any expedition set out either by sea or land it served in proportion to five hides It hath beene likewise from time to time much afflicted once spoiled and sore shaken by the furious outrages of the Danes in the yeare of our redemption 875. but most grievously by Suen the Dane in the yeare 1003. at which time by the treacherie of one Hugh a Norman Governor of the citie it was raced and ruined along from the East gate to the West And scarcely began it to flourish againe when William the Conquerour most straightly beleaguered it when the Citizens in the meane while thought it not sufficient to shut their gates against him but malapartly let flie taunts and flouts at him but when a piece of their wall fell downe by the speciall hand of God as the Historians of that age report they yielded immediatly thereupon At which time as we find in the said survey-booke of his The King had in this Citie three hundred houses it paid fifteene pounds by the yeare and fortie houses were destroyed after that the King came into England After this it was thrice besieged and yet it easily avoided all First by Hugh Courtney Earle of Denshire in that civill warre betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke then by Perkin Warbecke that imaginarie counterfeit and pretended Prince who being a young man of a very base condition faining himselfe to be Richard Duke of Yorke the second sonne of King Edward the Fourth stirred up dangerous stirres against Henrie the Seventh thirdly by seditious Rebels of Cornwall in the yeare of Christ 1549 at which time the Citizens most grievously pinched though they were with scarcitie of all things continued neverthelesse in their faith and allegeance untill that Iohn Lord Russell raised the siege and delivered them But Excester received not so great damage at these enemies hands as it did by certaine dammes which they call Weares that Edward Courtney Earle of Denshire taking high displeasure against the Citizens made in the river Ex which stop the passage so that no vessell can come up to the Citie but since that time all merchandize is carried by land from Topesham three miles off And albeit it hath beene decreed by Act of Parliament to take away these Weares yet they continue there still Hereupon the little Towne adjoyning is call Weare being aforetime named Heneaton which was sometime the possession of Augustine de Baa from whom in right of inheritance it descended to Iohn Holland who in his signet which my selfe have seene bare a Lion rampant gardant among flowers de Lys. The civill government of this Citie is in the power of foure and twenty persons out of whom there is from yeare to yeare a Major elected who with foure Bailiffes ruleth heere the State As touching the Geographicall description of this place the old tables of Oxford have set downe the longitude thereof to bee nineteene degrees and eleven scruples the latitude fiftie degrees and fortie scruples or minutes This Citie that I may not omit so much hath had three Dukes For Richard the Second of that name King of England created Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon and his brother by the mothers side the first Duke of Excester whom Henrie the Fourth deposed from this dignitie and left unto him the name onely of Earle of Huntingdon and soone after for conspiracie against the King he lost both it and his life by the hatchet Some few yeares after Henry the Fifth set in his place Thomas Beaufort of the house of Lancaster and Earle of Dorset a right noble and worthy warriour When he was dead leaving no issue behind him John Holland sonne of that aforesaid John as heire unto his brother Richard who died without children and to his father both being restored to his bloud by the favour and bounty of King Henry the Sixth recovered his fathers honor and left the same to Henry his sonne who so long as the Lancastrians stood upright flourished in very much honor but afterwards when the family of Yorke was a float and had rule of all gave an example to teach men how ill trusting it is to great Fortunes For this was that same Henry Duke of Excester who albeit he had wedded King Edward the Fourth his sister was driven to such miserie that he was seene all tottered torne and barefooted to begge for his living in the Low countries And in the end after Barnet field fought wherein he bare himselfe valiantly against Edward the Fourth was no more seene untill his dead bodie as if he had perished by Shipwracke was cast upon the shore of Kent A good while after this Henry Courtney Earle of Denshire the sonne of Katharine daughter to King Edward the Fourth was advanced to the honour of Marquesse of Excester by Henry the Eighth and designed heire apparant But this Marquesse as well as the first Duke was by his high parentage cast into a great tempest of troubles wherein as a man subject to suspitions and desirous of a change in the State he was quickly overthrowne And among other matters because he had with money and counsell assisted Reginald Poole afterwards Cardinall then a fugitive practising with the Emperour and the Pope against his owne Country and the King who had now abrogated the Popes authoritie he was judicially arraigned and being condemned with some others lost his head But now of late by the favour of King Iames Thomas Cecill Lord Burleigh enjoyeth the title of Earle of Excester a right good man and the worthy sonne of so excellent a father being the eldest sonne of William Cecill Lord Burleigh high Treasurer of England whose wisedome for a long time was the support of peace and Englands happy quietnesse From Excester going to the very mouth of the River I find no monument of Antiquitie but Exminster sometime called Exanminster bequeathed by King Elfred to his younger sonne and Pouderham Castle built by Isabell de Ripariis the seat long time of that most noble family of the Courtneys Knights who being lineally descended from the stocke of the Earles of Denshire and allied by affinitie to most honorable houses flourish still at this day most worthy of their descent from so high Ancestors Under Pouderham Ken a pretty brooke entreth into Ex which riseth neere Holcombe where in a Parke is a faire place built by Sir Thomas Denis whose family fetcheth their first off-spring and surname from the Danes and were anciently written Le Dan Denis by which name the Cornish called the Danes But lower upon the very mouth of the river on the other banke side as the name it selfe doth testifie standeth Exanmouth knowne by nothing else but the name and for that some fishermen dwelt therein More Eastward Otterey that is The River of Otters or River-Dogs which we call Otters as may appeare by the signification of the word falleth into the sea which runneth hard under
which Elfgiva a most godly and devout Lady wife to Edmund that was King Aelfrids nephews sonne had erected and of ten parish Churches besides or there about But most famous in this place by occasion of a prety fable that our Historians doe report of Aquila prophecying here of the conversion or change of the Britaines Empire For some will have the bird Aquila that is an Eagle others a man so named to have foretold here that the British Empire after the Saxons and Normans should returne againe to the ancient Britaines and these men affirme and maintaine that this place is of greater antiquitie than Saturne himselfe whereas most certaine it is that it was first built by Alfred For the Historiographer of Malmesbury hath recorded that in his daies there was an old stone translated from the ruines of the wall into the Chapter house of the Names which had this Inscription ANNO DOMINICAE INCARNATIONIS AELFREDVS REX FECIT HANC VRBEM DCCC.LXXX REGNI SVI VIII That is In the yeare of the incarnation of our Lord King Aelfred built this Citie 880. of his raigne the eighth This Inscription I have the more willingly put down here for proofe of the Truth because in all the copies which I have seen it is wanting save only in that in the Librarie of the late Lord Burghley high Treasurer of England and I have beene informed that it continued there untill the time of King Henry the Eighth Yet the Inhabitants have a tradition that an old Citie stood upon the place which is called the Castle-Greene and by some Bolt-bury now a faire plaine so scited that as of one side it joyneth to the Towne so of another it is a strange sight to looke downe to the vale under it whereby in the West end of the old Chappell of S. Iohn as I heare now standeth a Roman Inscription reversed From thence the Stoure by Marnhill of which place L. Henry Howard brother of Thomas last Duke of Norfolke received of King Iames the title of Baron Howard of Mernhill before that he was created Earle of Northampton makes speed to Stourminster which is as much to say as the Monasterie or Minster upon Stoure A small towne this is standing somewhat with the lowest from which there is a stone bridge built reaching to Newton Castle where offreth it selfe to be seene a loftie mount cast up as they say to that heighth with great labour but of the Castle there remaineth nothing at all but onely the bare name Of these I have nothing of more antiquitie to say than this that King Aelfred bequeathed Stoureminster to a younger sonne of his Hard by at Silleston there rise two good great hilles the one named Hameldon the other Hodde and both of them fortified with a three fold Ditch and rampier And not far from thence but the very place I cannot precisely set downe stood Okeford the Capitall honour of the Baronie of Robert the sonne of Pagan commonly named Fitz-Payne who married the daughter of Guido de Brient who also in this West part enjoyed the honor of a Baron under King Edward the Third but for default of heire males of those Fitz-Paynes it came to the Poynings Barons likewise in those daies and at length by a daughter and heire of Poynings in the raigne of Henry the Sixth these Barons titles Fitz-Payne Brient and Poinings were conjoyned in the Percies Earles of Northumberland Howbeit within our fathers remembrance through the favour of King Henry the Eighth the title of Baron Poinings reflourished in Sir Thomas Poinings sonne of Sir Edward Poinings a martiall man and fruitfull father of much base brood but with him it soone vanished away as bastardly slips seldome take deepe root From hence Stoure passeth on by Brienston that is Brients towne where the Rogerses dwell an ancient family of Knights degree to Market Blandford which since in our time it chanced to be burnt downe arose againe built more elegantly and is better peopled with Inhabitants Then Stoure from thence by Tarrent where Richard Poer Bishop of Sarisbury founded a Cell for Virgins Votaries speedeth himselfe apace to that most ancient towne VINDOGLADIA where Antoninus maketh mention Which in the Saxons tongue is called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly Winburne and of the Monasterie Wenburnminster and from hence to Dorcester are counted sixteene miles just so many as the Emperour Antonine in his Itinerarie reckoneth betweene Vindogladia and Durnovaria The name as I conjecture it taketh of the scituation because it is seated betweene two rivers for so in the British tongue Windugledy soundeth as much as betweene two Swords now that the Britaines by a peculiar phrase of their owne terme rivers Swords it appeareth by Aberdugledian the British name of Milford Haven which is as much to say as the mouth of two rivers for that two rivers named with them Gledian that is Swords runne into it The latter name also of this town seemeth to be set from Rivers For Winburn is compounded of Vin a parcell of the old name and the Saxon word Burne which among them betokeneth a river and by the addition thereof the Saxons were wont to name places standing upon rivers The very town it selfe is seated upon the piece of an hill large in compasse replenished with Inhabitants but few faire buildings In the Saxons time right famous it was and much frequented for no other cause I believe but for that in those daies there remained divers tokens of the Romans majestie In the yeare 713. Cuthburga sister to Ina King of the West-Saxons when upon a loathing wearinesse of wedlocke she had sued out a Divorce from her owne husband King of Northumberland built heere a Nunnerie which yeilded unto the injurie of time and fallen to decay there arose in the very place thereof a new Church with a faire Vault beneath under the quier and an high spire besides the Toure-steeple In which were placed Prebendaries in liew of those Nuns Over whom in our fathers daies Reginal Pole was Deane who afterwards being Cardinal and Archbishop of Canteburie over and above the nobilitie of his house for descended he was of the Royall bloud became highly renowned for pietie wisedome and eloquence King Etheldred a right good and vertuous Prince brother of Aelfred slaine in the battell at Wittingham against the Danes lieth enterred in this Church upon whose Tombe which not long since hath beene repaired this new Inscription is to be read IN HOC LOCO QVIESCIT CORPVS S. ETHELDREDI REGIS WEST SAXONVM MARTYRIS QVI ANNO DOMINI DCCC LXXII XXIII APRILIS PER MANVS DANORVM PAGANORVM OCCVBVIT That is Heere lieth at rest the bodie of Etheldred King of the West-Saxons Martyr who died in the yeare of our Lord 872. the 23. of April by the hands of the Danes Infidels Neere unto whom lieth entombed Gertrude Blunt Marchionesse of Excester daughter to William Lord Montjoy and
South gates Ophiuchus enwrapped with a serpent two mens heads with curled haire within the cope of the wall a hare running and annexed thereto upon a stone in letters standing overthwart VLIA ILIA A naked man laying hand as it were upon a souldier within the battlement also of the wall two lying along kissing and clipping one another a footeman with a sword brandishing and bearing out his shield a footeman with a speare and upon a stone with letters standing overthwart III. VSA. IS VXSC. And Medusaes head with haires all Snakes Along the said river of Avon which now is heere the bound between this shire and Glocestershire upon the banke Westward we have a sight of Cainsham so name of one Keina a most devout and holy British virgine who as the credulous age before-time perswaded many transformed serpents into stones because there be found there in Stone quarries such strange workes of nature when she is disposed to disport herselfe For I have seene a stone brought from hence resembling a serpent winding round in manner of a wreath the head whereof being somewhat unperfect bare up in the Circumference thereof and the end of the taile tooke up the centre within But most of these are headlesse In the fields neere adjoyning and other places beside is found Percepier an hearbe peculiar unto England Bitter it is in taste and hath a biting sharpenesse withall it never groweth above a span high and commeth up all the yeare long of it selfe small leavy flowers of a greenish hew it beares without any stalke at all Which herbe mightily and speedily provoketh urine and of it the distilled water serveth for great use as P. Paena in his Animadversions or Commentaries of Plants hath noted Scarce five miles from this place the river Avon passeth through the midst of Bristow in Welch-British Caer oder Nant Badon that is The Citie Oder in the Vale of Badon In the Catalogue of ancient Cities Caer Brito In Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is A bright or shining place But such as have called it Venta Belgarum have deceived both themselves and others This Citie standing partly in Somerset and partly in Glocester-shires is not to be reputed belonging either to this or that having Magistrates of the owne by it selfe and being of it selfe entire and a County incorporate Scituate it is somewhat high betweene Avon and the little river Frome sufficiently defended with rivers and fortifications together For environed it was sometime with a double wall So faire to behold by reason of buildings as well publike as private that it is fully correspondent to the name of Bright stow With common Sewes or Sinks they call them Goutes so made to run under the ground for the conveiance and washing away of all filth that for cleanlinesse and holesomnesse a man would not desire more whereupon there is no use heere of carts so well furnished with all things necessarie for a mans life so populous and well inhabited withall that next after London and Yorke it may of all Cities in England justly challenge the chiefe place For the mutuall entercourse of trafficke and the commodious haven which admitteth in ships under saile into the very bosome of the Citie hath drawne people of many countries thither For the Avon so often as the Moone declineth downeward from the meridian point and passeth by the opposite line unto it so swelleth with the tide from the Ocean that it raiseth up the ships there riding and lying in the oze 11. or 12. elles afloat in water And the Citizens themselves are rich Merchants and trafficke all over Europe yea and make Voyages at sea so farre as into the most remote parts of America But when and by whom it was built it is hard to say Old it seemeth not to be for as much as in all those spoiles and sackages that the Danes made there is no mention of it in our Historians And verily mine opinion is that it first grew up to some name when the English-Saxons Empire was much declining seeing that it is no where named before the yeare of our Lord 1063 when Harold as Florentinus of Worcester writeth embarqued himselfe and his armie and put to sea from Bristow to Wales In the first yeares of the Normans Berton a mannor adjoyning And Bristow paid unto the King as we find in the booke of Domesday 110. markes of silver and the Burgers said that Bishop G. hath 33. markes and one marke of Gold After this Robert Bishop of Constance that plotted seditious practises against King William Rufus chose it for the seate-towne of the whole warre fortified it being then but a small Citie with that inner wall as I take it which at this day is in part standing But a few yeares after the circuit thereof was every way enlarged For on the South Radcliffe wherein there stood some small houses under the Citie side is by a stone bridge with houses on each hand built upon it more like a streete than a bridge joyned to the Citie enclosed within a wall and the Inhabitants thereof enfranchised Citizens yea hospitals in every quarter thereof for the benefit of poore people and faire Parish-Churches to the glorie of God were erected The most beautifull of all which by farre is S. Maries of Radcliffe without the walles into which there is a stately ascent upon many staires so large withall so finely and curiously wrought with an arched roofe over head of stone artificially embowed a steeple also of an exceeding height that all the Parish-Churches in England which hetherto I have seene in my judgement it surpasseth many degrees In it William Cannings the founder hath two faire monuments upon the one lieth his image portraied in an Aldermans roabe For five times he had beene Major of this Citie upon the other his image likewise in sacerdotall habite for that in this old age hee tooke the orders of priesthood and was Deane of that colledge which himselfe instituted at Westburie There is hard by another Church also which they call the Temple the lanterne or tower whereof when the bell rings shaketh to and fro so as it hath cloven and divided it selfe from the rest of the building and made such a chinke from the bottome to the top as it gapeth the bredth of three fingers and both shutteth and openeth whensoever the bell is rung And heere I must not overpasse in silence S. Stephens Church the tower steeple whereof being of a mightie heighth one Shipward alias Barstable a Citizen and Merchant within the memorie of our grandfathers right sumptuously and artificially built From the East-side also the North augmented it was with a number of edifices enclosed within a wall and fenced with the river Frome which having runne by the wall side gently falleth into the Avon and yieldeth a dainty harbour for ships with a wharfe convenient for the shipping and unlading of Merchandise in and out they call it the Kay
But after that they were thrust out by King Henry the Eight there were substituted for them a Deane sixe Prebendaries and others The Church being thus built and an Episcopall See there placed the Towne now as saith William of Malmesbury became of great name for frequent trade of Merchants and resort of people And in the 17. yeare of King Stephen as we reade in old Annals Norwich was founded a new became a well peopled City and was made a Corporation And most certaine it is out of the kings Records that king Stephen granted it unto his sonne William for his Appennage as they terme it or inheritance Out of whose hands King Henry the Second shortly after wrested it by composition and kept it for himselfe And albeit his Sonne Henry called the younger King when he aspired ambitiously to the kingdome had made a large promise thereof unto Hugh Bigod Earle of Norfolke whom hee had drawne to side with him At which time Bigod taking part with the young King who could not containe his hope of the Kingdome within the bounds of duty and equity most grievously afflicted and oppressed this City and then as it is thought reedified that Castle standing within the very City upon an high hill neere unto the Cathedrall Church which being compassed with a ditch of a wonderfull depth seemed in those daies impregnable Which notwithstanding Lewis the French-man with whom the seditious Barons of England combined against King John won it easily by Siege Now that Bigod reedified this Castle I verily beleeve because I have seen Lions Saliant engraven there in a Stone after the same forme that the Bigods used in times past in their Seales of whom also there was one that in his Seale used a Crosse. These things fell out in the first age we may say of Norwich But in the age next ensuing it encreased mightily and flourished by reason that the Citizens grew to be passing wealthy who exhibited a supplication in the Parliament house unto King Edward the First that they might be permitted to wall their City about which they afterwards performed to the exceeding great strengthning and honor thereof They obtained moreover of King Richard the Second that the Worsted made there might be transported and in the yeare 1403. king Henry the fourth granted that they might choose every yeare a Major in stead of their Bailiffes which before were the principall Magistrates They built likewise a passing faire Towne-house in the very middest of the City neere unto the Mercat-place which on certaine set dayes is furnished exceeding well with all things necessary for mans life And verily much beholden it is unto the Netherlanders that being weary of Duke de Alba his cruelty and hating the bloudy Inquisition repaired hither in great numbers and first brought in the making and trade of saies baies and other stuffes now much in use But why should I stand long upon these things when as Alexander Nevill a Gentleman well borne and very learned hath notably described all these matters together with the story of their Bishops the orderly succession of their Magistrates and the furious outrage of that most villanous Rebell Keâ— against this City This only will I adde that in the yeare 1583. the Citizens conveighed water out of the River through pipes by an artificiall Instrument or water-forcer up into the highest places of the City Heere I may justly commence an action both against Polydor Virgill an Italian and also against Angelus Capellus a Frenchman and put them to their answer before the Tribunal of venerable Antiquity why they have avouched that the ancient ORDOVICES who be seated as it were in another world inhabited this Norwich I would have the same mery action also against our Country man D. Caius but that I know for certaine that the good old man right learned though he were was blinded in this point with the naturall love of this his own native Country Neither have I more to say of Norwich unlesse it may please you to runne over these Verses of Master Iohn Ionston a Scottish-Britan written of the same Vrbs speciosa situ nitidis pulcherrima tectis Grata peregrinis delitiosa suis. Bellorum sedes trepido turbante tumultu Tristia Neustriaco sub duce damna tulit Victis dissidijs postquam caput ardua coelo Extulit immensis crevit opima opibus Cultus vincit opes cultum gratia rerum Quam benè si luxus non comitetur opes Omnia sic adeò sola haec sibi sufficit ut si Fo rs regno desit haec caput esse queat A City seated daintily most faire built she is knowne Pleasing and kinde to Strangers all delightfull to her owne The seat of warre whiles civill sturs and tumults yet remain'd In William the Normans dayes she grievous losse sustain'd These broiles and jarres once past when as her head aloft againe She bare in richnesse infinite and wealth she grew amaine Her Port exceeds that wealth and things all superfine this Port How happy were it if excesse with such wealth did not sort So all sufficient in her selfe and so complete is shee That if neede were of all the Realme the Mistresse shee might bee From Norwich the River Yare having entertained other beackes and brookes as guests yet all under his owne name passeth on still with many winding crookes very full of the fishes called Ruffes which name because in English it soundeth like to Rough D. Caius named it aptly in Latine Aspredo that is Rough. For it is all the body over rough and hath very sharpe and pricky finnes it delighteth in sandy places for shape and bignesse like unto a Perch in colour browne and duskish above but palish yellow beneath marked by the chawes with a double course of half-circles the eye for the upper halfe of it of a darke browne for the nether somewhat yellowish like delayed gold the ball and sight thereof blacke This speciall marke by it selfe it hath that there is a line goeth along the backe and fastened to the body as it were with an overthwart thred all to bespotted ouer the taile and fins with blacke speckes which finnes when the fish is angry stand up and bristle stiffe and strong but when the anger is allayed they fall flat againe The meat of this Ruffe resembleth that of the Perch much commended for holsomnesse and for eating tender and short When Yâ—re is gone past Claxton where there stands a Castlet built round which Sir Thomas Gawdy knight Justice of the Common Pleas of late repaired it receiveth a brooke which passeth by nothing memorable but Halles-hall and that only memorable for his ancient Owner Sir Iames Hobart Atturney Generall and of the Privie Counsell to King Henry the Seventh by him dubbed Knight at such time as he created Henry his sonne Prince of Wales who by building from the ground the faire Church at Loddon being his Parish Church Saint Olaves bridge over
that in our Britaine Tallhin Glan-lhin and Lhinlithquo are townes by lakes sides This Citie it selfe being large well inhabited and frequented standeth upon the side of an hill where Witham bendeth his course Eastward and being divided with three small chanels watereth the lower part of the Citie That the ancient LINDUM of the Britans stood on the very top of the hill which had a very hard ascent up to it and reached out beyond the gate called Newport the expresse tokens of a rampier and deepe ditches which are yet very evident doe plainely shew In this City Vortimer that warlike Britan who many a time discomfited the Saxons and put them to flight ended his daies and was heere contrary to his owne commandement buried For he was in a full and assured hope perswaded that if he were enterred in the sea shore his very ghost was able to protect the Britans from the Saxons as writeth Ninius the disciple of Elvodugus But the English Saxons after they had rased this old Lindum first possessed themselves of the South side of the hill at the foot whereof they built as it seemeth the gate yet standing compiled of vast stones and with the ruines of that more ancient Towne fortified it Afterwards they went downe lower to the river side built in a place that was called Wickanford and walled it about on that side which is not fensed by the River At which time as saith Bede Paulinus preached the Word of God unto the Province of Lindsey and first of all converted unto the Lord the Governour or Provost of Lincolne City whose name was Blecca with his family In which very City hee built also a Church of goodly stone worke the roofe whereof being either fallen for want of repaire or cast downe by the violent hand of enemies the walles are seene standing to this day After this the Danes wonne it by assault once or twice First those troupes of spoiling mates out of whose hands King Edmund Ironside wrested it by force then Canutus from whom Aetheldred regained it when upon his returne out of Normandy he valiantly forced Canutus to abandon the towne and beyond all hope recovered England which before was lost In the Raigne of Edward the Confessour there were in it as Domesday booke recordeth a thousand and seventy Mansions with lodgings to give entertainment and twelve Lage men having Sac and Soc. But in the Normans time as saith William of Malmesbury It was one of the best peopled Cities of England and a place of traffique and merchandise for all commers by sea and land and as the same Domesday booke saith there were at that time counted and taxed in this City 900. Burgesses and many Mansions were laied waste 166. for the Castle and other 74. without the precinct of the Castle not through the oppression of the Sheriffe and his Ministers but by reason of mishap poverty and casualty by fire The said King William the Conqueror for the strengthning of it and terrour of the Citizens raised a passing large and strong Castle upon the brow of the hill and almost at the very same time Remigius Bishop of Dorchester for to give credit and ornament thereto translated hither his Episcopall seat from Dorchester which was in the most remote corner of his Dioecesse and a small Towne And when by this time that Church which Paulinus had built was quite gone to decay the same Remigius having purchased certaine houses with grounds lying unto them in the very highest place of the City neere unto the Castle as Henry of Huntingdon saith mounting up aloft with high and stately towres built in a strong place a strong Church in a faire plot a faire Church and dedicated it to the Virgin of Virgins notwithstanding the Archbishop of Yorke was enraged thereat who chalenged to himselfe the propriety of the soile and in it ordained 44. Prebendaries Which Church afterwards being sorely defaced with fire as he saith Alexander that most bountiful Bishop of Lincolne repaired with skilfull artificiall workemanship Of whom William of Malmesbury reporteth because for his little low stature hee was a dwarfe among men his minde laboured to rise aloft and shew it selfe to the world with outward workes And as concerning his bounty a Poet of that time among other things wrote thus Qui dare festinans gratis ne danda rogentur Quod nondum dederat nondum se credit habere Who hastening frankly for to give for feare that folke should crave He never thought that he had that which yet he never gave Besides these two Bishops already mentioned Robert Bloet who sat there before Alexander R. de Beaumeis Hugh a Burgundian and their Successours by little and little brought this Church which could not bee one Bishops worke to the stately magnificence that now it carryeth Certes as it is built it is all throughout not onely most sumptuous but also passing beautifull and that with rare and singular workmanship but especially that fore-front at the West end which in a sort ravisheth and allureth the eyes of all that come toward it In this Church although there bee divers Monuments of Bishops and others yet these onely seeme memorable That of Copper wherein the bowels of that right noble and vertuous Queene Aeleonor wife to King Edward the First are bestowed who died at Hardby in this Shire as also these following wherein lye interred Sir Nicolas Cantlow one or two of the Family of Burghersh Lady Catherine Swinford the third wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster and mother of the house of Somerset with whom lyeth buryed Joan her daughter second wife to Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmerland who enriched her husband with many happy children The Bishops Diocesse of Lincolne not content with those streit limits wherewith the Bishops of Sidnacester who had Episcopall jurisdiction over this shire contented themselves in the Primitive Church of the English Nation conteined under it so many countries as that the greatnesse thereof was burdenous unto it And although King Henry the Second tooke out of it the Province of Ely and King Henry the Eighth the Bishopricks of Peterbourgh and of Oxford yet still at this day it is counted the greatest Diocesse by farre of all England both for jurisdiction and number of shires and the Bishop hath in his Diocesse one thousand two hundred forty seven Parish Churches Many and great Bishops since Remigius his time have governed this See whom to reckon up is no part of my purpose For I will not insist either upon Robert Bloet from whom King William Rufus wrung 50000. pounds for securing his title in the very City of Lincolne it selfe which was found defective nor upon that prodigall and profuse Alexander who in exceeding stately buildings was so excessively delighted ne yet upon Hugh the Burgundian Canonized a Saint whose corps King John with his Nobles and friends about him to performe as mine author saith a dutifull service to God and that holy
fourth to whose Treatise of Tenures the students of our Common Law are no lesse beholden than the Civilians to Iustinians Institutes But to returne This Salwarp which we speake of runneth downe by Bromesgrove a mercate towne not of the meanest reckoning and not far from Grafton the seat of a yonger family of the Talbots since King Henry the Seventh gave it to Sir Gilbert Talbot a yonger sonne of John the second Earle of Shrewsbury whom also for his martiall valour and singular wisdome he admitted into the society of the Order of the Garter and made Governor of Callis Then runneth Salwarp downe to Droitwich Durt-wich some terme it of the Salt pits and the wettish ground on which it standeth like as Hyetus in Bâ—etia tooke name of the durty situation where three fountaines yeelding plenty of water to make Salt of divided a sunder by a little brooke of fresh water passing betweene by a peculiar giâ—t of nature spring out out of which most pure white Salt is boiled for sixe moneths every yeere to wit from Midsommer to Midwinter in many set fornaces round about Wherewith what a mighty deale of wood is consumed Fekenham Forest where trees grew sometime thicker and the woods round about if men hold their peace will by their thinnesse make manifest more and more But if I should write that the learned Canonist Richard de la Wich Bishop of Chichester here borne obtained with his fervent prayers these Salt springs out of the bowels of the earth I feare me least some might thinke me both over injurious to the providence of God and also too credulous of old wives traditions Yet were our ancestours in their pious devotion so hasty of beleefe that they did not onely give credit hereto yea and recorde it in their writings but in consideration heereof yeelded unto that Prelate in some sort divine honour when Pope Urban the Fourth had for his sanctity and sincere integrity of life canonized him a Saint But before that ever this Richard was borne Gervase of Tilbury wrote thus of these Salt springs though not altogether truely In the Bishopricke of Worcester there is a country towne not farre from the City named Wich in which at the foote of a certaine little hill there runneth a most fresh water in the banke whereof are seene a few pits or wels of a reasonable depth and their water is most salt When this water is boyled in Caudrons it becommeth thicke and turneth into passing white Salt and all the Province fetcheth and carrieth it for that betweene Christmas and the feast of S. Iohn Baptists Nativitie good the water floweth most Salt The rest of the yeere it runneth somewhat fresh and nothing good to make Salt and that which I take to be more wonderfull when this salt water is run sufficiently for the use of the Country scarcely overfloweth it to any waste Also when the time is once come of the saltnesse the same is nothing at all allaid for all the vicinity of the fresh river water neither is it found in any place neere unto the Sea Moreover in the very Kings booke which we call Domesday we read thus In Wich the King and Earle have eight salt pits which in the whole weeke wherein they boiled and wrought yeelded on the Friday sixteene Bullions Salwarp having now entertained a small brooke descending from Chedesley where anciently the family of Foliot flourished as afterward at Longdon maketh hast to Severne which hath not passed foure miles farther before he runs hard by WORCESTER the principall City of this Shire where he seemeth to passe with a flower streame as it were admiring and wondering thereat all the while he passeth by and worthy it is I assure you of admiration whether you respect either the antiquity or the beauty thereof Certes for antiquity the Emperour Antonine hath made mention of it under the name of BRANONIUM and Ptolomee in whom through the negligence of the transcribers it is misplaced under the name of BRANOGENIUM after which name the Britans call it yet Care Wrangon In the Catalogue of Ninnius it is named Caer Guorangon and Caer Guorcon the old English-Saxons afterward called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 I dare not say of Wire that woody Forest which in old time stretched farre Since the Conquest the Latine writers named it Vigornia and Wigornia Which name Ioseph the Monke of Excester a right elegant Poet in those daies was one of the first that used if my memory faile me not I meane him that is published under the name of Cornelius Nepos in these his elegant verses unto Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury In numerum jam crescit honor te tertia poscit Insula jam meminit Wigornia Cantia discit Romanus meditatur apex naufraga Petri Ductorem in mediis expectat cymba procellis A mitre third now waits for thee for still thine honour growes Thee Wigorne still remembereth now Canterbury knowes The See of Rome doth thinke of thee and Peters ship in feare Of wracke amid the boistrous stormes expects thee for to steare Probable it is that the Romanes built it what time as they planted cities at certaine spaces and distances along the East banke of Severne to keepe in the Britans beyond Severne like as they did in Germany on the South banke of Rhene to represse the incursions of the Germans It standeth in a place rising somewhat with a gentle ascent by the rivers side that hath a faire bridge with a tower over it proudly bearing it selfe in old time as I finde it written in an ancient Manuscript roule of the Romanes wall and even now also it is well and strongly walled But the fame and reputation that it now hath ariseth from the Inhabitants who are many in number courteous and wealthy by the trade of clothing from their faire and neat houses from the number also of Churches but most of all from the Bishops See which Sexwulph Bishop of the Mercians erected there in the yeere of Christ 680. having built a Cathedrall Church at the South side of the City which hath been often repaired and which the Bishops and Monkes by little and little have drawne out in length Westward almost to the very brinke of Severn Truly it is a passing faire and stately building adorned with the Monuments and Tombes of King Iohn Arthur Prince of Wales and divers of the Beauchamps and in these daies it is no lesse notable by the Deane and Chapter whom they call Prebendaries placed therein than it was in times past for the Monkes or the Cloister Priests For presently upon the first foundation like as in other religious houses of England married Priests were placed heere who carrying a long time a great opinion of holinesse governed the Churches untill that Danstane Archbishop of Canterbury had decreed in a Synode That from thence forward the religious men in England should live a
single life For then Oswald Bishop of this City who promoted the Monasticall life as busily as any whosoever remooved the Priests and brought in Monkes Which King Eadgar testifieth in these words The Monasteries as well of Monkes as of Virgins have beene destroied and quite neglected throughout England which I have now determined to repaire to the glory of God for my soules health and so to multiply the number of Gods servants and hand-maides And now already I have set up seven and forty Monasteries with Monkes and Nunnes in them and if Christ spare me life so long I am determined in offering my devout munificence to God for to proceed to fifty even the just number of a Iubilee Whereupon at this present that Monastery which the reverend Bishop Oswald in the Episcopall See of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 amply enlarged to the honour of Mary the holy Mother of God and by casting out those Clerkes c. hath with my assent and favour appointed there Monkes the religious servants of God I my selfe doe by my royall authority confirme and by the counsell and consent of my Peeres and Nobles corroborate and consigne to those religious men living a sole and single life c. Long time after when the state of the Church and Clergy here partly by the Danes incursion and in part by civill dissentions was so greatly weakened and brought upon the very knees that in lieu of that multitude of religious persons whom Oswald had heere placed scarce twelve remained Wolstan Bishop of this Church about the yeer of the worlds redemption 1090. put to his helping hand raised it up againe and brought them to the number of 50. yea and built a new Church for them Wolstan I say a man not so learned the times then were such but of that simple sincerity without all hypocrisie so severe also and austere of life that as he was terrible to the wicked so he was venerable to the good and after his death the Church registred him in the number of Saints But King Henry the Eighth suppressed and expelled the Monkes after they had in all plenty and fulnesse lived more than 500. yeeres and in their roomes he substituted a Deane and Prebendaries and withall erected a Grammar-schoole for the training up of youth Hard by this Church the bare name and plot of a Castle remaineth which as wee reade in William of Malmesburies booke of Bishops Ursus appointed Sheriffe of Worcestershire by William the Conquerour built under the very nose and in the mouth well neere of the Monkes in so much as he cut away from them a part of their Church-yard But this Castle through the iniquity of time and casuality of fire was consumed many yeeres ago The City it selfe also hath been burnt more than once as being set on fire in the yeere of Christ 1041. by Hardy-Cnute who exceedingly incensed against the Citizens because they had slaine his Huscarles for so they tearmed those domesticall Gatherers of the Danes tribute did not only set fire on the City but slew the Citizens every mothers sonne unlesse it were those that saved themselves in 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 an Island compassed in with the River Howbeit as we finde written in King William the Conquerours booke in King Edward the Confessours time It had many Burgesses and for fifteene Hides discharged it selfe when the Mint went every Minter gave twenty shillings at London for to receive coyning stamps of money In the yeere 1113. a skarfire that came no man knew how burnt the Castle caught also with the flames to the roofes of the Church Likewise in the Raigne of Stephen in the time of Civill Warres it was twice on fire but most dangerously when King Stephen who had to his owne damage given this City unto Wallerand Earle of Mellent seized it into his owne hands howbeit he was not able at that time to winne the Castle Neverthelesse it raised it selfe up againe out of the ashes in a goodlier forme alwaies than it had before and flourished in a right good state of civill government governed by two Bailiffes chosen out of 24. Citizens two Aldermen and two Chamberlains with a Common Counsell consisting of 48. Citizens As touching the Geographicall position of this City it is distant in Longitude from the West Meridian 21. Degrees and 52. Minutes and the North Pole is elevated 52. Degrees and 12. Minutes From Worcester the River Severn running on still Southward passeth beside Powicke the seat in times past of Sir Iohn Beauchamp whom King Henry the Sixth raised up to the state of a Baron and within a small time the female heires brought the inheritance to the Willoughbeies of Broke the Reads and the Lygons then runneth it through most rich and redolent medowes by Hanley Castle belonging sometimes to the Earles of Glocester and by Upton a Mercate Towne of great name where peeces of Romane money are oftentimes found Not farre from hence upon the banke on the right hand the Severn beholdeth Malvern-Hills hills in deed or rather great and high mountaines which for the space of seven miles or thereabout doe as it were by degrees rise higher and higher dividing this Shire from the County of Hereford On the brow of which Hills Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester did cast a Ditch in times past to make a partition betweene his possessions and the lands of the Church of Worcester a peece of worke which is at this day seene not without wonder Over against those hils and in like distance almost from the other banke Bredon Hills being farre lesse yet in emulation as it were to match them mount aloft among which Elmsley Castle belonging sometimes to Ursus or Urso D' Abtot maketh a goodly shew by whose daughter and heire Emeline it came hereditarily to the Beauchamps At the foote of these hills lieth Bredon a Village concerning the Monastery whereof Offa King of the Mercians saith thus I Offa King of the Mercians will give land containing seven times five Acres of Tributaries unto the Monastery that is named Breodun in the Province of the Wiccij and to the Church of blessed Saint Peter Prince of the Apostles there and in that place standing which Church Eanwulph my grandfather erected to the praise and glory of the everliving God Under these Bredon hils Southward you see two villages named Washborne whence came the sirname to a very ancient and worshipfull Family in this Tract standing in a parcell of this Province dismembred as it were from the rest of the body of which kinde there be other parcels here and there scattering all about But what should be the cause I am not able to resolve unlesse haply those that in old time were governours adjoined to their government their owne lands that lay neere unto the Region which they then governed Now Avon from above runneth downe and speeds himselfe to Severn who in this shire
this City as Ptolomee Antonine and the ancient Coine of Septimius Geta doe prove by which it appeareth for certaine that this City also was a Colony For in the reverse or back-side thereof standeth this Inscription COL DIUANA LEG XX. VICTRIX But to testifie the Romanes magnificence there are remaining indeed at this day very few tokens beside pavements of foure square checker worke howbeit in the former ages it presented many which Ranulph a Monke of this City shall tell you out of his Polychronicon in these his owne words There be waies heere under the ground vaulted marveilously with stone worke chambers having arched roofes over head huge stones engraven with the names of ancient men heere also are sometimes digged up peeces of money coined by Julius Caesar and other famous persons and stumped with their inscriptions Likewise Roger of Chester in his Policraticon When I behold saith he the ground worke of buildings in the streetes laid with monstrous big stones it seemeth that it hath beene founded by the painfull labour of Romans or Giants rather than by the sweat of Britans This City built in forme of a quadrant foure square is enclosed with a wall that taketh up more than two miles in compasse and hath eleven parishes But that of S. Johns without the Northgate was the fairest being a stately and solemne building as appeareth by the remaines wherein were anciently Prebendaries and as some write the Bishops See Neere unto the River standeth the Castle upon a rocky hill built by the Earles where the Courts Palatine and the Assises as they call them are kept twice a yeere The houses are very faire built and along the chiefe streets are galleries or walking places they call them Rowes having shops on both sides through which a man may walke dry from one end unto the other But it hath not continued evermore in one tenor of prosperity First it was rased by Egfrid King of Northumberland then by the Danes yet reedified againe by Aedelfled Lady of the Mercians and soone after it saw King Eadgar in magnificent maner triumphing over the British Princes For sitting himselfe in a Barge at the fore-decke Kennadie King of the Scots Malcoline King of Cumberland Macon King of Mann and of the Islands with all the Princes of Wales brought to doe homage and like watermen working at the Ore rowed him along the River Dee in a triumphant shew to his great glory and joy of the beholders Certaine yeeres after and namely about the yeere of our Redemption 1094. when as in a devour and religious emulation as one saith Princes strove avie That Cathedrall Churches and Minsters should bee erected in a more decent and seemely forme and when as Christendome rouzed as it were her selfe and casting away her old habiliments did put on every where the bright and white robe of Churches Hugh the first of the Norman bloud that was Earle of Chester repaired the Church which Earle Loefrick had formerly founded in honour of the Virgin Saint Werburga and by the advise of Anselm whom he had procured to come out of Normandy granted the same unto Monkes And now it is notorious for the Tombe of Henry the Fourth Emperour of Almaine who as they say gave over his Empire and lived heere an Eremits life and for the Bishops See therein established Which See immediately after the Normans Conquest Peter Bishop of Lichfield translated from Lichfield hither but when it was brought to Coventry and from thence into the ancient seat againe West-Chester lay a long time berest of this Episcopall Dignity untill in our fathers dayes King Henry the Eighth having thrust out the Monkes ordeined Prebendaries and restored a Bishopagaine under whom for his Dioecesse he appointed this County Lancashire Richmond c. and appointed the same to be within the Province of the Archbishop of Yorke But returne wee now to matters of greater antiquity When as now the said Cathedrall Church was built the Earles that were of the Normans line fortified the City both with Walles and Castle For as the Bishop held of the King that which belongeth to his Bishopricke these are the words of Domesday booke made by King William the Conquerour so the Earles with their men held of the King wholly all the rest of the City It paid Geld or Tribute for fifty hides and foure hundred and thirty and one houses were thus Geldable and seven Mint-masters When the King himselfe in person came thither every Carrucata yeelded unto him two hundred Hestas and one turn full of Ale and one Rusca of butyr And in the same place for the reedification of the City wall and the bridge the Provost gave warning by an edict that out of every hide in the County one man should come and looke whose man came not his Lord or Master was sined in forty shillings to the King and the Earle If I should particulate the scufflings and skirmishes heere about betweene the Welsh and the English in the beginning of the Normans time their inrodes and outrodes the often scarfires of the Suburbs of Hanbrid beyond the Bridge whereupon the Welshmen call it Treboeth that is The burnt towne as also the Wall made there of Welshmens skuls that went a great length I should seeme to forget my selfe and thrust my sicle into the Historians Harvest But ever since the said time hath Chester notably flourished and King Henry the Seventh made it a County by it selfe incorporate Neither wanteth any thing there that may be required in a most flourishing City but that the Ocean being offended and angry as it were at certaine Mills in the very chanell of the River Dee hath by little withdrawne himselfe back and affoordeth not unto the City the commodity of an Haven as heretofore The Longitude of this place is twenty Degrees and three and twenty Scruples the Latitude three and fifty Degrees and eleven Scruples If you desire to know more touching this City have here these reports out of Lucian that Monke abovesaid who lived almost five hundred yeeres agoe First it is to bee considered that Chester is built as a City the site whereof inviteth and allureth the eye which being situate in the West parts of Britaine was in time past a place of receipt to the Legions comming a farre off to repose themselves and served sufficiently to keepe the Keies as I may say of Ireland for the Romanes to preserve the limite of their Empire For being opposite to the North-East part of Ireland it openeth way for passage of ships and Mariners with spread saile passing not often but continually to and fro as also for the commodities of sundry sorts of Merchandise And whiles it casteth an eye forward into the East it looketh toward not onely the See of Rome and the Emperor thereof but the whole world also so that it standeth forth as a kenning place to the view of eyes that there may bee knowne valiant exploites and
having obtained leave of King Etheldred gave unto the Church of Durham and Hugh Pudsey adorned it with a faire Church and other edifices In this Towne field are three pittes of a wonderfull depth the common people tearme them Hell-Kettles because the water in them by the Antiperistasis or reverberation of the cold aire striking thereupon waxeth hote The wiser sort and men of better judgement doe thinke they came by the sinking downe of the ground swallowed up in some earth-quake and that by a good probable reason For thus we reade in the Chronicles of Tinmouth In the yeere of our Lord 1179. on Christmas day at Oxenhall in the Territory of Derlington within the Bishopricke of Durham the ground heaved it selfe up aloft like unto an high Towre and so continued all that day as it were unmoveable untill the evening and then fell with so horrible a noise that it made all the neighbour dwellers afraide and the earth swallowed it up and made in the same place a deepe pit which is there to bee seene for a testimony unto this day That these Pittes have passages under the ground Bishop Cuthbert Tonstall first observed by finding that Goose in the River Tees which he for the better triall and experience of these Pits had marked and let downe into them Beyond Derlington Tees hath no Townes of any great account standing upon it but gliding along the skirtes of greene fields and by country Villages winding in and out as he passeth at length dischargeth himselfe at a large mouth into the Ocean whence the base or bothom of the Triangle aforesaid towards the Sea beginneth From hence the shore coasteth Northward holding on entire still save that it is interrupted with one or two little Brookes and no more neere unto Gretham where Robert Bishop of Durham having the Manour given freely unto him by Sir Peter de Montfort founded a goodly Hospitall Next unto it is Claxton which gave name unto a Family of good and ancient note in this Tract whereof I have beene the more willing to make mention because of the same house was T. Claxton an affectionate lover of venerable Antiquity From thence the shore shooteth forth into the Sea with one onely Promontory scarce seven miles above Tees mouth on which standeth very commodiously Hartlepoole a good Towne of trade and a safe harbour for shipping Bede seemeth to call it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which Henry of Huntingdon interpreteth The Harts or Stagges Island where hee writeth that Heiu a religious woman founded a Monastery in times past If Heorteu bee not rather the name of that little Territory which the Booke of Dâ—resme seemeth to implie and in another place calleth Heortnesse because it lyeth out somewhat farre into the Sea From this for fifteene miles together the shore being in no place broken off but heere and there embroidered as it were and garnished with Townes smileth pleasantly upon those that saile that way untill it openeth it selfe to make roome for the River VEDRA for so Ptolomee calleth that which Bede nameth Wirus the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we Were This river first groweth into one out of three riverets Burden-hop Wel-hop and Kel-hop in the utmost part of this Country Westward which when they are joyned in one chanell is called by one name Were and speedeth into the East by vast moores and heathes by great Parkes of the Bishops and by Witton a little Castle or pile belonging to the Lords Evers who are Noblemen in this Country of great antiquity as descended from the Lords of Clavering and Warkworth as also from the Vescyes and the Attons by Daughters renowned for their martiall prowesse which Scotland may well witnesse For King Edward the First gave unto them for their valiant service Kettnes a little Towne in Scotland and King Henry the Eighth within our fathers remembrance honoured them in that respect with the Title of Barons Then Were after a few miles taketh into him from the South Gaunlesse a Riveret where at the very meeting of them both together there standeth upon an high hill Aukland so called of Okes like as Sarron in Greece which sheweth an house of the Bishops stately built with Turrets by Antony Bec and withall a beautifull Bridge made by Walter Skirlaw a Bishop of Durham about the yeere 1400. who also enlarged this house and built the Bridge over Tees at Yare From hence Were turneth his course Northward that he might water this shire the longer and then forthwith looketh up to the remaines of an ancient City not now a dying but dead many yeeres agoe standing on the brow of an hill which Antonine the Emperour called VINOVIUM Ptolomee BINOVIUM in whom it is so thrust out of his owne place and set as it were in another Climate that it would for ever have lien hid had not Antonine pointed at it with his finger Wee call it at this day Binchester and it hath in it a very few houses yet it is very well knowne to them that dwell thereabout both by reason of the heapes of rubbish and the reliques of walles yet to be seene as also for peeces of Romane Coine often digged up there which they call Binchester Penies yea and for the Inscriptions of the Romanes amongst which I happened of late when I was there upon an Altar with this Inscription DE AB MATRIB Q. LO CL. QUIN TIANUS COS V. S. L. M. Another stone also was heere lately gotten out of the ground but defaced with voide places where the letters were worne out which notwithstanding if one beheld it wishly seemeth to shew this Inscription TRIB COHOR I. CARTOV MARTI VICTORI GENIO LOCI ET BONO EVENTUI Neither have I read any thing else of it but that an old booke maketh mention how the Earles of Northumberland long since plucked away this with other Villages from the Church what time as that accursed and unsatiable hunger after Gold swallowed up also the sacred patrimony of the Church On the other banke of Were among the mounting Hilles appeareth Branspeth Castle which the Bulmers built and the daughter of Sir Bertram Bulmer coupled in marriage unto Geffrey Nevill adjoyned with other great Possessions unto the Family of the Nevills Within a while after Were runneth downe much troubled and hindered in his Course with many great Stones apparent above the water which unlesse the River doe rise and swell with great store of raine are never over covered and upon which a thing that happeneth not elsewhere if yee powre water and temper it a little with them it sucketh in a saltish quality Nay that which more is at Butterby a little Village when the River in Summer time is very ebbe and shallow there issueth out of those stones a certaine salt reddish water which by the heat of the Sunne waxeth so white and withall groweth to a thicke substance that
the people dwelling thereby gather from hence salt sufficiently for their use And now the River as though it purposed to make an Island compasseth almost on every side the chiefe City of this Province standing on an hill whence the Saxons gave it the name Dunholm For as you may gather out of Bede they called an hill Dun and a river Island Holme Heereof the Latine Writers have made DUNELMUM the Normans Duresme but the common people most corruptly name it Durham It is seated on high and passing strongly withall yet taketh it up no great circuit of ground shaped in forme as one would say of an egge environed on every side save on the North with the River and fortified with a wall Toward the South side almost whereas the River fetcheth it selfe about standeth the Cathedrall Church aloft making a solemne and a sightly shew with an high Towre in the middest and two Spires at the West end In the middest there is a Castle placed as it were betweene two stone bridges over the river the one Eastward the other Westward From the Castle Northward is seene a spacious Mercate-place and Saint Nicholas Church from whence there runneth out a great length North-East a Suburbe compassed on two sides the River like as others on both sides beyond the River which leade unto the Bridges and euery of them have their severall Churches The originall of this City is of no great Antiquity For when the distressed Monkes of Lindisfarn driven hither and thither by the Danes Warres wandered up and downe without any certaine place of abode with the corps of Saint Cuthbert at length heere they setled themselves by divine direction about the yeere of our Salvation 995. But heare the whole matter out of mine Authour of Durham All the people accompanying the corps of that most holy Father Cuthbert came into Dunholme a place verily strong of it selfe by nature but not easily to bee inhabited as being wholly beset on every side with a most thicke Wood onely in the middest was a little Plaine which was wont to bee tilled and sowed with Corne where Bishop Aldwin built afterwards a faire Church of stone The foresaid Prelate therefore through the helpe of all the people and the assistance of Uthred Earle of Northumberland stocked up all the Wood and in short time made the whole place habitable To conclude the people generally from the River Coqued as farre as to Tees came right willingly as well to this worke as after that to build a Church and untill it was finished ceased not to follow that businesse devoutly Wherefore after the Wood was quite grub'd up and every one had their mansion places assigned out by lot The said Bishop in a fervent love to Christ and Saint Cuthbert upon an honest and godly intent beganne no small peece of worke to build a Church and endeavoured by all meanes to finish the same Thus farre mine Authour Not many yeeres after those Englishmen who could not endure the insolent command of the Normans presuming upon the naturall strength of the place chose it for their chiefe Hold and seat of resistance yea and from thence troubled the Conquerour not a little For William Gemeticensis writeth thus They went into a part of the Country which for waters and woods was inaccessible raising a Castle with a most strong trench and rampier which they called Dunholme out of which making many rodes sundry waies for a certaine space they kept themselves close there waiting for the comming of Swene King of the Danes But when that fell not out according to their expectation they provided for themselves by flight and King William comming to Durham granted many priviledges for establishing the liberty of the Church and built the Castle whereof I spake on the highest part of the hill which afterwards became the Bishops house and the keies thereof when the Bishopricke was voide were wont by an ancient custome to be hanged upon Saint Cuthberts shrine When this Castle was once built William of Malmesbury who lived about that time describeth this City in these words Durham is a prety hill rising by little and little from one plaine of the Valley with a gentle ascent untill it come to bee a mount and although by reason of the rough and steepe situation of the Rockes there is no way for the enemy to enter it yet they of these daies have erected a Castle upon the hill At the very foote and bottom of the Castle runneth a River wherein is great store of fish but of Salmons especially At the same time well neere as that ancient Booke reporteth William de Careleph the Bishop who gathered againe the dispersed Monkes hither for the Danes in every place had overthrowne their Cloistures pulled downe that Church which Aldwin had formerly built and beganne the foundation of another of a fairer worke which his successour Ralph finished And after that Nicholas Feruham Bishop and Thomas Mescomb Prior adjoyned a new Fabrique or frame unto it in the yeere of Christ 1242. And a good while after W. Skirlaw the Bishop built at the West end of the Church a faire peece of worke which they call Gallilee whereinto hee translated the marble Tombe of Venerable Bede In which place Hugh Pudsey beganne in times past an house wherein I use the words of an ancient Booke women might lawfully enter that whereas they had not corporall accesse unto the more secret holy places yet they might have some comfort by the beholding of the holy mysteries But that Ralph the Bishop aforesaid as our Historian writeth reduced the place â—etweene the Church and the Castle which had beene taken up with many dwelling houses into a plaine and open ground for feare least either any annoyance by filth or dangers by fire might come neere unto the Church And all be it the City was strong enough by the naturall site yet hee made it more strong and stately with a Wall reaching in length from the Chauncell of the Church unto the Keepe and Towre of the Castle Which wall now by little and little giveth place unto time and never that I could heare suffered any assault of enemy For when David Brus King of Scots had forraied the Country with fire and sword as farre as to Beanparke or Beereparke which is a Parke neere unto the City whiles King Edward the Third besieged Calais Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of Yorke with their Companies of men mustered up in haste encountered the Scots and so couragiously charged them that having taken the King prisoner they slew the most of the first and second battaile and put the third to a fearefull flight neither staied they at most steepe and cumbersome places untill they recovered their owne Holds This is that famous Battaile which our people call The Battaile at Nevils Crosse. For the chiefest of the Scottish Nobility being slaine and the King taken prisoner at this field they were enforced
said What ever vaine excesse affects what may mans need content Shall come from thee or else to thee from other lands be sent This plentifull abundance these goodly pleasures of Britain have perswaded some that those fortunate Islands wherein all things as Poets write do still flourish as in a perpetuall Spring tide were sometime heere with us For this doth one Isacius Tzetzes a Greek Author of no small credit affirme and our ancestours seeme to have believed the same as a certaine truth For what time as Pope Clement the sixth as wee read in Robert of Aevsburie had elected Lewis of Spaine to bee the Prince of those fortunate Islands and for to aid and assist him mustered souldiers in France and Italie our countrymen were verily perswaded That hee was chosen Prince of Britâ—ine and that all the said preparation was for Britaine as one saith he of the fortunate Islands Yea and even those most prudent personages themselves our Legier Embassadours there with the Pope were so deeply setled in this opinion that forthwith they withdrew themselves from Rome and hastned with all speed into England there to certifie their countreymen and friends of the matter Neither will any man now judge otherwise who throughly knoweth the blessed estate and happie wealth of Britaine For Nature tooke a pleasure in the framing thereof and seemeth to have made it as a second world sequestred from the other to delight mankind withall yea and curiously depainted it of purpose as it were a certaine portraict to represent a singular beautie and for the ornament of the universall world with so gallant and glittering variety with so pleasant a shew are the beholders eies delighted which way soever they glance To say nothing of the Inhabitants whose bodies are of an excellent good constitution their demeanour right courteous their natures as gentle and their courage most hardie and valiant whose manhood by exploits atchieved both at home and abroad is famously renowned thorow the whole world But who were the most ancient and the very first Inhabitants of this Isle as also from whence this word Britan had the originall derivation sundry opinions one after another have risen and many we have seene who being uncertaine in this point have seemed to put downe the certaine resolution thereof Neither can we hope to attaine unto any certaintie heerein more than all other nations which setting those aside that have their originall avouched unto them out of holy Scripture as well as wee touching their point abide in great darkenesse errour and ignorance And how to speake truly can it otherwise be considering that the trueth after so many revolutions of ages and times could not chuse but be deepely hidden For the first inhabitours of countreys had other cares and thoughts to busie and trouble their heads than to deliver their beginnings unto posteritie And say they had been most willing so to do yet possibly could they not seeing their life was so uncivill so rude so full of warres and therefore void of all literature which keeping companie with a civill life by peace and repose is onely able to preserve the memorie of things and to make over the same to the succeeding ages Moreover the Druidae who being in the olde time the Priests of the Britans and Gaules were supposed to have knowne all that was past the Bardi that used to resound in song all valours and noble acts thought it not lawfull to write and booke any thing But admit they had recorded ought in so long continuance of time in so many and so great turnings and overturnings of States doubtlesse the same had beene utterly lost seeing that the very stones pyramides obelisks and other memorable monuments thought to be more durable than brasse have yeelded long agoe to the iniquitie of time Howbeit in the ages soone after following there wanted not such as desired gladly to supplie these defects and when they could not declare the trueth indeed yet at least way for delectation they laboured to bring foorth narrations devised of purpose with certaine pleasant varietie to give contentment and delivered their severall opinions each one after his owne conceit and capacitie touching the originall of Nations and their names Unto which as there were many who neglecting further search into the trueth quickly yeelded connivence so the most sort delighted with the sweetnesse of the Deviser as readily gave credence But to let passe all the rest one Geffrey Ap Arthur of Monmouth among us whom I would not pronounce in this behalfe liable to this suspicion in the raigne of K. Henrie the Second published an Historie of Britaine and that out of the British tongue as hee saith himselfe wherein he writeth That Brutus a Trojane borne the sonne of Silvius nephew of Ascanius and in a third degree nephew to that great Aeneas descended from supreame Jupiter for the goddesse Venus bare him whose birth cost his mother her life and who by chance slew his owne father in hunting a thing that the wise Magi had foretold fled his country and went into Greece where he delivered out of thraldome the progenie of Helenus K. Priamus sonne vanquished King Pandrasus wedded his daughter and accompanied with a remnant of Trojans fell upon the Island Leogetia where by the Oracle of Diana he was advised to goe into this Westerne Isle From thence through the Streights of Gebraltar where he escaped the Mer-maydes and afterward through the Tuskan sea hee came as farre as to Aquitaine in a pight battell defeated Golfarius the Pict King of Aquitaine together with twelve Princes of Gaul and after he had built the citie Tours as witnesseth Homer and made spoile of Gaule passed over sea into this Island inhabited of Giants whom when he had conquered together with Gogmagog the hugest of them all according to his owne name he called it Britaine in the yeare of the world 2855 before the first Olympiad 334. yeares and before the nativitie of Christ 1108. Thus farre Geffrey of Monmouth Yet others there bee that fetch the name of Britaine from some other causes Sir Thomas Eliot by degree a worshipfull Knight and a man of singular learning draweth it from the Greeke fountaine to wit 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a tearme that the Athenians gave to their publike Finances or Revenues Humfrey Lhuyd reputed by our countrymen for knowledge of Antiquitie to carrie after a sort with him all the credit and authoritie referreth it confidently to the British word PRID-CAIN that is to say a pure white forme Pomponius Laetus reporteth that the Britons out of Armorica in France gave it that name Goropius Becanus saith that the Danes sought heere to plant themselves and so named it BRIDANIA that is Free Dania Others derive it from PRVTENIA a region in Germanie Bodine supposeth that it tooke the name of BRETTA the Spanish word which signifieth Earth and Forcatulus of BRITHIN which as wee read in Athenaeus
couragious heart doth all thy battels fight Thus Nations fierce it drives to rout and doth in chase pursue Yielding to thee right willingly all paiments just and due Victors from hence most valorous thy lot it is to have And under thee unfoiled bands advance their ensignes brave About this time as evidently appeareth by the Code of Theodosius Pacatianus was the Vicarius of Britaine for by this time the Province had no more Propraetors nor Lieutenants but in stead thereof was a Vicar substituted This Emperor Constantine was right happy for very many praises those I assure you most justly deserved for he not onely set the Roman Empire in free estate but also having scattered the thicke cloud of Superstition let in the true light of Christ by setting open the Temples to the true God and shutting them against the false For now no sooner was the blustering tempest and storme of persecution blowne over but the faithfull Christians who in the time of trouble and danger had hidden themselves in woods desarts and secret caves being come abroad in open sight reedifie the Churches ruinate to the very ground the Temple of holy Martyrs they found build finish and erect as it were the banners of victorie in every place celebrate festivall holy-daies and with pure heart and mouth also performe their sacred solemnities And thereupon he is renowned under these titles IMPERATOR FORTISSIMUS AC BEATISSIMUS PIISSIMVS FOELIX URBIS LIBERATOR QUIETIS FVNDATOR REIPUBLICAE INSTAURATOR PUBLICAE LIBERTATIS AUCTOR RESTITVTOR URBIS ROMAE ATQVE ORBIS MAGNUS MAXIMUS INVICTVS INVICTISSIMUS PERPETUUS SEMPER AUGUSTUS RERUM HUMANARUM OPTIMUS PRINCEPS VIRTUTE FORTISSIMUS ET PIETATE CLEMENTISSIMUS And in the Lawes QUI VENERANDA CHRISTIANORUM FIDE ROMANUM MUNIVIT JMPERIUM DIVUS DIVAE MEMORIAE DIVINAE MEMORIAE c. That is Most valiant and blessed Emperour Most pious Happie Redeemer of Rome Citie Founder of Peace Restorer of Rome Citie and the whole world Great Most great Invincible Most invincible Perpetuall Ever Augustus The best Prince of the World For vertue most valiant and for pietie most mercifull Also Who fortified the Roman Empire with the reverend Faith of the Christians Sacred Of sacred Memorie Of Divine memorie c. And hee was the first Emperour as farre as I could ever to this time observe who in coines of money and publike workes was honoured with this Inscription DOMINUS NOSTER that is Our Lord. Although I know full well that Dioclesian was the first after Caligula who suffered himselfe openly to be called LORD Howbeit in this so worthy an Emperour his politike wisedome was wanting in this point that he made the way for barbarous people into Britaine Germanie and Gaule For when he had subdued the northerne Nations so as that now he stood in no feare of them and for to equall the power of the Persians who in the East parts threatned the Roman Empire had built Constantinople a new Citie those Legions that lay in defence of the Marches he partly translated into the East and in their stead built forts and holds and partly withdrew into Cities more remote from the said marches so that soone after his death the Barbarians forcing the townes and fortresses brake into the Provinces And in this respect there goeth a very bad report of him in Zosimus as being the main and first subverter of a most flourishing Empire Seeing moreover that Constantine altered the forme of the Roman government it shall not be impertinent in this very place to note summarily in what sort Britaine was ruled under him and afterward in the next succeeding ages He ordained foure Praefects of the Praetorium to wit of the East of Illyricum of Italie and of Gaule two Leaders or Commanders of the Forces the one of footmen the other of horsemen in the West whom they termed Praesentales For civill government there ruled Britaine the Praefect of the Praetorium or Grand Seneschall in Gaule and under him the Vicar Generall of Britaine who was his Vicegerent and honoured with the title Spectabilis that is notable or remarkable Him obeied respectively to the number of the Provinces two Consular Deputies and three Presidents who had the hearing of civill and criminall causes For militarie affaires there ruled the Leader or Commander of the footmen in the West at whose disposition were the Count or Lieutenant of Britaine the Count or Lieutenant of the Saxon-coast along Britaine and the Duke of Britaine stiled every one Spectabiles that is Remarkable The Count Lieutenant of Britaine seemeth to have ruled the in-land parts of the Island who had with him seven companies of footmen and nine cornets or troups of horsemen The Count or Lieutenant of the Saxon coast namely who defended the maritime parts against the Saxons and is named by Ammianus Comes maritimi tractus that is Lieutenant of the Maritime tract for defence of the Sea coast had seven companies of footmen two guidons of horsemen the second Legion and one cohort The Generall of Britan who defended the Marches or Frontiers against the Barbarians had the command of eight and thirty garrison forts wherein kept their Stations 14000. foot and 900. horsemen So that in those daies if Pancirolus have kept just computation Britaine maintained 19200. footemen and 1700 horsemen or much there about in ordinarie Besides all these Comes sacrarum Largitionum that is The Receiver of the Emperours Finances or publike revenues had under him in Britaine the Rationall or Auditor of the summes and revenues of Britaine the Provost of the Augustian that is Emperours Treasures in Britaine and the Procurator of the Gynegium or Draperie in Britaine in which the clothes of the Prince and souldiers were woven The Count also of private Revenues had his Rationall or Auditour of private State in Britaine to say nothing of the sword Fence Schoole Procurator in Britaine whereof an old Inscription maketh mention and of other officers of an inferiour degree When Constantine was dead Britaine fell unto his Sonne Constantine who upon an ambitious humour and desire of rule breaking into the possessions of other men was slaine by his brother Constans With which victory hee was so puffed up that he seized Britaine and the rest of the Provinces into his owne hands and with his brother Constantius came into this Island And thereupon Julius Firmicus not that Pagane the Astrologer but the Christian speaketh in this wise unto them Yee have in Winter time a thing that never was done before nor shall be againe subdued under your oares the swelling and raging billowes of the British Ocean The waves now of the sea unto this time well neere unknowne unto us have trembled and the Britaine 's were sore afraid to see the unexpected face of the Emperour What would ye more the very Elements as vanquished have given place unto your vertues This Constans it was that called a
seene a triumphall Arch with the portrait of an horseman betweene two trophees and this title DE BRITAN I would judge that therby is meant a twofold victorie obtained in the ninth yeare of Claudius his Empire according to the number that sheweth his Tribunitian authoritie renewed In the second piece which also is a coine of Claudius Augustus out of this Inscription TI. CLAVD CAES. AVG. GER TR. P. XII IMP. XIIX we are taught that in the twelfth yeare of his raigne he for a victorie won in Britan was with joyfull acclamations saluted Imperator the eighteenth time and at the same instant that the Colonie Camalodunum was thither brought which is signified expressely by an husbandman imprinted upon it with a Cow and a Bull. The Romans saith Servius when they were about to found and build cities being girt and clad after the Gabine fashion that is to say with one part of their gowne covering the head and the other tucked up yoked on the right hand a Bull and within forth a Cow and held the crooked plough taile bending inward so as all the clods of the earth might fall inward And thus having made a furrow they did set out the places for wals holding up the plough fro the ground wher the gates should be The Son of Claudius whose piece of coine the third is with Greek Characters was by vertue of an act of Senate adorned with the surname of BRITANNICVS in regard of his fathers fortunate wars that he might use the same as his owne proper addition He it was for whom Seneca praied in this wise That he might appease Germanie make way into Britaine and solemnize both his Fathers triumphs and also new of his owne But what should bee the meaning of an halfe ship in this coine with this Inscription Metropolis Etiminij Regis Certes I cannot for certaine affirme who that Etiminius was unlesse a man list to imagine him to have beene the very same Adiminius King Cunobelinus son of whom Suetonius reporteth That he ran away unto C. Caligula That which you see in the fourth place is a piece of Hadrians mony with this writing upon it HADRIANVS AVG. CONSVL III. PATER PATRIAE And in the other side EXERCITVS BRITANNICVS that is The Armie in Britaine represented by three souldiers I would deeme that it betokened the three Legions to wit Secunda Augusta Sexta victrix and Vicessima Victrix which served in Britaine Anno Christi 120. For then was he Consul the third time The fifth and sixth which are the coines of Antoninus Pius carrying this Inscription Antoninus Pius Pater Patriae Tribunitia potestate Consul tertiùm and in their reverse the one having Britaine sitting upon rocks with a militarie Ensigne a speare and a shield the other the selfe same Britaine sitting upon a globe seeme to have beene stamped by the Province Britaine in honour of Antoninus Pius when he began his Empire in the yeare of Christ 140. As for that militarie habit of the Province Britan it signifieth That Britan in those daies flourished in glory of martiall prowesse like as that piece of mony which at the same time Italie stamped for the honor of him hath such another figure sitting upon a globe with Cornu-copiae betokening plentie of all things that also which Sieilie coined hath the like figure with an eare of corne in token of fruitfulnesse semblably that which Mauritania stamped hath a portraict or personage holding two speares with an horse to shew the glory of that Province in good horsemanship and chivalrie Hitherto also is to be referred the ninth which is a piece of the same Antoninus but not set in his due place The seventh piece of mony stamped by Commodus sheweth no more but that he for a victorie against the Britans assumed into his stile the name of BRITANNICVS for in the other side thereof is to be seen Victory with a branch of the Date-tree holding a shield and sitting upon the shield of the Britans vanquished with this inscription VICTORIA BRITANNICA The eighth which is a coine of Caracalla and set here not in the right place more expresly sheweth by the numerall figures that hee vanquished his enemies in Britaine in the yeare of our Salvation 214. as also by the Trophee which Virgil better than any engraver portraied in these verses Ingentem quercum decisis undique ramis Constituit tumulo fulgentiá que induit arma Mezenti ducis exuvias tibi magne trophaeum Bellipotens aptat roranteis sanguine cristas Teláque trunca viri A mightie Oke the boughs whereof were shred from every side Vpon an hill he pight whereon he goodly armour tide Duke Mezence spoiles a trophee brave ô mightie Mars to thee And fits therto his crests which yet with gore bloud dropping be The truncheons of that Knight also The same is to be thought of the twelfth which also is one of the same Caracallaes But in those of Severus and Geta there is none obscuritie at all Who this Aebianus was I am not yet fully resolved Some reckon him to be A. Pomponius Aelianus one of the 30. Tyrants Others will him to be Cl. Aelianus one of the sixe Tyrants under Dioclesian There are also that thinke he was the very same Tyrant in Britain under the Emperour Probus of whom Zosimus made mention but suppressed his name and of whom I have written before Surely in what time soever he lived we suppose that in Britaine hee was named Augustus considering his pieces of money bee found in this Island onely carrying this Inscription IMPERATOR CL. AELIANVS PIVS FOELIX AVGVSTVS In the reverse there is to be read VICTORIA AVGVSTI which betokeneth that he subdued some Barbarians The coine of Carausius with this Inscription Imperator Caius Carausius Pius Foelix Augustus and in the backside thereof PAX AVGVSTI seemeth to have beene stamped at the very time when hee had quieted the British Sea which by reason of rovers was so dangerous When Allectus who made away Carausius had put on the Imperiall purple and fought manfully against the Barbarians he stamped this piece with VIRTVS AVGVSTI As for the Letters Q. L. some would have them to signifie a Quartarius stamped at London others The Questor that is Treasurer of London When as Constantius Chlorus being departed this life at Yorke was now solemnly consecrated and after the Pagan manner deified in honour and memoriall of him was this piece of money stamped which appeareth evidently by the Inscription and a Temple betweene two Eagles these letters underneath P. LON. doe plainely imply Pecuniam Londini that is that the said money was stamped at London His wife Flavia Helena a British Ladie borne as our histories report and as that most excellent Historiographer Baronius doth confirme what time as her Sonne Constantius Maximus had discomfited the Tyrant Maxentius and received these Titles Fundator quietis that is The founder of quietnesse and Liberator Orbis that
people have other names given unto them by their neighbours than they use themselves whereby often times there is a secret light given unto nations of their descent as for example the Inhabitants of the lower Pannonia who terme themselves Magier are in Dutch named Hungari for that they came first of the Huns they that border upon the Forrest Hercynia among themselves are called Czechi but by others Bohemi because they descended from the Boij in Gaule the Inhabitants of Africke who having also a peculiar name among themselves are by the Spaniards termed Alarbes for that they be Arabians the Irish who call themselves Erinach are by our Britans named Gwidhil considering also that as well those Irish and these our Britans gave no other name to us English men then Sassons because were are descended from the Saxons I would have the learned Scotish men first to consider whether they might not bee called of their neighbours as one would say Scythae For even as the Flemings and other Netherlanders expresse by this one word Scutten both the Scythians and Scots so it hath beene observed out of our British writers that they named both Scythians and Scots Y-Scot Ninnius also expresly calleth the Britans that inhabite Ireland Scythians and the narrow sea through which they passed over out of Ireland into Britaine Gildas nameth Vallem Scythicam that is The Scythian Vale. For so hath the copie printed at Paris where others without all sense read Stythicam Vallem Moreover King Alfred who seven hundred yeares past translated the Historie of Orosius into the English-Saxon tongue turned Scotos into Scyttan and our Country-men who dwell next to Scotland use to call them not by the name of Scots but Scyttes and Scettes For like as Walsingham is mine author the same people be called Getae Getici Gothi Gothici so from one and the same originall Scythae Scitici Scoti Scoeici take their names But whether this name were imposed upon this nation by their neighbours in regard of Scythian manners or because they came out of Scythia let them here advise well upon it Surely both Diodorus Siculus and also Strabo compare the first Britans inhabiting Ireland which is the native country indeed of the wild Irish and those that be right Scots with the Scythians for their savage nature Besides they drinke bloud out of the wounds of men slaine they establish leagues among themselves by drinking one anothers bloud and suppose that the greater number of slaughters they commit the more honour they win and so did the Scythians in old time To this wee may adde that these wild Scots like as the Scythians had for their principall weapons bowes and arrowes For Orpheus termeth Scythians 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 even as Aelianus and Julius Pollux Sagittarios that is Archers And learned men there be that thinke hereupon both nations had this name given unto them for their skill in shooting Neither may this seeme strange that divers nations carried the same names by occasion of the same manners as they who have travailed all over the West-Indies doe write that all strange and hardie men that doe so much mischiefe with bow and arrowes throughout all India and the Isles thereof are by one name called Caribes although they be of divers nations Now that these Scots came out of Scythia the Irish Historiographers themselves doe report For Nemethus the Scythian and long after him Delas one of Nemethus his progenie that is of the Scythian stocke they reckoned among the first Inhabitants of Ireland Ninnius likewise a Disciple of Eluodugus hath plainly written thus In the fourth age of the world that space I meane which was betweene the building of Salomons Temple and the captivitie of Babylon the Scythians possessed themselves of Ireland And hereto accordeth the authoritie of later writers to wit of Cisnerus in his preface to Crantzius and of Reinerus Reineccius who writeth thus There remaineth yet the nation of the Scots in Britaine sprung from the Scythians c. And yet I verily doubt although the Getae were a Scythicke nation whether the Poet Propertius meaneth those Irish of ours in writing thus Hibernique Getae Pictoque Britannia curru Both Irish Getes and Britaine with her painted chariot But the Scots should lose part of their honour and dignitie unlesse they be brought out of Spaine into Ireland For both they themselves and their Historiographers labour to prove with all their might and maine and good reason I assure you have they so to doe Unlesse therefore wee find Scythians in Spaine all our labour is lost And that Scythians have beene in Spaine to say nothing of a promontorie or point among the Cantabri called Scythicum next unto Ireland and how that Strabo writeth that the Cantabri and Scythians sorted well together in their deportment Silius Italicus a Spaniard borne doth most plainely declare for by these verses he sheweth that the Concani a nation of Cantabria were begotten of the Massagetae that is Scythians Et quae Massagetem monstrans feritate parentem Cornipedis fusâ satiaris Concane venâ And ye your Parents Massagets in fiercenesse that doe show Hight Concani drinke horses blood as it from veine doth flow And after some few verses betweene hee proveth that the Sarmotae whom all men confesse to have beene Scythians built the Citie Susana in Spaine whiles hee singeth in this note Sarmaticos attollens Susana muros Susana with high Sarmatian wals Of these Sarmatians or Scythians the Luceni whom Orosius placeth in Ireland seem to be descended considering that the Spaniards themseves put Susana among the Lucensians of Spaine like as of those Concani the Gangani of Ireland For the Lucensij and Concani in Cantabria were neighbour nations even as the Luceni and Gangani in that coast of Ireland opposite to Spaine Now if any man demand of me what those Scythians were which came into Spaine Verily I know not unlesse a man would thinke them to have beene Germans And I could wish that the Scots themselves would enter into a more serious and deepe consideration of this point But that the Germans long agoe entred into Spaine beside Plinie who calleth the Oretani in Spaine Germans Seneca which was a Spaniard borne will enforme us The mountaine Pyrenaeus saith he stopped not the passage of the Germans the levitie of men made shift to enter through places scant passable and unknowne And that the Germans were called Scythians we gather not onely out of Ephorus and Strabo who termed all the nations in the North Scythians but also out of Plinie The name of Scythians quoth he extendeth it selfe farre and wide every way even to the Samaritans and Germans Aventinus also witnesseth that Germans were by the Hungarians called Scythae and Scythulae And to derive descent from a Scythian stock cannot be thought any waies dishonourable seeing that the Scythians as they are most
Earles of Anjou Poictou Maine and Bulloigne and unto them he promiseth faire Lands and possessions in England Philip also the French King he goeth unto and solliciteth voluntarily promising in case he aided him to become his vassall and leege man and for England to take the oath of fealtie unto him But it being thought nothing good for the state of France that the Duke of Normandie who already was not so pliable and obedient to the French King as he ought should bee bettered in his state by the addition of England for the power of neighbour potentates is alwaies suspected of Princes so far was the King from yeelding any helpe that he disswaded him rather from invading England But by no meanes could the Duke be reclaimed from his enterprise nay much more encouraged he was now and set on being once backed with warrant from Alexander the Bishop of Rome for even now began the Pope to usurpe authority over Princes who allowing of his cause and quarrell had sent unto him a sacred and hallowed banner as a luckie fore-token of gaining both the victory and Kingdome yea and with all cursed whosoever should oppose themselves against him He assembled therefore all the forces he could possibly raise and gathered together a mighty navie before the Towne of Saint Valeries which standeth upon the mouth of the river Some where he lay a long time windbound For the procurement whereof with many a vow he importuned Saint Valeric the patron-Saint of the Towne and heaped upon him a number of gifts and oblations Harold who with his forces had waited very long in vaine for his comming determined to dissolve his armie to withdraw his navie and to leave the sea-coast both for that he was compelled thereto for want of provision as also because the Earle of Flanders had written unto him that William would not stirre that yeere whom he soone beleeved as thinking that the time of the yeere was such as had locked up the seas and barred all navigation forasmuch as the autumnall Aequinox was neere Whiles he thus deviseth with himselfe driven he was upon an unexpected necessity of new warre to call backe his armie for Harold surnamed the Hard and Harfager king of Norway who had practised piracie in the North parts of Britaine and already subdued the Isles of Orknes being by Tosto sollicited and called forth in hope of the Kingdome of England arrived within the mouth of the river Tine with a fleet of 500. flibotes or thereabout where Tosto also came and joined his owne fleet When they had a good while forraged and spoiled the countrey heere they weighed anchor and sailing along the coast of Yorkshire put into Humbre and there began to commit outrages with all manner of hostility For the repressing of whom the two Earles Edwin and Morcar led forth a power of soldiers whom they had raised suddainly and in tumultuary haste but they not able to abide the violent charge of the Norwegians fled for the most part as fast as they could and together with the Earles made shift to escape howbeit many of them passing over the river Ouse were swallowed up with the waves thereof The Norwegianâ—â—hen goe in hand to lay siege unto the Citie of Yorke which straight waies they get by surrender hostages being given on both sides But after some few dayes King Harold having gathered his whole power from all parts together speedeth him to Yorke and from thence marcheth against the Norwegians who lay encamped strongly in a most safe place for backed they were with the Ocean flanked on the left hand with Humber wherein their fleet rid at anchor and had for their defence on the right side and afront the river Derwent Howbeit King Harold couragiously setteth upon them where first there was a cruell conflict at the Bridge standing over the river Darwent which one Norwegian souldier by report made good for a time against the whole armie of the Englishmen and held out so long untill he was shot through with a dart and died after this continued the battell a good while within the very campe fought with equall valour and indifferent fortune on both sides But in the end the Norwegians were disarraied and scattered and in the midst of the battell Harold himselfe King of the Norwegians and Tosto with the greater part of the Armie lost their lives Vpon this Victorie there fell unto King Harold an exceeding rich bootie a great masse both of gold and silver and that huge Armado except twentie small Barques onely which he granted unto Paul Earle of Orkney and Olave the Sonne of Harold who was slaine for to carry away those that were hurt taking their oath first that from thence forward they should not attempt any hostilitie agaist England This happie victorie encourged Harold and set him aloft now he thought that he should bee a terrour yea to the Normans howsoever hee grew odious unto his owne people because hee had not divided the spoile among his souldiers Howbeit wholly hee employed himselfe to reforme the disordered state of the countrey which in this part was pittifully out of frame and lay neglected Meane while Willam Duke of Normandie finding a fit season for his purpose about the end of September weighed anchor and launched forth then with a gentle gale of winde he sailed with all his shipping and arrived at Pevensey in Sussex where being landed upon the naked shore for to cut off all hope of return from his men he did set fire on his ships and having erected a fortresse there for his men to retire thither in safetie forward he marcheth to Hastings where also he raised another strong hold and placed therein a garrison Now by this time he maketh proclamation declaring the causes of this warre namely to revenge the death of Alfred his Cousin whom together with many Normans Godwin the Father of Harold had murthered Item to bee avenged of the wrongs that Harold had done who when he had banished Robert Archbishop of Canterburie even then by intrusion entred upon the Kingdome of England now pertaining to him treading under foot the religious respect of his oath Howbeit by an Edict he straightly charged his souldiers not in hostile manner to spoile the English men Newes hereof in all hast was brought to King Harold who by all meanes thinking it good to use prevention and as spedily as might be to encounter the Duke sendeth out his messengers every way calleth earnestly upon his subjects to continue in their faithfull allegiance assembleth all his forces in every place and with great journies hasteneth to London where there presented himselfe unto him an Embassadour from Duke William but as he made many words in claiming the Kingdom Harold in a furious fit of anger and indignation went within a little of laying violent hands upon the very person of the Embassadour For a hard matter it was to bereave a fresh Victour
by fine force and true valour indeed get the upperhand betooke himselfe to stratagems commanding his men to sound the retreat and keeping them still in good order and array to give ground and retire The English men supposing now that they turned backe and fled and that themselves had the victorie in their hands display their ranks and being thus disraied presse hard upoÌ„ their enemies as making full account that the day was now sure enough theirs Wheras the Normans casting themselves suddenly againe into array and winding about charge the English afresh and thus setting upon them being scattered and out of order enclosed them round about and made an exceeding great slaughter of them Many of them whiles they stood doubtfull whether to fight or to flie were borne downe and slaine but more of them having recovered an higher ground casting themselves round into a ring and comforted with the exhortation one of another with good resolution turned head and resisted a long time as if they had made choice of that place for an honorable death until that Harold being shot through the head with an arrow together with his two brethren Gyth Leofwin lost his life Then Edwin and Morcar with some others that remained alive and escaped by flight yielded to the hand of God and gave place unto the time considering that the battell had continued without intermission from seven of the clock in the morning unto the evening twilight There were in this battell missed of Normans much about 6000. but of English many more by far William now Conqueror rejoyced exceedingly by way of a solemne supplication or procession which he appointed gave all honor to the Almightie and most gratious God and when he had erected his pavilion in the midst of the bodies lying slain by heapes there he passed that night The morrow after when he had buried his owne men granted leave unto the English men to do the like himselfe returned to Hastings partly to consult about following the traine of his victorie and in part to refresh awhile his wearied souldiers No sooner was the newes of this grievous overthrow by fearfull Messengers brought to London and to other cities of England but the whole land generally was striken into dumps and as it were astonied Githa the Kings mother like a woman gave her selfe to plaints and lamentations so as that she would admit no consolation but with most humble praiers intreated the Conquerour for the dead bodies of her sonnes And those she enterreth in the Abbey of Waltham Edwin sendeth Queen Algitha his sister into the farther parts of the Kingdome But the Lords and Peeres of the Realme will the people not to cast downe their hearts but lay their heads together about the State and Common wealth The Archbishop of Yorke the Citizens of London and the Sea souldiers whom they called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 gave their advice to consecrate Edgar King and to begin warre againe with William Edwin and Morcar plotted secretly to usurpe the Imperiall rule and dignitie for themselves but the Bishops Prelates and others who were terrified with the flashing thunderbolts of the Popes curse thought best to yield and not by doubtfull battell to provoke the Conquerours heavie indignation against them nor to strive against God who now for the sinnes of the people calling for vengeance had delivered England as it wâ—re into the hands of the Norman William all this while fortifying the Towne of Hastings purposed to march directly with his armie in warlike manner to London but because he would raise the greater terrour abroad and make all sure behinde having divided his forces he rangeth over part of Kent over Southsex Suthrey Southampton shire and Berk shire fireth villages and upland houses driveth booties at Wallangford hee passeth over the Thames and terrifieth all the countrey as hee goeth Yet for all this the Nobles and Peeres wist not what counsell or course to take neither could they be brought to lay downe private grudges and enmities and with one heart to consult in common for the good of the State The Prelates to be absolved from curses of the Church and censures of the Bishop of Rome whereby he now exercised his authoritie not only over mens soules but also over Kingdomes seeing that the state of the Realme was now not decaied but quite ruinate and past recoverie persisted in this mind to submit in so much as many seeking to save themselves secretly departed out of the Citie But Alfred Archbishop of Yorke Wolstan Bishop of Worcester and other Prelates together with Eadgar Aetheling Edwin and Morcar at Berkhamsted doe meete the Norman Conquerour who made them many and large promises and having given hostages committed themselves to his protection and submitted Then forthwith speedeth he to London where being received with great and joyfull acclamations he was saluted King for the solemnizing of his Coronation which he appointed should be on Christmas day he made all the preparation that might bee and meane while bent his whole mind and all his thoughts to the setling of the State Now was the period and revolution of the English-Saxons Empire in Britaine come about which was determined within the compasse of 607. yeeres and a notable alteration and change made in the Kingdome of England which some lay upon the base a varice of the Magistrates and the superstitious lazinesse of the Prelates others impute to that Comet or blazing Starre and the powerable influence of celestiall bodies some againe made God the Author thereof who in his secret judgements and those never unjust disposeth of Kingdomes Others also there were who looked into neerer secondarie causes and they found a great want and lacke of wisedome in King Edward in that whiles under a goodly shew and pretext of religious and vowed virginitie he casting off all care of having issue exposed the Kingdome for a prey to ambitious humours WHat an insolent and bloudie victorie this was the Monks that write of it have declamed with full mouth neither is it to be doubed but in this Victorie as it hapneth in other wickednes tooke head and bare the full sway William the Conquerour in token as it were of a Trophee for this conquest abrogated some part of the ancient positive lawes of England brought in some Customes of Normandie and by vertue of a decree commanded That all causes should be pleaded in the French tongue The English hee thrust out of their ancient Inheritances assigned their lands and Lord-ships to his souldiers yet with this reservation to himself that he should still remaine chiefe Lord and bind them to doe due service and homage unto him and his successors that is to say That all of them should hold their lands in Fee or fealty He caused also a Seale for himselfe to be made of purpose with this inscription upon the one side Hôc Normannorum Guilielmum nosce Patronum The Normans Patron William know by this stamp that you
Diocesses Lucius the Pope in Gratian insinuateth thus much that the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdictions of the Christians followed the Iurisdictions of the Roman Magistrates and that Archbishops had their Seas in those cities wherein the Romane Presidents in times past made their abode The Cities and places saith he in which Primats ought to sit and rule were appointed not by the Moderne but long before the comming of Christ to the Primats of which Cities c. the Gentile also appealed in matters of greater importance And in those verie cities after Christs comming the Apostles and their Successors placed Patriarks or Primats unto whom the affaires of the Bishops and greater causes ought to be preferred Whereas therefore Britaine had in old time three Archbishops to wit of London of Yorke and Caerleon in Southwales I suppose that the Province which now we call of Canterburie for thither the Sea of London was translated made BRITANNIA PRIMA Wales under the Citie of Caer Leon was BRITANNIA SECVNDA and the Province of York which then reached unto the Limit or Borders made MAXIMAA CAESARIENSIS In the age next ensuing when the forme of the Roman Empire was daily changing either through ambition that more men might attaine to places of honour or the warie forecast of the Emperours that the power of their Presidents which grew over great might be taken downe and abridged they divided Britaine into five parts to wit BRITANNIA PRIMA SECVNDA MAXIMA CAESARIENSIS VALENTIA FLAVIA CAESARIENSIS VALENTIA seemeth to have been the northerly part of Maxiâ—â— Caesariensis which being usurped and held by the Picts and Scots Theodosius Generall under Valens the Emperour recovered out their hands and in honour of him named it Valentia which Marcellinus sheweth more plainly in these words The Province now recovered which was fallen into the enemies hands he restored to the former state in such sort as by his own procuring it had both a lawful governor was also afterwards called VALENTIA at the pleasure of the Prince Now that the son of this Theodosius who being created Emperour was named Flavius Theodosius and altered very many things in the Empire added Flavia we may very wel conjecture for that before the time of this Flavius wee read no where of BRITANNIA FLAVIA Wherefore to make up this matter in few words All the south coast which of one side lieth between the British sea and the river Thames with the Severn sea on the other side was called BRITANNIA PRIMA BRITANNIA SECVNDA was that which now is Wales FLAVIA CAESARIENSIS reacheth from Thames to Humber MAXIMA CAESARIENSIS from Humber to the river of Tine or the wall of Severus VALENTIA from Tine to the wall or rampier neere Edenburgh which the Scots call Gramesdike and was the utmost limit of the Roman Empire in this Island when this last division was in use And now I cannot chuse but note some want of judgement in certaine men who otherwise being very learned doe reckon Scotland in this account which some of them make to have beene Maxima Caesariensis and others Britannia Secunda As if forsooth the Romans neglected not that part of the Island lying under a cold climate and reckoned here those Provinces onely which they governed by Consular Lieutenants and Presidents for Maxima Caesariensis and Valentia were ruled by Consular Lieutenants Britannia Prima Secunda and Flavia by Presidents Now if any man would have me render a reason of this my division and accuse me as a false bounderer and surveior let him heare in briefe what hath induced mee to this opinion Having observed thus much that the Romans alwaies called those Provinces PRIMAS which lay nighest to Rome as Germania Prima Belgica Prima Lugdunensis Prima Aquitania Prima Panninia Prima all which lay neerer to Rome than those that were named Secundae and that these Primae were by the finer sort of writers termed Superiores or higher the Secundae Inferiores or Lower I resolved that the South-part of our Island and neerer to Rome was Britannia Prima By the same reason seeing the Provinces Secundae as they call them were more remote from Rome I supposed Wales was the Britannia Secunda Moreover having noted this also that in the decaying State of their Empire those Provinces onely had Consular Magistrates which lay against the enemies not onely in Gaule but also in Africke as appeareth in the booke of Notices also that in the said Booke Valentia with us and Maxima Caesariensis be accounted Consular Provinces I have judged them being next and exposed to the Scots and Picts to lie in those places which I have spoken of I can doe no other but guesse that Flavia Caesariensis here was in the midst betweene them all and in the very heart of England and so much the more confidently because that ancient writer Giraldus Cambrensis is just of the same opinion with me And thus much of the Divisions of Britaine under the Romans Afterwards when the Barbarians made invasion on every side and civill war daily increased among the Britans the Island as bereft of all life and vigour lay for a time languishing and forlorne without any shew at all of government But at length that part which inclineth to the North became two Kingdomes to wit of the Scots and the Picts and the Romans Pentarchie or five portions in this hither part became in processe of time the Heptarchie or seven Kingdomes of the Saxons For they divided the whole Province of the Romans setting Wales aside which the remnant of Britans possessed into seven Kingdomes that is to say Kent Southsex East-England Westsex Northumberland Eastsex and Mercia But what this Heptarchie of the English-Saxons was and what their names were in those daies in this chorographical table here adjoyned you may if you please behold Considering that in a Chorographicall Table or Map by reason of so narrow a roome those Regions or Counties which these Kingdomes contained could not well and handsomely bee described In this other Table heere rather than by heaping many words together I thinke good to propose and set downe the same that the Reader may once for all have a view of them The Saxons Heptarchie 1 The Kingdome of KENT contained the Countie of Kent 2 The Kingdom of SVSSEX or Southern Saxons contained the Counties of Suthsex Suthrey 3 The Kingdome of EAST-ENGLAND or East-Angles contained the Counties of Norfolke Suthfolke Cambridge shire with the Isle of Ely 4 The Kingdome of WESTSEX or West-Angles contained the Counties of Cornwall Devonshire Dorsetshire Somersetshire Wiltshire Southampton Berkshire 5 The Kingdome of NORTHVMBERLAND contained the Counties of Lancaster Yorke Durham Cumberland Westmorland Northumberland and the Countries of Scotland to Edenburgh-frith 6 The Kingdome of EAST-SEX or East-Saxons contained the Counties of Essex Middlesex and part of Hertfordshire 7 The Kingdome of MERCIA contained the Counties of Glocester shire Herefordshire Worcestershire Warwickshire Leicestershire Rotlandshire
Reeds which the Britaines call Hesk wherewith Northerne nations and such are the Britaines thatched and covered their houses yea and fastened together as it were with soder the joynts of their ships But considering that there be no reeds heere found I am not hasty to give credit thereto This river hath his head and springeth first in a weely and barren ground named Exmore neere unto Severn sea a great part whereof is counted within Sommersetshire and wherein there are seene certaine monuments of anticke worke to wit Stones pitched in order some triangle wise others in a round circle and one among the rest with an Inscription in Saxon letters or Danish rather to direct those as it should seeme who were to travaile that way Now this Ex or Isc beginning his course first from thence Southward by Twifordton so called of two foords but commonly Teverton a Towne standing much upon clothing to the great gaine and credit thereof passeth forward through a faire country of good and fertile fields and is augmented with two especial rivelets Creden from the West and Columb from the East Upon Creden in the Primitive Church of the Saxons there flourished an Episcopall See in a Towne of the same name anciently called Cridiantun now by contraction Kirton where that Winifride or Boniface was borne who converted the Hessians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany unto Christ and for that was accounted the Apostle of Germany and canonized a Saint At this present it is of no great reckoning but for a small market and the Bishop of Exceter his house there but within our fathers remembrance of much greater name and request it was for a Colledge there of twelve Prebendaries who now are all vanished and gone The river Columb that commeth from the East passeth hard by Columbton a little Towne bearing his name which King Alfred by his Testament bequeathed to his younger sonne and neere unto Poltimore the seate of that worshipfull and right ancient family of Bampfield intermingleth it selfe with the waters of Ex. And now by this time Isc or Ex growing bigger and sporting himselfe as it were with spreading into many streames very commodious for mils hieth apace and commeth close to the Citie of Excester unto which he leaveth his name whereupon Alexander Necham writeth thus in his Poem of Divine sapience Exoniae fama celeberimus Iscianomen Praebuit To Excester Ex a River of fame First Iscia call'd impos'd the name This Citie Ptolomee calleth ISCA Antoninus ISCA DVNMONIORVM for DANMONIORVM others but falsely Augusta as if the second Legion Augusta had there beene resident Whereas wee shall shew hereafter that it kept station and residence in ISCA SILVRVM The English Saxons termed it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Monketon of the Monks at this day it is called Excester in Latine Exonia in British Caerisk Caeauth and Pencaer that is a head or principall Citie For Caer to tell you once for all with our Britans is as much to say as a Citie whereupon they use to name Jerusalem Caer Salem Lutetia or Paris Caer Paris Rome Caer Ruffaine Thus Carthage in the Punick tongue was called as Solinus witnesseth Cartheia that is the new Citie I have heard likewise that Caer in the Syriack tongue signified a Citie Now seeing that the Syrians as all men confesse peopled the whole world with their Colonies it may seeme probable that they left their tongue also to their posteritie as the mother of all future languages This Citie as saith William of Malmesbury albeit the soile adjoyning bee wet foule and wealie scarce able to bring forth hungry oates and many times emptie huskes without graine in them yet by reason of the statelinesse of the place the riches of the Inhabitants and frequent concourse of strangers all kind of traffique and commerce of merchants is there so fresh that a man can aske there for no necessary but hee may have it Scituate it is on the Eastward banke of the river Ex upon a little hill gently arising with an easie ascent to a pretty heighth the pendant whereof lieth East and West environed about with ditches and very strong walles having many turrets orderly interposed and containeth in circuit a mile and a halfe having suburbs running out a great way on each side In it there are xv Parish-Churches and in the very highest part thereof neere the East gate a Castle called Rugemont sometime the seat of the West Saxon Kings and afterwards of the Earles of Cornwall but at this day commended for nothing else but the antiquitie and scituation thereof For it commandeth the whole Citie and territorie about it and hath a very pleasant prospect into the sea In the East quarter of the City is to be seen the Cathedrall Church in the midst of many faire houses round about it founded as the private history of the place witnesseth by King Athelstan in the honour of Saint Peter and replenished with Monks which Church at length Edward the Confessor after he had remooved some of the Monks from thence to Westminster and translated thither the Bishops Sees of Cornwall and Kirton adorned with Episcopall Dignitie and made Leofrike the Britan first Bishop there whose Successours augmented the Church both with Edifices and also with revenues and William Bruier the ninth Bishop after him when the Monks were displaced brought in a Deane and twentie and foure Prebendaries In which age flourished Joseph Iscanus borne heere and from hence taking his surname a Poet of most excellent wit whose writings were so well approved as that they had equall commendation with the works of ancient Poets For his Poem of the Trojan war was divulged once or twice in Germanie under the name of Cornelius Nepos When this Citie Isca came under the Roman Jurisdiction it appeareth not for certaine For so farre off am I from thinking that Vespasian wonne it as Geffrey of Monmouth affirmeth what time as he warring in Britaine under Claudius the Emperour was shewed by the Destinies unto the world that I thinke it was then scarcely built Yet in the time of the Antonines it may seeme to have beene well knowne for hither and no farther this way did Antonine specifie any place in his way-faring book It came not fully to the English-Saxons hands before the 465. yeare after their entrance into Britain For at that time Athelstane expelled the Britans quite out of the Citie who before had inhabited it in equall right with the Saxons yea and drave them beyond Tamar and then fortified the Citie round about with a rampire and wall of fouresquare stone and other bulwarks for defence Since which time many benefits by the Kings have beene bestowed upon it and among the rest as we read in William the Conquerours booke This Citie paide no tribute but when London Yorke and Winchester paide and that was halfe a marke of silver for a souldiers service And when there was
fuit Hinc abiens illinc meritorum fulget honore Hic quoque gestorum lande perennis erit Two mountaines high that reach the stars two tops of Sion Faire From Libanon two cedar trees their flouring heads doe beare Two royall gates of highest heaven two lights that men admire Paul thundreth with his voice aloft Peter he flasheth fire Of all the Apostles crowned crew whose raies right glittering bee Paul for deepe learning doth excell Peter for high degree The one doth open the hearts of men the other heaven doore For Peter lets those into heaven whom Paul had taught before As one by meanes of doctrine shewes the way how heaven to win By vertue so of th' others Keys men quickly enter in Paul is a plaine and ready way for men to heaven hie And Peter is as sure a gate for them to passe thereby This is a rocke remaining firme a Master builder hee Twixt these a Church and altar both to please God built we see Rejoice ô England willingly For Rome doth greet thee well The glorious Apostles light in Glaston now doe dwell Two bulwarks strong afront the Foe are rais'd These towres of faith In that this Citie holds the head even of the world it hath These monuments King Ina gave of perfect meere good will Vnto his subjects whose good deeds remaine and shall doe still He with his whole affection in godlinesse did live And holy Church to amplifie great riches also give Well might he our Melchisedech a Priest and King be thought For he the true religious worke to full perfection brought The lawes in common weale he kept and state in Court beside The onely Prince that prelats grac'd and them eke rectifide And now departed hence to heaven of right he there doth reigne Yet shall the praise of his good deeds with us for ay remaine In this first age of the primitive Church very holy men and the Irish especially applied the service of God in this place diligently who were maintained with allowances from Kings and instructed youth in religion and liberall sciences These men embraced a solitarie life that they might the more quietly studie the Scriptures and by an austere kind of life exercise themselves to the bearing of the crosse But at length Dunstane a man of a subtile wit and well experienced when he had once by an opinion of his singular holinesse and learning wound himselfe into the inward acquaintance of Princes in stead of these brought in Monks of a later order called Benedictines and himselfe first of all others became the Abbat or ruler heere of a great covent of them who had formerly and afterward gotten at the hands of good and godly Princes a royall revenue And having reigned as it were in all affluence 600. yeres for all their neighbours round about were at their beck they were by K. Henry the Eighth dispossessed thrust out of all this their Monastery which was growne now to be a prety Citie environed with a large wall a mile about replenished with stately buildings was razed and made even with the ground and now onely sheweth evidently by the ruines thereof how great and how magnificent a thing it was Now I might be thought one of those that in this age have vanities in admiration if I should tell you of a Walnut tree in the holy Churchyard heere that never did put forth leafe before S. Barnabees feast and upon that very day was rank and full of leaves but that is now gone and a young tree in the place as also of the Hawthorne in Wiral-park hard by which upon Christmasday sprouteth forth as well as in May. And yet there bee very many of good credit if we may beleeve men of their word who avouch these things to be most true But before I returne from hence I wil briefly set downe unto you that which Giraldus Cambrensis an eie-witnesse of the thing hath more at large related touching Arthurs Sepulchre in the Churchyard there When Henrie the Second King of England tooke knowledge out of the Songs of British Bards or Rhythmers how Arthur that most noble Worthy of the Britans who by his Martial prowesse had many a time daunted the fury of the English-Saxons lay buried heere betweene two Pyramides or sharpe-headed pillars hee caused the bodie to be searched for and scarcely had they digged seven foot deepe into the earth but they lighted upon a Tomb or Grave-stone on the upper face whereof was fastened a broad Crosse of lead grosly wrought which being taken forth shewed an inscription of letters and under the said stone almost nine foot deeper was found a Sepulchre of oake made hollow wherin the bones of that famous Arthur were bestowed which Inscription or Epitaph as it was sometime exemplified and drawn out of the first Copie in the Abbey of Glascon I thought good for the antiquitie of the characters here to put downe The letters being made after a barbarous maner resembling the Gothish Character bewray plainely the barbarisme of that age when ignorance as it were by fatall destinie bare such sway that there was none to be found by whose writings the renowne of Arthur might bee blazed and commended to posteritie A matter and argument doubtlesse meet to have beene handled by the skill and eloquence of some right learned man who in celebrating the praises of so great a prince might have wonne due commendation also for his owne wit For the most valiant Champian of the British Empire seemeth even in this behalfe onely most unfortunate that hee never met with such a trumpetter as might worthily have sounded out the praise of his valour But behold the said Crosse and Epitaph therein Neither will it be impertinent if I annex hereunto what our Countrey man Ioseph a Monke of Excester no vulgar and triviall Poet versified sometime of Arthur in his Poeme Antiocheis wherein he described the warres of the Christians for recoverie of the Holy Land and was there present with King Richard the First speaking of Britaine Hinc celebri fato foelici claruit ortu Flos Regum Arthurus cujus cúm facta stupori Non micuere minús totus quód in aure voluptas Et populo plaudente favus Quemcunque priorum Inspice Pelaeum commendat fama tyrannum Pagina Caesareos loquitur Romana triumphos Alcidem domitis attollit gloria monstris Sed nec pinetum coryli nec sydera solem Aequant Annales Latios Graiosque revolve Prisca parem nescit aequalem postera nullum Exhibitura dies Reges supereminet omnes Solus praeteritis melior majorque futuris For famous death and happie birth hence flourish'd next in place Arthur the flower of noble Kings whose acts with lovely grace Accepted and admired were in peoples mouth and eare No lesse than if sweet hony they or pleasant musicke were See former Princes and compare his worth even with them all That King in Pella borne whom we great Alexander call The trumpe
over-head right daintily which William Knight the Bishop and Wolman the Deane founded for the use of people resorting thither to the Market Thus much of the East-part of the towne In the West-side thereof I have seene the parish Church of Saint Cuthberts next unto which standeth an Hospitall founded by Nicolas Burwith Bishop for foure and twentie poore people Out of those Mendip or Mine-hils springeth the River Frome which running East-ward by Cole-pits before it hath held on a long course that way turneth North-ward and serveth in stead of a bound confining this shire and Gloceste-shire and passeth hard under Farley a Castle not long since of the Lord Hungerfords scituate upon a Rocke where Humfrey Bohun built sometime a Monkerie not farre from Philips Norton a greate Market-towne which tooke the name of a Church consecrate to Saint Philip. Lower than it Selwood whereof I spake erewhile spreadeth long and large a wood standing well and thicke of trees whereof the country round about adjoyning was named as Ethelward mine Author writeth Selwoodshire and a towne steepely seated thereby is yet called Frome Selwood which gaineth very much by the trade of cloathing From which Westward not full two miles there sheweth it selfe a Castle little though it be yet fine and trim consisting of foure round Turrets which being built by the Delamares and named thereupon Monney de la Mare from them came by way of inheritance to the Powlets And not farre from thence is Witham where King Henry the Third erected a Nunnerie which afterward was the first house and as it were mother to the Carthusians or Charter-house Monks in England as Hinton not far off neere Farley Castle was the second And now by this time Frome grown bigger by some rivelets issuing out of this wood joyneth with the noble river Avon which holding on a crooked course runneth anone to that ancient Citie which of the hote Bathes Ptolomee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Hote waters Antoninus AQVAE SOLIS that is The waters of the Sunne the Britaines Yr ennaint Twymin and Caer Badon the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and of the concourse thither of diseased people Akmanchester that is The Citie of sickely folke Stephanus nameth it Badiza we at this day Bath and the Latinists commonly Bathonia Seated it is low in a plaine and the same not great environed round about with hills almost all of one height out of which certaine rilles of fresh river waters continually descend into the Citie to the great commoditie of the Citizens Within the Citie it selfe there bubble boile up three springs of hote water of a blewish or sea-colour sending up from them thin vapours and a kind of a strong sent withall by reason that the water is drilled and strained through veines of Brimstone and a clammy kind of earth called Bitumen Which springs are very medicinable and of great vertue to cure bodies over-charged and benummed as it were with corrupt humours For by their heat they procure sweat and subdue the rebellious stubbornnesse of the said humors Yet are not they wholesome at all houres For from eight of the clocke in the forenoone unto three after noone they are in manner skalding hote and doe worke and being thus troubled cast up from the bottome certaine filth during which time they are shut neither may any body goe into them untill by their sluces they clense themselves and rid away that filthinesse Of these three The Crosse Bath so called of a crosse standing upright in old time in the midst of it is of a very mild and temperate warmth and hath twelve seates of stone about the brinke or border thereof and is enclosed within a wall The second distant from this not fully 200. foot is much hotter whereupon it is termed Hote Bathe Adjoyning to these is a Spittle or Lazar house built by Reginald Bishop of Bath for the reliefe of poore diseased persons And those two are in the midst of a Street on the West-side of the Citie The third which is the greatest and after a sort in the very bosome and heart of the Citie is called the Kings Bath neere unto the Cathedrall Church walled also round about and fitted with 32. seates of arched worke wherein men and women may sit apart who when they enter in put upon their bodies linnen garments and have their guides Where the said Cathedrall Church now standeth there was in ancient time as the report goeth a Temple consecrated to Minerva Certes Solinus Polyhistor speaking no doubt of these hote Bathes saith thus In Britaine there are hot springs very daintily adorned and kept for mens use the patronesse of which fountaines is the Goddesse Minerva in whose Temple the perpetuall fire never turneth ashes and dead coales but when the fire beginneth to die it turnes into round masses of stone Howbeit Athenaeus writeth that all hote Bathes which naturally breake out of the bowels of the earth are sacred to Hercules And in very deede there is to bee seene in the walles of this Citie an ancient Image such as it is of Hercules grasping in his hand a Snake among other old monuments by the injurie of time now altogether defaced But that we may not contend about this matter let us grant if it be so thought good that Bathes were consecrated to Hercules and Minerva joyntly For the Greekes doe write that Pallas first ministred water unto Hercules for to bath him after he had atchieved his labours For my purpose it shall suffice if I be able to prove by the authoritie of Solinus who writeth that Pallas was the Patronesse of these Bathes this Citie to be the same which the Britans in their tongue called Caer Palladdur that is The Citie of Pallas-water or Vrbs Palladiae Aquae if a man turne it into Latine For the matter the name and signification doe most fitly agree The finding out of these Bathes our Fables attribute to the King of Britans Bleyden Cloyth that is Bleyden the Magician but with what probabilitie that I leave to others Plinie indeed affirmeth that the Britans in old time used the practice of magick with so great ceremonies that it seemed they taught it the Persians yet dare I not ascribe these Bathes to any art magicall Some of our writers when their minds were busied in other matters report Iulius Caesar to have beene the first finder of them But my opinion is that later it was ere the Romans had knowledge of them seeing Solinus is the first that hath made mention of them The English-Saxons about the 44. yeare after their comming into Britaine when they had broken league and covenant and kindled againe the coales of war which had already beene quenched besieged this Citie But when the warlike Arthur came upon them they tooke the hill named Mons Badâ—nicus where when couragiously a long while they had fought it out to the uttermost a great number of them
were slaine This hill seemeth to be the very same which now is called Bannesdowne over a little village neere this Citie which they call Bathstone on which there are bankes and a rampier as yet to be seene Yet some there be I know who seeke for this hill in Yorkshire But Gildas may bring them backe againe to this place For in a manuscript Copie within Cambridge-Librarie where he writeth of the victorie of Aurelius Ambrose thus we read Vntill that yeare wherein siege was laid to the hill of Badonicus which is not farre from Severne mouth But in case this may not perswade them know they that the vale which runneth here along the river Avon is named in British Nant Badon that is The Vale of Badon and where we should seeke for the hill Badonicus but by the Vale Badonica I cannot hitherto see Neither durst the Saxons for a long time after set upon this Citie but left it for a great while to the Britans Howbeit in the yeare of Christ 577. when Cowalin King of the West-Saxons had defeated the Britans at Deorbam in Glocestershire being both straightly besieged and also assaulted it yeilded at first and within few yeares recovering some strength grew up to great dignity and therewith got a new name Ackmancester as I said For Osbrich in the yeare 676. founded a Nunnery there and immediately after when the Mercians had gotten it under them King Offa built another Church both which in the time of the Danish broiles were overthrowne Out of the ruines of these two arose afterwards the Church of S. Peter in which Eadgar surnamed the Peace-maker being crowned and sacred King bestowed upon the Citie very many Immunities the memorie of which thing the Citizens yearely with Solemne plaies doe yet celebrate In Edward the Confessors time as we read in Domes-booke of England it paied tribute according to 20. Hides when as the Shire paid There the King had 64. Burgers and 30. Burgers of others But this prosperitie of theirs endured not long for soone after the Normans comming in Robert Mowbray Nephew to the Bishop of Constance who had raised no small Sedition against King William Rufus sacked and burned it Yet in short space it revived and recovered it selfe by meanes of Iohn de Villula of Tours in France who being Bishop of Welles for five hundred markes as saith William of Malmesburie purchased this Citie of King Henry the First and translated his Episcopall chaire hither retaining also the title of Bishop of Welles and for his owne See built a new Church which being not long since ready to fal Olivar Bishop of Bathe began to found another hard by that old a curious and stately piece of worke I assure you and almost finished the same Which if he had performed indeed it would no doubt have surpassed the most Cathedrall Churches of England But the untimely death of so magnificent a Bishop the iniquitie and troubles of the time and the suppression of religious houses ensuing with the late avarice of some who have craftily conveied the money collected throughout England for that use another way if it be true that is reported have envied it that glory But neverthelesse this Citie hath flourished as well by clothing as by reason of usuall concourse thither for health twice every yeare yea and hath fortified it selfe with walles wherein there are set certaine Antique Images and Roman Inscriptions for the proofe of their antiquitie which now by age are so eaten into and worne that they can hardly be read And that nothing might be wanting to the state and dignitie of Bathe some noble men it hath honoured with the title of Earle For we read that Philibert of Chandew descended out of Bretaigne in France was by King Henry the Seventh stiled with this honor Afterwards King Henrie the Eighth in the 28. yeare of his reigne created Iohn Bourcher Lord Fitzwarin Earle of Bathe Who died shortly after leaving by his wife the sister of H. Daubeney Earle of Bridge-water Iohn second Earle of this familie who by the daughter of George Lord Roos had Iohn Lord Fitz-Warin who deceased before his father having by Fr. the daughter of S. Thomas Kitson of Hengrave William now third Earle of Bathe who endeavoureth to beautifie and adorne his nobilitie of birth with commendable studies of good letters The longitude of this Citie is according to Geographers measure 20. degrees and 16. minutes But the Latitude 51. degrees and 21. minutes And now for a farwell loe heere Nechams verses such as they bee of these hot waters at Bathe who lived 400. yeares since Bathoniae thermas vix praefero Virgilianas Confecto prosunt balnea nostra seni Prosunt attritis collisis invalidisque Et quorum morbis frigida causa subest Praevenit humanum stabilis natura laborem Servit naturae legibus artis opus Igne suo succensa quibus data balnea fervent Aenea subter aquas vasa latere putant Errorem figmenta solent inducere passim Sed quid sulphureum novimus esse locum Our Bathes at Bath with Virgils to compare For their effects I dare almost be bold For feeble folke and crasie good they are For bruis'd consum'd far-spent and very old For those likewise whose sicknesse comes of cold Nature prevents the painfull skill of man Arts worke againe helps nature what it can Men thinke these Baths of ours are made thus hot By reason of some secret force of fire Which under them as under brazen pot Makes more or lesse as reason doth require The waters boile and walme to our desire Such fancies vaine use errors forth to bring But what we know from Brimstone veines they spring Have heere also if you list to read them two ancient Inscriptions very lately digged up neere the Citie in Waldcot field hard by the Kings high way side which Robert Chambers a studious lover of antiquities hath translated into his garden From whence I copied them out G. MVRRIVS C. F. ARNIEN SIS FORO IVLI. MODESTVS MIL. LEG II. AD. P. F. IVLI. SECVND AN. XXV STIPEND H. S. E. DIS MANIBVS M. VALERIVS M. POL. EATINVS C. EQ MILES LEG AVG. AN. XXX STIPEND X. H. S. E. I have seene these Antiquities also fastened in the walles on the in-side betweene the North and West gates to wit Hercules bearing his left hand aloft with a club in his right hand In the fragment of a stone in great and faire letters DEC COLONIAE GLEV. VIXIT AN. LXXXVI Then leaves folded in Hercules streining two Snakes and in a grave or Sepulcher-table betweene two little images of which the one holdeth the Horne of Amalthaea in a worse character which cannot easily be read D. M. SVCC PETRONIAE VIXIT ANN. IIII. M. IIII. D. XV. EPO MVLVSET VICTISIRANA FIL. KAR. FEC A little beneath in the fragment of a stone in greater letters VRN IOP Betweene the West and
Under which betweene the confluences of Avon and Frome there is a plaine beset round about with trees yielding a most pleasant walking place South-east where no rivers are to guard it Robert the base sonne of King Henry the First whom they commonly name Robert Rufus and Consull of Glocester because he was Earle of Glocester built a large and strong Castle for the defence of this Citie and of a pious and devout affection appointed every tenth stone to the building of a Chappell neere unto the Priory of S. Iames which he likewise founded by the Citie side This Robert had to wife Mabile the onely daughter and heire of Robert Fitz-Hamon who held this towne by vassalage in Capite of King William Conquerour This Castle was scarcely built when King Stephen besieged it but with lost labour for he was compelled to raise his siege and depart and a few yeares after was imprisoned in the same giving thereby a testimony and proofe how uncertaine the chance of war is Beyond the river Frome which hath a bridge over it at Frome-gate there riseth an high hill with a steepe and crooked ascent so as it is painefull to goe up unto it From whence ye have a most faire and goodly prospect to the Citie and haven underneath This hill in the very top and pitch thereof spreadeth presently into a large greene and even plaine which in the midst is shadowed with a double row and course of trees and among them stands a pulpit of Stone and a Chapell wherein by report lieth enterred Iordan the companion of Augustine the Englishmens Apostle Now it is converted to a Schoole and on both sides to say nothing of the neate and fine houses of private men beautified it is with publike and stately buildings Of the one side was a Collegiat Church called Gaunts of the founder one Henry Gaunt Knight who relinquishing the world in this place betooke himselfe to the service of God but now through the bounty of Thomas Carr a wealthy Citizen converted to the keeping of Orphans on the other side directly over against it stand two Churches dedicated to S. Augustine the one which is the lesse a Parish-Church the other that is greater the Bishops Cathedrall Church endowed with sixe Prebendaries by King Henrie the Eighth the greatest part whereof is now destroied where the Colledge-gate workemanly built carrieth in the front this Inscription REX HENRICVS II. ET DOMINVS ROBERTVS FILIVS HARDINGI FILII REGIS DACIAE HVIVS MONASTERII PRIMI FVNDATORES EXTITERVNT That is King Henry the Second and Lord Robert the sonne of Harding the King of Denmarks sonne were the first founders of of this Monasterie This Robert called by the Normans Fitz-Harding descended of the bloud royall of Denmarke was an Alderman of Bristow of King Henry the Second so entirely beloved that by his meanes Maurice his sonne married the daughter of the Lord of Barkley Whereby his posteritie who flourished in great honor are unto this day called Barons of Barkley and some of them have beene buried in this Church From hence as Avon holdeth on his course there are on each side very high cliffes by nature set there as it were of purpose the one of them which on the East-side overlooketh the river beareth the name of S. Vincents rocke so full of Diamonds that a man may fill whole strikes or bushels of them These are not so much set by because they be so plentious For in bright and transparent colour they match the Indian Diamonds if they passe them not in hardnesse onely they are inferior to them but in that nature her self hath framed them pointed with sixe cornerd or foure cornerd smooth sides I thinke them therefore worthy to be had in greater admiration The other rock also on the West-side is likewise full of Diamonds which by the wonderfull skill and worke of nature are enclosed as young ones within the bowels of hollow and reddish flints for here is the earth of a red colour When Avon hath left these rocks behind him with full channell at length he disengorgeth himselfe into the Severn-sea Then remaineth now to reckon up the Earles and Dukes of this County The first Earle of Somerset by tradition was William de Mâ—hun or Moion who may seeme to be the very same whom Maude the Empresse in a charter whereby she created William de Mandevill Earle of Essex taketh as a witnesse under this name Comes W. de Moion Neither from that time meete we with any expresse and apparent mention of Earles of Somerset unlesse it be in these letters Patents of King Henrie the Third unto Peter de Mawley which that I may draw out the judgement of others I will heere set downe literally Know yee that we have received the homage of our well beloved Vncle William Earle of Sarisbury for all the lands that he holdeth of us principally for the County or Earledom of Somerset which we have given unto him with all appurtenances for his homage and service saving the royaltie to our selves and therefore we will command you that ye see he have full sesine of the foresaid Earledome and all the appurtinances therto and that ye entermeddle not in any thing from henceforth as touching the County or Earledome aforesaid c. And commandement is given to all Earles Barons Knights and Freeholders of the County of Somerset that unto the same Earle they doe fealtie and homage saving their faith and allegiance unto their soveraigne Lord the King and that from henceforth they be intentive and answerable unto him as their Lord. Whether by these words in the Patent he was Earle of Somerset as also of Denshire for of the same William he wrote likewise in the very same words unto Robert de Courtney I leave for other men to judge Under this King Henry the third as wee finde in a booke written in French which pertaineth to the house of the Mohuns Knights it is recorded that Pope Innocentius in a solemne feast ordained Reginald Mohun Earle de Ests that is as the Author doth interpret it Of Somerset by delivering unto him a golden consecrated rose and an yearely pension to be paied upon the high Altar of S. Pauls in London So that this Reginald may seeme to have beene not properly an Earle but an Apostolicall Earle For so were they termed in those daies who had their creation from the Bishop of Rome like as they were called Earles Imperiall whom the Emperor invested and such had power to institute Notaries and Scribes to legitimate such as were base borne c. under certaine conditions A long time after Iohn de Beaufort the base sonne of Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster by Katherine Swineford being made legitimate by King Richard the Second together with his brethren and sister with consent of the Parliament was preferred to the honor of Earle of Somerset and afterwards created Marquesse Dorset but soone after
gently runneth which breaking forth almost in the North limit of this shire keepeth his course southward and as Aethelward noteth was sometime the bound betweene the Kingdoms of the West-Saxons and the Mercians upon which many great battels from time to time were fought whiles it is but small he slideth under Malmesbury hill and receiving another streame well neare encloseth the place A very proper towne this is and hath a great name for clothing which as wee read in the Eulogie of Histories Cunwallow Mulmutius King of the Britaines built together with Lacok and Tetburie two Castles and named it Caer Baldon which being at length by heat of warres destroyed out of the ruines thereof there arose as writers record a Castle which our Ancestors in their tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at which time the Saxon petie Kings had their royall palace at Caerdurburge now Brokenbridge a little village scarce a mile off Neither verily was this towne for a long time knowne by any other name than Ingelborne untill one Maidulph an Irish Scot a man of great learning and singular holinesse of life taking delight to a pleasant grove that grew up heere under the hill lived for a time a solitary Heremite there and afterwards teaching a Schoole and with his schollers betaking himselfe to a monasticall life built him a little monasterie or Cell From this time of that Maidulph the towne began to bee called Maidulfesburge for Ingleborne termed by Beda Maidulphi Vrbs that is Maidulps Citie and afterwards short Malmesburies and in some of our Histories and ancient Donations made unto this place Meldunum Malduburie and Maldunsburg Among the Disciples of this Maidulph flourished chiefely Aldelme who being elected his successour by the helpe of Eleutherius Bishop of the West-Saxons unto whom the place of right belonged built there a very faire Monasterie and was himselfe the first Abbat thereof of whom also in a certaine manuscript this towne is called Aldelmesbirig But this name soone perished yet the memorie of the man continueth still for canonized he was a Saint and on his festivall day there was heere kept a great Faire at which usuall there is a band of armed men appointed to keepe the peace among so many strangers resorting thither And right worthy is he that his memorie should remaine fresh for ever in regard not onely of his Holinesse but of his learning also as those times were For the first he was of the English nation who wrote in Latine and the first that taught Englishmen the way how to make a Latine verse the which in these verses hee both promised of himselfe and performed Primus ego in patriam mecum modo vita supersit Aonio rediens deducam vertice Musas I will be first God lending life that into country mine From Aon top at my returne shall bring the Muses nine This Adelme after his death Athelstane that Noble Prince chose to be his peculiar protector and tutelar Saint and for that cause bestowed very great immunities upon this towne and enriched the monasterie with a large and ample endowments In which he made choise to bee buried and his monument the Inhabitants shew to this day After Athelstane this Monasterie flourished long in continuall wealth and among other famous Clerks and great Scholars brought forth William surnamed thereof Malmesburiensis unto whom for his learned industry the Histories of England both Civill and Ecclesiasticall are deepely indebted The towne also maintained and upholden as it were by the meanes of the Monasterie was likewise fortified by Roger Bishop of Salisburie who in the beginning of the warres betweene Henrie of Anjou and King Stephen strengthned it with walls and a Castle which being once besieged by King Henrie the Second defended it selfe Moreover that magnificent Bishop both here and at Salisburie built houses for receit very large for cost as sumptuous and for shew right beautifull so even and orderly were the stones couched and laid together that the joynts could not be seene and the whole wall throughout seemed to the eie one entire stone But the Castle not many yeares after by K. Iohns permission was pulled downe to the use of the Monkes for enlarging their monasterie who encreased it still continually both in buildings livings and revenue untill that fatall thunder-clap overthrew all the Monasteries of England Then their lands rents and riches that had beene so many yeares in gathering and heaping up together which were as our Forefathers reputed them The vowes of the faithfull the ransome and redemption of sinnes and the patrimonies of poore people were quite scattered and the very Minster it selfe should have sped no better than the rest but beene demolished had not T. Stumpes a wealthy clothier by much suit but with a greater piece of money redeemed and bought it for the townesmen his neighbours by whom it was converted to a Parish-Church and for a great part is yet standing at this day From this Maiduphus Citie or Malmesburie as Avon runneth it commeth to Dantesey that gave name unto the possessions thereof worshipfull Knights of old time in this tract from whom by the Easterlings commonly called Stradlings it came unto the family of the Danvers Out of which Henry Danvers through the favor of King Iames obtained of late the title and honour of Baron Danvers of Dantesey Sixe miles from hence Avon taketh unto him from the East a Brooke which runneth through Calne an old little towne scituate upon a stony ground having in it a faire Church to commend it at which place when great adoe there was betweene the Monkes and Priests about single life a frequent Provinciall Councell or Synod was holden in the yeare of our redemption 977. But behold whiles they were debating the matter the Convocation house wherein the States sat by breaking of the maine timber-worke and falling asunder of the floore fell suddenly downe together with the Prelates Nobles and Gentlemen there assembled with the fall whereof many were hurt and more slaine outright onely Dunstane President of the said Counsell and held with the Monkes escaped without harme which miracle for so that age took it is thought wonderfully to have credited the profession of Monkerie and weakened the cause of married Priests From hence Avon now growne greater Chippenham in Saxon Cyppanham of note at this day for the market there kept whereof it tooke the name For Cyppan in the Saxon tongue is as much to say as to buy and Cyppman a buyer like as with us Cheapen and Chapman and among the Germans Coppman But in those daies it was the Kings manour and by King Elfred in his testament bequeathed to a younger daughter of his Nothing is there now worth the sight but the Church built by the Barons Hungerford as appeareth every where by their coats of Armes set up thereon Directly over against this but somewhat farther from the banke lieth Cosham
forme of words made a grant unto the Monks of Westminster To the praise of almighty God I have granted as an endowment and a perpetuall Inheritance to the use and behoofe of those that serve the Lord Windle-shore with the appurtenances And I have read nothing more ancient concerning Windsore But the Monks had not long held it in possession when William of Normandie by making an exchange drew it backe to himselfe For in this tenure goeth his Charter With the consent and favour of the venerable Abbat of Westminster I have made a composition for Windlesor to be the Kings possession because that place seemed profitable and commodious by reason of water hard adjoyning to it and the wood fit for game many other particulars lying there meet necessary for Kings yea and a place very convenient to receive and entertaine the King in lieu whereof I have granted to the Monks Wokendune and Ferings Surely a Princes seat cannot lightly have a more pleasant site For from an high hill that riseth with a gentle ascent it enjoyeth a most delightfull prospect round about Fore-right in the Front it overlooketh a vale lying out farre and wide garnished with corne-fields flourishing greene with medowes decked with groves on either side and watered with the most mild and calme river Tamis Behind it arise hils every where neither rough nor over-high attired as it were with woods and even dedicated as one would say by nature to hunting game With the pleasantnes of this place Princes were allured very often to retire themselves hither and heere was Edward the Third that most puissant King borne to conquer France who heere built new out of the ground a most strong Castle in bignesse equall to a pretie Citie fortified with ditches and bulwarks made of stone and forthwith after he had subdued the French and Scots held at one and the selfe same time Iohn King of France and David King of Scotland prisoners together in the same This Castle is divided into courts the inner more toward the East containeth in it the Kings pallace than which for the order and contriving there can be no building more lightsome nor more magnificent On the north side where it looketh downe to the river Q. Elizabeth adjoyned a most pleasant Terrace or open walking place The utter base court hath at the very first entrance a most stately Church consecrated by King Edward the Third unto the blessed Virgine Marie and to Saint George of Cappadocia but brought unto that sumptuous magnificence which now we see it carrie by King Edward the fourth and Sir Reginald Bray In this place king Edward the third for to adorne martiall prowesse with honors the guerdon of vertue ordained that most noble order and society of Knights whom as some report for his owne garter given forth as signall of a battaile that sped fortunately hee called Knights of the Garter who weare on their left legge somewhat under the knee a blew garter carying this Impresse wrought with golden letters in French HONY SOIT QVI MALYPENSE and fasten the same with a buckle of gold as with the bond of a most inward society in token of concord and unity that there might bee among them a certaine consociation and communion of vertues But others there be that doe attribute it unto the garter of the Queene or rather of Ioan Countesse of Salisburie a Lady of incomparable beauty which fell from her as shee daunced and the King tooke up from the floore for when a number of Nobles and Gentle men standing by laughed thereat he made answere againe that shortly it would come to passe that garter should be in high honour and estimation This is the common and most received report Neither need this seeme to be a base originall thereof considering how as one saith Nobilitas sub amore jacet Nobility lies under love There be also that would have the invention of this order to be much more ancient fathering it upon King Richard the first and are verily perswaded that King Edward at length brought it into use againe but how truely I know not Yet in the verie booke of the first Institution which William Dethicke Garter principall King of armes a Gentleman most studious in all such things as concerne Honour shewed unto me thus we read Richardo cum contra Turcas Agarenos c. that is when K. Richard warred upon the Turkes and Saracens Cypres and Acon and was wearie of so lingring delay whiles the siege continued long in wonderfull care anxiety at length upon a divine inspiration by the comming in apparition as it was thought of S. George it came into his mind to draw upon the legs of certaine choise Knights of his a certaine Garter or tach of leather such onely as he had then readie at hand whereby they being distinguished and put in minde of future glorie promised unto them if they wonne the victorie they might be stirred up and provoked to performe their service bravely and fight more valiantly in imitation of the Romans who had such varietie of Coronets wherewith militarie men for divers and sundry causes were rewarded accordingly to the end that by these instigations as it were cowardise being shaken of the valour of mind and courage of heart might arise and shew it selfe more resolute But upon what occasion soever it beganne the mightiest Princes of Christendome reputed it amongst their greatest honour to be chosen and admitted into this companie and since the first institution thereof there have been alreadie received and enrolled into this order which consisteth of six and twentie Knights two and twentie Kings or thereabout besides our Kings of England who are named Soveraignes thereof to speake nothing of Dukes and others of most high calling verie many And here I am willing to set downe their names that were first chosen into this order and be commonly called the Founders of the Order for their renowne is not to be abolished who in those daies for stowt courage and warlike prowesse had few or no peeres and were in that regard advanced to this honour Edward the Third King of England Edward his eldest Sonne Prince of Wales Henrie Duke of Lancaster Thomas Earle of Warwicke The Capdall de Buch. Ralph Earle of Stafford William de Monteacute Earle of Sarisburie Roger Mortimer Earle of March Sir Iohn Lisle Sir Bartholomew Burgwash Sir Iohn Beauchampe Sir Iohn Mohun Sir Hugh Courtney Sir Thomas Holland Sir Iohn Grey Sir Richard Fitz Simon Sir Miles Stapleton Sir Thomas Walle Sir Hugh Wrothesley Sir Neel Loring Sir Iohn Chandos Sir Iames Awdeley Sir Otes Holland Sir Henrie Eme. Sir Zanchet D'brigecourt Sir Walter Pavely On the left side of the Church are the houses of the Custos or Deane and twelve Prebendaries On the right side standeth an house not unlike to the Graecians Prytaneum wherein twelve aged militarie men Gentlemen borne are maintained who wearing every day a red or skarlet
and worth the noting it is there is a vaine of potters earth highly commended and therefore the dearer sold for the making of those crucibles and small vessels which Gold-smiths use in melting their gold Nor farre from hence the cleare rivelet Wandle in Latin Vandalis so full of the best Trouts issueth forth from his head neare Cashalton and Wodcot where by a tuft of trees upon an hill-top there are to bee seene manifest signes of a pretty towne and diverse wels built of flint stones Concerning the populousnesse and wealth whereof the neighbour Inhabitants report very much This in my conceit was that Citie which Ptolomee called NOIOMAGVS and the Emperour Antonine NOVIOMAGVS Neither neede wee to seeke from else where proofe heereof but from the correspondencie of distance For as the old Itinerary noteth it is ten miles from London and twenty eight from Vagmiacj now Maidston Many a mile therefore went they out of the way that placed Noviomagus either at Buckingham or at Guildford This was a principall Citie of the REGNI not knowne to Marinus Tyrius a most ancient Geographer whom Ptolomee taking upon him to censure taxeth for that he had set NOVIOMAGVS of Britaine by Climate more North and by account of miles more South than London Wandle while it is yet small receiveth his first increase by a rill springing at Croidon in times past called Cradiden which standeth under the hils is very well known as well for the house of the Archbishops of Canterbury unto whom it hath belonged now this long time as for Char-coles which the townesmen make good chaffer of The inhabitants report that in old time there stood an house of the Kings in the West part of the towne neere unto Haling where the husbandmen dig up otherwhiles rubble stone which house the Archbishops having received it by gift from the King translated unto their owne neerer the river And neere unto this the right reverend father in God D. Iohn Whitgift Archbishop of Canterbury of most praise worthy Memory in his pious affection founded and endowed with living a very faire Hospitall for the reliefe of poore people and a schoole for the furtherance of learning As for that sudden swelling water or Bourne which the common people report to breake forth heere out of the ground presaging I wote not how either dearth of corne or the pestilence may seeme not worthy once the naming and yet the events sometime ensuing hath procured it credit Neere unto this place stands Beddington wherein is to be seene a very faire house beautified with a delightfull shew of right pleasant gardens and orchards by Sir Francis Carew Knight For the ancient seat it is of the Carews who being descended from the Carews of Moulesford of whom also are come the Carews of Devonshire have for a long time flourished in this country but especially since Sir Iames Carew matched in marriage with the daughter and one of the coheires of the Baron Hoo and Hastings To digresse a little from the river Eastward from Croidon standeth Addington now the habitation of Sir Oliff Leigh wherby is to be seene the ruble of a Castle of Sir Robert Agvilon and from him of the Lords Bardolph who held certaine lands here in fee by Serianty to find in the Kings kitchin at the Coronation one to make a dainty dish which they called Mapigernoun and Dilgerunt What that was I leave to the skilfull in ancient Cookerie and returne to the river Wandle increased with Croidon water passing by Morden divideth it selfe to water Merton in the old English tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 situate in a most fruitfull soile A towne made famous in times past by the death of Kinulph King of the West Saxons who was by a Clito that is a Prince of the bloud slaine here in a small cottage of an harlot upon whom hee was enamoured and Clito himself by K. Kinulphs followers immediately stabbed suffered condigne punishment for his disloyall treachery Now it sheweth onely the ruines of a Monastery that K. Henry the First founded for blacke Chanons by the procurement of Gilbert High Sheriffe of Surry in the yeare 1127. which was famous for the Statute of Merton enacted here in the 21. of King Henrie the Third and also for Water de Merton founder of Merton Colledge in Oxford borne and bred heere Above Merton farther from the river is seated Wibandune now commonly Wimbledon where when over much prosperitie had hatched civill broiles among the English Saxons after the British warres were now ceased Ethelbert King of Kent struck up the first Alarme of civill warre against his owne country men but Ceaulin King of the West Saxons discomfited him in this place with a mightie great slaughter and losse of his men having slaine his principall leaders Oslan and Kneben of whom peradventure that entrenched rampier or fort which wee have heere seene of a round forme is called Bensbury for But now the greatest ornament of this place is that goodly house so beautifull for building and so delectable for faire prospect and right pleasant gardens which Sir Thomas Cecill Knight sonne to that most prudent Counsellour of State Lord Burleygh built in the yeare 1588. when the Spanish Armado made saile upon the coast of England Wandle now after a few miles entreth the Tamis when it hath given name to Wandlesworth betweene Putney the native soile of Thomas Cromwell one of the flowting-stocks of fortune and Batersey sometimes in the Saxon tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and in latine Patricii Insula that is Patrickes Isle and which now we seeke an house of the Kings termed Kennington whereunto the Kings of England in old time were wont to retire themselves but now finde wee neither the name nor the rammell thereof Then is there Lambith or Lomehith that is to say a Lomy or clayish rode or hith famous in former times for the death of Canutus the Hardie King of England who there amid his cups yielded up his vitall breath For hee beeing given wholly to banqueting and feasting caused royall dinners foure times every day as Henry of Huntingdon reporteth to be served up for all his court choosing rather to have his invited guests to send away whole dishes untouched than other commers unbidden to call for more viands to be upon his table But now this place is of the greater name and more frequented by reason of the Archbishop of Canterburie his palace For Baldwine Archbishop of Canterbury about the yeare of Christ 1183. having made an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester purchased a manour in this place wherein hee began to build a palace for himselfe and his successours which they by little and little encreased But when they went about to erect a collegiat Church heere also good GOD what posting was there to Rome with complaints and appeales from the Monkes of Canterburie how many fiery thunderbolts
small trouble and labour about it and when he had hanged all the rest that he found therein he sent the wife and sonnes of Bartholmew aforesaid to the Tower of London Thus Medway having received this rivelet from Leeds fetching about through good grounds rūneth by Allington sometime a castle now lesse than a castellet where Sir T. Wyat the elder a worthy learned knight reedified a faire house now decaied whose son Sr. Thomas enriched by an heire of Sir T. Haut proposing to himself great hopes upō fair pretēses pitifully overthrew himself his state Hence commeth Medway to Ailsford in the old English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which H. of Huntingdon calleth Elstre Ninnius Episford who hath written that it was named in the British tongue Saissenaeg haibail of the Saxons there vanquished like as others in the very same sense termed it Anglesford For Guortemere the Britaine Guortigerns sonne did here set upon Hengist and the English Saxons whom being disraied and not able to abide a second charge he put all to flight so as they had beene utterly defeated for ever but that Hengist skil-full and provident to prevent and divert danger withdrew himselfe into the Isle of Tenet untill that invincible vigour and heat of the Britanes were allaied and fresh supplies came to his succour out of Germanie In this Battaile were slaine the Generalls of both sides Catigern the Britaine and Horsa the Saxon of whom the one buried at Horsted not farre from hence gave name to the place and Catigern honored with a stately and solemne funerall is thought to have beene enterred neere unto Ailesford where under the side of a hill I saw foure huge rude hard stones erected two for the sides one transversall in the middest betweene them and the hugest of all piled and laied over them in manner of the British monument which is called Stone heng but not so artificially with mortis and tenents Verily the unskilfull common people terme it at this day of the same Catigern Keiths or Kits Coty house In Ailsford it selfe for the religious house of the Carmelites founded by Richard Lord Grey of Codnor in the time of King Henrie the Third is now seene a faire habitation of Sir William Siddey a learned Knight painefully and expensfully studious of the common good of his country as both his endowed house for the poore and the bridge heere with the common voice doe plentifully testifie Neither is Boxley neere adjoyning to bee passed over in silence where William de Ipres in Flaunders Earle of Kent founded an Abbey in the yeare of our Lord 1145. and translated thither the Monkes from Clarevalle in Burgundie Medway having wound himselfe higher from the East receiveth a brooke springing neare Wrotham or Wirtham so named for plentie of wortes where the Archbishops had a place untill Simon Islep pulled it downe leaveth Malling which grew to bee a towne after Gundulph Bishop of Rochester had there founded an Abbey of Nunnes and watereth Leibourn which hath a Castle sometime the seate of a family thereof surnamed out of which Sir Roger Leibourn was a great Agent in the Barons warres and William was a Parliamentary Baron in the time of King Edward the first Neare neighbour to Leibourn is Briling now the habitation of the Lord Abergeveny in times past parcell of the Baronie of the Maminots then of the Saies whose Inheritance at length by heires generall came to the families of Clinton Fienes and Aulton Upon the banke of Medway Eastward somewhat higher after it hath passed by Halling where Hamo Heath Bishop of Rochester built an house for his successors there standeth an ancient Citie which Antonine calleth DVRO BRVS DVRO-BRIVAE and in another place more truely DVRO PROVae and DVRO BROVae Bede DVRO BREVIS and in the declining state of the Romane Empire processe of time contracted his name so that it came to be named ROIBIS and so by addition of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which commeth of the latin word Castrum betokeneth among our ancestors a city or Castle was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and now with us more short Rochester and in Latin Roffa of one Rhufus as Bede guesseth but it seemeth unto mee to retaine in it somewhat still of that old name Durobrevis Neither is there cause why any man should doubt of the name seeing that by the account of journies or distance betweene places and Bedes authoritie it is named expressely in the Charter of the foundation of the Cathedrall Church there DVROBROVIS yet thus much I would advertise the Reader that in the printed bookes of Bede it is read Darueruum whereas in the manuscript copies it is termed DVROBREVIS seated it is in a bottome fortified on the one side with a marsh the river the weake walles and as William of Malmesburie saith pent within too streight a roome whereupon in time past it was counted a Castle rather then a Citie For Bede calleth it Castellum Cantuariorum that is the Kentishmens Castle But now it stretcheth forth with large suburbs on the West East and South sides It hath passed through no few dangers and mischances In the yeare of Christ 676. it was overthrowne and laid along by King Aetheldred the Mercian and many a time afterward sacked by the Danes Aethelbert King of Kent erected there a sumptuous Church which also he made more famous with the dignitie of Bishopricke ordaining Iustus to bee the first Bishop of that See But when it fell to decay for very age Bishop Gundulph a Norman about the yeare 1080. reedified it and thrusting out the Priests brought in Monkes in their roomes and when they were cast out a Deane sixe Prebendaries and Scholars were substituted in their places Neere unto the Church there standeth over the river an old Castle fortified both by art and situation Which as the report goeth Odo Bishop of Bayeux and Earle of Kent built But it was no doubt King William the first that built it For in Domesday booke we read thus The Bishop of Rouecester holdeth in Elesford for exchange of the land on which the Castle is seated Yet certaine it is that Bishop Odo when his hope depended of a doubtfull change of the State held this against King William Rufus At which time there passed proclamation through England that whosoever would not be reputed a Niding should repaire to recover Rochester Castle Whereupon the youth fearing that name and most reproachfull and opprobrious in that age swarmed thither in such numbers that Odo was enforced to yeeld the place lose his dignitie and abjure the realme But concerning the reedification of this Castle about this time listen what the Text of Rocester saith when King William the second would not confirme the gift of Lanfrank as touching the Manour of Hedenham in the County of Buckingham made unto Rochester church unlesse Lanfranck and Gundulph Bishop of
PONTIFICE DIRECTVS ET A DEO OPERATIONE MIRACVLORVM SVFFVLTVS ET ETHELBERTHVM REGEM AC GENTEM ILLIVS AB IDOLORVM CVLTV AD FIDEM CHRISTI PERDVXIT ET COMPLETIS IN PACE DIEBVS OFFICII SVI DEFVNCTVS EST SEPTIMO KALENDAS IVNIAS EODEM REGE REGNANTE HERE RESTETH DAN AVGVSTINE THE FIRST ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY VVHO BEING IN TIMES PAST DIRECTED HITHER FROM BLESSED GREGORIE THE BISHOP OF ROME AND THROVGH THE VVORKING OF MIRACLES SVPPORTED BY GOD BOTH BROVGHT KING ETHELBERT AND HIS PEOPLE FROM IDOLATRY TO THE FAITH OF CHRIST AND ALSO AFTER THE DAIES OF HIS FVNCTION ACCOMPLISHED IN PEACE DIED THE SEVENTH DAY BEFORE THE KALENDS OF IVNE IN THE SAME KINGS REIGNE Together with him in the same porch were buried sixe Archbishops next succeeding and in memoriall of these seven namely Austen Laurence Mellitus Iustus Honorius Deus-dedit and Theodosius were these verses such as they are engraven there in marble SEPTEM SVNT ANGLIS PRIMATES ET PROTO PATRES SEPTEM RECTORES SEPTEM COELOQVE TRIONES SEPTEM CISTERNAE VITAE SEPTEMQVE LVCERNAE ET SEPTEM PALMAE REGNI SEPTEMQVE CORONAE SEPTEM SVNT STELLAE QUAS HAEC TENET AREA CELLAE Seven Patriarchs of England Primates seven Seven Rectors and seven Labourers in heaven Seven Cesternes pure of life seven Lamps of light Seven Palmes and of this Realme seven Crownes full bright Seven Starres are heere bestow'd in vault below I may not forget another Church neere unto this built as Bede saith by the Romans and consecrated to Saint Martin wherein before Austens comming Bertha wife to King Ethelbert descended from the bloud Royall of France was wont to frequent divine Christian service Concerning the Castle on the South side of the Citie the Bulwarks whereof now are decaied it maketh no shew of any great antiquity and there is no memorable thing thereof come to my knowledge but only that it was built by the Normans as touching the dignitie of the See of Canterburie which in times past carried a great State I will say nothing but this that as in former ages during the Roman Hierarchie the Archbishops of Canterbury were Primates of all Britaine Legates to the Pope and as Vrbane the second said The Patriarches as it were of another world so when the Popes authoritie was abrogated a decree passed in the Synode Anno 1534. that laying aside the said title they should bee stiled Primates and Metropolitanes of all England Which dignitie the right reverend Father in Christ D. Iohn Whitgift lately held who devoutly consecrated both his whole life to God all his painefull labours to the Church and in the yeare 1604. slept in the Lord a Prelate much missed of all good men After whom succeeded Doctor Richard Bancroft a man of singular courage and counsaile in establishing and supporting the state Ecclesiasticall For the Latitude of Canterbury the Pole Artick is elevated above the Horizon there fifty one degrees and sixteene minutes and the Longitude is reckoned to be foure and twenty degrees and fiftie one minutes Stour by this time having gathered his waters all into one streame runneth beside Hackington where Dame Lora Countesse of Leicester a most honourable Lady in those daies having abandoned all worldly pleasures sequestred her selfe from the world devoutly to serve God wholy Afore which time Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury began a Church there in the honour of Saint Stephen and Thomas of Canterbury But being inhabited by the Bishop of Rome his authoritie for feare the same might prejudice the Monkes of Canterbury hee gave over the workes Howbeit ever since the name remained and the place is called Saint Stephens of which Sir Roger Manwood Knight L. cheife Baron of the Exchequer a man of exquisite knowledge in our common lawes unto whom for his bounteous liberalitie the poore inhabitants are much beholding was of late time a right great ornament and even so is his sonne at this day Sir Peter Manwood Knight of the Bath whom I cannot but mention when as he is a favourer of vertue and learning From thence Stour passeth by Fordich called the little Burough of Forewich in King William the Conquerours booke a place of note for excellent good trouts and so in former time to Stoure-mouth which it hath now forsaken a mile and more yet left and bequeathed his name to it But now by Stoure-mouth runneth a brooke which issuing our of Saint Eadburghs well at Liming where the daughter to King Ethelbert first of our nation tooke the veile while it seeketh the sea seeth Elham a mercate towne of which I have read nothing but that the Mannour was the inheritance of Iulian Leibourn a Ladie of great honour in her time who was mother of Laurence Hastings first Earle of Penbrooke of that surname and after wife to William Clinton Earle of Huntingdon Then it holdeth his course by divers villages which thereof receive the addition of Bourn as Bishops-bourn Hawles-bourn Patricks-bourn and Beakes-bourn This bourne is that river Stoure as Caesar calleth it as I have observed travailing lately in these parts which Caesar came unto when he had marched by night almost twelve Italian miles from the sea-coast and where hee had the first encounter in his second expedition into Britaine with the Britaines whom he drave into the woods where they had a place fortified both by nature and mens labour with a number of trees hewen downe and plashed to fore-close the entries But yet the Romans forced an entrie drave them out and there about encamped The place of campe as I heare is neare Hâ—rdes a place of ancien Gentlement of that surname descended from Esten grave Herengod and the Fitz-Bernards Belowe Stoure-mouth Stoure dividing his streame taketh two severall waies and leaving that name is called In-lade and Wantsume making the Isle of Tenet on the West and South side for on all other sides it is washed with the maine Sea This Iland Solinus named ATHANATON and in other copies THANATON the Britaines Iuis Ruhin as witnesseth Asserius happily for Rhutupin of Rhutupinae a Citie adjoining The English Saxons called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we Tenet All the Isle standeth upon a whitish maile full of goodly corne fields and being a right fertile soile carrieth in length eight miles and foure in breadth reckoned in old time to containe 600. Families in stead whereof it is corruptly read in Bede Milliarium Sexcentarum for Familiarum Sexcentarum But whereas Solinus writeth that there is not a snake creeping in this Isle and that the mould or earth carried from hence killeth snakes it is now proved to bee untrue That Etymologie therefore derived 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is from the death of snakes falleth quite to the ground Here the English Saxons landed first here by the permission of Guortigern they first seated themselves here was their place of refuge and here Guortimor the Britaine made a great
give my voice and accord with Ninnius who writeth That it tooke the name from Glovus the great grandfathers father of King Vortigern but that long before it Antonine had named it Glevum which both the Distance from Corinium and the name also may prove But as the Saxon name Gleavecester came from Glevum so Glevum proportionably from the British Caer Glow which I suppose sprong from the word Glow that in the British tongue signifieth Faire and Goodly so that Caer Glow may bee as much as to say a faire Citie In which signification also the Greekes had their Callipolis Callidromos Callistratia the English men their Brightstow and Shirley and in this very Countie Faireford Faire-ley c. This Citie was built by the Romans and set as it were upon the necke of the Silures to yoake them And there also was a Colonie planted to people it which they called COLONIA GLEVVM For I have seene a fragment of antique stone in the walles of Bath neere unto the North-gate with this Inscription DEC COLONIAE GLEV VIXIT ANN. LXXXVI It lieth stretched out in length over Severne on that side where it is not watered with the river it hath in some places a very strong wall for defence A proper and fine Citie I assure you it is both for number of Churches and for the buildings On the South part there was a lofty Castle of square Ashler stone which now for the most part is nothing but a ruine It was built in King William the first his time and sixteene houses there about as wee read in the booke of Englands Survey were plucked downe for the rearing of this Castle About which Roger the sonne of Miles Constable of Glocester went to law with King Henry the second and his brother Walter lost all the right and interest hee had in this City and Castle as Robert de Mont hath written Ceaulin King of the West Saxons was the first that about the yeare of our redemption 570. by force and armes wrested Glocester out of the Britans hands After this the Mercians won it under whom it flourished in great honour and Osricke King of Northumberland by permission of Etheldred the Mercian founded there a very great and stately Monastery for Nunnes over whom Kineburg Eadburg and Eve Queenes of the Mercians were Prioresses successively one after another Edelfled also that most noble Ladie of the Mercians adorned this City with a Church wherein shee her selfe was buried and not long after when the Danes had spoyled and wasted the whole countrey those sacred Virgins were throwne out and The Danes as Aethelward that ancient authour writeth with many a stroake pitched poore cottages into the citie of Glenvcester At which time when those more ancient Churches were subverted Aldred Archbishop of Yorke and Bishop of Worcester erected another for Monkes which is now the chiefe Church in the Citie and hath a Deane and sixe Prebendaries But the same in these late precedent ages was newly beautified For Iohn Hanley and Thomas Farley two Abbats added unto it the Chappel of the blessed Virgin Mary N. Morwent raised from the very foundation the forefront which is an excellent piece of worke G. Horton an Abbat adjoyned to it the crosse North-part Abbat Trowcester a most daintie and fine Cloister and Abbat Sebrok an exceeding high faire steeple As for the South side it was also repaired with the peoples offerings at the Sepulcher of the unhappy King Edward the second who lieth heere enterred under a monument of Alabaster and not farre from him another Prince as unfortunate as hee Robert Curt-hose the eldest sonne of King William the Conquerour Duke of Normandy within a woodden painted tombe in the midest of the quire who was bereft of the Kingdome of England for that he was borne before his father was King deprived of his two sonnes the one by strange death in the New-forrest the other dispoiled of the Earledome of Flanders his inheritance and slaine he himselfe dispossessed of the Dukedome of Normandie by his brother King Henry the first his eies plucked out and kept close prisoner 26. yeares with all contumelious indignities untill through extreame anguish hee ended his life Above the quire in an arch of this church there is a wall built in forme of a semicircle full of corners with such an artificiall device that if a man speake with never so low a voice at the one part thereof and another lay his eare to the other being a good way distant he may most easily heare every sillable In the reigne of William the Conquerour and before it may seeme that the chiefest trade of the Citizens was to make Iron For as we find in the Survey booke of England the King demanded in manner no other tribute than certaine Icres of Iron and Iron barres for the use of the Kings Navy and some few quarts of hony After the comming in of the Normans it suffered divers calamities by the hands of Edward King Henry the third his sonne whiles England was all on a smoake and cumbustion by the Barons warre it was spoiled and afterward by casualty of fire almost wholy consumed to ashes but now cherished with continuance of long peace it flourisheth againe as fresh as ever it was and by laying unto it two Hundreds it is made a County and called the County of the Citie of Glocester Also within the memory of our fathers King Henry the Eighth augmented the state thereof with an Episcopall See with which dignitie in old time it had beene highly endowed as Geffery of Monmouth avoucheth and I will not derogate ought from the credit of his assertion considering that among the Prelates of Britaine the Bishop Cluviensis is reckoned which name derived from Clevum or Glow doth after a sort confirme and strengthen my coniecture that this is that Glevum whereof Antonine maketh mention Severne having now left Glocester behind it and gathered his waters unto one streame againe windeth it selfe by Elmore a Mansion house of the Gises ancient by their owne lineall descent being in elder times owners of Apsely-Gise neere Brickhill and from the Beauchamps of Holt who acknowledge Huber de Burgo Earle of Kent whom I lately mentioned beneficious to them and testifie the same by their Armories Lower upon the same side Stroud a pretty river slideth into Severne out of Coteswold by Stroud a Mercat towne sometimes better peopled with Clothiers and not farre from Minching-Hampton which anciently had a Nunnery or belonged to Nunnes whom our ancestors named Minchings Now Severn waxing broader and deeper by reason of the alternative flowing and ebbing of the sea riseth and swelleth in manner of a rough and troublous sea indeed and so with many windings and turnings in and out speedeth him unto the Ocean But nothing offereth it selfe unto his sight to count of as hee passeth along but Cam-bridge a little country towne where it receiveth Cam a small
cruelty for that some of his followers were slaine there in a fray that there followed thereupon a most heavy banishment of the Students and the University a sorrowfull spectacle lay as it were halfe dead and past all recovery untill the dayes of king William the Conquerour Whom some write falsly to have wonne it by assault but Oxonia written amisse in the Copies for Exonia that is Excester deceived them And that it was at that time a place of Studies and Students may bee understood out of these words of Ingulph who in that age flourished I Ingulph saith hee being first placed in Westminster and afterwards sent to the Study of Oxford when as in learning of Aristotle I had profited above my fellowes of the same time c. For those Schooles of Learning which wee call Academies or Vniversities that Age termed Studia that is Studies as I will shew anone But at this very time it was so empoverished that whereas within the wall and without I speake out of William the Conquerour his Domesday booke there were about seaven hundred and fifty houses besides foure and twenty Mansions upon the Walls five hundred of them were not able to pay their Subsidy or Imposition And to use the very words of that booke This Citty paid pro Theloneo et Gablo and for other Customes by the yeare to the King twenty pounds and sixe quarts of Hony and unto Earle Algar tenne pounds About this time Robert D'oily a noble man of Normandy of whom I have before spoken when hee had received at the hands of William the Conquerour in reward of his Service in the Warres large Possessions in this Shire built a spacious Castle in the West side of the Citty with deepe Ditches Rampiers an high raised Mount and therein a Parish Church to Saint George unto which when as the Parishioners could not have accesse by reason that King Stephen most streightly besieged Maude the Empresse within this Castle Saint Thomas Chappell in the streete hard by was built He also as it is thought fortified the whole Citty with new walls which by little and little time doth force and as it were embreach with his assault Robert likewise Nephew unto him by his brother Neale and Chamberlaine to King Henry the First founded Ousney or Osney a most stately Abbay as the ruines doe yet shew amidst the divided waters not farre from the Castle perswaded thereto by Edith his wife the daughter of Forne who before time had beene one of King Henry the First his sweet hearts and lig-bies About those times as we read in the Chronicle of the said Osney Abbay Robert Pulein beganne to reade in Oxford the Holy Scriptures in England now growne out of request Who afterwards when as by his Doctrine the English and Frenchmen both had much profited was called by Pope Lucius the second and promoted to be Chancellour of the Church of Rome To the same effect also writeth Iohn Rosse of Warwicke By the procurement of King Henry the First the Divinity Lecture which had discontinued a long time in Oxford began againe to flourish and there he built a Palace which King Edward the Second at length converted into a Covent of Carmelits But long before this time in this Palace was borne into the World that Lion-hearted Knight Richard the First King of England commonly called Ceeur de Lion a Prince of a most hauty minde and full of resolution borne for the weale of Christendome the honour of England and the terrour of Infidels Upon whose death a Poet in that age of no meane conceite versified thus for that his remaines were interred in diverse places Viscera Carcelorum Corpus Fons servat Ebrardi Et cor Rhothomagum Magne Richarde tuum In tria dividitur unus qui plus fuit uno Nec superest uno gloria tanta viro Hîc Richarde jaces sed mors si cederet armis Victa timore tui cederet ipsa tuis Thy Bowels keep 's Carceolum thy corps Font Everard And Roan thy valiant Lions heart O noble great Richard Thus one three fold divided is for more he was then one And for that one so great he was such glory is in none Here li'st thou Richard but if death to force of armes could yeeld For feare of thee he would to thee have given as lost the field Thus after the Citty was refreshed againe with these buildings many beganne to flocke hither as it were to a Mart of learning and vertue and by the industrious meanes especially of that Robert Pulein a man borne to promote the Common-wealth of learning who refused no paines but laboured all that he could to set open againe those Well springs of good Literature which had beene stopped up through the favour especially of King Henry the First King Henry the Second and King Richard his sonne of whom I spake ere while And these endeavours of Pulein sped so well and tooke so good effect that in the reigne of King Iohn there were here three thousand Students who all at once every one changed their Habitation to Reding and partly to Cambridge because the Citizens seemed to wrong and abuse overmuch these Students and Professours of Learning but after this tumult was appeased they returned within a short time Then and in the age presently ensuing as God provided this City for good learning so he raised up a number of very good Princes and Prelats to the good thereof who for the adorning and maintenance of learning extended their liberality in the highest degree For when King Henry the Third had by way of Pilgrimage visited Saint Frideswide a thing before-time thought to bee an hainous Offence in a Prince for the dishonour offered to her by Algar a Prince and so removed that superstitious feare wherewith some superstitious Priestes had for a time frighted Princes from once comming to Oxford and had assembled here a very great Parliament for the composing of certaine controversies betweene him and the Barons hee confirmed the priviledges granted by the former Kings and conferred also some other himselfe So that by this time there was so great store of learned men that divers most skilfull in Divinity as well as in Humanitie were in great numbers spread from thence both into the Church and Common-wealth and Mathew Paris in plaine termes called The Vniversity of Oxford The Second Schoole of the Church nay rather a ground worke of the Church next after Paris For with the name of Vniversity the Bishops of Rome had before time honoured Oxford which Title at that time by their Decrees they vouchsafed to none but unto that of Paris this of Oxford unto Bononia in Italy and Salamanca in Spaine And in the Councell of Vienna it was ordained that there should bee erected Schooles for the Hebrew Greeke Arabicke and Chaldaean tongues in the Studies of Paris Oxford Bononie and Salamanca as the most famous of all others to the end
thing recorded to posterity by an inscription which continued there a long time engraven in Brasse On this North-West side likewise London hath other great Suburbs and there stood in old time a Watchtowre or military Forefense whence the place was of an Arabicke word called Barbacan and by the gift of King Edward the Third became the dwelling house of the Vffords from whom by the Willoughbies it came to Sir Pengrine Bertey Lord Willoughbey of Eresby a man noble and generous and one of Mars his broode Neither lesse Suburbs runne out on the North-East and East In the fields of which Suburbs whiles I was first writing these matters there were gotten out of the ground many urnes funerall vessels little Images and earthen pots wherein were small peeces of money coined by Claudius Nero Vespasian c. Glasse vials also and sundry small earthen vessels wherein some liquid substance remained which I would thinke to bee either of that sacred oblation of Wine and Milke which the ancient Romanes used when they burnt the dead or else those odoriferous liquours that Statius mentioneth Pharijque liquores Arsuram lavere comam And liquid baulmes from Aegypt-land that came Did wash his haire that ready was for flame This place the Romanes appointed to burne and bury dead bodies who according to the law of the xij Tables carried Coarses out of their Cities and enterred them by the high waies sides to put Passengers in minde that they are as those were subject to mortality Thus much of that part of the City which lieth to the Land Now for that side where the River runneth toward the South banke thereof the Citizens made a Bridge also over the Water reaching to that large Burrough of Southwarke whereof I have already spoken First of wood in that place where before time they used for passage a ferry boat in stead of a Bridge Afterwards under the Raigne of King John they built a new Bridge with admirable workmanship of stone hewen out of the Quarry upon 19. Arches beside the draw-bridge and so furnished it on both sides with passing faire houses joyning one to another in manner of a Street that for bignesse and beauty it may worthily carry away the prise from all the Bridges in Europe In this Burgh of Southwarke to speake onely of things memorable there stood sometime a famous Abbay of Monkes of Saint Benets Order called Bermondsey consecrated in times past unto our Saviour by Aldwin Childe Citizen of London also a stately house built by Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke which having served his turne but a small time was shortly after pulled downe These are extant Saint Thomas Hospitall reedified or founded rather by the City of London for the sustenance of feeble and impotent persons The Priory of the blessed Virgin Mary called Saint Mary Over Rhe because it standeth beyond the River of Tamis in regard of London erected by William Pont del Arche a Norman for blacke Chanons The Bishops house of Winchester built by William Giffard Bishop for his Successours about the yeare of our Lord 1107. From which along the Tamis banke there runneth Westward a continued raunge of dwelling houses where within our fathers remembrance was the Bordello or Lupanarie for so the Latines terme those little roomes or secret chambers of harlots wherein they filthily prostituted their bodies to sale because they after the manner of ravening she-wolves catch hold of silly wretched men and plucke them into their holes But these were prohibited by King Henry the Eighth at which time England was growne to excessive lasciviousnesse and riot which in other Nations are continued for gaine under a specious shew of helping mans infirmity Neither of these Strumpets and brothel-houses doe I thinke that this place in our tongue tooke the name Stewes but of those Ponds or Stewes which are heere to feed Pikes and Tenches fat and to scowre them from the strong and muddy fennish taste Heere have I seene Pikes panches opened with a knife to shew their fatnesse and presently the wide gashes and wounds come together againe by the touch of Tenches and with their glutinous slime perfectly healed up Among these buildings there is a place in manner of a Theater for baiting of Beares and Buls with Dogges and certaine kenels appointed severally for Band-Dogges or Mastives which are of that strength and so sure of bit that three of them are able to take and hold downe a Beare and foure a Lion so that the Poet in old time reported truely of our Dogges in these words Taurorum fracturi colla Britanni The British Dogges are able well To breake the neckes of Buls so fell Like as he that said they were more fierce than the Dogges of Arcadian kinde which are thought to be engendred of Lions What time as the Bridge was thus made betweene London and this Burrough the City was not onely enlarged but also an excellent forme of Common wealth was therein ordained and the Citizens reduced into certaine distinct Corporations and Companies The whole City divided into six and twenty Wards and the Counsell of the City consisted of as many ancient men named of their age in our tongue Aldermen as one would say Senatours who each one have the overseeing and rule of his severall Ward and whereas in ancient time they had for their Head-Magistrate a Portreve that is a Governour of the City King Richard the First ordained two Ballives in stead of whom soone after King John granted them liberty to chuse by their voices yearely out of the twelve principall Companies a Major for their chiefe Magistrate also two Sheriffes whereof the one is called the Kings the other the Cities Sheriffe This forme of Common wealth being thus established it is incredible to tell how much London grew and groweth still in publike and also private buildings whiles all the Cities of England besides decrease For to say nothing of that beautifull peece of worke the Senatâ— house named Guild Hall built by Sir Thomas Knowles Major Leaden Hall a large and goodly building erected by Simon Eire to bee a common Garner in time of dearth to pull downe the price of Corne the Merchants meeting place standing upon Pillars which the common people call the Burse and Queene Elizabeth with a solemne ceremony named The Royall Exchange for the use of Merchants and an ornament to the City set up by Sir Thomas Gresham Citizen and knight a magnificent worke verily whether you respect the modull of the building the resort of Merchants from all Nations thâ—ther or the store of wares there Which Sir Thomas Gresham being withall an exceeding great lover of learning consecrated a most spacious house his owne habitation to the furtherance of learning and instituted there Professours of Divinity Law Physicke Astronomy Geometry and Musicke with liberall salaries and stipends to the end that London might be a place
not onely furnished with all sorts of Traffique but also with the liberall Arts and Sciences To passe over the House of the Society of the House commonly called the Stilyard as the Easterlings yard and the waters conveighed by pipes under the ground into all parts of the City and very goodly conducts or cisternes castellated to receive the same also the new conveyance of water devised by the skilfull travell of Peer Maurice a German who by meanes of a forcer or wheele with pipes placed at a certaine levell brought water of late out of the Tamis into a great part of the City To omit all these I say it is so adorned every where with Churches that RELIGION and GODLINESSE seem to have made choise of their residence herein For the Churches therein amount to the number of one hundred twenty and one more verily than Româ— it selfe as great and holy as it is can shew Besides Hospitals for diseased persons it maintaineth also sixe hundred Orphane children or thereabout in Christs Church Hospitall and poore people upon contribution of Almes about 1240. c. A long time it would aske to discourse particularly of the good lawes and orders of the laudable government of the port and dignity of the Major and Aldermen of their forward service and loyalty to their Prince of the Citizens courtesie the faire building and costly furniture the breed of excellent and choise wits their gardens in the Suburbs full of dainty arbours and banqueting roomes stored also with strange herbes from forraigne countries of the multitude strength and furniture of their ships the incredible store of all sorts of Merchandise two hundred thousand broad-clothes beside other Anâ—werp alone hath received from hence every yeare and of the superabundance of all things which belong to the furniture or necessity of mans life For right truly wrote that Hadrianus Iunius in his Philippeis Tectiâ— opibúsque refertum Londinum si fas numeroso cive superbum Larga ubi foecundo rerum undat copia cornu Thicke built with houses London is with riches stuffed full Proud if we may so say of men that therein live and dwell Wherein most plenteous wise abound all things that tongue can tell And Iul. Scaliger in his Poem of Cities Vrbs animis numeróque potens râ—bore gentiâ— For peoples courage numbers power it is a City strong And another Poet hath powred out these Verses also concerning London if you deigne to reade them LONDINUM gemino procurrit littore longè Aemula materna tollens sua lumina Troia Clementer surgente jugo dum teâ—dit in ortum Urbs peramaena situ coelóque solóque beata Urbs pietate potens numeroso cive superba Urbsque Britannorum quae digna BRITANNIA dici Haec nova doctrinis Lutetia mercibus Ormus Altera Roma viris Chrysaea secunda metallis Along both bankes out stretched farre the Citie LONDON lies Resembling much her mother Troie aloft she lifts her eies Whiles on a gentle rising hill she beareth toward East A City pleasant for her site in aire and soile much blest Religious and populous and hence she lookes on hie And well deserves for to be cal'd the Britans Britanie For learning new Lutetia Ormus for Traffique mich A second Rome for valiant men Chrysae for metals rich In this manner likewise versified Henry of Huntingdon in praise of London while King Stephen raigned about foure hundered yeares since Ibis in nostros dives Londonia versus Quae nos immemores non sinis esse tui Quando tuas arces tua moenia mente retracto Quae vidi videor cuncta videre mihi Famaâ— loquax nat a loqui moritura silendo Laudibus crubait fingere falsa tuis Thou also shalt of Verses ours Rich London have thy part For why we cannot thee forget so great is thy desart When I thinke of thy stately Towres thy faire and spacious Wall Which I have seene me thinkes therewith I see no * lesse then all This pratling fame that 's borne to prate and talk'd she not would dye In all the praise that goes of thee hath bash'd to tell one lye Another Poet in like manner pleasantly played upon London in this sort Hac Urbs illa potens cui tres tria dona ministrant Bacchus Apollo Ceres pocula carmen ador Hac Urbs illa potens quam Iuno Minerva Diana Mercibus arce feris ditat adornat alit This is that City strong to which three gifts are given by three By Bacchus Ceres and Phoebus Wine Wheat and Poetree This place sterne Pallas Iuno Queene Diana Hunters-feer Adorn's enricheth and doth feed with towres with wares with deer But in a more grave note and serious stile a friend of mine and a praise worthy person Master Iohn Ionston Professor of Divinity in the Kings University of S. Andrewes URBS AUGUSTA cui coelúmque solúmque salúmque CuÃque favent cunctis cuncta elementa bonis Mitius haud usquà m coelum est uberrima Tellus Fundit inexhausti germina laeta soli Et pater Oceanus Tamisino gurgite mistus Convehit immensas totius orbis opes Regali cultu sedes clarissima Regum Gentis praesidium cor anima atque oculus Gens antiqua potens virtute robore belli Artium omnigenûm nobilitata opibus Singula contemplare animo attentúsque tuere Aut Orbem aut Orbis dixeris esse caput This City well AUGUSTA call'd to which a truth to say Aire Land Sea and all Elements shew favour every way The weather no where milder is the ground most rich to see Doth yeeld all fruits of fertile soile that never spent will bee And Ocean that with Tams streame his flowing tyde doth blend Conveis to it commodities all that the world can send The noble seat of Kings it is for port and roialty Of all the Realme the fence the heart the life and lightsome ey The people ancient valorous expert in chivalry Enriched with all sorts and meanes of Art and mysterie Take heedfull view of every thing and then say thus in briefe This either is a world it selfe or of the world the chiefe But of these and such like particulars Iohn Stowe Citizen of London and a famous Chronicler hath discoursed more at large and more exactly in that his Survey of London which he lately published Now will I take my leave of my deere native Country and bid London a diew after I have given this onely note that the Pole is here elevated fiftie one degrees and foure and thirty scruples and the Meridian distant from the farthest West-poynt three and twenty degrees and five and twenty scruples That the Fidicula symbolizing in nature with Venus and Mercurie is the Tropick starre which glanceth upon the Horizon but never setteth and the Dragons head is reputed by Astronomers to be the Verticall starre over head From London the Tamis watering Redcliff so called of the Red-cliffe a prety fine Towne and dwelling place of Sailers as
the Church of Ely for to expiate and make satisfaction for the wicked act hee had committed in murdering his owne mother then by Angre where upon a very high Hill are the tokens of a Castle built by Richard Lucy Lord Chiefe Justice of England in the Raigne of Henry the Second of which Family a daughter and one of the heires King Iohn gave in marriage to Richard Rivers who dwelt hard by at Stranford Rivers So it passeth by Lambourn Manour which is held by service of the Wardstaffe viz. to carry a load of strawe in a Carte with sixe horses two ropes two men in harnesse to watch the said Wardstaffe when it is brought to the Towne of Aibridge c. and then by Wansted Parke where the late Earle of Leicester built much for his pleasure From the mouth of this Roding this Tamis hasteneth through a ground lying very flat and low and in most places otherwhiles overflowne whereby are occasioned strong and unwholsome vapours exceeding hurtfull to the health of the neighbour Inhabitants to Tilbury neere unto which there bee certaine holes in the rising of a chalky Hill sunke into the ground tenne sathome deepe the mouth whereof is but narrow made of stone cunningly wrought but within they are large and spacious in this forme which hee that went downe into them described unto mee after this manner Of which I have nothing else to say but what I have delivered already As for Tilbury Bede nameth it Tilaburgh it consisteth of some few cottages by the Tamis side yet was it in ancient time the seate of Bishop Chad when about the yeare of our Salvation 630. hee ingrafted the East-Saxons by Baptisme into the Church of Christ. Afterwards this River passing by places lying flat and unwholesome with a winding returne of his Water severeth the Island CONVENNON which also is called COUNOS whereof Ptolomee maketh mention from the firme land This hath not yet wholly foregone the old name but is called Canvey It lyeth against the Coast of Essex from Leegh to Hole Haven five miles in length some part whereof appertaineth to the Collegiat Church of Westminster But so low that oftentimes it is quite overflowne all save hillocks cast up upon which the Sheepe have a place of safe refuge For it keepeth about foure hundred Sheepe whose flesh is of a most sweet and delicate taste which I have seene young lads taking womens function with stooles fastened to their buttockes to milke yea and to make Cheeses of Ewes milke in those dairy sheddes of theirs that they call there Wiches There adjoyne to this Island along in order first Beamfleot fortified with deepe and wide Trenches as saith Florilegus and with a Castle by Hasting the Dane which King Aelfred wonne from them Then Hadleigh sometime the Castle of Hubert de Burgo afterwards of Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester now defaced with ruines and in the last place Leegh a proper fine little Towne and very full of stout and adventerous Sailers with Pritlewel fast by where Sweno de Essex built long since a Cell for Monkes And here the land shooteth forward to make a Promontory which they call Black-taile Point and Shobery Nesse of Shobery a Village situate upon it which sometime was a City an Havenet named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For in old Annales of the English-Saxons wee reade thus The Danes being driven from Beamfleot goe to a City seated in East-sex called in the English Tongue Sceobirig and there built themselves a sure and strong Fort. Heere by reason that the bankes on both sides shrinke backe the Tamis at a huge and wide mouth rowleth into the sea This doth Ptolomee terme Aestuarium TAMESAE and corruptly in some other Copies TEMESAE and we commonly the Tamis Mouth More inward is Rochford placed that hath given name to this Hundered Now it belongeth to the Barons Rich but in old time it had Lords of ancient Nobility sirnamed thereof whose inheritance came at length to Butler Earle of Ormond and Wiltshire and from them to Sir Thomas Bullen whom King Henry the Eighth created Vicount Rochford and afterward Earle of Wiltshire out of whose Progeny sprung that most gracious Queene ELIZABETH and the Barons of Hunsdon Heere I have heard much speech of a Lawlesse Court as they called it holden in a strange manner about Michaelmasse in the first peepe of the day upon the first cocke crowing in a silent sort yet with shrowde fines eftsoones redoubled if not answered which servile attendance they say was imposed upon certaine Tenants there-about for conspiring there at such unseasonable time to raise a commotion But I leave this knowing neither the originall nor the certaine forme thereof Onely I heard certaine obscure barbarous rhymes of it Curia de Domino Rege tenetur sin◠lege Ante ortum solis luceat nisi polus c. not worth remembring Leaving the Tamis Banke and going farther within the countrey yea from West to East these places of name above the rest standing thus in order shew themselves Havering an ancient retiring place of the Kings so called of a Ring which in that place a Pilgrime delivered as sent from S. J. Baptist for so they write unto K. Edward the Confessor Horn-Church named in times past Cornutum Monasterium that is the horned Minster for there shoot out at the East end of the Church certaine points of leade fashioned like hornes Rumford the glory whereof dependeth of a swine mercat and Giddy-hall an house adjoyning to it which belonged to that Sir Thomas Cooke Major of London whose great riches hoorded up together wrought him his greatest danger For being judicially arraigned innocent man as he was of high treason and through the incorrupt equity of Judge Markham acquit in a most dangerous time yet was he put to a very grievous fine and stript in manner of all that he was worth Brentwood called by the Normans Bois arse in the same sense and by that name King Stephen granted a Mercat and a Faire there to the Abbat of S. Osith and many yeares after Isabell Countesse of Bedford daughter to King Edward the Third built a Chappell to the memory of S. Thomas of Canterbury for the ease of the Inhabitants Engerstone a Towne of note for nothing else but the Mercat and Innes for Travailers Heere am I at a stand and am halfe in a doubt whether I should now slip as an abortive fruite that conjecture which my minde hath travailed with Considering there hath beene in this Tract the City CAESAROMAGUS and the same doubtlesse in the Romanes time of especiall note and importance for the very name if there were nothing else may evict so much signifying as it doth Caesars City as DRUSOMAGUS the City of Drusus which also should seeme to have beene built in the honour of Caesar Augustus For Suaetonius writeth thus Kings that
Afterwards Herveie the Abbot comming of the Norman bloud compassed it round about with a wall whereof there remaine still some few Reliques and Abbot Newport walled the Abbay The Bishop of Rome endowed it with very great immunities and among other things granted That the said place should bee subject to no Bishop in any matter and in matters lawfull depend upon the pleasure and direction of the Archbishop Which is yet observed at this day And now by this time the Monkes abounding in wealth erected a new Church of a sumptuous and stately building enlarging it every day more than other with new workes and whiles they laid the foundation of a new Chappell in the Reigne of Edward the First There were found as Eversden a Monke of this place writeth The walles of a certaine old Church built round so as that the Altar stood as it were in the mids and we verily thinke saith he it was that which was first built to Saint Edmunds service But what manner of Towne this was and how great the Abbay also was while it stood heare Leland speake who saw it standing The Sunne saith hee hath not seene either a City more finely seated so delicately standeth it upon the easie ascent or hanging of an hill and a little River runneth downe on the East side thereof or a goodlier Abbay whether a man indifferently consider either the endowment with Revenewes or the largenesse or the incomparable magnificence thereof A man that saw the Abbay would say verily it were a Citie so many Gates there are in it and some of brasse so many Towres and a most stately Church Upon which attend three others also standing gloriously in one and the same Churchyard all of passing fine and curious Workmanship If you demand how great the wealth of this Abbay was a man could hardly tell and namely how many gifts and oblations were hung upon the Tombe alone of Saint Edmund and besides there came in out of lands and Revenewes a thousand five hundered and three score pounds of old rent by the yeare If I should relate the broiles severally that from time to time arose betweene the Townesmen and the Monkes who by their Steward governed the Townesmen and with how great rage they fell together by the eares purposedly to kill one another my relation would seeme incredible But as great a peece of worke as this was so long in building and still encreasing and as much riches as they gathered together for so many yeares with S. Edmunds shrine and the monuments of Alan Rufus Earle of Britaine and Richmond Sir Thomas of Brotherton sonne to King Edward the first Earle of Norfolke and Marshall of England Thomas of Beaufor Duke of Excester W. Earle of Stafford Marie Queene Dowager of France Daughter to King Henry the Seaventh and many other worthie personages there Entombed were by King Henry the Eighth utterly overthrowne What time as at one clappe hee suppressed all Monasteries perswaded thereto by such as under a goodly pretense of reforming religion preferred their private respects and their owne enriching before the honour of Prince and Country yea and before the Glory of God himselfe And yet there remaineth still lying along the carcasse as one would say of that auncient monument altogether deformed but for ruines I assure you they make a faire and goodly shew which who soever beholdeth hee may both wonder thereat and withall take pity thereof England also that I may note this also by the way if ever else it had losse by the death of any Man sustained here one of the greatest For that father in deede of his Country Humfrey Duke of Glocester a due observer of Iustice and who had furnished his noble witte with the better and deeper kinde of studies after hee had under King Henry the Sixth governed the Kingdome five and twenty yeares with great commendation so that neither good men had cause to complaine of nor evill to finde fault with was here in Saint Saviours Hospitall brought to his end by the spightfull envy of Margaret of Lorain Who seeing her husband King Henry the Sixth to bee a man of a silly simple minde and faint hearted to the end shee might draw into her owne hands the managing of the State devised and plotted this wicked deed but to her owne losse and this Realme in the highest degree For Normandy and Aquitane were thereby shortly after lost and Warres more then civill enkindled in England Nere unto this Saint Edmunds Bury is Rushbroke to be seene the habitation of the worshipfull Family of the Iermins Knights and not farre from thence Ikesworth where there stood an auncient Priory founded by Gilbert Blund a man of great nobility and Lord of Ikesworth whose issue male by the right line ended in William that in King Henry the Third his dayes was slaine in the battell at Lewis and left two sisters his Heires Agnes wife to William de Creketot and Roise wedded to Robert de Valoniis Afterward both here at Haulsted neere by Rougham and else-where the Family of Drury which signifieth in old English A Pretious jewell hath beene of great respect and good note especially since they married with the heires of Fressil and Saxham More Northward is Saint Genovefs Fernham in this regard memorable for that Richard Lucy Lord chiefe Justice of England tooke Prisoner there in a pight fielde Robert Earle of Leicester making foule worke and havocke here and withall put to the sword above ten thousand Flemings whom hee had levied and sent forth to the depopulation of his Country Here hard by I had the sight of two very faire houses the one built by the Kitsons Knights at Hengrave the possession in times past of Edmund de Hengrave a most renowned Lawyer under King Edward the First the other at Culfurth erected by Sir Nicolas Bacon Knight sonne unto that Sir Nicolas Bacon Lord Keeper of the great Seale of England who for his singular wisedome and most sound judgement was right worthily esteemed one of the two Supporters of this Kingdome in his time And not farre off standeth Lidgate a small Village yet in this respect not to be passed over in silence because it brought into the World Iohn Lidgate the Monke whose witte may seeme to have beene framed and shapen by the very Muses themselves so brightly re-shine in his English verses all the pleasant graces and elegancies of speech according to that age Thus much for the more memorable places on the West side of Suffolke On the South side wee saw the river Stour which immediately from the very spring head spreadeth a great Mere called Stourmeer but soone after drawing it selfe within the bankes runneth first by Clare a noble Village which had a Castle but now decayed and gave name to the right noble Family of the Clares descended from Earle Gislebert the Norman and the title of Dukedome unto Leonel King
people but now having lost the old name it is called Caster And no marvaile that of the three VENTAE Cities of Britain this onely lost the name seeing it hath quite lost it selfe For beside the ruines of the Walles which containe within a square plot or quadrant about thirty acres and tokens appearing upon the ground where sometimes houses stood and some few peeces of Romane money which are now and then there digged up there is nothing at all remaining But out of this ancient VENTA in the succeeding ages Norwich had her beginning about three miles from hence neere unto the confluents of Yare and another namelesse River some call it Bariden where they meet in one which River with a long course running in and out by Fakenham which King Henry the first gave to Hugh Capell and King John afterward to the Earle of Arundell and making many crooked reaches speedeth it selfe this way by Attilbridge to Yare and leaveth Horsford North from it where a Castle of William Cheneys who in the Raigne of Henry the Second was one of the great Lords and chiefe Peeres of England lieth overgrowne with bushes and brambles This NORVVICH is a famous City called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a Northerly Creeke if Wic among the Saxons signifieth the creeke or Cove of a River as Rhenanus sheweth unto us for in this very place the River runneth downe amaine with a crooked and winding compasse or a Northerne Station if Wic as Hadrianus Iunius would have it betokeneth a sure and secure station or place of aboad where dwelling houses stand joyntly and close together or a Northerly Castle if Wic sound as much as Castle as our Archbishop Alfrick the Saxon hath interpreted it But if I should with some others be of opinion that Norwich by a little turning is derived from Venta what should I doe but turne awry from the very truth For by no better right may it challenge unto it selfe the name of Venta than either Basil in Germany the name of AUGUSTA or Baldach of BABYLON For like as Baldach had the beginning of Babylons fall and Basil sprang from the ruine of Augusta even so our Norwich appeared and shewed it selfe though it were late out of that ancient VENTA which the British name thereof Caer Guntum in Authours doth prove wherein like as in the River Wentsum or Wentfar the name of Venta doth most plainely discover it selfe For this name Norwich wee cannot reade of any where in our Chronicles before the Danish warres So farre is it off that either Caesar or Guiteline the Britain built it as they write who are more hasty to beleeve all than to weigh matters with sound judgement But now verily by reason of the wealth the number of Inhabitants and resort of people the faire buildings and faire Churches and those so many for it containeth about thirty Parishes the painefull industry of the Citizens their loyalty towards their Prince and their courtesie unto strangers it is worthily to bee ranged with the most celebrate Cities of Britaine It is right pleasantly situate on the side of an Hill two and fifty Degrees and forty Scrupuls from the Aequator and foure and twenty Degrees and five and fifty Scrupuls in Longitude The forme is somewhat long lying out in length from South to North a mile and an halfe but carrying in breadth about halfe so much drawing it selfe in by little and little at the South end in manner as it were of a cone or sharpe point Compassed it is about with strong walles in which are orderly placed many Turrets and twelve gates unlesse it bee on the East-side where the River after it hath with many windings in and out watered the North part of the City having foure Bridges for men to passe to and fro over it is a Fence thereto with his deepe Chanell there and high steepe bankes In the very infancy as I may so say of this City when Etheldred a witlesse and unadvised Prince raigned Sueno or Swan the Dane who ranged at his pleasure through England with a great rable of spoiling Ravenours first put it to the sacke and afterwards set it on fire Yet it revived againe and as wee reade in that Domesday booke wherein William the Conquerour tooke the review of all England there were by account in King Edward the Confessours time no fewer than one thousand three hundred and twenty Burgesses in it At which time that I may speake out of the same Booke It paid unto the King twenty pounds and to the Earle ten pounds and beside all this twenty shillings and foure Prebendaries and sixe Sextars of Hony also a Beare and sixe Dogges for to bait the Beare but now it paieth seventy pounds by weight to the King and an hundred shillings for a Gersume to the Queene and an ambling Palfrey also twenty pounds Blanc to the Earle and twenty shillings for a Gersume by tale But while the said King William raigned that flaming fire of fatall sedition which Raulph Earle of East England had kindled against the King settled it selfe heere For when hee had saved himselfe by flight his wife together with the French Britons endured in this place a most grievous Siege even to extreme famine yet at length driven she was to this hard pinch that she fled the land and this City was so empaired that scarce 560. Burgesses were left in it as we reade in that Domesday booke Of this yeelding up of the City Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury maketh mention in his Epistle to King William in these words Your Kingdome is purged of these villanous and filthy Britons The Castle of Norwich is rendred up into your hands And the Britons who were therein and had lands in England having life and limme granted unto them are sworne within forty dayes to depart out of your Realme and not enter any more into it without your leave and licence From that time beganne it againe to recover it selfe by little and little out of this diluge of calamities and Bishop Herbert whose good name was cracked for his foule Simony translated the Episcopall See from Thetford hither and built up a very faire Cathedral Church on the East side and lower part of the City in a certaine place then called Cow-holme neere unto the Castle The first stone whereof in the Raigne of King William Rufus and in the yeare after Christs Nativity 1096. himselfe laid with this inscription DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS FILII ET SPIRITUS SANCTI AMEN That is LORD BISHOP HERBERT LAID THE FIRST STONE IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER THE SONNE AND HOLY GHOST AMEN Afterwards he procured of Pope Paschal that it should be established and confirmed for the Mother Church of Norfolke and Suffolke he endowed it bountifully with as much lands as might sufficiently maintaine threescore Monkes who had there faire and spacious Cloysters
another place this Dignity had an end and therewith the stately part of the Towne by little and little was empaired untill that Edelfleda a most vertuous and noble Lady in the yeere after our Saviours Nativity 914. repaired and strongly walled it new about in so much as Matthew of Paris in his lesser Story wrote thus Legecester is a right wealthy City and notably well fenced with an indissoluble Wall which if it had a strong foundation were inferiour to no City whatsoever About the Normans entring into this Land it was well peopled and frequented yea and had very many Burgesses in it out of whom they were bound by an ancient custome as we reade in William the Conquerours booke To send twelve with the King so often as he â—ent in person to the warres But if hee made a voyage by sea against his enemies they sent foure horses to carry armour as farre as to London This City paid yeerely to the King 30. pounds by tale and twenty in ora that is by weight also 25. measures called Sextaries of hony But in the time of King Henry the Seconds Raigne it was sore overpressed with a world of great and grievous calamities and the wals throwne downe what time as Robert sirnamed Bossu that is Crouch backe Earle of Leicester conspired and rebelled against the King Which Matthew of Paris sheweth in these words For the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert spurning against the King the noble City of Leicester was besieged and overthrowne by King Henry and the Wall which seemed indissoluble was utterly cast downe all round about For that I may adde thus much out of the lesser History abovesaid when the Wall of the City wanting a good foundation was undermined and the props that sustained it at length burnt the peeces and fragments of the Wall fell downe which even to this day such is the indissoluble tenacity and stifnesse of the morter remaine fast and retaine the bignesse of sound rockes Miserable also was the imposition of a fine upon the Citizens at that time and their banishment as lamentable who having obtained by paying summes of money licence to depart tooke Sanctuary for extreame feare in Saint Albans and Saint Edmundsbury The Castle likewise was dismantled of all Fortifications which verily was a large and strong peece Beneath which there is a very faire Hospitall or house for receit of poore people and a Collegiat Church wherein Henry Earle of Lancaster and Henry of Lancaster his sonne who was the first Duke of Lancaster lie buried For the said Duke when he was now stepped farre in yeeres of a pious minde built this Hospitall for the maintenance of poore folke and to that end dedicated it Concerning which Henry Knighton of Leicester who lived in that age writeth thus in his story Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built a Collegiat Church and an Hospitall without the South Gate of Leicester wherein hee ordained a Deane with 12. Canons Prebendaries as many Vicars and other Officers an hundred poore and feeble people and ten poore able women to give attendance upon the said feeble folke and this Hospitall hee endowed with sufficient revenewes As for this Hospitall it continueth in some good state as an other Bede-house in the Towne built by W. Wigeston But the Collegiat Church which was a magnificent worke and the greatest ornament of Leicester was demolished when religious houses were granted to the King At the other side of the City among most goodly and pleasant medowes which the River Soar watereth there was an Abbay called of that place De Pree of which the said Knighton hath written thus Robert de Bossu Earle of Leicester when he begun Gerondon Abbay for Cistertians founded the Monastery of S. Mary De Pratis at Leicester endowed it richly with Lands Possessions and Revenewes and himselfe with the consent of Amice his Wife became a Chanon Regular in the same and for the space of fifteene yeeres in habite of a Chanon served God there and so slept in the Lord That thus forsooth he might make amends by repentance in a Chanons weed of that offence which beforetime hee had committed by rebelling with a traiterous minde against his Liege Prince What name Leicester had in the Romans time it is not knowne In the Catalogue of Ninnius I thinke it to bee that which is called Caer Lerion But that Leir a King of whom there goe many tales built it they that will may beleeve it for mee But the situation thereof upon the Foss-way and the distance both from BENNONES and VEROMETUM agreeth so just with the description of Antonine that I cannot but thinke it to be that RATAE which Ptolomee nameth RAGAE although there is neither tippe nor toe remaining in it of the name RATAE unlesse peradventure it be in that old long Ditch and Rampire which they call Rawdikes scarce halfe a mile without the South Gate Heere am I at a stand and looke about me what way to follow for the seeking out of ancient Townes Ranulph a Monke of Chester recordeth that the ancient street way went through the wasts from hence to Lincolne but hee telleth us not through what Wasts The common voice goeth that it went on still full North through Nottingham-shire Antonine the Emperour if I have any insight at all seemeth to insinuate that it passed North-Eastward through this County into Lincoln-shire And verily this way there are places of antique memory that by some of their remaines and tokens shew themselves but the other way I could not my selfe ever yet meete with any what others have done I know not and would willingly learne North-West from Leicester and not farre off is Grooby a large Lordship and Manor which from Hugh Grantmaismill whom King William the Conquerour had enriched with great possessions and revenewes came by the Earles of Leicester and the Quincies unto the house of the Ferrers out of which the Lord Ferrers of Grooby flourished a long time in the honorable state of Barons and in the end Isabel the only daughter remaining of the right line brought it by her marriage into the name of the Greies from whence it fell againe at the last by Attainder into the Kings hands But whiles I was revising of this Worke our Soveraigne Lord King James restored Sir Henry Grey a worthy Knight to the ancient honour of his noble Progenitors creating him Baron Grey of Grooby in the first yeare of his Raigne Now let us returne to the River Soar which being past Leicester first giveth name to Montsorell or rather Mont-Soar-hill a name compounded of Norman and English both which now is famous onely for a Mercate there kept but in old time most renowned for the Castle seated upon a steepe and craggy Hill hanging over the River which before time belonged to the Earles of Leicester but afterwards to Saer de Quincy Earle of Winchester in the Barons warre at this day nothing
in with Shropp shire on the Eastside with Stafford-shire and Darby-shire on the North with Lancashire and on the West with Denbigh and Flint-shires Toward the North-West it runneth farre into the sea with a long cantle or Promontory which being enclosed within two Creekes receiveth the Ocean on both sides entring into the land into which two Creekes also all the Rivers of this Shire doe discharge themselves Into that Creeke which is more Westerne passeth the River Dee that divideth the country from Denbigh-shire into that on the Eastside both Wever which runneth through the mids of the Shire and Mersey also that parteth it from Lancashire issue themselves Neither see I any better way of describing this County than if I follow the very tracts of these Rivers For all the places of greatest note are situate by the sides of them But before I enter into any particular description I will first propose out of Lucian the Monke thus much in commendation of Ches-shire for he is a rare Author and lived a little after the Conquest If any man be desirous saith hee either fully or as neere as may bee to treat of the Inhabitants according to the disposition of their manners in respect of others that live in sundry places of the Realme They are found to bee partly different from the rest of English partly better and partly equall unto them But they seeme especially the best point to bee considered in generall triall of manners in feasting freindly at meat cheerefull in giving entertaiment liberall soone angry but not much and as soone pacified lavish in words impatient of servitude mercifull to the afflicted compassionate toward the poore kinde to their kinred spary of their labour void of dissimulation and doublenesse of heart nothing greedy in eating farre from dangerous practises yet by a certaine licentious liberty bold in borowing many times other mens goods They abound in Woods and pastures they are rich in flesh and Cattaile confining on the one side upon the Welsh Britans and by a long entercourse and transfusion of their manners for the most part like unto them This also is to be considered in what sort the Country of Chester enclosed upon one side with the limite of the Wood Lime by a certaine distinct priviledge from all other Englishmen is free and by the Indulgences of Kings and Excellencies of Earles hath beene wont in Assemblies of the people to attend upon the Earles sword rather than the Kings Crowne and within their precinct to heare and determine the greatest matters with more liberty Chester it selfe is a place of receit for the Irish a neighbour to the Welsh and plentifully served with Corne by the English Finely seated with Gates anciently built approoved in hard and dangerous difficulties In regard of the River and prospect of the eye together worthy according to the name to be called a City garded with watch of holy and religious men and through the mercy of our Saviour alwaies fensed and fortified with the mercifull assistance of the Almightie The River Dee called in Latin Deva in British Dyffyr-dwy that is the water of Dwy breeding very great plenty of Salmons ariseth out of two fountaines in Wales and thereof men thinke it tooke the name for Dwy in their tongue signifieth Two Yet others observing also the signification of the word interpret it Black-water others againe Gods water or Divine water But although Ausonius noteth that a Spring hallowed to the Gods was named Diuvona in the ancient Gaules tongue which was all one with the British and in old time all Rivers were reputed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Descending from Heaven yea and our Britans yeelded divine honour unto Rivers as Gildas writeth yet I see not why they should attribute Divinity to this River Dwy above all others The Thessalians as we reade gave to the River Paeneus divine honour for the pleasantnesse thereof the Scythians to Danubius for the largenesse the Germans to Rhene because it was counted a judge in the question of true and undefiled wedlocke But wherefore they should impose a divine name upon this River I see no reason as I said before unlesse peradventure because now and then it changed the Chanell and thereby foreshewed a sure token of Victory to the Inhabitants upon it when they were in hostility one with another according as it inclined more to this side or to that after it had left the Chanell for thus hath Giraldus Cambrensis recorded who in some sort beleeved it Or else because they observed that contrary to the wonted manner of other Rivers upon the fall of much raine it arose but little and so often as the South winde beateth long upon it it swelleth and extraordinarily overfloweth the grounds adjoyning Peradventure also the Christian Britans thought the water of this River to be holy For it is written that when they stood ready to joyne battaile with the English Saxons and had kissed the earth they dranke also very devoutly of this River in memoriall of Christs most sacred and pretious bloud But d ee which seemeth to rush rather than to run out of Wales no sooner is entred into Cheshire but he passeth more mildely with a slower streame by BONIUM in some written copies of Antonine BOVIUM a City that had been of great name in that age and afterward a famous Monastery Of the Chore or quire whereof it was called by the Britans Bon-chor and Banchor of the ancient English 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Banchor and among many good and godly men it fostered and brought up as some write that most wicked Arch-heretick Pelagius who injuriously derogating from the grace of God troubled a long time the West Church with his pestiferous Doctrine Prosper Aquitanus in this Verse of his termeth him the British Adder or Land-snake Pestifero vomuit coluber sermone Britannus A British Snake with venemous tongue Hath vomited his poison strong Neither have I made mention of him for any other reason but because it is behoveable to each one to know vices and venims In this Monastery as saith Bede There was such a number of Monkes that being divided into seven portions which had every of them a severall head and Ruler over them yet every one of these had no fewer than three hundred men who were wont to live all of their handy labour Of whom Edilfred King of the Nordan-humbers slew 12. hundred because they had implored in their prayers Christs assistance for the Christian Britans against the English-Saxons then infidels The profession of this Monasticall life that I may digresse a little began when Pagan Tyrans enraged against Christians pursued them with bloudy persecutions For then good devout men that they might serve God in more safety and security withdrew themselves into the vast Wildernesses of Aegypt and not as the Painims are wont with open mouth to give it out for to enwrap themselves willingly in
the long traine and consequents of things as also whatsoever throughout the world hath beene done by all persons in all places and at all times and what ever hath beene all done may also bee avoided and taken heed of Which City having foure Gates from the foure cardinall Windes on the East side hath a prospect toward India on the West toward Ireland North-Eastward the greater Norway and Southward that streight and narrow Angle which divine severity by reason of civill and home-discords hath left unto the Britans Which long since by their bitter variance have caused the name of Britaine to bee changed into the name of England Over and beside Chester hath by Gods gift a River to enrich and adorne it the same faire and fishfull hard by the City Walles and on the South side a rode and harbour for shippes comming from Gascoine Spaine and Germany which with the helpe and direction of Christ by the labour and wisedome of Merchants repaire and refresh the heart of the City with many good things that wee being comforted every way by our Gods Grace may also drinke Wine often more frankely and plenteously because those Countries enjoy the fruite of the Vineyards aboundantlie Moreover the open Sea ceaseth not to visite it every day with a Tide which according as the broad shelves and barres of sands are opened or hidden by Tides and Ebbes incessantly is wont more or lesse either to send or exchange one thing or other and by his reciprocall Flow and returnes either to bring in or to carry out somewhat From the City North-Westward there shooteth out a languet of land or Promontory of the maine land into the Sea enclosed on the one side with Dee mouth on the other side with the River Mersey wee call it Wirall the Welsh Britans for that it is an Angle tearme it Kill-gury In old time it was all forest and not inhabited as the Dwellers report but King Edward the Third disforested it Yet now beset it is with Townes on every side howbeit more beholding to the Sea than to the Soile for the land beareth small plenty on Corne the water yeeldeth great store of fish At the entry into it on the South side standeth Shotwich a Castle of the Kings upon the salt water Upon the North standeth Hooten a Mannour which in King Richard the Second his time came to the Stanleies who fetch their Pedegree from Alane Silvestre upon whom Ranulph the first of that name Earle of Chester conferred the Bailly-wick of the Forest of Wirall by delivering unto him an horne Close unto this is Poole from whence the Lords of the place that have a long time flourished tooke their name and hard by it Stanlaw as the Monkes of that place interprete it A Stony hill where John Lacy Connestable of Chester founded a little Monastery which afterward by reason of inundations was translated to Whaley in Lancashire In the utmost brinke of this Promontory lieth a small hungry barren and sandy Isle called Il-bre which had sometime a little Cell of Monkes in it More within the Country and Eastward from Wirall you meet with a famous Forest named the Forest of Delamere the Foresters whereof by hereditary succâ—ssion are the Dawns of Vtkimon descended of a worshipfull stocke from Ranulph de Kingleigh unto whom Ranulph the first Earle of Chester gave that Forestership to bee held by right of inheritance In this Forest Aedelfled the famous Mercian Lady built a little City called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is by interpretation Happy Towne which now having quite lost it selfe hath likewise lost that name and is but an heape of rubbish and rammell which they call The Chamber in the Forest. And about a mile or two from hence are to bee seene the ruines of Finborrow another Towne built by the same Lady Aedelfled Through the upper part of this Forest the River Wever runneth which ariseth out of a Poole in the South side of the Shire at Ridly the dwelling house of the worshipâ—ull Family of the Egertons who flowered out of the Barons of Melpas as I have said Neere hereunto is Bunbury contractly so called for Boniface Bury for Saint Boniface was the Patron Saint there where the Egertous built a College for Priests Over against which is Beeston which gave sirname to an ancient family and where upon a steepe rising hill Beeston Castle towereth aloft with a turretted wall of a great circuit This Castle the last Ranulph Earle of Chester built whereof Leland our Countriman being rapt both with a Poeticall and Propheticall fury writeth thus Assyrio rediens victor Ranulphus ab orbe Hoc posuit Castrum terrorem gentibus olim Vicâ—uis patriaeque suae memorabile vallum Nunc licet indignas patiatur fracta ruinas Tempus erit quando rursus caput exeret altum Vatibus antiquis si fas mihi credere vati When Ranulph from Assyria return'd with victory As well the neighbour Nations to curbe and terrifie As for to sense his owne Country this famous Fort he rais'd Whilom a stately things but now the pride thereof is raz'd And yet though at this present time it be in meane estate With crackes and breaches much defac'd and fouly ruinate The day will come when it againe the head aloft shall heave If ancient Prophets I my selfe a Prophet may beleeve But to returne to the River Wever first holdeth his course Southward not farre from Woodhay where dwelt a long time that family of the Wilburhams knights in great reputation also by Bulkeley and Cholmondley which imparted their names to worshipfull houses of knights degree not farre off on the one hand from Baddeley the habitation in times past of the ancient Family de Praerijs of the other from Cumbermer in which William Malbedeng founded a little religious house Where this River commeth to the South limit of this Shire it passeth through low places wherein as also elsâ—where the people finde oftentimes and get out of the ground trees that have lien buried as it is thought there ever since Noahs floud But afterwards watering fruitfull fields he taketh to him out of the East a riveret by which standeth Wibbenbury so called of Wibba King of the Mercians Hard to it lie Hatherton the seat in old time of the Orbetes then of the Corbetts but now of the Smithes Dodinton the possession of the Delvesies Batherton of the Griphins Shavinton of the Wodenoths who by that name may seeme to have descended from the English Saxons beside the places of other famous Families wherewith this County every where aboundeth From thence runneth Wever downe by Nant-wich not farre from Middlewich and so to Northwich These are very famous Salt-wiches five or sixe miles distant asunder where brine or salt water is drawne out of Pittes which they powre not upon wood while it burneth as the ancient Gaules and Germans were wont to doe but boyle over the
the Catalogue of Martyrs had a Church here built and dedicated unto him by Milfrid a pety K. of the country wherein when a Bishops See was established it grew to great wealth first through the devout liberality of the Mercians and then of the West Saxons kings for they at length were possessed of this City as may be gathered out of William of Malmesbury where he writeth That Athelistan the West Saxon brought the Lords of Wales in this City of so hard passe that by way of Tribute they were to pay every yeere besides Hounds and Haukes twenty pounds of gold and three hundred pound of silver by weight This Citie as farre as I can reade had never any misfortune unlesse it were in the yeere of our Lord 1055. wherein Gruffith Prince of South Wales and Algar an English man rebelling against King Edward the Confessour after they had put to flight Earle Ralph sacked the Citie destroyed the Cathedrall Church and led away captive Leofgar the Bishop But Harold straightwaies after that hee and daunted their audacious courage fensed it as Floriacensis saith with a broade and high Rampier Hence it is that Malmesbury writeth thus in his treatise of Bishops Hereford is no great Citie and yet by the height of those steepe and upright bankes cast up it sheweth that it hath beene some great thing and as wee reade in the Domesday booke of King William the Conquerour there were in all but an hundered and three men within the Walles and without The Normans afterwards neere the East end of the Church along the side of Wy built a mighty great and strong Castle the worke as some report of Earle Miles which now yeeldeth to Time and runneth to ruine After this they walled the Citie about Bishop Reinelm in the reigne of Henry the First founded that beautifull Cathedrall Church which now we see there whose successours enlarged it by adioyning thereto a proper Colledge for Priests and faire houses for the Prebendaries For besides the Bishop who hath 302. Churches in his Dioecese there are in this Church a Deane two Archdeacons a Chaunter a Chauncellour 2 Treasurer and eight and twenty Prebendaries In the Church I saw in manner no Monuments but the Bishops Tombes And I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop a man of Noble birth had here a very stately and sumptuous Sepulcher who for his holinesse being canonized a Saint went within a little of surmounting that princely Martyr King Ethelbert such was the opinion of singular pietie and devotion Geographers measure the position or site of this Citie by the Longitude of twenty degrees and foure and twenty scruples and by the Latitude of two and fifty degrees and sixe scruples Wy is not gone full three miles from hence but he intercepteth by the way the river Lug who running downe a maine out of Radnor hils with a still course passeth through the mids of this country from the North-west of the South-east At the first entrance it seeth a farre off Brampton Brian Castle which a famous family named hereof de Brampton wherein the forname was usually Brian held by continuall succession unto the time of King Edward the First but now by the female heires it is come to R. Harleie neere at hand it beholdeth Wigmore in the English Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 repaired in elder times by King Edward the elder afterward fortified by William Earle of Hereford with a Castle in the wast of a ground for so reade we in Domesday booke which was called Marestun in the tenure of Radulph de Mortimer from whom those Mortimers that were afterwards Earles of March lineally descended of whom you may reade more in Radnor-shire Three miles off there is another neighbour Castle called Richards Castle the possession first of the Sayes then of the Mortimers and afterwards of the Talbots by hereditarie succession At length by the heires of Sir Iohn Talbot the inheritance was divided betweene Sir Guarin Archdeacon and Sir Matthew Gurnay Beneath this Castle Nature who no where disporteth her selfe more in shewing wonders then in waters hath brought forth a pretty well which is alwaies full of little bones or as some thinke of small frog-bones although they be from time to time drawne quite out of it whence it is commonly called Bone well And not farre off is placed Croft Castle the possession of that very ancient family of the Crofts Knights who have there now a long time flourished in great and good esteeme Thence passeth Wy to Lemster which also was called Leon Minister and Lions Monastery of a Lyon that appeared to a religious man in a vision as some have dreamed But whereas the Britans call it Lhan Lieni which signifieth a Church of Nunnes and that it is certainely knowne that Merewalc a King of the Mercians built here a Church for Nunnes that afterwards became a Cell belonging to the Monastery of Reading to seeke any other originall of the name than from those Nunnes what were it else but to hunt after the windes Yet there want not some who derive it from Line whereof the best kinde groweth here The greatest name and same that it hath at this day is of the wooll in the territories round about Lemister Ore they call it which setting aside that of Apulia and Tarentum all Europe counteth to be the very best so renowned also it is for Wheat and bread of the Finest floure that Lemster bread and Weabley Ale a towne belonging to the noble Familie D'Eureux are growne unto a common proverbe By reason of these commodities the mercates at Lemster were so frequented that they of Hereford and Worcester complaining that the confluence of people thither impaired their mercates procured that by Royall authoritie the mercat day was changed Now have I nothing more concerning Lemster but that William Breosa Lord of Brecknock when hee revolted from King John did set it on fire and defaced it As for that Webley aforesaid it is situate more within the Country and was the Baronie of the Verdons the first of which house named Bertram de Verdon came into England with the Normans whose posteritie by marriage with an inheretrice of Laceies of Trim in Ireland were for a good while hereditary Constables of Ireland and at last the possessions were by the daughters devolved to the Furnivalls Burghersh Ferrars of Groby Crop-hulls and from the Crop-hulls by the Ferrars of Chartly unto D'Eureux Earles of Essex Neere neighbours unto Webley more Westward are these places Huntingdon Castle the possession in times past of the Bohuns Earles of Hereford and of Essex Kinnersley belonging to the auncient Family De la-bere and Erdsley where the auncient Family of the Baskervills have long inhabited which bred in old time so many worthie Knights who deduce their pedigree from a Neice of Dame Gunora that most famous Lady in Normandy and long agoe flourished in this Country and
of the lands was fallen there was great competition for the title of Abergevenny argued in the High Court of Parliament in the second yeere of King James and their severall claimes debated seven severall daies by the learned Counsell of both parts before the Lords of the Parliament Yet when as the question of precise right in law was not sufficiently cleered but both of them in regard of the nobility and honor of their family were thought of every one right worthy of honorable title and whereas it appeared evidently by most certaine proofes that the title as well of the Barony of Abergevenny as of Le Despenser appertained hereditarily to this Family The Lords humbly and earnestly besought the King that both parties might be ennobled by way of restitution who graciously assented thereunto Hereupon the Lord Chancellour proposed unto the Lords first whether the heire male should have the title of Abergevenny or the heire female and the most voices carried it that the title of the Barony of Abergevenny should bee restored unto the heire male And when he propounded secondly whether the title of the Barony Le Despenser should bee restored unto the female they all with one accord gave their full consent Which being declared unto the King he confirmed their determination with his gracious approbation and royall assent Then was Edward Nevill by the Kings Writ called unto the Parliament by the name of Baron Abergavenney and in his Parliament Robes betweene two Barons as the manner is brought into the house and placed in his seat above the Baron Audley And at the very same time were the letters Patents read whereby the King restored erected preferred c. Mary Fane to the state degree title stile name honour and dignity of Baronesse Le-Despenser To have and to hold the foresaid state and unto the above named Mary and her heires and that her heires successively should bee Barons Le-Despenser c. And upon a new question mooved unto whether the Barony of Abergavenney or the Barony Le-Despenser the priority of place was due The Lords referred this point to the Commissioners for the Office of the Earle Mareschall of England who after mature deliberation and weighing of the matter gave definitive sentence for the Barony Le-Despenser set downe under their hands and signed with their seales which was read before the Lords of the Parliament and by order from them entered into the Journall Booke out of which I have summarily thus much exemplified John Hastings for I have no reason to passe it over in silence held this Castle by homage Wardship and marriage when it hapned as wee reade in the Inquisition and if there should chance any warre betweene the King of England and the Prince of Wales hee was to keepe the Country of Over-went at his owne charges in the best manner he can for his owne commodity the Kings behoofe and the Realme of Englands defense The second little City which Antonine named BURRIUM and setteth downe twelve miles from Gobannium standeth where the River Birthin and Uske meete in one streame The Britans at this day by transposing of the letters call it Brunebegy for Burenbegy and Caer Uske Giraldus tearmeth it Castrum Oscae that is The Castle of Uske and we Englishmen Uske At this day it can shew nothing but the ruines of a large and strong Castle situate most pleasantly betweene the River Uske and Oilwy a Riveret which beneath it runneth from the East by Ragland a faire house of the Earle of Worcesters built Castle-like The third City which Antonine nameth ISCA and LEGIO SECUNDA is on the other side of Uske twelve Italian miles just distant from BURRIUM as hee hath put it downe The Britans call it Caer Leon and Caer LEON ar Uske that is The City of the Legion upon Uske of the second Legion Augusta which also is called Britannica Secunda This Legion being ordained by the Emperour Augustus and translated by Claudius out of Germany into Britaine under the conduct of Vespasian being ready at his command when he aspired to bee Emperour and which procured the Legions in Britaine to take his part was heere at last placed in Garison by Julius Frontinus as it seemeth against the Silures How great this ISCA was in those dayes listen unto our Girald out of his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae who thus describeth it out of the ruines It was an ancient and Authenticke City excellently well built in old time by the Romanes with bricke Walles Heere may a man see many footings of the antique nobility and dignity it had mighty and huge Palaces with golden pinacles in times past resembling the proud statelinesse of the Romanes for that it had beene found first by Romane Princes and beautified with goodly buildings There may you behold a giant-like Towre notable and brave baines the remaines of Temples and Theatres all compassed in with faire walles which are partly yet standing There may one finde in every place as well within the circuit of the Wall as without houses under ground water pipes and Vaults within the earth and that which you will count among all the rest worth observation you may see every where hoâ—e houses made wondrous artificially breathing forth heate very closely at certaine narrow Tunnels in the sides Heere lye enterred two noble Protomartyrs of greater Britaine and next after Alban and Amphibalus the very principall heere crowned with Martyrdome namely Julius and Aaron and both of them had in this City a goodly Church dedicated unto them For in antient times there had beene three passing faire Churches in this City One of Julius the Martyr beautified with a chaire of Nunnes devoted to the service of God A second founded in the name of blessed Aaron his companion and ennobled with an excellent Order of Chanons Amphibalus also the Teacher of Saint Alban and a faithfull informer of him unto faith was borne heere The site of the City is excellent upon the River Oske able to beare a prety Vessell at an high water from the Sea and the City is fairely furnished with woods and medowes heere it was that the Romane Embassadours repaired unto the famous Court of that great King Arthur Where Dubritius also resigned the Archiepiscopall honour unto David of Menevia when the Metropolitane See was translated from hence to Menevia Thus much out of Giraldus But for the avouching and confirming of the Antiquity of this place I thinke it not impertinent to adjoyne heere those antique Inscriptions lately digged forth of the ground which the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin Bishop of Landaffe a passing great lover of venerable Antiquity and of all good Literature hath of his courtesie imparted unto me In the yeere 1602. in a medow adjoyning there was found by ditchers a certaine image of a personage girt and short trussed bearing a quiver but head hands and feet were broken off upon a pavement of square tile in checker
goeth on forward to Shropp-shire That MEDIOLANUM a Towne of the Ordovices which both Antonine the Emperour and Ptolomee speake of stood in this Shire I am in a manner perswaded upon probability The footings whereof I have sought after with all diligence but little or nothing have I found of it For time consumeth the very carcasses even of Cities Yet if we may ground any conjecture upon the situation seeing the Townes which Antonine placeth on either side be so well knowne to wit BONIUM now Bangor by Dee on the one side and RUTUNIUM now Rowton Castle on the other side for he setteth it twelve Italian miles distant from this and from the other twenty The lines of Position if I may so tearme them or of the distance rather doe cut one another crosse betweene Matrafall and Lan-vethlin which are scarce three miles asunder and shew as it were demonstratively the site of our Mediolanum For this cannot chuse but bee an infallible way to finde out the situation of a third place by two others that are knowne when as there are neither hils interposed nor any troublous turnings of the wayes As for this Matrafall which standeth five miles Westward from Severn although it bee now but a bare name was sometime the regall seat of the Princes of Powis which may bee an argument of the antiquity thereof and the same much spoken of by Writers who record that after the Princes had once forsaken it Robert Vipont an Englishman built a Castle But Lan-vethlin that is Vethlius Church being a little Mercate Towne although it be somewhat farther off from the crosse-meeting of the said lines yet commeth it farre neerer in resemblance of name to Mediolanum For of Methlin by the propriety of the British tongue is made Vethlin like as of Caer-Merden is come Caer Verden and of Ar-mon Arvon Neither doth Methlin more jarre and disagree in sound from Mediolanum than either Millano in Italie Le Million in Xantoigne or Methlen in the Lowcountries which Cities no man doubteth were all in times past knowne by the name of Mediolanum Which of these conjectures commeth neerer to the truth judge you for me it is enough to give my guesse If I should say that either Duke Medus or Prince Olanus built this Mediolanum of ours and those Cities of the same name in Gaule or that whiles they were a building Sus mediatim Lanata that is That a Sow halfe fleeced with wooll was digged up might I not be thought thinke you to catch at Clouds and fish for Nifles Yet notwithstanding the Italians write as much of their Mediolanum But seeing that most true it is that these Cities were built by nations of the same language and that the Gaules and Britans spake all one language I have prooved already it is probable enough that for one and the same cause they had also one and the same denomination Howbeit this our Mediolanum in nothing so farre as I know agreeth with that of Italie unlesse it be that both of them are seated upon a plaine betweene two riverets and a learned Italian derived the name of their Mediolanum hence because it is a Citie standing in the middest betweene Lanas that is little rivers according to his owne interpretation But this may seeme overmuch of MEDIOLANUM which I have sought heere and about Alcester not farre off This Countie hath adorned no Earle with the name title and Honour thereof untill of late our Soveraigne King James created Philip Herbert second Sonne of Henry Earle of Penbroke by Mary Sidney for the singular love and affectionate favour toward him and for the great hope that he conceived of his vertues both Baron Herbert of Shurland and also Earle of Montgomery upon one and the same day at Greenwich in the yeere 1605. But the Princes of Powis descended from the third Sonne of Rotherike the great held this shire with others in a perpetuall line of succession although Roger and Hugh of Montgomery had encroched upon some part thereof untill the daies of King Edward the Second For then Oen ap Gruffin ap Guenwinwyn the last Lord of Powis of the British bloud for the name of Prince had long before been worne out of use left one onely daughter named Hawise whom Sir Iohn Charleton an English man the Kings Valect married and in right of his wife was by King Edward the Second made Lord of Powise who as I have seene in very many places gaue for his Armes a Lion Geules Rampant in a shield Or which he received from his wifes Progenitours Of his posterity there were foure males that bare this Honorable title untill that in Edward the succession of males had an end for he the said Edward begat of Aeleonor the daughter and one of the heires of Thomas Holland Earle of Kent Iane Wife to Sir Iohn Grey Knight and Joice married unto Iohn Lord Tiptoft from whom the Barons of Dudley and others derive their descent The said Sir Iohn Grey for his martiall prowesse and by the bountifull fauour of King Henry the Fifth received the Earledome of Tanquervill in Normandie to have unto him and his heires males by delivering one Bassinet at the Castle of Roan every yeere on Saint Georges day This John had a sonne named Henrie Lord of Powis in whose race the title of Powis with the Honour thereof continued untill Edward Grey died well neere in our time leaving no issue lawfully begotten This Shire hath Parishes 47. MERIONITH Comitatus olim pars ORDOVICVM MERIONETH-SHIRE FFrom the backeside of Montgomery-shire MERIONETH-SHIRE in British Sire-Verioneth in Latine Mervinia and as Giraldus calleth it Terra filiorum Canaeni that is Canaens sonnes Land reacheth to that crooked Bay I spake of and to the maine Sea which on the West side beateth so sore upon it that it is verily thought to have carryed away by violence some part thereof Southward for certaine miles together it is severed from Cardigan-shire by the river Dovy on the North it boundeth upon Caer-narvon and Denbigh-shires As for the in-land part it so riseth with mountaines standing one by another in plumps that as Giraldus saith it is the roughest and most unpleasant Country to see to in all Wales For it hath in it mountaines of a wonderfull height yet narrow and passing sharpe at the top in manner of a needle and those verily not scattering heere and there one but standing very thicke together and so even in height that Shepheards talking together or railing one at another on the tops of them if haply they appoint the field to encounter and meet together they can hardly doe it from morning till night But let the Reader heerein relie upon Giraldus credit Great flockes of Sheepe graze all over these mountaines neither are they in danger of Wolves who were thought then to have beene ridde quite out of all England and Wales when King Eadgar imposed upon Ludwall Prince of these
part of the Shire Nature hath loftily areared it up farre and neere with Mountaines standing thicke one by another as if she would here have compacted the joynts of this Island within the bowels of the earth and made this part thereof a most sure place of refuge for the Britans in time of adversitie For there are so many roughes and Rocks so many vales full of Woods with Pooles heere and there crossing over them lying in the way betweene that no Armie nay not so much as those that are lightly appoynted can finde passage A man may truely if he please terme these Mountaines the British Alpes for besides that they are the greatest of the whole Island they are no lesse steepe also with cragged and rent Rockes on every side than the Alpes of Italie yea and all of them compasse one Mountaine round about which over-topping the rest so towreth up with his head aloft in the aire as he may seeme not to threaten the Skie but to thrust his head up into Heaven And yet harbour they the Snow for all the yeere long they be hory with Snow or rather with an hardened crust of many Snowes felted together Whence it is that all these hilles are in British by one name termed Craig Eriry in English Snow-don which in both languages sound as much as Snowie Mountaines like as Niphates in Armenia and Imaus in Scythia tooke their names as Plinie witnesseth of Snow Neverthelesse so ranke are they with grasse that it is a very common speech among the Welsh That the Mountaines Eriry will yeeld sufficient pasture for all the Cattaile in Wales if they were put upon them together Concerning the two Meares on the toppe of these in the one of which floreth a wandring Island and in the other is found great store of Fishes but having all of them but one eye a peece I will say nothing left I might seeme to foster fables although some confident upon the authoritie of Giraldus have beleeved it for a veritie Yet certaine it is that there be in the very toppe of these Mountaines Pooles in deed and standing Waters whereupon Gervase of Tilbury in his Booke entituled Otia Imperialia writeth thus In the Land of Wales within the bounds of great Britain there be high Hilles that haue laied their foundations upon most hard Rockes and in the toppe thereof the earth is crusted over with such a coate of waterish moisture that wheresoever a man doe but lightly set his foote he shall perceive the ground to stirre the length of a stones cast from him whereupon when the enemies came the Welsh with their agility and nimblenesse lightly leaping over the boggy ground either avoide the enemies assaults or to their losse resolutely expect their forces These Mountainers John Salisbury in his Polycraticon by a new forged Latine name termed Nivicollinos that is Snow-down inhabitants of whom in King Henry the Second his daies he wrote thus The Snow-downe Britans make inrodes and being now come out of their Caves and lurking holes of the Woods enlarge their borders possesse the plaines of the Noble men and whiles themselves looke on they assault they winne and overthrow them or else keepe the same to their owne behoofe because our youth which is so daintily brought up and loves to be house-birds and to live lazie in the shade being borne onely to devoure the fruits of the earth and to fill the belly sleepes untill it be broad day light c. But come wee downe now from the Mountaines into the Champion Plaines which because we finde no where else but by the Sea side it may suffice to coast only along the shore The Promontory which I said before shooteth out toward the South-west is in Ptolomee called according to the diversitie of copies CANGANUM JANGANUM and LANGANUM Which is the truest name I know not but LANGANUM it may seeme considering that the inhabitants name it at this day Lhein which runneth forth with a narrow and even by-land having larger and more open fields than the rest of the Country and the same yeelding Barley most plenteously Two little Townes it sheweth and no more that are memorable Farther within upon the Creeke is Pullhely that is that Salt Meare or Poole more outward by the Irish Sea hat beateth upon the other side of the Bi-land is Nevin a Village having a Merket kept in it wherein the Nobility of England in the yeere of our Lord 1284. in a Triumph over the Welsh did celebrate the memory of Arthur the great as Florilegus writeth with Iustes Turnaments and festivall pompe If any other Townes flourished here then were they destroied when Hugh Earle of Chester Robert of Rudland and Guarin of Salop entring into this Country first of all the Normans so wasted this Promontory that for the space of seven whole yeeres it lay dispeopled and desolate From Nevin the shore pointed and endented with one or two elbowes lying out into the sea tendeth Northward and then turning afront North-east by a narrow sea or Frith they call it Menai it serveth the Isle Anglesey from the firme land Upon this straight or narrow sea stood SEGONTIUM a City which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of some reliques of the walles I saw neere unto a little Church built in honour of Saint Pulblicius It tooke the name of a River running by the side of it which yet at this day is called Seiont and issueth out of the Poole Lin-Peru In which there is a kinde of fish peculiar to that water and seene no where else called by the dwellers there Tor-coch of the belly that is somewhat red Now seeing that in an ancient copie of Ptolomee SETANTIORUM PORTUS is here placed which according to other copies is set farther off if I should reade in stead of it SEGONTIORUM PORTUS that is the Haven of the Segontians and say it stood upon the mouth of this River I should perhaps aime at the truth if not yet should I obtaine pardon for my conjecture of a courteous Reader This Citie Ninnius called Caer Custenith and hee that wrote the life of Gruffin the Sonne of Conan recordeth that Hugh Earle of Chester built a Castle in Hean Caer Custenith that is as the Latine Interpreter translâ—teth it in the auncient Citie of Constantine the Emperour And Matthew of Westminster writeth but let him make it good if he can that the bodie of Constantius Father to Constantine the Great was here found in the yeere of our Lord 1283. and honourably bestowed in the Church of the new Citie by the commandement of King Edward the First Who out of the ruines of this Towne at the same time raised the Citie Caer-narvon somewhat higher upon the Rivers mouth so as that on the West and North-sides it is watered therewith Which as it was called Caer-narvon because it standeth right ouer against the Island Mona for so much
Temple of Bellona by the errour of a rusticall Augur or Soothsaying Priest At which time the Tribunal or Justice Haul of this City was in this respect most happy because therein sat to minister justice that Oracle of the law Aemelius Paulus Papinianus as Forcatulus witnesseth And from this place it was for certaine that Severus and Antoninus Emperours being consulted in a case or question of Right gave forth their Imperiall constitution De rei Vindicatione An hundred yeeres or thereabout after the death of Severus Fl. Valerius Constantius sirnamed Chlorus an Emperour surpassing in all vertue and Christian piety who came hether When the Gods as the Panegyrist saith called him now to the inmost entry and doore of the earth ended his life also in this City and was deified as we may see by ancient Coines And albeit Florilegus recordeth that his Tombe was found in Wales as I have said yet men of credite have enformed me that in our fathers remembrance when Abbaies were suppressed and pulled downe in a certaine Vault or crowdes or a little Chappell under the ground wherein Constantius was supposed to have beene buried there was found a Lampe burning for Lazius writeth that in ancient time they preserved light in Sepulchres by resolving gold artificially into a liquid and fatty substance which should continue burning a long time and for many ages together This Emperor begat of his former wife Helena CONSTANTINE THE GREAT THE DELIVERER OF ROME CITY as ancient inscriptions give testimony THE FOUNDER OF PEACE AND THE REPAIRER OF THE COMMON VVEALTH Who was present in Yorke at his fathers last gaspe and forthwith proclaimed Emperour The souldiers as the Panegyricall Oratour saith regarding rather the good of the State than private affections cast the purple robe upon him whiles hee wept and put spurs to his horse to avoid the importunity of the Army attempting and requiring so instantly to make him Emperour But the happinesse of the State overcame his modestie Whence it is that the Author of the Panegyricall oration crieth out in these words O fortunate Britaine and now blessed above all lands which first sawest Constantine Emperor Hence it may be gathered in what and how great estimation Yorke was in those daies seeing the Romane Emperours Court was there held For our owne Country Writers record that this City was by Constantius adorned and graced with an Episcopall See But yet that Taâ—rinus the Martyr Bishop of Eureux sat heere and governed I will not say as others doe For Vincentius out of whom they sucked this errour would by his owne words convince me of untruth But when the Romanes were departed and had left Britaine for a prey to barbarous Nations this City sore afflicted with many calamities suffered her part also of miseries and was little or nothing better about the end of the Scottish or Saxons Warres than a poore small shadow of a great name For when Paulinus preached Christian Religion to the English Saxons in this Country it lay so desolate that there remained not so much as a Chappell in it for King Edwin to bee baptized in Who in the yeere after Christs Birth 627. built a little Oratory of wood and when as afterward he went in hand with building a greater Church of stone scarce had he laid the foundation thereof when he was prevented by death and left it to be finished by his Successour Oswald Ever since that time the Ecclesiasticall Dignity in this Church encreased and by a Pall sent unto it from Honorius the Pope became a Metropolitane City which beside twelve Bishoprickes in England exercised the power of a Primate over all the Bishops of Scotland But many yeeres since Scotland withdrew it selfe from this her Metropolitane and the Metropolitane City it selfe hath so devoured other Bishoprickes adjoyning being but little to say truth and of small account that it hath now but foure within the owne Dioecese namely the Bishoprickes of Durrham of Chester of Carlile and of Man or Sodorensis in the Isle of Man And the Archbishop Egbert who flourished about the yeere of our Salvation 740. erected at Yorke A most famous Library the Cabinet as I may so terme it these be the words of William of Malmesbury and Closet of all liberall Arts. Touching which Library Alcwin of Yorke Schoolemaster to Charles the Great first Founder of the University of Paris and the onely Honour of this City in an Epistle to the said Charles wrote thus Give mee the bookes of deeper and more exquisite scholasticall learning such as I had in mine owne Country by the good and most devout industry of the Archbishop Egbert And if it please your wisedome I will send backe some of your owne servants who may exemplifie out of them all those things that be necessary and bring the floures of Britaine into France that there may not be a Garden of learning enclosed onely within Yorke walles but that streames of Paradise may be also at Towres Then also it was that Princes bestowed many and great livings and lands upon the Church of Yorke especially Ulphus the sonne of Toral I note so much out of an old booke that there may plainly appeare a custome of our ancestour in endowing Churches with livings This Ulphus aforesaid ruled in the West part of Deira and by reason of the debate that was like to arise betweene his sonnes the elder and the younger about their Lordships and Signiories after his death forthwith hee made them all alike For without delay hee went to Yorke tooke the horne with him out of which hee was wont to drinke filled it with wine and before the Altar of God and blessed Saint Peter Prince of the Apostles kneeling upon his knees he dranke and thereby enfeoffed them in all his lands and revenewes Which horne was there kept as a monument as I have heard untill our fathers daies I might seeme to speake in derogation of the Clergy if I should report what secret heart-burnings or rather open enmities flashed out betweene the Archbishops of Yorke and of Canterbury upon worldly ambition whiles with great wast of their wealth but more losse of their credite and reputation they bickered most eagerly about the Primacy For the Church of Yorke as he writeth inferiour though it were unto that of Canterbury in riches yet being equall in dignity albeit of later time founded and advanced on high with the same power that Canterbury hath confirmed also with the like authority of Apostolicall Priviledges tooke it ill to bee subject unto that of Canterbury by vertue of a Decree of Alexander of Rome who ordained That the Church of Yorke ought to be subject unto Canterbury and in all things to obey the constitutions of the Archbishop thereof as Primate of all Britaine in such matters as appertaine to Christian Religion Concerning the Archbishops of Yorke it is no part verily of my purpose to write any thing heere although there bee very many of
them who deserve for their vertue and piety to bee renowned Let it suffice to note in a word that from Paulinus the first Archbishop consecrated in the yeere of our Redemption 625. there have sitten in that See threescore and five Archbishops unto the yeere 1606. in which D. Tobie Matthew a most reverend Prelate for the ornaments of vertue and piety for learned eloquence and continuall exercise of teaching was translated hither from the Bishopricke of Durrham This City for a time flourished very notably under the English Saxons dominion untill the Danes like a mighty storme thundring from out of the North-East defaced it againe with merveilous great ruines and by killing and slaying disteined it with bloud which that Alcuine aforesaid in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland may seeme to have presaged before What signifieth saith he that raining of bloud which in Lent we saw at Yorke the head City of the whole Kingdome in Saint Peters Church to fall downe violently in threatning wise from the top of the roufe in the North part of the house and that in a faire day May it not bee thought that bloud is comming upon the Land from the North parts Verily soone after it was embrued with bloud and did pine away with most miserable calamities when the Danes spoiled wasted and murrhered all where ever they came And verily in the yeere 867. the wals were so battered and shaken by reason of continuall Warres that Osbright and Ella Kings of Northumberland whiles they pursewed the Danes easily brake into the City who being both of them slaine in a most bloudy battaile in the very middest of the City left the victory unto the Danes Whereupon William of Malmesbury writeth in this manner Yorke alwaies exposed first to the rage of the Northren Nations sustained the barbarous assaults of the Danes and groaned being pitteously shaken with manifold ruines But as the very same Authour witnesseth King Athelstone wonne it perforce out of the Danes hands and overthrew the Castle quite which they had heere fortified Neither for all this was it altogether free from warres in the times next ensuing whiles that age ranne fatall for the destruction of Cities But the Normans as they ended these miseries so they made almost a finall hand of Yorke also For when the sonnes of Sueno the Dane had landed in these parts with a Danish Fleete of 240. Saile the Normans lying in Garison who kept two Forts within the City fearing least the houses in the Suburbes might stand the enemy in stead to fill up the Ditches withall set them on fire but by reason the winde rose highly the fire was so carried and spred throughout that City that now it was set a burning when the Danes breaking in upon them made pitifull slaughter in every place having put the Normans to the sword and keeping alive William Mallet and Gilbert Gant two principall persons that they might be tithed with the souldiers For every tenth man of the Normans they chose out by lot to be executed Whereupon King William the Conquerour was so incensed with desire of revenge that he shewed his cruelty upon the Citizens by putting them all to death as if they had taken part with the Danes and upon the City it selfe by setting it on fire afresh and as William of Malmesbury saith Hee so depopulated and defaced the Villages adjoyning and the sinewes of that fertile Region were so cut by the spoiles there committed and booties raised and the ground for the space of threescore miles lay so untilled that if a stranger had then seene the Cities that in times were of high account the Towres which with their lofty toppes threatned the skie and the fields that were rich in pastures hee could not but sigh and lament yea and if an ancient inhabitant had beheld the same hee could not have knowne them How great Yorke had beene aforetime Domesday booke shall tell you in these words In King Edward the Confessours time there were in Yorke City sixe Divisions or Shires besides that of the Archbishops One was laid waste for the Castles or Forts In the five Divisions were 1428. dwelling Mansions to give entertainement And in the Archbishops Shire or Division 200. dwelling Mansions likewise After these woefull overthrowes our countryman Necham thus versified of it Visito quam foelix Ebrancus condidit urbem Petro se debet pontificalis apex Civibus hac toties viduata novÃsque repleta Diruta prospexit moenia saepe sua Quid manus hostilis queat est experta frequenter Sed quid nunc pacis otia longa fovent The City that Great Ebrauk built I come now for to view Whereof the See pontificall is to Saint Peter due This many times laid desolate and peopled new hath beene Her wals cast downe and ruinate full often hath it seene What mischiefe hostile hands could worke not once nor twice it found What then since now long time of peace doth keepe it safe and sound For in his time when after these troublesome stormes a most pleasant calme of peace presently ensued it rose of it selfe againe and flourished afresh although the Scots and Rebels both did oftentimes make full account to destroy it But under the Raigne of King Stephen it caught exceeding great harme by casualty of fire wherein were consumed the Cathedrall Church the Abbay of Saint Mary and other religious houses yea and that noble and most furnished Library as it is thought which Alcuin hath recorded to have been founded by Archbishop Egeldred his Praeceptour As for the Abbay of Saint Mary it quickly recovered the former dignity by new buildings but the Cathedrall Church lay longer ere it held up head againe and not before King Edward the First his time For then John Roman Treasurer of the Church laid the foundation of a new worke which his sonne John William Melton and John Thoresby all of them Archbishops brought by little and little to that perfection and beauty which now it sheweth yet not without the helping hand of the Nobility and Gentry thereabout especially of the Percies and the Vavasours which the armes of their houses standing in the very Church and their images at the West gate of the Church doe shew Percies pourtraied with a peece of timber and Vavasours with a stone in their hands for that the one supplied the stone the other the timber for this new building This Church as he reporteth who wrote the life of Aeneas Sylvius who was Pope Pius the second and that upon the Popes owne relation For workmanship and greatnesse is memorable over all the world and the Chappell most lightsome the glasse-windowes whereof are fast bound betweene pillars that bee most slender in the mids This Chappell is that most dainty and beautifull Chapter-house in which this verse stands painted in golden letters Ut Rosa flos florum sic est Domus ista Domorum The floure of floures a Rose men call So is
this house of housen all About the same time also the Citizens fensed the City round about with new walles and many towres and bulwarkes set orderly in divers places yea and ordained very good and holsome lawes for the governement thereof King Richard the Second granted it to bee a County incorporate by it selfe and King Richard the Third beganne to repaire the Castle And that nothing might be wanting King Henry the Eighth within the memory of our fathers appointed heere a Councell not unlike to the Parliaments in France for to decide and determine the causes and controversies of these North parts according to equity and conscience which consisteth of a Lord President certaine Counsellers at the Princes pleasure a Secretary and under Officers As touching the Longitude of Yorke our Mathematicians have described it to be two and twenty Degrees and twenty five Scruples the Latitude 54. degrees and 10. scruples Hitherto have we treated of the West part of this shire and of Yorke City which is reckoned neither in the one part nor the other but enjoyeth peculiar liberties and hath jurisdiction over the Territory adjoyning on the West side Which they call the Liberty of Ansty others the Ancienty of the Antiquity but other have derived it very probably from the Dutch word Anstossen which betokeneth limits And now for a conclusion have heere what Master John Jonston of Aberden hath but a while since written in verse of Yorke Praesidet extremis Arctoae finibus orae Urbs vetus in veteri facta subinde nova Romanis Aquilis quondam Ducibúsque superba Quam post barbarica diripuere manus Pictus atrox Scotus Danus Normannus Anglus Fulmina in hanc Martis detonuere sui Post diras rerum clades tótque aspera fata Blandiùs aspirans aura serena subit LONDINUM caput est regni urbs prima Britanni EBORACUM à primâ jure secunda venit In parts remote of Northren tract there stands as soveraine A City old but yet of old eftsoones made new againe Whilom of Romane Legions and Captaines proud it was But since by forces barbarous sacked and spoil'd alasse The Picts so fierce the Scots and Danes Normans and Englishmen 'Gainst it their bolts of dreadfull war have thundred now and then Yet after sundry bitter blasts and many a cursed clap A milder gale of peacefull daies hath brought it better hap Of British Kingdome LONDON is chiefe seat and principall And unto it there goes by right Yorke City next of all Ouse now leaving Yorke being otherwhiles disquieted and troubled with that whirling encounter of contrary waters and forceable eddies which some call Higra runneth downe through Bishops Thorpe called Saint Andrewes Thorpe before that Walter Grey Archbishop of Yorke purchased it with ready money and to prevent the Kings Officers who are wont rigorously to seize upon Bishops Temporalties when the See is vacant gave it to the Deane and Chapter of Yorke with this condition that they should alwayes yeeld it to his Successours Of whom Richard Le Sicrope Archbishop of Yorke a man of a firy spirit and ready to entertaine rebellion was condemned in this very place of high Treason by King Henry the Fourth against whom he had raised an insurrection Afterward Cawood a Castle of the Archbishops standeth upon the same River which King Athelstan as I have read gave unto the Church Just against which on the other side of the River lyeth Ricall where Harald Haardread arrived with a great Fleet of Danes Then Ouse passeth hard by Selby a little Towne well peopled and of good resort where King Henry the First was borne and where his father King William the First built a faire Abbay in memory of Saint German who happily confuted that venemous Pelagian Heresie which oftentimes as the Serpent Hydra grew to an head againe in Britaine The Abbats of this Church as also of Saint Maries in Yorke were the onely Abbats in the North parts that had place in the Parliament house And so Ouse at length speedeth away to Humber leaving first Escricke a seat of the Lascelles sometimes to be remembred for that King James advanced Sir Thomas Knivet the owner thereof Lord Knivet to the honour of Baron Knivet of Escricke in the yeere 1607. And afterward passing by Drax a little Village famous long since for a Monastery founded there by Sir William Painell and whereas William of Newburgh writeth Philip of Tollevilla had a Castle most strongly fensed with Rivers Woods and Marishes about it which he confident upon the courage of his followers and his provision of victuals and armour defended against King Stephen untill it was wonne by assault EBORACENSIS Comitatus ovius Incolae olin Brigantes appellabantur pars Orientalis vulgo EAST RIDING EAST-RIDING EAST-RIDING the second part of this Region wherein Ptolomee placed the PARISI lyeth Eastward from Yorke On the North side and the West it is bounded with the River Darwent that runneth downe with a winding course on the South with the Salt water of Humber and on the East with the German Ocean Upon the Sea side and along Darwent the Soile is meetly good and fertile But in the mids it is nothing else but an heape of Hilles rising up on high which they call Yorkes wold Darwent springing not farre from the shore first taketh his way Westward then hee windeth into the South by Aiton and Malton whereof because they belong to the North part of the Shire I will speake in due place No sooner is hee entred into this Quarter but downe hee runneth not farre from the ruines of the old Castle Montferrant The Lords whereof were in times past the Fossards men of noble parentage and wealthy withall But when William Fossard Ward to the King being committed unto William le Grosse Earle of Aumarle as to his Guardian and now come to his yeeres abused his sister the Earle in wreckfull displeasure for this fact of his laid this Castle even with the ground and forced the young Gentleman to forsake his Country Howbeit after the Earles death he recovered his inheritance againe and left one onely daughter behinde him who being marryed unto R. de Torneham bare a daughter marryed to Peter de Mauley whose heires and successours being bettered in their estate by this inheritance of the Fossards became great and honourable Barons Not farre from hence is situate upon the River side Kirkham as one would say of Church-place For a Priory of Chanons was there founded by Walter Espec a man of high place and calling by whose daughter a great estate accrewed to the family of the Lord Rosses Then but somewhat lower Darwent had a City of his owne name which Antonine the Emperour calleth DERVENTIO and placeth it seven miles from YORKE The booke of Notices maketh mention of a Captaine over the Company Derventiensis under the Generall of Britaine that resided in it and in the Saxons Empire it seemeth to have beene
his owne hopes and so hee raised that deadly Warre betweene the Houses of Yorke and Lancaster distinguished by the white and red Rose wherein himselfe soone after lost his life at Wakefield King Henry the Sixth was foure times taken Prisoner and in the end despoiled both of his Kingdome and life Edward Earle of March sonne to the said Richard obtained the Crowne and being deposed from the same recovered it againe thus inconstant fortune disported herselfe lifting up and throwing downe Princes at her pleasure many Princes of the royall bloud and a number of the Nobility lost their lives those hereditary and rich Provinces in France belonging to the Kings of England were lost the wealth of the Realme wholly wasted and the poore people thereof overwhelmed with all manner of misery Edward now being established in his royall Throne and in the ranke of Kings carrying the name of Edward the Fourth gave unto Richard his second sonne the Title of Duke of Yorke who together with king Edward the Fifth his brother was by their Unkle Richard the Third murdered Then king Henry the Seventh granted the same Title unto his younger sonne who afterwards was crowned king of England by the name of Henry the Eight And even now of late King James invested Charles his second sonne whom before hee had created in Scotland Duke of Albany Marquesse of Ormond Earle of Rosse and Baron of Ardmanoch a childe not full foure yeeres of age Duke of Yorke by cincture of a sword imposition of a Cap and Coronet of gold upon his head and by delivering unto him a verge of gold after he had according to the order with due complements made the day before both him and eleven more of Noble Parentage Knights of the Bath Reckoned there are in this County Parishes 459. under which he very many Chappels for number of Inhabitants equall unto great Parishes RICHMOND-SHIRE THE rest of this Country which lyeth toward the North-West and carryeth a great compasse is called Richmond-shire or Richmount-shire taking the name from a Castle which Alan Earle of little Britaine had built unto whom William the Conquerour gave this Shire which before time belonged to Eadwin an Englishman by these short letters Patents as it is set downe in the booke of Richmond Fees I William sirnamed Bastard King of England doe give and grant unto thee my Nephew Alane Earle of Britaine and to thine heires for ever all and every the Manour houses and lands which late belonged to Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire with the Knights fees and other liberties and customes as freely and in as honourable wise as the said Eadwin held the same Given at our Leaguer before the City of Yorke This Shire most of it lieth very high with ragged rockes and swelling mountaines whose sloping sides in some places beare good grasse the bottomes and vallies are not altogether unfruitfull The hilles themselves within are stored with lead pit-coale and Coper For in a Charter of king Edward the Fourth there is mention made of a Mine or Delfe of Copper neere unto the very towne of Richmond But covetousnesse which driveth men even as farre as to hell hath not yet pierced into these hilles affrighted perchance with the difficulty of carriage whereas there have beene found in the tops of these mountaines as also in other places stones like unto sea winkles or cockles and other sea fish if they be not the wonders of nature I will with Orosius a Christian Historiographer deeme them to be undoubted tokens of the generall deluge that surrounded the face of the whole earth in Noahs time When the Sea saith he in Noahs daies overflowed all the earth and brought a generall floud so that the whole Globe thereof being therewith surrounded and covered there was one face as of the Firmament so also of the Sea The soundest Writers most evidently teach That all mankinde perished a few persons excepted who by vertue of their faith were reserved alive for offspring and propagation Howbeit even they also have witnessed that some there had beene who although they were ignorant of the times past and knew not the Authour himselfe of times yet gathered conjecturally as much by giving a guesse by those rough stones which wee are wont to finde on hilles remote from the Sea resembling Cocles and Oisters yea and oftentimes eaten in hollow with the waters Where this Country bordereth upon Lancashire amongst the mountaines it is in most places so waste solitary unpleasant and unsightly so mute and still also that the borderers dwelling thereby have called certaine Riverets creeping this way Hell-beckes But especially that about the head of the River Ure which having a Bridge over it of one entire stone falleth downe such a depth that it striketh in a certaine horror to as many as looke downe And in this Tract there be safe harbors for Goates and Deere as well red as fallow which for their huge bignesse with their ragged and branching hornes are most sightly The River Ure which wee have often spoken of before hath his fall heere out of the Westerne Mountaines and first of all cutting through the middest of the Vale called Wentsedale whiles it is yet but small as being neere unto his Spring-head where great flockes of Sheepe doe pasture and which in some places beareth Lead stones plentifully is encreased by a little River comming out of the South called Baint which with a great noise streameth out of the Poole Semer. At the very place where these Rivers meete and where there stand a few small Cotages which of the first Bridge made over Ure they call Baintbrig there lay in old time a Garison of the Romanes whereof the very Reliques are at this day remaining For on the toppe of an hill which of a Fort or Burge they now call Burgh appeare the ground workes of an ancient Hold containing about five acres of ground in compasse and beneath it Eastward many tokens of some old habitation and dwelling places Where amongst many other signes of Roman Antiquity I have seene of late this fragment of an antique Inscription in a very faire letter with Winged Victory supporting the same IMP CAES. L. SEPTIMIO PIO PERTINACI AUGU IMP CAESARI M. AURELIO APIO FELICI AUGUSTO BRACCHIO CAEMENTICIUM VI NER VIORUM SUB CURALA SENECINON AMPLISSIMIO PERIL VISPIUS PRAELEGIO By this we may guesse that the said hold at Burgh was in times past named BRACCHIUM which before time had been made of turfe but now built with stone and the same layed with good morter Also that the sixth Cohort of the Nervians lay there in Garison who may seeme to have had also their place of Summer aboade in that high hill hard by fensed with a banke and trench about it which now they tearme Ethelbury And not long since there was digged up the Statue of Aurelius Commodus the Emperour who as Lampridius writeth was sirnamed by his flattering
of the whole bloud marryed to Charles of Bloys King Edward the Third affecting the said John Earle of Montfort and to strengthen his owne party in France favoured the Title of the said John Earle of Montfort for that he was a man and neerer in degree and therefore seemed to have better right and to bee preferred before his Niece to whom the Parliament of France had adjudged it and which is more for that he sware fealty to him as King of France for the Dutchy of Britaine In these respects he granted the Earldome of Richmond unto the said Iohn untill he might recover his owne possessions in France which being soone after recovered by aide of the English the said King bestowed it upon Iohn of Gaunt his sonne And he afterward surrendred it againe into the King his fathers hands for other possessions Who forthwith created Iohn Earle of Montfort Duke of Britaine sirnamed The valiant Earle of Richmond unto whom hee had given his daughter to wife that thereby hee might more surely oblige unto him a warlique person and then ill affected to the French But in the fourth yeere of Richard the Second he by authority of the Parliament forfaited his Earldome because he adhered unto the French King against England howbeit hee kept still the bare Title and left it unto his posterity But the possession was granted to Dame Ioane of Britaine his sister and the widdow of Ralph Lord Basset of Draiton After her decease first Ralph Nevill Earle of Westmorland had the Castle and Earldome of Richmond for the tearme of his owne life by the gift of King Henry the Fourth And after him Iohn Duke of Bedford Then king Henry the Sixth conferred the Title of Earle of Richmond upon Edmund of Hadham his halfe brother by the mothers side with this speciall and peculiar prerogative To take his place in Parliament next unto Dukes After him succeeded Henry his sonne who was King of England by the name of Henry the Seventh But during his exile George Duke of Clarence and Richard Duke of Glocester received the Signiory of Richmond but not the Title from their brother king Edward the Fourth Last of all Henry the base sonne of king Henry the Eighth was by his father invested Duke of Richmond who departed this life without issue 1535. As for Sir Thomas Grey who was made Baron of Richmount by king Henry the Sixth was not Lord of this Richmond but of a place in Bedfordshire called Rugemound and Richmount Greies There are contained in this Shire Parishes 104. beside Chappels BISHOPRICK OF DVRHAM THe Bishopricke of Durham or Duresme bordering on the North side upon Yorke-shire is shaped in fashion of a triangle the utmost angle whereof is made up toward the West where the Northren limit and the Spring-head of Tees doe meete One of the sides which lieth Southward is bounded in with the continued course of the river Tees running downe along by it the other that looketh Northward is limited first with a short line from the utmost point to the river Derwent then with Derwent it selfe untill it hath taken unto it Chopwell a little river and afterward with the river Tine The Sea coast fashioneth out the Base of the Triangle which lieth Eastward and the German Ocean with a mighty roaring and forcible violence beareth thereupon On that part where it gathereth narrow to the Westerne angle the fields are naked and barren the woods very thin the hills bare without grasse but not without mynes of iron As for the Vallies they are reasonably grassie and that high hill which I termed the Apennine of England cutteth in twain this angle But on the East part or Base of the Triangle as also on both sides the ground being well manured is very fruitful and the increase yeeldeth good recompence for the husbandmans toile it is also well garnished with meddowes pastures and corn-fields beset everywhere with townes and yeelding plenty of Sea coale which in many places we use for fewell Some will have this coale to be an earthy black Bitumen others to be Gagates and some againe the Lâ—pis Thracius all which that great Philosopher in Minerals George Agricola hath prooved to be one and the same thing Surely this of ours is nothing else but Bitumen or a clammy kind of cley hardned with heat under the earth and so throughly concocted For it yeeldeth the smell of Bitumen and if water bee sprinkled upon it it burneth more vehemently and the cleerer but whether it may bee quenched with oile I have not yet tried And if the Stone called Obsidianus be in our country I would take that to bee it which is found in other places of England and commonly called Canole cole For it is hard bright light and somewhat easie to be cloven piece meale into flakes and being once kindled it burneth very quickly But let us leave these matters to those that search more deeply into Natures closets All this country with other territories also thereto adjoyning the Monasticall writers tearme the Land or Patrimonie of Saint Cuthbert For so they called whatsoever belonged to the Church of Durham whereof S. Cuthbert was the Patron who in the primitive state of the English Church being Bishop of Lindefarn led all his life in such holinesse and so sincerely that he was enrolled among the English Saints Our kings also and Peeres of the Realme because they verily perswaded themselves that he was their Tutelar Saint and Protectour against the Scots went not onely in Pilgrimage with devotion to visite his body which they beleeved to have continued still found and uncorrupt but also gave very large possessions to this Church and endowed the same with many immunities King Edgfride bestowed upon Cuthbert himselfe whiles he lived great revenewes in the very City of Yorke and Creake also whereof I spake and the City Luguballia as wee reade in the History of Durham King Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane whom hee made Lieutenant of Northumberland gave afterwards all the Lands betweene the Rivers Were and Tine unto Cuthbert and to those who ministred in his Church to have and to hold for ever as their rightfull Possession These bee the very words in effect of an ancient Booke whence they might have sufficient maintenance to live upon and not be pinched with poverty over and besides they ordeined his Church to bee a safe Sanctuary for all fugitives that whosoever for any cause fled unto his Corps should have peaceable being for 37. daies and the same liberty never for any occasion to bee infringed or denyed Edward and Athelstan Kings Knute also or Canutus the Dane who came on his bare feete to Cuthberts Tombe not onely confirmed but enlarged also these liberties In like manner King William the Conquerour since whose time it hath alwayes beene deemed a County Palatine yea and some of the Bishops as Counts Palatine have engraven in their seales a Knight or man at armes in compleat harnesse sitting
CONGAVATA was hereabout in which the second band of the Lergi served in garison for Congavata in the British tongue signifieth The valley by Gavata which now is called short Caud But the very place where this towne stood I cannot precisely point out Betwixt the meeting of these rivers the ancient City Carlile is passing commodiously and pleasantly seated garded on the North side with the chanell of Eden on the East with Peterill on the West with Caud and beside these naturall fenses it is fortified with strong walls of stone with a castle and a citadell as they tearme it In fashion it lyeth somewhat long running out from West to East on the West side is the Castle of a good large compasse which King Richard the third as appeareth by his Armes repaired In the midst almost of the City riseth on high the Cathedrall Church the upper part whereof being the newer is very artificially and curiously wrought yet the nether part is much more ancient But on the East side it is defended with the Citadel that K. Henry the eighth built strongly with sundry bulwarks The Romans and Britans called this city LUGU-VALLUM and LUGU-BALLIUM or LUGU-BALIA the English Saxons Luell as Bede witnesseth Ptolomee as some think LEUCOPIBIA Ninnius Caer Lualid the ridiculous prophesies of the Britans tearmed it The City of Duball we Carlile and Latine writers by a newer name Carleolum For our Historiographers accord with common consent that Luguballia and Carleolum were the same But in searching out the Etymology thereof good God how hath Leland bestirred him being in the end driven to this point that he thought verily Eden was called Lugus and Ballum came from Vallis that is a vale so that Lugu-ballum soundeth as much as the Vale by Lugus But I if so bee I may also hatch a conjecture would rather suppose but without prejudice that the said termination Vallum and Vallia are derived from that most famous military Vallum or Trench that standeth apparent a little from the City For that Picts Wall which was afterwards set upon the Trench or rampire of Severus appeareth somewhat beyond the River Eden which now hath a woodden bridge over it neere unto a little village called Stanwicke and went over the very river just against the Castle where within the chanell of the river mighty stones the remaines thereof are yet extant Also Lugus or Lucus amongst the ancient Celis or Gaules who spake the same language that once the Britans did signifieth a Tower as we may learn by Pomponius Mela. For that which in Antonine is named LUGO-AUGUSTI hee calleth TURRIM AUGUSTI that is The Tower of Augustus so that Luga-Vallum is as much to say as the Tower or Fort by the wall From this originall if the Frenchmen had derived Lugudunum as it were The tower on an hill and Lucotecia for so in old time they called that city which we doâ— Lutetia that is Paris as it were The faire Tower for so those words signifie in the British tongue peradventure they had aimed neerer unto the marke than in fetching the one from Lutum that is Dirt and that other from Lugdus an imagined King That this Carlile flourished in the time of the Romanes divers tokens of antiquity now and then digged up there and the famous mention of it in those dayes doe sufficiently prove After the furious outrages also of the Picts and Scots were allayed it retained some part still of the ancient dignity and was counted a City For in the yeere of Christ 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland passed a gift unto that holy Saint Cuthbert in this forme I have given unto him also the City called Luguballia and â—5 miles round about it at which time also it was walled strong The Citizens saith Bede brought Cuthbert to see the walls of their City and a fountain or Well in it built in times past according to the wonderfull workmanship of the Romanes who at the very same time as saith the book of Durham ordained there a Covent of Nuns with an Abbesse and Schooles Afterwards being defaced and brought to exceeding ruin by the Danes it lay about 200. yeeres buried under his owne ashes untill it began againe to flourish under the government and favour of King William Rufus who repaired it with new edifices built the Castle and placed a Colony there first of Flemmings whom streightwaies upon better advice he removed into Wales but afterwards of Southerne Englishmen Then was there seen as William of Malmesbury writeth A dining chamber after the Roman fashion built of stone arched with vaults so that no spitefull force of tempests nor furious flame of fire could ever shake or hurt it in the forefront whereof was this Inscription MARII VICTORIAE that is â—o the victory of Marius This Marius some will needs have to be Arviragus the Britan others that Marius who being proclaimed Emperour against Gallienus was named to bee of wonderfull strength that as writers report of him He had in his fingers no veines but all sinewes Yet have I learned that another making mention of this stone saith it was not inscribed MARII VICTORIAE but MARTI VICTORI that is To victorious Mars which perhaps may better content some and seeme to come nearer unto the truth Carlile being now better peopled and of greater resort had as they write for Earle or more truly for Lord thereof Ralph Meschines from whom came the Earles of Chester and at the same time being raised by King Henry the first to an Episcopall dignity had Artalph for the first Bishop Which the Monks of Durham have written was prejudiciall to their Church when Ranulph say they Bishop of Durham was banished and the Church had none to defend her certain Bishops laid Carlile and Tividale to their Dioeceses But how the Scotish under the reign of Stephen won this City and King Henry the second recovered it how also King Henry the third committed the castle of Carlile and the County to Robert Vipont how likewise in the yeere 1292. it was burnt together with the Cathedrall Church and the Suburbs and how Robert Briâ— King of Scots in the yeere 1315. land siege unto it in vaine you may finde in the common Chronicles And yet it seemes it would quit my paines to adjoyne here two inscriptions that I saw here the one in Thomas Aglion by his house neere unto the Citadell but made in the worse age DIIS MANIBU SMARCI TROJANI AUGUSTINANI TUM FA CIENDUM CUR A VIT AFEL AMMILLUSIMA CONJUX KARISS Whereunto is adjoined the image of a man of Armes on horsebacke armed at all peeces with a launce in his hand As for the other it standeth in the garden of Thomas Middleton in a very large and faire letter thus LEG VI VIC P. F. G. P. R. F. Which is as I ghesse Legio Sexta Victrix Pia Felix the rest let some other decipher The onely Earle that
place might still remaine entire In honour of Saint Oswald King they built a Chappell there And another in praise of him wrote in that unlearned age not unlearnedly thus Quis fuit Alcides quis Caesar Iulius aut quis Magnus Alexander Alcides se superasse Fertur Alexander mundum sed Iulius hostem Se simul Oswaldus mundum vicit hostem What was to Oswald Hercules What Iulius Caesar what Great Alexander Hercules is named much for that Himselfe he won Xander the world Iulius made foes to flye Oswald at once conquer'd himselfe the world and enemy Beneath Saint Oswalds both Tines meet in one after that South-Tine which keepeth just pace in parallel as it were with the wall about two miles from it hath passed by Langley Castle where sometimes under King John Sir Adam de Tindale had his Barony which afterwards came to Sir Nicolas Bolteby and of late belonged to the Percies and at Aidon runneth under the woodden weake bridge and shaking through the violence of the streame Tine by this time being now broader and broader continueth his course in one channell apace toward the Ocean by Hexham which Bede calleth Hangustald but the old English-Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 That this was named in the Romans time AXLELODUNUM where the first Cohort of the Spaniards had their station both the name implieth the high situation upon an hill answerable to the name when as the ancient Britans called an hill Dunum But as touching this heare what Richard Prior of this place saith who flourished 500. yeeres agoe Not farre from the river Tine Southward there standeth a towne now in these dayes verily but of meane bignesse and slenderly inhabited but in times past as the remaines of antiquity do beare witnesse very large and stately This place of the little river Hextold running downe by it and swelling otherwhiles like unto a flood with a swift streame is name Hextoldesham which town Etheldreda the wife of King Egfrid gave unto Saint Wilfrid in the yeere 675. that hee should exalt it with an Episcopall See who built there a Church that for the artificiall frame and passing beauty went beyond all the Minsters in England Take with you also that which William of Malmesbury wrote This was Crown-land when Wilfrid the Bishop exchanged with Queen Etheldreda other lands It was wonderfull to see what buildings were erected there with mighty high walls and how they were set out contrived with divers turning in out by winding staires all polished and garnished by the curious workmanship of Masons and Pargetters whom the hope of his liberality had allured from Rome so that these buildings carried a shew of the Romanes stately magnificence and stood very long struggling with time The foresaid King Egfrid placed an Episcopall See in this little City But that dignity after the eighth Bishop vanished cleane away whilest the Danish warres were at the hottest And so ever since it was counted onely a manour or Township belonging to the Archibishops of Yorke before the exchange made with King Henry the eighth wherby they resigned up their right This place was also renowned by reason of that bloudy battaile wherein John Nevill Marquesse Montacute encountred the leaders of the Lancastrian Faction with much courage and with greater successe put them to flight and therefore was created Earle of Northumberland by King Edward the fourth But now all the glory that it hath is in that ancient Abbey a part whereof is converted into a faire dwelling house belonging to Sir John Foster Knight As for the Church it standeth whole and sound save that the West end onely thereof is pulled downe and I assure you a right stately and sumptuous building it is within the quire whereof is to be seene an ancient tombe of a noble-man of that warlike family of the Umfranvils as appeareth by his Escutcheon of Armes lying with his legges acrosse After which fashion in those dayes were they onely enterred that I may note so much by the way who tooke upon them the crosse and were marked with the badge of the crosse for sacred warfare to recover the Holy land from the Mahometans and Turkes Hard by the East end also of this Church upon the brow of an hill are erected two most strong bulwarks of free stone which belong as I have heard unto the Archbishop of Yorke From hence we went Eastward and came to Dilston a mansion house of the Ratcliffes In old evidence it is found written Divelstone of a little river running into Tine which Bede called Divelesburn where as he writeth Oswald having the faith of Christ for his armour and defence in a set battaile slew Cedwalla the Britan that wicked and horrible Tyrant who had already slaine two Kings of Northumberland and depopulated the country all over On the other banke of Tine lieth CURIA OTTADINORUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention it may seeme by the distance thereof to bee CORSTOPITUM in Antonine called at this day of the bridg Corbridge in Hovedons Annals Corobridge and in Henry of Huntingdon Cure It can shew nothing now but a Church and a little tower hard by which the Vicars of the Church built and wherein they dwell Howbeit there remaine still sundry reliques of antique worke among which King John searched for ancient treasure supposed to have beene buried there But he was overtaken in his owne vanity and deceived of his great expectation no lesse than Nero when hee searched for the hidden wealth of Dido at Carthage For nothing found hee but stones signed with brasse iron and lead But whoso shall see the heap of rubbish that lieth thereby and is called Colecester will soon say it was some hold of a Romane garrison Forward still upon the same banke wee saw Biwell a proper faire castle which in the reigne of King John was the Barony of Sir Hugh Balliol for which he did owe to the Ward of Newcastle upon Tine thirty Knights service Beneath this Castle there is a very goodly Weare for the catching of Salmons and two solid piles of most firme stone which in times past supported the bridge stand up in the midst of the river From hence Tine running underneath looketh up to Prudhow Castle in ancient bookes written Prodhow situate very pleasantly upon the ridge of an hill This may I ghesse to have beene PROTOLITIA which also is called PROCOLITIA the station of the first band of the Batavians till time tell me more and instruct mee better But it is famous in this regard that in King Henry the second his dayes it valiantly gave the check unto William King of Scots laying siege unto it when as William of Newborrough writeth hee had taken great paines to no purpose to his losse and hurt Afterwards it belonged to the Umfranvils men of great estimation among whom Sir Gilbert Umfranvill flourishing in the profession of armes in right of his wife attained the title of Earle
to the Barons Dacre of Gillesland Nothing I have of any antiquity to say of this towne but that in the yeere of Christ 1215. it was set on fire by the inhabitants themselves in spitefull malice to King John From hence the river Wents-beck passeth by Bothall Castle and the Barony somtimes of Richard Berthram from whose posterity it was devolved unto the Barons of Ogle Upon the bank whereof I have thought this great while whether truly or upon a bare supposall I know not that in old time GLANOVENTA stood which was fortified by the Romans with a garrison of the first Cohort of the Morini for defence of the marches Which the very situation doth as it were perswade and the rivers name together with the signification of the same induceth me to thinke For it is seated within the raunge of the rampire or wall even where the booke of Notices placeth it the rivers name is Wants-beck and GLANOVENTA in the British tongue signifieth the shore or bank of Venta Whence also Glanon a city in France upon the sea-shore wherof Pomponius Mela hath made mention may seeme to have drawn that appellation Not farre hence to let passe little piles and towres of lesse account is to be seene neere unto the shore Withrington or Woderington in the English Saxon tongue of old time called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 an ancient Castle which gave the name unto the Withringtons Gentlemen of good birth and Knights whose valour in the warre hath beene from time to time remarkable Then the river Coquet falleth into the sea which springing among the rough and stony mountaines of Cheviot not farre from his head hath Billesdun upon it from whence sprang the ancient family of the Selbies and somewhat lower Southward Harbottle in the English Saxons tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The station of the Army whence the family of the Harbottles descended that in the ages aforegoing flourished A Castle it had in times past but in the yeere of our salvation 1314. the Scots razed it Close unto this standeth Halyston as one would say Holy stone where the report goeth that Paulinus in the primitive Church of the English nation baptized many thousands And at the verie mouth of Coquet Warkworth a proper faire Castle of the Percies standeth and defendeth the shore where there is a chappell wonderfully built out of a rocke hewen hollow and wrought without beames rafters or anie peeces of timber This Castle King Edward the third gave unto Henrie Percie together with the Mannour of Rochburie Afore time it had beene the Baronie of Roger Fitz-Richard by the gift of Henrie the second King of England who gave also unto his sonne Clavering in Essex whereof at the commandement of King Edward the first they assumed unto them the surname of Clavering leaving the ancient maner of taking their names from the forename or Christian name of the father for before that time they were surnamed according to the forename of the father as Robert Fitz Roger Roger Fitz Iohn c. Part of this inheritance the Nevils entred upon by Fine and Covenant who afterward were Earles of Westmorland and part of it a daughter named Eve inherited who was wedded to Sir Th. Ufford from whose posteritie it came hereditarily unto the Fienes Barons of Dacres But from the younger sonnes branched the Barons of Evers the Evers of Axholme and the Claverings of Kalaly in this Countie and others Hard unto this also lieth Morwick which may likewise boast of the Lords it had whose issue male had an end about the yeere of our Lord 1258. and so the inheritance passed over by the daughters unto the Lumleies Seimors Bulmers and Roscells The shore after this openeth it selfe to give passage unto the river ALAUNUS which being not yet bereft of that name whereby it was knowne unto Ptolomee is called short Alne Upon the bank whereof besides Twifford that is A double fourd where was holden a solemne Synod under King Egfrid and Eslington the habitation of the Collingwoods men renowned for their warlike exploits there sheweth also it selfe Alan-wic in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 now commonly called Anwick a towne ennobled by the victorie of Englishmen wherein our ancestors shewed such valour and prowesse that they tooke William King of Scots and presented him prisoner unto King Henrie the second and fortified besides with a goodly castle which when Malcome the third King of the Scots had by long siege enforced to such extremitie that it was at the point now to bee yeelded up hee was slaine by a souldier that making semblance to deliver unto him the keyes of the Castle hanging at the head of a speare ranne him into the bodie with it And withall his sonne Edward whiles to revenge his fathers death he charged unadvisedly upon the enemie was so wounded that hee died thereof shortly after This was a Baronie sometimes belonging to the Vescies For King Henrie the second gave it unto Eustach Fitz-Iohn father to William Vesci to be held by the service of twelve knights Sir John Vescy of this race returning out of the sacred warre in the Holy-land was the first that brought with him into England the Friers Carmelites and built for them a Covent here in Holme a desart place not unlike to Mount Carmel in Syria William the last of the Vescies made Antonine Bec Bishop of Durham his feofie upon trust that he should deliver this Castle with all the lands lying thereto unto his base sonne the onely childe that he left behind him but the Bishop falsly conveied away from him the inheritance and for readie money sold it unto William Lord Percie since which time it hath evermore belonged to the Percies From hence the shore making divers angles and points passeth by Dunstaburge a Castle belonging to the Duchie of Lancaster which some have untruely supposed to be Bebhan for Bebhane standeth higher and in stead of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 is now called Bamborrow Our Bede where hee reports that this Castle was besieged and burnt by Penda King of the Mercians writeth that Queene Bebba gave it this name but the Floure-gatherer recordeth that Ida the first King of Northumberland built it which hee sensed first with great stakes or piles of timber and afterward with a wall But take here with you the description thereof out of Roger Hoveden Bebba saith hee is a most strong Citie not verie great but containing the space of two or three fields having into it one hollow entrance and the same raised on high with staires after a wonderfull manner and on the pitch of an hill a very faire Church and Westward on the top thereof there is a well set out with marvailous workmanship sweet to drink of and most pure to see to But in our age it is counted a castle rather than a city yet so
matters In criminall causes the Kings chiefe Justice holdeth his Court for the most part at Edenburgh which office the Earles of Argile have executed now for some yeeres And he doth depute two or three Lawyers who have the hearing and deciding of capitall actions concerning life and death or of such as inferre losse of limbs or of all goods In this Court the Defendant is permitted yea in case of high treason to entertaine a Counsellor or Advocate to pleade his cause Moreover in criminall matters there are sometimes by vertue of the Kings commission and authoritie Justices appointed for the deciding of this or that particular cause Also the Sheriffes in their territories and Magistrates in some Burghs may sit in judgement of man-slaughter in case the man-slayer be taken within 24. houres after the deed committed and being found guiltie by a Jurie put him to death But if that time be once overpast the cause is referred and put over to the Kings Iustice or his Deputies The same priviledge also some of the Nobilitie and Gentrie enjoy against theeves taken within their owne jurisdictions There bee likewise that have such Roialties as that in criminall causes they may exercise a jurisdiction within their owne limits and in some cases recall those that dwell within their owne limits and liberties from the Kings Justice howbeit with a caution and proviso interposed That they judge according to Law Thus much briefly have I put downe as one that hath but sleightly looked into these matters yet by the information of the judicious Knight Sir Alexander Hay his Majesties Secretarie for that kingdome who hath therein given me good light But as touching SCOTLAND what a noble countrey it is and what men it breedeth as sometimes the Geographer wrote of Britaine there will within a while more certaine and more evident matter be delivered since that most high and mightie Prince hath set it open now for us which had so long time beene shut from us Meane while I will come unto the description of places the project that I entended especially GADENI or LADENI UPon the Ottadini or Northumberland bordered as next neighbours the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is GADENI who also by the inversion or turning of one letter upside downe are called in some Copies of Ptolomee LADENI seated in that countrey which lieth betweene the mouth of the river Twede and Edenburgh Forth and is at this day divided into many petty Countries the chiefe whereof are Teifidale Twedale Merch and Lothien in Latine Lodeneium under which one generall name alone the Writers of the middle time comprised all the rest TEIFIDALE TEifidale that is to say the Vale by the river Teifie or Teviat lying next unto England among the edges of high craggie hills is inhabited by a warlike nation which by reason of so many encounters in foregoing ages betweene Scottish and English are alwaies most readie for service and sudden invasions The first place among these that wee meet with is Iedburgh a Burrough well inhabited and frequented standing neere unto the confluence of Teifie and Ied whereof it took the name also Mailros a very ancient Monastery wherein at the beginning of our Church were cloistered Monkes of that ancient order and institution that gave themselves to prayer and with their hand-labour earned their living which holy King David restored and replenished with Cistertian Monkes And more Eastward where Twede and Teifie joine in one streame Rosburg sheweth it selfe called also Roxburg and in old time MARCHIDUN because it was a towne in the Marches where stands a Castle that for naturall situation and towred fortifications was in times past exceeding strong Which being surprised and held by the English whiles James the second King of Scots encircled it with a siege hee was by a peece of a great Ordnance that brake slaine untimely in the very floure of his youth a Prince much missed and lamented of his Subjects As for the castle it was yeelded and being then for the most part of it layed even with the ground is now in a manner quite vanished and not to bee seene The territory adjoyning called of it the Sherifdome of Roxburg hath one hereditary Sheriffe out of the family of the Douglasses who is usually called the Sheriffe of Teviot Dale And now hath Roxburg also a Baron Robert Kerr through the favour of King James the sixth out of the family of the Kerrs a famous house and spred into a number of branches as any one in that tract out of which the Fernhersts and others inured in martiall feats have been of great name Twede aforesaid runneth through the middest of a Dale taking name of it replenished with sheepe that beare wooll of great request A very goodly river this is which springing more inwardly Eastward after it hath passed as it were in a streight channell by Drimlar Castle by Peblis a mercate towne which hath for the Sheriff thereof Baron Zeister like as Selkirk hard by hath another out of the family of Murray of Fallohill entertaineth Lauder a riveret at which appeareth Lauder together with Thirlestan where stands a very faire house of Sir John Mettellan late Chancellor of Scotland whom for his singular wisdome King James the sixth created Baron of Thirlestan Then Twede beneath Roxburg augmented with the river of Teviot resorting unto him watereth the Sherifdome of Berwick throughout a great part whereof is possessed by the Humes wherein the chiefe man of that family exerciseth now the jurisdiction of a Sheriffe and so passeth under Berwick the strongest towne of Britain whereof I have spoken already where hee is exceeding full of Salmons and so falleth into the sea MERCHIA MERCH or MERS MERCH which is next and so named because it is a march country lyeth wholly upon the German sea In this first Hume Castle sheweth it selfe the ancient possession of the Lords of Home or Hume who being descended from the family of the Earles of Merch are growne to be a noble and faire spred family out of which Alexander Hume who before was the first Baron of Scotland and Sheriff of Berwick was of late advanced by James King of great Britaine to the title of Earle Hume Neere unto which lieth Kelso famous sometime for the monastery which with thirteen others King David the first of that name built out of the ground for the propagation of Gods glory but to the great empairing of the Crowne land Then is to be seene Coldingham which Bede calleth the City Coldana and the City of Coludum haply COLANIA mentioned by Ptolomee a place consecrated many ages since unto professed Virgins or Nunnes whose chastity is recorded in ancient bookes For that they together with Ebba their Prioresse cut off their owne noses and lips choosing rather to preserve their virginity from the Danes than their beauty and favour and yet for all that the Danes burnt their monasterie and them withall Hard by is Fast-castle a castle of
the Fresian sea and the Scottish sea and the Eulogium Morwiridh Upon this after you be past Tantallon are seated first North-Berwick a famous place sometime for an house there of religious Virgins and then Dyrlton which belonged in times past to the notable family of the Haliburtous and now to S. Tho. Ereskin Captain of the guard whom James K. of great Britain for his happy valour in preserving him against the traiterous attempts of Gowrye first created Baron of Dirlton and afterward advanced him to the honourable title of Vicount Felton making him the first Vicount that ever was in Scotland Against these places there lyeth in the sea not far from the shore the Iland Bas which riseth up as it were all one craggy rocke and the same upright and steep on every side yet hath it a Block-house belonging to it a fountaine also and pastures but it is so hollowed with the waves working upon it that it is almost pierced thorough What a multitude of sea-foules and especially of those geese which they call Scouts and Soland geese flocke hither at their times for by report their number is such that in a cleere day they take away the sunnes light what a sort of fishes they bring for as the speech goeth a hundred garrison souldiers that here lay for defence of the place fed upon no other meat but the fresh fish that they brought in what a quantity of stickes and little twigges they get together for the building of their nests so that by their meanes the inhabitants are abundantly provided of fewell for their fire what a mighty gaine groweth by their feathers and oyle the report thereof is so incredible that no man scarcely would beleeve it but he that had seene it Then as the shore draweth backe Seton sheweth it selfe which seemeth to have taken that name of the situation by the sea side and to have imparted the same unto a right noble house of the Setons branched out of an English family and from the daughter of King Robert Brus out of which the Marquesse Huntley Robert Earle of Wentoun Alexander Earle of Dunfirmling advanced to honors by K. James the sixth are propagated After this the river Eske dischargeth it selfe into this Frith when it hath runne by Borthwic which hath Barons surnamed according to that name and those deriving their pedegree out of Hungary by Newbottle that is The new building sometimes a faire monasterie now the Barony of Sir Mark Ker by Dalkeith a very pleasant habitation of the late Earles of Morton and Musselborrow hard under which in the yeere of our Lord 1547. when Sir Edward Seimor Duke of Somerset with an army royall had entred Scotland to claime and challenge the keeping of a covenant made concerning a marriage betweene Marie Queene of Scotland and Edward the sixth King of England there happened the heaviest day that ever fell to the adventurous youth of the most noble families in all Scotland who there lost their lives Here I must not over-passe in silence this Inscription which John Napier a learned man hath in his Commentaries upon the Apocalyps recorded to have beene here digged up and which the right learned Knight Sir Peter Young teacher and trainer of King James the sixth in his youth hath in this wise more truely copied forth APOLLINI GRANNO Q. LUSIUS SABINIA NUS PROC AUG V. S.S.L.V.M Who this Apollo Granus might bee and whence hee should have this name not one to my knowledge of our grave Senate of Antiquaries hitherto could ever tell But if I might be allowed from out of the lowest bench to speak what I think I would say that Apollo Granus amongst the Romans was the same that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Apollo with long haire amongst the Greekes for Isidor calleth the long haire of the Gothes Grannos But here I may seem to wander out of my way and therefore will returne to it Lower yet and neere unto the Scotish Forth is seated EDENBUROUGH which the Irish Scots call Dun Eaden that is the towne Eaden or Eden Hill and which no doubt is the very same that Ptolomee named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Winged Castle for Adain in the British tongue signifieth a wing and Edenborrow a word compounded out of the British and Saxon language is nothing else but The Burgh with wings From Wings therefore wee must fetch the reason of the name and fetched it may be if you thinke good either from the Companies of Horsemen which are called Wings or else from those Wings in Architecture which the great Master builders tearme Pâ—eromaâ—â— that is as Vetruvius sheweth two Wallâ— so rising up in heigth as that they resemble a shew of Wings which for that a certaine City of Cyprus wanted it was called in old time as wee read in the Geographers Aptera that is Without Wings But if any man beleeve that the name was derived from Ebrâ—â—k a Britaine or from Heth a Picâ— good leave have he for me I will not confront them with this my conjecture This Citie in regard of the high situation of the holsome are and plentifull soile and many Noble mens towred houses built round about it watered also with cleere springing fountaines reaching from East to West a mile out in length and carrying halfe as much in bredth is worthily counted the chiefe Citie of the whole Kingdome strongly walled adorned with houses as well publike as private well peopled and frequented by reason of the opportunity from the sea which the neighbour haven at Leth affordeth And as it is the seat of the Kings so is it the oracle also or closet of the Lawes and the very Palace of Justice For the high Courts of Parliament are here for the most part holden for the enacting or repealing of Lawes also the Session and the Court of the Kings Justice and of the Commissariat whereof I have spoken already are here settled and kept On the East side hard unto the Monastery of Saint Crosse or Holy ruide is the Kings palace which King David the first built over which within a Parke stored with game riseth an hill with two heads called of Arthur the Britaine Arthurs Chaire On the West side a most steepe rocke mounteth up aloft to a stately heigth every way save onely where it looketh toward the City on which is placed a Castle with many a towre in it so strong that it is counted impregnable which the Britans called Castle Myned Agneâ— the Scots The Maidens Castle and the Virgins Castle of certaine young maidens of the Picts royall blood who were kept there in old time and which may seeme in truth to have beene that Castrum Alatum or Castle with AVVING abovesaid How Edenborrow in the alternative fortune of warres was subject one while to the Scots and another while to the English who inhabited this East part of Scotland untill
Harald begat a sonne named Auloed Auloed begat another Auloed he had a sonne named Sitric King of Develin Sitric he begat Auloed whose daughter Racwella was mother to Gryffith Ap Cynan borne at Dublin whiles Tirlough reigned in Ireland But this is extravagant Develin at length when the English first arrived in Ireland yeelded unto their valour and by them was manfully defended when Ausculph Prince of the Dublinians and afterwards Gottred King of the Isles fiercely on every side assaulted it within a while after a Colony of Bristow-men was deduced hither unto whom King Henry the second granted this City happely at that time dispeopled for to inhabite with all the Franchises and free Customes which the men of Bristow have and that by those very words which I have alledged Since which time it hath flourished every day more and more and in many tumultuous times and hard streights given notable proofe of most faithfull loyaltie to the Crowne of England This is the roiall City and seat of Ireland a famous towne for Merchandize the chiefe Court of Justice in munition strong in buildings gorgeous in Citizens populous An old writer calleth it a City in regard of the people noble of the site most pleasant by reason of the sea and river meeting together rich and plentifull in fish for trafficke famous for the green plain delightfull and lovely beset with woods of mast-bearing trees environed about with Parkes harbouring Deere And William of Newborrow of it writeth thus Divelin a maritime citie is the mother citie of all Ireland having to it a haven passing well frequented for trafficke and entercourse of Merchants matchable with our London Seated it is in a right delectable and wholsome place for to the South yee have hils mounting up aloft Westward an open champion ground and on the East the sea at hand and in sight the river Liffy running downe at North-East affordeth a safe rode and harbour for ships By the river side are certain wharfes or Kaies as we terme them whereby the violent force of the water might be restrained For this verbe Caiare in old writers signified to Keep in to restrain and represse which that most learned Scaliger hath well noted A very strong wall of rough building stone reacheth hence along by the sides of it and the same toward the South fortified also with rampires which openeth at six gates from whence there runne forth suburbs of a great length Toward the East is Dammes gate and hard by standeth the Kings castle on high most strongly fensed with ditches towers and an Armory or Store-house built by Henry Loundres the Archbishop about the yeere 1220. In the East suburbs neere unto Saint Andrew the Apostles Church Henry the second King of England as Hoveden reporteth caused a roiall palace or rather a banqueting house to be erected for himselfe framed with wonderfull workmanship most artificially of smoothed watles after the manner of this country wherein himselfe with the Kings and Princes of Ireland kept a solemne feast upon Christmas day From hence is to bee seene just over against it a beautifull Colledge in which place there stood in old time the Monasterie of All-Hallowes consecrated unto the name of the holy and indivisible Trinity which for the exercise and polishing of good wits with good literature Queene Elizabeth of most happy memory endowed with the priviledges of an University and being furnished of late with a notable Library giveth no small hope that both religion and all the exquisite and liberall sciences will return eftsoones after their long exile to Ireland as to their ancient home unto which as unto a Mart of Arts and good learning strangers sometime used to flocke and repaire And verily in the reigne of Edward the Second Alexander Bicknor Archbishop of Divelin began to recall the profession of learning hither having obtained from the Pope the priviledges of an University and erected also publike Lectures but the troublesome times that presently ensued interrupted the laudable enterprise of that good man The North gate openeth at the bridge built with arched work of new hewen stone by King John and this joineth Oustmantowne to the City For here the Oustmans who came over as Giraldus writeth out of Norway and the parts of the Northren Islands planted themselves as the Annales beare record about the yeere of salvation 1050. In this suburbe stood in times past the goodly Church of Saint Maries of Oustmanby for so in a Charter of King John it is called an house also founded for preaching Friers called of them Black Friers unto which of late daies have beene translated the Judiciall Courts of the kingdome In the South quarter of the City stand two gates Ormonds gate and Newgate which is their common house of correction These lead unto the longest suburbe of all called Saint Thomas street and a magnificent Abbey of the same name called Thomas Court founded and endowed in times past with very ample revenues by King Henry the second for the expiation of the murder of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury Into the South openeth Pauls gate and that which taketh the name of Saint Nicolas making way into Saint Patrickes suburbe wherein standeth the Archbishops Palace knowne by the name of Saint Sepulchres and a most stately Church dedicated unto Saint Patricke right goodly to bee seene with faire embowed workes stone pavements an arched roofe over head of stone worke and a very high tower steeple What time this Church was first built it is to say truth uncertaine That Gregorie King of the Scots came unto it about the yeere 890. the Scottish Historie doth record The same afterward being much enlarged by John King of England was ordained first to be a Church of Prebends by Iohn Comyn Archbishop of Dublin in the yeere 1191. and Pope Celestine the third confirmed the same Then after him Henry Loundres his successour in the Archbishopricke augmented it with dignities of Personages for I may be bold to use here the founders words and framed it conformable to the immunities orders and approved customes of the Church of Salisbury But in our daies it maintaineth a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Arch-Deacons and two and twenty Prebendaries The only light and lamp that I may not conceale the most ample testimony which the Parliament of the kingdome giveth unto it of all godly and Ecclesiasticall discipline and order in Ireland There is another Cathedrall Church also standing in the very heart of the City which being consecrate unto the Holy Trinity is commonly called Christs Church touching the building thereof thus we read in the ancient records of the same Church Sitric King of Dublin the sonne of Ableb Earle of Dublin gave unto the blessed Trinity and to Donatus the first Bishop of Dublin a place to found a Church in unto the holy Trinity and not onely so but gold and silver also hee bestowed sufficiently for the
building of the Church and the whole close This was done in the yeere 1012. in which as Lancarvanensis avoucheth Sitric the sonne of Abloie for so he calleth him lived and flourished in great name The worke begun by Donatus Laurence Archbishop of Dublin Richard Strongbow Earle of Penbroch commonly called Earle of Strigulia whose tomb is here to be seen repaired by Sir Henry Sidney Lord Deputy Robert Fitz-Stephen and Reimund Fitz-Girald finished Hard at the South side of this Church there standeth a stately Towne-hall built of foure square stone and called the Tolestale where causes are tried before the Maior of the City and where the Citizens use to hold their Sessions and publike assemblies for it enjoyeth many immunities In times past this Citie had for the chiefe Magistrate a Provost but in the yeere of our redemption 1409. King Henry the fourth granted them licence to chuse every yeere a Maior and two Bailifs also that the Maior should have a gilt sword carried before him for ever But afterwards King Edward the sixth changed the Bailiffes into Sheriffes Neither wanteth any thing here which a man can wish for in a most flourishing City save only that an heape of sand which the ebbing and flowing of the sea casteth up into the mouth of Liffy doth so dam up and bar the haven that it is not able to bring up any great vessels but at high water Thus much of Dublin for the most part of which I acknowledge my selfe beholden unto the diligence and learning of Iames Usher Chancellor of S. Patricks Church whose variety of knowledge and judgement are far above his yeeres As touching Robert Vere Earle of Oxford whom King Richard the second a Prince too too lavish in giving honourable titles made Marquesse of Dublin and afterwards Duke of Ireland I have spoken already and reason I have none to repeat the same here Yet will I note thus much which I have since happened upon in the Records When as King Richard aforesaid had advanced that Robert Vere Earle of Oxford to bee Marquesse of Dublin and had given to him the Seigniory of Ireland during his life hee desirous to augment his honour by more ennoblishing him with honourable Armes granted also that as long as hee should live and hold the said Seigniory he should beare these Armes Azure 3. Crownes Or in a Bordur in his Standards Pennons Coat-armours and other things wherein Armes are to be shewed in all Marshall matters and elsewhere at his pleasure But this grant was soone after recalled and those Armes abolished Where the river Liffy lodgeth himselfe in the Ocean Houth standeth compassed in manner round about with the sea of which the Noblemen sirnamed Saint Laurence and dwelling there become named Barons of Houth men of rare felicity for that in so long a descent of their line for they are able to derive their pedegree from the time of King Henry the second there hath of them by report none beene attainted of high treason none left ward in his minority And within a little of this place is Malchide or Molachid ennobled by the Lords thereof the Talbots English by their first originall More within the country Northward there adjoineth hard to the county of Dublin Fingall that is if you interpret it out of the Irish language a nation of forreiners for they use to nominate the English Gall as one would say strangers and Saissones as it were Saxons a little country but very good and passing well husbanded even the garner and barn of this kingdome so great store of corne it yeeldeth every yeere And here the soile striveth after a sort with the painfull labour of the husbandman which in other places throughout this Iland lying neglected without tillage and manuring seemeth to make a very grievous complaint of the inhabitants sloth and lazinesse There are planted every where throughout this county right worshipfull families nobly descended of English blood and namely besides those which I have already mentioned the Plonkets Barnwels Russels Talbots Dillons Nettervils Holywoods Lutterels Burnels Fitz Williams Gouldings Usshers Cadleys Finglases Sarfelds Blackneys Cruceys Baths c. Thus farre forth summarily of Leinster which in old time reached no farther Now I wot not whether it bee worth the laughing at or the relating that Thomas Stukely when hee had in England and Ireland both made shipwracke of his good name credit and fortunes having wound himselfe out of the danger of the lawes curried such favour with Pope Gregory the thirteenth what with making many faire promises and what with bragging of great matters that hee received at his hands these titles Marquesse of Leinster Earle of Weisford and Caterlogh Vicount Murrough and Baron of Rosse and Ydron With which titles hee being puffed up in pride whiles he thought to conquer Ireland went aside into Africk and there with the three Kings that were slaine in one battell made up the enterlude of his life with an honest close and catastrophe MIDIA OR MEDIAMETH THe rest of the Countrey of the Eblani was in ancient time a kingdome and the fifth part of Ireland which in their owne native language they call Miih the English Meth Giraldus nameth it in Latin Midia and Media perhaps because it is in the very middle of the Iland For they say that Killair a castle in these parts which seemeth to be in Ptolomee LABERUS is as it were the Navill of Ireland And the very name implieth no lesse For Lair in the Irish tongue signifieth The Middle This Meth lieth stretched out from the Irish sea as farre as to the river Shanon For the soile thereof as saith Bartholomaeus Anglicus Fertile it is in corne pasture ground and cattell plentifull in fish flesh and other victualls of white meat as butter cheese and milke watered also with rivers The situation is delectable to the eye and an wholsome aire In regard of woods and marishes in the skirts and borders it hath a very hard accesse and entry unto it And therefore considering the multitude of people the strength of castles and townes is iâ— commonly called for the peace thereof the CHAMBER of IRELAND Within the memorie of our fathers because the country was too large for to be governed by one Sheriffe and to the end that justice might with more facility be ministred it was divided by authority of Parliament in the 38. yeere of King Henry the eighth into two parts namely the county of East Meth and the county of West-Meth THE COUNTY OF EAST-METH THe County of EAST-METH is environed round about with the county of Kildar South with the county of Dublin and the sea East with the territorie of Louth North and with the county of West Meth on the West The whole is divided into 18. Baronies Dueleke Scrine Slane Margallen Navan Kenles halfe the Barony of Fower neer to Kenles Killalou Demore Cloue Moylagh Loghern Oldcastle Luyn Moyfeuraragh Deese Rath-touth and
albeit it is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Iland The Irish talke much that it was so called of Queen Armacha but in mine opinion it is the very same that Bede nameth Dearmach and out of the Scottish or Irish language interpreteth it The field of Okes. But it was named Drumsailich before that Saint Patricke had built there a proper faire City for site forme quantity and compasse modelled out as hee saith by the appointment and direction of Angels That Patricke I say who being a Britan borne and Saint Martins sisters sonne named at his Baptisme Sucat was sold into Ireland where he became Heardman to King Miluc afterwards was named by Saint German whose disciple hee was Magonius as a Nurse-Father out of a British word and by Pope Caelestine Patricius as a Father of the Citizens and by him sent over to catechize Ireland in the Christian faith which notwithstanding some had received there before as wee may gather out of an old Synodall wherein is urged the testimony of Patricke himselfe against that tonsure or shaving of Priests which had beene used before his time in Ireland whereby they were shaven onely on the fore part of the head and not on the Crowne Which manner of shaving he seemeth by way of contempt to father upon a certaine Swineherd of King Lagerius the sonne of Nell and the writers of that age cried out that it was Simon Magus his shaving and not S. Peters In this place about the yeere of our salvation 610. Columbane built a most famous Monastery out of which very many Monasteries afterwards were propagated by his disciples both in Britain and in Ireland Of this Armach S. Bernard thus writeth In honour of S. Patrick the Apostle of Ireland who here by his life time ruled and after death rested it is the Archiepiscopall seat and Metropolitan City of all Ireland and of so venerable estimation in old time that not only Bishops and Priests but Kings also and Princes in generall were subject to the Metropolitane thereof in all obedience and he alone governed them all But through the divellish ambition of some mighty Potentates there was taken up a very bad custome that this holy See should be obtained and held in hereditary succession neither suffered they any to be Bishops but such as were of their owne Clan Tribe and Family Neither prevailed this execrable succession a little but continued this wicked manner for the space well neere of fifteen generations When in processe of time the Ecclesiasticall discipline in this Iland was growne loose so as in townes and cities there were translations and plurality of Bishops according to the will and pleasure of the Metropolitane for reformation of this abuse Iohn Papyrio a Cardinall was sent hither from Pope Eugenius the fourth as a namelesse writer then living wrote in these words In the yeere of our Lord 1142. Iohn Papyrio a Cardinall sent from Eugenius the fourth Bishop of Rome together with Christian Bishop of Lismore Legate of all Ireland came into Ireland The same Christian held a solemne Counsell in Mell at which were present all the Bishops Abbats Kings Dukes and Elders of Ireland By whose consent there were established foure Archbishopricks namely of Armach of Dublin of Cassile and Toam Wherein sate and ruled at the same time Gelasius Gregorius Donatus and Edanus and so the Cardinall bestowing his blessing upon the Clergie returned to Rome For before that time the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishops of Canterbury in regard of the Primacy which they had in Ireland This did the Citizens of Dublin acknowledge when they sent Gregory elect Bishop of Dublin unto Ralph Archbishop of Canterbury for to be consecrated by these words Antecessorum vestrorum Magisterio c. that is Unto the Magistracy of your Predecessors we willingly submitted our Prelats from which we remember that our Prelats have received their dignity Ecclesiasticall c. which appeareth for certain out of letters also bearing date of greater antiquity namely of Murchertach King of Ireland written unto Anselm Archbishop of Canterbury for the ordaining and enstalling of the Bishops of Dublin and of Waterford likewise of King Gothrich unto Lanfrank his predecessor in the behalfe of one Patrick a Bishop of Lanfrank also unto Therdeluac a King of Ireland unto whom he complaineth That the Irishmen forsake and leave at their pleasure their wedded wives without any canonicall cause and match with any others even such as be neere of kinne either to themselves or the said forsaken wives and if another man with like wickednesse hath cast off any wife her also rashly and hand over head they joine with by law of marriage or fornication rather an abuse worthy to be punished With which vices if this nation had not bin corrupted even unto these daies of ours both the right of lineall succession among them had been more certain and as well the gentry as the communalty had not embrued themselves so wickedly with the effusion of so much blood of their owne kinred about their inheritances and legitimation neither had they become so infamous in these respects among forraine nations But these matters are exorbitant of themselves and from my purpose Long had not that Archiepiscopall dignity and Primacy beene established when Vivian the Popes Legate confirmed the same againe so that their opinion may seeme to be worthy of discredit and refutation who affirme that the Archbishop of Armach had in regard of antiquity the priority and superiour place of the Archbishop of Canterbury in the Generall or Oecumenicall Councells whereas by the first institution hee is by many ages the latter Neither according to the antiquitie of places are the seats in Councels appointed But all Prelates of what degree soever they be sit among their Colleagues according to their owne ordination enstalling and promotion What time as that Vivian was Legate in Ireland Sir Iohn Curcy subdued Armach and made it subject to the English and yet did he no harme then but is reported to have beene very good and bountifull unto the Churchmen that served God there and he re-edified their Church which in our memory was fired and foulely defaced by the rebell Shan O Neale and the city withall so that they lost all the ancient beauty and glory and nothing remaineth at this day but very few small watled cottages with the ruinous walls of the Monastery Priory and Primates palace Among the Archbishops of this place there goes the greatest fame and name of S. Malachy the first that prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland a man in his time learned and devout and who tooke no lesse of the native barbarousnesse of that country than sea fishes saltnesse of the seas as saith S. Bernard who wrote his life at large also Richard Fitz-Ralfe commonly called Armachanus is of famous memory who turned the edge of his stile about the yeere 1355. against
broader having a pretty towne in it with a Church and a castle where sometimes had beene that Episcopall See which Aidan the Scot called thither to preach the Christian faith unto the people of Northumberland instituted as being much delighted with the solitary situation as a most fit place of retire In this small Iland there sat eleven Bishops But afterwards when the Danes rifled and robbed all the Sea-coasts the Episcopall See was translated to Durham Under the towne there is a good commodious haven defended with a Block-house situate upon an hill toward the South-East This for the habitation therein of holy Monkes is called in English Holy Iland Concerning which Alcuin in an Epistle unto Egelred King of Northumberland writeth thus A place more venerable than all the places in Britaine is left to the spoile of Pagans and Miscreants and where after the departure of S. Paulinus from York Christian religion in our nation first began there it hath felt the first beginning of misery and calamity Seven miles from hence South-Eastward Farn Isle sheweth it selfe distant almost two miles from Banborrow castle enclosed within the most deep Ocean and encircled about with craggy cliffs and this hath also in the middle well neere a Fort belonging unto it even in that place as the report goeth where Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarn that tutelar St. and Patron of the Northren Englishmen to the end he might wholly give himselfe to the service of God built as Bede saith in his life a city fitting his government and erected houses in this city sorting well therto For the whole building stood almost round in compasse reaching from wall to wall the space of foure or five perches The wall it selfe on the coast side was more than a mans height for on the inside with hewing downe into a mighty rocke he had made it far higher sufficient to with-hold and keep in the wanton lasciviousnesse either of eyes or thoughts and to elevate the whole intention of the mind up to heavenly desires in such sort as that the devout inhabitants thereof could out of his mansion place behold nothing but the heaven Which wall verily he made not of cut squared stone or of bricke nor laid the same with strong morter but raised altogether of coble and unpolished rough stones and turfe betweene which with digging he had taken out of the midst of the place Of which stones verily some were of that huge bignesse as foure men were uneth able to lift one of them Within this mansion hee had two houses a Chappell and a dwelling roome for common uses The walls whereof he brought up of very naturall earth by digging much of it within and without round about or else by paring it up And roofes over them of timber without all forme and straw thereupon Moreover at the haven of this Iland there stood a greater house wherein the brethren that came to visit him might be entertained and lodged and not far from it a fountain meet for their uses Upon this there adjoine other smaller Ilands toward the North as Widopens Staple Iland which lieth two miles off Bronsman and two lesser than these which they call the Wambes After these the Iland commonly called Coquet lieth right before the mouth of the river Coquet wherein is a plentifull veine of Sea-coale Neither are there any more Ilands to be seen in this coast but over against it be the Saxonum Insulae that is The Saxons Ilands now called Heilich lant that is The Holy-Ilands and they lie as it were in a continued range along East and West Frislands Among which that was best knowne unto the Roman Captaines which Strabo called BIRCHANIS Pliny BIRCHANA and the Romans FABARIA of the resemblance of a certain Graine or Pulse comming up there of the owne accord which that I may restore it againe to the due place although it bee nothing pertinent to my purpose the very name it selfe witnesseth to bee that Borkun which lieth over against the mouth of Ems. Somewhat lower upon the shore of Holland where in ancient time was the mouth of Rhene the foundations of a most ancient Store-house Magazin or Armory are covered over with the waves which being very seldome discovered and laide bare at a low ebbe of the Ocean sheweth both an admirable spectacle of reverend antiquitie and also a most noble modell and forme of building which Abraham Ortelius the repairer of ancient Geography and my entire and inward friend hath preserved out of the maine Ocean by his exact description thereof I have mentioned this the more willingly because the Hollanders call it in their language Huis te Britten that is the British house so that it belongeth at least wise in name to Britain and therfore not impertinent to my purpose For as it is evident and confessed of all that the Emperour C. Caligula when he entended the conquest of Britaine in that ridiculous voiage of his built it for a watch-tower so an ancient Inscription there digged up doth testifie that the Emperor Septimius Severus after it was fallen to decay rebuilt it But whence it was named Britten let him tell that best can ghesse Probable it is that it tooke this name from the Britans for that Bretta the natall place of Philip Melanchthon tooke name of the Britans he himselfe was fully perswaded and that Mounts in Heinault were of the Britans termed Breten we have read elsewhere But yet that I may speake as Plinie doth seeing he marvelleth why the Herbe that is peculiar unto Holland as growing no where else is called Britannica unlesse perhaps those that bordered upon the Ocean dedicated it unto Britain so neere unto it so for my part I wonder as much why this tower should be termed Britannica or Breten unlesse the Hollanders consecrated it to our Britaine lying opposite unto it Pliny calleth a place in Picardy Portum Morinorum Britannicum that is The British haven or port of the Morines either for that they took ship there to passe over into Britain or because it kenned Britaine over against it on the other side of the sea Why then should not this tower by the same reason be called Britannica or Breten for that the Britans often arrived here and that from hence out of Germany there was a common passage into Britain it is most certain considering that Zosimus hath given the just measure of the sea betwixt Britaine and this mouth of Rheine to be 900. Stadia over as though it had beene an usuall passage and written beside that corne was wont to be brought by ships out of Britaine to this place and from thence with barges and boats haled up the Rhene against the streame to serve the Roman garrisons seeing that Iulian the Emperour built garrisons as Marcellinus saith wherein might be inned and kept the corne that the Britans usually transported thither At which time this said Armory may seeme to
Hampton or Wulver Hampton 581 e Wulpet 463 f Wyre forest 573 e X X. No British letter 97 Y YAle 676 e Yanesbury castle 245 e Yardley Hasting 509 e Yare 721 a. a river 468 d Yarmouth 476 f Yeomen 177 Yeverin 815 d Y-kil what it signifieth 714 a Yorkes wold 709 b Yorke City 701 Yorkeshire ibid. Yorke Earles and Dukes 724 e Yron Mynes and workes 306 d Ystwith 658 a Yvo Ellas 675 c Yvor Bach 642 e Z ZOuches 201 f. 202 c. whence descended 519 a Zouches of Haringworth and Ashby de la Zouch 224 e Zouch Mortimer 514 a Zouch killed in Westminster hall 519 b Zythum 20 THE NAMES OF SEVERALL Nations Cities and great Townes Rivers Promontories or Capes c. of Britaine in old time such as Caesar Tacitus Ptolemaeus Antoninus Notitia Provinciarum and other Authours have made mention of together with the later and moderne names  A  ABallaba Appleby in Westmorland 761 Abone Avington or Aventon in Glocestershire 358 Abus aestuarium Humber in Yorkshire 710 Aesica Netherby upon Eske in Cumberland 781 Ad Ansam Neere Coggeshall in Essex 449 Ad Pontem Paunton in Lincolnshire 537 Adurni Portus Ederington 313 Agelocum Little borrough upon Trent 549 Alone Whitley in Northumberland 794 Alannius flu Avon in Wiltshire 243 Alaunus flu Alne in Northumberland 813 Amboglanna Ambleside haply 760 Ancalites The Hundred of Henley 389 Amnitum vel Samnitum Insulae Isles upon the West coasts of Britaine in France 221. p. 2 Andates Lucus   Anderida Newenden in Kent 351 Angli sive Anglo-Saxones Englishmen or English-Saxons 127 Antona sive Aufona Aufon 507.508 Antivestaeum The Cape of Cornwall 187 Aquae Solis Bath in Somersetshire 233 Arbeia Ierby 769 Ariconium Kenchester neere Hereford 618 Atacoti or Attacotti  127 Atrebatii or Attrebatii Barkshire 278 Augusta See Londinum  Axelodunum Hexham in Northumberland 807  B  BAdiza Bath 233 Bannavenna or Bannaventa Weedon on the street 508 Belerium The same that Antivestaeum  Belgae Sommersetshire Wilshire and Hantshire 219 Bellisama flu Rhibell in Lancashire 749 Bennones High-Crosse 518 Bibroci The Hundred of Bray in Barkshire 289 Binovium Binchester 738 Blatum Bulgium Bulnesse in Cumberland 775 Blestium Old towne in Herefordshire 787.617 Bonium Banchor in Flitshire 602.681 Bononia Bollonge in France 349 Borcovicus Borwick in Northumberland 809 Brannodunum Brancerster in Norfolke 488 Bremenium Brampton in Northumberland 803 Brementuracum Brampton in Cumberland 783 Brementonacum Overborrow in Lancashire 753 Brigantes Yorkshire Lancashire B. of Durham Westmorland Cumberland 685 Brovonacum Brougham 762 Bullaeum Buelth in Brecknocshire 627 Burrium Uske in Monmouthshire 636  C  CAesarromagus Neere Brentwood in Essex fortè 442 Calcaria Tadcaster in Yorkeshire 696 Callena See Gallena  Camboritum Cambridge 486 Camalodunum Maldon 446 Camundolunum See Cambodunum  Cambodunum Ruins neere Aldmondbury in Yorkshire 692 Calagum See Galacum  Canonium Chensford in Essex 445 Cantum Kent 324 Cantium Promontorium The foreland of Kent 342 Cangi  231 Castra Exploratorum Burgh upon Sands 773 Castra Constantia Constance in Normandy 224 Cassii The hundred of Caishow in Hertfordshire 395 Cassiterides The Iles of Sylly 227 Caturactonium Cataricke in Yorkeshire 730 Cartieuchlani Buckingham Bedford and Hertfordshires 391 Causennae See Gausennae  Cenio flu The river by Tregeny in Cornwall 190 Ceni-magni See Iceni  Cilurnum Collerford in Northumberland 806 Clausentum South hanton 261 Clevum Glocester 360 Coccium Riblechester in Lancashire 752 Colonia Colchester in Essex 450 Candate Congleton in Cheshire 608 Concangii Baronie of Kendale 759 Condercum Chester upon the streete in the Bishopricke of Durham 742 Combretonium Brettenham in Suffolke 463 Conovius flu The river Conway in Wales 669 Conovium urbs Caer hean upon Conway in Caernarvonshire ibid. Convennos insula Convey at the Tamis mouth 441 Congavata A place upon Caudbecke in Cumberland 778 Corinium Circester or Cirencester in Glocestershire 366 Coritani Northamptonshire Leicestershire Rutlandshire Lincolnshire Nottinghamshire Darbyshire 504 Cornavii Warwickshire Worcestershire Staffordshire Shropshire and Cheshire 560 Corstopitum Morpit in Northumberland fortè 808 Cossini  833 Croco-calana Ancaster in Lincolnshire 537 Cunetio Marlborow or Kenet in Wiltshire 255 Curia Corebridge in Northumberland 808  D  DAnmonii Cornwall and Denshire 183 Danmoniorum Promontorium The Lizard in Cornwall 189 Danum Dancaster in Yorkshire 690 Delgovitia Godmundham in Yorkshire 711 Derventio Auldby upon Derwent in Yorkshire 709 Deva flu d ee in Cheshire  Devana sive Deva urbs Chester or West-chester 604 Dictum Diganwey 669 Dimetae Westwales Caermardinshire Penbrochshire and Cardiganshire 647 Dobuni sive Boduni Glocestershire and Oxfordshire 354 Dorobernia See Dorovernum  Dubris Dover 344 Dunum sinus The Creeke at Dunesby neere whitby in Yorkshire 718 Ducornovia See Corinium  Durotriges Dorsetshire 209 Dur-co-brivae Redborn 413 Durnium See Durnovaria  Durobrivae Caster neere Wandlesworth in Huntingdonshire 501 Durnovaria Dorcester 212 Durobrovae Rochester 332 Durolenum Leneham in Kent 331 Durolitum Old foord upon Lee in Essex 439 Durosiponte Gormonchester 498 Durovernum Canterbury 336  E  EBoracum Yorke 701 Epiacum Papcastle in Cumberland 768 Etoletum The Wall in Staffordshire 587 Extensio Promont Easton Nesse in Suffolke 467  F  Fretum Britannicum The streight of Callis 345  G  GAbranto vicorum portuosus sinus Sureby in Yorkshire 114 Gabrocentum Gateshead in the Bishoprick of Durham 743.818 Gallatum Whealp-Castle in Westmorland 762 Gallana Walle-wic 802 Gallena Wallingford 761 Ganganorum Promont Lheyn in Caernarvonshire 668 Garianonum Yarmouth 477 Garienis flu Y are river in Norfolk 476 Gausennnae Brig-Casterton upon Wash 534 Genunia Northwales 660 Glannoventa Upon Wentsbeck in Northumberland 812 Glessariae  220 Glevum Glocester 366 Gobannium Abergevenny 635 Gessoriacum See Bononia   H  HErculis Promont Herty point in Denshire 207 Hunnum Sevenshale in Northumberland 801  I  JAmesa See Tamesis  Iceni Suffolke Norfolke Cambridgshire and Huntingdonshire 456 Icianos Icborrow in Norfolke 482 Idumanus flu Blackewater river in Essex 448 Isannavaria See Banavenna for they seeme to be the same  Isca flu Ex river in Denshire 203 Isca Danmoniorum Excester ibid. Isca Legio Augusta Caer Lheon in Monmouthshire 636 Iscalis Ivelcester 221 Isurium Aldburge in Yorkshire 701 Jugantes whom Tacitus mentioneth I wote not who they be unlesse they were the Cantiani that is Kentishmen whom the Welsh Britans were wont in their language to call Y-Gant And yet it may seeme as probable to read Brigantes for Jugantes 688 Itium Galliae Vitsan 348 Ituna flu Eden river in Cumberland 760.776  L  LActodurum sive Lactorodum Stony-Stratford 397 Lagecium vel Legeolium Castleford neere Pontfreit 695 Legio 11. Augusta See Isca  Legio 11. Victrix See Eboracum  Legio xx Victrix See Deva  Lavatres Bowes upon Stanemore 731 Leucarum Loghor in Southwales 646 Littus Saxonicum East and South coast 325 Lemanis Limehill or lime in Kent 349 Lindum Lincolne
were in amity and league founded every one in his owne Kingdome Cities named Caesareae in honour of Augustus What if I should say that CAESAROMAGUS did stand neere unto Brentwood would not a learned Reader laugh at me as one Soothsayer doth when he spieth another Certes no ground I have nor reason to strengthen this my conjecture from the distance thereof seeing the numbers of the miles in Antonine be most corruptly put downe which neverthelesse agree well enough with the distance from COLONIA and CANONIUM Neither can I helpe my selfe with any proofe by the situation of it upon the Roman high-way which in this enclosed country is no where to be seene Neither verily there remaineth heere so much as a shadow or any twinkling shew of the name CAESAROMAGUS unlesse it be and that is but very sclender in the name of an Hundred which of old time was called Ceasford and now Cheasford Hundred Surely as in some ancient Cities the names are a little altered and in others cleane changed so there be againe wherein one syllable or twaine at most bee remaining thus CAESARAUGUSTA in Spaine is now altered to be Saragosa CAESAROMAGUS in France hath lost the name cleane and is called Beavois and CAESAREA in Normandy now Cherburg hath but one syllable left of it But what meane I thus to trifle and to dwell in this point If in this quarter hereby there bee not CAESAROMAGUS let others seeke after it for me It passeth my wit I assure you to finde it out although I have diligently laid for to meet with it with net and toile both of eares and eies Beneath Brentwood I saw South-Okindon where dwelt the Bruins a Family as famous as any one in this Tract out of the two heires female whereof being many times married to sundry husbands Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke the Tirels Berners Harlestones Heveninghams and others descended And of that house there be males yet remaining in South-hampton-shire Also Thorndon where Sir John Petre Knight raised a goodly faire house who now was by our Soveraigne King James created Baron Petre of Writtle That Thorndon was in times past the dwelling place of a worshipfull Family of Fitzlewis the last of which name if we may beleeve the common report by occasion that the house happened to be set on fire in the time of his wedding feast was pittiously himselfe therein burnt to death Burghsted and more short Bursted that is the place of a Burgh which name our forefathers used to give unto many places that were of greater antiquity This I once supposed to have been CAESAROMAGUS and what ever it was in old time it is at this day but a good country Towne neere unto Byliricay a Mercat towne of very good resort Likewise Ashdowne sometimes Assandun that is as Marian interpreteth it the Mount of Asses where long since a bloudy battaile was fought in which King Edmund sirnamed Ironside had at the beginning a good hand of the Danes and put them to rout but streight waies the fortune of the field turning about he was so defeited that he lost a great number of the English Nobility In memoriall of which battaile we reade that King Canutus the Dane built a Church afterward in that place what time as upon remorse and repentance for the bloud that he had shed hee erected Chappels in what part soever he had fought any field and shed Christian bloud Not farre from these is Ralegh a prety proper towne and it seemeth to be Raganeia in Domesday booke wherein is mention made of a Castle that Suenus heere built in which also we read thus There is one Parke and sixe Arpennes of Vineyard and it yeeldeth twenty Modij of wine if it take well Which I note the rather both for the French word Arpenn and also for the wine made in this Isle This Suenus was a man of great name and of noble birth the sonne of Robert sonne of Wiwarc but father to Robert of Essex whose son was that Sir Robert de Essex who in right of inheritance was the Kings Standard bearer and who for that in a light skirmish against the Welsh hee had not onely cast off his courage but also cast away his Standard being chalenged for treason vanquished in duell or combat and thereof thrust into a Cloystre forfeited a goodly patrimony and livelod which was confiscate to King Henry the Second and helped to fill his Coffers As for the Barony it lay dead from that time a great while in the Kings hands untill Sir Hubert de Burgh obtained it of King John Above this the shores retiring backe by little and little admit two creekes of the Ocean entring within them the one the neighbour inhabitants call Crouch the other Blackwater which in old time was named Pant. In the said Crouch by reason of the waters division there lie scattered foure Islands carrying a pleasant greene hew but by occasion of inundations growne to be morish and fenny among which these two bee of greatest name Wallot and Foulenesse that is The Promontory of Fowles which hath a Church also in it and when the sea is at the lowest ebbe a man may ride over to it Betweene these Creekes lieth Dengy Hundred in ancient times Dauncing passing plentifull in grasse and rich in Cattaile but Sheepe especially where all their doing is in making of Cheese and there shall ye have men take the womens office in hand and milke Ewes whence those huge thicke Cheeses are made that are vented and sould not onely into all parts of England but into forraigne nations also for the rusticall people labourers and handicraftes men to fill their bellies and feed upon The chiefe Towne heereof at this day is Dengy so called as the Inhabitants are perswaded of the Danes who gave name unto the whole Hundred Neere unto which is Tillingham given by Ethelbert the first Christian King of the English-Saxons unto the Church of Saint Paul in London and higher up to the North shore flourished sometimes a City of ancient Record which our forefathers called Ithancestre For Ralph Niger writeth thus out of S. Bede Bishop Chad baptized the East-Saxons neere to Maldon in the City of Ithancestre that stood upon the banke of the River Pant which runneth hard by Maldon in Dengy Province but now is that City drowned in the River Pant. To point out the place precisely I am not able but I nothing doubt that the River called Froshwell at this day was heeretofore named Pant seeing that one of the Springs thereof is called Pantswell and the Monkes of Coggeshall so termed it Doubtlesse this Ithancester was situate upon the utmost Promontory of this Dengy Hundred where in these daies standeth Saint Peters upon the wall For along this shore much a doe have the inhabitants to defend their grounds with forced bankes or walls against the violence of the Ocean ready to inrush upon them And I my selfe am partly of this
will in short space be covered over with a stony barke and turne into stone as it hath beene often observed In the Territory there by Liquirice groweth in great abundance and a yellower and softer kinde of marle is there found passing good to make the ground fertile The Keeper or chiefe Ranger of the Forest adjoyning was in times past one Gamell whose posterity of their habitation at Screven assumed the name of Screven and from them descended the Slingsbey who received this Forestership of king Edward the First and to this day live here in great and good regard Nid having passed by these places not farre from Allerton the seat of a very ancient and famous family of the Malliveries who in old Deeds and Records are called Mali Leporarij goeth on a little way and then meeting Ouse augmenteth the streame of Ouse by his confluence As for Vre he also springing out of these Westerne hilles but on the other side of the Country in North-Ricding when by this name he hath watered the North part of the Shire a little before he commeth to Rippon serveth for the limite dividing the North and West Ridings one from another This Rippon in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 being placed betweene Vre and Skell a rill is beholden to religious Houses for all the dignity it had and especially to a Monastery built in the primitive Church of the English-Saxons by Wilfride Archbishop of Yorke and that with such arched and embowed Vaults with such floorings and stories of stone-worke with such turnings and windings in and out of Galleries so saith William of Malmesbury that it was wonderfull Which the Danes afterward being so violent and outrageous that they spared neither God nor man raced together with the Towne Yet flourished it againe repaired by meanes of Odo Archbishop of Canterbury who being a very great master of ceremoniall mysteries translated from hence to Canterbury the Reliques of Wilfride But since the Normans arrivall it prospered most when the Castles as one saith of Monkes beganne to bee built in greater number For then both the Towne grew famous partly under the chiefe Magistrate whom they call by an old Saxon word Wakeman as one would say Watchman and partly by their industry in clothing which at this day is much diminished and the Monastery likewise under the tuition and protection of the Archbishops of Yorke beganne marveilously to reflourish Besides a very faire Church was there also built at the charitable charges of the Noblemen and Gentry dwelling thereabout and of their owne Treasurer which with three high Spire-steeples doth welcome those that come to the towne and did as it were emulate in workemanship the wealthy Abbay of Fountaines built within the sight of it by Thurstin Archbishop of Yorke On the one side of this Church wee saw a little College of â—inging men which Henry Bath Archbishop of Yorke erected on the other side a very great mount of earth called Hilshow cast up as they report by the Danes Within the Church Saint Wilfrides Needle was in our Grandfathers remembrance very famous A narrow hole this was in the Crowdes or close vaulted roome under the ground whereby womens honesty was tried For such as were chast did easily passe through but as many as had plaied false were miraculously I know not how held fast and could not creepe through The Abbay Fountaines aforesaid most pleasantly seated in a right plentifull Country and having Lead mines neere it had the originall from twelve precise Monkes of Yorke who fervently zealous to serve God in a more strict kinde of life forsooke their cloistures and addicted themselves to the ordinances of Saint Bernard For whom after they had reaped many Harvests of troubles Thurstine Archbishop of Yorke built this Abbay which was acknowledged an immediate daughter of Clarevalle and in a few yeeres became a mother to many others as Kirkstall Salley Meaux c. I have made more willingly mention of these because Saint Bernard in his Epistles so highly approved their life and discipline Not farre beneath there standeth by Vre a little Towne called Burrow bridge of the bridge that is made over the River which now is built very high and faire of stone worke but in King Edward the Second his time it seemeth to have beene of wood For wee reade that when the Nobles of England disquieted the King and troubled the State Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford in his going over it was at a chinke thereof thrust through the body about his groine by a souldier lying close under the Bridge Neere unto this Bridge Westward we saw in three divers little fields foure huge stones of Pyramidall forme but very rudely wrought set as it were in a streight and direct line The two Pyramides in the middest whereof the one was lately pulled downe by some that hoped though in vaine to finde treasure did almost touch one another the uttermore stand not farre off yet almost in equall distance from these on both sides Of these I have nothing else to say but that I am of opinion with some that they were Monuments of victory erected by the Romanes hard by the High Street that went this way For I willingly overpasse the fables of the common people who call them the Devils Bolts which they shot at ancient Cities and therewith overthrew them Yet will not I passe over this that very many and those learned men thinke they are not made of naturall stone indeed but compounded of pure sand lime vitriol whereof also they say there be certaine small graines within and some unctuous matter Of such a kinde there were in Rome cisternes so firmely compact of very strong lime and sand as Plinie writeth that they seemed to be naturall stones A little Eastward from this Bridge IS-URIUM BRIGANTUM an ancient City so called of the River Vre running by it flourished in ancient times but was rased to the very ground many ages past Neverthelesse the Village risen up neere the place giveth testimony of the Antiquity thereof for it is called Ealdburgh and Aldborrow But in that very plot of ground where the said City stood are now arable grounds and pastures so that scarce any footing thereof doth appeare Surely the very credite of Writers should have had much adoe to make us beleeve that this had beene IS-URIUM but that URE the Rivers name the Romane Coine daily digged up and the distance according to Antonines account betwixt this and Yorke warranted it For by that Vre which the Saxons afterward named Ouse because it hath entertained Ousburne a little River is gone sixteene Italian miles from hence hee runneth through the City EBORACUM or EBURACUM which Ptolomee in the second booke of his Great Construction calleth BRIGANTIUM if the said booke bee not corrupted because it was the chiefe City of the Brigantes Ninnius calleth it Caer Ebrauc the Britans Caer Effroc the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we at this day Yorke The British History reporteth that it tooke name of King Ebraâ—c the Founder yet give mee leave to deeme conjecturally without the prejudice to others that the name EB-URACUM is derived from nothing else but from the River Vre so that it soundeth as much as by Vre or along the side of Vre for even so the EBUROVICES in France were seated by the River Eure neere unto Eureux in Normandy Semblably the EB-URONES in the Netherlands neere unto the river Oure in the Dioecese of Lhuick and EB-LANA in Ireland standeth hard by the river Lefny This is the second City of England the fairest in all this Country and a singular safeguard and ornament both to all the North parts A pleasant place large and stately well fortified beautifully adorned as well with private as pulique buildings rich populous and to the greater dignity thereto it hath an Archiepiscopall See Ure which now is called Ouse flowing with a gentle streame from the North part Southward cutteth it as I said in twaine and divideth it as it were into two Cities which are conjoyned with a stone Bridge having the mightiest Arch one of them that ever I saw The West part nothing so populous is compassed in with a very faire Wall and the River together fouresquarewise and giveth entrance to those that come thither at one onely Gate named Mikel Barre as one would say The great Gate From which a long street and a broade reacheth to the very Bridge and the same streete beset with proper houses having gardens and orchards planted on the backeside on either hand and behinde them fields even hard to the Walles for exercise and disports In the South angle whereof which they and the River make betweene them I saw a Mount raised as it seemeth for some Castle to be built upon it called The old Bale which William Melton Archbishop as wee reade in the Archbishops lives strongly enclosed first with thicke planckes eighteene foote long afterward with a stone wall yet there is nothing of all that now to be seene The East side wherein the houses stand very thicke and the streetes be narrower in forme resembleth as it were a lentill and is fortified also with very strong walles and on the South-East defended with the deepe chanell of Fosse a muddy River which entring into the heart of the City by a blinde way hath a Bridge over it with houses standing upon it so close ranged one by another that any man would judge it to bee not a Bridge but a continued streete and so a little lower runneth into Ouse where at their confluence and meeting together right over against the Mount that I spake of King William the Conquerour in a very convenient place raised a most strong Castle to awe the Citizens Upon which time hath now a great while without impeachment wrought his will ever since that Englishmen fell to neglect strong Holds as receptacles for those whose hearts would not serve to fight in open field On this side also toward the North-East standeth the Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Peter an excellent faire Fabrique and a stately neere unto which without the Walles of the City but yet enclosed within walles and by the River flourished a renowned Abbay called Saint Maries which Alan the Third Earle of Little Britaine in Armorica and of Richmund built and endowed with rich livings but now it is converted into the Princes house and is commonly called The Manour Whence I should fetch the originall of Yorke but from the Romanes I cannot tell seeing the Britans before the Romanes comming had no other Townes than woods fensed with trenches and rampire as Caesar and Strabo unreprovable Authors doe testifie To say nothing therefore of King Ebrauk whom some men both curious and credulous as it should seeme have imagined out of the name of Eboracum for so is Yorke in Latine termed to have beene the Founder thereof most certaine it is that the Sixth Legion Victrix which Hadrian there Emperour brought out of Germany over into Britaine was placed heere in Garison And that it was a Colony of the Romanes it appeareth both by the authority of Ptolomee and Antonine and also by an ancient Inscription which I saw in a certaine Aldermans house there in these words M. VEREC DIOGENES IIIII I VIR COL EBOR. IDEMQ MORT CIVES BITURIX HAEC SIBI VIVUS FECIT As also by a peece of money coined by the Emperour Severius in the reverse whereof we reade COL EBORACUM LEG VI. VICTRIX But how it is that Victor in his History of the Caesars hath called Yorke Municipium or free towne of Britaine being as it was a Colony I require farther time to deliberate thereupon unlesse it were that the inhabitants of Yorke like as sometime the Praenestines did choose rather from a Colony to bee brought unto the state of a free-Burgh For Colonies having as Agellius writeth lawes customes and rights at the will of the people of Rome and not at their owne pleasure seemed more obnoxious and their condition not so free whereas free Cities such as in Latin are named Municipia used rights Lawes and orders of their owne and the Citizens or Burgesses thereof were partakers with the people of Rome in their honourable Offices onely and bound of necessity to nothing else No mervaile therefore if Colonies were changed into Free Burroughs But to what end stand I upon this point This difference of the name is not in the story of the Emperours so exactly observed but that one and the selfe same place is called both a Colony and a Municipium or Free City Howbeit out of that peece of money I dare not constantly affirme that Severus first conducted and planted this Colony seeing that Ptolomee and Antonine himselfe writeth it was the seat of the sixth Legion in the Antonines time But we reade that Severus had his Palace in this City and heere at the houre of death gave up his last breath with these words I entred upon a state every where troublesome and I leave it peaceable even to the Britans His body was carried forth here to the funerall fire by the souldiers after the military fashion and committed to the flames honoured with Justs and Turneaments of his souldiers and his owne sonnes in a place beneath this City Westward neere to Ackham where is to be seene a great Mount of earth raised up which as Raulph Niger hath recorded was in his time of Severus called Sivers His ashes being bestowed in a little golden pot or vessell of the Porphyrite stone were carried to Rome and shrined there in the Monument of the Antonines At which time there was in this City the Temple of Goddesse Bellona For Spartianus speaking of Severus and this very City saith thus When Severus returned and came into the City purposing to offer sacrifice he was led first of all to the