Citadel wherein according to credible report there are stor'd up Arms for Forty thousand men at least a very considerable business The next thing that falls under our consideration and description is the Citie of Reggio in this Dukedome of Modena Aemilia dein via pergenti dextra Seciae ripa omissa Regium Lepidi occurrit ripae Crustuli laevae adpositum saith Merula in his Cosmography As to its name 't is called by Tully in his Epistle to Cassius and others Regium Lepidi by Tacitus Regium Lepidum by Strabo l. 5. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Ptolemy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Antoninus Regium onely and at this day 't is commonly known by the name of Reggio In this place heretofore there was Forum Lepidi as Festus observes The inhabitants are called Regienses from Lepidus in Pliny as also Regini à Regio Julio Nor hath Heaven been more propitious to this Citie or Fortune more favourable than to Modena for it hath run almost the same risque and tasted of the same misery and misfortune It was at first made a Romane Colony as well as Modena M. Aemilius Lepidus who gave it a name T. Ebusius Carus and L. Quinctius Crispinus being then Triumviri It was destroyed by the Goths when they made incursions into and embarassed all Italy under Alarico their King the Citizens were constrained by reason of the fury of an enraged and barbarous enemy to abandon it and flee to more secure retirements and places till the Lombards were conquer'd and beaten out of Italy by Charles the Great about the year 800 at what time by degrees the Citizens returned to their desolate Citie and began to restore repair and immure it with a strong Wall It was governed by it self for some time in liberty after the manner of the other Cities in Italy and this freedom and liberty continued till the year 1286 and then it came under the Dominion of Earls and Princes and 't was first under the command of the Earls of Canosse then those of Esté the Caesars the Kings of France then it was subject to the Papal Sea and had also the Foliani Scaligers Gonzagae and Ottobuoni for its Lords So Blondus Antoninus Platina and Sabellicus So far Morula Heylin saith When they were under the command of the Earls of Canosse they grew weary of that Yoke and recovered their Liberty which being unable to maintain in those bustling times they gave themselves to Obizo the father of Azo anno 1292. and after that in the year 1326 to the Sea of Rome Passing thorow many hands it was at last sold for 60000 Ducats to the Visconti Lords of Milain an 1370 and in the end recovered by the House of Esté anno 1409 and gave the Title of a Duke to Borsius Marquess of Ferrara whom Frederick the 3. made Duke of Modena and Reggio anno 1452. The Successours of Borsius held the Estate together till the death of Alphonso the first Duke who dying without lawful issue anno 1592 left his Estate to Caesar d'Esté his Nephew by a natural son called Alphonso also between whom and Pope Clement the 8 a War was threatned for the whole but at last comprimised upon these Conditions That the Church of Rome should have Ferrara with all the Lands and Territories appertaining to it as an Estate anciently held of that Sea And that Modena and Reggio being Imperial Feifs should remain to Caesar but to be held in Fee of the Papal Throne Duke Caesar to have leave to carry away all his moveables to sell such of his Lands as were not of the ancient Demain of the Dukedome and to have one half of the Ordnance and Artillery By which Agreement the Cities of Modena and Reggio became a new-erected State distinct and independent of any other each Citie being well Fortified Garisoned and furnished with Ordnance for defence thereof But what they yield unto the Prince in the way of Revenue and what Force he is able to raise out of his Estate I cannot positively determine but by the Tribute formerly paid unto the Popes for the Citie of Mutina now Modena and the rich Territories of both Towns and the great Revenues of the Dukes of Ferrara I conceive they cannot yeeld less than 100000 Crowns of yearly Income Thus far Heylin in his Cosmography Reggio saith Merula Vrbs est lauta nobilis frequens solo sita valde fertili loco pulchro amoeno planeque regio unde illi quorundam judicio nomen This Citie is built on the Via Aemilia and named Regium Lepidi by Strabo Cicero Cornelius Tacitus and other Authors By whom it was built is not certainly known though 't is reported by some to be erected by the Toscans who being expulsed as Livy and Polybius affirm the Gauls or French possessed it and afterwards it was made a Colony by M. Aemilius Lepidus one of the Triumviri T. Ebutius Carus and L. Quinctius Crispinus being the other two as is before mentioned Some contend that Marius Lepidus one of the said Triumvirate who divided the Romane Empire was its Founder others that it was built long before his time but by him made a Colony 'T is a noble splendid and well-peopled Citie abounding with all things it hath fair and spacious streets with sumptuous structures as the magnificent Church of S. Prospero Bishop of this Citie where his corpse is devoutly kept having a very plentiful Revenue and being adorn'd with excellent Portraictures but particularly with some Pieces drawn by the famous Correggio worthy of eternal Fame In the walls of the Orchard of the R. R. P. P. de Servi was not long since discovered an Image of the holy Virgin held in great esteem there for its Miracles with uncommon and superstitious I had almost said idolatrous veneration Reggio abounds with all necessaries for the use of man the Soil is extraordinary fertil of all manner of Grain and all sorts of Fruits White Wines it hath good store and a sort of Wine call'd Vinum Helvolum of its colour being between a red and white 'T is very much fam'd and taken notice of for the rare art of making Spurs the best in Italy and other Mechanical pieces in Ivory politely and exactly done according to art The Reggians are a people very courteous and affable of a good mein and presence of present wit and quick apprehension vivacious and sprightly and to be moulded and brought to any great or august employment The Women as those of Modena are very milde and the finest in all Italy It is adorn d with a Bishoprick subject to the same Archbishop as Modena and hath brought forth many famous men who have rendred it very illustrious as D. Maximus one of its Bishops Guido Sagaranus Philip Casolus James Columbus Charles Ruinus Francis Belius Julius Scarlatinus famous Lawyers Sebastianus Carradus profoundly learned in the Greek and Latine Tongues and Bartholomew Crottus a great Poet of his time It contains many noble Families as the
and adorned with several fair Towns and Villages than delicious Wines and Fruit-trees Towards Parma you may take a view of a Castle strengthned by its site where Mathilde the Countess preserv'd Pope Gregory the seventh from the snares and ambushes prepared for him by the Emperour Henry the fourth an enemy to the Church of Rome but afterwards he being a tender-conscienc'd Religioso repented of this imaginary and supposititious Crime and was led a Royal dance by his Confessor bare-foot and bare-headed in the midst of Winter through Ice and Snow from this place to the said Pope to implore a Pardon for this his Peccadillo and obtained it with a courteous reception A remarkable Instance and notorious Precedent of the Tyranny Haughtiness and Vain-glory of his Ironical nick-nam'd Holiness who dares presume so proudly and imperiously to insult over nay buffoon a puissant Potentate making him foot it bare in the depth of a hard Winter to the Idolatrous Citie of his residence and thereby run the risque of losing his life to gain a fruitless and insignificant Pardon But this he must do or forfeit all his Regalia and be daily menaced with that silly Scar-crow the Thunder of Excommunication Thus Monarchy grows consumptive hangs the head droops and dwindles away to nothing and so expires King is a meer empty name or the more glorious synonyma of Vassals and Prince the more splendid name of Slave Thus the Scepter warps to the Crosier the Emperours Hat vails to the Bishops Mitre and the single does obeysance to the triple Crown Thus Regal Authority whose tender neck was ever unaccustomed to the burden of a tame condescention puts on the heavie Yoke of Pontifical rigorous imposition Thus here you see the great most Christian Ring crouch to Antichrist or being Crown-fallen as well as Crest-fallen Thus Majestie it self inclines the reverend head stoops low with a reverential bow to kiss that vulgarly-ador'd Pantofle which frequently proves but the gaudy covering of a Gowty toe At this day the most Noble Family of the Canossae are Lords of this Castle and the rest that encircle it and a small distance from this stand the Castles and other places that belong to the Signori Manfredi Keeping the way on the Mountains you come to Graffignana where Castelnuovo is to be seen which in times of yore was the Birth-place of many Illustrious persons and in this our modern age of Giulio Vrbano Doctor and Apostolick Prothonotary who liv'd in great repute and esteem among Princes Popishly inclin'd and was highly applauded by the Fry of the Septuagint of Cardinals that pay homage to and revere the pretended and triple-Crown'd Successor of the Fisherman who did a long time officiate as Vicar-general in lieu of the Miter'd Cardinal Linga Carnaro Bishop of Padua and in that quality died anno 1592. May the same mortality and good fortune in God's due time attend the whole Conclave that 's my Litany His brother Vrban was Captain of the Venetian Militia and Filippo Vrbano their Nephew In your return to the Aemilian way occurs the Castle of Scandiano dignified with the Title of a Marquisate subject to the Signori Feni noble and renown'd Vicentines On the left hand lies the Castle Roldo belonging to the House of the Sessi a Feudatory of the Emperour with San Martino Gonzaga the most splendid Village belonging to the Gonzagae Princes of Mantua and Muvilara Between Modena and Reggio Correggio appears not far from the River Lenza a noble Castle well govern'd and as well peopled it was called a citie of the Empire and appertains to the most Illustrious Family of the Correggii and where the River Lecchia dichotomizeth the Via Aemilia stands a very strong Castle call'd Ruberia or Rubiera by the Learned Herberia erected as some conjecture by the Boiardi and as others imagine by the Rubrii of Parma which had serveral Masters till the year 1523 and then it fell into the hands of the Dukes of Ferrara and was made famous by the birth of Antonius Codrus a most polite Grecian and expert Latinist being a man of great Learning and vast Parts This Castle is strongly fortified with a well-made Bulwark or Rampart and surrounded with many Hills which adde much grace and beauty to its situation and renders the prospect very delightful From hence you pass into a spacious and good Road very commodious for all Travellers that steer their course that way and designe to arrive at the capital Citie Modena of which we have already given you a large and exact description In this Tract there are four Apennine hills and as many Cities which are indebted to the Countess Mathilde for their foundation viz. Bibianello Castelvitreo Monte Zano and Monte Luzco all under the command and jurisdiction of the Earls of Canossae Having given you a court and true account of the Government Riches Force Religion Manners and Qualifications of the People of this ancient and illustrious Dukedom as also the nature and quality of the Soyl and Climate I shall by way of Corollary close all with a short relation of the Original Antiquity and Genealogie of the Dukes of the House of Esté and bring them down by descent to the most Illustrious person who at present is the undoubted and lawful Prince of the Dukedom of Modena The Princes of the House of Esté have been so considerable and so much taken notice of both in Peace and War that John Baptista Pigna hath with much industry and learning composed eight Books of the original noble exploits and transactions of this Princely Family in Italy and other countries As to their original he saith that Ateste Commander of the Heneti now Venetians after the sacking and destruction of Troy was driven into these parts with a considerable Navie and built the Citie Atestia or Ateste of his own name and he called the whole Tract of ground Venetia but the Latine degenerating by degrees from its purity the Citie lost the primitive e name of Atestia and sensibly shrunk into that of Esté This Atestes descended from the Atii of the Poblilian Tribe in Rome who because they did espouse the Quarrel of the Caesars did obtain so much grace and favour as to be Lords not onely of their own Country but also of all the Territories of Venice And here the Atestini for so they were call'd of old began to b e in reputation and these Princes do produce their Chronologie of 1200 years to manifest and testifie their Grandeur in a continued Series down to this present Age. Thus the Atii became Masters of a great part of Venice when Ateste was their capital Citie of Residence and the Romane Caesars being then accustomed to create a Magistracie consisting of eleven of the chief Citizens and sometimes a greater number who were also called Decuriones because at the first institution ten onely were requir'd Atius the son of C. of the last Race and the first Author of the Family of the
Signori Canossae Manfredi Fogliani and Sessi who possess great Lordships there and have very noble and large Castles for their Apartments or Mannor-houses Now I have given you an account-of these two capital Cities of the great Dukedome of Modena I will cast my eye with a retrospect upon some other famous Castles Towns and Places within their Territories and acquaint you with some passages and rarities that may merit the observation and gratifie the curiosity of the diligent and industrious Enquirer that will make it his business to pry into them On the left side of the River Po saith my Author there stands the Arx Stellata a Castle fabriqued by Nicolas 3. of the House of Esté who was Marquess of Ferrara but the greatest part of it was in process of time overthrown by the Legions of Pope Julius the 11 and the Venetians And upon the Bank of the River Po is seen a new-built Town call'd Rovero a neat and large place Towards the South of Modena under the Apennines stand Formagine Spezzano and ten miles off Sassulo a Noble and civil place with a sumptuous Castle of the Family of the Pii watred by the River Secchia where is also a fair Church dedicated to the blessed Virgin About half a mile short of Sassulo is the Temple of the Saint Maria Sassutina so called from the Castle Sassulo situated at the very foot of the Apennine hills or mountains on the left side of the banks of Secchia Upon these Mountains stand many other Villages and Hamlets and are plainly visible in the Eastern part of Modena These Castles were formerly subject to several Lords and particularly to them of Monte who were very powerful at that time in these Countries and possessed all the Places in the Graffignana which confines on Bologna and among the rest Sestola and Fanano Westward the Alps of San Pellegrine appear to the view and the Castle Acquario famous for its Baths and their Medicinal waters and from thence 't is probably conjectur'd it takes its denomination Then turning to the South runs the Tyrrhene Sea somewhat near Bologna On the banks of the River Panaro stand Vetro and Spilimberto formerly call'd Spinum Lamberti two Castles belonging to the Signori Rangoni Four miles distant from thence you finde Vignola a Town dignified with a Marquisate subject to the Signori Buoncompagni which borders upon the Bolognian Territories Towards the North is situated the most Noble Castle or rather Imperial Citie call'd Carpi which may deservedly come in competition with many Cities if you consider the populousness or ingenuity of the People and the superfluity of all necessaries It is honoured with the title of a Principality and was for many years enjoyed by the Signori Pii but at this day it is under the Duke of Modena Then there is to be seen the ample noble and opulent Monastery of S. Benedict Podolironus built by Boniface the father of Countess Mathilde and enlarged by the said Countess whose Sepulchre is there likewise And Guardistallo famous for two Councils held there one under Pope Vrban the 8 and the other under Paschal the 11 witness Platina in the History of their Lives and Blondus in his fourteenth Book of Historical Relations On the Banks of the River Po somewhat farther Brescello fronts you call'd Brixillum by Pliny in his third Book and Plutarch in the Life of Otho the Emperour by Ptolemy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by Tacitus Suetonius Antoninus and Paulus Diaconus It was formerly a Citie saith Leander and taken by Anthare King of the Lombards who dismantled and levell'd the walls with the ground according to Paulus Diaconus in his Continuation of Eutropius l. 28. and Blondus in the 8 Book of his History On the left hand of the banks of the River Lenza stands Tanedo nam'd by Livy in many places and Pliny who affirms that there was a man there 120 years old Tannetum by Polybius Tanetus by Ptolemy 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and hence it is that Pliny calls the people Tanetani It was subverted by Cese King of the Lombards saith Paulus Diaconus was restored and reduced to the form that now it appears in being at present a Village or Hamlet In the Eastern part of Modena is a Chanel upon which you may pass by Boat 8 miles at length till you arrive at Finale then going on the River Panaro where the Chanel disembarques it self into that River is seen Buon Porto and San Felice much commended for generous Wines Along the Aemilian way three miles from Modena runs the River Panaro near which are the confines of the Modonesi and Bolognesi where Claudius the Consul coping with his enemies took 15000 Prisoners and 700 Ligurians Nay farther in this very place Rotari King of the Lombards routed the Romane Army with the slaughter of 7000 Souldiers Here also the Forces of the Modonesi being discomfited by the Bolognesi Euzo King of Sardegna the son of Erderick the second was taken Prisoner On the other side of Panaro is Novantola with a Monastery famous both for its antiquity as well as stateliness founded by Anselmo nearly related to Astolfo King of the Lombards who was a redoubted Captain in their Army Near the Aemilian way between Bologna and Novantola stands Santa Agata a Castle erected by Barbarossa the Emperour and Crevalcuore formerly known by the name of Allegracuore where the Army of Bernabo Visconte Lord of Milain was defeated and put to the Rout. Next you go to San Giovanni a Country very plentiful of Wheat and other Grain On the left side of Via Aemilia stand Castiglione and Castelfranco 15 miles off of Bologna where some few years past there was raised a most impregnable Fort by Pope Vrban the 8 and from him called Vrbano Neer this Fort is the Foro di Galli where Hirsius and Pansa two Romane Consuls were engaged with M. Antonius who obtained a glorious Victory but withal their mortal wounds whereof they both died upon the place as is prementioned Then there appear Purmanio Bazanio and Crepellano three pleasant Castles seated on those hillocks that are at the foot of the Apennines On the left hand of the Aemilian way five miles from Bologna are the Rivers Lavinio and Ghirondon which meeting together with mutual embraces joyntly environ Forcelli in a triangular form being distant from Via Aemilia one mile where Octavianus M. Antonius and Marius Lepidus shared the Monarchy between them This Forcelli is now a Peninsula though it may be perceived to have been an Islet formerly Afterwards these two Rivers disgorge themselves into the Po. Near Bologna there is seen a Stone-bridge of great length which bestrides the River from one side to the other from whence 't is but a small and easie mile to Bologna Now we come to the places contiguous and adjacent to Reggio near which there appear certain Hills that erect their lofty crest so pleasantly as does create delight in all Passengers no less beautified