but that they leave fruitful Fields round about between the Bay and them well planted with Olive-yards Vine-yards and Corn-fields among them and from the Town to Mount Sipylus is a Valley of four or more Miles in length and near a Mile broad in some places which with the Gardens about the Town and the Town it self drink up two pretty Streams of good Water one rising North-ward from the Mountain Sipylus and the other Southward from Mount Mimas which joyn together North-East of the Town and what it spareth which is but little the Sea receiveth at the North-West end of the Town That which cometh North-wards from Mount Sipylus is a considerable Stream driveth seven Mills and hath abundance of Fish in it The other coming from Mount Mimas is the greatest part brought to the Town in Aqueducts two of which are well built with Stone-Arches crossing the Valley or deep Foss which it self hath dug between two Hills whereof the Northern-most is where Old Smyrna stood now only a Castle The rest of the Water is divided amongst the Gardens Smyrna is a place of great Antiquity and is reputed to have had the Amazon Smyrna for its Foundress They therefore stamped their Money with the Figure of her Head I got several pieces of them very rare and saw many more in the Cabinet of an ingenious Merchant there Mr Faulkener who designs his Collection for the Vniversity of Oxford One small one hath her Head crowned with Towers and her two-edged Hatchet on her Shoulder almost worn out with Age and about it are these Letters ΣΜΥΡÎΑ Med. 32 33. on the other side the Prow of a Ship and these ΣΜΥΡÎΑΙΩΠMed. 38. From another I saw of the Empress Tranquillina is to be seen her whole Habit which is thus Her Head is crowned with a Tower as before her two-edged Axe upon her Shoulder holding a Temple in her right hand perhaps referring to some Temple Tranquillina had built in a short Vest let down to her Knees and Buskins half way her Legs There is something also the holdeth in her left hand besides her Axe which perhaps is her Bow In another she is dressed in the Habit of Hercules Of the antient Situation and Beauty of this place Strabo giveth the best and shortest Account Thence saith he describing it North-ward from Ephesus is another Bay in which is Old Smyrna twenty Stadia or two Miles and a half from the New When the Lydians had destroyed Smyrna the Country thereabout was only inhabited by Villages for Four hundred Years together After which Antigonus restored it and after him Lysimachus At this day it is of all the Asian Cities most beautiful Part of it is built upon the Mountain but the greater part on the Plain to the Haven unto the Temple of the Mother of the Gods and to the Gymnasium The Streets are most excellently and as much as possible reduded into right Angles all paved with Stone It hath great and square Porticoes both in the higher and lower parts of the City There is a Library and the Homerion which is a square Portico with a Temple containing his Statue For the Smyrnoites are very zealous for the Nativity of Homer amongst them and have a brass piece of Money called by his Name Homerion The River Meles runneth by the Walls There is a Haven on the other side of the City which may be shut up at pleasure Thus far Strabo The Old Smyrna that was in his time in all probability was on a Hill South of this that is now and West of the Castle-hill For there are some Steps of Heaps of Stones laid in some order as if a Wall had been there His New Smyrna but the Old one of our times without doubt took up all the Hill the Old Castle standeth on and that adjoyning to it down to a point running into the Bay Southwards and of the Plain much more North-East than the New Smyrna of our times But North I believe not more if so much For turning into Franck-Street is a Wall which seemeth to be part of the antient Walls of the City although the Mouth of the River Meles is just without the present Buildings which is not far and might easily be turned thither if nearer to the Walls formerly Along this Wall from the Sea you come to the Foundations of a great Building of hewed Stone they were then demolishing which might have been the Sibyl's Temple the great Mother of the Gods As to the Homerion it hath been thought that which they call the Temple of Janus perhaps from its Similitude to that at Rome because it is not far off from the River supposed to be the River Meles It is a four square Stone-building about three Yards square with two doors opposite to each other one North and the other South and a large Niche within against the East-Wall where his Image was supposed to stand But my Comrade receiv'd Letters since that digging by it hath been found a Statue with a double Visage which confirms the opinion Med. 39 40 42. That it was the Temple of Janus Of the Brass Money called by Homer's Name I did light upon one-piece not long since with his Head and Name on one side and the Figure and Name of the River Meles on the other in Greek Characters I saw another among Mr Faulkeners a Coturniate Medalion with his Head and Shoulders and a Branch before him having his Name about it On the Reverse is a Man leading a Horse Homer's Name in Mr Faulkener's begins with Ω but in mine with Ο. Where the Gymnasium was and the many noble Porticoes which adorned this Place is now past conjecturing But the Port that did shut and open at pleasure might be that little square place by the Fort which now serves to harbour the Gallies and other small Boats But other Remains of Antiquity not mentioned by Strabo although none of the least are the Theater and Cirque The Theater is on the Brow of the Hill North of the Castle built of white Marble but now is going to be destroyed to build the new Kan and Bazar hard by the Fort below which they are now about and in doing whereof there hath been lately found in the Foundation a Pot of Medals all of the Emperour Gadlienus his Family and the other Tyrants that reigned in his time which make me believe he built it or at least that it was done in his days although my Comrade seemeth to think it was the Emperour Claudius because he found his Name on a piece of a Pedestal in the Scene of it But I think without reason For that could be no part of the Theater since in the Foundation of antient Buildings it is usual to find the Coyn of the Founders or the contemporary Emperours The Cirque is dug deep in the Hill that is West of the Castle about Two hundred and fifty paces long and about Forty five broad This was used in Courses
Reproof but much to the purpose Thou art a necessary Evil said he for we can neither live with thee nor without thee Lib III. Fig XIII The stone covering the litle Temple within The litle Temple att Melassa Lib III. Fig XII About half a Mile out of this Town there is a square Temple with four Pillars on every side It is built upon an Arch and covered on the top with many large Stones laid one upon another The Figure I had given me of it is This. My Comrade esteems it to one of the Temples of Jupiter Strabo speaks of But surely not that which he says was sixty Stadia out of Town for that is in effect eight Miles and the other was in the Town called Osogo Near the Pillar of Menander stand four Pillars square to each other not far from which there is a Stone whereon is written only ΔΙΟΓΕÎΗΣ ΔΙΟΓΕÎΟΥ Diogenes Son of Diogenes No City in Strabo's time was more curiously adorn'd with Porticoe's and Temples than this having a Quarry of most excellent white Marble in the Mountains above them of which Glory you have heard what remains to be seen at present The rest is buried in its Ruins Nevertheless it is yet inhabited but without any great Trade Their chiefest Commodity being Tobacco of which our Travellers say They saw great quantities and beyond their Expectation found good Entertainment My Comrade produceth two Medals of this Place Med. 79 80. one of the Emperour Hadrian and the other of Geta. The next day they past over another very high Mountain esteem'd by their Report the highest of all Caria and which according to their design of Visiting the Churches I believe must be Mount Latmus again and the same which Strabo saith Mylassa was built under They had not travelled many Hours ISQUIHISSER before they came to a Town called Isquihisser where they found the Ruins of a great Temple and Pillars with Inscriptions on them This may be the City Stratonicaea which STRATONICAEA Strabo saith was a Colony of Macedonians and had two Temples near it in these Plains the most beautiful of them dedicated to Hecate and the other to Jupiter sirnamed Chrysaorius which was common to all the Carians being the Place where they used to meet to sacrifice and confer on Matters of State which Assembly of theirs was called Chrysaorium That which confirms me in this Opinion is That Ptolomy's Tables place Stratonicaea this way from Mylassa not that the distances do exactly agree I think it may suffice that they do agree as well as other distances his Tables commonly assigne The rest of our Friends Journey was the Visiting of the Seven Churches of St John's Apocalypse of which I have already given some Account Therefore with the Consideration of some Medals I saw and bought there of several Cities in these Parts I shall conclude this Book 1. Of the City of Trallis I saw two Medals TRALLIS Med. 81 82. one of the Emperour under the Consulship of Modestus The Reverse is a River and these Letters ΤΡΑΛΛΙΑÎΩΠOf the Trallians Whence is to be learned That it is situated upon or near a River and out of Strabo that this River was the Meander and that it was a very ample City and always yielded Great Men employed in the Government of Asia though now utterly destroyed as appears from Mr Smith who hath very well observ'd That Trallis at this day can be no other but those Ruins now called by the Turks Sultan-hisser or Sultan's Castle on Hill three quarters of a Mile North of the River Meander in the way from Laodicaea to Ephesus from the first of which he maketh it to be about twenty Hours riding and near a Village called Teke-qui The other Medal is of the Emperour Gallienus whose Reverse is Diana hunting and about it written ΤΡΑΛΛΙΑÎΩΠOf the Trallians 2. Of Magnesia I saw several First MAGNESIA ad MEANDRUM Med. 84. One stamped in the time of the Emperour Philip and hath on the Reverse the Figure of Fortune with these Letters ΜΑΓÎΕΤΩΠΕΓΕ. ΙΟΥΑ ΠΑΥΛΟΥ Of the Magnesians Julius Paulus being Governour I have already spoken of some Medals of Magnesia which refer to that Magnesia which is by the Mountain Sipulus and ordinarily for distinction sake called Magnesia ΑΠΟ ΣΙΠΥΛΟΥ But this hath only ΜΑΓÎΕΤΩΠin the Inscription without any other Addition and therefore ought to be referred to the Magnesia on the Meander of which Strabo speaketh in his Fourteenth Book calling it Magnesia 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 because it is situated near the River Meander although it be nearer the River Lethaeus arising from the Ephesian Mountain Pactyus and falling into the Meander But it is a question Whether by some means an Errour be not committed by Strabo or his Copist in calling this Magnesia a City of Aeolis not only because Ptolomy maketh it to be in Caria but also from his own precedent words where after he had described the Maritime Parts and Confines of Aeolis and Ionia he addeth The Mediterranean Parts of the Ionian Shore follow which are in the way between Ephesus and Antiochia and then adds The first after Ephesus is Magnesia a City of Aeolis which doubtless is a mistake and he should have said Ionia for the nearest Part of Aeolis is as he before spake a great way North of this Place on the River Hermus North of Smyrna It may be question'd I say whether there be not some defect in the Copies of Strabo and that whatsoever Transcribers have made him seem to speak yet that he himself at first could mean or intend to say no more than this in effect viz. Next after Ephesus is Magnesia of the same Name with that Magnesia a City of Aeolis For he seems to reckon the other Magnesia which is by Mount Sipylus among the Cities of Aeolis But perchance there might be some Mediterranean Snip of Land running down between Ionia and Lydia unto the Plains where Meander runs For in the next Page he saith From Magnesia in the way to Trallis the Mountain Mesogis is on the left hand and the Plain of Meander on the right inhabited by the Lydians the Carians Ionians Mylessians Mysians and the Aeolians by Magnesia But if so then may the Geographers mend their Maps And so only as I can think on what Strabo said before can be right This Place is now called Guzel-Hisser as Mr Smith with great prabability affirmeth which is a large Walled Town with handsom Gates well built within and adorn'd with several Mosques It is maintain'd by the Trade of Cotton-Yarn which they send to Smyrna It is situate about eight Hours riding from Sultan-Hisser or Trallis towards the North-West and about twelve from Ephesus towards the South-East not far from the Meander and hath yet remaining several Pillars and Monuments of Antiquity 3. Of Nysa we had one NYSA Med. 85. stamped in the time of Maximinus the Emperour whose Head and Name it bears
there is on the top Tou Hagiou Georgiou vouni St Georges Mountain which might in times past be that which Pausanias calleth Anchesmus a little Mountain Not as the French Author of the New and Old Athens saith Pentelicus covered with Woods and where the Quarries of Marble are For here upon this Mountain of St George are neither Woods nor Quarries being only a bare Rock lying about a Mile off the Town East North-East It hath the Chanel of the River Ilissus running by it South-East and turneth round it South and South-Westwards by the Hill called in times past the Musaeum and is about a Bow-shot South-West of the Acropolis or Castle Whence it falls into another Stream which rising by several Fountains from Mount Parnes and Pentelicus runneth by the City North-East about three Miles distant from it and watering in its passage a Wood of Olive trees of at least half a dozen Miles long and one or two broad which is now the greatest Wealth and Ornament of the Athenian Plain It is not easie to determin whether this River should be called Cephisus or Eridanus Strabo plainly calleth it Cephisus But our Geographers of late and modern Times make it Eridanus with whom I will not for the present dispute Only I must tell them Latitude They are out in their Latitude of Athens whatever they are in their Longitude For they place it in Thirty Seven Degrees Latitude and Fifty Three Longitude whereas Mr Vernon found it to be Thirty Eight Degrees Five Minutes Latitude The Cittadel that now is was at first all the City having no other Inhabitants but such as dwelt within those Walls Afterwards in times of its greatest Prosperity it was no more than the Castle or Acropolis standing in the middle of the City And still it continueth to be the Castle even in this low Estate though it cannot at present be said to stand in the middle of it but rather somewhat above it to the South-West the rest encompassing in antient times being quite destroyed So that the present Town lieth not round about the Castle as antiently but to the North-West side of it being now spread on the Plain under it in length I believe a Mile and half in breadth somewhat above a Mile and is esteem'd four Miles in Circumference It hath no Walls to defend it self insomuch that they have been frequently surpriz'd by the Pirates from Sea and sustained great Losses from them Until some Years since they secured all the Avenues into the Town by Gates which they built anew and made the utmost Houses lying close together to serve instead of Walls These they now shut up every night and are by them reasonably well secured from those Corsairs The Houses are very close built together and the Streets very narrow The whole is divided into Eight Quarters or Parishes which they call Platoma besides the Castle Their Names and Situation are these which follow 1. The First is called Placa and is situate on the South-East-side of the Town It hath in it the Monument called The Lanthorn of Demosthenes the Church entituled Hagio-Kyra and the Consul's House 2. The Second is called Sotiras Tou Kotaki and lieth Eastwards towards the Church Lycodemou 3. The Third Monoca Luptis This is about the middle of the Town wherein is the New Mosque called T is Baciras from a Widow Woman of that Name who built it 4. The Fourth Roumbi which is about the Church Panagia Cacoumeria and the Place where they burn Lime 5. The Fifth is Sâ—â— Platoma on the North-East-side towards the Church Hagio Theodoro and the Pillar Hagios Johannis 6. The Sixth Boreas Platoma which is the North Quarter by the Church called Chrysospiliotisa 7. The Seventh Hagii Colymbi is North-Westwards towards the Temple of Theseus and Eleusis 8. The Eighth Gerlada is under the Castle about the Church Hagio Nicolao To these the Castle being added Athens is not so despicable a Place that it should deserve to be consider'd only as a small Village according to the Report of some Travellers who perhaps have seen it only from Sea through the wrong end of their Perspective-Glas For from the Sea the Castle is only perceivable which hideth all the rest of the Town spread out upon the Plain North of it But if it be compared with the former State when it took up a considerable Part of the Plain was joyned to its two Ports Phaleracus and Pyraeus by its two long Walls one four Miles in length the other five Munichia being joyn'd to Pyraea between them when it gave Laws to other Nations but received none when it was the Seat of the Muses of Wit Eloquence and Learning where all Arts and Sciences seem'd to be born nursed up and brought to their full State and heighth of Perfection Indeed those that shall thus consider Athens will find the Scene quite changed Philosophers being now more rigorously banished thence by Fate than they could ever be in old time by the ill Humours of their Governours For the Athenians have had their share in the ill Fortune of all those noble Cities of the East the Fury of the Destroyer having cast them also down although not utterly extinguish'd them Indeed I have seen but few Towns in Turky that have preserv'd themselves so well as this nor that enjoy greater Priviledges under the Tyranny of the Turks True it is some other Cities by Trading seem more Rich than Athens But I attribute this rather to the bad Fortune of the Place than to want either of good Harbours or good Merchandize to export or vend for such as may be imported They count their Town as I said four Miles in compass The Athenians Quality and Numbers and esteem themselves Eight or Ten thousand Inhabitants whereof three Parts are Christians the rest Turks No Jews among them nor would they ever admit any to inhabit with them although it hath often been attempted For this must with great truth be said of them Their bad Fortune hath not been able to take from them what they have by Nature that is much natural Subtilty or Wit of which Natural Wit the Serenity and Goodness of the Air they enjoy may be a great natural Cause as I doubt not but it is of the Healthiness of the People which is such Health that it is commonly observ'd that when the Pestilence is round about them From good Air. at Thebes Negropont Napoly Corinth c. it seldom or very rarely cometh thither Their natural Dexterity in all the little Matters they undertake shews it self extraordinary as in buying selling and all their Domestick Affairs and not a little also in Publick considering the Circumstances they are in For finding their Turkish Governours were still too hard for them Priviledges and still imposing upon them notwithstanding the Priviledges they had capitulated for at their Surrender and dearly purchas'd afterward they about thirty Years ago not without some Difficulty
and cases extraordinary Now if the Areopagus were upon this ridge of the Hill descending from the Castle Hesychius is not so very blameable for putting it in that Acropolis for this Hill is part of the Rock the Castle stands upon And Suidas saith That Pagus signifies a Rock Hill or other eminent place All which doth clearly insinuate that this so celebrated place of the Athenian Judicature was built upon this Hill whence it was called Mars his Hill because upon it Mars had suffered Judgment in a solemn Assembly for the Murder of Halirrhothius Son of Neptune I shall only add That if these conjectures of mine touching the Areopagus and Fountain there be good it will make a great alteration in the Names which Travellers have hitherto given to sundry Antiquities in Athens For it followeth that the Temple of Ceres was near that place and not on the Banks of Eilissus and that the Fountain Caliro there also was neither Calirrhoe Hallirrhothium nor Hennâ—acrene as indeed it could not be For that Fountain on the River Ilissus was never within the Walls of the City as those were no more than the River Eilissus it self that ran by its Eastern Walls This also helps something to vindicate the regularity of Pausanias his Description of Athens and without which he will be said to have done it with the greatest confusion imaginable I doubt also Authors confound this Fountain Halirrhothium with Calirrhoe the Fountain of Calydou in Aetotia of which I have spoken something already in what I have said at Patras From this Fountain keeping along the ridge of the Hill a little way North-Westwards under a cragged Rock is a ruined Church they say was formerly dedicated to Saint Dennys the Areopagite and by it is the Palace of the Archbishop of Athens They believe it was built on the Foundations of the Palace that most Illustrious Senator lived in who was the first Christian and first Bishop of Athens Of this Church there is nothing to be seen now but a heap of ruines and a Well where they say Saint Paul hid himself for a little while seeing the people put in an uproar upon his Preaching in the Areopagus This Tradition seems to confirm my opinion that the Areopagus stood hereabouts Lib V Fig XI Templum Thesei Descending this Hill Northwards from the Archbishops Palace The TEMPLE OF THESEUS out of Town is the Temple of Theseus a Building in all respects like the Temple of Minerva in the Castle as to its matter form and order of Architecture but not so large For the Portico that is raised upon half a dozen of steps or degrees is but an hundred and one foot long and forty four foot and a half broad and each degree one foot two inches and a half deep the Cella fifty four foot long and twenty broad The Beauty of this Structure is not at all prejudiced by its littleness but still remains a Master-piece of Architecture not easie to be parallel'd much less exceeded by any other Much of the History of Theseus is expressed in Relievo on the Pronaos of the Front and West end where all the Locks and Art of Wrestling seem admirably well express'd There are some also in Womens Habits as I suppose to express the War of the Amazons Pausanias seems to describe all this as painted and indeed the Frize is adorned with square Pannels round the outside which may have been painted in former times but is long since washed away by the weather to shew the natural Beauty of the white Marble This was built presently upon the Battle of Marathon against the Persians It is now dedicated to Saint George instead of that in the Castle when Athens sell into the hands of the Turks ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗΙ ΕΠΙ ΤΟΥ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΕΙ .... ΙΟΠΠΟÎΤΙ ΚΟΠΑΡΧΟÎΤΑ ΕÎΙΑΥΤΟΥ Η ΠΡΥ ΤΑÎΕΙΑΣ ΟΙ ΠΡΥΤΑÎΕΙΣ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΠΔΕΙΟÎΙΔΟΣ ΦΥΛΗΣ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΑÎΤΕΣ ΑΥ ΤΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥΣ ΑΙΣΕΙΤΟΥΣ ΑÎΕΓΡΑΨΑΠΕΠΩÎΥΜΟΣ ΘΕΟΠΟΜΠΟΣ ΘΑΛΑΜΟΥΠΑΙΑ ΠΑΙΑÎΙΕΙΣ ΦΛ. ΑΡΙΑÎΟΣ c. ΣΤΕΙΡΙΕΙΣ ΓΕΛΛ ΤΕΙΜΟΘΕΟΙ c. After this follows a Catalogue of Names of Men of these and some other Towns of the Tribe of Pandion ending with several Officers belonging to the Councel of the Pritanes which I omit because it is long having too little time now to transcribe it and examine it as it deserves It signifies That then and after Julius Ponticus was Archon the eighth Year of his being Prytane That the Prytanes of the Tribe of Pandion honouring these Men enrolled them among those that supped daily in the Assembly of Prytanes Within the Quire or Holy place is a piece of a Pillar made hollow on the top I suppose for a Font to baptize in on the sides of which are two large ancient Inscriptions one whereof I copied but not the other it stood so in a corner against the Wall Hard by this was formerly the Gymnasium of Ptolomy which I suppose may be a Foundation West of the Temple of Theseus now even with the ground in which is a large Stone of Egyptian Granate Marble but I observed nothing else from the Temple of Theseus If you keep along without the Town you will cross the way to Lepsina and pass by a Church called Chrysospiliotisa and come to that point of the Town I told you was directly West by North from Mount Saint George or Anchesmus Between the Church and it is one way out of the Town on the left hand which is the way to Pyraea or Portlione and the other straight forward to Eleusinia Going forwards towards the North-side of the Town you go by the Gate that leadeth into the Town by the way of Thebes and by it is the Church of St Theodorus and a little further another Church called Hagia Kyra and the way from Athens to Negropont still continuing yet onwards without the Town you pass by several other entrances into the City and ways out into the Country until you come to a Church they call Sotira Lycodemou on the East-side of the Town between the Town and Mount St George Here is supposed to have been the Lycaeum for Sotira Lycodemou is as much as to to say Our Lady of the Lycaeum being on that side of the Town where the antient Place of the Lycaeum was said to be to wit towards the River Eilissus The Church now standing there is a Building of Brick and other Materials they found about the Place of no antienter Date than the publick Profession of Christianity if so long There are two great Chairs of Stone one within the Church and another without both of very antient Work On that within are some few Figures in Basso-relievo and these Letters ΒΟΗΘΟΣ ΔΙΟΔ Boethus Son of Diodorus I remember Pliny somewhere speaks of a great Sculptor of this Name but his chiefest Skill was in Silver-work And this is what I observed to remain without the present Town But if from the Temple of Theseus you go the nearest way directly into the Town North-Eastward you will come to
the rest Crowned with very high and beautiful Mosques which give a most delightful Prospect to the Beholders at a Distance WHAT WITHIN So that Strangers are commonly swelled with extraordinary high Conceits of it but perhaps no Place in the World deceives their Expectation more than this for the Streets are narrow dark and steep composed of small low and ill built Houses consisting of Wood Earth or at the best but rough or unhewen Stone The Private Houses are but mean and beggarly it is only the Grand Signior's Palace the Mosques Bagnos Bazzars and Kans that make so splendid a shew at a Distance of some of which I will now speak more particularly So soon as we could Equippe our selves after the Turkish Mode we were in pain to see the Grand Signior's Palace SERAGLIO whereof we had so splendid a Prospect from Gallata and of which we had heard so great Things by Fame For from thence its Roofs raised high more by the Advantage of the Ground than its Numbers of Stories consisting of a great Number of Cuppaloes covered with Lead encompassed with large Gardens shaded with Cypress-Trees wonderfully raised our Expectation at that Distance The Turks call it Padisha-Seraï signifying the Kings or Emperours Palace Seraï signifying any great Building and from this word our Western Christians form Seraglio which they apropriate to this Palace As the whole City so is That in proportion a kind of a Triangle washed on two sides by the Sea and seâ—â—â—rated from the rest of the City by a high Wall South-West and South which may be about Three Miles in Compass We were conducted by a Street along the Western-Wall till we came to the Southern-Gate which hath nothing about it so stately that all Ambassadours should be denominated from thence Ambassadour at our Lofty Port as it is still expressed in all Capitulations with the Grand Signior It is propped up on the Out-side with Two course Marble Pillars set up with little Art or Ornament only some old Armour is hung up on the In-side It leadeth into a long but narrow Court lying in no Decent Order At the Right-hand whereof are some Buildings serving for such as are Sick in the Seraglio to lodge till they are cured On the Left-hand is a Building where the meanest Servants are lodged Beyond that is another Round Building supposed by some to have been part of Hagia-Sophia but I doubt the Distance is too great to have served as a Sacristy to it as some think There is now some Arms laid up in it as we observed looking into it from a great Wood-stack piled up between it and the Hagiam-Golams or Servants Lodgings Beyond this is another great Gate which brings into another large Quadrangle divided into many Irregular Parterrs planted with several sorts of Trees according as the Wayes to the several Offices direct having a large Fountain placed in the Middle This Court is encompassed on this side of the Gate and the Right-hand with a fair Portico sustained by the tall Granate Marble Pillars whose Capitals and Bases are bound with Brass paved with Marble and covered with Lead in many small Cuppaloes At the Left-hand some Distance from the Gate is their Court of Judicature they call the Divan where all Civil and Criminal Causes are tryed by the Vizier or his Deputy the Chaimacham assisted by other Lawyers We were not permitted to go in but saw them only at a Distance for none are allowed Entrance but such as have Business It joyns to other Buildings continued up to the Side opposite to the Gate whence the Grand Signior can come when he pleaseth to a private Window looking into the Divan to hear the Determinations of Causes unseen to any present and if he observes any Injustice done by his Officers calls them to an Account for it which hath many times cost them their Places and sometimes their Lives in other Emperours Reigns but This hath seldom Resided here long otherwise from the Sentence of the Vizier or Chaimacham there is no Appeal or other Remedy The Buildings on the other side opposite to the Gate are low built they seemed at that distance only to consist of Wood and Mortar expressing little of Beauty or Art the only Ornament is the Roof built of many small Cuppaloes near together covered with Lead On the Right Hand of this Quadrangle is a Gate that leadeth to a whole Street of Kitchins and Stables whose Roofs are all covered with Lead and beautifyed with Cuppaloes The Kitchins seem too stately for the Turkish Cookery whose chief Dish is only Rice half boyled with a Hen which they call Pillau I saw not many fine Horses in the Streets because the Grand Signior was at Adrianople The inmost Court of the Seraglio beyond the Third Gate and the Womens Appartment is kept Secret and to Christians inaccessible except upon extraordinary Occasions Beyond them to the point of the Promontory are the Gardens which towards the West also reach up to the great Gate They speak of Fountains and great Curiosities in them but unseen to us We were carried upon the Top of the Wood-pile at the West End of that round Building supposed to belong to Hagia-Sophia whence we could look over the Wall into the Gardens The greatest Ornaments we could discover were the tall Cypress-Trees but set in no good Order And as to Knots Flowers and other Delights of that Nature I could discover none They speak of an Egyptian Obelisk here which we should have been glad to have seen but more of the Library reported to be in the Seraglio and in that more particularly of T. Livius that is said to be there entire But we were told That it could never be found although vast Sums of Money have been offered to the Bustangi Basha for it When we had seen as much as we were permitted of the Seraglio we returned out by the same way we came for although there be some other Gates yet they are not for any ordinarily to pass out and in at but kept still fast Our Curiosity led us in the next place to see the great Mosques MOSQUES which are indeed very Magnificent and Splendid The first near the Seraglio is Hagia-Sophia or Sancta-Sophia the Turks having continued the Name although they have robbed God of the Honour once paid Him by the Christian Worship in that Place For it was once a most Magnificent Church built by the Emperour Justinian and dedicated to Christ the Wisdom of God by the Title of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 On the Western End is a large Portico the Breadth of the whole Fabrick which you enter into by the Three great Doors and is ceil'd with Mosaick Work containing several Historical Figures out of the Holy Scripture but somewhat defaced by the Turks This leads into the Church by Five large Brass Folding-Doors which is a most Magnificent Fabrick ceil'd again with Mosaick Work paved with several sorts of Marble Porphyry
is a place that aboundeth with all sorts of Provisions whether Corn Flesh or Fish only Wine is scarce by reason that it is prohibited But though there be none permitted to be sold in the City at Gallata are some Christian Cabarets but the Wine is dear They sell it by weight here and all over Turkey The Oka which is a weight of about forty two Ounces is sold here for a quarter of a Doller that is about fourteen Pence and contains about three Pints and an half or two Quarts The best Wine is made by the Jews who by their Law must not make Mixtures They have great plenty of many sorts of good Fish Oysters here are better than I tasted them any where except in England The Sword-Fish is another I took notice of for its Goodness and firm fleshy Substance Their Fruits are excellent Figs Peaches and Apples very fair and good The Turks are very sweet-tooth'd and love all kind of sweet Meats But I cannot commend them for good Confectioners They preserve Fruits with new Wine boyled to Syrup Honey and sometimes Sugar which although they are not ill-tasted would hardly pass with our English Ladies they are so ill-colour'd Their most ordinary Drink is Water next a Sorbet made of Raisins steeped in Water But the Richer sort have Sorbet made of Sugar and Honey boyled to a consistence with the Juyce of lemons which they mix with Water when they use it Coffee they drink at any time but at Meal and is the usual Entertainment when any come to visit them About a dozen or fifteen Miles North from Gallata BELGRADE towards the Black Sea we went to see a place which from the Beauty and Pleasantness of it is called Belgrade The Country lies high shaded with abundance of Woods watered with many wholsom Springs stored with several sorts of Game accommodated with several small Villages at convenient Distances and the Air very good and healthful To these shady Woods many Persons of Quality as well of the Turks as Ambassadours and rich Merchants retire to enjoy the fresh Air in the scorching Heats of Summer and to hunt at the proper Seasons of the Year Here some build them pretty Houses of Pleasure others stately Chiosques or Banquetting-Houses and others content themselves to sojourn in Tents they stretch out under the tall Trees near some refreshing Spring All these Springs are with great Care and greater Charges collected into several large Cisterns near each of which is built a stately Chiosque or Summer-house The usual Form of them is square contrived so with large Pent-house-Roofs for shade yet so open round about that one enjoys all the Liverty Freshness and Goodness of the open Air without the least Inconvenience from the heat of the Sun You mount up to them by four or five Steps to an Area paved with Purcelane Tile or Marble covered with Indian Mats or Carpets with Balusters or Rails about it The Roof also within is painted with several Colours as red green white and yellow and pretty Knots of Figures wrought on them From these Cisterns the Water is conveyed by Channels under ground to the several Aqueducts that carry it by many Windings and Turnings over the low Valleys from the tops of Hills to Hills until at last it is brought with a vast Charge to Constantinople Several of these we observed both in our way thither and return to Gallata AUQEDUCTS Especially one about mid-way joyning two Hills together cross a Valley at least half a Mile over This consists of two Ranges of Arches whereof the lowermost hath fifty and the uppermost fifty one and I believe from the deepest part of the Valley to the top of the Aqueduct is above thirty Yards There is another in sight of this Eastwards which bends and makes an Angle This hath three Ranges of Arches one above the other but not so many in number North of this first we saw another which joyns two Hills together by a narrow but very deep Valley This hath but four Arches in two Tanges but the Arches are exceedign large I measured them not but Mr. Smith saith They are above fifty Foot wide The Care of these Waters and the cleansing of these Aqueducts and Channels are imposed upon the adjacent Villages for which service they are freed from all other Taxes Most of these Aqueducts were built by the latter Roman and Greek Emperours But by Time Wars and Neglignece being run to decay and ruined they were repaired again at the great Charge and indefatigable Industry of Sultan Suliman who for this and the stately Mosque he built in the City was deservedly called the Magnificent These Waters being thus brought to the City are again collected into several great Cisterns and thence again by earthen Pipes dispersed to the several Quarters private Houses and publick Buildings of the City Whereof one is against the wall of the City by Ballata another under Hagia-Sophia and Mr. Smith speaks of one at Sultan Selim's Mosque The Plants I took notice of hereabouts were 1. PLANTS A kind of Dwarf-Abrotonum with Flowers like Cammonil 2. A sort of Serpillum with Leaves like Savoury the Smell also differing from ours Lib II. Fig Ix Androsoemum Constaninopolitaâ—um flore maximo I found another Plant going thither and to the Black-Sea also which I know not to what species to refer unless to Androsemum majus which we call Parks-Leaves For the Leaves are of the substance and colour only longer and of a more tough Substance growing two by two on a shrubby square Stalk of a reddish colour not rising from the ground above a span high On the top of which succeedeth a large yellow Flower much bigger than Parks-Leaves filled with a large Tuft of the same our of which before the Flower is fallen beginneth to rise a long Vessel divided into five Appartments full of reddish Seeds The Smell is like the best Turpentine but more fragrant and like Coris Of it I observed two sorts The difference is only that the other by pairs cross each other It spreads upon the Ground in heaps so that seldom one shall find one Stalk alone Since my writing this I find that Dr. Morison hath described this Plant in his excellent History of Plants having raised it in the Botanick Garden at Oxford of which Science he is the Learned Professour out of the Seeds I sent to that University and hath named it Androsemum Olympii montis flore semine Theca quinque capsulari ominum maximus which is extreamly well distinguished only he should have put in Byzantinum or Constantinopolitanum instead of Montis Olympii as he hath done lately in a Letter to me with the Design of the Plant I here give you I also there saw some Trees of Guaiacum Patavinum which were shewed us as a Rarity at Pera. We waited a good while for a calm Day to go to the Mouth of the Black Sea to see the Pillar vulgarly called
round like That But perhaps it may be a kind of it I observed nothing of the Smell nor did I see the Flower But the Root is hard and woody Near the Town in the High-way groweth Periploca Latifolio in great plenty differing from that which Gerard describeth page 902. only that towards the ground it is of a shrubby Substance We finding Mr Cary as the Doctor thought in a mending Condition but that it would not be possible for him in many days to travel such a Journey we at last resolved to proceed in ours and leave him to God's Blessing and under Him to the care of Dr Covel his Spiritual Physician and the Armenian his Acquaintance and two Men their Servants But not long after we came to Smyrna we heard of his Death not without suspicion of a malignant Distemper brought with him from Constantinople So that Wednesday the thirteenth of October we parted thence but not above a Mile out of Town that Evening to Capligi where are the Baths of natural hot Waters but adorned with noble Structures of Marble over them covered with Cuppaloes of Lead It being Afternoon the time when the Women bathe only the Men in the Forenoon we could not enter into the Chiefest Only into one built by the Piety of a potent Man of the Country with Lodgings to it commodious for the use of Strangers The Basin of which is not great but of Marble and covered with a Cuppalo with Bell-Glasses here and there to let in the Light but not the Air. The Doctor and I concluded That the Water here is much hotter than ours in England it not being possible to be endured without tempering it with cold Water I was surprized the next Morning when I came to get on Horseback that I had no Bridle For not knowing their Custom I had forgot to put it into my Bargain which was three Dollars a Horse to Smyrna But I made our Guide to get me one before I would part thence But as my Companion observeth I learned afterwards in Greece to be less nice For there we were sometimes mounted like Marcus Aurelius in the Capitol without Bridle or Saddle However we parted before it was day and having rid through a plain South-west from this place part being well tilled and part Pasture stocked with Cows Horses and Boufalos a sort of Cattle not much differing from Oxen only they love the Water better and are much worse Meat but labour extreamly well We staid to bait our selves at a little Greek Village but not our Horses for they are accustomed to travel all day without it in Turkey After Dinner we proceeded still through a Country much of the same Nature with that in the Morning only here and there some little Hills that gave us good Prospects of the other parts of the spacious Campagne This day we met with half a dozen of Horse-men which we took to be Robbers and not without reason as we were afterwards informed But with our Janizary we took from Constantinople and the Doctor 's and Mr Bernardiston's Men we were seven of us well armed besides our Guides So that we were not afraid of a greater force than theirs An hour and an half or two Hours we went along not far distant at our left hand a fine Lake as we judg'd it about twenty five Miles long and about seven or eight broad through which the River Ascanius runneth as we then judged and the Lake it self to have been so called also but I rather believe it to be the Rhyndicus RHYNDICUS fl It is sull of little Islands and one good large one on which is a considerable Village of Greeks At last we came to the Banks of the River which here runneth Westwards along which I found the Glycyrrhiza Echinata or Hedgehog Licorice described by Gerard 13â—0 I took notice that it had here a sweet Smell About three or four Miles from the Mouth of the Lake we arrived in about six Hours time to Lubat Lubat is situated on the other side of the River LUBAT that cometh out of the Lake which we passed over to by a Wooden Bridge But there are the Ruins of one of Stone hard by The River is here large and deep and goes hence as they say to meet with the Granicus My Companion calleth it Lupadi But as they pronounced it after the Turkish manner I took it to be Lubat He adding That Nicetas Choniâtes called it in the thirteenth Century Lupadium It hath without doubt been an antient City as the Fragments of Antiquity that lay carelesly up and down every where viz. Pillars Chapters c. or confusedly placed in the Walls do testifie The Walls were undoubtedly built by the Greek Emperours and yet are standing in a square Figure with Bastions every fifteen or twenty paces one Hexagon and the other Triangular But the South-wall Bastions are all Triangular or Cone-fashion I suppose against the Inundations of the River Whether Ferrari calleth it rightly Apollonia I do not determin But I am sure they place this Lake too near the Propontis and this City also on the wrong side of the Lake and indeed are wrong in placing it at all upon the Lake For it is upon the River about three or four Miles after it cometh out of the Lake and about five or six and thirty Miles from Prousa ad Olympum We lodged here at a Greek Fisher-Man's House who presented us with an admirable Carp take out of the River whereof it aboundeth weighing as we judged at least a dozen pound There are excellent Trouts also as the Doctor informed us he had often eaten here Friday the fifteenth we parted from Lubat early making South-wards and after seven Hours riding through the fruitful Plains of Mysia we baited at a Well near a small Village called Shettiqui We were diverted this Morning by a Haga sent as an Inquisitor after the Thieves we met with the Morning before He had at least a dozen of Servants and Friends that waited upon and accompanied him But he seemed to be better prepared to hunt Hares and Partridges than to catch Thieves For he had two brace of Grey-hounds with him and a Hawk He joyned very civilly with us and after some discourse invited us to take part of his Sport which we did he still hunting along our way in the Corn-fields We had good sport both in Coursing and Hawking We chaced three Hares and killed one and had a flight after a Partridge but without success After this he invited us to Dinner with him which our Doctor and Merchant excused being jealous of Turkish Kindness Here I first took notice That the Turkish Grey-hounds differ from ours having their Heads and Ears like a Spaniel but otherwise well made to run After we had baited we pursued our way over several Plains and Hills which often afforded us a most delightful Prospect of Mount Olympus that had now contracted it self into a much less compass proportioned
of a pleasant Plain South-ward bounded on the West with the Mountains distinguished in old times by the Names of Corycus and Coricius unto the Gulph of Colophon They are well stored with Hogs and other Chase Through this Plain we passed leaving Sediqui a little on the left hand JEMOURASI about half way to Jemourasi where we lay that Evening and were carried by our Janizary hence to see the Governour who hath a pretty convenient Seat according to the Turkish Mode and entertain'd us civilly The little Mosques and Sepulchers here are very prettily adorned with Cypress-Trees about them From hence there is a streight way over the Mountain called by the Turks the Aleman and much the nearest way of the three leading to Ephesus But our Janizary assured us That there were Robbers then abroad and that it was much the securest to go the Eastern-way although it was more about than either that by the Sea or that over the Mountain For this way keeping still the Plain they could not have the Advantage of setting on us unawares nor at a disadvantage if we did meet with them and in a word that otherways he would not venture with us We therefore took his advice and went the left hand way parting thence early in the Morning October the fifth In about an hour and half we passed a little Stream which in times past was as is believed the River Halys that runs to Colophon and emptieth it self in that Bay which sometimes upon the advantage of ground I could discern between the Mountains but perceived no such extraordinary Coldness in the Water as the antient Report of this Halys Further on the Plain we passed over four Streams more which seen to go the same way but coming nearer to the Foot of the Aleman we passed by the Ruins of an Aqueduct that cometh thence and goeth streight down to a Village TOURBALI called Tourbali a Mile or two thence on the left hand down over the Plain Which hath been thought of some to be the City Metropolis of Ionia We kept still under this Mountain on the right hand of us and sometimes passed over a paved way and through Woods in which I observed many great Turpentine Trees as big as Ashes or Oaks with us and upon the brow of the Mountain and down to the Plain whole Woods of Olive Trees growing wild I could see no difference betwen theem and the Garden-Olives of Luca They bear more Olives than the Inhabitants are able to gather to make Oyl of About noon we came to a large Burying-Place of the Turks having abundance of broken Pillars and other Marble Stones placed in the ground for Grave-Stones There we alighted to bait under a curious large Mastick Tree which hung full of drops of Turpentine which made me believe That it was only want of Industry that they made not as much profit of it on the main Land as in the Isle of Scio which hath monopolized all the Glory and Profit of that excellent Juyce But my Comrade and I were soon ransacking those Stones to see if from them we could learn any more than from the more stupid People of these parts But we found only one Stone engraven with Letters little to our purpose Yet looking still about over the Hedge just by we saw many Ruins Caves and Walls which made us think CABAGEA or METROPOLIS that this might be the City Metropolis it being not far above Mid-way from Smyrna upon that which was the Military way as the Pavement in many places yet remaining assures us and in effect our Armenian when we told him our Thoughts viz. That there had been a City there did likewise assure us That those of Cabagea about a Mile thence on the brow of the Hill told him That there had been a City there and that the word Cabagea signified a Great City and belonged properly to this Place though the Village called Cabagea consists now only of fifteen or twenty Houses yet it still continues the Name of the City as being near to the Ruins of it And probably it is not long since this Town or City hath been destroyed For hereabouts are four or five great Burying-places of the Turks which argues That in times past those places have not been so depopulated as now they are All this with the direction we took from Strabo we put together and concluded That here stood the City Metropolis in antient times It hath from the brow of the Mountain at the foot of which it is situated a good Prospect over the Plain North and East But I am not of my Comrade's opinion That this Mountain now called the Aleman was called Mimas in old time but that it is rather the Gallecius mons which Strabo puts between Colophon and Ephesus Lib. 13. but places Mons Mimas near Erythraea in the Chersonesus by Smyrna after Mons Corycus and Coracius by Argennum Promontorium and is now called The Brothers entring the Gulph of Smyrna Two or three Miles further through a desolate Wood we came to the River Caister CAISTER Fluv hard by which we saw six Horse-men coming down from the Mountain crossing the Road to way-lay us and as soon as they came to the way they stopped and ranged all on one side of the way Our Janizary rid fore-most up to them and talked a little with them In the mean time I endeavoured to pass by at a distance which the furthermost perceiving went still along with me But I kept my hand on the Cock of my Carabine and my Comrade followed a foot pace as well armed and our Janizary better than either of us both but our Armenian had only a Scimeter After a little discourse they all gabbled in the Turkish Language together wishing us a good Journey and away they went another way Our Janizary told us That they asked him what we were and whither we were going and he told them That we had nothing with us worth their taking That we were his Friends and going only to take the Air. They answered So were they and forthwith marched from us He that looked like their Chief was an Arab a large timber'd tall Fellow with a Saracen's Head They were also well arm'd with Swords Darts Bows and Spears but I perceiv'd no Fire-Arms they had which might be the great reason they did not set on us seeing us so well fitted For I believe they were such as used to pillage poor Houses and Villages not able to make resistance We were told at Ephesus That they were but part of Eighteen who thus had divided themselves in three ways from Smyrna to Ephesus viz. Six by the Sea near Scala Nova Six on the Mountains and Six this way Our Janizary pretended Acquaintance with them and that his Father had been formerly one of them and that for his sake they let us alone But whatever the instrumental Means was my Comrade and I concluded That it was the
the fresh Air. Thence we rid a quarter of a Mile further West to a little Hill on which is a Building of white Marble called Saint Paul's Prison I confess the Building is strong enough for the Name consisting of good thick Walls of well-hewen Marble and undoubtedly very antient It is divided into four Rooms and hath but one Entrance But the Convenience of the Place seems rather to argue that it was made for a Watch-Tower than for a Prison For it hath a Prospect over the whole Plain which thence with great delight I viewed and observed the City lying East-wards the Sea West-ward and the River Caister doubling it self into so many Snaky Postures over the whole Plain that it hath made some conclude it to be the Meander who had never seen the true one in Caria Hence I discovered also another small Lake on the Northern-side of the Plain and of the River with some little Hills near it And to conclude here I observed the Situation of all I have hitherto described and with great pleasure marked them on a Paper from which I have transferred them to your view That this River is the Caister is evident by all antient Testimony which the Money of Ephesus confirmeth whereof in several Medals I have seen of the Emperours Valerianus Gallienus and Salonina with two we bought at Smyrna one of which I have 58. and the other Monsieur Spon reserveth are these Letters on the Reverse ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠΚΑΥϹΤΡΟϹ with a sedent Figure representing this River holding a Reed in one hand a Cornucopia in the other and leaning on an Urn pouring out Water But now I am speaking of Medals it will not be amiss to give you an account of some others that we saw and have concerning this Place On some we find that this City was stiled The Chief City of Asia ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠΠΡΩΤΩΠΑϹΙΑϹ as one I have of Herenia Hetracilla the Reverse hath Diana in a hunting posture with her Bow in her hand having shot her Arrow and set her Dog to pursue after the Chace Her Habit is a short Vest to her Knees and Buskins half way her Legs On the Reverse of another of the Emperour Maximinus is Diana in the same posture in a Wood of Olive-Trees But my Companion hath one Medalion where Diana is represented with many Dugs as Minutius Felix observeth that the Ephesian Diana was It is of the Emperour Septimius Severus the Reverse whereof hath a sedent Figure holding another Figure standing up right in his hand made just like many antient Images I have seen at Rome full of Dugs which the Antiquaries call Dea Mammea the Goddess with Dugs and these Letters are about it ΖΕΥϹ ΑΚΡΕΙΟϹ ΠΡΩΤΩΠΑϹΙΑϹ ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠJupiter of the Rocks or Promontories of the Ephesians the principal City of all Asia Which made me believe That this Image held in his hand represented that of Diana which they feigned fell down from Jupiter and was so sacred in this Temple Another there is among Mr Faulkener's Collections which I hope one day to see again in the Oxford Library where the same Figure is joyned with Aesculapius of Pergamus with these Letters about it ΕΦΕϹΙΩΠΠΕΡΓΑΜΕÎΩΠΟΜΟÎΟΙΑ signifying a Confederacy between Pergamus and Ephesus and this was of the Emperour Gallienus When I had seen and considered all this Desolation How could I chuse but lament the Ruin of this Glorious Church To see their Candlestick and Them removed and their whole Light utterly extinguished These Objects ought to make Us that yet enjoy His Mercy tremble and earnestly contend to find out from whence we are fallen and do daily fall from bad to worse That God is a God of purer Eyes than to behold Iniquity and seeing the Axe thus long since put to the Root of the Tree Should it not make us repent and turn to God lest we likewise perish We did intend in our Return over the Mountain to have seen the Passage St Paul cut with his Sword as the honest Peasants tell But we had spent so much time here that we were afraid of losing the way and being benighted on the Mountain among those Robbers that had beset all the ways So we returned the same way we came and left Ephesus about Noon Octob. 6. after little more than a Night and half a Days stay there I remarked both coming and returning that the Brow of the Mountains were covered with Olive-Trees that the Ephesian Plain had much Tamerisk growing about it PLANTS and by the Castle I observed several great Orchards of Apricock-Trees and among the Ruins in the Castle I saw much Ricinus whereof I gathered a good quantity of Seeds Upon the Hill whereon standeth Saint Paul's Prison I sound a Tree-Frog whereof I will speak more at large hereafter as also of a sort of Arbutus the Greeks call Comarea with others at Athens Before we came to the Ionian Plains we repented of our coming from Ephesus that day For it began to be dark and our Janizary to avoid meeting Thieves left the common Road and led us such a private way that he at last lost us in the Dark and it began to thunder lighten and rain as if Heaven and Earth would dissolve And at last we were gotten into such low Grounds among the Moors that we sprang Ducks and Snipes and were in danger every minute to have our Horses laid fast We lighted our Candle and put it in a Lanthorn we carried with us and looked up and down an hour or two for the way but found it not At last we came to a little Hillock of dry Ground covered with Bushes of which with much ado we made a Fire and comforted our selves as well as we could with a Bottle of Smyrna Wine But we pitied our poor Janizary that would drink no Wine with us not had we any Water for him Yet he bore the ill Accident with greater Patience than is ordinary among such People We used all the Arguments we could to perswade him My Comrade as a Physician adviseth him but all in vain He said If he should be sick God should be his Physician But this was not for fear of breaking his Law as we understood afterwards but by reason of a particular Vow he had made which was upon this occasion He used always to have his Cellar well stored with the best Wine of the Country of which he used to drink plentifully himself and entertain the Turks his Friends But particularly once Three of his Acquaintance came to see him whom he resolving to make merry carried into his Cellar to make choice of the Wine they liked best Of which when they grew merry they began to talk of a pretty Young Maid in the Village I of whom they discoursed and drunk so long till they became so valiant at last as to resolve to go and try her Vertue which they executed notwithstanding all the Resistance the House could make and brake into the Maid's Apartment
the Banks of this River I observed great abundance of Anemonies of the dissected-leaf-kind of many colours as blue white red and purple The Mountain which make this Promontory is called by the Greeks Maurovouni MAUROVOUNI or Black Mountains Whence we passed to another Point in an Hour and half called Mauromidie but antiently Arrexius Promontory Cape MAUROMIDIE where there is another Lake or Fishing-place having communication with the Sea called by the Venetians Pescaria del Papa On this Point is the Ruins of a Watch-Tower perhaps in use when the Venetians were Masters of this Country This Place hath the advantage of a fair Prospect looking full into the Gulph of Lepanto North-East with the two Castles at its Mouth Patras almost at the bottom of the Bay made by this and the Morean Promontory of the Gulph of Lepanto or Corinth Messa-longia North a Promontory of Epirus North-West with a little Island called Courtzolari Cephalonia West Zant South-West and Castle-Tornese South From hence we crossed over to see Mr Pendarves then lading of Currans on an English Ship called the Merchant Factor riding near Messa-longia and Nathaligo These are two little Towns built like Venice upon little Islands in the Shallows of the Sea near the Shore of the antient Aetolia No Ship or Bark can come near them by four or five Miles nor to them at all unless they will fetch them in their little flat-bottom'd Boats made of one piece of Wood they therefore call Monoxylo as afore-said In which also they bring their Currans aboard coming to and fro in calm Weather as thick as Bees to a Hive Both these Towns consist for the greatest part of Christians free from the Irregular Insults of the Turks But have a Turkish Veivode over them Thence after we had the satisfaction of seeing our good Friend and of recruiting our Purses the thirtieth of December we proceeded more chearfully on our Voyage Keeping along the Shore of Aetolia we observed extraordinary great Flights of Pelicans and other Fowls and not far thence met with a Boat that was a fishing of whom besides a good dish of Fish we bought we observed among the rest a kind of Fish the Italians call Fulpo and the Greeks Octopodia because at one end spreading themselves abroad it is divided into eight long Points each of which points are full of Knobs like Warts whereby it sticketh fast to any thing it toucheth In the Center of these Feet is its place for the Evacuation of its Excrements smelling as sweet as Musk. The other end is a round lumpy Substance filled with its Garbadge whence the Italian Name seemeth to be taken Here we saw also another sort of Fish of near a foot long with a very sharp Beak and slender They call it a Needle Fish Another we saw something like an Eele for shape but the Flesh tasteth and is coloured like a Whiting They call it Grongo Another they call Barbouni which I take to be the same with our Gournits only their Beards are longer and are of a red colour like a boyled Lobster their Scales are also all in one and hard From this Point we crossed over to Patras leaving on our right hand the Promontory Mauromidie and about a dozen Miles from Patras a Town in sight of it called Mamminizza situated upon both sides of a River two or three Miles from the Sea This Village was in all likelihood the antient City Olenus and the River the antient Pirus which Pausanias puts about ten Miles from Patras Nearer to Patras one leaves the old Fortress of Achaia now slighted and as my Companion observes a Torrent whose Channel was then dry called now by the Greeks Leucas and by Pausanias Glaucos all which Places are in the Achaia of Peloponnesus To the other hand on the Romanian Shore are two very high-piked Mountains the first of which is called Gallata from a Town behind it bearing that Name which Monsieur Spon thinketh to be the antient Calydon Beyond the other Mountain we had the two Castles at the Mouth of the Gulph in sight Of Calydon Pausanias telleth this sad Love story Coresus the Priest of Bacchus fell in love with a fair Virgin of the Town called Callirhoe who the more she was courted the more she despised the Priest so that neither his rich Presents Vows nor Tears could move her to the least Compassion This at last made the Priest run in despair to the Image of Bacchus for succour imploring Vengeance from him Bacchus made it appear that he heard his Prayers by a Disease he sent on the Town which seemed a kind of Drunken Madness of which mad Fit the People died in abundance Whereupon they sent Deputies from Calydon to the Oracle of Jupiter of Dodona which was in reputation in those days amongst the Etolians Acarnanians and all the Country of Epirus to know what they should do to be freed from that woeful Malady Answer was given That Coresus must sacrifice Callirhoe or some other Person that would dedicate himself in her stead to appease the Anger of Bacchus The Virgin when she could no way obtain her Life of her Relations was brought to the Altar adorn'd as Victims used to be to be sacrificed by her Lover Coresus Whose wonderful Love even at that present so conquered all past thoughts of Revenge that instead of her he slew himself and became a Victim to generous Love instead of being any longer the Priest of Bacchus The Virgin also relenting of her Cruelty to him went and slew her self at a Fountain without the Town from thence called by her name Callirhoe But whether Gallata or the Ruins of another Town not far from thence towards Messalongia which Sr Clement Harby told me he saw there be the antient Calydon I cannot determin unless I had seen them both We arrived at Patras that Afternoon early Patras is situated upon an Hill PATRAS CERYNEA not above half a Mile from the Sea at the foot of an high Mountain which I think was called Cerynea with a Valley between It hath a Castle on the highest Point of the Hill and a Descent every way into a fruitful Valley well planted with Orange Limons and Citrons so much esteemed for their delicious Taste M. Pausa l. vii p. 448. Patras was the antient as well as the modern Name of the Place and is undoubtedly the same with that of the Romans being made a Roman Colony by Augustus Caesar after it had been for some time destroyed by more antient Fates Pausanias telleth That it was first built by one Eumelus Native of the Country who having received the manner how to build from Triptolemus as likewise Corn and how to sow it named the Place he built from his tilling the Ground Aroa Afterwards when the Ionians were driven out of the Peloponnesian Achaia one called Patreus enlarged it so that Aroa and its Walls were contained within the new Walls he made about it and the City
Consul Giraud This is a kind of Ridge of the Mountain Cithaeron that runneth out from it Eastward towards Oropus and was sometimes the Bounds of Attica and Boeotia And this Village was in old times perhaps that Harma of Attica HARMA ATTICAE mention'd by the Antients This Village had been pillaged by Pyrates not above two or three days before and they were almost frighted out of their Senses at the sight of us It is strange those Robbers should be so bold as to come so far from Sea and up so bad ways as they must needs do to come hither For from the Corinthian Gulph it is at least fifteen Miles and as much or more from that of Negropont And that they should not be able to defend themselves from so inconsiderable a number of Men as those Pyrates must needs be is as strange But the reason is That in the day-time few of the Men pertaining to that Place are at home being dispersed up and down the Mountains with their Flocks and Herds and are not permitted by the Turks to have Arms in their Houses After Dinner we passed over a Plain for two hours and a half and by the way I observed many Ponds up and down in it with plenty of Wild Ducks and Teal in them one or two of which we shot Here are also many of those Oaks I before described at Troy with great Acorns they gather Vellania from Thence we mounted again until towards Evening we came to the Top of the Mountain Parnes or Parnethes which must not be mistaken for Parnassus This is a great and high Mountain and was the more antient Bounds of the Attica before Citheron came to be so My Companion calleth it now Ozea or Noezaea and 't is very true that part of it viz. going from Attica to Negropont is called so but this is called Chasha from a Village on the side of it in the way down to the Plains of Attica so named Here we lay in a miserable ruin'd Kan without any Door or any other Accommodation belonging to it but what we brought with us only there is a very curious Fountain hard by it where the Wolves and Bears and Wild Boars come to drink to which this Mountain is yet a great Covert For it is indeed almost covered with Pine-trees of which we made a good Fire to keep us from the cold and stopped up the Entrance into the Kan to secure us from the Assaults of Wild Beasts Just by this Place BIGLA-CASTRO upon a Rock in the Passage are the Ruins of an old Castle which they now call Bigla-Castro which signifies a Watch-Tower The Walls that remain seem very antient and are well cemented together of good well hewn and hard Stone The Distance from Athens that Authors give of Phyla and the Description of Xenophon and Diodorus Siculus make me believe that this was antiently called Phyla famous for the Exploit of Thrasibulus who here began his Stratagem for regaining the Liberty of his Country Athens and Attica from the thirty Tyrants imposed on them by the Lacedemonians From this Mountain we looked down with unspeakable Pleasure and Content upon the celebrated Athens we had so long wished to be at with the noble Plains of Attica so famous in antient Story The next Morning we descended the Mountain by a narrow and dangerous way passing by a Village called Chasha about half way down From the Foot of this Mountain to Athens is a very good plain way and of about ten or a dozen Miles thither as I believe for we came not to Athens till near about Noon first passing by a Wood of Olive-trees about three Miles distant from the Town with several pleasant Villages of the Athenians in it and a River running through it This was on Friday January the Twenty-seventh We began now to think our selves come into a more civillized Country than we had yet passed For not a Shepherd that we met but bid us welcom and wished us a good Journey We went and alighted at Mr Jean Giraud's House Consul for the English at Athens who with great Humanity received and entertain'd us during our Stay there doing us all the Friendly Offices we could wish and whom in all respects we found to be a worthy honest and ingenious Man very fit for that Place understanding the Modern Languages very well Now therefore we resolved to rest us some time and to refresh our selves after our tedious and wearisom Journey from Zant. And this we had need enough to do that we might with the more Care and Exactness see view and compare all things necessary to give an Account of this Place that might not deserve so much Censure for the Truth of it as some before us have done The End of the Fourth Book THE Fifth BOOK THE DESCRIPTION OF ATHENS c. ATHENS is the chief City of that Province of Greece which was called in times past Attica a City now reduced to near the lowest Ebb of Fortune But of Fame so great that few Cities in the World can dispute Precedence with her or few pretend to have been her Equals For whether you consider her Antiquity Valour Power Learning or any other Quality that may make a Place illustrious and renowned in the World she still seems triumphant Neither hath any City had a larger share in good and bad Fortune than Athens Her People owned no Original but the Earth they inhabited and scarce allowed the Sun to be elder than they Nor would they acknowledge to have received their Name from any but their chief Goddess Minerva whom they knew by the Name of ΑΘΗÎΑ But they planted many Colonies and gave both Names and Laws to them of which Meursius reckons to the number of forty But the less credulous among them and more judicious Historians agree That Cecrops being the first that reduced the Inhabitants of Attica the Off-spring of the Carians and Aonians under a Political Government did by the same means advance himself to be their King and as the most advantageous Place of his whole Dominions which contain'd all within the Mountains Gerania Oenoa Parnes and Lycabettus that is from the Isthmus to Oropus near the Mouth of the River Asopus chose this Rock which is situated in a large Plain and near the middle of this Country to build the Metropolis of his Kingdom calling it and its whole Territory by his own Name Cecropia whereas it was called before him Actica and also Ionia from Ion the Son of Xuthus Athenoe exparte Marina 1 Bigâ—acastro 2 Temp Minerva 3 Theatrum Bacchi 4 Hag. Maria Spoliotissa 5 Hagia Maria Lycodemo 6 Aquae ductus Hadriani 8 Musaeum 9 Temp Dianae 10 Stadium 11 Temp Câ—reris noâ—nullis 12 Musae Ilissiades This they suppose came to pass not long after Deucalion's Flood Eight hundred and thirty Years before the Building of Rome and about a Thousand five hundred and eighty Years before the Incarnation of our Saviour to which
of Ambracia was Musician and That Lysippus of Arcadia made or exhibited the Play Suidas and Athenaeus mention one Lysippus as the Author of many Tragedies The Third shews That Thrasyllus Son of Thrasyllus of Dicelia was the Founder of this Building and being the Contriver of the Game or Play and himself Victor erected it for the Men of the Tribe of Hippothoon Ericus of Chalcis being Musician Naeachmus Archon and Caradomus Sotius taught the Game Naeachmus was Archon of Athens the first Year of the Hundred and fifteen Olympiad that is Four hundred thirty four Years after the Building of Rome and Three hundred twenty Years before the Coming of Christ Helvicus Chronol So this Inscription is Forty nine Years older than the two first and this a Place of very great Antiquity the Inscriptions being older than those of Duillius at Rome as Monsieur Spon observes Fulvius Vrsinus hath observed That the Terms used in these Inscriptions answer to those that are at the beginning of Terence For as here we have Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΕΧΩΡΗΓΕΙ so those of Terence have the Names of the Ediles Curules to whom the Care of these publick Plays or Exercises appertained Act a ludis Megalensibus Marco Fulvio Marco Glabrione Edilibus curulibus So here ΘΕΩΠΘΗΒΑΙΟΣ ΗΥΛΕΙ answers to Modos fecit Flaccus Claudii fillus Tiblis dextris sinistris ΠΡΟÎΟΜΟΣ ΘΗΒΑΙΟΣ ΕΔΙΔΑΣΚΕΠanswers Graeca Menandri in Terence which denotes the Author of the Comedy ÎΕΑΙΞΜΟΣ ΗΡΞΕΠshews the time by the Archons as that in Terence does by the Consuls under whom the Comedy was published or acted publickly Edita Marco Marcello Cnaeo Sulpicio Consulibus That this is very well observed is most certain but to make the Parallel agree exactly in all things there should be something in Terence that may answer ΑΓΩÎΟΘΕΤΗΣ ΘΡΑΣΥΚΛΗΣ ΕÎΙΚΑ c. or else it will not prove these Inscriptions were erected to the Honour of Comedians but to Victors in the Athletick Games and this Place to have been dedicated to the Publick Use of those Athleticks wherein a Victory was to be gain'd and lost by different Parties as it is remarkable in these Inscriptions For in the Third the Place was built to the Men appertaining to the Tribe of Hippothoon the Tribe of the Founder of the Edifice who was also the Institutor of the Game and Victor in it In the First and Second nine and forty Years after that the Lads of the same Tribe of Hippothoon had the Victory the People being at the Cost of the Play and that under the same Archon also those of the Tribe of Pandion won the Prize Here is still you see some Victory some Prize won or lost So that this could not properly belong to Comedies or Tragedies wherein no Prize is set for them that do best no Victory of any sides nor any one really Victor But in Athletick Games usually the Combatants are single Persons or opposite Parties who try for the Mastery hand to hand one with another And that this was really so the word Agonothetes puts it out of question For those Games had such an Officer belonging to them and always attending upon them to regulate them and see the Laws of each particular Game duly observ'd that none might strive for Victory by any undue or disallowed Means But whoever heard of such an Officer belonging to the Scene Therefore my Opinion is That this was a Gymnasium or part of one at least built for the Use of the Tribe of Hippothoon by the Munificence of Thrasyllus but that afterwards other Tribes were admitted also to contend for the Prize as it is apparent that those of the Tribe of Pandion were who had the Victory forty Years after This Grotto is a pretty large Place within and hath two Cells one above another Above this Grotto are two Pillars standing upright of the Corinthian Order but the Leaves are different from the Thistle-Leaves of that Order being long and smooth at the Edges After we turned about the Eastern end of the Castle and came to another Grotto made by Nature in the Rock without either Ornament or Art used to beautifie it which is more likely to be the Grotto of Pan and Apollo according to the forementioned Authors but agrees not with Pausanias It is seen from the Consul's House almost in the middle of the Town which lieth North off the Cittadel From this end of the Castle HADRIAN'S PILLARS South-Eastwards are those tall and beautiful Pillars called Hadrian's Pillars and are commonly reputed to be the Remains of his Palace and were very probably the greatest Ornament of it if not of the City too when the whole Structure thereof was entire But my Comrade and I are not of their Opinion that believe his Palace was built on the top of them for that doubtless would prove too really a Castle built in the Air They being about Fifty two foot high comprehending the Chapters and Basis They are of the Corinthian Order chanelled and of admirable white Marble They are also seventeen foot nine inches about Their Bases are of two great Stones apiece whereof the first is three foot nine inches deep and square eight foot nine Inches and a half the next eight foot four inches and a half square and of equal depth with the undermost But seventeen of these Pillars remain upright yet by the Plane we found that there must have been six Rows of them and twenty in each Row which therefore must be that Hundred and Twenty Pausanias speaketh of as built by the Emperour Hadrian of Phrygian Marble being whiter than that of Pentelycus And certainly this was a Work alone that may sufficiently justifie the Liberality of Hadcian and the great care he took to adorn this City For this must needs have been a wonderful Portico both for Beauty Use and Grandeur Pausanias says That it was inclosed with a Cloyster in which were built Rooms of the same Stone only the Roofs of Alabaster gilded with Gold and the whole excellently adorned with Statues and Pictures That here was the famous Library that Emperour collected and a Gymnasium bearing his Name where undoubtedly were celebrated the Games Adrianalia instituted by him and mentioned in several Monuments there and particularly on this at the Church of Georgopico Which signifies That Marcus Tullius of Apamea in Bithynia Citizen of Athens Corinth Smyrna the only Man among the Athleticks that ever overcame in all the following Games viz. Panellenia Olympia Isthmia Adriania Romia with a matter of one and twenty more marked upon Urns and Shields whereof most of the Names are defaced This Man saith the Inscription having born away all the Games Prizes and other the most difficult Exercises died in the two and thirtieth Year and third Month of his Age having this Monument erected to him by his Brother Marcus Tullius Eutyches But Klitoris gave the Place for it to be erected on ΜΑΡΚΟΣ ΤΥΛΛΙΟΣ .... ΑΠΑΜΕΥΣ ΤΗΣ ΒΙΘΥÎΙΑΣ ΑΘΗÎΑΙ ΟΣ
ΚΟΡΙÎΘΙΟΣ ΣΜΥΡÎΑΙΟΣ ΜΟÎΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΩΤΟΣ ΤΩΠΑΠΑΙΩÎΟΣ ΠΥΚΤΩΠÎΕΙΚΗΣ ΑΣ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΕΞΗΣ ΠΑÎΕΛΛΗÎΙΑ ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ ΙΣΘΜΙΑ ΑΔΡΙΑÎΕΙΑ ΡΩΜΗ ... ΕÎΙΚΑ ΔΕ ΘΕΜΑΤΙΚΟΥϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΑΛΑÎΤΙ ΟΥϹ ΑΓΩÎΑϹ ΤΡΙΑΚΟÎΤΑ ΠΕÎΤΕ ΕΤΕ .. ΤΑ ΕΤΩΠΤΡΙΑΚΟÎΤΑ ΔΥΟ ΜΗΠΩΠΤΡΙΩΠΜΑΡΧΟΣ ΤΥΛΛΙΟΣ ΕΥΤΥΧΗΣ ΕΠΟΙΕΙ ...... ΑΔΕΛΦ .. ΤΟΠΟΠΕΔΩΚΕ ΚΛΕΙΤΟΡΙϹ About this Gymnasium were an hundred Pillars of Aegyptian Marble It is hard to determine whether the Temple of Jupiter Olympius was here or no and whether the Plane of this Portico of an hundred and twenty Pillars was any more than part of it For the whole place environing them is very large as appears by the Foundations of the Walls which are of good Stone well hewn and upheld with strong Buttresses the Plane of these Pillars being only an Oblong in the middle of it Pausanias also mentions that Temple both before and just after this promiscuously But I suppose it was in another place of which more hereafter I remember that I took the Dimensions of the Plane of this Place but find them not among my Papers Under those Pillars that yet stand with their Architraves on them is a little Church built out of pieces of Pillars and other Rubbish very badly without any Chalk or Lime but rudely laid together which I should not have mentioned had not Monsieur Guiliter called it the Temple of Jupiter and Juno Panhellenii than which scarce any thing can be more ridiculous The truth of it is such a Temple might be some where in this Quarter For Adrian built a great way about here along the River Ilissus and North-Eastward towards Mount St George or Anchesmus and called it his Town as the Inscription on the Gate of white Marble between these Parts and the rest of the City testifie For towards the City it is written in Greek This is Athens in times past the City of Theseus and on that side looking toward the Pillars But this is Adrian's and not the City of Theseus Lib V Porta Hadriani This Gate looks awry towards the Plane of the Pillars without any right Angle in respect of the Wall although it seems to lead towards it This Quarter of the City was called also New Athens as we learned by part of an Inscription on an Aqueduct under Mount Saint George which may be from hence near a Mile Lib V Aquaeductus Hadriani On the South-side of the Mountain HADRIAN'S ' AQUEDUCT on a piece of an Architrave of Marble sustain'd by two Ionick Pillars which though it is but a part I easily comprehended by it what the Figure of the whole should be the one half of it being gone My Companion copied it all at Spalatro out of a Manuscript Two hundred Years old and is as you may see it in this Figure Gruterus places it at Milan in Italy but by what Mistake I know not For here is the first half of it and shews that it was begun by Adrian in the New Athens and finished by his Son Antoninus Pius I believe this was only the Frontispiece of the Repository or Receiver of the Water For behinde it is a Place large and almost square filled up with Dirt and Rubbish and looks as if it had been a Cistern cut out of the Rock Nor are the Ionick Pillars of this Architrave above half way to be seen above ground Concerning New Athens at Delos I have there already spoken One day we elimbed this Mountain which is a Rock very steep craggy and difficult to be mounted But being gat up is the most eminent and perspicuous Place of the whole Plain of Athens and from whence I securely observed every be 〈◊〉 Object 〈…〉 that only 〈◊〉 the South West-side of the 〈◊〉 excepted I wish I could make you tast the same Satisfaction 〈…〉 Prospect â—hat I then 〈◊〉 and still do when I consider it It seemed to me a more 〈◊〉 Seat of the Muses than the other Hill where Mâ—â—saeus himself chose to inhabit Here either a Democritus might sit and laugh at the Pomps and Vanities of the World whose Glories so soon vanish or an Heraclitus weep over the manifold Misfortunes of it telling sad Stories of the various Changes and Events of Fate This would have been a Place to inspire a Poet as the brave Actions performed within his view have already exercised the Pens of great Historians Here like Virgil he might have sate and interwoven beautiful Descriptions of the Rivers Mountains Woods of Olives and Groves of Lemons and Oranges with the celebrated Harbours on the Shore and Islands sometimes Kingdoms in the Saronick Sea all lying spread before him as on a Map Which I was contented to do only in Contemplation and with a Sea-compass to mark out the most considerable Places on Paper Adrian's Pillars are seen from this high Rock South-West The STADIUM and East of them but South South-West West from hence over the River Ilissus we saw the Stadium looking like a small Hill The way to it from the Town is by an antient Bridge of three Arches built cross the Ilissus of large hewn Stone laid firm together without Mortar and is about forty foot long On this Bridge was formerly a great Monastery but now forsaken since the Turks took Athens The Stadium was the Place where antiently they ran Races fought wild Beasts and celebrated those other publick Games of All-Attica called Panathenia It was probably here that they chased the Thousand Wild Beasts which Adrian every Year gave to the People for their Divertisement It s Figure and bigness continue although the Degrees be all taken away It is a long Place with two parallel sides closed up circularly at the East end and open towards the other end and is about One hundred twenty five Geometrical Paces long and Twenty six or Twenty seven broad which gave it the Name of a Stadium that length being the ordinary measure among the Greeks eight of which made a Roman Mile Mt Vernon measuring it exactly found it to be Six hundred and thirty English feet long and a just Stadium is Six hundred Twenty five foot of Athenian Measure which it seems was but very little bigger than the English but lesser than the French foot When Pausanias comes to speak of this Place he tells his Readers That they would hardly believe what he was about to tell them it being a Wonder to all those that did see it in antient times and of that bigness that one would judge it a Mountain of white Marble upon the Banks of the River Ilissus It was Herodes Atticus one of the richest Citizens Athens ever had that built it to do which he consumed much of the Marble of Mount Pentelicus which now being either all carried away or buried in the Ruins of the Place it looks now only like a great and high Bulwark cast up in that Form At the End towards Ilissus there appears yet some Stone-work the rest is now but a Stadium of Earth above Ground This was the same Herodes
because speaking of Eridanus out of Callimachus There are as they say indeed saith he those Springs of pure and potable Water without those Gates they call Diochorus near that side of the City where the Lycaeum is Not far from which some Body built a Fountain well furnished with good Water which if it now remains not though antiently full of Water clear and fit to drink as being chang'd and corrupted in succeeding times what wonder is it And even Pausanias himself if rightly understood doth not call that other River Eridanus That which he saith is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Ilissus saith he and another River of the same Name with the Celtick Eridanus which falls into the Ilissus are the Rivers that glide to the Athenians And not as the Translator of Pausanias saith Amnes in Atticâ nobiles Cephisus in eum cadens Eridanus Where he hath mistaken Attica for Athens and given those Streams the Title of Eminence without Pausanias his order That Eridanus falls into the River Ilissus is very properly said of this Stream of Cyrie Jani but not of the other For the other is a much larger Stream still well supplied with Water lies much lower than Ilissus or this and runs in a streight Line within its own Chanel although sometimes divided by Art And Ilissus being little more than a Torrent may properly be said to fall into that on the West side of the City but not that into Ilissus This only of Cyriani can be properly said to fall into the Ilissus because it riseth much higher than it Neither can that other River be so properly said to belong to Athens as these it running two or three Miles from it out of Town But these most properly because they ran by the Walls and from their Springs it is evident the Town hath still been served with Water as the Remains of Hadrian's Aqueduct and Cistern of Waters under Anchesmus and the New Aqueducts under ground to the Town do manifest If any have better Reasons for the contrary Opinion I shall be glad to see them and submit to them but till then I shall suppose this of Cyriani to be Eridanus and so call it in my Map Going down the Stream along the Ilissus beyond the Stadium and Pillars of Hadrian is another little Marble Building now dedicated to Panagia or the most Holy Virgin and as some will have it was antiently the Temple of Ceres and perhaps they may have their Reasons too of which I am yet ignorant But Pausanias seemeth to joyn that to another Temple at the other side of the Town coming in by the place Ceramica But this Author is not altogether so regular in his Descriptions of Places as it might be wished This Church hath been painted formerly according to the Greek manner that is with no great Art but is now quite defaced Descending yet a little further by the River some Rocks seem to stop its Course whereby the Water begins to appear again and settle in a kind of Pool upon the Rocks In great Rains I judge the Water in the Pools overflows but while we were there it was dry Weather and did not but finding some Subterraneous Passage by or under the Rocks after a little way it breaks out again and makes a Fountain Which we supposed to be the Callirrhoe of former times or rather the same which in Pausanias is called Halirrhothium because the Inhabitants of this Place give unto this Fountain a Name in sound not much unlike unto it calling it Calliro But this I confess I know not how to justifie by the Authority of Pausanias although he speaks of that Fountain three several times The Turks after their Mode have accommodated two Fountains to this Spring I take Calliro or Caliro to be only an Abreviation of Galo Nero signifying Good Water Supposing Callirrhoe to be at another Place of which I shall have occasion to speak before I conclude this Account of Athens Hard by this are some Turkish Gardens and a Summer-house belonging to one of them inhabiting in the Town Below them on the further side of the River is another little Temple on the top of a small Rock But to which of the Gods it was dedicated in times past I see nothing to inform me At present it is consecrated to the Holy Virgin and they call it Hagia Maria that is Saint Maries Near to this passeth the way that leads to Capo Colonni Lib. V 4 Fig. praaesderites Quadriga Triumphahs in qua Vir togatus Beyond this the Chanel begins to turn Westward MUSAEUM and so bends its course until it passeth between two Hills the North-most of which lyeth West-South West from my station on Mount St George and hath the minoret of the Mosque or Temple of Minerva in the same line between and is not far distant from the Castle This was the Hill called in times past the Musaeum from the Poet Musaeus Disciple of Orpheus who there used to recite his Verses My Comrade saith He hath an Inscription that makes this Musaeus the Son of Eumolpus whereas Suidas makes Eumolpus the Son of Musaeus and Musaeus the Son of Antiphemus but that there was indeed another Eumolpus Grandfather to Musaeus and Descendants often took the Names of their Ancestors That Marble tells us also That his Sepulchre was at the Port Phalera But Paufanias says He was buried here when he died of great age The Inhabitants call this Hill To Seggio and some Francks The Hill of the Arch of Trajan from a Monument of Antiquity upon it where indeed something is to be read touching that Emperour but not any thing to justifie that naming of the place It is a Structure of admirable white Marble and no less curious Work built a proportionable height something circular In the middle was a large Niche with a Figure of Marble sitting in it and under his Feet in great Letters ΦΙΛΟΠΑΠΠΟΣ ΕΠΙΦΑÎΟΥΣ ΒΗΣΑΙΕΥΣ Philopappus Son of Epiphanes of Besa a Town of Attica On the right hand of this is another square Niche with a sedent Figure within having these Letters under it ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ ΑÎΤΙΟΧΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΣ ΑÎΤΙΟΧΟΥ King Antiochus Son of King Antiochus On the left hand we judge was another Statue to make up the Symmetry of the place but now fallen down Between the two Statues upon a kind of Pilaster part of the Work we discerned another Inscription which I climbed up to read whilst my Companion copied it It is in Latine and says thus much Caius Julius Philopappus Son of Caius of the Tribe of Fabia Consul Frater Arvalis chosen among the Praetors by the most good and August Emperour Caesar Nerva Trajanus who conquered the Germans and Dacians This explains what Pausanias doth but obscurely mention saying In the same place the Athenians had raised a Monument in Honour of a certain Syrian who was without doubt this Philopappus For although he is here nominated of Besa a Village of Attica yet had his Original
be our Agiati or Guide called Jani who furnished us with three Horses for ten Timins a day that is about three Shillings Six-pence English Money he himself finding them Meat He was an admirable Fellow for our purpose following us always on foot and if he saw any old Church or Building near the way he would presently run to it to see if he could find any Inscription or other mark of Antiquity upon it which if he did he would immediately call out to us Scrittione Scrittione He was so used to his work both by the Consul and us that he seldom made us lose out labour If he saw any Flower or Plant that he thought was not common he would not fail to gather it and bring it to me saving me often the labour of lighting from my Horse to gather those I observed my self And he did indeed so accommodate himself to our curiosity that we had all the reason in the World to be well satisfied with him who served us so well Our Consul also was so kind to us as to lend us his Druggerman armed with his Barrat or Licence from the Grand Seignior to secure us against Examinations and other hazards we might meet with from the Turks and was so civil as to accompany us himself as far as Eleusis Thus on Shrove Tuesday in the Morning being the 5th of February 1675 6 directing our course North-Westwards from Athens we passed again the Olive-yards leaving the way to Colouri on the left hand In an hour and halfs riding over the Plain of Athens we began to ascend the Hill now called Daphne from the abundance of Oleanders that grow there they call Picra-Daphne or Bitter Laurel This Hill begins in the way from Thebes to Athens and ends at the Promontory that makes the Streight between Salamis and it It is divided by this way into two high Points whereof that towards the Sea was undoubtedly that which Strabo calls Coridalis mons the other Thucydides calls Aegalis Mounting between these two tops of the Hill in half an hour we came to an antient Convent of Caloyers seated between the Ridges on it called also Daphne It is about half way to Eleusis and founded as they say by the fair penitent Magelone 'T is fenced with high Walls about it but for all that it is so infested by the Turks and Corsairs that there is seldom found above one or two Caloyers in it the rest being retired commonly to an Hermitage up higher among the Rocks of the Mountain For it is a great Road that way to the Morea and consequently haunted by the unruly Turks passing that way and the Corsairs often visit it because it is within half an hours riding to the Sea-side The Church here is dedicated to the most holy Virgin and hath been a Fabrick very beautiful having a large Cuppalo in the middle of it encrusted within with antient Mosaick Work of which the Picture of our Saviour is yet remaining Without the Gate is a Well of very good fresh Water from whence we descended between the two Ridges of the Hill and in less than half an hour came to the Sea-side Whence winding about the Bay which from Porto-Lione and the Streight of Salamis runneth in Northwards we came to a little Lake of Salt and Bituminous Water running out into the Sea by a little Stream called by Pausanias Scirus The Lake seems to be the Rhaeti alvei mentioned by Pausanias to be the antient Bounds between the Athenians and Eleusinians not between Attica and Eleusis as either the Interpreter or Printer of Pausanias mistakes There is a Hill also North of it which had a Town on it and both called Scirus A little further we came to the River Cephisus which then was but a little Stream but after Rains and melting of the Snow from the Mountains it swells so big that it overflows a good part of the Plains It comes down from the Mountain Parnes-ward and from those towards the Eleutherians and Mount Cithaeron It is now called only Palaeo-milo from an old Mill that stood there in times past But now nothing remains of it save only the Pool that poured in the Water But higher it hath yet some Mills under the Mountain Daphne along the foot whereof it keeps its Course This is that Cephisus Pausanias mentions which must not be any ways confounded with that Strabo speaks of which runneth West of the City of Athens which some by mistake call Eridanus of which elsewhere There is another Cephisus in Boeotia that empties it self into the Lake Copais and at Sycion another that falls into the Gulph of Gorinth now called the Gulph of Lepanto On this side of the Eleusinian Cephisus Paus in Attic. as Pausanias well distinguisheth it from the other was the Sepulcher of Theodorus a famous Tragedian and on the Banks of it were the Statutes of Mnesitheus and his Son who consecrated the Hair of his Head to the River Cephisus being the Custom of the Greeks in those days to make that Offering to the Rivers they esteemed their Gods Having passed the Stream we continued our way over a spacious Plain along a Causway paved with large Stones which then was beautified with Anemonies of all sorts of Colours mixed and shaded between White and Scarlet and between a deep Blue and White This was called the Via Sacra in antient times from the great Processions made by the Athenians unto the sacred Mysteries of Ceres at Eleusis We observed many Ruins as we went along it of Churches or Temples especially one about some two Miles beyond the River which we judg'd to be that of the Cyamites so called as Pausanias thinketh from some Hero of that Name who first taught them to sow Beans there For 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifies a Bean. About a Mile further we saw the Ruins of another Temple of which one Panel of Wall was only standing of a greyish-colour'd Sone which we therefore judg'd might be some Temple of Venus which Pausanias saith was of ordinary Stone Just at the Ruins of Eleusis is a little Church dedicated to St George which hath standing about it some beautiful Pillars chanelled and of the Ionick Order as I knew by their Chapters which lay not far off from thence Before it are two great round Stones either for the Basis to Pillars or Pedestals for Statues with Inscriptions on each of them but much defaced This without doubt was the Temple of Diana Propylaea so called because her Temple was situate without the Gates of the City Eleusis One of these Inscriptions speaks of one Nicostrata Daughter of Meneo ..... of the Town Berenicida initiated into the Mysteries of Ceres and Proserpina For I take 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to signify Proserpina the Daughter of Ceres ηΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΞΑΡΕΟΠΑΓΟΥ χΠυ Î .... δηΜΟΣ ÎΙΚΟΣΤΡΑΤΗΠΜΕÎÎΕΟ ....... βΕΡÎΕΙΚΙΔΟΥ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ ΜΥΗΘΕΙΣΑΠ..... ΑΦΕΣΤΙΑΣ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗ ΑÎΕΘΗΚΕ ΕΠΙΜΕΛΗΘΕÎΤΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΑÎΑΘΕΣΙΑΩΣ ΤΟΥ ΕΠΙΤΡΟΠΟΥ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΑΙΟΥ ΚΑΣΙΟΥ ΣΗΜΑΚΙΔΟΥ
are watered by the Rivulet Ornea running down from the Mountains that bound this Plain South and South-Westwards and from thence I believe runs into the River Nemea which we past about mid-way by a Bridge This River then was not very considerable but after rains is poured down from the Mountains in such abundance that it fills many Channels on each side of it which before were dry In our way we passed by many little Villages and arrived at Basilico after three hours riding Basilico or as some call it Basilica was in old time a great City called Sicyon When the Kingdom of the Morea was under the Tenetians it was a considerable Town now it is but a heap of Ruins and Inhabited only by three Families of Turks and about as many Christians This final destruction one of the Inhabitants told us happened about twenty years ago by the Plague which they held to be a Judgment of God upon the Turks for profaning one of the Christian Churches there turning it into a Mosque by Command of the Vaivode who fell down dead upon the place the first time he caused the Alchoran to be read in it whose Death was followed soon after with such a Pestilence as in a short time utterly destroyed the whole Town which could never since be re-peopled It is situated upon a Hill about three Miles from the Gulph of Lepanto and hath the River Asopus running under it on the East-side on which are some Powder-Mills as they told us which are the first I ever saw in Turkey There remaineth abundance of Ruins both ancient and modern The Wall of the Castle many Churches and some Mosques and a good way off the Castle Westwards is a Ruin they call the Kings Palace which seems to be very ancient but made of Bricks I take it to have been a Bath from the many Chanels down the Wall to bring Water Beyond that at a good distance is a Hill formed Semicircular I believe by Art and to have been a Theater or Stadium There are also abundance of Caverns and Vaults in the ground which we could not stay to examine with any exactness but returned part of our way towards Corinth that Evening and lay at a little Village about midway The next Morning we passed along the shore by several little Lakes and the ancient Port of Corinth called Lechaeum now quite choked up We left Corinth about two Miles off on the right hand and went two or three Miles further to a Village they call Heximillia where we spent the rest of a wet day because we could not reach to Megara that Night nor was there any where to lodge at in the way This Village is called Heximillia because the Isthmus at this place is six Miles wide The next day we came early to Megara and the day following to Athens The Plants I took notice of and gathered in the Isthmus are these 1. Sea-Pines with small Cones 2. Wild Olive-Trees 3. Lentiscus grown to the bigness of Trees 4. Much of the Horncod-Tree or Keratia 5. A Tree called by the Greeks Kedros It is very like Sabina baccifera but here it groweth to an extraordinary bigness tall and streight up like a Tree But I could perceive no difference between it and Sabina Baccifera besides For the Berries and green of both are alike 6. Cedrus Lyciae part of whose Leaves are like Sabina Baccifera and part like Juniper 7. Scabiosa argentea petraea or Silver-colour'd rock-scabious It is a little shrub with long and narrow silver-colour'd Leaves the Flowers I saw not 8. Aristolachiae Clematitis Species Of which before 9. Linaria Latifolia Valentiana Clusii It is a kind of Toad-flax with broad Leaves and the Flowers are of several Colours Blue Yellow and White which look very beautiful 10. Androsemum Vmbelliferum of which before 11. Scorzonera rotundâ radice as before Before I quit Attica I shall here insert another Journey I made to the Promontory Sunium although I did it another time after my Camerade and I had parted in Greece that what I have to say of the Attica may be together Consul Giraâ—d and a Merchant of Micone were so kind to let me have their Company We set out in Easter-Week and resolved to take Port-Raphti in our way to which our Road lay directly Eastwards from Athens We passed by Mount Saint George on our left hand about a Mile and made towards the end of Mount Hymettus which we left on the right hand about four Miles from Athens About six Miles from Athens we saw on the left hand a Village called Agopi where beginneth the Plain of Mescigia which is all that Tract of Land that is between Hymettus and Promontorium Sunium called in times past Paralia and was the Portion of Pallas another of the Sons of Panthion â—e came and Dined at a little Cell belonging to the Covent Kyriana called Metochi which signifieth a Farm where some Caloiroes live to Husband their grounds After Dinner we took Horse and continued our Journey until we came to Porto Raphti which is esteemed eighteen Miles from Athens But I do not believe it above fourteen or fifteen PORTO RAPHTI The Bay that maketh this Harbour is situated on the Eastern shore of Attica and hath the highest point of Mount Hymettus Northwest by North. The Southern Promontory of Negropont East It is divided into two little Baies by a sharp point that runneth into the middle of it and it hath two little Islands or Rocks towards the Mouth the biggest of which lieth East South-East off from the middle point and giveth the name to the Harbour from a Colossian Statue of White Marble representing a Taylor cutting Cloth which the Greeks call Raphti These secure the Port against all Winds coming from the Sea so that it is not only a secure Port but they say so convenient that hardly any Wind can blow but Ships may both go out and come in with the same I believe this Port was anciently called Panormus from whence the Athenians were wont to fail to Delos to carry the Mysteries of Apollo sent down through all Greece from the Hyperboreans Here are also the Ruins of a Town upon the shore which was the Town called anciently 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Prassae being the Harbour where in former times twenty Sail of the Issadâ— join'd with the Roman Fleet when they were called to help the Athenians against Philip King of Macedon We turned a little to the right hand thence and after we had rode about six Miles further we came to a Village called Marcopoli MARCOPOLI The Ruins hard by it shews it to have been a considerable place in old time but now it hath not above twenty or thirty Houses remaining Perhaps it was anciently the Town Aegilia of the Tribe of Antïoch Strabo calleth them Aeginenses but Meursius corrects him out of Suidas and Stephanus In some ruined Churches I found a few inconsiderable Inscriptions upon Pillars and
Sepulchral Monuments The next Morning early we parted thence and after about three hours riding came to a desolate Church but kept in repair by the Villages about it every one of which have an Olive Tree planted by it I suppose to serve for Oyl for the Lamps in the Church Before the Church at the West end of it is the Tomb of the Founder of the Church upon which among the Stones is an ancient Basso-relievo of a Woman in a sedent posture Here groweth the biggest Lentiscus Tree I ever saw Out of several places of the Body of it Tears of Mastick Issued Which convinced me that not only at Scio but in all these parts they would yield Mastick if they were cultivated I guess also that hereabouts the Town Anaphylista was situated if not at the Town following to which after an hour and a halfs riding thence Southward we came being called Kerateia from the Karobs of which I saw several Trees growing wild This hath been an ancient and great City and did preserve it self considerable until destroyed by the Corsairs about fifty or threescore years ago They had their Epitropi or Archontes until then who did wear High-crown'd Hats like those of Athens I could discern here where an Amphitheater had been by the Foundations and some other remains of it In the Church I found an Inscription which I believe would have given me some light concerning the Antiquity of the place had it been better preserv'd From this place we were three long hours before we arriv'd at Promontorium Sunium the way being very rocky and bad up-hill and down-hill all along About midway we past over a little Mountain where in times past they digged much Silver and now some Copper out of which they say the Goldsmiths of Athens at present separate a considerable quantity of Silver LAURIUM But they let not the Turks know so much lest the Grand Signior should impose the Slavery of digging in the Mines upon them I saw abundance of Cinders lying up and down in the wayes which assured me that in times past they had digg'd great quantities of Metals there Xenophon calls this Mountain Laurium Pausanias and many other Authors mention it But whether there was a Town called by the same name I know not But if so it was done by Xenophons Counsel who advised them to build a Castle there lest the Mines should be neglected in time of War But if before I believe it was nearer the Sea-side where there is a kind of Harbour for Boats to pass over to Macronisa Promontorium Sunium is now called by the Francks Capo Colonni from the White Pillars of the Temple of Minerva PROM SUNIUM or CAPO COLONNI that yet remain on the point of it being seen a great way from Sea The Temple is situated on the top of an high Rock running far into the Sea Nine Dorick Pillars are standing on the South-West side of it and five on the opposite side At the South end remain two Pilasters and part of the Pronaos upon which are Engraven many names ancient and modern The Temple seems to have been inclosed in a Castle by the Foundations of the Walls below which are other Foundations of Walls which were undoubtedly the Town Sunium which was reckoned one of the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Burgess-Towns of the Athenians On the right hand it hath a little Bay which was its ancient Port But it is now quite deserted as well as the little Island Patroclea lying about a quarter of a Mile South-West off it They say here grows some Ebany yet but much destroyed by the Corsairs Whence it is that some call this place Ebanonisi or the Isle of Ebany Others call it still Patroclea but most call it Guidronisa The bad weather this day was a great prejudice to the good Prospect I otherwise should have had from hence of most of the Islands of the Archipelago notwithstanding which I observed with my Compass as followeth 1. The further end of Macronisa anciently called Helena North-East the hither end East 2. Zea one end East the other South-East 3. Thermia beginneth South-East endeth South-South-East 4. Seriphanto or Seripho a little more South-South-East 5. Antimilo South by East 6. Sant Georgio de Albero South-West 7. Capo Schillo or Promontorium Schillaeum West-South-West 8. The highest point of Aegina West North-West 9. I found a shrub growing hereabouts which hath Leaves and smell something like Stoechas Arabica But not so strong The Flowers then blowen were like Rosemary I keep it dried but I have not yet found what to call it We were forced to return on our way back again from the Promontory that Evening because we could have neither Meat Drink nor Lodging near that place We directed our course therefore more towards the Shore of the Saronick Gulph than we did at our coming and that Evening came to some Shepherds belonging to the Convent of Pendely where with all the Covert they had we could scarce sit dry it was such bad weather and our Inn being only a Tent made of a Hedge o◠Faggots covered with some Blankets over them Not far from thence toward the Sea is a Town situated upon a Hill METROPIS called Metropis which were probably the Azenenses Strabo placeth next before the Promontory Sunium The next Morning we parted early and after ten or a dozen Miles riding we came to the Ruins of a Town built on a Rock called Enneapyrgae or Nine Towers from so many Towers formerly standing on the Rock This is near a Bay of the Gulph which I believe was anciently called Hyphormus Portus and the Town it self 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Lampra Maritima or Inferior For there was another Lampra called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Superior which without doubt was the ruin'd Town about three or four Miles more towards the Midland called yet Lambra for so the Greeks pronounce 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is LAMER π after μ as we do b. At this last we sate down and dined and after Dinner we kept on something North-Westwards thorough a good and well cultivated Plain to two or three Houses in the Fields they call Fillia The distance from Athens and resemblance of the name makes me believe it was hereabouts the ancient Phlya stood which in times past was a place adorn'd with many Temples especially of Diana Lucifera if Pausanias does not confound it with 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Phyla on Mount Parnes where also was an Altar to Diana 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 dedicated by Thrasibulus when in a dark Night he was conducted to Munichia by a light he attributed to Diana at that time when he went to deliver the City from the thirty Tyrants the Spartans had then imposed upon the Athenians Thence we turned yet a little further North-Westwards and came into the way to Athens passing between two Ridges of the Mountain Hymettus that on the left hand being
communicated to the curious among the rest of our Remarks to make the account going under both our names as much the Relation of both as I could As to the matter contained in this Book I find no reason I have to be ashamed of it although I do not expect it should escape censure For I know some will say why does he treat us with insipid descriptions of Weeds and make us hobble after him over broken stones decayed buildings and old rubbish But these being things their curiosity does not extend to I should but trifle in giving them a serious Answer Others perhaps may not be pleased that I have made Divine Reflections on the various events of things and Phaenomena of nature As to men of this irreligious temper I make no other answer but that I design'd to write as a Christian Traveller and Philosopher and if my Book be unacceptable to them because it savours of my Religion they may leave it as they do their Bibles to others who will like it better upon that account As to the Title not only Gratitude but Justice also requires that I should join Monsieur Spon's name with mine since he did me the same respect in his and we made the Voyage together And in composing this Treatise I have all along had an Eye to his still comparing my notes with his having for the greatest part seen the same things which he did What I find Monsieur Spon hath omitted I have supplied and on the other side what material things I found I had neglected in my own Journal I added out of his Book if I well remembred them When I met with any things to be mistakes I have as freely corrected them and in dubious Criticisms I have given my own Opinion and Reason The Observations which I made and are not to be met with in Monsieur Spon are various and scattered throughout the whole Book But the chiefest are first the Plants I have described on which subject he hath not at all concerned himself My Map of Achaia also I have added which I made out of my own particular Observations I took on the places for that purpose Divers Medals and other Antiquities I have by me since sent from Athens to me and observed after we parted from each other as they lay in my method and made for my purpose I have inserted in this account As to the curious Plants I would have added more Cuts most of them which I have described being either unknown or very rare in our parts but indeed the Bookseller was very unwilling to be burthened with them the change of Graving being too great for his profit The Map of Achaia I have spoken of may need some things to be said in its behalf since the Position of the whole Scheme of it is so different from all the Maps of those parts we have extant to answer for which I will give an account of my Delineation of it being a way perhaps unusual in describing of Land-Maps The Observations I had made being taken by the help of a Mariners Needle from several stations on divers Mountains and eminent places of that Country I thereby easily reduced their Positions into Triangles and thereby could hardly miss of their natural situations nor yet to have a proportionable distance from one another according to a scale of parts proposed from any one or two several known distances Which though it be but an ordinary rule in surveighing yet in those Countries where from a Mountain one may see twenty thirty forty and fifty miles about it may prove of more use and certainty than all the rest of the Geographical Art of Longitudes in the World To this I had also the advantage of the Latitudes Mr. Vernon had with all exactness taken of the most eminent places contained therein as of Patras Delphus Thebes Chalcis or Egripo Corinth and Athens By adding which to the Observations made with the Needle I found I could not miss of much more exactness than ever could yet be arrived at by conjectural Longitudes whether of the ancient or modern Geographers For the Bearing of two places of different Latitudes being given one cannot miss of a proportionable distance according to the scale of Latitude if from the one you follow the Bearing to the Latitude of the other For there is but one individual point on a Plane that can be the same Latitude and the same Bearing from another Latitude As for Example Thebes is 38. D. 22. M. L. Chalcis is 38. D. 31. M. L. So there is nine Minutes difference in Latitude But the Bearing from Chalcis to Thebes is W. S. W. So a Scale of Latitudes being described by Parallel Lines and Chalcis being placed thereon in 38. D. 31. M. L. Draw a Line thence directly W. S. W. and wheresoever it cuts the line of Latitude 38. D. 22. M. there must be the point where Thebes must be situate For any other point or distance but that alters either the Latitude or Bearing against the Hypothesis When I had thus set down the places of principal note especially those Cities with the Mountains Rivers Promontories and Harbours the other places according to their Bearings and reputed distances of Miles from the first I regulated as well as I could Which so near as their reputed distances come to the truth so near must they be to the true Latitudes For this Rule serves both ways If you have the true Latitudes and the Bearings you have the true situation so if you have the true Latitude of one place and the true Bearings and distances thence to the places adjacent you have also the true Latitudes This Rule if it were well improved might produce Maps more exact than any we have yet had and make the much desired Longitude less valuable in Geography For this would give a true proportionable distance from place to place which is the thing so much pretended to by Longitudes but is more by chance than Science at any time if ever arrived to That this is practicable to particular Places and Countries I have given a proof and how it may be applicable to the general Geography of the World I will propose in two or three words and leave it to be improved and considered by those of better parts and more leisure than my self Suppose then only that two points of Position or Bearing were added to the two points of Latitude on the Globe and place them in two eminent places on the Equinoctial Line or on one only till we can come to the knowledge of its opposite point by more experience Let this be the Center of a Circle divided into 360. degrees which will serve both for the degrees of Latitude and for the degrees of Bearing From these Centers let Lines be drawn to every tenth degree to distinguish the points of Bearing and Parallel Lines to the Equator from every tenth degree to tenth degree to distinguish the Latitudes And these are all
return to a little creek at the mouth just within the Promontory of the Southern-Harbour and there stay till after Dinner In which time I went and climed up a Mountainous Rock hard by where I found many other curious Plants 1. Sage growing wild 2. Tragoriganum Creticum as some will have it but I esteem it Satureia or what we call in our Kitchins Winter-Savoury and that from the resemblance of smell and substance of the leaves which are not so thick and oyly as Tragoriganum as likewise Polium Roris marini foliis or leaves like Rose-mary After Dinner we put out to Sea but not without danger the Wind continuing still high and contrary After we had made six miles which is the length of the Bay which makes the Haven of Pola a storm beginning to rise we put in between the point and the Island Veruda which with the Land and some other such Scoglio's about it make a good harbour Here the Holy Virgin is worshipped with great Devotion by the name of Madonna di Veruda Her Church with the Convent belongeth to the Minime-Fryers The next day early we parted hence to pass a dangerous Gulph called the Quarner Thirty miles over It hath at the bottom to the North the Mountain Caldiera which often sends forth such gusts of Wind as are fatal to the Vessels that must pass it It s high ridges look a far off like an overgrown Cammel with a great bunch upon the back When we had passed about Twenty miles of the Thirty and had about Ten to the Mountains of Ossero we saw a great storm pursuing of us which overtook us about four miles from Shore but with such fury as made us immediately strike Sail it being an Hurricano or Whirl-wind that had almost overset the Gally before we could furl the Sails It was accompanied with such Thundring Lightning and Rain as if the Elements had conspired to our destruction The Sea also ran so high that we could neither Sail nor Row yet by Gods mercy and the help of the Rudder we were droven after an hours time although we could no way see the Land under the Mountains of Ossero and thence we rowed into Porto-longo which is on the North side of the Isle Unia In this Isle there is but one Village encompassed with a fertile soil containing in all about nine or ten miles in circuit abounding in Corn and Wine but the rest very rocky and barren Of Plants here are abundance such as I before named and over and above a Syderitis Angustifolia flore albo The next day we endeavoured to get out to Sea but finding the water too rough we turned into Porto-novo which is a little creek between the Mountains of Ossero After noon the weather proving better we set sail and passed between many little Islands which along those Coasts are numberless as Canigula and Sansio South of us in the Gulph Quarnerette which towards the Land hath the Mountains of Morlaca Towards the East San-Pietro in Limbo being two little Isles thorough which we passed making a good Harbour with a little Fort at the East-end of the most Northern of them Hence we left Selva with a pretty Town upon it to the South Opposite to which is L' Ulba which hath North-Port Saint Nicola at one end without any Town there but hath one about three miles distant Here groweth abundance of Samphire of which the Mariners gathered great quantity to boil and eat with Oyl and Vinegar Here I found a Plant with a Bulbous-root which sent out a stalk about half a foot high with a crest or crown of little small flowers striped with white and Cinnamon-colour I should have taken it for a Moly but that it had no smell and for an Asphodil had I found any leaves at the root Another like Samphire but that each leaf ended with a Pricket The next day we passed by many Rocks lying in a row South of us as Melada on which is a Town called Cestron Then Rapâ—ntello and some others beyond until at last as in a River between little Islands we arrived at Zara. ZARA Lib j. Fig II Zara is situated upon a slip of plain ground almost encompassed with the Sea Zara only the East-end is joyned to the Firm-Land of Dalmatia if I may call it joyned For there also is a ditch made from one Sea to the other which is well supplied with water at high Tides The Harbour is on the North-side and is well secured by the City which serves instead of a Mole to defend it from the South-winds there being no other that annoy it from the adjoyning Land It lieth in length East and West The entrance of the Port is West where it hath two round Bastions with Cannon mounted on them which saluted our Bailo as also did the Musketteers from the Walls and upon his arrival in the Port the Count and Captain of the Military-forces received him at his Landing They were cloathed in crimson Suits and Gowns made something like the Civilians Gowns at Oxon. The Bailo also was in a crimson sute but made after the French fashion These with the Militia conducted him to the Palace of the General of Dalmatia who resides there The East-side hath three Bastions and is defended by a strong Cittadel whose Fortification shews it had a good contriver and a great deal of industry to bring it to that perfection Its Fosses are hewed out of the hard Rocks which is the substance of the greatest part of the ground thereabouts and renders it very difficult to be mined Its Bastions Half-moons and Counterscarps are well countermined and mantled with hewen stone The end of the Town next the Cittadel hath three regular Bastions and is separate from it by a deep Fosse There is no Hill near it to command it from without So that it may pass for a strong Town as it is also the chief of Dalmatia The Military-Forces then consisted of eight Companies of Foot and three of Horse being for most part Morlachs Croats and other People of the Mountainous and Northern parts of Dalmatia Men of tall stature strong nimble and hardy especially the Morlachs who are used to the cold and barren Mountains called by that name extending themselves along those Coasts and subject to the Venetians They are inveterate enemies to the Turks and never spare any of them when they fall into their clutches Whensoever they make Parties to go pillage the Turks on their Borders still they return loaden with Booty We were by many credible persons assured that such was their strength as four of them would take a man on horse-back upon their shoulders and carry them both over the Streights and dangerous places of the Mountains even sometimes twenty or thirty paces at a time which hath been tried when some of their chief Officers have been to pass those Mountains Morlacus Lib j. Fig III. Their Habit is odd For Shoes they have only a piece of Leather
some little hills lying Westwards from the Town I take this Peninsula to be about four miles East and West but it is esteemed eight miles from Spalato to Clissa Northwards The Town is situated on the South-coasts at the bottom of a Bay in the bending shape of a half-moon which makes a deep Haven and of good Anchoridge but somewhat open to the South-winds Yet Gallies and smaller Vessels have a Mole to secure them from those dangers This place is about four hundred miles from Venice It hath a very pleasing prospect entring the Haven one side of the Palace now part of the Wall of the Town first offering it self to the view For it hath a Gallery of ancient Windows adorned with Pillars and Cornishes between each of them of the Dorick-Order except one at each end which are larger and of the Corinthian This Palace is square and comprehends above two parts of three of the City the rest being a little oblong added to the West-side makes the whole oblong but both one and the other are lately fortified and encompassed by a Work of three Bastions Northwards and two ranging in the same line with the Wall of the Palace and the Old City fronting the Haven There is another little Fort N. E. of the Town against Incursions from the Mountains and another upon the East-point of the Harbour But this is only of Earth and hath Five Bastions On the West is a Hill unfortified which commandeth the Town and renders it very weak On the right hand within the Mole is a large Lazarett as the Italians call a Pest-house which are frequent in all the Cities of Italy and under the Venetian Dominions They are principally for those that come from any place suspected of the Plague especially Turky which is never free from it And here new-comers stay forty days to clear themselves which they call doing Centumaccia or Quarantine from so many days allotted before they can have Prattick or any Commerce with the City But this served instead of a Palace to entertain the Embassadour and also for want of an Inn in the Town for a Lodging for us It hath three Quadrangles each less than the other The Chamber we chose was the best of half a dozen at least of one side of the third Quadrangle I should have been gladder had we found nothing but the bare Walls as my Comerade hath given an account For we had both them and the Floor so furnished with Chinches Fleas and Emmots that I who used still to have the greatest share in such Vermin feared we should be devour'd before we parted thence notwithstanding all we could invent to destroy them This is a very commodious place for the Merchants that come out of Turky in great Companies which they call Caravans both to lodg them and their Merchandize which they unlade here it being the chief Scale of Trade for Shipping of Goods from Turky to Venice Our Beds were such as we had made at Venice to lye on in the Gally being our length and breadth of course Ticking-Cloth well quilted with Wool which did us great service afterwards in all our Voyage into Turky We staied at Spalato eleven days which gave us time enough to survey the place with more than ordinary diligence But that which most employed our curiosity was the Palace of Dioclesian who when the weight of the Empire seem'd uneasie to him chose this place to retire to near his native City Salona It is built of Free-stone well hew'n and cemented together the Figure is an Equilateral square each side containing two hundred paces in length and the height that remains is above sixty foot It hath a square Tower at each corner and three Gates and with Monsieur Spon favour no more that side towards the Sea having none according to the best of my remembrance nor have I noted any more in the design I made of the Town or in my Journal The Gate which entreth the Town from the Haven being no part of the Palace The other are placed in the middle of each side Dioclesians Palace A The Court B the Portico about it C the plane of the Octogone temple D the front of the Rotundo E the plane of itt F the square Temple G the Gates H the Towers I buildings or ruines That side toward the Haven hath forty-five Windows adorned with as many Pillars of the Dorick-Order with Freezes Architraves and Bases very well proportioned Besides at each end one far larger and higher than the rest with Three Arches born up by Corinthian Pillars of Marble The Windows of the other sides are not set off with Pillars but plain The North-gate which is towards Salona was well adorned with Statues as the Niches shew The weaving together of the Stones of the Architrave of the great entrance of this Gate is very pretty This was for Horses and Carts to come in at The two lesser entrances at each side of it were for the people on foot I give you the Figure as well as I could take it The West-wall is for the greatest part razed to the foundations yet what remains of the Gate assures me that it was beautified with two Hexagon-Towers on each side and hence examining likewise the other two I judg'd that they also might have been adorned in the same manner Concerning the West-Gate there is a way streight thorough several ruins seeming apartments of the Palace which leadeth to a Court about fifty foot long and seventeen wide which I judge to have been the Center of the Palace and equally distant from the Gates This place on the East West and South-side is almost encompassed with a Portico of Pillars of the Egyptian Granate-stone or a Stone very like it of which I afterwards saw a Rock in the Island Delos and since that great plenty at Milan about their Churches which they dig out of a Quarry near Lago Maior at the foot of the Alps. They are of the Corinthian Order well proportioned and their Capitals of white Marble At the South-end is a round Temple like the Pantheon at Rome whose Frontispiece wanteth not the Beauty of the more ancient Roman Architecture At the East-end is an Octogon-Temple and opposite to it Westward a square one The Plane of all which I here give with its Dimensions as I took them The Octogon is now the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Lucia It is Eight square within and without as I find it by the Dimensions and figure I exactly took of it It hath on the outside a Portic round it Eight-square also whose curious wrought Planches of Stone are supported by Twenty-four Corinthian-Pillars of the same Granate with the others Each side of the Portick is of Fourteen foot long and each of the Temples Ten. The door four foot wide and is ascended to by several steps out of the Court. Within it hath two ranges of Pillars one over another which placed in the several Angles do make eight below
Peninsula They say that the Walls of it were built by Dioclesian The Domo also now dedicated to Saint Mark is an ancient Edifice and stands upon an Eminence in the middle of the Town where all the streets meet Upon one corner of the Front on the top is the Bust of a Woman with a crowned head The people there believe it was Dioclesian's Empress to which my companion gave little credit having never seen it neither in Medals nor in Statue But it is without doubt ancient as also the Church built of Marble dug in the Isle and so are most part of the Houses but not polished like the Palaces of Genua It is a Bishops seat and governed by a Venetian-Count There are five Villages besides upon the Island which are supposed to contain fourteen or fifteen hundred Souls apiece but the City not above one thousand For the compass of the Walls is but small The abundance of the Woods serveth for a refuge for several sorts of wild creatures especially an Animal as they say made like a Dog but which maketh a noise like a Calf or Peacock When they light any fire near the Woods in the night they hear numbers of them howl together which make a hideous noise Those that hear them would think they were people that cry a-far off Of these we heard many between Smyrna and Ephesus when we had the misfortune to lose our way on the Plains in a wet and thund'ring night as I shall have occasion again to remember To the North of this place on the Continent runneth a long slip of Land which maketh a narrow Channel between the Main-Land and it called Sabioneira and thereon stands a Town of the same name just opposite to this belonging to the Republique of Ragusa where they have many delightful and fruitful Gardens as we were informed This evening we advanced a little further in the Channel to a Convent of Cordeliers called Madonna del Scoglio upon the shore of Sabioneira It was formerly a Greek Church but now belongeth to Latin Monks It was robbed by the Turks about Ten years ago who then carried away the Tabernacle and took the Holy Sacrament and trod it under foot which was without doubt done in indignation to the Roman Superstition which is the cause that those Infidels are so scandaliz'd at the whole Christian Religion that they will learn Italian enough to upbraid the Franks as they call all the Western Christians with it Canagli di Christiani fate il Vestro dio e lo Mangiate You rascally Christians who make your God and eat him when you have done But it is our duty who enjoy so much liberty and have often the opportunity to teach them how to make distinction between the glorious light of the Gospel we enjoy and profess and the Roman Superstition they with so much reason abominate The adjoyning hill yields a good prospect and hath on the top a little Church dedicated to Saint Catharine There you see the Sea on both sides of this long Tongue of Land which is pleasantly covered with Woods of Myrtle-Trees that were then in the flower and made the whole Air thereabouts most fragrant Here I saw Aloes in the Flower and I judge the Stems of it were five or six yards high The next day we sail'd between Sabioniera and the Isle Meleda leaving Augusta more out at Sea between Curzola and that and having past several other Rocks or Islands we came to the Port Santa Croce which belongeth to the Republique of Ragusa and is the best I had seen all along those Coasts The entrance into it is very good and the Port large deep and secure being every way Land-lock'd by Mountains round it covered with Vineyards Gardens and Houses of pleasure of the Raguzians The City Ragusa is very near but not seen from thence by reason of a high hill interposing We had not the satisfaction to see it because we suspected it to be infected with the Plague but passed in sight of it next morning The Ragusians have not recovered themselves yet since the terrible Earthquake that happened there about twelves years ago by which the greatest part of their City and Citizens were swallowed up by the Earth I heard a Seaman that was then in the Port Santa Croce affirm that they looked every minute when their Ship should have been shaken in pieces on the water a thing not explicable by any Phaenomena in nature that I know of He told me also that the water boiled like a pot which was undoubtedly caused by the vapours rising from the Subterraneous Parts beneath the water They here voluntarily put themselves under the protection of the Turks to whom they pay tribute for the security they enjoy The next day we passed by this place and Raguza Vechia or Old Raguza where is supposed was Epidaurus of the Ancients Thence by Castle-novo on the Channel of Catoro the first place on these Coasts that belongeth to the Turks Here we put in at a Port called Madonna de Janici from a Chappel so called on the shore From this place we had a good prospect of Castle-novo within the Channel which I took as well as I could Lib j. Fig IX CASTEL-NOVO Hence after dinner we stood out to Sea that we might shoot the Gulph of Londrin but still within sight of Land until we had passed Budua the last place of the Venetians on these Coasts and Dulcignia which perhaps were those which Ptolomy calls Bulua and Ulcinium We had no sooner lost sight of the Dalmatian-shore but that we descried the Mountains of Macedonia This Gulph was called anciently the Gulph of Apollonia where Caesar escaped narrowly with his Life and Fleet. It is a very dangerous passage and is above a hundred and eighty miles over And therefore lesser Barques are forced to make the compass round by shore as my companion did in his return who hath given us this account of it Going along the shore Ulcinium we saw Dulcigno in times past Ulcinium belonging to the Turks which may contain seven or eight thousand Souls and is an indifferent good Scale that is to say in the Levant-language a City of Traffique The Franks have there a Consul Next is Durazzo which was the Dyrrachium of the Romans and is now but a Village with a ruined Fort. At length we came to the Gulph of Boyana with a River of the same name that emptieth it self therein and which was called Drillo in times past On the same shore runs the River Pollona to which the nearness of Apollonia hath given the name The Water remaineth but the Town is utterly destroyed and there also stands Aulen which by corruption is now called Valona Thirty miles thence to Landward is a Mountain where riseth a Fountain of Pitch of which the Ancients make mention and with which they caren Vessels being mixed with Tarr The Rock Sassino about six miles from Valona boundeth the Gulph of Lodrino to the South-East
Not far from Sassino North-East are the Fat 's of Piscaria where they catch abundance of Fish The â—ows they salt and dry in the Sun which maketh Botargo and the rest they pickle Passing this Gulph in the morning as soon as it was light we perceiv'd a far off a small Vessel that we took to be a Pirate which as soon as it saw us tacked about and fled and thereby confirmed us in that opinion especially so soon as we perceiv'd that he made towards Vallona But we pursued them so hotly that in less than an hour we came within Cannon-shot of them and fired two or three shot so near as obliged them to strike sail and come by our Lee. It proved nevertheless to be only a Barque of Cephalonia laden with Cheese and Oyl for Venice who took us to be as very Corsaires as we did them our Officers being sorry to have miss'd the Booty they expected and the others glad that they had escaped so well the danger they fear'd we each of us pursued our course Over against Sassino we had the prospect of those high Mountains called formerly Acroceraunii now called Chimera Chimera Towards the Sea-side there are five or six Villages which defend themselves against the Turks and will not pay him the Carattle or Tribute of Pole-money The principal of these Villages is called Chimera situate upon the top of a Rock having Precipices on all sides whither all the Country-people retire when need requireth If they should be assaulted by Sea they retreat into the Mountains which are almost inaccessible and drive away with them all their cattel But if they are set on by Land there are so many narrow passages that they may be able to defeat an Army meerly by tumbling down Stones upon them They have a Harbour called Porto-panormo They follow the Greek Religion and in Spiritual affairs are subject to the Archbishop of Janina a Town in Thessaly about two days Journey from thence They are esteemed good Soldiers being descended of the stout race of the Macedonians and are as bad Robbers as the Magnotti who are come of the Lacedemonians Two people in times past equally famous for War though now the off-spring of both be as infamous for Robbery For they say They will sell Turks to Christians and Christians to Turks The Wind being fair we staied not at Sassino but sailed on until we came at the Island Corfu Corfu was formerly called Corcyra Corfu as I find in many Greek Medals I brought with me from thence An Island of ancient Fame which had without doubt the Emperour Septimius Severus and his Family Med. 5 6 8 9 10 11. for its Great Benefactors For there is lately found abundance of his Medals and of Julia Domna his Empress and of his Son Antoninus Caracalla and of Plautilla his Empress and of Geta his other Son who both succeeded him in the Empire Those of Plautilla are rarely to be found any where else Of which because I have several Medals not ordinarily to be met with and no-where printed as I know of except by its Worthy and Nobly descended Historian Cavalier Marmero I shall for the satisfaction of the curious here present the Reverses of them to publick view Casiopia N. Cassopo Lib j Fig X A the Mountain of Corfu B the Ruines of Cassiopia C the Convent of Madonna di Cassopo D the Sea The first place we arrived at is a ruin'd City called now Cassopo but anciently Cassiopia famous for the Temple of Jupiter Cassius of which I have several Medals especially one which hath Jupiter sitting Med. 1 2 3 4 c. with these Letters about it ZEUC KATCIOC on the other side the Head of Apollo crowned with an Olive-branch behind ΚΟΡΚΥΡΑ and his Harp before with these Letters ΚΟRΚΥRΑ There is only remaining the Ruins of its Walls on a Rock almost compassed about by the Sea 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And hard by it a Church called Panagia as they name the Blessed Virgin kept only by three or four Caloyers or Greek Monks This little Church is famous for a Picture of our Lady to which they attribute Miracles and whereof I had a mind to try the skill The way is thus Strangers that have a mind to know whether their Friends are alive or dead go to the Picture and clap a piece of money upon it thinking of some friend If the person they think of be alive the piece will stick fast but if dead it will drop down into a Sack placed under-neath so that dead or alive the Priest is sure of the money I applied some Farthings which I had to try how and where they would stick but had no other thought nor end being before well satisfied that it was but a ridiculous jugling Some of them indeed stuck but all to one and the same place those that were clapt on any where else falling still to the ground The Picture is painted upon the Walls and is very smooth and shining so that I attribute the sticking to some clamminess of the Varnish which they take care shall never be wanting in some places of it Among the Ruins of the Castle I saw a vast great Snake I believe above two yards long and big as the small of a mans leg of a dark brown colour thicker also at the tail than ours are so that I take it to be a different Species from ours I saw another afterward of the same kind but not so big The next day being the Eighteenth of July we came to the City now called by the name of the Island It is not a hundred years since this City was nothing but the old Castle and the present Suburbs of Castati But now it is a good large City and well fortified with Walls on the South and two Castles at the East and West-Ends though the side towards the Harbour be not so well fortified as not so much needing it It would be a Town almost impregnable were it not for a Rock that standeth towards the West and commandeth the adjoyning Fort with a great part of the Town The other Castle or Fort stands upon a Rock every way inaccessible running out like a Promontory in the Sea This is the place of Residence of the Venetian-Generals of the Levant by Sea and Land and to whom from the other Proveditours of Zant and Cephalonia c. Appeals may be made and a new Hearing had of all Civil Causes before him as Chief Judg under the Senate as well as Chief Commander of all their Forces He who had this Command then was Signior Priuli We being taken notice of here for designing places as we past were taken for spies So that order was given by the General that none should be admitted into the Forts insomuch that we could not at that time well know their strength But as I returned and touched here I had so much time as to see this Castle which is well
provided with Ammunition and Artillery To the Westward of it is a large place which they call the Splanade from the middle of which beginneth a large street that runneth Westward thorough the City On the right hand in this street standeth the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Spiridion first Bishop of that place whose Body they are perswaded they have and there with great Veneration preserve it They attribute to him the doing a Miracle about Thirty-five years since restoring the sight to a blind man who came and prayed to him prostrating himself before his Body And of this they keep an Annual remembrance ever since which happened when we were here They make profession of the Greek Religion but are in most things Latinized except in Obedience to the Sea of Rome the Infallibility of the Pope and the Procession of the Holy Spirit They have not a Greek Bishop allowed them but there is a Latin one and a Protopappa Greek This Church is well furnished with Silver Lamps and one of Gold given by a Gentleman of Corfu who by his Will left Five thousand Cichins which amount to about Three thousand pounds sterling to buy it Here are several ingenious men and moderately learned especially Cavalier Marmero who hath writ the History of this place in Italian and hath a Collection of Medals but most of them such as concern the Antiquity of the place He derives his name from the Isle Marmero in the Propontis of which his Family were once Masters He is a person of great Worth and Honour both as to his personal Qualities and his Extraction being descended of the Family Comneno Emperours of Greece This little digression Reader I owe to this Generous Friend whose name I have reason to mention with gratitude The Protopappa or Chief Priest called Panagiotti Bulgary is but young yet Learned not only in Greek but Latin He gave us some Books of the Office used in Honour of Saint Spiridion with a relation of his Life to present to the Patriarch of Constantinople Hierassimo Machi Abbot of Palaiopolis is also a Learned man who retired hither from Candia after it was surrendred to the Turks He hath a Study of a great many M. SS amongst which are twenty never yet printed as a Commentary of Origen upon the Gospel of Saint John Saint Augustin de Trinitate Translated out of Latin into Greek one of which I bought afterwards at Athens among other Manuscripts and the Sermons of Ephrem an ancient Monk He hath printed a Dictionary Tetraglot Ancient and Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian as also a Systeme of Philosophy He hath a Nephew named Arsenio Calluti who is also Learned in Latin Greek and Divinity and is esteemed a good Preacher He Studied at Padua and is now first Pappa of the Church Panthagii or All-Saints in Palaiopoli Among his Books he shewed us a Manuscript of Saint John Damascen never yet printed as I know of and is a kind of Epitome of all his Works And another being a Commentary of Ptocho-prodromus on the Hymns of the Greek Church There are also several other Learned men there as namely Dr. Cappello young but skillful in the Civil Law and in other Gentile Learning He told us he had composed a Dictionary in Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian more ample than any yet extant The Doctors Justiniani and Lupina are likewise men of esteem there But I must not forget my good Friend Signior Spiridiani Arbeniti who hath also a little Collection of very curious Medals a great lover of Antiquity and a very civil person He received us with the greatest kindness imaginable taking the pains to shew us all things that are rare in that place Sometimes he went with us a foot and at other times when need required furnished us with his own and friends Horses and always favoured us with his good company 2. The soil of Corfu is not so fruitful as to supply the Inhabitants with Corn but they are provided from the Continent from which it is separated by a narrow Streight of four or five miles over near to Cassiopa It is nevertheless fertile in Wine and Oyl and all sorts of good Fruit. We had a present sent us of Figs Filberds and Currant-grapes then scarce ripe the Figs being a large green kind they call Fracassans having in the middle a round lump of Jelly of the bigness of a Nutmeg very delicious and refreshing in the heats of Summer Here are also abundance of Oranges and Limon-Trees I found several curious Plants in this Island among others these 1. Thymus Capitatus a very rare Plant and scarce ever seen in our Parts I have furnished our Gardens with its seed but it did not come up I judg'd it to have been Savoury until I informed my self better because in smell it resembles that rather than ordinary Thyme But is undoubtedly that which Dioscorides hath deseribed under that name of Thymus 2. Lysimachia Hysopi folio 3. Scabiosa flore nigrescente caule altissimo forsan Peregrina B. 4. Cyperus Gramineus Millearius 5. Malva trimestris 6. Scammonea 7. Polium Creticum 8. Acarna flore patulo rubente 9. Stoechas odorata 10. Centaurium majus album 11. Centaurium rubens Spicatum 12. Centaurium ramosum rubens 13. Centaurium ramosum album 14. Origanum Heraclioticum 15. Vitex flore caeruleo albo 16. Consolida regalis foetida 17. Glichyriza 18. Pulegii species erecto caule Latifolio incano vel hirsuto I. He carried us one day to see the Ruins of Paloeopoli the ancient Metropolis of the Island It stood on a Promontory to the South of the present City separated from it by a little Bay of about a mile or two over The abundance of Ruins and Foundations which are to be seen there do sufficiently demonstrate it to have been so The ground it covered is almost an Island and therefore anciently called Chersopolis It had on the South-West a good large Port for Vessels of those days but now has hardly water enough for small Shallops The mouth is narrow and was secured by a Chain the place to which it was fastened being yet to be seen There has been formerly an Aqueduct to bring fresh water to it from a Spring which we saw by a Church towards the Sea-side from whence the Water was conveyed by a Channel made thorough the Rock in Earthen-Gutters of about a yard long and an inch thick apiece curiously joyned to one another whereof great quantities are found thereabouts Besides abundance of Foundations of Temples Arches Pillars and Marble Inscriptions have been dug up here and employed to build the new Fortifications of the present City Signior Marmero in his History hath given a Plane of the old City which is now covered all over with Olive-trees and here and there an old Church standing among them the two chief that still remain are Panagia of which Pappa Ulachi is Abbot and Pantagi whereof Pappa Canuti is Rector The Portal of the first
taken for Ithaca one of the principal Isles of Ulysses his Kingdom and is placed there by Sanson and Sophianus But they may be deceived For Strabo speaking of Ithaca gives it but eighty Stadia about which maketh about ten Italian miles and this Island is at least the double Therefore I believe that Ithaca is another little Island seven or eight miles from hence called yet Ithaca which is much less than this I believe anciently called Dulichium because it hath at the East-side a Port with the Ruins of a Town called yet Dolichia as Strabo observed it was called in his time which to me is satisfaction enough though Strabo notwithstanding seemeth to favour those that take Thiaki for Ithaca But perhaps Strabo himself did not know the true situation the ancient names being in his time changed For lastly if we have recourse to what Homer hath said of it it seemeth that Dulichium was none of the Isles Echinades as the Geographers after-him have judged however it is a question not so easily decided Two English Ships go yearly to this Thiaki to lade Currans The Isle is cultivated by the Inhabitants who are reduced to three Villages called Onoi Vathi and Oxia In a Wood there are to be seen the Ruins of an old Castle which the Islanders tell you was the Palace of Ulysses As to the Isle Ithaca it is desert and those of Thiaki go thither to till it in its seasons The Isle of Cephalonia in Homer's time was called Samos and had a Town of that name which should not have been far from the Port Pescarda of which we have already spoken Cephalonia was the greatest Island of Ulysses his Kingdom and I wonder that Strabo maketh it not above Three hundred Stadia in circuit which amount but to Thirty-eight Italian miles and Pliny no more than Forty-four miles although indeed it hath more than a hundred and twenty miles in compass But I will not find fault with the ancient Geographers since our Moderns who beside the old Geography have the relations of the ages since do notwithstanding make most gross mistakes in their Maps of these parts Of Saint Mauro he continueth thus Since we are in the Kingdom of Ulysses let us not quit it so soon but speak something of the Island Saint Mauro St. MAURO This Island was anciently called Leucada and the Modern Greeks call it so yet for the Castle only is properly called Saint Mauro from a Convent which stood there whilest it was under the Venetians Returning to Venice we were obliged to touch at a Port of it CLIMENO called Climeno which is the best in the Island having good Depth and Anchoridge From thence the phansie took us to go see the Fortress and to that end took a Boat called Monoxylo to carry us thither We rowed four or five hours in the narrow Channel that separates it from the Continent before we arrived at it Strabo-saith that it was anciently joyned to the Land and that this Streight was dug to separate it which is likely enough For in the streightest part it doth not much exceed fifty paces over and almost everywhere three or four foot of water It is in this narrowest part of the Streight that the ancient City Leucada had its situation upon an Eminence a mile from the Sea of which some Remains are yet to be seen having for its Port the whole Channel especially those Parts where there was Water enough Ortelius and Ferrarius are mistaken in believing that this City was where now Saint Mauro stands They have not been upon the place to find that Saint Mauro is three miles from thence in the middle of the Channel where it is a League over The Fortress is good and hath some round Bastions situated upon a very low ground But that which renders it considerable is that it neither can be approached to by Land nor Sea unless in those Monoxylo's or little Barques which draw not above a foot of water It is separated by a ditch of thirty or forty foot wide from two little Islands which are as the Suburbs to the Fortress and are inhabited by Turks and Greeks Their Houses are very low and built of wood But to make amends they themselves go very well cloathed and are great Pirats in those Seas The Basha of the Morea came thither this year on purpose to burn their Galliots or little Gallies whereof Durag Beg a famous Pirate of Lepanto had formerly seven or eight under his Command We left our little Boat ashore and went to Saint Mauro on an Aqueduct a mile long which serveth as a Bridge for those that will go thither on foot though it be not above a yard broad and without any hold which would make the stoutest man tremble in passing it especially if he meet any other thereon For it is as much as two can do to pass by one another There is above Five or six thousand Inhabitants in the Cittadel and Suburbs But we had made but very hard cheer there without the Fish we carried with us for we found nothing there but bad Wine bad Bread and worse Cheese There are about Thirty Villages in the Island inhabited by poor Greeks that manure the Land and catch Fish Being under the Jurisdiction of a Bishop whose Revenues apparently are but mean The Isle is fruitful enough in Corn Oranges Limons Almonds and Pasture for their Cattel and is about Thirty or Forty miles in compass The Castle of Saint Mauro is not above a dozen miles from the Gulph of Ambracia now called the Gulph de L'arta near which was the renowned City Actium famous for the Battle of Augustus Caesar against Mark-Antony but at present there is no more talk of this City Not being willing to go thither we discoursed an Understanding man of L'arta who assured us that L'arta or Arta was not Ambracia L'ARTA as our Geographers do warrant But that the City of Ambracia which gave name to this Gulph is above a days journey from thence and is yet called by the Country people Ambrakia though now but a Village about a mile from the Sea just in the bottom of the Bay That there is a Kanne there which serveth for a Warehouse for the Merchandises that are brought thither That the Town Arta is at least sixteen miles from thence upon the River which probably is the Acheron of the Ancients and which according to Pliny dischargeth it self into the Gulph of Ambracia Vouro-potami is the Vulgar name of a River which one passeth coming towards Ambracia and is without dispute that which in times past was called Aracthus although it pass not so near the Town Ambracia now perhaps being bigger in old time it extended it self even to it The mouth of this Gulph is not above a mile and half wide although it is above Threescore miles about On the left hand there is a Fortress of Turks not quite so well peopled as Saint Mauro It
is called Prevenza and is the place of the ancient Nicopolis built by Augustus in memory of his Victory over Mark-Antony In Arta are reckoned seven or eight thousand Inhabitants whereof the number of the Greeks exceedeth that of the Turks Signior Manno Mannea a rich Merchant of that place told me that the Cathedral Church of this place called Evangelistra that is the Annunciation is a great Building that hath as many doors and windows as there are days in the year and that it is sustained by above Two hundred Marble Pillars He added that an Inscription over the door sheweth that it was built by Duke Michael Comneno This Town and the Country round about Traffick in Tobacco Botargo and Furrs with which they drive a great Trade The Archbishop of Arta made his Residence in times past at Lepanto which he now hath left because there are but few Christians there He had anciently eight Suffragans But the Emperour John Palaeologus divided his Province into two Archbishopricks to raise that of Janina The Cities that are left to Arta are 1. Ragous a little Town ten miles from Prevenza 2. Ventza a Town and Castle on the other side of the Gulph 3. Astos an inland Town two days Journey from Arta and 4. Acheloou which taketh his name from the River Acheloous The Bishop of this place maketh his Residence at Angelo-Castro and hath also Zapandi Massa-longi and Anatolico in his Diocess Janina is a Town bigger than Arta peopled by rich Greek Merchants It s Archbishop has under him four Bishopricks 1. Argiro-Castro no great Town 2. Delbeno which is but a Village 3. Butrinto under which are the Villages of the Mountain Chimaera 4. Glykeon so called from a River called Glyki and this last Diocess is extended from Paramythia tâ— Pourga a Fortress belonging to the Venetians upon the Sea-Coaâ—â— And thus far Monsieur Spon But it will not be amiss perhaps to let you know what these Boats called Monoxyla are so often made mention of They are Boats made of the Body of a Tree all of one piece as the name implyeth about fifteen or twenty foot long two foot wide and a foot and half deep or thereabouts They were not unknown to the Ancients Hesychius saith that the Cyprians called them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 perhaps because they were made of Oak called in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Heliodorus also mentions Monoxyla in his History They sit in the bottom of them and Row with two Padlers or little Oars Monsieur Spon saith he saw two Horses pass in them over the narrowest part of the Streight between the Land and Saint Mauro which otherwise I could not have thought them capable of I saw them used at Mesolongia and Nathaligo to carry Currans over the Flatts on board Ships lying in the road before those places But it s now time to pursue our Voyage to Zant where we arrived the Twenty-fourth of July Old and the fourth of August New Stile ZACYNTHUS N. ZANTE L. i. Fig XI Zant is but a little Island I believe not above Thirty miles about Zant. But to make amends is one of the most fruitful and pleasant places I ever saw It lieth in 36 degrees 30 minutes of Northern Latitude South from Cephalonia about ten miles and more off the Morea near thirty miles East and hath the Gulph of Lepanto N. E. In old time it was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Zacynthos as I have seen on several Medals especially on one which I saw in Sir Clement Harbie's hands Med. 14. the Consul of this place who gave me leave to design it It hath on the one side the head of some Deity and on the Reverse Apollo's Tripos under a radiant Sun with these Letters about it ΖΛΚΥÎΘΙΩΠThe Greeks still call it Zacynthos the Italians Zanté and we Zant. It hath been called by Boterus the Golden Island which it well deserves because of the fruitfulness and pleasantness of its foil and abode But it now more truly merits that name from the Venetians who draw so much Gold by the Curran-Trade from hence and Cephalonia as beareth the ordinary charge of their Armada at Sea It is governed by a Venetian Proveditor and hath one good Port though it lieth a little bleak to the North-East Wind and another on the South-side but is dangerous to those that are strangers to it Between these two Ports runneth a long Promontory Eastwards on which is a high Mountain called Madonna di Scoppo from a Church there where there is a Picture that they perswade themselves works Miracles The Town is stretched along the shore and is very populous as is also the whole Island wherein beside the City are reckoned fifty Towns and Villages The Town is backt towards the West with a Fort situated upon a steep hill which casteth such a reflexion of the Sun upon it as maketh it extreme hot in Summer and almost an English Summer in the coldest Winter This Hill abounds with many Springs of excellent good fresh Water which although they rise some not above twenty paces from the Sea and others nothing near so much yet they are so high above the surface of the water as may confute the vulgar error that would have all Fountains to take their Original from the Sea For here from high Mountains they powre themselves into it as from Monte di Madonna di Scoppo the Fountain Grundinero doth But if they understand that the Sun first draweth the water out of the Sea into Clouds and lets it drop down again in Rain or Snow upon the Hills from whence it collects it self into subterraneous Channels and so breaks out again in Springs I will be of their opinion But not that it passeth from the Sea in subterraneous Channels to the Fountain and thence back again from whence it came above ground Unless they first prove that in Water the contrary Qualities of Gravity and Levity cohabit together This is plain also if we consider that Springs are never far from some Hill or Mountain And that in many dry Summers where the Hills are not high and large they abate in their Water and are often dried quite up which could never be if they came immediately from the Sea For that is never wasted at least sensibly We may therefore wonder and adore the Wisdom of the great Creator of All things that hath laid the Earth in heaps and hath lifted up the Rocky Mountains to the Heavens which we ignorantly call Barren and the Fable Mocks for only bringing forth of Mice when they like good though aged Fathers furnish their children the Valleys with such plentiful supplies of streams as render them so abundantly fruitful and their Fields to stand so thick with corn and every thing else that is good and beautiful that they seem really to laugh and sing The Town is well built of Free-stone but the Buildings not very high by reason of the frequent Earth-quakes that
Blew VVhite and Red. Thus all our great preparations for fight ended in amicable salutes to each other expressed by sound of Trumpets Drums and Cannon Our Admiral carried the Banner of Saint Mark upon his Main-Top-Mast as Capitan Denavi which is the highest Charge at Sea under this State And therefore it fell to the Hollanders share to come by our Lee and salute first Their Admiral was young De Ruiter who only as Vice-Admiral of that Squadron carried his Flag on the Top-Mast head His Ship passed first and all the rest in order after him saluting which we still answered with the same respect After which De Ruiter sent two Officers to complement the Capitan Denavi and so took leave of us We were becalmed that night so that we found our selves next morning in the same Gulph still opposite to Corone But a moderate gale arising with the Sun not long after we doubled the Cape Metapan called in old time Promontorium Taenarium The Bay beyond it is called Brazza Dimagnio from the City Magnia situated at the bottom thereof The Magnoti who are the Inhabitants of that Country are famous Pirates by Sea and Pestilent Robbers by Land They have always bravely defended themselves against the Turks and maintained their Liberty till lately by this stratagem the Turks were too hard for them They got their consent to build two Forts upon their Coasts which they did so advantageously as soon made them Masters of their City and them And now none of them are exempted from paying Tribute but a few in the Mountains And some have quit their Country and are retired into Ponglia where the King of Spain hath assigned them an habitation They are naturally such Thieves that when any Vessel cometh into their Harbour they will go by night and cut the Cables of their Ships when they can find nothing else to lay hold of which sometimes endangers the Vessels running a shore when not discover'd in time Some Mariners of this place that were on board of us gave us this account of their Country with many diverting Stories of the same nature which they glory in One of the Officers of our Ship who had been at the Town related a Story that well expresseth their Thieving nature Some strangers being at one of the Villages of these Magnoti caused their Baggage to be brought into an old Womans house whilst they baited themselves and their Horses But soon after their Hostess fell bitterly a weeping The strangers surprized at it began to enquire the reason Then one of them answering for her said That perhaps it was because the sight of other Country-men put her in mind of the miserable estate of the Magnoti were reduced unto But she made them this short reply and told them it was false her weeping was because her Son was not at home to rob them of their baggage Such pleasant Conferences as these made our time seem less tedious whilst our slow passing of this Gulph made it the Fourth day from Zant to Cerigo Cerigo hath the Morea North of it CERIGO and was called anciently Cithaera famous for being the Native Country of Venus and Helena So that were we to frame an Idea of this place from the fame of these Beauties we might imagine it one of the most charming places of the World But on the contrary the greatest part of it is a barren rocky and Mountainous Soil ill peopled and can brag of no plenty neither of Corn Wine nor Oyl which undoubtedly made Venus change her own Country for Cyprus and Helena so willing to be stollen and carried into the pleasant Plains of the Continent What Beauties it now produceth I am ignorant of for I remember not that I saw a Woman there It s plenty consists in Mutton and Fowls as Turtles Venus beloved Birds Quails and Partridges Abundance of Hares and Falcons breed here but the people for what I could understand addict not themselves to Hawking The chief Town and Fort lieth on the South-side of the Island strong only towards the Sea on which it looketh from a Precipice Under it is a Harbour but open to the Southerly VVinds. Upon our entry into the Port whether by neglect or unskilfulness of our Captain we ran foul of another Ship of our company and if we did not endanger did at least considerable damage to both It hath about three or four miles South a little Rock called the Ovo or Egg the top of which they say is covered with Scorzonera and is inhabited only by Falcons that breed there From the Fort also is to be seen Cerigotto another little Island inhabited only by VVild Goats It belonged to Colonel Macarioti who served in Candia before it was taken He is reported to have behaved himself at that Siege very gallantly He made us taste of very good VVine of Cerigo where he now liveth From Cerigo in clear and fair weather Candia may be seen beyond Cerigotto This Island is still under the Dominion of the Venetians who send a Proveditor thither Our Vessel parted hence before the rest to take in fresh water at Port Saint Nicolo which lieth on the East-side of this Island and is undoubtedly that for which Strabo saith The Island hath a good Harbour there being beside the Harbour for great Vessels a natural Creek in the Rocks large enough for Forty Gallies which may easily be tied together and secured from without with a Chain Near the Shore here digging you have very good VVater which is indeed from a little Rivolet that in the heat of Summer seems perfectly dry in the Channel but still preserves it self some three foot under the ground VVe found ancient Ruins near this place which we took to be the Ruins of Menelaus his City in old time King of this Isle They are almost level with the ground Among these Ruins are some Grotto's cut out of the Rock which one of the Island pretending to be an Antiquary assured us were anciently the Baths of Helena affirming that her Palace was not above three or four miles from thence on the Hills VVe took this Antiquary for our guide and went to see what we could find of it But all we discover'd were two Pillars standing upright but without Chapitars and the Bases so deep in the ground that we could not judge of what order they were They were neither Chanell'd nor altogether plain but their Fusts cut into Angles about the breadth of an usual Channel and that not the whole length of their Fusts but some proportionable part only I rather believe it to have been some ancient Temple than a Palace They now call the place Paleo-Castro or Old Castle The situation of it is such that it looketh over the best part of the Island having a good fruitful Valley on the VVest and another not barren on the East toward the Sea-side I went up a little higher a simpling but discerning the rest of our Fleet under Sail and our Ship
near the Port called Therma It hath but two Villages as our Pilot who is native of the place informed us We plied still Northwards and passed between Macronisa and Suda Monday morning the Ninth we approached near Tine TENOS and dropped Anchor about noon in a Bay on the South-side thereof there being no Port on that side of the Island Tine was anciently called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as by some Medals we found there it appeared which on one side bear the Head of Jupiter Hammon and on the other a bunch of Grapes Med. 15 16 17 18. denoting its plenty of Wine with these Letters T H. Another I saw at Paris amongst the King of France's Collections which had on the one side the Head of the Emperor Alexander Severus and on the other a Trident wreathed about with a Serpent with these Letters about it ΤΗÎΙΩΠbecause here was a noble Temple dedicated to Neptune where as Strabo relateth the adjacent Islands used to perform the Ceremonies of their Religious Superstition The whole Island lieth high being a large heap of Marble Rocks but in many places covered with a fertile soil On the South-shore was its ancient City where nothing now remains but two or three houses called still 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or the City Here are some ancient Remains and an Inscription which sheweth it to have belonged to the Monument of Flavius Evergetes erected by his Wife Hence we ascended near four miles to a pointed Rock in the middle of the Island whereon now is its chief City and Castle As we passed we took notice of its plenty of Vineyards Figs and Olives They say they have Corn but not to spare rather wanting the help of other parts by reason they are so very populous this being now the only Island in the Archipelago that have defended themselves from the Turks and the last in those parts under the Dominion of the Venetians with whom the Inhabitants have made this agreement viz. That whensoever they cannot or will not protect them any longer they shall be obliged to deliver the Castle to the Inhabitants who are to have the freedom to chuse whom they will for their Protector There are Twenty-four Villages about the Island which can in time of necessity retire commodiously to this Castle it being in the midst of them and having great advantages of nature to defend it self from any sudden assault though I believe scarce able to stand out a considerable Siege for want of Water and Provision The Castle is on the highest point of the Rock surrounded by the Towns something lower than it and not only over-looketh the whole Island but almost all the Archipelago which afforded our curiosity a most delightful prospect of the same Hence to the Nor-West we saw Andros beyond that Euboea now called Negroponte by the Franks and more Westerly Zea. Beyond that Macronisa anciently Helena At a greater distance further we could discern Capo di Colouxi anciently called Promontorium Sunicum the most Southern Promontory of all Attica We saw to the Southward besides Thermia Seriphus c. two Islands they now call Sdilles or the two Deloses Rhenea and Delos to the West Micone The Inhabitants of Tine employed themselves in VVorking their own Silk and that of Andros but they are no great Artists in that Trade The women knit great part of it into Stockings and sell them very cheap Silk is worth about six or seven shillings the pound There is plenty of fresh water about the Island although not in the Town and it did therefore bear the name sometime of Hydrissa The Plants I took notice of more particularly here were these 1. Limonium or as Gerard calleth it Limonion Ger. p 412. folio sinuato or Sea-lavender with indented leaves where I believe either his Printer or he is mistaken in the naming it folio sinuato for caule sinuato 2. Another Thorny shrub which I know not under what species to rank unless Jacea It rifeth from the ground in a thick round bush its branches hard and woody dividing it self still into an infinite number of other small branches which terminate in Thorns amongst which are many jagged leaves of an Ash colour and with small scaly heads filled when blown with a stringy white flower in all respects like Jacea but much less It was now in seed but I saw it after in flower at Athens in the Spring of the year 3. A kind of small Stachys with silver leaves and 4. a kind of Genista Spinosa with red flowers which I find not any where described or mentioned Our Ships being to stay here some days to discharge themselves of the Goods of the new General of this place who if I remember rightly beareth the Title of General of the Archipelago though my companion calleth him only Proveditore and also to take in the baggage of his Predecessor who was to return to Corfu with half of our Fleet we resolved not to let so good an opportunity slip without seeing the anciently so renowned Island of Delos which we had in view not above eight or ten miles from Tine We hired a Bark with four Oars and had the company of two other Gentlemen whose curiosity was the same with ours The one was Monsieur Angrand Nephew to the French Embassador at Constantinople The other Monsieur Salli a Flemmish Gentleman and for our Guide one Signior Nicolo Crescentio of Tine D. D. who had studied at Rome and understood the History of this Country well and had often been at Delos when the antiquities thereof were not so much defaced as now they are This Gentleman with great civility offered us his company to shew us the Island The Wind being fair and a brisk gale we soon passed over to the Isle Rhencia now called Great Delos being the nearest opposite to Port Saint Nicolo where our Fleet lay and thence passing Eastward we crossed a little Bay which they say is a good Road large and deep enough for Ships of the greatest burthen From the further Cape of it we passed a Channel of about half a mile over according as Strabo affirmeth it to be to Delos Lib j Fig XII DELOS INSVLA N. SDILES This Island is but small not exceeding five or six miles about DELOS twice as long as broad lieth low but rocky and consequently barren It hath the Island Rhenia Westward the Southern parts of Micone East and the Channel between Micone and Tine to the North. It is utterly disinhabited now and called Little Delos or Zdeli in the plural number comprehending the Isle Rheneia which is a corruption of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which being not observed by Strangers hath been the occasion of mistakes in many Modern names of places in these Countries reported by our late Travellers Geographers and Mariners Now the great reason why it was so celebrated among the Ancients was because it was the reputed Birth-place of Apollo as Pindar Homer and Callimachus tell
been the way up Which have been wonderfully Beautified with Porticoes or Cloysters and other Buildings as the abundance of Pillars Pedestals Architraves and other Fragments of excellent Marble ranging streight and Parallel to each other do sufficiently testifie There are few Chapitels of Pillars to be seen here or any where in the Island because their Beauty made them esteemed worth carrying away ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΤΟΥΤΩΙ ΥΠΕΡΕ ΤΩÎΙΔΙΩΠΣΑΡΑΠΙΔΙ ΙΣΙΔΙΑÎΟΥΒΙΔΙ ΑΡΠΟ ΧΡΑΤΕΙ ΔΙΟΣΚΟΥΡΟΙΣ ΕΠΙ ΙΕΡΕΩΣ ΣΤΑΣΕΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟ ΚΛΕΟΥΣ ΚΟΛΩÎΗΘΕΠAmong these ruins we found an Altar dedicated to Serapis Isis Anubis Harpocrates and the Dioscouri who perhaps had a Temple there though not mention'd by Ancient Authors or at least an Altar in some other Temple For here was one dedicated to Latona the Mother of Apollo which Strabo calleth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and another of Hercules as appeareth by the Inscription of Patron under the Archontship of Phaedrus which I but now cited The chief City of this Island reacheth from Mount Cynthus Northwards to the streight between the Island Rheneia and the place where we here first put ashore and saw the Gymnasium For the ruins are continued so far in length and from the Sea Westwards near half the breadth of the Island From the top of this Mountain I took the prospect of it with its other hills and ruins as I have here designed it In the evening we return'd to our Boat purposing to get to our Vessel that Night but we found the Sea so rough that it was impossible to be done and therefore the Boat being drawn ashore with Stoechas Citrina and our Quilts that we brought for fear of such an accident we took our Lodging up that Night in hopes of a calm in the Morning But the next day the wind was as high as before yet we resolved to trie to get out and keeping under the Lee shore to cross over to Micone Nevertheless so soon as we were got out of the little harbour the Sea running so high that it had almost dash'd our Boat against a rock we were forced to put into the next Bay Northward of the former and there draw our Boat ashore and expect in God's good time a fairer opportunity We had not only bad weather by Sea but also a distress ashore to struggle with being in a barren and desert Island almost destitute of all sorts of Provisions Victuals Wine and Water In this perplexity we went to the top of a steep rock which makes the Northern Cape of the Island there to cherish our hopes with the sight of our Fleet from which we expected our relief But to our amazement and the increase of our sorrows we perceived them to be under Sail and our selves like to be left behind Yet were our troubles somewhat alleviated when we saw that our Ships the current running strong between Tine and Micone and the wind contrary could not pass that way but were forced to bear over and come to Anchor at Micone Our provisions at this time were reduced to one Penny Loaf and two or three Morsels of Bisquit our water was spilt and not an English pint of Wine left nor knew we of any Water in the Island we had searched before but in vain for the River Inopus which Strabo mentions to have been in this Island but now to be found no where and perhaps it was only a torrent after some great Rain or some little brook that the heaps of ruins now keep hid or else it riseth in some part so near the Sea-shore that it scaped our most diligent search unless it be in one place which I shall hereafter mention In a word we had no spade nor any other Instrument to dig and find fresh water with Thus pensive and melancholy we separated and went several ways to entertain our selves with solitary Contemplations I fetched a walk towards a hill on the North-east Corner of the Island which we had not before searcht It is near as high as Mount Cynthus on the top whereof are the Foundations of the Wall of a square Town or Castle Fossed without but not very deep From whence below in the Valley Eastward I discovered many Ruins Foundations and Pillars which we had not yet seen As I descended going along by the side of the hill that I might see all with more ease I found two Cisterns but without water The one was newly dried as by the mud at the bottom appeared from it goeth a ditch to the Ruins beyond which by the Sea-side on a rising ground is a Foundation with some Pillars standing and others down perhaps it hath been a Portico to some other great Building This is the most pleasant and fruitful part of the Island Two stones-cast from this Westward and South of the Isle are the Foundations of two Temples in one of which I found a Pedestal of a Statue dedicated to Mithridates Eupator Son of Mithridates Evergetes erected by Dionysius Nesanus an Athenian who was that time Gymnasiarch The first was that famous King of Pontus who made War with the Romans for so long a time Ibid. Mac. VIII and was at last defeated by Pompey Mithridates Evergetes the Father was a Friend and Allie of the Romans This place I believe to have been the New Athens at Delos of which the Inscription in Saint Marks Library at Venice makes often mention and is Printed in Gruterus Page CCCCV. the Community whereof I think likewise subscribed to the Inscription of that stone which was erected to the honour of Patron This Town was Built at the charge of the Emperour Adrian by the Athenians and called New Athens which in all probability was the place Stephanus Byzaut saith was before called Olympoeum in Delos One of the Temples there might be that of Hercules mentioned in the Inscription of Patron and set in that Temple and the other that of Neptune In the celebration of those Sacrifices Patron 's was to be yearly Crowned with a Golden Crown and whither it is not improbable but that a chanel might have come from the Cisterns to supply water for the publick service and other uses in his Temple I know not whether I may properly call that a Cistern I now speak off for perhaps it may sometimes be a spring making the River Inopus which had its overflowings like the Nile for the place sheweth no art but meerly a deep bed where I perceived water had been But whether saved there by Rain or by rising out of the Earth I cannot tell yet the time of the year seemed to argue against the former it being in the heat of Summer when little Rain falls in those parts After I had ranged over this corner of the Island with some satisfaction though pensive enough when I thought how miserable we were like to be if the weather staied us untill our Ships were gone I returned to take my share of that little provision we had left which we divided with all the Geometry we had
dropped Anchor so near another about three or four Miles within on the South-side of the Chanel that we were forced to weigh again to get more depth and better moorage otherwise the Wind and Current would soon have driven us upon it For it always setteth outward into the Archipelago with a strong Current This Chanel hath been famous in History and hath often changed name For besides the name of Hellespont or Sea of Hellas Daughter of Athamas King of Thebes drowned in passing it when she fled from the snares of her Step-mother Ino it was also called the streights of Cestos and Abydos two Cities Built on each side of its banks opposite to each other and famous for the Amours of Hero and Leander represented in some Medels of those parts And in these latter times it is sometimes called the Dardanelli which I believe properly belonged to that they now call Old Castles and by the Italians Labocca di Constantinopoli by us the Chanel or Streight of Constantinople The North-wind still continuing as it sometimes doth in the Summer time two Months together we could not get beyond this reach and being tired with many days waiting for better weather we resolved to go ashore to a Village hard by on the Asian Continent there to take Horses or some other means to carry us to the Old Castles where we might get Boats for our passage to Constantinople This Monsieur Spon took upno him whilst I staid aboard to see all things in a readiness to part But he not returning the next Morning I went my self ashore to see what was the matter And was carried to a Greeks house where he Lodged with the Bishop of Micone and Seriphus who went ashore with the same design with us I found them at breakfast on Grapes Figs Honey-combs Eggs Cheese and Water-Mellons for the Bishop being a Caloyer as they all are never eateth any Flesh This Village is called Kainourio Chorio or New-town consisting of about two hundred houses all Greeks It stands very pleasantly among Vineyards and Almond-trees Wine and Almonds being here extream cheap and a kind of Juiuba whose leaves shine like silver and are long in shape springing out from long and tender branches like a willow and yielding fruit like in shape and colour to other Jujubs but of a more mealy-tast perhaps because they were over-ripe The branches grow ordinarily upon a thick-poled trunk like a willow I have seen another kind of these about Smyrna with a broader leaf of the like silver-colour resembling Portulaca Arboreseens where they grow wild in the hedges But here we could get neither Horses nor Boat Wherefore Monsieur-Spon had provided each of us a conceited Chariot or to tell the truth a Cart. The Carriage was wreathed round with wicker the better to hold the Fruits they bring out of the fields drawn upon two Wheels without Spokes of one solid piece of wood and instead of Flanders Mares by a pair of Boufaleaus which marched in great state upon the Grand-pas But they brought us to the Old Castles in as many hours as Miles which I believe was seven or eight The Consul for the English Dutch and Genoeses called Ezechiel Ruser met us by the way and very civily offered to provide us accommodations either at his own or his Friends house which we were glad to accept of and being better mounted then we did as he had promised and provided us Lodgings at his Friends Abraham Corser's house Consul for the Venetians both Jews but very civil persons This Castle is now called the Old Castle of Natolia and the other the Old Castle of Romelia as they now call the Continents of Greece and Asia But were formerly called the Dardanelli That of Natolia may contain two or three Thousand Souls We expected that they should have been better fortified being places so considerable for the guard of Constantinople But they are nothing so in effect having only two or three round Gothick Bastions apiece This of Natolia is situated upon a plain low ground the other upon the side of an hill within Cannon shot of each other no ways tenable by land My Companion and I were of opinion that these were not the Ancient Sestos and Abydos so famous for the Amours of Hero and Leander Because it is neither the narrowest place of these Streights nor yet could we find any Marke of Antiquity for it But at a place much narrower which we passed about three or four Miles further Northward we found considerable Ruins on the shore of Natolia This confirmed us in our opinion and that the Dardanelli were Built after the Ruine of those places But having since consulted Strabo I am of opinion that the City Dardanus was thereabouts and that thence came the corrupted modern name of Dardanelli applied to both Castles For in Strabo's order Dardanus followeth Abydos although his distance seemeth to differ from our remark in which without I had taken a more exact measure I would give way to Strabo who maketh it seventy Stadia or about eight Miles After this we hired a Boat about the bigness of a small Barge for ten Dollers to bring us to Constantinople and parted from the Castles accompanied as the day before with the Bishop of Micone and an stalian Gentleman of Millain being sometimes rowed and sometimes drawn by our Water-men against the stream which still setteth outward though Petrodella Valle seemeth to make it run both ways The Current is indeed stronger when the North-wind blows then when the South or when it is a calm but still it cometh out of the Black-Sea by the Bosphorus into the Mare Marmora and thence into the Archipelago as they now call the Euxin Propontis and Aegean Seas After awhile we came to that place which we suppose to be the true Ancient Abydos and there crossed the streight about two Miles over to the European shore whence the Mariners rowing all Night brought us by break of day to Gallipoli Gallipoli is a large City Situated at the mouth of the Propontis GALLIPOLI in the Thracian Chersonessus called of old by Strabo Callipolis not just opposite to Lampsacus as some say but some Miles more Northward It is almost an Island having to the North and South two Bays for Gallies and Boats and I judge that Ships may ride in the Southern most safe though near the Current On the shore are some old dry Stations for Gallies The Town looketh better from without then within as do most of the Towns in Turky For the Mosques or Churches and Bazestans or places of Traffick have their high Cupuloes covered with Lead which with the Minaretts or high slender Steeples from whence they sound out their shrill Voices instead of Bells at their times of Prayer and the goodly tall Cypress mixt among the houses make a very pleasant prospect But the houses are inconsiderable and low Built generally of Wood and Earth the streets narrow and sometimes covered with Wood
Adrianople and several more Villages four or five Miles distant from each other All about these parts are the Serraglioes or Countrey-houses of the great Men among the Turks just as it is Ten or Twenty Miles about London with their Gardens Vineyards and Groves of Cypress-trees The evening we came to St. Stephano's about nine or ten Miles from Constantinople a large Town and most of the Inhabitants Christians Here we lay all Night in our Boat and parting early in the Morning we doubled the Cape of the Bosphorus Thracius which is about three Miles from the Southern Walls of Constantinople where we arrived Monday the Thirteenth of September The End of the first Book THE Second BOOK Containing an ACCOUNT of CONSTANTINOPLE And the Adjacent Places COnstantinople being the Chief Seat of the Ottoman now as it was sometime of the Roman and after the Division of the Grecian Empire hath therefore been still the most frequented of all these Parts both by Men of Business and Curiosity and deservedly the City of all others of which Travellers have endeavoured to give the most accurate Accounts In doing whereof many of them have so well acquitted themselves that I believe we have not more exact Surves of any of our Neighbouring Places in Europe than they have already obliged the World with Without speaking of Bellonius Gillius Petro Dellavalle Monsieur Tavernier we have enough of our own Country whose Pains to this Place and the whole Turkish Empire merit Thanks of all Impartial and Ingenious Men as Mr. Sands many Years since Mr. Rycaut who when Consul to His Majesty at Smyrna published an exact Account of their Policy and since his Return other Treatises concerning this Empire Lastly Mr. Smith B D. and Fellow of Magdalen Colledge in Oxford whom especially as to the Topographical Account of this City I look upon to be the most Exact of any other Therefore knew I how to give my particular Remarks entirely separate from what hath been already written with any satisfactory Coherence I would spare both my Self and Reader the Trouble of any further Account of it than to let them know by these Observations That I also have been to see this so celebrated Place But since that cannot easily be done and that the Reader who is desirous to have some Information about this City as he goes along may not be disappointed altogether of his Expectation I shall give some Account of those Things which are there principally remarkable tho' it be much the same with what is already given by others which I shall dispatch with all the Brevity that can consist with a due Observance to and Illustration of such other Remarks of my own as have not been taken Notice of so far as I know by any that have gone before me COnstantinople is now vulgarly call'd Stambol by the Turks THE NAME but by the Greeks more often Istampoli which must needs be a Corruption from the Greek by such Unskilfulness of their Language as I have before observed Tither from Constantinopolis which in Process of Time might be corrupted into Stinpoli or Istanpoli or rather from its being call'd 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For the Turks hearing the Greeks express their going to Constantinople by 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which they pronounce Is-tin-polin and oft-times for Brevitys sake Stinpoli might soon ignorantly call it Istanpoli or Stambol according as either of them came in Vogue first And therefore I think theirs is a groundless Fancy who fetch it from the Turkish word Istamboal which signifyes a City full of or shounding in the true Faith the Name being so apparently of Greek original with a small Variation after the Turkish Way as Mr. Smith hath very well observed Our Modern Geographers LATITUDE in their Maps place this City in Forty-three Degrees of Latitude But Dr. Covel Chaplain to Sir John Finch the English Ambassador when I was there assured us That by many Observations made with the Astrolabe at the Aequinoctials he found it to have only Forty Degrees and Fifty six Minutes which agreed also with the Observations of a late Jesuite a good Mathematician who lived there and also that Adrianople hath Forty Degrees and Eighteen Minutes Constantinople is Situate on a Chersonesus SITUATION which hath the Propontis South the Bosphorus East the Harbour called by Strabo 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now Perami North and is joyned to the Continent of Thrace Westwards It is distant from the Asian-Shore about a League over the Bsphorus and from Galata on the Northern side of the Harbour about a Mile It is of a Triangular Figure two of whose sides to wit towards the Bosphorus FIURE and the Harbour are as two Segments of a Circle bending much inwards to each other The First beginning from the Promontory called now St. Demetrio whereon Byzantium was antiently built but now the Grand Signior's Seraglio and running thence South-East-wards to the Seven Towers is counted about Five or Six Miles That towards the Harbour is about Three Miles and the other joyning to the Continent about Four Miles So that it is about Thirteen Miles in Circumference although they commonly count it Fifteen The Walls on Two fides towards the Bosphorus WALLS and the Harbours are built so small a Distance from the Water that in many Places there is not room to pass between the Square Towers that jet out of it at equal Distances and the Sea They are high but look very ruinous and do all likelihood have been but little if at all repaired since the Time of the Greek Emperours of whom we found several Inscriptions set on high on the Towers and many places of the Walls as of Theophilus Manuel Camnenus Basilius Constantinus Porphyâ—â—â—itus Romanus and Joannes Paleologus as you may see in these Inscriptions we there copied 1. ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΠΧΡΙΣΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ 2. ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙΜΙ ΧΑΗΛ ΠΙΣΤΩΠΕΠΧΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΠAt the Seven Towers towards the Bosphorus †ΙΠΕΠΧΠΑΥΤΟ ΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΠΑΛΑΙΟ ΛΟΓΟΥ Towards the Bosphorus ΠΑΣΙ ΡΩΜΑΙΟΙΣ ΜΕΓΑΣ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΗΣ ΕΓΕΙΡΕ ΡΩΜΑÎΟΣ ÎΕΟΠΠΑÎΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΠΤΟÎΔΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΠΕΚ ΒΑΘΡῶν Ibid. ΠΙΡΓΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟÎΣΤΑÎΤΙÎΟΥ ΠΙΣΤΩΠΕΠΧΠΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΠΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΣ ΒΑΣΕΙΛΕΙΣ ΡΩΜΕΩΠIbid. ΑÎΕΚΑΙÎΕΣΘΗ ΕΠΙ ΜΑÎΟΥΗΛ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟΧΥ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΡΩΜΕΙΟΥ ΥΙΟΥ ΕΠÎΗΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΡΩΜΑΙΩΠΤΟΥ ΚΟΜÎΗÎΟΥ ΕΠΕΤΕΙ ΦΚΟΜΒ Ibid. Near the Seraglio ΟÎΤΗΣ ΘΑΛΑΣΣΗΣ ΘΡΑΥΣΜΟΣ ΜΑΚΡΩ ΧΡΟÎΩ ΚΛΙΔΩÎΙ ΠΟΛΛΩ ΚΑΙ ΕΦΟΔΡΩ ΡΕΓÎΥΜΕÎΗ ΕΠΕΣΕΙΠΚΑΤΗÎΑΓΚΑΣΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΠΕΚ ΒΑΘΡΩΠΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΗΓΕΙΡΕ ΕΥΣΕΒΗΣ ΑÎΑΞ They are built of rough Stone and here and there patched up with Brick being single towards the Sea but some part towards the Land double There are about Five and Twenty Gates Seven towards the Propontis GATES Seven towards the Land and Eleven towards the Haven Every way from the Sea-side the Land riseth higher PROSPECT WITHOUT untill it is swelled into an indifferent high Hill which runneth in a Ridge Westwards and hath Seven Points higher and more Perspicuous than
Protection the Fourth General Council was assembled and held at Chalcedon wherein the Heresies of Eutyches and Dioscorus were condemned and the Verity of the Divine and Humane Nature of Christ without Confusion of Substance was asserted This Pillar is now standing in the Court of a private House joyning to the Bath of Ibrahim Basha near the Odas of the Janizaries which is about Mid-way between the Hippodrome and Adrianople Gate not far from the great Street When we were in this part of the Town THE JANIZARIES QUARTERS we went to see the Quarters of the Janizaries which are two great Buildings near together without any great Beauty or Ornament but capable of receiving of a great number of Men where all that Order ought to inhabit together and live Batchellors But now they leave off the strictness of that Discipline great part of them having only their Names enrolled in their Books and receive the Grand Signior's Pay but Marry follow Trades and reside in their own Houses up and down the Town They are two oblong Courts with a small Mosque or Chappel in the middle of them where those that reside there daily do their Devotions Instead of Inns in Constantinople KANS. and indeed all over Turkey they have publick Buildings they call Karavan Serais or Kans erected in convenient Parts of the City for the Markets and Traffick of different Commodities These are for all Men of what Quality Condition Country or Religion soever and there the Poorest have room to lodge in and the Richest have no more As to their Beds and Entertainment they must bring and provide them themselves or lodge on the Floor or at most on a Mat which in some Kans the Kan-keeper is obliged to provide They are of two sorts the old Fashion ones are but like a great Barn without any Partitions or Distinctions of Rooms or Lodgings They have only round the Wall a Bank raised about a Foot and half high from the Ground kept from falling down by a Wall of the same height paved on the Top and about seven or eight Foot broad At four or five Yards distance round the Wall are placed small Chimneys Between which they lay their Beds tying their Horses and giving them Meat at their Feet But the other Kans of later Building and in great Cities are more stately they are usually built in the Form of a Quadrangle with Two and sometimes Three Stories one above the other covered with so many Leaded Cuppaloes as it is divided into Appartments of about ten Foot square where each Company keep their Concerns private to themselves with as great Convenience as their manner of Life will permit And about them there are commonly Attendance who for a small Vale will provide you such things as you have Occasion for So many Stories as they are high so many Galleries are built one above another round the Kan into which these little Chambers open These Kans look very stately without and are not ungrateful to the Sight within They are usually built of Stone having a large Gate to enter into them and in the middle of the Area is built a small Mosque or Chappel to do their Devotion in supply'd with Water both for Religious and Necessary Uses In my Opinion they might be accommodated to the Use of our Christian Countries For the generality of Inns Taverns and Ale-houses are grown such Places of all manner of Debaucheries that I am sure they are become the Shame of our Religion if not of the Policies of most Christian Countries For they not only harbour Prophaneness Luxury and Debauchery but are the Receptacles of idle and slothful Persons and indeed of Out-lanes Thieves and Robbers Their Keepers extorting for their Entertainment Rates without Reason or Modesty and in a word are the Destruction of the Souls Bodies and Estates of many Thousands not only of Poor but Rich also and when all this is done they oftner die Beggars than Rich Men themselves Whereas if such Places as these were erected in convenient Places of the Roads in Cities and in Market-Towns and put into the Hands of honest poor Men to serve Strangers Travellers and Tradesmen Poor Men might do their Business with greater Expedition and less Charge carry home their Gains to their Wives and Children and not spend them before they return from Market Here Rich Men might have provided for the necessary Conveniences of their Journeys without Extravagances have Opportunity to be Charitable and by their Examples of Devotion and Christian Behaviour give Glory to God their Creatour and mighty Redeemer especially if they had Chappels and Chaplains with a convenient Stipend annexed to them The Exchange which they call the Bazar or Bezestan BAZAR is also a Beautiful Building roofed with Cuppalo's covered with Lead sustained by many Arches and Pillars within and is situate toward the Western part of the City The chief Trade in it consisting in Fur-Gowns Vests fine Saddles and Bridles Semiters and other Armour We soon wished our selves out of it it was so crouded with Brokers that sold old Cloaths we apprehended were of those who dyed of the Plague The Publick Bagnios or Baths BAGNIOS are none of the smallest Ornaments of this City These are usually placed near their Mosques because they use them in cleansing themselves according to their Superstition as well as for the Health of their Bodies being their chief Remedy in all their Diseases as really they are the best Physick of their Country We went to see only one of these near the Mosque of the Sultan's Mother because the Plague was so much in the City and these much frequented by the Infected They have a Room without with a Sopha round it to undress themselves and a large square Room beyond that covered with a Cuppalo thorough which the Light is let by Bell-glasses and about it are many little Appartments covered with small Cuppalo's much resembling that built in London only they have usually a great Bason in the Middle filled with hot Water into which they go to bathe themselves We crossed the Water one day to see the Antient Aqueduct OLD AQUEDUCT that joyns the two Hills together on which the Mosques of Suleman and Bajazet stand of which we had a fair Prospect from Gallata It is built strong and high with large Arches one above the other in the deepest part of the Valley but is now dis-joyned from the Eastern Hill and of no present Use The Water being now conveyed about the City by Pipes under Ground But the Aqueducts that bring the Water to the City are very Magnificent of which more hereafter We took a Barge another day and went to see the Seven Towers SEVEN TOWERS as they call a Castle situate in that Angle of the City nearest the Propontis because it bath so many eminent Spired Towers In our way we put a Shore on the Seraglio point where towards the Bosphorus is a Plat-form planted with a
and two Convents in Chalcis At that on the Western-side of the Island we lay and were well treated by the Caloyers This Convent being ruined was rebuilt by one Panagiotes not long since Druggerman to the Grand Signior and so much in his favour that he obtained many Kindnesses for his Fellow-Christians of the Greek Church as the repairing several of their Churches and Monasteries especially the keeping of the Holy Sepulcher at Hierusalem But this he kept secret until he came to die because as some think he feared the ill Practices of the Roman Church who have two Convents at Constantinople one of Jesuits and another of Franciscans lying at lurch to disable that Church and would never have patiently suffered so great a loss He lieth buried here and hath a Monument with an Epitaph expressing his Office Here is also the Tomb of Sir Edward Barton Ambassadour to this Court in Queen Elizabeth's days The next Morning early we parted thence and leaving the Islands Epite and Principe on the left hand we arrived at the other Promontory of the Gulf of Ishmit which by Ptolomy seemeth to have been called Posidium Promontorium Parting thence after Dinner CIANUS SINUS BESBICUS OR ISOLA DEL PAPA TRICHLIA we passed with a side Wind another Bay called in times past Cianus Sinus of the Name of the City Cium leaving at our right hand about half way but without this Bay the Island Besbicus now called the Pope's Island we came to Shore near Trichlia situate on an Hill Thence rowing along the Shore a Mile further East-wards we passed by a large Village called not Sequino as our Map-makers have it but Syky SYKY from the abundance of wild Fig-trees that grow there as the word imports There is a Church they call Hagios Strategos which is the Name they ordinarily give St Michael the Arch-Angel which is to say the Holy Captain By it on the Shore is a Fountain they call Christos the Water of which they say worketh Miracles and therefore they name it Hagiasma or Holy Water We rowed about four or five Miles further and arrived in the Evening at Mountania This is a large Town MOUNTANIA and hath a very good Kan two Stories high separated into little Rooms for better Accommodation Here we lodged and were invited to drink Coffee by a Franck Renegado who shewed us a most obscene Puppet-Show in which he told us He pleased himself at idle times as an innocent Diversion For he pretended to practise Physick This hath been an antient and large City by the Fragments of Antiquity every where to be seen But what its Name was formerly I know not unless Cium that gave the Gulph this Name which was after called Prusia 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 from Prusias Son of Perseus whose Father Philip had destroyed it I find our Geographers make no distinction between This and that Prusia ad Olympum setting both This and Olympus at the end of this Gulph whereas it is at least fifteen or sixteen Miles from it This Prusia had also near it another Town antiently called Myrloea but the same Prusias called it by his Wives Name Apamea which might be one of those others but now named on this Shore Lib III. Fig I Olympus Asiaticus 1 the Lake on the Mountain 2 the Plain on the Mountain 3 the Castle 4 the Kan 5 Grand Signior Stables 6 Capligior the hot Bathes Hence in the Morning having hired Horses at four Timins apiece we proceeded to Prusia or as some pronounce it Bursia Just out of Mountania we ascended up a Hill which if this Town were formerly Cium must have been called Argenthonius where they celebrated the Games of Hyla in Honour of Hylas Hercules his Companion in his Voyage from Argos to Colchus Hence we rode about four hours through a fruitful Plain tilled by some poor Villages scattered here and there whose Inhabitants owe more Caratch than they are worth one whereof we passed through about half way called Mesanpoula and came by Noon to Prousa ad Olympum Mysiae For it is situated at the Foot of this Mount Olympus of Mysia MED 23. upon a small Hill a little separated from it Here Ajax killed himself when he fled from Troy and therefore they expressed it in their Money of which I have a piece bearing on the one side the Head of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius and on the other a Figure falling upon his Sword at the Foot of a Mountain with these Letters about it ΠΡΟΥϹΑΕΩΠof the Prousians This City hath one of the pleasantest Comings to it imaginable the Country on this side of it being a large Plain near the City shaded with Mulberry Walnut and Chesnut-Trees planted with Gardens on each side of the high way which is plain and with an easie Ascent bringeth you to the City Beyond it the Mountain riseth to a vast height made green with Chesnut and Firr-Trees almost to the top which is still cover'd with Snow This is a City fair large and populous in Turks Jews Armenians and Greeks and was the Chief of the Ottoman Empire before Constantinople was taken from the Emperour Constantine the Eighth of that Name and last Greek Emperour But Prusia parted with its Christian Liberty to the Turkish Tyranny with more difficulty having before it was rendred above a Hundred thousand Christians slain by those Infidels and abundance more in cold Blood afterwards For which reason they pay also double the Caratch that any other Place doth and are not suffer'd to inhabit within the Walls but only in the Suburbs which nevertheless they bear with Patience esteeming it a Mark of their Courage The Place is esteem'd to contain now about Forty thousand Turks Twelve thousand Jews but not so many Greeks nor Armenians But Philadar a Town four or five Miles from Prusia consists of only Christians The Conquerour Orchanes did not think fit to dismantle the Town because he made it his principal Residence so that the Walls are yet standing which seem to have been built by the Greek Emperours out of the Ruins of some former City as the Marble-Architraves broken Pillars and Cornishes mixed with the other Matter that composeth them do testifie Some Inscriptions also we saw and copied as we walked the Rounds of them which they esteem about six Miles Not quite in the middle but rather more to the South-East-side of the Town is a high Rock which was the Castle and is naturally strong but its old Walls wherewith it was fortified in Times past are much ruined It was worth our pains to go up to it because thence we had the Prospect of the whole Town and told above thirty Mosques by the Minorets The Sultans have built six or seven Royal Mosques here whereof that of Adalin is most beautiful The Form square and my Companion saith he told Twenty five Cuppaloes of equal bigness covered with Lead for its Roof In this Castle are two Soraglio's one old and the other new The
to our view Yet its hoary Head shewed it self more lofty at that distance being before hid from our sight by its broad Shoulders Here we passed over a little River running into the Granicus and towards the Evening came to the Banks of the Granicus it self which was the first Theater of Alexander's great Glory For here he overcame Darius his Governours and with them all Asia within Taurus unto the River Euphrates We went sometime along the Banks and about two Hours before Night we passed it over a Wooden Bridge sustained by Piles of Stone which perhaps were formerly to hold up the Stone Arches of it From a little Hill in the way we saw a Mountain West of Mountania where the River Granicus joyned to that they call the Ascanius emptieth it self into the Sea which together must needs bâ— a great River but now not Navigable by reason of the Turkish Sloth which letteth it be choaked up with Mud. This day I observed in the Fields a kind of Abrotanum an Annual Plant whose Seeds are very pleasant to the Taste and also another Perennial Thirdly Melilote with white Flowers growing above a Man's height it is a Perennial Plant almost of a shrubby Substance For the Flowers of the Summer being past it now had new ones or new Sprouts out of the same Stalk There grow wild also abundance of Plane-Trees along the River which after we had passed we came to our Conack about a Mile or two further at a Village on the River called Susugerli SUSUGERLI that is as much as to say the place of Boufalo's Here is a good Kan but we lay not at it but at a Turk's House as bad For We and our Horses were treated in the same Room the difference was only that we were set up a little higher on a Sofa on one side of the Room and they on the other side on the Ground Our Supper was Turkish Pasties that were made of Meat minced fine Marrow Bread crummed and Sugar baked between two Leaves of Paste in Tin-pans The next Dish was Dulma which is a Compound of Meat Suet Onyons and Spice made up like Sausage-Meat wrapped in Cabbage or Vine-Leaves and are either boiled or fried and then served with a little Vinegar on them and are both very good The third was a chief Dish among the Turks like to Pilau which is ordinarily made of Rice but this was Wheat or Barley peeled and boil'd with a Hen or other Meat They call it Tragana Afterwards we had a Banquet of Sweet-Meats made of boiled Wine The next Morning we parted early and passed still along the Granicus where I remarked growing abundance of Asphodelus junci folio Six or seven Miles further over the Water Dr Pickering made us observe at a distance the Ruins of a Castle which is thought to have been built by Alexander when he passed this River This Country beareth little besides Corn and Pasture because only inhabited by Turks no Vineyards nor Wine to be had About Mid-way we came to pass between two Ridges of a Mountain where standeth an old Kan called the Iron Gate from the Gate of the Kan which was such The antient Name was M. Timnus as near as I can guess by Ptolomy This is a noted place for Robbers which made us keep close together and stand to our Arms. And not above two or three Miles thence when we lighted to bait by a Fountain in the Fields by the way we found the Skull of a Man who in all likelihood had been murdered travelling the Road. This Morning we over-took and passed by several great Caravans of Camels and Dromedaries each Drove of which had an Ass or Mule to lead the way all bound for Smyrna We made our Conack or days Journey by three or four of the Clock in the Afternoon arriving at a Village called Mandragorai a pitiful place consisting only of a few Hutts built of Earth baked in the Sun We lodged in the Kan which was no better than a large Barn with a Sopha or Bank round the Wall of it within raised from the Ground about a foot and half or two foot high eight foot broad and at every eight or ten foot distance a little Chimney between which Spaces they lie the Kan-keeper bringing only Rush-Matts on which we laid our Quilts we brought with us In the Chimney we might dress our Meat our selves or chuse to fast Our Horses were tied at our Beds-feet to Posts and upon so much of the Sopha as the Bed does not take up are fed with chopped Straw and Barley For they feed their Horses here with neither Hay nor Oats but Straw which maketh them lightsome and never pursey This Kan is held up in the middle by Marble Pillars set confusedly on their Corinthian Capitals of very curious Work which made us believe that this had been some more antient place My Companion from the resemblance of the Name thinketh That it might have been the City Mandropolis mentioned by Pliny to be in Phrygia where then we were From this Kan is a little Walk to a small Stream which they say is the River Granicus But this upon more collect Thoughts I do not believe nor that the River we passed the day before and this are one and the same River For I have noted in my Journal That we passed by the River supposed the Granicus against the Stream which is impossible if the other be true having passed it the day before running West-wards For I remember that when at last we passed that supposed to be the Granicus it was near the Mountains over which we went and but a small Stream shaded with Plane-Trees near the Iron-Gate not far from whence I believed the Spring to rise The examining of which hath made another Errour manifest to me which is That the Lake and River passing by Lupadi is not the Ascanius as is generally believed and that the mouths of it and the Granicus are a vast way off one from the other if any credit may be given to Ptolomy's Tables My Opinion is first That that Lake before-mentioned North of Olympus and the River from it is the true Ascanius emptying it self into the Sinus Cianus of the Propontis For both Strabo and Ptolomy make the Ascanius to be in Bithynia as all Geographers place it only a French-man one Monsieur Phide will have it in the middle of Galatia which is manifestly false Secondly That River passing by Lupadi or Lubat I believe to be the Rhyndicus and those next Streams may probably be those which collect themselves to make the Granicus but then they fall not into that River with the Lake by Lubat if Ptolomy is true but if they do it is but part of the Rhyndicus and not the Granicus For he giveth the Fountain and Mouth of that River above a Degrees difference in Longitude and Latitude But as to the Granicus he giveth no account at all of the Fountain but only of the
Mouth which he placeth between Parium and Lampsacus emptying it self into the Propontis nor yet of the River Aesopus Wherefore these may be esteemed some other Rivers of Phrygia or Mysia Minor or Hellespontick Mysia which I suppose to be extended until the Mountain by the Iron-Gate or Mount Timnus now mentioned Whence also I believe Mysia major begins and reacheth unto the Mountain by Thyatira Thirdly This River at Mandragorai abovementioned is most probably the Caicus whose Fountain Ptolomy putteth in the same Latitude with the Rhyndicus but not in the same Longitude and Strabo makes the Caicus to pass through the best part of Mysia before it comes to Pergamo But this by the way I was going to tell what Plants I found by it in my Walk this Evening 1. PLANTS AT MANDRAGORAL Scordium Lanuginosum sive Creticum Downy or Candy Scordion 2. Alsine Lotoides sive Anthylloides sive Spergulae facie C. Bauhinus 3. Gingidium Hispanicum which the Spaniards call Visnago in great esteem among them for Tooth-picks as Dr Pickering informed me when he shewed it me growing all over these Countries The next morning we parted thence and soon passed the River Whence up and down in a rough Mountainous Country we travelled till about three in the Afternoon when we arrived at a Village under a Mountain called Courougouli or the Dry Lake For the Plain round about in Winter is filled with Water like a Lake and in the Summer is dry Plants here observed were 1. PLANTS AT COUROUGOULI Leucoium Alyfsoides clypeatum majus C. Bauhin Dioscorides Gerard page 465. Mine agreeth well with common Moonwort only the Leaves of it as it groweth bigger put out here and there a little Angle and grow round about it near the ground in a Tuft Whence it sendeth but a single Stalk as I observed in most of them set with oval Shields c. and the whole Plant very woolly like Woollen Cloth as it yet remaineth in my Book But that change may happen through Alteration of Climate Lib III. Fig IIII Origanum Spicatum montis Sipyli folijs glabris W 2. But the Plant which pleased me most to see here was a most beautiful kind of Origanum with long purple Flowers Mr. Merchant calleth it Origanum Heracleoticum Flore purpureo But Dr. Morison much better hath named it Origanum spicatum It is an Origanum different from any that hath been seen in our parts From black stringy and creeping Roots rise up many downy round Stalks beset in pairs of Leaves at first somewhat downy and ribbed with such small Ribs as are hardly perceiveable to the Touch. The Shape is round near the Stem and endeth in a sharp point like the small Myrtle These shoot a foot and half or two foot high from the Ground the Stalk and Leaves growing smooth and towards the top in pairs it sendeth out very small Twigs which end in a scaly Flower like a Hop sometimes near an inch long and of a light purple colour between whose scales come small Purple Flowers When they are bruised they send forth a weak Scent something resembling Stoecas Arabicus I found it both in Flower and Seed with which I have furnished several Gardens And it flourisheth now very well at Oxford The next day we passed over a good high Mountain whence we had the Prospect of a large Plain East of us and came very early to Basculumbai a Village of about two or three hundred Houses BASCULUMBAI having a Kan and three Mosques also We lodged at an Acquaintance of the Doctor 's a Turk that made as much of us as he could This place tradeth much in Cotton I took notice of the Instrument they separate the Seed from the Cotton with which is only two Rowls one of Wood about two or three inches diameter and another small one of Iron set in a frame so as to rouch one another each of which being turn'd round the other turneth also and letteth the Cotton pass between as it goeth about but leaveth the round Seeds behind Here I observed a little River which may fall into the Caicus Thursday the Nineteenth of October we parted hence early in the morning and about a Mile from the Town left the common Road to Smyrna on the right hand and passed through a pleasant Country mixed with Woods and Pastures until we came to a Mountain stretched out in length East and West yet not very high It hath a Gap in the middle through which we passed along a Stream great part of which is carried in Aqueducts under-ground to Thyatira This Mountain is supposed to part Mysia major and Lydia To defend this Passage on the right hand a good height are the Ruins of an old Castle called by the Turks Akeisar or White Castle as they do also now call Thyatira which we saw from hence over a Plain about two Miles further South and arrived thither about Noon Thyatira is a very antient City in Lydia or in the Confines of Mysia a Colony of the Macedonians according to Strabo situate almost in the mid-way between Pergamo and Sardis in a very delightful Plain But since more famous in Holy Writ being one of those Churches of Asia the Son of God vouchsafed to write to by the Holy Apostle St John THYATIRA shewing them what they must look for if they did not reclaim themselves from the Fornication with which they were polluted through the perswasion of some who taught them to eat Meats offered unto Idols thereby to dissemble the Truth Upon which warning how well they reformed is uncertain But certain that Christianity is almost extinct in this place there being not above ten Christians in the Town destitute both of Church and Priest Their Patience and Suffering undoubtedly is great among that disproportionable number of Infidels For the Town is very populous in Turks and may contain four or five thousand Souls It s antient Temporal as well as Spiritual Beauty is destroyed its Marble Buildings are buried in their own Ruins Houses built of Clods of Earth and dried in the Sun only remaining and it s once glorious Name obliterated Insomuch that a very little while ago none knew where it was to be found nor where it did stand Some thought with the ignorant Greeks that it was Tyreth a Town South-East of Ephesus about twenty Miles where they pretend they have the Apocalypse of St John's own writing as I have heard Until the Curiosity and Piety of the English Consul of Smyrna Mr Ricaut with several of the Merchants whose Devotions were raised by their Minister Mr Lake gave a Period to this gross Errour by finding this to be the antient Thyatira For they met with many Inscriptions here where the name Thyatira is mentioned of which all we could find being a dozen we copied with as great exactness as we could which gave us a great deal of News of this Place The first we were shewed was at a kind of
Merciful Hand of God towards us and therefore to Him as it was most just we gave the Praise who never faileth those that put their Trust in Him Not far from hence we began to turn the Promontory of the Mountain if I may so call it upon whose high Clifts I saw the Ruins of a Castle and lost the River Caister until we came to a narrow Valley between two Mountains where again we recovered the River and passed it over by a Stone-Bridge about a couple of Miles from the Castle of Ephesus where we arrived a little before it was dark Campus Ephesius Lib III Fig VI. 1 the Bridg. 2 the Castle 3 the Aqueduct 4 St JohsÌ„ Church 5 the place of a Theator 6 grottos of the Sleepers 7 ruins of a Church 8 St Johns fort 9 a Theator 10 Amphitheator Ephesus is built in a fine Plain EPHESUS stretched in length West-ward to the Sea I believe four or five Miles and may be in many places two at least broad so encompassed about with high Mountains and rocky Clifts on the North East and South sides in so just a proportion that I can fansie it resembleth nothing more than the Cirques and the Stadiums of the Antients It hath the Mountain Gallecius on the North-side from the Sea to the Passage through which the River Caister runs Parallel to that South it hath the Mountain Corresius if I guess right out of Strabo running from West to East and thence bending up circular fortifieth the East side as well as the South The River Caister runneth through it entring the Passage between the Mountains and leaving the City South of it after various windings and turnings through the Plain mixeth it self with the Sea near the Western Promontory of the South Mountain For the City was built on the South side the River principally upon two Rocks about half a Mile from each other The first is near the East end of the Plain whereon the Castle now standeth guarded by the Turks which seemeth to be of no older date than the later Greek Emperours being built of other more antient Ruins as the Fragments of more curious pieces of Marble carelesly mixed among the other Stones assured us Over the Gate of it are set three large Tables of Marble carved in Basso-relievo The first is quite defaced the middle one is of excellent Work The first Figure of it is a Horse with a Man lying under his feet who seemeth to have an antient Armenian Bonnet on his Head A little further is another Figure holding the foot of the first Man seeming to drag him along The next is a Woman in an humble Posture demanding somewhat of another Figure standing in a Roman Habit so that it seems to be some Roman Triumph but what it is uncertain Some have thought it to represent the Destruction of Troy and Hector drawn by the Chariot of Achilles but no Chariot is there to be seen Others That it represented the Persecution of the Primitive Christians under the Romans with less probability Further within this Gate on the Castle Wall we saw a Marble whereon is cut a Face representing the Moon with two Snakes one on one side of the Head and the other on the other joyning their Heads in the middle of the Crown and their Tails pointing outwards with each of them a Circle in such shape that they both together represent a Bow The Figure I designed there and did not perceive any thing of a Bow otherwise than as I described Which was to represent the Heathen Deity they called Hecate Triformis The Moon in the Heavens represented by the large round Visage Proserpine in Hell represented by the Snakes and Diana upon Earth by the Bow Lib III ΠΑÎΗΓΥΡΙΠΚΑΙ ΑΤΕΛΕΙΟ ΕΧΕΙΡΙΑΣ ΕΙΣ ΟΛΟΠΤΟΠÎΥΜΟΠΤΗΣ ΘΕΟΥ ΜΕ Λ ÎΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΠΑΡΤΕΜΙΣΙ ΚΡΙΣΙΠΚΑΤΑΣΤΗΣΑÎΤΑ ΑΟΕΜΑΤΑ ΤΟΙΣ ΑΤΩÎΟΙΣ ΑΥΞΑΣΑÎΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΑÎΛΡΙ ΣΤΩΠÎΙΚΗΣΑÎΤΩΠÎΑΣ ΤΗ ΣΑÎΤΛ ΤΕΙΜΗΠΑÎΑΣΤΗΣΑÎΤΑ φΑΙÎΙΟΥ φΑΥΣ ΤΟΥ ΣΥÎΓΕÎΟΥΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ Coming into the Town North of this we found two or three Inscriptions half in the ground From one of them we could only learn the erecting of an Image to the Goddess Diana as the whole City was filled with her superstitious Worship And on the right hand of the way we left the ruins of an Aqueduct coming from the Eastern-hills to the Castle which as I understood by those that gave it me had this Inscription on it in Latin and Greek which was its Dedication to the Honour of Diana of the Ephesians to Augustus and Tiberius Caesars and to the City of Ephesus But my Companion mentions it about six Miles off on an Aqueduct near Scala Nova but undoubtedly he is mistaken for the Inscription it self although not well copied proveth it so For not knowing of any Inscription on it until we returned we contented our selves with a view of it at a distance But it being both in Latin and Greek comparing them together I have found the Errours of both and restored it thus DIANAE EPHE ET IMP. CAESARI AVG. ET TI. CAESARI AVG. ET CIVITATI EPHE SEXTILLIVS P. F. VOT POBLIO CVM OFILLIA A. F. BASSA VXORE SUA ET C. OFILLIO PROCVLO F. SVO CETERISQVE LEIBEREIS SVEIS PONTEM DE SVA PECVNIA FACIENDA CVRAVIT ΑΡΤΕΜΙΔΙ ΕΦΕΣΙΑ ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΙ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΙΒΗΡΩΙ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ..... ΥΙΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΩΙ Δ ΗΜΩΙ ΤΩΠΗΦΕΣΙΩΠΓΑΙΟΣ ΣΕΞΤΙΛΙΟΣ ΠΟΓΛΙΟΥ ΥΙΟΣ ΟΥΟΤΟΥΡΙΑ ΠΟΛΛΙΩΠΣΥΠΟΦΕΛΛΙΑ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΘΥΓΑΤΡΙ ΒΑΣΣΗΙ ΤΗ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΓΥÎαιΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΓΑΙΩΙ ΟΦΙΛιω ΠΡΟΚΥΛΩΙ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΥΙΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΛΟΙΠΟΙΣ ΤΕΚÎΟΙΣ ΤΗΠΓΕΦΥΡΑΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΑÎΕΘΗΚΕΠAll the Inhabitants of the once so famous Ephesus the Chief of this Asia as the Mistress governing the rest by the Residence of the Proconsul here amount not now to above forty or fifty Families of Turks living in poor thatched Cottages without one Christian among them EPHESUS now AJA-SABUCK They lie in a Knot together on the South-side of the Castle and are called now Aja-Sabuck St Johns Church now a Mosque Lib III. Fig VI The whole Face of the Earth about them is covered with Ruins fragment of Marble Pedestals Pillars and all parts of most antient and noble structure now broken maim'd and disunited I saw in the Street an Inscription almost defaced upon a Marble Sepulcher But that which most of all was the Object of our Curiosity in this part of the Town was the Church of St John the Evangelist which we desired to see and with much ado obtain'd of the scrupulous Keeper for half a Dollar for my self and Monsieur Spon passing for my Scrivan or Clerk which he might then easily do having his Pen and Ink in his Hand and for this Device we were beholding to our Armenian This Church is now sacrilegiously turned into a Mahumetan Mosque It stands on the West-side of the Castle and is no extraordinary Edifice It hath a Court on the North-side and is a long Building standing East and West covered with a double Roof
miserable Church thus marked out by God who being reduced to a very inconsiderable number live by the Sweat of their Brows in digging and planting the Gardens of the Turks they live amongst and serve having neither Church nor Priest among them Nor are the Turks themselves there very considerable either for Number or Riches being only Herdsmen to the Cattle feeding on those spacious Plains dwelling in a few pitiful Earthen Huts having one Mosque perverted to that use from a Christian Church Thus is that once Glorious City of the rich King Croesus now reduced to a Nest of worse than Beggars Their Pactolus hath long since ceased to yield them Gold and the Heavens to recover them their dying Glories Yet there are some Remains of noble Structures Remembrancers of their prosperous State long since destroyed For at the East-side of the City are the Ruins of an old Castle and of a great Church and North and South Palaces and other proud Buildings humbled at present to the Earth Some Inscriptions I had given me of this Place of which this is the most considerable wherein the Council and Senate of Sardis honoured the Emperour Antoninus Pius as a Mark of their good Will ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΑ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΑ ΘΕΟΥ ΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΥ ΥΙΟΠΘΕΟΥ ΤΡΑΙΑÎΟΥ ΥΙΩÎΟΠΤ. ΑΙΛΙΟΠΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΠΑÎΤΩÎΙÎΟΠΕΥΣΕΒΗΠΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΠΔΗΜΑΡΧΙΚΗΣ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ Î’. ΥΠΑΤΟΠΤΡΙΤΟΠΠΑΤΗΡΑ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΩΠΣΑΡΔΙΑÎΩΠΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΠΗΡΩΑ ΕΥÎΟΙΑΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΧΑΡΙΠTo conclude It is situate about a days Journey South of Thyatira at the Foot and on the North-side of the famous Mountain Tmolus called now by the Turks Bozdag or Joy-Mountain They have the Prospect of a spacious Plain North of it watered by many Streams partly issuing out of a Hill South-West of the Town and partly from the Tmolus from whence also the Pactolus issueth out of the East side of it and with the rest empty themselves into the Hermus This Place is yet called by the Turks Sart or Sards not much differing from its antient Name Sardis Of which I have a Monument preserved in an antient piece of their Money coyned in the time of the Emperour Gordianus Pius Med. 60 61 62 63 64 65 66. about the Reverse whereof I read ϹΑΡΔΙΑ ... .. ΩΚΟΡΩΠI saw two others very rare the one of the Empress Tranquillina and the other of Caracalla with an Urn on the Reverse which containeth a Branch of Olives and under is written ΧΡΥϹΑÎΘΙÎΑ ϹΑΡΔΙΑÎΩΠΒ. ÎΕΩΚΟΡΩΠThe Sport Chysanthina of the Sardians twice Neocorus Another stamped by the common Assembly of Asia there in honour of Drusus and Germanicus Brother and Nephew to the Emperour Tiberius And another very curious one my Comrade produceth having the Emperour Commodus seated in the midst of the Zodiack with Celestial Signs engraven on 't and on the other a Figure with a Crown-mure with these Letters about it ΣΑΡΔΙΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΑΥΔΙΑΣ ΕΛΛΑΔΟΣ Α ΜΗΤΡΟΠΟΛΙΣ Sardis the first Metropolis of Asia Greece and Audia but where and what Audia was I find not The Doom of Laodicea seemeth to have been yet more terrible LAODICEA than any of the rest For it is now utterly destroyed and forsaken of Men an Habitation only for Wolves Foxes and Chacals a Den of Dragons Snakes and Vipers And that because the Lord hath executed the Judgment that he hath spoken upon her That all the World might know and tremble at the fierce Anger of God against impenitent negligent and careless Sinners For such was the Accusation of the Luke-warm Laodiceans that grew proud and self-conceited thinking themselves better than they were Wherefore because they were neither Hot nor Cold they were loathsom to God and He therefore assured them He would spit them out of His Mouth The Ruins shew it to have been a very great City situate upon six or seven Hills encompassing a large space of Ground twenty Miles distant from Coloss North-East and five Miles South of Hierapolis between which is a Plain watered with the River Lycus about a Mile and half distance from Laodicea It hath three Theaters of white Marble so beautiful and entire as if they were but lately built and a Circus as stately What other Antiquities yet remain there I heard not but my Comrade hath a Medal of this City Med. 67. which I count no small Rarity It is of the Emperour Commodus with a Reverse representing the four Seasons of the Year in four Figures The first bearing a Basket of Flowers the second a Cycle the third a Basket of Fruit with these Letters about ΕΥΤΥΧΕΙΣ ΚΑΙΡΟΙ ΛΑΟΔΙΚΕΩΠÎΕΟΚΟΡΩΠsignifying the Genius's of the Seasons of Laodicea Neocorus It is called now Eske-hissar or Old-Castle and not Laodichia as Signior Ferraro affirmeth nor yet by the Turks Nove-lesche nor hath it the Title of an Arch-Bishops See as he saith Perhaps this mistake of his is grounded on the mistake of those who have taken Laotik a Village near Angury called antiently Ancyra a great way from these Parts to be the antient Laodicea Philadelphia is the Church as well as Smyrna PHILADELPHIA comforted with most gracious Promises from Heaven and therefore owes its present condition which is so much better than the rest to the Support of it which as I was informed and Mr Smith affirmeth next to Smyrna hath the greatest number of Christians above the other Metropolitical-Seats there being above Two hundred Houses of Christians there and four Churches whereof the chief is dedicated to Panagia or the Holy Virgin the other to St George the third to St Theodore and the fourth to St Taxiarchus as St Michael the Arch-Angel is called by the Greeks When all Asia beside were over-run by the Turkish Forces the Philadelphians still maintain'd their Liberty against the raging Conquerours Orchanes and Morat the second and third Sultans of the Turks until the time of Bajazet the next Sultan by whom they were forced to submit yet to a more easie Fate than the rest of that Country For after they had most valiantly defended themselves their Surrender was upon terms more easie than their Neighbours who abandoned to the Mercy of the Barbarous Conquerour were handled accordingly But to these Heavens had promised a more particular Protection assuring them That He knew their Works and Behold I have set a Door open before thee and none can shut it For thou hast a little Strength and hast kept my Word and hast not denied my Name Because thou hast kept the Patience ordained thee by my Word I also will keep thee from the hour of Temptation that shall come upon all the World to try them that dwell upon the Earth Apoc. 3.8.10 Than which as my Comrade saith What could be said more formally to foretell the Coming of the Turks the open Enemies of Christianity who seem to be sent on purpose for the Punishment of our Crimes and to distinguish the Faithful from the False Christians who pretend to be so and are not Of the Antiquities
of this Place I had but a slender Account only I have the Copy of one Inscription being the Monument of a Virgin in these three Couplets of Verses ΞΑÎΤΙΠΠΗΠΑΚΥΛΑ ÎœÎΗΜΗΠΒΙΟΥ ΠΑΡΕΔΩΚΗΠΒΩΜΩ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΑΣ ΣΕΜÎΩ ΤΑΥΤΗΠΑΛΟΧΟΠΠΑΡΘΕÎΟΠΗΣ ΑΠΕΛΥΣΕ ΜΙΤΡΗΠΗΣΔΡΙΟΠΑÎΘΟΣ ΕΣΚΕΠΕΠΗΜΙΤΕΛΕΙ ΠΑΥΣΑΜΕÎΟΠΘΑΛΑΜΩΙ ΤΡΕΙΣ ΓΑΡ ΕΠΕΙΚΟΣΙΟΥΣ ΤΕΛΕΩΣΕ ΒΙΟΠΕÎΕΑΥΤΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΟΥΣ ΔΕ ΘΑÎΕΠΤΟΥΤΟΥ ΛΙΠΟΥΣΑΦΑΟΣ We bought also a Medal at Smyrna of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius the Reverse of which hath a Temple Med. 68. whose Front is sustained by six Pillars and about it are these Letters ΦΙΛΑΔΕΛΦΕΩΠΕΠΙ ΕΥΓΕÎΕΙΟΥ signifying that it was coined at Philadelphia when Eugenius was Governour perhaps that that Temple was then built there also These are not the only Churches and Cities that have partaken of the Event of these Prophecies of St John nor was it only to these Seven Churches that the Prophecies were addressed however they only are particularly marked out by their Names but unto all Christians and Christian Churches in general as is evident by that often repeated Caveat our Saviour useth He that hath an Ear let him hear what the Spirit saith to the Churches Apoc. 2.9 11 17 c. As for the Thirteen Cities of Ionia mentioned by Strabo and where the Christian Religion once happily flourished only Smyrna Samos and Chios remain at this day either in Name or tolerable Being But most of them are easily known where they were by their Ruins and the Description that Strabo giveth of them in his Fourteenth Book The Account which I had of them I am willing to communicate with the Antiquities I possess and have seen of them beginning retrograde to Strabo his order Viz. First 1. PHOCAEA now PALEA-FOIA Phocaea This stood near the Mouth of the River Hermus by the Bounds of Aeolis and Ionia of which last it was an antient and famous City and on the Banks of the Bay of Smyrna where now are the Ruins of it called Palea-Foia by which is now a poor Village called also Foia Nova or New Foia almost opposite to the Promontory Argennum Of Phocaea I saw several Medals one bearing a Tower'd Head and about it these Letters ΦΩΚΕΑ Phocaea and on its Reverse a Boat over which are Two Crescents and Two Stars and about it these Letters ΦΩΚΑΙΕΩΠOf the Phoceans Another Medalion of the Emperour Philip on whose Reverse is a Dog preying upon a Fish called Phocas or the Sea-Calf whence probably this City took its Name and under it ΦΩΚΑΙΕΩΠOf the Phoceans Between it and Smyrna was a Town in old time called Leuca where Publius Crassus the Consul was slain by the Rebel Aristonicus who there lay in ambush with his Army But now it is unknown where that Town was SMYRNA Thence winding to the bottom of the Bay about twenty Miles distant is Smyrna Thence turning yet further about South-West-wards again not far from the Fortress upon the Point of the Streight made by the Sands in this Bay as before is mentioned a Mile or two from the Shore are the Thermae or Hot Springs which we went to see with the Consul where the Water is only covered with a pitiful Roof for the Accommodation of such as come to bathe I am perswaded the Sinus Smyrnaeus of the Antients began where that Streight between the Sands and Fort now is For Strabo saith After the Temple of Apollo and the Hot-Springs is the Sinus Smyrnaeus and Smyrna And perhaps that which is now but a Sand might in times past be Firm Land Clazomenae are the next CLAZOMENAE situate under a Precipice which was undoubtedly some part of that high cragged Mountain now called The Brothers and formerly Mimas There is now only a poor Village called Vourla Erythraea was at Argennum Promontorium ERYTHRAEA called now by the Turks Calabouroum but by the English Cape-Giobbernole There is also a Village called Kelisman and not far off another called Gesne one of which is probably where the Erythraea were and the others perhaps the antient Village Cybelia This was a Noble City famous for the Birth of Cibylla a Prophetess as some think Of this Place I saw two Medals both having a Head wearing a Tower'd Crown written about with these Letters ΕΡΥΘΡΑΙ ERYTHRAEA Med. 73 74 75. The Reverse of one is the Prow of a Ship to betoken their greatness at Sea The other an Instrument I take for Apollo's Harp Tens is now a poor Village called Sigheso South of Cape Caloubarum TEUS by the Sea-side in the same Peninsula called in old time Myonnesus Lebedo was about fifteen Miles South of this but destroyed LEBEDUS Med. 76. My Comrade hath a Medal of the Emperour Carracalla whose Reverse is a Palace armed with these Letters ΛΕΒΕΔΙΩΠshewing that it was stamped here Colophon hath passed the same Fate with the former COLOPHON Med. 77. and was about fifteen Miles South of Lebedus in a Bay which I saw at a distance going to Ephesus near high Mountains on each hand the North-most of which I believe to have been called Coracius Near them the River Halys emptied it self into the Sea wherefore they represented it sometimes in their Money as on the Reverse of a Diadumenianus with these Letters ΚΟΛΦΩÎΙΩΠHence I shall take for my Guide an Account given me of a Journey made by Dr Pickering Mr Salter and several other Merchants there begun June 23. 1673. The first day after nine Hours riding they came to a Village called Chillema South of Smyrna not far from the Foot of the Mountain Aleman and lodged that Night in their Tent by a Fountain but were much infested by Frogs and Flies The next day through a bushy rocky and mountainous way they came to the top of the Aleman which I esteem the Mountain Gallecius Whence they had the Prospect of the Ephesian Plains and after twelve Hours riding the second day they came to Scala Nova I suppose after the Ephesian Plains because they spent so much time going to it It is a Garrison Town situate in the bottom of a Bay most of the Inhabitants out of Town Greeks the rest Turks There was formerly a Factory of French setled there but were removed to Smyrna by order of the Sultaness Mother so that now there is but small Trade I guess this to be the Neapolis Strabo placeth hereabouts Wednesday the third day of their Journey they set out about four in the Morning and about twelve came to a Greek Village called Changlee situate by the Sea-side but almost ruined CHANGLEE olim PANIONIUM having no Defence against Pirats who in the time of the Venetian War so infested this Place that now there remains only some few Houses of very poor People who are ready to run away at the sight of every little Bark they see at Sea They spent the Afternoon there by reason of a very high Mountain they were to pass the next day at the
Eoot of which this Village is situated and rested in a fair and pleasant Garden full of Oranges Limons Cherries and several other sorts of Fruits There are two Churches here one dedicated to the Virgin Mary the other to St Katherin On the Wall of the first they found an Inscription where Amyntor when he was Prytane or Chief Magistrate among them ordered That the worthy Senate of the Ionians should cause to be written on a Stone and set up in Panionium the Result of their Debates touching a Law made and Justice done in the matter of the Priesthood of Jupiter Mouleius c. Lib. III. ΕΠΙ ΠΡΥΤΑÎΕΩΣ ΑΜΥÎΤΟΡΟΣ ΕΔΟ ΞΕΠΙΩÎΩΠΤΗ ΒΟΥΛΗ ΤΩΠΛΕΒΕΔΙ ΩΠΑΞΙΟÎΤΩΠΑÎΑΓΡΑΠΨΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΣΤΗ ΑΗΠΤΕΛΕΣΙΤΟΙΣ ΕΟΥΤΩΠΚΑΙ ΣΤΗΣΑΙ ΕΙΣ ΠΑΠΩÎΙΟΠΠΕΡΙ ΤΗΣ ΔΙΚΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΓΕÎΟΜΕÎΗΣ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΗΣ ΙΕΡΑΤΕΤΗΣ ΤΟΥ ΔΙΟΣ ΤΟΥ ΜΟΥΛΗΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΣ ΗΚΗΕΔΟΥΜΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΑ ΠΕΡ ΛΟΤΟΙ-ΑΞΙΟΥΣ ΕΠΙΧΙΟΥ ΠΡΥΤΑÎΕΩÎΤΟΣ ΛΕΒΕ ΔΙΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΑ Whence I judge the antient Name of this Place was Panionium That which confirms me in this opinion is the Situation Strabo gives to the Panionium on this side of the Mountain Mycale about a quarter of a Mile from the Sea For so is the Situation of Changlee This Panionion was the Place where all these thirteen Cities of Ionia met to consult about their common Affairs The next day about four in the Morning they set out and having gained the top of the Mountain Mycale with some difficulty although it be pleasant by reason of the cool Shades made by several sorts of Trees as Chesnut-Trees and very tall Pines and fresh Springs issuing plentifully out of the sides of it they had very large Prospects about them North and West-wards Ionia and the Ionian Sea towards the South the Plains of Caria to the Mountain Latmus with the curious Windings and Turnings of the River Meander which Mr Salter an ingenious Merchant of Smyrna designed and among other Draughts obliged me with a Copy of this The Descent was very difficult the Mountain being nothing but a Rock of very clear Marble altogether unshadowed by Trees But in two Hours time they came into the Plain through a narrow way having left behind them the Remains of a Castle East-ward At the Foot of this Hill is a Village called Sanson where are some Ruins and a Pillar with a defaced Inscription they could not take This or the Old Castle by Strabo's Description should be Prienia For saith he coming from Miletium beyond the Mouth of the Meander s the Prienian Shore and above Prienia the Mountain Mycale well wooded and furnished with Game Thence after travelling through a large Plain they came to the River Meander called now by the Turks Bojuc-minder or the Great Meander in opposition to that at Ephesus which they call the Little Meander They passed it by a Ferry it being about sixteen Fathoms over and in the middle as deep as the Ferry-Men informed them and the Current is very swift The prospect of the true Meander nere Palatsha Lib III. Fig VIII They were after carried to the Ruins of an old Greek Church as the People say it hath been under which is a very fair arched Place where the People now salt their Fish after they have taken out the Rows whereof they make Botargoes the most they catch being very large Mullets Upon this arched Place is a Foundation of very fair Marble of divers colours But the Superstructures of the Wall seem to be more modern being of several sorts of Stone compiled in a confused manner among which they found one Stone with an Inscription whereon is ΠΟΛΙΣ ΜΙΛΗΣΙΩΠThe City of the Milesians five times repeated which would effectually prove Miletum to be the antient Name of the Place if the Description that Strabo gives of the Situation of Miletum did better agree with our Account of this Place For Strabo puts Mount Latmus a Bay of the same Name and two other Towns between Miletum and the Mouth of the Meander to wit Heraclea and Pyrrha telling Meander from Pyrrha was fifty Stadia that is betwixt six and seven Miles and from thence to Heraclea fifty Stadia and sailing by the Shore a little more to Miletum but in a right Line only thirty Stadia that is about four Miles whereas our Travellers put this Palatsha but at two Hours riding after they had past the Meander But perhaps the Place of the Ferry whereby they past the Meander was nearer to Palatsha than it was to the Mouth of the River of which only Strabo speaks The vast Ruins indeed here and Inscriptions seem worthily to prove That this was the Miletum one of the Twelve Cities of Ionia formerly as famous as Ephesus though now reduced to the same Fate having only some Cottages of Shepherds But the little River Latmus or Lamus or Lycus according to Ptolomy near which this Place is and the Wetness of the Ground mentioned by Strabo seem to be against us and to call it antiently by the Name of Pyrrha And here Strabo thinks he sheweth his Art in Geography very much So that it is too hard a matter for me to determine the question between Strabo and the Inscription This Inscription is a kind of Talisman or Charm of the Antient Hereticks called Basilidiani or Gnosticks who fansied great vertue to be contained in the word Jehovah which they expressed by the seven Greek Vowels ΑΕΗΙΟΥΩ transposing them into great variety of Changes as appears in this Inscription ten times The word ΑΓΙΕ which followeth makes it manifest whereby each Column may be interpreted after this manner Holy Jehovah preserve this Town of the Milesians and all its Inhabitants as also that which is written underneath signifying this O Arch-angels let the City of the Milesians be preserved ΙΕΟ ΥΑΗω ΙΗωΑΥΕϹ ΥΑΗΟiωΕ ΗΟΥΙΑωΕ ΙΗΕΟΥωΑ AEHI EHIO HIOY ΙΟΥω ΟΥω ΟΥω ΥωΑ OAE AEH AEHI ΑΓΙΕ ΑΓΙΕ ΑΓΙΕ ΑΓΙΕ ΑΓΙΕ φΥΛΑϹΟΠφΥΛΑϹΟΠC. C. C. ΤΗΠΠΟΑΠΤΗΠΠΟΑΠ   ΜΙΛΗϹΙωΠΜΙΛΗϹΙωΠ   ΚΑΙ ΠΑÎΤΑϹ ΚΑΙ ΠΑÎΤΑϹ   Lib III. TOYC KATOI TOYC KATOI    KOYNTAC KOYNTAC    ΑΡΧΑΓΤΕΛΟ◠ΦΥΛΑϹϹΕΤΑ ΙΗΠΟΛΙϹ ΜΙΛΗϹΙωΠΚΑΠΙΑÎΤΕΣ Ο◠ΚΑΤ Upon the Wall of that Church-yard is a Lyon of a vast bigness well cut in white Marble whence they judged the Church to have been dedicated to St Mark But that is contrary to the Greek Customs to make any carved Figure in their Churches unless the Place did formerly belong to the Venetians They were shewed another Ruin they call Saint John's Church which they esteemed Modern where they saw many Inscriptions and copied as many as they could most of them being defaced with time and weather some upon single Stones other upon very large Tombs On one end of one of them is carved two Women a hunting with three Dogs the formost holdeth a Hare in his Mouth which very likely was intended for Diana's Hunting But the heat of the Meridian Sun being come to its height
our Travellers gave over the further Search of Antiquities notwithstanding there were many Rarities in that kind well deserving their further Inquiry Either from this River or the Meander by boat one might antiently go to the City Myuns MYUNS about four Miles up the Stream of which now I heard no News But it was antiently One of the Twelve that used the solemn Meetings at Panionium and was given by Xerxes to Themistocles for his Meat as Lampsaca was for his Wine and Magnesia for his Bread Although Strabo here brags to be so exact in his Geography yet he and Ptolomy do not agree concerning the Bounds of Ionia and Caria For Ptolomy makes the Meander to part Ionia and Caria and also placeth Pyrrha Heraclea and Miletum in Caria whereas Strabo makes this part of the Meander to be in Ionia and also placeth Pyrrha Heraclea and Miletum in Ionia as also Myuns about half a Mile beyond which begins Caria at a little Village called Thymbraea But both of them put Mount Latmus between Heraclea and Miletum and so far agree in the Topography or Order of placing them However the question viz. Whether Palatsha we were now speaking of be the antient Miletum or Pyrrha must remain still in doubt For Pliny placeth Miletum at ten Stadia distant from the Mouth of the Meander but yet placeth Mons Latmus after it Lib III. Fig IX Ruines att the end of the Gulfe of Samos a mile from the sea caled by the Turkes Iotan About five in the Afternoon they parted from Palatsha and about two hours after came to a Greek Village where they lay from whence two hours more in the Morning brought them to the bottom of a Bay which they call the Gulph of Samos perhaps formerly Latmicus Sinus going on still by the Sea-side they found the Ruins of a vast Structure called by the Turks Jotan Dr Pickering was of opinion JOTAN That it was the Sepulcher of Mausolus built by Artemisia to the Honour of her Husband at Halicarnassus and one of the Seven Wonders of the World For it is yet most splendid in its vast Ruins built of white Marble and adorned with Pillars of all Orders of which two only were entire of the Ionick Order with an Architrave on them But I believe the Doctor was short a great way in his Conjecture of that Mausolum as will appear further I suppose it to be only the Ruins of some Theater by the Draught they gave me of it But upon better Examination I rather believe it to have been the Temple and Oracle of Didymeus Apollo at Branchida which being burnt by Xerxes as all the rest besides the Ephesium the Milesians again rebuilt it the biggest of all others letting it remain uncovered by reason of its vast Greatness for it was as big as a Town in circumference having a most excellent Grove within and without This was eighteen Stadia from Posidium prom of the Milesians and not far either by Land or Sea to the City meaning Miletum which he next falls a describing by name Then follows Latmicus Sinus and therein Heraclea under the Mountain Latmus Thence from seven in the Morning until five Afternoon they passed over a very bad Mountainous way whence may be learnt if compared with Strabo that that Mountain is the Latmus of the Antients and if so the Bay above-mentioned must as I said be Sinus Latmicus which if true that place of Ruins called now Jotan should be Heraclea called before that time Latmus from the Mountain about it which if so that which my Companion hath judged to be Maletum will be no other than Pyrrha or Strabo hath not acquitted himself so well as he pretended to do So that we shall be yet to seek for Miletum unless the Place where they rested this Morning or some where thereabouts was it For here were Ruins also and some Inscriptions among them Near a Fountain where they lodged was one which they describ'd to be a Stone hollowed by the People to beat Corn in and is carved on one side with a Man on Horseback and a Serpent under the Horse Feet having on the other side an Inscription not so well copied that I can make any thing of it Monsieur Spon thinks the Person for whose Monument it was erected was of Miletum for there is .. ΕΙΛΗΣΙΟΣ which we guess should be ΜΕΙΛΗΣΙΟΣ the Îœ. being either neglected by the Copist or defaced by time But they relate no such great Matters of the Place as that it should be equal with Ephesus and thought one of the two best Cities of Ionia But perhaps our Travellers might not see all the Ruins or it may be the greatest part and best of them are by the various and potent Engines of Time and Fate now no more to be seen Yet although this Place seems to have lost it self and we are so uncertain where to find it it was in antient times a Place of great Renown both for the many Colonies they planted abroad and also for the Birth of many Worthies especially Thales Suidas one of the Seven Wise-Men among the Grecians and very worthily so esteemed For it was he among the Heathen that first asserted the Immortality of the Soul They rested Sunday until six in the Evening Then taking Horse in three Hours time they past over a Mountain and came to a Place in the open Field where was a Fountain or Spring of fresh Water at which they rested till Morning within sight of the Sea Lib III. Fig X. Jasus n Askemkalesi The next day parting hence they past by a little Cape or Promontory of Land and came to the Ruins of a large City ASKEMKALESI situated upon a Hill encompassed round about by the Sea but not so deep but they foorded it to come to it On the top was an old Castle and a little lower a small Theater on the Front of which on the outside there was a Writing in Greek which shewed That it was one Zopater who whil'st he was Master of the Games built it to the Honour of Bacchus and for the People ΖΩΠΑΤΡΟΣ ΕΠΙΚΡΑΤΟΥ ΧΟΡΗ ... Ι ΑΓΩÎΟΘΕΤΗΣΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΣΤΕΦΑÎΗΦΟΡΟΣ ΤΟ ΑΠΑΛΗΜΑ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΠΕΑΥΤΟΥ .... ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΒΗΜΑ ΔΙΟÎΥΣΩΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΩΙ ΔΗΜΩΙ Another Structure they judged to have been a Palace by the many large Inscriptions upon Marble in the Walls of a very fair and large Court with many Basso-relievo's of Figures and Wreaths and several Inscriptions defaced over the Doors They saw besides some ruined Temples and broken Pillars that had been walled with very large Stones and is now called Askemkalesi or the Castle of Askem At a Point about a Stones-cast from the City in the Sea are the Ruins of a small Castle It is now quite dis-inhabited nor hath any Town or Village near it The Description which Strabo giveth of Jassus agreeth so well with this Place that I can no way doubt of its being the same For describing Caria from South
and on the Reverse Fortune holding a Cornucopia in one hand and a Rudder in the other with these Letters ΕΠΙ ΑΥΡ ΠΡΙΜΟΥ ΡΟΥΦΙÎΟΥ ÎΥϹΕΩΠsignifying that it was of this City Nysa coined under the Governour Aurelius Primus Ruphinus Of Nysa Strabo informeth us That it was on the Brow of the Hill Mesogis and divided as it were into two Parts by a Vally with a Torrent running between That it had the Plain of the Meander towards the South of it like Trallis situate in the way from Ephesus to Antioch upon the Meander between Trallis and Antioch and lastly That it was adorn'd with an Amphitheater and Theater But what this Town is now I could learn no News unless perhaps Noslie Mr Smith speaketh of a small Village of about three Hours distance from Trallis be it 4. Of Antiochia I have two which I lighted upon at Venice ANTIOCHIA Med. 86. one of Philip the Father the other of Philippus Junior the Son But whether the Medal belonged to this Antiochia upon the Meander is hard to determine They have both the same Reverse to wit a Head crowned with a Tower having a kind of Coiff behind it and over it a Pegasus if I can discern aright on each side is first Δ Ε. and then S. C. for Senatus-Consultum by order of the Senate and about it ΑÎΤΙΟΧΕΩΠΜΗΤΡΟΚΟΛΩΠOf Antioch But the last word I know not how to interpret I have viewed narrowly to find whether it is not Metropolωn which Suidas interprets the Title of a City which hath sent Colonies or Plantations as the Mother of other Cities But the K. is plain in one of them and in the other seemeth not to be a Î . Strabo mentions a Lake five or six Miles from Sardis called in his time ΚΟΛΟΠbut in Homer's Ogygia where there was a Temple of Diana much celebrated Whether this might not be a Colony of Antioch upon the Meander whence they of Antioch assum'd the Title of ΜΗΤΡΟΚΟΛΟÎS is a conjecture but of no great weight I confess Of this Antiochia I have no other thing to say than what Strabo long since remarked which is That it was built on both sides of that Part of the Meander which is towards Phrygia in a very fruitful Soil 5. Another I bought at Smyrna which I esteem very much Med. 87. because I have seen it in none of the Cabinets or Collections of Medals any where It is one of those sorts that the Italians call Madalioni the French Medalion being larger and of more accurate Work than the ordinary Medals which Medalists divide either into Silver or little middle or great Brass Besides in them is the Head and Shoulders expressed which is not ordinary in others This is of Brass with the Bust of the Emperour Valerianus crowned with a radiant Crown and the Drapery on his Shoulders and the whole Work admirably well executed in a high Relievo and his Name expressed in these Letters ΑΥ ΚΑΙ ΠΟ. ΛΙ. ΟΥΑΛΕΡΙΑÎΟϹ On the Reverse is a Table or Altar sustain'd by two Lyons and Palm-Trees in the middle On the top are placed two Urns with Palm-Branches issuing out of them On the first are Letters illegible on the other may be read ΟΥΑΛΕΡΙΑΠUnder the Table may be read ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙϹΙΕΩΠand about it ΕΠΙ ΑΡΧΟ ΙΟΥΛΙΑÎΟΥ Which last marketh That the Coyn was stamped under the Government of Julianus the next That it was of the City Aphrodisaea and that upon the Urns sheweth That Games were there instituted to the Honour of the Emperour Valerianus I place this Medalion here because Aphrodisaea is not far from those Places before-mentioned beyond the Meander as by Strabo and Ptolomy may appear Pausanias mentioneth a Well of Salt Water here like Sea-Water This is a Medal hath been valued much by the Medalists beyond the Seas I have heard nothing of the present Remains of the Place 6. Med. 88. Another I saw of the Emperour Geta whose Reverse hath the Figure of a Goddess enveloped in a Cloud either for Juno of Samos or Diana of Ephesus But most probably of the first and about it written ΕΠΙ ΕΡΜΟΓΕÎΟΥ Î’. ΥΠΑΙΠΗÎΩΠstamped in the time of Hermogenes twice Governour of Hypaepena Now Hypaepena was situated in the Plain of Caister under the Mountain Tmolus What and where it is now we are yet to seek Another of the same City I saw with a Temple on the Reverse and the same Goddess seen standing in it between the Pillars and the Portico 7. Med. 90. The next is of the Empress Sabina the Reverse a Diana Hunting and about it thus ΤΜΩΛΙΤΩΠOf those of Tmolus which shews that among the other Cities situate about the Mountain Tmolus there was at least a considerable Town called by that Name which is all I can inform you concerning it Of the Mountain I have already spoken 8. Med. 91. Upon another of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius Antoninus is a crowned Figure holding a Spear in a Chariot drawn by two Griffins and about it these Letters ΑΠΟΛΛΩÎΙΔΗϹ ϹΤΡΑΤ ΑÎΕΘ. and under these ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΠΟΛΕΙΤΩÎâ— done by Apollonides the General of the Horse of Aureliopolis And it is like this City was built by this Apollonides by the Order of the Emperour Caracalla who was so called But I find no mention of it among the Geographers and Historians only this Monument remains of it among Mr Faulkner's Collection About another with an Head crowned with a Tower Med. 92 93. I read ΤΗΜÎΟϹ and on the Reverse is Fortune and these Letters ΤΗΜÎΕΙΤΩΠOf those of Temnus On the Reverse of one of the Empress Ottacilla Severa Wife to the Emperour Philippus is a jacent Figure holding a Reed in his right hand Med. 94. and a Pitcher with Water running out by it and about it is ΤΗΜÎΕΙΤΩΠΕΡΜΟϹ Hermus of those of Temnos Strabo placeth this City in Aeolis in the Mountainous Parts of it upon the River Hermus in which it seems they challenged a right as well as Smyrna What remains of this Place now I had no Account only it being near Smyrna we may have hopes to have further News But none good to be expected On another Medal Med. 95. with a Figure of a Man standing by a Horse these Letters are to be read ΚΥΜΑΙΩΠOf this Name there was a Plain on the Hermus in Aeolis and a City called Cumaea between Myrina and Phacaea But whether it were where Foia Nova is may be doubted because it is too near Foia Vecchia which was undoubtedly Phocaea I therefore leave it to be decided by those that shall from Smyrna have the Curiosity to examine it Of Samos I saw and have my self a considerable number which happened to be found there not long before our coming to Sniyrna of which these are the most confiderable Reverses The first I shall describe Med. 99. is the Reverse of the Emperour Philip which hath on it a standing Figure of a Woman with a Crown upon her Head
admirable Description of a Storm we had in each point so dreadfully experimented How could we then forbear taking his Advice and give Him the Praise who so graciously was pleased to deliver us from those Terrours of Death encompassing of us round about And how could we more acceptably express our Gratitude than by that Sacred Hymn he had inspired the best of Poets as well as Kings with part of which I have endeavoured in our Language thus to Paraphrase O that Mankind would praise the Lord and show His Wonders done for Mortals here below And here 't is just for me to bear my part Who though I want fit Words want not a Heart From the safe Port whom gentle Gales invite To loose to Sea and take a Wat'ry Flight These plainly see God's Wonders in the Deep These surely learn who 't is their Souls doth keep When on the smoothest Calm the Heavens frown And Storms from Mountain tops send Thund'ring down They soon print Wrinkles on its polish'd Brow And into Mounts and Vales those Plains do plow The Waves lift up their Voice the Billows rage No Mortal Pow'r their Fury can asswage They foam and roar they toss the Ships so high That many times they seem to touch the 〈◊〉 But soon are plung'd again into the Deep And in the World's Abyss do trembling peep Few there have any Appetite to Meat And those that have can no where sit to eat Like Drunken Men they stagger to and fro On dancing Decks what mortal Man can go Their Wits quite gone their Reason from them fled They look upon themselves already dead Then cry they to the Lord in their distress For God alone such Troubles can redress He soon Commands the Winds into his Treasure And rolls the plough'd-up Floods to Vales of Pleasure He brings them safe to their desired Port He gives them Rest and is their strongest Fort. Why then should Men neglect to praise his Name Who furious Winds and raging Seas doth tame The End of the Third BOOk THE Fourth BOOK CONTAINING A VOYAGE FROM ZANT THROUGH Several Parts of GREECE TO ATHENS SO soon as we had kept our Christmas a Ship-board with our Captain not being permitted to do it a Shore coming from those Parts of Turky suspected of Contagion we hired a good Barque with a Greek that could speak Italian and a little English to serve us and notwithstanding we had once been turned back by contrary Winds the day before yet December 28th we passed over to Castle-Tornese CASTLE-TORNESE being about eighteen or twenty Miles to the nearest Shore of Peloponnesus now called Morea The Castle is upon a Hill half a dozen Miles from the Shore But we went forward and turned the Promontory Chelonitis between it and a Scoglio called Cacolidida with Shallows about it and by ten in the Morning made thirty Miles from Zant to Chiarenza a ruined City formerly belonging to the Venetians There are such vast Masses of Wall turned upside down joyned together with so hard a cement that they are not much broken but so big that it could be nothing but Gun-Powder or an Earthquake that could have removed them from their Foundations in that manner The Situation CHIARENZA olim CYLLENE and those Marks of Antiquity assured us That this was the antient City Cyllene the Country of Mercury from whence he was sirnamed Cylâ—nius But his Eloquence hath so little prevail'd with Saturn and Mars that they have not spared either his City or Country it being left without Habitation or an Inhabitant The Port is now fill'd up with Sand and Earth but there is good Anchorage in the Bay without yet open to the North and North-East-Winds Here lay then three small Vessels they call Tartans much used by the French Merchants They live well at Sea and will make way very close to the Wind. These coming to lade Provisions for Messina we found that Oxen were then sold for five or six Dollers a piece Sheep for about three Shiâ—ings and Corn as good cheap About two Miles further is a Covent oâ— Greek-Monks About six Miles South-East of Castle-Tornese is a Town the Turks call Clemouzzi CLEMOUZZY GASTOUNI About sixteen from thence also is another indifferent large Town called Gastouni which is about five Miles from the Sea and on a River which perhaps was the River Penea Thence continuing along the Coasts of the Morea twenty Miles further we came to Cotichi COTICHI where there is a Fishing Place called Pescharia which is a Lake fed and stored by the Sea where in July they catch abundance of Mullets to make Botargus and Salt-Fish There is such abundance of all sorts of Wild Fowl Ducks Teals Wild-Geese Pelicans c. resort thither as would bring much Profit in any Place but Turky were a Decoy made there Here we lay all Night in our Boat The next day we parted early and keeping still along the same Shore CONOPOLI we came to a Point about six Miles thence called Conopoli On the top of the Rock is a ruined Tower with the Rubbish of a Town about it but what it was formerly called I know not From the Foot of the Rock is a Spring of Hot Salt and Bituminous Water which runneth down into the Sea within a yard or two of its Source About it I observed plenty of Common Alexanders Cyclamen PLANTS or Sowbread Anagyris foetida then in flower which grows to a good big Shrub of a yard and half high whose Twigs are set with a large three-fold Leaf each of which are long and somewhat narrow of a deep green colour and of a strong stinking smell The Flowers also grow out in little bunches like the other Laburnum but larger and of a deeper yellow colour spotted also with black or Hare-colour'd Spots The outward Leaf is the shortest the next pair longer and the inmost longest all divided at the ends The Flower is succeeded by a long Cod like a French Bean filled at like distances with a Seed as big of a blue or purple colour and exceeding hard Staphys agria or Staves-acre not long come up from the Seeds A kind of Bryony not differing from the white above ground only the Leaves were spotted with white Spots Hence we had the Prospect of a large Plain along the Shore beyond us and behind us but a good way within the Land most part of it is covered with Pine-Trees Continuing yet six or seven Miles further along the same Coasts we came to another point called Cape Calogrea Cape CALOGREA where we were shewed a Well or Fountain called Durach-bey because dug by a famous Turkish Pirate of that Name By this are the Mouths of two Rivers near together or the same River emptying it self by two Mouths for our Mariners assured us they were distinct One of them very probably is the River Larissus of the Antients LARISSUS Fluv which distinguished the Provinces of Eleum and Dimaeum Near
called by his own Name Patras After this it came again to be depopulated by occasion of their sending Succour to the Etolians against the French by whom the Etolians being in many Combats defeated the rest that escaped dispersed themselves into several Cities thereabout until the time of Augustus Caesar who being moved either with the Conveniency of the Haven or some other private Reason commanded the People of sundry Towns round about Patras to come and abide there Which that they might more willingly do he adorned the Place with all the Priviledges of a Roman Colony calling it Colonia Augusti Aroa Patrensis as may be confirmed by divers Medals In my small Collection I have two The first is of Augustus with this Reverse A Figure standing in a Roman Habit with a pair of Oxen before him and these Letters above Col. A. A. and under Patrens which are the Abbreviation of Colonia Augusti Aroa Patrensis or Patrensium that is Aroa of the Patrassians the Colony or Plantation of Augustus Another I have of the Emperour Domitian which is the only one I have seen of that Reverse and never yet engraven It hath for Reverse a Pillar upon a large Basis which seemeth to me to be of the Ionick Order with a Statue upon it and round about these Letters Col. A. A. Patrens which are to be interpreted as the former And by it may be learned That Domitian adorned the Town with some Magnificent Pillar on the top of which he placed his own Statue And not long since the French Vice-Consul there found one in his Garden of the Emperour Claudius which had for Reverse the Military Ensigns of the Romans with the same Letters as before only XXII added which signifieth no more than that the Twenty second Legion was at that time there As to the State of this Town in the Roman times Pausanias hath given an ample Account what now remaineth of it is but little in proportion Although for that the destroying Turks undoubtedly ought to bear the blame and not the Christians as may appear from the many ruined Churches in all its antient bounds which reached as far as the Sea Westwards but not so far East And having still enjoyed the Honour of an Arch-Bishoprick whose Pastor used in antient times to have the Thirty-second Place in the Councils or general Assemblies of the Church The present Arch-Bishop is called Daniel whom we went to pay our Respects to He told us That he had a thousand Churches in his Province which extends it self over all the Western Parts of Morea as far as Corone There was another Metropolitan then with him to wit the Metropolitan of Napoli of Romagnia called by the Greeks Anaplia The two other Arch-Bishopricks are Corinth and Misitra situate not above four Miles from the antient Ruins of Lacedaemon as Mr Vernon affirmeth The highest Point of the Hill whereon the City standeth hath a Castle kept by the Turks and commanded then by one Hebby-Bey Within it formerly were the Temples of Diana Li-pathria and of Minerva Panachaida or the Protectress of all Achaia The Monument also of Euripilus Son of Euaemon who was at the sacking of Troy of which see Pausanias What now remains of them in the Castle I can give no Account because we were not permitted to enter into it Pausanias speaketh of many more in the Market-place But now there is only the Cathedral Church to be seen turned into a Mosque We lodged at Sr Clement Harby's House Consul of the Morea and Zant. He was not there at this time but as we returned he was and shewed us many things we had not before seen The first Evening we arrived there we went to see the Church dedicated to St John St George and St Nicholas a little descending the Hill Westwards where we heard the Greek Vespers worse sung than Hopkin's Psalms used to be in some of our Country Churches It is a very antient Church but hath ill-favour'd Arches within though sustained by beautiful Pillars of the Ionique Order On the out-side among many scraps of Marble is the Basso relievo of a Peacock sitting upon a three-leav'd Tree I guess to be Anagyris which is not wanting in those Parts Whence we judged also That the Church was built out of the Ruins of some Temple of Juno which might have been thereabouts At the Door of this Church is a Stone which being struck by another Stone sendeth out a stinking Bituminous Savour This the Greeks make a Miracle telling That the Judge when he condemn'd St Andrew sate upon that Stone which hath ever since had that ill Scent But I have smelt the like smell in other Stones when broken especially a little long Stone found about Oxford amongst the Gravel The report of St Andrew That he staid a great while at Patras and that before he suffered Martyrdom there he converted a King of the Morea meaning perhaps no more than some Roman Governour of that Province They had antiently several Churches here dedicated to him one of which we went next day to see situated near the Sea-side which is indeed a very old ruinous Building There are two great vaulted Rooms standing parallel to each other in it and the Foundations of two more appear on each side which together are Forty six paces and two feet wide One of them which I guess was properly made use of for a Church hath part of a Cuppalo yet standing on the East end with great Niches in it for Statues and many lesser in other Parts Which made me then believe that it had been more antiently either a Roman Temple or Bath for by it I observed a Fountain of fresh Water although it is but a stone's-cast from the Sea And Pausanias confirms me in the same saying That the Temple of Neptune and Ceres were situate in the lower Parts of the Town and that this last had a Fountain without the Wall by which the Events of sick Persons were known by hanging up a Looking-glass in such sort by a Thred that it touched the Water only on the Back-side in which Glass the sick Persons looking saw Figures which shewed what they must trust to Returning thence South-Eastwards towards the Town we past by the Ruins of a round Temple of Brick masoned together with a very hard Cement and the Building very massive over against which Northwards is a demolished Greek Church dedicated to the Holy Apostles which hath been sustained by Marble Pillars of the Ionique Order Not far from hence appear some Parts of the antient Walls of the Town One of those Heaps of Ruins may have been the Temple of Cybele the Mother of the Gods wherein Attes also was honoured But we could not find the Theater nor the Odeum nor many other Temples which Pausanias speaks of Under the Wall of the Town is a Place that seemeth to have been a Circus or Stadium or perhaps a Naumachia for Water Combats For the Consul told me That many in the
standing at the Altar of Diana Triclaria ready to be slain which made him quickly call to mind the words of the Oracle that agreed so well to what he saw here The People also seeing a strange King whom they had neither seen nor heard of before were no less moved at his Presence and at the Coffer which he brought not doubting but that it contain'd some sacred thing as it did So that remembring the Answers Apollo had severally given them there was great Joy on both sides the King that he found himself by this means restored to his right Mind and the City that they were delivered and set free from such a barbarous Custom From this cruel Sacrifice the River at which it was usually done had got the Name of Amilichus which is as much as to say Vnmerciful But when the wicked Rite and Custom thus expired it came to be called Milichus which signifieth Compassionate or Tender-hearted whereas before it was not known to have any Name at all The Stream runs thence South-Westwards and so winds about the Town to the Sea Thence passing over the River and up the Hill near the Town we came to the Jews Burying-place where I observed their Sepulchers to be made in the fashion of little Houses of Stone-building having at each end a Marble-Stone whereon is engraven an Inscription of their Name and Family which looking like the Doors of the little Houses of Death make the Burying-place seem a great Town when it is viewed at a distance from the wrong end of a Microscope From hence leaving the Town on the left hand we passed by the Castle on our right which is not much considerable either for Beauty or Strength having only one round Tower toward the Sea a broad-side towards the Town and ditch'd round about being then commanded by a Turk called Hebbey-Bey as is above-mentioned Here is also a Caddy or Judge to determine Civil Controversies and a Veivode whose Office it is to execute the Determinations of the Caddy and gather the Rights and Duties upon Merchandizes and Provisions He that was then Veivode was called Abdi-Aga who from his Sopha spied my Comrade walking by before his Window and perceiving him to be a Stranger sent a Janizary to him to bring him before him where by a Jew that was his Interpreter he examin'd him what he was and what he did in that Country My Companion answered That he was a Physician and that his passing near those parts was that he went to see a Friend of his that was Consul at Athens The Interpreter then made him understand That he ought to have made the Veivode some Present staying in the Town But to this he made him a Compliment telling him That he was no Merchant that only bad Weather staid him in Town and that he had brought hardly enough to defray his own Expences far from being able to make Presents to a Person of his Dignity and so he was dismissed His Brother also Haly Basha who was Master of the Customs hoped to have had something of us in this kind and for fear we should part without paying his Dues took the Rudder of our Barque and locked it up in the Custom-House The Turks are about a Third Part of the Town with the Jews and Christians the other Two Parts They have six Mosques one of which was formerly the Cathedral Church and hath an Iron Chain gilded with Gold hanging on the top of the Cuppalo Which was the reason that when it was taken from the Venetians as they say the Town was pillaged the Turks believing it to be Massive Gold and that they could not but have great Riches in the City The Jews who make the second Third-part of the Town have four Synagogues with a kind of Polity among themselves and chusing antient Men to decide their own Differences The whole number of Christians Turks and Jews are reputed about four or five thousand Their Trade consists in raw Silks made in the Morea in good quantity Leather is also cheap and so is Honey Wax Wool and Cheese The Currans of Patras are esteemed the best in those Parts but they have no great quantity of them Patras Nathaligo and Messa-longia all three together having enough to lade only one good Ship every year Here we went to visit the Vice-Consul of the French Monsieur Vitelin who shewed us a Marble Head of a Statue found in digging his Garden but so defaced that it could not be known for whom it was made As also a Gold-Ring set with a Stone having a Castle engraven on it and certain Gothick Letters about it We went also to visit the Venetian Consul to have a Pass-port of him because the English Consul was not then there and also because our Boat-men were of Zant under the Venetians For none can pass in and out again the Gulph of Lepanto without leave of one of the Castles at the Mouth which Castles are so near to each other that it is impossible to pass out of Gun-shot of one or other or both of them Besides if they let you pass into it at Lepanto one runs the risque of having the Barque burned and an Aveny set upon you besides To enter the Gulph leave must be had of the Castle of Morea and to come out of that of Romelia for so only they distinguish them But when we had gotten this Instrument we wanted another to wit the Rudder of our Bark which as I said the Emir or Receiver of Customs had taken away that we might not part without his Knowledge We could not for sometime find him and when we did we were forced to buy it of him at the price of half a Crown Lib IIII. Naupactush LEPANTO January the first LEPANTO we parted from Patras and came to Lepanto that Evening though it was past Noon when we took Water For we were presently dismiss'd at the Castle and it is not esteem'd above a dozen Miles distance from Patras to Lepanto being in sight of each other From one Castle to the other is not above a Mile But then the Gulph widens again on each side unto Lepanto Lepanto is now the chief City of this Gulph and of late hath given Name to it It was called formerly Naupactus and by the Greeks now Epactos only by the Franks Lepanto Ptolomy reckons it among those of Locris Ozelorum It is situate upon a very steep Hill with a Descent every way from the top but it is joyned to a Mountain behind it by two other little Hills which since the Invention to a Mountain behind it by two other little Hills which since the Invention of Gun-powder command it But it was so strong in antient times that it gave much disquiet to the Romans being a Refuge for the Rebellious Etolians It is built from the Sea-shore up to the highest Point of the Hill which is crowned with a little Castle to mount to which one must pass no less than four Ranges
made no use of them in our Devotions in England Upon the Door of his little Chapel I found a Fragment of an Inscription of which I could learn no great News only these words ΕΠΙ ΞΕÎΟ ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΠΙ ΞΕÎΩΠPerhaps there was a Town hereabouts called Epixenus but I find it not among either the Antient or Modern Geographers Perhaps it was a Village or kind of Colony built by the forementioned Xenocrates For in that Inscription I find ΚΑΙ ΤΟ ΕΠΟΙΚΙΟΠSuidas interprets 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Place where Shepherds or Farmers live in the Country a Village or Country-house and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 he interprets by 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Colonus one that was put in these Colonies or Villages to live and cultivate them And if so it was of no antienter Date than the Romans by that Inscription After I had discoursed sometime with this good Old Man whom they esteem a Saint I was conducted below his Garden between it and the River to another Hutt where two other Caloyers live and look to a Garden well planted with Beans and Pease and another just by it furnished with four or five hundred Stocks of Bees A Place near as pleasant as the other above being just upon the Banks of the River which I esteem to be that which Pausanias calleth Heraclitus upon supposition that some of the forementioned Ruins are those of Bulis The good Caloyer presently went and took a Stock of Bees and brought me a Plate of delicate white Honey-combs with Bread and Olives and very good Wine To which he set us down in his Hutt and made us a Dinner with far greater satisfaction than the most Princely Banquet in Europe could afford us For the Quiet and Innocency of their Life the natural Beauty of the Place the Rocks Mountains Streams Woods and curious Plants joyn'd with the Harmonious Notes of Nightingales and other Birds in whole Quires celebrating and as it were welcoming that forward Spring to speak the truth so charmed my melancholick Fancy for a time that I had almost made a Resolution never to part with so great a Happiness for whatever the rest of the World could present me with But in conclusion it prov'd too hard a Task for me so soon to wean my self from the World We left this Convent sooner than otherwise we should have done by reason of our Janizaries who began to be too bold with the poor Monks demanding of them whole Sheep Rice Wine and whatever came in their fancy without either Modesty or Discretion And they poor People entertain all that come with such things as they have freely But few that are civil will go away without making them a Requital by some charitable Present We took our Leaves of them about Noon and went part of the same way back that we came for about an hour over the Plain of Amphryssus Then turning Northwards we passed by a Village under the Helicon on the right hand SYRBE called Syrbe So still keeping the Helicon on our right hand we kept turning under it till we came again into the way which brought us North-East to Livadia an hour before night Livadia is an antient City and continues still its old Name For the Greeks pronounce B LIVADIA LIBADIA Beta as we do the V consonant and is not only the Modern but very probably the antient Pronunciation For the Latines when they used the V consonant to write it in Greek they would make use of the letter Beta and sometimes the ov as for Valerianus upon Medals I have both ΒΑΛΕΡΙΑÎΟΣ Balerianos and ΟΥΑΛΕΡΙΑÎΟΣ Oualerianos This is undoubtedly the antient Libadia both by the Situation Authors give it the antient Buildings yet remaining and several Inscriptions we found where the Name is mentioned ΠΟΛΙΣ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΩΠand ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΕΩΠand ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΕΙΟΙΣ being written so many ways The Situation is about a pointed Hill on the top of which is an old Castle on the North-side of the high Cliffs of a moderately high Mountain which I took to be part of the Helicon seeing the white Tops of that over it until I found it separated from it by a Valley at my Return But now I suppose it to be Mons Tilphusium counted Fifty Stadia from Haliartus between that and Alalcomenae and between Alalacomenae and Coronaea The River Hereyna riseth here HERCYNA and cometh with such a plentiful Source out of the Mountain by the Castle that it turneth twenty Mills in the Town not a Bow-shot off its rise and is a large River so soon as it comes together from the several Mills which makes me I do not call it the Fountain but think that some other Rivers from the Helicon do make it rise here by a Subterraneous Passage under the Mountain From Livadia it goeth and meeteth the River I but now mentioned rising below Racovi between Parnassus and Cirphis which cometh this way and joyneth with this River about an hours riding North of Livadia in the way to Turchocorio We alighted at a Kan near the Entrance we came in at but finding one of Zant that invited us to his House we went to lodge with him He is called Signior Alexander and hath here advanced himself to be a Physician of Greece from a Cobler of Zant. His whole Library is a Book of Receipts My Comrade set him up with some Directions he gave him to make Clysters and Julips With all the light we had we went to view the Town with him and one Belisario Phoca another Quack but naturally ingenious They first shewed us the House the Ambassadour of France lodged in about three Years before hard by the Rise of the River under the Castle and is now where the Veivode inhabiteth Signior Belisario seeing us search and copy Inscriptions carried us to the Mosque Omer on a Hill on the West-side of the Town which was formerly a Church dedicated unto St George where he shewed us this Inscription upon the Minoret which is a Dedication of some Publick Work to Juno and to the City of the Lebadians ΗΡΑ ΒΑΣΙΛΙΔΙ ΚΑΙ ΤΗ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΩΠΜΕÎΑÎΔΡΟΣ ΧΡΗΣΙΜΟΥ ΙΕΡΗΤΕΥΣΑΣ ΠΕÎΤΑ ΕΤΗΡΙΔΑ ΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΑÎΕΘΗΚΕΠΙΕΡΗΤΕΥΣΑΣΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΓΥÎΑΙΚΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΠΑΡΗΣΙΑΣ ΤΗΣ ΟÎΑΣΙΜΒΡΩΤΟΥ A Turk that saw us copying it told us He would shew us two or three more such as that and very civilly brought us to another Mosque called Omer at the bottom of the Hill where we found three Inscriptions more with the Name of the Town ΧΑΡΟΠΙÎΩ ΑΡΧΟÎΤΟΣ ΒΟΙΩΤΟΙΣ ΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΕΙΟΙΣ ΔΕΚΑ ΟΤΤΙΟΣΙ ΛΑΤΙΓΕΤΙΕΣ ΛΠΕΓΡΑΨΑÎΤΟ ΔΙΟÎΥΣΟΔΩΡΟΣ ÎΙΔΡΙΑΟ ΔΕΞΙΠΠΟΣ ΑΓΛΑΩÎΟΣ ΦΙΛΟ ΞΕÎΟΣ ΧΕΙΡΙΑΟΦΙΛΩΠΔΑΜΟΚΛΙΔΑΟ ΜΗÎΑΣΙΑΔΕΙΑΡΗΙΚΩ ΕΥΛΑÎΟΣ ΤΙΜΑΣΘΙΩ ΑΛΕΞΟÎΑ ΠΟΛΛΙΔΑΡΩ ΙΕΡΕΙΣ ÎΙΚΟÎΟΣ ΑΜΙÎΤΑΣ ΣΑΟ ΕΙΚΩΠΡΟΞΕÎΟΣ ΣΑΩÎΟΣ ΕΥΤΠΩΠΞΕÎΩÎΟΣ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΤΟΣ ΛΑ ΜΙΑΣΕ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΤΡΕΨΙΠΠΙΔΑΟ ΑΡΙΣΤΟΓΙΤΩΠΜÎΑΣΙΛΛΟΣ ΚΑΙ ÎœÎΗΙΩÎΟΣ ΚΑΡΑΙΧΟΣ ÎœÎΑΣΙΜΕΙΔΩ ΒΡΑÎΙΔΑΣ ÎœÎΑΣΙΜΑΧΑ ΦΙΛΩΠΑΣΩΠΙΧΩ ΕΥΦΙΛΕΙΤΟΣ ΑÎΤΑÎΑΡΟΥ ΠΑΣΙΩΠΑΡΙΣΤΩÎΟΣ ΚΑΛΛΙΑΣ ΑΡΙΣΤΩÎΟΣ ΟΛΥΜΠΙΟΣ ΠΑΜΠΙΡΑΟ ÎœÎΑΣΙΑΣ ΠΛΕΙΩÎΟΣ ΑΡΙΣΤΩΠΟΦΕΛΕΙΜΩ ΞΕÎΟΚΛΕΙΣ ΣΑΥΜΕΙΛΩ ΔΙΟΠΙΘΕΣ ΟΦΙΛΕΙΜΩΠ....................... ΚΛΙΟÎΑΞ .... ΘΕΟΔΟΤΟΣ ΙΠΠΑΡΧΟΣ .... ΙΣΙΩ
the time that is since elapsed being added viz. a Thousand six hundred seventy eight Years it will be about Three thousand two hundred and fifty Years ago that Athens was built not to be more exact than I can justify For even the Chronologers themselves differ in their Accounts some Years The Marmora Oxoniensia compute Three thousand two hundred and sixty Years Helvicus saith Three thousand two hundred forty six Years Cecrops divided his Kingdom into twelve principal Cities and was the Author of many excellent Laws and Constitutions especially touching Marriage Wherefore they represented him like Janus with two Faces but one Head signifying that the Union between Man and Wife was such that they made but One Being with different Aspects Each of these twelve Cities had Courts of Judicature and Magistrates of their own and were so little subject to their Princes the Successors and Posterity of Cecrops that they seldom or never consulted them save only in cases of some imminent and publick Danger and did so absolutely order their own Concerns that sometimes they waged War against each other without their Kings But still Cecropia was the chief Seat of their Empire and daily augmented in Riches Greatness and Strength until Ericthonius the fourth King of Attica who being admonished by the Oracle That Neptune and Minerva did strive who should have the Honour of giving a new Name to his City put it to the general Vote of his People wherein both Sexes Men and Women having their Voices the Goddess Minerva carried it and had the Victory by one Vote So they named the City after her own Name Athena For so is Minerva called by the Greeks In memory hereof the Attick Games also called Panathenaea came to be publickly celebrated And from that time the City was called Athenae or Athens This is to be seen in abundance of the most antient Coyns and Monuments of this Place as well as History Upon the one side of their Coyns is the Head of Minerva stamped with her Helmet on within a Wreath of Olive-branches and on the other side an Owl her beloved Bird in those times reckoned the Emblem of Wisdom with these Letters about it viz. ΑΘΕ or ΑΘΒÎΑΙ for Athenai or ΑΘΕÎΑΙΩΠOf the Athenians Thus Athens and the Country of Attica continued united until Pandion the Second of that Name and the Eighth Athenian King who dying by his Last Will and Testament divided his Kingdom into four Parts and left it amongst his four Sons Aegens Lycus Pallas and Nisus To his eldest Son Aegeus he left the Plain and City of Athens together with the Plaint of Eleusis and Thriasius bounded from Megaris by the Mountains Cerato from the Eleutherians by the Mountains Oenoa and Paecilus and from the Athenian Plain by the Mountain Coridales which also hath Mount Parnes North the Mountains Brilessus and Pentelicus North-East not Anchesmus as Monsieur De la Gulitier calls it For the Place is yet called Pentely by the Greeks and hath the Quarries of white Marble Pausanias speaks of yet to be seen and in all Points agrees with the Description of the Antients From Pentelicus it is bounded with Hymettus from East to South within four or five Miles of the City and part of the Saronick Gulph from South to West beginning at Zoster Promontory and ending at the Promontory Amphialia running out from Mount Coridales This Plain was wont to be called Pediaeon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 every way surrounding the City To Lycas his second Son he gave all that Region which lieth against the Isle Euboea now by us called Negropont and containeth all between the Mountain Parnes and Brauron that is to say from the Mountain Pentelicus the Plain of Marathon and the Mountain Brilessus Lycabettus Parnes unto Oropus and was called formerly Diacria Unto Pallas his third Son he gave the Southern Region called Paralia in times past but now Mesoia and containeth that long Slip of Land with the Sea on each side of it from the Mount Hymettus to the Promontory Sunium To Nisus his youngest Son he bequeath's the Isthmus on both sides the Rock Sceironides which contain'd that part of the Isthmus towards Corinth the Mountain Gerania and the Plain of Megara to the Mountain Cerata But Aegeus casting himself down from the Acropolis by his untimely Death made way to his Son Theseus his more early Succession to the Crown than otherwise by nature could have been expected Theseus proved afterwards a Man of so great Wisdom Strength and Courage that he was accounted another Hercules whom he took pleasure to imitate He likewise reduced all those Provinces which his Father had separated and united them again to his Kingdom of Attica making Athens his Capital City and the Seat of the Law and ordaining all the rest of his People to appeal thither if need were for Justice So having depriv'd all the other Cities of their particular independent Senates and Magistrates he reduc'd them all to one great Councel or Senate at Athens called the Prytaneum For which and many other publick Benefits and Heroick Actions he was after his Death thought worthy to be honour'd with Divine Worship and to have place amongst their Tutelar Gods For which reason also upon the Gate of Adrian's Palace on that side towards the City there is an Inscription signifying thus much This is Athens in times past the City of Theseus and on that side which the Emperour Adrian had built is engraven This is the City of Adrian and not of Theseus Athens continued a Monarchy about Five hundred and fifty Years until the Death of Codrus the seventeenth and last King a Prince less fortunate than brave For his Country being attacked by the Dorians he as the Heathens in those days were wont to do consulted with the Oracle which told him Those should be Conquerours whose King was slain He thereupon preferring his Countries safety before his own Life having put himself into a disguise rushed in among the thickest of his Enemies and bravely died to save his People which so soon as it was known his Enemies turn'd their backs and retreated without any notable Action Only in their way home they took Megara and demolished the Pillar that Theseus had set in the Isthmus whereon was written on that side towards Attica This is Ionia and not Peloponnesus and on the other side This is Peloponnesus and not Ionia From which time the Gerata Mountains began to be the Bounds of Attica within the Isthmus The Athenians in reverence to Codrus would never more have any Governour by the Name or Title of King but were governed by Magrstrates they called Archontes for Six hundred Years after who were at first for their whole Lives then changed every ten Years and afterwards every Year Under whom they most valiantly defended their Liberty and Borders for the space of Five hundred and thirty four * Marmora Oxon p. 244 247. Years until the Tyrant Pisistratus seized on the
shadow and name of Liberty which as yet remaineth to them But so it was notwithstanding these and some other like Indulgences which they had from several Emperours they could never perfectly recover themselves from the sad Effects of Sylla's Cruelty until the time of Hadrian who being advanc'd to the Imperial Dignity with great Munificence restor'd this City to its former Beauty The reason whereof was That in his younger Years he had been chosen Archon that is the chief Magistrate there and had taken such a particular Affection to the Place that being now made Emperour and visiting the Provinces he staid a considerable time at Athens and gave them many Priviledges as their publick Games which in honour of him were call'd Adrianalia and a thousand Wild Beasts every year to hunt in the Stadium building himself a Palace there with a publick Library and Schools for teaching the Liberal Arts and Sciences consecrating a Temple to Jupiter and Juno Panellenians and also building another of vast Magnificence to Jupiter Olympius In fine This Emperour not only rebuilt or repaired those publick Buildings that Time and the Wars had either defac'd or ruin'd but added also at his own charge one whole Region of Buildings to the City so large and beautiful that it deserved to be call'd afterwards New Athens as it is on his Aqueduct Antoninus Pius finished this famous Aqueduct of white Marble which this Emperour Hadrian had begun Marcus Aurelius augmented the number of publick Professors in the Schools and would be solemnly initiated among them Only the Emperour Septimius Severus thought not fit to continue the Kindness of his Predecessors to them but bare them a Grudge even to his dying day for no greater Reason as 't is thought than some little Affront he received from them in his Youth when he was there either out of Curiosity to see the Place or at his Study But whatever it was it cost them a great part of their Priviledges The Emperour Valerian who reigned long after Severus permitted them to rebuild their Walls which yet could not hinder the Scythians from making themselves once Masters of the City But it was but for a short time For the brave Cleodemus rallying the Athenians scatter'd Forces raising a new Army and getting together some Ships set upon and soon put to flight the Army of those Barbarians Amongst the Christian Emperours Constantine the First was their great Friend and Benefactour honouring their Governours with the Title of Arch-Duke From the Bounty of Constantine the Second they obtain'd several Isles of the Archipelago Under the Reign of Arcadius they passed the common Fate of the rest of Greece as likewise of all Italy being sack'd and pillag'd by Alarick King of the Goths as Synesius saith who lived in the same Age and compares Athens at that time to an Animal whose Entrails are consum'd with Rottenness Yet Zozimus says That Alarick spared Athens as fansying that he saw Achilles that famous Hero and Captain General of the Grecians fighting for them upon the Walls Justinian was a good Friend to them But in the following Ages until the Thirteenth Century there is deep silence of them either for want of Historians who in those Times were few and obscure or that it pleased Divine Providence to give them such a long term of Privacy and Peace as that little notice was taken of their Affairs in relation to the rest of the World In the Thirteenth Century I know not upon what Offence Theodorus Lascaris the then Greek Emperour besieged it but was repulsed After him one stiled The Marquess Bonifacius took it But how long he held it or who took it from him appears not It was afterwards governed by one Delves of the House of Arragon But he dying the Turks under the Command and Conduct of Bajazet their Emperour took it with Boeotia and were within a while dispossessed of it again by that valiant Christian Souldier Reinerius Acciaiolo a Florentine who reduced it under the State of Venice But they not having had it long it was upon some Differences happening retaken from them by Anthony a natural Son of Reinerius The Family of the Acciaioli were Masters of Attica and Boeotia a considerable space of time For Nerius a Cousin of Anthony succeeded him and after Nerius another Anthony Brother to Nerius and after him Francus From whom it fell under the Dominion of the Turks in the time of Mahomet the Second in the Year 1455. for want of Succour which the Greeks in vain desired of the Latines who would do nothing for them upon other terms than their Conformity in Religion and renouncing those Points wherein they differ'd from them little considering that the Turks made Greece but a step to bring them so much nearer to Italy and that they were sworn Enemies to Christianity in general and not to the Greeks only They have been ever since under the Turkish Tyranny and are like so to continue until God shall restore them to Liberty which is far beyond the reach of Human Policy to conceive how or by what means it should be so long as Christendom is so disunited in it self and that Divine Providence for our Sins permitteth the Turkish Arms and Superstition so mightily to prevail They poor People bear their present Affliction with as much Quietness and Christian Patience as they did in times past shew Courage and Magnanimity in maintaining their Liberty And this brings me to consider what the present Condition of Athens is having with all the speed I could run over the Accounts which the Antients have given more at large of her various Fortune Although the antient Greatness of Athens is vanished The Name and remains only a Story in Pausanias and some other antient Writers Time and Fate having devoured the Substance yet she still retains her antient Name with little or no Alteration For they still call the City 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Athene which they pronounce Athini Therefore I wonder our Modern Geographers have been no better inform'd concerning so eminent a Place calling it most corruptly in their Maps sometimes Saithenes otherwhile Setines and Satina c. deceived as I have before observed by the ignorant Seamen who hearing the Greeks say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 they pronounce Stin Athini have form'd those barbarous Names out of their own Brains Athini or Athens is situated in almost the middle of a large Plain Situation which so much as it wants in Fruitfulness is recompensed with Health and Beauty It hath the Mountain Parnes North called now Chasha and Nozea Pentelcus or Pendely North-East about six Miles distant Hymettus or Telo-bouni from East to South about five Miles from it Port Phalera West South-West four Miles and Porto-Leone or Pyraeas West by South five Miles the Hills Coridalia now Daphni Bouni from West to almost North at six or seven Miles distance Nearer to the Town it hath a little pointed Rock called from a Chapel
Easter For after the Gospel and Anthem called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Christ is Risen they salute one another round the Church beginning with the Pappa and so in order the Men by themselves and the Women by themselves This pious Solemnity when I was there had like to have been a little disturb'd by a profane Italian Merchant of Tine who being then as Athens upon occasion of bringing some Merchandizes especially a sort of Powder wherewith the Women used to die their Hands and Nails and seeing the Men begin to salute one another told our Consul aloud He hoped when the Men had done they should kiss the Women round also But receiving from the Consul an Answer suitable to his Folly it gave a Check to his profane Drollery At Easter what ever Differences are or have been depending betwixt Man and Man the Year before they must now reconcile themselves or be accounted by the rest of the Church as bad as Heathens This Ceremony done on Easter-day in each Parish-Church is the next Day celebrated in the Cathedral the Pappa sending Wax-Candles to the Principal Men of his Parish and the Arch-Bishop to the most considerable of the City or those they will shew any Respect unto who thereupon meet him at the Church with the Candles lighted From Easter till Whitsuntide not only in the Church but where-ever they meet any they know to be Christians especially if they be of their Acquaintance they salute each other the one saying 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Christ is Risen and the other answering 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The True God When a Virgin is to be married she is brought to the Church Marriage as richly attired as the Fortune of her Relations will bear but her Face is so bedaubed with gross Paint that it is not easie to determine whether she be Flesh and Blood or a Statue made of Plaister She returns home from the Church to the House of her Husband with a great Crown of gilded Metal on her Head accompanied by all the Guests and her near Relations with Pipes and Hand Drums and the best Musick they can make whil'st she in the mean time is conducted so slow a pace that it is scarcely perceivable that she moveth And so soon as she is entred into the House of her Spouse they throw Sugar-Plumbs out at the Windows upon the People who are crowded and throng'd at the Door As to the eminent Monuments of Antiquity yet remaining at Athens Antiquities I dare prefer them before any Place in the World Rome only excepted Therefore I will in the next place consider them giving you the best and truest Account my Observations will enable me beginning our Survey first with the Acropolis or Castle being situated in the midst of all the rest and the most antient and eminent Part of Athens The Acropolis or Castle is built upon a long Rock with Precipices every way from it except on the North-West end where you mount by a steep Ascent to the Entrance and which is better fortified than the rest by high and thick Walls The whole Rock which is Oval is about Twelve hundred ordinary Paces in circumference and also surrounded with Walls of very antient Work especially the Foundations of it making an Area twice as long as broad About Two hundred Paces lower yet not quite to the bottom of the Hill are distinctly to be seen the Foundations of other Walls encompassing the first almost quite round which I believe to be those built by Theseus who first enlarged the City One Gate of which standeth on the South-side and two others consisting of vast Stones on the North and North-East sides although the Walls themselves are almost even with the Ground And it may be demonstrated both by the Monuments of Antiquity yet remaining and out of History that Athens had yet a far greater Wall than either of these including this second Wall and encompassing the whole City spread out far and wide above it to which two other long Walls one reaching to Pyraea and the other Phalarea were joined as hath been said It was with great difficulty we obtain'd the Favour of seeing the Castle of the Haga who being newly come thither and scarce well settled in his Place knew not whether he might safely gratify us But an old Souldier of the Castle his Friend and Consident for three Oka's of Coffee two to the Governour and one to himself perswaded him at last to give way assuring him it was never refused to such Strangers as it appear'd that we were The Haga hath for his Garrison about an hundred Turks of the Country who reside there with their Families and are always on their Guard for fear of Pirats who often land there and do a great deal of Mischief Wherefore all Night a part of them by turns go the Rounds of the Walls making a great hallowing and noise to signifie their Watchfulness and that if Pirats or other Enemies come they are ready to receive them These Soldiers are called Neferides or Isarlides in Turkish and Castriani in Greek not Janizaries I esteem this Castle of no great Strength for these Times and that by reason of the Hill Musaeum which lieth South-West of it of equal height with it and being within Cannon-shot We went up to the Castle from the Town mounting by degrees and winding about it till we came at the Entrance which is at the North-West end of the Rock Within the first Gate I observ'd in the Walls two Figures in Basso-relievo that joyned hands which we guessed to be a Man and his Wife giving to each other their last Farewel as is sometimes seen in antient Monuments with this word in Latine Vale and in Greek XAIPE or Adieu Thence mounting a little further through a narrow Court with a Covert on the side of it for the Guards we came to the second Gate over which is a Transeant of Marble with an Inscription on it of one Flavius Marcellinus that rebuilt the Gates of the Town at his own Charges Perhaps meaning only the Gates of the Acropolis for that as Thucydides observes was called the City also after the rest was built ΦΛ. ΣΕΠΤΙΜΙΟΣ ΜΑΡΚ ... ΗÎΟΣ ΦΛΑΜ ΚΑΙ ΑΠΟ ΑΓΩÎΟΘΕΤΩΠΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΤΟΥΣ ΠΥΛΩÎΑΣ ΤΗ ΠΟΛΕΙ When we had passed the Second Gate we observed some antient Foundations which we guessed might be of the Propylaea or Outward Gate which was so glorious a Structure that it 's said to have cost a Million of Drachma's to build it Thence through another small Court the way brought us to the Third Gate over which was a Basso-relievo of an Eagle the Ensign of the Roman Sovereignty the Goodness of whose Work shews it to be antient After we had passed this Gate we were quite within the Acropolis where the first thing we observed was a little Temple on our right hand which we knew to be that dedicated to Victory without Wings Suidas in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
which Pliny in the Thirtieth Book of his Natural History calleth Phengites and saith It was found in Cappadocia in Nero's time who built a Temple of it to Fortune which was Light when the Doors were shut By reason of its Natural Transparency an obscure Light passeth through it and several Holes being made deep in it it makes the Light look of a reddish or yellowish colour But as to its shining in the Night that 's a Wonder was never heard of until now and for his comparing it to the Brightness of a Carbuncle it may pass for one of his Hyperbolies our Eyes being much too dim to discover it This same Author hath made many other Observations whereof we could find but very little or no probability as the Inscription on this Temple To the unknown God the Turks Pilgrimages to it with several others not worth mentioning and hardly to be excus'd from the Imputation of manifest Untruths On both sides and towards the Door is a kind of Gallery made with two Ranks of Pillars Twenty two below and Twenty three above The odd Pillar is over the Arch of the Entrance which was left for the Passage It being now turn'd into a Mosque the Niche of the Turks Devotion is made in the Corner on this side of the Altar on the right hand by which is their Place of Prayer and on the other side a Pulpit to read their Law in as is usual in all Mosques The Turks according to their measure of Wit have washed over the beautiful white Marble within with Lime At one side of the Quire there are four Presses made in the Wall and shut up with Doors of Marble They say None dares open them and that one undertaking to do it immediately died the first he opened and that the Plague soon after followed in the Town The Marquess of Nantell would have it attempted the second time but the scrupulous Turks would not permit him They think there is some Treasure there perhaps there may be some Church-Vestments Books or Plate belonging to the Altar which now in the poor Greek Church is seldom much above a Chalice and a small Silver Plate They shewed us the place where two Orange-trees of Marble had stood which being taken thence to be carried to Constantinople the Vessel miscarried with them The Roof over the Altar and Quire added to the Temple by the Greeks hath the Picture of the Holy Virgin on it of Mosaick Work left yet by the Turks because as they say a certain Turk having shot a Musquet at it his hand presently withered This Temple was covered outwardly with great Planks of Stone of which some are fallen down and are to be seen in the Mosque They have built a Minoret or tall slender Steeple out of which they make a Noise to call People together at their set times of Prayer day and night On the top of which I mounted and had a most pleasing Prospect of the Cittadel City Plain and Gulph of Egina with the Coasts and Harbours round about But i durst not stay long to enjoy the sight for fear of being seen my self and taken for one that had other designs than of meer Curiosity After some small while therefore descending we left the Temple of Minerva having first made a Present of some few Timins to the Turk who had been so civil to permit us such a free and fair Examination of all the Mysteries and Rarities of it Going therefore some way further TEMPLE OF ERICTHEUS amongst the Buildings and Ruins on the North-side of the Temple of Minerva we came to the Temple of Erictheus It is known to be that by two Marks out of Pausanias First Because he saith It is a Double Building one bigger than the other as this yet remains The lesser one by which the Entrance is to the other is Twenty nine foot long and Twenty one foot three inches broad The bigger is Sixty three foot and a half long and Thirty six foot broad It s Roof is sustained by Ionick Pillars chanelled but the Chapters are something different from any I have seen of that Order and seem to be a kind of mixture between it and the Dorick Order The other Mark is that as Pausanias saith There is a Well of Salt-Water in it which he makes no wonder of because there are many such in Inland Places a great way from the Sea as at Aphrodicaea in Caria c. All that he thinks worth writing of it was That it made a noise like the Waves of the Sea when the South-Wind bloweth We could not have permission to go into the Temple to see it because the Turk that lives in it hath made it his Seraglio for his Women and was then abroad But we were assured That the Well is now almost dry On the South-side of the Temple of Minerva we saw some antient Ruins where are to be seen some Statues of Women in the Walls which my Comrade thinks may be the Graces which Socrates hath made there Because Authors expresly say That although the Graces used ordinarily to be represented naked yet Socrates made his to appear cloathed as these here are 'T is like also here was the Temple of Minerva Poliades that is Protectrice of the City and the Temple of the Nymph Pandrosa but no Remains of them are now to be seen As soon as we were come out of the Castle THEATER of BACCHUS we turned on our left hand and came to the Theater of Bacchus just as Pausanias describes it under the Southern-side of the Castle upon the rise of whose Rock were the Seats of the Spectators which comprehend some Degrees above a Semicircle whose Diameter as Consul Giraud measured it by the French Foot is Two hundred forty three foot and as Mr Francis Vernon in his Letter to the Royal Society by the English Foot is Two hundred sixty three I was prevented from taking all its Dimensions exactly because I heard the Turks from the Castle were very angry with the Consul for doing it so that I only paced it and found the whole Body of the Scene Ninety one Paces of which the Seats take up Twenty five on each side of the Scene and the Scene it self Forty five The Scene is oblong jetting out six Paces more forward in the Front than the Seats of the Spectators Lib. V. The Arca of the Theator of Bacchus The antient Seats are ruined but some distinct Distances appear shewing where they have been The Semicircular Area below the Seats and the Scene are filled a good height with their own Ruins and that which appears best preserved against the Injuries of time is the Front looking towards the Sea where three Ranges of Arches remain one above another The uppermost were no doubt for Windows and to let in the Air but the lowermost could not reasonably be thought so because they were probably even with the Ground being now part covered under Ground without and perfectly buried
from Syria which may be concluded as well from his Name Antiochus common to all the Kings of Syria and out of respect to them generally assumed by others of that Nation as also by the Statue of Antiochus at his right hand as one of his Illustrious Ancestors whom the Athenians honoured and owned for their great Benefactor as appears by their naming one of their Tribes after his Name ΑÎΤΙΟΧΙΔΟΣ As to his being named of Besa he could not have the Honour of being a Citizen of Athens without being inrolled in some of their 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Towns belonging to their Tribes So that his being qualified of Besa in the Inscription hinders not but he might be a Native of Syria In a Relieve below the cornish of this is a Triumphal Chariot carrying the Consul in it with Figures before and after That his Name is not among the Roman Consuls upon the Consular Tables my Comrade thinks to be because he was only Consul Suffectus or Designatus and died before the other Consuls year was quite out Odeum Lâ—L V. From the top of the Musaeum there runs a ridge of Rocks descending Westwards AREOPAGUS Upon the Brow of which regarding the North are the Foundations of a Building supposed to be the Famous Areopagus of Athens For Pausanias although he is short in the Description puts it on this side of the Town Without doubt it is either that Building or the Theatre called The Odeum For Pausanias begins his Description as coming from Pyraea and first within the Gates mentions the place Ceraunicus then after the Regio Portico and Tholis he comes to the Odeum the Fountain Henneacrene Temples of Ceres and Fame Afterwards he begins again above the Ceramicus and the Regio Portico passing along from thence to the Temple of Vulcan and then to the Portico called Pocile thence to the Gymnasium of Ptolomy and by it to the Temple of Theseus which also is in this quarter of the Town over a little Hill North of this therefore whatever it was in old time it now remains thus It is situate upon the brow of that Rock that hath the Turkish Burying place North and North-East the Theatre of Bacchus and the Castle more East with a little Valley between The Foundations are of vast Stones cut in a point like a Diamond and built in a semicircular Form whose Diameter may be about an hundred and forty ordinary paces but the two Radii meet in an obtuse Angle on the back part of it which is entirely hewn out of the Rock In the centre of those Radii is cut a square place higher than the rest of the Area behind which are steps to go to the top of it being about a mans height high On each hand of that are Seats to sit on near the length of the Radii This is taken to be the Tribunal of the so much celebrated Areopagus and the Benches on each hand the Seats of the Senators But if perchance this should have been the Odeum or Musick Theatre as De la Gulitier seems to make it in his Design though he calls it the Theatre of Bacchus which is more evidently false than surely this Tribunal and Theatre was built for the Poet Baies to sing his Verses on and might be called instead of the Tribunal of the Areopagus the Thymelaea or Proscenium c. and instead of the Ranks of Senators who sat to give mature Judgments in cases of great difficulty those Stone-benches were made only to serve a Chorus of Fidlers so ridiculously hath time and â—ill fortune masked and deformed the Grandeur of ancient Times and Places Descending hence Northward you pass over a little Valley and the Turkish Burying-place then mounting again and leaving the Theatre of Bacchus at the West end of the Castle on the right hand you get to the top of a little Steep though Hill or rather a ridge of little Hills descending from the Rock of the Castle Being on the top I remembred one thing which my Companion I find takes not any notice of It is a Fountain accommodated according to the Turkish mode with one or two Cocks of water I have considered the situation of the place and do believe it to be a Spring For I remember when I went first up to the Castle I would have tasted of it but the Consul told me the water was not very good to drink but was used by the Turks for other ordinary occasions in the Castle I am sure there are no Aqueducts to bring water so high the Turks seldom or never using so much as Leaden Pipes or if they did they would not bestow so much cost to procure themselves bad water when they might have good so much cheaper from Mount Hymettus My opinion is That this is that only Spring in the Town that Pausanias speaks of near the Odeum saying There are many Wells in the Town but only one Spring which was called Henneacrene because the water issued out by nine several Spouts and was thus adorned by the Tyrant Pisistratus This in another place he mentions only by the name of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Spring coming down from the Acropolis-wards to the Temple of Apollo and Pan near the Propylaea or outward Gate of the Castle He mentions it a third time to this purpose Going to the Castle saith he by the Theatre of Bacchus is the Monument of Calus c. But the Temple of Aesculapius is worthy to be seen for the many Statues and Pictures of him and his Children in which is a Fountain near which they say Halirrhothius the Son of Neptune lay with Alcippa the Daughter of Mars and was therefore slain by him which Murder gave occasion for the first Judgment to be given on Capital crimes All these places evidently mark out the Fountain we speak of Again after he had spoken of the Temple of Pan and Apollo by way of connexion he adds 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which his Translator turns not well Quae verò Vrbis regia Areopagus dicitur c. For so he seems to break the thread of Pausanias his Description Sylburgius therefore corrected him well translating it thus Secundum hoc est ea Vrbis pars quae Areopagus dicitur About by or near which place is that part of the City called The Areopagus making this good conjecture perhaps saith he from the nearness of it to the Hill of Mars For from this Fountain as I said runs the ridge of a Hill from the Castle North-Westwards and might well enough be called Mars his Hill on which that Region of the City was built that bears Mars his Name being called Areiospagus or the Village of Mars Pausanias further adds That in this place there were two Senates or Councils The one was the Senate of the Five hundred to whom belonged the Judgment of all common and ordinary matters The other was the Senate of the Areopagites only where they judged of Capital crimes
have given his Account let him be stopped or if he sail'd away let his Merchandize be forfeited But if he shall avoyd it by hoisting Sails let them write to his Country or to me under the Testimony of the Commons But of these Proceedings even to fifty Measures the Senate alone shall judge but if above that the Senate shall judge together with the Commons If any of the Ship shall alledge it necessary the Praetor shall convocate the Senate the next day But if the matter shall exceed fifty Amphora let it be brought to the Congregation and half given to the Discoverer But if any one shall yet appeal to me or my Proconsul let the Commons chuse Syndicts that all things which are done against evil doers may be executed without Reproof ....... Some Lines more yet remain which are less preserved Some from this Edict of Hadrian have thought this Place to be the Prytaneum where the Laws of Solon were kept But they had not consulted the Inscription on the Architrave I before mentioned which shews it was built in the time of Herodes Atticus and his Son Eucles The Prytaneum doubtless was not far from hence but up higher towards the Castle And it may possibly be that this Stone was once deposited there For though it be great yet is not too big to have been brought thither But where really the Prytaneum was is not yet discovered I am apt to believe it was between the second Wall and the North-side of the Castle For Pausanias still speaks of descending from it to the way called Tripoda from its being adorn'd with Trivets dedicated to Apollo and also of going from thence to the Temple of Serapis towards the lower Parts of the City And Theseus who both enlarged the City by the second Wall and instituted the Senate of the Prytanes without doubt appointed the Place of their Assembly within the Walls of his City But now I am got into Pausanias his Road I were best follow him so far as I can From the Temple of Serapis he passeth to the Temple of Jupiter Olympian built by the Emperour Hadrianus JUPITER OLYMPIUS Of this I have spoken a little already when I described Hadrian's Pillars But I determined not where it was From the Temple of Augustus therefore crossing the City Northwards until you come into the largest Street of the Town which from the Gate Eleusinia passeth clear through the City although not in a very streight Line you will come to the Front of a Building over the Street in an Entrance fashioned like a Temple It hath without doubt been one of the most Magnificent Buildings in Athens both for the bigness and beauty Templum Iovis Olympici Lib. V. The Entrance hath been in the middle of the Front which regardeth the West as may be proved from the Remains of it For on the North-side it is joyned to a Wall of the same Order adorned with Corinthian Pillars which are set upon Bases and a proportionable Frize above the Chapiters which are eighteen in number besides two on the North-side of the Vestibulum or Entrance To this is joyned a Wall in a right Angle which by pacing we found to be at least an Hundred twenty five Paces long which is a Stadium and about as much again as it is from the Corner to the Vestibulum or Porch on the West side But it is not adorned like it nor ever hath been so that I could perceive So that I believe the West-side was the principal Front and that the Porch stood in the middle of that side and by consequence was as long again as what now remains and equal to the North-side and so made a perfect Square of four Stadia that is Five hundred Paces about without doubling the length or making Outworks to it as my Comrade hath imagined And this is the Circumference Pausanias gives to the Temple of Jupiter Olympius Besides it is here in the lower Parts of the Town from the Prytaneum as Pausanias clearly seems to insinuate which lay on the North-side of the Castle as Thucydides placeth it This Circumference was not meerly the Temple as my Comrade seemeth to intimate by doubling the length to make it in proportion like that of Minerva For thus it would be a monstrous Building and could no way be accommodated to one side which is a Stadium long For suppose the Front which is the narrowest side of the Temple of Minerva to which he compares it to be one Stadium broad the Flanks to it must be two Stadiums which with the Parallel to the Front makes six Stadiums about Suppose the Front-ends to be half a Stadium apiece then the two sides would be two Stadiums against the Hypothesis of one side being a Stadium and the whole would be five Stadiums and this Porch remaining would be in the Corner Besides what possibility is there of making a Roof to a Building of Threescore and two Geometrical Paces and one half that is Three hundred and twelve Feet and one half broad So that it is plain this Building was exactly four square and that each side contained a Stadium which makes four Stadia as the remaining side doth Nor yet do I believe that this Wall was the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Temple it self but only the Peribolus or Court that surrounded the Temple And this is plain from Pausanias also if we follow himself and not his Interpreters 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 c. Before you enter into the To Hieron or sacred Place of Jupiter Olympian Hadrian founded the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with the Image very worthy to be seen What difference there is between Hieron and Naon let better Antiquaries judge But sure I am Pausanias here puts it to make a distinction between that which Hadrian built of later times comparatively speaking and that very antient Hieron which they generally supposed Deucalicon built presently after the Deluge and was situate somewhere within beyond the Building or Enlargement which Hadrianus added What Pausanias says is this At the Entrance before you enter the Hieron or sacred Place of Jupiter Olympius that was built of old Hadrian the Roman Emperour in his time built the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 putting an Image of Jupiter therein very worthy to be seen not for bigness and greatness For Colossian Statues are only at Rhodes and Rome The like also may be seen in other Statues There are Statues also both of Ivory and Gold excellently well made for their bigness especially two Statues of the Emperour Hadrian himself the one of Thassian the other of Egyptian Marble But those are Brazen Statues that stand by the Pillars which the Athenians call the colony-Colony-Cities because many of them were sent from such Places as were Colonies either of Rome or Athens The whole Court 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is four Stadia about and full of such Statues each City of the Roman Empire or Alliance having sent one and placed it there to
call the place about it Palaeo-Chori that is Old-Towm Having passed through the Olive-yards about a mile further we left an old Tower a little way to the left hand My Companion stepp'd to it and finding several Inscriptions upon Sepulchral Pillars he copied them and so we came at last to the end of the plain to the Sea-shore where Mount Corydalis running with its Western point a little into the Sea makes the Promontory Amphialia about six or seven miles from Athens Between this Promontory and Salamina is a Streight which is not a mile over in the narrowest part where we passed it over by a Ferry attending there for Passengers Salamis is now called Colouri and as our Consul esteems it is about fifty Miles in compass It hath a Harbour on the West-side eight Miles in length and three Miles broad in the largest space It is of an Ovael Figure and at the bottom of its Bay hath a Town of the same name with the present name of the Island viz. Colouri This Town at present consists of about an hundred and fifty poor Cottages and perhaps of four hundred Persons There are two other Villages in the Island the one situate upon a Hill on the South-side of the Harbour about five or six Miles off and in sight of Colouri and is called Metropis The other called Ambelachi is situated near the Streight towards Athens They consist of about thirty Houses apiece The antient City Salamis was by this last remov'd a little more to the Sea-side where it had a little Harbour in which at this day appear many antient Foundations under Water of carved Stone and according to the appearance of Ruins all thereabouts the City ought to have been near four Miles about Near the Ruins of an antient Temple we found these Lines on a black Marble Stone which hath the antient name ΣΑΛΑΜΙÎΑ Salamis engraven on it ÎΙΚΟΚΛΗΣ ΗΓΗΣΙΠΠΟΥ ΑΠΑΓΥΡΑΣΙΟΣ ΕΙΚΟÎΑ ΤΗΠΔΕ ΑÎΕΘΗΚΕΠÎΙ ..... ΜΩΠΠΑΤΡΟΣ ΕΑΥΤΟΥ ΑΘΑÎΑΤΟΙΣΙ ΘΕΟΙΣ ΚΟΣΜΩΠΙΕΡΑΠΣΑΛΑΜΙÎΑ That is Nicocles Son of Hegesippus of Anagyra NI .... Perhaps Nicocles erected this Statue of his Father to the Immortal Gods adorning holy Salamis This Island was the Kingdom of Valiant Ajax and this was the chief City of it Ajax was then so powerful as Homer testifies that he furnished a dozen Sail of Ships to joyn with the rest of the Navy of Greece in the Trojan War This Island in after-times was much contended for between the Athenians and Megarians but to whom soever of right it belonged the Megarians were forced to submit to and acquiesce quiesce in the Conquest of it by their more powerful Neighbours the Athenians We saw and copied several other Inscriptions and a little Basso-relievo I found masoned in the Wall of an old Church which I prevailed with the Pappa to remove and is one of the three I described at Athens Salamis hath many high Rocks and Cliffs but withal several fruitful Valleys running between them which bear good store of Wheat and Barley Of the Pine-trees on the Hills they make good store of Pitch and of the Lentiscus Wood growing there in good plenty they make Soap-ashes So that with these Commodities and their Fishing the Inhabitants make shift to get a poor Living Athens being their Market for all Above the Village Colouri PLANTS at SALAMIS or COLOURI is a high cragged Rock upon which among other Plants I gathered a kind of Medica which creepeth on the Ground and is beset with Leaves growing close to the Stalk something like Kidney-Vetches every Stalk being set with them three four five and sometimes six upon a Stalk covered with a Silver Hoariness The Flowers follow in little Tufts of five or fix golden-colour'd Blossoms these are succeeded by crooked flat Cods like a Half-Moon and not much unlike to Gerard's Trifolium lunatâ siliquâ pag. 1217. It agreeth well enough with his Description but not with his Figure for the Leaves of this are not snipped at the Edges as his Monsieur Merchant called it Auricula muris Camerarii There is another somewhat like to this but the Leaves of it are shorter and broader than the other The â—â—â—wers grow five or six together close to a creeping Stalk each followed with a large Husk swelled like a Bladder of a shining Silver-colour which when the Blossom is past swells bigger but what Cod it makes I saw not I gathered there also in the Fields a little kind of Iris or Flag bearing a pretty white Flower about a handful high from the Ground and the Leaves no broader nor longer than the ordinary Grass About Salamis we observed several other little Islands LIPSOCATALIA as between the Streight and Porto-Lione a desart one called now Lipsocatalia but by Strâbo Psytalia Beyond the Streight towards Eleusis are two other little Rocks or Islands close together the one called Megala Kira and the other Micra Kira On one of these it was called antiently also Kera that Xerxes built a Silver Throne to sit and see the Battle fought between his and the Grecian Fleet the Issue whereof was That the Greeks handled his great and numerous Navy so that in the end he hardly escaped himself in a small Boat We contented our selves with the sight of the rest of the Islands in the Saronick Gulph by viewing them from the Attick Shore But our good Friend the Consul who had often visited them gave us also a more particular Account of them by the help of which and our own Observation we are enabled to give a more exact Account of it than any hath been yet published which I think very proper to insert in this Place because the whole Saronick Gulph is so frequently mentioned in antient History This Gulph is contained within the Promontory Sunium now called Capo Colonni on the Attick Shore and Schillaeum now Capo Skillo on the Morean of Peloponnesian Shore which I suppose to be about two or three and twenty Miles distant from each other by the Observations I have made as well upon Mount Hymettus as the Promontory Sunium and by the same Proportion from the Entrance to the bottom of the Gulph to the Isthmus is about fifty five Miles There are many little Islands in this Gulph but the principal are Aegina Colouri and Porus and these only are inhabited They had in times past a Veivode and Caddi common to them all But of late they have thought good to make an Agreement with the Captain Basha and to pay him yearly seven hundred eighty five Dollers for all their Duties By which means they are left to themselves and might grow Rich again did not the Corsairs haunt them so much For they have Ground enough to cultivate for so few Inhabitants Aegina is now the chief Island AEGINA and giveth Name at present to the whole Gulph as the River Saron did in times past It continues its antient Name still among the Greeks although our Seamen corruptly Tcall it
Thus in about four Hours time from Athens we arrived at Eleusis ELEUSIS now called Lepsina or Lephsina Eleusis was heretofore a City of great Antiquity and in those early times vied with the Athenians for Empire until it was reduced by Theseus In the most flourishing times of Athens it was one of their principal Towns but is now crushed down under their hard Fortune having been so ill treated by the Christian Pirats more inhuman than the very Turks that all its Inhabitants have left it there being now nothing remaining but Ruins The Place is situated upon a long Hill stretched out near to the Sea South-East and North-West not far distant from the foot of the Mountain Gerata The whole Hill seems to have been built upon but chiefly towards the Sea Where the first thing we came unto TEMPLE OF CERES was the stately Temple of Ceres now laid prostrate on the Ground I cannot say not having one Stone upon another for it lieth all in a confused heap together the beautiful Pillars buried in the Rubbish of its dejected Roof and Walls and its goodly carved and polished Cornishes used with no more respect than the worst Stone of the Pavement It lies in such a rude and disorderly manner that it is not possible to judge of its antient Form only it appear'd to have been built of most beautiful white Marble and no less admirable Work Some Chapters we saw of the Ionick Order being three foot nine inches and an half Diameter which belonged to Pillars of two foot and eleven inches Diameter I took the Dimensions of a very beautiful Corner-Stone likewise being six foot five inches square two foot one inch and a quarter thick We observed many other large Stones among them carved with Wheat-ears and bundles of Poppy bound together being the Characters of Ceres Simulacri Cereris Eleusiniae fragmentu Lib VI Lib. VI. Basis Simusacri Cereris Eleusinioe p. 429 ΑΡΞΑÎΤΟΣ ΤΗΠΕΠΩ ..... ΤΙΒ. ΚΛ. ΣΩΣΠΙΔΟΣ ΔΑ ..... ΤΙΒ. ΚΛ. ΛΥΣΙΛΛΟΥ ΔΑ ...... ΤΙΒ. ΚΛ. ΛΕΩÎΙΔΟΥ ΔΑΔΟΥΧΟΥ ΣΥÎΚΛΗΤΙΚΩΠΑÎΕΘ ...... ΕÎÎΕΑ ΚΑΙ ΔΕΚΑΤΟ ..... ΔΙΑ ΒΙΟΥ ΔΙΠΛΩ ΤΩ Î .... ΛΟΓΙΣΤΗΠΚΑΤΑ ΠΕ ..... ΕΠΙΔΑΥΡΙΟΙΣ ΧΑΙΡΩ ΚΟΡΩÎΕΥϹΙ ΘΗΒΑ ...... ΤΗΣ ΤΕ ΑΛΛΗΣ ΑΡΕΤΗϹ Here we found other Inscriptions also some upon Stones above Ground and in the Walls of old Churches others we found almost buried in the Ground and digg'd them out For we carried a Mattock and a Spade usually from Athens with us Some are Dedications to the Goddesses Ceres and Proserpina some to the Emperours as Marcus Aurelius which for Brevities sake I shall omit only I shall add this belonging to the Deities of this as pertinent to the Illustration of it ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΡΗΙ Η ΙΕΡΑ ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑ Îœ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΠΛΙΘΟΦΟΡΟΠΠΡΟΣΔΕΚΤΟΠΠΙΣΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΥ ΚΕΦΑΛΗΘΕΠΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΣΑÎΤΑ ΠΡΟΙΚΑ ΤΙΜΗΘΕÎΤΑ ΔΕ ΥΠΟ ΘΕΟΥ ΚΟΜΜΟΔΟΥ ΤΗ ΡΩΜΑΙΩΠΠΟΛΕΙΤΕΙΑ ΑΡΞΑÎΤΑ ΤΟΥ ΚΗΡΥΚΩΠΓΕÎΟΥΣ ΑΡΞΑΠΤΑ ΤΗΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ ΓΕΡΟΥΣΙΑΣ ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΑΣ ΕÎΕΚΑ ΑΤΤΙΚΟΣ ΕΥΔΟΞΟΠΣΦΗΤΤΙΟΣ ΕΠΟΙΗΣΕΠWhile my Companion and I were thus busied our Curiosities were surprized on a sudden with the noise of two Guns going off I presently ran to the next convenient place to look down at to see what the matter was which I had no sooner done but saw Mouratis our Druggerman lie sprauling as kill'd I quickly call'd to my Companion and told him we were beset by the Corsairs or Rogues He thought I jested but I assured him I saw Mouratis lie kill'd as I thought Where the Consul was I could not tell but we hasted to his Rescue either to save him or lose our Lives with him So with all the expedition the Rocks and Ruins would give us leave we ran to the Place where we found the Consul rubbing Mouratis to bring him to Life again of whom after we had shaken off our surprize we understood the matter to be no more than being employed about providing us some Meat they started a Hare just by them which as soon as they saw our Guide took my Fowling-piece and Mouratis a short Carbine with a large Bore charged with four Bullets and shot at her But the Carbine having been charged some days before and perhaps with a greater quantity of Powder than was fit in the Discharge the Piece recoiled so that it felled him down backward and struck all the Breath out of his Body When he came to himself it was a good while before we could learn of him what was the matter and then he could hardly be perswaded but that he had broken some of his Ribs But Jani who had in vain run after the Hare returning gave us a more particular Account of the Accident and made us content that the poor Hare had escaped us as well as we the danger we feared It happened at the same time some Athenians coming that way from Corinth hearing the Guns go off and seeing three or four Men of us traversing those Ruins were frighted as much as we and concluding us to be Corsairs lying there in ambush to rob and do Mischief ran away as hard as they could drive and hid themselves in the Woods not far off Where having staid a pretty while and beginning to doubt whether they might not be mistaken and their Fear groundless sent out a little Boy as their Scout to discover what we were who coming nearer to us happened to know some of us Upon which he return'd and shewed his Company their mistake So having comforted Mouratis as well as we could causing him to drink a large draught of Wine after Dinner we set forward again on our Journey being very glad that we came off so well and blessing God that this once he suffered us to fear where no fear was Our way lying along under the North-side of the Hill where Eleusis stood as we went we observ'd the Ruins of an Aqueduct that came in a streight Line from the Mountains North of Eleusis and amongst an heap of Rubbish the Trunk of a Statue without either Hands or Feet which having removed we found to be of a Sheep dedicated to Ceres by the Megarians in antient times The whole way was then covered with Anemonies of several Colours and wonderfully beautiful After a Miles riding we turned about the Corner of the Hill to the left hand and between that and the Foot of the Mountain we came to a Spring which we believed was the Place where Ceres sate her self down when she arrived at Eleusis weary with the fruitless search after her Daughter Proserpina They called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Floridus It hath but a small Stream running from it and I question whether it be not lost before it comes into the Sea in its Passage through the Valley between Eleusis and the Mountain Gerata which Valley I suppose was that antiently called Rharius where they held that the first Wheat was sown by Ceres Direction The Valley is not above two or three Miles compass but looks as it were a Place both fruitful and well cultivated But
the Plain of Lepsina or Eleusis which lieth between Eleusis and the Mountain Daphne is about seven or eight Miles long Westwards and three or four broad from the Sea Northwards is not so well tilled but abounds with those Oaks they make Vellania of But Northwards towards the Mountains it is covered with Woods of Pines At this Fountain we parted with our Consul and soon after began to climbe up the Mountain Gerata by a way so ill that we spent in going up and coming down from before two a Clock till after Sun-set This Mountain is called now Gerata as well as in antient times Kerata M. GERATA KERATA from two piked Rocks on the top which shew like two Horns On one of them is a Tower called now Gerata-pyrga PLANTS I observed much of the Herba Terribilis growing upon this Mountain and of that Thorney Spurge I before mentioned whereof I plucked up a young Root which was long and almost Bulbous but hollow and full of Milk After this we passed through a plain for about an hour and brought Night with us to Megara and lodged at a Greek's House MEGARA where we were like to be choak't with Smoak not could we have been accommodated any where better in the Town as we were told For Chimnies are not in fashion with them The only way for the Smoak to go out is either at the Door or at a Hole made in the top of the Room There is a Kan indeed belonging to the Town but so ill kept that there is no Lodging in it The next day we spent in seeing the Place and searching for its Antiquities This Place hath preserved its antient Name Megara and is situated in a Valley between the Mountain Kerata North which hath a Ridge running North-Westwards to joyn with Mount Cithaeron at the Bottom of a Bay of the Corinthian Gulph called now Livadostro The whole Mountain is called vulgarly Macriplai or the Long Mountain Westwardly towards Corinth the Plain is bounded with the Mountain called now Palaio bouni or the Old Mountain and antiently Gerania the Gulph of Engia or the Saronick South-Eastwards and the Bay Livadostro North-Westwards This Territory is not unfruitful about it is twenty Miles compass and was called in times past 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 The City was built upon two little Rocks stretched out South South-East and West North-West about two Miles from the Shore of the Saronick Gulph It hath the Isle Egina in sight South by East and Colouri South-East The antient Bounds of it yet appearing comprehend those two Rocks and some part of the Plain Southwards But now it is only built upon one of the Rocks consisting of pitiful Cottages whose Walls are sometimes only the broken Stones of her Ruins or Clay dried in the Sun covered only with Faggots and those again spread over with Earth above them They are built close together but are only of one Story high and may be about three or four hundred in number In the middle of the Town on the highest point of the Rock is a Tower where a Veivode lived until the Corsairs came and took him away which hath ever since so skared the Turks that they durst no longer stay there So that they are now wholly without Turks in the Town But the Christians that are stand in such great fear of the Pirates whether Turks or Infidels pretending to be Christians that upon sight of every Boat in the day-time and but hearing their Dogs bark in the night they presently fall to packing up their few Goods which they hide as well as they can and run away Not long since the French Consul at Athens made an Agreement between them and Crevelly the chief of the Pirates of the Archipelago to give him yearly an hundred and fifty Measures of Corn to let them live in quiet They get their living by tilling the Ground for which they have half the Crop The rest the Turks have as their Landlords under the Grand Signior They also make Pitch and saw out Planks and Boards out of the Pines and Firrs which grow in great abundance on the Mountains about them The Antiquities we observed here were several fine Inscriptions ΣΑΒΕΙÎΑΠΒΑΣΙΛΙΣΣΑΠΣΕΒΑΣΤΗΠÎΕΑΠΔΗΜΗΤΡΑ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΥ ΓΥÎΑΙΚΑ ΠΑΜΦΥΛΟΙ ΥΠΟ ΤΗΠΕΠΙΜΕΙΛΕΙΑΠΙΟΥ ΛΙΟΥ ΚΑΠΙΤΟΥ ΚΡΑΤΙΣΤΟΥ ΑÎΘΥΠΑΤΟΥ ΣΤΡΑΤΗΓΟΥÎΤΟΣ .......... ΑΙΣΧΙΩÎΟΣ ΤΟΥ ΔΑΜΟΚΡΑΤΟΥΣ The first as we entred into the Town was of the Empress Sabina Wife to Hadrianus dedicated when Julius Canditus was Proconsul of Achaia by the Pamphilians But what Pamphilians these were whether those of Asia minor or the City of Macedonia or of any other Town not mentioned in these Parts I determine not They compliment Sabina with the Title of New Ceres ÎΕΑΠΔΗΜΗΤΡΑ There is another of Herodes Atticus of whom I have before spoken In the Walls toward the Sea-side at the left hand of the Gate is the Foundation of a little square Building At one side of which are two great Stones and between them was the Entrance into the Building They seem to have had Statues set upon them by the Marks where their Feet were fastened And on the side is engraven a Catalogue of the several Athletick Games they were Victors in MEGARA Lib VI ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ ΕΠΠΕΙΣΗ ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΠΔΕΛΟΙΣ Î’. ÎΕΜΕΙΑ ΕÎΑΡ ΓΕΙ Γ. ΙΣΘΜΙΑ Î’. ΠΑÎΑΘΗÎΑΙΑ ΕΠΑΘΗÎΑΙΣ Î’. ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ ΕΠΑ ΘΗΠΑΙΣ ΠΑÎΕΛΛΗÎΙΑ ΕΠΑΘΗÎΑΙΣ ΕΛΕΥΣΕΙÎΙΑ ΕΠΑΘΗÎΑΙΣ Γ. ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΑ ΕΠΘΗ ΒΑΙΣ ΤΡΟΦΩÎΕΙΑ ΕΠΛΕΒΑΔΕΙΑ ΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΕΙΑ ΕΠΠΛΑΤΕΑΙΣ ΤΗΠΕΥΖΑΡΤΗΣ ΑΣΠΙΔΑ ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΠΜΕΙ ΛΗΤΩ ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΠΜΑΓÎΗ ϹΙΑ ΚΟΙÎΑ ΑϹΙΑϹ ΕΠΦΙΛΑΔΕΛΦΕΙΑ ΑΚΤΙΑ ΕΠÎΕΙΚΟ ΠΟΛΕΙ Î’. ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΠϹΙΔΗ Î’. ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΠΠΕΡΤΗ Δ. ΠΥΘΙΑ ΕΠΘΕϹϹΑ ΛΟÎΕΙΚΗ ΑϹΚΛΕΠΙΔΕΙΑ ΕΠΕΠΙΔΑΥΡΩ ΚΑΠΗΤΩΛΙΑ ΕΠΡΩΜΗ ΑΘΥΙÎΑϹ ΠΡΟΜΑΧΟΥ ΕΠΡΩΜΗ Δ. ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΑ ΕΠΠΟΤΙΟ ΛΟΙΣ ϹΕΒΑΣΤΑ ΕΠÎΕΑΠΟΛΕΙ I was of opinion that it belong'd to some Gymnasium But my Comrade said It was a Sacellum dedicated to some Great Heroes expert in those Games whose Names although not written thereon yet might perhaps be engraven on some other Stone on the Architrave of the Building But Pausanias confirms me in my Opinion For he speaks of an old Gymnasium by the Gate Nymphadia which I believe to be this by the Thread of his Discourse For he cometh from the Market-place by the way called the Streight-way 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which was undoubtedly this For it lieth as streight as possible to the Sea-side to Nicaea Not far thence is another great Stone twelve foot long with an Inscription upon it in Honour of a Gymnasiarch and a Grammarian by the Senate and People η βȣλη ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ... ΑΠΚΑΛΩÎΕΙΚΟΥ ... ÎΑΣΙΑΡΧΟΥÎΤΑ ΤΩ ΔΦΛΕΚΑ ... ΠΚΑΙ ΕΚΑΤΟΣ ΤΟΠΕΤΟϹ ΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΗ ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟϹ ... ΚΑΛΛΕÎΕΙΚΟΠÎΟΜΙΑΔΑ ΓΡΑΜΜΑΤΕΥϹΑÎΤΑϹ ΓΥΜÎΑϹΑΡ ΧΗϹΑÎΤΑ ΕΚ ΤΩΠΙΔΙΩΠΗ ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΛΗΜΟΣ ΔΗΜΗΤΡΙΟΠΠΡΑΞΙΟÎΑ On the same Stone is another Inscription of his Son bearing the same Office and another
We searched about for the Grotto of the God Pan in old times very much celebrated in these parts but could neither find it nor hear any news of it From hence it would have been our nearer way to Negropont to have gone directly on but they told us there was no way thence over the Mountain Nosea for that coming along from the Mountain Pentelicus it ends here towards the Sea in unpassable Rocks and Precipices We were therefore forced to return as far back as Marathon to recover our way to Negropont MARATHON Marathon is now but a pitiful ruined Village which we thought not worth alighting to see therefore leaving it a little beyond it we began to go up the Mountain Nosea our way lying along the River I before spake of which here and there makes little Cataracts or falls of Water as it descendeth into the Plain What ancient name it had I know not unless Charadra whence the Town was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 After an hour and half 's riding from Marathon we passed by a ruined Village called Kalingi KALINGI upon the side of the Mountain and about as far more on the Plain on the top of the Mountain another called Capandritti CAPANDRITTI or Capodritti famous for good Wine One of these I believe was anciently the Town Oenoa of which the Proverb 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Thence we proceed almost to the highest point of the Mountain by an easie ascent an hours riding further Whence I saw the highest point of Mount Hymettus and Pentelicus Southwards the Gulf of Negropont or Euripus North Mount Casha or Parnes Westwards On this Mountain is a large Plain bounded with the high Mountains of Casha and its own highest Cliffs towards the Plain of Marathon being a great Portion or part of Diacria above-mention'd As to the ancient name of this Mountain although from Pentelicus hither I heard of no other present name that it hath then Nosea or Nozea yet I guess it had formerly two names First That part which reacheth from Vrania to Marathon and again from the Plain of Athens towards Parnes to have been called Brilessus and that Thucydides teacheth me saying Thucyd. p. 115. that the Lacedemonians being come with their Army into Attica by the Plains of Eleusis and Thryassius leaving Parnes on the left hand and Aegalis on the right pitched their Tents at Acharna and thence when they saw the Athenians would not come out to fight removing their Camp they spoiled some of their Towns between Parnes and Brilessus and so return'd by Oropus and Boeotia Whence it is plain that this part at least of Nozea confining upon Parnes was called anciently Brilessus As to the other part of this Mountain beyond Marathon to the Gulph of Negropont it is not so clear yet I believe it went by another name in times past first because it lay not so near the Lacedemonians way to Oropus as this which they must necessarily pass over to go thither And then it seems naturally to be severed at Marathon by the River whence it riseth still higher and higher towards the North end and also towards the South making two distinct Ridges but chiefly because I know not where to place the Mountain Lycobettus but here and that with some probability from the name Lycabetus which seemeth to be derived either from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying a Wolf with which the desart and rocky places of this Mountain might be infested or lastly from Lycus second Son to Pandion King of Athens whose Heritage left him by the King his Father was all that Mountainous Country lying towards the Island of Euboea and was called Diacria and Huperdiacria and therefore most likely the Mountain bearing his name was in his Country From the top of this Mountain we descended about an hour and more along a torrent and came by that time it was dark to a Town on the side of the Mountain called Marcopoli The Inhabitants of this place were once not long since about to run away for Poverty and Debt But the Benignity of the Captain Basha who alloweth them the third of their labour and the ground hath hitherto kept about fifty or three-score Families of them together to inhabit there By some fragments of Antiquity still remaining This place should have been in ancient times more considerable than now it seems Perhaps it was Hyttania afterwards called Tetrapolis because it had four Towns under it viz. Marathon Probalinthus Tricorithus and Oinea For so I understand Stephanus Byzantinus although others take it to be no particular Town or City but all the four Towns jointly to be called by that common name Tetrapolis But these seem not to have read far enough in the Lexicon nor to consider what Stephens there quoteth out of Androsion 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Androsion saith it is called Tetrapolis by reason of the four Towns above-named But that it self was called in times before Hyttania The next day we parted early and descending yet lower on the side of the Mountain we came to the shore of Euripus along which continuing our way two hours and a halfs riding we came to the mouth of the River Asopus which we had formerly passed over in our way to Athens from Thebes but was now there so swelled with the Rains that had fallen from the Mountain Parnes that we could not pass it over on Horseback Therefore we continued our way along the Banks till we came to Oropo OROPUS a large Town consisting I believe of two hundred Houses This was undoubtedly the ancient Town Oropus in the Confines of Attica and Boeotia so much contested for between the Athenians and Thebans It is situated two or three Miles from the Sea upon the Attick side of the River Thycydidis lib. 2. the Region about it being formerly called Pyrace and is I believe the narrow Plain under Parnes and Lycobettus on the Southside of the Asopus About two or three Miles further being Noon we passed over the River Asopus by a Ferry to a Village called Scamino And then we judged our selves quite out of the Athenian Territories And again in Boeotia Scamino is a Town almost as big as Oropus SCAMINO and is situated on the other side of the River under a steep Hill North-East of it whereon I believe also the greatest part of the ancient Town was built My Companion thinks that it was called in times past Sycaminon as I guess from Laurenburgius But I know not their reason I believe it to have been a place more considerable than such an obscure Village if such a one there ever was for I can no where find it The ancient Ruins of this place shew it to have been a large City The Greeks have yet many Churches in it among the rest Hagioi seranda or the Church of Forty Saints Panagia and Hagios Elias which are built out of ancient Ruins among which we observed some Inscriptions By
one we should have judg'd this place to have been Oropus had not the true Oropus so well preserved its ancient name I take the Hill by it to be that called Cerycius Mons in more ancient times And the Town to have been Tanagra so much spoken of and described last on the River Asopus by the ancients It was called first Paemandria after that Graea and Tanagraea as Pausanias but now Scamino Thence it is about three hours riding to Negropont in the way to which we passed by a Village called Dramish DRAMISH inhabited only by Fishermen and within three or sour Miles of Negropont a Port called yet Megalo Bathy MEGALO BATHY or Vathi of which Strabo takes notice by the same name signifying Portus Profundus Near this there is another small Bay called Micro Bathy MICRO BATHY and lastly there is a large Bay which hath two narrow Entrances one on this side and the other at the City making the famous Streight of the Euripus This Bay hath good Moorage all over and was the famous Port Aulis in times past where all the Grecian Fleet assembled to go against the Trojans But of the Town Aulis we observed no remainder although it was for certain near Chalcis now called Negropont by the Francks where we arrived in very good time and went and lodged at the House of one Gioseppe Rosso formerly a Slave of Malta but now bears the Character of French Consul there Negropont is called by the Grecians Egripos NEGROPONT EGRIPOS EVRIPUS as well the City as the Island which is very probably a corruption of the word Evripus which the Greeks would pronounce Evripos making the V after another Vowel sound as the Latines and we do the V Consonant and sometimes like an F or Ph. But the barbarous name by which the Italians and we from them call it hath no foundation for it but the ignorance of the Language For there is no such thing as a Black Bridge over the Euripus for them to call it Negropont from it Perhaps they might hear the Greeks say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or is ton Egripon or short Ston Egripon from which sound they might accommodate Negripon or Negroponte or the like to their own Language as is ordinary for both Francks and Turks to do of the Greek names as I have often noted The City Egripus then is upon or hard by the place where Chalcis stood formerly that is on a Peninsula of the Island anciently called Euboea and is there separated from Boeotia by a narrow streight which is passed over first by a small Stone-Bridge of four or five Arches to a little Tower built by the Venetians in the middle of the Chanel from whence to the Town is a Draw-Bridge no larger than to let a Gally pass thorough The Walls of the Town are not above two Miles about But there are more Buildings and People in the Suburbs of the Christians beyond than in the City where only Turks and Jews inhabit The Turks have two Mosques within and two without where the Christians have also their Churches The City is separated from the Suburbs by a deep Ditch and the Inhabitants of both may amount probably to fourteen or fifteen thousand people There are six or seven Families of the Francks among them and a Seminary of Jesuits who pretend to be there only to teach their Children but withal to do as much service to the Romanists as they can This is the chief residence of the Captain Basha or General of the Turkish Fleet who is Governour both of this City and Island and the Adjacent parts of Greece having a Keiah or Deputy under him A Fleet of Gallies still lie here to be ready upon all occasions to go out against the Pyrates and those of Malta His Palace is without the Town upon the Shore North-East off the Bridge Fortified only by the Gallies fastned to the shore above it His Brother Achmet Basha lives in the Town at the Palace which was the residence of the Proveditore of the Venetians before this Island was taken from them by Mahomet the Second This is situate on the shore on the Eastern-side of the Bridge and therein we were shewed some Vaults with secret Passages to go out with Boats to the Euripus where the Proveditore of that unhappy time of the Family Erizzo endeavoured to escape but was discovered by Spies taken and most barbarously put to death by that Cruel Tyrant and Enemy to Christendom His fair Daughter Signora Anna though she had an equal share of her Fathers unhappy Fate yet thereby purchased to her self such Glory as is worth many times the dying for For she being courted to his Bed by the offers of the Empire of the World by the lure of Crowns and Scepters to tread on to be made shine with all the glittering Jewels of the East scorned and contemned them chusing rather the bloody Ponyard than all that dazling Grandeur with the impious and foul Embraces of that Incarnate Devil her Fathers Murderer Insomuch that Mahomet being enraged to see his Lust his Glory and his Power so mightily opposed and defeated by the Virtue of a tender and weak Virgin drew out his Cimiter and in his Fury hewed her all to pieces Her Memory is Sacred among the Venetians and highly deserves to be Enroll'd among Glorious Martyrs On the Walls of this Palace we found an Inscription bearing date MCCLXXIII which speaks of a work then begun in the Month of May 409. Years ago and Dedicated to the Honour of God and St Mark the Evangelist by the Illustrious Nicolas Miliani Baiul of Negropont and his Counsellers Michael of Andros and Peter Navaiarius My Comrade thinks this was some Chappel but I rather believe it was this Palace it self †ANNO AB INCARNATIONE DNI NRI IHV XPI MILLE CCLXXIII MES MAIO HOC OPVS FEC INCHOARI NOBIL VIR DNVS NICOLAVS MLLIANI BAIVL NIGROPONTIS ET EIVS CONSI LARIIDNI MAHEL DE ANDRO ET PETRVSNAVAI ARIO IN HONORE DEI ET BEATI MARCI EVAG By the Water on the same side of the City is an old Castle where we were shewed among other great Guns several Mortar-pieces of such a prodigious Bore as are capable to fling Stones of two Foot and three Inches Diameter Egripo is a place very well serv'd with all manner of Provisions at very low rates Mutton is scarce worth a penny a pound Kids and Goats flesh not above an half-penny Fish will not sell for more than a Farthing the pound Wine is about two pence the Crondriry that is about our Wine-Gallon Here also they make Sweetmeals of all sorts of Fruits Quinces Pears Plums Nuts Wallnuts and Almonds for Sugar they use Wine boil'd to a Syrup and make them grateful enough to the tast yet I believe they would hardly please some of our nice Ladies unless perhaps because they were far fetch'd We should be extreamly to blame Of the
passage yet somewhat lower we came to the Ruins of a Town hear unto which on the side of the Hill we observed a curious Fountain running down thence into the Thebane Lake This Town might be the ancient Hyla which gave name to the Lake HYLA Here also I found some fragments of Inscriptions but such as gave me no hint of the ancient name of it Descending yet lower down the Mountain towards the Lake leaving the way to Thebes on the left hand and turning under the Mountain Cocino which we kept at our right we came in less than an hour to a small Village called Hungaro just by the old Passage of Cephisus HUNGARO into the Hylica palus according to Strabo When I had made all my Observations of it according to what I have before said by a very ill way Southwards we mounted up the Hill now called Mazaraci MAZARACI from a Monastery that is on it of like name This is that Hill or Mountain which Strabo describes by the name Phoenicius and Pausanias by the name of Sphingis mons On the top of it is a good large Plain which lyeth desart rather as I judge for want of Cultivation than of fertility Thence after Dinner and an hours further riding we descended by the Covent Mazaraci into the Plain of Thebes leaving a ruined Village about a Mile Eastward of Mazaraci We might soon have crossed over this end of the Plain it being narrow had not the Water after the Rains setled there and made the ground so false and rotten that we feared almost every step to be swallowed up both Horse and Man together to prevent which we went afoot our selves But having by Gods help escaped that danger and crossed the way from Thebes to Livadia we ascended again another Hill bounding the Plain of Thebes from the Plain of Rimocastri Southwards and came to Rimocastri on the other side of it an hour before Night I made a stop on the top of this Hill RIMOCASTRI and surveighed the Country about me For thence I had the sight of a great part of Boeotia that I had not before seen especially the Plain of Rimocastri But those parts I left behind I observed to lie thus The Mountain by Thalanda North North-West The Passage between the Mountains from Cocino and the rest of Ptoos North-East by North. A Mountain towards Egripo I think Typo-Vouni East-North-East Chasha or Parnes East-South-East Elatea or Cithaeron beginneth South-East and descendeth somewhat upon the Corinthian Gulph to wit on the Bay of that Gulph called now Livadostro South South-West Whence ariseth a high Rock off from it and Helicon West South-West The top of the Helicon appears hence West by North being the nearest Rimocastri is situated upon the Brow of this Hill over-looking a large Plain South and hath an unlimited prospect towards the Morea between Helicon and Cithaeron It is divided into three little knots of Houses two upon the Hill and one below which may in all consist of about a hundred Cottages of Greeks and Albaneses all Christians except a Sub-Basha that governs them who is a Turk That part of the Town which stands upon the point of the Brow seemeth to have been in former times fortified with a Ditch on the North-side on the other the Precipice of the Hill is its defence though at present needless their Poverty being security enough for them Here it is that I drank the best Wine the most generous and well tasted that I had done in all Greece In this Plain are many ancient Ruins of Towns and about this place and just under the Mountain are so many and great Ruins that it hath made some to suppose this place to have been the ancient Thespia But I am not of their opinion I think rather it was the ancient Thisba as I shall have occasion by and by again more expresly to conclude shewing by most probable Testimony where the old Thespia was Here I met with Morat our Druggerman who brought me news that he had seen my Companion safely Embarked Whereupon taking Horse the next day I made a Circuit about the Plain bending my course Westwards under the Hill and after about a Mile we came to some Ruins and old decayed Churches PHRIA called Phria where we also found some Inscriptions especially one which was a Pedestal dedicated by the Town to one Titus Flavius Aristus About a Mile further riding we came to another ruinated Town called Spatharia the Church whereof ruinated in like manner with the Town seem'd to have been built at first of ancient ill carved Marbles with Basso-relievoes of the same of men on Horse-back with their names and ΗΡΩΗ for title to each one of them Thence turning more South-Westwards we passed over by a Stone-Bridge a River coming from the Helicon and running Eastwards in this Plain and about two Miles further came to a Village called Neocoria or New-town just at the foot of the Mountain Zagara or Helicon hard by which are the Ruins of an ancient City upon a Hill with a steep descent from it every way except on that side where it is joined to the high Mountain above it In the way going up to it is a ruined Church which hath for the Altar a Cornish of a Pedestal of a Statue about four foot long and three foot large and a foot thick on the edge of which is an ancient Inscription wherein the Town Thespia is twice mentioned ΘΕΣΠΙΩΠΟΙ ΠΑΙΔΕΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΡΟΙΚΟΠ... ΠΡΜΑ ...... ΟΜΕÎΩΠΕΠΩΕΣΠΙΑΙΣ ΠΡΩΤΟΓΕÎΩΠΑΡΩΤΑΧΟΥ ΤΟΠΚΡΙΣ .. ΠΑΤΕΡΑ ΚΑΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΠΕΑΥΤΩ Î. Whence because it likewise agrees with the Description Pausanias gives of it I doubt not but this was the Seat of the ancient Thespia THESPIA It is about four Miles distant from Rimocastri Westwards and five or six from Cacos a Town seated in one of the Bayes of the Corinthian Gulph called now Livadostro Thence we turned South-East-wards and after two or three Miles riding over a little Hill we came to other Ruins of a Town called Palaeo-corio or Old Town where we likewise found some Inscriptions but less considerable Thence returning Eastwards we passed by another little Village called Tadza where are some marks of Antiquity and by it a curious Fountain which I guess to be that which was so celebrated in old times for the Fable of Narcissus and if so the Town should have been called Donacon Paus Lib. 3. p. 589. or Hedonacon as some read it I saw no Narcissus then growing it being yet too early in the Year But another time I saw abundance in the next Plain and several other places adjacent Yet what Pausanias saith of this Fountain agreeth with several other places in this Plain especially Rimocastri where there are many Springs up and down the Plain which collecting themselves into streams some run towards the Theban Lake and others to the Corinthian Gulph That which runs towards Thebes
do by Three Wents From the brow of the Mountain I had a very fair prospect down into the several Plains of Boeotia comprehending the Northern half of the Compass Under this Mountain therefore is first the Plain of Platea North of that the Plain of Thespia divided from Platea by one or two Ridges of Hills coming from that Hill which is between the Helicon and Cithaeron or between Livadostro and Cacos Beyond this are the Plains of Livadia and Thebes both of them bounded from Thespia by a Ridge coming from the Helicon which passing by Panagia and Rimocastri c. reacheth almost to Thebes The Plains of Livadia and Thebes are separated from each other by the Mountain Phaenicius or Sphinx Beyond Thebes North-East is the Campus Ionius under Mount Hypatus and Campus Tanagricus South of it Thence South of that is the Plain called Parascopia even to under the Eastern Ridge of Mount Cithaeron and Parnes so that Parascopia lyeth Eastwards parallel with the Plataeenses Tanagricus to that of Thespia and Ionius to the Theban Plain East and the Plain of Livadia West and North-West The Mountain Cocino and Mezeraci above Hylica palus lies just North beyond the Theban Plain The Hill bounding the Plain of Thebes and Livadia North-North-West Panagia being a ruined Tower and Town upon a pointed Rock on the Hill of Rimocastri and not above three or four Miles Westwards of that Town lyeth North-West In the same line beyond the Plain of Livadia is the highest point of Lycoria or Parnassus The highest point of the Helicon now Zagara West-North-West Macriplais the Mountain between the Plain of Eleutherus and the Plains of Eleusis and Megara South-East Nozea and Casha in old times Parnes and Lycabettus East When I had taken my fill of this prospect we descended again into the Plain passing by the Ruins of Hyssia near the foot of the Mountain about a Mile further by Plataea and a little further down into the Plain we staid to bait near the small stream I before mention'd where I now observed abundance of Narcissus growing along its Banks and shot a Lapwing or Pewit with sharp Spurs on the Wings as Cocks and Pheasants have on their Legs of which I observed something at Smyrna on Ducks Thence we passed over some Hills and arrived at Rimocastri an hour before Night the second day of our departure from Athens The next day we parted from Rimocastri keeping along the Hill it stands on towards Livadia and came to an old Ruined Tower with the remains of a Town about it seated upon a high point of a Rock part of some Hill PANAGIA called now only Panagia which is the same that I said lay North-West from the Passage over Mount Cithaeron It over-looketh the Plain of Thespia South and the Plain of Livadia North and is not above a Mile from Neo-coria or Thespia South Between both is a little Valley which hath a stream running thorough it by the Plain of Thespia into the Gulph or Bay of Livadostro This I suppose was the River Termessus which Pausanias saith floweth about the Helicon as this doth a good part of it CERESSUS This place is also most likely to be that Ceressus he speaks of saying it was a very strong castle of the Thespians and whither they fled upon every occasion when they fear'd the coming of the Thebans amongst them Here in several Ruined Churches I met with some Inscriptions one especially of such odd Characters and different from the ordinary that I cannot but question whether it were so very ancient or no. Another upon half a large Pedestal of a Statue of which Inscription I was able to read so much as shewed it to have been dedicated to the Emperour Commodus Here I was overtaken by a Messenger from the English Consul of Athens to let me know there was an English Ship arrived thither whereby I might have convenience to send my Marbles and whatever I would else into England which also in its return was to touch at Zant whither I was bound These Letters invited me very earnestly to return again thither But I was not willing to go so far back again thinking it more safe to go by Boat to Zant the same way I came we having then War with Tripoli and the Ship at Athens had no Convoy to guard it Therefore I sent back directions for what other Marbles I would have to be sent by the Ship and kept on my Journey but first return'd to Rimocastri After Dinner I parted again from Rimocastri and passed along that Hill towards the Plain of Livadia leaving the way to Panagia on our left hand not far beyond which I passed over a Torrent coming down from the Helicon with a great Stream and near where I passed it I observ'd several Springs with very plentiful Sources of Water This may be that Stream which was anciently called Permessus which descended from the Helicon and together with Olmeus falls into the Lake Copais by Haliartus as Strabo in his Ninth Book informs us After I had forded this Stream I pass'd over the Hill into the Plain of Livadia where leaving Megalomâ—lci about three Miles on our right hand we came that Evening to a small Village of the Albaneses on the side of it where we Lodged all Night Thence this Hill turning South Westwards towards the Helicon and joining with it enlargeth the Plain of Livadia to the foot of that Mountain whence it is again streightened by another little Mountain stretched out towards Livadia So that were this whole Plain filled with Water this would be a considerable Bay of the Lake Livadia This I judge to be the chief part of the Plain called from the City Coronaea Coronaei ager which City without doubt was situated in some eminent place of this Plain near the Helicon But where I am not certain I suppose it was either at St Georgio which is at the foot of the Helicon or at certain Ruins of a Tower I passed by the next day going that way or at least at the Ruins of Dyminia in the way from Livadia to Thebes As to the nearness to the Helicon St Georgio seemeth to agree better with it than either Dyminia or that Tower between them But the Stream which should be Coralius rising at Dyminia shews it rather to be there that it was situated The forty Stadia or five Miles from Mount Libethrius and twenty Stadia or two Miles and a half from Laphytius seem to shew that Libethrius Mountain was that towards Panagia and Rimocastri and that one of those towards Livadia was Laphytius But whether that agrees best to Dyminia the Tower or St Georgio I cannot well determine And indeed the Descriptions of the ancients are so defective for want of assigning the quarters of the Heavens to them that it is very hard for us that come so long after them to determine positively the true situation of their places and sometimes impossible If Dyminia
Atticus that built also the Stadium at Delphos and many other Magnificent Structures in other Parts of Greece But was not that Herodes that Reigned in Judaea at the time when Christ was born as Monsieur Spon hath shewed by a short but just Account out of Antiquities and Authors that mention him which because it is a Curiosity that every one doth not yet know I will not omit About the Beginning of this Century HERODES ATTICUS two Inscriptions were found at Rome one of this Herod and the other of his Wife Regella Casaubon gives the Explication of the first but as learned as he was he mistook notably in taking this Herod for him that Reigned in Judaea Arcudius with much better success shews That the Inscription concern'd that Illustrious Herod the Athenian But because every one knows not so much I will give you these following Particularities of it Heredes Atticus was a Citizen of Athens born at Marathon a little Town pertaining to the Tribe of Ajax He flourished about the time of the Emperours Trajan Adrian Antoninus and Marcus Aurelius His Grand-Father Hipparchus or as Suidas has it Plutarchus was well to pass in the World But having been accused of some Tyrannical Practices used towards the People the Emperour confiscated all his Estate so that his Son Atticus Father of this Herod lived afterward at Athens in a mean condition Until having found a great hidden Treasure in his own House near the Theater he became on a sudden very Rich. He was not more fortunate in finding it than prudent in getting it confirmed on himself For well knowing should it come to be discovered he should be obliged to give an Account of it to the Emperour because by the Law All found Treasure belongs to those Sovertign Princes in whose Dominions it is found and then he must look to become again as poor as ever He therefore forth-with wrote a Letter in this manner to the Emperour My Liege I have found a Treasure in my House what do you command that I shall do with it The Emperour answered him That he should make use of what he had found But Atticus yet fearing he might be in danger of some trouble when the greatness of the Treasure should come to be known wrote the second time to the Emperour professing ingeniously That the Treasure he had written to him about was too great a Possession for him and exceeded the Capacity of a private Man But the Emperour answers him again with the same Generosity Abuse also if thou wilt the Riches thou hast so ancidentally come by for they are thine By this means Atticus became again extream rich and powerful having married a Wise also that was very rich Whence it came to pass that his Son and Heir Herodel far surpassed his Father both in Wealth and Magnificence and became the Founder of many stately Edifiers in sundry Parts of Greece and dying left by his last Will ten Crowns to every Citizen of Atheus Neither did he partake less of Vertue and Merit than he did of Fortunes being very learned and so eloquent that he was called The Tongue of Athens having been the Disciple of the famous Phanoriuns Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Veras Emperours of his time made it their Glory that they had been his Auditors His entire Name was Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes as I prove by an Inscription that is at Athens in the House of Signior Nicolo Limbonai ΤΟΠΑΡΧΙΕΡΕΑ ΤΩΠΣΕΒΑΣ ΤΩΠΤΙΒ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΠΑΤΤΙ ΚΟΠΗΡΩΔΗΠΜΑΡΑΘΩÎΙΟΠΗ ΑÎΤΙΟΧΙΣ ΦΥΛΗ ΑÎΕΘΗ ΚΕΠΕΥÎΟΙΑΣ ΕÎΕΚΕΠΚΑΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΕΣΙΑΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΠΠΑΤΡΙΔΑ That is The Tribe of Antiochus erected this Statue to Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes of Marathon Chief Priest of the Emperours for his Good Will and Munificence to his Country Philostratus mentions some of his Works which are perished long before these times He was made a Roman Consul with Torquatus in the Year of our Lord One hundred forty and three A Monument of which we found at Megara in the Walls of the City near the Church Panagia Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΙΒ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΠΑΤΤΙΚΟΠΥΠΑΤΟΠΕΠΙ ΕΥΕΡΓΑϹΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΥÎΟΙΑϹ ΤΗϹ ΠΡΟϹ ΤΗΠΠΟΛΙΠWhich shews That the Senate and People had erected that Monument to Tiberius Claudius Atticus the Consul for his Munificence and Good Will to the City He married a most vertuous Roman Matron named Regilla in whose Memory he built a cover'd Theater for Musick at Athens And after her Death put his House in Mourning with black Marble of Lesbos to make it an Eternal Monument of his Grief for the loss of her He built also a Temple at his Country-house called Triopnaea near Rome where those Inscriptions were found of which I have spoken and are now to be seen in the Vigne Borghese He died at threescore Years of Age and left two Sons of whom History is silent He gave order to his Freemen to bury him at Marathon the Place of his Birth But the Athenians would have his Body with them and made him be brought thither by some of their young Men burying him in the Stadium Panathenaeum which he had built accompanying his Body to the Grave weeping like Children for the loss of their Parents Advancing a little higher upon the River Ilissus on the left hand The TEMPLE OF THE ILISSIAN MUSES we saw the Foundations of a little round Temple discovered not long since by an Inundation which did a great deal of Mischief to the Athenians throwing down their Country-Houses Trees and Walls and quite destroying all their Gardens in its Passage This probably was the Temple of the Musae Ilissiades being seated upon the Banks of this River according as Pausanias informs us From whence Boreas in a Whirlwind took away the Nymph Orithya whom he found sporting upon these Banks A little further on the right hand of this River is another small Temple since turned into a Church and consecrated to the Memory of St Peter's Crucifixion called Staurosis Petrou or as others speak it Stauromenou Petrou The Floor of which is paved with antient Mosaick Work and the whole Fabrick of white Marble This was undoubtedly the antient Temple of Diana Agrotera or Diana the Huntress whence the Campagne about it beyond the Ilissus was called Agra from Diana's first Hunting there when she came from Delos And those Parts towards the Mountain Hymettùs do yet abound with Hares and Partridges Hard by this is a little Stream falling into the Ilissus which hath its Rise at a Monastery situated on the side of the Mountain Hymettus called by the Greeks Cyriani and by the Turks Cosbashi or Sheep's Head the Fountain of Ilissus being more Eastward The greatest part of the Water of both of them is collected into Pipes under ground and brought to Athens My Opinion is That this is rather the Eridanus than the other which waters the other side of the Plain of Athens not only because Strabo plainly calleth the other Cephisus but also