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A29216 A journal of the embassy from their Majesties John and Peter Alexievitz, emperors of Muscovy &c. over land into China through the provinces of Ustiugha, Siberia, Dauri, and the great Tartary to Peking the capital city of the Chinese empire by Everard Isbrand, their ambassador in the years 1693, 1694, and 1695 written by Adam Brand, secretary of the embassy ; translated from the original High-Dutch printed in Hamburgh, 1698 ; to which is added Curious observations concerning the products of Russia by H.W. Ludolf.; Beschreibung der Chinesischen Reise. English Brand, Adam, d. 1713.; Ludolf, Heinrich Wilhelm, 1655-1710. Curious observations concerning the products of Russia. 1698 (1698) Wing B4246; ESTC R29054 54,732 152

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Miles distant from Solok where we were entertained with a very handsome Dinner and pass'd the Day very merrily Near this place his Czarish Majesty employs above 20000 Workmen in making of Salt The Gentleman whom we mention'd before had at his own cost two large Vessels built in this place of 400 Tuns each for the Transportation of Salt and hearing of our coming that way had caused them to stay for some time to make us eye-witnesses of the manner of convoying these Ships and what Order and Discipline there was observed among them Each of these Vessels had 500 Men on board who were to labour without intermission at the Oars relieving each other at certain and convenient times under the Command of several Officers so that by the continual supply of fresh Men these Vessels could perform a great Voyage in a little time Both these Vessels being loaden with nothing but Salt were bound to Casan where they sold it to a great Advantage For whereas the Pode being 40 Pound weight did not stand the Owner in above half a Copeck upon the Spot it was sold at Casan for twelve or thirteen Copecks The night betwixt the 3d and 4th of May it began to Snow and Freeze so hard again as if it had been in the Winter which continuing till the 6th put us to no small trouble being obliged to stay here seventeen Days which however we passed pleasantly enough The worst of all was that by the melting of the Snow and the overflowing of the Rivers we were disappointed in our design of going by Land to Wergaturia situate upon the Frontiers of Siberia which being but a small Place and furnished with very low and indifferent Buildings notwithstanding this has its own Waywode or Governor But as I said before being disappointed in our design we were forced to make use of five Boats each of them Mann'd with five Watermen who by the help of their Oars brought us on the 14th of May as far as Vskogorod but the Wind veering about as we were within sight of the Place drove us back down the River Vsolka into the River Kama They count it 50 German Miles from Solokamsko to Wergaturia On the 16th of May we entred the small River Susora From Solokamsko to this River it is counted 30 and from hence to Vlko 40 Miles Here we were again in no small Danger for the River having overflowen all the circumjacent Country just as we pass'd upon it to such an extraordinary a degree that our Boats often pass'd over the tops of the Trees if there had happened a sudden Fall of the Waters we must have infallibly perish'd but we happily escaped the Danger and arrived safely on the 19th of May in a small City called Niesna Susowa where we refresh'd our selves On the 20th we came to another small Town the Inhabitants of both are employed in making of Salt From hence upwards the River the pleasant Woods and Hills on both sides afford a very delightful Prospect In these Forests you meet with the Agarius Tree whose spongeous substance is from hence carried to Archangel and from thence into other Parts of Europe We saw several Villages on both sides of the River and on the 25th of May took up our Lodgings in one of them situate upon the very Banks of it After we had a little recovered our selves from our past fatigues we had the curiosity to enquire into the Manners and Customs of the People inhabiting those Parts They are called Wogultzoi Subjects to the Czar of Muscovy and are all Pagans much addicted to Superstition Their Stature is low and mean not unlike the Tartars their Habitations having also a great Resemblance to the Tartarian Huts but they are never without a Chimney in them They use a Language different both from the Muscovites and Tartars They being asked concerning their Faith gave us for answer That they believed a Creator who resided in Heaven for whom they had a great Veneration They pay Adoration to the Heavens Sun Moon and Water they sacrifice Horses Cows and Calves They expose their Skins only upon a Pole or high Tree to which they pay their Devotion the Meat they eat afterwards They were altogether ignorant of any thing relating to Baptism they only told us that it was a most ancient Custom among them to name the Child after the most ancient Person of the Village They are very careful to inter their Dead in their best Accoutrements being of opinion that at the Resurrection which they believe without the least sense whither they are to go afterwards every one is to appear in the same posture and condition as he was buried The Muscovites observe many Fasts throughout the Year but these were ignorant of what Fasting meant yet we observed that they did not eat any Fowl but only their Eggs which they look'd upon as a great Dainty Their Marriages are contracted and performed in a very odd manner If a young Man who intends to marry a young Woman comes to ask her Father's consent the Answer is If thou be'st in a condition to pay for her thou may'st have her so they make the bargain as well as they can the Bridegroom being obliged to purchase the Bride from her Father sometimes for 40 sometimes for 50 or more Rubles which amounts to 20 or 30 Pounds sterling The Money being paid the Bride is surrendred to the Bridegroom without any further Ceremony but if the Money be not ready there is no Bride to be had they are yet so civil to allow the Bridegroom a certain time to raise the Money and in the mean while he has the liberty to court his Mistress who when the bargain is fulfill'd is carried veiled to his Bed-chamber After the Bridegroom has gathered the first fruits of his nuptial Bed their Friends and Relations are invited the next day to a Feast where they make themselves heartily merry with Eating Drinking and Dancing till the next morning when after they have made some Presents to the young Couple they part to their own homes What was credibly related to us concerning their Child-bearing Women is no less surprizing than the former For when the time of their Delivery approaches they retire into some Forest or another where they stay for two Months after till having recovered their full strength they return to their Husbands During their stay in the Woods their Husbands dare not approach them under pain of Death these ignorant Wretches being persuaded that there are certain invisible Persons inhabiting these Forests who as they are very careful to preserve these Women against any misfortune that might befal them so they would be sure to punish the Husband with Death if he should be so presumptuous as to come near his Wife whilst she is under their protection in the Forest. We had the opportunity to be present at the Burial of one of their Dogs He was of a very large Size and had been as it seems a good
Hunting-Dog in his life-time for which reason these poor Wretches made sad moans and lamentations for the loss of so serviceable a Creature After having uttered many things in his praise they put him into a Grave dug for that purpose with a piece of Wood under his Head for fear he should lie uneasy and as a Monument of their gratitude for his past Services they erected a little Hutt over his Grave We were credibly informed that it is a very ancient Custom among these People to bury all their Dogs and to reward their past Services in the same manner Their manner of living is very miserable Husbandry being a thing unknown among them Hunting is their only livelihood Sables and the Reen-Deer being the only Commodities this Country affords We pursued our Journey on the 26th of May leaving the small River called Silva Reka on our right Hand and towards Noon the small River Kine on the same side and towards Evening the River Serebrena Reka to the left of us On the 28th of May we passed by Vlko Mesovasa and Sullem Reka to the left of us On the 29th of the same Month we left Vlko Serebrena Reka on the same side and on the Right the River Doria Reka On the 1st of Iune we came to Vlk●gorod a Place fortified after the Russian manner with wooden Fortifications but very small containing not above twenty Families We spent above three Weeks upon the River Susowa our Vessel being sometimes drawn sometimes rowed but always against the Current which by reason of the many windings of the River is very swift and so violent that we were sometimes droven back for a quarter of a Mile before we could recover our selves besides that we met with several Cataracts which took up a whole day before we could pass them and that not without great danger To add to our affliction we were continually pestered with such an infinite number of Gnats that whatever precaution we took it was impossible for us to preserve us against their fury All the way betwixt Solamsko and Vlko we saw nothing but Desarts and Rocks on both sides of us which are most dreadful to behold at a distance and because we could not go further up the River we were forc'd to tarry nine days at Vlko before we could be furnish'd with Land-Carriages which time we spent in providing our selves with Forage and all other necessaries and on the 10th of Iune set forward again in our Journey to Newa leaving our Baggage to follow us the next day The 12th of Iune we travell'd through a Town call'd Ajat situate upon a River of the same name and the 13th to another Town called Romasheva upon the River Resh The Grounds hereabouts are very fertile and well peopled abounding in all sorts of Corn and whereas whilst we were upon the River Susowa we scarce got sight of a Village in 60 Miles we now could not travel a Verst or English Mile without meeting with a good Village where we were furnish'd with every thing we stood in need of Whilst we were in this Town the Inbabitants received Intelligence by Messengers and Letters sent for that purpose that the Calmu●k Tartars to the Number of 6000 had made an Inroad into the next Province where they had made such miserable havock with Murthering Burning Plundering and Driving away both Men and Cattle that they had put all the Country round about under a great Consternation as dreading the same treatment On the 14th of Iune we reach'd Newagorod a small but very pleasant Town it has but an indifferent Fortification not much better than Vlko but is remarkable for its Situation upon the River Newa the Boundary of Siberia on this side This Journey was very pleasant and diverting to us after our former Fatigues and Dangers the Country being everywhere fill'd with Inhabitants and the Fields well cultivated the wild Roses and other sweet Herbs affording a very agreeable scent and a most delightful prospect The pleasantness of the Place invited us to tarry here a whole day which we spent in walking about the Fields and gathering of Roses Lillies of the Valley and such like On the 16th of Iune our Baggage arrived at Newa-Gorod and the next following day we again received intelligence that the above-mentioned Calmuck Tartars were advanced within four days Journey of this Place and that after they had made themselves Masters of a certain Frontier Town which they had besieged they intended to march this way The Inhabitants hereabouts being sufficiently sensible of the Cruelties exercised by these Vagabonds in their Excursions were in most dreadful fear of these Barbarians and we forewarned of the approaching danger hastned the equipment of our Vessel which being got ready in five days after we stay'd not one moment longer but after we had thus spent seven days betwixt hope and fear at Newa we set out from thence on the 21st of Iune steering our course upon the River for Tobolsko being provided with a Convoy of 12 Cossacks of the Garison of Newa for our better security The River Resh falls 5 Miles above Newa into another River where with its stream it loses its Name and is from thenceforward called Niatza The first Town we met with upon this River on the 22d is called Rudna and not far from thence another goodly Town called Nigniske situate in a very fertile and populous Country fit both for Pasturage and Tillage the Fields and Plains being surrounded and covered with Rose-trees which afford a most delightful prospect On the 23d of Iune we pass'd by three very handsome Towns to wit Iebitzke Kerginskoy and Suborara On the 24th we came in sight of the Town called Ialan famous for nothing else but that near it this River joins its Current with the River Kira Towards the Evening we saw another Town at some distance named Krasna Hobod and on the 25th about Midnight came to the City of Tumen It is a large and strong Place being fortified with a very good Wall the Inhabitants are for the most part Tartars who have setled here for the conveniency of Trade They are much more civilized than any of the other Tartars by reason of their frequent Conversation with Strangers Most of these Towns furnish'd us with fresh Water-men who being well rewarded for their pains so warmly ply'd their Oars that we advanced apace I cannot pass by here in silence the extraordinary Liberality and Hospitality of the Inhabitants of these Parts for we scarce could pass by a Town tho' never so indifferent but the Inhabitants would come forth and bring us Provisions and sometimes Furs without the least reward or recompence to our no small astonishment who were not used to meet often with such kind treatment among such Barbarous Nations they being generally of the Tartarian Race The next Town we met with was called Makowa situate on the Confluence of the Rivers Pishma Reka and the Tura which runs by the City of Wergaturia On
the 28th of Iune we came as far as Sutska situate on the Confluence of the Rivers Tura and Tobol The next day we passed by Piesda Reka and Turba Reka and on the 30th of Iune leaving the River Taffda to the Left of us we arrived safely on the 1st day of Iuly in the City of Tobolsko This City which is the Capital of Siberia is situate near the River Tobol about 3000 Miles from the City of Musco It is situate upon a Hill of a large Extent the Suburbs being most inhabited by Tartars There is here a very fair Monastery surrounded with a very strong brick Wall Near this Place the River Irtish joins its Current with the River Tobol Tobolsko is not only the Capital but also the chief Place of Trade of all Siberia Their Traffick consists most in Furrs such as Sables Ermins Fox Skins and such-like The Kingdom of Siberia is watered by a great many large Rivers among which the River Oby is the chiefest This River has many Islands which by reason of the thick Woods are unpassable In some places the Oby is a League in other places half a League broad it abounds in Fish such as Sturgeon White-fish or Belluja's and others The principal Cities of Siberia are Werchaturia Iapahzeen Tumen Tobolsko Narim Tomskoy Kosnezi Krasnojer Ker Ienokisko Ilim Mongassy most of which are very large and populous Cities The Kingdom of Siberia is surrounded by several Tartarian Nations such as the Calmuck Tartars the Tartars of Mongul and others as the Tungoskoy Bratzkoy Ostiacky Barrabinsy governed by their own Princes and each of them distinguish'd by their different Languages The Samoyedes are under the Jurisdiction of the Czars of Muscovy The Natives of Siberia are much addicted to Sorcery and Idolatry The Russians inhabit most of the Cities Czar Iohn Basilovits was the first who brought this Kingdom under his Jurisdiction after he had conquered the two Tartarian Kingdoms of Casan and Astrachan since which time they pay their yearly Tribute of all sorts of Furrs which are found in Siberia to wit Sables Martins red and white Fox Skins which amount to Two hundred thousand Rubles per Annum The Sables are catch'd by the Inhabitants by Traps not unlike our Rat and Mice-Traps but they have also another way of Hunting and Killing the Sables of which we shall have occasion to speak anon They go a Sable hunting with Sleds drawn by Dogs who carry the Sleds with more ease over the Snow than Horses The Czar of Muscovy has the Twentieth of all the Sables that are catch'd throughout the Year we being obliged to stay for some time at Tobolsko as well to repose our selves after so tedious and troublesome a Journey as to make all necessary Preparations for the future we passed our time very pleasantly in the Company of the Waywode or Governor Stepan Ivanovits Sotticove and his two Sons Fedor Stepanovits and Ivan Stepanovits who shew'd us all the Civilities in the World and there pass'd few days but that they either were with us or we with them and entertain'd one another with every thing the Place would afford The Ambassador having dispatch'd in the mean while an Express to their Czarish Majesties and every thing being provided for the prosecution of our Journey we put as many Provisions Forage and other Necessaries on board our two Vessels as would serve us for three Months For from hence to Ienokisko whither we were bound is 6000 Miles for the most part through a desolate Country where there is but little Forage and Provision to be met with Accordingly after we had all taken our leave from the Governor and his Sons we went on board our Vessels on the 22d of Iuly under convoy of 20 Strelitzes or Musqueteers who were to conduct us to Surgutt and directed our Course upon the River Irish towards Ienokisko The 24th we sailed with a fair Gale by a Town called Dernjan but having occasion for fresh Water-men we went on shoar till we could be supplied with some Near this place the River Derjansko falls into the Irtish on the Right hand and the Inhabitants hereabouts being Ostiaky a lazy and idle People we changed our Water-men sometimes twice and thrice a day Of their manner of Living we shall speak more hereafter On the 28th of Iuly early in the Morning we came to a Town called Samurskojam where we stay'd till the 29th when we got on board again by break of day We had scarce sailed two Miles upon the River Irtish when we pass'd into another lesser River which being a Branch of the River Oby we were towed up against the Current and at last on the first day of August entred that famous River Oby This River rising among the Calmuck Tartars from the South-West disembogues in the Tartarian Sea it is very dangerous for Ships by reason of its depth and the many Rocks which render its Waters very boisterous The 6th of August we reach'd the City of Surgutt a Place which has nothing remarkable but a small Garison the Governor of which having given us 16 of them to convoy us to Narim we sent back those we had taken along with us from Tobolsko Hereabouts you see nothing but a barren desolate Country inhabited by a few miserable Wretches who have scarce wherewithal to cover their Nakedness all their Employment being Hunting of Sables Ermins and Foxes They catch here the Sables in a quite different manner from what we have related before for they shoot them with Arrows or they make fire under the Trees where they know the Sables do shelter themselves who being suffocated by the Smoak fall from the Trees and are soon catch'd The Ermins they catch in Traps and the Foxes they hunt with Dogs We stay'd here till the 9th of August when being furnish'd with fresh and sturdy young Water-men who encouraged by the hopes of a good Reward stood briskly to their Oars We passed the 13th the River Wache to the Left of us on the 19th the River Tim and on the 24th arrived safely at Narim a City situate on the left-Left-side of us upon the River Oby It is worth observation that in the Winter-time there is no Travelling from Tobolsko to Narim with Horses but this Journey must be performed in Sleds drawn by Dogs they put three or four of them before the Sled and whip them along as we do our Horses When they go abroad a Hunting they put their Provisions and Hunting tackle such as Bows Arrows Launces and such-like in one of these Sleds drawn by Dogs and thus travel to their rendezvouz which is sometimes 14 or 15 days Journey from their Habitations and many times don't return in two months The Ostiaky living in these Parts make use of these Sleds in the same manner when they go abroad a Fishing so that you may see them bring their Fish to Market in many Sleds all drawn in the Winter-time by Dogs We were provided here with new Barge-men and
saw a dead Sheep and Goat fix'd upon a Tree with the Heads upwards which they told us were two Sacrifices made to the Heavens I made the best inquiry I could concerning their Religion but could get no satisfactory Account only that they used to sacrifice a Sheep and a Goat once a year to the Creator of the Heavens and that they adore the Sun They are very industrious in Breeding of Cattle but especially of Camels for the conveniency of the Caravans travelling to China We came the same Evening to a Monastery on the other side of the Lake situate upon the Frontiers of the Province of Dauri a very large and fertile Country The next Morning being the 12th we passed through the Towns of Kabania and Bolsko Sainko both small Places but well fortified by the Inhabitants they serving them as Bulwarks against the Tartars of Mongul On the 19th of the same Month we came in sight of Vdinskoy and the Ambassador was met three Miles out of Town by an Officer at the Head of 50 Cossacks who conducted him to the City where he was received under the discharge of the Cannon This Place which is considered here as the Key of the Province of Dauri has not been inhabited above six Years The Castle which is very well fortified after the Russian manner lies upon a Hill from whence they have at several times bravely repulsed the Mongul Tartars that assaulted them We lay still here three Weeks which time we spent as we had done at Irkutskoy in buying of Cattle for the conveniency of our Carriage We bought Camels at 10 or 15 Rubles apiece and Horses for 4 5 or 6 Rubles We provided our selves also with as many Oxen as might furnish us with Beef in our Journey to China and back again Being now to travel through the great Desart belonging to the Mongul Tartars we pack'd our Baggage upon Camels and Horses the first carrying about 600 weight the last about 250 We entred the Desart on the 6th of April our Caravan consisting of 250 Men some Hundreds of Camels and Horses and 400 Waggons which in the night-time being drawn up in a Circle enclosed the rest and at some distance from thence we placed our Centries to advertise us of the approach of our Enemies if any should appear But they not daring to attack us took another course to vex us to the utmost of their power for during the space of three Weeks that we travell'd through this Desart where we often were in want of Water for Men and Beast the Monguls and Tongueses burnt that small quantity of dry Winter-grass that was left before us so that being unprovided with Forage we saw our Beasts but especially our Horses drop down dead for want of Fother and what was the worst of all the rest were become so lean that they were almost rendred quite unserviceable We lost above a hundred Horses in this Journey to the great satisfaction of the Tongueses who Iooking upon Horse-flesh as a great Dainty devoured them so soon as we had left them The Tongueses who are dispersed through these Desarts are of the same Religion with the Brattskoy whom we have mentioned before They bury with the dead Corps of their Friends all their best Moveables and if they become decrepit before they die they lead them upon a high Mountain where they burn them and impale their best Horse near it The 24th and 25th of April we passed to the left of us by a Lake called Ierawena abounding with all sorts of very good Fish it is 20 Miles long and 15 broad Here it was we met with the Messenger who had been sent before by the Ambassador to Musko On the 26th we came to a small Place called Ierawena where we provided our selves with as many new Horses as we could get for Money It is to be observed that in the Desarts round about Ierewena there are the best black Sables the Cossacks of Ierwena who are the Sable-hunters hereabouts go abroad a Hunting sometimes for three or four Months together they make use of Scates by the help of which they pass over the Snow with great Agility We bought some of these Sables of them from 8 and 10 to 20 30 and 50 Rubles a pair On the 28th of April we again entred the Desart but met here and there with some Woods The 29th we pass'd on Horse-back the River Vda which arises from a great Lake and is here not above three fathoms broad The want of Fother continuing among our Cattle occasioned by the revengefulness of the Monguls we lost abundance more of our Horses and the rest were so fatigued that we were in danger of wanting Provisions before we could pass the Desarts For which reason the Ambassador commanded 10 Men to go in quest of Horses which they effected with good success for on the 3d of May they met us with a good number of fresh Horses near the Lake called Schack's Oser which is four Miles long and two broad We had the good fortune to find here some Fother for our Horses and Camels which obliged us to stay here till the 5th of the same Month when leaving the Lake to our Left we continued our Journey to another Lake which we pass'd by on the 6th in the Morning and the same day in the Afternoon reach'd the end of this troublesome Desart after a most tedious and fatiguing Journey of near four Weeks The first Place we came to is called Plotbus near the small River Skieta containing not above six Families who are settled there but very lately On the 15th we continued our Journey from Plotbus by Water upon Floats of Wood to Nartzinskoy About a Mile from Plotbus the River Schieta falls into the River Ingeda as the River Okkon joins its Current with the same at a small distance from thence and is afterwards called Schiteka The Rivers Nertza and Argun fall afterwards into the same River out of the last of which arises the famous River of Yamour which disembogues into the Ocean On the 20th of May we came to the City of Nertzinskoy the last Place of Note unless it be Argun a small Town eight days Journey from thence under the Jurisdiction of the Czar of Muscovy Nertzinskoy is situate upon the River Nertza where about 6000 Tungoeses all Subjects to the Czar of Muscovy have their Habitations who have fortified themselves here against their Enemies Hereabouts are abundance of Lucerns and Sables which are in great Esteem among the Chineses We were fain to stay two Months in this place to give time to our Horses and Camels to recover themselves in the adjacent Pastures The Cossacks hereabouts are very Rich by reason of their Traffick with China where they are exempted from paying any Custom We then began to make all the necessary Preparations for our Journey through the Desart we provided our selves with Oxen which were to be killed by the way as occasion should require 50 Cossacks were
dangerous Cataract and arrived safely the same Evening at Ienekiskoy We continued our Journey from thence on the 1st of September by Land to Makoffsko where we arriv'd the 3d day and on the 7th set forward again towards Tobolsko On the 12th we din'd in a Monastery but did not stay longer than till night On the 23d early in the Morning we came to Iam-Kutskoy and on the 26th towards Evening to the City of Narim about a Mile distance from the River Oby where we embarqu'd on the 28th but came on shoar again in the Afternoon by reason of a strong North-wind which was quite contrary to us we were fain to lie here till the 30th On the 3d of October the Wind veering about again to the North we were obliged to come to another again till night when we pass'd by the River Wache The 4th the Wind blew strong again from the North so that we were fain to lie still till the next Morning On the 6th we were stopt again by the North-wind besides which it froze very hard that night On the 8th we got on shoar at Surgutt and on the 9th the North-wind blew very strong against us with great Snows and a hard Frost so that we were obliged to stay on shoar till the 11th when it began to thaw but the North-wind continued till the 13th in the Morning when we set Sail again and pass'd by two Villages the 14th in the Forenoon we entred the River Irtish and on the 15th early in the Morning arriv'd safely at Samorskojam The Ambassador being indisposed staid there till the 14th of November when being restor'd to his former Health by the use of proper Remedies and the River Irtish being quite frozen up in the mean while we continued our Journey from Samarskojam in Sleds On the 19th we came to Demjansko and on the 20th to Tobolsko Betwixt Samarskojam and Tobolsko we pass'd by abundance of Huts belonging to the Ostiaki most of Wood and the Roads were hereabouts very narrow and not well beaten On the 17th of December we left Tobolsko and the 20th in the Afternoon arrived at Tumen From thence we went on the 21st and came on the 23d too early in the Morning to the City of Iapantshin where we staid only till the next day and on the 27th early in the Morning arrived in the City of Wergaturia from whence we went further on in our Journey the 28th In the Year 1695 on New-years-day we came to the City of Sotokamskoy where we staid till the next day On the 5th we reach'd Kaigorod which we left again the 6th and on the 9th came to Iam-Vsga situate upon the River Sisella The 9th we din'd at Iata Pyoldie and the 11th at Ianrspas Vspilsco The 12th we reach'd St. Soto Witzogda where we staid the next day till towards Evening The 14th we came to the City of Vtingha and left it again the 15th towards Evening The 18th we din'd in the City of Totma where we staid till the 19th towards night The 21st early in the Morning we reach'd Schusca-jam and continued our Journey from thencethe next day The 25th we came to Ieresla where we only staid till night On the 27th to Peresla from whence we set forward again in our Journey on the 29th and on the 31st of Ian. at night arrived safely in a Villlage call'd Alexeshe on the River Ianse not above five miles from the City of Musco Here the Ambassador received Orders to stay till the next Morning when Czar Peter Alexievits came to this place to confer with him in private After they had spent some hours together the Czar took the Ambassador along with him to Ischmeiloff and from thence to Brebolensko and we arrived the same day being the 1st of February safely in the City of Musco where we repos'd our selves after our Journey to China in which we had spent 3 years wanting 6 weeks FINIS Some Curious OBSERVATIONS CONCERNING THE PRODUCTS OF RUSSIA Which may serve as A Supplement To the Preceding Treatise Written Originally in LATIN by Henry William Ludolf London Printed for D. Brown at the Black-Swan and Bible without Temple-Bar and T. Goodwin at the Maidenhead over against St. Dunstan's Church Fleet-street 1698. Some Curious OBSERVATIONS Concerning the PRODUCTS OF Russia c. CHAP. I. Of their Minerals THey have three sorts of Salts in Russia the first is boil'd out of Springs of which the best is made at Permia in Siberia The second is their Stone-Salt which is found in great quantity in the Province of Vffa The third is brought to perfection by the heat of the Sun in the Salt-Pits near Astrachan and in Siberia There is also great store of the best Salt-petre to be found as also good Brimstone betwixt Siberia and the River Wolga not far from the Kingdom of Casan but the exportation of it is prohibited There are also some Iron-Mines in Russia and near Olonitz on the confines of Sweden Near Archangel there is Sluida Talck dug which the English call Muscovy Glass In the the Province of Vffa are found very fine Chrystals On the frontiers of Siberia near the River Ienessay there is a Mine which produces an Oar resembling in colour and weight a golden Oar but it is so volatile as to flie away in the Smoak as soon as it is tryed by the Fire Perhaps this Oar is much of the same nature in comparison to Gold what a certain Oar in Germany call'd Bismuth is in respect to Silver it being of the same colour and weight and is found in the Saxon Silver Mines The Russians are destitute of Silver Mines but they often dig some of the Metal out of the old Graves The Mammotovoy which is dug out of the Earth in Siberia is very well worth taking notice of The common People in Russia relate surprising things concerning its Origin For they say they are the Bones of certain Animals which exceed in bigness any living Creature upon Earth They make use of it in Physick as we do of the Unicorn A friend of mine presented me with a piece of it which he said was given him by a Muscovite who had brought it himself out of Siberia which appears to me to be nothing else than a true Ivory The more understanding Sort believe them to be Elephants Teeth which ever since the time of the Deluge have lain thus under ground The Adamavoi-Kost or Adam's Earth is dug out of the Earth near Archangel it is of a black Colour very near as hard as a Stone but its figure resembles the Branches of Trees from whence some conjecture that it is a Wood petrefied According to this Opinion it must be supposed that this Wood being perhaps laid at the bottom of some River whose Current has been choak'd up by the Sands and covered these Woods CHAP. II. Of their Vegetables THE Ground in many Parts of Muscovy is more fertile than can well be imagined by Strangers For it being full of
is 1500 English Miles long in a straight Line for if you will count the Hills and vast Mountains upon which it is built in some Places it would amount at least to 500 more At each Miles distance there is a Tower At the first Gate we entred the Wall appear'd to be much decay'd but at a Musket-shot from thence we passed through another Gate which resembled a large Bastion We were conducted through two more and those three last enclosed a large place with their Walls the three Gates serving for as many Bastions Upon the first Wall we saw a very large Corps de Guards where as they told us there was kept a constant Guard At some distance from the first Wall without the Gate there was also a Watch kept consisting only of 20 Soldiers About a Mile within the Wall we passed by to the left of us the City of Galgan which is surrounded with a very fine stone Wall Near this Place we met with the first Chinese Idols It is to be admired what vast Numbers of Temples the Chineses have dedicated to their Idols all their Cities and Villages are full of them nay you meet with them upon unaccessible Mountains they shew very well at a distance But as to the Figures of their Idols they are so dreadful as if they had been contrived on purpose to strike Terror into the Beholders They are made either of Wood or Clay and are sometimes gilt In all their Temples you meet with a certain Idol which being of a terrible aspect holds a Scepter in his hand him they call the God of War and pay a great deal of Veneration to him This God is surrounded with Drums of all sizes which are beaten whilst they are at their Devotion We were Quartered in the Suburbs and at our arrival were met by their Pipers and others who play'd upon Cymbals and beat the Drums but made a very doleful noise The Adogeda invited us to Supper where we were very well entertain'd and were treated with Tarrasun a Liquor made of Rice After Supper the Adogeda diverted us with a Play or rather Farce acted by the Players that were sent from Peking to meet him What was most remarkable was that they acted the Mimicks to the life and changed their Postures and Cloaths which were extraordinary Magnificent frequently to our great astonishment On the 28th of October we passed by another Chinese City and towards Evening arrived in the City of Xantuning where the Ambassador was entertained by the Governor with a magnificent Feast and another Play All the Apartments were hung with very rich Tapistry and the whole Entertainment was very noble The Ambassador the Governor and the Adogeda were plac'd each on a Table by themselves but we were all put together on one Table The dishes were brought in one after another but none taken away till after the Feast was ended There were in all eight Courses and as often as a dish which were all of Purcelain was brought in the Clerk of the Kitchen led the way admonishing the Guests to eat heartily At the beginning of the Feast the Adogeda putting out his Sticks show'd them to the Ambassador as a Signal that we should follow his Example Before Dinner we were entertained by a Boy of 10 years of age who very naturally acted the Mimick and made strange Postures upon the Ground which was covered with Tapestry Which done seven Purcelain Cups were placed upon a Table which he took up backwards with his mouth which he repeated afterwards holding his hands upon his back This was followed by an Entry where a Man and a Woman acted the Lovers and to conclude the matter a Man dressed up in a Tigers Skin pass'd through the Room upon all-fours to the no small astonishment of those who were ignorant of the contrivance The Feast lasted above three hours and the Adogeda desiring the Ambassador to take a Walk with him they were just going to take their leave when one of the Adogeda's Servants whispering his Master that the After-course was going to be served up they changed their Resolution and stay'd near two hours longer during which time they were again diverted by the Players who changed their Cloaths 8 or 10 times The 29th of October we came in sight of the City of Xunguxu in this as well as in all other Cities where we pass'd the Ambassador was treated with all imaginable Respect and Civility We were again entertain'd in this City with a Play in a Play-house fitted up for that purpose In one of their Temples there we saw a Goddess which being of Stone 128 Feet high had 700 Hands I had often the curiosity to enter their Temples and to take a view of their Idols who are of very different shapes and figures and very terrible to behold but most magnificently dress'd Near this Place there is a famous Pagan Temple built upon a very high Rock near the Monastery of Iugangu On the 30th of October as we were travelling upon the Road we met a great Number of Men and Women who followed an Idol carried by two Men and play'd merrily upon their Pipes Cymbals and Drums The Ambassador asked the Adogeda What the meaning was of this Procession To which he answer'd That they were going to a neighbouring Temple to perform their Devotion The same day we pass'd in sight of a goodly Place called the Red City the Residence of the Sister of the Bogdegan and famous for the Tombs of several Chans This City lies near the Chinese Wall we were fain to take up our Lodgings that night in a Village Early the next morning the Adogeda sent word to the Ambassador that having some business of moment to dispatch he begg'd his pardon that he could not wait upon him immediately but that if he would be pleased to go before he would follow him as soon as possibly he could We had scarce rid three or four hours when the Adogeda's Steward overtook us near one of their Temples desiring us to tarry a little in this place his Master being upon the Road to overtake us We took this opportunity to take a view of the Temple where meeting with three more of the Adogeda's Servants we saw them prostrate themselves first before the Idol that stood in the middle of the Temple and afterwards to perform the same Ceremony to two others that stood on both sides of it Towards noon we got to the City of Xangote where having been entertained with a very handsome dinner by the Governor we continued our Journey and took up our nights Lodging in a Countrey Town The first of November the Ambassador was again treated at dinner by a Governor of another City and was Quartered also in another Countrey Town at night All the way as we passed along the Roads we met with such a prodigious Number of most magnificent Temples that we could not but admire at the ignorance of these people who shew so much Veneration to
these Idols The 2d of November we came to the great and famous City of Tunxo situate on a River where the Ambassador was invited also to dinner by the Governor who conducted us afterwards out of the Town That night we were Quartered in the next Town to the City of Peking The City of Tukxe is famous for its Traffick in Purcelain which is sold here much cheaper than in Peking The Chinese have a way of Pleating their Sails together in a very small Compass On the 3d of November towards noon we made a publick Entry in the Capital City of Peking in very good Order and great Splendor the Streets being crowded with vast Numbers of Spectators on both sides of the way which raised such a dust that we scarce could see one another We had our Lodgings assigned us in the Court which is the ordinary Residence of Foreign Ambassadors On the 12th of November the Adagada and his Tawares or Associate waited upon the Ambassador to give him notice that he was to be admitted to his publick Audience the next day and to be conducted thither by 30 Horses desiring him to get his Credentials and the Presents ready against that time He asked the Ambassador who was to carry the Presents and being answered That this was to be performed by the Cossacks he shew'd his dislike desiring that it might be done by some of his Retinue which the Ambassador refused telling him That when they were carried to the place where they were to be delivered he would do it with his own hands wherewith he was very well satisfied desiring only that they might be conveyed with good Couverts Matters being thus settled the Ambassador drank to him a Glass of Spanish Wine to the Health of the Dorgamba who being one of the first Men of the Empire he took it off to the bottom whereas before this time we could never persuade any of them to pledge us they being a very obstinate people and very noisy with their Tongues if not gratified in their desires It was the 14th of November before the Ambassador could be in readiness to deliver his Credentials when we were conducted to Court in the following manner 15 Cossacks who carried the Presents led the Van these were followed by one of the Masters of the Jewel-Office belonging to the Czar of Muscovy After him the Secretary of the Embassy who carried the Credentials After him came the Ambassador betwixt the two Adogeda's and lastly the rest of the Gentlemen belonging to the Ambassador At the Entrance of the Castle we did alight from our Horses and marched on foot through a long Gate arch'd on the top Before we entred the second Gate we pass'd over a very fine Stone-Bridge about 50 or 60 Paces long on both sides of which we took notice of a Wall about three foot high with many Figures cut in Stone Within the Gate we were conducted through a very spacious Court where we saw two large Pillars very artificially wrought with variety of Figures From thence we went into a very fine Hall where we found two Tables No sooner were we entred there but the Adogeda desir'd the Ambassador to sit down upon the Ground upon such Bolsters as were brought thither for that purpose and soon after we saw four Lords who are the Chiefest of the whole Empire to enter the Room before the Bogdegan himself These four were the Dorgamba the Askamba the Aligamba and the Adogamba After the Credentials were delivered to the King himself the Presents were given to the Adogeda who laid them upon the two Tables Which done the Dorgamba with the other three Lords came up to the Ambassador and after having made their Compliments and given him each both their Hands the Dorgamba after his congratulatory Speech upon our happy arrival enquir'd after Health of both their Czarish Majesties telling him that his Credentials should be forthwith translated and he to receive an Answer to the same After which he told him what allowance was to be given to himself and his Retinue to wit every day for the Ambassador himself two Sheep one Goose three Pullets three Fish a large measure of Flower a large measure of Rice two Pound of Butter two Papers of Thee Salt and other Things proportionable besides two Gallons of Tarrasun The rest of his Retinue and other Servants had the same Allowance as before with some addition of Flower Butter and Tarrasun The Ambassador being reconducted to his Quarters by the two Adogeda's scarce three hours were pass'd before the youngest of the two Adogeda's brought word that the Czar's Letters had been receiv'd with a great deal of Satisfaction desiring him in the Bogdegan's Name to come and take a share with all his Retinue of his own Table As they were going along the Streets to Court on Horse-back the Adogeda told the Ambassdor that he ought to look upon this Invitation as a most particular Grace it being not customary for Ambassdors to receive this Honour immediately after the delivery of their Credentials Being entred the same Hall where the Credentials had been deliver'd before the Adogeda invited the Ambassador to sit down and soon after entred the same four Lords before the Bogdegan and saluted the Ambassador very obligingly Immediately after four Tables were brought into the Room two of which were cover'd with forty Silver Dishes full of all Sorts of Sweet-Meats for the Amhassador the other two where there were also some Sweet-Meats and a Dish with boil'd cold Mutton fell to our share After Dinner we were treated with Thee boil'd in Milk in wooden Dishes which we took and re-delivered to the Servants with making deep Reveences So soon as the Ambassador arose from the Table all his Sweet-Meats were given to his Attendants but what was left upon our Tables was divided among the Cosacks The 16th of November the Dorgamba with several other Chinese Lords and the two Adogeda's came to pay a Visit to the Ambassador who entertain'd them with a Sett of very good Musick at which they seem'd to be extreamly well satisfied and after they had staid some time the Ambassador made to the Dorgamba these following Presents A large Looking-Glass with a black wooden Frame A less Looking-Glass A round Looking-Glass with a gilt Frame Two Watches Twenty pieces of gilt Leather Several fine Cuts Six very fine Crystal-Glasses A large Case for Glasses Three large Dogs spotted like Tygers A fine black Gun-Dog A piece of fine Hollin Linen-Cloth Four Lac'd Handkerchiefs Besides some Sables black Foxes Ermins and other Siberian Commodities which were received in a most obliging manner by the Dorgamba On the 17th of November two Heralds at Arms were sent to invite the Ambassador and fourteen of the Gentlemen of his Retinue to the Bogdegan's Table and we were not a Musket-shot from our Quarters before we were met by the Adogeda's who conducted us into the Castle Being entred the same Hall where we had deliver'd our Credentials before The
all over with Tapistry and behind the Dorgamba stood a little Page with a Basket made of Straw-work which was the Dorgamba's Spitting-Pot Thus we spent the greatest part of the day with a great deal of Diversion and on the 19th being a great Feast day at Court we were again splendidly Entertained at the Bogdegan's Table In the year 1694. on the 6th of Ianuary and on the 16th we were again invited to the Bogdegan's Table On the 26th of the same month the Dorgamba obliged us with the sight of a very fierce Panther and the same day we were again admitted to the Bogdegan's Table On the 27th we paid a visit to the Jesuits who treated us with a very good Breakfast Their Church is a very curious piece of Architecture with a fine Organ which is placed on the outside of it towards the Street There were at that time eight Fathers of that Society at Peking On the 29th it was a hard Frost with a strong North Wind and abundance of Snow On the 4th of February both the Adogeda's brought Orders for the Ambassador to make his Appearance at Court Accordingly we went on Horseback to Court on the 5th of February where after we had been entertain'd very splendidly at the Bogdegan's Table the Ambassador was told that according to his desire he should be dismiss'd in twelve nights Accordingly on the 15th of Febr. the Bogdegan sent one of his Coutiers to the Ambassador to desire him to come to Court the next morning with all his Attendance and the Cosacks to receive the usual Presents of the Bogdegan The day before we went to Court we were treated at the Bogdegan's Charge at our Quarters when the Ambassador with his whole Attendance went on Horseback being conducted by the Adogeda's into a spacious Court where we received the following Presents A Horse with Bridle and Saddle and all other Accoutrements A Chinese Cap with a Silk Puff on the top of it A Sur-toot of Damask Brocaded with Gold Serpents and lined with Lamb-Skins A Scarff a Knife 6 Handkerchiefs and 2 Tobacco Bags A pair of Leather Boots and a pair of Silk Stockings A piece of Black Sattin of 10 yards A piece of Ludan of 20 yards 16 pieces of Kitaick 7 Lan of Silver worth 14 Crowns The Ambassador's Gentlemen had each of them the following Presents A Chinese Cap with a red Silk Puff on the top A Damask Surtoot lined with Lambs-Skin A piece of Sattin of 10 yards A piece of Ludan of 10 yards A Scarff with a Knife 2 Tobacco Baggs and 6 Handkerchiefs One pair of Leather Boots with a pair of Silk Stockings quilted with Cotton 16 pieces of Kitaick One Lan and a half of Silver worth 3 Crowns The Cosacks and Servants received each the following Presents A piece of Sattin of 10 yards Eight pieces of Kitaick One Lan of Silver On the 18th of February the Ambassador being again invited to Court the Dorgamba told him that if he were ready for his departure the Carriages should attend him the next morning at his Quarters I am not ignorant that in this place I ought to give the Reader a particular Account of the Manners Customs and Religion of the Chineses but I will content my self to give only in this Journal a general Account of the Empire of China and its Capital City called Peking The most Potent Empire of China is known under several Names among Foreign Nations The Tartars call it Katay those of Siam Sin the Iapanneses Than and some of the Tartarian Nations call it Han. The Chineses themselves have given it many Sir-names for among the many Families that have sway'd the Chinese Scepter each Founder of its Race has assigned it its particular Title Thus it is called Than broad without measure Iu Peace Tha large Sciam pleasant Cheu complea● but among all the rest the Chineses have retain'd two the first of which is Chungehoa that is the Middle Empire and Chunque which is the Middle Garden being of Opinion that the Earth was four Square and their Empire in the midst of it This vast Country was in the year before the Birth of Christ 2254 divided into 12 Provinces by their Emperor Xucus and by his Successor Iva into 9 which at that time comprehended only the Northern Provinces as far as the River Kiang But after the Southern Parts were united with this Empire it was divided into fifteen Provinces Most of them were formerly under the Jurisdiction of their own Princes but after they were Conquered and United with the Chinese Crown were Governed by Viceroy's who to this day have the Administration of Affairs in those Places It is divided into the Northern and Southern Part. The first is that which is properly called Katay by the Tartars and comprehends 5 Provinces to wit Peking Xantung Xansi Xiemsi Honan to which some add the Province of Leaotung and the Peninsula of Corea The other 9 Provinces are Nanking Chekiang Kiangsi Huquang Suchuen Queicheu Iunnan Quangsi Quantung Fockien which by one general Name are called by the Tartars Mangin The North and Southern Provinces are divided by the River Kiang by the Chineses called the Son of the Ocean The Empire of China borders on the East on the great Eastern Ocean called by the Chineses Tung Towards the North on the Chinese Wall which divides it from the Great Tartary on the West it has the Mountain of Thebet to the Confines of Bengala On the South-side is the Kingdom of Couchinchina which is Tributary to the Chineses Empire It s whole Breadth from the Isle of Hanon situate under the 18th Degree of North Latitude to the 42th Degree of North Latitude is 330 German Leagues It s length from the West under the 112th Degree till East under the 34th Degree near the City Ningpo or Nampo is 450 German Leagues This whole Empire seems both by Art and Nature made impregnable For on the West side is the Mountain of Thebet and the great Desart of Xama On the North side the famous Chinese Wall which was begun to be built in the year 215 before Christ's Birth and was finished in 5 years On the South and East it is surrounded with the Ocean where by reason of the many Rocks and Sands there is no no safe Landing unless it be in a few places The City of Peking the Capital of the Empire and Residence of its Kings has borrowed its Name from the Province of Peking which on the East Borders on the great Gulph betwixt Corea and Iapan on the North-East upon the Province of Leaotung on the North upon the Great Tartary and part of the Chinese Wall and on the West the Province of Xansi This Province has 8 famous Cities to wit Peking Paoting Hokian Chinting Xunte Quanping Taming and Iunping The City of Peking is situate under 39 Degrees 59 Minutes upon the Northern Confines of the Province of Peking not far from the famous Chinese Wall On the South side it is