of November to the 8th of January until his Shop was finished From thence I went to walk in the Fields to take the fresh Air because of the great Filth of this City of Seville which causes there a very bad Air which is pursued by a great Number of Diseases As I was traversing on Foot some Mountains to observe the Nature of Trees I met with an honest Cavalier named Pedro Sancha as I knew since who courteously invited me to come and lodge at his House in a little City called Corea or Coria not far from thence which I could not well refuse He entertained me very kindly and I stayed there till the next Day then I reassumed my way to the Mountains where I was for some Days taking notice of the Plants and found store of Rosemary and a great quantity of Mastick-Trees with which the Country is mighty abounding amongst others I gathered some Thistles called Chameleonis-Ally some Flowers of Narcissus and some Mandrake-Apples which they call Sâ—bollas de Villana After that when I saw that I had but bad Entertainment in these Desarts where most commonly I found nothing but Water and some Raisins to eat and sometimes a little Bread in the Shepherd's Cabins I returned towards Corea and visited my honest Host the Sieur Pedro Sanche who was very glad to see me and made very much of me He afterwards came to see me at Seville to have the Interpretation of some Receipts which had been given him for his Wife who was with Child From thence I returned to Seville where the Sieur Juan Sanche the Apothecary would have perswaded me to tarry with him but I had my Voyage of the Indies so in my Head that I had no mind to tarry there but took my way streight to St. Luear and sailed along the River with a great many other Persons for Company in a Boat We arrived in the Night-time at St. Lucar and I went to lodge with my former Host who was called Bastanuil Biscain I continued there for some Days to wait for an Occasion to embark But my bad Fortune would have it so that the Vessels which were then in the Port durst not venture out because they had Advice that from Argier and other Places of Barbary were put out to Sea near Fifty Vessels who guarded the Coasts and were separated 10 15 and 20 Ships towards each Height and Cape where they thought they were to pass so that they took all they could meet with Seeing my self thus retained and without much Commodities to live by having already spent the most part of what I had I was constrained in expectation of better Conveniency to place my self with an Apothecary of St. Lucar who made me promise to serve him for some time But as Fortune never left Persecuting of me so this poor Man returning one Night from Supper in the City was arrested Prisoner by the Command of the Duke of Medina Sidonia and after that the Justice came to his House and seized upon all his Papers where the Algâ—aziles or Sergeants made a strange Ravage They accused him for having made some Libel against the Duke I spent this Night with no small Trouble and Uneasiness The next Day I went again into the Fields to go towards the Port St. Mary where I made so much hast after having passed many Places by Water and bad way that I arrived there at Night in Company of a Religious Jacobin who shewed me a great deal of Courtesie and caused me to lodge with him in the House of a Muleteer The Day following I took the way of Xerez de la Frontera and had no small Trouble before I could come there for the great Abundance of Waters which I found by the way At last having escaped them as well as I could and being very weak in regard of the great Hunger I endured by good Fortune I met with two Men in sight of Xerez who courteously invited me to eat with them and being sate down to eat they fell to discoursing of several Things and amongst others came upon my Subject speaking of Hunger and that it is the most easie to be supported when one stirs not from a Place without doing any thing or when one is at Work and thinks of doing some other thing At last one of them concluded that he was sensible of more Hunger when he was doing nothing than when he was at work and found that there was some reason for it in regard that Action diverts the Thoughts And I remembred that I heard reported how that the several sorts of Plays as Cards Dice Tables and others were at first invented to amuse Men during a great Scarcity of Victuals and by this means to divert them from thinking upon their Hunger And therefore 't is said That Drake that samous English Captain returning home from his great Voyage about the World which he had encompassed one Day as he found himself in great necessity of Victuals and saw his Men ready to starve with Hunger he caused them to play to divert themselves and when they were thirsty he advised them to sleep to refresh themselves This Scarcity was so great as I have heard some English say That they were forced to eat some Blacks which they had brought along with them and having found near England a Vessel loaded with Victuals they eat so much thereof that the most part of them died by over charging themselves But to return to Xerez Being arrived Xerez there tho' not without abundance of trouble passing through the City I by chance found my self near the Shop of an Apothecary where there was some Surgions discoursing together When they saw me they cast out some Words of Mocking because of my Garb à la Francois But I returning towards them told them a few Words of Chirurgery in Latin which they being ignorant of they knew not what to answer except by naming to me to surprize me a certain Composition called Hieralogodâ—i but I asked them if they knew not whether it was Hierapachii which is one and the same thing at which they were put to a Nonplus And thus I left them there and kept on my way and by good Fortune met in this City with a French Man a Britan who lived with a Cavalier and took me along with him where he made as much of me as he could There I found a Persian Slave who hearing me speak of his Country and the East-Indies was so overjoy'd that he called me his Kinsman and made me as good Chear as he could in this House where he had much Credit This City of Zerez is situated on high in a very pleasant Country as all the rest of the Province of Andalousia and is not far from the little River Ovadalâ—t famous for the great Battel fought there where Roderick the last King of Spain lost his Life with all his Nobility at which time the Moors render'd themselves Masters of all Spain The Soil is
were deceiv'd as well by the Currents as the Cards we had with us which were false we finding but one which was sure for those Parts for instead of going to the Islands aforesaid we passed along by the Isle of Tobaco and Trinidad and cast Anchor at the White-Island where we could find no Water of which we were in great want 'T was no small Astonishment to me how such infinite Multitudes of Cabrits and wild Goats besides other Animals which are there could live without so much as a drop of Water But the Divine Providence has otherways order'd it as I have above-touched by the cool Nights and the Dew with which these Beasts refresh themselves From thence we went to Margurite Island but we found no more Water there than we did at the other and so to the Mouth of the River of Cumana where the People of a Dutch Ship had told us we should find some as we did at the entrance of the River This shews the Necessity of having good Cards and well rectified But to return to the Three Continents or firm Lands from the which all the Earth is separated by Waters The first was by the Ancients divided into Three Parts to wit Europe Asia and Africa all joining together The second unknown to the Ancients and discover'd in our Days by Christopher Columbus in the Year 1492 and by Americus Vespusius 1495 is America which for its vast Extent is divided into Two Parts Peru and Mexico The Third is Terra-Australis or Magâ—llanique thus called because of Ferdinand Mâ—gâ—llan who first found it out in the Year 1519. 'T is suppos'd to be very great but for the most part uninhabited and desart 'T is also called Terradâ—l Fuâ—go for the great quantity of Fire there seen the which renders it infertile and uninhabited there being several Mines of Sulphur which cause those Fires as I saw in going to the East-Indies for passing by the Isles of Cape-Verd there is one of them called Fuâ—go because of the Fire there continually seen and is very high One Night we sailed round about her and seeing the Flames in great abundance coming out of the Earth in all parts we were not a little surpriz'd and the next Day passing along by this same Island with a very boisterous Wind and approaching somewhat nigh the Wind drove the sulphurous Vapours just into our Europe Faces which were very unsupportable and stinking Europe the first of the Three Continents is the least in extent and for her Fertility gives not place to the others but for Arms Laws Policy Relâ—gion Sciences Arts and all sorts of Vertues she surpasses them by far And of the Provinces of Europe France alone is the Principal according to the Judgment of the Nations her Enemies whether you consider the Goodness Fertility and Beauty of her Lands the Excellency and temperature of the Air Salubrity and Abundance of her Waters and Number of Inhabitants or in regard of the Manners of her People their Piety Valour Erudition Justice Discipline Liberality Freeness Courtesie Liberty and all other Qualities Military and Civil In short the Renown of the French has been such by their Conquest in the East that their Name remains there for an Eternal Memory So that to this Day throughout all Asia and Africa they call all those who come from Europe by the Name of Franghi let them be of what Country soever The Fertility of France is such that she furnisheth abundantly Spain Portugal Italy and Barbary not only with Corn but several other Commodities and I verily think that every Year there goes from Provence Languedoc Bretagne Poitou Xaintoign and Normandy above Six thousand Ships laden with Corn and other Merchandise To Lisbon only there comes above a Thousand as well great as small And I believe that the Spaniards and Portugueses could not furnish Corn for so many Voyages were they not supplied therewith from France to make Biscuit besides Sails Cordage Salt Flesh and other necessary things to furnish their Ships The Principal Provinces of Europe are France Spain Germany High and Low Italy Sclavonia Greece Hungary Poland Danemark Sweden Muscovy and the Isles of England Scotland Ireland Island Groneland Sicilia Candia Malta Sardania Corse Corfu Majorica Minorica and others of the Archipelago Asia the second Part of our first Asia Continent is of very great Extent Riches and Fertility and ever very Renowned for having born the greatest Monarchies and first Empires as of the Assyrians Babylonians Persians Greeks Parthians Bactrians Indians and others and at this Day the Turks Persians Arabians Tartars Mogols Chineses and other Indians But above all this Part is the most esteemed for the Creation of the first Man planted in the Terrestrial Paradice Colonies and People coming from thence and dispersed through the rest of the World and moreover for the Redemption of Mankind and the Operation of our Salvation acted therein besides for having given Religion Science Arts Laws Policy Arms and Artifices to all the other Parts In short for its inestimable Riches the Wisdom and Dexterity of its Inhabitants Her most celebrated Provinces are the Countries of the Great Tâ—rk of Persia the Great Mâ—gul the â—rand Tâ—rtar Arabia China Indâ—storn of the Eâ—st-Indies Gâ—zarat Cambaya Malâ—bar Coromandel Bengall Pegu Stam and the rest of the Iâ—dâ—es on this and the other side the Ganges The Isles are innumerable as Zâ—ilan Sumatra the Java's Molucco's Philipians Japan Maldaves and others The last Part of this first Continent is Africa separated from Europe Africa by the Mediterranean-Sea and from Asia by the Isthmus of Egypt and the Red-Sea making as it were a Peninsula encompass'd on all sides by the Sea save by this Neck of Land which is betwixt Egypt and Palestine It s principal Provinces are Egypt Barbary Fez and Morocco Aethiopia or Abyssine Nubia Lybia Guinia Congo Monomotapa and others of the South This Part is very good and fertile in some Places but it contains several great and sandy Desarts without Water That part of Africa unknown to the Ancients and discover'd by the Portuguese about the Year 1497. is called by the Arabians Zanzibar and extends from the Lakes where the Nile takes its Original to the Cape of Good-hope containing several good Countries bordering upon Monomotapa as amongst others Cefala and Cuama from whence is gotten great quantity of fine Gold insomuch that it has been the Opinion of several That those Countries of Cefala and Cnama was the Ophir where Solomon sent to fetch Gold tho' others think 't was rather Malaca and other Places of the East-Indies and some will have it to be Peru in the West The last Continent of the World is that Part which we call America America and which as I have said is divided into Two Principal Parts Mexico in the North and Peru in the South separated by the Isthmus of Banama There are several Provinces and People of different Languages Manners and Fashions The greatest City
began to cry out for Famine The House of the Consul of France fell upon him and killed him Several other Houses fell also by this disaster of Inundation which came in a Night without so much as dreaming of The City of Tripoly is situated in a A Description of Tripoly Valley below Mount Lebanon and has still an old Castle with square Towers built formerly by the French the then Lords of the Holy-Land There is at present a Garrison of Turks The City may be as big as Pontoise and there is but a small River that passes that way which is very subject to break out of its Banks when the Snows of the Mountain melt and then does a thousand Mischiefs as I have seen when I happened to be there All the rest of the time one may pass almost dry upon the Stones The City is very well built the Houses low except those of the Great Ones and there inhabits a great Number of Grecian Christians Jews some French and Italians Those of Marseilles trade mightily there There is also a Bassa or Governour who in the Summer goes with his Nobility to lie in Tents in the Meadows betwixt the Port and the City and there exercise themselves at the Launce and Sword This City is about Nine Days Journey from Aleppo The Spring being come I began to Parting for Jerusalem think of going to Jerusalem and for this purpose parting the 9th of April 1612. with a Mouquary or Turkish Carrier we took our way towards Damascus and the first Night lay in a little Meadow by a River-side where we endured no small cold because of the Winds which come from these Mountains laden with Snow The next Day we raised our little Caravan which consisted of Turks and Jews and a Greek Christian and his Sister This young Grecian Girl was not above Twelve Years of Age and was very vertuous and brisk being mounted upon her little Ass which was led by her Brother We passed many Mountains and arrived at a Habitation of Arabians where we had but very bad Lodging lying along the Walls of the Houses which are in very dirty Places I made my Pillow of a Stone The next Day we went to Dine at Armel a little City of the Arabians Armel and then retired into a House of Pleasure very stately and magnificent but there was none in it it serves only for a retiring Place and Lodging for the Caravans they giving so much to the Porter who is the Keeper thereof This House is furnish'd * After the Moorish manner a la Moresque and strong enough to hold out an Assault A certain Turk who returned from the Bassa of Tripoly caused it to be built after this manner The Bassa commanded him to be taken and brought into his presence telling him That being his Subject he was greater than he in regard of the sumptuous and strong House which he had caused to be built that he might rebel against him and thereupon commanded his Head to be chopp'd off in recompence of several good and notable Services he had done him Parting from this Place we went along by a Rivolet to lodge upon a little Hill within the enclosure of certain Walls very low where there was a small Cottage of the Arabians We lay along the Wall and passed the Night with great fear of the thievish Arabs We parted from thence betimes in the Morning and came to Bailbec a very ancient City where Bailbec formerly lived Christians the Ruines of a Church remaining there yet I went into the City with my Mouquary which was the Turk that furnished me with a Horse to ride upon and there we sought for a little Wine but privately it being forbid to sell any We found some White very good at the House of a Grecian who earnestly desired us to hide it They failed not to come to search our Cloaths and other things but they could not find it for we had locked it fast up We lay without the City along the Walls which are made of great Stones not of Masons Work but roughly set one upon another each one above 12 or 15 Foot long The Bassa of this Place went out about Noon with all his Cavalry and Infantry going to some Place not far from thence upon a Quarrel which he had against the Bassa of Damascus He marched in excellent good order especially for Turks and Arabians to observe We dislodged from this Place two or three Hours before Day passing by Rocks of which the most part were Aquaeducts broke and thrown down and the Veins and Pipes bigger than ones Arm are still to be seen through which flowed the Water before they were broke down There is amongst others one of these Rocks slit in two about 3 or 4 Leagues from Damascus and the River of Jordan which comes Jordan from Mount Lebanus passes with great swiftness very near it there is a Bridge over which we passed Along by this River are places cut like Caves within the Rock where lived formerly certain Hermits and truly the Place is very proper for a solitary Life being exceeding desert and of difficult access We went to lie in a certain Habitation and the next Day we arrived at Damascus which was on Palm-Sunday Damascus Eve the 14th of April I went to take a Lodging in the House of one Ibrahim a Rabbi of the Jews to whom I had been recommended by a Cousin of his which I had known at Tripoly He received us after the best manner he could but we supped but badly because it was the Day of their Sabbath in which they dare scarce touch any thing The next Day I so ordered the Business with this Jew my Host that he gave me one of his Servants to conduct me and help me to buy an Ass They were at that time making Preparations for their Passover and I saw them buy Sheep in a Market for that purpose Passover of the Jews and this Servant chose the fattest for his Master so that I had much adoe to hale him to the place where I knew there was an Ass to be sold which had been brought from Tripoly with us I bargained for it for 19 Pataques Pataques and a half one for the Jew I exchanged my Money taking for Spanish Money Pieces of Albouquelque to give to the Cafars and gained 55 for 50 for the Cafars go for as much Cafars as those of Spain Albouquelques are pieces of German Money having the Albouquelques mark of a Lyon the Turks take it for a Dog and therefore call them Albouquelques or Dog-pieces I desired also my Jew to find me out a Turk which he did and promised him a Patache a Day but he was to find himself with Victuals As for this City of Damascus it is very fine and pleasant having most delicate Gardens and is seated in a Valley as it were in the middle of a Meadow and
habit of the City after the Spanish fashion which one of the Souldiers of the Castle had lent me and so I entered Madera to visit this General where I tarried untill the time of our Embarquement Whilest I was visited and stripped by these people of the Gard-maor in changing my habit I had forgotten my Purse which I left in my pocket But these Gallants had remembred to handle it and took out the most part of my money for me before I perceived it and had I not returned presently again to see after it they had not left me so much as a blanck Now one night as we were all Design to save themselves with-drawn into our Ship except the Spanish Captain and the Pilote our Captain took a resolution with Six of his men who were there to play the Spaniards a fine trick before the Master and Pilote came on board and the Captain 's Mate was ordered to lead the others to the bottom of the Ship promising to make them drink some good wine to which the Spanish Mariners who are always ready for their share of such a game when they can have it on free cost would not have failed We had also disposed our other men in order some to Guard the Chamber of the Poop where the Arms were where I was appointed with one of our men who had but one Leg having lost the other in the last Fight others to set Sail with the wind And the more to facilitate our design we weighed one Anchor leaving the other a pique But no so sooner had we made an end of weighing Anchor than presently came the Captain and the Pilote with the other Spanish Mariners on board The Pilot was wounded by a blow with a sword having on Shore fought a Spaniard of one of the other Ships Thier Arrival quite spoiled our design and the next day the wind being good we set Sail. As for the rest this I le of Madera A description of the Isle and City of Madera one of the Canaries or fortunate of the Ancients may have about Fourty Leagues in compass and hath two Cities of which the principal is also called Madera with two Fortresses in one of which and the strongest there are Castilian Soulders and in the other Portuguese The City is seated in a Valley and at the foot of a Mountain from whence comes so much water and sometimes in such abundance that very often it causes inundations which do much damage carrying away Bridges Houses Churches and other edifices The City is about as big as St. Denis but very populous having a great number of slaves who work upon the sugar without the City and about all the rest of the Island stand here and there May-houses of pleasure The soil is very plentiful in all sorts of excellent fruits and especially in Wines The Air there is very sweet and temperate and the pleasantest place in the World to live in And 't is no wonder if the Ancients esteemed this country to be the Elisian fields and as an earthly Paradice Amongst the rest the Earth there Sugar-canes produces a great quantity of Sugar-canes very spungie which they of the country cut and bruise in a Mill then putting it into the Press and the Liquor squeesed out is put to the fire where 't is boiled over and over in vessels like those which the Dyers use so that all the moisture may be wholly consumed and so having refined it they clap it into Sugar-loaves Earthen-moulds where it is formed into Sugar-loaves as 't is brought us The substance or husk that remains is a redish and blackish sugar which they call Meleche that is to say black I saw there the French Consul Named Jean de Chux who had married the Niece of Don Christoval de More Vice Roy of Portugal He is very rich and curteous and did me and my companions a great deal of favour There are always a great many Factors as French English Dutch and others who are to Load the Ships that trade there They make there a great quantity of excellent sweet meats that are carried from thence as Marmelades quidnies Candid Lemmon and several other curious Pastes But to return again to our departure we were not gotten Thirty Leagues from the I le when we were overtaken with such a great tempest that we were forced to return back to Madera which was the Twenty fifth of January 1602. and did not go out again till the Ninth of February and made such hast that we Arrived at St. Lucar de Baramede in Spain where being come our Captain was presently made Prisoner in the Real des Galleres saying for these Reasons that in some of the former Voyages he had sold Corn and Arms to the Moors of Barbary at Cap-blane upon which they brought informations with the deposition of the Moors The Adelandate not being willing to give Credit to the Moors Let go our Captain with his Ship but our Fish was all spoiled which was a great Loss to us We went from thence to Lisbon to sell it where only we sold part of it but the Visitor of health being come on board our Ship and finding it bad commanded us to sell no more of it upon great penalty so that we were forced to cast the rest into the Sea About this time our Captain found Vâ—yâ—ges to Mazagâ—n an opportunity to Fraight his Ship to go to Mazagan in Afrique to carry Corn and biscquet to the Portugal Souldiers who are there in Garison to make war in Barbary With this Lading we parted from Lisbon the Twenty third of April the next day after Easter and that in all diligence to go succour these Poor people who were ready to die with hunger There had been before several Ships sent with Victuals but had been taken by the Pirates Being Arrived there we fired a Cannon to give them notice to send us a Pilot to come nearer they answered us with another shot and sent the said Pilot we approached as near as we possibly could and cast Anchor about three or four Leagues from Mazagan with that a great number of boats came on board to unlade us It was a great pity to see these poor people Great hunger of the Spaniard how they were starved and if these Victuals had not come so seasonably as they did I believe they had been either dead or otherways had been forced to have yielded themselves slaves to the Barbarous-moors I could not hinder the children nor the great ones themselves from boring holes in the sacks where the biscquet were that they might eat or rather allay their hunger I did my utmost endeavour to keep them away tho' I was very sorry to see them so faint and look so dreadfully with hunger My Captain had given me the charge of the biscquet for to return him the same weight that he had delivered to me at Lisbon This being all unladed and put into the
Magazines for that purpose I saw the Gentlemen and Cavalliers coming to look every one for his weight of Biscuit and measure of Corn which is ordinarily allowed them by the King of Spain One of these Cavalliers received and lodged me in his House for there is no Inn nor resting place for Strangers I ordered the Business so that our Captain and Master were lodged there also causing Beds to be prepared for them to lie in As for me I received a thousand Courtesies from this Cavallier whom I cured of an Humour he had in his Eyes which he finding remov'd knew not how to treat me For in this place was neither Physician nor Apothecary but only one Surgeon who was very well skâ—ll'd in the Latin Tongue but wanted the knowledge of Medicines and Experience The Corâ—igidor or Judge of this place invited me one day to Dine with this Surgeon who discoursed very readily in Latin yet for all that he could not give Ease to a Patient that he had The most part of the People of the City came to ask for me at my Lodging to give them Physick and made me great Offers But I had not leisure to give Satisfaction to all forasmuch as we were to return in a short time as we did not long after As for the rest this City of Mazagan Mazagan described is very strong and the Walls so thick that six Cavalliers may walk abreast round about 'em The Houses there are very low and over-topped by the Walls There is a great many Cannon very large and long and line almost all the Wall but ill mounted There may be about forty Cannoniers with some 600 Soldiers viz. 200 Horse and 400 Foot the most part Married They make Incursions upon the Arabians whom they take Prisoners and drive away their Cattle They have hard by them a City called Azamor which makes hot War upon 〈…〉 them and not above two Leagues one from the other Every morning there goes out 40 Horse to discover what they can see and tarry out till noon In the afternoon 40 others go out who stay till night And there are about six of these Cavalliers whom they call Atalayes that is to say the Watch Atalayes who are far distant one from the other and keep Centinel every where and when they discover any thing they Post back and then the City Watch who sees them strikes 2 or 3 blows upon a Bell with that the others presently mount their Horses and run to the place of the signal For in every place where these Atalayes are there is a long Pole like a Mast and when they perceive any thing they with a little Cord heave their sign on high which is the signal to all those who Salley out of Mazagan When they have a mind to make an Incursion every one arms himself each of 'em carrying Forage for their Horses whom they give Corn to out of the Allowance and Pension which is sent them from Porâ—â—gâ—â— They Eat there abundance of Caricols Caricalâ— which are little Snails in Shells who â—â—â—d upon the Plants and there the Plants are of an exceeding force and virtue The Bees there make White Honey of Africa Honey and of an excellent Taste Their Hives are upon the Houses which after the African manner are covered with Sotees like to Cieling after the Moresque and one may easily go from one House to another This City of Mazagan is nothing Country of Mazagan else but a Fortress being about half a League in compass and is inhabited by none but Men of War who have every one their piece of Land round about the City where they Sow Corn as Barley Pease Beans and other Gâ—ains but very often the Moors Villanies of the Moors come and cut it up in the night time and spoil it The rest of the Country is Uncultivated The Moors do them a thousand Injuries even to Poisoning a Well which they have out of the City in a Garden by casting in Carrion with other filth and nastiness Within the City there is a full Cistern and upon the Ciloe's Festival-Day the watch is set It is very high and large and is capable of holding above 20000 Pipes of Water I was near being left to tarry in this City For the day before we were to set sail our Captain and the Master came ashore for me for I never budged from the City minding nothing else but the Cure of these People Now as I was gone to walk along by the Sea-side to gather some Sea Crist which is there in abundance being returned to the City to take my rest I was sent for in great haste to go see a Patient upon which our Captain went away and left me there all alone Knowing this I went presently towards the Sea-shore but he was already far enough from thence so I was forced to go back again to the City to wait till the next day In the mean time the Ship finding the Wind good set Sail and a Soldier who was a Centinel upon the Wall knowing that I was still in the City came presently to give me notice thereof At which all astonished I run presently to the Wall to see if it was true and being in great perplexity how to get out from thence â— went to the Captain of the Foot Soldiers to desire him to cause the Gaâ—e to be opened which he did and gave the Key to the Porter but I must stay till the Cavalliers were ready to go out This time seemed to me an Age. At last the Gate being opened I desired the Pilot-Moor to get me a Boat ready to carry me on Board our Ship and by good fortune I found some Soldiers who were going a Fishing one of whom had brought us from Portugal They did me that favour as to take me into their Boat Had we wanted that little Wind which was weak enough I had been forced to have tarried there for which I should not have been much perplexed had I but had my Cloaths my Medicines and my other Things but I had unhappily been in my Doublet without comfort or any other thing These Soldiers then did their utmost to overtake the Ship which was already got far off besides the Sea began to rise insomuch that these Men would not go any further telling that if the Wind should rise but never so little they should not be able to recover Land by their utmost Efforts but run the risque of their Lives Hereupon they left of Rowing and and held Council amongst themselves what was best to be done and having resolved to return they began again to handle their Oars upon which I being much vexed endeavour'd to urge them by Prayers and Promises that I would certainly Content them to return again towards the Ship and by strength of Oars we made our way so that we arrived there This was no small fortune for me considering in what trouble they live in there Besides
look for so far and besides there is but little to be found the Weather being so excessive hot for all their Matamores were dried up at that time Having a little refreshed our selves we went to rejoyn the Camp of the Almahalle and pitched our Tents near the River Tensif a little days Journey from Morocco We met a great Tensif â—iver many Arabians all on Horseback with their Launces who came about us to Salute their General Abdassis and others of their Friends who were in our Company I saw them again come with great Humility to Kiss the Hands of this their Chief Abdassis as before There we quenched our Thirst a little with this Water though it was very hot All the Land in these Countries is various some part good and others bad but for the most part Incultivated except that which is near some Water which they Till This River Tensif Breeds the most excellent Trouts of any in the World being very little and their Flesh red but of an excellent Taste and are mightily esteemed at Morocco The next morning going a little Morocco further we discovered Morocco in a great Campagne and this City seems to be situated near to Mount Atlas Mountain Atlas though it is above 7 Leagues distant VVe found by the way some Christians who came about us These are People that Traffick there and when they hear that any other Christians come with the Casile they are very glad and meet them by the way They bring with them a little Mule laden with Victuals Now the most part of the Christians of this Casile were English Prisoners with Irons upon their Feet and had been English Prisoners at Morocco Arrested at Saffy upon the account of an Alcayde named Abdelacinthe who was a Portuguese by Nation but a Renegado And for his Capacity and VVorth he had given him the Command of the Casile who returned from Morocco to Saffy with about 500 Soldiers under his Charge Now it happened by chance that Abdelacinthe and 〈…〉 to him Antonio de Soldaigne and Petro Caesar Portuguese Gentlemen had been both taken at Tangier in Africa and brought to Morocco and being there detained Captives 13 or 14 years until such time that they were Released by the Sieur de l' Isle a Physitian and at that time Agent there for King Henry the Great As these two Portugueses were returning in liberty this Alcayde Abdelacinthe had Negotiated with them to save himself in their Vessel wherein they were to Embark For this cause he went to Pitch his Almahalle towards the place where they come to take Water for the Ships near to the Cape of Cantin and being Cape of Cantin there one night he told his Men that he had caused a Moorish-Woman to be brought him with whom he desired to speak in Secret a good way off from the Camp and took none along with him but a Slave of his When he was near to the Sea-side he fired a Fuzee which was the signal that he had given to those of the Ship As soon as they heard this presently the People of Boat who were hid in the Bushes came to seize upon his Person and took him and carried him away in their Vessel by which means he saved himself The Slave fled to the Almahalle to give them notice of the taking of his Master at which they were mightily astonished and presently retired to Saffy But as the People of an English Boat at the same time were come on Shore for some things they had then occasion for they were Arrested and had Irons clapt upon their Feet as I saw them in the Castle of Saffy in very poor Equipage and were since carried to Morocco where the Merchants paid for them I don't know how many Ounces of Gold which was very near the Ransom of the Alcayde Abdalacinthe who had escap'd For those Kings will not loose any thing it being the Custom at Marocco that when a Slave runs away all the others assemble together and pay for him cautioning one another to go freely about Cautioning of the Slaves at Morocco the City without Irons which is meant of the poorer sort But as for the Rich they are put into the Sisane which is the Kings great Prison Sisane where they are well guarded as these two Portuguese Gentlemen vvere of vvhom I have already spoken To return to the Christians of Morocco who met us by the way they made us very good chear in a Garden along by a pleasant Water running some two Leagues from Morocco The Almahalle entered not into Arrival at Morocco Morocco this day but I left it where it was pitched and went to lie within the City in the House of the Christians paying for my entrance to the Talbe or Register This was the 2d of September 1606. As soon as I was arrived I failed not to go visit the Sieur de l'Isle Physitian who was lodged in a very fine House in the Juderie or Jews-Place The Sieur de l'Isle was a long time near to the Person of the King of Morocco in Quality of an Agent for our King Henry the Great And there had been since sent the Sieur Hubert the King's Physitian in the room of the Sieur de l'Isle Then both went into France but since that the said Sieur de l'Isle returned there again The Sieur Hubert lived about a year at Morocco practising Physick near the King and there following his principal design that is the Learning the Arabick Tongue so that since he rendered himself very expert therein as he hath made publick Profession thereof at Paris it self with great Solemnity He contented himself to depart out of this Country more laden with Science and Arabick Books than with Riches or any Commodities in which the Sieur de l'Isle was more happy than he Being then in the Juderie I was there conducted by a Jew who Cozened me of some Rials giving me falsly to understand that I was to pay some at the Door of this place where we were to enter and indeed he brought one who came to demand it and I was forced to Content them This Juderie or Jews-Place is above Juderie of Morocco a good League from the Douane where the Christians inhabit and near the King's Palace and is like a City by it self encompassed with good Walls having but one Gate guarded by the Moors It may be as big as Meaux There the Jews inhabit to the number of above 4000 and pay Tribute There is also some Christians And in this place also live the Agents and Ambassadors of strange Princes As for the rest of the Christians Trafficking and others they live in the Douane The City of Morocco is very great Desâ—â—iâ—tion of the City of Morocco and is much bigger than that at Paris which is called the City being wonderful populous containing above 400000 Inhabitants of all sorts of Religions and such Streets that for the great multitude
of People you can scarce oass along The most part of the ordinary Houses there are low little and but badly built with Earth and Lime But the Houses of the Alcaydes Lords and other Persons of Quality are great and high built with Stone environed with Walls with a high Tower in the middle to go take the fresh Air and a great many little Windows and Wickets The upper-parts of the Houses are flat and in Cotees The King 's Palace is built with little Stones like in-laid work and a great many Pillars of Marble Fountains and other Ornaments Their Mosques in great number well built with Marble and covered on the top with Lead There are a great many Halls or Vaults where the Merchants are and amongst others those which Sell the Alhec or Clothes like Brokers There is also several Colleges where they teach Law There is no River which passes by the City of Morocco but a great many Water-Ditches and Channels on Land to guide the Waters Water which come in abundance from the Mountains of Atlas partly from the Springs and partly from the melted and make this Water run here and there for their Gardens and Fountains They have also Wells and Cisterns They serve themselves dexterously with this Water to sprinkle their Gardens and Land Without the City about the Fields are a great number of Gardens with all sorts of Fruits and Vineyards with Water and a little Habitation to go recreate themselves They keep their Slaves at work All the Ground is very good and fertile and the Seed presently ripens The Mountains are on every side of the City except on that towards Saffy which is level There are the Mountains of Draz towards Lybia from whence comes the good Dates There are no Trees in the Fields except some Palms All the Trees are in the Gardens which are like unto Orchards As for Justice there is in Morocco Justice but one only Judge which they call Haquin who does ready Justice most commonly upon the place and hath continually his Citeres or Sergeants on Foot armed with Cudgels and Alfanges or Cimmeters and as occasion requires when it appears to be some notorious Offence they Behead also upon the very place for they who are offended cry Quoavac quovac c. to the help of the King in demanding Justice The King besides his ordinary Taxes which he sends to gather about the Country by his Guards and in the Mount Atlas by force of Arms he takes also upon all Merchandizes and Traffick the Tenth part The Women of Morocco are very beautiful and white the others who are of Quality and who stir not much abroad are more Tann'd and Sun-Burnt Every one hath 2 or 3 Wives and as many Concubines as they can keep and give to these Concubines so much by the day 2 or 3 Tomins to live upon each Tomin worth half a Rial The King hath four Wives and Concubines without number whom he keeps in his Seraglio or Palace and when he hath a mind to lie with any of them he causes them all to come before him stark Naked then he chooses her which pleases him best for that time The Moors have but sew Houshold Goods except some Alcatifs or Carpets upon which they Eat and Lie and have some Covers and sleep very low Very few have Couches and Linnen The Jews have such Beds as we use As for Victuals they are good and Victuals cheap and all whether Flesh Fish Fruits and other things to Eat are sold by weight and the Pound As for Flesh 't is Beef Mutton Poultry Venison which comes from the Mountains Some Fish as the excellenâ— Trouts which come from the Mountains of Atlas and from the River Tensif The Wines there are excellent and wonderful strong of which the Moors do not Drink but only the Grapes When a Moor makes himself drunk at any Jews or Christians who sell the Wine the Judge comes to Stave all the Vessels of Wine which are upon the Ground and besides lays an Avarice or fine upon the Master Vintner I will content my self to have said this little of several other things which I could describe concerning this City and Country of Morocco since they are so well known to every one only I will add to this that about 6 Leagues from Morocco near to Atlas is a City called Angoumet where are still to be seen a great Angoumet many ruinous Buildings of the Roman and Antique Letters * half worn out The City is little and nothing but Ruins The Moors say that there is Interred some Holy Personage of the Antients and for this Reason will not suffer the Christians to enter And besides in the Mountains of Atlas are certain People which they call Brebbes Brebbâ— who cut their Cheeks in the manner of a Cross and have a Language by themselves besides the Arabick and are very strong in these Mountains They pay Tribute to the King of Morocco who sends Forces to raise it There is some signs that these People should be the relicts of the antient Africans Inhabitants of the Country before the Arabian Saracens entered there and that they retired there for security being also in some manner Christians but since the society and imperiousness of the Arabians have corrupted them As for the rest when I arrived at Morocco the Affairs of the Country were thus That Muley-Boufairs the then King of Morocco one of the Sons of Maley-Hamet had War with his War betwixt the Cheâ—ifs of Morocco Brother Muley-Chec and Muley-Abdalla his Nephew and with Muley Zidan his other Brother For all these three Brothers made cruel War upon one another for the Kingdom of Morocco Now this Muley-Boufairs trusting wholly upon his Bassa-Joda lost all For Muley-Abdalla the Son of Muley-Chec King of Fez won a Battle of his Uncle Boufairs who sled in the night time to the Mountains of Atlas in the House of the Alcayde of Asur which is an exceeding strong Alcayde of Asur Castle But the Brebbes Robbed him and did him a great deal of mischief before he could get conveniently there After that he sent some of the Alcaydes his great Favourites to go fetch his Wives and his Daughter who brought along with them all his Treasure but they were Robb'd before day near to Angoumet in a place where they had sat down to take a little rest from the fatigue of the way The Brebbes had his Wives and Daughters at their pleasure and carried his Daughter to Muley-Abdalla because he desired her to Wife though she was his Cousin The Alcaydes or Conductors of these Women seeing themselves thus Rob'd and without any means to recover their loss did enter themselves into an Asoy or Mosque to the Alforme or Sanctuary of a Saint Marabou But Muley-Abdalla hearing of it sent to fetch them out with the Marabou also who earnestly desired Abdalla to give them their Lives which he promised to do But before they arrived
could catch about the Fields the strongest Killing and Massacring their Companions to have a share of them insomuch that they went to hunt after Men as some Savage Beasts and made Parties and Assemblies for this end During this horrible Famine the People of the Kingdoms round about being advertised of this extream necessity equipped a quantity of Vessels laden with Rice and other Victuals which they brought to Pegu and sold it there for what they pleased Amongst the rest there was a Merchant of Goa who arriving there with a Boat laden with Rice as he went Sad History of a Peguan Damsel from House to House to put off his Merchandize taking for payment Money Slaves or other things they could give him He happened upon a House where they had not wherewithall to Buy so much as a Measure of Rice and yet ready to Die with Rage and Hunger but they shewed this Merchant an exceeding Beautiful Woman whom her Brethren and Sisters had a mind to sell for a Slave for certain Measures of Rice the Merchant offered 2 Measures or Bushels and they would have 3 Remonstrating that if they killed this Girl the Flesh would last them and nourish them much longer than his Rice At last when they could not agree the Merchant went his way but no sooner was he gone than they killed this young Woman and cut her to pieces But the Merchant being not a little enamoured with this Maid and besides having Compassion of her mightily desired to save her life soon returned again to give them for her what they demanded But he was mightily astonished and sorry when they shewed him the young Woman in pieces telling him that not thinking he would return they did it to satisfie Hunger Such was the end of this Peguan Damsel and many others had the same Fate This Merchant-related this Tragedy to one of my Friends who passed from Portugal to the East-Indies in the Galion of Good-Jesus Now to return to those of Siam the cause why the King of Siam so barbarously uses the Portugals is that they Cruâ—lties of the Portugals use the same Treatment towards his Captive Subjects I have seen one of them at Goa above 90 years of Age a Joyner by Trade and Slave to a Portugal Gentleman to whom this poor Man was forced to render every day to the value of two Tangues whether he wrought or no and went thus to seek work about the City with his Tools My Host having one day called him to make something for him he told me all the Cruelties which was used against him For when he failed to pay his two Tangues his Master tied him like a Beast to a Stair-Case and gave him so many Blows with a Stick that he left him bruised and maimed and told me that he had been a Slave for above 40 years and had gained his Master good Money and yet he gave him to live upon but a measure of Rice raw every day without any other thing as they do to all the other Indians and sometimes two Baseruques which are some two Deniers to have some Caril to put Miseries of the Slaves amongst the Rice Thus you may see how these Slaves live withoâ—â— either Bread or any other Meat but 〈◊〉 boiled in Water insomuch that several die with Hunger and Work They lie upon the Ground on little Esteres or Matts made of Bull-rushes or the Bark of Trees The Portugals acquire much Reputation of making good Christians for having caused them to be Baptized they thus make them Die miserably Also the Japans knowing their Letchery and insatiable Avarice seem to have had some reason for their rising against them For these who are a subtile and wary People seeing that the design of the Portugals after having made them Christians was to dispossess them of their Lands and Goods by all Inventions therefore they did not care for their Amity much less did they desire 'em to Domination of the Portugals what Govern and this perhaps was one of the causes that they have Martyred so many Jesuits who were utterly innocent of all this For these Japans are mightily Jealous of their Wives and the Japans jealous Portugals had no other aim but to gain them especially those of the greatest with whom afterwards they do what they please which was the reason that moved these People to so much Cruelty I have found out in the Indies that the Whoredoms Ambition Avarice and Greediness of the Portugals has been one of the chiefest causes why the Indians become not Christians so easily This is the Reason why the People of the Portugal Churches who are in those parts mightily desire some French Dutch or Scots to be with them because these People lead a life less impure and scandalous which is the thing that most chiefly maintains and upholds Religion in that part of the World I Religion how and by what maintained have there known a Father Jesuit of the Country of Artois who lived in Salsete which is a little Isle not far from the main Land depending upon Goa he was there as Curate in a great Parrish and understood very well the Indian Tongue But afterward the Jesuites took him from thence to send him to Chaoul and I then saw the poor People of his Parish who mightily lamented that they had lost him some saying that they had rather have had their Arms cut off than have seen him taken away from them For they feared to have some Portugal who would Tyranize over them Thus ye may see what honest Men can do amongst the very Infidels who know how to discern the good from the bad As for the Father Jesuits they pass as far as China to make there some fruit Jesuits in China and fit their beards and hair after the Chinese manner and have their Cloaths made after the same fashion and Learn the Language to Accommodate themselves the more easily thereto but they dare not Preach the Gospel there but in private for fear of being put to Death I have been told at Goa that they have Converted great Numbers of them yea the very Mandarins themselves and Governors of Provinces They have a Church and Colledge at Macao an Isle and City of China and there they Learn the Chinese Language This is about 45 Leagues from Canton one of the greatest Cities in all China Canton a great City where they go through a great River much bigger than the Sene at Roar and is joyned with the Sea At the Port of Canton are continually above three or four thousand very large Boats and there a great Number of Birds of the River retire themselves 〈◊〉 which they leave in the Morning to go into the fields to seek their Living some on one side and some on the other then when the Night comes the Chinese sound a little horn which is heard at a great distance and then these Ducks return every one to his Boat where
to lie along upon the ground as the Portugals do to their Slaves and others then caused him to have three blows with a Cane slâ—t in two and then was let go Now when there arrives any Ships in the Ports of China to put off their Merchandise the Chineses coming for the custom take the length and the breadth of the Ship then after that they know within a very small matter what the Ship carries they pay accordingly without regarding what the Merchandize is As for the Chineses at their meat they eat like Gluttons and with an ill grace as I have often taken notice of in eating and drinking with them They have this custom never to touch the meat they eat but have two little spatules of hard wood very neatly made like forks which they hold betwixt their fingers they eat the flesh of Dogs which is a great dish amongst them they are also mightily used to Rice and little Bread As for their Houses they are very sumptuous and adorned with all sortâ— of pretty Devices They also are very Voluptuous as well Men as Women But to return to Goa I think it not much amiss to relate what a Portugal Gentleman told me of their Adventures which was that once going to War towards the South Sea with the Naval Army of Galiots which every year go out against the Malabars about the middle of September when their Winter is past and at the same time another Army goes out to the North Sea which is towards the Red Sea The Captains of the Army held Council together to go into a Habitation of the Gentiles along by the Coast near to Cochin to take away by force a Golden Pagod very great with other little ones who were in a certain Temple there But forasmuch as these Gentiles were Confederates with the Portugals they would not do this enterprise in the day-time but went one night to go ashore in this little City not far from the Sea where the Pagod was and setting foot on Land they set Fire in every place to fright these poor People and so went straight to the Pagod but the Fire passed so quickly that before they had Power to take the Idol it forced them to retire a little faster than they came and had no more time than only to snatch the Pendants and Rings from the Ears and Fingers of these poor Religious Women who were shut up Dancing all the night in their Pagod according to their Custom They were near 500 and seeing the Enemy entering they all assembled themselves together fastening their Legs and Arms one within another that 't was impossible for the Portugals to draw so much as one of them out But seeing the Fire at their Heels they only snatched away the Jewels from their Ears their Fingers they cruelly cut off to have the Rings and they made such a lamentable noise that 't was a great pity to hear them The Portugals flying away from the Iâ—ire left all these Religious young Women to be Burnt none being able to succour them and thus cruelly do the Portugals treat their best Friends and Confederates He who related to me this pitious History was named Don Louts Lobe who was of this enterprise and told me that this uproar moved him from his very Heart to Pity As for what concerns the City of Goa and the Country round about I pretend not here to make an exact and ample Discription yet I desire the Reader to take notice that that little which I speak is no more than what my Memory was able to furnish me withall for being upon the places I was so carefully watched as are all Strangers and especially the French that I could put nothing in Writing And this was the principal cause of my Imprisonment at Mosambique being accused of having made a Ruttier of the Sea which thing the Portugals fear the most not being willing that the French English or Hollanders should know any thing of those Countries I will say of Goa in a few words that it is a City excellent well scituated in an Island environed with the River some part level and other mountainous and may be about as big as Tours but Peopled with all Nations of India It is very well built in its Churches Hospitals Colleges publick Palaces and particular Houses of the Portugals and Natives which are of a reddish Bastard Marble and Free-Stone The other Houses of the Indians are like Cabins built with Earth and some Stone They have a great number of Gardens with Tanques or great Ponds to Bath in and many Fruit Trees The Country is good and fertile bearing Rice twice a year The Gentiles have liberty of their Religion but are not suffered to have any Pagod or Temple within the City but only in the main-land and out of the Isle When these Gentiles and Idolaters come to Die if they leave little Children the Jesuits are careful to take and bring them up and instruct them in the Faith and therefore for their Pains they seize upon their Lands Inheritances and Goods My Host a Christian Indian told me that he had been served after this manner without being a jot the better instructed As for the Men of War they are about 1500 or 2000 according as the Fleets arrive I saw a General-Muster of all the Inhabitants bearing Arms as well the Portugals as Natives and Indians and were sound to be about 4000 They did that being that time in fear of the Hollanders who scowered the Sea with a great number of Vessels I neither knew nor met with any Frenchman there but a good Father Jesuit named Estienne de la Croix Native of Roan of whom I received no small kindness I also saw 3 others who had escaped from the Maldives amongst whom was one named Francois Pirard a Briton who has Writ the History of his Voyages I was told that 3 Months before I arrived at Goa there went away from thence a French Gentleman named de Feynes ho caused himself to be called the Count of Monsert He was mighty skillful in the Art of Blowing up places which was the cause of his Misfortune for coming from Persia to Ormus as he was discoursing there that he knew the way of Blowing up a Fortress was it never so strong he was presently laid hold of as a Prisoner and carried to Goa where he was kept in Prison for fear he would observe the Fortresses and the first Fleet that returned to Portugal he was sent therein and kept Prisoner at Lisbon until Monsieur du Mayne went into Spain who obtain'd his Deliverance As for what concerns the Fertility of the Land of Goa and what it produces I remit you to what has been written by the Portugals only I say that the Fruit most necessary for the life of Man is that of the Palm This Tree is Spongy having little Strings or Veins environed with a Pellicule and draws its substance from the Sandy-Earth from which it also draws
Thus was the Ship lost and all the Merchandise that was in her and afterward we arrived at Rochelle the 3d of Sept. from thence I came to Paris the 23 of the same Month when our young King Lewis XIII whom God preserve and prosper was gone to be Crowned at Rheims I had heard no News of the unhappy accident happened in the Person of King Henry the Great my good Master untill we were in sight of Lisbon for then according to the custom there came a Caravel from the Port to see and know who we were who told us that sad History which I could scarcely believe but coming to Land it was too much confirmed to my Eternal regret and sorrow THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet INTO Syria and the Holy Land BOOK V. HAving return'd to Paris from so many long and troublesome Voyages after the Death of King Henry the Great whom I can never sufficiently lament and all other good French Men I had a desire to make a Religious Voyage into the Holy Land there to go pay like a good Christian so many Vows I had made to God for the innumerable Perils and Dangers from which it hath pleased him mercifully to preserve me so often In this Resolution I parted from Paris the 19th of July 1611. and took Coach to Marseilles where I arrived Embarkment at Marseilles the 14th Day of August and tarried there for some Days to wait for passage which at last I found in a Ship of Toulon called the St. Francis belonging to Ode Bergue and Vander Strate Merchants of Toulon and Marseilles There embarking the 8th of September we set sail and the 12th saw the Isle of Sardania which Sardania we left on the North-East and the 15th we saw the Coast of Barbary passing near the Isle of Guerite which Guerite Isle is a little Island not far from the main Land where the Robbers and Pyrates lurk as well Turks as Christians we had this Isle towards the South-West The 17th we passed along by Malta Malta then by Sicilia where we found a Sicilia Ship in the fashion of a Galiot who came directly towards us to know if they durst engage us but when they had perceived our Strength they tacked about taking their course towards Barbary seeking other Prey more easie to surprize The 21st we passed along by Candia Candia where there is a little Island called Agose Isle Agose which advances into the Sea with a Point towards the South Then the 27th we went to the Isle of Cyprus towards the City of Bafe Cyprus not far from the Coast and went to pass the Cape de Gate designing to go to Famagusta But having a sharp Gale and good for our Voyage we continued our course bearing towards Tripoly in Syria where we arriv'd Arrival at Tripoly the last Day of September the next Morning the 1sâ— of October I went on shore to lodge in the City in a Campo near the Juderie or Jews-Place Campo These Campo's are great Houses with large Courts and Fountains where Strangers retire themselves for shelter like Inns. These belong to some great Person who letts them out and he who is the Porter thereof whom they call Boabe receives the Money of the Passengers and gives it to the Master of whom he holds it upon Rent Having tarried some time at Tripoly Voyage to Mount Lebanon I had a mind to see Mount Lebanon and for this effect took a Turk with an Ass to carry our Victuals We left the City the 11th of November and went over very high Mountains and troublesome to pass and in the end arrived at the Lodging of a Chaldean Archbishop called Father George who received us after the best manner he could His House is right above Mount Lebanon his Church is under his Habitation and a Water-mill underneath his Church I saw a good Father a Chaldean Priest and Kinsman to this Archbishop who came from grinding his Corn as he shewed us by his Visage all white with Meal and seeing him in this case we knew him not to be of the Church until the next Morning which was Sunday when I saw him go with the Host in his Hand from thence to a Village there to sing Mass The Father George lived there with his Mother Sisters and Nieces making one and the same Family altogether He shewed me a Chapel above his House upon a little Rock right under Mount Lebanon and told methere was there a Hole out of which every Year upon the 1st Day of May only gushes an abundance of Water at such time as they sing Mass in the Chapel The Mountain is covered all over with Cyprus-Trees The Place is very agreeable but the Winter is there very troublesome because of the excessive Cold and great Snows which mightily afflicts these good Fathers so that they are constrained for that cause to pass the Winter near Tripoly and return there again in the Spring The next Morning after we had heard Mass we set forward towards the Place where the Cedars are about Cedars Three Leagues from thence where being come we had such a cold blast of Wind that my Turk blew his Fingers I order'd him to get upon a Cedar-Tree to break me off some Branches but he tarried there not long for the Cold soon made him to descend that he could not get me so much as I desir'd But I feared he would tumble down being half frozen and besides he had not eaten his Breakfast because of their Romadan Romadan or Fast in the which they fast till Evening not daring to eat any thing upon pain of Death except it be in private and those who observe not strictly their Law and when I saw him tremble in good earnest I presently made him come down fearing to lose him From thence we reassumed our way to return to Canibi which is a Place Canibi belonging to the Chaldean Patriarch and had very bad Weather of Rain so that we arrived there late in the Evening after having passed many little Habitations situate for the most part upon the side of inaccessible Rocks and are almost all Chaldean and Greek Christians with some few Moors amongst them We were there very well received and drank excellent Wine which grows in these Mountains The next Day having heard Mass we returned to Tripoli where I passed a very troublesome Winter because Inundations of the great Inundations of Water which came from the Mountains and so swelled a little River which runs through the middle of the City that it bore down part of the Houses with great loss of Merchandise and Water-mills which it carried quite away with the Stone-bridge This was the cause that Bread was there very scarce and dear that we had much adoe to get a little black Biscuit half spoiled which was sold me by weight and at what rate they pleased and that by halves and the People already
the next Morning went to Jafa tarrying there Jafa all that Day waiting for the next Morning we lay under an old Vault along by the Sea-side This was a great City and a good Port but now all in Ruines and there is but Three Towers to be seen entire and some little Houses There is here nothing to be found either to eat or drink and you must bring your Provision if you have a mind to eat The Morning being come the Atelas giving order for our embarking and having given us a Greek with a great Boat like a Patache we parted from thence the 1st Day of May and came to the City of Caesarea which is quite ruined Caesarea and went to cast Anchor near Caiphas in a Place where was formerly a Monastery We went on shore to look for some fresh Water and were refreshed by bathing our selves There was with us a Turkish Chiaux and a Janisary The next Morning leaving this Place we went and cast Anchor a little below Mount Carmel where Elias Mount Carmel made his Abode then passing along by St. John of Acre formerly Pâ—olemedes Acre a very pleasant City upon the Sea-side and where dwelt formerly the Knights of Malta then we anchored before the City of Tyre where some of us went on shore for Victuals and Tyre to see the Place where they say Sampson threw down the Temple upon the Philistines This Place is all desart and ruined and there is a great Number of Marble Pillars and amongst others one of a wonderful length and breadth very smooth and almost Seven Fathoms about and seems as if there were Three in one 't is broke at one end They say it is that which Sampson cast down but that is false for the Scripture tells us that this was at Gaza another City far from Tyre so that these Pillars must be of some other ancient Building We took some Refreshments in the House of a Greek who makes Brandy under an old Vault At Evening we returned to our Petache designing to set sail after Midnight As for the rest this City of Tyre or Sur is quite ruined inhabited only by some Moors and Greek Christians which live there in Vaults under the Ground There is to be seen a great Number of Marble Pillars which keep up the Walls being placed and layed cross one upon another to hinder the Sea from undermining the Walls This City was once of a vast Extent but at present is like a Desart Parting from this Place before Day we cast Anchor at Sydon or Sayette Sydon where we saw upon a little Hill the House of the Canaanite hard by the Sea-side We went on shore for some Refreshments and dined in the Ware-House of the Christians with the Consul of that Place who told me that some Days before came there a Ship Fortune of a Ship of Malta of Malta who had a Protection from M. Joseph Facardin Governor of Sydon and that this Vessel returning into the Sea to look for some Prize had met with a Turkish Caramousin whom she took and boarded her with some Knights and Soldiers who leaving their Admiral some Leagues from thence came to Sydon to take in some Refreshments and by chance the Brother of him who had lost the Ship was there at that time who when he saw his Brother's Ship he cried out to the Moors of the City How was it possible that they would suffer those Dogs the Christian Robbers for so they call us to come thus within their very Port after having taken their Goods Whereupon those of the City immediately ran to Arms and leaping into Boats fell upon this Caramousin and fought them on all sides They within defended themselves valiantly as long as their Powder lasted but the most part of them being killed or wounded the rest were forced to yield and be carried into the City where they had their Heads chopped off being 16 in all A few Days afterwards the Admiral sent his Boat to Sydon to enquire after his Men but there was Seven or Eight of them arrested and made Prisoners while I was there The Consul told me moreover That M. Joseph Facardin had promised him to let them escape in the Night-time without the Knowledge of the People who were exasperated against them This Emir Joseph commonly called the Ermine of Sydon or Emir de Sayede is very courteous and kind to the Christians and is said to be descended from those ancient Kings of Jerusalem who were of the Blood of the Princes of France and this is he who is said to be since come into Tuscany to the great Duke with an Intention to become Christian and to propose Means to the Christian Princes how to chase the Turks from those Parts Leaving Sydon we went to lie at Baruth which is a Place very pleasant Baruth and delectable having two little Fortresses upon the Sea-side They say that this Baruth is the Place where St. George slew the Dragon and delivered the Maid as the Pourtrayes shew which are made thereupon The next Day the 6th of May we arrived at Tripoly where I continued Tripoly for some Days employing my self in gathering certain curious Plants bearing excellent and odoriferous Flowers of which I gathered a great quantity upon Mount Lebanus and about the City of Tripoly all which I lay'd safe up to carry to the King as at my Arrival at Paris they were planted in the Garden of the Lovre which is before His Majesty's Chamber whom I shewed several excellent Flowers The Bassa of Tripoly is a Man very Proud and Cruel and I was told there That once he being amorous of a very beautiful young Woman of one of the best Houses in the City and seeing that he could not bring his Desires to pass by any sort of Artifice he resolved to use Violence and watching his opportunity when she went to the Stoves with her Mother as it was their Custom where presently going he took this poor young Barbarous Cruelty of a Bassa Woman by force and having-had his Will of her he took his Gangear or Knife made in the form of a Croisant and ript her open quite from the Privy-Parts up to the Neck Behold how these Barbarians give Satisfaction to their desires how horrible and wicked sover they be I was also told how that this Bassa at the Arrival of a certain French Ship called the Dauphin belonging to the Sieur de Moisset had a mind to go on board her where having been treated with all the Complaisance imaginable at his coming out from thence one of his Favourites reproached him for eating with the Christians at which he was in such a Fury that he cast his Gangear at him with which he so wounded him that had not the Surgeon immediately dressed him he had died thereof upon the Place They relate several other cruel Acts and Violences of this Man which are very ordinary and common to all these
very fertile in Corn Wines Oil and all sorts of Fruit and produces also those excellent Horses call'd Gennets When I was there I was told how that the Judge of that Place whom the King of Spain had established there not having a mind to do a piece of Injustice as the Gentlemen and Hidalgo's of the City desired him they had invited him to a Supper with an Intention to put an Affront upon him but he doubting of their Ill-will would not go to them At which they being vexed made his Image and burnt it in a Fire before his own Door in a Bravado and in the mean time he not daring to stir out of his House which was as it were besieged by them Upon which his Wife went strait to Court to make her Complaint to the King and to demand Justice of him which was granted her For the King of Spain commanded these insolent Hidalgo's or Gentlemen to come before him and ordered their Process to be drawn immediately and condemned them every one to have their Heads chopp'd off But when they said for Excuse that they were drunk when they put this Affront upon the Judge they were pardon'd and had his Grace except Two Brothers who never would confess themselves to be drunk when they play'd this Prank and were so glorious that they chose rather to have their Heads cut off than to confess the same as the rest had done And hereupon came the Proverb That Los Hidalgos di Xerez Son Borrachos The Gentlemen of Xerez are Drunkards After having tarried some Days at Xerez I returned to the Port St. Mary expecting to find an occasion for my Embarkment But being there I could not by my utmost Endeavour procure License to pass to the Indies in regard of the rigorous Injunction not to suffer any Strangers to go to the Indies but especially the French yet if I had had Money to give perhaps I might have had this Permission but I had not so much as a Maravedis nor Hopes to meet with any there besides that I found my self somewhat indispos'd All this with the bad Entertainment which I receiv'd amongst these People so Uncharitable and Discourteous gave me cause to desire my Return and thought to embark my self in some Aulonnoâ—â— Ships to return with them to France and indeed I gathered together some rare Plants which I put into a Vessel with some other things of which I never since could hear any notice but that they had cast all into the Sea In the mean time I wondred why this Ship did not set sail but she was hindred by the Decrease of the Moon for the Sea does so follow the course of this changing Planet that it is taken notice that the Ebbing and Flowing is in the heighth when the Moon is in Conjunction This Ship of Aulonne which I waited for was called the Gift of God and belonged to one Peter Bled In the mean time the Vessel departed without taking me in and I remain'd there in no small trouble and misery and had no other Recourse but to put my self into a Boat which I found going to Calix not far from thence and nevertheless we had no small Trouble in our Passage because of the contrary Winds We at last went on shoar in a desart Place about a League from Calix to which Place I went on foot along by the shore I there found Acquaintance but I could not stay there long because the City was filled with Soldiers belonging to the Army of Dom Lous de Fajardo Admiral of the Spanish Fleet who was just returned from Mamorre which he had taken from the Moors and had there found a great Number of Pyrates of whom some he had hanged and put the rest to the Oar the rest were partly sunk and some burnt themselves in despair rather than thoy would yield This Ciâ—y of Calix or Cadis was Calix the Gades so famous in ancient times Gadis where 't is said that Hâ—rcules after having overcome the Gerions planted his memorable Pillars as being the end and utmost Bounds of Navigation at that time but since in these last Ages the Pâ—rtugals and Spaniards have happily found the Plus Vltra which has given them Passage at their Pleasure through all the Orient and Occident These Gad tanâ—an Pillars were upon the Two Mountains Abyla and Calpe placed upon the Extremities of the Straights one in Africa and the other in Europe side now Ceuta and Algezira or else the true Ceuta Pillars compos'd of Tin Gold and Algezira Silver mixed together which were by Hercules put into the Temple of the Parques and afterwards in the Temple Parques dedicated to him in the City of Gades This Straight has since been called Gibraltar or Gabel-Tarif which signifiâ—s Mount of Tarif in Memory of that Renowned Captain who commanded in Chief in the Sarazâ—n War which began the Conquest of Spain The City of Gades in ancient times was not very Populous and is at this Day a little City celebrated for the Salt-pits and Almadraves or the Fishing for the Tonny This was formerly an Isle distant above 700 Paces from the main Land but at present there is only a little Causey which separates it therefrom Seeing then that I could not conveniently tarry at Calix I went into the Fields towards an old ruined Tower which they call the Tower of Hercules not far distant from the Straights I found there some rare Plants which I loaded my self withal and saw this Tower into which I entred though not without a great deal of trouble because the Sea beats against it and besides there came such a furious Wave that I thought it would have carried me away This Building is so well wrought and appears so entire that it seems not to have been 20 Years since it was built Now as I was amongst these Ruines I saw a great Wolf approach towards me which I thought at first to be an Ass but after having known what it was I kept my self still and let it pass along by me without stirring a Foot for I saw that it was looking for Food Not far from these Ruines I found a Temple where I enter'd and it looked like an Azoy or Mosque after the Turkish manner yet there is an Altar set up where sometimes they say Mass As I was returning towards Calix I found the Sea mightily risen so that I was a little wet in repassing the same and had I stayed but a little longer I had had a bad Nights Lodging there At last I passed over and found in my way a good old Man who discoursed a great while with me about all these Antiquities and how that in those Days there was more Men morally Good than now though they and from thence I came to a Place named Chipione where having gotten some Money by certain Cures I returned to San Lucar and from thence to Sevillia where I was forced to continue for some time and joined
there is a Lake and a River which pass cross it with many excellent Fountains Amongst others is to be seen that of St. Paul near to a Mosque This City is divided into two by a great Church-yard of some 400 Paces Damascus described after the Moorish manner The whole City may be as big as Orleance It is of great Trade and amongst others there is a great Street where there is nothing but Merchandice of Drugs and Spices This City is encompassed with Walls but not round about and has a very strong Castle and great number of Gardens in the adjacent Parts There is a Bassa or Governour and a multitude of Greek Christians there but no French It is about Three Days Journey from the Sea and Five from Jerusalem Formerly it was the greatest Commerce of the Indies Persia Chaldea Armenia and other Places We left Damascus the 16th of April and went to Sassa where was a Cafar Cafars or Toll or Toll But my Turk to save me from paying any thing and thinking to have the half of that which belonged to the Cafar put upon my Turbant which was of the Greek Colour another of white after the Turkish manner and passed thus without being taken notice of by the Cafars or else they were asleep in their Houses for we saw none coming toward us as we passed over the Bridge which is there So that we escaped and went from thence through a very bad way full of great Stones where I endured no small pain scarce being able to draw my self out from amongst them because of the Water and Mire which are together and this bad way continued almost the whole Day But as we were a good way in these Boggs and Quagmires we saw coming towards us a Turkish Cavalier with a Harquebuse at his Saddle-bow and Adventure of a Turk passing near to me he demanded An ta Frangi if I was a Christian and having answered him Yes he returned in a Fury towards my Turk who was before me and held his Sword at his Throat to kill him had not a poor Arabian who was at work hard by run to his succour praying this Cavalier to be pacified and from thence he came to give me a Blow with his Sword but I gat my self out of his way and he spurring his Horse upon me cryed Rou which is to say Return but my Turk so ordered the Matter that he was content to take a Piece of Money and the Arabian also mightily desired him After that my Turk took away my white Turbant shewing him that I had one of the right Colour underneath and that this which he had given me was to keep me from the Sun This with the Money contented him and preserved us from the Danger of being soundly beaten and also of returning back to Sassa where the Cafars and * Soubachins Sub-Bassa's would not have pardoned us I then threw away his white Cap contenting my self with my own not having a mind ever to rely any more upon what he told me We were in continual fear lest these Cafars should come after us upon the Information of this Cavalier but they did not yet my Turk was under such a mortal Apprehension that they would that he turned about ever and anon and pricked on the Ass as much as he could We went to lie at Conetra in a Campo where we payed a Cafar Conetra The Chelubin which is to say the Lord of the Place who understood a little of the Gemique Tongue which is corrupted Italian spake for me to the Cafars that they might use me kindly and take no more of me than he ordered them He came with other Cavaliers of his Company to discourse with me where I was with my Ass in a Court and having perceived my Kit or Gittern amongst my things he desired me mightily to play upon it which I willingly did and presented him with a curious great Pomgranate which had been given me by one of the Bassa's of Damascus's Gentlemen He was very well content therewith and thought himself well payed for the Kindness he had done me with the Cafars These Cafars Cafars or Toll-gatherers are the Farmers and Toll-gatherers of the Turk and are always Three together one for the Grand Signior another for the Soldiers of the Country and the third for the Soubachin or Governor of the Place I lay there in a Stable of Mules and Camels upon a little Grass which I had bought having no better Lodging that Night than my Ass We parted from thence about three Hours before Day and found the Company which was going after the Chec-Marabou who parted from Damascus Chec Marabou two Days before us whom we overtook along by the Sea Tiberiades This Chec-Marabou goes out every Year from Damascus to go in Devotion to Salomon's Temple in Jerusalem and those who go with him which are they of the Country pay nothing they are sometimes 5 or 6000. I was very glad to find this Company for fear that my Turk should play me some Roguish Trick though the Jew Ibrahim had made him put his Hand upon mine promising upon the Law of Mahâ—met to guard and protect me as himself and to bring me back again to Damascus or at least a Letter from me to this Jew But yet I trusted not so much to that as to make me neglect being upon my guard knowing well the Humour of this cuâ—sed and unfaithful Race of People who will kill a Man for a small matter and especially the Turks Covetous and Wicked Christians whom they greatly hate and serve them only for their own Profit of whâ—ch they are as greedy as Hell can make ' em We passed then a great Number of Woods and at length came to Jacob's Bâ—idge where there was a Cafar through which passes a very swift River which is that of Jordan and which Jordan runs from thence into the Sea Tiberiades not far distant from thence These Cafars were Arabs and my Turk thinking not to pay so much to save something for himself endeavour'd to perswade them that I was a Jew and that I was going to Zaphet where their Synagogue Zaphet is but these Arabs who were very cunning and subtle saw by my Looks that I was not like a Jew and an old Man all scorch'd and burnt with the Sun asked me Hady Frangi which is as much as to say if I was a Christian My Turk and another of our Company earnestly entreated them not to take much of me and that I was a poor miserable Wretch and made me pass before with the others they tarrying there to pay but for all that they payed much more or at least made me believe so than I had done But it behoved me to pass that way whether I would or not When you have passed the Bridge you see in this River a little Island where there is an ancient Building which they say to be Jacob's House