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A13781 A true and strange discourse of the trauailes of two English pilgrimes what admirable accidents befell them in their iourney to Ierusalem, Gaza, Grand Cayro, Alexandria, and other places: also what rare antiquities, monuments, and notable memories (concording with the ancient remembrances in the holy Scriptures), they saw in Terra Sancta, with a perfect description of the old and new Ierusalem, and scituation of the countries about them. A discourse of no lesse admiration; then well worth the regarding: written by one of them, on the behalfe of himselfe, and his fellowe pilgrime. Timberlake, Henry, d. 1626. 1603 (1603) STC 24079; ESTC S119224 21,670 30

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sometimes sixe some but two before and one behind and seldome very fewe or any in their right shape Afterward when the people come to receiue that before had brought in the Furner giues to euery one ratably according as the Furnace yeelded reseruing to himselfe the tenth for his labour Thus haue you the secret of hatching Chickens by heate artificiall at the towne of Philbits in the land of Gozan which I thinke were in vaine to be practised in England because the ayre there is hardly ten daies together clarified neither is there any Camels dunge though they haue dunge of other beasts euery way as hote therefore when the Sunne is in Cancer Leo or Virgo you may if you please trie what can be done Pexhaps some will thinke this to be a lie or fable but to such I answere I can vrge their credenceno furder then my faith and truth may perswade them and if thereon they will not beleeue me let them take paines to make their owne eies a witnesse and when they haue paid as dearely as I haue doone for the sight of this and other things cost me an hundred Markes in fiftie daies their iudgement will be better confirmed But now to my iourney toward the desert of Arabia which I must passe before I can come to the Holy land The 13. of Marche we departed from the towne of Philbits trauailing all night in companie with the Carauan of Damasco and the 14. at nine of the clocke we pitched our tents at Boharo in the land of Gozan From thence wee departed that night and the 15. at night we pitched at Salhia which is to the Eastward of the land of Gozan and stands on the borders of the Arabian deserts Here we staied two daies for feare of the wild Arabes and departed thence the 17. we passed that night ouer a great bridge vnder which the salt water standeth This water comes out of the Sea from the partes of Damieta and by mens hands was cut out of that place some hundred and fiftie miles into the maine land by Ptolomeus king of Egypt who purposed to bring the Red-sea and the Mediterranean all into one but when he foresaw that if he had gone through with this worke all his countrie had bin quite drowned he gaue it ouer builded a bridge ouer for passage This place parteth Arabia and Egypt and no sooner had we past this bridge but we were set vpon by the wild Arabes and notwithstanding our great companie for we were more then a thousand persons a Camell laden with Calicoes was taken from vs foure of our men hurt and one of them mortally wounded so away ran the Arabes with the preye we being vnable to helpe it because it was night The 18. in the morning we pitched by a well of brackish water but I forgot to tell you that my fellow Pilgrime M. Iohn Burrell escaped very narrowly in the last nights bickering Here we rested our selues till three of the clocke in the afternoone call●d Lasara for the Arabians and Egyptians diuide the day but into foure partes then we departed and pitched the next morning at a Castell in the deserts called Catga This is one of the three castels which the Turkes kept in the deserts to defend altrauailers from the wild Arabes wherefore here we pay a certaine tare vz. 60. pieces of siluer of two pence a piece value for each man or boy and 76. pieces for a Camell laden and 14. for a Mule Hauing paid this imposition we departed and pitched againe the 19. at another brackish well from whence setting onward we pitched the 20. of March at the second Castell called Arris kept also by the Turkes in the said deserts where our taxe was but 20. pieces of siluer for each passenger and 30. for a Camell From thence we were guided by many Soldiors to the third Castell called Raphaell making one long iourney of 24. houres together Here it is said that the Kings of Egypt and Iudea fought many great battailes which to me seemed very vnlikely because there is nothing to releeue an armie withall except sand and salt water There wee paid but ten pieces each passenger and 20. for a beast so departing thence the 22. in y e morning wee pitched at Gaza in Palestine a goodly fruitfull countrey and here we were quitted of all the deserts In this towne I sawe the place where as they told vs Sampson puld downe the two Pillers and slewe the Philistines and surely it appeares to be the same towne by reason of the scituation of the countrey here we paied 22. pieces for each beast and 10. each passenger Hence we departed the 22. of March and pitched at a place called in Arabian Canuie but by the Christians termed Bersheba being vpon the borders of Iudea where we paid but 2. pieces of siluer each one and 4. for a beast Departing hence the 23. in the morning we pitched our Tents vpon a Greene close vnder the walles of Ramoth in Gilead there I stayed all that day and wrote eight Letters for Englād by the forenamed Carauan which went for Damasco to be conueyed to Constantinople and so for England The next day being the 24. in the morning I with the other Christians set towards Ierusalem and the great Carauan went their way for Damasco but wee pitched short that night at a place called in Arabian Cudeche laneb being 16. miles from Hebron where the Sepulchre of our forefather Abraham is and fiue little miles from Ierusalem From thence we departed in the morning being our Lady day in Lent and at 9. of the clocke before noone I sawe the cittie of Ierusalem when kneeling downe and saying the Lords prayer I gaue God most hartie thankes for conducting mee thither to behold so holy a place with mine eies wherof I had read so often before Cōming within a furlong of the gates I with my cōpanion M. Iohn Burrell went singing and praising God till we came to the west gate of the Cittie and there we staied because it is not lawfull for a Christian to enter vnadmitted My companiō aduised me to say I was a Greeke onely to auoid going to Masse but I not hauing the Greeke tongue refused so to doo telling him euen at the gates entraunce that I would neither denie my Countrie nor Religion whereupon being demaunded who wee were M. Burrell answering in the Greeke tongue told them that he was a Greeke and I an Englishman This gaue him admittance to the Greeke Patriarke but I was seazed on and cast in prison before I had staied a ful houre at the gate for the Turkes flatly denied that they had euer heard either of my Queene or Countrey or that she paied them any tribute The Peter Guardian who is there defender of all Christian Pilgrimes and the principall procurer of mine imprisonment because I did not offer my selfe vnder his protection but confidently stood to be rather protected vnder the Turke thē the
Pope made the Turke so much mine enemie that I was reputed to be a spie and so by no meanes could I get release from the dungeon Now giue me fauour to tell you how it pleased hope that very day to deliuer mee and graunt my passe as a Protestant without yeelding to any other ceremonie then cariage of a waxe candle only farre beyond mine owne best hope or expectation Here let me remember you how I was stayed at Ramoth in Gilead where I wrote the eight Letters for Englād by the Carauan of Damasco hauing so good leysure I went to a Fountaine to washe my fowle linnen and being earnest about my businesse there suddenly came a Moore vnto me who taking my clothes out of my hands and calling me by my name said he would help me You doubt not but this was some amazement to mee to heare such a man call me by my name and in place so farre distant from my freends countrie and acquaintance which he perceiuing boldly thus spake in the Franke tongue Why Captaine I hope you haue not forgotten me for it is not yet fortie dayes since you set me a land at Alexandria with the rest of those passengers you brought from Argier in your ship called the Troyan and here is another in this Carauan whom you likewise brought in companie with you and would not be a little glad to see you I demaunded of him if he dwelt there he answered me no but both he and his fellow were going in the Carauan to Damasco which place they call Sham and thence to Beggdatt which we call Babylon thence to Mecha to make a Hadgee for so they are called when they haue bin at Mecha moreouer he told me that he dwelt in the Cittie of Fesse in Barbarie This man in my mind God sent to be the meanes of mine immediate deliuerie For after I had takē good notice of him I well remembred that I saw him in my ship though one man among 300. is not very readily knowne for so many brought I from Argier into those partes of different Nations as Turkes Moores Iewes and Christians I desired this man to bring me to the sight of his other companiō which hauing washed my linnen he did him I knew very readily These two concluded that the one of them would depart thence with the Carauan and the other goe along with me to Ierusalē which was the Moore before remēbred such kind care had the Infidel of me as he would not leaue me vnaccompanied in this strange Land which I cannot but impute to Gods especiall prouidence for my deliuerance out of prison else had I bin left in most miserable case When this Moore sawe mee thus imprisoned in Ierusalem my dungeon being right against the Sepulcher of Christ albeit he wept yet he had me be of good comfort Away went he to the Bashawe of the citie and to the Saniack before whome he tooke his oath that I was a Mariner of a Shippe which had brought 250. or 300. Turkes and Moores into Egypt from Argier and Tunis their iourney being vnto Mecha This Moore in regard he was a Muzzle-man preuailed so wel with them that returning with sixe Turkes back to the prison he called me to the doore and there saide vnto me that if I would goe to the house of the Pater Guardian and yeeld my selfe vnder his protection I should be enforced to no religion but mine owne except it were to carie a candle to the which I willingly condescended So paying the charges of the prison I was presently deliuered and brought to the Guardians Monastery where the Pater comming to me tooke mee by the hand and bad me welcome maruailing I would so much erre from Christianitie as to put my selfe rather vnder the Turkes then his protection I told him what I did was because I would not goe to Masse but keepe my conscience to my selfe He replyed that many Englishmen had beene there but being Catholiques went to Masse telling the Turks at the Gates entrance that they were Frenchmen for the Turkes knowe not what you meane by the worde Englishman aduising me further that when any of my Countreymen vndertooke the like trauaile at the gates of Ierusalem they should tearm themselues either Frenchmen or Fritons because they are well knowne to the Turkes This or such like conference past betweene vs also how old our Queenes Maiestie was and what was the reason she gaue nothing to the maintenance of the Holy Sepulcher as well as other Christian Kings and Princes did with diuers other triuial questions whereto I answered accordingly The day being spent euen to twi-light master Iohn Burrel who passed for a Greeke without any trouble came in vnto vs being neuerthelesse constrained to this Monasterie or else he might not stay in the citie for such sway doe the Papistes cary there that no Christian stranger can haue admittance there but he must be protected vnder them or not enter the citie Master Burrell and I being together in the Court of the Monastery twelue fat-fed Fryers came foorth vnto vs each of them carying a waxe candle burning and two spare-candles beside the one for master Burrel the other for me Another Frier brought a great Bason of warme water mingled with Roses and other sweete flowers and a Carpet being spread on the ground and Cushions in Chaires set orderly for vs the Pater Guardian came and set vs downe giuing each of vs a Candle in our hands then came a Frayer and puld off our hose and setting the Bason on the Carpet washed our feete So soone as the Fryer began to wash the twelue Fryers began to sing cōtinuing so till our feete were washed which being done they went along singing we with the Guardian came to a Chappell in the Monastery where one of them began an Oration in forme of a Sermon tending to this effect how meritorious it was for vs to visit the Holy land see those sanctified places where our Sauiours feete had trode The Sermon being ended they brought vs to a chamber where our supper was prepared there we fed somwhat fearefully in regard y ● strange cates haue as strange qualities but committing our selues to God their outward-appearing Christian kindnesse we fell to hartily supt very bountifully afterward praysing God were lodged decently Thus much for my first daies entertainement in Ierusalem which was the 25. day of March 1601. being our Lady day in Lent Now followes what the Fryers afterward shewed mee being thereto appointed by the Pater Guardian Earely the next morning we arose and hauing saluted the Pater Guardian he appointed vs seauen Friers and a Trouchman so foorth we went to see all the holy places in the citie which were to be seene except those in Sepulchra sancta for that required a whole daies work afterward and at euery place where we came we kneeled downe and saide the Lords prayer The first place of note that the Fryers
euen from the top to the two third partes downward as it were through the brow and breast of y ● Rocke nor is the rent small but so great in some places that a man might easily hide himselfe in it and so groweth downeward lesse and lesse 9. The place where the three Maries annointed Christ after he was dead 10. where he appeared to Mary Magdalen in the likenesse of a Gardiner and hence we came to the Sepulcher it selfe which is the last place where they vse any prayers from whence I went to see the Tombes of Baldwin and Godfrey of Bulloigne and returning thence backe to the Sepulcher I measured the distaunce betweene place and place spending thus the time from fiue of the clocke before night when I went in vntill the next day at eleuen of the clocke at my comming foorth writing downe all things which I thought note-worthie My companion M. Iohn Burrell and I beyng thus come foorth of the Church we went to the Pater Guardians to dinner where we heard tidings that fiue other Englishmē were arriued at the citie gates directing towards Alepo Their names were M. William Bedle preacher to the English merchants which are Liegers at Alepo M. Edward Abbot seruaunt to the right Worshipfull sir Iohn Spenser M. Geffrey Kirbie seruant to the worshipfull M. Paule Banning and liegers for them in Alepo two other young men the one called Iohn Elkynes the other Iasper Tymne These fiue hearing of my being there came all to the house and these though they sawe not mine imprisonment nor were with me at the sight of those things in and about Ierusalem can witnesse that they were acquainted therewith at the gates and estfice the other truthes beside These men as also my companion M. Iohn Burrell I left behind me in Ierusalem departing thence to see other places in the countrie of Palestine but let me first tel you what I obserued in the cities scituation b●cause I was enfourmed before I came to see it that it was all ruined albeit on the sight thereof I found it otherwise hauing a little Compasse about me to set such places as I could easily come by Understand then first of all that the very heart of the olde citie was seated on mount Sion and mount Moria to the north part whereof was mount Caluarie without the gates of the old citie about a stones cast and no further But now I finde this newe citie scituated so farre to the North part that it is almost quite off of moūt Sion but yet not off mount Moria which was betweene mount Sion and mount Caluary so that now vndoubtedly the South walles of the citie are placed on the north foote of the hill of Sion The east wall which doth confront mount Oliuet is a great part of the ancient wall and so from the south-east angle north a quarter of a mile behinde mount Caluarie so that mount Caluarie which was in former times a stones cast without the citie and the appointed place for ordinarie execution I finde it to bee now seated in the hart or middle of the new citie This moūt Caluarie is not so high as to be called a mount but rather a pyked or aspyring Rocke for I noated the scituation of it both when I was at the toppe of it and when I came to the Sepulcher the Sepulcher being distant frō it I mean from the foote of it 173. foote as I measured it wher● vpon I conclude that the place of buriall which Ioseph of Aramathia made for him selfe was frō the foot of moūt Caluarie 173. foot westward in which place is the Sepulcher of our Sauiour The Sepulcher it selfe is two foote and a halfe high from the grounde eight foote in length and foure foote broade wanting three inches being couered with a faire stone of white colour Ouer the Sepulcher is a Chappell builded the North wall whereof is ioyned close with the North side of the Sepulcher and the Chappell is of like stone as the Sepulcher is consisting of fifteene foote in bredth fiue and twentie foote in length and about fortie foote in height In this Chappel are alwais burning thirtie or forty Lamps but vpon Festiuall daies more which are maintained by gifts giuen at the death of Christians in Spaine Florence other parts to be kept continually burning and the giuers of these Lamps haue their names ingrauen about the vpper edges of them in letters of golde standing in a band of gold or siluer This Chappell is inclosed with a Church and yet not it onely but therewith is circkled in all the before named holy places vz. where Christ was whipt where hee was in prison where his garments were deuided where the crosse was found where he was crowned with thornes where he was nailed on the crosse where the crosse stoode when he suffered where the vaile of the Temple rent where the three Maries annointed him where he appeared to Marie Magdalen in briefe al the most notable things either about mount Caluarie or Iosephes field of Aramathia are enclosed within the compasse of this Church which was builded by the fore-remembred Queene Helena mother to Constantine the greate shee being as I haue read in some Authors an English woman and daughter to king Coell that builded Colchester which being vrged to them they denyed it I measured this Church within and found it to bee 422. fadomes about the one side of it likewise I found to be 130. fadomes thus much for mount Caluarie which is in the middest of the citie now From the North-east angle of the citie to the North-west is the shortest way of the citie and from the North-west angle to the South-west is as farre as from the South-east to the North-east but from the South-west to the South-east which is the south wall that standeth on the foote of mount Sion I measured and found it to be 3775. foote which is about three quarters of a mile Upon this south-side of the citie is a great Iron gate about which gate are laide seauenteene pieces of brasse ordinance this gate is as great as the west gate of the Tower of London exceeding strong the walles being very thicke and on the south-side 50. or 60. foote high so much for the south wall and side of the citie The North wall is not altogither so long but much stronger for on the Northside it hath beene often surprized but on the southside neuer and on the East side it is impregnable by reason of the edge of the hill which it standeth on which is fiue times as high as the wall On the north side also are 25. pieces of brasse ordinance neere to the gate which is of Iron also but what is in other places as at the corners or angles I could not come to see and demaund I durst not The east wall containing the gate where saint Stephen was stoned a little without and to this day called saint Stephens gate I saw but
A True and strange discourse of the trauailes of two English Pilgrimes what admirable accidents befell them in their iourney to Ierusalem Gaza Grand Cayro Alexandria and other places Also what rare Antiquities Monuments and notable memories concording with the ancient remembrances in the holy Scriptures they sawe in Terra Sancta with a perfect description of the old and new Ierusalem and scituation of the Countries about them A discourse of no lesse admiration then well worth the regarding written by one of them on the behalfe of himselfe and his fellowe Pilgrime ¶ Imprinted at London for Thomas Archer and are to be solde at his Shoppe by the Royall Exchange 1603. A true and strange discourse of the late trauailes of two English Pilgrimes what admirable accidents befell them in their iourney to Ierusalem Grand Cayro Alexandria c. ALthough it passe as a generall prouerbe that trauailers may tel leasings by authoritie yet I being no way daunted by that bugbeare-thunderbolt but confidētly standing on the iustice of my cause my kinde commendations to all you my deare friendes first remembred thus from Ierusalem I beginne to salute you You shal vnderstand that since my departure from the Grand Cayro towards the Holy land I wrot you a letter from Ramoth Gilead wherein I certified you of all my proceedings from Grand Cayro euen to that very place I sent it with seauen other Letters beside to Damasco in a Carauan and thence to be conueyed to Constantinople but doubting least the said packet be not as yet come to your hands I thought it good to write againe vnto you concerning all the aforesaide proceedings as also the rest of my voyage to Ierusalem with my imprisonment and troubles in the citie as also what memorable antiquities I sawe there and elsewhere vntill my returne backe to Alexandria which was the 11. of Aprill 1601. First then let me tell you that I departed not from the Grand Cayro till the 9. of March vpon which day I came to the place where it is saide the Uirgine Mary did stay with our Sauiour Christ. So farre was I accompanied with Antonie Thorpe and some others that came vp to the Grand Cayro with mee but here they left mee departing back to the citie and I with my fellow trauailer Master Iohn Burrell both of vs being in our Pilgrimes habit came y ● night to a towne called Canko where we were glad to take vp our lodging in a yarde hauing no other bedding then the bare ground The next day we departed thence and came to a towne in the Land of Gozan where we met with a companie of Turkes Iewes and Christians and some seauen hundred and fiftie Camelles all which were bound for Damasco ouer the deserts yet was there amongst them two and twentie Greekes and Armenians whose purposed trauaile lay to Ierusalem which made vs the gladder of their companie At this towne being named Philbits we stayed two daies and one night in which time I went into a house where I sawe in my iudgement a very strange secret of hatching Chickins by artificiall heat or warmthe the like I had seene before at the Grand Cayro but not in such extraordinary numbers or multitudes as heere the manner whereof for your better satisfaction was as followeth The country people inhabiting about this towne by foure or fiue miles distance euery waie doe bring their Egges in apt cartage for the purpose vpon Asses or Camelles to this place where there is an Ouen or Furnace purposely kept temperatly warme and the Furner or Master thereof or howsoeuer it shall please you to tearme him standeth ready at a little doore receiuing the Egges of euery one by tale except when the nūber ariseth so high as to tenne Camelles lading or more then he filleth a measure by tale after that order measures all y ● rest And let me tell you this for a trueth that I sawe there receiued by the Furner Cooke or Baker in one day what by tale what by measure to the number of thirtie fiue or fortie thousand Egges and they tolde me that for three daies space together hee doth nothing but receiue in still and at twelue daies they come againe to fetch Chickins sometimes at tenne daies and sometimes but not very often at seauen daies according as the weather falleth out Perhaps some two hundred persons are owners of one Raungefull some hauing two thousand some one or more or lesse as the quantities amount too but the Furner noateth the names and portions of euery bringer and if he hap to haue an hundred and fiftie thousand or two hundred thousand at one heate as many times it chaunceth that he hath yet doth he mingle them altogether as not respecting to whom they seuerally belong Then doth he lay them one by one vpon his Raunge so neere as they can lye and touch each other hauing first made a bed for them of Camelles dunge burnt and the place whereon the ashes doth rest is of a very thinne matter made of earth but mixed with the Camels dung in the making and some Pigeons dung is also amongst it yet herein consisteth not the secreat onely for there is made a concaue or hollow place about three foote breadth vnder it whereon is likewise spred an other layer of Camels dung and vnder that is the place where the fire is made Yet can I not rightly call it fire because it appeareth too be nothing but embers for I could discerne it but as qualified ashes yeelding a temperate heate to the next concaue and the heate being resisted by the layer of dung next it which dung being greene and layd vpon pieces of withered trees or rather boughes of old dead trees deliuereth foorth an extraordinarie vapour and that vapour entreth the hollow concaue next vnder the Egges where in time it pearceth the before named mixed earth which toucheth the ashes whereon the Egges are laid and so serueth as a necessarie receptacle for al the heate comming from vnderneath This artificiall heate gliding through the embers whereon the Egges lie doth by degrees warme thorowe the shelles and so infuseth life by the same proportions of heate thus in seuen eight nine ten or sometimes twelue daies life continueth by this artificiall meanes Now when the Furner perceiueth life to appeare and that the shelles begin to breake then he beginneth to gather them but of an hūdred thousand he hardly gathereth threescore thousand sometime but fiftie thousand and sometime when the day is ouercast not twentie thousand and if there chaunce any lightning thunder or raine then of a thousand he gathers not one for they doo then all miscarie die And this is to be remembred withall that be the weather neuer so fayre the aire perfect cleare and euery thing as themselues can desire let the Chickens be hatched in the best manner that may be yet haue they either a clawe too much or too little for sometimes they haue fiue clawes
shewed vs was the place iudiciall next the house of Veronica sancta and demanding of them what Saint that was they told me it was shee that did wipe our Sauiours face as he passed by in his agonie Descending a little lower in the same street they shewed mee the way which our Sauiour went to crucifying called by them Via dolorosa Then on the right hand in the same street I was showne the house of the rich glutton at whose gate poore despised Lazarus lay Holding on our way downe this streete wee came to a turning passage on the left hand whence they tolde me Simon Sirenus was comming toward the Dolorous way when the Soldiours seeing him called him and compeld him against his will to helpe our Sauiour to carie his crosse Then they told mee that in the same place the people wept when Christ answering said vnto them Oh daughters of Ierusalem weepe not for mee c. Next they shewed me the Church where the virgine Marie fell into an agonie when Christ passed by carying his Crosse. Afterward they brought mee to Pilates Palace which though it be all ruinated yet is there an olde Arche of stone which is still maintained by the Christians and it standing full in the high way wee passed vnder it much like the way of passage vnder master Hammons house in the Bulwarke but that the Arch is higher for vpon that Arche is a Gallerie which admitteth passage ouer our heads from one side of the streete to the other for Pilates Palace extended ouer the high way on both sides and Pilate had two greate windowes in the saide Gallerie to gaze out both waies into the streete as master Hammon hath the like aduantage at both his windowes Into this Gallery was our Sauiour brought when hee was showen vnto the Iewes and they standing belowe in the street heard the words of Ecce homo A little from this place is the foote of the staires where our Sauiour did first take vp his Crosse. Then they brought mee to the place where the virgine Marie was conceiued and borne which is the Church of Saint Anna and no Turkish Church Next they shewed me the Poole where Christ cleansed the Leapers and then guiding mee to Saint Stephens gate a little without it vpon the left hand they shewed mee the stone wheron S. Stephen was stoned From hence I sawe the staires going vp to porte Aurea at which porte are diuers reliques to be seen it was the East gate of the Temple which Salomon built vpon mount Moria in which Temple was the place of Sanctum Sancterum but now in that place is builded a goodly greate Church belonging to the Turkes Thus spent I the second day being the 26. of March all within the gates of Ierusalem except my going to see the stone wherewith S. Stephen was stoned The next day being the 27. of March hauing done our dutie to God and the Pater Guardian we hyred Asses for the Friers and the Trouchman to ride on and going foorth the citie gates we mounted and rode directly toward Bythinea By the way as we rode they shewed me the place of the fruitlesse Fig-tree which Christ cursed next the Castle of Lazarus that Lazarus whome Christ loued so well for his house or Castle is in Bythinea but it is vtterly ruinated and nothing to be seene but the two sides of a wall In the same towne they shewed me the house of Marie Magdalen but al so ruinated that nothing is left of it but a piece of a wall there I sawe likewise Marthaes house consisting of three pieces of a wall and thence they brought me to the stone where the two sisters tolde Christ that Lazarus was deade from whence passing on they shewed me the place where our Sauiour raised Lazarus from death after he had lien three daies in the ground and where he was buried afterward when he died This place hath bin not ably kept from the beginning and is repaired still by the Christians but yet in poore and very bare sort and this is all that I saw in Bythinia Frō hence we rode vnto Mount Oliuet passing by Bethphage they brought me to the place where our Sauiour tooke the Asse and Colte when he rode to Ierusalem vpon Palme Sunday Riding from Bethphage directly to the North wee came to the foote of Mount Oliuet where they shewed me the place Benedicta of the virgin Maries Annunciation and ascending to the top of the Mount wee saw the place of our Sauiours Ascension at the sight whereof we said our Prayers and were commaunded withal to say 5. Pater nosters and 5. Aue Maries but we said the Lords praier tooke notice of the place and departed This is the very highest parte of Mount Oliuet and hence may be discerned many notable places as first West from it is the prospect of the new Cittie of Ierusalem Southwest from it may be seene the prospect of Mount Sion which is adioyning to new Ierusalem also in the valley betweene Sion and the mount whereon I stood I sawe the brooke Cedron the Poole Silo the Garden wherein our Sauiour praied the place where afterward he was betrayed and diuers other notable things in this valley of Gethsemanie as the Tombe of Absolon king Dauids sonne the Tombe of Iehoshaphat and others which I will speake of as I come to them Full South frō mount Oliuet I could see the places we came last from as all Bythinia and Bethphage also East North-east from this mount may be scene both the riuer of Iordan which is some 15. miles off and Iericho which is not so farre because it is to the Westward of Iordan From mount Oliuet East and East-South-east may be seene the lake of Sodome and Gomorrha which is some 100. miles long 8. miles ouer all these places I set with the Compasse when I was on mount Oliuet for I staied on the top of it some two houres and a halfe hauing a little Compasse about me Descending hence toward the foote Westward wee came to a place where the Friers told me that a woman called S. Pelagia did penaunce in the habit of a Frier whereat I smiling they demaunded why I did so I answered that to beleeue Pelagia was a Saint stood out of the compasse of my Creede they tolde me when I should come home at night they would shew me sufficient Authours for it but when I came home I had so much to doo in writing my notes out of my table bookes that I had no leysure to vrge their Authours for S. Pelagia By this time they brought vs to the place where our Sauiour did foresee the iudgement then where he made the Pater noster and then where the Apostles made the Creede From hence wee came to the place where Christ wept for Ierusalem thence to the place where the virgin Marie gaue the gyrdle to S. Thomas and then to the place where she prated for S. Stephen all these last
fiue pieces of ordinance there and they were betweene the gate and the relique of port Aurea which is to the southward and concerning the west side of the citie at the gate whereof I entred at my first arriuall it is verie strong likewise and hath fifteene pieces of ordinance lying neere togither and all of brasse This gate is also made of Iron and this West wall is altogither as long as the East wall but it standeth vpon the higher ground so that comming from the west to the west wall you can see nothing within the citie but the bare wall but vpon mount Oliuet comming towards the citie from the East you haue a verie goodly prospect of the citie by reason the citie standeth al on the edge of the hill To conclude this citie of Ierusalem is the strongest of all the cities that I haue yet seene in my iourney since I departed from the Grand Cayro but the rest of the countrey is very easie to be intreated yet in the citie of Ierusalem are three Christians for one Turke and many Christians in the countrey round about but they all liue poorely vnder the Turke Now concerning how the country about Ierusalem lyeth for your more easie and perfect vnderstanding I will familiarly compare the seuerall places w t some of our natiue English townes and villages according to such true estimation as I heer made of them Imagin then I begin with London as if it were the citie of Ierusalem The citie of Bethlem where Christ our Sauiour was born is from Ierusalem as Wansworth is from London I meane much vpon that point in distance The plaine of Mamre is from Ierusalem as Guildford is from London in which place or neere to it is the citie of Hebron where our father Abraham lyeth buried Beersheba is from Ierusalem as Alton is from London Ramoth Gylead is from Ierusalem as Reading is from London Gaza which is the South-west part of Palestine is from Ierusalem as Salisbury is from London Ascalon is from Gaza North-east Ioppa is from Ierusalem as Alberry is from London Samaria is from Ierusalem as Royston is from London The c●●ie of Nazareth is from Ierusalem as Norwich is from London From Nazareth to mount Tabor and Hermon is 5. miles North-east these two dost and very nerre together Tabor being the greater From Tabor to the Sea Tyberias is eight miles northeast From Ierusalem to mount Sinai is ten daies iourney and north-east thence These places last spoken of beginning at Samaria I was not in but the other fiue Englishmen that met me in Ierusalem comming through Galilee they came through them and of them I had this description they receiued of me likewise the description of my iourney through Palestine The place where Christ fasted 40. daies and 40. nights called Quarranto is from Ierusalem as Chelmesford is from London The riuer Iordane the very neerest part of it is from Ierusalem as Epping is from London Iericho the neerest part of the plaine thereof is from Ieursalem as Lowton hall sir Robert Worths house is from London The Lake of Sodome and Gomorrah is from Ierusalem as Grauesend is from London The riuer Iordane runneth into this Lake and there dieth which is one of y ● greatest secrets in my minde in the world that a fresh water should runne continually into this salt Lake and haue no issue out but there dyeth and the saide Lake continuing still so salt as no waight of any reasonable substance will sinke into it but alwaies floateth as a deade man or a dead beast will neuer goe downe Nay more whatsoeuer is brought into it by the riuer Iordane of any reasonable poyze besides the water it abideth continually vpon the superficies of the Lake and so being tossed thereon by the force of weather maketh a cougealed forthe which frothe being driuen vp vpon y ● banks it becommeth a kinde of black substāce like Pitch which there they cal Bytumen wherof I haue brought some part frō thence This Lake is about eight or nine miles broad an hundred miles in length stretching from the north where Iordane falles into it vnto the southward and hath no further issue that hath bene seene by any man The field where the Angell brought tydings of ioy to the Sheepheards is from Ierusalem as Greenwich from London Mount Oliuet is from Ierusalem as Bowe from London Bethanie is from Ierusalem as Blackwall from London Bethphage is from Ierusalem as Mile-end from London The valley of Gethsemanie is from Ierusalem as Ratcliffe fields from London The brooke Cedron is from Ierusalem as the ditch without Algate which runnes to the Tower from London Mount Sion is now adioyning to new Ierusalem as Southwarke to London Thus as plainely as the time afforded me haue I described vnto you the scituation of the city of Ierusalem and how the Country lyeth neere adioyning which by the familiar comparisons you may the easter vnderstand But come we now to the most especiall thing of all to see how iustly the Scriptures are fulfilled that Ierusalem should bee made a heape of stones the certainty and trueth whereof all such as haue bene there considering and marking it so deepely as I haue done are able to report for I could see no ground neer to the citie by fifteene or sixteene miles distance the plaine of of Iericho excepted but it is all a heape of stones yea and i● such exceeding abundance as I wonder how they can liue in it It for●u●ed my selfe M. Iohn and my Moore beeing within fiue miles of the citie and lodging in the fields all night I sent my Moore to a house not farre off to buy vs some breade for we had nothing to eate and he returning to vs brought vs word that the master of the house nor his children did euer eate any bread in all their liues for such is the poore estate of the country that a man may goe ten miles before you can see a plot of ground to feede a horse or a Cowe on yet the countries round about it as Palestine on the one side Galilie on the other and Syria to the west are all most goodly plentifull countries and Ierusalem it selfe which I thought to haue found the very fruitfullest place of all is the most barrennest place that I sawe in all my trauaile the deserts onely excepted I can compare no place in England therewith for the like sterilitie vnlesse the vnfruitfulst place in Cornwall where there is nothing but rockes and stones daily by the report of the inhabitants the stones growe and encrease more and more In briefe let all men that haue beene there or hereafter shall goe thither speake but rightly and without flattery and then they will say with mee that Ierusalem and fifteene miles about it euery way is no other then a heape of stones and the barrennest place in all Mesopotamia And I am of this minde that it is quite forsaken of the Lord for