inheritance of George against the Palatine who had married the daughter of George and was by his last Will made his heire He died 1508. Albert the 5 built 3 Colledges for the Iesuites He married Anna daughter to the Emperor Ferdinand and died in the yeere 1579. William borne 1548 married Rinata Daughter to Francis Duke of Lorayne in the yeere 1568. Maximilian D. of Bauaria Phillip Bishop of Ratisbona Ferdinand a Praepositus of Colen and Channon of Trier One Sister Maximiliana Ferdinand borne in the yeere 1550. Ernestus Bishop of Liege after Archbishop and Elector of Colon borne in the yere 1554. Maria Maximilian borne 1552. Maria borne 1553 and maried to Charles Arch-Duke of Austria 1572. William made warre against the Duke of Wirteberg and died in the yeere 1577. Sibill married to Lodwick the fourth Elector Palatine died in the yeere 1511. Sabina married to Vlrich Duke of Wirteberg died in the yeere 1564. Sidonia married to Philibert Marquis of Baden William Count of Holland by right of his wife Of him descended the Counts of Holland From this Lodwick discend the Dukes of Bauaria It was couenanted and stands agreed betweene the House of the Electors Pallatines and the house of the Dukes of Bauaria that vpon want of heires males one of them should succeede the other and when the Daughter to the Duke of Bauaria in the time of the Emperour Maximilian opposed her selfe to this contract she was forced to yeeld to it by the Emperour I returne to the Electors Palatines The foresaid Frederick the fourth Pallatine and Elector being vnder age had Duke Iohn Casimire his fathers brother for his Tutor who at his brothers death besieged the Citie of Colen in the name of the Bishop whom they had driuen out for being married This Casimire in his brothers life-time had a noble inheritance beyond the Rheine to him and his heires and then hearing of his brothers death hasted to Heidleberg where he brought the people to obedience who would not haue him Administrator because he professed the Reformed Religion after Caluins doctrine not after that of Luther And he presently sent backe the Emperours Ambassadours who were come thither about that controuersie refusing to yeeld his right in the Tutorage of his Nephew which he defended in the Imperiall Chamber at Spire After he brought vp his Nephew wisely and religiously appointing him his diet apart with his Teachers and the Steward of his Court to whose table one Professour of the Vniuersity was daily inuited who had charge to propound a question to the Prince out of the Histories and controuersies of Religion And the Prince did not presently make answere except it were in a common subiect but asked time to consider of it and consulting apart with his Teachers after some halfe houer returned to giue his answere Thus by daily practise the chiefe accidents of Histories and controuersies of Religion were made familiar to him The Citie Heidelberg somtimes held in Fee froÌ the Bishop of Wormz was in time beutified with buildings and an Vniuersity and became the seate of the Electors The said Elector Frederike the fourth being a pupill was after the foresaid manner brought vp in the Reformed religion according to the doctrine of Caluine but in the meane time Richard the Duke of Hunnesruck his next heire if hee should die without issue male did obstinately follow the reformed doctrine of Luther and so did the rest of his kinsmen the Dukes of Zweybruck their towne being so called of the two Bridges excepting the second brother of them who consented in Religion with the Elector This Elector Frederick the fourth married the daughter to the Prince of Orange by his wife of the French family de Chastillion His Court was not great nor any way comparable to that of the Elector of Sexony For he had scarce thirtie Gentlemen to attend him and to them he gaue no more then some twenty fiue Guldens for stipend which they spent vpon their seruants that attended them and kept their horses And he had no more then eight Yeomen for the Guard of his body Wine was sparingly drawne and all expences made with great frugalitie But the fame of this Electors wisedome and affabilitie made him much esteemed of strangers and while he conuersed with his Citizens often comming to the publike place for exercise of the Peece and Crosse-bow and being easie of accesse yet carried himselfe like a graue and noble Prince hee became deare to his subiects Of whom hee exacted moderate tribute for their lands houses money and goods and some two small fennings for each Mosse or measure of wine In fiue places vpon the Rheine he exacted impositions or taxes which one yeere with another yeelded some twelue or sixteene thousand French Crownes and they said that hee receiued yeerely some fifty or sixty thousand Crownes by the siluer Mines of Anneberg besides extraordinarie subsidies which his subiects vse to grant him vpon occasion of war or like necessities of the Commonwealth And I remember when the Citizens of Strasburg his neighbours made warre with the brother of the Duke of Loraine about their Bishopricke so as the Palatine was forced to leuy souldiers for defence of his people from the rapine of both Armies that he imposed an extraordinary subsidie vpon his subiects of a quarter of a Doller for each hundred Dollers any man possessed in moueable or vnmoueable goods The Margraue or Marquis of Brandeburg is by the first institution the last of the Electors but more powerfull then any of them in the number of Vassals and his territories are much larger then those of the Elector of Saxony but his reuenewes are nothing so great He held his Court at Berlin some twelue German miles distant from Wittenberg in Saxony His pedigree is deriued from Peter Columna a Roman Patritian of the ancient blood of the Camills who banished by Pope Gregorie the seuenth had lands giuen him in Sueuia by the Emperour Henrie the fourth and built the castle of Zagaroll and about the yeere 1120 had a sonne called Burchard Burchard Count of Zoller his Castle so called Frederick the first race of the Burgraues of Nurnberg being extinct was inuested 1273 of that dignity by the Emperour Rodulphus whose sister was mother to Frederick Frederick the second Burgraue of Nurnberg died in the yeere 1330. Frederick Burgraue of Nurnberg had the Marquisate of Brandeburg conferred on him by the Emperor Sigismund and also the Electorship in the yeere 1427 and hee sold the Castle and Burgraueship of Nurnberg to the City of Nurnberg Hee died in the yeere 1440. Iohn Marquis of Brandeburg at his fathers commandement yeelded the Electorship to his second brother and died in the yeere 1464. Frederick Marquisse and Elector going into Palestine did yeeld the Electorship to his brother Albert and died in the yeere 1470. Albert Marquisse and Elector called the Achilles of Germany ouercame the Citizens of Nurnberg in eight battels and in the
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of ãâã that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for ãâã or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
for my doublet and hose eight lites to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire that is twenty sols for washing it two sols and for washing foure handkerchers one sol And this shall suffice for particular expences The City Paduoa was built by Antenor a Troian and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey ioined themselues to these Troians These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa where Hereules left them and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues then the French subdued all this Prouince till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans and were made Citizens of Rome The Roman Empire declining the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa into the lakes of Venice Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa and the Longobards burnt it which being rebuilt and flourishing vnder the German Emperors Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the faction of the Guelphes Gibellines Paduoa then from that time hath bin subiect to many Princes of the Scaligers Cararrians til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it and to this day it is subiect to them who send a Magistrate called Podesta euery fifteene moneths to gouerne it Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey till after Antenors death the Heneti called it Paduoa of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word vpon the flying of Swannes others say it is so called of the riuer Po called in Latine Padus or of the territory lying beyond the Po the Riuer giuing name to the territory and that to the City Before it was destroied by Attila it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus but after it was built on the other side in a fenny soyle where now the market place is but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse and of a triangular forme as it seemed to me The first angle is on the North-side where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine and the stately Pallace Areno in which the French King Henry the third was lodged when hee returned from Poland into France The second angle is towards the East where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice The third angle is towards the South where is the monastery Santo called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon and the monastery of Saint Iustina And these angles taken away the old City is round On the West-side vpon the wals is built the old Pallace of the old City Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain hauing no trees neere the City Of old the wall was triple and now it is double The inner wall is some three miles in compasse and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about with pleasant shade of trees where Gentlemen vse to play at the balloone This wall compassed round with the Brent hath foureteene gates with as many bridges of stone The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall which is about seuen miles compasse and hath six stately gates but this wall is nothing so strong as the other The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa from that of Uerona and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara Two riuers of old called Medonci enter the City the greater at this day called Brenta falling from the Alpes with the right hand branch runneth to Paduoa and with the left hand branch to Rosta and diuiding againe into two branches one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa the greater takes the name Bachilio and neere to the wals of Paduoa receiues the waters of Brentella increased with a branch of Brenta These Riuers enter the City and with diuers channels driue many mils compasse the wals and not onely make the fields fertile but serue to carry all commodities abounding here from hence to Venice and to bring from thence such things as they want and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull and the building is with arches of stone hanging ouer the streets vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine but the streetes are thereby made narrow and in the middest are dirty There be fiue market places in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke in the second herbes are sold in the third corne in the fourth wood and in the fifth straw The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony is inhabited by Franciscan Friars and is much fairer then any other religious house the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno and after to the Virgin Mary and at last to Saint Anthony The pauement thereof is of marble and the building very stately hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead and three high towers The Chappell wherein S t Anthony lies is all of marble round about it the miracles are engrauen which they attribute to this Saint at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this S t which they tie about their loyns and attribute strange effects thereunto Here is a statua of marble erected to Peter Bembus and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata In the Church of Franciscan Minorites there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello a Physitian sitting in his chaire In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina the order of Saint Benedict was first established and from thence dispersed into Italy and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord and after being made the Bishops Church was endowed with great rents These Monkes haue a blacke habit and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple and to haue conuerted Paduoa and to haue baptised Saint Iustina when shee suffered Martyrdome and likewise of Saint Maximus both Bishops and protecting Saints of the City as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist brought by Vrius a Monke from Constantinople but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them Biondus writeth that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius In the first court yard of this Monastery the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted In the second I found this Epitaph Adoleseens tametsi proper as Hoc te saxum rogat vt se aspicias Deinde quod scriptum est legas
the land being seuered from it by waters and on the sea being hedged in with a strong sea banke but also giue ioyfull rest vnder their power to their subiects on land though exposed to the assault of their enemies The City parted in the middest with the great channell comming in from the sea banke neere the two Castles is of old diuided into six sextaries or six parts vulgarly sestieri three on this side the channell and three beyond the channell The first sextary on this side the channell is that of Saint Marke for howsoeuer it be not the Cathedrall Church yet it is preferred before the rest as well because the Duke resides there as especially because Saint Marke is the protecting Saint of that Ciry The body of which Saint being brought hither by Merchants from Alexandria this Church was built in the yeere 829. at the charge of the Duke Iustinian who dying gaue by his last will great treasure to that vse and charged his brother to finish the building which was laid vpon the ruines of Saint Theodores Church who formerly had beene the protecting Saint of the City And the same being consumed with fire in the yeere 976. it was more stately rebuilt according to the narrownes of the place the Merchants being charged to bring from all places any precious thing they could find fit to adorne the same whatsoeuer it cost The length of the Church containeth two hundred foot of Venice the bredth fifty the circuit 950. The building is become admirable for the singular art of the builders and painters and the most rare peeces of Marble Porphry Ophites stones so called of speckles like a serpent and like stones and they cease not still to build it as if it were vnfinished lest the reuenues giuen by the last wils of dead men to that vse should returne to their heires as the common report goes There were staires of old to mount out of the market place into the Church till the waters of the channell increasing they were forced to raise the height of the market place On the side towards the market place are fiue doores of brasse whereof that in the middest is fairest and the same with one more are daily opened the other three being shut excepting the dayes of Feasts Vpon the ground neere the great doore is a stone painted as if it were engrauen which painting is vulgarly called Ala Mosaica and vpon this stone Pope Alexander set his foot vpon the necke of the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa adoring him after his submission The outward part of the Church is adorned with 148. pillars of marble whereof some are Ophytes that is speckled and eight of them are Porphry neere the great doore which are highly esteemed And in all places about the Church there be some six hundred pillars of marble besides some three hundred in the caues vnder ground Aboue these pillars on the outside of the Church is an open gallery borne vp with like pillars from whence the Venetians at times of Feasts behold any shewes in the market place And aboue this gallery and ouer the great doore of the Church be foure horses of brasse guilded ouer very notable for antiquity and beauty and they are so set as if at the first step they would leape into the market place They are said to be made to the similitude of the Horses of Phoebus drawing the Chariot of the Sunne and to haue beene put vpon the triumphall Arke of Nero by the people of Rome when he had ouercome the Parthians But others say that they were giuen to Nero by Tiridates the King of Armenia and were made by the hands of the famous engrauer Lisippus These Horses Constantine remoued from Rome to Constantinople and that City being sacked the Venetians brought them to Venice but they tooke of the bridles for a signe that their City had neuer beene conquered but enioied Virgin liberty And all the parts of these horses being most like the one to the other yet by strange art both in posture of motion and otherwise they are most vnlike one to the other Aboue this gallery the Image of Saint Marke of marble and like images of the other Euangelists of the Virgin Mary and of the Angell Gabriell are placed and there is a bell vpon which the houres are sounded for the Church hath his Clocke though another very faire Clocke in the market place be very neere it The roofe in forme of a Globe lies open at the very top where the light comes in for the Church hath no windowes and the Papist Churches being commonly darke to cause a religious horror or to make their candles shew better this is more darke then the rest I passe ouer the image of Saint Marke of brasse in the forme of a Lion guilded ouer and holding a booke of brasse Likewise the artificiall Images of the Doctors of the Church and others I would passe ouer the Image of the Virgin Mary painted ala Mosaica that is as if it were engrauen but that they attribute great miracles to it so as weomen desirous to know the state of their absent friends place a wax candle burning in the open aire before the Image and beleeue that if their friend be aliue it cannot be put out with any force of wind but if he be dead that the least breath of wind puts it out or rather of it selfe it goes out and besides for that I would mention that those who are adiudged to death offer waxe candles to this Image and as they passe by fall prostratero adore the same To conclude I would not omit mention thereof because all shippes comming into the Hauen vse to salute this Image and that of Saint Marke with peeces of Ordinance as well and more then the Duke A Merchant of Venice saued from shipwracke by the light of a candle in a darke night gaue by his last will to this Image that his heires for euer should find a waxe candle to burne before the same Aboue the said gallery are little chambers in which they lay vp pieces of stone and glasse with other materials for the foresaid painting ala Mosaica which is like to engrauing and Painters hauing pensions from the state doe there exercise that Art highly esteemed in Italy The outward roofe is diuided into foure globes couered with leade Touching the inside of the Church In the very porch thereof is the Image of Saint Marke painted with wonderfull art and the Images of Christ crucified of him buried and of the foure Euangelists highly esteemed besides many other much commended for the said painting like engrauing and for other workemanship And there be erected foure great pillars of Ophites which they say were brought from the Temple of Salomon At the entery of the doore is an old and great sepulcher in which lies the Duke Marine Morosini Not far thence is the image of Saint Geminian in pontificall habit and another of Saint Katherine both painted with great
to bee seene neere the Church of Saint Michael After it was subiect to the Kings of Italy and the Berengarij being ouercome it was subiect to the Emperour Otho the first by right of his wife and successiuely to the Emperours with some shew of a free Citie which freedome that they might more fully attaine they willingly yeelded themselues in the yeere 254 to the Archbishop of Rauenna After they were subiect to vsurping Citizens whom the Vicounts of Milan expelled and so ioyned this Citie to their State which together with the Dukedome of Milan came to the Spaniards hands in the time of the Emperour Charles the fifth I lodged here in a faire Inne but common to the baser for t the Hostesse whereof was a Masculine woman and by the night letting in Ruffines to drinke I was not a little affraid of some violence to bee offered mee in my chamber whereupon I firmely resolued with my selfe to lodge euer after in the best Inne and of best fame especially in Lombardy infamous for murthers and here I paied for my supper and my bed three reali I went on foote from Pauia going forth at the Nothwest Gate twenty miles through rich Pastures to Milan called la grande that is The great of the large circuit thereof The Citie hath the name of Olanus a Tuscane Captaine or the Latin word media lana that is Halfe wooll of those kinde of stuffes made in the Citie It is large populous and very rich seated in a Plaine as all Lombardy lies and that most firtile and by the commoditie of a little Riuer brought to the Citie by the French and almost compassing the same it aboundeth also with forraine Merchandise Of old it was the seate of many Roman Emperours but the Historie of the Citie being contained in the Historie of Italy I will onely remember that the Archbishop thereof long time challenged the Primacie in the Italian Church neuer acknowledging the Bishop of Rome for superiour and that he crowned the Emperour with a Crowne of Iron after the people of Milan had approued him That the King of the Ostrogothes had the same Crowne set vpon his head after his victorie which Crowne they say was giuen in signe that the Empire and the command of Milan were to be won by Iron That the Citizens of Milan were often Rebels to the Emperours That the Vicounts made vicarij of the Citie did by little and little subiect the Territorie and the Citie with title of Duke of Milan That the Family of Vicounts being extinct in Duke Philip about the yeere 1447 the Dukes of Orleance by right of their Mother and Francis Sforza by the right of his wife chalenged the inheritance of the Dukedome but the Emperour thought the same to bee fallen backe to his right That Francis Sforza was by the people first made Captaine of their forces then chosen Duke That the French King Francis the first defending the right of the Dukes of Orleans cast Sforza out of the Dukedome in the yeere 1449. That the Emperor Charles the sift casting out the French in the vere 1521 first restored Sforza to the Dukedome with some restraint of his power but he being dead inuaded the Dukedom himself wherupon after many contentions battels it came to his successours the Kings of Spaine of the family of Austria to whom at this day it is subject The Citie is of a round for me and hath nine gates the building shewes antiquitie and the houses are of bricke and low built excepting some stately Pallaces such as is that of the Duke of Terra Noua the streetes are broad and the pauement of bricke raised in the middest with broad stones When I came to the Citie on foote I made offer to enter at the Gate called Genese on the South side but the Guard refused me as a foot-man to pasle into the Citie and lest by my importunitie I should haue made them looke more narrowly into my qualitie they being commonly expert men to find out any disguised person I went backe into the Suburbes as it I would lodge there but as soone as I was out of sight I walked further towards the East compaising a great Fen and so ioyning my selfe to some Citizens returning from walking in the fieldes I entered with them into the Citie by the next Gate on the same South side which Gate is called Lodouico and was only kept by one souldier A little Brooke within the walles compasseth the very center of the Citie circularly beyond which Brooke on the North-side within the walles not farre from the Gate Zobia is a large Meadow wherein are no houses for there is the most strong Castle seated in a Plaine and kept by a Spanish Garrison into which no Frenchman may enter Therefore I hauing gotten so difficultly into the City restrained my curiositie from attempting to view this Castle lest I should rashly expose my selfe to great danger Further towards the North without the Gate Renza is a large Hospitall for those that are sicke of the plague hauing more chimnies as they say then the yeere hath dayes Not tarre from the Gate Genese is the Church of S. Laurence which os old was dedicated to Hercules by the Emperour Maximinianus Erculeus buried in the same and it hath a rare Image of the Virgin Marie and 16 stately Marble Pillars and the building is Magnificent The Emperour Theodosius is said to haue giuen to S. Ambrose Archbishop of Milan one of the nailes wherewith Christ was fastened to the Crosse and the brasen Serpent that Moses lift vp in the Desert the Image of which Serpent was of mixt mettall vulgarly called di bronzo and they say that S. Ambrose left these reliques in the Churches of S. Tccla and of S. Ambrose and the Altar vnder which the body of S. Ambrose lies is valued at 28000 Crownes In the Church Delle Gratte belonging to the Bene dictine Friers not farre from the Gate Zobia is a stately Throne and vnder it an vnperfected monumeÌt which Duke Lodouico Sforza purposed to haue built for himselfe but the French cast him out of his Dukedome and he died in France And in this Monastery is a notable Library and in the place where the Friers eate the supper of our Lord is painted with wonderfull art In the little Chappell of S. Gottard is the sepulcher of that Saint whose name the mountaine of the Alpes doth beare which is most famous for the difficult passage The great stately Cathedrall Church called Il Domo is built all of white marble and supported with some 100 marble pillars in which at this day they sing the masse of S. Ambrose differing from the Roman Masse and onely agreeing therewith in the words of consecration From Milan to Cremona are accounted 52 miles and I making short stay at Milan for the danger of my abode there hired a horse to Cremona for a Crowne of gold wanting 8 soldi and riding out at the
prospect and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die No situation can be imagined more pleasant then that of Arqua lying in the mouth of Mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua famous for the corrupting of ãâã Army But it is a ãâã worke to praise the Euganian hils which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified Vpon Friday the third day of March after the new stile in the beginning of the yeere 1593 according to the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary of the end of the yeere 1594 according to the English beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes which support the vines so that one field giues bread wine and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way that I might see a wonderfull Caue and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza The Caue was large and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes because there were certaine mils which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written AEolus hic clauso ventorum ãâã cere regnat AEolus here in the winds prison raignes The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke but the building howsoeuer it be very stately is not like to that of other Cities in these parts in this one point namely that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes and being supported with arches giueth the passengers shelter from raine Here I did see a Theater for Playes which was little but very faire and pleasant In the market place there is a stately Pallace and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars is fairely built and hath a rich Library and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned The Citie is subiect to the Venetians and is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates called quarterolli and for the stable so they call hay straw and the stable roome and so I will hereafter call it I paid twenty soldi Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi for a foote-man that had attended me hither and was to returne to Paduoa From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona in a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy lying on my left hand towards Italy farther then I could see and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes abounding with vines growing low vpon hort stakes and yeelding rich wines I entered Verona on the East side by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono They write that the City was of old called Berona by the name of the Founder thereof but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans and had the name of the Family Vera and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute the necke whereof lies towards the West on which side the Riuer Athesis running towards the East doth not only compasse the City but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer The bankes of Athesis vulgarly called ãâã Adice are ioined together with three bridges of stone and one of marble and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils rising towards the distant mountaines It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with Arches to auoid raine as other Cities are in those parts but the building of the houses is stately and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses as the manner is in strong Townes It hath a pure aire and is ennobled by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens who are indued with a chearefull countenance magnificent mindes and much inclined to all good literature Verona was a free City vnder the Empire about the yeere 1155 till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City about the yeere 1259 did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City and made themselues Lords ouer it At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew partner with him of that Lordship about the yeere 1381 was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius the first Duke of Milan and he being dead William Scaliger helped by Francis Carrariensis droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted as scarcely any one was to be found of that name the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable treason of the said Francis to make the City subiect to them but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere 1509 by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian the City became subiect to the said Emperour till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517 vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth in great aboundance of all things On the North-side of the City without the wals is the mountaine Baldo hanging ouer the City and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes and vpon the side of this mountaine within the wals are no buildings but onely a strong Fort. On the south side lies the way to Mantua 23 miles distant and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine fiue miles long and ennobled with many skirmishes battels and victories In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri and Odoacer King of the Heruli who destroied the Westerne Empire was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy then possessing Italy
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
diet Their sheepe are very little bearing a course wooll and commonly blacke which they export not but make course cloath thereof for the poorer sort the Gentlemen and for the most part the Citizens wearing English cloath The libertie of hunting commonly reserued to Princes and absolute Lords and they haue great store of red Deare feeding in open Woods which the Princes kill by hundreds at a time and send them to their Castlas to be salted vsing them in stead of beefe for the feeding of their families They haue no fallow Deare except some wild kinds vpon the Alpes They haue great store of fresh fish in Lakes Ponds and Riuers among which the Lakes of Sweitzerland are most commended At Hamburg they catch such plentie of Sallmons as it is a common report that the seruants made couenant with their Masters not to bee fed therewith more then two meales in the weeke and from thence great plentie of Sturgeon is exported Either the cold driues away birds or else they labour not to take them for I did seldome see them ferued at the table but onely Sparrowes and some few little birds In all their Riuers I did neuer see any Swannes yet they say that at Lubeck and about priuate Castles of Gentlemen they haue some few They say that they haue some mines of Gold but surely they abound with mines of Siluer aboue all Europe and all mettals where so euer found are by a Law of the Golden Bull appropriated to the Emperour and to the Electors in their seuerall dominions Also they abound with copper and brasse where with they couer many Churches but within forty yeeres past the English haue brought them Leade which they vse to that and other purposes Also they haue great plenty of Iron and they haue Fountaines yeelding most white Salt in Cities farre within the land which Cities are commonly called Halla Austria beyond the Danow yeelds excellent Saffron and at Iudiburg in Styria growes store of Spica Celtica as the Latin Herbalists call it In the season of the yeere yellow Amber is plentifully gathered vpon the Sea coast of Prusfia and Pomerania The Germans export into forraigne parts and there sell many curious and well prised workes of manuall Art And it is worth the consideration that the Citizens of Nurnberg dwelling in a sandy and baeren soile by their industrie and more specially by their skill in these manuall Arts liue plentifully and attaine great riches while on the contrary the inhabitants of Alsatia the most fruitfull Prouince of all Germany neglecting these Arts and content to enioy the fatnesse of their soyle in slothfull rest are the poorest of all other Germans Moreouer the vpper part of Germany abounds with Woods of Firre which tree as the Lawrell is greene all Winter and it hath many Okes also vpon the Alpes and not else where and lower Germany especially towards the Baltick Sea aboundeth with Woods of Oke They conuey great store of wood from the Alpes into the lower parts by the Riuer Rheine cutting downe whole trees and when they are marked casting them one by one into the Riuer to be carried downe with the violent streame thereof or otherwise binding many together to floate downe with men standing vpon them to guide them And at many Cities and Villages they haue seruants which know the trees by the markes and gather them vp in places where they may best be sold. The Cities that are one the Sea-coast on the North side of Germany haue very great ships but more fit for taking in great burthen then for sayling or fighting which the Netherlanders more commonly fraught with their commodities then the Germans themselues neither are the German Marriners much to bee commended The German Sea in good part and the Baltick Sea altogether are free from Pyrats which is the cause that their ships are little or not at all armed onely some few that trade into Spaine carry great Ordinance but are generally made large in the ribs rather fit for burthen then fight at Sea I neuer obserued them to haue any common prayers morning or euening as our English ships haue while they bee at Sea but the Marriners of their owne accord vse continually to sing Psalmes and they are punished by the purse who sweare or so much as once name the diuell from which they abhorre And herein they deserue to be praysed aboue the Holanders in whose ships a man shall heare no mention of God or his worship The said free Cities of Germany lying on the Sea-coast are called Hansen-stetten that is free Cities because they had of old in all neighbour Kingdoms great priuiledges of buying any wares as wel of strangers as Citizens and of selling or exchanging their own wares to either sort at pleasure and to bring in or carry out all commodities by their owne shippes with like immunities equall to Citizens in all the said Dominions and no lesse preiudiciall to them then aduantageous to themselues In England they were wont to dwell together at London in the house called the Stilyard and there to enioy these liberties which long since haue laine dead the Germans seldome bringing ought in their ships into England and the English hauing now long time found it more commodious to vse their owne shipping and iustly complaining that the English had not the like priuiledges in the said free Cities for which cause the priuiledges of the Germans were laid dead in England though not fully taken away Caesar witnesseth that the Schwaben inhabiting Suenia then containing great part of Germany admitted Merchants not to buy any thing themselues but onely to sell the spoyles they got in warre But Munster a German writes that these Sueuians or schwaben are now the onely forestallers of all things sold in faires or Markets and that for this cause they are excluded from buying any thing through Germany except it bee sold in their owne Townes of trafficke In generall the Germans doe applie themselues industriously to all trafficke by land which onely the free Cities on the Sea-coast exercise somewhat coldly by sea At home the Germans among themselues spend and export an vnspeakeable quantity of Beere with great gaine which yeelds great profit to priuate Citizens and to the Princes or publike Senate in free Cities there being no Merchandize of the World that more easily findes a buyer in Germany then this For the Germans trafficke with strangers I will omit small commodities which are often sold though in lesse quantitie yet with more gaine then greater and in this place I will onely speake of the commodities of greater moment aswell those that the Country affords as those that buy in forraigne parts to be transported in their owne ships The Germans export into Italy linnen clothes corne wax fetcht from Dantzk and those parts and coyned filuer of their owne which they also exchange vncoined with some quantity of gold Into England they export boards iron course linnen clothes and of that
two hundred Dollers yeerely stipend and apparrell One chiefe and two inferiour Horse-leeches and Smiths foure Armourers to pollish the Armes for Tilting three Sadlers two Cutlers to pollish the Swords two Feathermakers and two Porters of the Stable had each of them one hundred Guldens yeerely stipend and apparell twice in the yeere Besides the Elector Christian had a Kingly Armoury or Arsonall for Artillery and Munitions of warre which they said had furniture for an Army of eighty thousand Men ouerseene by a Captaine or Master of the Ordinance his Liefetenant and three Captaines of the watch who had no small stipends besides fifty Gunners who had each of them sixe guldens by the moneth with yeerely apparrell But when I was at Dresden this Armory was much vnfurnished by aides newly sent into France to King Henry the fourth at the instance of his Ambassadour the Earle of Tarine These aides though sent with the consent of the foresaid Princes confederate yet were leuied as at the charge of the King of France and as voluntary men because the Princes are bound vpon paine to leese their fees and by the couenants of the peace giuen to the confession of Augsburg not to vndertake any waire without the Emperours knowledge which bonds are often broken the Princes of Germany administring all as absolute Princes onely with consent of their confederates But I passe ouer this and returne to the matter in hand The foresaid so many and so great stipends were most readily paid without delay out of the Exchequer called the Siluer Chamber monethly or yeerely as they did grow due And all the Pensioners aforesaid did keepe the horses in the city for which they had pay to which if you adde the 136 horses of the chiefe stable and the 200 kept by the D. in other stables you shal find that Dresden was neuer without a 1000 horses of seruice for any sudden euent And the number was not lesse of the horses which the Elector kept in his Castles not farre from the Citie so as he had euer as it were in a moment ready 2000 horses for all occasions This Christian Elector of Saxony was said to impose most heauy exactions vpon his subiects no lesse then the Italian Princes who place all their confidence in their treasure none at al in the loue of their subiects or then the Netherlanders who for feare to become slaues to the Spaniard beare vntollerable exactions The Country people about Dresden cried that they were no lesse oppressed then the Iewes in Egypt being daily forced to labour at their owne charge in fortifying the City And many complained that the Red Deare wilde Boares and like beasts destroied their fields for I said that the Duke was much delighted in hunting which is also forbidden to all euen the best Gentlemen no man daring so much as to driue the beasts out of their pasture and corne he that sets a Dog on them being subiect to great penalty and he that killes one of them being guilty of death But nothing did more cause the Duke to be maligned then that he had left the positions of Luther in religion and carefully endeuoured to establish those of Caluin as shal be shewed in due place His subiects were wont to pay for seuerall goods as a sheepe a cow and the like a yeerely tribute but of late it had been decreed by the 3 States that after the value of goods each man for 60 grosh should pay two fennings yeerely I meane as well moueable goods namely wares and ready money as houses lands and all vnmoueable goods and that not according to the yeerely value but yeerely according to the value at which they were or might be bought or sold. Neither could any man dissemble his wealth since that deceit will appeare at least vpon the last Will and Testament and once found vseth to be punished with repairing the losse and a great fine This tribut was at first granted only for 6 yeres but those ended the terme was renewed and so it continueth for euer And this tribute alone was said to yeeld yeerely 600000 guldens but the chiefe reuenue of the Elector was by the imposition vpon Beere which as I haue formerly said that people drinkes in great excesse And they said that this tribute also at first was imposed only for certaine yeeres But the Elector meaning nothing lesse then to ease them of this burthen of late there had bin a paper set by some merry lad vpon the Court gates containing these words in the Dutch tongue Ich woundschihm lang leben vnd kein gutten tag darneben vnd darnoch den hellisch fewr der hatt auffgehebt dab bearstewer Vndergeschreiben Das wort Gottes vnd das berestewer wheren in ewigkeit That is I wish long life may him befall And not one good day therewithall And Hell-fier after his life here Who first did raise this Taxe of Beare Post-script The Word of God and the Tax of Beare last for euer and euer The Brewers pay tribute according to the value of the brewing not according to the gaine they make namely some eighth part for one kind of Beare some fifth part for another kind in most places At Wittenberg I obserued that for one brewing of some 48 bushels of Mault worth some 48 guldens the Dukes Treasurer receiued 8 guldens This Treasurer doth foure times yeerely view the brewing vessels and number the Students of Wittenberg to preuent any defrauding of Tribute For howsoeuer in all these parts they drinke largely yet at Wittenberg in respect of the great number of Students and at Leipzig for the same cause and in respect of a great Faire this tribute growes to an higher rate then in other cities yet the Citie Torge though lesse in circuit then these only exceeds these and all other in yeelding this tribute because the beare therof is so famously good as it is in great quantitie transported to other Cities of these Prouinces where the better sort most commonly drink it and no other so as that Citie alone yeelds one yeere with another seuenteene thousand gold Guldens for tribute of Beare The same Citie makes yeerely seuen thousand wollen clothes each cloth thirty two elles long and worth some fourteene Dollers yet for each cloth they pay onely one siluer Grosh whereby it appeares that the tribute of cloth and like commodities is lightly esteemed as of lesse importance then the transcendent traffique of Beare Torge likewise yeerely paies to the Elector 500 Dollers for the fishing of a Lake neare the City which once in 3 yeeres was said to yeeld 5000 Dollars to the City One sole Prouince yet much inhabited and very fertill namely Misen was said one yeere with another to yeeld 1800000 Dollers for all tributes and halfe part thereof onely for Beare The Mines of Siluer are of great importance which by the Law belong to the Electors in their Prouinces not to the Emperour And this Elector hath many of these Mines-namely
Marpurg and died in the yeere 1567. The said Phillip married the Daughter to the Duke of Meckelburg and by her had the following issue William borne 1532 held his court at Cassiles hauing half the inheritance He deliuered his father out of prison and married Sabina daughter to the D. of Wirteberg and died not long before I passed through Germany Mauritius a most Noble young Prince Langraue of Cassiles vpon his Fathers late death Anna Maria married to Lodwick Count of Nassawe 1589. Heduigis then a Virgin Sophia then a Virgin Lodwick borne 1537 held his court at Marpurg had a fourth part of his fathers inheritance He first married Heduige daughter to the D. of Wirteberg after Mary of Mansfield both barren And at this time he liued but without any child Agnes married to Mauritius Elector of Saxony 1541 and after to Iohn Frederick D. of Saxonie George borne 1547 held his court at Dormstat and had a fourth part of his fathers inheritance and maried Magdelen daughter to Bernard Count of Lipp she was dead but he theÌ liued Lodwick oldest his Father yet liuing Phillip Iohn George Two Sisters Christian and Elizabeth Anna maried to the Duke of Zweybruck died 1581. Barbara married to George Earle of Mompelgard Elizabeth married to Lodwick the fourth Elector Palatine Christina maried to Adolphus of the roial bloud of Denmarke His Sister Elizabeth was married to Iohn Duke of Saxonie The foresaid William Langraue of Hessen of his chiefe City called the Langraue of Cassiles had in diuision with his brethren halfe his Fathers inheritance the other halfe being diuided betweene his two brothers And since that time I heard that his brother Lodwick of Marpurg was dead without issue and that his fourth part of this inheritance was returned to Mauritius eldest sonne to William Yet because Mauritius was addicted to the reformed Religion after the doctrine of Caluin which hee and his Courtiers with many subiects professed how soeuer hee had not yet made any generall alteration whereas his Vncle Lodwick persisted in the doctrine of Luther I remember the common speech in the land of Hessen that Lodwick had threatned his Nephew Mauritius to disinherit him and giue his lands to the children of his brother George of Dormstatt if he made any generall alteration in Religion I haue formerly said that the dignity of the Empire decaying many Principalities were giuen in Fee and the Lords thereof became absolute Princes At that time many great Cities were immediately subiect to the Empire whereof many were at sundrie times after ingaged for money to the said Princes At last the power of the Empire being more fallen by many Ciuill warres raised by the Popes to confirme their vsurped power ouer the Emperours these Cities with money bought their liberty partly of the Emperours partly of the said Princes from which time these Cities being called Imperiall and hauing freedome with absolute power became daily more and more beautified with buildings and strong by fortifications yet some Cities still subiect to diuers Princes yeeld not to them in beauty and strength as Dresden and Leipzig subiect to the Elector of Saxony Monach and Ingolstat subiect to the Duke of Bauaria and Breslaw the chiefe Citie of Silesia a Prouince ioyned to the Kingdome of Bohemia The Emperour at his election sweares that hee will maintaine these Cities in their freedome and not suffer them to be drawne backe to the subiection of the Empire or the said Princes Also I haue formerly spoken of the many and iust suspitions betweene the Emperour the Princes and these Free Cities which it were needlesse to repeate Of old the great Cities of the Empire were ninety sixe in number but many of them haue since been alienated to the Princes of Netherland or vnited by League to the Cantons of Sweitzerland so at this day there remaine only sixty Free Cities of the Empire Of the Common-wealths of these Cities it shall suffice in generall to haue said that the Gouernement is very moderate and equall The Patritians liue vpon their reuenues as Gentlemen The Plebeans intend Traffique and Shop-keeping and bee they neuer so rich neuer so wise can neuer become Patritians but still keepe their owne rancke as all other Orders doe And the Artisans so they keepe the Lawes which bind the highest as well as them are secure from the iniuries of any greater man In ciuill causes they iudge not after strict Law but according to equity and without delay but more easily to coniecture of all in generall It will not be amisse particularly to obserue the gouernement of some few And because Nurnberg is one of the chiefe I will beginne with it The Margraues of Brandeburg were of old Burgraues of Nurnberg till Fredericke the fourth about the yeere 1414 sold that his right and the Castle of Nurnberg to the Citizens thereof Albert his sonne called the Achilles of Germany for some duety denied to him made warre vpon the City drawing seuenteene Princes to take his part as the other free Cities assisted Nurnberg At this day the Margraue of Anspath being of that Family cals himselfe Burgraue of Nurnberg but hath onely the bare title without any command in the City yet because his lands lie on some sides vnder the very wals thereof the Citizens repute him a dangerous neighbour The common report was that this Margraue had lately sold to the City a great wood growing very neere the walles thereof and that shortly after hee was at variance with them as if hee had sold onely the wood and not the soyle so as if vulgar speech may be beleeued they were forced againe to buy the ground And yet he hath not renounced his right of hunting therein which he challengeth proper to himselfe Giue me leaue to digresse so much from my purpose as to say that the neighbourhood of this Margraue is no lesse suspected by the free City Wasenburg not farre distant where vpon a mountaine in his owne ground hanging ouer the City he hath built a strong Castle And because all the streetes of that little City lie open to it the Citizens when first he beganne to build complained to the Emperour of that wrong and obtained letters to command the Margraue to build no further but he not onely disobeyed those letters but built the same with more speed and strength Now I returne to Nurnberg the Common-wealth whereof is Aristocraticall The great Counsell hath no set number but commonly consists of some three hundred persons whereof many are Patricians liuing honourably vpon their rents as Gentlemen others are Merchants and some few Artisans of the best and richest workemen The Senate referres to this Counsell the impositions of tributes and the decrees of peace and warre which Subiects of Counsel being rare this Counsell is seldome called together but the authority of them is so great as the seales of any two of them set to any last Testament serues in steed of seauen witnesses
Hamburg were wont to haue it in like sort for sixe yeeres and so by turnes they were wont to enioy it Lubecke of old had a Duke till it was subiected to the Empire by the Emperour Fredericke the first after whose death it became subiect to their Duke againe and after fiue yeeres became subiect to the Danes but by the helpe of Fredericke the second it freed it selfe from the Danes in the yeere 1226 and after by fauour of the Emperours obtained freedome and absolute power Both Lubecke and Hamburg are said of old to haue acknowledged the Kings of Denmarke but at last expelling the Kings Proctors they became free and submitted themselues to the defence of the Empire For which cause to this day they warily obserue the actions of the Kings of Denmarke and liue in feare and suspition of their attempts and howsoeuer they haue freedome and absolute power yet they are carefull to haue the fauour of the Kings of Denmarke because they haue power to hinder their trafficke in the Baltike Sea yet sometimes leagued with the neighbour cities which in the common cause of freedome are easily drawne to giue mutuall aide they haue made warres against the Kings of Denmarke with good successe Lubecke is commended for iust gouernment not to speake of their hospitality very faire and vniforme buildings and the very pleasant seate of the Towne It is gouerned by the ciuill Law and by statutes made by the Senate as also some made by the consent of the confederate cities No appeale to Vniuersities or to the Chamber of the Empire is admitted except the cause be aboue the value of fiue hundred dollers They lately made sumptuary Lawes restraining the number of guests and dishes in Feasts with penalties according to the excesse The Citizens yeerely chuse twenty new Senators and this ãâã chuseth of their number foure Consuls with a Iudge skilfull in the ciuill Lawes These Magistrates define all ciuill and criminal causes the whole Senate first examining them and iudgements are giuen by common consent with the doores shut but when any capitall iudgement is to be executed at the day appointed to the Malefactor and the very houre he is to die the hangman pronounceth the sentence in the market place The consuls take the highest place by turnes one in the morning the other in the afternoone at which times they also by turnes heare Ambassadours and receiue complaints Many Offices are deuided among the Senators two gather the rents others haue care of the wines which are sold in a publike house to publike vse no priuate man being allowed to make that gaine others ouersee the buildings that they be vniforme and strongly built and free from danger of fier and likewise the fortifications of the City Foure Serieants attired in red gownes attend the Senate and summon men to appeare besides twelue inferiour Serieants and they neither carry Sword nor any Mace before the Magistrates but follow them in the streetes like Seruants They doe not imprison any debtor or light offender but onely summon such to appeare before the Magistrate and declare to them the fines imposed for not appearing but they apprehend capitall offenders and preuent their escape by flight It is not lawfull for a creditor to put his debtor in prison but after a set time and with cautions prescribed in the Law of Saxony wherein notwithstanding they of Lubecke so fauour strangers as they onely haue right in this kind with expedition and haue a proper tribunall or seate of iudgement for themselues onely yet herein they seeme not fauourable to strangers in that they permit them not to dwell in the City otherwise they doe as the common vse is to keepe all commodities in the hands of Citizens not to be sold to strangers but by a Citizen especially since without the helpe of strangers they haue their owne ships to bring in and carry out all commodities Hamburg is in like sort gouerned but I cannot so much commend them for hospitality being rude to all strangers and malicious to Englishmen aboue others for no other cause then for that our Merchants leauing that City seated themselues at Stoade so as it was not safe for any stranger much lesse for an Englishman to walke abroade after dinner when the common people are generally heated with drinke And the very Iustice was herein commonly taxed not that they punished whoredom which no good man will disallow but that they permitted whores in great multitudes and yet fauoured the knauery of the Sergeants who combining with the whores intrapped men in their houses so as not onely the whores Sergeants made profit thereby but the very Magistrates were iustly suspected to approue this course for their owne gaine Brunswick an Imperiall City worthily to be numbred among the cheefe so called as the Village of Bruno is not farre distant from Hamburg and seated in the center of Saxony was of old as they say the Metropolitan City therof It consists of fiue Cities gathered into one wherof each hath his seuerall priuiledges and they are thus seated Alstatt is the part on the West side Newstatt on the North side Imsacke the part towards the East Imhagen Altweg built first of all the rest are the part towards the South And howsoeuer all these haue each their seueral Senators and priuiledges yet all of them iointly making the city of Brunswick liue vnder one common Law and gouernmeÌt the Senators of each by yerely courses gouerning the whole body of that common-wealth For howsoeuer tenn Consuls be yeerly chosen two of each City yet to the two Consuls of that City which by course is to gouern for the yeere the other eight as inferiour and much more all the Senators of the fiue Cities yeelde for the time great reuerence in the Senate and all meetings and great obedience in all things commanded One Senate house is common to all the fiue Cities yet each of them hath also a priuate Senate-house The forme of the publike gouernement is Democraticall or popular They liue in such feare of the Duke of Brunswick left he should take away their liberty as they haue not onely fortified the Towne very strongly against assaults or sieges but also willingly imploy their Citizens in forraigne warres as hired souldiers insomuch as no man is made free who hath not first serued one or two yeeres in the warres The Dukes of Brunswick of Luneburg deriue their pedegree from one root namely from the old family of the Dukes of Bauaria for Henrie called the Lion D. of Bauaria who was Duke and Elector of Saxony also commanding a most ample Territory being proscribed by the Emperour and for a time liuing as a banished man in England the Dukedome of Bauaria was by the Emperour giuen in Fee to the Palatines of the Rheine and so passed to a new Family This Henrie the Lion died in Brunswick about the yeere 1195. His eldest sonne Otho the fourth being
first found in the yeere 1180 yeelding to this day rich veines of siluer There bee other Mines of siluer neere these since that time discouered namely at Schaneberg found in the yeere 1470 at Anneberg found 1510 in Ioachimus valley found 1526. For this Elector of Saxony hath many Mines of siluer which lest any should thinke to belong of right to the Emperour it must bee obserued that the Princes Electors haue Regall power vnder the Emperour granted by priuiledge in the Lawes of the golden Bulla by which they haue right to all Mines found in their owne Territories After I had seene the Elector Christianus his funerall at Eriburg the ceremonies wherof shall bee described in the proper place I returned to Dresden in a Coach hyred as aboue said so from Dresden to Misen but from Misen I returned not to Torge but tooke another way to Leipzig being tenne miles which we went in one day foure miles to Owsen three to Wortson where wee dined and thence three miles to Leipzig all through plaine and fruitfull corne fields I spent this winter at Leipzig that I might there learne to speake the Dutch toung the Grammer wherof I had read at Witteberg because the Misen speech was held the purest of all other parts in Germany Heere each Student vseth to bay for his diet a Gulden weekly besides beere for which euery man paies according to his drinking some lesse some more most beyond measure For the Citizens haue no beere in their houses but one kind which is very small and buy the better kindes as that of Torge which the richer sort vsually drinke from a publike house where it is sold by small measures to the profit of the Senate Besides the Schollers pay seuerally for their bed and chamber My selfe lodged with a rich Citizen and for diet bed and chamber paied weekly a Doller and a halfe CHAP. II. Of my iourney from Leipzig to Prage in Bohemia to Nurnberg Augspurg Ulm Lyndaw Costnetz in Germany Scaphusen Zurech Baden and Bazell in Sweitzerland BEing to take my iourney to Prage in the end of the yeere 1591 after the English account who begin the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I returned againe to Dresden from whence I wrote this Letter concerning my iourney to a friend lying at Leipzig Honest M. Know that after I parted from you at Torg by good hap and beside my expectation I light vpon a Coach going to Dresden with which good hap while I was affected and hasted to hire a place therein I had forgot to pay for my Coach for the day before But when we were ready to go remembring my errour and intreating my consorts to stay a while for mee I ranne backe to the Inne as speedily as the Parasite Curculio in Plautus and finding not the Coachman there I gaue the money to the seruant of the house before witnesses and so returned to the Coach all sweating with hast There I found that dunghill rascall the Coachman hauing my gowne on his backe I laid hold of the garment as if I knew it and hee held it as fast as a pledge for his money I being inraged that hee should vse me so when I had dealt honestly with him drew my sword and making knowne that I had paid the money bad him lay downe the gowne vpon his perill I had almost drawne a rabble of Coachmen on my back but they forbore me in this heat for you know they are not apt to quarrell in the morning but if I had thus prouoked them in the afternoone being warmed with drinke sure they would haue run vpon me though they had been naked Will you know the companions of my iourney I was alone among a Coach full of women and those of the Electors Dutchesse Chamber for sooth which you would haue said to haue been of the blacke guard It was a Comedy for me to heare their discourse now declaiming against Caluenists now brawling together now mutually with teares bewailing their hard fortunes and they fel into al these changes while the winde blew from one and the same quarter Is anything lighter then a woman and lest the flocke of geese should want matter sometimes they charged me to be a Caluenist sometimes a Iew I answered merrily that if any of them were but a Consuls wife I would satisfie them for my religion At eight a clocke in the night the horses being spent my selfe wearied and only their tongues vntired wee came to a Village called Derwaldhan where wee should lodge We entered a kind of Barne my selfe not without sighs Lipsius should here haue had no cause to complaine of stinking beere browne bread and often shaking hands No man returned salutation to vs the women my companions drew out victuals they had brought to eat I being fasting to that houre with great feare and trembling of heart expected that at least they would giue me some raw bacon or dried puddings But they thought nothing lesse At last I desired an egge or two for my supper The seruant answered that the old woman was in bed and that he knew not the mystery whether any eggs were in the house or no. If the Comicall Poets Saturio had been here he would haue fallen into a sound To be brief the women took compassion on me and I without blushing was content to eat of free cost and made them know that I was no Iew for I made no religion to eat what was before mee The next morning before the day-starre arose I was walking in a meadow what doe you blesse your selfe with a crosse Sure I am no lesse sleepy then I was but he is soone apparelled that hath a dogs bed in straw yet this straw was cleane which is no small fauour and when I gaue the seruant a Misen groshe for his paines he was astonished as if he had neuer seene a whole groshe before so as he forgot to thanke me onely shewing it to the standers by as if I had deserued another burthen of fresh straw The Women Virgins Men and Maids seruants all of vs lay in one roome and my selfe was lodged furthest from the stoue which they did not for any fauour though contrary to their opinion I was glad of it delighting more in sweet aire then the smoke of a dunghill My companions laughed at me for babling dutch in my sleep surely reason coÌmanding me waking had not power ouer me in sleep to hinder me from reuoluing the pleasant passages of the day past On Saterday the same day I came to Dresden froÌ whence fiue passengers were newly gon for Prage in a Coach but after three daies expectation I haue found new consorts to morrow being Wednesday and the eight of March I begin my iourney to Bohemia While I dispaired of consorts I was determined to goe in a boat'vpon the Elue and had now bought cleane straw in which I meant to triumph alone when by good hap turning from the riuer to the
forraine yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat all my consorts being Dutch-men The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey foure miles to Amberg through fruitfull Hils of corne and some few Woods and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue being seated in the vpper Palatinate After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg two miles to Hous-coate a Village where each man paid six Batzen for his supper The sixt day we went three miles passing by Erspruck a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers and many villages belonging to diuets Lords and a fort in the mid way called Schwang belonging to seuenty two Lords and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres The first and greater part of the way was through fruitfull Hils of corne the rest through sandy pastures and a Wood of a miles length Wee dined at a poore Village each man for six Batzen After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg through sandy corne fields and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens whether they vse to come out of the City sometimes to recreate themselues The Wood which we passed in the morning lay on our left hand towards the South as wee entred the Citie on the east side and not farre from the City turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South The City of Nurnberg seated in a barren sandy ground yet is very rich by the Citizens industry For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey either because hauing enough for food they are giuen to idlenesse or because abundance makes them prodigall so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes and cunning Art draw the riches of all Countries to them The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie but is not Nauigable nor beareth any the least boats This Riuer runnes from the East where wee entred the Towne towards the gate Lauff-thore and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South where diuiding into two beds it entreth the City and comming out againe at the West washeth the Citie walles On the East side the Margraues of Brandeburg besieged the City at the command of Charles the fifth therefore on this and the South side besides a dry ditch and two stone walles compassing the whole City diuers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall On all sides as you come vp to the City the earth riseth and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe Vpon the walles there be many Towers distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile Among the said Towers three are stronger then the rest and furnished with Artillery The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore The second is on the South side vnder the gate Fraw-thore and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore There is a Castle called Burk which by Nero the Emperour was of his name called Noricum Castrum It is certaine that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great and the City being of it selfe not ancient is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore so called of him that caused it to be built where is a pleasant walke thicke shadowed with trees where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure The City is absolute of it selfe being one of the free Cities of the Empire and mee thinks the chief or at least second to Augsburg surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City but it must be preferred for the building whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high I speake of the whole City of Augsburg for one street thereof is most beautifull and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes of which kind Nurnberg hath none The Tower which I said was of old called Noricum Castrum hangs ouer the City which being seated in a plaine hath no mounts neere it and is of a round forme The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower as it were vnder the shield of Aiax and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne and is opened to no man without consent of the Senate which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery with great store of all Munitions The City hath also a Granary which is so large as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein It hath teri Churches whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching and in one of them lies buried Zebalemus-King of Denmarke who first conuerted the City to Christian Religion Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine so called of the beauty and magnificence and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes Neere the Church called Frawenkirk is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer and compassed with an iron grate It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch or a candle and lanthorne In the Innes they giue no beere at the table but diuers kinds of wine and a large diet if not delicate for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale and besides for his chamber or lodging which he may haue priuate to himselfe three creitzers by the day In the Almes-houses out of gifts by the last testament of those that die they maintaine great numbers of poore people and in one of them twelue old men apart and in another twelue old men and as many old weomen Whilst I liued at Prage and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face as I lay in bed I dreamed that a shadow passing by told me that my father was dead at which awaking all in a sweat and affected with this dreame I rose and wrote the day and houre and all circumstances thereof in a paper booke which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel and sent it from Prage to Stode thence to be conuaied into England And now being at Nurnberg a Merchant of a noble family well acquainted with me and my friends arriued there who told me that my Father died some two moneths past I list not
armes diuide the City and the Suburbs on that side are more strongly fortified then other where The City ioyned with the Suburbs is of a round forme and in the Suburbs on this side the Fugares haue built many houses to be let for a gulden yeerely to the poore that are Papists On the North side the wals are higher built and the ditches are deepe filled with water and there be foure other gates this side of the City lying lowest the fields without are as I said all drowned with water Here each man paid for each meale six or seuen Batzen I paid for two meales and my horse meat twenty three Batzen This City hath a very faire conduit called the Stately Workmanship vulgarly Statlich Kunst and the fountaine of the water is ten miles from the City There be ten very faire Churches In the Cathedrall Church it is written in golden letters that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried there Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying in the garden whilst his Disciples slept and vpon a very faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of Colen so they call the Wise Men of the East and these carried about by a circle of iron worship Christ when the Clocke strikes In the Senate House where the imperiall Parliaments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen haue often beene held I found nothing to answere the magnificence of this City onely on the gates this is written Wise men build vpon the Rocke Fooles vpon the Sand for I said this part of the City on the West side was built vpon a stony hill In the Iesuites Church the Altar is of siluer gilded ouer and another Altar of Christs Natiuity is curiously painted like the barks of trees Augsburg called of the Vandals for distinction from Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzerland is diuided from the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus and being of old a City of Rhetia now is reckoned the metropolitane City of Suenia vulgarly Schwaben is said said to haue beene built by the sonne of Iaphet sixe hundred yeeres before Rome was builded Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres and now vpon the same day they haue a Faire and for the fruitfulnesse of the soyle the City giues a sheaue of corne for their Armes This City was vtterly destroyed by Attila King of the Hunnes and when he was dead was rebuilt againe It is a free Citie of the Empire which are vulgarly called Retchs-statt and as other free Cities it is gouerned by Senators There bee many Almes houses for the poore and one wherein foure hundreth are nourished by rents of land and houses giuen to that house of old by good men The Citie is seated vpon the Northern mouth of the Alpes in a fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures and Hils full of game for hunting and it may bee gathered how populous it is by that a German Author writes that in a yeere when no plague raigned 1705 were baptized and 1227 buried Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg to goe from Auspurge to the West parts of Germany and so into the Low-countries yet I wil remember the Reader that he shall finde the iourney from Augspurg to Venice described in my voyage from Stode to Venice and thence to Hierusalem From Augspurg I rode to Vlme and thence to Lindawe and all the way hired my horse for sixe or seuen Batzen a day paying for the daies in which my horse returned and hyring footmen to bring them backe and bearing their charges The first day I rode foure miles thorow the territory of the Fugars and the Bishop of Tilleng and one mile in the territory of the Arch-Duke of Austria of the house of Inspruch in a mountainous Countrey full of Woods of Iuniper Ashes Oakes and Beaches to Burg where each man paid for his dinner and horsemeat eight Batzen In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Vlme through a fruitfull plaine of corne Entring the City we passed by a Bridge the Riuer Danow which though running in a plaine yet hath a most violent course so as boats carried downe the streame vse to be sold at the place wherethey land it being very difficult to bring them backe again yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes drawne backe by the force of horses My selfe haue seene tenne horses drawing one Barke but they vse a greater number according to occasion some thirty or more as they report and he that rides on the horse neerest the Barke is called Wage-halse that is Necke venturer because hce and the horse are often drawn vnder the water till the other horses draw them out again This Riuer hath foure great water fals vvhereof the greatest is at Struddle eighteene miles from Vienna vvhich is hardly to be passed except it be in a floud And the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats by reason of the violent streame and especially because the Marriners are many times drunken or negligent They vse for a charme to sprinkle their drawing horses with water and vse with continuall loud cries to make them draw This Nauigation is very necessary that the lower Oestreich being fertill may supply the vpper being barren with wine and corne Munster writeth of two fals of this Riuer one below Lintz where the waters make a terrible noyse beating vpon the rocky bed the other at Gryn vvhere the water makes a dangerous whirle-poole of vnsearchable depth Vlme is seated in Schwaben or Sueuia as Augspurge is and hath his name of Elme trees Charles the Great built a Monastery in this Village which in time grew to a City and vnder the Emperour Fredrick the third bought their freedome of the Monkes The building thereof is of wood and clay The order of Knights called in Latine Teutonicus was in old time of great power and hath yet a house in this Citie It hath one stately Church in the Yard whereof the Mount Oliuet is curiously ingrauen It hath a faire Senate house and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and all Munitions as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest City in Germany The writing Tables made in this City are famous for their goodnesse and are thence carried into forraine parts The diet of the Innes of this City seated in a most fertill soyle is very plentifull both in meats and banquets where each man paied for his dinner seuen Batzen In this Country they drinke nothing but wine as they doe in all vpper Germany but it is sharpe and the Masse or measure is sold for three Batzen When wee were at dinner a Tumbler came in and being admitted to shew his cunning hee stood vpon his head and dranke a measure of wine which seemed strange to the beholders After dinner we rode a mile in a pleasant valley vpon the Danow which wee passed and rode two miles further in the like fertill plaine which is very large and by all men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof And so wee
to your Dutch Nation Now as soone as I had pitched my tents at Bazell for me thinkes I am one of the Nomades euery day changing my dwelling I thought fit to giue you account of my iourney whereof I am sure you desire to know the successe I will euer be ruled in doubtfull cases by the counsell of so wise and so good a friend as your selfe but you shall neuer more perswade me to take a iourney on foot which I find vnprofitable for my health purse The other day after dinner by your aduice I took my iourney on foot with more sighes then paces came in foure houres with much paine to the little City Eglisaw and comming to the Inne they offered me meat but I did nothing but so crie out for my bed as you would haue said I was the eldest sonne of sloth To be briefe they being slow to satisfie my desire I flung my selfe on the fether bed without sheetes and so at ease supped on the old fashion with the cloth spread on the bed you gaue me a pleasant companion to guide me the way who made it seeme shorter with his good discourse and was very diligent to serue my occasions next morning early by twilight we began our iourney hauing the gates opened for a little reward You may thinke that I was fresh after my nights rest for a new iourney but I rose early onely to be out of my paine By nine of the clocke in the morning we came to the faire City Zurech which seemed fairer to me at the end of my tedious walke presently I ran into my chamber and with like importunity as before obtained my bed to be made the Mercury you gaue to guide me brought me meat plentifully and there we dined together then because he was to returne to Schafhusen that night I gaue him a Gulden for his paines besides paying his charges and fifteene Creitzers of free gift Each of vs went to our taske he as I thought to goe I to sleepe Since I haue begun I will tell you Historically all circumstances so you promise me not to reproue him but rather to salute and thanke him in my name which if you refuse I coniure you on all loue to read no further After foure houres behold this honest man with a garland of roses on his head a glasse and pot in his hands and well armed with drinke entered my chamber I being halfe asleepe wiped my eies as if I had seene a vision till he drinking to me and importuning me to pledge him made mee know it was no apparition we drunke a whole houre together then in good earnest he went away and did nothing to my knowledge more wisely then that being drunken he left his reckoning of forty eight Creitzers to be paid by me who was sober Neither Ceres nor Bacchia could for twenty houres draw me from bed but the next morning I deliuered your betters to Master Doctor S. who vsed me very curteously and presented mee with a Booke he had lately printed So this Comedy is ended onely I will adde the Epilogue Here at Bazell I can get for no money the Booke of Semlerus de Repub. Heluetica which you commended vnto me at last I found it in a friends study who esteemed it as the apple of his eye yet I so preuailed with him as he let me haue it vpon my faithfull promise that because I meant to blot the same with notes I should procure him a new Booke wherein if you doe not disingage mee by sending the same vnto me I shall forfet the small credit of a stranger Farewell good Sir and I pray you let vs not suffer this sparke of our loue to goe out but rather with often writing let vs set all the coale on fire Againe farewell from Bazell the 24. day of May 1902. From Schafhusen I tooke my iourney on foot as is aboue written and went halfe a mile in the territory of that City and a mile and a halfe in the territory of the Count of ãâã Sweitzer the lands of Zurech lying on the South side from vs and so wee passed through Mountaines yeelding corne and planted with vines and through woods pastures and a large valley of corne and in foure houres space for the miles of Sweitzerland are so long as they reckon the iourneies of horse or foot by the houres and not by the miles came to Eglisaw and entering the same passed the Riuer Rheine by a Bridge where I paide two creitzers for tribute and there I supped for fiue Batzen The next morning I went two miles on foot in six houres space to Zurech through a long wood and hils of corne which they say are often blasted with haile and through wooddy Mountaines and hils of inclosed pastures with store of Vines planted neere the City which is one of the Cantons of Sweitzerland hauing on the West side the Lake called Zurechsea and the Brooke Limachus hauing his head eight miles further on the same side ruuneth into this lake and after comming out diuideth the City into two parts called the greater and the lesse City hauing three bridges for passage the greater where of the Merchants vse for their meetings The foresaid Lake is three miles long and hath on each side pleasant hils planted with Vines The foresaid Brooke neere the City beareth onely small boates and is all taken vp with water mils but aboue towards the Alpes is deeper and below neere Baden runneth into the Rheine The streetes of Zurech are narrow and the Houses builded of timber and clay and the City it selfe is seated vpon and betweene hils which on the East side of the Brooke grow higher from it On the North-west side is a pleasant Mountaine and a faire meadow for shooting with gunnes and other exercises wherein is a faire Lynden or teyle tree yeelding large and sweet shadow where the Citizens meete to recreate themselues and to feast together The Armes of the City are a Man and Woman called Falix Regula without the City on the South is the foresaid Lake and beyond it the Alpes couered with snow On the West side is a plaine and the Mountaines farre off but on the North and East sides the Mountaines lie neere The Citizens haue a custome that when they goe forth against the enemy they place the Ministers or Pastors in the front or where they may partake the danger and there is a place two miles from the City towards Lucerna where Zwinglius a famous Preacher and reformer of Religion was killed in the field Here I paid each meale six batzen I rode three miles to Baden in three houres and so hired my Horse as besides the price of six or seuen batzen the day I paid as much for the daies in which he returned and also paid the hire and charges of one to bring him backe Most part of our way was in the territory of Zurech through hils of corne and vines and a
foure miles to Bentzon hauing hils on my right hand toward the East planted with Vines and fields set with roots and vpon my left hand towards the West a faire and fruitfull plaine and here I paid seuen Batzen for my supper The second day in the morning I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgraue of Hessen to Arhelygen through wooddy mountaines planted with some Vines and a plaine for one mile sandy but the rest good pasture We passed by Dormstat where the said Landgraue holds his Court and there each man paid sixe Fenning tribute At Arheligen I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner In the afternoone I passed some three miles to Franckfort through a sandy plaine and a wood of Oakes and Beeches and by the way they shewed vs a strange leape of a Stagge which being chased did leape ouer a cart if you may beleeue them loaded with hey Franckfort is a free City of the Empire famous for the Electors meeting there to choose the Emperour and for two yeerely Faires as also for many Parliaments of the Empire held there and it is called Franckfort vpon the Maene to distinguish it from another City of the same name built vpon the Brooke Odera and named thereof For the Riuer Maene running from the East to the West diuideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons House vulgarly Sachsen-hausse and betweene them is a bridge of stone vpon foure narrow Arches Both the Cities are gouerned by the same Senate and Law and haue the fame name either of Francus rebuilding it or of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French The City is compassed strongly with a double wall and vpon the East side is the gate Heilegthore where is the Iewes street who are permiteed to dwell in this famous Mart-towne and sucke the blood of Christians by extortion There is another gate called Freydigthore On the North side of the City is the gate Brickenport and a large place for an Horse Faire On the West side is the gate of strangers vulgarly Welsh-thore so called because the French enter that way it is very strong and without the gate there is a very pleasant walke vpon the banke of Maene among Vineyards and Meadowes with sweet Groues On the South side the Maene runneth by diuiding as I said the new City from the old In the new or lesse City called the Saxons-house is a house of old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights which by old priuiledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts and manslaiers so they be not wilful and malicious murtherers but they enioy this priuiledge onely for foureteene daies so as when the time is neere out or vpon any opportunity during the time they vse to steale out and returning after an houre begin a new to reckon againe the foureteene daies A little before my comming thither a certaine bankrupt of Colen entered the same for a debt of twenty thousand Guldens On this side some ground without the wals belongs to the City but on other sides it hath almost no Land without the wals The City is of a round forme seated in a large plaine the streetes are narrow and the houses built of timber and clay the foundations of some being of stone In the Innes they aske seuen or eight batzen a meale but Merchants and many strangers vse to hire a chamber and buy their meat of the Cookes From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a Coach for fifty Dollers and besides were to pay for the coach-mans diet for here first the coach-man conditioned to be free from paying his diet vulgarly Maulfrey that is free for the mouth whereas in other parts our coach-men paid for themselues Alwaies vnderstand that at the times of the faires Coaches are set dearer then any time els The first day after breakfast wee went three miles to Freideburge through corne fields set with cabages and rootes and by the way we passed a Village belonging to the Count of Hanaw Freideburge is a free City of the Empire and the buildings are of timber and clay here each man paid seuen batzen for his supper and for his part of the coach-mans supper The second day in the morning we went three miles to Geysen through fruitfull hils of corne Phillip Landgraue of Hessen left three sonnes William of Cassiles whom Maurice his sonne succeeded and was now liuing and Lodwicke of Marpurg and George of Dormstat This territory belonged to the Landgraue Lodwicke for all the brothers in Germany haue the same stile of honour and he was also at that time Lord of this City Geysell which is fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the building is base of timber and clay and for the most of meere dirt These verses were written vpon the gate of the City Captus erat Princeps non marte sed Arte Philippus Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus Nominis hoc patrij Lodouicus amore refecit Anno bis septem lustra sequente none Principe dignus honos patrias surcire ruinas A quibus Hassiacos Cbriste tuere polos Prince Phillip captiu'de not by warre but Art This worke of strength was then demolished In Countries loue Prince Lodwicke for his part Rebuilt it seuenty nine yeeres finished Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land Here I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner and my part for the Coach-man In the afternoone we went three miles through high stony mountaines and woods of oakes to Kirnham belonging to the Landgraue Lodwick whose Court at Marpurg lies a mile from thence All of vs at supper drunke sixe measures of wine besides beere and from henceforth wee paid seuerally for meat and drinke and at this time each of vs paid ten Weissenfenning for both together The third day we passed three miles to Drest through high mountaines with woods of Oake and many fruitfull valleies of corne and each man paid with his portion for the Coach-man foure Weissenfenning for meat and as much for wine This territory belongs to Landgraue Maurice of Cassiles After dinner we passed three miles to Fester through high mountaines full of oake woods and entered the City seated vpon a mountaine by a bridge of stone vpon which side great store of water fals from the mountaines the houses were of timber and clay each one for the most part hauing a dunghill at the doore more like a poore Village then a City but such are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen the houses of Villages being of meere dirt and thatched Here each man paid for his meat and old wine and his part for the Coach-man an Orts Doller or fourth part of a Doller The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles a City where the Landgraue Maurice holds his Court all our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne The City is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches but the houses are basely
built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower
sea for feare of the abouesaid dangers had sent me by land with command to stay for him at Leyden To bee briefe I went to your mothers house where a seruant opened mee the doore to whom I gaue your Letters but when he scarce looking at me would haue locked the doore I took my Letters againe saying I had promised to deliuer them with my owne hand and so I entred with him and gaue them into the hands of your mother and sister who inquired much after you and so much after my master as I might perceiue you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters They entertained me with much curtesie being thus disguised for my owne seruant and when I went away your mother would needs giue mee six batzen to spend neither would any refusall preuaile but I must needs take them So I set a marke vpon these peeces left I should spend them and am not out of hope ere I die to shew them to you To the purpose at the dore I met your brother whom I had seene at Frankfort and was not a little afraide left for all my disguising he would haue knowne me Let it not trouble you that I tell you another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme Disguised as I was I went to the house of Doctor Penzelius desiring to haue the name of so famous a Diuine written in my stemme-booke with his Mott after the Dutch fashion Hee seeing my poore habite and a booke vnder my arme tooke me for some begging Scholler and spake sharpely vnto me But when in my masters name I had respectiuely saluted him and told him my request he excused his mistaking and with all curtesie performed my desire I will trouble you no longer but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you tell you all the other passages of my iourney In the meane time I go forward to Leyden in Holland you as you do euer loue me and as my soule liue and farewell From Emden the twenty one of October 1592. I paied twenty foure Stiuers for my passage eleuen miles in a waggon from Stode to Breme And the first day after breakefast wee passed three miles to Ford a poore Citie subiect to the Bishop of Breme through wilde fenny and woody grounds The Towne is seated in a Fenne hauing a long paued Causey to passe vnto it and the gate being opened to vs by night each man gaue the Porter two Lubeck shillings and by the way in a village ' each man paied six Fenning for his person At Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle strongly fortified with Rampiers of earth and deepe ditches full of water and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck shillings and a halfe The waggoner taking me thus disguised as formerly I haue said for a poore Bawre said these words to me in Dutch Du knecht hilff zu tragen die packe hye that is Ho good fellow helpe here to carry this pack I answered ya gar gern yea most willingly and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen and groned deepely but helped him very little Next morning early by Moone light we passed on three miles through large and wilde woods to a Countrey house and by the way my companions fell in talke of English affaires so foolishly as my laughter though restrained had often betraied me if twi-light had not kept mee from being seene Their ignorance greatly shortned my way with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some such questions propounded by me whereof my selfe had many times beene forced to giue an account to others By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig of certaine false witnesses of old sinking there into the ground At this Countrey house each man paied for his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halfe Then from sixe of the clocke in the morning till nine we passed fiue miles to Breme through an Heath and many huge Woods of Oake hauing towards the South a Fenne of tenne miles length which of the vastnesse and wildenesse is called the Diuels Fenne By the way within a mile of Breme each man paied halfe a Sesling tribute to the officers of the City and from thence wee passed a winding paued Causey to the very City Men may also passe from Hamburg to Breme by water This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities and of them which vpon this Sea-coast are called Hans-steten for freedome of trafficke and it is very strongly fortified with high walles of earth and deepe ditches filled with water besides that the Citizens may drowne the Fenny fields almost round about at pleasure The building of this as also of the neighbour Cities is partly of bricke partly of stone and very faire but the streets heere are filthy The Citie is fiue miles distant from the sea And the riuer Visurgis running from the South east to the North VVest by the South west side of the City runneth al the length of the same On the North east side the walles of earth are broad and there bee three faire gates with strong Rampiers Vpon the South West side being compassed all with Fennes there bee no walles In the furthest angle or corner towards the North west where the City growes narrow there is a strong Fort built the gate is within an Iland beyond which lies a plaine of faire pastures Osen-bridge lies not farre hence from which towne great quantity of narrow linnen cloth is brought into England At Breme I paied halfe a Doller for dinner supper and breakfast and a stiebkin or measure of wine extraordinary They had heere also the custome of making strangers free and the same ceremony of giuing salt to sweare by and I confessing that I was not free committed my fine to their censure hoping they would deale better with mee for my poore disguised habit but it saued me nothing the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch Gutt gesell du must gedult haben es geit gleich bistu knecht oder here deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich That is good fellow thou must haue patience it is all one whether thou beest a seruant or a master this custome toucheth both alike After dinner taking my iourney from Breme wee passed a mile vpon a stony Causey called Steinweck that is stony way and there each man paied to the officers of Breme a quarter of a Stiuer Then entering the Territory of the Graue that is Count of Oldenburg we passed a mile through faire pastures compassed with ditches of water to a village where each man paid a Sesling to the Count and to this place each man paid for his Waggon fiue groates Here when my companions had drunke their fill and had slept a while in the straw as my selfe did vpon a bench to shun the stinking heat of the stoue we hyred another waggon for three miles paying fifteene groats and that we might more securely passe wee tooke our iourney
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
water out of England they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts Hence I went to Sluse so called of the damme to let waters in and out and came thither in two houres paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers which I hired alone for if I had light vpon company we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase where it falleth into the sea and came to Brill my selfe and two others paying twelue stiuers for our passage but the barke being presently to returne and therefore not entring the Port set vs on land neere the Towne whether we walked on foot Brill is a fortified Towne laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth for money she lent the States and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes The Towne is seated in an Iland which was said to bee absolute of it selfe neither belonging to Zealand nor Holland On the North side the Riuer Mase runneth by On the East side are corne fieldes and the Riuer somewhat more distant On the South side are corne fields On the West side are corne fields and the maine Sea little distant Here I paied for my supper and dinner twenty stiuers and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland and paied for my passage three stiuers In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam lies the City Arseldipig and another called Delphs-Ile being the Hauen of Delph which was then a pleasant Village but growing to a City and hauing beene lately burnt by fire was fairely rebuilded Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West The Hauen is on the South side being then full of great ships vpon which side it lay open without walles hauing many faire houses and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water Neither is it fortified on the sides towards the land nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege hauing low walles on the North and East sides yet compassed with broad ditches The street Hoch-street is faire and large extending it selfe all the length of the Citie and lying so as from the gate at the one end you may see the gate at the other end and in this street is the Senate house In the market place toward the West is the statua of Erasmus being made of wood for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone and the inscription thereof witnesseth that hee was borne at Roterodame the twenty eight of October in the yeere 1467 and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time and vpon the vvall thereof these Verses are written AEdibus his natus mundum decorauit Erasmus Artibus ingenuis Religione side The world Erasmus in this poore house borne With Arts Religion Faith did much adorne The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land Heere I lodged at an English-mans house and paied for my supper tenne stiuers for my breakfast two stiuers and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers by which expence compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes it is apparant that strangers in their reckonings pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort in two houres space to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon as farre as Helmund but then we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea for the City is seated in an Iland hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland in a great floud The forme of the City resembles a Galley the length whereof lies from the East to the West Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea where there be two gates but of no strength On the East side is the New gate Reydike and beyond a narrow water lye fenny grounds On the South side the ditch is more narrow yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place On this side is the gate Spey-port and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds On the West side is the gate Feld-port and a like walke vpon walles of stone and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea There is a great Church built of bricke and couered with slate being stately built vvith Arched cloysters and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat towards the South lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece Crosse-bow and there by is a very pleasant groue vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent which we call Hearnes vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle and their feathers being of great price there is a great penalty set on them that shall hurt or annoy those birds There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift and another house for coyning of money for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg Betweene the faire streets Reydike-strat and Wein-strat is the Hauen for ships to be passed ouer by bridges and there is a market place and the Senate house vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets The houses are higher built then other where in Holland and seeme to be of greater Antiquity This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities so as no imposition being here paied for the same the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers for which in other places they pay eighteene or twenty stiuers For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe besieging Getrudenberg and came thither in two houres space but the vvindes being very tempestuous wee saw a boat drowned before vs out of which one man onely escaped by swimming who seemed to me most wretched in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant and the County of Buren being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange by right of his wife and in this Month of Iune it was yeelded to Count Maurice the Spanish Army lying neere but not being able to succour it The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant was of old firme land ioined to the continent till many villages by diuers floods and seuenteene
space arme one hundred gallies against Emanuel Emperour of the East and no doubt their strength hath euery day growne greater to this time In the said compasse of the Armory lies a great boat called Il Bucentoro because it carries about the number of two hundred which boat hath vpon it a kinde of chamber which vseth to be richly hung and couered ouer when in the same the Duke and Senators be carried by water at some times of solemnity especially at the feast of the Ascention when of an old custome they goe forth to espouse the sea by the ceremony of flinging a ring into the same and to challenge the command thereof giuen them by Pope Alexander the third The Iewes haue a place to dwell in seuerally called Il Ghetto where each family hath a little house and all haue one court-yard common so as they liue as it were in a Colledge or Almes-house and may not come forth after the gates are locked at night and in the day they are bound to weare a yellow cap. Though the City bee seated vpon little and narrow Ilands in the middest of marshes and tides of the sea yet hath it gardens in great number and abounding with rare herbes plants and fruits and water conduits which with thecarued Images and pictures out of the Gentlemens curtesie may bee seene by any curious stranger The publike Libraries of speciall note are these Di S Giouanni Paolo di San ' Francesco di San ' Stefano di San ' Georgio Maggiore and di Sant ' Antonio Also priuate Libraries may be found out by those that be curious and will bee after the same manner easily shewed them and are indeede most worthy to bee sought out for the rarenesse of many instruments pictures carued Images Antiquities and like rare things For the Venetians being most sparing in diet and apparell doe exercise their magnisicence in these and the like delights and these precious Monuments they will with great curtesie shew to any strangers or to any louing antiquities which my self-found by experience more-specially at the hands of Sigr. Nicolao vendramini a Gentleman dwelling in the Iland Giue decca who most curteously shewed mee and my friends though being altogether vnknowne to him some rare clockes admirable carued Images and a paire of Organs hauing strange varieties of sounds The Pallaces of Gentlemen were called houses but are and worthily deserue to be called Pallaces some hundred of them being fit to receiue Princes For howsoeuer this Common-wealth at the first founding was tied by many lawes to mediocrity and the equality among the Citizens yet pride hath by degrees seised vpon the same The said Pallaces haue one doore towards the Land and another towards the water and most of them haue gardens The foundations are laid of Oake in the waters and the stone of Istria is much esteemed The flooers of the vpper roomes are not boorded but plastred with lime tempred with tiles beaten to dust The windowes are for the most part very large the greater roomes lying almost altogether open to receiue aire but the lodging chambers haue glasse windowes whereof the Venetians brag glasse being rare in Italy where the windowes are for the most part couered with linnen or paper And howsoeuer glasse be common with vs on this side the Alpes yet it is certaine that the glasse makers of Venice dwelling in the Iland Murano haue a more noble matter thereof make much better glasse then we can To conclude as I said the Venctians are most sparing in diet and apparel so not onely in the building of their houses but in the furniture thereof the general sort passeth their degree and many of the Gentlemen vse Princely magnificence These are accounted the chiefe Pallaces That belonging to the Procurators office neere the Church of Saint Anthony The old Pallace which belonged to the Templary Knights That of the family Gritti neere the bridge Della Madonna That of Alexander Gritti neere the market place of Saint Iohn Bragora That of Dandoli neere the bridge Della Paglia The Pallace neere Saint Francis Church which the Senate bought and vse to assigne it to the dwelling of the Popes Nuncio That of the Dutchesse of Florence built vpon the channell of the Dukes Pallace That of the Vetturi neere the market place of Saint Mary That of the Patriarke Grimani neere the Malipieri That of the family Georgij neere the same That of Francis Priuli That of Lodwick Georgij That of the Capelli That of Peter Giustniani That of those of Pesaro neere the Church of St. Benedict That of the Loredani neere Saint Stephens Church That of Zeni That of Contarini That of Siluester Valierij neere the Church of Saint Iob. That of the Cornari neere Saint Pauls Church That of Iames Foscarini neere the Church Carmeni That of the Michaeli neere Saint Lewis Church That of Lewis Theophili neere the Church Della Misericordia The chiefe Pallaces vpon the channell are these That of the Loredani That of the Grimani neere Saint Lucia That of Delphini That of the Cornari neere Saint Maurice Church and that of the Foscarini an old building but hauing the best prospect of all the rest In which the Venetians entertained the French King Henry the third To conclude there be two rich Pallaces in the Iland Giudecca one of the Dandoli the other of the Vendramini In this famous City are twenty thousand families and three thousand of the Gentlemen and no age hath beene so barren which hath not yeelded worthy men for Martiall and ciuill gouernment and learning Of this City haue beene three Popes Gregory the twelfth Eugenius the fourth and Paul the second and many Cardinalls of which these are the chiefe Peter Morosini Marke I andi Anthony Corari Iohn Amideus and in our age Iohn Baptist Zeni and Dominick Grimani Also Peter Bembus was a Venetian whom Pope Paul the third made Cardinall Heere was borne Pantalean Iustinianus Patriarke of Consiantinople when the French ruled there And Venice hath yeelded many most learned men Andrew Dandoli Duke Francis Barbarigi Andrew Morosini who wrote the History of his time in Heroique Verse And many famous Ciuill Lawyers Lodwicke Foscarini and Ierom Donati And many rare engrauers and painters Titiano Tenterotto and Belino And many Commanders in the warre Iohn Bolari Marino Gradinici Dominick Morosini the first prouisors of Military affaires Andrew Morosini and Simion Dandoli and many more famous in all kindes of vertue to the chiefe whereof I haue said that the Senate erected many Statuaes and Monuments Giue me leaue to adde this of the family Morosini namely that among the most famous men whose pictures were in the chamber of publike meeting before it was burnt there were the pictures of Barbaro and Marco and Autonia Morosini And that the same family hath giuen three Dukes Dominico Marino and Michaele and three Patriarkes and twelue Procurators of Saint Marke which number few families haue attained onely that of the
Contarini that of the Iustiniani and that of the Grimani haue a little passed it And that my selfe being at Venice found there eighty Gentlemen of this name Let the Reader pardon this obseruation which I make for the Confonancy of that name with my owne onely differing in the placing of a vowell for more gentle pronuntiation which the Italian speech affecteth yet these Gentlemen being of one family write their names somewhat diuersity some writing in their owne tongue Morosini others Moresini and in the Latin tongue Morocenus and Maurocenus Of the hiring of chambers and the manner of diet in Venice I haue spoken iointly with that of Paduoa in the discription of that City onely I will adde that this City aboundeth with good fish which are twice each day to be sold in two markets of Saint Marke Rialto that it spendeth weekly fiue hundred Oxen two hundred fifty Calues besides great numbers of young Goates Hens and many kinds of birds besides that it aboundeth with sea birds whereof the Venetian writers make two hundred kinds and likewise aboundeth with sauoury fruits and many salted and dried dainties and with all manner of victuals in such sort as they impart them to other Cities I will also adde that here is great concourse of all nations as well for the pleasure the City yeeldeth as for the free conuersation and especially for the commodity of trafficke That in no place is to be found in one market place such variety of apparell languages and manners That in the publike Innes a chamber may be hired for foure sols a day but for the cheapenes and good dressing of meat most men vse to hire priuate chambers and dresse their owne meat That in the Dutch Inne each man paies two lires a meale That no stranger may lie in the City more then a night without leaue of the Magistrates appointed for that purpose but the next day telling them some pretended causes of your comming to the Towne they will easily grant you leaue to stay longer and after that you shall be no more troubled how long soeuer you stay onely your Host after certaine daies giueth them account of you To conclude this most noble City as well for the situation freeing them from enemies as for the freedome of the Common-wealth preserued from the first founding and for the freedome which the Citizens and very strangers haue to inioy their goods and dispose of them and for manifold other causes is worthily called in Latine Venetia as it were Veni etiam that is come againe From Venice to Farraria are eighty fiue miles by water and land and vpon the third of February after the new stile and in the yeere 1594. as the Italians begin the yeere the first of Ianuary and vpon Wednesday in the euening my selfe with two Dutchmen my consorts in this iourney went into the Barke which weekely passeth betwixt Venice and Ferrara The same night we passed twenty fiue miles vpon the marshes within the sea banke to Chioza or Chioggia or to speake vulgarly the better to be vnderstood in asking the way a Chioza the first village on firme land or rather seated in an Iland where the Ditch Clodia maketh a Hauen The next morning in the same Barke we entred the Riuer and passed fifteene miles to the Village Lorea and after dinner ten miles in the territory of Venice and eight miles in the Dukedome of Fervaria to Popaci and vpon Friday in the morning twenty two miles to Francoline where we paid for our passage from Venice thither each man three lires and a halfe By the way on land vpon both sides the Riuer we passed a pleasant plaine and fields of come diuided by furrowes in which furrowes Elmes were planted and vpon them Vines grew vp to the tops Such is the manuring of Lombardy or the Lower part of Italy towards the West where the Vines growing high yeeld not so rich wines as in the other parts of Italy vpon mountaines and hils vpon the sides whereof the Vines supported with short stakes and growing not high yeeld much richer wines By this way our Barke staied many times in Villages where we had time to eat or to prouide victuals to be carried with vs and we had an Ingistar or measure of wine something greater then our pint for three sols of Venice we bought bread after the weight for they haue loaues of all prices in which a stranger cannot be deceiued It is the fashion to see the meat in the kitchin and to agree of the price before you eate it which if you doe not you shall be subiect to the Hosts insatiable auarice who take pleasure to deceiue strangers And the price of the meats you may vnderstand by the Italians whom you shall see buy of the same And if the decrenesse displease you you may carry drie figs and raisons and dine with them the price of bread and wine being certaine but you must sup at your Hosts Ordinary if you will haue a bed I said that we left our Barke at Francoline where we might haue hired a coach to Ferraria for which we three should haue paied twenty two bolinei but the way being pleasant to walke we chose rather to goe these fiue miles on foot Ferraria is a very strong City of Fiaminia and neere the City the Riuer Po diuiding it selfe hath made a long and broad Iland which now is growne to firme land It was compassed with walles by the Exarches of the Easterne Emperors Lords thereof and after it was subiect to the Bishops of Raucnna then it came into the hands of the Princes of the family of Este the lawfull heires whereof possessed it to the yeer 1394 when it passed to the line of Bastards These Princes of Este were at first Marquesses and afterwards were created Dukes and Hercules of Este was the third Duke who liued about the yeere 1550. At this day the family of Este being extinct the Bishop of Rome hath inuaded this Dukedome The City seated in a plaine is compassed with a fenny banke and is of a triangular forme the three corners being towards the North West and South On the South side the riuer Po did runne of old but it hath now left his bed which is dried vp to firme land But the lesse branch thereof runneth from Francoline to Chioza where it fals into the sea the greater making many lakes at Comatio yeelds the Duke much profit by the fishing of eeles In the heart of the City is a large market place and ioyning thereunto a little Iland in which the father of Hercules of Este built a stately Pallace called Belueder and in the market place before the doore of the Pallace there is a statua sitting in a chaire erected to Duke Burso and another of a horse-man and of brasse erected to Duke Nicholas The streets are broad and very dirty in winter and no lesse subiect to dust in summer The houses are
length thereof euen from Genoa to the furthest limits of the Kingdome of Naples bordering vpon he sea towards the East On the same South-side are the schooles of the Vniuersity and the monastery of Saint Michaell and the rich stately monastery of Saint Dominicke in which is the sepulcher of the said Saint curiously engrauen and of white marble and vnder a rich skreene lies the body which they superstitiously worship and they shew the place where the Saint gaue vp his last breath Their refectory or place where the Monkes eat is faire and large and the Cellars of wine and their store thereof are so great as would better become the Temple of Bacchus then a Cloyster of Monkes It hath two foure-square Court yards with arched Cloysters to walke vnder and they be pleasantly planted round about with Cedars of which they especially esteeme one planted by the hands of that Saint who likewise with his owne hand did beautifie a well of water no lesse esteemed by them Their publike Library is much esteemed for many bookes of written hand wherein they brag to haue a Bible written by the hand of Esdras The building of this monastery is very stately and it hath large galleries as well below vnder the Arches as round about in the vpperroofe Here is a monument of Hans that is Iohn sonne to the Emperour Fredericke the second they haue a place giuen by priuiledge to the Dutch for buriall The building of the City is anticke and many houses seeme to haue beene built by the Lombards The foundations of the houses are of free stone and the rest for the most part of bricke built with arched Cloysters towards the street vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine The Pallaces of Gentlemen are built towards the street stately on the inside but with little shew on the outside and they all seeme to haue beene built of old The windowes are not glased which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City as a thing to be wondered at but they are couered with paper whereof part is oyled ouer Towards the West side of the City is a large market place two forked in which is a faire conduit of water with the Images of Neptune and diuers Goddesses powring water out of their mouthes and breasts and all made of mettall In this market place is the Senate-house vulgarly called Il palazo della signoria on the one side whereof are the Courts of iudgement on the other the lodgings of the Gouernour At the very entry is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth a Citizen of Bologna which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall Church and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone erected to Pope Paul the third and another statua of a Gyant The staires of the Pallace are made winding and rising by little and little giue so easie an ascent as a horse may goe vp without difficulty the like staites be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace and at Venice in the steeple of Saint Marke and at Torge a City of Germany Within the Pallace is the statua of Iulius the second Bishop or rather the God Mars of Rome engrauen to his shoulders with aleane and longface Vpon the doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters that the Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there when the Pope put the imperiall Crowne vpon his head in the Church of Saint Petronius which Church is of the old Lombard building and this Saint is the protecting Saint of the City Neere the stately Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter is a house called the mountame of piety where poore men may borrow money freely bringing pawnes to auoid the oppression of the lewes vsury Among the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower called d' Asinelli built of bricke with foure hundred seuenty two staires which they esteeme one of the highest in Europe From this Tower without the gates all the fields are full of Pallaces and Houses At the gate of Saint Francis is a pinacle with this inscription The Sepuicher of Accursius who wrote the glosse vpon the Law Sonne to Francis H us In the territory of this City is a medicinall water found in the yeere 1375. very famous throughout all Italy of which is prouerbially said Chibene l' Acqua della Porretta O che lo spezza o che lo netta that is He that drinkes the water of Porretta either it bursts him or els it cleanseth him The strangers students here call the stately Pallace of Cardinall Caup the sinnes of the Dutch as built by the Fines imposed on them We staid in this City two daies and being three consorts hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei the day the Hostesse giuing vs linnen and dressing our meat and we paid for an Eele by the pound fiue bolinei for they sell fresh water fish by the pound for a pike the pound foure bolinei for three apples two quatrines for a pound of raisons foure bolinei for a pound of small nuts foure bolinei for an ingestar of wine a measure somewhat bigger then the English pint foure bolinei for a wax candle six bolinei It was now the time of Lent and so we were forced to eat onely fish as the Italians did In the territory of Bologna there is a place almost an Iland called Forcelli which was an Iland of old and Historians witnesse that the Triumuiri Augustus Antonius and Lepidus here diuided the world betweene them From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to Florence which way I neuer passed disposing as I thought my iourney more commodiously yet for the direction of other passengers it will not be amisse to set downe the way From Bologna to Pianore are eight miles to Lograno sixe to Scaricalasino fiue to Caurez three to Fiorenzuola twelue to Scarperia ten to the bridge Saint Piero two and to Fiorenza or Florente two miles At Bologna we chanced to light vpon post horses being to returne twenty miles to Imola and each of vs paid fiue poli for his horse By the way towards the South were pleasant hils towards the foot of the Apennine mountaines On the left hand towards the North were fields manured after the Lombard fashion before described and we passed by the Castle Saint Petro the Italians call the walled Townes which haue no Bishops seat by the name of Castles When we entered the gates of Imola according to the custome we deliuered our swords to a boy who was to carry them to our Host that he might keepe them till we went out of the Towne and here each of vs paied two reali for our supper and halfe a reale for our bed The next morning we rode ten miles to the City Faenza through a sandy way and a barren soyle yeelding some few vines growing vpon trees and each man paid for his horse eight poli From hence our right way to Ancona had beene to Forli Cesena and
such like crimes and now had their pardon vpon condition that for some yeeres they should serue the Emperour in Hungarie against the Turks These men abhorred in all Italy yet no doubt at this time very deuout did make stiffe vows to expiat their sinnes and to haue happie returne out of Hungarie yet they held their hands from giuing any large almes My selfe and my consorts were all this day fasting for it had been an vnperdonable sinne to haue demaunded meate in our Inne before wee had been in the Church and would haue giuen open occasion to suspect our Religion At last when wee returned to the Inne our Vetturine gaue vs our dinner The same day after a slight dinner we rode foureteene miles vpon a causey paued with stone and winding about a mountaine then through fields abounding with Oliue trees but hauing no vines and we came to the City Macerata where the Popes Legate lies and keepes his chancery for this Marca of Ancona Part of this Prouince yeelds rich wine whereof they haue onely white wine in the Innes The second day in the morning we rode twenty two miles to Poluertna through a pleasant way and fruitfull fields yeelding corne and oliues And by the way neere the City Tollentine were the confines of the Marca of Ancona and of the Dukedome of Spoleto After dinner we rode ten miles to the Castle Sereuallo through stony and barren mountaines The third day in the morning we rode sixteene miles to Fuligni through most stony and barren mountaines which are called Apennine and diuide the length of Italy and through a large plaine planted with oliue trees and compassed about with mountaines This City was built vpon the ruines of the City Forum Flaminium After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Spoleto through a firtle plaine but stony yeelding together in the same field vines corne Almond and Oliue trees and at the end of the plaine this City is seated partly in a plaine partly on the side of a mountaine vpon the top whereof is a strong Castle built vpon the ruines of an old Amphitheater to the which men passe ouer a bridge of stone vpheld by twentyfour great pillars ioyning two mountaines which haue a deepe valley between them but narrow and without water In the Church of this Castle they shew a picture of the blessed Virgin painted with Saint Lukes hand of which kind there is an infinit number among the Papists Theodoricus King of the Gothes built a stately Pallace in the City which being ruined Narses the Eunuch Gouernour of Italy vnder the Easterne Emperour did rebuild it The Dukedome of Spoleto is subiect to the Pope who tooke it when he cast the Easterne Emperours out of Italy and after extorted the grant thereof from the renewed Westerne Emperours And the soile of this Dukedome is most fruitfull of corne wine almond and oliue trees and of most sweet fruits Of the wine Martiall thus writes De Spoletanis quae funt curiosa lagenis Malueris quam si musta Falerna hib as If with Spoleto bottels once you meet Say that Falerno must is not so sweet The fourth day in the morning wee rode ten mils through stony and most barren mountaines and fiue miles through a fertile plaine wherein grew together corne vines and oliue trees which trees I obserued alwaies to grow in stony ground which soyle in Italy vseth to be more firtile then other and seuen miles through a more firtile plaine in the end whereof is the City Narni whose situation is altogether like that of Spoleto The Italians told me that the soyle of this territory is made dirty with the sunne and wind and dusty with raine which since I haue found confirmed by learned Cosmographers On the South-side of Narni the Riuer Negra fals with great noise from a steepe Rocke and the Friar Leandro who hath best discribed Italy affirmes that the Riuer Velino makes a Fen which Cicero numbers among wonderful things and that this Fen endeth in a Lake of old called Veanus now vulgarly called Lago di pie di luco and that betweene the running out of the waters there is a Fountaine of Neptune which Pliny hath described and that this Lake is the Nauell of midst of Italy and lastly that the water falling into the Lake compassed with mountaines by steepe discents maketh noises like the groanes yellings and sighes of infernall spirits From whence and by other arguments he seemes to proue plainely that the verses of Virgill in the seuenth Booke of his AEneados are meant of this place and that others are deceiued who thinke them meant by Tenaso in Apulia especially since the vallies Ansancti are in this place vulgarly called Nesanto for Ansanto which signifies on all sides holy because they are fertile The verses of Virgil are these Est locus Italiae in medio sub montibus altis Nobilis fama multis memoratur in oris Ansancti valles c. Hic specus horrendum saeui spiracula Ditis Monstrantur c. Italtes Center hath great Mounts beneath A noble place which is farre knowne by fame The Ansancti valleyes c. A dreadfull hole whereat fierce Dis doth breath Here may be seene c. After dinner we rode twelue miles to a little Towne lying beyond the Riuer Tyber namely eight miles to the Castle Otricoli through woody Mountaines and Valyes bearing Oliue trees and corne together with those trees and from thence to the side of the Riuer Tyber two miles in pasture fieldes Here we passed to the West side of this so famous Riuer where of old the Emperour Augustus built a stately bridge but now men and horse passe in a ferry-boate which is drawne ouer with the force of mens hands by a great cable fastned a-crosse the Riuer And least the boate should be carried away with the swift streame a second cable is fastned a-crosse the Riuer by postes on each side higher then a man and they haue a third short cable to the one end whereof the boate is fastened and the other end hath a strong wheele which is put vpon the second high cable vpon which the boat slips forward as it is drawne with mens hands by the first low cable for the bed of the Tyber is broade in this place and hath his spring not far off among the high Apenine Mountains and falling thence with great force would carry away any boat rowed with oares But from thence the bed of the Riuer grows narrow and is such at Rome as it scarce deserues the name of a Brooke and nothing answeres the glorious fame which Italians haue giuen it who alwaies extoll their owne things to the skie Hereupon it is necessarie that when any store of raine falls or much snow suddenly meltes those waters falling from the Mountaines should ouerflow the fields and the Citie of Rome it selfe as they haue often done with great danger of the Citie the same being not farre distant from this Ferrey and
is not to be endured and yet they cannot vse Coaches one fashion pleased me beyond measure that at the end of many streetes they had chaires vulgarly called Seggioli di Napoli which those that are weary doe enter and they being couered round about and onely hauing windowes on the sides he that is carried therein cannot be seene of any and yet himselfe may see all that passe Two Porters carry these chaires by two long staues fastened thereunto and lift them but little from the ground and so for a moderate price carry the passenger to any part of the City After I obserued the same fashion at Genoa which is in like sort seated vpon the sides of hils and mountaines and in Cities so seated I thinke this fashion very conuenient The territory of Naples hath many famous antiquities and wonderfull things to be seene which that we might behold we went early in the morning on foot out of the Southwest-side of the City hauing passed long suburbs scattered houses we came within a Musket shot to the mountaine E Pausilippo which is wonderfully pleasant aswell for the houses and villages built vpon it as for the excellent fruits which it yeeldeth of all kinds This mountaine being hard to be ascended extendeth it selfe in good length from the sea towards the land so as the way would be very troublesome to Pozzols either ascending the mountaine or compassing it had they not found a remedy to this inconuenience Therefore the Progenitors of these Citizens which some attribute to Lucullus as they doe all magnificall things and others to one Bassus but Leander the Cosmographer a witnesse without exception attributes it to Coccius a Roman I say their Progenitors with wonderful Art and huge expence digged a passage vnder this mountaine and so made a plaine way to Pozzoli and those parts This way Strabo cals a Caue and it is vulgarly called La grotta di Napoli and serueth this famous City in stead of a gate yet is it a musket shot distant and alwaies lies open And the foresaid Leander witnesseth that it is twelue foot broad twenty foure high and two hundred long to which length if you adde 500. foote more which at both ends was digged but lies not couered as the rest but in open aire this worke may well be said to be an Italian mile long My selfe obserued that part of the passage vnder the mountaine to bee nine hundred and sixteene walking paces long and nine broad and the hight I imagined to double the bredth yet is it in some places biger then in other And for the bredth it is certaine that two Coaches or Carts may passe together one by the other The enterance and the going out at the other end are like two gates and of old light came in by many holes or windowes from the top of the mountaine but the falling of earth did by little and little stop this light and in the time of Seneca this passage was so darke as he compares it to a prison and at last the light was so stopped by the fall of earth by nettles and shrubs as there was no light at all till Alphonso the first of Aragon King of Naples opened two windowes towards the two ends which onely light it hath at this day to direct passengers At the entrance of either end the opposite gate seemes no bigger then a full Moone and a man entering there would seeme a little child It hath no light in the middest but like twilight or the Ouidian light which is in thicke woods and in the twilight of morning and euening passengers vse torches continually the carters or horsmen when they passe by the midst of the caue vse to giue warning one to the other crying vulgarly Alla marina that is towards the sea or Alla Montagna that is towards the mountaine according to the side on which they come Before we entered this caue among other stately Pallaces one vulgarly called Merguilino built by Iames Sanazzarro a famous Poet almost of our age and giuen by his last will to a religious house contains the sepulcher of a learned man vpon which Bembus is said to haue written these verses Da sacro cineriflores hic ille Maroni Sincerus Musaproximus vt tumulo These relikes decke with flowers Sincer us here In tombe as muse to Maro comes most neere Vpon the mountaine of Pausilippo is the sepulcher of Virgil shewed in two places whom Seruius writes to haue beene buried in this way neere Naples and that these verses were written vpon his sepulcher Mantua me genuit Calabrirapuere tenet nunc Parthenope cecinipascua rura Duces Mantuan borne Calaber dead me holds Parthenope who sung ploughs Dukes sheepefolds Or thus Mantua gaue me life Calabry death my graue Parthenope who sung pastures Ploughs Captaines braue Or thus Mantua life did lend to me Calabers laid me on deaths carre My bones lie at Parthenope Who sung sheepe tillage feates of warre And the best iudgements hold that he was buried in the Church of the Friars regular canons at the entrance of the caue as you go froÌ Naples not in the Church at the going out of the Caue and though both places shew the sepulcher yet these verses are in neither place but the inscriptions are worne out with age the Monks report that there was a statua of brasse vpon his sepulcher which those of Mantua stole fro thence indeede at Mantua they shew such a statua whether stolne from hence or no let them dispute When we had passed this Caue wee bent our way from the Sea towards the land and came to the Mountaine m Astrune being of forme like a Theater compassing a large Plaine Alphonso the first King of Aragon and Naples and his sonne Ferdinand vsed to inuite the Princes Nobles and People of the Kingdome to hunting in this place turning the dogs and beasts they hunted into the valley himselfe and the noble men sitting in a pleasant Groue vpon the top of the Mountaine and the people being scattered round about the Mountaine to behold the sport In the same plaine compassed with this Mountaine is the Lake of m Agnano which is said to be without bottome and to haue nothing in it but frogs And at the foote of the inside of the Mountaine next to Naples there is a venimous Caue vulgarly called n la grotta del'can ' that is the Caue of the dogge because they trie the poison by putting dogs into it This Caue is some eight foote high and sixe broad and goeth some foure paces vnder the Mountaine where a signe is set beyond which if any liuing thing passe it presently dies Pliny writes that this caue was called Cherone a scrobae euaporating a pestilent aire We gaue two poli to a woman dwelling there for a dog to trie the poyson with it which dog wee fastened to a long staffe and so thrust him into the caue holding him there till he seemed dead and being taken
he said that he began then first to dwell like a man Vpon this said Mountaine of the Horses the Pope hath a stately Pallace which a Cardinall of Ferrara built and he being dead Pope Gregorie the thirteenth seased vpon it The staires are very faire each hauing his pillar and the ascent is most easie I think a fairer Gallerie can hardly be seene being one hundred and twentie walking paces long There is a Chamber wherin Pope Sixius the fifth died A second wherein Ambassadours are heard A third in which Cardinals are chosen The Popes study is very pleasant and so is the Garden hauing many Fountaines Groues Labyrinthes a Rocke artificially distilling water and many most sweet Arbours Moreouer on this Mount is the most faire Fountaine of Pope Sixtus the fifth called the Happie for hither is the water brought from the stately Conduit without the Gate Maggiore in the way IX Praenestina reaching many miles which was built by Pope Sixtus the fifth with Imperiall magnificence in the yeere 1587. And this Fountaine casteth out waters from the mouthes of foure Lions of white Marble Likewise vpon the same is the Image of Moses striking the Rocke with his Rod and there be two other mouthes lower to cast out water and it is all engrauen with the said historie of Moses Descending from this Mount we did see in a priuate Gentlemans house an Horse of brasse esteemed at twenty fiue thousand pounds sterling which Henrie the second had placed at Paris as they said it death had not preuented him Hence towards the East we went forward towards the Bathes of Dioclesian and by the way at the foote of the Mount of the Horses we did see the Bathes of Constantine A man cannot sufficiently wonder at the ruines of Dioclesians Baths by which it seemes they were of incredible greatnesse and they report that this Emperour compelled many thousands of Christians to worke vpon this building for many yeeres Vnder the earth are gates and diuers passages of vnknowne extent Vpon these Bathes Pope Pius the fourth in the yeere 1561 built the Church Saint Mary of the Angels and with the consent of the people of Rome gaue it to the Carthusian Friers In the roomes of this Bath Pope Gregorie the thirtenth in the yeere 1575 built a Granary for Corne and the said Church of Saint Marie is beautified with faire pillars thirtie spannes compasse and with exquisite pictures especially those two neere the Altar of the Emperor Maximilian and his Empresse Hence we went to the Church of Saint C Marie Maggiore being one of the seuen Churches and vnder this Church vpon a Hill neere Saint Potentiana which giues the title to a Cardinall of old were the Nouatian Bathes And vpon Mount XXVI Esquiline neere the Church Saint Laurence In Palesperna giuing title to a Cardinall were of old the Olimpike Bathes And the said Church of Saint Marie is built where the Temple of Isis stoode highly honoured of the old Romans Pope Sixtus the fifth brought hither in the yeere 1587 the foresaid Obeliske from the Sepulcher of Augustus neere 18 Saint Rocco and it is the lowest and the least of all the Obeliskes Vpon this Mount Esquiline was a place for burning dead bodies but the Romans being offended with the smoke Augustus gaue that field to Maecenas who made most famous Gardens there Hereabouts lies the Chappell of Saint Luke peculiar to the Painters and there was a groue consecrated to Iuno The Church of Saint Anthony is little but full of faire pictures and in the Vineyard of the Hospitall was the stately Church of Diana And the famous Church of Mars was built where that of Saint Martin now stands which giues the title to a Cardinall As we went from Mount Esquiline to the Theater of Vespasian we saw by the way a rare Monument built by the said Emperour or his sonne Titus vpon Mount Esquiline It hath nine Cesternes vnder the ground and is vulgarly called Sette sale of seuen seuerall chambers where of each is seuentene foote broad twelue foote high and one hundred thirtie seuen foote long and hath foure doores which so answere one another as a man may see all the roomes at once Neere the Church of Saint Clement is the wonderfull Theater of Vespasian vulgarly called Il Coliseo in which the people were wont to see the fighting of Fencers the hunting of wilde beasts and like games and it receiued one hundred and nintie others say eightie fiue thousand persons and the outside was of old round but the inside of Oual forme and as high as the top of Mount Celius I obserued the building now to be of bricke and the foundation to be sixtie walking paces broad and to haue foure rowes of seates one aboue the other and the inside from the foundation of the seates to bee eight walking paces broad and one hundred thirtie and fiue paces long The ruines of the like Theater but lesse built by Statilius lie neere the Church D San'Croce The foresaid Church of Saint Clement giues the title to a Cardinall but the wals are all ruined and this part is not inhabited neither is the streete paued from thence to the Church D S. Croce in memory as they say of Pope Ioane which being great with childe and hauing gone a folemne Procession from A Saint Iohn Lateran to the said Church of the D holy Crosse as she returned this way amidst her pompe was deliuered of a Childe Neere to the said Theater of Vespasian lies the Triumphall Arch erected to Constantine the great when he had ouercome Maxentius and it is most faire and curiously carued Neere that is the Church of Saint Marie the new which giues the title to a Cardinal and in the Garden is a monument of the idoll Serapis The 22 Triumphal Arch erected to Vespasian and Titus when hee came from the destruction of Ierusalem hath but one Arch and is lesse then the former erected to Constantine but it is no lesse adorned with their actions engrauen Neere the said Church of Saint Marie the new lie the vast ruines of the famous Temple of Peace the roofe whereof is richly engrauen Neere this is a kind of Gibet which they called of old Tygillum Sororium that is the sisters rafter because when the Horatij three brothers had killed the Curiutij three brothers yet onely one of the Horatij remaining aliue he returning into the Citie and finding his sister weepe for her priuate losse in a day of publique ioy killed her with his owne handes and for shew of iustice was condemned to passe vnder this rafter without further punishment in respect of his desert in that battell Vpon mount Palatine of old was a Pallace now called vulgarly XXIII Ilpalazzo Maggiore in which most of the Emperours did dwell and vpon the ruines thereof the deceased Cardinall Farnese had a pleasant Vineyard And at the foote of this Mountaine neere the Chappell of Saint Theodor they say that Romulus and Remus were
this time no more then seuen in number for the Duke vsed to send out in summer time some two or three Gallies and seldome any more to spoile the Turkes which he might doe more boldly because the Florentines haue no cause to feare the Turkes since they vse no traffick by sea but send out their silkes and other commodities by strange ships and onely take care to entertaine those Merchants well who bring them corne and victuals by sea At the same West corner of the City is a bridge of bricke ouer the Riuer Arno built high in the midst with three Arches vnder which the boates passe And towards the East there be three other like bridges Neere the first bridge is another gate of the City leading towards the sea and neere the same is the most sweete walke that euer I beheld It hath in bredth some fiue rowes of trees on each side and a like distance of greene grasse betweene those trees but it reacheth in length many miles and out of the Riuer Arno are drawne two ditches which runne all the length of it one vpon each side so as the Citizens in summer time vse to take boat in Arno at their doores with a a basket of victuals and so many Families of them passing by the ditches on both sides the walke sit downe a good distance the one from the other and there sup and conuerse with great pleasure On the South side of the City a strong Fort lies neere the wall and there is the third gate of the City In the midst of the City vpon the banke of Arno is the Pallace of the Duke of Florence and there is a statua erected to Ferdinando the Duke then liuing who much fauoured this City in which he was borne Not farre thence is a little but most faire Chappell all of marble built in the forme of a Thorne vulgarly called La Capella lesu di Spina The pleasant seat of the City the curtesie of the Citizens and my desire to conuerse with the Professors of the Vniuersity made me spend some daies in this City where I paid by the day for my chamber and bed three creitzers and my Host was tied to buy and dresse such meat for me as I desired wherein I spent some three Giulij by the day and if I had purposed to stay long I might haue liued well at a more easie rate CHAP. III. Of my iourney to Ligorno my returne to Florence and to Sienna and the description of these Cities Of my iourney by Land to Lirigi in which againe I passed by Lucca and Pisa and by sea to Genea with the description of that City and my iourney by Land to Pania to Milano to Cremona and to Mantous with the discription of the Cities and of my returne to Padena I Hired a horse for three Giulij from Pisa to Ligorna an Hauen of this state which Ftolomy of old called Liburuum of which name there is another Hauen betweene Istria and Dalmatia and Cicero called Labro Not farre from Pisa I passed by boat the brooke Serpe running from Lucca and paid two creitzers for passing my horse and one for my selfe Then for three miles I rode vpon a paued way and thirteene miles more through a plaine of pasture full of many woods and Lakes which lakes and fenny grounds lying neere Pisa make the aire vnwholsome some möneths of the yeere and the Citizens much subiect to sickenes So after sixteene miles riding I came to Ligorno which was of old fortified by the Pisans and those fortifications were demolished by the Genoest in the yeere 1297. but peace being made betweene them this place returned vnder the command of the Pisans and they being after subdued by the Florentines this place came also into their hands and when the French King Charles the eight in the yeere 1494. restored the Pisans to liberty this place followed their fortune till the Pisans againe being subdued by the Florentines in the yeere 1509. this place also returned to their subiection It is said to haue the name of Ligornus sonne to Phaeton Cosmo de Medicis Duke of Florence began to fortifie againe this ancient Towne and to measure out the circuit and the streetes thereof And Duke Francis tooke vpon him to goe forward with this vnperfected worke and he being dead Duke Ferdinand his brother at that time liuing brought it to the forme of a most strong Fort and faire City And at this time the streetes began to be replenished with houses for the Duke made this place as it were a sanctuary to offenders vpon whom he vsed to impose for punishment either to dwell there for euer or at least for some yeeres and to adde one or more houses to the building so as the City was now faire and populous but it was filled with Citizens guilty of crimes and of no ciuill conuersation My selfe hearing that they were such men perhaps out of preiudicate opinion did thinke their lookes barbarous which made me looke more warily to my selfe and to those things I had with me The City is seated in a plaine somewhat longer from the North to the South then it is broad from the East to the West and the sea lies vpon it partly on the North and partly on the South and altogether on the West side And it hath one Tower on the North side and another one the South side reaching into the sea out of which they hang lights by night to direct saylers and betweene these Towers full on the West side there is a Hauen for great ships further out into the sea and also neere the City and compassed with the wals thereof are two Hauens for Gallies and small Barkes The Riuer Arno running from the East to the West passeth by the City on the North side and there fals into the sea and at the corner on the North side is a strong Fort. Here I paid vpon reckoning two giulij for my supper and as much next day for my dinner and returning to Pisa by water I paid seuen creitzers for my passage Two weekes being thus spent I thought good to returne to Florence that I might receiue my money which I had not receiued before because for feare of the inquisition I onely staied there Easter day in the Dutch Inne Therefore hiring a horse for foure giulij I rode forty miles to Florence through the pleasant valley of Arno partly tilled after the manner of Lombardy where the same field yeelds corne wine wood partly diuided into sweet pastures By the way it hapened that I brake a bough of a mulbery tree to shade me from the sunne and falling into the company of an honest Gentleman he told me I seemed a stranger because I carried that bough since those trees planted in the high waies belonged to the Duke who preserued them for silke-wormes and had imposed a great penalty vpon any that should breake a bough thereof so as if I passed with this bough
landed when we were cited to appeare before the Maior and his Assistants Where for my part the more poore I was in apparrell the more frowardly I behaued my felte towards them as many good mindes are most proud in the lowest fortunes so as they began to intreate me rudely as if I were some Popish Priest till by chance a Gentleman one of the Maiors Assistants asking my name and being familiarly acquainted with my brother by priuat discourse with me vnderstood that I had been robbed in France whereupon hee gaue his word for mee vnto the Maior and so walked with mee to our Inne There he shewed so much respect and loue to me and after my refusall of mony from him so frankely gaue his word for me to the English Post as he was not only willing to furnish me with what money I would but himselfe and the Dutch Gentlemen my Consorts in that iourney much more respected me though poorely apparelled then they had formerly done Assoone as I came to London I paied the ten French Crownes due by my bill of exchange to the foresaid French Merchant and not onely payed to the English Post the money hee had disbursed for mee by the way but gaue him sixe French Crownes of free gift in thankfulnesse for this courtesie At London it happened that in regard of my robbing in France when I entered my sisters house in poore habit a seruant of the house vpon my demaund answered that my sister was at home but when he did see me goe vp the staires too boldly as he thought without a guide hee not knowing mee in respect of my long absence did furiously and with threatning words call me backe and surely would haue been rude with me had I not gone vp faster then he could follow me and iust as I entred my sisters chamber he had taken hold on my old cloake which I willingly flung of to be rid of him Then by my sisters imbraces he perceiued who I was and stole backe as if he had trodden vpon a Snake The third Booke CHAP. I. Of my iourney to Stoade through the Vnited Prouinces of Netherland and vpon the Sea-coast of Germany then to Brunswick and the right way to Nurnburg Augspurg and Inspruck in Germany and from thence to Venice in Italy and so by the Mediterranean Seas and the Ilands thereof to Ierusalem In which iourney I slightly passe ouer the places described in my former passage those waies FRom my tender youth I had a great desire to see forraine Countries not to get libertie which I had in Cambridge in such measure as I could not well desire more but to enable my vnderstanding which I thought could not be done so well by contemplation as by experience nor by the eare or any sence so well as by the eies And hauing once begun this course I could not see any man without emulation and a kind of vertuous enuy who had seene more Cities Kingdomes and Prouinces or more Courts of Princes Kings and Emperours then my selfe Therefore hauing now wandred through the greatest part of Europe and seene the chiefe Kingdomes thereof I sighed to my selfe in silence that the Kingdome of Spaine was shut vp from my sight by the long warre betweene England and Spaine except I would rashly cast my selfe into danger which I had already vnaduisedly done when I viewed the Citie and Fort of Naples and the Citie of Milan And howsoeuer now being newly returned home I thought the going into more remote parts would be of little vse to me yet I had an itching desire to see Ierusalem the fountaine of Religion and Constantinople of old the seate of Christian Emperours and now the seate of the Turkish Ottoman Being of this mind when I returned into England it happened that my brother Henrie was then beginning that voyage hauing to that purpose put out some foure hundred pounds to be repaied twelue hundred pounds vpon his returne from those two Cities and to lose it if he died in the iourney I say he had thus put out the most part of his small estate which in England is no better with Gentlemens younger sonnes nor so good as with bastards in other places aswell for the English Law most vnmeasurably fauouring elder brothers as let me boldly say it for the ignorant pride of fathers who to aduance their eldest sonnes driue the rest to desperate courses and make them vnable to liue or to spend any money in getting vnderstanding and experience so as they being in wants and yet more miserable by their Gentrie and plentifull education must needes rush into all vices for all wise men confesse that nothing is more contrary to goodnesse then pouerty My brother being partner with other Gentlemen in this fortune thought this putting out of money to be an honest meanes of gaining at least the charges of his iourney and the rather because it had not then been heard in England that any man had gone this long iourney by land nor any like it excepting only Master Iohn Wrath whom I name for honour and more specially hee thought this gaine most honest and iust if this iourney were compared with other base aduentures for gaine which long before this time had been were then in vse And I confesse that this his resolution did not at the first sight dislike me For I remembred that this manner of gaine had of old been in vse among the inhabitants of the Low-Countries and the Sea-Coasts of Germany and so it is yet in vse with them I remembred that no meane Lords and Lords sonnes and Gentlemen in our Court had in like sort put out money vpon a horserace or speedie course of a horse vnder themselues yea vpon a iourney on foote I considered that those kindes of gaining onely required strength of body whereas this and the like required also vigor of minde yea that they often weakened the body but this and the like alwaies bettered the mind I passe ouer infinite examples of the former customes and will onely adde that Earles Lords Gentlemen and all sorts of men haue vsed time out of mind to put out money to bee repaied with aduantage vpon the birth of their next childe which kinde of gaine can no way bee compared with the aduentures of long iournies yea I will boldly say it is a base gaine where a man is so hired to that daliance with his wife and to kill a man so he may get a boy as if he were to be incouraged to a game of Olympus Being led with these reasons I liked his counsell and made my selfe his consort in that iourny And I had now giuen out vpon like condition mony to some few friends when perceiuing the common opinion in this point to be much differing from mine and thereupon better considering this matter and obseruing as a stranger that had beene long out of my Countrey that these kind of aduentures were growne very frequent whereof some were vndecent some
Holy Scriptures witnes Vpon Munday the third of Iune at nine of the clocke in the morning the Subasha of Ramma sent vs a Horseman or Lancyer to guide vs and with him came the Atalla that is interpreter whom the Italians call Drogomano who was a Maronite Christian that vsed to guide strangers They brought vs Asses to ride vpon which they vse there in stead of Horses excepting onely the souldiers and with them came a Muccaro so they call those that hier out Asses Mules or Cammels We presently landed about noone and when my brother leaped vpon land and according to the manner bended downe to kisse it by chance he fell and voided much blood at the nose and howsoeuer this be a superstitious signe of ill yet the euent was to vs tragicall by his death shortly after happening Here for our carriage namely our shirts for the rest we had left in the Barke we iointly paid fiue meydines for cafar that is Tribute and the Officers of Ioppa extorted from each of vs for his person halfe a Spanish Reale neither would they be pleased till each of vs gaue them two meydines in gift Then we iointly gaue fixe meydines to our Muccaro for his dinner and fiue of free gift Our Asses had pannels in stead of saddles ropes for bridles and ropes laid crosse the pannels and knotted at the ends in stead of stirrups The same Monday in the afternoone we rode ten miles to Ramma through a most pleasant plaine yeelding time and hysope and other fragrant herbes without tillage or planting growing so high as they came to the knees of our Asses By the way on our left hand not farre out of the high way lay the ruines of the City Lydda where Saint Peter cured one sicke of the palsie and Saint George is said to haue suffered martyrdome and that his head is yet kept in a Greeke Church We also passed by a Village hauing a moschee or Turkish Church and being full of pleasant Orchards of Figge-trees Oliue-trees Pome-granates bearing buds of flesh colour and being like a Barbery tree by little and little couered with a greene rinde and many kinds of fruites the abundance whereof in these parts we might easily guesse when wee bought in the Port of Ioppa more then a thousand Abricots for six Aspers at which time left we should surfet on such daintaies the vntemperate eating whereof we had read to haue often killed many Europeans we durst not eate them raw but Iod the most part of them Now vpon the third of Iune they had almost gathered in their Haruest and all the fields were full of Cotten growing like Cabbage two foote high and yeelding a round Apple out of which they gather the Cotten This Cotten is sowed in April and gathered in September and great quantity thereof is carried from hence into Europe At Ramma we were brought into a house where Pilgrimes vse to be lodged and it was of old great strong but at this time more fit to lodge beasts then men Some say it was the House of Ioseph of Arimathia others say it was Nicodemus his house and there was a fountaine of water and a Court yard to walke in but the roomes were full of dust and we hardly got straw to lie vpon There were yet some marbles and ruines of building that shewed it to haue beene a faire house The Maronite Christians brought vs victuals and they sold vs a pound of bisket for sixe meidines twelue egs for one meidine a Cheese for one Rice for two some two English quarts of wine for fiue a salet for one and twelue Cakes they hauing no leauened bread for foure meidines We that were Lay-men gaue each of vs sixe Zechines and each of the Friars fiue into the hands of our Interpreter to be giuen to the Subasha for tribute or rather for our safe conduct I know that fauour is done to Friars especially by these Ministers belonging to Monasteries and we committed the ordering of our expences to one of the Franciscan Friars who had best experience so as it may be the Interpreter restored to the Friars their money or part of it but I am sure these my eies did see them pay so much One in the name of the Subasha brought vs for a present some flaggons of a medicinall drinke made of cooling hearbes and sold in the Tauernes as we sell wine We iointly gaue fiue meidines to a watch-man appointed to keepe our doore and protect vs from wrong who being a man of very great stature was called Goliah and he walked all night at our gate where he did sing or rather houle with his hoarce voice continually Some write that there is onely due one Zechine to the Subasha another to the Captaine of the Arabians and twenty fiue meidines for Cafar or Tribute and half a Zechine to the Muccaro who let out their Asses to Pilgrimes and that the guide deceiues the Christians of all the rest I am sure that the guide being of experience deliuers the Christians from many iniuries offered them by the Arabians and others for which fauour they cannot sufficiently require him and if any deale sparingly with him he complaines of them to the Guardian of the Monastery at Ierusalem who neuer suffers him to be sent away discontented neither wants he power himselfe to deceiue the Christians at his pleasure if he beare that mind At Ramma we iointly gaue one Zechine to our Muccaro of whom we hired our Asses And the fourth of Iune hauing him onely to conduct vs we tooke our ioutney before day towards Ierusalem being thirty miles distant I meane of Italy As we rode before day our Muccaro warned vs to be silent lest we should waken the Arabians Turkes or Thecues who then slept and were like if they awaked to offer vs violence or at least to extort some money from vs. The Arabians are not vnlike the wild Irish for they are subiect to the great Turke yet being poore and farre distant from his imperiall seat they cannot be brought to due obedience much lesse to abstaine from robberies After we had rode ten miles we did see vpon a hill not farre distant on our right hand the ruines of the House or Pallace of the good Thiefe crucified with our Sauiour which ruines yet remaine and shew that the house was of old stately built as if he had beene a man of some dignity banished for robbing of passengers and when he was brought to the Magistrates hand had beene condemned to death for the same From hence to the very City of Ierusalem the Mountaines or Rockes doe continually rise higher and higher till you come to the City our way hitherto hauing beene in a pleasant plaine rich in corne and pasture These mountaines which we after passed seemed stony and barren but yeelded fragrant hearbes and excellent corne growing betweene the great stones and some vallies were pleasant as the vally of hieromia as I thinke
of Mount Oliuet in which they say Christ vsed to pray and did sweat bloud 44 Here they shew a place where they say beleeue it who list that S. Thomas after the Virgines buriall did see her both in body and soule assumed into heauen and that she casting her girdle to him gaue it for testimony thereof that all others might beleeue it In my opinion they did well to make Saint Thomas see it for otherwise hee would neuer haue beleeued it 45 The place where they say the Virgin was wont to rest when she visited the places frequented by her Sonne in the time hee liued heere and where she beheld the stoning of Saint Stephen and prayed for him 46 The stone where Christ leauing Peter Iames and Iohn said that his soule was heauy vnto death and went aside to pray warning them to watch 47 Here is a little circuit inclosed with a low wall where they report the Garden to be at the foot of Mount Oliuet where Christ vsed to pray and was betrayed by Iudas with a kisse 48 The place where they say the Village of Getsemany was of old seated Round about this place the Turks doe bury their dead as they do also in a field on the North side without the walles for they neuer burie within Cities excepting onely the monuments of their Emperours 49 Here they say Saint Iames the lesse did lye hidden till hee heard that Christ was risen againe the third day after his Passion 50 Here be two old Sepulchers almost of a round forme built of Free-stone or rather cut out of the liuing stone wherof the one is called the Sepulcher of Absolon the sonne of Dauid the other of King Manasses or as others say of the King Ezektas And considering the antiquitie they seeme no Plebean Sepulchers but stately and fit for Princes being foure Elles from the ground in height 51 Here is the top of Mount Oliuet the highest of all the Mountaines that compasse Ierusalem and here in a Chappell they shew in stone the print of Christs feete when he ascended into Heauen And this Chappell is kept by a Turkish Zanton that is a kinde of their Priests and the Turkes giue such reuerence to the monuments of Christ liuing on earth as they are much offended with Christians if they creepe not on their knees and with their shooes off to this and like monuments To the keeper hereof we gaue a few meidines for reward 52 Here they say Christ did weepe ouer the Citie and rich Temple of Salomon and in this place is the fullest prospect to view the Citie and Temple 53 Here they shew the ruines of the house wherein the Apostles assembled did write the Creede 54 Here they say Christ taught his Disciples to pray in the forme euer since receiued and here was a Church built by the Christians of old 55 Here they say Christ foretold the signes of the day of Iudgement 56 Here they say the Angell foretold the Virgin shee should die at three dayes ende Vpon Thursday the sixth of Iune we being to goe to Bethania hired each of vs an Asse for foure meidines that place being scarse two Italian miles from the citie Of our company we were foure Lay-men and because the Friers our consorts pleaded themselues to be free from such expences we were content to yeeld to them and gaue iointly into the hands of the Fryer our guide two zechines wherewith he was to giue small rewards and to pay the Muccaro who furnished vs with Asses for we meant not to eate till our returne the place being no further distant and there being no dwellings but onely the ruines of houses What our guide spent I know not for he neuer offered to giue vs account and because he was a Frier wee would not trouble him in demaunding it We went out by the Gate Sterquilinea noted with the figure 11 on the South side 57 First we came to the Fountaine Siloe to which Christ sent the blind man to wash his eyes and there we found Turkish women washing who beate vs away with stones 58 Here they shew a monument of the Prophet Elia but what it was I remember not 59 Here they shew a Fountaine where they say the Virgin washed Christs clothes when he was an infant 60 The Mount of Offence opposite to Mount Sion which Mount lies beyond the Brooke Cedron and extendeth Eastward towards Bethania and vpon the top thereof they shew the ruines of the Pallace which Salomon built for his Concubines and of the Altar vpon which hee sacrificed to Idols Betweene this Mount and that of Mount Sion they shew the Valley of the sonnes of Hinnon towards the West and there they shew a place wherein the Iewes offered their children to the Idoll Molech that is Saturne yet we reade that this Valley lies by the entry of the East-Gate Ieremtah chap. 19. vers 2. 61 Here they say the Prophet Isaiah was cut in pieces with a Sawe at the commaund of King Manasses 62 Here is a bridge ouer the Brook Kedron or Cedron of one Arch built of stone whereby they passe when the bed of the Brooke is filled with water which now wee passed drie footed And here they shew a place where they say Christ fell vpon the stones of the bed where the brook should runne when he being betraied by Iudas was drawne into the Citie in a great presse of the Iewes And vpon these stones are the prints of hands and feete as they say his 63 The way leading to Bethania ouer Mount Oliuet 64 The place where they say Iudas hanged himselfe and burst after he had betraied his Lord. Not farre hence they shew a figge tree which they say Christ cursed because it had leaues without fruit 65 Here descending from Mount Oliuet towards the East we did see farre off the valley Iordan to which the Mountaines decline by little and little And now we were come to Bethania where we did see the House of Simon the Leaper not yet ruined and inhabited by a Moore to whom we gaue a few meidines 66 Here they shew stately ruines of a Pallace which they say belonged to Lazarus And not farre thence is a Chappell built ouer the stately sepulcher of Lazarus the key whereof the Friars our guides had with them For the Turkes putting great religion in reuerencing this place haue an Oratory neere it and enter into the Sepulcher by another way Here they say Christ raised Lazarus out of his graue At our going forth wee were forced to giue some few meidines to certaine Turkes and Arabians I know not whether they had the Place in keeping or no 67 The House of Mary 68 The House of Martha her sister 69 The stone vpon which they say Christ did sit before he did see the sisters of Lazarus bewailing his death and it is some halfe mile from Bethania 70 This small line sheweth the bed of the Riuer Iordan running through a most pleasant valley which
Sunday by twilight of the morning we set sayle from Ioppa and coasting the shoare of Asia had the land so neere vs euery day as wee might easily distinguish the situation of the Cities and Territories And first we passed by the Citie called Caesaria Philippi seated in a Plaine and twentie fiue miles distant from Ioppa which of old was a famous Citie but now for the most part ruined and become an infamous nest of Turkes Moores and Arabians Here Christ raised to life the daughter of Iairus and healed the woman which for twelue yeetes had a flux of bloud And here Saint Peter did baptize the Centurion Cornelius and Saint Paul in the presence of Foelix disputed with Tertullus Here Titus the sonne of Vespasian landing when hee came to destroy Ierusalem cast great multitudes of Iewes to wilde beasts to be deuoured In the right way to Tripoli Antipatris was not farre distant which Herod did rebuild and thither the souldiers did leade Saiint Paul by the command of the Tribune Lysias but we could not see this Village Next we did see the Pilgrims Castle now called Tortora Then we sailed by the Promontory hanging farre ouer the Sea of the Mountaine Carmelus made famous by the aboade of the Prophet Elias Then we passed within sight of the old Citie Ptolemais after called Achon and Acri seated in a faire playne within a Creeke of the sea of the same name and compassing the Citie And such afaire plaine lyes all along the Coast from Ioppa to Tripoli This Citie was famous by the armies of Europe passing to conquer these parts and at this day it hath a large circuit compassed with walls and a commodious Hauen and is thirtie fiue miles distant from Caesaria From hence salling twentie miles we passed by the Citie Tyrus then called Sur the ruines whereof witnesse the old magnificence The seate thereof seemed most pleasant being built vpon a low Rocke in the forme of a Peninsule which Rocke was part of a high Promontory hanging ouer the sea And it may appeare how strongly it was fortified of old by Quintus Curtius relating the difficulties with which Alexander the Great took and subdued the same When we had sailed some ten miles further we did see the ruines of Sarepta where the Prophet Eleas lodged with a widdow in the time of a great famine After we had sayled some twenty miles further we did see and passed by the City Sydon now called Saetta seated on the North side of a Promontory and lying towards the West and South to the very sea side These most pleasant Territories are inhabited by wicked people but God sent vs a faire wind by which we escaped from them into whose Ports if we had beene driuen they would haue taken all lust and vniust occasions to extort money from vs if they did vs no worse harme Mention is often made in the Holy Seriptures of Sydon Tire and these Territories as well in the old as new Testament the particulars whereof I omit Here first we did gladly see the hils and high tops of Mount Lybanus being a very pleasant and fruitful mountaine the wines whereof are carried as farre is Haleppo The Castle Barutti is some two miles distant from the Promontory of Saetta and it is seated vpon the North-side of a hil hanging ouer the sea Here they say that Saint George deliuered the Kings daughter by killing a Dragon And to this place as also to Tyre and Sydon there is great concourse of Merchants who haue their chiefe trafficke at Damaseus and especially at Haleppo From hence we passed ten miles to Biblis then after ten miles saile we passed by ãâã and againe after ten miles saile by a Promontory which the Italians call Capo Peso Lastly we passed ten miles sailing by a most pleasant plaine and so vpon Thursday the seuenteenth of Iune landed at Tripoli of Syria so called for difference from Tripoli in Africke The Hauen is compassed with a wall and lies vpon the west-side of the City whereif were many little Barkes and some Shippes of Marsiles in France The Hauen is fortified with seuen Towers whereof the fourth is called the Tower of Loue because it was built by an Italian Merchant who was found in bed with a Turkish woman which offence is capitall as well to the Turke as Christian if he had not thus redeemed his life Vpon the Hauen are built many store-houses for Merchants goods and shops wherein they are fet to sayle The City of Tripoli is some halfe mile distant from the Hauen to which the way is sandy hauing many gardens on both sides In this way they shew a pillar fastned vpon a hill of sand by which they say the sand is inchanted lest it should grow to ouerwhelme the City Likewise they shew other pillars vnder which they say great multitudes of Scorpions were in like sort inchanted which of old wasted all that Territory and they thinke that if these pillars were taken away the City would be destroied by the sand and Scorpions The length of the City somewhat passeth the bredth and lieth from the South to the North seated vpon the side of an hill so cut by nature as it conueyes a brooke into the streetes Vpon the West side of the City towards the South corner is a Castle vpon a high hill which the French men built of old to keepe the Citizens in subiection and therein the Great Turke to the same end keepes a garrison of Souldiers vnder his Agha or Gouernour of the City Vpon the East side are two bridges ouer the foresaid brooke whence many pleasant fountains spring which running from the South to the North passe through the streetes of the City and then water the gardens Beyond this brooke are fruitfull hils and beyond the hils Mount Lybanus lies so high as it hinders all further prospect which mountaine is very pleasant abounding with fruitfull trees and with grapes yeelding a rich wine Vpon the North side without the gates are many most pleasant gardens in which they keepe great store of silke-wormes for the Turks sell their raw silke to the Italians and buy of them the stuffes wouen thereof The building of Tripoli and of these parts is like to that of Cyprus and Ierusalem The streete that leades to the way of Haleppo is broad the rest narrow and the aire and waters are vnhealthfull Mount Lybanus as I formerly said is incredibly fruitfull and the plaine of Tripoli reaching ten miles is more fruitfull then can easily be expressed bearing great store of pleasant fruites whereof one among the rest is called Amazza-Franchi that is kill Frankes or French because the men of Europe died in great numbers by eating immoderately thereof The plaine of Tripoli did of old yeeld two hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Count thereof as Historians write And how soeuer the old trafficke of Tripoli is for the most part remoued to
Damascus and Haleppo yet the City of Tripoli still yeelds foure hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Great Turke It may seeme incredible but it is most certaine that here and throughout Syria they haue sheepe of such bignes as the very tailes of them hanging in many wreathes to the ground doe weigh twenty fiue pounds and many times thirty three pounds A Christian who vseth to entertaine the French did very well intreat vs here and when I did see a bed made for me and my brother with cleane sheetes I could scarcely containe my selfe from going to bed before supper because I had neuer lien in naked bed since I came from Venice to this day hauing alwaies slept by sea and land in my doublet with linnen breeches and stockings vpon a mattresse and betweene couerlets or quilts with my breeches vnder my head But after supper all this ioy vanished by an euent least expected For in this part of Asia great store of cotten growes as it were vpon stalkes like Cabbage as I formerly said in my iourney from Ioppa to Ierusalem and these sheetes being made thereof did so increase the perpetuall heat of this Countrey now most vnsupportable in the summer time as I was forced to leape out of my bed and sleepe as I had formerly done My Host told me a strange thing namely that in Alexandria of AEgypt seated vpon one of the mouthes of the Riuer Nilus there was a Doue-cote that also at Cairo or Babylon farre within the Land of AEgypt there was another Doue-cote and because it much concernes the Merchants to haue speedy newes of any commodity arriuing he assured mee that they vsed to tie letters about the neckes of the Doues at Alexandria and so to let them loose which Doues hauing formerly bred in the Doue-cote at Cayro did flie thither most swiftly and the Keeper of them there taking the Letters they brought vsed to deliuer them to the Merchants This I beleeued not till I came to Haeleppo and telling it for a fable to the English Merchants there they seriously affirmed the same to be true Moreouer the Host of Tripoli told me newes from Constantinople namely that the Greekes had burnt great part of the City which he thought to be false and onely inuented to oppresse them in other parts and that the Ianizaries had raised a great tumult against the Subasha of the City who vsed great seuerity towards them by restraining them from drinking wine and from keeping harlots and that some one hundred of these seditious Ianizaries were drowned in the Heuen and the rest were daily sought out to be punished Moreouer that Halil Basha the Admirall of Turkey was parted from Constantinople with sixty Gallies hauing taken many Greeke and Armenian Christians by force to row in his Gallies besides that for want of Marriners he had left there twenty Gallies which were prepared to keepe that narrow sea Finally that the Great Turke was presently to goe with his Army into Hungary but was not yet departed from the City Now the French-men our consorts went aboard a ship of Marsiles to returne into France But my selfe and my brother being to goe by Land to Haleppo agreed to giue our Muccaro nine piastri for two Asses to ride vpon and their meate and for three tributes called cafarri which he was to pay for vs by the way comming to some twenty meidines They call him Muccaro who lets out Mules Asses or Horses and they call him Malem who conducts the Merchants goods Moreouer we were forced to giue a suger-loafe to the value of a Zechine to the Gouernour of the City and a Piastro to the Scribe or Clerke of the City for the priuiledge to goe without a Ianizare to conduct vs so they pretended omitting no occasions to extort from Christians But we couenanted not to pay the nine piastri to our Muccaro till our iourney was ended onely giuing one piastro into his hands for earnest and pretending that we would pay the rest at Haleppo where we were to receiue money left they thinking that we had store of crowns with vs should practise any treason or oppression against vs. This Piastro we gaue him in hand to buy meat for his beasts and the other eight we paid after at Haleppo and besides gaue him of free gift a zechine for his faithfull seruice to vs by the way We were to take our iourney with the Carauan going from Tripoli to Haleppo The Turkes call a Carauan the company of Merchants passengers and driuers of loaded Camels keeping together for safety against Theeues and vsing to lodge in the open field For in Turkey they make iourneies in great troopes neither did I euer see any ride alone but onely a horseman of the Armie and that very rarely Vpon Saturday the two and twentie of Iune we went out of Tripoli at the North Gate and passed ouer a Bridge of the foresaid Brooke and from eight of the clocke till Noone we passed along the Sea-shoare and ouer high Mountaines then ouer an vntilled Plaine seeing not one Village nor so much as the least house by the way Then at last comming to a little shade of Fig-trees we rested there the heate of the day and fed vpon such victuals as we had while our Muccaro and the rest gaue meate to their beasts At three of the clock in the after-noone we went forward in the like way and late in the euening we came to a Village neere which we lodged in the open field in a pleasant plot of grasse neere the banke of a Riuer planted with some trees Vpon Sunday wee rose early and for two howers space passed a Promontory of the Sea then turning towards the Land wee passed through wilde and vntilled Hilles and plaine fields and at Noone we rested vnder the shaddow of some Brambles refreshing our selues with meate and sleepe and giuing meate to our Asses At three in the afternoone wee went forward and passed by the Castle Huss in which some say Iob dwelt and which they say was possessed by the French while they had the Kingdome of Ierusalem Also we passed by a Monastery of Saint George then possessed by Christian Friers and seated in a pleasant Valley yeelding trees of Figs and Oliues And towards euening we incamped as I may terme it in the open field at the foot of a high Mountaine They say Iob did of old possesse this Territorie and that not farre hence in the way leading to Damascus there is a Citie now called Hemps and of old called Huss which the Christian Inhabitants to this day call the Citie of Iob and the Valley not far distant the Valley of Huss and the Turkes haue built a Mosche or Church in this Citie which they thinke to be built vpon the very ruines of the house wherein Iob dwelt and that his body was carried from hence to Constantinople Others obiect that according to the Scriptures Iob could not dwell here because they write
neere a poore Village And our Muccaro bought vs some fresh victuals in the Village according to the manner of Turky where the very Cities yeeld no Innes Vpon Saturday towards euening wee set forward and rode that night ouer a large Plaine and next day after Sunne-rise wee came to Antioch a citie of Asia famous for the Patriarchate and by Histories sacred and prophane Vpon the east-side and vpon the top of a high Mountaine lye great ruines of the old walles and houses whence the seat of the citie declineth to the Plaine on the West side In which Plaine our Carauan rested the heat of this day neere the pleasant and large Fountaine of water wherin the Scriptures record so many to haue been baptized together as first in this place the faithfull had the name of Christians This Fountaine hath faire building and seemes of old to haue been very stately and here wee pitched our Tents in the middest of the Gardens of this Plaine within the walles For howsoeuer the ruines of the walles shew that of old the circuit of the citie was very large yet scarce the hundreth part thereof was now filled with houses Vpon the West side without the walles the citie is all compassed with a Riuer and a great Fen and vpon the East-side with Mountaines which situation makes it naturally strong Here first wretched I perceiued the imminent danger of my most deare brothers death which I neuer suspected til this day much lesse had any iust cause to feare it A Turke in this Carauan troubled with the same disease of a Flux went to the ground more then twentie times each nights iourney and yet liued whereas my brother only three or foure times descended from his Mule to that purpose which filled vs with good hope But here first I learned by miserable experience that nothing is worse for one troubled with the Flux then to stop or much restraine the course therof For my brother stopping this naturall purge by taking Red wine and Marmelat experienced men did attribute all too late his death to no other thing I could not hire a horse-litter by any endeuour of our Muccaro nor for any price though I offered an incredible summe for that or like commoditie to carrie him and we thought it very dangerous to stay here among the Turkes after our Carauan departed especially since Scanderona was but fiue and twenty miles distant where wee should haue the commoditie to lodge with an Englishman and so to get all necessaries for his recouerie Therefore vpon Sunday in the euening wee put all our prouisions in one of the foresaid couered chaires or cradles caried by the Camell and made my brother a bed in the other cradle where as we thought he might commodiously rest And I promised the Muccaro halfe a piastro for euery time my brother should descend from the Camell to ease himselfe for wee were to ride before with the horsemen and hee was now to come behind with the Camels So we set forward and my selfe twice in the night and once towards morning left the horsemen and rode back to my brother to know how he fared and when hee gaue mee no answere I returned to the horsemen thinking that he slept Then towards morning I was so afflicted with my wonted desire of sleepe as I thought an howers rest worth a Kings ransome Therefore my selfe and Master Iasper Tyrant our louing consort rode a good pace to the Village Byland where we were to pitch our Tents that we might make all things ready to receiue him But within short space our Muccaro running to our Tent and telling me that hee had left my brother ready to giue vp his last breth in the first house of the Village seemed to say to me Goe quickly and hang thy selfe With all possible speede I ran to this house imbraced my dying brother and confounded with sorrow vnderstood from his mouth how farre the euents of our nights iourney had been contrary to our hope For whereas my selfe aduised him to leaue his Mule and lie in the chaire vpon the Camels backe he told me that he was shaken in pieces with the hard pace of the Camell And whereas I had offered the Muccaro halfe a piastro for each time hee should light to ease himselfe he told mee that he had often asked this fauour of the Muccaro but could neuer obtaine it he excusing himselfe by feare to be left behind the Carauan for a prey to theeues And whereas the Camels hinder parts being higher then the fore parts I had laied my brothers head towards the hinder parts and raised it as high as I could with pillowes and clothes for his better ease it happened which I being ignorant of the way could not foresee that we all the night ascending mountaines his feet were farre higher then his head whereupon he told me that most part of the night he had lien in a trance which was the cause that he could not answer me at such times as I came to inquire of his health Thus mischiefe lighted vpon mischiefe to make my wretched state most miserable Why should I vse many words in a case from the remembrance whereof my mind abhorreth Therefore I will say in a word My most deere brother Henry vpon Munday the fourth of Iuly after the old stile the yeere of our Lord 1596 and of his age the seuen and twentieth died in my armes after many louing speeches and the expressing of great comfort in his Diuine meditations The Turkes presently snatched all things that were his as belonging to the Great Turke yea my selfe cast his shirts with many other things of good value and whatsoeuer I could see that was his out of the Tent into the Turkes hands and as a man halfe out of my wits could indure to see nothing that might renew the bitter remembrance of him The Turkish Officers in the Great Turkes name seazed vpon all the goods of Sir Iohn Spencer which Master Dorington sent with vs as if they had belonged to my brother neither could they be released without great bribes after the contrary was proued Presently I sent for the English Factor lying at Scanderona who scarcely obtained with the paying of fiue zechines to haue my brothers body buried in the open fields besides the Ianizares Turkes and Moores came in seuerall swarmes to me in this miserable case threatning to hinder his buriall or to dig him vp after hee was buried except I would satisfie their insatiable extortions And had not the foresaid English Factor taken vpon him to satisfie these people and taken vp my purse full of zechines which I cast among them in a rage surely for my part I had willingly giuen my selfe and all that I had with me to them for a prey One thing aboue measure afflicted me which I thinke Iob himselfe could not haue suffered namely that while my selfe and my brother were in our last imbraces and mournefull speeches the rascall
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
bee an vnwary stranger wanting friends and when they haue done a murther they flie without any impediment to the confines of neighbour Princes liuing there as banished men for a time vpon roberies till they can obtaine pardon which escape a stranger cannot so easily make But if they haue a quarrell with Italians vsing like practises it is a thing most ridiculous to see with what proud bragging they thus walke armed and guarded and with what warinesse and foolish tumult the contrary parts thus walke about the Citie keeping as farre the one from the other as is possible till by-the intercession of friends or authority of the Magistrate they be made friends which must be done with infinite cerimonies and cautions of honour no way blemished but by themselues Whereas a stranger in Italy may not without licence from the Magistrate weare a sword in their Cities no nor so much as a dagger either in the Cities or high-waies of the Popes State How much lesse will it bee permitted to any stranger thus to arme himselfe if hee would since wee are of opinion that it were better once to dye then alwaies to feare death euen in our priuate chambers and to be continually so loded with iron Armes as a man can hardly walke or breath Therefore a stranger must be very wary not to haue a quarrell and if any be thrust vpon him he must be no lesse wary to shun the danger by leauing the place or City in Italy Neither would I aduise a stranger to sight for his money if hee be assaulted by theeues called Banditi in Italy except the way from Rome to Naples where hee hath a guard of souldiers to ioyne with since they are men of desperate fortune and when they assaile the passenger haue not only their bodies armed as aforesaid but carry Muskets and haue ready meanes of escape euer lying vpon the confines of Princes But in my opinion he shall doe better to carry letters of credit for receiuing money in great Cities as hee passeth and willingly to yeeld them that which hee hath about him especially since they vse not to kill any not resisting being content with the spoile of them Yet in generall for Italy I remember not that euer I liued in any place where fewer wrongs and causes of quarrell are offered then there for they haue a Prouerb Portarispetto a tuttie no' hauer ' paur a dinessuno Giue good respect to all Feare neither great nor small So as the Italians offer mutuall honour more then is due and nothing is more easie then to abstaine from words of reproch which a ciuill man should hate aswell in respect of himselfe as others The chiefe cause of quarrels there is either making loue to other mens priuate concubines or the keeping of a priuate concubine to a mans selfe For it is prouerbially said Chi Asini caccia e donne mena Non è mai senzaguai pena Who driues an Asse and leades a Whore Hath toile and sorrow euermore And the stranger who will intangle himselfe in this mischiefe seemes worthy to beare the punishment since there is plenty of grasse in the open fields though a man neuer breake into inclosed pastures As in Italy so in Germany Bohemia the Low-Countries and Denmark the Magistrate neuer pardons any murther nor man-slaughter vpon hot bloud nor him that killes in single combat vpon those termes which some call honourable neither is there any way to scape punishment but by flight And this is common to all these Nations that onely the Officers of Iustice either stop or lay hands vpon a Murtherer or any offender against the Lawes And this makes great respect of persons for a poore man hauing killed one that hath rich friends shall bee pursued with light horses while either not at all or slowly they follow others and giue way to their escaping Let a stranger consider how difficult his flight will be in a strange Country and how hotly he is like to be pursued The Germans are apt to quarrell and sometimes they fight after their fashion which is a slash or two with the edge of the sword and if one of their fingers bee hurt they straight shake hands and go to the Tauerne to drinke but to stab or make a thrust is vulgarly called cin schelemstucke that is the act of a villaine and the very iudges esteeme it a most abominable act It is ridiculous that hee which is wounded neuer so flightly though it be at the first incounter straight shakes his aduersary by the hand and both returne againe to the Citie where he that is hurt payes the Wine to the other ãâã new or renewed league of friendship In Germany Bohemia and Denmarke no man wil part a quarrel nor put himself betweene them that are at variance Neither will they doe it in disputations that I may mingle iest with cusnest where the argument is seldome or neuer taken vp by the Moderator for in truth they are not so fierce in any of these kinds but that they can compose the matter themselues The little danger in their manner of fighting makes their quarrels very frequent In these places as euery where it belieues a Traueller with his best iudgement to shun quarrels and if he must needs aduenture his body yet to forecast meanes of escape after victory Besides the lye and such words as we account most disgracefull with many in Germany are made familiar speech and clounish rudenes esteemed for the neighbor vertue For the Cochmen when they are drunke will easily giue ill words especially to a stranger and they will not stay a minute for him either in the Inne if he be not ready to take Coach or by the way if he haue any necessary cause to light Herewith thou being incensed thinkest him worthy to be strucken but the Magistrate thinks not so and will rather beare with him his partakers if they tumultiously reuenge thy wrong Who would not with silence and fained deafenes slip his necke out of such base and dangerous brawles A stranger needes not feare theeues in Germany for they are most rare but if any such assault him let him defend himselfe the best hee can for they alwaies kill those whom they rob either out of their nature apt to insult vpon the conquered or because their punishments are most cruell by the Law neither is there any pardon for capitall crimes The Sweitzers for the most part Souldiers and stiffe drinkers yet seldome or neuer haue any quarrels because the Lawes impose great penalties vpon those that offer iniury and the seuere Magistrate neuer spareth them there being through all Cities and Villages with most wise and religious carefulnes officers appointed who particularly intend the execution of this iustice Theenes or murtherers are very seldome or neuer heard of among them aswell for the seueritie of the Law and the serious execution thereof as because they are industrious at home and to shun pouerty are more inclined
thereof considering due circumstances are to be much admired and preferred before any in the World Munster affirmeth that the Romans built in Germany beyond the Riuers Danow Rheine more stately Cities then are to be seene in other parts thereof But for my part I would say that Nurnberg Dresden Brestawe the chiefe City of Silesia and the Cities vpon the Sea Coast towards the North called Hans stetten that is free Cities are much fairer and farre more magnificently built then those that he nameth The Cities within land excepting Ertford those of Hessen and some like which are built of timber clay and plaster or of durt and couered with tiles of wood are built of great polished and carued free stones foure or fiue stories high with an high roofe bearing windowes and couered with tiles Some of the foresaid Cities on the Sea Coast are built of free stone but for the most part of bricke and in the lower fore roome being commonly large they haue great dores like gates towards the streetes which being open by day expose to the eies of passengers the bright puter dishes and other like vessels of tin and brasse which vse to be set forth in the vpper end of that roome And not onely the priuate houses but the publike streetes are notable for clenlinesse vniformity and beauty The houses and buildings vpon the Alpes excepting some few Cities which are equall to the foresaid built within land as Insprucke lying in the way betweene Augsburg and Padoua are built much lower most commonly of freestone and couered with tiles of wood and for three parts of the yeere they are continually couered with snow and as through all Germany the casements of the windowes are little so in these parts they are much lesse so as a man can hardly put his head out of them and the windowes on the Inside are all to be shut close with woodden windowes they vsing all possible art to keepe the cold out and to retaine the heat of the stoaues within Noblemens Castles in Germany are for the most part answerable to the building of the Cities within Land but they shew more antiquity and are more built for strength then beauty And the more stately Pallaces of Cities and these Castles in some places as my selfe obserued at Augsburg but very rarely are couered with copper which Germany yeeldeth but neuer with leade whereof they haue none of their owne The building of houses in the Townes is for matter like to that of the Cities but lower and the Villages for the most part are built of timber clay and plaster or durt and couered with tiles of wood or the worst of them with straw In generall at the most frequented dores of euery house they haue ropes that men without by the ringing of a bell may be let in and those within may open the dores by the pulling of a roape without going to them and the dores likewise by waights are made to shut of themselues at the heeles of him that comes in without the helpe of any hand The windowes in generall are of a thicke glasse with little casements closed in wood not in iron which they seldome open that the stoaues may be kept warme To conclude Germany yeelds to no place in the World for the number or stately building of Cities yet so as respecting the greatnesse thereof it hath not so frequent and little distant Cities as Netherland and other lesse Dominions haue Among the Cities of Sweitzerland the building of Bern is most vniforme and faire being of freestone with arched Cloysters towards the streete as in some parts of Italy vnder which men walke drie footed after the greatest raine but most of the Cities as of the Townes and Villages are fairely built with timber clay and plaster and commonly are seated on the declining sides of Mountaines and hils Of the last sort are the houses of Boemerland saue that the wals and foundations are made of whole bodies of trees as they are cut downe euen couered with the bark and ioined together with clay and morter And these houses are generally couered with tiles of wood not with slates In the vnited Prouinces the houses are most of bricke aswell in Cities as in Villages and so vniforme as if they had all beene built at a time and by the same workemen The fronts of them towards the streetes are commonly narrow excepting some few that are broade and high and so are built inward in length with narrow windowes and nothing at all cast out from the wals and the roofes haue windowes for vse of the roomes being couered with tiles or peeces of wood in the same forme At Leyden and Delph the houses are built very high of many stories and the roofes are steepe and haue also windowes for vse At the Hage being a most pleasant Village where the States keepe their residence the building is like but the Castle in which Count Maurice dwelt and some few Gentlemens houses are built of freestone and in some outlanes many houses are couered with straw The wares of Merchants the vessels of tinne and brasse being kept most cleane and like ornaments lie open in the lowest and greatest roome by large dores to passengers view as I formerly said of the Cities on the Sea coast of Germany They build with very slender timber so as the new built threaten falling and vpon little force totter and shake The floares are paued with plaster boards being more costly and apt to take fire And these floares are daily cast ouer with sand to keepe them from durt onely by sweeping away the sand at night In the Kingdome of Denmarke there is onely one Citie compassed with walles called Kopenhagen in which as in the other little Cities Townss and Villages the houses of the Citizens are for the most part of timber clay and plaster seldome of freestone The Kings Castle there is built of free stone but with no magnificence His second Castle at Elsenure is very stately built of freestone and also strongly fortified to command one side of the straight sea where great tribute is exacted of all ships entring or going out of the Sound In Poland there be but few Cities for so large a Kingdome but the houses of them are built of free stone much like to the Inland Cities of Germany saue that in some places the houses are arched towards the streete like the Cloysters of Monasteries Some of the houses in the Villages are of timber clay and plaster but the greatest part of meere durt and couered with straw Few of the Noble mens houses are of free stone but the greater part of timber clay and plaster The Italians are exceeding rich in their owne commodities and by trafficke which the Gentlemen and Princes scorne not to vse and they spending little in house-keeping or apparrell all their pride is to build stately houses water Counduits Fountaines and to haue rich Iewels
other Cities is commonly of timber clay and plaster sometimes of freestone and foure or fiue roofes high whereof each as it is higher so is more proiected into the streete much darkening the same and causing the raine to fall into the middest thereof The streetes are no broader then for two Carts to meete and passe one by the other Almost vnder euery house is a Cellar to lay vp wine Perry Cyder and alll kinds of drinke and few of the windowes are glazed which are also darkened with grates of wood the rest are altogether open to be shut by night with windowes of wood The building of the Villages is like ours in England commonly of timber and clay and thatched ouer The Gentlemens houses are built like those in the Cities whereof I haue spoken but the Pallaces of great Lords for the most part are stately built of free stone yet more beautifull and stately are the Kings Pallaces commonly of free stone curiously carued with pillers of marble and sometimes of brickes with pecces of marble in the parts most open to the eye Among these Pallaces of the King that of Fontainebleau is the most stately and magnificent that I did see and most pleasant for the gardens and sweete Aire Caesar in his Commentaries saith that buildings of England were then like those of France Now at London the houses of the Citizens especially in the chiefe streetes are very narrow in the front towards the streete but are built fiue or sixe roofes high commonly of timber and clay with plaster and are very neate and ommodious within And the building of Citizens houses in other Cities is not much vnlike this But withall vnderstand that in London many stately Pallaces built by Noblemen vppon the Riuer Thames doe make a very great shew to them that passe by water and that there be many more like Pallaces also built towards Land but scattered and great part of them in backe lanes and streetes which if they were ioined to the first in good order as other Cities are built vniformely they would make not onely faire streetes but euen a beautifull City to which few might iustly be preferred for the magnificence of the building Besides that the Aldermens and chiefe Citizens houses howsoeuer they are stately for building yet being built all inward that the whole roome towards the streets may be reserued for shoppes of Tradesmen make no shew outwardly so as in truth all the magnificence of London building is hidden from the view of strangers at the first sight till they haue more particular view thereof by long abode there and then they will preferre the buildings of this famous City to many that appeare more stately at the first sight Great part of the Townes and Villages are built like the Citizens houses in London saue that they are not so many stories high nor so narrow in the front towards the streete Others of them are built in like sort of vnpolished small stones and some of the Villages in Lincolneshire and some other Countries are of meere clay and couered with thatch yet euen these houses are more commodious within for clenlinesse lodging and diet then any stranger would thinke them to be Most of the houses in Cities and Townes haue Cellers vnder them where for coolenesse they lay Beere and Wine Gentlemens houses for the most part are built like those in the Cities but very many of Gentlemens and Noblemens Pallaces aswell neere London as in other Countries are stately built of bricke and free stone whereof many yeelde not in magnificence to like buildings of other Kingdomes as Homby built by S r Christopher Hatton Tybals lately belonging to the Earle of Salisbury seated neere London the Earle of Exceter his house neer Stamford by which Pallaces lying neere the high way a stranger may iudge of many other like stately buildings in other parts The Kings Pallaces are of such magnificent building so curious art and such pleasure and beauty for gardens and fountaines and are so many in number as England need not enuie any other Kingdome therein Among them being manie a stranger may see neere London the King Pallaces of Hampton Court of Richmond of Greenewich of Nonsuch of Otelands of Schene of Winsore and in London the Pallace of White Hall In Scotland the Citie Edenborough is fairlie built of vnpolished stone but the galleries of timber built vpon the fronts of the houses doe rather obscure then adorne them And the Kings Pallace at one end and the fortified Castle at the other end of the City are more statelie built then the rest but all the beautie of the Citie confirsts of one large streete the by lanes being few and full of beggery The houses in Villages and scattered in the Countrie are like to those in England but the Gentlemens and Noblemens houses are nothing so frequent nor so stately built as the better sort of the English Neither are their I ownes and Cities in number building or pleasantnesse comparable to those in England Lastly the Villages of clay couered with straw are much more frequent then in England and farre lesse commodious within Among the Kings Pallaces that at Edenburg and that of Sterling for the building and Fawkland for the pleasure of hunting are the chiefe The houses of the Irish Cities as Corke Galoway and Lymrick the fairest of them for building are of vnwrought free stone or flint or vnpolished stones built some two stories high and couered with tile The houses of Dublin and Waterford are for the most part of timber clay and plaster yet are the streetes beautifull and the houses commodious within euen among the Irish if you pardon them a little slouenlinesse proper to the Nation In generall the houses very seldome keepe out raine the timber being not well seasoned and the walles being generally combined with clay only not with morter of lime tempered The Irish haue some quarries of Marble but only some few Lords and Gentlemen bestow the cost to polish it Many Gentlemen haue Castles built of free stone vnpolished and of flints or little stones and they are built strong for defence in times of rebellion for which cause they haue narrow staires and little windowes and commonly they haue a spatious hall ioyning to the Castle and built of timber and clay wherein they eate with their Family Neither are many of these gentle mens houses void of filth and slouenlinesse For other Irish dwellings it may be said of them as Caesar said of the old Brittanes houses They call it a Towne when they haue compassed a skirt of wood with trees cut downe whether they may retire themselues and their cattle For the meere barbarous Irish either sleepe vnder the canopy of heauen or in cabbines watled and couered with turfe The Germans long inioying settled peace the French and the Nitherlanders for many yeeres distracted with warres haue many Cities strongly fortified with ditches and earthen walles
it aboundeth with Wood but towards the Sea they burne Turfe made of earth and also burne Cow dung 3 The County of Hanaw hath the Principality of Arscot vnited to the Dukedome of Brabant by which the Dukes sonne hath the title of Prince The chiefe Cities of this County are Mons and Valinciennes It hath mines yeelding Leade and Marble of many colours and a good kind of Coales 4 The County of Zeland is by situation the first of the Vnited Prouinces consisting of many Ilands whereof seuen are principall and the chiefe is Walcherne the chiefe Citie whereof is Midleburg famous for trafficke and the Staple for Spanish and French Wines Neere that is the City Vlishing strongly fortified being the chiefe of the Forts then ingaged to the Crowne of England and kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of Sir Robert Sidney Knight for the second Fort ingaged to England lyes in another Iland and is called Brill being then kept by an English Garrison vnder the command of the Lord Barrows All these Ilands are fertile and yeeld excellent Corne more plentifully then any other Prouince so as one aker thereof is said to yeeld double to an aker of Brabant But they haue no sweete water nor good aire and for want of wood burne turffe They take plenty of sea-fishes which they Salt and carry into other Countries Madder for dying of wooll growes there plentifully which likewise they export and grow rich by selling these commodities as likewise Spanish and French Salt and like trafficke 5 The County of Holland called of old Battauia and inhabited by the Chatti as Tacitus writes is in situation the second of the vnited Prouinces but the first in dignity The Cities whereof are Amstelrodam famous for trafficke Rhoterodam where Erasmus was borne Leyden an Vniuersity Harlem Dort the staple for the Rhenish Wines and Delph all very faire Cities And I may not omit the most pleasant Village of the Hage called Grauenhage because the Counts Court was there and it is now the seate of the vnited States wanting onely wals to make it numbred among the most pleasant Cities being no doubt a Village yeelding to none for the pleasant seat This Prouince doth so abound with lakes pooles of water and artificiall ditches as it giues passage by water as well as by land to euery City and poorest Village which are infinite in number And these ditches itoweth for the most part to the Riuer Rheine For the Rheine of old running towards Leyden did fall a little below it into the Sea but at this day by reason the Land is low and subiect to ouerflowings it hath changed the bed and at Lobecum in the Dukedome of Cleue deuides it selfe into many branches The first runnes to Arnheim a City of Gelderland then to Vaua Rena and Battouodurum where Lecca receiues his waters and takes away the name from the Rheine yet so as a little branch thereof still holds the name of Rheine which running to Mastricht there deuides into two one whereof fals into Vecta and so into an arme of the Sea neere Munda the other runnes by Woerden and after a long course necre Leyden is deuided into fiue little branches whereof three fall into a lake and the fourth turnes to Renoburg and leeseth it selfe in mountaines of sand neere the Village Catwicke I remember that the water falling through Leyden is called Rheine so as I thinke it probable that all the standing waters lying betweene the seuerall pastures there come from the Rheine after it hath lost the name I said that the Rheine at Battouodurum is called Lecca which runnes to Culenburg and to Viana where in a ditch is the fountaine of Isala which runnes to ãâã Thus to omit the little branch at Battouodurum the first branch of the Rheine is lost in the Riuers Lecca and Isala The second branch bends from Lobecum to Neomagum and fals into the Brooke Meroutus taking the name of the old Family of Kings among the Gals where is an old Castle compassed with the Brooke and of the same name then running to Dort in Holland it receiues the foresaid Lecca and Isala and so neere Rhoterodame fals into the Mosa and vnder that name fals neere Brill into the German Sea The third branch of the Rheine running from Lobecum within two miles of Arnheime fals into the ditch of Drusus or rather of Germanicus and so runnes to Dewsborows the City of Drusus where it receiues the old Isala springing in Westphalia and by the name of Isala or Isell running to Zutphane and then to Deuentry fals into Tatus at Amstelrodame and by an arme of the Sea is carried to West-Freesland and so fals into the German Sea neere the Iland Flye 5 To returne to my purpose Holland is little in circuite but abounds with people and dwellings and being poore of it selfe is most rich by industrie and wanting both Wine and Corne yet furnisheth many Nations with both Neither Wooll nor Flax grow there but of both brought in to them they make linnen clothes much prised and also Woollen both carried to the very Indies I need not speake of Holland Cheeses so vulgarly knowne and much esteemed Lastly Holland is famous for the traffique of all commodities and the Romans so highly esteemed the Fortitude and faithfulnes of the old Battani as they had a Band of them for their Guard 6 The County of Zutphane is accompted part of Gelderland and subdued by the States Arinie was ioyned to the vnited Prouinces in the yeere 1591. 7 The County of Namures so called of the Cheese Citie hath Mines of Iron and plenty of stony Coale contrarie to all other Coales in that it is quenched by the infusion of Oyle It hath also an ill smell which they take away by the sprinckling of Salt and it burnes more cleere hauing water cast vpon it This County hath also quarries of Free-stone and of Marble of diuers colours 8 The Dukedome of Luxenburg hath the name of the chiefe Citie and the inhabitants of the vpper part are Germanes but they of the lower parts are like the French in language and Manners 9 The Dukedom of Brabant hath faire Cities namely Antwerp most famous before the ciuil War because Maximilian of Austria brought thither froÌ Bruges in Flanders the famous traffique of all Nations by a ditch drawne to Sluce onely to bee failed vpon at the flowing of the Sea tides At this day forsaken of Merchants it lies ouergrowne with grasse and the said trafficke inricheth Holland and the vnited Prouinces The next City is Brissell of old the seate of the Dukes and now of the Spanish Gouernours Then Louan a famous Vniuersity Then Mechlin subiect to the vnited States Then Bergen-ap-zome a fortified City at this time committed to the custody of Sir Thomas Morgan Knight with an English Garrison The Inhabitants of this Dukedome were of old called Tungri 10 The Dukedome of Limburg hath Mastricht for the chiefe City
the Bishoprick of Licge pertaines to it wherein the City of Liege is the Bishops seate and the territory thereof yeelds a little quantity of a small wine and hath Mines yeelding a little Iron some leade and brimstone and a very little quantity of good gold The Mountaines yeeld a black Alablaster with marble and other stones especially stony coales in great quantity which being there found at first are now called generally Liege Coales 11 The Dukedome of Gelderland was of old inhabited by the Menappij and Sieambri and aboundeth with excellent pastures and meadowes so as great Heards of Cattle brought thither out of Denmarke to be sold are for great part fatted there The chiefe City is Nimmengen the second Harduike a fortified City subiect to the vnited States and the third Arnheim also subiect to them 12 The Territory of West-Freessand is diuided as Holland with artificiall ditches and aboundeth with eocellent pastures for fatting of the greatest heards of Cattle and yeeldeth it selfe all kinds of cattle of extraordinary bignesse as Horses of Freesland vulgarly knowne It hath many Cities where of the chiefe are Lewerden Dockam Fronikar an Vniuersity and Harlingen not to speake of nine other Townes fortified with wals and ditcbes This Territory is subiect or associated to the vnited States 13 The Territory of Groningen made part of Freesland by Cosmagraphers is also subiect to the States and hath the name of the chiefe City strongly fortified and seated in a fenny soyle 14 The Territory of Vtrecht is also associated vnder the same vnited States whose chiefe and very pleasant City is called Vtrecht 15 The Territory of Transisole vulgarly called De land ouer Ysseli the Land beyond Yssell is also associated to the vnited States whereof the chiefe City is Deuentry which besieged by the States Army in the yeere 1591 was then subdued and it lies neerer to the Sea It hath another City called swoll The vnited Prouinces of Netherland through which onely I did passe haue a most intemperate Aire the Winter cold being excessiue and the Summers heat farre exceeding the ordinary heate of that clime The reason of the cold is that the Northerne winds of themselues ordinarily cold doe here in a long course on all sides glide vpon the German Sea thereby gathering farre greater cold and so rush into those plaine Prouinces no where stopped either by mountaines or woods there being no Mountaines scarce any hils no woods scarce any groues to hinder them from violent passage with their vttermost force Like reason may be giuen for the heate For the same open Plaine no way shaddowed from the beames of the Sunne by opposition of Woods or Mountaines must needs in Summer be subiect to the heate of the Sunne and winds from land Adde that in Winter the frequent Riuers Lakes and Pooles or standing waters in finitely increase the coldnesse of the aire These waters aswell running as standing are almost all Winter frosen ouer with a thicke ice so as they will beare some hundreths of young men and women sliding vpon them with pattins according to their custome Yea the Arme of the Sea called Zwidersea lying within land betweene Holland and Freseland though it be large and deepe hauing only two flats or shoales yet being compassed with Ilands and the Continent is many times in Winter so frosen ouer as Victualers erect Tents in the middest of it hauing Beere and Wine and fier made vpon iron furnaces to refresh such as passe vpon sledges or sliding vpon iron patterns from one shoare to the other This cold is the cause why their sheepe and cattell are kept in stables to bring forth their young And howsoeuer the same be done in Italy subiect to great heate yet it is not of necessitie as here but out of the too great tendernesse of the Italians towards the few cattle they haue And this is the cause that how soeuer they vse not hot stoaues as the Germans doe yet the Weomen as well at home as in the Churches to driue away cold put vnder them little pannes of fier couered with boxes of wood boared full of holes in the top And this sordid remedy they carry with them by the high way in waggons which the Danes or Mosconites vse not though oppressed with greater cold onely some of the more noble Weomen disliking this remedy choose rather to weare breeches to defend them from the cold In this distemper of Aire it cannot be expected that there should be plenty of flowers and summer fruites No doubt in regard of the fatnesse of the soile watered with frequent ditches and through the foresaid heat of the Summer they might haue plenty of flowers and fruits were it not impossible or very difficult to preserue them from perishing by the winters cold and were not the Inhabitants carelesse of such dainties though in later times as they haue admitted forraigne manners so luxury hath more power with them then formerly it had I haue oft seene one Apple sold for a blancke and those great Cherries which are brought into England grow not here but in Flaunders and the Territories within Land They haue abundance of Butter Cheese and Rootes and howsoeuer they haue not of their owne full sufficiency of other things to maintaine life yet they abound with the same brought from other parts Some prouinces as the Bishoprick of Vtrecht yeeld corne to be transported but in generall the vnited Prouinces of which only I discourse in this place haue not sufficient corne for their owne vse yet by traffick at Dantzke they furnish themselues many other nations therewith They haue little plenty of Riuer fish excepting onely Eales but in the Mosa as it fals from Dort to the sea they haue plenty of Salmons and other fish which fishing did of old yeeld great profit to the Prince and Merchants And for Sea fishes salted and dried they make great trafficke therewith My selfe lying for a passage in the Iland Fly did see great quantity of shell-fish sold at a very low rate Great heards of Oxen and Calues are yeerely brought into these parts out of the Dukedome of Holst vnited to the Kingdome of Denmarke in which parts they feed most on dry and salt meates and these Heards are fatted in the rich pastures of Gelderland and Freesland There is great abundance of Sea Fowles especially in West-Freesland and they want not land Fowles They carefully nourish Storkes as presaging happinesse to an Aristocraticall gouernement making them nests on the tops of publike houses and punishing any that driue them away or trouble them In which kind also they preserue Hernes making nests in those groues which are onely in few Cities They haue a race of heauy Horses and strong which they sell in sorraigne parts vsing onely their Mares to draw Waggons and for like vses at home The Prouinces on the Sea Coast as I formerly said burne their owne earth by the frequent digging whereof they say the Sea or lake
vpon the straight of the Sicilian Sea Italy worthily called the Queene of Nations can neuer be sufficiently praised being most happy in the sweete Ayre the most fruitfull and pleasant fields warme sunny hus ãâã thickets shaddowing groues Hauens of the Sea watering brookes baths wine and Oyle for delight and most safe forts or defences as well of the Sea as of the Alpes Neither is any part of Europe more inhabited more adorned with Cities and Castles or to be compared thereunto for tillage and husbandry The Prouinces thereof are numbred 14. First beyond the Appenine towards the Tyrrhene Sea lie fiue Prouinces Liguria Tuscia Campania suodeuided into Vmbria Latium and Campania the happy Lucania vulgarly ãâã and Calabria the vpper and the lower Also on this side the Appenine towards the Adriaticke Sea lie fiue Prouinces going backe from the East to the West Salentinum Apulia Samnium vulgarly Abrotzo Ptcaenum vulgarly Marca Ancomtana and Flaminia vulgarly Romandiola whereof part beyond the brooke Rubico reacheth into Gallia Cisalpina Againe in the part called of old Gallia Cisalpina are foure Prouinces Lombards Marca Trenisana Forum Iulij and Histria 1 The chiefe City in Liguria is Genoa a free City or at least hauing the shew of liberty to which all this Prouince is subiect which heth all vpon the Tyrrbene Sea and is now vulgarly called La Riuiera di Genoa being of all Italy the most rocky and barren tract yet whether by Husbandmens art and labour or by lying vpon the South Sun I know not but sure I am and well remember that passing that way in the beginning of Winter I tooke great pleasure in the plenty and goodnesse of the fruites thereof Besides that all Men extoll the fertility of Mount Ferrate a part of Liguria inclosed and watered by the Riuers Tanoro and Po. 2 Tuscia had the name of Franckensence which they vsed for Incense and was formerly called Hetruria at this day named Toscana It was an old Dukedome erected by the Longobards and after was deuided into many territories of free Cities and Commonwealths the liberty whereof namely of Florence Pisa and Sienna the Family of Medici inuaded in the time of the Emperour Charles the fifth and now possesseth all Toscany with title of great Duke onely the City of Lucca still preseruing the old liberty of that Commonwealth It hath very many Cities of which these are the chiefe Florence Pisa an Vniuersity Sienna and Lucca which still is free City 3 Campania vulgarly Campagna is subdeuided as I said into Latium Vmbria and Campania the happy Latium hath the name of the Fable of Saturne lurking there in banishment and it is the Fountaine of the famous Latin tongue and the head City thereof is Rome which City together with the whole Prouince is at this day subiect to the Pope the Prouince is vulgarly called Campagna di Roma The second part is Vmbria which was held part of Latium lieth beyond Rome amidst the Mount Apenine of whose shaddow it had the name of Vmbria but is now called the Dukedome of Spoleto to which dignity it was raised of old by the Lombards and it is subiect to the Pope of Rome The Cities thereof are Volgineum Assisium Spoletum Perusium and Otricoli The third part is Campania the happy vulgarly called Terra di Lauorae hauing the name of the most fertile Plaine of Capua seated vpon the banke of the Riuer Volturnus and to that Citie it was of old subiect but at this day it is the chiefe Prouince of the Neapolitan Kingdome the head Citie whereof is Naples of old called Parthenope and Dysiarchia now adorned with stately Pallaces of Dukes Earles and Gentlemen especially those of the Duke of Grauina and the Prince of Salerno these Noble men dwelling there the greatest part of the yeere The Capuan delights corrupting the Army of Hanniball are knowne to all the World This Prouince is an earthly Paradise where Bacchus and Ceres striue for principalitie I passe ouer Cuma of old a famous Citie and Linternum famous for the banishment and Sepulcher of Scipio the Africane since at this day onely remaine some ruines of Cuma and scarce any memory of Linternum Necre Suessa is the Mountaine Valerius or Falernus famous for the wine it yeeldeth and the famous Mountaines Gaurus Massicus and Vesunius The Mountaine Vesunius is now called Somma out of the top whereof of old great flames broke out burning the neighbour places in which flames Pliny liuing in the time of Traian was choaked and perished while hee curiously searched the cause of those flames In our age this Mountaine burned and now daily fire breakes out of it Here the beautie of all the World is gathered as it were into a bundle Here be the famous dwellings of the Romans in the Territorie of Napies Here are the Acherusian Fennes the Lake of Auernus the Ditch of Nero the Bridge of Caligula and other wonders celebrated by Poets The Kingdome of Naples is subiect to the King of Spaine which together with the Dukedome of Milan also subiect to him is thought to containe more then halfe Italy besides the Iland of Sicily annexed to this Kingdome whereof this is the chiefe Prouince and the bounds of it reach to the Sea and so lye backward on this side the Apennine towards Samnium where it is confined and diuided from the Mark of Ancona by the Brooke Truento 4 Lucania vulgarly Basilicata is a small Territory the Cities whereof are Folia and Laina 5 Calabria a Prouince of this Kingdome is diuided into the vpper and the lower The vpper is called great Graece being of old inhabited by the Greekes and vsing still that language corrupted with the Italian The Cities thereof famous of old are Rudia where Ennius was borne Croto where Milo was borne who carried an Oxe Tarentum now the chiefe City and Locris The lower Calabria is called Brutium the chiefe City whereof is Reghio so called because Sicily is said to haue been there diuided from Italy by an Earthquake 6 Salentinum vulgarly Terra di Ottranto hath the Cities Ottranto and Brundusium 7 Apulia vulgarly Puglia is diuided into Peucetia and Daunia In Pencetia or Mesapia vulgarly called Terra di Barri are the Cities Basigno and Bitonto In Daunia vulgarly called Puglia Piana are the Cities Mansfredonia Beneuentum made a Dukedome by the Lumbards Asculum and the Village Cannae famous by the old defeate of the Romans And here is the Mountaine Garganus vulgarly called Sant ' Angelo 8 Samnium of old called Aprusium at this day hath the name of Abrozzo where is Sulmo in which Oxid was borne and here the Kingdome of Naples is confined on this side the Apenine Mountaine 9 Picaenum vulgarly Marca Anconitana is subiect to the Pope and hath the name of the chiefe City Ancona so called of the crookednesse of the Hauen which is held the best Hauen of Italy Pesaurum vulgatly Pesaro belongs to this Prouince 10 Flaminia or Romandiola vulgarly Romagna hath
in our Age. The other City is called Chaledon whence was the Chaledonian Boare sung of the Poets 5 The fifth Prouince of Turky is Macedonia of old called Migdonia and Emathea the chiefe City whereof is Thessalonica vulgarly now called Saloniche to the Citizens whereof S. Paul wrote his Epistle The Mountains of this Prouince Olimpus Pelion Ossa are famous by the fables of the Giants Athos is fained to passe the clouds with his top 6. The lower part of Macedonia is called Thessalia or AEmonia of Thessalus the son of AEmon or as others say of Iason the chiefe Towne whereof was Pharsalos whose fields are famous by the victory of Caesar against Pompey 7 Thracia hath faire Cities Trimontium of old called Poneropolis and Philippopolis Adrianopolis and the head City Constantinopolis of old called Bysantium now Stambol seated vpon the Bosphorus of Thracia It hath famous Mountaines Rhodope Mela and Ismarus Vpon Propontis the Thracian Chersonesus or necke of Land lies vpon the Hellespont in which are the Townes Sesto and Callipolis 8 The vpper Mista is deuided into three parts Rascia Bosnia and Seruia and the lower Misia into three parts Bulgaria Wallachia and Moldauia In Bulgaria the Riuer Danubius beginnes to be called Isther which fals into the Euxine Sea with foure strong and three lesser channels 9 Dacia or Transiluania was of old possessed by the Saxons who there built seuen Cities or Castles of which the Prouince is called Septem-Castrensis vulgarly Sieben burgen and of old it belonged to the Kingdome of Hungary but at this day is tributary to the Turks 10 Hungaria so called of the people Hunnt was of old called Fannonia the lower and of right belongs to the German Emperour but of late the Turkes haue subdued the greater part thereof It hath many and strongly fortified Cities as Debrezinum Varadinum Segedinum vulgarly Seget Castrum taken by the Turkes Strigonium vulgarly ãâã taken by the Turkes in the yeere 1543 Alba Regalis at that time also taken by them Quinquecclesiae the feate of the Bishop Buda seated vpon the Danow twice or thrice taken and regained on both sides of old the Kings seate called vulgarly Offen and Pesta seated on the other side of Danow vulgarly called New offen The Hungarian Nation yeelds to none in strength and courage not vnlike the Scithians in language and manners 11 The Ilands of Europe in the Ionian Sea are these Corcira vulgarly Corfu Cephalania and Zaintos in Latin Zacinthus vulgarly now called Zante all three subiect to the Venetians All the Ilands in the AEgean Sea are subiect to the Turke being innumerable among them are the Cyclades so called because they lie round together the chiefe whereof are Cytnos Cyphnos vulgarly Sifano Parus now called Paris famous for the Marble Tenos now called Tenasa Naxus Andros and Delos the chiefe of all where Apollo and Diana were borne Next them are the Sporades so called of lying dispersed among which are Melos Lera Nicaria AEgina and Lemnos vulgarly Stalemine whether they fable that Vulcane was cast downe The Iland Ibea now vulgarly Negroponte is attributed to Greece being separated from the continent with so little distance as it can hardly be named an Iland and it lies close to the City of Athens The Turke hath great part of Asia deuided into Asia the lesser and Asia the greater The lesser is now called Natolia or Anatolia of a Greeke word signifying the East being a kinde of Isthmus or necke of land lying betweene two Seas the Euxine towards the North and the Mediterranean towards the South as it hath the Thracian Bosphorus as passable by an Oxe swimming and Propontis as lying before the Sea and Hellespont the AEgean Sea towards the West and is confined with the Riuer Euphrates towards the East This lesser Asia is all subiect to the Turk and hath 16. Prouinces Bithinia FoÌtus Paphlagonia Capadocia Gallatia Frigia the greater lesser Misia Ionia Charia Lidia Pamphilia Lacaonia Licia Cilicia the lesser Armenia Chomagena 1 Bithinia is at this day called Migtonia and the chiefe Cities thereof are Nicea the Metropolitan Citie famous for the Councell in the yeere 314. of 318. Bishops meeting to beat downe the Arrian heresie and there making the Nicene Creed Lybissa where Hannibal was buried Chalcedo where one of the eight olde Councels was held by 530 Bishops Heraclia Nicomedia Phrasso where Esculapius was born and Bursa seated ouer against Constantinople where some Turkish Emperours lye buried and thither the great Turkes eldest sonne is sent to gouerne or in a kinde of exile for he neuer sees his Father more till he be dead and thither he is sent assoone as hee is circumcised 2. Some accompt Pontus for part of Bithinia 3. Paphlagonia is the third Prouince 4. Capadocia the fourth so called of the Riuer Capadocis and the chiefe Citie is Trapesuntium now called Genech And here the Amazones are said to haue liued from the destruction of Troy to the time of Alexander the Great 5 Frigia the lesser was called Frixis of Frixus sonne to the King of Thebes flying with his sister froÌ his stepmother who mouÌted on a Ramm with a golden Fleece perhaps a Ship so called his sister being drowned giuing the name to Hellespont and he came himself to this part of Asia which at this day is called Palormi yeelds a most excellent Wine and in this Prouince are Illium or Troy the Mountaines Ida and Tinolus and the Riuer Pactolus The ninth Sybilla that prophesied of Christ was a Frigian and here raigned King Tantalus by couetousnesse leesing the vse of his goods of whom the Poets so fable The greater Frigia is within Land 6 The chiefe Cities of Misia are Traianopolis built by Traian and Adramitbium whereof mentiou is made in the seuenteenth Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles and where Gallene was borne who liued 140 yeeres 7 Gallatia or Gallogrecia was possessed by the Gals vnder Brennus whereof the chiefe City is Laodicia and to this Prouince belongs Pisidia the chiefe City whereof is Antiochia 8 The chiefe Cities of Ionia are Ephesus where was the Temple of Diana which Erostrates a Gothe did burne to be famous Miletum where Thales and Anaximines were borne Smyrna 9 The chiefe City of Charia was of old Halicarnassus in which was the Sepulcher of Mausolius the King held for one of the seuen miracles of the World 10 The chiefe City of Lydia was Sardis where Craesus raigned 11 The chiefe City of Pamphilia was Zelotia and in this Prouince is the Mountaine Chimera vpon the wild top whereof Lyons were found as in the middle part yeelding grasse Goates did feed and in the bottome were Serpents whereof came the fiction of the Monster 12 In Lacaonia of old were these cities Iconium Metrapolitan Lysire where Timothy Saint Pauls Disciple was borne and the Riuer Xanthus runnes through this Prouince 13 Licia lies vpoÌ the Sea between Pamphilia Charia 14 Cylicia lies vnder
is more famous then any other in this Prouince whose Region called Saba is celebrated for plenty of Franckensence and it hath woods of Trees which being cut yeeld a frothy humour that turnes into that odour The Cities of happy Arabia are ãâã Tolnaby that is the City of the Prophet because Mahomet is said to haue written his Alcorane there and Mecha famous by Mahomets Sepulcher The Kingdome of Ormus is part of happy Arabia hauing a peculiar King but tributary to the King of Spain as he is King of Portugall the Metrapolitane City whereof rich in trade is called Ormus 3 Babilonia the third part of the Turkish Empire in Asia hath the metrapolitane City of old called by the same name but in these dayes called Bagdet 4 Chaldea the fourth part lies on the East side of Babilonia whereof the chiefe City is called Vhrr in the Scriptures from whence Abraham vpon Gods commandement went to Haran a City of Mesapitania 5 Assiria the fifth part is so called of Assur the sonne of Shem whereof the chiefe Cities are Ninus called Niniue in the Scriptures the old seate of the Kings built by Assur and Aruela famous by the victory of Alexander the Great against Darius the Persian King 6 The Ilands of Asia are the sixth part of the Turkish Empire in Asia the greater and they lie either in the Mediterranean Sea or in the Archipelagus or in the Indian Seas In the Mediterranean Sea lies Candia of old called Creta famous of old for hauing one hundred Cities and by the labyrinth of Daedalus and it was called Creta of the Earths whitenesse from whence great quantity of Muskadine Wines are exported into diuers parts of Europe and it is subiect to the State of Venice Rhodes lieth in the same Sea and was of old famous for the residence of the Knights of Hierusalem but at this day is possessed by the Turkes driuing out those Knights who now haue their residence in Malta an Iland neere that of Sicily Cyprus is an Iland in the same Sea and is most fertile yeelding Canes of Hony whence Suger is made and rich Wines and aboundiug with many things required for life and for pleasure and this Iland the Turks in the last Age took from the Venetians by force of Armes the chiefe Cities whereof are Famagosta and Nicosia The Archipelagus hath innumerable Ilands whereof the principall and most fruitfull are Tenedos small in circuit but famovs by the Nauy of the Greekes harbouring there at the siege of Troy Lesbos Lemnos Mitelene at this day called Metalon of the chiefe City Samnus of old called Sicania where Hypocrates was borne and Chios now called Zio more esteemed then any of the rest for the Marble Malmesey wine Masticke the iuyce or gumme of the tree called Lentiscus and no lesse for the many rich commodities it yeelds then for the goodnes and largenes of the soyle The Ilands of the Indian Sea belong not to the Turkes and therefore I will omit them The Turkish Empire stretcheth it selfe yet farther containing great part of Affrica which by the Grecians was called Libia and the word in the Greek tongue signifying horror and cold gaue the name to Africa as being void of cold The Mountaine Atlas in Affrick as Taurus in Asia which in some parts is called Caucasus and Imaus as the Mountaines of Europe are generally called the Alpes doth diuide this Countrie into many parts stretching it selfe towards the East and so forward to Nilus which parts or Prouinces are knowne by these names Mauritanta Affrica the lesser Syrenaica Marmarica AEgyptus Lybia AEthiopia the Regions vnder the Mountaines of Luna and the Ilands 1 Mauritania Tingitana containes two Kingdomes Fessa whereof the King of Spaine holds som part and Morcco subiect to the Turkes Of old it had these townes Tingis Metropolitane and Luxon neere which are the Gardens Hesperides which the Poets fable to haue Aples and trees of gold At this day the two chiefe Cities are called Fessa and Morocco At the Straight Sea betweene Spaine and Affricke the mountaines Abila in Affrick and Calpa in Spaine are of that forme as men would iudge they were once ioyned whereupon the Poets fable that Hercules deuided them and did let in the Ocean and so made the Mediterranean sea and for this cause the Straight is called the narrow Sea of Hercules and the Pillars of Hercules were erected on Affrickes side which the Emperour Charles the fifth added to his Coate of Armes Mauritania Caesariensis was also called Numidia for the people being rich in Cattell and dwelling in Tents and when they had eaten the grasse of one place then remouing to another were of their pastures called Nomades and after changing a letter became to bee named Numidae 2 Affrica the lesse a most fertile Region of old is at this day called the Kingdome of Tunis and the chiefe Citis are Hippon Metropolitan where Saint Austin was Bishop Vtica renowned for hauing Cato a Citizen Carthage where Tertullian was borne Tunis at this day chiefe Madaura where Lucius Apuleius was borne and Iacapa where the Vines are said to yeeld Grapes twise in the yeere The Brooke Rubricatus is famous for the Serpent killed there by Attilius Regulus in the time of the first Punike warre The quick-sands or sholes of the Sea adioyning are much feared of Marriners lying sometimes deepe sometimes shallow as the sands are driuen into diuers parts by diuers winds blowing and stormes and they are two The lesse not farre from Carthage the greater towards Syrenaica At this day all this Sea-coast is called Barbary and is subiect to the Turkish Ottoman 3 Sirenaica hath the name of the chiefe Citie Syrene which of old had emulation for greatnesse with Carthage and therein were borne Aristippus the Philosopher Calimachus the Poet and Eratostines the Mathematician and assome say Symon who carried the Crosse of Christ. 4 Marmarica is sandy and of old therein was the Temple of Iupiter called Hammon of the sands and these two Prouinces are annexed to Egypt 5 Egypt is most fertile the very garner of the vniuersall World and famous for the antiquitie of the Kingdome The vpper part thereof was called Thebais the lower towards the Mediterranean Sea was called Deltica of the letter Delta The Cities thereof no lesse famous in these dayes then of old are these Alexandria built by Alexander the great at the mouth of the Riuer Nilus whose body there buried was seene by Augustus and heere Ptolomy was borne who did gather in this Citie the famous Library of seuen hundred thousand volumes which were all consumed by fier The next chiefe Citie is Canopus where stood the Temple of Syrapis or Osyris Then Pelusium at this day called Damiata seated vpon the mouth of Nilus called Pelusium Lastly the chiefe Citie of all is Babylon built by the Babylonians permitted to dwell there which at this day is hugely increased and is called Alcaiero that is This Caiero from whence some fortie
numbers of Silke-wormes especially at Tripoli and in most parts of Asia which make great quantitie of Silke as I formerly said in the discourse of Italy yet they sell this Silke raw and vnwonen and buy of the Venetians the foresaid clothes made of their owne silke so as the silkewormes may well be said to bee more diligent and more to promote the publike good then the inhabitants for they swarming in all Gardens diligentlie finish their web while the idle inhabitants yeeld the commoditie thereof to strangers The Venetians also export from Turkey Spices and Apothecary wares and great quantitie of the Dye called Indico They export Galles Cotten wooll Cotton threads Chamlets or Grograms made of the finest haires of Goates not sheared but pulled off from their backes and wouen in Galatia a Prouince of the lesser Asia They export Turkey Carpets Goates skinnes wrought and died into diuers colours The English bring to the Turkes Kersies wrought and dyed of diuers colours and kinds but they bring little Broad-cloth wherewith they are aboundantlie furnished from Venice They also bring to them Tinne and blacke Conni-skinnes in such quantitic as the Turkes admiring the same a Frenchman merily taxing our womens affabilitie said that in England there was such plenty of Connyes and they so tame as they were taken in the Tauerns The English export from them Spices and Apothecary wares for the Trade into the East Indies was not then set vp they also export the foresaid commodities raw silke Indico and other precious Dyes of Scarlet Purple and the like Galles Mastick growing onely in the Iland Zio Cotton and the thread thereof Turkey Carpets for tables Chamlets Grograms of Goates haire The Merchants comming to Constantinople hardly find there any commodities to export therefore the English ships hauing vnladed there saile empty to Alexandretta and there receiue the commodities of Haleppo Againe the Italians who bring much gold and siluer to Haleppo for the commodities there to bee sold doe againe receiue gold and siluer for such commodities as they bring to Constantinople and carry the same backe to Venice The English lying at the Ilands of Zant and Cephalonia subiect to the Venetians and at Petrasso seated in the Gulfe of Corinth and subiect to the great Turke export Corrands others from Algier a Port of Barbary export Sugar others from the Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians export Muskadines and others from diuers Ilands export earthen dishes and vessels painted which for the purenesse are much esteemed and vsed in Italy and in our parts Northward The swords of Damasco are famous for the mettall piercing iron and cutting a naile in pieces but the exportation of them is forbidden though out Christians supply the Turkes with all warlike munitions which they might shame to haue particularly named in this discourse of traffick The precious Orientall commodities of Persia and the East Indies haue made the Trade of Turkish Cities to bee famous namely their spices and rich dies and Iewels which notwithstanding the Turkes haue in part of their owne For I formerly said that Arabia yeelds Frankinsence Mirrh Cinnamon and Iewels and AEgypt yeeldes Balsam and Opobalsam the more precious gumme of the Balmetree in great quantity omitting many commodities which besides they haue of these kinds I speake not of Thessalonica a City of Macedonia now called Saloniche nor other Hauens and Cities of trafficke in Greece as being of lesse moment All the precious traffick of Turkey by reason of the inhabitants slothfulnesse is in the hands of lewes and of Christians and was long in the sole hands of the Venetians but the French in the age past and the English in our age haue had as I may say a traffickiug league with the Turkes and so partake that trade And these three States onely not to speake of the Germans who at this time had warre with the Turkes and neuer saile so farre to exercise trafficke among so many States of Christians haue their Ambassadours at the Turkish Court And if any other Christians arriue in that Empire as the Flemmings often doe they vsed at this time to come vnder the Banner of one of these three Nations The Reader must vnderstand that when I was in Turkey the English and Flemmings had not as yet begun their traffick in the East Indies which is like to destroy the trafficke in Turkey bringing many rich commodities from the well head For their dyet the Turkes liue sparingly I had said slouenly but that I remembred their frequent bathings and washings and the curious clenlinesse of the linnen and all other clothes which they weare but I will bee bold to say they feede negligently and without any pompe or magnificence The richer sort doe fit at meate like Tailors with their knees bended vpon carpets or vpon the grasse when they eate by Riuers sides and in Gardens as they doe more frequently then in the house And their table is so low as they may well reach to it sitting vpon the ground About this table they cast a long towell to wipe their hands but passengers by the high-way and generally the ordinary sort of Turkes vse grasse in stead of this towell Others carry about a table of leather coloured red or yellow which table shuts and opens like a purse and vpon it they can set but one dish at once it hanging hollow vpon certaine buckels Commonly they eate by the high-way vpon the ground and alwaies with their knees bended like our Taylors They seeth their meat till it be very tender so as they may breake it with theit fingers for they haue no kniues neither haue they variety of dishes set before them but all sitting in a circle fall vpon one dish Taking meat they all together say a short prayer or grace and talke not whilest they eate but silently fall hard to their worke They haue aboundance of all things for foode aswell of flesh excepting swines-flesh as of birds and other meates but they abstaine from fish They haue plenty of Corne at least sufficient for their temperate dyet which is exceeding good and farre bigger then ours They are ignorant of the Arts of birding fouling hunting or cookery and hauing no lasciuicus apetite prouoking them to gluttony are content with simple meates Their sobrietie in this kind cannot sufficiently be commended and since their greatest men can bee content to feede on rice and drinke water it is no maruell that with ease they keepe great Armies in the field All the Turkish housholdstuffe is contained in one poore pot to seeth meate in one spoone of wood one cup of leather or wood to drinke in a poore bed or matresse yea often a single couerled alone and the earth serues them for bedsteed table and stooles They haue no neede of a troope of cookes and scullions to dresse meate and make cleane dishes They willingly eate curds turned sower and mingled with bread and water commonly called Mishmish and fresh cheese or curds
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
the chiefe City by the Lattines called Mediomatricum and Metis is now vulgarly called Metz which City the King of France tooke in the yeere 1551 from the Empire in the time of the Emperor Charles the fifth who besieged the same long but in vaine the Kings of France still holding it The Dukedome of Burgundy belonged of old to the Empire but is now subiect to the Kings of France the chiefe City whereof is Dijon where the Parliament of the whole Dukedome is held It hath other Cities namely Beaulue Challon Chastillon Noyres and a place called Bourgougne which gaue the name to the Dukedome yet others write that it had the name of Bourges that is Townes The County of Burgundy belonged of old to the Empire but is now subiect to the King of Spaine whose progenitor married the daughter and heire of the Duke of Burgundy at which time the Kings of France tooke the foresaid Dukedome from the said daughter and heire And this County is vulgarly called Franche Conte as free from tributes It hath two free Cities Dole an Vniuersity and Besancon 2 The second part of Transalpina Gallia is Narbonensis which onely at this day yet not all may truly be called Gallia It was of old called Braccata of the Inhabitants apparell and is called Narbonensis of the chiefe City Narbona lying vpon the Riuer Athesis neere the Mediterranean Sea which Strabo witnesseth to haue beene of old a famous City for trafficke The Riuer Rhodanus runnes through it which falling from the Alpes and increased by Araris but still retaining the first name fals into the Mediterranean Sea This part called Narbonensis by the benefit of the Ayre and Sunne yeelds Figges Grapes Cytrons Peaches Pomegranates Chessenuts rich Wine and all delicate fruites and all the fields are made odoriferous by wild Rosemary Myrtels Palmetrees and many sweete hearbes and the Inhabitants haue lately planted Canes of sugar To conclude the Prouince is very pleasant and plentifull in all things On the West side of Rhodanus the Tectosages dwelt of old in the Prouince called Languadoc hauing that name because the Inhabitants vse Oc for the French Ouy The chief Cities thereof are Narbona aforesaid Mompeliers of old a famous Vniuersity Clermont The Dukedome of Sauoy lies in a corner from the alps to the mediterranean Sea of old inhabited by the Focuntij and it lying on the same side of the Alpes with France is reckoned a part thereof but the Duke thereof is an absolute Prince and the chiefe City is Chambery The Prouince is very fertile and where it is more barren yet affoordes excellent fruites and all things for foode at a conuenient price Dolphiny lies betweene the Riuer Rhodanus and the Dukedome of Sauoy and giues the name of Dolphin to the French Kings eldest sonne Prouence is a most sweete Territory and hath the Cities Marseile famous by trade with the Turkes Arles and Auignon subiect to the Pope for when many Popes were at one time Iohn the two and twentieth did long sit in this City giuen by Ioane Queene of Naples to the Popes in the time of Clement the sixth alienated from the Kingdome of Naples by her and annexed to the Patrimony of Saint Peter in the yeere 1360. The Principalitie of Orange is an absolute dominion hauing the chiefe City of the same name and seated betweene Languedoc Dolphiny and the Popes Territorie of Auignon The ayre of the Northerne part of France is purer then that of England and being not couered with cloudes drawne out of the Sea as England is for that cause in winter becomes more cold and in summer more hot and farre lesse annoied with mists rainy weather But on the other side more lesse according to the clyme the parts of France lying towards the Mountaines Pirenei and neerer to the Equinoctiall line are subiect to intemperate heate yet often allaied by the winds blowing from the Sea and by the shaddow of the Mountaines This Southerly part yeeldes all the fruites of Italy and in the Northerly parts as in Normandy they haue abundance of Apple and Peare trees of which they make great quantity of Sider and Perry and this part as towards the Sea it yeelds also plenty of Corne so within Land it affoords the like of Wines And in the very Northerly Iland called France they haue plenty of Grapes vpon pleasant hils watered with sweet Riuers but the wine made of them is small and sharpe All France is most pleasant and not onely about Narbona but in many other territories according to the commodity of the clime it yeelds great plenty of red and white wines exported in great quantity which are held excellent to be drunke the white in the moaning and the red with meate which red is otherwise reputed vnholsome as prouoking and causing rhumes France aboundeth with all things necessary for food as well Corne as Cattell red Deare Fowle and also with all kinds of Fish by reason it is partly compassed with the Sea and vpon all sides is watered with sweete Riuers For fier they vse wood and coales yet haue they no pit coales or sea coales but haue their sea eoales out of England for their Smiths Forges and where they haue lesse store of wood within land there they burne straw furres and other kinds of stubble They haue good races of Horses which the greater part vse in the Warre who are not able to buy Neapolitan Coursers Spanish lanets or English Coursers bred of the Neapolitan Horses and English Mares but for their iournies they haue no Gueldings or ambling Nagges as wee haue but commonly vse trotting and stoned Nagges The Gentlemen doe not meddle with trafficke either because it was of old forbidden to great Lords and Gentlemen lest the Kings impositions should thereby suffer domage they being by singular priuiledges exempted and freed from all such burthens or because in deed they thinke such trafficke ignoble and base and so vnfit fot them which error the French no lesse deerely buy then the English as I haue shewed in the discourse of Italy and shall againe proue in that of England In generall the French are lesse studious of Nauigation or industrious in that kind because they abound almost with all things for plentifull foode and rich attire and if they want any thing strangers gladly bring it to them and exchange it for their wines salt and course linnen cloaths neither haue I heard or read that they euer did any braue exploit by sea They haue in time of warre some few men of warre for piracy and some few ships to export their commodities but they saile onely to neighbour Countries as out of Normandy and Bretaigne into England Ireland and the Low-Countries and onely those of Marseile to Tripoli in Syria As for the Colonies which in our Age they haue led into the West Indies their vnhappy successe therein hath discouraged them from like new attempts And whosoeuer sees their rich Cities within
Land witnessing that their wealth consists in natiue commodities more then trading by Sea may easily guesse that they are not much addicted to Nauigation The French haue many commodities by which they draw forraigne Coynes to them but foure especially Wine Salt Linnen course cloth and Corne which in that respect some call the loadestones of France Neither is it a matter of small moment that they haue many Riners giuing commodity to the mutuall trafficke of their Cities They haue plenty of Flaxe and Hempe whereof they make canuas sayles ropes and cables Neither want they wooll whereof they make cloth little inferiour to the English cloth but not in quantity to be exported Bourdeaux is a famous City for exportation of Wines as Rochell and the neighbour Ports are no lesse for Salt France yeeldeth Saffron and Oade for dying which they call Du Pastell and many small commodities to be exported as Cards Pinnes Paper and the like yea they export into Spaine linnen cloathes made thinne with wearing and sell them there for a good price The Spaniards bring into France some quantity of wooll raysons Oliues Oyle Cytrons and other fruites whereof France needes no great quantity and Cochenillo for dying The Fortingals bring into France holy Thistle an hearbe like a white thorne hauing leaues like cotten on them and sugar and diuers kinds of Indian wood as ãâã Schomache Fustocke and Logwood and a smal quantity of Dates And these carry out of France great quantity of Linnen cloth which we call white Roanes and greater quantity of vittree Canuas and Paper some woollen cloth much Corne especially Wheate good quantity of waxe and cardes and the like commodities The English bring into France great quantity of woollen-cloaths called Kersies and Cottons Leade Tynne English Vitriall or Shooemakers blacke sheepe skinnes and by stealth other Hides forbidden to be exported great quantity of Hearrings and new found land Fish dried of wooll though forbidden to be exported Oyle Soape tunned Soape ashes old worne cloakes and I know not to what vse very old shooes with other natiue and forraigne commodities And they bring from thence Linnen cloathes called white Roanes and Vitree Canuas Paper white and red wines in great quantity Threed Saffron Waxe and from Paris Gold and siluer The Hollanders bring into France two or three kindes of their Linnen cloathes Copper Feathers and Wier and they carry thence the foresaid Linnen cloathes Wines Prunes Paper and the aboue named commodities The French carry into Italy Tinne Lead dry fish called Poore Iohn brought to them by the English and their owne aboue named commodities And they bring out of Italy silke cloaths and other Italian commodities Among the French onely those of Marseile trafficke with the Turkes and their greatest trade is onely at Tripoli in Syria who carry into Turkey Spanish siluer and French Linnen cloathes and bring from thence raw silke spices gals cotton and Indico for dying Old Writers relate that the Gals vsed to lie on the ground to feed on milke and Swines flesh and to be giuen to gluttony At this day none eate lesse Bacon or dried flesh for ordinary diet then the French yet I cannot commend their temperance since all as well Men as Weomen besides dinner and supper vse breakefasts and beuers which they call collations and gouster so eating foure times in the day All France abounds with necessaries for food as well all kinds of Cattle as fruites not inferiour in some places to those of Italy and wild Boares and Red Deare for they haue no fallow Deare and Birds and Fowle and all kinds of Fish affoorded by the Sea and their many pleasant riuers but their Beef is neither very good nor much vsed Their Sheep are lesse then ours in England but the flesh of them is sweete and sauoury In the Innes they haue greater plenty of Partridges and diuers kinds of Birds because the Countrey people neither doe nor may eate them and the Gentlemen are generally sparing in their ordinary diet so as great plenty of these dainties is brought to the chiefe Innes Howsoeuer England be happy in all aboundance and hath some dainties for food proper to it selfe as God wits and some other kinds of Sea Fowle and especially fallow Deare and Brawne Though it passeth France generally in plenty of Sea Fowles and as well the variety as plenty of Sea fishes yet hath it not such aboundance as France hath of Land Fowle or such as haunt the woods and fields as Partridges Feasants Woodcocks and the like or at least by reason of the common sort not feeding thereon and the said spare ordinary diet of the Gentlemen France seemeth much more to abound with them being common in all the chiefe Innes I speake of England in generall for in some places they so abound with vs as they beare little or no price The French are commended and said to excell others in boyled meates sawces and made dishes vulgarly called Quelques choses but in my opinion the larding of their meates is not commendable whereby they take away all variety of taste making all meates sauor of Porke and the French alone delight in mortified meates They vse not much whitmeates nor haue I tasted there any good Butter which our Ambassadours cause to be brought vnto them out of England and they haue onely one good kinde of Cheeses called Angelots pleasing more for a kind of sharpenesse in taste then for the goodnesse As well the Gentlemen as Citizens liue more sparingly then the English in their ordinary priuate diet and haue not their Tables so furnished with variety and number of dishes They dine most with sodden and liquid meates and sup with roasted meates each hauing his seuerall sawce but their Feasts are more sumptuous then ours and consist for the most part of made fantasticall meates and sallets and sumptuous compositions rather then of flesh or birds And the cookes are most esteemed who haue best inuention in new made and compounded meats And as in al things the French are chearefull and nimble so the Italians obserue that they eate or swallow their meate swiftly and adde that they are also slouenly at meate but I would rather say they are negligent or carelesse and little curious in their feeding And to this purpose I remember an accident that happened to a Frenchman eating with vs at the Masters table in a Venetian ship gouerned by Greekes and sailing from Venice to Ilierusalem who turning hir foule trencher to lay meat on the cleane side did so offend the Master and all the Marriners as well the best as common sort as they hardly refrained from offering him violence For Marriners in generall but especially the Greekes are so superstitious as they tooke this his negligence in turning his trencher being of like opinion for the turning of any thing in the ship vpside downe as if it had been an ominous signe that the ship should be cast away In a Village of Normandy halfe way
Grauesend is a knowne Roade The City Rochester is the seate of a Bishop and hath a stately Cathedrall Church Canterbery is a very ancient City the seate of an Archbishop who in the Hierarchy of the Roman Bishop was stiled the Popes Legate but the Popes authority being banished out of England it was decreed in a Synod held the yeere 1534 that the Archbishops laying aside that title should be called the Primates and Metrapolitanes of all England Before the Rode of Margat lie the dangerous shelfes or flats of sand whereof the greatest is called Goodwin sand Douer is a Port of old very commodious but now lesse safe onely it is more famous for the short cut to Callis in France The Towne Rumney one of the fiue Portes in our Grand-fathers time lay close vpon the Sea but now is almost two miles distant from the same 11 Glocestershire was of old inhabited by the Dobuni William of Malmesbury writes that this County is so fertile in Corne and fruites as in some places it yeelds a hundreth measures of graine for one sowed but Camden affirmes this to bee false The same Writer affirmes that the very high waies are full of Appell trees not planted but growing by the nature of the soyle and that the fruits so growing are better then others planted both in beauty taste and lasting being to be kept a whole yeere from rotting He adds that it yeelded in his time plenty of Vines abounding with Grapes of a pleasant taste so as the wines made thereof were not sharpe but almost as pleasant as the Fench wines which Camden thinkes probable there being many places still called Vineyards and attributes it rather to the Inhabitants slothfulnesse then to the fault of the Ayre or soyle that it yeeldes not wine at this day Tewkesbury is a large and faire Towne hauing three Bridges ouer three Riuers and being famous for making of woollen cloth for excellent mustard and a faire Monastery in which the Earles of Glocester haue their Sepulchers The City of Glocester is the cheefe of the County through which the Seuerne runnes and here are the famous Hils of Cotswold vpon which great flockes of sheepe doe feede yeelding most white wooll much esteemed of all Nations Circester is an ancient City the largenesse whereof in old time appeares by the ruines of the wals The Riuer Onse springeth in this County which after yeeldes the name to the famous Riuer Thames falling into it 12 Oxfordshire also was inhabited by the Dobuni a fertile County the plaines whereof are bewtified with meadowes and groues the hils with woods and not onely it abounds with corne but with all manner of cattle and game for hunting and hawking and with many Riuers full of fish Woodstocke Towne is famous for the Kings House and large Parke compassed with a stone wall which is said to haue been the first Parke in England but our Progenitors were so delighted with hunting as the Parkes are now growne infinite in number and are thought to containe more fallow Deere then all the Christian World besides Histories affirme that Henry the second for his Mistris Rosamond of the Cliffords house did build in his house here a labyrinth vnpassable by any without a threed to guide them but no ruines thereof now remaine The Towne itselfe hath nothing to boast but that Ieffry Chancer the English Homer was borne there Godstowe of old a Nunnery is not farre distant where Rosamond was buried Oxford is a famous Vniuersity giuing the name to the County and was so called of the Foorde for Oxen or of the Foorde and the Riuer Onse 13 Buckinghamshire was of old inhabited by the Cattienchiani which Camden thinks to be the Cassei and it hath a large and pleasant towne called Ailsbury which giues the name to the Valley adioyning The city Buckingham is the chiefe of the County and the Towne of Stonystratford is well knowne for the faire Innes and stately Bridge of stone 14 Bedfordshire had the same old inhabitants and hath the name of Bedford the chiefe Towne 15 Hertfordshire had the same old inhabitants and the chiefe Towne is Hertford In this County is the stately house Thibaulds for building Gardens and Walks Saint Albons is a pleasant Towne full of faire Innes 16 Midlesex County was of old inhabited by the Trinobants called Mercij in the time of the Saxon Kings In this County is the Kings stately pallace Hamptencourt hauing many Courtyards compassed with sumptuous buildings London the seate of the Brittans Empire and the Chamber of the Kings of England is so famous as it needes not bee praysed It hath Colledges for the studie of the municiple Lawes wherein liue many young Gentlemen Students of the same The little citie Westminster of old more then a mile distant is now by faire buildings ioyned to London and is famous for the Church wherein the Kings and Nobles haue stately Sepulchers and for the Courts of Iustice at Westminster Hall where the Parliaments are extraordinarily held and ordinarily the Chancerie Kings Bench with like Courts Also it hath the Kings stately Pallace called Whitehall to which is ioyned the Parke and house of Saint Iames. The Citie of London hath the sumptuous Church of Saint Paul beautified with rich Sepulchers and the Burse or Exchange a stately house built for the meeting of Merchants a very sumptuous and wonderfull Bridge built ouer the Thames rich shops of Gold-smiths in Cheapeside and innumerable statelie Pallaces whereof great part lye scattered in vnfrequented lanes 17 Essex County had of old the same inhabitants and it is a large Teritorie yeelding much Corne and Saffron enriched by the Ocean and with pleasant Riuers for fishing with Groues and many other pleasures It hath a large Forrest for hunting called Waltham Forrest Chensford is a large and faire Towne neere which is New-Hall the stately Pallace of the Rateliffes Earles of Sussex Colchester is a faire City pleasantly seated well inhabited and beautified with fifteene Churches which greatly flourished in the time of the Romans Harewich is a safe Hauen for ships Saffron Walden is a faire Towne the fields whereof yeeld plenty of Saffron whereof it hath part of the name 18 The County of Suffolke was of old inhabited by the Iceni and it is large the soile fertile pleasant in groues and rich in pastures to fat Cattle where great quantity of Cheese is made and thence exported Saint Edmondsberry vulgarly called Berry is a faire Towne and so is Ipswich hauing stately built Churches and houses and a commodious Hauen 19 The County of Norfolke had of old the same Inhabitants and it is a large almost all Champion Countrey very rich and abounding with sheepe and especially with Conies fruitfull and most populous The City Norwich chiefe of the County deserues to be numbered among the chiefe Cities of England for the riches populousnesse beauty of the Houses and the faire building of the Churches Yarmouth is a most faire Towne fortified
by nature and diligent Art and hath a very faire Hauen Vpon the bay which Ptolomy names AEstuarium Metaris vulgarly called the Washes lieth the large Towne of Linne famous for the safety of the Hauen most easie to be entred for the concourse of Merchants and the faire buildings 20 Cambridgeshire had of old the same Inhabitants and consists all of open corne fields excepting some places yeelding Saffron and it giues excellent Barly of which steeped till it spring againe they make great quantity of Mault to brew Beere in such quantity as the Beere is much exported euen into forraigne parts and there highly esteemed Cambridge is a famous Vniuersity seated vpon the Riuer Grant by others called Came of which and the Bridge ouer the same it is called Cambridge The Northerne part of this County consists of Ilands greene and pleasant in Summer but all couered with water in the Winter whereof the cheefe called Ely giues the name to all the rest called as if they were but one Iland the I le of Ely the cheefe Towne whereof called also Ely is famous for being the seate of a Bishop 21 Hunting donshire had of old the same Inhabitants the cheefe Towne whereof is Huntingdon 22 Northamptonshire was of old inhabited by the Coritani and is a Countrey most painefully tilled and full of Inhabitants Northampton is the cheefe City large and walled Peterborow is the seate of a Bishop Neere Stamford is the stately Pallace Burleigh built by William the first Lord Burleigh 23 Leycestershire had of old the same Inhabitants a Champion Country and fruitfull in bearing Corne. In Lutterworth a little Towne of Trade Iohn Wickliffe was Pastor or Minister Leicester the cheefe City hath more antiquitie then beauty 24 Rutlandshire had of old the same Inhabitants and is the least County of England and had the name of the red Earth The Towne of Vppingham deserues no other mention then that it is the cheefe Towne of the County 25 Linconshire had of old the same inhabitants and is a very large County rich in Corne and Pastures and abounding with Fowle and Fish and all things necessary for foode The great Washes of Holland when the Sea flowes are couered with water but when it ebbes the ground is discouered to be passed but not without danger and with a good guide Lincolne the chief City was of old one of the most populous Cities of England and one that had greatest trade and hath a sumptuous Cathedral Church 26 Nottinghamslire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe City whereof is Nottingham pleasantly seated In the Westerne part is the Wood called Shirewood feeding infinit numbers of Fallow and Red Deare whether the Kings of old were wont to retire for hunting 27 Darbyshire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe towne whereof is Darby faire and well inhabited the Ayle whereof is for goodnesse prouerbially preferred before that kind of drinke in any other Towne The Westerne part hath high Mountaines called Peake yeelding Leade which they make into Sowes and stibium in his proper vaines is there found Likewise there Mil-stones are out out and there is the old Castle called the Castle in the Peake neare which is a great hole or caue in the Mountaine gaping wide and hauing many inward caues and this hole with reueuerence be it spoken is vulgarly called The Diuels ars at Peuke of which many fables are told and the place is accounted among the miracles of England The like fables are told of ãâã hole not farre distant very steepe and deepe 28 Warwickshire was of old inhabited by the Cornauij wherein is Couentry a large faire and walled Citie so called of the Couent of Monkes and at this day it is the fairest City within-land wherof the chiefe trade of old was making round caps of wooll but the same being now very little vsed the trade is decaied Warwick is the chiefe City of the County and neare the same vpon the hill Blacklow Peter of Gaueston was beheaded by the Lords of the Kingdome Not farre thence is a transparant and pleasant but little Wood and there be cleare Fountaines which place yeelds sweete solitude for the Muses and there they report that the famous worthy Guy of Warwick after many aduentures atchieued did first liue an Heremites life and was after death buried 29 Worcestershire had of old the same inhabitants which after in the time of Beda were called Wiccij either of wic signifying a corner or bay or of wyches signifying ãâã in the Saxons tongue And there are excellent salt-pits or Brookes and new fountaines of salt are daily found The Country is happy in the healthfull ayre tertility of soile and sweete Riuers but especially yeeldeth abundance of Peares of which they make Perry a counterfeit wine but cold and flatuous as all those kinds of drinke are Worcester the chiefe City of the County was built by the Romans and is compassed with a wall and hath the seate of a Bishop and a faire Cathedrall Church with the Monuments of Iohn King of England and Arthur Prince of Wales It is also beautified with many inhabitants rich trade of wollen cloth faire buildings and the number of Churches 30 Staffordshire had of old the same inhabitants and towards the South it hath pit-coales and some vaines of Iron but the greatest quantitie and best kind of pit-coales is in Nottinghamshire Stone is a Towne of Traffike Lichfeild is a large and faire City so called as the field of dead bodies and it is beautified with the seate of a Bishop his Pallace and the house of the Prebends My selfe passing that way did reade these Epitaphes in the Cathedrall Church The first of a Deane Sis testis Christe quod non iacet hic lapis iste Corpus vt ornetur sed spirittus vt memoretur O Christ me witnesse beare that this stone lies not here To grace the vile body but the soules memorie And another excellent Epitaph but superstitious and I know not whose Quisquis eris qui transieris sta perlege plora Sum quod eris fuer amque quod es pro me precor ora Who ere thou be that passest by stand reade and houle Such shalt thou be I was like thee pray for my soule Yet I remember not well whether these were two Epitaphes or onely one and for one man 31 Shropshire had of old the same inhabitants and was a fortified and manned frontyer against the Welsh then diuided from the English and their enemies and thereupon was named the Marches Ludlow is a Towne of more beauty then antiquity beautified with the Pallace of the King or rather of the Prince of Wales and there is a Counsell or Court of Iustice erected for Wales the borders not vnlike to the French Parliaments and instituted by Henry the eight It consists of the President of Wales there residing of a Secretary an Atturney a Solicitor and foure Iustices of the Counties of Wales and as many Counsellers as
the King shall please to appoint In Hackstow Forrest at the hill Stiperstons are great heapes of stones which the vulgar sort dreame to haue been the diuels bridge Wrockceter of old the chiefe Citie burt by the Romans is now a pretty village and from the decay therof grew the well knowne Citie Shrewesburie now the chiefe Citie fortified by art and nature rich by making wollen cloth and trading with the neighbouring Welchmen where Henry Percy the younger with his forces was ouerthrowne by Henrie the fourth 32 Cheshire is a great County of Gentlemen no other County hauing so many Knights houses Westchester is a faire Citie where the twentieth Legion called victrix lay in Garison in the time of Vespasian the Roman Emperor Most white Salt is made at Nantwich and lesse white made at Middlewich and Norwich It is rich in Pastures and sends great quantitie of cheeses to London I know that Worcester cheeses are most esteemed but there is not such quantitie to transport them I know that Suffolke and the Fennes of Essex yeeld huge cheeses in great number to bee exported but they are not so pleasing to the taste as these I know that in all the Counties some quantity of very good cheeses is made for priuate mens vses but not in proportion to bee exported Whereas Cheshire yeelds great quantity of very good cheeses comparable to those of Holland seruing the greatest part of London therewith and exporting the same into other parts When the heyres males of this County faced Henry the third added this large patrimony to the Crowne so as the Kings eldest sonne should be Earle of Cheshire And Richard the second of a County made it a Principality and himselfe was called Prince of Cheshire but Henry the fourth reduced it againe to a Countie Palatine and at this day it hath Palatine iurisdiction administred by a Chamberlaine a speciall Iudge two Exchequer Barons three Serieants at Law a Sheriffe an Atturney an Escheator c. 33 Herefordshire was of old inhabited by the Silures and it so much abeundeth with all things necessarie for the life of man as it is not content in that respect to haue the second place among all the Counties of England Hereford is the chiefe Citie thereof Lemster iustly boasteth of the Sheepes wooll feeding in those grounds with which no part of Europe can compare excepting Apulia and Tarentum It yeelds excellent Fiax and so good Wheate as the bread of Lemster and drinke of Weabley a neighbour Towne are prouerbially praised before all others 34 Radnoxshire had of old the same inhabitants and is the first County of Wales whereof Radnox is the chiefe Towne 35 Brechnocshire the second County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe Towne seated in the middest thereof where Henry the eight instituted a Collegiate Church 36 Monmouthshire had of old the same inhabitants and is so called of the chiefe Towne no way so glorious as in that Henry the fifth Conquerer of France was borne there It hath also another faire Towne called Chepstow 37 Glamorganshire the fourth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants and the chiefe Citie Caerdiffe hath a commodious Hauen 38 Caermardenshire the fifth County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Dimetae and is fruitefull in Corne abounds in Sheepe and in some places yeelds Pit-coale It hath the name of the chiefe Citie where Merlin was borne begotten by an Incubus Deuill whom the common people tooke for a most famous Prophet 39 Pembrookeshire the sixth County of Wales had of old the same inhabitants Here a long neck of land makes an Hauen called Milford hauen then which Europe hath not a more noble Hauen or more safe or more large with many creekes and safe roades made more famous by the landing of H. the seuenth Pembrook is the chiefe Towne of the County The Flemming hauing their Townes drowned by the Sea had a Territorie of this County giuen them to inhabit by Henry the first before Wales was subdued and they euer remained most faithfull to the Kings of England 40 Kardiganshire the seuenth County of Wales and had of old the same inhabitants and hath the name of the chiefe City 41 Montgomeryshire the eight County of Wales was of old inhabited by the Ordouices and hath the name of the chiefe Towne 42 Mertonethshire the ninth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants where vpon the mountaines great slockes of sheepefeede without any danger of the wolfe for the wolues were destroied through all England when Edgar King of England imposed the yeerely tribute of three hundreth wolues vpon ãâã Prince of Wales The little and poore towne Bala is the eheefe of this Mountenous people 43 Caernaruonshire the tenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and was called Snodenforest before Wales was reduced into Counties so called of the mountaines whose tops are alwaies white with snow deseruing to be named the Alps of Britany and it is certaine that there be lakes and standing waters vpon the tops of those Mountaines The walled City Caernaruon checfe of the County hath a most faire Castle built by Edward the first wherein his sonne Edward the second was borne and named thereof Bangor that is faire Chancell is the seate of a Bishop Aberconway deserues the name of a strong and faire little City rather then of a Towne saue that it is not full of Inhabitants 44 Denbighshire the eleuenth County of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants and hath the name of the cheefe Towne well inhabited The little Village Momglath had the name of the mines of lead which that pleasant territory yeelds Not far thence is the Towne Wrexham bewtified with a most saire Tower called the Holy Tower and commended for the musicali Organes in the Church 45 The little County Flintshire the twelfth of Wales had of old the same Inhabitants the fields whereof the first yeere after they haue line fallow yeeld more then twenty measures for one in some places of Barly in other places of Wheate and generally of Rie and after for foure or fiue yeeres yeeld Oates Holiwell named of the sacred Fountaine is a little Towne where is the Fountaine of Winefrede a Christian Virgin who being defloured by force there was killed by the Tyrant and this Fountaine is farre and greatly famous for the Mosse there growing of a most pleasant smell A faire Chappell of Free stone is built vpon the very Fountaine and a little streame runnes out of it among stones vpon which a certaine bloody humour growes The Castle Flint gaue the name to the County 46 I will omit Anglesey the thirteenth County of Wales because it is to be described among the Ilands 47 Yorkeshire is the farre largest County of all England and was of old inhabited by the Brigantes In the Forrest called Hatfield Chase are great Heards of red Deare and Harts The Townes of Sheffeld and
Dancasler are well knowne but of all other Hallifax is most famous for the Priuiledges and the rare Law by which any one found in open theft is without delay beheaded and boasteth that Iohn de sacrobosco of the Holy Wood who writ of the Sphere was borne there Wakefield is a famous Towne for making Woollen cloth Pontfreit named of the broken bridge is a towne fairely built and hath a Castle as stately built as any can be named Neere the little Village Towton are the very Pharsalian fields of England which did neuer see in any other place so great Forces and so many Nobles in Armes as here in the yeere 1461 when in the ciuill warres the faction of Yorke in one battell killed fiue and thirty thousand of the Lancastrian faction Neere the Castle Knarshorow is the Fountaine called Droppingwell because the waters distill by drops from the rockes into which any wood being cast it hath been obserued that in short space it is couered with a stony rinde and hardens to a stone Rippen had a most flourishing Monastery where was the most famous needle of the Archbishop Wilfred It was a narrow hole by which the chastity of women was tried the chaste easily passing through in but others being detained and held fast I know not by what miracle or art Neare the little towne Barrobridge is a place where stand foure Pyramides the Trophces of the Romans but of ãâã workmanship Yorke the chiefe Citie of the Brigantes is the second of all England and the seate of an Archbishop The Emperour Constantius Chlorus died there and there begat his sonne Constantine the great of his first wife Helena whereof may be gathered how much this scare of the Emperours flourished in those daies By a Pall or Archbishops cloake sent from Pope Honorius it was made a Metropolitan Citie ouer twelue Bishops in England and al the Bishops of Scotland but some fiue hundred yeeres past all Scotland fell from this Metropolitan feare and it selfe hath so deuoured the next Bishoprickes as now it onely hath primacy ouer foure English Bishops of Durham of Chester of Carlile and the Bishop of the I le of man Henry the eight did here institute a Councell as he did also in Wales not vnlike the Parliaments of France to giue arbitrary iustice to the Northerne inhabitants consisting of a President Counsellors as many as the King shall please to appoint a Secretary c. Hull a well knowne Citie of trade lyes vpon the Riuer Humber where they make great gaine of the Iseland fish called Stockfish Vpon the very tongue called Spurnchead of the Promontory which Ptolomy calles Ocellum vulgarly called Holdernesse is a place famous by the landing of Henry the fourth Scarborrough is a famous Castle where in the sea is great fishing of Herrings 48 Richmondshire had of old the same inhabitants and the Mountaines plentifully yeeld leade pit-coales and some brasse vpon the tops whereof stones are found which haue the figures of shelfishes and other fishes of the neighboring sea Neare the Brookes Helbechs as infernal are great heards of Goates Fallow and Red-Deare and Harts notable for their greatnesse and the spreading of their hornes Richmond is the chiefe Citie of the County 49 The Bishoprick of Durham had of old the same inhabitants and the land is very gratefull to the plower striuing to passe his labour in fruitfulnesse It is pleasant in Meadowes Pastures and groues and yeelds great plenty of digged Coales called Sea-coales The Bishops were of old Counts Palatine and had their royall rightes so as Traytors goods sell to them not to the Kings Edward the first tooke away these priuiledges and Edward the sixth dissolued the Bishopricke till Queene Mary restored all to the Church which it inioies to this day but the Bishop in Queene Elizabeths time challenging the goods of the Earle of Westmerland rebelling the Parliament interposed the authority therof and for the time iudged those goods to be confiscated towards the Queenes charge in subduing those Rebels Durham is the chiefe City of that County 50 Lancashire had of old the same inhabitants and hath the title of a Palatinate Manchester an old towne faire and wel inhabited rich in the trade of making woollen cloth is beautified by the Market-place the Church and Colledge and the clothes called Manchester Cottons are vulgarly knowne Vpon the Sea-coast they power water vpon heapes of sand till it get saltnesse and then by seething it make white Salt There be some quicksands wherein footemen are in danger to be wrecked especially at the mouth of Cocarus Lancaster the chiefe Towne hath the name of the Riuer Lone The Dukes of this County obtained the Crowne of England and Henrie the seuenth Duke of Lancaster vnited this Dutchy to the Crowne instituting a Court of Officers to administer the same namely a Chauncelor of the Dutchy an Attorny a Receiuer a Clarke of the Court sixe Assistants a Pursuiuant two Auditors twenty three Receiuers and three ouerseers 51 Westmerland had of old the same inhabitants and Kendale the chiefe Towne well inhabited is famous for making of woollen cloth 52 Cumberland had of old the same inhabitants and hath mines of Brasse and vaines of siluer in all parts yeelding blacke leade vsed to draw black lines Carleile a very ancient City is the seate of a Bishop In this County still appeare the ruines of a wall which the Romans built to keepe out the Pictes from making incursions being so poore as they cared not to subdue them And the Emperike Surgeons that is of experience without learning of Scotland come yeerely to those fields of the borders to gather hearbs good to heale wounds and planted there by the bordering souldiers of the Romans the vertue of which herbs they wonderfully extoll 53 Northumberland was of old inhabited by the Ottadini and the inhabitants of our time now exercising themselues in warre against the Scots now resisting their incursions vpon these borders are very warlike and excellent light Horsemen In very many places this County yeelds great quantity of Sea coales Newcastle is a faire and rich City well fortified against the incursions of the bordering Scots whence aboundance of Sea coales is transported into many parts Barwicke is the last and best fortified Towne of all Britany in which a Garrison of Souldiers was maintained against the incursions of the Scots till the happy Raigne of Iames King of England and Scotland To describe breefly the Ilands of England In the narrow Sea into which the Seuerne fals are two little Ilands 1 Fatholme and 2 Stepholme and the 3 Iland Barry which gaue the name to the Lord Barry in Ireland There is also the 4 Iland Caldey and that of 5 Londay much more large hauing a little Towne of the same name and belonging to Deuonshire On the side vpon Pembrookeshire are the Ilands 6 Gresholme 7 Stockholme and 8 Scalmey yeelding grasse and wild thime Then Northward followes 9 Lymen called Ramsey by
worke in the Mines of mettall The ayre of England is temperate but thicke cloudy and misty and Caesar witnesseth that the cold is not so piercing in England as in France For the Sunne draweth vp the vapours of the Sea which compasseth the Iland and distills them vpon the earth in frequent showers of raine so that frosts are somewhat rare and howsoeuer Snow may often fall in the Winter time yet in the Southerne parts especially it seldome lies long on the ground Also the coole blasts of Sea winds mittigate the heat of Summer By reason of this temper Lawrell and Rosemary flourish all Winter especially in the Southerne parts and in Summer time England yeelds Abricots plentifully Muske melons in good quantity and Figges in some places all which ripen well and happily imitate the taste and goodnesse of the same fruites in Italy And by the same reason all beasts bring forth their young in the open fields euen in the time of Winter and England hath such aboundance of Apples Peares Cherries and Plummes such variety of them and so good in all respects as no countrie yeelds more or better for which the Italians would gladly exchange their Citrons and Oranges But vpon the Sea coast the winds many times blast the fraites in the very flower The English are so naturally inclined to pleasure as there is no Countrie wherein the Gentlemen and Lords haue so many and large Parkes onely reserued for the pleasure of hunting or where all sorts of men alot so much ground about their houses for pleasure of Gardens and Orchards The very Grapes especially towards the South and Westare of a pleasant taste and I haue said that in some Countries as in Glostershire they made Wine of old which no doubt many parts would yeeld at this day but that the inhabitants forbeare to plant Vines aswell because they are serued plentifully and at a good rate with French wines as for that the hilles most fit to beare Grapes yeeld more commoditie by feeding of Sheepe and Cattell Caesar writes in his Commentaries that Britany yeelds white Leade within land and Iron vpon the Sea-coasts No doubt England hath vnexhaustible vaines of both and also of Tinne and yeelds great quantitie of Brasse and of Allom and Iron and abounds with quarries of Free-stone and Fountaines of most pure Salt and I formerly said that it yeelds some quantity of Siluer and that the Tinne and Leade is mingled with Siluer but so as it doth not largely quit the cost of the labour in seperating or trying it Two Cities yeeld medicinall Baths namely Buxstone and Bathe and the waters of Bathe especially haue great vertue in many diseases England abounds with Sea-coales vpon the Sea-coast and with Pit coales within land But the Woods at this day are rather frequent and pleasant then vast being exhausted for fier and with Iron-milles so as the quantity of wood and charcoale for fier is much deminished in respect of the old abundance and in some places as in the Fennes they burne Turffe and the very dung of Cowes Yet in the meane time England exports great quantity of Seacoale to forraine parts In like sort England hath infinite quantity as of Mettalls so of Wooll and of VVoollen cloathes to be exported The English Beere is famous in Netherland and lower Germany which is made of Barley and Hops for England yeelds plenty of Hops howsoeuer they also vse Flemish Hops The Cities of lower Germany vpon the sea forbid the publike selling of English Beere to satisfie their owne brewers yet priuately swallow it like Nectar But in Netherland great and incredible quantity thereof is spent England abounds with corne which they may transport when a quarter in some places containing sixe in others eight bushels is sold for twenty shillings or vnder and this corne not onely serues England but also serued the English Army in the ciuil warres of Ireland at which time they also exported great quantity thereof into forraigne parts and by Gods mercy England scarce once in ten yeeres needes supply of forraigne Corne which want commonly proceeds of the couetousnesse of priuate men exporting or hiding it Yet I must confesse that daily this plenty of Corne decreaseth by reason that priuate men finding greater commoditie in feeding of Sheepe and Cattell then in the Plough requiring the hands of many seruants can by no Law be restrained from turning corne fields into inclosed Pastures especially since great men are the first to breake these Lawes England abounds with all kinds of foule aswell of the Sea as of the land and hath more tame Swannes swimming in the Riuers then I did see in any other part It hath multitudes of hurtfull birds as Crowes Rauens and Kytes and they labor not to destroy the Crowes consuming great quantity of Corne because they feede on wormes and other things hurting the Corne. And in great Cities it is forbidden to kill Kytes or Rauens because they deuoure the filth of the streetes England hath very great plenty of Sea and Riuer fish especiallie aboue all other parts abundance of Oysters Makrell and Herrings and the English are very industrous in fishing though nothing comparable to the Flemmings therein The English export into Italy great quantity of red Herrings with gaine of two or three for one not to speake in this place of other commodities which they export with great gaine and in this fishing they are very industrious as well in the Sea vpon the coasts as in the Northerne Ilands To conclude they export in great quantity all kinds of salted fishes and those dried in the smoke and pickled as Pilchards Poore Iohn Cauiale Botargo and the like which they sell in Italy and those parts at a deare rate England abounds with pulse of all kinds and yeelds great quantitie of Saffron and of Flax wherof they haue also great quantitie froÌ Dantzke whence also they haue like plentie of Pitch and of Firre trees for Masts of ships which two things if England wanted not I durst say that this Iland or part of an Iland abounds with all things necessary for honest clothing large and dainty feeding and for warre by land and sea As for warre it hath not onely the aforesaid mettalls but also great quantity of Salt-peter Besides the famous Broad cloth it yeelds for clothing many Stuffes whereof great quantitie is also exported And I will not omit that howsoeuer it hath silke from forraigne parts yet the English silke stockings are much to bee preferred before those of Italy Spaine or any part in the World England abounds in Cattell of all kinds and particularly hath very great Oxen the flesh whereof is so tender as no meate is more desired The Cowes are also great with large vdders yeelding plenty of Whitmeates no part in the World yeelding greater variety nor better of that kind And the hides of Oxen are contrary to the common good exported in great quantity by vniustifiable licenses though
Barley and Oates and all a plaine Country but it had no Woodes at all onely the Gentlemens dwellings were shaddowed with some little Groues pleasant to the view Scotland abounds with Fish and hath plenty of all Cattell yet not so bigge as ours and their Horses are full of spirit and patient of labour but very little so as the Scots then would giue any price for one of our English Gueldings which notwithstanding in Queene Elizabethe time might not vpon great penalty be sold vnto them The Nauy or shipping of Scotland was of small strength in the memory of our Age neither were their Marriners of greet experience but to make them more diligent Merchants their Kings had formerly laid small or no impositions or customes on them And while the English had warre with the Spaniards the Scots as neutrals by carrying of English commodities into Spaine and by hauing their ships for more security laden by English Merchants grew somewhat richer and more experienced in Nauigation and had better and stronger shippes then in former time And surely since the Scots are very daring I cannot see why their Marriners should not bee bold and couragious howsoeuer they haue not hitherto made any long voyages rather for want of riches then for slothfulnesse or want of courage The Inhabitants of the Westerne parts of Scotland carry into Ireland and Neighbouring places red and pickeled Herrings Sea coales and Aquauitae with like commodities and bring out of Ireland Yarne and Cowes hides or Siluer The Easterne Scots carry into France course cloathes both linnen and woollen which be narrow and shrinke in the wetting They also carry thether Wooll Skinnes of Goates Weathers and of Conies and diuers kindes of Fishes taken in the Scottish Sea and neere other Northerne Ilands and after smoked or otherwise dried and salted And they bring from thence Salt and Wines but the cheese trafficke of the Scots is in foure places namely at Camphire in Zeland whether they carry Salt the skinnes of Weathers Otters Badgers and Martens and bring from thence Corne. And at Burdeaux in France whether they carry cloathes and the same skinnes and bring from thence Wines Prunes Walnuts and Chessenuts Thirdly within the Balticke Sea whether they carry the said Clothes and Skinnes and bring thence Flaxe Hempe Iron Pitch and Tarre And lastly in England whether they carry Linnen cloathes Yarne and Salt and bring thence Wheate Oates Beanes and like things The Scots haue no Staple in any forraigne City but trade in France vpon the League of the Nations and in Denmarke haue priuiledges by the affinity of the Kings and stocke in great numbers into Poland abounding in all things for foode and yeelding many commodities And in these Kingdomes they liued at this time in great multitudes rather for the pouerty of their owne Kingdome then for any great trafficke they exercised there dealing rather for small fardels then for great quantities of rich wares Touching their diet They eate much red Colewort and Cabbage but little fresh meate vsing to salt theit Mutton and Geese which made me more wonder that they vsed to eate Beefe without salting The Gentlemen reckon their reuenewes not by rents of monie but by chauldrons of victuals and keepe many people in their Families yet liuing most on Corne and Rootes not spending any great quantity of flesh My self was at a Knights house who had many seruants to attend him that brought in his meate with their heads couered with blew caps the Table being more then halfe furnished with great platters of porredge each hauing a little peece of sodden meate And when the Table was serued the seruants did sit downe with vs but the vpper messe in steede of porredge had a Pullet with some prunes in the broth And I obserued no Art of Cookery or furniture of Houshold stuffe but rather rude neglect of both though my selfe and my companion sent from the Gouernour of Barwicke about bordering affaires were entertained after their best manner The Scots liuing then in factions vsed to keepe many followers and so consumed their reuenew of victuals liuing in some want of money They vulgarly eate harth Cakes of Oates but in Cities haue also wheaten bread which for the most part was bought by Courtiers Gentlemen and the best sort of Citizens When I liued at Barwicke the Scots weekely vpon the market day obtained leaue in writing of the Gouernour to buy Pease and Beanes whereof as also of Wheate their Merchants at this day send great quantity from London into Scotland They drinke pure Wines not with sugar as the English yet at Feasts they put Comfits in the Wine after the French manner but they had not our Vinteners fraud to mixe their Wines I did neuer see nor heare that they haue any publike Innes with signes hanging out but the better sort of Citizens brew Ale their vsuall drinke which will distemper a strangers bodie and the same Citizens will entertaine passengers vpon acquaintance or entreaty Their bedsteads were then like Cubbards in the wall with doores to be opened and shut at pleasure so as we climbed vp to our beds They vsed but one sheete open at the sides and top but close at the feete and so doubled Passengers did seeke a stable for their Horses in some other place and did there buy hors-meat and if perhaps the same house yeelded a stable yet the payment for the Horse did not make them haue beds free as in England I omit to speake of the Innes and expences therein hauing delated the same in the Itinerary of the first Part and a Chapter in this Part expressely treating thereof When passengers goe to bed their custome was to present them with a sleeping cuppe of wine at parting The Country people and Merchants vsed to drinke largely the Gentlemen some-what more sparingly yet the very Courtiers at Fcasts by night meetings and entertaining any stranger vsed to drinke healths not without excesse and to speake truth without offence the excesse of drinking was then farre greater in generall among the Scots then the English My selfe being at the Court inuited by some Gentlemen to supper and being forewarned to feare this excesse would not promise to sup with thembut vpon condition that my Inuiter would be my protection from large drinking which I was many times forced to inuoke being curteously entertained and much prouoked to garaussing and so for that time auoided any great intemperance Remembring this and hauing since obserued in my conuersation at the English Court with the Scots of the better sort that they spend great part of the night in drinking not onely wine but euen beere as my selfe will not accuse them of great intemperance so I cannot altogether free them from the imputation of excesse wherewith the popular voice chargeth them CHAP. V. Of Ireland touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of Ireland extends foure degrees from the Meridian of eleuen degrees and a halfe
from so disunited mindes as they haue He addes that the free Cities of the Empire yeeld a small yeerely tribute to the Emperour of fifteene thousand Guldens It is well nowne that those Cities of old custome maintained twenty thousand foote and foure thousand Horses for the Emperours Army when he went to be crowned at Rome but this custome by long discontinuance is vanished since the Emperours for many ages haue forborne this expedition The matter of greatest moment is the contribution which for the doubtfull affaires of the Empire hath been accustomed to be granted by the three Estates in Parliament And these such as they are yet are more easily or hardly obtained of that free Nation as the Emperour hath more or lesse reputation with them But that it may appeare that the Empire wants not treasure the sinew of war let vs gather by one particular example what may generally be iudged of this subsidie In the time of the Emperour Maximilian the first the following subsidie was granted in a Dyet or Parlament at Worms by consent of the Estates for the vse of the Common-wealth and especially for the warre against the Turkes which at that time much lesse pressed Germany then it doth in these our daies First it was decreed that for foure yeeres next following each person of any sex or quality howsoeuer possessing through long and broad Germany or being worth by all meanes 500 gold Guldens should yerely pay half a gold Gulden to this purpose and each one of lesse value should pay a quarter of a gold Gulden and all Iewes as well men as women and children should pay yearely by the Pole one gold gulden That Princes Barons for decency yet of their free will should contribute much more And that this collection should be made not onely in the priuate Dominions of the Emperour but in the priuat Teritories of al Princes and the mony first deliuered to the Superintendents or chiefe Ministers of Gods word and by them be conueied to seuen Treasurers residing at Franckfort the first appointed by the Emperour the second by the Electors the third by other Princes the fourth by the Prelates the fifth by the Earles and Barons the sixth by the Knights the seuenth by the free Cities all which were to take their oathes for the faithfull execution of this office After it was againe decreed in the Diet held at Nurnberg that for the Turkish warre each 40 inhabitants reckoning the husband wife and children for one person should maintaine one Footeman That men and maid seruants should giue the sixth part of their yeerely wages and each one hauing no wages should pay a shilling of Germany That spirituall persons men and women that is Nunnes as well as others should for each forty Guldens value pay one gold Gulden and in like sort the spirituall Orders of Knights and namely those of Saint Iohn and all Monasteries and Almes-houses and whatsoeuer spirituall communities should giue the like contribution excepting the foure Orders of Mendicant Friers of which each fiue Monasteries were to maintaine one Footeman That men and maid-seruants of Spirituall persons should pay as much as those of the Layety That no Elector or Prince should maintaine lesse then fiue hundred Horses and each Earle should maintaine one Horseman That Knights should contribute according to their estates That the Iewes should pay by the Pole one gold Gulden yearely the rich paying for the poore That all Preachers should in the Pulpit exhort men willingly to giue these contributions giuing hope that they shall be diminished according to the booties gotten by victories And that Bishops should make collection of this money and deliuer it ouer to the Counsellers of the States Twenty Noble men were at that time chosen to haue care of the Commonwealth for matters of peace and warre who in difficult accidents were to call vnto them the sixe Electors the King of Bohemia in the Emperours person not reckoned and certaine other Princes And this must alwaies be vnderstood that these collections are made in Germany with great seuerity or strictnesse where he that dissembles his full wealth shall be forced to repaire all the domage the Commonwealth hath sustained thereby and shall bee also deepely fined when the fraude is made knowne which at least will appeare at the death of each priuate man by his last will and testament So as these subsidies must needs be of great moment But the Germans in our daies though ready to be deuoured by the Iawes of the Turkish Tyrant yet for the aboue-named causes very vnwillingly grant these contributions yea for the very Turkish warre The Germans for the said mutuall iealosies at this day in the greatest Peace at home yet liue as in the time of a Ciuill warre at least in common feare of surprising so as almost in all Cities they haue victuals laid vp in Storehouses to beare a yeeres siege and besides this publike prouision all housholders are commanded to make their priuate prouisions before hand of dried fishes corne and like things to eate of fewell to burne and of all necessaries to exercise their manuall trades The Cities haue Watchmen continually dwelling with their families on the top of high Steeples and Towers who by sound of Trumpet and by hanging out flags of diuers colours one for horsemen another for footemen continually giue warning what people approach to the Towne and in what number and besides these Watchmen are inioyned to sound their Trumpets at certaine howers of the day and night The very recreations of the Citizens are no other then shooting in Pieces and Crosebowes at markes in publike houses and thus they exercise themselues on Holidaies and at all idle times shooting for wagers both priuate and publike and for like rewards and prises So as they must needes bee thereby much better trained vp for warre Yet their footemen in warre doe not so much vse the Piece as the Pike and their Horsemen contrarie to the custome of other Nations are generally armed with two short Pistols not at all with Lances To conclude if any man in this time of peace shoote ofa piece within the wals of a Citie he shall no lesse then in a Towne of Garrison bee drawne by the Serieants before the Magistrate be sure to pay a mulct for his error Caesar reports that the Schwaben or people of Sueuta a great Prouince in Germany most part of vpper Germany hauing been so called of old were most warlike yet at the first hearing so feared the Romans as some thought to leaue their dwellings some made their last wils and all mourned and were sad He reports also that the halfe part of this people was imployed and nourished in Armes and the other halfe gaue themselues to Husbandry and that so by yeerely course they were one yeere Husbandmen another yeere Souldiers That none of them had any priuate fields nor dwelt in one place more then a yeere Lastly that freedome
succeeded vnto and alwaies part of the goods is giuen if not by law yet by equitie to maintaine the bastards and the Interpreters will haue the law of Saxony vnderstood of those that are borne in incest who haue not the benefit of legitimation By the Ciuill law he that is borne in the seuenth moneth after marriage is reputed lawfully begotten but by the law of Saxony hee is reputed a bastard that is borne before the due time yet because Phisitians agree that the seuenth moneth may be called due time in custome and practise the law of Saxony agrees with the Ciuill law By the Ciuill Law the Testament is broken by the birth of a Posthumus that is a sonne borne after his fathers death if it giue no part to this child so the birth be proued by two witnesses but by the Law of Saxony foure men by hearesay and two women by sight must testifie the birth In the Ciuill Law it is controuerted how sonnes of brothers shall succeed the vnkle by the fathers side and the greater part saith that they succeed to the parts of the brothers so as one child of a brother shall haue as much as two or more children of another brother but by the Law of Saxony when the inheritance fals to any that are not brothers and sisters they succeed by pole so as one brother hauing many children each of them shall haue equall part with the onely child of another brother and if they be further off in degrees those that are equall in degree haue equall portions But both these Lawes are made to agree by a Statute of the Emperour Charles the fifth in the yeere 1539 whereby it is determined that the sonnes of brothers shall not succeed to parts but by pole to the Vnkle by the Fathers side not withstanding any Statute or custome to the contrary By the Ciuill Law the diuision of Inheritance must be made by Lots and if the parts be not so made equall the Iudge must determine it but by the Law of Saxony if there be onely two persons the elder deuideth and the yonger chuseth and if there be more persons then according to the Ciuill Law the inheritance is deuided equally and they cast lots for their parts In this deuision I haue obserued such equity among the Saxons as if one sonne of a Citizen haue beene brought vp in the Vniuersity or instructed in any Art or Science at the Fathers charge something shall be taken from his part and giuen to the other brothers wanting like education or being tender in yeeres And the Germans being lesse apt to disagreement seldome goe to Law about inheritance and if any difference happen an Arbiter is appointed and the Magistrate determines it with expedition By the Ciuill Law the Sonne of a banished man is depriued of his Fathers inheritance but by the Law of Saxony he shall enioy it By the Ciuill Law the degrees of Consanguinity end in the tenth degree excepting Barrons and noble persons who dying without heires the kinsmen succeede though it be in the hundreth degree and if all the Family of a King should die and leaue no man neerer then one of the old blood remoued a thousand degrees yet hee should succeed in the Kingdome The degree of Consanguinity by the Law of Saxony ends in the seuenth degree for that is the tenth by the Ciuill Law the sonnes of two brothers being by the Law of Saxony in the first degree who by the Ciuill Law are in the fourth degree By the Ciuill Law Cities howsoeuer priuiledged cannot possesse the vacant goods of men dying without heires but they fall to the Emperour but by the Law of Saxony Cities that haue absolute power confiscate these goods by custome so as the goods of a stranger or any dying without heires are brought to the Iudges of the place who keepe them for one whole yeere yea they challenge vnmoueable goods but with prescription of yeeres And these goods vse to be conuerted to godly vses and I haue obserued some to be deepely fined for fraudulent detaining these goods By the Ciuill Law he that is of age so he be in his wits and no prodigall person may freely sell giue or by any course alienate his goods but by the Law of Saxony this power is restrained for no man without the consent of the next heires can alienate vnmoueable goods gotten by his Progenitors vulgarly called Stamgûtter but onely for godly vses or dowries giuen vpon marriage for contracts of dowry are of force for vse and property without consent of the heires though made after the marriage if the guift be confirmed by the giuers death but if any man will sell his Progenitors goods first by the Ciuill Law he must offer them to be bought to the next heires and they refusing to buy them he may then freely sell them to any man and if they were neuer offered to the heires notwithstanding the possession is transferred but the heires haue an action for their interest By the Ciuill Law weakenesse as of old age doth not make the guift of lesse force but by the Law of Saxony a man or woman sicke to death cannot without the consent of the heires giue any goods aboue the value of fiue shillings so as a certaine solemnity is required among the sicke and also those that are healthfull in the gift of any moueable or vnmoueable goods For among the sicke or healthfull he that will giue any goods if he be of Knightly Order hee must be of that strength as armed with his Sword and Target he can vpon a stone or block an ell high mount his horse and his seruant is admitted also to hold his stirrop If he be a Citizen he must beable to walke in the way to draw his Sword and to stand vp right before the Iudge while the gift is made And a Clowne must be able to follow the Plow one morning Lastly a woman must be of that strength as shee can goe to the Church of a certaine distance and there stand so long till the guift be made but these things are vnderstood of guifts among the liuing not of guifts vpon death By the Ciuill Law guifts are of force though made out of the place where the goods are seated but by the Law of Saxony for vnmoueable goods the guift must bee made in the place and before the Iudge of the place where the goods are seated onely some cases excepted By the Ciuill Law the heire that makes no Inuentory is tied to the Creditors aboue the goods of Inheritance but by the Law of Saxony he is neither tied to make an Inuentory nor to pay further then the goods of the deceased extend By the Ciuill Law within ten dayes and by the Law of Saxony within thirty dayes after the death of him that dies the heire may not be troubled by the creditors An Imperiall Statute decrees that he who makes a Testament must be in his right mind so as he
those of Friburg those of Scheneberg those of Anneberg and those of the valey of Ioachim of al which I haue written at large in the Geographicall description And no doubt this Elector is potent in treasure so as how soeuer he be inferiour in dignity to the Elector Palatine yet he is most powerfull of all the Electors Among the walled Cities subiect to him not to speake of the Townes Castles and pleasant Villages Leipzig is next to Dresden to which it onely yeelds for the fortifications and the Electors Court Leipzig giues the Law to the vpper Territorie as Wittenburg doth to the lower and both are adorned by being Vniuersities but at Leipzig the Scabines sit Iudges of great Authoritie for the Law of Saxony being in number seuen namely three Senators of the City and foure Doctors of the Ciuill Law But Wittenberg hath not the right of the Sword to execute malefactors which the Elector Augustus they say translated to Leipzig because the Iudges obstinately denied him power to pardon malefactors or to moderate the Law So as when any man is capitally accused at Wittenberg the cause is first referred to the Scabines at Leipzig who finding him guilty giue power to the Senators of Wittenberg to pronounce sentence and doe execution Wittenberg is no faire City but a famous Vniuersitie and at this time had a great many of Students and it is not subiect to the Duke as inheritance from his progenitors but as he is Elector for to the Electorship it properly belongeth Besides the great tributes it pales for Beare it also yeelds yeerely to the Duke 1500 gold Guldens for the Bridge built ouer the Elue Here as in all other places Lime and Brick are sold in the Dukes name and to his vse As well Leipzig as Wittenberg in difficult cases aske counsell for the Ciuill Law of their owne and if need be of forraigne Vniuersities where the Doctors of the Ciuill Law in the name of the Faculty write downe their iudgement in the case propounded These Doctors are also Aduocates whereof there were twenty two at this time at Leipzig and because this profession is much esteemed the Germans willingly apply themselues to the study thereof The Count Palatine of the Rheine by old institution is cheefe among the temporall Electors and is of the same Family of which the Dukes of Bauaria descend The Pedegree of them both is deriued from the Emperour Charles the Great Otho the elder brother Palatine of Wirtelbach vpon the proscription of the Duke of Bauaria had that Dukedome conferred on him in fee by the Emperour in the yeere 1180. From his younger brother descend the Counts of Salmes now liuing But from the said Otho the elder brother are descended both the Palatines Electors and the Dukes of Bauaria now liuing Lodwicke Duke of Bauaria who died in the yeere 1231 receiued the Palatinate of the Rheine in fee from the Emperour Fredericke the second Otho the fourth succeeded him in the Dukedome of Bauaria and the Palatinate of the Rheine and was the first Elector of this Family who died in the yeere 1253. His sonne Lodwicke the seuere Elector Pallatine and Duke of Bauaria made Rodolphus of Habsburg Emperour who was the first Emperour of the House of Austria He married this Emperours Daughter died in the yeere 1294 leauing two sonnes who diuided the inheritance as followeth From this Rodulphus discend the Counts Palatines and Electors Rodulphus the elder Brother was Count Palatine of the Rheine Elector who died 1319. Rupert Palatine of the Rheine Elector founded the Vniuersitie in Heidelberg in the yeere 1346. Rupert Elector and Emperour died in the yeere 1410. Lodwick Count Palatine and Elector The Elector Frederike the second discending from him freed Vienna from the siege of the Turkes and died 1556. Otho Henrich his Nephew died 1559 without heires males and so the Electorship fell to the Duke of Zweybruck Stephen Duke of Zweybruck Frederike Palatine Iohn the first Iohn the second Frederike the third succeeded Otho Henrich in the Electorship and died 1576. Lodwick the fourth Elector Palatine married the daughter of the Langraue of Hessen and died 1583. Frederike the fourth Elector then Pupill to Iohn Casimire his Vncle. The first house of the Palatines and Electors in two branches Christian his sole Sister Iohn Casunire was Tutor to his Nephew and Elector in his nonage and married Elizabeth sister to Christian Duke of Saxony and died 1592. Dorethea his sole Daughter Elizabeth married to Iohn Frederike Duke of Saxony called of Coburg Susan Dorothy married to Iohn William Duke of Saxonie called of Wineberg Anna Maria maried to Phillip the 2 Langraue of Hessen Kunigunde Iacobe married to the Count of Nassawe Richard D. of Hunneseruck liuing when I wrote this The 2 brach of the first house Lodwick the blacke Alexander Lodwick Wolfgang D. of Sweybruck maried the Daughter to the Langraue of Hessen and died in the French warres 1569. Phillip Lodwick married the daughter to the Duke of Iulice Of three Daughters one married to Frederike William Duke of Saxony Wolfgang borne 1578. Augustus borne 1582. Iohn Frederike borne 1587. Iohn married to another Daughter of the Duke of Iulce Two Sonnes and two Daughters The second House of the Countes Palatines in foure branches then liuing the last branches being multiplied from Phillip Lodwick being then children Frederike married the Daughter of the Duke of Lignic Two Twins borne 1591. Otho Henrich married the Daughter to the Duke of Wirterberg He had both sons and daughters Eight Sisters partly dead partly liuing then Rupert Of Rupert is George borne of the Daughter to Gustanus King of Swetia who then was liuing He had 3 sonnes and diuers daughters A fifth branch of the second house of the Countes Palatines Thus of Rodulphus the eldest sonne to Lodwick the Seuere descend two houses in many branches of the Countes Palatines whereof the chiefe and first hath the Electorship And of Lodwick the Emperour the second sonne to Lodwick the Seuere descend the Dukes of Bauaria as followeth Lodwick the yonger Brother was D. of Bauaria and was made Emperor who died 1347. The Dukes of Bauaria Lodwick the Emperour had two sonnes Stephen Duke of Bauaria who died 1392. Frederike Duke of Bauaria died 1404. George the rich founded the Vniuersitie of Ingolstat and built the Colledge of Saint George and died 1503. Elizabeth his Daughter was maried to Rupert Count Palatine and to Rupert George by his last Will gaue the Dukedome of Bauaria but the Emperour Maximiuan would not confirme this gift as iniurious to the next heire in this pedegree whence rose the warre of Bauaria Iohn of Monach Duke of Bauaria died 1397. Albert the third refused to be chosen King of Bohemia and died 1460. Albert the fourth brought the Channons of 2 Monasteries to Monach and that of his owne authoritie for which he hardly escaped the proscription of the Empire and to him the Emperour adiudged the
chosen Emperour was ouercome by his Competitor and being againe raised to that dignitie was put from it by Frederike the second and died 1218. Otho his brothers Sonne was forced to yeeld the Dukedome of Saxony to the Elector of Saxony Albert the second And the Emperour Frederick the second cast his Garrison out of Brunswick with the helpe of the Citizens and made Brunswick a free Imperiall City But at last the Emperour vpon the submission of Otho forgaue him and created him Duke of Brunswick and Luneburg This Otho died in the yeere 1252 from whom this house was subdeuided into the following Families From Henrie the Wonderfull descend the Lords of Ember and Grobenbagen From Albert the Fat dying in the yeere 1318 descend the Dukes of Brunswick and of Luneburg as followeth Magnus Torquatus heire of both Dukedomes whose garrison the citizens of Luneburg cast out of the castle Calkberg left three sonnes Frederick chosen Emperour against Wenceslaus killed by treachetie in the yeere 1400. Bernard after the killing of his brother yeelded the D. of Brunswick to his Nephew William retaining the D. of Luneburg died 1434. From Bernard descend Otho who exhibited the Reformed Confession at Augtburg and died 1549. Otho Lord of Harburg had to his first wife the daughter to the Earle of Schwartzenburg and with the second Wife Daughter to the Earle of Emden hee then liued when I passed though Germany Otho had by his first wife two sonnes Otho Henrich borne 1555 and Iohn Frederick borne 1557 and one daughter Elizabeth borne 1553 and married to the King of Suecia And by his second wife sixe sonnes William borne 1564. Euno borne 1565. Christopher borne 1570. Otho borne 1572. Iohn borne 1573. Frederick borne 1578. And three daughters Anna Margarita borne 1567. Heduigis borne 1569. Catherina Sophia borne 1577. The first house of the Dukes of Luneburg and Brunswick for the titles are coÌmon to al. Anne borne 1526. And Ernest who reformed Religion and died 1546 buried at Cella Henry maried the daughter of the D. of the lower Saxony dwelling at Angria Henry had three sons Iulius Ernestus borne 1571. Francis Cannon of Strasburg borne 1572. And Augustus borne 1579. And two daughters Sibilla Elizabetha borne 1576. And Sidonia borne 1577. The second branch likewise Dukes of Luneburg and Brunswick William in the yere 1561 married Dorothy Daughter to Christian King of Denmarke William had seuen sons Ernest borne 1564. Christian borne 1561. Augustus borne 1568. Frederick borne 1574. Magnus borne 1577 then Rector of the Vniuersitie of Iena George borne 1582. Iohn borne 1583. And seuen daughters Sophia married to George Marquis of Brandeburg 1579. Elizabeth to the Count of Hohelm 1585. Doroty borne 1570. Clara 1571. Margaret 1573. Marie 1575. And Sibilla 1584. The third branch with the same titles Francis of the reformed religion left two daughters no heires males and died 1549. Henrie died before his brother Frederick William the Victorious at the death of his Vncle Frederick possessed the Dukedome of Brunswick which his Vncle Bernard did yeeld to him Hee died 1482. Dukes of Brunswick From William the Victorious descends Henry who twise in vaine besieged Brunswick aided by other free Cities He died 1514. Henrie made captiue by the Elector of Saxony 1545 twice besieged Brunswick He had two sisters and foure brothers Ericus Christopher Bishop of Verden Francis and George Archbishop of Breme The eldest married Mary Daughter to the Duke of Wirtenberg and died 1568. Iulius his two elder Brethren being killed left his Priest-hood reformed Religion after Luthers doctrine founded an Vniuersitie at Helmstat and called it Iulia married Heduigis daughter to Ioachim the second Elector of Brandeburg and died in the yeere 1589. Henrie Iulius borne 1562 Administrator of two Bishopricks of Halberstat and Mind first married Dorothy Daughter to Augustus Elector of Saxony then Elizabeth daughter to Frederike King of Denmark yet liuing By his first wife he had Dorothy Heduigis borne 1587 by the second Frederike Vdalrike borne 1591. Three brothers Philip Sigismond Bishop of Verden borne 1568. Ioachim Carolus borne 1573. Iulius Augustus borne 1578. Fiue sisters Sophia married to Ernest Duke of Pomeru Mary to Francis D. of lower Saxony 1582. Elizabeth to the Count of Schaumberg Dorothy borne 1577. Heduigis 1580. The second house of the Duke of Brunswicke more powerfull then all the former ioyned He had foure sisters Catherine married to Iohn Marquisse of Brandeburg Margaret to the D. of Munsterberg Clara first an Abbesse then married to Phillip Lord of Grachenhage And Mary an Abbesse And Ericus called the Popish Ericus called also the Popish married his daughter to Iohn Prince Dauria of Genoa in Italy He had a base sonne who died without issue and lies buried with his Father at Pauia in Italy The Duke of Brunswicke keepes his Court at a strong Castle within the little City Wolfeubeiten lesse then a German mile distant from Brunswick of which City he beares the title in respect it of old belonged to his Progenitors in which kind he is also called Duke of Luneburg to which he hath right of succession and Purgraue of Nurnberg which title hath beene long extinct not that he hath any least power ouer the City or so much as a house therein whom the Citizens rather wish many miles remoued from them I haue said that Henry Iulius Duke of Brunswick hath three brothers and that the eldest of them was Bishop of Verden but when my selfe passed that way I vnderstood that of these three younger brothers the eldest was Bishop of Osenburg the next Channon of Strasburg and that the youngest was a Student in the Vniuersity of Helmstatt founded by his Father And it is worth obseruation that the Duke himselfe was Administrator of two Bishoprickes I haue shewed that the City of Brunswicke got their liberty by the Sword in the time of Duke Otho and with the aide of the Emperour Fredericke the second And as they gained it by Armes so they maintaine it hauing beene often besieged by the Dukes and to this day bearing vp the same against the Dukes with whom they cease not to expostulate that they vsurpe the title of their City And not long before my passage that way when at the marriage of the Duke with the sister to the King of Denmarke the Citizens of Brunswicke discharged some great Peeces of Artillery in honour of the marriage yet so great are the iealousies betweene the Duke and them as hee tooke it in ill part and shaking his head for anger said it was done in ostentation of their strength and as the threatning of enemies rather then the triumph of friends And the Senators of Brunswicke though inuited to the marriage yet would not come thither Neither doe they willingly suffer the Duke to come into their City And not long before when the Duke for pleasure disguised himselfe as a Carman and droue a Cart of wood into the City to be sold there the
chief Consul hauing notice therof commanded the gates to be shut and the streets to be chained when the Duke had long sate vpon the cart with some annoiance by reason of raine and found he could not goe back and thought it dangerous to goe into any priuate house at last the Consul bought his wood and so drew the Duke to his house where he intertained him honorably yet remembred him that he had put himselfe in needles danger knowing the ill affection of the common people towards him and then sending for the Dukes servantes to attend him led him out of the city with honour Luneburg a free City of the Empire is strongly fortified and statly built but hath no lesse ielosy with the neighbor Dukes bearing the title of the City yet they neither dwell in the City nor medle with the gouernment therof but abide at Cella and at Sethern some twelue miles distant and in other Cities of that Prouince according to the diuision of their inheritance betweene them The Citizens of Luneburg knowing that of old they bought their liberty of these Dukes and that to this day they pay them some tributes iustly feare lest the Duke or his Brothers and Cosens being many in number shold practise any thing against their liberty or at least being poor shold seek new occasioÌs to extort mony froÌ them The Duke of old had a strong Castle built vpon a Mountaine hanging ouer the City vulgarly called Kalckberg that is the Mountaine of Chalke but the Butchers of the City at a Shroftide making shew of mustering in Armes tooke this Castle for which seruice to the Common-wealth the Butchers to this day haue the keeping therof But the Citizens are so suspitious lest it should be betraied to the Duke for mony as if any of them who keep it doe at any time goe forth of it into the City or to any other place they are no more permitted to enter the same Vpon the furthest shore of the Baltike sea towards the North-east the free City of Dantzke is seated It is free in respect of priuiledges for traffique and for that it is gouerned by the Senators and the Lawes of the City yet not numbered among the Imperiall Cities because it in some sort acknowledgeth the King of Poland and paies some couenanted tributes to his Minister residing in the City In the time of Stephen Bathory Prince of Transiluania and King of Poland this City was by him besieged and forced to pay these tributes Whervpon the Citizens to pay them without their own preiudice doubled all Impositions vpon strangers trading there The Consul of the City there as in all Germany is vulgarly called Burgomaster he iudgeth all ciuill criminal causes but appeales are granted from him to the Colledge of ciuil Lawyers from them to the Senate of the City and in some causes from the Senate to the King of Poland This City consists of three Cities vulgarly called Reichstat Furstat Altstatt that is the City of the Kingdome the fore City and the old City and each hath his gates and his Senate and the Consull may be chosen out of either Senate so as for the time of his Office he reside in the cheefe City called Reichstatt Here be the furthest limits of the Empire towards the North and the East And from hence towards the West Iles the shore of the Balticke Sea and of the German Ocean vpon which are seated Stetinum Meckleburg Lubecke Hamburg and Breame Imperiall Cities and free as weli for priuiledges of trafficke in neighbour Kingdomes as for absolute gouernement at home And in East-Freesland for West-Freesland belongs to Netherland the furthest limits of the Empire towards the West and North end in the City of Emden This City hath his Count bearing title of the City and of late he kept his Court therein but the Citizens professing the reformed Doctrine of Caluin and the Count attempting to force them to the profession of Luthers Doctrine not long before I passed that way the Citizens expelled the Count and gaue oath to the Senators of the City to obey them to be ready in armes for the defence of the City and not to remoue their dwellings from thence without leaue of the Senate And the Citizens were thus confident because the City lies vpon the confines of the Netherlanders who maintained men of warre in that Inland Sea and vpon the Riuer passing by the wals of the City to stop any passage and to defend the ships of Merchants forced in those flats to expect the returne of the tide And generally it was thought that Emden would ioine in league with the vnited Prouinces of Netherland but as yet it remained vnder the Empire not free by priuiledge nor yet subiect to the Count of Emden This Count at this time had two sonnes by the daughter of the King of Suelia and howsoeuer his younger brother by the loue of his mother had obtained the best part of the inheritance yet he had no children nor was thought likely to haue any so as no doubt was then made but that the whole inheritance would after his death returne to the children of the elder brother And these things shall suffice briefly written in generall of the Common-wealth of Germany and in particular of the absolute Dominions vnder the Empire CHAP. V. Of the Common-wealth of Sweitzerland according to the diuers subiects of the former Chapters THE Sweitzers deriued of diuers peoples and among others of the Schwalen and Friselanders howsoeuer they be Germans both in language and manners yet because the old Galles gaue them a seat at the foote of the Alpes they were accounted Galles or French till the time of Iulius Caesar. In the Commentaries of Caesar wee find their Commonwealth diuided into foure Communities whereof one namely that of Zurech had not long before ouerthrown the Army of Lucius Cassius Consul of Rome About this time the Sweitzers weary of their barren seat attempted to seeke a new place of dwelling had not Caesar ouercome them and contained them at home And from that time to the daies of Charles the Great and so long as his race possessed the renewed Empire of the West they were still esteemed Galles but when that imperiall dignity fell to the Germans they became subiects to those Emperours and were numbred among the Germans hauing the same manners lawes and customes with them as at this day they haue The Emperours gouerned this Nation by Gouernours vulgarly called Reichs vogt till at last the Common-wealth of the Sweitzers was seuered from that of the Germans and made a free state which in the age before ours hath gotten great reputation And here it is worthy to be obserued that the ambition of Popes and their diuellish tyranny ouer the Emperours not onely after some eight hundred yeeres from Christ caused almost all the Garboyles of States whereof we haue heard or read or which with our owne eyes wee haue
seene but in particular were the chiefe yea sole causes of rending this strong member from the body of the Empire Sweitzerland about that time abounded with noble Families and them the Gouernours fauoured to increase their owne power whereupon they oppressed the common people and prouoked their extreame hatred so as they were forced to combine themselues in mutuall league against this oppression yet the common people had neuer dared to oppose themselues to the Gentry if the Empire had enioied peace But when the Bishops of Rome often cast out their spirituall thunderbolts I meane excommunications against the Emperours and aswell absolued all subiects from the Oath of Allegiance as heartried ambitious Traitors to be competitors against the Emperours yea stirred vp their Kinsman and their very Children to make ciuill warre with them in this confused Anarchy a Patron was not wanting to the most wicked person to defend him so he would follow his party Hence it came that when the Emperour Fredericke the second in the yeere 1240 receiued the common people of Sweitzerland into his protection against the Gentlemen they likewise as the Clients of Monasteries followed the Popes party whereupon the people of Zurech the Vrij and Suitij of whom the whole Nation is called Sweitzers being three Communities first in the yeere 1251 made a league for three yeeres against the Gentlemen lying in waite to intrap them and after by little and little they made more firme and perpetuall leagues for defence of absolute liberty and seruing diuers Emperours in the Parall tumults from time to time obtained great priuiledges Then they drew other Communities and neighbour Cities to be partners of their leagues Finally after they had rooted out the Families of Gentlemen and had by conspiracy castout the Gouernours of the Arch-Dukes of Austria to who in the Lordship of Sweitzerland was fallen they in processe of time attained this absolute State which we see them enioy at this day For the foresaid strife continuing betweene the Emperours and the Popes and Lodwick of Bauaria contending for the Empire with Fredericke of the House of Austria the Sweitzers tooke part with Lodwicke who expresly ratified the freedome or liberty of then Common-wealth And that consists of three parts the communities vulgarly called Cantons the fellowes or confederates and the stipendary Cities or gouernements to which Semler addeth the forraigue leagues for a fourth part The communities are vulgarly called Orts and by the Italians Cantons of the Sweitzers as we will hereafter call them and they are thirteene in number Among these Cantons the Vrij comming from the Taurisci the Suitij comming from the Cimbri the Vnderualdij of the race of banished Romans about the yeere 1308 made a mutual league for ten yeeres and hauing ouercome in battell Leopold Arch-Duke of Austria in the yeere 1315 made this league perpetuall Lucerna the fourth Canton being much wronged while it was vnder the Patronage of the House of Austria to auoide tyranny in that confusion of the Empire did in the yeere 1332 ioine it selfe in perpetuall league Zurech a free City of the Empire was in like sort receiued for the 5 CantoÌ When these cantons made war vpon Glarona to haue the possession of a country most commodious for the coÌmon good all the people so hated the Gouernors appointed by the House of Austria and so desired freedome as they yeelded vp themselues to the Cantons and so Glarona the foresaid yeere became the sixth Canton Likewise when the Canton Zurech made warre vpon Zug a Towne possessed by gentlemen subiect to the House of Austria whence they were much annoied the Citizens being forsaken by the Gentlemen yeelded themselues and being receiued into the league became the seuenth Canton ãâã a free city of the Empire and vnder the power of the Gouernours hauing found the faithfull loue of the Cantons in the said confusion of the Empire did in the yeer 1352 make a perpetuall league with the three first named Cantons wherein notwithstanding Zurech and Lucerna are contained the three Cantons being bound to those two for the succour of Bern and being bound to Bern for the succour of the two Cantons and so Bern became the eight Canton The Towne Friburg subiect to the House of Austria being many waies oppressed in the said confusion of the Empire made league with Bern and when the House of Austria vpon pretence to visit them did for that cause spoile them of their goods they in the yeere 1481 after the end of the Burgundian warre became the ninth Canton Solothara a free City of the Empire had made a perpetuall league with Berne in the yeere 1351 and after in the yeere 1481 was receiued for the tenth Canton Bizila free City of the Empire had in the yeare 1327 made a perpetuall league with the 3 first Cantons after prouoked by many iniuries of the house of Austria did in the yeare 1501 make a perpetuall league with all the Cantons and so was receiued for the Eleuenth Canton ãâã an Imperiall city first sold or ingaged to the house of Austria and againe vnited to the Empire when the Duke of Austria was proscribed in the Councel of Costnetz because the Emperor Frederick the third in the yeare 1454 exacted an oath of the citizens as Duke of Austria not as Emperor they first made a league for certaine yeares with six Cantons and after at the end of the Suenian warr made a perpetuall league in the yeare 1501 with all the Cantons and so becam the twelfth Canton Abbatiscella vulgarly called Apinzill containing eight Villages after it had obtained freedome from the Abbot of Saint Gallus by Armes and mony had warr with the house of Austria about the yeare 1408 at which time it made a league with the Cantons and after prouoked by the iniuries of the said Abbot in the yeare 1452 it made a perpetuall league with the seauen first Cantons and at last in the yeare 1513 became the thirteenth Canton Among the fellowes in league first the Abbot of Saint Gallus in the yeare 1451 obtained to be made a cityzen of the foure Cantons zurech Lucerna Suitia and Glarona which right all the Abbots renewe and promise that all their possessions shall lie open to the said Cantons and that in controuersies they will rest in the iudgement of the cantons and by another agreement each of these Cantons appoint a captain to be Assessor to the Abbot in iudgment and the cantons haue halfe of all mulcts or fines imposed and the subiects of the Abbot are bound to serue them in warr And howsoeuer some of the cantons at this day are of the reformed religioÌ yet they send a captaine according to the couenant and defend all the rights of the Monastery In the second place is the towne of Saint Gallus which hauing bought freedome from all rights of the Abbot and of the Empire made a perpectuall league with six Cantons Zurech Bern Lucerna Suitia
of Spaine Histories witnesse that some of these Prouinces did owe homage to the Empire and the rest to the King of France till they fell into the hands of the powerfull Dukes of Borgundy who by diuers transactions tooke all rights from the Kings of France and because the Empire hath been euer since in the House of Austria it cannot seeme strange the Kings of Spaine being of the same House that these Prouinces haue been freed of the homage due to the Empire The Emperour Charles the fifth happily gouerned these Prouinces with great iudgement handling the people gently who had alwaies been held vnder a gentle yoke by their Princes inioying great priuiledges inuiolably kept to them neuer vsed to absolute gouernement but hauing often taken Armes when their Princes imposed exactions vpon them or broke any of their priuiledges and so bringing their Princes to iust and equall termes But his son Phillip K. of Spaine and many other Kingdomes straying from his Fathers example in the gouernement of Netherland and obstinately despising his counsell which at his death as it were by his last Testament he gaue him to handle this people gently and not induring their voluntarie and free subiection hath caused the greater or at least the richer part of these Prouinces to fall from him and his heires For vpon the first dissention about Religion Pope Pius the fourth induced Phillip King of Spaine to publish a Decree in Netherland for the establishing of the infamous Inquisition first inuented in Spaine of late to punish the Iewes and Saracens who being Christians yet retained their owne rites and also for the execution of the Decrees made in the Councell of Trent which done more then 400 Gentlemen made petition to the King to abolish this decree and ioyning the intercession of the Emperor sent this petition to the King by the hands of diuers Lords and Gentlemen whereof the Prince of Egmond was one who had done the King very great seruice in the battell of Saint Quintens These petitioners were despised by the Spaniards and called Geuses that is beggers or poore slaues and the King sent them backe vnregarded and sent the Duke of Alua to go uern Netherland who cruelly raged against the Professors of the reformed religion beheaded the Prince of Egmond and the Earle of Horn both Knights of the golden fleece and on all sides proceeded butcherly In the meane time the Prince of Orange who formerly had in vaine perswaded the Prince of Egmond to fly foreseing this tiranny with other banished Geutlemen was gone out of Netherland and fled to the Prince of Condy in France At last the Duke of Alua hauing brought all in subiection reformed the policy and imposed an exaction of the tenth penny was recalled into Spaine whither he retourned with much treasure he had extorted and Don Iuvan of Austria succeeded in that Gouernment in whose time the fatal Ciuill warre began in Flaunders and shortly after mutinous troopes called Male contents ioined together neither acknowledging the King nor the States of the Prouinces and while Don Iunan pursued them he died in the Camp in the yeere 1578. Then Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma was made Gouernor of Netherland and the King persisting in his purpose to bring that people to absolute subiection and the Professors of the reformed religion being grieuously persecuted and all the people being murinously affected for the newe and tirannicall exaction of the tenth penny without consent of the generall States the troubles still continuing in Flaunders at last some few Prouinces hauing the Prince of Orange for their Generall in the warre strictly combined themselues in league for mutual defence So Flaunders and the firme land was left vnder the Spanish yoke but the confederate Prouinces firmly resoluing to cast off all subiection to the King of Spaine instituted a new forme of common wealth For the Prince of Orange wisely and variantly procuring the publike good was in the yeere 1584 traiterously slaine with a baller by a desperate Roague whereupon the cities of Flaunders lay open to the Duke of Parma But the foresaid vnited Prouinces cast themselues into the protection of the Queene of England and if my memory faile not they are thus named Holland Zealand Vtreiht Groning west Friesland besides many townes for Gelderland some fortes and strong cities of Brabant and Ostend in Flaunders a towne for neerenes fit to annoy the Enemy And the foresaid fortes and strong cities for the most part lying vpon the coast of the sea within land vpon the mouth of the Rheine where it fals into the sea gaue free traffick by sea to the vnited Prouinces forbad the same to the cities within land and besides yeelded this commodity that as the Spanish soldiers from their forts send frey booters to spoile the vnited countries of Gelderland Groning Friesland so the soldiers of the states might froÌthence make incursioÌs vpoÌ the countries subiect to the King of Spaine wherby the country people were forced to pay large yeerly coÌtributions to be free from this spoile The few inhabitants of these small Prouinces whome men will iudge but a breakefast to the Spanish Army notwithstanding haue not only bene able to this day to keepe out these powerfull forces from entring their territories but may iustly brag that they haue wonne many strong forts and townes from the Spaniard and carried their Army into Flaunders where in a field fought at Newport they obtained a glorious victory against the Spaniardes And so much in small progresse of time haue their iust and moderate Counsells increased their common-wealth gouerned with great equity and equality as at last forsaken as it were by the King of France for the time hauing little helpe from England they alone did not onely long defend themselues from the powerfull reuenge of the Spaniard but stoutly bearing out the warr to a wished peace are now no more to be pittied but in common iudgment rather to be enuied and feared by their neighbours Mention hath bene made of the Prince of Orange and hereafter mention is to be made of his sonne Count Maurice therefore it will not be amisse to say somthing of this noble family The vnited Prouinces consisting of citizens and the common people there being few Gentlemen in Friesland and few or none in Holland and Zeland and such kind of Plebean men vnfit to leade Armies they aswell for the common-wealths sake first tooke the Prince of Orange for their head as after for thankfulnes to him much esteemed the Family of Nassaw and besides others of that Family gouerning in Friesland and other parts made choise of the said Princes sonne Count Maurice to be General of their Army but with limited power from the States and he hath a double as I thinke voice in their publike meetings in which notwithstanding hee seldome or neuer vsed to be present His father the Prince of Orange had all his
all the neighbour Prouinces were thereby impouerished all which trade by the warre fell to Holland most strong in shipping or for that the vnited Prouinces haue such commodity by the Sea and waters running to all Townes and by the strength of their cities as in the heat of war they are free from the enemies incursions or any impediment of their traffick and seeme rather to carry the war to their confines then to haue it in their bosomes In which point it is not vnpleasant to remember how the Hollanders mock the Spaniards as if not acquainted with the Northern Sea the ebbing and flowing therof they thought they might at pleasure come into any hauen leade their army into any of those Prouinces that when the Spaniards first entered Holland with their Army and they cutting the banckes of the sea drowned their Country the Spaniards were therewith astonished and gaue gold chaines money and the most precious things they had to the Country people on condition they would bring them out of those watery places to firme land If any man require truer and greater reasons of these Prouinces growing rich by warre let him make curious search thereof for it is besides my purpose No doubt the frequent Armes of the sea within land passing by their Cities the innumerable waters though for the most part standing or little mouing which by made ditches carry boats and barkes to all their Cities being there more frequent then in any other part of the World and to all their Villages and compasse almost all their pastures yeeld no small commodity to their Common-wealth For they hauing little of their owne to export and wanting Corne Wood or Coales and many necessaries for their vse yet by this onely benefit and their singular industry not only most abundantly inioy all commodities of all Nations for their owne vse but by transporting them from place to place with their owne ships whereof they haue an vnspeakable number make very great gaine being delighted in Nauigation by nature as borne and bred in the midst of Seas and waters and hauing by warre heating their Flegmaticke humours attained to such skill therein as for trafficke they saile to the most remote coasts of the world and in processe of time being growne so bold sea-men as they will scarcely yeeld in this Art to the English for many former yeeres excelling therein So as their tributes imposed on Merchants commodities must needs be of exceeding great moment And not to weary my selfe with the curious search thereof I will onely adde for coniecture of the generall one particular related to me by credible men That in time when Italy suffered dearth and was supplied with corne from these parts the tributes of one Citie Amsterdam in one weeke exceeded the summe of ten thousand pounds sterling whence the reuenewes of all tributes in all the Hauens and Cities may bee coniectured to be excessiuely great So as adding the impositions vpon domesticall things and the great contributions paid by the enemies subiects vpon the confines in time of warre to purchase the safety of their persons and goods with freedome to till their grounds from the rapine of freybooting souldiers a man may well say that the vnited Prouinces are no lesse able then they haue been daring to doe great things This Common-wealth is gouerned by particular lawes and customes of diuers places and by the publike edicts vpon diuers new occasions made by the States of the Prouinces and these wanting by the Ciuill law The particular Cities are gouerned after the manner aboue named And particularly at Leyden my selfe haue obserued the inhabitants of Villages called by writings set vpon posts in the publike streets to haue their controuersies iudged by the Magistrates of the city not at any set time of the yeere but according to the occasions of other affaires at the Iudges pleasure High iniuries and maimes of any member are punished by the law which passeth ouer lighter iniuries not giuing such ample satisfactions to the wronged euen by word as the constitutions of the Sweitzers giue so as with them no lesse then in England quarrels and brawlings are frequent and often breake out into man-slaughters wherein those who will reuenge themselues by force first agree betweene themselues whether they will strike or stab and then drawing out long kniues which they ordinarily weare they wound one another by course according to their agreement either by slashes or stabs which they call schneiden and stecken They commonly allow mony to be put out to vse and to the end poore men vpon pawnes may borrow small summes for a short time they admit an Italian or Lumbard vulgarly so called in each Citie who taking a pawne lends a gulden for a brasse coine called a doigt by the weeke But this Lumbard in the French Church there is not admitted to receiue the Communion The pawne vseth to bee worth a third part more then the mony lent and one yere a day being past after the mony is due the vsurer hath the pawne to himselfe but before that time the debter at his pleasure may at any time haue his pawne first paying the borowed mony with the vse to the day of paiment And the common report then was that the States would take this as a publike Office into their owne hands to help the poore not able to pay by selling the pawnes to the owners best profit Touching inheritance Vpon the Mothers death the children may compell their Father to deuide his goods with them least perhaps hee should consume or waste the same And the wife that brought a dowry be her husband growne neuer so rich by his trade may when shee dies giue not only her dowry but halfe her husbands goods gotten in mariage to her owne Kinsmen after his death if shee haue no children by him and if she brought no dowry yet shee hath the same right to dispose of halfe her husbands goods gotten in mariage and as is supposed by their mutuall labor A sonne may not be disinherited but vpon causes approued by the Law for the Father is bound to giue a third part of his estate among his children and only hath power to dispose of the rest or any part thereof in Legacies at his pleasure The wiues of Holland buy and sell all things at home and vse to saile to Hamburg and into England for exercise of traffique I heard from credible men that the Citizens of Enchusen within thirty yeeres then past vsed to marry a wife and put her away at the yeeres end if they liked her not which barbarous custome Ciuility and Religion hath since abolished and at Delph I did see two examples of men who hauing buried their wiues did after marry their wiues Sisters It is no rare thing for blowes to happen betweene man and wife and I credibly heard that they haue slight punishments for that fault and my selfe did heare the Crier summon a man
vessels of gold and siluer are set forth at the feasts and when the drinking is at hottest the statua of a horseman by worke of great Art comes out of the Rocke and presents each stranger with a huge boule of wine which he must drinke off for his welcome without expecting that any should pledg him In the next chamber belonging to this stoue is a bedstead of marble and both haue hangings of gold lether There is another chamber and another stoue like these and aboue them in the vppermost loft there be many little roomes whereof one is furnished with speares another with saddles among them I remember one which in the pummell borea gilded head with eyes continually mouing in the hinder part had a clocke the rest are furnished with swords shields helmets and fethers Among the swords euery Prince hath his owne which the successours vse not to weare and there is one belonging to the Electorship when he exerciseth his office as Marshal of the Empire There was another Sword hauing in the hilt two little Pistols Here I saw laid vp an Iron chaine in which they said that Duke Henry the Father of Manrice the first Elector of this Family should haue beene hanged in the Low Countries who escaping brought the same with him and laid it vp here for memory After the Funerall of Christianus returning from Friburg to this Towne I found onely fifteene of those choice Horses in the stable all the rest hauing beene giuen to Princes comming to the Funerall The Dukes Pallace in Dresà en was built by Mauricius part of the City wals and the gates were built by Augustus who did also lay the foundation of this Stable But Christianus the Elector perfected the wals of the City with the close gallery ouer them and built this famous stable setting this inscription vpon the wals in Latine Christianus Duke of Saxony Heire to Augustus the Elector of happy memory and imitator of his vertues caused this Stable to be built and the Yard adioyning to be fitted for Tilting and military exercises the present age c. The Armory at Dresden is no lesse worth the noting wherein were Armes and all kind of munition for seuenty thousand men but of late it had been somewhat emptied by an expedition into France vndertaken by the Duke at the solicitation of the Count of Turin Ambassadour for Henry the fourth King of France The Duke was at great charge in keeping Garison Souldiers at Dresden and Officers as well for the stable as the Armory In these parts and no where else in Germany they vse boats of a hollow tree driuen not by Oares but by battledores whereof I saw many vpon the Elue as likewise water mils swimming vpon boates and remoued from place to place the like whereof was since made at London by a Dutchman but became vnprofitable by the ebbing and flowing of Thames At Dresden I paid seuen grosh a meale Hence in our Coach hired as aforesaid we passed foure miles to Friburg through fruitful Hils and Mountaines of corne but few or no Woods and here we paid each man fixe grosh a meale This City is of a round forme compassed of all sides with Mountaines hauing many Vauts or Caues vnder it by which the Citizens enter and goe out of the City by night to worke in the siluer Mines Yet hath the City two walles and two ditches but altogether dry It hath fiue gates and foure Churches among which Saint Peter's Church is the fairest The Elector hath his Castle in the City and in the Church as I remember of Saint Peter wherein the Dukes vse to be buried Mauricius hath a very faire monument of blacke Marble raised in three piles whereof each is decked with diuets statuaes of white Marble and Alablaster whereof two Belong to Mauricius the one in posture of praying the other armed and receining a deadly wound Two Monuments were begun but not then perfected for Augustus and Christianus The territory of Friburg abounds with siluer Mines wherof some and fine hundred fadomes deepe some seuen hundred and some nine hundred and after each thirty fadomes the earth is supported with great beames of timber lest it should fall and from each of these buildings winding staires of wood are made to descend to the bottome The Citizens liue of these Mines and grow rich thereby whereof the Elector hath his proper part and vseth to buy the parts of the Citizens The worke-men vse burning Lampes vnder the earth both day and night and vse to worke as well by night as by day and they report that comming neere the purest veins of siluer they are often troubled with euill spirits These worke-men goe out to the Mines by night through the Caues vnder the City and being called backe from worke by the sound of a bell they come in the same way The water which the worke-men vse springeth in a mountain an arrow shot from the Town whence falling to a lower mountaine it is conuaied by hollow trees to fall vpon the wheeles of the mils so as a little quantity thereof driueth them These Mils draw the water vp out of the Mines for the depth of forty fadome whence it runneth in pipes towards the City Whe they try purify the siluer first with water they wash away the red earth then they beat the mettall with a hand hammer and thus broken they cast it into the fire which they make in the open ayre lest the workmen should be stifled with the fume of the brimstone Then they melt the mettall six times by a fire made of whole trees in a little house adioyning Then in another house they seuer the mettall from the earth with a siue Then againe they beat the mettall with an hammer driuen by a Mill and thus beaten they wash it vpon three clothes hanging slopewise and the purest siluer stickes to the vppermost cloth This done they melt it againe six times and the best of the drosse is lead and siluer the rest copper and this siluer and lead being againe melted the lead falles from the siluer like dust The fier wherein they try this siluer is so hot as it consumeth the bricke Furnaces in three daies The workemen besides their hier vse to bee rewarded for expedition of the worke The meanes by which they find siluer are very strange being by a rod which vulgarly they call Chassel-wand or the Diuine Rod which they carry in their hands and when they goe ouer siluer they say the Rod bends or breakes if it be straightly held and there were not aboue seuen men in this Citie which had skill of this mystery The waies are planted with trees to direct passengers lest as they goe to the Citie they should fall into the Mines for as they report it hath often happened that the Citizens themselues haue perished in this sort and the like mischance happened lately to fiue workemen though skilfull in the waies These Mines of Friburg were