find a Lamb and three Wax Candles continually burning before the Altar which is all over cover'd with Idols some of massie Gold others of Copper guilt In the Pagod in the midst of the Town and one in of those to which the King goes once a year there are above four thousand Idols and for that which is six Leagues from Siam it is surrounded with Pyramids whose beauty makes the industry of that Nation to be admir'd When the King appears all the Doors and Windows of the Houses must be shut and all the people prostrate themselves upon the ground not daring to lift up their eyes And because no person is to be in a higher place than the King they that are within doors are bound to keep their lowest Rooms When he cuts his hair one of his Wives performs that office for he will not suffer a Barber to come near him This Prince has a passionate kindness for his Elephants which he looks upon as his Favourites and the Ornaments of his Kingdom If there be any of them that fall sick the Lords of the Court are mighty careful to please their Soveraign and if they happ'n to dye they are buried with the same Funeral Pomp as the Nobles of the Kingdom which are thus performed They set up a kind of Mausoleum or Tomb of Reeds cover'd with Paper in the midst whereof they lay as much sweet wood as the body weighs and after the Priests have mumbl'd certain Orisons they set it a-fire and burn it to ashes which the rich preserve in Gold or Silver Urns but the poor scatter in the wind As for offenders they never burn but bury them 'T is thought that in this Kingdom there are above two hundred Priests which they call Bonzes which are highly reverenc'd as well at Court as among the people The King himself has such a value for some of them as to humble himself before them This extraordinary respect makes them so proud that some of them have aspir'd to the Throne But when the King discovers any such design he puts them to death And one of them had his head lately struck off for his Ambition These Bonzes wear yellow with a little red Cloth about their Wasts like a Girdle Outwardly they are very modest and are never seen to be angry About four in the morning upon the tolling of their Bells they rise to their prayers which they repeat again toward evening There are some days in the year when they retire from all converse with men Some of them live by Alms others have Houses with good Revenues While they wear the Habit of Bonzes they must not marry for if they do they must lay their Habit aside They are generally very ignorant not knowing what they believe Yet they hold the transmigration of Souls into several Bodies They are forbidd to kill any Creature yet they will make no scruple to eat what others kill or that which dies of it self They say that the God of the Christians and theirs were Brothers but that theirs was the eldest If you ask them where their God is they say he vanish'd away and they know not where he is The chief strength of the Kingdom is their Infantry which is indifferent good the Soldiers are us'd to hardship going all quite naked except their private parts all the rest of their body looking as if it had been cupt is carv'd into several shapes of beasts and flowers When they have cut their skins and stanch'd the blood they rub the cut-work with such colours as they think most proper So that afar off you would think they were clad in some kind of flower'd Satin or other for the colours never rub out Their weapons are Bows and Arrows Pike and Musket and an Azagaya or Staff between five and six foot long with a long Iron Spike at the end which they very dextrously dart at the Enemy In the year 1665 there was at Siam a Neapolitan Jesuite who was call'd Father Thomas he caus'd the Town and the Kings Palace to be fortifi'd with very good Bulwarks according to Art for which reason the King gave him leave to live in the City where he has a House and a little Church CHAP. XIX Of the Kingdom of Macassar and the Embassadors which the Hollanders sent into China THE Kingdom of Macassar otherwise call'd the Isle of Celebes begins at the fifteenth Degree of Southern Latitude The heats are excessive all the day but the nights are temperate enough And for the Soil it is very fertile but the people have not the art of building The Capital City bears the name of the Kingdom and is situated upon the Sea The Port is free for the Vessels that bring great quantities of goods from the adjacent Islands pay no Customs The Islanders have a custom to poyson their Arrows and the most dangerous poyson which they use is the juice of certain Trees in the Island of Borneo which they will temper so as to work swift or slow as they please They hold that the King has only the secret Receit to take away the force of it who boasts that he has the most effectual poyson in
by this course that they are kept within their duty and that they obey the Laws as much out of a principle of Religion and Conscience as out of the fear of chastisement and in that they do not much recede from our Christian Maximes The Mouftis and the Cadis pass therefore indifferently under the Name of Persons well skill'd in the Law as if we should reduce our Divines and our Civil Lawyers into the same Class and in civil and criminal Causes the Moufti is often consulted The Moufti is the honourary Chief of the Law all over the Empire and accounted to be the Interpreter of the Alchoran I speak of the grand Moufti of Constantinople who is the most esteem'd and the principal of all For there are several others of them in Turkey over whom he has no more jurisdiction than he has over the Imans or Priests every one of them submitting themselves only to the Magistrate and there being no Ecclesiastical Superiority amongst them That hinders not but that the Grand Moufti is honour'd by all the rest and in great veneration among the Turks The Grand Seignor never bestows that Dignity but upon a Person of great abilities and great integrity he often consults him in the Affairs of greatest importance he always follows his Directions and he is the only Person in the World at whose approach he rises up to receive him The Cadilesquers follow the Moufti and are Judges-Advocates of the Militia the Souldiers having this Priviledge That they are judg'd only by them whence they also call them Judges of the Armies There are but two of them all over the Empire the Cadilesquer of Romania and the Cadilesquer of Natolia who are in highest esteem next to the Moufti and have their Seats in the Divan immediately next to the Grand Vizir The Mollah or Moula-Cadis are the Judges of great Cities who receive their Commissions from the Cadilesquers to whom there may be an Appeal made from their Sentence in civil Concerns only for as to the criminal part the Cause is soon decided and the least Judge condemns to death without any Appeal The Cadis are under the Mollah and ought to be well vers'd in the Laws and Customs of the Countrey They have also under them the Naips who administer Justice in the Villages and that is done with much expedition without the help of Proctors or Advocates The Imans or Emaums are the Priests of the Turks and as 't were the Parsons of their Mosqueys where they take care that all things be done in order and at the times appointed The Hogias are the Doctors of the Law and as it were the Regents and Instructors of Youth The Sheiks are to them instead of Preachers and they make publick Exhortations The Muezims are they who cry upon the Towers of the Mosquey to call the People together at the hour of Prayer the Turks not using any Bells not the Christians in the Levant The Dervis are Religious Men among the Turks who live poorly and indeed the very word signifies poor They are for the most part ridiculously cloath'd and all generally great Hypocrites OF THE DIFFERENT SPECIES OF Gold and Silver-Coins And the small MONEY Now current in TURKEY Together With the History of the TRADE in Five Sols Pieces French MONEY and the Abolition of it THere are but two Species of Gold-Coins current all over the Turkish What Money current in Turkey Empire the one is the proper Countrey Money the other comes out of Forein parts The former is the Scherif otherwise called Sequin or Sultanine and that kind of Gold is worth at the present six Franks French Money though heretofore it yielded but five Franks nay came so low as four The Scheriffs come from Egypt and Cairo isthe only City of the Empire where The Gold brought to Cairo and coin'd there Gold is coin'd That Gold is brought out of the Kingdom of the Abyssines and this is the manner how it is brought to Cairo The quantity is not the same every year and when the passages are shut up whether by War or by extraordinary Rains whereby the Fields are overflown there comes but little Gold into Egypt during that time As soon as those obstructions are taken away and that there is a freedom of Commerce you shall see arriving at Cairo nay at Alexandria too several Abyssines who bring in one man two pounds another four every one more or less according to his abilities Those poor People run a thousand risques in their Travels and 't is almost a miracle how they bring them to a period Some of them are of that Country whence the Queen of Sheba came and which is now call'd the Kingdom of Sabour Others come from places at a greater distance and they have sometimes fifteen days journeys to make and cannot meet with any waters to drink but what are corrupt and destructive to health which I found but too true my self when I cross'd the Desarts of Arabia If by chance they come to some Cottage or Hut where they have kill'd an Elephant it is a place for them to feast in This consider'd we need not wonder at the short lives of those miserable people whose bodies are destroy'd in those Voyages and who for the most part do not exceed forty years of age The case is the same with those who trade with the Portugueses on the Coasts of Melinda and Mozambico the corrupt waters they are forc'd to drink in their way make them hydropical at five and twenty years at age and generally all the several peoples of the Kingdom of Sabour have the right Leg swell'd and twice as big as the left and seldom exceed five and thirty years 'T is a miraculous thing to see the fidelity wherewith those poor Abyssines demean The sincerity of the Abyssines themselves in trading as well those of the Southern parts who are Christians as those of the North who border upon Egypt and are Mahumetans For after they have taken the Commodities they like for the Gold they have brought if the Merchant they deal with will supply them with any thing further to be paid at their return and upon their own words he is sure enough of it and need not break his sleep for it For if it happen that one of those Abyssines who is a Debtor should die by the way some of his Relations or Friends whom he acquaints with his affairs brings the Gold at the next return for the Commodity which had been taken up and it could never hitherto be found that any Merchant could complain that ever he had lost ought by any one of them All that is to be fear'd is that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies who rob and kill them and particularly on the South-side there being less danger towards the North. The foreign Coins of Gold in Turkey are the Ducates of Germany Holland Hungary and Venice They are very much sought after and they are
the Treasury of the Ottoman Monarchs and there are yet some very Remarkable passages to be The Ancient Custome practis'd when the Grand Seignor drinks between Meals communicated relating to the other Quarters of the inner part of the Seraglio Between the Treasury and an obscure Vaulted Gallery in length between Fifteen and Twenty paces which conducts you to an Iron-Door by which there is a passage into the Gardens you find on the left hand the Appartment of the Pages of the Kilar or the Cup-Bearer's Office That is the place where they prepare the Sherbets and other Liquors for the Grand Seignor's own drinking and where they keep the Wine if it happens that he drinks any as Sultan Amurath did of whom I have often had occasion to speak 'T is an ancient Custome That when the Grand Seignor calls for Water to drink between meals every time he so calls costs him ten Sequins or Chequins The Ceremony observ'd therein is this In the Chamber call'd the Haz-Oda which is the Appartment of the Forty-Pages who are alwayes near the Grand Selgnor's Person there is perpetually one of them standing Sentinel at the Entrance which leads to the Cup-Bearer's Office where two Pages of the same Quarter are in like manner upon the Sentry When the Grand Seignor is thirsty and calls for water the Page of the Haz-Oda immediately makes a sign to the two Pages of the Kilar of whom one advances up to the Kilar-bachi or Cup-Bearer himself crying out Sou which signifies Water to advertise him that the Prince would drink and the other runs to the door of the Haz-Oda where the most ancient of the Forty Pages gives him Ten Sequins That Page is the Treasurer of the said Chamber and he payes the small Sums which the Grand Seignor gives order for an Office which might be call'd in English The Treasurer of the petty Enjoyments The Water is sometimes brought in a Cup of Gold sometimes in a Vessel of Pourcelain placed upon a large Server of Gold about two foot diameter and enrich'd with Precious Stones within and without That is look'd on as one of the richest pieces of Plate belonging to the Seraglio The principal Cup-Bearer who is a white Eunuch carries it with great Ceremony attended by a hundred Pages of the Kilar whom he ordinarily has under his Charge and upheld under the Arms by two of them who walk on both sides of him For it is requir'd That he should carry it lifted up above his head and so he cannot see his way but by looking under it When he is come to the Door of the Haz-Oda the Pages of the Kilar who have accompany'd him so far pass no further save only the two who uphold his Arms and the Pages of the Chamber go along with him quite into the Grand Seignor's Presence But when they come to the door of the Chamber two of the more ancient among them take the places of the two Pages of the Kilar and compleat the conducting of the Kilargi-Bachi under the Arms to offer the Cup to the Prince When he has not any thing to say to him he carries it back again into the Kilar but if he will take his opportunity to entertain him with some Affair he delivers the Cup and the Server into the hands of one of the Pages who led him under the Arms and he delivers it to those who belonging to the Cup-Bearer's Office waited there in expectation of his return 'T is in the same place to wit that under the over-sight of the Cup-bearer they keep A way to quench thirst at meals wholly particular to the Levantines all sorts of refreshing and cooling Waters as that of Peaches Cherries Raspices and such other fruits The Turks do not drink during their refection that is not till they have given over eating and because it is possible they may be dry whilst they eat take here the manner how they quench that thirst They are serv'd at Table with these Waters in great Cups of Pourcelaine which hold about two Quarts and the better to distinguish them they put into every one of those Cups some of the same fruit from which the Water that is therein had been extracted and which they had preserv'd for that purpose Every one has lying by him a Wooden spoon which holds three or four times as much as any of our ordinary ones and whereof the handle is of a length proportionable for as to Gold or Silver spoons it is not their custome to use any With those spoons they can take out what is in the Cups according to the Water which they most fancy and so they suspend thirst taking ever and anon some spoonfuls of it It is also in the Cup-bearers Appartment that the Treacle is made which the Turks The Composition of Treacle call Tiriak-Farik and there is a great quantity of it made because they use it as an Universal remedy and charitably bestow it on all sorts of people as well in City as Country who are desirous of it The Vipers which are us'd in this composition are brought out of Aegypt and they make no account of those which other Countries afford or they are of opinion at least that the former are much the better for that purpose Before the Appartment of the Kilar there is a Gallery whereof the floor is pav'd A stately service of Gold Plate with square pieces of Black and White Marble and sustain'd by eight fair Pillars of White Marble and at the end of it is a little Quarter where the principal Cup-bearer has his residence There also are the Lodgings of his Substitute the Kilarquet-houdasi who is not an Eunuch as the Kilargi-bachi is and who at his removal out of the Seraglio is ordinarily advanc'd to the charge of a Bassa The Kilargi-bachi has in his custody all the Gold and Silver-plate the Basins the Ewers the Bowls the Cups the Servers and the Candlesticks the greatest part of that service being garnish'd with Diamonds Rubies and Emeralds and other pretious Stones of value As for golden Dishes and Candlesticks without any additional embellishments of precious Stone there are some so large and so massy that there must be two men to carry one of them These Candlesticks are made after a fashion quite different from ours They are ordinarily two or three Foot high upon a Base of above twelve inches Diameter and the upper part thereof is as t were a Box or kind of Lamp with its beak and it may contain above a pound of suet 'T is to prevent the fall of any thing upon the Carpet that they make the foot of the Candlestick so large as I told you and besides it is requisite that it should bear some proportion to the height The match or wieke which they put into the Suet beaten into small bits is about the bigness of a Man's thumb and consequently must needs make a great light in the Room As to the Kilarquet-houdast he
Empire As also with his mention of a place on the West-side of the Volga where he sayes Astracan was formerly situated Concerning both which Cities I shall declare divers things I have Collected out of several European and Arabian Writers which either are not commonly known or little regarded But I must necessarily premise somewhat concerning the Antient Inhabitants of the Country wherein these Cities are situated The first Nation of whom I find any mention who made any fix'd habitation in these Quarters were the Chazari so named by the Latines and Greeks but by the Mahumetans Alchozar and Gorjani This Nation during the Reign of the Emperour Justine like a Torrent Overflowed all that Vast Continent which lies between China and the Boristhenes Conquered part of India All Bactria Sogdiana and made the Persians Tributary by whom they are always called Turks and their Prince Chacan a Title formerly common unto all great Turkish Emperours This Mighty Monarch having conquered the Igors or Jugurs Avares Chuni or Huns Abtelites or White Huns and all other Tribes of Turks and Tartars together with the Alani whose Dominion then extended as appears by Marcellinus from the Boristhenes far beyond the most North-East part of the Caspian Sea entred into a League with Justine and styles himself in his Letters Lord of the Seven Climates of the World His Acts may be read at large in Theophilactus Simocatta Excerptis de Legationibus and divers others of the Bizantine Historians This Nation Assisted the Emperour Heraclius in his Wars against the great Cosroes whom by their Assistance he overcame These Chazari were also possessed of all that part of Taurica Chersonesus which is plain and fit for feeding Cattle they being addicted after the manner of all other Scythian Nomades unto a Pastoral life which Peninsula from them was untill the Famous Irruption of the Tartars in the Thirteenth Century called Cassaria or Cazaria and afterwards more corruptly by the Genoeses Venetians and other Latines Gazaria I find mention of these Chazari or Chozars in divers Persian and Arabian Historians and Geographers Abulpharagius acquaints us with an Expedition they made into Persia the 183. Year of the Hegira which was after our Account in 799 from whence they returned with great Spoile and above 100000 Captives and afterwards in the 514 th Year of the Mahumetan Epocha being A. C. 1120. they made another Inroad accompanied by the Comanians whom the Arabians call Kaphjaks Frequent mention is made of them by that Deservedly Celebrated Arabian Geographer Al Edrisi who flourished in the 548 th year of the Hegira of Christ 1153. He always calls the Caspian Sea Mare Chozar And all that Country on the North and to the West of the Caspian Sea Terra Chozar He acquaints us that the Residence of the Prince of Chozar was not far above the Mouth of the Volga which the Tartars call Athel which name I suppose it derived from Attila that Renowned King of the Hunns being so called in the Relation of the Ambassadors who were sent by the Emperour Justine unto the Great Chacan of the Turks residing in the East Al Edrisi and his Epitomizer commonly known by the Name of Geographus Nubiensis intimate That these Chozars inhabited divers other Cities but that this was the Metropolis he suppresses the Name styling it only from the River the City of Athel and declares it was divided by the River the chief and greatest part being on the West-side and that the other less considerable on the East-side was inhabited only by the meaner sort of People and Merchants it being a place of great Trade that which made it more considerable was the liberty allowed unto all of the Publike Profession and Exercise of their respective Religious Perswasions Jews Christians Mahumetans and Idolaters being there equally countenanced which I suppose might occasion that Dialogue published out of an Ancient Hebrew Manuscript by L'Empereur between the Author a Jewish Rabbi and the King of Chozar This City is said to have been extended along the River three miles in length and it's breadth proportionable the Western part well fortified adorned with the Emperours Palace and several other eminent Structures Nassir Eddin who wrote at the latter end of the 13th Century calls this City in his Geographical Tables Balanjar and from him Abulfeda they place it in 46 degrees 30 minutes of Northern Latitude where within six or eight minutes our best Geographers seat Astracan And questionless this was that City which our Author and Olearius call Old Astracan These Chazari did I suppose conserve their vast Dominion without any great Interruption at least until A. C. 900. For Alferganus who lived about that Time places no other Nation in his Table of Climes between China and the Boristhenes And Eutichius who wrote about 30 or 40 years after makes mention of them as a mighty Nation and many amongst them converted unto the Christian Belief About the middle of the 10th Century these Chazari gave place unto the Cumanians or Comanians who were also a Turkish Nation known unto the Turks Persians and Arabians under the Name of Kaphjack whether they expelled the Chazari or that the former becoming the more Eminent Tribe gave Law and Name unto these latter as hath since frequently happened among the Tartars I will not here undertake to determine but this is certain that suddenly the Name of Chazari was extinct and all that Tract of Land from the Nepper unto Turkestan 1500 miles beyond the Volga was inhabited by these Cumanians who were often troublesome unto the Russes Lithuanians Hungarians and other Neighbour-Nations But this People was almost totally destroyed by the Tartars in that great Inundation which happened at the beginning of the 12th Century soon after the death of Jingiz Chan whose Son Hocota being chosen Emperour sent his Nephew Batu or Bathy the Son of Tussy Jingiz Chan his Eldest Son with 400000 Men to invade the Northem Parts of Asia The Cumani for divers years valiantly resisted and made the greatest opposition the Tartars met with in all their Conquests repuls'd them in two pitch'd Battels but then growing secure and dispersing upon the Tartars retreat they were unexpectedly surprized the whole Countrey over-run above 200000 killed their King Kuthen hardly escaping with 40000 into Hungary where he met with a kind reception had land allotted him and his Company which Region is called Campus Cumanus unto this day This Countrey was so miserably wasted by the Tartars that in the Years 1253 and 1254 when Rubriquis passed through it going unto and returning from his Ambassage to Mangu Chan there was no fixed habitation excepting a few Cottages in the Island where Astracan is now situated But Bathy having destroyed the Comanians ruinated their Cities and established his own Dominion began to think of a fix'd abode which after long observation he chose near the River Volga on the East-side and immediately beneath the River Actabon a great Arm of the Volga and
the first it dismisses which empties it self into the Caspian-Sea having run a course of near 400 miles and received several other Branches from the foresaid River about 7 Leagues East off the main River He had newly began this City at the return of Rubriquis from his Embassage unto Mangu Chan in the year 1246 and called it Serai Which City was enlarged and beautified by all his Successors unto the time of its destruction by Tamerlane which was almost 150 years Bathy was succeeded by Barcah who was the first professed Mahumetan Emperour he by Hocola or Hoctay Contemporary with Hayton the Armenian who hath in his History largely discoursed concerning him I should here mention all the other Emperours interceeding between Hocota and Tucktamisch who was dispossessed by Tamerlane together with their Acts but that I hasten unto that which most immediately concerns our present Design and give some account of this City which as I said was first named Serai which interpreted signifies only a Dwelling or Habitation the beginning of it being a Palace built for Bathy You may see what our Traveller says concerning it Page 112. Besides him I find two Authors who make particular mention thereof the first is in the History of Arabshiade published by Golius This Author represents it as one of the greatest and most populous Cities in the Universe agrees with our Traveller in the situation only he calls that Branch which runs out of the Volga and passes to the South-East Sencle The other is Michovius who wrote his History of the Tartars in the year 1515. He afaffirms That in his time there remained the ruines of 300 Temples besides the Walls of the City and several other Magnificent Structures The Tartars have several times attempted to re-edifie ' it but divisions amongst themselves Wars with the Muscovites and attempts of the Cossacks caused them to retire unto places of greater security But because little mention is made of this great Revolution by any European Writer I shall here present the Reader with an account thereof out of the most Authentick Turkish Arabian and Persian Writers For Calcondilas is greatly mistaken who seems to have received by his confident way of writing most particular information when as nothing can be more remote from the truth than what he affirms viz That Tamerlane after several attempts and two or three Battels was forced to retire and glad to secure his Retreat by a Peace he first made with Tuckthamisch which was by both afterwards kept inviolably which is contrary to the Reports of much more Authentick Historians The Origin Progress and Event of this War was after the ensuing manner Tamerlane being in effect Prince but in name only Courachan the Greeks call it Kurgan that is Viceroy or General over all those Countries which are comprehended between the Oxus and Juxartes wherein Bochara Samarchand and several other famous Cities were contained extended his Conquests towards Balch and Chorasan the Aria of the Antients which progress of his filled Thuetamisch Emperour of Serai the City we have before mentioned with jealousies of his growing Greatness whereupon gathering a numerous Army he resolved to invade him using no formality or so much as pretence he thought to have surprized his Enemy but Tamerlane one of whose Master-pieces was to gain early Intelligence of whatsoever was designed or transacted by neighbouring Princes having timely notice of his intention gathering all his own Forces together with considerable assistance from his Confederates marched directly towards his Enemy and passing the Jaxartes met him to his no small astonishment on the Borders of his own Countrey for the Jaxartes only divided their Territories After a most obstinate bloody fight Tamerlane gained the Victory yet neither absolute nor without great loss but it was sufficient that he had secured his own Dominion After this Success he did for divers years attend other Conquests and having subdued a great part of India all Persia Media Armenia Assyria Mesopotamia Babylonia and Syria he resolved to requite the Invasion of Thuctamish whereupon having drawn together an Army of 500000 men he marched through Media Atropatia then and still called Shervan passed the Portae Caucasiae which the Persians name Derbent thence through Dabestan and the great Desart between that and Astracan then named Gitturchan and having wasted all that spacious Countrey on the West-side of the Volga depopulated and dismantled divers fair Cities the ruines of several being yet visible to those who Navigate the Volga as we are informed by Olearius he passed the Volga and on the East-side encountred Thuctamisch who had collected a mighty Force having besides his own Hords the assistance of the Tartars of Cassan Tumen Kalmuke and Dabestan and his Army by this accession was more numerous than that of his Enemy The Battel was long doubtful and exceeding all that happened in that Age for carnage and cruelty both Parties being full of hatred unto their Adversaries and knowing that this Fight would lose or gain them a mighty Empire They fought three days with little intermission and it could not be discerned which had the advantage But that which is thought chiefly to have occasioned Tamerlane's Victory was the departure of a great Tribe from Thuctamisch whose Prince Ectave pretended he had received some great injury or affront but 't was indeed thought he was corrupted For retreating unto Amurath the Turkish Emperour he after the same manner betrayed Bajazet who soon after succeeded revolting at the beginning of the fight unto Tamerlane Thuctamisch being defeated with great difficulty made his escape leaving his Countrey exposed unto the sury of the Zagataians whom so great a slaughter of their own Friends had highly exasperated They spared nothing that was capable of being spoiled demolished Serai together with Seraichick upon the Jaick and Gitturchan which were the only considerable Cities on the East-side of the Volga and leaving the Countrey a meer Desart killing or captivating the Inhabitants driving away the Cattle they returned into Persia with great Booty This happened in the 791 year of the Hegira A. C. 1388. Serai and Saraichick never regained their former splendour but Giturcan now Astracan did by degrees recover but never arrived to that heighth it attained unto during the Empire of the Chazari and Zavolgensian Tartars For Josaphat Barbaro and Ambrosio Contarini who were both Ambassadors from the Venetians unto Usun Cassan Emperour of Persia and well acquainted with those Parts Barbaro living sixteen years at the City Tana on the mouth of the River Tanais and Contarini being forced in his return from Persia to reside there some months They I say both tell us That this City before its destruction by Tamerlane was a very famous Emporium all the Silks most of the Spices and other Commodities which were afterwards brought down to Syria were then carried by Shipping to Astracan which they both name Citrachan and thence by Land in a few days to Tana whether the Venetians sent
Ruslowa upon the main Wolga Cokelou Beerullee Ewansuke Mansor Argeessan Keessan Camusshuke Naowara Tussockly Collobery Malla Collobery Yamansuke Eirichsha Surka Libessha Bussan Carabussan Bealla Wolloskee In all which Oughsukes or Wears they take no Fish besides Sturgeon They are made of Shigenas or long Poles made sharp at one end and beaten into the ground under Water and a pleiting made of Rods somewhat resembling Osier after the manner of our Matts which are fastned to the Poles and hinder the Fish from passing up the River And Houses are built near the Wears for the Convenience of the Fishers 40 50 more or less according unto the greatness of the Water or resort of Fish and twice every day usually in the morning and evening they set about their Fishery They imploy only long slender Poles with an iron Hook or Cruke in the end baited and do ordinarily take 400 every day in the smaller and 600 in the larger Streams The Sturgeon they take is all salted excepting that wherewith they serve the Town of Astracan where a whole fair Sturgeon may be bought for ten pence English and when the great Caravan comes from Russia it takes off most of their Fish which is conveyed into divers parts of Muscovy but chiefly unto the great City of Mosco They return also with great quantities of Caviar and Salt there being not far from the Volga on the Little Nagoy side great Salt-pits which yield an immense quantity of Salt prepared yearly by the heat of the Sun without any further trouble than taking it off the superficies of the Water where it daily kerns The Volga a little above Seraichena 500 miles from Astrachan dismisses a great Branch named Actabon which passing through the Desarts of the Great Nagoy through Bussane enters the Caspian Sea The remainder of the Volga after having parted with several smaller Branches most of which joyn with the forementioned River divides the Little and Great Nagoy passes under the Town of Astrachan whence it proceeds unto Ruslowa on the South-west side of Crosna Boggar then falls into the Caspian And the distance between the East-side of the Volga near Astrachan and the River Actabon is about 20 miles which is mostly Water and Islands And that the Course of the Volga from its first Source until it doth dis-embogue it self into the Caspian Sea can be no less than what we have asserted is hence confirmed That the Snow which falls abundantly in Russia and begins to be dissolved about the latter end of April and do mightily increase the Waters of the Volga come not unto Astrachan until Midsummer when it so raises the Volga that overflowing the Banks it covers with his Waters all the Islands near Astrachan so that from the Little Nagoy unto Actabon in the Great Nagoy all the Countrey seems excepting a Hillock or two one continued Lake or a great Gulf of the Sea Wherefore they who go in the Spring from Astrachan to fetch Wood having cut it make great Floats which are lifted up when the River overflows and guided each by a few Men until they are brought unto Astrachan or those other places for which they are designed The most remarkable Towns and Habitations upon the Volga between Seraichena and Astrachan which are 500 miles distant from each other are Camena Rokegowa Osshenofka Chornoyar Borisse Offatalka Poollowoy Collmakof Satone Cossoyar Crosnoyar Nassonoyar Satone Yanatavy Daneelofka Perre Ousshake Eillansuke Eiskyborro Crukla Bussan Balsheeke Tollotonygorod Dolgoa Goradocha which was old Astrachan Sharina Bogor which is near Astrachan besides many other Places with whose Names I have not charged my memory We will now pass over the Volga through Astrachan into the Great Nagoy The Great Nagoy may be properly enough divided into Islands and Continent the former are made by the Volga and several Rivers which fall out of it variously mix'd with each other and are all at length emptied into the Caspian Sea Those Rivers or Branches have their several Names those which I remember are Cuttoma Boulda Malla Guellusa Creewantya Busane Actabon and Bereket The Kingdom of the Great Nagoy is all plain and desart 1200 miles in length between Astrachan and Samara 500 miles in breadth from the said Astrachan unto the River of the Yeike or Jaick There is no Wood in all this Countrey except what grows near the Rivers It hath no Towns or fix'd Habitations though it had formerly divers and some among them very considerable as Czarofsgorod or Czarofs Pollate in English the Emperor's Town which formerly must needs have been as its Name imports an Imperial or Capital City I have often viewed it with admiration and cannot compute it to have been less than 20 miles in Circuit I have told fourscore great eminent Buildings which must have been either Moschees Pallaces or Caravanseraies and some of them 6 miles distant from the other The Muscovites are of divers Opinions concerning its Destruction Some say it was ruined by the Cossacks but the Cossacks who are ready enough to brag of their Atchievements know nothing thereof only that they have often dispossessed the Russes when they endeavoured to rebuild part of it For indeed the Situation is very excellent having the Volga on one side the Actabon on the other The Countrey very beautiful healthful and fertile and yet notwithstanding all these encouragements it is not yet inhabited not by the Russes because it standing on the main Land they would be continually exposed unto the Inroads of the Tartars nor by the Tartars because its nearness unto the Rivers would render them obnoxious to the Russes every time the great Caravan passes that way which is at least twice each year Yet the Muscovites do frequently fetch Brick and Stones from this ruined City wherewith they have built a great part of Astrachan and the neighbouring Forts or Towns where such solid Materials are imployed But besides this Serai for so the Tartars call any fix'd Habitation there were in ancient times five or six more down along the Rivers side in each of which formerly dwelt a Chan but Time and Wars have almost entirely ruined them There is also another Serai upon the River Jaick named Seraichika where is said formerly to have been the Residence of a great Myrsa or Chan but 't is now quite ruinated The Tartars who inhabit the Great Nagoy both Men and Women are very proper at least of much taller Stature than many other Tartars but have ill-favoured Countenances broad Faces flat little Noses small Eyes sunk in their Heads all which are common to most of the Eastern Tartars But the Tartars of Crim are more comely which I suppose may partly proceed from their Wives who are many of them Captive Circassians Russes Poles Hungars and of divers other Nations The Nagoy Tartars are also Black or rather Tawny which I Conjecture is not so much natural as proceeding from the heat of the Sun which is in these Parts some Months of the Year much
and usually there are about three thousand in the City and the Towns adjoyning The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the custody of another Aga who has under him two hundred Janizaries There are also six hundred Foot-men who have their particular Aga and about sixty Cannoneers who were at that time commanded by an expert Artist that went by the name of Signor Michaël who pass'd for a Turk though he were born in Candy He put himself into the Grand Signor's service when he went to besiege Bagdat in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a small time not so much by virtue of the Breach which Signor Michaël had made in the Wall as the Sedition and Revolt that happen'd at the same instant the Story whereof was thus in short The Kan that sustain'd the brunt of the Siege at first was originally an Armenian and his name was Sefi-couli-Kan He had commanded the City a long time and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks who were not able to take it before But the King of Persia having sent one of his Favourites to command in his room who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach the old Kan finding himself displac'd by the Commission of the new Governour rather chose to dye than survive the Affront which was put upon him To which purpose he sent for his Servants the Officers of the Army his Wife and Son and taking three Cups of Poyson in his Hand he commanded his Wife if ever she lov'd him now to shew the marks of her affection by generously dying with him He gave the same exhortation to his Son and so all three together drank up the Poyson which procur'd their speedy death The Souldiers who had a great love for their Governour having beheld so dismal a Spectacle and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing for a general Assault would not obey their new Kan but began to act like Revolter's and to that purpose they agreed to deliver up the City upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage but the Turks did not keep their words For so soon as the Turks were got into the City the Basha's told the Grand Signor that to weak'n the force of the Persian it was necessary for him to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City and thereupon there were above twenty thousand massacr'd in cold Blood The Turks had seiz'd upon the Capuchins Mansion but Signor Michaël chief of the Canoneers got it to be restor'd them again As to the Civil Government of Bagdat there is none but a Cady who does all acting even the Mufti with a Shiekelaslon or Tefterdar who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signor There are in it five Mosquees of which two are indifferently well built and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varnish'd Tiles of different colours There are also ten Inns all ill built except two which are reasonably convenient In general the City is ill built there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars which are all arch'd else the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats They must also be water'd three or four times a day for which office several poor people are hir'd upon the publick charge The City is full of Trade but not so full as it was when in the hands of the King of Persia for when the Turk took it he kill'd most of the richest Merchants However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts whither for Trade or for Devotions sake I cannot tell because they that follow the Sect of Haly do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat Besides all they that are desirous to go to Mecca by Land must pass through Bagdat where every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piasters to the Basha You must take notice that there are in Bagdat two sorts of Mahometans the first are call'd Rafedi's or Hereticks the second Observers of the Law in all things like those at Constantinople The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Christian and very hardly with the rest of the Mahometans or if they do happ'n to drink out of the same Cup or to touch them they presently wash themselves as believing themselves unclean The others are not so scrupulous but eat and drink and converse with all the World In the year 1639 after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink who desir'd it of him in the Market-place but abus'd him also in words Thereupon the Jew complain'd to the Cady who immediately sent for him and caus'd his Boracho and his Cup to be brought along with him when he came before him he ask'd for his Cup and gave the Jew to drink and then made the Porter drink also out of the same Cup After that he order'd the Rafedi to be Bastinado'd and this Lesson to be taught him while he was chastising That we are all God's Creatures as well Mahometans as Christians and Jews This has made them less zealous in their Superstition though they are the chiefest part of the Inhabitants of the City As to their Funerals I have particularly observ'd that when the Husband dyes the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear and lets her Hair fall about her Ears then she all besmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle and having so done frisks and leaps about after such a ridiculous manner as from others would rather produce laughter than tears All the kindred friends and neighbours meet at the House of the deceas'd and stay for the Celebration of the Funeral At what time the Women strive to out-vie one another in a thousand Apish tricks clapping their Cheoks yelling like mad people and then of a sudden setting themselves to dance to the sound of two Drums like those which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour Among them there is one more accustom'd to this fool'ry than the rest that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns to which other Women make answer by redoubling their Cries which may be heard at a great distance It would then be a vain thing to seek to comfort the Children of the deceas'd for they seem to be so much beside themselves that they are not in a condition to hear any thing And they are oblig'd to carry themselves in that manner unless they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindness for their Parents When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave abundunce of poor people go before with Banners and Crescents at the ends of Sticks singing most dismal Dirges all the way The Women are not to be at the Interrment who are not to go abroad but only upon Thursdays when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for the Dead And because that by their Law the
Cirkassians Tartars and Muscovites live altogether by rapine and continual In-roads into one anothers Countries There are another sort of people which are call'd Kalmouchs that inhabit upon the Coast of the Caspian Sea between the Muscovites and the Tartars The men are strong but the most deformed under Heaven Their faces are so flat and broad that there is the bredth of five fingers between each Eye Their Eyes are very small and that little Nose they have is so flat that there is nothing to be seen but two little holes instead of Nostrils Their Knees also and their Feet turn inward When they go to the Wars they carry their Wives and their Daughters if they be twelve years of age along with them who fight as couragiously as the men themselves Their Arms are Bows Arrows and Skains with a great wooden Mace at the Pummel of their Saddles their Horses being the best in all Asia Their Captain is of some ancient Family but they more particularly choose him for his valour The Duke of Muscovia sends them presents every year to preserve their friendship which presents consist in Cloth And he grants them free passage through his Territories when ever they have a mind to invade the Mengrelians Georgians or Cirkassians at which sport they are much more dexterous than the lesser Tartars Sometimes they advance into Persia as far as the Province of the Usbekes which is a part of Great Tartary ranging up as far as Caboul and Candahar Their Religion is particular to themselves but they are great Enemies to the Mahumetans As for the Comouchs or people of Comania they are Mahumetans and very precise ones too They are under the protection of the King of Persia who makes great account of them in regard they defend the Passes into his Country on that side against the Kalmouchs They are habited both men and women like the Lesser Tartars fetching all the Silk and Calicut which they use out of Persia for as for Cloth they are contented with what they make in their own Country which is very course Circassia is a pleasant good Country and full of variety There are Plains Forrests Hills and Mountains abounding in Springs some of which are so large that some of them will serve seven or eight of the neighbouring Villages But on the other side in all the Rivers that proceed from these Springs there is not a fish to be seen Flowers they have in abundance especially fair Tulips There is a sort of Strawberry also with a short stalk of which five or six grow in a bunch the least are as big as a small Nut of a pale yellow Colour The Soil is so fertile that it brings forth without any great trouble a vast plenty of all sorts of Fruits Nor do the people need any other Gardens than their Fields which are cover'd with Cherry-trees Apple-trees Pear-trees Walnut-trees and all other useful Trees of the same nature but their chiefest Wealth consists in Cattel but especially in well-shap'd Horses not much unlike the Spanish Gennets They have also an abundance of Goats and Sheep whose Wool is as good as that of Spain which the Muscovites fetch away to make Felts They neither sow Wheat nor Oats but only Barley for their Horses and Millet to make Bread nor do they ever sow twice in the same place not but that the Land is good enough to bear Wheat but because they love Bread made of Millet better They have very good Fowl and Venison and Wild-Fowl more than they know what to do withal which they never hunt with Dogs nor fly their Hawks at for their Horses are so swist and so good that they will tire the Beast and force him to lye down and yield Ev'ry Horse-man has a Rope with a sliding-knot ready at the Pummel of his Saddle which they are so dextrous to throw about the neck of the Beast that begins to be weary that 't is twenty to one if they miss him When they have kill'd a Dear they cut off the legs and breaking the Bones eat the Marrow which they say is the best thing in the World to strengthen the Body When they go to steal Cattel they carry along with them great Cows-horns stuft with boyl'd Tripes cut in small pieces then watching their times when the Herdsmen are asleep when the Dogs begin to bark they throw to ev'ry one a Horn with which the Dog presently runs away and so while the Shepherds are asleep and the Dog is busie to get the Meat out of the Horn which is there ramm'd in on purpose the Thieves drive away what they please The Drink of the Sherkes is Water and Bosa Bosa is a Drink made of Millet as intoxicating as Wine which they want in the Country The Men and the Women Boys and Girls go habited all alike and their Habit is a colour'd Robe of Fustian with a kind of large Petticoat underneath with this they wear a little pink'd Wastcoat that reaches down to their Thighs and over that a Cassock of course Cloth that reaches down to their Knees girt about their Wasts with a Cord. The Sleeves of the Cassock are op'n below and above and sometimes they pin them behind their Backs They wear no Beards 'till they are sixty years of age And as for their Hair neither Men nor Women Boys nor Girls ever wear it longer than the tips of their Ears The Men both young and old shave the middle of their Heads about the bredth of two Fingers from the Forehead down to the Nape of the Neck and then instead of Hats or Head-clothes both Men and Women wear only a little Bonnet of the same Cloth as the Cassock made like a Night-cap 'T is true when the Maids come to be marry'd there is some distinction upon their Heads for then they fast'n to the hinder part of their Heads a round piece of Felt which they cover with a white Veil very artificially pleated Their Breeches are ty'd below their Knees and reach to their Ancles their Shooes which are of Cordovan both upper and under Leather have but one seam upon the upper part of the Foot being light and cut like a pair of Pumps As for their Beds they take several Sheep-skins and sow them together and then stuffing them full of Millet-leaves make a kind of Quilt Now when they beat the Millet the Leaf comes to be as small as the Chaff of Oats so that when the person rises off from the Quilt the Quilt rises and swells again of it self Their Cushions are of the same Make only sometimes they are stuft with Wool The People are neither Christians nor Mahometans all their Religion consisting in some Ceremonies which they perform with the greatest Solemnities which they can imagin for at that time old and young of all Ages and Sexes and all the whole Town must be there at the place appointed unless impotency or sickness excuses them I call them Villages for in all these Countries
their is neither Fortress nor City and as for their Villages they are all built after the same Model round with a Piazza in the middle according to the Figure THE PLATFORME OF ONE OF THE VILLAGES OF THE COMOUâ CHAP. XII Of the Ceremonies and Customs of the People of Comania and Circassia THe Principal of all the Feasts which the Comouchs and Sherkes or Cirkassians make is that which they make at the end of Autumn after this manner Three of the ancientest of the Village are appointed to manage it and to discharge themselves of a Duty impos'd upon them in the company of all the people These three old men take a Sheep or a Goat and having mutter'd certain Prayers over the Beast they cut the throat of it after they have drest it very clean they boil it whole all but the Gathers and them they roast The Sheep being boil'd they set it upon a Table and carry it into a large Barn where the People are appointed to meet There the three old men stand upright before a Table and all the People Men Women and Children behind them When the Table upon which the Meat stands is brought in two of the three old men cut off the Legs and the roasted Gathers and hold them up above their heads and the third holds up a great Cup of Bosa in the same manner to the end the people behind may see them When the people see the Meat and Bosa so lifted up they prostrate themselves upon the ground and so continue till all the rest of the Meat be set upon the lesser Table and that the old men have said some few word Then the two old men that held up the Meat cut off two little pieces and give each of them a piece to him that holds the Cup which being done they take each of them a piece for themselves When they have all three eaten of the meat the old man that holds the Cup drinks first then gives the two old men to drink first to him upon the right hand next to him upon the left never letting go the Cup all the while This first Ceremony being thus accomplish'd the two old men turn toward the Assembly and go and present both of the Meat and the Drink first to their Chief or Lord then to all the people who equally eat their share both men and women That which remains of the four feet is carry'd back to the Table and the three old men eat it This done they go and place themselves at the Table where the Mutton is set where the oldest of the three taking the Head eats a little Morsel after him the second and next to him the third does the same Then the first old man commands the rest to be carry'd to the Lord who receives it with a great deal of respect and after he has giv'n it to his next a-kin or the Friend whom he loves best the Head is giv'n from one to another till it be eat'n up This being done the three old men begin to eat of the Mutton a bit or two and the Lord of the Village is call'd who comes with his Bonnet in his hand in a trembling posture to whom one of the old men presenting a Knife he cuts off a piece of Mutton and eats and having drank a Cup of Bosa he returns to his Seat After him all the people according to their turns in quality do as much and then for the Bones the Children go together by the ears among themselves They have another Feast before they begin to Mow their Meadows at which time all the people of the Village that have wherewithal take every one a Goat for in their Ceremonies they esteem Goats better than Sheep and for the poor they join eight or ten together for a Goat Let them be Goats Sheep or Lambs when they are all brought together they cut their Throats and then flea off the skin leaving the four feet and the Head in it Then they stretch the Skin with sticks that cross from one foot to the other aud set it up on a Pole fix'd in the Earth the top whereof enters into the head of the Beast as is to be seen in the Figure of the Village and as many Beasts as there are kill'd so many Poles are planted in the midst of the Village with every one a particular Skin upon it to which every one that passes by maks a profound obeysance Ev'ry one having boil'd his Goat brings it into the void place in the middle of the Village and sets it upon a great Table with the rest There is the Lord of the Village with his Servants and sometimes the Lord of some other Village is invited Now all this Victuals being upon the Table three of the oldest men of the Village sit down and eat a Bit or two Then they call the Lord of the Town and if there be any other Lord they come both together with some other of the Seniors of the Parish who being set down eat up one of the Beasts which the old men had set apart for them the rest is divided among the people sitting upon the ground There are some Villages where you shall have fifty Goats and Sheep or Lambs and Kids kill'd together at one time As for their Bosa there are some that bring above 200 Pints others more or less according to their quality All the day long they eat and drink and sing and dance to their Flutes a dozen together which are in some measure harmonious as consisting of several parts and decreasing proportionably from the Treble to the Base When the old men have solac'd themselves with eating and drinking they go home and leave the young people Men and Women Boys and Girls to be merry by themselves They stay as long as there is any Drink and the next day they go early to Mowing They have other Ceremonies particular only to their Families Once a year in every House they make a Cross after the Form of a Mallet about five Foot high the two Sticks that compose the Cross being as big as a man's Arm. This the Master of the House sets in the Evening near the Door in his Chamber and calling all his Family together gives them every one a lighted Wax-Candle Then first he fixes his own to the Cross next his Wife sticks hers and so all the Children and Servants If the Children be so young that they cannot do it themselves the Father and Mother do it for them If one of the Candles burn out before it be put out ' tisa Prognostick that he or she that fix'd it there shall not live out their year If the Candle falls then he whose Candle it was shall be robb'd or be forc't to fly for his Life If it thunders all the people run out of the Village and the young people of both Sexes set themselves to singing and dancing in the presence of their Elders And if any one be Thunder-struck they