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A13508 Taylor his trauels: from the citty of London in England, to the citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes, his obseruations there, and his returne from thence: how he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue, through Bohemia, Saxony, Anhalt, the bishoprick of Madeberge, Brandenberge, Hamburgh, and so to England. With many relations worthy of note. By Iohn Taylor. Taylor, John, 1580-1653. 1620 (1620) STC 23802; ESTC S118294 16,091 34

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Taylor his Trauels From the Citty of London in England to the Citty of Prague in Bohemia The manner of his abode there three weekes his obseruations there and his returne from thence How he past 600 miles downe the riuer of Elue through Bohemia Saxony Anhalt the Bishoprick of Madeberge Brandenberge Hamburgh and so to England With many relations worthy of note By Iohn Taylor LONDON Printed by Nicholas Okes for Henry Gosson and are to bee sold by Edward Wright 1620. The Right Hon. ble Algernon Capell Earl of Essex Viscount Maldon Baron Capell of Hadham 1701 Reader take this in your way A Pamphlet Reader from the presse is hurld That hath not many fellowes in the world The maner's cōmon though the matter 's shallow And 't is all true which makes it want a fellow And because I would not haue you either guld of your mony or deceiued in expectation I pray you take notice of my plaine dealing for I haue not giuen my booke aswelling bumbasted title of a promising inside of newes therefore if you looke for any such matter from hence take this warning hold fast your mony and lay the booke downe yet if you do buy it I dare presume you shall find somewhat in it worth part of your mony the troth is that I did chiefely write it because I am of much acquaintance and cannot passe the streets but I am continually stayed by one or other to know what newes so that sometimes I am foure houres before I can go the length of too paire of butts where such non-sence or sencelesse questions are propounded to me that calles many seeming wise mens wisedoms in question drawing aside the curtaines of their vnderstandiug and laying their ignorance wide open First Iohn Easie takes me and holds mee fast by the fist halfe an houre and will needes torture some newes out of me from Spinola whom I was neuer neere by 500 miles for hee is in the Pallatinate country and I was in Bohemia I am no sooner eased of him but Gregory Gandergoose an Alderman of Gotham catches me by the goll demaunding if Bohemia bee a great towne and whether there be any meare in it and whether the last fleet of shipps be ariued there his mouth being stop'd a third examines mee boldly what newes from Vienna where the Emperours army is what the Duke of Bauaria doth what is become of Count Buquoy how fares all the Englishmen Where lies the King of Bohemiaes forces what Bethlem Gabor doth what tydings of Dampeier and such a tempest of inquisition that it almost shakes my patience in pieces To ease my selfe of all which I was inforced to set pen to paper let this poore pamphlet my harrald or nuntius trauell talke whilst I take my ease with silence Thus much I dare affirme that whosoeuer hee or they bee that do scatter any scandalous speeches against the plenty in Bohemia of all manner of needfull things for the sustenance of man and beasts of the which there is more aboundance then euer I saw in any place else or whatsoeuer they bee that report any ill successe on the Kings party this little booke and I the Author doth proclaime and proue them false lyers and they are to be suspected for coyning such falshoods as no well-willers to the Bohemian prosperity One thing I must entreate the Readers patience in reading one hundred lines wherein I haue kept a filthy stirre about a beastly fellow who was at my going from England a piece of a Graues-end Constable at which time hee did mee such wrong as might haue drawne my life in question for hee falsly sayd that I would haue fired their Towne I did promise him a ierke or two of my penne at my returne which now I haue performed not out of any mallice but because I would bee as good as my word with him Thus crauing you to reade if you like and like as you list I leaue you a booke much like a pratling Gossip full of many words to small purpose Yours as you are mine Iohn Taylor TAYLORS TRAVELS FROM THE CITTY of London in England to the Citty of Prague in Bohemia I Come from Bohem yet no newes I bring Of busines 'twixt the Keysar and the king My Muse dares not ascend the lofty staires Of state or write of Princes great affaires And as for newes of battells or of War Were England from Bohemia thrice as far Yet we do know or seeme to know more heere Then was is or will euer be knowne there At Ordinaries and at Barbers shopps There tydings vented are as thick as hopps How many thousands such a day were slaine What men of note were in the battell ta'ne When where and how the bloody fight begun And how such sconces and such townes were won How so and so the armies brauely met And which side glorious victory did get The month the weeke the day the very houre And time they did oppose each others powre These things in England prating fooles do chatter When all Bohemia knowes of no such matter For all this summer that is gone and past Vntill the first day of October last The armies neuer did together meete Nor scarce their eie sight did each other greet The fault is neither in the foote or horse Of the right valiant braue Bohemian force From place to place they daily seeke the foe They march and remarch watch ward ride run goe And grieuing so to waste the time away Thirst for the hazard of a glorious day But still the enemy doth play bopeepe And thinkes it best in a whole skin to sleepe For neither martiall pollicy or might Or any meanes can draw the foe to fight And now and then they conquer spoile and pillage Some few thatcht houses or some pelting village And to their trenches run away againe Where they like foxes in their holes remaine Thinking by lingring out the warres in length To weaken and decay the Beamish strength This is the newes which now I meane to booke He that will needes haue more must needes go looke Thus leauing warres and matters of high state To those that dare and knowes how to relate I 'le onely write how I past heere and there And what I haue obserued euery where I 'le truely write what I haue heard and eyed And those that will not so be satisfied I as I meete them will some tales deuise And fill their cares by word of mouth with lies THe month that beares a mighty Emp'rours name Augustus hight I passed downe the streame Friday the fourth Iust sixteene hundred twenty Full moone the signe in Piscis that time went I The next day being saturday a day Which all greate Brittaine well remember may When all with thankes do annually combine Vnto th' Almighty maiesty diuine Because that day in a most happy season Our Soueragne was preseru'd from Gouries treason Therefore to Churches people do repaire And offer sacrifice of praise and praire
cask combine One hath no preaching t'other hath no wine And now the vse they put it to is this 'T is shew'd for mony as the Chappell is From Groning wee trauelled to a towne called Ashers Leauen to Ashleauen to Kinderne to Hall and so to Leipzig which is one of the chiefest townes in Saxony being famous for a yearely Mart that is yearely held there whereto Merchants and other people from the most part of Christendom haue annual concourse in this towne we stayd two dayes and taking our leaue then of some English Merchants who vsed vs kindly we there would haue hired a coach or waggon to Prague but all the Saxon coach-men and carters were afraid to looke vpon any part of Bohemia because their Duke is a profest enemy in armes against the King of Beame so that we were forced to hire a fellow with a wheelebarrow two dayes to carry our cloakes swords guns pistolls and other apparell and luggage which were our necessaries to a towne called Boorne to Froburge and so to another towne called Penigh where wee cashierd our one-wheel'd coach and hired a cart with two which carried both vs and our baggage to Chemnizt another towne in Saxony from whence to a place called Shop wee were faine to bee our owne sumpter horses walking on foote to the last towne in Saxony called Marienberg From thence passing vp and downe inaccessable mountaines we came to a wood which parts Bohemia from Saxony on the west which wood is called by the people of those parts the Beamer Wolts or Wolt and is in breadth to English miles and in length further then I know how to describe truely but this much of it I dare affirme that it is a naturall impregnable wall to the kingdome of Bohem which kingdome is all incompast round with woods and mountaines so that there is no passage on that side of it for any army to enter into it with munition and artillery all the wayes being vneuen and the mountaine tops all boggs mosses and quagmires that great ordnance or any heauy cariage either of horse cart or waggon will sinke and be lost Besides there are numbers past numbring of Firre trees many standing and such store fallen of themselues that any passage might easily be stopped by laying them crosse the way And of all my iourny the trauell through that dismall wood was the most heauy vnto mee for the trees grew so thicke and so high that the sunne was obscured and the day seemed night in some places the way paued with swimming trees 2 miles together on the tops of hills which now and then I slipping besides sunke to the middle in a quagmire When wee had thus footed it and trauelled past the hills and woods being at the least 4 houres toyle and that wee might looke downe the mountaines into the fruitfull land of Bohem neuer did sight more reioyce vs the lower hills being all full of Vineyards and the vallies corne and pasture not an English mile distance but a village euery way and twenty thirty or forty reekes or stacks of corne which their barnes cannot hold in the space of euery houres iourny in a word euery thing that belonged to the vse and commodity of man was and is there and al the delightfull obiects to satisfie euery sence is there abundantly so that nature seemed to make that Country her storehouse or granary for there is nothing wanting except mens gratitude to God for such blessings The first night we lodged there at a pretty towne called Comoda which towne by negligence and occasion of fire had fifty houses burnt two dayes before our comming thither it being eleuen dutch miles from Prague There we hired a wagon 7 dutch miles to a towne called Slowne from whence we walked on foote a long 16 English miles to Prague which long looked for the Citty wee could not see vntill we came within an houres trauell of it within halfe a dutch mile is a fearefull place being frequented with inhumaine and barbarous murderers that assault trauellers first shooting and murdring them and after searching their pockets where if they haue mony or not all is one it is but so many slaine for these villaines haue a wood and a deepe valley to shelter themselues in that they are hardly taken afterwards but if they chance at any time to be but apprehended they are racked and tortured to make them confesse and afterwards their executions are very terrible But I thanke God wee past that place and many other as dangerous as that where some were robbed and murdered as report told vs both before vs behind vs and on each side and we saw in our iourny aboue seauen score gallowses and wheeles where thieues were hanged some fresh and some halfe rotten and the carkases of murtherers broken limb after limb on the wheeles and yet it was our happines onely to see the dead villaines and escape the liuing I came into Prague on thurseday the seauenth of September whither if I had come but the friday before I had seene a most fearefull execution of two notorious offenders the manner how with their faults as it was truely related to me by English Gentlemen that saw it I thinke it not much impertinent to relate The one of them being taken apprehended and racked for ripping vp aliue a woman with child and for taking the infant out of her body did sowe a liuing puppy into her belly all which hee confessed hee did to make properties for wichcraft and beeing further tortured hee confessed when and where hee had committed 35. murthers more the other in respect of him was but a petty offender for he in all his life time had murthered but 14. For the which execrable facts their deserued executions were as followeth First they were brought out of the Iayle naked from the girdle vpward and so being bound fast on high in a cart that the spectators might see them then the Hangman hauing a panne of coales neere him with red hot pincers nip'd off the nipple of one brest then he tooke a knife and giues him a slash or cut downe the backe on one side from the shoulder to the waste and presently gaue him such another slash three inches from the first then on the top he cut the slashes into one and presently taking pincers tooke hold of the crosse cut and tore him downe like a Girse below the middle letting it hang downe behind him like a belt after which he tooke his burning pincers and pluck'd off the tops of his fingers of one hand then passing to another place of the Towne his other nipple was plucked off the other side of his back so cut and mangled which they call by the name of rimming if it had beene riming I would neuer haue written but in prose his other fingers nip'd off then passing further all his toes were nip'd off with the burning pincers after which he was enforced to come out of the cart and goe
on foote vp a steepe hill to the Gallowes where he was broken with a wheele aliue one bone after another beginning at his legs and ending with his neck and last of all quartered and layd on the wheele on a high post till Crowes Rauens or consuming time consume him This was the manner of both their executions but I speake but of the greatest murtherer particularly because it is reported that all these torments neuer made him once to change countenance or to make any signe or action of griefe to call to God for mercy or to entreate the people to pray for him but as if he had beene a senselesse stocke or stone he did most scornefully and as it were in disdaine abide it whilst the other villaine did crye rore and make lamentation calling vpon God often the difference was not much in their liues and manner of their deaths but I am perswaded the odds was great in their dying The City of Prague is almost circular or round being diuided in the middle by the riuer of Moldoue ouer which is a faire stone Bridge of 600. paces ouer and at each end a strong gate of stone there is said to be in it of Churches and Chappels 150. for there are great numbers of Catholiques who haue many Chappels dedicated to sundry Saints and I was there at foure seueral sorts of diuine exercises viz. at good sermons with the Protestants at Masse with the Papists at a Lutherans preaching and at the Iewes Synagog three of which I saw and heard for curiosity and the other for edification The Iewes in Prague are in such great numbers that they are thought to be of men women and children betwixt 50. or 60000. who doe all liue by brocage and vsury vpon the Christians and are very rich in money and Iewels so that a man may see tenne or twelue togither of them that are accounted worth 20. 30. or 40000. l. apiece and yet the slaues goe so miserably attired that 15. of them are not worth the hanging for their whole wardrobes The Castle where the King and Queene doe keepe their Court is magnificent and sumptuous in building strongly situated and fortified by nature and art being founded on a high hill so that at pleasure it keepes the towne in command and it is much more spacious in roomes for receipt in gardens and orchards then the Towre of London I was in it dayly the space of 20 dayes and saw it royally graced with the presence of a gracious King Queen who were honorably attēded by a gallant courtly traine of Lords and Ladies and Gentles of the high Dutch and Bohemians and where was free bountiful entertainment to strangers in abundance I must euer humbly and thankfully acknowledge the Queenes Maiesties goodnesse towards mee whose vndeserued fauours were helpful vnto me both there and in my tedious iorny home-ward Moreouer there I saw and had in mine armes the King and Queenes yongest son Prince Robert who was borne there on the 16 of December last a goodly child as euer I saw of that age whom with the rest I pray God to blesse to his glory and his Parents ioy and comfort There for a token I did thinke it meete To take the shoes from off this Prince his feete I doe not say I stole but I did take And whilst I liue I 'le keepe them for his sake Long may his Grace liue to be stylde a man And then I 'le steale his bootes too if I can The shoes were vpright shoes and so was he That wore them from all harme vpright and free He vsde them for their vse and not for pride He neuer wrong'd them or ne're trod a side Lambskin they were as white as Innocence True patternes for the footsteps of a Prince And time will come as I do hope in God He that in childhood with these shooes was shod Shall with his manly feete once trample downe All Antichristian foes to his renowne The citty of Prague hath in it by reason of the wars thrice the number of it's owne inhabitants and yet for all that victuals is in such great plenty that 6 men cannot eate three halfe penny worth of bread and I did buy in the market a fat goose well roast for the vallew of nine pence English and I and my brother haue dined there at a Cookes with good roasted meate bread and beere so that we haue bin satisfied and left for the vallew of fiue pence a good turky there may bee bought for two shillings and for fresh fish I neuer saw such store for in one market day I haue knowne in Prague 2000 carps besides other fishes which carps in London are fiue shillings a piece and there they were for eight pence or ten pence at the most so that one of their fresh fish markets heere were worth at the least 5 or 600 pounds and as for all other manner of wild foule they are there in satiety besides their fruites are in such abundance that I boght a basket of grapes of the quantity of halfe a pecke for a penny farthing a hat-ful of faire peaches for as much pickled cowcumbers I haue bought a pecke for three pence and muskmellons there hath bin cast fiue or six carts load of them in one day to their hoggs As concerning the dyet that is in the Kings armies I could neuer yet heare any man complaine of want but that it is more plentifull then in the citty the greatest scarcity hath bin to some sicke souldiers who being not able to march with the leaguers by reason of their weakenes they haue bin left amongst the Boores or husbandmen in the next villages where their languages not vnderstood their succour hath bin but small but for all this in the campe hath euer bin a continuall cheapnes of all things the King most duely paying his souldiers at the end of euery month hauing in his great leguer vnder the conduct of the Princes of Hollock and Anhalt of foote and horse 43000 and at the least of carts and waggons to carry prouision and baggage for the army to the number of 18000. In his little leaguer vnder the leading of Count Mansfelt there are of foote and horse 7000 besides carrs and waggons for carriage and yet for these great numbers of men and beastes there is food in all abundance In the campe with Graue Mansfelt is the Brittane regiment vnder their Colonel Sir Andrew Gray Knight and in Prague I met with many worthy Gentlemen and souldiers which were there sicke as the worthy Captaine Bushell Lieutenaut Grimes Lieuetenant Langworth Ancient Galbreath Ancient Vandenbrooke Maister Whitney Maister Blundell and others all which did most courteously entertaine me vnto whom I must euer rest thankful and they do affirme that now it hath pleased God to grant their souldiers recouery that they do hope euery Brittaine souldier doth retaine more good spirit then 3 enemies of what nation soeuer Thus hauing shewed part of