for excellent Cream being returned to Blois you may take notice of the Castle as also of the Garden which is now Seges ubi Troja the keeper of it is Dr. Brumer my very good acquantance and sometimes one of the Herbarists to the late Duke of Orleans as were also Monsr Morison and Monsr Marchand upon any of whose accounts or yet upon mine I am confident You will be very welcom to him I believe You may as yet see some Plants in the Garden from thence walk towards the Capucins or the mount and you will have a delicat prospect both up down the river from thence walk towards the Alleys which you will possibly find to be the finest in length and breadth and being well planted on either side that you have hitherto seen You may chuse whither You will see Vendosme or not it being a place not verie considerable except for the Holy Teaâ—e which is preserved in the Cathedrall Church with much veneration and which people go to see out of devotion the toun is famous for makeing of Gloves which are accounted the best of that countrey upon the returne from that place You may see the Fountain of Orchaise of old Horrcum Caesaris for some where not far from thence the Roman legion was said to be quartered I take the fountain to be nothing else but a rivulet or litle burn falling over the Top of a soft Rock into which by process of time it hath cut in a considerable way thro' the whole deepth of it and being grown together upon the Top it seems now to spring out of the Rock over against that cross a meadow you must take notice of a Cave or Hole digged in the side of a litle hill in which there is an Aromatick kind of Earth not much inferiour as is believed to the Terra Sigillatae of Lemnos the common people call the place La cave de la terre Sigille And here I must put you in mind that in this same meadow I have very often seen very large green Lizards which because it is a beautifull creature and not found with us I must intreat you where ever you find of them to cause preserve 1 or 2 to add to my Tradescants I know not which will be the best way of preserving them whither by skinning them or drying the flesh but I suppose the best way will be especially if the skin be any thing strong to cause skin them preserving the head feet and taile and then stop the Skin with Flax. There are likewise severall other Birds in France which are not common with us which I must earnestly intreat you to do the same by as for example the Pie verte or Green Pyet c. 3ly from Blois you go to Amboise in half a day by water the boat will give you libertie to see the Castle in the Chapell whereof will be shown You hanging a pair of Hornes they say of a Hart the largest and biggest if they be true that ever was seen In the court of the Castle there is likewise to be seen a Rib and one of the Back-Bones of the same Animal You are brought out of the Castle by a Toure whose descent is so large and so easie being without Steps that a Coach may drive from the Bottome to the Top thereof From thence You go Tours all Night where 4ly In my time the best Lodging was A la St. Marthe the place is commended for the Sweetness of it's Situation the delicacie of it's Fields and Gardens and many other Particulars It will be worth Your while to see the Manufactories of Silk especially the way of working Tissenes and Brocarts which You will see of diverse Colours and some of Gold and Silver The invention and way of making Tabbies which I forbear to descrive because You will abundantly discover it by sight You must be at the pains to fetch a walk out of town a litle way to see the Maille which in any time was the longest and in the best order of any in France and at the same time you may go the length of the Minims Convent because the first instituter of their Order St. Francois de paul lyes Buried in the Church in a marble Coffine as will be shown You which People visit with great Veneration if you will be at the pains to pass the River there is an ascent to the Capucins whence you may discover the whole City and a great part of the Countrey about which for it's Beauty and Fertility is called the Gardin of France and certainly deserves that Name better than any Place upon the whole River of Loir There is likewayes not far from Tours a Place which they call la cave Gutiere From the Top of which there drops a Liquor which Congeals into a substance almost as hard as a stone not much unlike that you sent me from Hamiltoun 5ly You may go from Tours to Saumure a town famous for it's Protestant University of which we have two very honest countrey-men that are members Monsr Doule and Monsr Gray You may take the pains to see Nostre damo d' Ardeliers a Place of great devotion if you please you may see the Treasurie which is Rich and as you go and come you may observe the great Trade of that Suburbs to be making of Beads or Chaplets I beseech you forget not to bring us some that are made of young Oranges If you please you may see the Castle At Saumure you must hire Horses to make a litle tour of three days and first you must go to Doue where there is to be seen an ancient Amphitheatre cut out of a Rock as it is said by the Romans There are likewise verie many great quarries of free stone and the Workmen often find in cleaving of the stones some litle peices of a finer and harder substance by farr than the rest which from the shape they have They comonly call Langues de Serpents The little Boys for a small matter will sell you abundance of them which I pray forget not to buy If not for your own at least for your friends curiositie From thence you must go to Thouars a most delicate House belonging to the Duke of Tremoville it is situat upon a Rock and the greatest part of the office houses cut out of the Solid Rock The next Morning you go to Waren a verie prettie House but not much worth the pains of seeing were it not in Your way to Richlieu where you are to spend the rest of that day That you may have the more time to view the Toun and House which I think so well worthie your seeing That for it's sake a Journey from Paris that length were not ill bestowed I shall say no more of of it that I may not deprive you of the Gusto of being surprized with the Beautie of it Amongst other things be pleased to take notice of two Marble statues that stand over the Gate at the upper
service I must likeways intreat you to be at the pains to enquire for a Doctor of Physick of the Religion that lives here whose name I have forgotten but you will know him by this that he hath written in French Something against Doctor Willes de Febribus which I remember Sir David Inglish did once send me to Paris And therefore he may Probably know the Man The Reason I desire You to speak with him is That you may learn from himself what he hath Published upon this or any other Subject and whatsoever they be I must intreat You earnestly to buy them for me for I have a very great Honour for the Mans Parts tho' I know not his Person and I had the evil Luck to lend that Book which Sir David Inglish sent me to a Doctor at Paris that did never render it me again Remember to see in the Town 1st Piliers tutilarrs which are the Ruins of an Ancient Roman Temple 2ly The Ruins of an Amphitheatre without the Town of Roman Antiquity likeways 3ly The Cheasteau Trompette in which there is a Garison keept by the King It was pulled down by the Citizens in the Time of their last Rebellion but since re-built much better and stronger 4ly The Port which if you happen to see in the Time of Vintage will be well furnished with Ships from all Places and it may be from Scotland 5ly That peece of Ground without the Town which they call Grave which brings forth the best Wine about Bourdeaux and which for the most part is sold within the Town at as great a Rate as ordinary French Wine gives with us And therefore being there is no great quantity of it and that it would not turn the Merchants to Accompt to send it here you may easily guesse how much Graves Wine We Drink in Scotland altho' Our People are pleased to Flatter themselves that all their Clarets are such The rest I leave to others to inform you of I must only tell you You will meet with as good Fruits here as in any place of France Des Treffices in Latine Tuberae Terrae they are found under the Ground by the Hogs who use to smell them before they come at them and by the noise and gests they make give notice to their keeper who presently puts them by and Digs the Trefice for himself They are in great esteeme being Boyled and pared use to be eaten by themselves with Pepper and Oyle or else cut down with other things en Ragoust There are likeways here a kind of small Birds but exceeding fatt which they call Ortolans which are much prized for great Delicacies From Bourdeaux you go to Rochelle In the way you pass by these Places first Blay Ville et City The City stands on a Hight and Commands the River It was at this Place that of old the English Ships were Obliged to liver their Canon which were permitted the Scots as a Priviledge to keep a Board as they passed to Bourdeaux 2ly Xaintes or Saintes the Capital Town of Xaintonge It stands upon the River Charante here are some Rests of Roman antiquity as of an Amphitheatre c. But especially of an Arch upon the Bridge over the Charante on which you will read this inscription Caesari nep D. Iulij Pontifici A. There is also an inscription on the reverse which I remember not You will see likeways here a Steeple the Stairs whereof that lead to the Top are on the outside 3ly Brouage about half a Days Journey from Saintes a little but one of the most regularly fortified Towns in all France in which there is a continuall Garison keept as a Guard for the Salt of which vast quantities is made here by the heat of the Sun every Year in this manner They let in the Sea water by a 〈◊〉 cut purposely in the ground into severall ponds cut out likeways of purpose of a certain deepness they fill them in the Summer time and then stop the entries that no more water come in when the Sun hath coâ—â—â—cted it enough they gather it together iâ—â—eaps and carry it to places appointed for it The Town stands upon a little River which iâ— navigable because the Sea flowes a good way above it the Salt marshes about the Town are little less than four Leagues about render the Town by so much the more strong You must be sure to arrive there at a good Hour in the day for at Sun-setting the Gates are shut and none whatsoever can enter You must Salute the Governour or in his absence the Chiefâ—Offâ—cer and desire Libertie of him to view the Town which he will readily grant you and appoint a Souldier to wait upon you from the Walls you will discover the Marshes about the Town and then he will bring you to the Arsenal and there you will see their Magazine of Aiâ—s and then having given something to the Souldier to drink you may thank the Governour take leave of him This is all that is to be seen in this place except you make account to see the Isle of Olâ—rone which lyes without the mouth of the little River about a League or two in the Sea From Brouage you have seven Leagues to the Rochell upon the Way to which you will have occasion to see a great many Sea-Plants such as Kali Kali Spinosum Salicornia Cakeile Sâ—rapionis Papaver corniculatum luteum Eringium Marinum Crithmum with many others The Rochel is much more famous for what it was than for what it is It was the strongest hold the Protestants had in France but after the taking of the Town by Lewes the 13th the Walls thereof were quite demolished so that scarcely the vestiges thereof remaine the Harbour is considerable for it enters within the midle of the Town At â—resent it hath a considerable trafique 〈◊〉 Salt white Wines c. You must be at the pains to see the Isle of Re about a League from the Town but not above a quarter of a League from the Land As you go from the Rochel to the place where you are to take Boat to cross over they will show you the Ruins of that Digue which Cardinal Richlieu caused make by sinking of Barks loaden with Stones to hinder all relief for the Town by Sea and it was observeable that the very day after the Town surrendered the Digue was broke down by Storm which if it had done but three days sooner it may be justly questioned whether the Town had ever been taken especially seeing the English Fleet was ryding before the Isle of Re. In the Isle of Re there is a Citadale near to which you will be put a Shore upon the Island but it is not usual to permit Strangers to enter into it At the east end of the Island there is a little Town called St Martines in which there are many Dutch Families because of the great trafique the Dutch hath with this place for Salt and white-Wines The Island
be Accountable to him The carrier will part from hence such a Day being the Day of and will arrive at Lions the Day thereafter the Bundell contains no Merchant Goods being only Books c. for my own Privat use and therefore not Customable I rest SIR Yours c. THe other Letter of Voiture is an Obligation under the carriers hand to You which you must send by the Post to your correspondent at Lions The Form of it ought to be as follows I Vnder Subscribed Carrier of Turin acknowledge to have received from the Day of at Turin a Bundell Marked Weighing addressed to Merchant of Lions to whom I promise to deliver it in good condition at Lions with the help of God or to his Order he paying me at the Rate of per Cent. therefore In witness whereof I have subscribed their presents with my hand at Turin the Day of Anno I Have been the more particular in these things because altho' they may seem to be triffles to those that are conversant in such matters yet a small mistake may be the occasion of a great Miscarriage I shall now return to put You in mind of some other particulars and 1. That in this Place Oisters are a very great Delicat there being but one person that has Priviledge to sell them for which he payes a considerable Sum to the great Duke I know not well from whence they are brought but I am sure it is from a considerable Distance They are keept in the Town-Ditch on the East side of the Town which is full of salt water because it hath communion with the Sea the keeper hath a little House hard by and according to the number Bargained for takes them alive very fat out of the Ditch sells them at the Rate of a Pistole the Hundred They are many times put into the Ditch little and keept untill they be big enough they taste very well and are by far the best in Italy 2. To the East-ward of the Town about a Mile or little more there is an Hill called Monte Nero upon which there is good harbarizing You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide with you to the Place From Ligorn you have 15 Miles of Smooth and Plain way to Pisa. It is an Ancient City sometimes a common-wealth by it self and then both Rich and populous But since it was Reduced under the command of the great Duke of Tuscany it is neither of the two the far greater part of the Inhabitants after the Town was Reduced chusing rather to abandon their Native Country than their Liberty or at least preferring a voluntar Subjection abroad to a necessitated Slavery at home The City is large and Beautifull divided as it were in two by the River Arno and again conjoyned by a beautifull Bridge of white Marble The Air of this Place in Winter is judged to be more Temperate than that at Florence therefore the great Duke uses to pass the Winter here There are many things considerable in this Town as 1st The great Church which is a Stately Fabrick and well adorned within as also the Batistaria whereof the Doores as also of the great Church are all covered with Massive Brass cast into delicat Figures 2ly The crooked Steeple which leanes to one side very far from the perpendicular some people alledge it was purposely so built but I am more apt to beleeve that the ground hath miss-given on the one side by little and little or rather insensibly which may be some part of the Reason why it hath hung together so long without falling to which the excellencie of the Cement and Workman-ship hath contributed very much my opinion to one that narrowly observes will not appear to be unreasonable for the outside is of so many Rows of small Pillars going round about and the lower-most Row on that side that it leanes to is more than half hid in the ground where as those of the other are wholy to be seen which I suppose could not have happened otherways than as I have said 3ly The Buriall Place which is the most stately I ever saw being a long quadrangle well walled and galleried about in the midle whereof are very many Monuments of great antiquity of many of the ancient noble Families of Pisa. They are most of them of white Marble in shape like a Coffine wherein the Body of the Dead persons was laid Some of them are carved in one Fashion and some of them in another and some of them into excellent Figures 4ly The Dukes Palace 5ly The Physical Garden together with the Rarities that are keept in a Gallery belonging to the Garden where you will see a very great Collection of Natural Curiosities The Garden uses to have very rare exotick Plants but in regard you can have no access to it except by the recommendation of the Physitian that is Professor of Botany for the time therefore I think it will be worth your while to make your address to him for a Libertie first to see the Garden and Gallery secondly to get from the Gardener or himself the Seeds of such as you have a mind to and a Peece of the Plant for drying if you think fitting you must not be negligent here for this is one of the best Gardens in Italy in my opinion preferable to that of Padua especially for exotick Plants The University for the whole Estate of Tuscany is keep'd here and if you please you may see the Schooles for all Professions and particularly that for the Lawes where the most renowned Bartholus did teach Amongst the Booksellers you may find something to accommodat you because it is an University Town and I shall tell you here because I do not remember to have it done as yet that generally speaking all sort of Books in Italy are cheaper than in any other place where I have been I pray You remember to get a Couple of the Catalogues of the Garden there of the last Edition From Pisa You have but a small half days Journey of very pleasant Way to Luca which is a Delicat little Town a Republick by it self and having but a very small Territory belonging to it it is well and regularly fortified with a dry Ditch which is keept very cleane and in good Order and allways Green the Republick is governed by a Prince or Chief Magistrat whom they choose of their own Town and change him every two Month So soon as any one is chosen he must leave his own House and Friends and retire himself to the Publick Palace where he is assisted by some other of the Nobles cannot come out untill his Government be finished The Humour of the people is Chearfull and very Civil and contrary to the Custome of all Italy Men and Women converse freely amongst themselves or with Strangers They use Balls Danceing much after the French Fashion The Religious people use to distill Spirits and Essences whereof you may
provide what Quantitie you please both good and good cheap I wish you might help a Friend to some of Orange-Flowers and Myrtles The religious Women likeways use to make very prettie Things and particularly I remember they use to sell Stomagers of quilted Silk which most people use to wear in the Winter-time of one Fashion or another From Luca if you please you may go to Pisloia and so to Florence or otherways returne to Pisa and from thence either by Coach or Horse to Florene If the Weather be not too hot it is better to go on Horse-back in regard of the prospect of the Countrie which cannot be had in a Coach Florence is a new Town but one of the most beautifull in all Italy and therefore called Fiorenâ— a la Bella it is situated upon the River Arno which divides it in two sevâ—rall places over which stands four fair Bridges The City is Counted at least six miles in Compass The Beautie of it consistes in the Stateliness of the Buildings the great number of Palaces the neateness and cleannesse of the Streets occasioned by the largeness and smoothnes of the Stones with which it is paved the many large Places Fountains Statues Churches Towers Convents Gardens Of all which it hath very many of the best in Italy There is scarce any thing in this City which is not very well worthie to be taken notice of but particularly 1. The Dukes two Palaces the Old and the New In the new the great Duke himself keeps his Court. It is a â—ost magnificent Structure oâ— the Tâ—scan Order of Architecture but not finished as yet The Garden belonging thereto is very well furnished with Rare Plants and Flowers of which the Catalogue is Printed of which I desire You to bring alongs a Couple of Copies It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener for so you will get what Seeds you please The old Palace stands in the great Place of the City in the midle of which Place there is a Stately Colossus of Brass of Cosmus great Duke of Florence a Horse back by the Model whereof that of Henry the great upon the new Bridge of Paris was made Near to the Entrie into the Palace there are severall other Noble Statues of Marble within the Palace it self is that so much famed over the World Gallerie which is composed of many Roomes containing great Varietie of the choisest Curiosities as Staâ—ues Busta's Baserelieues Paintings Drawings Prints Cabinets Jewels Cameo's Intaillia's with all sorts of Anticailles with an infinite number of Master-peeces of latter times Amongst other things there is a Chamber or two full of all sorts of Armes amongst which those of Charles the Great and Roland with severall Swords of Henry the great also a great Number of Cymiters some whereof have their Scabbards set with Rubies Emeralds and other precious Stones There is an ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head Painted by Michael Angelo bona rota I remember to have observed some ancient Casaques whose weight I am confident no Head could sustain unless so adjusted to the rest of the Armour and that to the Sadle that the Horse must have carried all You must endeavour to get a Writen Inventure of the severall Curiosities in the Gallerie for without that it is not possible to remember every particular Within this Palace the great Duke uses to keep the most excellent Artisans he can meet with of all Trades to whom he gives considerable Salaries and Priviledges whom you will do well to see but especially the Stone-Cutters of whose Art I intreat you to take particular notice and what Instruments they use and learne at least as much of it as may serve to polish Stones Amongst other Curiosities of this Trade You may see a New way of Mosaick Work wherein the figure is compleated most delicatly both as to the parts and Colours thereof by the Natural Colours of the severall peeces of Stones assembled together and which is strange all the lights and shadows requisite in Painting is herein observed So that they can imitate Nature allmost as fully this way as in Painting it self This way differs from the old Mosaick in that the particular Peeces that compose it are of different Figures according as the colours require for example a Cherrie because it is all of one Colour therefore it may be represented by a Red stone of a round Figure in one Peece but the Stalk of it must be of an other different figure But in the old way all the peeces were Quadrangular whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be represented and of this kind of Mosaick you will see a most excellent Peece in St. Peters Church at Rome representing St. Michael the Arch-Angel treading upon the Devil In this Palace likeways the great Duke keeps a Chymical Laboratorie called la Funderia wherein are made very many notable preparations with great Faithfullness especially Spirits and Essences which may be bought here at reasonable Rates and without fear of being cheated as to the goodnes of the things 2ly Severall Churches and Convents particularly the Dome the out-side whereof is the most beautifull in Europe being all crusted with Black White and Red Marble fitâ—y placed together in regular figures The Church within is Paved with black and white Marble and Richly adorned with Chapels and Altars The Cupola is very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top of it which is able to contain a great many Persons does not appear from the Ground to be bigger than a good Foot-Bal Near to the Dome stands Jota's Towre one of the most admirable Peeces of Architecture in the World being a square Steeple without any spite on the Top of it all crusted with black white and red Marble in most regular figures from the top to the bottom near to it stands the round Chapel of St. John delicately payed with Marble and adorned with statues with a Rich Vase adorned with precious Stones wherein the Children are Baptised The Doors of the Chapel are of Brass all in Figures of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable Workmanship in this Chapel is the Sepulchre of Jota that renown'd Painter and Architect upon whom there are some excellent Latin verses there ingraven which I have lost but â—oâ—mend to you to take a Copie thereof In the Church of St. Spirito there is an Altar haâ—cost above a Hundred Thousand Crowns which were left by a Florentin Gentleman for that effect In the Church de Sancta Crâ—ce I hâ—ve â—orgot whether iâ— belongs to the 〈◊〉 or Jaâ—obiâ—â— Michael Angâ—â—o bona rota iâ— interred and it is said at his own desire that he might lye within the View of Jota's Towre which he did so much admire in his lifetime Upon his Tome there are three most delicate Statues the one represents Painting the second Sculpture the third Architecture in which three Arts he was so great a Master St. Laurence Church was magnificently
the Campania on every side of the High-way You will meet with many Ruins of Ancient Burial-Places for several Miles from the City Velitre is an Ancient City of the Volsci much famed also for the Parents of Octavius Augustus who were Originaly of this Place Upon the Way from Veletri to Sezza upon the Hill-side under Sarninetta there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the Tres Tabernaâ— of which St. Luke speaks in the 28. Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles Sezza formerly Setia was much commended for its Wine whence that of Juvenal Tunc illa time cum pocula sume Gemmata lato Setinum ardebit in auro Piperno in Latin Privernum and the Inhabitants Privernati near to this Place Iris Florentina grows abundantly Terracina was Anciently called Auxur in the Language of the Volsci of whom this was the Metropolis Strabo sayeth that it was called Trachina quasi Aspera from the Rockiness of the Hill upon which it is Placed altho' the Town be Ancient it is not very considerable it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastick Estate towards Naples Passengers use to Dine here at a pittiful Inn without the Town where there is no manner of Furniture but VVood to make Fire it not being secure for any Body to live in it because of the Turks that often Land here and take what they can meet with VVhen the People that keep the House see any Strangers Arrive instantly they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town The Sea comes very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town stands and on that side which is towards Naples the Rock is precipitious and betwixt it and the Sea leaves but a very narrow and strait Passage which one Man may Guarde against a Hundred Fondi is the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of Naples here you must give notice to the Officers appointed for that purpose of your intended Journey for Naples and cause registrat your Name together with the marks of your Horse that he may be the better known when you return to be the same that you brought along with you from Rome or otherways you will not miss to be challenged upon your return and stopt untill you can produce a Certificat that he is the very same you brought into the Kingdom with you There being a General Prohibition the observance whereof is Strictly lookt to against carrieing Horses or Mares out of the Kingdom into any foreign part least the breede of them which is esteemed amongst the best in Europe should become common to other Nations Notwithstanding of this severity sometimes with credit and sometimes with a little Money a Man may obtain permission for the Transporting of one or more either Horses or Mares Mola is one of the most pleasant places in rhe World being close upon the Sea side and but a little way from Gaieta to which you may go either by Sea or Land It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City Formiae where Cicero had his Villa Formiana The place abounds with many plants and great Varietie of the choisest Fruits especially the Agrumi such as Citrons Oranges Limons c of all sorts If ye please to go to Gaieta it is worth the while It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea from the main-Land about three miles and by that means becomes peninsule and formeth on the side towards Rome betwixt it and Terracina that Sinus Gaitanus about twelve miles in length The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly There is a great Rock hard by which is rent from Top to Bottom which they say happened when the Saviour of the World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way betwixt it and Mola Trajetto is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of Minturnae stood where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost intire and the remains of a great Aqueduct It was amongst the Marishes near to Minturnae that C. Marius did hide himself when he fled from his Enemies whence that of Juvenal Exilium carcer Minturnarumque Paludes Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis You must pass at this place the River Garigliano called Liâ—is Anciently Capua is a new City standing upon the side of the River Vulturnus and some two miles from it the Ruins of the Old famous Capua which in the Old Romans Time was esteemed one of the most delicious Places in the VVorld There are yet Vestiges of the Gates of the City of a Theatre of a great many sumptuous Temples Cisternes under gronnd and a great many other things that evidently show it to have been a magnificent City The Country from Vulturnus to Naples is called the Campania Felice and is indeed the fertilest soyle and bautifullest Country that my Eyes ever beheld Aversa is a new City extructed out of the Ruins of Atella It is distant 8 Miles from Naples and famed for a kind of Wine called Asprinâ— That way which leades from Rome to Naples was Anciently called Via Appia from Appius Claudius the Censor who caused Pave this way from Rome just to Capua It begins at the Port now called St. Sebastian but Anciently Porta Capena from the Capenati a people of Latium to which that way did lead The Via Appia is of that breadth that one Chariot may easily pass another The Emperour Trajan did renew it and continue the Pavement even to Brindici drying the marishes plaining the Hills and filling up the Valleyes By this way Anciently did pass the greatest part of the Triumphs whence it was called Regina viarum whence that of Papinius Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum Altho' this way be Ruined in many places yet it is wonderfull to see in how great perfection a great deal of it continues Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length and Breadth so well paved with Quadrangular Stones that even to this Day altho' it be of common frequent Passage continueth as intire as if it were newly done Upon both sides of this way as far as Capua there are a great many Ancient Sepulchres many whereof are altogether ruined and some almost intire as yet in one of these Sepulchres in the Reign of Alexander VI. as Volateranus tells the Body of a Delicat young VVoman was found altogether intire in a Marble Chist She was of incomparable beautie having her long Flaxen Hair drawn together upon her Head with a Circle of Gold The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a burning Lamp at the Feet thereof which the Air coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre did instantly extinguish The Body as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place had lyen there thirteen Hundred Years Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of Tulliola the dearly Beloved Daughter of Cicero It was presented in
1. The Churches as namely that of S. Sophia that of Justino which is all Pavemented with white red Marble there is an Abbacy joyning to it of the Order of St. Benedict the Reformation of which Order did begin first here It was Anciently the Temple of Concord The place before the Church is very large spacious They say ten Thousand Men might be drawn up within it The Church of St. Antonia de Lisbon is notably designed and hath many Rich things belonging to it many Relique's but amongst others the most considerable is the Body of St. Antonia commonly called of Padua because he Died and was inâ—erred here There is great a Devotion payed to this Sainct and a great concourse dayly to the place as well of the Inhabitants of the Town as of Pilgrims that come from other places They use to kiss the Marble-Stone that covers his Sepulchre and they say it smels of Musk. 2ly The palace of Justice which is most stately The Stairs are all of Marble covered with Lead without the support of any Pillar The great Hall is 256 foot in length and 86 foot in breadth and very well painted and at the end of it that Statue of Titus Livius whose Tomb is likeways to be seen in the Town 3ly The Schooles which is a very stately Fabrick being a 4 square court where you will see a great many of the Statues or Busta's Names Arms of so many Consuls that have been of the several Nations that compose the Vniversity the Scholars here have large Priviledges and many times abuse them and become very insolent insomuch that they have been sometimes known to threaten the Podesta himself or Governour of the Town they have likeways a beastly custome of carrieing Arms in the Night insomuch that it is never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark for many are this way unhappity Murthered without any Offence given or taken but only by wantoness or rather Wickedness of the Scholars 4ly The Physical Garden which is exceedingly fine not so much for the number as rareness of the Plants You may easily make your addrefs to the Professor that keeps the Garden who in my time was the Excellentissimus Signeur Tore but the Gardener will be sufficient to do your turn for in giving him a small peece of Mony you will command both Seeds Plants and all that he hath We have a very worthie Gentleman of our Countrie called Doctor Cadenhead in my time he was Publick Professor of Logick nel Bo which is the Publick Schooles He is a most courteous and obliging Gentleman and will be ready to do you all the kindness's Imaginable 5ly You may see the Hospitals for sick Folk and many other things which for Brevities sake I omit only I intreat you be at the paines to Visit the Book-sellers Shops and if there be any new thing in Physick since the 62 or 63 Year of God I intreat you to bring them along with you for me especialy if there be any thing of Rhodius who hath promised us his commentaâ—s upon Cornelius Celsus long ago If you please you may make a little Journey to the Euganean Hils which are not far from Pâ—dua There is very good Herborsing upon them It will be worth your while likeways to see Abbano a Village 3. or 4 Miles distant from Padua famous for its Natural Baths At the end of the Village there is a little rising or know upon the Top of which there are a great many Springs of hot Water some where of are scalding hot The Water is convoyed by little Conduits to several Houses about where Baths are keept for sick People but the greater part of it is convoyed the other way by a trough where at the distance of a Musket shot it moves a Milne The water it self is whitish having a white slimy substance in it which it deposes every where where it runs and which in process of time becomes as hard as a Stone in so much that the Miln-Wheel and all the Wood that is toucht by it becomes crusted as it were with Marble and if it be not broken of timeously it stops the Motion of the Wheel just as Iâ—eicles use to do with us The Country about Padua is very Plain and exceedingly Fertile insomuch that they use to say Bâ—lognia la grassa ma Padua la passa yet the Wine is not good but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at Venice for ordinarie drink When you haâ—â— past some time at Padua and satisfied your self of all that is to be seen and known there it will be time to set â—orward for Milan From Padua to Verona  Milâ—s Vicenza 17 Montebello 12 Scaldere 10 Veronâ— 12 In going from Padua to Vicenza you will do well to turne a little out of 〈◊〉 way to see a place called Gusâ—â—so 〈◊〉 is a House of Pleasure belonging to a â—â—râ—ticular Person where besides many â—â—riosities of Gardens c. there is pâ—â—ticular wayes of conveying the Win◠〈◊〉 the Caves below to the upper 〈◊〉 which makes a Delicat Fresco in the greatest heats of Summer It stands at the foot of a very great Mountain under which are the vastest and biggest Caves I ever saw but seem not to be Natural but rather Quarries out of which the greatest part of the Stone that Vicenza has been built with has been taken In one place of these Caves there is a little Well made by the Water that drops from the Top of the Cave which petrifies any Wood Straw c. that lyeth any time in it and yet the Water keeps clear it self without congealing Near to the City of Vicenza upon your left hand you wil see a delicat Peece of Architecture made by the famous Architect Vinogli which is likeways designed in his Book It is only a House of Pleasure and stands upon a considerable hight from the City discovering all the Country round about Vicenza is a good large Town having many fine Churches and Palaces with a large place for Tilting and other Exercises there is likeways in it a Noble Theatre built by Vinogly the Country about is exceedingly Fertile and abounds with all sort of good Fruit and is therefore called the Garden of Venice Verona is an easie days Journey from Vicenza It is an Ancient City large and well built having many stately Palaces Churches c. an old Amphitheatre yet more intire than any other in Italy The Town is divided in two by the River Adice it is wel Fortified having 13 Royal Bastions and three Castles the two parts of the Town are conjoyned by 4 large Stone Bridges There is excellent Herborizing upon the Hils near to the City but especially upon the Monte baldo which is about 20 Miles distant from this City and which is described at great length by Joannes Pona whose Book I suppose you have seen The Palace del Conte Justi is worthie the seeing together with the Gardens and
known to be such by the Cross found upon their Sepulchers with this Inscription Pro CHRISTO You must take good lights and a good guide to conduct You for some have mistaken their Way and never found an outgate The Second I need not describe it There are severall things about Rome worthie the taking notice of as 1. Ponte mola a Bridge standing upon the Tevere in Latine Anio some two miles from the Town before it joynes with the Tyber You go to it by the Port del Populo It is considerable for it's Antiquity It was at this Bridge that Constantine the great vanquished Maxentius the Tyrant There having appeared to him before the Battle in the Firmament a red Cross with these words in hoc Signo vinces the story is Painted in fresco in the Palace of the vatican by a great Master where You may see it and You will seldome miss Painters in the Roome a Copying of it 2. The City of Tivali in Latin Tibur by the way You will pass a little River The Sulphureous and noysome smell whereof You will perceive at a Miles distance it is of a whitish Colour as if Meall were mingled with it there is a white slymie Sulphureous substance adhering to the sydes and bottom of it which is soft whilest it is under Water but being once dryed becomes very hard they use to make counterfeit comfits which they call comfits of Tivoli and use to Cheat People with them for sports sake The River runs into the Tiverone and spoils the Water thereof and in my Opinion does much harme the Water of the Tyber it self because the Tiverone joyns with it before it come at the City of Rome The Town is verie ancient having several marks of great Antiquity as Sybilla's Temple c. close by the Town the River Teveronâ— falling from a great hight over a Rock makes that famous Cascata so much talked of It makes a horrid noise and continues frothy and working for a good way below the fall and hath made a Million of meanders and strange figures in the Rock where it falls A little below the fall there is a Bridge over it of a considerable hight above the Water where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet you which arises from the fall of the Water after the River is fallen Several parts of it are conveyed by aqueducts into the Town for severall uses as namely one part for the Brass works where You may observe that the Waeer blowes the fire not by moving the Bellowes which is common but by affording the Wind an other part of it is carried to the Villa d' Este where there is a curious Palace and most curious Gardens with all sorts of Ingenious Water Works and other ornaments as statues c belonging to Gardens Amongst other things there are several Artificial Birds that sing their natural Notes by the help of the Water There is an Organ that plays sweetly moved only by the Water which also furnisheth it Wind. The Girandola is considerable where the water rises in a gross Body very High and the ayr being Artificially mixed therewith makes a noice that exactly imitats Thunder Tivoli is some eighteen or twentie Miles distant from Rome You may easily go from Rome and see all things considerable there returne the same day to Rome unless You please rather to goe to Frescati which is a most delicious litle Toun about twelve Miles distant from Rome standing upon the side of a Hill from whence in clear weather You may easily discover Rome The Place is beautifi'd with many delicat Villa's about it amongst which the most considerable are first the Belvidere belonging now to the Principe Pamphilio the water works whereof are esteemed the best in Italy There is a Centaur that Winds a Horne by the help of the Water with that Loudness that it can be heard at six or seven Miles distance There is a low Room which they call the Apollo at the end of which Apollo sits upon the Top of an artificial Parnassus with the nine Muses about him he with his Harp and they with their severall Instruments of Musick which play by the help of the Water which is convoyed under ground and is not seen within the Room About the middle of the Room there is a little hole out of which the Wind occasioned by the motion of the Water underneath comeing furth hath so much strength as to support a wooden Ball of the bigness of a Tennes ball at half a ell's distance and more from the floor without ever letting it fall to the ground 2ly At half a miles distance from Frescati are the Ruins of Cicero's Tusculanum and Lucullo's country House as also a curious villa called monte Dragone where the House is well adorned with Paintings c. and the Gardens with water works 3ly If You desire not to Returne to Rome first You may goe directly from hence to Castello gondolfo which is about â—ive miles distant from Frescati and fourteen from Rome It is a most delicious Countrey House of the Popes To which he uses to retire some Moneths in the Summer for the good Air 's sake it hes the Prospect of a most delicat lake encompased with Hills that are all shadowed with Trees where amongst other pleasures you will not want that of Herbarizing Being returned to Rome you may make another little Journey with your convenience to Ostia which is some twelve miles distant from Rome doun the River Tyber it was of old the great Harbour for all the Ships and Gallies that belonged City and Empyre cutt out as it seems by Art but now thro' long neglect filled up and useless Having seen all and dyned you may returne before night to Rome it will be fit you be at the pains to make another Journey to Caprarolla one of the noblest Palaces in Italy built by the famous Architect Vignoli by order of Cardinal Alexander Farnese It belonges to the Duke of Parma It is distant from Rome Miles It is in figure pentagone having five very High and equal faces with a Court perfectly round in the middle as likewise are the Galleries and Corredor's about it Morover there is almost as much lodging below ground as above The Hangings Statues Pictures as also the Gardens Fountains and other embellishments doe well sute the magnificence of the Palace Having seen Rome and the Places about it It will be fit to make the Voyage of Naples The Months of April and October are most convenient for this Journey the heat being too great in Summer and the Snow and Raine troublesome in Winter From Rome to Naples  Miles Marinâ— 12 Velitre 08. Sezza 15 Biperno 04 Terrazina 10. Portella 03. Fondi 05. Itri 05. Mola 04. Tragetto 10. Pass the River Garrigliano Sessa 07. Carionole 04. Capua 12. Auersa 07. Naples 08.  114. As You go out at the Port St. Giouaâ—ni all along
Vast big Town seated in the middle of the Sea everie House whereof at one side or another is touched by the Water and the nearest Land being 4 or 5 Miles distance It was built at first upon the little Island of Rialto in the Year 421 perhaps later by the Inhabitants of the firm Land that were chaced from their own homes by Attila King of the Huns forced to make choice of this place for their safety since that time they have built upon 70 or 71 Isles more which are joyned together by upwards of 450 Bridges The Town is about 8 Miles in compass There are but few Streets built on both sides except some open places The most part of the Streets have a Canale or Ditch in the middle by which the Gondols pass which is a great commoditie for there is scarce a House in the Town but one may be carried this way either close to it or within a few steps of it The Canals are different in breadth some more some less large the narrowest is broad enough for one Gondole to go by another It is remarkable that the Water Ebbs and Flowes here 4 or 5 foot which is not observed in the Adriatick farther down towards Naples nor in any other Port of the Mediterranian Sea The Gondals are believed to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number they are small tight Boats much cleaner finer than Oares upon the Thames having a prettie Tilt over the seat where the Passingers sit will be able to accommodat 5 or 6 Persons It is usual for Gentlemen or Persons of Qualitie to have their own Gondols and those Richer than the ordinary some are rowed by one some by two and it is somewhat extraordinary that the Rower does not sit within the Boat but stands upon one side of it and lookes the same way that he rows At the turning of any Corner after they come within such a distance of it they are obliged to cry to give notice to the Gondols on the otherside whom they cannot see and he that cryes first hath this advantage that he turnes close by the corner and the others are obliged to give him way and take it larger And I assure you it is no small wonder to me that there being so many corners to turâ—e and so continuall and frequent intercourse of Gondols going some the one way and some the other and in the dark as well in the Day there should be so few Accidents of running one another down especiallie considering with what swiftness thay go The largest Canale called Canale grande is about 13 or 14 hundred paces in length fourtie in breadth and divides the Town as it were in two The Bridge of the Rivo alto or as it is commonlie pronounced Rialto is one of the most magnificent Structures in the Citie it consists but of one Arch yet is said to have cost above 250 thousand Duckets at the one end of the Bridge there are three large Streets divided by 2 rowes of Houses which are so many Merchant shops This serves for the Exchange where the Merchants meet about Noon to do their affairs There are so manie things considerable in this Place that it is difficult to comprehend them in this short Narration and therefore I shall onlie name a few of them and leaue the rest to your particular inquirie which will not be hard for you to make when you are upon the place Be pleased then first to take notice among the Churches of that of St Mark which properlie is onlie the Dukes Chapel belonging to the Palace of St. Mark whose Bodie being brought from Alexandria is preserved here The Church has 24 Chanoines belonging to it under one Head called Primicero He is commonlie chosen by the Doge and wears the Miter and other Ornaments of a Bishop uses to give his Benediction to the People as Bishops do The inside of the Church is of Marble of diverse sorts and all verie fine with above 40 Marble Pillars It is paved with Porphire Serpentine c. in Mosaick Work Upon the Top of the great Altar there is a Globe enriched with a great number of Pearles and other Jewels of price The Roof of the Church consists of 5 Cupula's covered with lead It hath 5 Doors of Brass and over the great entrie on the outside there stands four Delicat Horses equal in bigness to the Natural of Brass Guilded which at first were placed upon the Triumphal Arch of Nero after he subdued the Parths but were afterward carried to Constantinople when the Seat of the Empire was removed from Rome and at last brought hither by the Venetians when they took Constantinople 2ly That which is most worthie of the seeing it may be in all the World is the Treasure of St. Mark where amongst other things you will see 12 Royal Crowns 12 Breast Plates of Gold ful of Pearles and Jewels taken as they say at Constantinople And the Tradition is that they were the Ornaments of the 12 Maids of Honour that waited upon St. Helena Mother to Constantine the Emperour several Rubies weighing 8 Ounces a Peece and a Saphir that weighs ten Ounces two Unicorns Horns severall Vessels of Precious Stones as Agat Jâ—spir one of Emerauld which a King of Persia presented the Senat with One of one single Turkis another capable to hold a Scots Quart of one single Granat The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the Duke is Crowned is Garnished with Jewels of inestimable price There is a vast deal of other Riches which I cannot particularly remember There is likewaâ—s to be seen the Picture of the blessed Virgin done by St Luke The Acts of the Apostles writen in golden Letters by the hand of St John Chrysostome Patriarch of Conâ—tantinople It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple from whence you will have a delicat Prospect of the whole City and Neighbouring Islands of a part of Lumbardie of the severall Mouths of the River Po The Hills of â—tria the Sea about 3ly The Palace of St Mark whereof the Arches Pillars Halls and Chambers are all most Statelie especialy the great Halls which are Painted by the greatest Masters of their time for the fetter understanding of which it will be fitt that you get a Printed Inventorie â—f all the particular Ornaments of this Palace 4ly The Piazza of St Marco which is one of the Largest and finest that can be 〈◊〉 in any Town in Italy being comâ—â—â—sed with most Stately and regular Buildings with large Arches and Porticâ—es to walk in in the time of Heat or Rain with all sorts of Merchandise and Trades This Place is the most diverticeing in all Venice for here you may see People of many Nations with different Habits At that end of that place which lookes to the Sea there stands two Marble Pillars each of them of them one Peece of a great hight and bigness at a reasonable Distance one
each of them of that bigness that scarcelie can three Men fathom them It is believed that they stand not under 10000 Crowns a peece All the rest of the parts of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee only it appears to me to be somewhat darker than need were Amongst many other things that are considerable in this Church is the Body of St. Charles Boromeus in a Chappel under Ground It hath a Lamp burning before it and you look down through an Iron Tirles from the Church to see it You may see the Head and Feet but the rest of the Bodie is covered with his pontificall Habit. There is a rich Treasure belonging to the Church where you will see amongst other things a Silver statue of the same St. Charles in his Pontifical Habit with many precious Stones of great Value upon the Myter thereof It was presented by the Jewellers and Goldsmiths of Millan In the Church of St. Ambrose you may see a Pillar in the middle of the Church upon which stands the Brazen Serpent that Moses elevated in the Wilderness You may likeways see two statelie Tombs one of the Emperour Luis and the other of Pepin King of Italy both Sons of Charles the Great Here also you may see the Chapel where St. Augustine was Baptized In the Church of St. Satyre upon the great Altar there is a Picture of the blessed Virgin with the Babe Jesus in her Armes of which they tell a wonderfull Story that it being placed upon the Church-Yard-Wall a certain Gamester called Massario Vigonzonio being mad to have lost his Money struck the little Jesus with a poynard whereupon immediately there gusht out abundance of Blood after which it was placed upon the great Altar where it is yet to be seen 2ly The Palaces amongst the rest that of the Governour 3ly The Hospitals which are said to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long at the expence of the Publick That which is called the great Hospital entertaines alone more than 4000 and so it may for it has three Score ten Thousand Crowns of Yearlie revenue The Lazaretto is a kind of Hospital without the Walls It is a large Square court about a Mile in Compass not unlike the form of the Carthusians Houses that are divided into so many little appartments The chief Design use of it is in the time of the Plague at other times it stands emptie only some few persons that have the keeping of it remaine there 4ly The places in the Town chiefly the Exchange where the Merchants meet there you will see the statue of St Augustin and the place where he taught Rhetorick before his conversion to the Christian Faith 5ly St. Ambrose's Bibliotheck where not only these Books that belonged to St. Ambrose himself but many other Books that have been presented since are kept 6ly Septalie's Galerie This Manfredo Septali is Son to that famous Physician Ludovicus Septalius who hath written many things learnedly in Philosophie and Medicine He is at present one of the Canons of the great Church And one of the greatest Virtuosi in Italy His Studie of Books consists of 2 or 3 Roomes His Galerie of Curiosities of three Roomes The Curiosities are both Natural and Artificial of so great a Number and Varietie that I must not insist upon particulars but only refer you to the description thereof in Latine by Paulus Maria Tersagus the Book is in 40. Dertono 1664 and bears the name of Musaeum Septalianum He hath also an other Room or two full of working Tooles â—ome for turning others for Grinding of optick Glasses of all sorts and Fashion and here you will see a great Variety of Musical Instruments Most part of the Booksellers live near to the Exchange but their Magasins are in severall other places of the Town you must be carefull to see them all You will undoubtedly find some to please on which perhaps you will not readily fall else where You will meet with many Curiosities in this place especiallie of Cristal brought hither from the Alps and a Thousand Conceits most delicatly wrought of Straw I have heard of peeces of Cristal with severall shapes represented within them naturally as of Trees Flees c. others with a drop of water within them that one might perceive to move but is was not my Fortune to light on any such 7ly The Castle of Milan is one of the greatest Forts in Italy with six Royal Bastions a large Fossey full of running water and within it a second Wall of strength The Place within will admit of 6000 Men to be drawn up It has above 200 peece of Cannon all sorts of Ammunition and 600 Spaniards in Garison It has a Water Miln within it for Grinding of Corn which is moved by the running Water that fills the Ditches At a Miles distance from the Town there is a Privat Gentlemans House where the Echo is so excellent that it repeats above 40 times which you may try ether by speaking Loud or otherways with a Trumpet but the surest way is with Pistol Shot for then you may distinctly tell to 40 one after another The Carthusians have a stately Monastery at 10 Miles distance from Millan wihin five Miles of Pavia which hath 500000 Crowns of Yearly revenue The Monks use to entertain Strangers for one Night The Church is of a most Delicat Fabrick and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to Pavia Anciently Ticinum and afterward called Pavia The Town is very strong and stands upon the Tesin It is the Chief Vniversity of the Dutchie of Millan but because I was not in it my self I cannot say much of it only I have heard that in the great place of the City stands the Brazen Statue of the Emperour Constantine or as some think of Antoninus very much esteemed If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your seeing because of the Vniversity for for any thing I know there may be both good Books and a Physical Garden there From Millan to Turin you have about 73 Miles From Millan to Turin Buffalora 9 Novara 16 Vercelli 15 S. Germano 13 Ciâ—uas 10 Turinâ— 10 You have two Rivers to pass by Boat viz. the Dorn after you pass Vereelli and the Tesin near to Ciâ—uas Near to Vercelli you enter into Piedmont there you will meet with waiters or Customers to whom you must give some thing and before this time it will be fitt that you have changed all your Spanish Money except it be Pistols or half Pistols of Gold for these will pass any where either in Piedmont or France When you Arrive at Turin you will think your self allready in France for their Apparel Customs and Discourse are almost altogether French Turin Augusta Taurinorum is the Capital City of Piedmont and is situated in a Plain about 20 Miles distant from the Alps having the Po on the one side and the Dorn on the other The Dukes
to speak to the Religious Men and take their Hour of conveniencie for seing of the Treasure which being done you will have time enough to return to Paris 7 I know nothing better worth your seing about Paris than the Aqueduct at Arcqueul about 2 leagues from the town it was built by Mary of Medices in the time of her Regencie for bringing the the water to her palace of Luxemborg Besides the Aqueduct you will also see there a verie fine Grotto with fine walks and manie prettie Jetts of water one afternoon suffice for this Journey 8. Fountainbleau in which there are so manie things considerable not only in the House furniture and painting but also in the Gardens Walks Fish-ponds and water-works that it will be less trouble for you to observe them by seing than by a long narration I shall only tell you for the better improvement of your Journey thither that you will doe well first to go to 9. Esson a House seven leagues from Paris belonging to a private Gentleman where you will see very fine water works and many other prettie conceats from thence you have 3 leagues 10. To Durance a privat House likewise but to which there belongs very noble gardens and walkes with delicat Ponds and Jetts of water It will not be a miss to stay here all the night being You will have 4 Leagues to Fontainbleau a great part of which is through the Forrest and therefore better to be gone in the morning when the day is before Your hand than in the evening when night may surprize You. 11. You may arrive so early in the morning at Fountainbleau that You may have time to see all before dinner and thereafter returne to Veau a most stately house and gardens correspondent to it built by Monsr Fouguesâ— but since his disgrace it 's fallen to the King From hence you may returne a short League off your way to lodge at Melun The next morning You will have an easie Journey to Paris and time enough if you please to see Vinceu within two short Leagues of Paris It is a House belonging to the King in the middle of a verie pleasant Park after you have seen the House emember to see the Wild Beasts that are kept not far from it If You resolve upon making any greater toure into the counrey I shall advise You to provide a Book called le voyage de France of the latest edition which will give you a hint of the most considerable things that are to be seen in those Places you go to I shall deferr any thing I would say further untill I be happie to hear of Your safe arivall at Paris and then I would be content to trouble you with an other sheet in the mean time I pray for Your happie journey and safe returne Sir I intreat You to signifie to Mr. Hannay as also to Mr. Cranston that if they have any thing to send to me You will be pleased to take charge of it I shall beseech You likewise to do the same by Monsr Marchant at Paris LETTER II. Containing Advice for makeing the grand Toure of France with an Account of what is most observable relateing especially to the Natural History and Antiquities of that Kingdom Sir IT seems You are not yet resolved whither to spend the Winter in Paris or in the Country my opinion is that out of Paris there is litle thing either to be seen or learned in all France But in regard it is pertinent for a Traveler to see some thing of the countrie as well as the chief Town I shall therefore advise you to see those Places chieflie that I judge most suitable to your inclinations and particularie in order to Botany that is Languedock and Provence for altho' there be manie other places of France verie worthie the â—eing as particularlie the River Loyre from Orleance downward to Nantes which for the fertilitie aud beautie of the countrey the frequencie of good Towns and gentle disposition and Courtesie of the inhabitants is called the Garden of France yet you will find that Climate produces but a few things different from Normandy or the Isle of France But if you should incline to see it my advice is that you should not spend much time in doing of it and therefore if you think fit you may make use of the following Advice at your Discretion I suppose You leave Paris about the beginning of June for I would not have you loose the Month of May in the Kings Garden in regard most things will be then or a little before in their Prime which now that the Garden of Blois is no more in Condition is undoubtedly the best you are like to meet with and therefore 1. you may go to Orleans by the Messenger it is but two Days Journie Lodge Chez Monsr Ogilbie sur l'â—â—stape au Roy de la Grand Bretaigne A Day or two will serve you to see all that is considerable in the place It will be worth your while to see a place some two Leagues from the City called the Source where in the midst of a fair green Meadow you will see a Spring of Water so plentifull that it is navigable from its Head and powrs out a River called Loirette 2ly From Orleans to Blois they count 15. Leagues yet it is but a short Days Journie besides if you please you have the Commoditie of the River to go by Boat Be pleased to take Notice of a place by the Way some 4. Leagues from Blois called St. Die where the best Claret in that Countrie grows and is ordinarly to be found Blois of itself is no very considerable Town yet it is famous for makeing of Watches for the Civilitie of the People for the Sweetness of the Air and Puritie of the French Language You must stay there some Days till you have seen the following Particulars viz. in one day you may get to Chambort a house belonging to the King some three leagues off on the south side of the River and South-East from the Town It is said to have been built by King Francis I. and is a very statelie House though of a far different Order of Architecture than what is now used From thence you may go to Herbeau 3. Leagues to the southward of that a privat house belonging to a Gentleman that beares the title thereof It is a very pleasant seat having very fine Gardens with an Orangery Fish-Ponds Woods Maille and Meadowes belonging to it from thence you may go to Bean-Regard another privat house where amongst other prettie things you will see a fine Gallerie well ornamented with the pictures of such persons as have been illustrious for some age from thence you returne to Blois at night as you go and come you will have occasion to see that part of the forrest of Blois that lyes to the South of the River and town as also a litle village called St. Gervais famous over all that countrey
the most part are Protestants There are yet extant some Monuments of antiquitie viz a Triumphal Arch a lttle without the Town and some ruins of a Theatre within the Town both of which shows something of the Roman Greatness in Respect of Modern Times The Counâ—ry about is fertile and there are whole â—â—â—lds of â—aâ—ron I think it might be well worth the while to enquire about the best way of Pâ—anting cultivating gathering and preparing oâ— it Having seen these thing and Dyned You return to Your Lodging at Avignion the same day The next day you take Horses for Aix which is about two days Journey or two days and a half a most If You depart from Avignion early in the morning You will have time enough to see Vauclus which is three Leagues from Avignion and then to go Dine at Cavaillion I look upon Vaucluse as one of the most considrable things I have ever seen it is a fountain at the foot of a great Rock very Large and â—f immense deepness which poures out so much Water as to Move four or five Milnes about half a Mile below It is observed that the Water Diminishes and increases according to the season of the Year In rainy Weather it abounds most and Yet when you consider the position of it how much it is elevated above the plain and what vast hills and Rocks are about it It is not conceaveable with what other Water it should have any communion The River that comes from it tumbles over so many stones and Craigs that it makes a noise like the Catarracks and having neer three quarters of a Mile to fall it becomes exceeding swift before it arrive the Plain and there divides it self in two and incloses a litle Meadow in Form of an Isle and then joyns again The Water is so Clear finding nothing among the Rocks to Defile it that notwithstanding its Swiftness yet it hinders not the grass to grow in it's bed The Fiver is likewise recomended for excellent Trouts and Crawfish and it is agreeable to Reason they should be good that live in so pure streams When You come the length of the Milâ—s you must quite Your Horse to walk up â—o the Sourâ—e and for that 〈◊〉 must take a guide without which the way is not easie As You go up you will observe upon the other side in two other places the Ruins of two old Castles the one standing about a Musket shot higher than the other in the uppermost whereof did sometimes live that Noble Philosopher and Poet Franciscus Pâ—trarcha and in the lower Donna Laura his Mistriss in the praise of whose beautie and vertue he composed his most excelent Triumfe d' Amore a Monument that hath outlasted her familie in which her Memorie is like to live as long as Wit and Learning continues in reputation You may also in this place take notice of the Paper-Milns and consider that so usefull art of makeing Paper and labour to informe yourself well of all the particulars that when GOD shall be pleased to return you you may make it Practicable in your own Countrey I am sure we want not Linnen rags in abundance which might be preserved for this use and not thrown into the Dunghill's were people put once in the right way From hence you go to Dine at Cavaillion in the rest of the Journey to Aix there is nothing considerable only you have a River to pass by boat called Durance Aix is one of the most delicate Towns in France It 's the Capitall City of Provence and the seat of a Parliament The streets are large especialy one great street the Buildings fair and stately The City well watered and the Air very healthfull and Sweet From hence you go to Marseilles in half a day you may lodge at a l' Aigle or al' teste noire You must resolve to stay two or three days at least for the more commodious seeing and observing the following things 1st the Harbory or Port which is very spicious and deep and exceedingly well guarded having upon he entrie thereof to the Sea ward which is very narrow not only a chain drawn but also a very strong Citidale built within these seven or eight years upon the one side oâ— it and an other â—ort upon a litle Island within the Sea at a leagues distance from the entrie all which rendreth it most secure from the Algiers and Tâ—nâ—ies Men of Warr and other Pyrats 2ly the Cathedrall Church which you may easily guesse to be very ancient from the Modell and Architectuâ—e thereof It was first extructed in the honor of Digna by the Greek Phocenses who had a Colonie here 3ly Take notice in the 〈◊〉 before the Church upon the wall looking to the Sea of nine or ten large Brass Guns which use upon the day of the Towns great Festivitie which is sometime in October to be loaden with Bull and discharged by so many of the best gunners of the Town aâ—ter great Mass is ended at a white mark placed on the Side of the hill on the other side of the Harbour He that shoots nearest the Mark is esteemed the best Gunner for that year They begin to fire just as the Arch-Bishop comes out of the Church Who having celebrated Mass in Pontificalibuâ— returnes to his own Housâ— accompanied with the Consul and chief Magistrats of the Place and generally aâ—l the Gentlemen citizens of the best fashion in their best apparell and a great consort of Musick 4ly Nostre dame de la gard a Castle upon the Top of the Hill to the Southward of the Town in in the going thither you will do well to bestow a whole day and take with you a couple of Souldiers from the Citidale or else a Couple of other Souldiers armed at least with Swords and let one of them cary a couple of botles oâ— Wine with bread and what else you think fit as provision for that day the other may cary a Basket with you emptie being thus accourted you may Herbarize upon the way to the Castle and put a litle quantitie of every Herb you find into your emptie basket the better to judge of it at your return as also of what Seeds you find you may put up some for your own and friends use you may returne by the way of the Sea and so Herbarize all thereabouts It is a most excellent place for Varietie of Plants amongst the rest take particular notice of the Tartoâ—rair Massiliensium upon the Sea side you may likewise take notice what Stones or shells Mosses or any other naturall curiosities you can observe if any be worth the preserving bring them along with you 5ly I would have you bestow half a day in a boat upon the Sea without the Harbour but so as it be very calm for then you will easily se the botom of the Water especially where it is not very deep because the Water hath no Motion of ebbing or flowing and so you
that when they have any occasion to dig it is long before they come in most places to the terra Virgine that is which hath not formerly been broke upon and when they are digging into old ruins for Anticails as they are continually doing in severall places they leave off when they come to the Terra Virgine Before the Portico there is a large coffine with it's cover and supporters of Porphyre which they commonly call Agrippa's Tombe Near to the entrie of the Camp of Vacino at the bottom of the back stairs that lead to the Capitol there is a Chapel under ground which was formerly the Prison of St. Peter and St. Paul when they suffered for the Holy name of JESVS It was then called Tullianum according to that of Cicero est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur The Temple of Saturn is hard by which in ancient times was the Aerarium publicum in which the Publick Treasury was keept Thirdly the Amphitheatres most part of which are Ruined especially that which was built by Titus now â—alled the Coliseo by the part thereof that is standing you may abundantly Judge of the Magnificence of the whole when it was extant There is good Herborizing within it and there is one Dominicus Paâ—arolus that hath Writen Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium with the rest of his works in â—0 Romae apud â—ranciscum Monetam 1652. to which I refer You. Fourthly the Aqueducts of which the most part are ancient when they come near to the City they are convey'd under ground to several Fountains in the City and some of them so deep that it is Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep as for example the Aqua Virgine which is the sweetest and best for use in all Rome is conducted so deep thro' the Monte Trinita That in the French Minims Garden there is a descent of six or seven score steps to come at it Amongst all the Fountains in Rome the most beautifull are in the Piazza Navona in the Piazza St. Pietro the Tre Fountane c 5ly The Thermae or Baths as the Thermae Diocletianae built by the Emperour Diocletian It is said that ten thousand Christians were imployed about this work and all cruely Massacred when they had finished it It is now a Monastery of Carthusians in whose common Garden I remember to have seen the Myrtus Buxifoliis The ruins of Thermae Antonini Caracallae they are situated ad Radicem Collis Aventinae I have seen amongst these Ruins that kynd of Capillary which is called Hemionitis and no where else that I Remember of Sixthly the two Columns of Antoninus and Traâ—an Emperours The Statue of St. Peter stands upon the Top of one and that of St. Paul upon the other Trajan was so well beloved of the People that to make a place which in honour of him they called forum Trajani in the midle of which this Column stands they levelled a great Hill of the precise hight of the Column it self Both the Columns are of white Marble and all the out side Historified in base relieue in a spirall line beginning at the bottom and ending at the top That of Trajan hath the whole storie of the Dacian War There is a great Book in Folio of this Column wherein all the figures are cutt in Brass and the Large description thereof added I have forgot the Authors name but I believe You will find the Book Al insegna di Parigi alla pace from Jacomo Rossi where you will likewise find all other sorts of Prints and Tâ—lledouces The Columne of Antoniâ—us is 160 foot High and that of Trajan 128. Altho' they apear to be but smal yet each of them hath a Stair-Case within that leads to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable as that which stands before St. Maria Majore which was one of the Pillars of the Templum Pacis brought hither by Paulus V. who placed a Brasen Statue of the Blessed Virgine upon the Top thereof There is likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a Crucifix on the Top of it erected in memorie of the absolution given to Henry the IV. King of France In the Capitoll likewise there are two viz. the Columna milliaris of which already and the Columna Rostrata which you will see when you view the fine things within that part of the Capitoll whiâ—h stands next to the River where the Hill is most steep and was anciently called Tarpeia Rupes Seventhly the Triumphall Arches as particularly that of Septimius Severus That of Titus and that of Constantine c. Eighthly the Bridges upon the River Ninthly the Obelisks most part whereof are graven with Aegyptian Hieroglyphicks The best of them is erected in the middle of the place before St. Peters upon the back of four Brazen Lyons and a large Pedestal of Marble The next best is at the Porta dell Populo Tenthly the Septem Colles or Montes upon which Rome is said to be built viz. Mons Capitolinus Mons Palatinus Mons Aventinus Mons Celius Mons Esquilineâ—s where the House of Virgil was and the Garden of Mecoenas Mons Viminalis and Mons Quirinalis called now Monte Cavallo where the Popes Palace is Eleventhly some other Hills as the Janicular which is a Chain of Hills without the Walls in the Transâ—evere And the Mons Testaceus which is nothing but a heap of broken earthen Pots and bricks for in ancient times these were so much in use and the Figuli or Tradesmen that made them so numerous that there was a necessity of appointing them a particular place and that by publick edict for throwing the Ruâ—bish of their Furnaces and the pot sheards that broke in the Baking into least otherwise if it had been permitted to throw them into the River it might have occasioned an â—nundation of the City In process of time it grew to the bignes of the third part of a Mile in Compass and a Hundred Sixtie foot in hight This Hill is within the Walls not far from the side of the River as also Mons Vaticanus in Transâ—evere so called a Vaticiniis which used to be made there The Palace of the Vatican stands upon it Twelthly Roma subterranea commonly called the Catacombs whereof Bosio hath writen a large Volumn in Folio There are two of them both without the Walls One of them is at St. Sebastion's Church They are Caverns digg'd under ground in the forme of a Town that is larger and lesser streets crossing one another in some place lower so that You must be forced to stoop but in others higher than a Mans hight and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the other as thick as they can stand one by another are holes or nests wherein were placed the bodies of the Dead one by one upright upon their feet and so the nests Plastered over The Bodies and reliques of many Saints and Martyrs have been found here and were
its integrity to the Conservators of Rome and for some Days keept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity but Pope Alexder coming to understand it caused it to be thrown into the Tyber I must not omit to tell you that there is some incommoditie in this Journey both as to Dyeting and Lodging and sometimes there is perill from the Banditi But he that will gather Roses must not be affraid to prick his Fingers Besides that danger is but sometimes and you may probably find the way clear especially if the Vice-Roy be a stirring Active Man as it often happens For then the Banditi will hardly dare to come so far down from the Hills as the Via appia or High-way to Naples Naples was Anciently called Parthenope from one of the Sirens Buried in this place who as the Fables say Drowned her self for Grief that She could not Charm Vlysses and his Companions Hence Silius lib 12. Sirenum dedit una tuum memorabâ—â—â— nomen Parthenope muris Acheloias aequore cujus Regnavere dâ—l cantus cum dulce per undas Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis It was built Closs upon the Sea at the foot of most pleasant Hills First built by the Cumani or Inhabitants of Cuma who being taken with the sweetness of the Air Pleasantness of the Place did daily increase in number insomuch that the Cumani that lived at Cuma took a Resolution utterly to Ruin Parthenâ—pe â—east their own City should become desoâ—at But it being Ruined there came so great a Pestilence upon Cuma as carried away Multitudes and having consulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruine of Parthenope and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease they should first restore it whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof and called it Neapolis that is to say the new City The sweetness of the Air delicacy of the Country about is so great that many Emperours and Roman Senators being wearied with the Wars and weightiness of Government did repair to this place that they might live pleasantly Peaceably give themselves to the Study of Letters amongst which were Virgil T. Livius Horatius Claudianus â— a great many more At this very present it is no less frequented by the Nobility and Gentrie of the whole Kingdom who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the Year here so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this I think it is for this Reason that it is commonly called Napoli la Gentile Nor is it to be passed by that it gives name to a Kingdom which is not very Ordinary The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills about it It is very well fortified with strong Walls Castles especially since the dayes of Charles V. who built the Castle of St. Elme and called it la Brilia that is Bridle intending to make it so to the mutinous Humour of that people and it may be alluding to the Armes of the City which is an unbridled Horse the exact emblem of the disposition of that people as witness the innumerable Tumults and revolts both of old and late Years made by them I confess there is no small occasion given them by the severe domination of Strangers over them and it is strange that having so many brave and valourous Men amongst them they should more readily agree to submit their necks to the Yoak of a Stranger than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their own number and Nation It is thought the great emulation which the Spaniards as wisely as industriously keep up to the hight amongst the Princes who are but too numerous for the extent of the Kingdom is the great cause of their unhappiness You may take notice of these particulars within the Town 1ly The Churches of which this City hath a greater number than any other of its bigness in Europe Amongst the rest that of the Annunciata is so Rich that the Rent of the Hospitall thereof is capable to entertain 5000 Poor part whereof are Children found St. Chiana together with the Monastrie of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants is very glorious It was Built by Agnes of Spain Queen to King Robert There are many curious Sepulchres to be seen here of Kings Queens and their Children In the Church of St. Dominico is to be seen the Image of the Crucifix that said to St. Thomas Aquinas bene scripsisti do me Thoma In the Church of the Fratâ— di monte Oliueto the true Pictures of Ferdinand the first and the second and Alfonsus the First both Kings of Naples are so Admirably well done that they seem to be living There is likewise Buried here Alexander ab Alexandro who composed that learned work Genialium dierum The Church called the Domo hath a Chapell composed of Marble Jasper Gold and Brass wherein is keept the Head of St. Gennaro and a little Phiole of his Blood all together fixed which being approached to the Head of the St. â—immediatly begins to boyll dissolves and becomes clear The most ancient of all the Churches is that of St. Paul keept now by the Jesuits It was formerly the Temple of Castor and Pollux 2. The Religious Houses or Convents of which there are so great a number that the Dominicans alone have seventeen The Chartrous convent stands upon the Hill a little beneath the Castle St. Elmâ— ' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of Naples a great part of the Campania Felice the monte Vesuvio all the Bay of Naples the Island of Capreae the Hill Posilipo Puteoli Baii Cuma c. The Cloister of the convent is all of white Marble and in short both the Church and whole Convent are altogether Magnificent 3ly The Hospitals which are about twelve in number amongst which that of the Annunciata and of the Incueabili are the most considerable It is said that they Marry 665. Maids every Year and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats and the greatest 300. 4ly The Castles of which there are 4. The Castle d'Ovo stands within the Sea upon a Rock built of an Oval Figure by Willam III. a Norman The Castle Novâ— was built by Charles the first Brother to St. Lewes but it was Ferdinand of Aragon that fortified it so well It is of a quadrangular figure Built of polished Stone as hard as Marble it hath foure great Bastions and five Towres together with strong ramparts and deep Ditches which the Sea water filleth It is ordinarly keept by a Garison of the Spaniards Consisting of 500. There is a great Magazin of all kinds of Armes Engines for War keept within it In the middle of it stands the Governours Palace
capable to Lodge a King It is excellently furnished with Hangings of silk and gold many excellent Statues and Pictures Amongst other fine things there is a Cabinet furnished with all sorts of curiosities The Castle of St. Elm stands upon the top of a Rock commanding all about it It 's Garison consists of 250. Spainards It was built by King Robert the first Son to Charles II. but afterwards farr better fortified with great Bastions by the Emperour Charles V. who called it La Brillia di Napoli The Castle Capuano so called from it's situation which is near to the Port of Capuano is rather a Palace than a Fortress where the Magistrats of the City and Officers of justice keep their Assemblies 5. The Palaces whereof there are a very great number amongst which that of the Viceroy That of the Prince of Salern which the Jesuits now possess are very considerable The Palace of the Duke of Gravina is most superb That of the Carafi is adorned with abundance of excellent statues of Marble and Brass There be many other worthie to be seen as also the beautifull Garden of Don Garcia di Toledo which is full of Grotto's Fountains Water works statues c. 6. The Harbour or Sea Port which is fortified with a Superb mole first made by Charles II. And then very much mended by Alfonsus the first for the greater security of the Harbour 7. The Publick Places the streets the avenues of the Town 8. The Suburbs which are seven in number amongst which the most considerable is that which leads A la grotio di Posilipo near to the entry of which Grotto stands la mergelina looking into the Bay it was sometimes the House of pleasure of Sanazarius that famous Poet who gave it to the Religious men called Servi This Suburb is no less than two miles in length from the City to the Grotto of Poâ—lipo The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs is counted to be about six miles and the Inhabitants to be about 30â—000 Soules Statius Papinius and Jacobus Sanazarius both excellent Poets together with many other great Virtuosi were borne in this City It will be worth the while also to take a view of the Book-sellers Shops there being many good Books Printed here which hardly or not all can be found with us as for example the works of Baptista Porta whereof the Impressions at Naples were both the first and fairest and the Cutts for the most part Tailledouce The works of Fabius Columna which are almost out of Print and especially his Phytobasanos It may likewise happen that there are some new peeces emitted which will never come to our hands for at least not tell after a great while It is likely too that You may meet with many other Books that in other places You had sought in vain for there are many learned and Curious men in this City and they are as mortall here as elsewhere and as ordinary a thing it is to sell their Books You will likewise meet with a great many curiosities of all sorts espccially from the Levant some naturall as stones shells Animalls or parts of them fruits c. Others artificiall some of Leather as Purses Letter-cases cups and a great many things of that kind usualy brought from Allepo and Constantinople Some of Silk either alone or mingled with gold and silver as Sashes Girdles Cravats Night-Caps wastcoats stockings c. Outlandish Armes as Cimetres Poyniards Bows and Arrows with severall sorts of fire Armes Medalls antient and modern Intalio ' s Chameo ' s c. But in these You must take some heed that You mistake not the modern for antique Having well viewed and considered the City and all things in it It will be necessary to see those things that are considerable about it And first the Hill Posilipus famous for it's Gardens and Houses of Pleasure for it's Fruits and Wines especially the greco di Posilipo But that which is most Admirable in this Hill is the Passage cut quite thro' it By Cocceius of whom Pontanus saith Nescio an is fuerit M. Cocceius Nerua Augusti Avus qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulitque mâ—ximam Architecturae Laudem Howeveâ— it is certain he must have been a man of great Riches that durst undertake so great a work at his oun expence It is called la Grotta di Posilipo and is very near a mile in length cutt thro' the Rock As for the breadth of it one Coach may pass another with ease And for the Hight I believe a man on Horseback will hardly touch the Roof of it with a Lance At the two ends it is some what higher than in the middle I think of purpose that the light might enter the farther When You enter at the one end You will very hardly perceive the light in the other end but as You advance it begins to appear by little and little In the Just middle of it on that side which is next the Sea there is a little Chapell where a Lamp is keept continually burning but it is more out of Devotion than for any light it gives betwixt the Chapell and the end as it were about the middle on every side of the Chapell there is a hole cutt thro' the Hill which serveth for a window but it gives little light It is exceeding dusty especeially if there be many Horses Ryding together altho' it be paven with stone because there comes no Rain to wash it and none takes pains to make it clean Those that goe from Naples to Pozzuolo if they hear any Horses Coaches or Carts coming toward them least they should stop the way or unawares Justle one another they use to cry aloud dal mare which when the others hear they cry in like manner dal monte and so those that goe from Naples take that side of the Grotto which is next the Sea and these that go to it take the side next the Hill and so avoid all incumbrance At the mouth of the Grotto upon the top thereof is the famous Sepulchre of Virgil. There is little remaning of it now except a few Ruins of an old Brick wall in the middle whereof anciently there did stand nine small Pillars which sustained a Marble Uâ—â— in which were contained the Poets ashes with this Distich Mantua me genuit Calabri rapuere tenet nunc Parthonope cecini pascua rura duces Not far from this Tomb is the Sepulchre of that famous Poet Sanazarius in a Place called Mergelina a Villa given him by King Frederick where he built a Church in Honour of the BIessed Virgin and composed that incomparable Poem de partu Virginis He is Buried within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue done to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal â—embo Da Sacro cineri flores hic ille Maroni Sineerus musa proximus ut tumulo There are many other excellent Statues Base Relieves and Pictures within this Church well
the Ricinus or Palma Christi not only growing wild but out-living that Winter and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of March altho ' it be an Annual Plant with us that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed You may have your Horse at Pozzuolo and hyre a boat to cross the Bay for seeing of the following things And 1. hard by the City the remains of that Superb mole which having been ruined by storme was afterwards Restored by the Emperour Antoninus But at present all that Remains is 12. or 13. great Pillars built of Brick and stones of vast bigness They appear so many towrs over which there are yet remaining but half Ruined some Arches This fashion of Moles seem to be the best because the Pillars and Arches are sufficient to break the water and secure the Ships within and by letting part of the water enter betwixt the Pillars lessens it's violence so that the Pillars suffer not half so much as if they were one continued wall The Emperour Caligulae built a bridge of boats from Pozzuolo to Baii upon which he went in Triumph first on Horsback and then in Chariot but it was of small continuance and served only to be the subject of discourse in future ages Having passed these Pillars Yov put ashore hard by the Lacus Lucrinus which as some said was so called a Lucro from the profit which it yeilded to the Romans by the great abundance of excellent Fish especialie Oysters which were esteemed before any other in Italy Whence Martial to express the Gluttony of a certain Person Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino But there is little water in it now it being almost dryed up by that most Terrible eruption of the Solfatara which happned in the Year 1538. the 29. of September two hours after Sun set the whole countrey about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantitie of fire Stones Pumecks and ashes that near to the monte Barbaro formerly called mons Gaurus it made another Hill near three miles in compass and almost as high as the monte Barbaro The south part of it looks to the Sea the north reaches to the Lacus Avernus on the East it is joined with the foot of Monte Barbaro It is called monte Nuovo These ashes did not only make this Hill but covered likewise a great part of the Country about Killing both beasts and Trees and ruining the Vintage for that Year The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands and many Wells of fresh Water which sprung here and there 2. The Lacus Avernus is about half a miles distance from the Lago lucrino It is compassd about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees that did over shaddow the water and make it look black and likewise did hinder the Sulphureous Vapours that did arise from the water to dissipat so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noysome especially to Fowls that they could not live in it and hence came the Name Avernus At present there is little or no Wood about it nor is the Air any thing more noysome there than in other places about and I have seen Fowles haunting about it and swimming in it It is said to be very deep for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof 3. Upon the west side of the Lake cutt into the Hill is the Antrum Sybillae commonly called Grotta della Sybilla but not truly for the true Cave of Sybillâ— is at Câ—â—â—a This seems rather to have been a common passage from Avernus to Pâ—ia but is now stopt at the one end by the falling down of the Hill above The passage is large and High but altogether dark and therefore You must be guided by Torch light When You are got a good way in upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length that leads into a handsome large Chamber which altho' it be now much ruined appears to have been Richly adorned the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blew and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pavement consisting of many small peeces like unto Mosaick It is a vulgar errour that this was Sybilla's Chamber and that the Temple of Apollo where she received her Responses was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake But it is not so for the Ruins of that Place appeare not to have been any Temple at all But rather a Superb Bathing House such as that of Baia for it has the same order of Windows Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours But to returne to the Grotto upon the left hand as You enter into this Chamber there is another Passage some what higher and larger than the first about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill which leads into another Chamber from which there is a narrow passage which leads into another Chamber and severall other little passages and Roomes which I doe not distinctly remember only this much that in one of them there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water In this Room the heat is so great that it is impossible to continue any time in it without excessive Sweating which makes me to believe that these Rooms were intended for no other use than Bathing and Sweating 4. The Remains or Ruins and first Bagno di Cicerone 2ly Bagno di Tritoli quasi Frittoli qâ—od Corpora ibi fricrentur The Entrie to it is large and high Towards the ground it is cold but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat and the farther one goes in the greater the Heat is At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark and even where the Sea covers it the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull of it 5. Baia So called from Baius the Companion of Vlysses who was Buried there It was a most delicat City but now altogither Ruined and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garison of 30. Souldiers for Securing the Port which is verie safe for Gallies but not deep enough for Ships The whole Bay or Sinus of Baia is exceedingly Pleasant all that Tract betwixt Avernus and the Mons Misenus being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures Many of the Roman Emperours took great pleasure in this place and spared no cost for the beautifying of it Horace who was no ill Judge gives this Testimony of it Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis As You go forward from Baia You will still be finding something worthie the Remarking as 1. The House of Agrippina Nero's Mother who was put to Death here by her Sons Command It is commonly said to be her Sepulchre but it is not true There is yet
will pay some small thing You will likeways do well to rid your self of all Spanish Monie gold excepted unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your expenses to Fuâ—die because it will not pass in any place of Italy except such as are under the Spanish Dominion If the Season of the Year be good there is excellent Herâ—â—rising upon this â—oade to Naples You will find Wild in the Fields many sorts of Narcissus's many Colours of single Anemone's Squills Asâ—hâ—delus albus maâ—or Tithymalus Dendroides It is a Plant I never saw except upon the way from Pipern◠〈◊〉 Tâ—rrachina about mid way upon a Hill side where it groweth in great aboundance It is a stately tall Plant 〈◊〉 reading it self into severall Branches some whereof I observed to be as big as a Mans Wrist It had few or no leaves on it in the Season when I saw it which was March but aboundance of Yellow Flowers at the Top's of the Branches The Ficus indica lati-folia is a Beastly weed in the same Place and spoiles all the Ground every leafe that falls springing up into a new Plant which at last becometh hard and woodie Tuchrâ—um lusit anicum arborescens of which I saw some goodly tufts near to Terachina There be many other which for brevities sake I omit to mention and likeways a great many that I have forgot having lost those notes I made of their names and places but I hope you will supply this defect being your self much more able to do it Being returned to Rome which I shall suppose to be about the middle or end of April It will be fitt for you to think of the next Voyage towards Loretto unless you resolve to pass the Summer at Rome for after the 20th of May untill the latter Rains fall which is commonly about the middle of September or the beginning of October the extream heat makes Travel very unseasonable But if in the case of necessity such as Pestilence or War you should be forced to undertake the Journey you must order it so as to Travel most in the Night and Rest in the heat of the Day and be sure not to Sleep till you have passed the Campania of Rome as I have formerly marked The Way to Loretto from Rome  Miles Prima porta 7 Castel Novo 8 Rignano 7 Civita 9 Oâ—ricoli 8 Narâ—i â— Terni â— Stretturâ— 8 Spoletâ— 8 Passo di Spelâ—to 8 Verchiâ—no Bâ—rgâ— 9 Piâ— di dignano â— Muccâ—a Castello 7 Valcimara 8 Toâ—entino 9 Macerata 10 Loretto 6 I have not much to say of the particular places upon this Road only Ternâ— is an Ancient City and pleasantly situated the River Negra in Latine Nar being divided in many Branches and drawn through the Town are as it were so many little Rivers whence also the Town in Latine is called Interamna the Meadowes Fields about it are exceedingly fertile in so much that the meadowes are mowen three or four times a Year and they talk that Turneps are often found there of five or six thirtie weight of which seaven or eight will load an Ass it is also renowned for Pidgeons which are thought the biggest most savoury in Italy If you can take the leisure to stay here any time it will be worth your while to see the Lago di piedi luco in Latine Lacus velinus not far from Terni which is said to be the middle of all Italy that which is most considerable in it is the Issue of the Waters from it which was cut by a Roman Consul through a Rock whence it Rushes out and falls over so great a hight of Rocks that it makes a noise which may be heard at ten Miles distance and makes a greater cascata then that of Tivoli From Verchianâ— you have the Appennine to pass which is that ridg of Hills that divides all Italy by the length From Valcimara the way is exceeding good to Loretto Loretto it self is a little Town not very Ancient built upon the Top of a Hill not above 3 or 4 Miles from the Adriatick Sea it is fortified reasonably well the most considerable thing in it is the Church in the Quire whereof stands the Casa Sâ—ncta brought thither from Judeae Miraculously by Angels as is beleeved This is the House in which the blessed Virgin is said to have been Born The out-side of it is walled about with Marble cut into excellent Figures but yet so as the Walls touch not the Holy House The inside hath continually Lamps burning in it some of Gold some of Silver There is in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin which they say were painted by St. Luke The Image of the Virgin which stands upon the Altar hath a Garment upon it all covered with Pearles upon the Head a Crown of Gold enriched with Jewells upon the Top whereof there is a Carbuncle of the bigness of an Egg. There is likeways shown within the House a little Dish out of which our Saviour is said to have Eat his Meat whilst he was yet a Babe People commonly bring their Beads Medals other peeces of Devotion to be put in this Dish to touch the other relicts The Sacristia is well worthy the seeing because of the Jewels and other Rich presents and Ornaments belonging to the House which are keept there and have been given and offered continualy by allmost all Princes and great Persons in Christendom The Cellar is likeways worthie the seeing being exceedingly Large and full of Wines Amongst others they ordinarly shew one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4 sorts of Wine some red some white The number of Pilgrims and other Persons that out of Devotion resort to this Place from all the parts of Christendom is allmost infinit insomuch that every Day appears to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one continued Feast So soon as the Gates are opened in the morning they begin to enter as it were in Procession I believe there are but few Inhabitants in the Town except a few Trades-men of all sorts for the Accommodation of Strangers the greatest part are Merchants that sell nothing but Beads and peeces of Devotion such as Medals of Silver Gold Brass Christal c. Books of Devotion and such like There is good Accommodation in the Town at a reasonable Rate The City is Commanded by a Governour who hath his Palace near to the Church We were Recommended to him by Cardinal Charles Barbarini and were treated by him with great Civilitie his Secretary being commanded to wait upon us and show us all that was considerable in the place After two days stay here we dismissed our Horses that we brought from Rome and Hyred new ones from Loretto to Bolognia From Loretto to Bolognia  Miles Ancona 15 La casa Brugiata 9 Cenigalia 9 Fano 9 Pesaro 6 Rimini 20 Sanigniana Castello 9 Cesena 10 Furli 10 Faenza 10 Imola 10 St. Nicola Castello 10 Bolognia 10
Ancona is about half a days Journey from Loretto It is a verie ancient City and the best Sea Port in Italy at least upon the Adriatick Coast The Port was Built at least Restored and Beautified by Trajan the Emperour in whose Honour a most stately Triumphal Arch was Raised upon it which it yet extant with this Inscription in Capital Letters Imp. Caes. diâ—i Nervae F. Nervae Trajano optimo August Germanic Daetico Pontef max. Tr. Pot. xix Imp. xi Cos. vii P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R. Quod adcessum Italiae Hoc etiam addito ex pecunia sua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus reddiderit And upon the Right side thereof You may Read this Inscription Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug. And upon the left Divae Marcian Aug sorori August Cenigalia is a little Town having a Sea-Port It seems from the name to have been built and to have belonged to the Galli Cenones Fano Antiently Fanum because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here There is a stately Triumphall Arch of Marble 30 Cubits High Pesaro is a very Pleasant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace It is well Peopled and well Fortified The Duke of Vrbin to whom this City did belong used to pass one half of the Year here But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Dutchie is Reunited to the Ecclesiastick state Rimini in Latine Ariminum is like to be so called from the River Arimine that passes by it There are severall fair Palaces in it built by the Mala-testi antient Lords of the Place There is a Triumphal Arch erected in Honour of Augustus yet extant and the Ruines of a great Theatre But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge Built of great square Marble stones of twentie foot in length and 15. in breadth with five Arches The Bridge Joynes the Via Flaminia and the Via Emilia together It is said to have been Built by Tiberius Caesar. In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which Julius Caesar stood and encouraged his Officers when he began the Civil War This Stone hath this Inscription C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato civili Bello Comilitones suos hic in forâ— Ariminensi adlocutus Within a Mile of Cesina or there abouts You must pass the Rubicon which seems to be but a Torrent and in the Summer time for the most part dry At the place where You pass there is yet extant an ancient Pillar the Inscription whereof hath made the name of Rubicon so famous it is as follows Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Comilito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito Vexillum sinito ne citra hunc amnem Rubiconem signa Arma ductum commeatum Exercitumque traducito siquis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit feceritve adjudicatus esto hostis P R. ac si contra Patriam armaverit Sacrosque Penatos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus NE Consulto ultra hos fines Armae proferre liceat nemini S. P. Q. R. And upon the other side of the Pillar the following Inscription Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu adagio Jactae alcae Celebratum Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajectum Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Superstitio Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio Innocent X o Summo Pont Card D Legato 1654. Furli in Latine Forum Livii where there is litle thing considerable except the Market Place Faenza is divided in two by the River Lamone over which stands a goodly Bridge that Joynes the two parts of the Town together it is called in Latine Faventia and the People Faventini The whole way from Ancona to Bolognia is Plain and Smooth and the Countrey on all sides very Rich and Fertile but especially near to Bolognia which deservedly is called la Crassa where the whole Countrey on everie sâ—de of the high way looks like Gardens being Hedged and closed in on all sides and Planted with Olive and while Mulberry Trees the Leaves whereof â—erve to the â—eeding of Silk Wormes and at the Roots of which the Vines being Planted run up and spread themselves thorow all the Branches of the Trees and load them with Grapes The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sowen sometimes with Wheat or other usefull Grain or Kitchin Herbs and Roots Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choisest Fruits that Italy affoords Bolognia is the second Town of the Ecclesiastick State sweetly situated in a large Plain near to some Hills at the one side The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth and about 5 Miles in Compass The Inhabitants are not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques There is a famous University many fine Colledges worthie to be seen As also many fine Churches Religious Houses The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. Peters has the Priviledge of making Doctors above others In the Church of Corpus Christi may be seen the intire Body of St. Katharine of Vigri a Religious Woman of the Order of St. Clare that Died at Bolognia in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bent and streacht her Eyes open her Hands and Feet bare In one Hand She holds a Crucifix the other is placed upon a Pillow They use in the presence of a great deal of Companie to paire her Nails every Month and to cut her Hair once a Year after they are grown In the Iacobins Church is keept the Head of St. Dominick in a Rich Tabernacle and his Body in a Curious Tomb of white Marble cut in severall figures of Base relieve In the Choire may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament with wonderfull Artifice represented in mosaick of of Wood. There is also to be seen here a rare Peece of Painting of the Innocents made by Guido Reni all the parts of this Convent are worthie the taking notice of the Cloisters the Dormitories of above 150 Religious the Refictory Painted by great Masters the Apothecaries Shop and the Bibliotheck and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big There be many fine Palaces worthie the seeing and very well Ornamented within but especially the Popes own Palace where the Legat resides and in it you must take particular care to see Aldrovandi's Studie and Collection of Curiosities which are keept in this Palace and commonly intrusted to the Legats Physitian There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court Aldrovandi's Garden in which there are some Curious Plants In the Study you will see a great Herball in water Colours but without any description as also a whole press full of Manuscripts written all with his own Hand There are severall Towres in the
from another Upon the Top of the one is placed a flying Lion guilded which is the Armes of Venice and the Symbole of St Mark Upon the Top of the other the Statue of St Theodore gilded Betwixt these Pillars Justice is usuallie done upon Male-factors About the middle of the place stands 3 verie Tall Poles like unto Ships Masts whereupon the Standards of the Republick are displaied at great Solemnities On that side of the place which is opposit to the Dukes Palace stands the Mint-House a verie goodlie Fabrick composed of Stone and Iron without any Wood at all 5ly The Arsenal which is the largest and best Furnished in the World it is strongly Walled about and the Sea drawn about it likeways There are fifteen or sixteen hundred Men constantly at Work besides Old Men who are not able to work but intertained for instructing the younger Here are keept all sort of Amunitions of War both for Sea Land in vast Quantities and in that good Order that I have heard some confidentlie say that there were Workmen within the Arsenal that were able to build a Gally and reik her out compleatly in one Hours time which if it be true argues a great deal of sharpness in the Workmen and readiness of the Materials There are severall lesser Islands at some distance from the Town worthie to be seen and particularlie 1. Murain about a Mile Northward from the City It is well built and many good Houses in it It is in this Island that all those famous Crystall Glasses so much talked of and so much sought after throughout the World are made It is observed here that the Glass-works succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the other They have likeways a great Art of whitneing Wax which is observed to succeed better in this Island than any other place in or about the City There are abundance of Oysters likeways in this Island they ordinarly keep them in Baskets near the Shoare to have them in readiness when they are called for but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant noâ— so wholesome as at Lighorn and other places especiallie being eaten raw for I have often found the eating of them so to give a verie troublesome Flux of the Belly to severall Persons 2ly The Isle of St Helena where there is a verie statelie Monasterie Church with Monks of the Order of Mont Olivet In this Church is keept the Body of the Emperess St Helena This Isle lyes to the Eastward of the Town and about two Miles further the same way stand the two Forts del Lâ—do and Casielnovo which both defend them selves mutuallie and secure the entrie to the City from Enemies in time of War 3ly Malamocco where all Ships and Vessels of anie considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the Harbour 4ly The Isle of St. George lying just before the place of St. Mark at half a Miles distance where there is an Abbace of the Order of St. Benedict with a most Stately and Glorious Church together with a Garden and fair Walks which is thought no small thing in that Place Altho' a Traveller cannot be alltogether sure of his times there being so many Contingencies that may force him either to Arive too soon or too late yet it were to be wished that a Man might happen to be at Venice in the time of Carnoval because of the Opera's and fine shows that are to be seen and the Extraordinarie Musick at that time In the Summer time the great Divertisement is to go in Gondole upon the great Canale where towards the Evening one may see Five or six hundred Gondols touring up and down full of Ladies and Gentlemen severalls of them with Musick both Vocal and Instrumental which is one of the greatest Gusto's imaginable You cannot miss to meet with a great many Curiosities here both Natural and Artifâ—cial because of the great resort that Strangers have to this Place especiallie from the Levant you will find Medals Intaleo's Chamaeo's c. amongst the Goldsmiths I have seen severall Curiosities to sell in the place of St. Mark and sometime within the Court of the Palace and in many other corners throughout the City You may meet with maby Curiosities of Glass that are both usefull and delightfull It will be worth your while to Visit the Book-sellers Shops for besides many Curious Books that you may light upon here and particularly of Botany you may likeways find verie many Books that are prohibited in many other places of Italy Be pleased to inquire diligently for a thin 40. called Trattato de simplici Pietre pesci marini che nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo all'insegnâ— di St. Liberale in Venetia 1631. Printed by Pietro Maria Bertano Donati himself was Dead before I came thither but I found out his Brother a Man of the same Profession and living at the same place but nothing knowing in Simples After I had told him the respect I had for his Brothers Memorie and my regrate for the loss of so worthie a person he was pleased to show me a great many Brass-Plates of so many Plants not yet described together with their description done by his Brother I am confident were they Published they would make a bigger Volume than the first They were in Confusion when I saw them but I put them in Order and prayed him to keep them so untill he should find the opportunitie of printing them which I found him willing to do at his own Expense nor to trust it with an other least his Brothers name should have been stolen from it If it be not as yet printed you may see what you can do either to purchase the Manuscript and Plates or promise the printing of it There are many Virtuosi in the City that have great Collections of fine things which you may be pleased to inquire after and see From Venice you have twentie five Miles to Padua whereof foâ—r by Berg to the Terra ferma and the rest you go by Boat drawen with Horses by the River Brent which is a most pleasant and soft running River having plain Fertile most delicious Fields on either side full of Villages pleasure-Houses to which the Inhabitants of Venice use to resort in the Summer-Time The River runs not all of a Levell therefore there are three or four Locks or Sluces by means whereof at severall places the River is made portable which otherways it would not be There is such an other Lock upon the Canale of Briar near to Montargis in France You will more easilie understand the manner of them by seeing them than by any description I can make of them Padua in Latine Pattavium Is a very Ancient and Large Town famous over the World for its Vniversity whence it is called Padua la dotta There are many things considerable in the Town fit to be seen and take notice of As