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A57948 The present state of the Morea, called anciently, Peloponnesus which hath been near two hundred years under the dominion of the Turks, and is now very much depopulated : together with a description of the city of Athens, islands of Zant, Strafades, and Serigo / faithfully described by Bernard Randolph, who resided in those parts from 1671 to 1679. Randolph, Bernard, b. 1643. 1686 (1686) Wing R235; ESTC R13431 15,138 30

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MAINA Is that Country where the Manjotts inhabit It lies West of the Plain of Misitha and so runs down to the Sea being Mountanous and full of Woods and very difficult to come at either by Sea or Land In the Year 1667 they rebelled and sent to the Venetians and Malteses who came to their assistance bringing with them Powder and other Ammunition Many Parties of them would often make Incursions into the Turks Dominions and did much harm But the Captain Bassha who went with Forty Gallies to relieve a Castle called Zarnata reduced them to their former Obedience Articles were drawn up in which the Manjotts consented to pay a small Tribute Yet do they continue to cruise about with their Briganteens If they take any Turks they sell them to the Malteses and Legorneses as they do the Christians to the Turks If any Ship come to Anchor on their Coast many arm themselves and go to the place over against where the Ship doth ride some of them will be in Priests Habits walking by the Sea side with their Wallets in which they will have some Wine and Bread Their Companions lye hid behind the Bushes at some convenient Post When any strangers come ashore who do not understand their Language the feigned Priests make signs to them shewing them their Bread and Wine which they offer to them for money by which the strangers being enticed from the Sea fide and it may be to sit down and tast their Wine the hidden Manjotts come and make their Prey The Priests will seem to be sorry and endeavour to make the strangers believe they were altogether ignorant of any such design So a white Flagg is put out and a Treaty held with the Ship for their Ransome The Priests endeavour to moderate the Price shewing a great deal of respect to their Companions who are cloathed in Turkish Habits Many Ships have been thus served Such a business happened to some English Ships who having the Winds contrary came to Anchor near the Island Cervi in one of which Sir Paul Rycaut was a Passenger going for Constantinople several Young Men were taken and they paid dear for visiting the Manjotts and though the Earl of Winchilsea then Embassadour from his Majesty at Constantinople made complaint of it no redress could be had In the Plains are many Olive Trees and Vine-yards In the Woods there are many wild Vines There are great quantities of Quailes so as they Salt them up and send them to several other parts Powder and Shot is here scarce but they do so well manage the Sling as is to admiration with which they kill Birds on the Wing The Sea Ports in Maina are Chetri Vitulo Porto Quaglio Yaracaria Pagana Rapana with several other small Ports and Creeks where they shelter themselves when they are pursued The Garrisons which the Turks have in Maine are Zarnata Vitulo Kifala and Passava Here are two Famous Pyrats the one called Manetta the other Giracare being the chief for Family and Power amongst them MALVASIA formerly called EPIDAVRES Is a strong Castle standing on a Rock about twenty Miles to the North of the Cape St. Anzolo in the Archipelago It has a narrow and difficult Passage to the Continent It is very well Fortified with good Works having about 100 good Guns notwithstanding it stands in the Sea and seems to be all Rock yet it hath on the top a fine Plain with Gardens and several Springs with good Water This place stands very convenient for transporting Men and Provision for Candy not being above thirty Leagues distance from Canea Hence the Visier Kupri-Ogle sailed when he went for Candy and more Souldiers were Shipped from hence for Candy in the late War than from any other Port of Turky It is very populous and the Seamen are esteemed the best of any in these parts Here are the choicest Wines esteemed at Venice to be the best of all in Greece NAPOLI Is a large City now the chief in all the Morea being above two Miles in Compass the Sea going almost round it The houses stand thick and very full of People It is the Seat of the Bassha The Castle is well seated to the North standing above any part of the Town There is but one way into the City by Land which is at the side of high Mountains very difficult The Harbour is very secure having a narrow entrance passing Rocks so as but one Gally can come in at a time Before which Entrance is a Fort built on low Rocks where are several very good Guns It stands about 300 Paces from the Haven have shoal Water round about it No Ships can come to hurt the City with their Shot it being cover'd to Seaward from any danger by high and strong Walls on which and in the Castles are above 200 Guns ARGOS Is about twenty four Miles from the Sea It stands in a very fine Plain having more Houses and Inhabitants than Corinth but not so much scattered The Castle is seated on a Hill very pleasantly The Walls are much gone to ruine having but few Guns and those without Carriages The Ruines are above three miles about the Castle The Plain is very delightsome abounding with Wine Oyl and all sorts of Grain TRAPOLIZZA formerly called MEGALOPOLIS Hath the Name of a City tho' it be not so big as some Towns It is now the chief place of all the once Famous Province of Arcadia The Turks call it Mora Orta that is the Center or Middle of the Morea Here are very rich Turks who have their Wealth in Land and Cattle most being Graziers and Husbandmen This is the only place which deserves the Name of a Town in the whole Province The Great Moske was formerly a Heathen Temple The Houses are very mean The Turks live most in their Farms which they call Cheftlicks not being in danger of Pyrats The Province of Arcadia is all surrounded with Mountains most of which are covered with Woods Yearly they burn the Grass and Bryers to clear the ground against the Spring then very good Pasture grows up in its stead There hath been many Villages some have been Cities but now the Albaneses who are the Shepherds and three times the Number as the Turks and Greeks which are in these parts live most in Tents removing their Tents and Herds according to the season of the Year In the Summer time they are up in the Mountains and in the Winter they are in the Woods by the Sea side being more or less Tents together There are a sort of these Albaneses which have a great Village called Syleman as the Mountains have the same Name These Albaneses have often Rebelled and kept themselves up in the Mountains doing much mischief by Robbery They were so strong in the Year 1679 as the Bassha went with 500 Men to reduce them by granting a General Pardon LEPANTO formerly called NAVPACTVS And now by the Turks Einabackti stands on the Rumili shoar about three
speak it Every Town hath Greek Elders which they call Yerondo's These appear upon all Publick Matters and levy Taxes on the Towns-People proportionably to their Abilities The Albaneses are of the Greek Church They generally live not in Towns yet have several Villages one of which is very large called Sylemen It stands in the Mountains near the City of Arcadia which Mountains have the same Name They live most in Tents being for the most part Shepherds The T'Zackonians are most in Towns they are a very poor People serving as Porters both Men and Women carrying very great Burthens There are also a great many Jews who for the most part are Merchants and Shop-keepers living but poorly the Athenian Merchants supplying most of the Country with all sorts of Merchandizes and chiefly from Venice The Turks are very rich in their Cloathing here their Vests being most made with fine Venice Cloth The Merchandizes of the Morea or Product of the Land are Olive-Oyl Raw-Silk Wax Honey Soap Cordovan-skins Sheep-skins Butter Cheese Raisons Currans Figgs Wines Wheat Barly Rye Oates dry'd Acorns which the Venetians call Valania and which are used in Italy for Tanning of Leather as we use the Bark of the Tree Fustick Wood and Pernicoke Seed which Seed is for Dyeing of Scarlet It grows on a Shurb-Oak-tree rising at the stemm of the Leaf like a Blister something bigger than a Pea out of which comes Dust or Powder which being dry turns to small Worms which when quickned they kill with Wine The Soyl of the Land is very good They Plow with two Oxen and without Wheels nor are they at the pains to dung the Ground They have many Weeds and the Liquorice Root is very troublesome being deep They reap their Corn much in the manner as we do but have no Barns only Threshing-floors which the Turks call Chirman They are on high ground and open to the Winds Here they tread it out with Horses which are made fast to a Post round which the Corn is put the Horses trampling upon it make great dispatch with the Wind they cleanse it and send it home to their Houses that which they intend to keep they put into great Earthen Jarrs and Baskets made with slit Canes which Baskets are dawbed over with wet Cow-dung which being well dryed not only keeps in the Corn but also preserves it cool The Turks are usually at these places with a Watch well Armed if near the Sea all the time of the Corn treading They have great quantity of Grass but make no Hay feeding their Horses with chopt Straw and Barly they Litter them with Horse-dung which being dryed in the Sun and shaken falls asunder and is very soft In the Spring they feed them with green Barly tying one of their hinder-leggs to a Stake which they remove twice a day keeping them to an allowance Besides the Common Grass they have a sort of Clover Grass which they give them Green after their feeding on Barly bringing it home to their Stables In August the common Grass is usually parcht and dry which therefore they burn and new soon springs up in its place The Trees in the Woods are several sorts of Oaks Pine Firr wild Chesnut and wild Pear In their Gardens they have Orange Lemon Citron Pomegranate Apricock Peach Plum and Cherry-Trees Apples and Pears they have not many nor are they so good as usually they be with us Cypress-trees and Wallnuts they are plenty In the Plains near any Springs are most stately Plane-trees which are very shady They have all sorts of Garden Herbs as we have and great quantity of Musk-melons Water Melons and several sorts of Gourds In the Month of December they begin to make Oyl continuing it till the beginning of March or according as the quantity of Olives is February March and April are for making Butter and Cheese also for sheering their Sheep May and June is the time for cutting their Corn. In June and July they are imployed in gathering Mulberry Leaves to feed their Silk-worms August September and October are for gathering and drying their Currans Figgs Raisons Valania Pernicoke Seed and Tobacco also for making their Wine and taking up their Honey and Wax Their Oyl they put into great Earthen Jarrs which are made of hard Clay well baked in Furnaces but not glazed which therefore will not keep Water from soaking through them These Jarrs are sent to Candy and other places for Merchandize To preserve their Cheese they sift Earth mix it with Salt and Water then with it Coat over the Cheese which keeps it cool but makes it very Salt A great quantity of this Cheese is yearly carried to Venice It serves the ordinary People who sometimes grate it upon their boyl'd Macaroons and Rice instead of Parmisan Though the Turks drink no Wine yet they take New Wine and boyl it up to a Syrrup which they call Becmez and we call Cute putting it into small Jarrs they drink it mingled with Water for this they account to be no Wine They call new Wine Shira and old Wine Shirab Their Buildings are most of Bricks made of Clay and chopt Straw and dryed in the Sun The Foundations of the Walls are of Stone and Lime Few Houses are above two Story high they are covered over with Pan Tiles There are not many great Houses in all the Morea the best being at Napoli Misitha and Corinth Not above three deserve the Name of Seraglios as they call Palaces Flesh and Fowl is plentiful but Fish is scarce The Air is very temperate there is seldome any Rain from April to August The Winter is also very moderate and lasteth not above two Months any thing Cold There is seldome any Snow in the Plains A Description of the CITY of ATHENS IT is the Head City in the Province of Attica and was once the greatest Mistress of Learning in all Europe The Plain is about Sixteen Miles Long and Five Broad being surrounded with Mountains all but towards the South where it is washed by the Egean Sea The Olive-trees stand so thick to the West of the City that they seem to be a Wood reaching Six Miles in Length and Two in Breadth Whilst I was there a Tahrirge or Surveyor came down from Constantinople to Survey the Place he found above Fifty Thousand Olive-trees in this Plain and other places about the City There are several small Villages where are very pleasant Gardens which afford all sort of Fruit and Saleting having Walks round them covered with Vines of which there are two sorts the one is in the Turkish Language called Barmak Vzumi a long White Grape the other Hevengh Vzumi a round Red Grape both which growing in very large Bunches Of the latter Mr. Vernon weighed one Bunch which was near Four Oaks about Ten Pound English These Red Grapes are not ripe till September then they cut them off and hang them up in their Houses for Winter store Neither of these Two sorts grow
THE PRESENT STATE OF THE MOREA Called Anciently Peloponnesus Which hath been near Two Hundred Years under the Dominion of the Turks and is now very much Depopulated Together with a Description of the City of ATHENS Islands of ZANT STRAFADES and SERIGO Faithfully Described by BERNARD RANDOLPH who resided in those parts from 1671 to 1679. By His Majesties Special Licence LONDON Printed for the Author and are to be sold by Tho. Basset in Fleetstreet John Penn under the Arch in the Temple and John Hill in Exchange-alley 1686. MOREA sometime called PELOPONNESUS and by the Turks MORA THE Isthmus or Hexamile is a Neck of Land which joyneth it to the Continent of Greece and makes it a Peninsula The Length is about ten Miles and the Breadth at the narrowest place not above Six There are the Ruines of Three Castles and a Wall which reacht from the City of Canchrea on the Egean Sea to Lechaeum on the Gulph of Lepanto There is also a Valley where they endeavoured to have both Seas joyn'd CORINTH by the Turks GOVRDESE Is an Ancient City which stands on a Rising Ground about Two Miles from the Sea of the Gulph of Lepanto The Houses are much scattered having many Fields amongst them together with which they take up above three Miles in compass There are many pleasant Gardens with all sorts of Fruits The Houses here are more for Trade and Pleasure than Security most having other Houses up in the Castle which stands upon a Hill To this they retreat when any Pyrats come to annoy them which is often in the Summer time they coming with their Briganteens to the Isthmus which is not above six Miles off The Hill on which the Castle stands is very high it was formerly called the Acro Corinthus and is very steep round about the part towards the West North and North East being almost Perpendicular It is above two Miles from the Town to the Castle The way up is much winding and also steep The Hill is all Stone The Fortifications are very Ancient There are two Walls before you pass into the chiefest part of the Castle The Hill is Walled round at the Top which is above three Miles There are some Guns which are of no other use than to Salute any Great Person or to fire on their Festivals From the Northermost part is one of the most pleasant Prospects the World affords looking into the Gulph of Lepanto Aegean Sea and several Mountains at great distance together with those most pleasant Plains of Corinth and Basilico which abound with Olive-trees Vine-yards and many small Villages In the Castle the Land is good where are many Pasture Fields and plenty of Water so as it may endure a long Siege to the West there is a Spring which gusheth out from the Top of the Hill and falleth down above Fifty Fathome In the Plains of Corinth were the first Currant Vines Planted VOSTIZA Is about twenty Miles within the Mouth of the Gulph of Lepanto Seated on a Rising Ground about a Quarter of a Mile from the Sea-side It is but a small Town without any Fortifications The Plain about it affords Corn Currants and Wine Olive-trees there are not many it lying too open to the Northerly Winds which bring very cold Blasts from the Mountains on the other side the Gulph The Mountains to the South are not above Five Miles from the Town which are very high and continue to the Plains of Basilico betwixt which and the Sea is the Road to Corinth which is very bad way to pass in the Winter there being no cut Rivers and the Floods overflowing make several Waters some above a Mile broad There are no Inhabitants between the Plain of Basilico and this Place nor is the Soil good being most Stony and having many Woods nor is it above two Miles from the Sea to the Mountains in most places There is no Port at Vostiza nor any Shelter for Boats on all this side of the Gulph PARTRASS formerly called PATRA Is an Ancient City It stands about Nine Miles without the Castles at the Mouth of the Gulph of Lepanto on a Hill about a Quarter of a Mile from the Sea The greatest part of the Town runs down towards the South East overlooking the Plain The Houses are thick and are above two Miles about including the Castle which stands to the North above the Town The Castle is well built having very high Walls to the Eastward is a dry Ditch with a low Wall towards the Sea is a round Tower well built high and strong which has Six very long Guns to command the Road but they lye too high to do any harm to Ships except a Shot should chance to hit any of the Masts There are many Ruines about the City To the Eastward is a very great Mountain the Foot of which is about ten Miles from the Town The Plain is very delightsome having many pleasant Gardens with all sorts of Fruits The largest and best Lemons are here of any place in the Morea At the Sea side there are only a few Store-houses About a Quarter of a Mile from them to the South are the Ruines of a Great Church which was Dedicated to St. Andrew There are no Fortifications by the Sea-side nearer than the Castles at the Gulph In the Summer time there is a continual Watch by the Sea-side of both Horse and Foot the Town dividing into several Parties one Party goes down every night scouting along the Marine not suffering any Boats to come a shore till it be Day Before this place was the great fight betwixt the Christians and the Turks in October 1571. when the Christians were Victorious GASTON formerly called ELIS Stands in a very large Plain about Eight Miles from the Bay of Chiarenza The Houses are very much scatter'd without Walls or any Fortification The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Husbandmen The Country about it is very pleasant There are several large Woods about it The Land is most Plow'd and Pasture Land having very few Olive or Fruit trees In the time of War with the Venetians here is usually a Bassha with a Number of Horse who guard the Coast There is no Fortification by the Sea-side from the Gulph of Lepanto to Navareene except the Castle of Arcadia a Mile from the Sea From Partrass to Gaston the way is plain and so continues to Navardene a long the Sea side The Black Mountains and Castle Tornese are left on the Lest hand Castle TORNESE by the Turks called CLOMVTCH Stands on a high Hill on a Promontory the most West of all the Morea It is about Six Miles from the Ruines of Chiarenza and not above Eighteen Miles from the Island of Zante At Sea it seems to be an Island The Castle is well built having the Walls very high but much out of repair It has no Ditch about it nor has it any other Strength than from the Scituation not having above twenty Guns Under the Walls
Miles within the Castles at the Entrance of that Gulph It is scituated on the side of a high and steep Hill having six Walls from the Water-side to the Castle which cross the Hill all which and the Castle are furrounded with a high Wall which runs up at each side of the City The Houses stand scattering between these several Walls but the greatest part are by the Sea-side The Castle stands on the top of the Hill It is kept in very good repair There are about twenty very good Guns The Port is almost Oval having a very narrow Entrance There is a Chain which passes from one side to the other At each side of the Entrance are places for many Guns tho' now they have not above three or four The City is well Peopled being a Nest of Pyrats It yielded to the Turk in the Year 1499 after a long Siege before The Turks having the Castles at the Entrance into the Gulph the Christians had no hopes of Relief so were forced to yield themselves up to their Mercy who gave them free leave to depart In the time of War with the Venetians the Briganteens of this place were a continual Plague to the People of Zant and Ceffalonia A Famous Corsare of this place called Durach Beigh went with Eleven Briganteens and in the Night time Landed at Cherri on the South part of the Island of Zant taking away above 200 Slaves and at Day break appeared before the Port of Zant with Colours flying and firing his Guns gave them notice of his Prize almost as soon as they had the News by Land so got safe to his Port with this great Success The day before was a solemn Feast kept at Cherri and many People came from the City of Zant to pay their Devotions to the Panaija there Since the Peace with the Venetians they go upon the Coast of Apuglia and take poor Countrey-men bringing them to miserable Slavery The City of Lepanto hath the whole trade of the Gulph here being the Customer who takes his Duties on all Boats that go in or out The plains are very pleasant at each side of the City with many Olive-trees and Vine-yards To the Eastward of the City about a quarter of a Mile out of Town there is a great Spring which gusheth out of a Rock at the Foot of a high Mountain it divides into several Streams which makes some Islands these Islands are most cut square which are covered by vast high Plane-trees that stand very thick and so as at Noon-day it is shady all about the Spring In the Summer time here are continually many Turks bringing their Victuals with them and tarry most part of the day About Fifteen Miles from hence upon the same side of the Gulph stands a small Village called Vitrenizza near unto which Sir Giles Eastcourt was Buried travelling in Company with Mr. Francis Vernon and in his way towards Mount Parnassus Sir Giles complained in the Morning but would not be perswaded to tarry at Lepanto hoping it would pass he called to his man to help him down and in less then half an hour he Dyed and was Buried with the assistance of Greek Priests who live in Vitrenizza There are two Castle at the Entrance of the Gulph of Lepanto One is on the Morea shore the other on Rumili the Enterance between them is not above a Mile and a half nor can any Ship pass without danger of being sunk there being several Guns in each Castle which lye level with the Water The Castles also sland very low NATALICO Is a large Town standing in a Bay which hath lying before it two Islands that keep off the main force of the Sea From the Eastern part at the Entrance of the Bay up to the Town is a Pescaria or Fishery it being very shallow and the bottom muddy with Weeds but that part to the Northward of the Town is very deep No Boats of any Burthen can come within a Mile of the Town nor into that part above it They have abundance of Monoxylos or Cannows which pass through narrow Channels with these they carry all their Goods to and from the Town The Inhabitants are Greeks no Turks living with them except some of the Customers Officers the Customer himself living at Mezzalnnzi a place about ten Miles distant upon the side of this Bay Both these Towns are well Peopled Neither of them have any Fortification no Enemy can come by Water to annoy them On the Eastermost Island is a small Chappel called St. Sosti against which Ships do Anchor when they come to load Their Loading is brought from the Town to this Island with Monoxylos from whence it is carried aboard in the Ships Boats THE Inhabitants of the Morea are Turks Greeks Albaneses and T'Zackonians The Turks for the most part live in or under the Command of Castles and at their Farms in the Country where they sometimes are they have Towers built about Thirty Foot high the Door of which is about ten Foot from the ground against which a Wall with Stairs is built about five Foot from the Tower to which Wall a Draw-bridge is let down from before the Door where they enter 't is every Night drawn up to secure them from Pirats some have only a Ladder which they take up into the Tower There is a continual Watch in the Summer time all along the Sea Coasts Of Turks ' there are not above 30000 Inhabitants the Christians are three times as many The Greeks have free Exercise of their Religion Their Priests are very ignorant scarce any understanding the old Greek nor are they so Superstitious in their worship to Pictures as those who live under the Venetians They have several Monasteries Near unto Vostiza is one which is called La Madona di Spiglia it being at the side of a Mountain in a large Cave where there is a Church in which is the Picture of the Virgin MARY which they say was brought hither from Constantinople by Angels at the time when the Turks took that City There was another Madona near Misithra which did many Miracles and every Year great numbers of Greeks flock'd from all parts to pay their Devotions to it The Bassha of the Morea having notice went to see the Ceremony telling the Priests he was desirous to see some Miracle they telling him it had done many he ordered one of his Men to bring him another Picture out of any House which being brought he asked the Priests what difference there was betwixt those two Pictures they answered that that Picture which was in the Church was a most Sacred thing But the Bassha caused a Fire to be made and both Pictures to be put into it saying he would Worship that which escaped the Fire but both were burnt and the Bassha laughing at their Superstition went his way The Christians live much better here than in Asia The vulgar Greek is the general Language and there are few Turks but can
is a small Town where Sir Henry Hide who was sometime Consul for the English Nation in the Morea lived in great State built a small Church and a fair House with many Gardens and Vine-yards about it The Church remains entire The Scituation is very pleasant and was by the Venetians called Bel videre ARCADIA formerly called CYPARISSA Stands in a Great Bay about a Mile from the Sea The Castle and Town stand on scragged Rocks under high Mountains The Castle is much out of repair nor can it be made strong to resist any Enemy the Mountains so overlooking it Before it is a pleasant Plain along the Sea side It has no Harbour for Shipping so that they carry their Oyl and other Merchandize to Navareene In time of Peace with the Venetians they carry them to Zante The Town is small and not much inhabited NAVAREENE formerly called PYLVS Has the best Harbour in all the Morea It is about five Miles long and three broad having an Island lying before it called Spactoria Formerly there where two Entrances into the Harbour but in the Year 1571 when the Christians obtained the great Victory over the Turks before the Gulph of Lepanto the Turks having several Ships and Gallies in the Harbour and fearing the Christians would come in and destroy them stopped up the Entrance to the West of the Island so as only small Boats can now pass and built a very strong Castle to the Eastward called New Navareene which is very well built and commands the Entrance It has about Forty Guns which are most towards the Sea The Land to the South East lies high To the west end of the Harbour stands Old Navareene formerly called Pylus on a high Hill very steep the Walls are very much out of repair great part being fallen down there are very few Inhabitants in it It might be made impregnable no hills being near it I cannot say whether they have any Guns in it This place in other Maps is put down above 20 Miles from the Sea and the Island of Spactoria which makes the Harbour left out MODON Is a very strong Castle which stands on a low Point of Land The Sea washeth the Foundations of the Walls above three Quarters round the Walls are very high The Port is to the Eastward it hath a small Mole to contain two or three Gallies the Port is not secure for Ships South West Winds having too great Power here To the South lies the Island of Sapienza about two Miles from the Point of the Castle To command the Passage a round Tower is built which hath several great Guns that lye equal with the Water Towards the Land by the Port is a dry Ditch five Yards deep and about twenty Yards broad between which and the main Castle is a very strong Battery of about ten Guns There is a dry Ditch and Draw-bridges to pass into the Body of the Castle To the North West is another Battery to secure that Mount where are very good Guns On the Walls towards the Port are three Towers in each of which are small Guns in all they say here are about One hundred Guns The Town stands about half a Mile from the Castle being inhabited by Greeks In the Port is a small Island on which a Battery might be raised and do much harm to the Castle it being as high as the Walls The Castle is above a Mile about CORON Is scituated on a Point of Land which runs out about half a Mile It is much higher towards the Land then at the Point The Sea goes two Thirds about it The Walls are high and their Foundations on scraggy Rocks The Fortification is in much better repair than at Modon Towards the Land the Walls are above Forty Foot high and here is a round Tower above Sixty Foot high in which are several very good Guns to answer the Land which runs higher than the Walls At the Southward part of the Castle the Land goes sloping down towards the Sea side from the Walls of the Castle the ground is not Rocky in that part There are about seventy good Guns about the Wall and several of the Works are Arch'd over To the North is a round Tower which stands low to command the Road. Here is no Harbour for Gallies nor is the Road very secure It had formerly a good Mole which is now sunk which with other Ruines has so choak'd up the harbour that most buoy up their Cables with Cask to keep them from ground CALAMATA formerly called THVRIVM Is at the bottom of the Bay of Coron about a Mile from the Sea The Castle is but small The Town is near a Mile in Circumference well Peopled standing on a rising Ground To the West is a very large and fertile Plain in which are many Greek Villages and two small Towns the one called Cochiuk Magna the other Niscia The latter is most small Islands which little Rivers make Niscia signifying Islands in the Vulgar Greek The Plain about Calamata towards the Sea is all planted with Vineyards Olive Figg and Mulberry-trees On the West part of the Bay by the Sea side are the Ruines of Old Messina which the Lacedemonians besieged with a powerful Army The Messineses seeing they were not able to withstand their Enemies Power fired their City imbarked themselves and went to Sicilia where they built the present City of Messina MESITHA formerly called LACEDEMON Is scituated at the side of a large Plain on a rising Ground about twenty five Miles from the Sea side having very high Mountains all to the West of the Plain The Castle stands to the West on a very high Hill steep on the West and South part where it is inaccessable but sloping to the North having two old Walls which cross the Hill from the North to the South dividing the Hill almost into three Parts The way into the Castle is very difficult The Walls of the Castle are well built but very old It is near half a Mile about having two Gates to be pass'd The Town is large and is esteemed the second for bigness in all the Morea yet Patrass hath more houses The Ruines about it are very great and towards the South they reach above four Miles having in some places the Foundation of a thick Wall which they say was the Walls of Sparta To the North about a Quarter of a Mile from the Town is a great and high Building which they say was an Arch of an Aquaeduct The Plain is very pleasant full of small Villages Olive and Mulberry trees This Place and Calamata make more Silk than all the other parts of the Morea The River which runs through the Plain is now called Vasili Pottamo In Winter it spreads very large but in Summer towards the City is almost dry Tho' the City stands remote from the Sea and free from dangers that ensue from thence yet the Manjotts are a People apt to prey upon them MAINA which some write BRAZZO di
in Vineyards The Vine-yards are planted most betwixt the City and the Sea The City is now not above Three Miles about Being Four Miles from Porto Lion which formerly was call Pirea having a Castle to the South The Houses are better built here than in any part of the Morea most having little Courts with high Walls in which are Arches with Marble Pillars few Houses above Two Story high They also patcht up with the Ruines of old Palaces and in most Walls are abundance of old Inscriptions The Governors are in the same manner as they be in other Cities under the Turks The Greeks live much better here than in any other part of Turky Scio excepted being a small Common-wealth amongst themselves They choose eight Magistrates who adjust all differences and appear in all Publick Matters Their Protector at the Port is the Grand Seigniors Chief Eunuch who hath the disposing of that Government The City is not Walled about but has Gates at the Streets end which every Night are shut to keep out Privateers who often Land and do much mischief Here is an Arch-Bishop whose House stands to the South West of the Town near unto the Mount Ariopagus He lives in great esteem amongst them Below his Palace towards the North stands intire the Temple of Theseus which is a fair and large Building all of White Marble having a Portico about it with Pillars The Temple is Seventy Three Foot long and Twenty Six in Breadth The Length of the Portico which goes round it is One Hundred Twenty Three Foot It is now a Greek Church and Dedicated to St. George To the South East part of the Castle are Seventeen Marble Pillars being the remainder of One Hundred and Twenty on which the Emperor Adrian had his Palace And upon some of the Pillars which stand towards the East is to be seen part of the Foundation These Pillars are of a pure White Marble with blewish Waves Schollop-work being Fifty Foot in heighth and Nineteen and a half round The Ground is very even about them which they say was formerly Paved with Marble Close to these Pillars Eastward is a square Piece of Ground which is Walled in with a low Wall being Green It is kept very smooth and free of Stones at the South End close to the Wall is a place raised with Two Steps about Two Foot high almost in Form of a Throne In the time of their Byram the Turks come to this place where their Emam or Priest sitting on the raised place Preacheth to them shewing them the Vanity of the World the Greatness of their Emperour and the Valour of the Ottoman Forces concluding with a Prayer for the Grand Seignior which is answered with Three Shouts from the Auditors with a loud Voice crying Amen The Castle stands on a Rock which is high and steep having but one way up and three Gates to pass through into the Body of it The Walls are much out of repair The Scituation makes it strong This Castle stood almost in the middle of Old Athens The Place most worth Observation in it is the Temple of Minerva which remains entire being esteemed by all who have seen it to be one of the Most Glorious Buildings in Europe It is all pure White Marble The Length of the Body of the Temple is One Hundred Sixty Eight English Feet and the Breadth Seventy One There are Seventeen Pillars at each Side and Eight at the Front The Circuit of the Pillars are Nineteen Foot and a Half The Length of the whole Temple Two Hundred and Thirty Feet The Temple is very dark having only some Lights to the Eastward The Greeks did Consecrate and Dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin Since that the Turks have perverted it with their Worship The Turks have White-wash'd the Inside notwithstanding it is all of pure Marble In and about Athens are Two Hundred Greek Churches most of which have been Temples but not one quarter of them are now used In the Plain and on most of the Hills there are many small Chappels The Ruines are above Six Miles about of which the Reader may have full satisfaction by reading the Travels of Sir George Wheeler who hath given a large and true Account of this City Some Geographers call it Settines which name was never known to the Inhabitants the Turks call it Atinna and the Greeks Athine The Air is very good The Soyl rich It hath a River to the South close by the Ruines of Adrians Palace called Illisus or Calleroy which is almost choaked up and in Summer is dry The Harbour of Porto Lione is very secure from the danger of any Wind but there is no Fortification so that it is frequented by Pyrats In all the Villages and Country about Athens the Inhabitants are most Albaneses and they are here more populous than in the Morea It affords the same Commodities and all Provision is as reasonable but their Wines in general are not so good The Island of ZANT formerly called ZACYNTHVS Is under the Venetians lying about 15 miles from the South West point of the Morea The West part is all Mountains and to the North East is another Mountain called Scopo between which it is very low land so as from the Southward at Sea it appears to be two Islands The chief Road hath the name of the Island The Town stretcheth it self above a mile along that Bay it is well built with Free-stone but the Houses are low by reason of the Earth-quakes which are very frequent To the West over the Town stands the Castle on a high and steep Hill and is a small City in it self The Wall is above a mile about The Governour is a Noble-man of Venice There is an Italian Bishop and three Italian Churches But the Greeks who are the chief Inhabitants have a Proto Papa and all Festivals are observed according to the old stile In the Island is above 30 Villages and more than 60000 Souls The Corn which grows here will not suffice above three months but in time of Peace with the Turks they are well supplied from the Morea and in time of War Corn is brought from Apuglia and other parts in the Gulph of Venice One year with another it produceth near 10000 Tun of Wine 200 Tun of Oyl and 2000 Tun of Currants and may be compared for pleasantness and richness with any Island of its bigness in the World The Currants grow on Vines and spread themselves on the ground like other Grapes In July they gather them and spread them on a very smooth part of ground where they lye until they are well dry'd then they fall off from the Stalks so are carry'd and put into Ware-houses where they are kept till the Merchants buy them STRAFADA Islands They are two small Islands which lye about 20 miles from Zant and 30 from the Morea On the bigger is a Monastery well built which hath a high Tower There is about 40 Priests of the Order of St. Basil They work the ground and have all sorts of Fruits and Sallating but their supply of Bread Oyl and Wine is brought them from Zant where they have possessions They never eat Flesh When any Pyrats come to molest them they shut themselves up in the Tower of the Monastery There is no Harbour for Ships so as seldom any come to trouble them PRODINO and SAPIENZA Islands Are not Inhabited but afford secure Harbours for Shipping especially the latter where the Venetians often lye to look out for Pyrats of Barbary who use to cruise about Navareene and Modon SERIGO formerly called CYTHERA Is under the Venetians and withstood the Turks Forces which Landed there several times the Inhabitants who are Greeks retired to the Castle which is strong yet the Turks might have taken it but thought it not worth the loss of his men there being no good Harbour for Shipping nor is the Land fruitful being most Stony The Governour is a Noble-man of Venice FINIS