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A35762 A discription of Tangier, the country and people adjoyning with an account of the person and government of Gayland, the present usurper of the kingdome of Fez, and a short narrative of the proceedings of the English in those parts : whereunto is added, the copy of a letter from the King of Fez to the King of England, for assistance against his rebellious subjects, and another from Grayland to His Sacred Majesty Charles the Second : with divers letters and passages worthy of note / translated from the Spanish into English, and published by authority. Charles I, King of England, 1600-1649.; Charles II, King of England, 1630-1685.; Ghaylān, Aḥmad al-Khāḍir ibn ʻAlī, d. 1673.; Teviot, Andrew Rutherford, Earl of, d. 1664. 1664 (1664) Wing D1151; ESTC R12756 46,144 89

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their Complexion which is Tawny and inclining to black or their Condition as who are bafe in their Original and not very honourable in their present state Morocco hath on the East of it Maloa on the VVest from Tremison the Atlantick Ocean on the South Atlas and on the North Fez. It hath its chief denomination from the chief City of it Morocco it hath large Cities well inhabited as well fortified whereof one contained Anno 1659 when there went out an Enrolment from the Xeriff or chief Governour to Tax every Family by the Poll 150000 Families 486 Mosches or Churches on the Tower of the chiefest whereof or the Mother-Church as they call it there was a Globe that weighed 800 pound in Gold and was valued at 1300000 Duckats The Country is like Ireland rich and fertile and wants onely skilful and laborious inhabitants that may improve it to that rich advantage it is capable of that Country coming up as all Travellers aver to our Saviours proportion of increase some times and places thirty fold some fifty some sixty and some and hundred The Air is much after the temper of England but that there is a South-wind that ever and anon blows and brings along with it an extraordinary and a very hurtful heat like that at Scanderoon did not an Eastern blast bring with it four times a year viz. about the middle of July the latter end of August the beginning of March and most part of May as extraordinary cold that balanceth the former excess to a temper exceeding pleasant and healthful insomuch as it was observed by Mr. Tevillian that traveiled Morocco anno 1633. when King Charles the first of glorious memory upon the humble Request of the King of Fez sent 15 ships to assist him in the Conquest of the Pyrates of Sala who were too hard for him and to his great grief poor man infested all Europe and Asia that were concerned in the Eastern Trade that never any English VVelch or Scotch that were cast upon those coasts died before they were an hundred years old nor any French or Irish that lived there a twelve-month for some years together until Art helped Nature and they understanding the temperature of the Climate and their own constitution were taught those Rules and Prescriptions that corrected the first and assisted the second Of the eleven Mountains of Barbary four are fallen to the share of this part of it 1. Thanebes 2. Gous 3. Phocra 4. Usaletto from which spring up those pleasant and wholesome streams that run like so many Veins of Blood turning and winding through this uneven Ground dispensing their Refreshments and Verdure on all sides with equal kindness to Men to Beasts to the Grass and Corn. But Morocco and Fez are as it were all one as well in the state and condition of the Countrey as in the Government Come we then at last to Fez wherein lieth Tangier the place we have in our Eye Fez hath on the South of it Morocco which is no other then the other half of it on the North the Mediterranean on the East Malon and Tremeson on the West the Atlantick It is thought by that excellent Surveyor Maurus to be as big as Toledo that is almost twice as big as England and something over The Ground is very uneven and unequal no Hills higher then its Mountains no Wilderness wider and looser then its Deserts no Parks more woody than its Forrests no Valleys more Pleasant and Profitable than its Champaigns which what they want in length and breadth they gain in depth as if Nature had heaped one Acre upon two in the matchless fertility thereof Our Age barren of Belief affords not Faith so easily to the Story as this Land afforded Food to their ten hundred thousand men Anno 1569 when an hundred thousand fell at the famous Battel before Tangier The Soil of the Countrey of Armagh in Ireland is so rank of it self that if any compost or artificial improvement be added unto it it turns barren saith my ingenious Author out of fullenness and indignation that men should suspect the native fruitfulness thereof and Fat upon Fat is false Heraldry in Husbandry An English man once dunged two Acres of this Countrey towards Gosel and it 's barren to this day and called by the Inhabitants in the Punick Erapi vosci Dos Gods curse upon Europe Ships when sailing are generally conceived to have one moyety of them invisible under Water and some Countreys in like manner are counted to have their Wealth equally within the Earth and without it But the proportion holds not exactly in Fez whose visible Wealth far transcendeth her concealed Substance And yet we finde some Minerals therein of considerable use and value As 1. Brass and Iron so plentifully that though they have not the Blessing of Asher Thy shooes shall be iron and brass yet have they so competent a store of it that she is no Gentlewoman there that hath not her twenty great Iron Rings about her 2. Salt without which no Meat is savoury to Man no Sacrifice acceptable to God Abimelech sowed Sechem and Abdamelech Gasel with Salt There are two sorts of Salt 1. Fossilis digged 2. Coctilis boyled both here plentifully the first about Hea the last about Heahem and in Lakes near Fez where they set no Salt on their Tables but every one takes a little in his hand 3. Glass whereof the best in the World saith the great Historian of Nature is found on the River Belus and the next to that saith Solinus in Hevalous or as they call it now Hebal 4. Marble the great Ornament of their Cities and Temples 5. Precious Stones in abundance no doubt near Arzilla as we may guess by those few found there by chance by Vasquez in his second Expedition 6. Curious medicinal Waters arising from the sulphurious spring of Mount Anaba 7. For Gold and Silver though to avoid the Invasions of other Nations they say with St. Peter Silver and Gold have I none yet no doubt if the European Industry possessed the place of the Affrican sloth it would finde the Indies in its way thither for Fez the chief City of this Region hath its name from that Gold that is supposed to lie a breeding in the very Bowels of it But the upper fruitfulness of the Soyl makes them the more negligent in digging into the bowels thereof as those need not play beneath board who have all the Game in their own hands For this Countrey hath plenty 1. Of Oyl-Olive so called to difference it from Seed or Train-Oyl hereof there are three kindes or rather degrees whereof 1. the coursest makes lamps which they burn in their Mosques Temples and great Palaces Day and Night 2. A middle sort for fineness used for Meat or rather Sallad with their cold Herbs and colder Pap 3. The finest compounded with Spices for Ointment for Kings Priests and Ladies at their more solemn occasions of Pomp and State of
the waters until he finds a Promontory or an Head of Land hanging out to the Sea this he called presently The Cape of Good Hope yet he fails at once the Love and Grief of that Coast Jo. the 2d seconds him and under the Conduct of Degola 1500. gets in to the Princes Island takes Angola I mean the City so called and with the assistance of Bartholomew Diaz gets in to Quilon Mosambique and Melinde with the King of the last whereof he made a League and with his help and direction found Port Caliculo and that way to the East-Indies but he dyeth too and his Enterprize with him A Vasquez had the honour to begin this discovery and a Vasquez hath the honour likewise to compleat it He therefore Almeda and Albu-quierque finding their way clear to the Indies but not safe through the Streights as long as those Moors Possessed the Maritime Forts they destroy Hamar ruine Bazre take Arzilla and after much expence of Bloud and Treasure under Alphonso the 5th win Tangier hard it was to win this Town which was the very strength of Fez. the Mistress of the Sea the Key of the Inland-Countrey the Sanctuary of all Male-contents and Enemies Sometimes we have 60000 sometimes 80000 sometimes an 10000 yea sometimes 200000 before it Besides the noblest Voluntiers Once there the two Kings of Morocco and Fez. the Princes of Ezhagger Asgarre Benj. Jessen Alcazaer 3000 Nobles 6000 well Horsed Gentry all in Gold and Silver and that we may see the Christians Care was not less to keep than the Infidels were to regain it Sebastian King of Portugall draws out 80000 Foot 20000 Horse to which Stukely a Prince at least in Conceit who had 6000 men given him to reduce Ireland to the obedience of the Pope the King of Spain and was Created by his Holyness to that purpose no less than Marquess of Lempster Earl of Weaford Lord Rosse added his Fortunes and in one day all four Princes viz. Sebastian Stukely Mahomet and Abdemelech fell therewith no less than 126000 men Upon Sebastians death the Spaniards had the place with the Kingdome of Portugall untill the Revolt 1640. when this City with that Kingdome returned to its wonted obedience Tangier say the Inhabitants was by Seddei the Son of Had compassed about with walls of Brass and the roofs of them covered with Gold for the building whereof he exacted great tributes of the Cities of the World believe it who can It s distance from the Streights of Gibralter is 30 miles and from the City of Fez. 150. it hath been alwayes a Civill Famous and well-peopled Town and very stately and sumptuously built the Field thereto belonging not very Fertill or apt for health howbeit not farr off are certain vallies continually watred with Fountains which furnish the said City with all sorts of Fruits in abundance without the City also grows certain Vines albeit upon a sandy soil The Country was well inhabited untill such time as Arzilla was surprised by the Portugals for then the Inhabitants being dismayed with Rumors of Wars took up their bag and baggage and fled unto Fez. Whereupon the King of Portugall his Deputy at Arzilla sent one of his Captains thither who kept it so long under the obedience of the King till the King of Fez. sent one of his Kinsmen also to defend a Region of great Importance near unto the Mountains of Gum●ra being Enemy to the Christians Twenty five years before the Portugal King wan this City he sent forth an Armada against it hoping that the City being destitute of aid while the King of Fez. was in Wars against the Rebels of Mecnase would soon yeild it self But contrary to the Portugals Expectation the Fessan King concluding a suddain Truce with them of Mecnase sent his Counseller with an Army who encountring the Portugals made a great Slaughter of them and among the rest slew their General whom he caused to be carried in a Case or Sack unto new Fez. and there to be set upon an high place where all men might behold him Afterward the King of Portugal sent a new supply who suddenly assailing the City in the night were most of them slain and the residue enforced to flee But that which the Portugal King could not bring to pass with those two Armadas he atchieved at length as is aforesaid with small Forces and little disadvantage In my time Mahomet King of Fez. left no means unattempted for the recovery of this City but so great alwayes was the valour of the Portugals that he had ever ill success These things were done in the Hegeira 917. which was in the year of our Lord 1508. Some 12 miles from Tangier was Casor and Ezzagor in an open and pleasant place over against the Coast of Granada but surprized by the Portugez And notwithstanding many attempts by the King of Fez what with money which is the first offer they alwayes make and what with men to recover it it is utterly lost and ruin'd Within 13 mile of Tangier is Tettuan called so from Tet teguin or one Eye because of the one Eyed Woman that had the command over it under the Goths fourscore and fifteen years It was desolate after the Portugals first Invasion until it was rebuilt by Almandaly who fortified it with a Wall and a Ditch from whence he cruelly molested Septa Casor and Tangier upon the Coasts whereof he made dayly Incursions and Inroads putting all Christians he took to work in his Forts by Day and lye in Sackcloath and Fetters within the deepest Dungeon in the Night Some 40 miles off is Arzitta a fair Town between which and Tangier if that correspondence could be kept which was designed by Pedro Navarro the Trade and Government of that place would lye at our mercy the Portugals having shewed us an example how we might surprize their Forts as they did that of Narangia by a stratagem 1486. take their Isles as they did Getria with a Fleet 1463. demolish their Cities as they did Bafra and Homari Round about Tangier are the wild but fruitful Mountains Chebal Rahina Beni-how Beni-Chestev whither the Moors fled and seated themselves since the Portugez took Tangia or Tangier from whence they made such Invasions even into those Mountains that the Infidels were hardly able to live there till of late by the neglect of the Portugez they have been able to build Forts and strong holds in those high places from whence they infest us at pleasure having two advantages whereof the first is their Warlikeness and the second their Woods 1. This place stands very convenient to secure and advance the Indian commerce as far as those places where there are more riches than were ever yet discovered unto the World 2. It commands the Barbarians within who could never look the Portugez in the Face til of late 2. And all Nations without who must ask its leave to pass to and fro the Streights to the great
mince as they go how they paint their eyes and eye-brows and gild their nails Thus are they attired a man would now know how they are disposed Very idle I told you they are and what usually follows upon that very quarrelsome nothing more usual among them then deadly feuds 1000 against ●000 one Tribe as it were against another which nothing can compose but a forreign Enemy against whom their very hatred unites them more effectually then their love could do among themselves Yet I must say this for them Though they are the worst Enemies yet they are very good Friends i. e. very civil for let a stranger travel amongst them and come into town they will throw Dice who shall entertain him If the Pilgrim saith be will to his Inne thither they flock to him with their gifts and their presents if he is not provided then say they This mans house is yours Their reason for it they will give you Abraham entertained strangers and thereby angels unawares we are so journers as all our fathers were You would ask What is their Religion what is their Language I answer For their Religion in the uttermost parts of it it 's Heathenish and all that we ever observed them do was crossing their foreheads kissing their hands bowing their heads to the Sun and once a year offering a Kid once a month meeting at their Groves for these Heathens think it not fit to circumscribe any thing that hath the name of a god within any compass but that Heaven they say he dwells in But most of them are Turks and though that Countrey hath been most famous of old for the Studies of Mathematicks and Philosophy those great Philosophers Avicenna Averroes those ingenious Poets Terrence Apuleias those holy Fathers Cyprian Tertullian Lactantius Victor Fulgentius and as famous for the excellent Library in Fez wherein there were 4000 Volumes of History 2000 of Philosophy 3000 of Astronomy Geography and other Mathematicks that were more worth then all the Libraries in the world which that Tyrant made up of ignorance and fury Maleche Shegge destroyed all but two Books whereof the one was an ancient Book of the Mysteries of Mahomets Religion and Government and the other the State of Europe yet now is it but the seat of Barbarism and the habitation of gross ignorance in every thing but as you may read more anon in Mechanicks The Bishop of Dunkelden thanked God he knew not a Letter either in the Old Testament or the New but that he had his Proless and Ladies Psalter by heart The very Priest here pretendeth to no more skill then so much Chyrurgery as may serve him to circumcise a Childe and so much Divinity as may serve him to read his Alcoran or Testament It was dangerous to understand Greek and Heresie to profess Hebrew in this Land some two hundred years ago it may cost a man his life there to be wise above the age for that they call conjuring against the King But Cities are the Maps of Countries and Metropolis of Kingdomes as therefore he who would look into the nature of England had best take a Survey of London so he that would be satisfied about this Kingdome needs no more but look into Fez and Tituan whose Descriptions follow Of the Cities FEZ and TITUAN Of the Innes and Mills of Fez. THe Innes of this City are three stories high and contain an hundred and twenty or more Chambers a piece and are almost unparallelled for greatness of Buildings Herein also are Mills in four hundred places at least every Mill standeth in a large Room upon some strong Pillar or Post like unto our Horse-Mills A Description of the Occupations the Shops and the Market EAch Trade and Occupation hath a peculiar place allotted thereto the principal whereof are next unto the great Temple Then follow the Butchers Shambles next the Course-cloath-market afterwards the Shops of them that scowre Armours next unto them the Fishmongers then follow them that make hard Reed-Coops and Cages for Fowles Then the Shops of them that sell liquid Sope the Shops of them that sell Meal albeit they are diversly dispersed throughout the whole City Next are Seed-grain-sellers next to them are the ten Shops that sell straw then the Markers where thred and hemp use to be sold Next to the smoaky Place in the West part which stretcheth from the Temple to that Gate that leadeth unto Mecnase their habitations directly stand that make Leather-tankards to draw water out of Wells Unto these adjoyn such as make Wicker Vessels next to them are the Taylors shops then the Leather-shield-makers then the twenty shops of the Laundresses or Washers Next unto them are those that make trees for Sadles who dwell likewise in great number Eastward right in the way by the Colledge founded by King Abuhinam Next unto them are those that work Stirrops Spurs and Bridles From thence you may go into the streets of Sadlers then follow the long shops of them that make Pikes and Launces all the which shops begin at the great Temple Next standeth a Rock or Mound having two Walks thereupon the one whereof leadeth to the East-gate and the other to one of the Kings Palaces The Station or Burse of Merchants THis Burse being walled round about hath twelve Gates and before every Gate an Iron Chain which Burse is divided into twelve several Wards or Parts two whereof are allotted unto such shooe-makers as make shooes onely for Noblemen and Gentlemen two also to Silk-merchants or Haberdashers that sell Ribbons Garters Scarffs and such other like Ornaments Then follow those that make Womens Girdles of course VVool. Next unto these are such as sell VVoollen and Linen-cloth brought out of Europe Then may you come to them that sell Mats Matresses Cushions and other things made of Leather Next adjoyneth the Customers Office Next of all dwell the Taylors then the Linen-Drapers who are accounted the richest Merchants in all Fez. Next are VVoollen Garments to be sold Last of all is that place where they sell wrought shirts towels and other embroydered works as also where Carpets Beds and Blankets are to be sold The aforesaid Burse or Station of Merchants was in times past called Caesaria according to the Name of that renowned Conquerour Julius Caesar the reason whereof some affirm to be because all the Cities of Barbary in those days were first subject to the Romans and then to the Goths Next unto the said Burse on the North-side in a straight Lane stand an hundred and fifty Grocers and Apothecaries shops which are fortified on both sides with strong Gates The Physitians houses adjoyn for the most part unto the Apothecaries Then the Artificers that make Combs of Box and other Wood. Eastward of the Apothecaries dwell the Needle-makers Then follow those that turn Ivory Unto them adjoyn such as sell Meal Sope and Brooms whereof some are dispersed in other places of the City Amongst the Cotten-Merchants are certain that sell
Ornaments for Tents and Beds Next of all stand the Fowlers Then come you to the shops of those that sell Cords and Ropes of Hemp and then to such as make high Cork-slippers for Noblemen and Gentlemen to walk the streets in when it is fowl weather Unto these adjoyn the ten shops of Spanish Moores which make Cross-Bows as also those that make Brooms of a certain wild Palm-tree Next unto them are Smiths that make Nayls and Coopers that make certain great Vessels in form of a Bucket having Corn-measures to sell also Then follow Wool-Chapmen then Langols or Wyth-makers Next of all are the Braziers then such as make Weights and Measures and those likewise that make Instruments to card Wool or Flax. At length you descend into a long street where men of divers Occupations dwell together and here the West part of the City endeth which in times past was a City by its self and was built after the City on the West-side of the River A description of the second part of Fez. THe second part of Fez is situated Eastward and is beautified with most stately Palaces Temples Houses and Colledges albeit there are not so many Trades and Occupations as in the part before described yet are there many especially of the meaner sort but notwithstanding here are thirty shops of Grocers Here also are more then six hundred clear Fountains walled round about and most charily kept every one of which is severally conveyed by certain Pipes unto each House Temple Colledge and Hospital The South part of East Fez is almost half destitute of Inhabitants howbeit the Gardens abound with Fruits and Flowers of all sorts Westward that is toward the Kings Palace standeth a Castle built by a King of the Lutune Family resembling in bigness a whole Town within this Castle stands a Noble Temple and a certain great Prison for Captives supported with many Pillars By this Castle runneth a certain River very commodious for the Governour Of the Magistrates the Administration of Justice and of the Apparel used in Fez. IN Fez there are four sorts of Magistrates one of the Canon Law the other of the Civil Law the third of Marriages and Divorcements the next an Advocate to whom they appeal A Malefactor they proceed against by leading him naked about the streets with an iron chain about his neck after he hath received an hundred or two hundred stripes before the Governour a Sergeant going along and declaring his faults and at length is carried into prison back again Sometimes many Prisoners are thus chained together for each of which the Governour receiveth one Duckat and one fourth part and likewise he demands certain duties at their first enterance into the Goal and amongst his other living he gathereth out of a Mountain seven thousand Duckats of yearly Revenues so that when occasion serveth he is to finde the King of Fez three hundred Horses and to give them their pay The Canon-Lawyers live according to Mahomet's Law onely by their reading of Lectures and Priesthood In this City are four Sergeants who receive for stipend some fee of every Malefactor that they lead about in chains That one onely that gathereth Customs and Tributes about the City dayly payeth to the Kings use thirty Duckats Very strict are they that nothing comes into the City by any means before some Tribute be paid which is paid double of him that is caught in a deceit The set order or proportion of their Duckats is to pay two Duckats for the worth of a hundred for Onyx-stones one fourth part but for Wood Corn Oxen and Hens they give nothing at all Though at the entrance into the City they pay nothing for Rams yet at the shambles they give two Liardos a piece and to the Governour of the shambles one which Governour with his two men is careful to see that the Bread be weight if not the Baker is led about with contempt and beaten with cudgels Decently and civilly attired they are wearing in the Spring-time Garments made of outlandish cloth over which shirts they wear a narrow and half-sleev'd Cassock or Jacket whereupon they wear a certain wide Garment close before on the Brest They wear thin Caps covered with a certain Skarff which being twice wreathed about their head hangeth by a knot They wear neither Hose nor Breeches but in the Spring-time when they ride a Journey they put on Boots The poorer sort have onely a Cassock with a Mantle over that and a course Cap the Doctors and Gentlemen in a wide-sleev'd Garment the common sort in a kind of a course white cloth And so all according to their state and ability The Inhabitants of Fez eat thrice a day but nastily and filthily their Tables low and dirty their fingers their spoons and knives the ground their seats they never drink before they have done eating and then a good draught of cold water The manner of solemnizing Marriages THe Bride and Bridegroom go together to Church accompanied with their Parents and Kinsfolks and two Witnesses of the Covenants and Dowry which being done the present Guests are invited to two Banquets the one on the Bridegroom's cost the other upon the Bride's Fathers who though he promiseth but thirty Duckats onely for a Dowry yet will he sometimes bestow every way two or three hundred Duckats besides which is accounted a point of Liberality The Bridegroom causeth his Bride to be carried home in a Cage eight square accompanied with his Parents and Kinsfolks with Musick and Torches the Bridegrooms Kinsfolk going before and the Bride following after and going unto the great Market-place and passing by the Temple his Father-in-law takes his leave of the Bridegroom The Father Brother Uncle of the Bride lead her unto the Chamber-door and there deliver her with one consent unto the Mother of the Bridegroom who as soon as she is entered toucheth her foot with his and forthwith they depart unto a several Room by themselves where she is deflowred and the purity of her Virginity afore that time is declared with a Napkin stained in blood carried in hand about which if she be not found the Marriage is frustrated and she with great disgrace turned home to her Parents But at a compleat Marriage there are three Banquets the one for men the other for women the third seven days after for all her Friends Furthermore At the Bridegrooms Fathers there are two Feasts the one the night before which is spent in Musick and Dancing the other the day after at her brave dressing by a company of Women These and many more Ceremonies do they use at a Maids Marriage but a Widows is concluded with less a do They make also great Feasts and Jollities at the circumcision of their Males which is upon the seventh day after their Birth but at the Birth of a Daughter they shew not so much alacrity Of their Rites observed upon Festival Days and their manner of Mourning for their Dead UPon Christmas they