halfe the following that wee might take a more full view of this famous City of Bolonia the second in the Stato della Chiesa It is situated at the foot of the Appenins the neighbouring Countrey producing so great abundance of things necessarie to humane life that it hath got the name Bolonia the Fat For strength it is not much considerable there being but a single wall without Bulwarks Ramparts or the like T is a fiter habitation for the Muses then for Mars the fame of that University which flourisheth there making this Motto common BOLONIA DOCET Amongst the things I tooke notice of at Bolonia the first is the generall uniformity in the buildings there running before all the houses a very stately Cloyster with Arches all of the same structure so that a large street appeares one building which manner though it differ from the ordinary Italian way yet is no lesse admirable Amongst other faire edefices of this City the Popes Pallace very spacious is chiefe over the Gate is the statue of a Pope in mettall Before this Pallace is the Piazza as remakable as most in Italy In the midst stands a very sumptuous Fountaine where the Brasen Neptune made by John of Bolonia a famous Sculpturer is very considerable at one end of this Place is the Dome not yet finisht The great Schooles are said to be as stately as most in Europe And likewise the Hospitalls are worth seeing The Convents at Bolonia are generally very glorious especially S. Dominick and out of the Town S. Michael in Bosco In briefe the Bolonians agree with the other Italians in having their houses built decently and in their Courts still have some Verts set as Orange trees Cypresses or the like which much pleaseth the eye of a stranger as he passeth the streets In the heart of the City stands the Tower of the Asinelli cald so from a Family that rai'sd it some making Bolonia to represent the forme of a ship set this for the maine Mast It is growne somewhat to decay through time and the staires are very rotten however wee adventurd to goe up to the top and from thence wee had a full view of the Towne below with the streets lying in a straight line as likewise a faire Prospect on the plaines of Lombardy On one side of this Tower is another cald Garisenda which seemes to fall much after the manner of the Campanile at Pisa some impute it to the Architecture others say it was of the same height with that of the Asinelli but the Citizens fearing it would fall pull'd downe the upper part and left the rest standing crooked as at the present it doth This is the summe of what I saw in Bolonia yet berore I went from thence I tooke a taste of those famous Saltsages that are compos'd at Bolonia the which are transported thence not onely into other places of Italy but also into diverse parts of Europe as a rare and costly dish which addes and maintaines her Epithite Bolonia La Grassa Leaving Bolonia for our more free entrance into the State of Venice wee tooke a Bill of Health The first day we past the Canall that goes to Ferrara having our boate drawne by a Horse in which way we went through about nine Sustegne Machines not much unlike our Sluses to keep up and let down the water for the turning of all sorts of Milles and the passage of Boates Towards Evening wee past by Bentivoglio a Castle that gave denomination to the learned Cardinall of that name Some two houres later wee came to Mal Albergo an infamous Inne both in name and in deed where having poorely supt wee imbarqu't in another lesse Boate and having past all night through the fennes The next morning we arriv'd at Ferrara Ferrara heretofore a Dutchy by it selfe yet now subject to the Apostolique See is more considerable for strength then beauty however it is in Italy and therefore secundum nos no meane City It s scituation is on a plat so that by it runnes two Channels the one towards Bolonia the other towards the Po it is fortified with very faire Ramparts upon most of which are planted Allies of trees Within the Towne are some faire buildings as the Palazzo del Diamante belonging to the Duke of Modena the Castle where in the Court are pictur'd the Dukes of Ferrara and t is said that at the last there was no Roome left for another Before the Pallace are two small Statues of a Marquis and Duke of Ferrara many other things are observable as the Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariostus and of many other famous men buried there which my short stay would not admit me to collect Our Inne was the Angelo a too sumptuous edifice to have been made a Taverne where having dind wee went by boat downe the Channell and about three mile beyond Ferrara came into the Po which is the greatest and farthest navigable river in Italy for breadth and length much above Tyber it selfe the ancients cald it Padus the Poets Erydanus on the Bankes whereof they feignd that Io transformd into a heifer was want to feed About evening wee came on the confines of the Venetian territoire and supt at Corbua a place three miles distant from that most ancient yet now dejected City Adria which formerly gave the name of Mare Adriaticum to the Sea now cald the Golfe of Venice Three miles farther wee changd our Barke for a bigger Vessell to carrie us to Venice and having now past thirty miles on the Po we came suddenly by an artificiall cut into the River Adice Athesis in Latin that passeth by Verona and the next morning about the opening of the day wee enterd into the Golfe passing by Chioza a City in an Island on the left Palestina on the right with other Islands that lay rang'd in a row to Venice it selfe where wee arriv'd the twelfth of September and being come to the Port wee as the custome and order is were not permitted to set foot on shoare on paine of death till wee had a ticket of licence Venetia is a word never heard of in the Romans dayes the originall of this name being not above thirteen Centuries of yeares since yet Historians generally report that at the decay of the Roman Empire when the invasion of the Hunns and other Barbarous Nations overspread Italy Some provident Fishermen began to build Cottages in those scatterd Islands and in processe of time others for their better security retyr'd thither From this poore and low beginning imitating her elder sister is shee growne to that height that all deservedly call her Venice the rich This very mirrour of State and Policy as shee was borne about the death of old Rome so shee seemes ro bee hereditarily Possessour of that which maintaind Rome in her soveraigne glory The magnificent Genius of the People the Gravity of the Senate the solidity of her lawes very much consonant with those of Rome
his guard No lesse strange though true is the report of the Tarantula which some say is a Flye but at the opening of a doore in the Vatican their skipt out a creature not much unlike an Eft onely with longer clawes at which some Italians then in our company cryd out Vna Tarantula Tarantula The venome of the Tarantula is of such operation as hee that is stung while the fit continues falls a caparing and nothing can allay it but Musick I saw a Capuchian at Siena who was perfectly well in his sences all the yeare till precisely the day came about whereon hee received a Bite of a Tarantula then on a suddaine hee would skip like a Madman Were these occurrences as Pleasing to my Reader as to my selfe I should build gates for my Cities to run out of This roughly hewed Portaile resembles the Alpes which past behold Rome the Holy Page 67 Venice the Rich. pag. 187 Naples the Gentle p. 138 Florence the faire p 28 Genua the Superbe p. 10 Milan the Great p. 238 Bolonia the Fat p. 168 Padua the Learned p. 205 Verona the Ancient p. 226 AN ITENIRARY CONTAINING A breife Narration of a Voyage made through Italy in the yeare 1646. and 1647. THere are but two ordinary passages out of France into Italy the one over the Alpes the other by the Mediterranean Sea those commonly which goe by the first returne by the second and so contrary We November being quite expired ere we left France for our owne convenience preferred a boate before a horse I meane the Sea voyage before the Land Wherefore being come to Antibe the utmost City of France wee found favour of the Governour it being a Frontiere and place of strength in giving us a Bill of health without which it is very difficult to enter into any of the Italian States or Cities having over night procured a Filoaco to carry us all our way to Genua if so be wee mett with no Boate of returne betwixt thence and Monaco the next morning we departed and about nine in the forenoone came before Nice in Savoy situated on the Sea side but hath no Port the buildings are after the Italian it is commanded by a strong Castle that stands on a hill Finding no convenience of imbarquing better here we sayled on but at the point of Land that turnes towards Morgues there arose a contrary winde which forc't us to retyre into the next harbour to wit Villa Franca aunciently called Portus Herculis where by permissiō of the Governour of the Citadell we lay that night This place likewise belongs to the Duke of Savoy The next day going out of the Haven we met with a Genova Filouco having agreed for our passage in that quitted our former yet no sooner were we in the boat but a Tempest drove us againe into the harbour so that we lost that day entirely The day following we had both faire weather a calme Sea which encourag'd our watermen to adventure out about 2. miles from Villa Franca we dis a great vessell making towards us which our Boatmen seemed to feare taking it for a Turkish man of War but we were afterwards informed to the cōtrary A little further we strooke into the Port of Monaco and after an houre or two stay there the wind growing contrary our Boatmen wisht us to tarry longer least wee should be exposed to a greater inconvenience which wee the more willingly condiscended too in regard t is so remarkable a place as no stranger can well passe without especiall observation thereof for I must confesse I know no so small a principality of the like consideration either for strength or riches The Prince of the family of the Grimaldi of Genua is in his state soveraine and coynes mony but hath still some greater King for his Protector of late yeares hee left the Spanish party and gave himselfe with this his cheife Towne to the King of France's tuition so that at our arrive there there was a strict garison of French the Marquis of Corbon being then Governour to whom wee had addresse from his Brother in Law at Antibe us'd us very civilly and sent a souldier with us to shew us all the rarityes that are there to be seene Monaco whether I may properly call it a Town or Castle I know not is situated on the top of a rockey Promontory of incredible hard accesse inviron'd with strong walls within which are some streets very neately representing the face of a City in the middest is a spacious court fit for to exercise military discipline in at the end is the Princes Palace which though Beautifull on the outside yet contains greater wealth within cheifly in his Gardrobe where the variety of Tapistries the great quantity of plate with the vastnesse of vessels as Fountaines Tables and such like of pure silver striks amazement into him that sees it besides this rich furniture there are two Cabinets or Galeries of rare curiosities which excepting the Duke of Florences may be equaled with most of that nature in Italy amongst other singularities I was much taken with the statue of an Indian of Porphyre and other materiall as likewise a gemmery compil'd of severall pretious stones with these letters Otium Francisci Bembi The Prince was then in enlarging this Palace and beautifying it with Marbles and waterworks Having with great satisfaction seene all the particularities of this place we returned downe to our Inne and it growing towards night some few howers before our departure a hard accident befell us which was the losse of our Bill of health wherefore though it was darke and the watch was set yet wee sent up a letter by a string to the Governour who very courteously returned us a Ticket of larger extent then our former At midnight wee departed from Monaco past eight miles farther by Menton a village belonging to the same Prince and about breake of day we came before Vintimiglia the first city towards France of the Republique of Genua from hence we were in view of the mountaines of Corsica and foure miles farther we past by Saint Remes where the shore which is called by the name of the rive of Genua is all covered with Orange Citron and Date Trees Past the rest of that day without seeing any thing remarkable unlesse Porto Mauritio where heretofore there was a very good Port which the Genuesians ruin'd fearing it should bring prejudice to their owne Towards night we strooke in at Oneille a city which seemes to interrupt the Genois dominions and belongs to the Duke of Savoy After we had supt wee tooke boate and sayled all night by many Townes viz. Diano Araisse where they fish for Corall Albengue Luan a city of the Prince of Oria a Genois Final a place of strength and the only garrison the King of Spaine hath in these coasts the Port though small yet serves much in the conveyance of men and amunition towards Milan This
to a horse there buried which had done him good service in the siege of the City The Epitaph runs thus Non ingratus Herus sonipes Memorande sepulchrum Hoc tibi pro meritis haec monumenta dedit Least I should dwell too long amongst these earthly delights wherewith Florence is fil'd I will goe and meditate in the Churches and first in the Dome which I conceive either for the exquisitenesse of the worke or worth of so vast a Bulke of Red Black and white Marble to be the fairest Cathedrall without that ever man laid eyes on It s better part is the Cupola so high that the brasse Globe at the top is capable of holding sixteen persons No lesse wonderfull is the Steeple which without exempt will yield to no other in the world composed of the same stone and materialls with the Church but with more art and ornaments Before the Dome is the Temple of Mars built in an Octogon now cald S. John or the Baptistary The foure gates of Brasse vvhich Ortelius prefers before any else in the world the broken Pillars of Porphyre the pavement the old Grecian Pieces at the top are things to be noted From hence wee went to see that mirrour of Art and wonder of this present age Saint Laurents Chappell which is so glorious that whosoever enters will even imagine himselfe in some place above terrestriall 'T is wholly overlaid with fine Pollisht stones neither is any colour upon Earth but it is there in stones naturally all which I have been since told by diverse an argument of the great riches included in the Bowells of Italy are dugg up within the great Dukes dominions Round about this Chappell are all the scutions of the townes under the great Duke in their proper Colours of stone Above are Niches for the statues of the great Dukes Beside them their Urnes The intent of this whole sumptious Fabrick being that it should successively serve for the Sepulcher of the great Dukes Saint Laurents Church and Convent joyne to this where the Library fild with Bookes all in Manuscripts is not contemptible Not farre from hence is Santa Maria Novella in the Court are two Marble Pyramids that stand on brasse Turtoises Hard by is S. Maries Church belonging to the Jacobins where on the North wall is the Tombe of Picus Mirandola an eminent schollar with this Epitaph Joannes jacet hic Mirandola caetera morunt Et Tagus è Ganges forsan Antipodes In the same Church is Politianus his Tombe subscribed thus Politianus in hoc tumulo jacet Angelus unum Qui caput linguas res nova tres habuit From hence I went to the Anunciade and saw in the way the Fountaine of the Centaure The Anunciade is a place of great devotion to a Madonna drawne by the hand of Saint Luke In the Piazza before is the statue of the Duke Ferdinand the first on horseback in brasse made by the same hand with the former above mentioned so that there is little difference betwixt them Hard by are kept the Lions and other wilde beasts and a little farther the Menage or Stables of the great Duke stord with Barbary and other excellent horses and as I remember I never saw better horse then at Florence On the wall of the Cavalrizza is this Inscription Franciscus Medices Magnus Etruscor Dux 11. Quod Nobilissimorum Adolescentium qui equestri splendore se ornari cupiunt Imprimisque Joannis fratris commodo fiere◠hunc in Equo se exercendi Locum extrui jussit Rustico Picardino Equorum Magistro M DLXXXVI Next to these though much distance Santa Croce deserves seeing Before it is a faire spatious Court in which it being Carnavall time while wee were at Florence we saw the play at Calce with Cavalcades shewes and other assemblies of the Nobility Within the Church is the tombe of that famous Statuary Picturer and Architecture Michael Angelo made by his owne hand Over his Urne stand those three arts hee was so renowned for with their instruments broken bewailing the losse of their Patron underneath this Inscription Michaeli Angelo Bonerotio Evetusta Simoniorū familia Sculptori Pictori Architecto Fama Omnibus notissimo Leonardus Patruo amantiss de se optime meritro Translatis Roma ejus ossibus atque in hoc templo Major suorum Sepulchro conditis cohortante Serenissimo Med Magno Hetruriae Duce P. 6. An. Sal M DLXX. Vixit ann. LXXXVIII M. XI D. XV To conclude my description of Florence the houses are high built the streets pav'd with great stones even and long many Fountaines and other publick ornaments declaring the magnificence of the great Dukes For eight mile round about the City there seemes another Florence so full are the fields speckled with Country seats Neither are those delights to private men alone but there are likewise publike walkes witnesse that of Pines two mile long that of Cypresses leading to Poggio Imperiale and many more Two miles up into the Northerne Mountaines lies the old Fesuli often spoke of amongst the ancient Writers but now a poore Village not having so much as the remnants of Antiquity In fine there is no Province in Italy more furnish't with delightfull and well peopled Cities then that of the great Duke whose Ancestours having united the States of three Common-wealths together to wit Of Pisa Florence and Siena doth now entirely possesse all Toscany the nobler part of Italy The wife of this present Great Duke Ferdinand the second of that name comes from the Duke of Vrbin of the family of Rovori The Revenues of this Prince of Toscany exceeed yearly ten hundred thousand Crownes which will amount to a hundred thousand pound English his ordinary guard is of Cavalry and Infantry with Germans very well equipag'd The Florentins have commonly notable head pieces so that from hence spring notable Polititians and States-men Machevil was of them and 't is said that three Embassadours from severall Kings meeting accidentally on the way prov'd in the conclusion to be all Florentins So soone as we had fill'd our selves with the sight of those many singularities that are in and about Florence wee set forward for Siena Going out of Florence at the Porta Romana one leaves Poggio Imperiale a Villa of the great Dukes which I had omitted above At the entrance of the walkes of Cypres that leads to it are the statues of the Tybre and Arno those of the famous old and new Poets Virgil Ovid Petrarche and Dante The house swarmes with rarities chiefly with excellent Pictures amongst them all the line of Austria this great Dukes mother who built this house being sister to the Emperour After wee had past by that wee lay that night at a little Bourg call'd Santo Cassiano The next morning wee rode through a Village Barbarino from whence the mighty stirring family of the Cardinalls tooke their originall Wee din'd at Poggio Bonci a place noted for the perfumd Tobacco compos'd there which
ConLibert Concubin Piae Plautiae Aug L. Faustae Libert. That day wee dind at Mola where there is to bee seen Ciceros Grote in which he wrote many of his familiar Epistles In the afternoone eight miles from Mola we came unto Garigliano where the famous City Minturna stood as a very entire Aquiduct an Amphitheatre with many other ruines testifie Having past here the river Liris that terminated old Latium we came into the Medowes of Minturna where Marius hid himselfe in his flight from Sylla at the end of those fields runs along Mons Massicus so renown'd for the wines it produc't t is now cald Garo and from thence the river Liris Garigliano adjoyning are the ruines of Senuessa as Martiall Et Senuessanis venerunt Massica Praelis That night wee lay in Ager Falernus at a Village calld S. Agatha at the bottome of Sessa formerly Aurunca The Ager Falernus is all that space of ground which lies betwixt the Mons Massicus and the River Vulturnus so that because of their affinity Vinum Massicum and Falernum was us'd promiscuously by the Ancients The next morning we past by Torre di Francolesse where Hanniball being besieg'd by Fabius Maximus escapt through that famous stratageme of making his enemies drunke Two mile farther wee came in view of that happie Plaine of Campania now Terru di Lavoro which most Authors as well Moderne as old extoll for the most fruitfull plat of earth that is in the Universe In a word t was the Subject of Virgils Georgicks In which having rode five miles wee came to dinner at New Capua which though so cald in regard of the other yet hath some remnants of Antiquitie In the Cloister of a Church are some Ancient Tombes In the midst of the City at the entrance as I suppose of the Jesuites Colledge is this old Inscription Julio Auroxonti Leonidae V. C. Quaestori Praet. Curatori Capuensium Ob multa praeclara in cives patriamque Honori Licentiae suae merita Institutori Novorum ac Renovatori Operum Publicorum Ab origine Patrono omni laude dignissimo Regio Competi The old Capua the delight of Hanniball and Paragon with Rome and Carthage is two mile off out of the way on the left where the ruines of Columnes Theatres Temples Porches shew its former Magnificence From Capua to Naples the way is even spacious and like a garden t is indeed Campania The fertility of which is such that if the owner have not as much Wine out of one Vine as will load five Mules he thinkes his labour ill spent an incredible though true argument of the fruitfullnesse of this Countrey In the mid-way stands Anversa and eight miles farther Naples This Metropolis of that Kingdome which takes its denomination from thence is a Maritimate on the Mediterranean shoare T is ancient though Neapolis and was first cald Parthenope At this present t is reckond the third City in Italy and so great are the delights which nature hath allowed to this place that t is still frequented by men of high condition and great personages so that it hath taken the Epethite Naples the Gentle The streets of Naples are generally well pav'd of free-stone especially that of Toledo very large and even Which indeed is necessarie here in regard of the multitude of Coaches that passe to and fro The Houses are very uniforme built flat at the top to walke on a notable convenience in these hot parts Another like accommodation which this City hath against the heats is the Mole which is like an Artificiall street casting it selfe into the Sea hither all the Gentry at the evening retire to take the Fresco At the end of the Mole is the Fanal and underneath a fountaine with the statues of the old Dieties of Parthenope From thence one hath in view the mountanous Iland Capreas the delight of Tyberius Amongst the Palaces of Naplee the Vice Kings then Duca d' Arcos is the fairest There are three Castles S. Elmo above Castel nuovo Castello del Ovo below The Churches are generally the best I ever came into fild with Marbles chiefly the Carthusians the Jesuits the Bishops Chappell The onely Antiquity within the City is at the Theatins Church which was a Temple of Castor and Pollux the Frontispiece or Porch of ancient Pillars with a Greek Inscription over it which Language this City spake when it was cald Parthenope as likewise the remnants of their two Statues yet standing The Inscription is this {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} It beiug May while we staide at Naples We saw the famous Miracle of the bloud of Santo Gennaro carryed in procession Naples is extremely populous and consequently vitious he that desires to live a retired or indeed chaste life must not set up there as the gardens are fild with Oranges so the houses want not for Lemmon Jusque datum Sceleri saith the Poet There were at my being there thirty thousand Courtesans Registred that paid taxes for their pleasure The things within Naples are not to be omitted yet those about give farre more satisfaction and truly if a traveller Hyperbolise in any part of his voyage of Italy the most fit Theame he can take are the Wonders a little distant from Naples and first the Tractus Puteolanus scatens hominum ac naturae miraculis Parting for Pozzuoloes on the left a Suburb by the Sea side leads to the Margouline where in the Church cald Santa Maria Del Parto is the Sepulcher of Sincerus Sannazarius with many figures of Marble excellently cut and this Epitaph Actius Sincerus D. O. M. Da Sacro cineri Flores Hic ille Maroni Sincerus Musa Proximus ut tumulo Vix Ann. LXXI Obiit MD XXX A Countreyman of ours in honour to that worthy Poet hath left this paper of verses beside his Tombe Sonulus hendeca-Syllabicus Rithmicus Valum Nobile par brevi Camoena Longum mensus iter Fleam necesse Quorum fertur oves ita iste flesse Vt narint lachrimis uda Avena Seu pisces lepida sed ille vena Tam pisces cecinit probe atque presse Se tanquam placidos ut ipse adesse Cura praestiteriut oves arena Partum Virginis unus arte rara In sanctos rotulos modosque cultos Alter quem memorant Sybillae ad arâ— Annos Vaticinatus ante multos Quid mirum est igitur jacere clara Ambos Virginis Vrbe Consepultos Ad Aras P. Virgilii Maronis c. Act Sin Poetarum Princip Hugo Hollandus Nobilis Cambo Britannus Flevit Fixitque Autore vero egregio amico Alexandro Hebruno Nobili Anglo Britanno 1626. Mart. 5. Returning back a little wee came to the entrance of the famous Grotte over which on the left hand stands Virgils Tombe upon a high rock so that it is scarce to be seen by those that passe below The Guides commonly shewing a false wherefore some few dayes after we walkt up into it Over the Dore of
place commonly pillageth strangers they taking all for Frenchmen but praysed be God wee past quietly and towards breake of day came before Savona The most ancient and greatest city of the Genevoisat after Genua it selfe Behind this city the Apennines that cleave Italy in sunder begin to take their rise From hence to Genua is 35. Italian miles all which way one goes more and more into the pleasantnesse of Italy the whole board being fild with Country Seats and Villages which for beauty surpasse many cities I have seene elsewhere Amongst those San Pietro d' Arania whither the richer Genuesians retire themselves in the sommer and indeed may bee call'd another Genua for the gallantry of the buildings is the best but three miles distant from Genua the Metropolis of that most flourishing Republick which contains so stately Palaces that from all the rest of Italy it hath gotten the name of Genua the superbe T is situated at the foot of very high mountaines which though sterile yet want nothing that Art can enrich them with In gardens water-workes and the like That which exceeds all the rest is the Prince of Orias Palace reaching from the bottome of the shoare to the top of the mountaines divided into three gardens In the first whereof the Terrasses or Porches one above another bore up with marble Pillars is very magnificent as likewise the Fountaine of the Eagles and the Family of Neptune at the one side that famous Cage of ironworke which is of so vast an extent that it encloseth a wood of Cypresse and other trees The other two are fild with Grottes Orange trees and other variety of delights At the upper part of all stands the statue of Jupiter tonant Within the Pallace the Gardrobe full of rarietyes the Tapestries and precious Furuiture declare greatly the richnesse of that Prince Next to this is the house of Hieronimo del Negro where the excellent Pictures the fall of waters the Fountain the Piscina the Grove and other delightfull departments are well worth seeing On all sides of the City is an infinity of such places of pleasure especially round about the Port which is of a large circuit resembling much the forme of a Theatre enclos'd with faire buildings T is defended by a solid Bulwarke which they call Il Mole that lyes about 2 hundred paces into the Sea rais'd at a very great expence Opposite to that a rocky Promontory casts it selfe forth at the head whereof stands a very lofty Pharos bearing a lanterne of more then an ordinary bignesse to guide Ships in the night Within the Haven is a place where the Gallyes lay every one in a particular Classis As for the City it selfe it is enough to say the Genuesians live in a Kingly luxury and I believe it is the best built and compacted City not onely of Italy but also of Europe The houses generally are very high the streets for the most part its onely fault are somewhat narow so that no Coaches are here admitted which though an inconvenience yet preserves the wayes more cleane and neater I except here that spacious long even and indeed Mistris of streets the Strada Nova which I am confident may be justly preferd before any in Christendome so proud in Architecture so rich in Marbles are the Palaces t is fild with The fairest one belongs to the Duke of Oria. Amongst the publick Edifices the Exchange or Merchants Hall the Dukes Palace with the Armory for 30 thousand men deserv'd our walking to Neither are the Genuesians lesse splendid in adorning their Consecrated places witnesse the mighty quantity of polish't Marble wherewith all the Churches are fild especially San Lorenzo the Dome and Santo Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuites But that which surpasseth all and is of most admiration is the Chappell of the Anunciade begun to bee built not many yeares since at the expence of one Family whose Palace joynes to it yet is of so incredible richnesse for the red and white Marble Pillars and other ornaments that one would imagine the revenues of a whole City could not bee enough to raise so glorious a Worke as that will be when t is finisht Finally the Genuesians to defend this their brave City have encompast it with Walls no lesse commendable for beauty and strength then prodigious for their large extent The people of this Common-wealth are habited all alike somewhat tending towards the Spanish Mode and are of a very austere and superbe humour hardly vouchsafing to look so low as a stranger wherefore having with much satisfaction seene their Flourishing Estate wee left them We set out from Genua in a Filouca about Sun-setting and having sayld all that night about noone the next day we strooke into Porto Venere and after dinner crost the Golfe of Aspecia which is defended with many strong Fortifications to Lerizi This Bourg being the mid way from Genua to Ligourne such is the villany of the watermen in these parts if they get their passengers chiefly strangers hither they will so delay their departure pretending the inconveniences of the weather that by lying still at so great an expence they may bee forc'd to give them their pay and to hire horses for the rest of the way by Land Which trick wee were forc't to suffer patiently after a day and halfes attendance for our boat Hence we tooke Post and having past through the Olive woods over the hills that lay neerest the shoare wee came into a low plaine Countrey which continued so to Ligorne First we past the River Magre then went by Sarazana a good City and last of the dominion of Genua after that we came into the Principality of Massa wherin we past by Lavenza and Carrara where out of the hills they dig great store of Marble and then through Massa it selfe where the Prince resides in Estate Soveraigne The Towne is very pleasant standing in a Territorie fruitfull in Orange trees and other fruits Hence wee came suddenly into Tuscany but quickly left it falling into a woody Country belonging to the State of Lucas and so to Viregio under the same power standing at the mouth of a small river which runnes from Lucques Here we were forc't to lye and the next morning some two mile farther wee past the river that parts the Republique of Lucques from Toscany and so in the morning arriv'd at Pisa Which City was heretofore a great free state of it selfe but at the rising of the family of the Medicis on which line the Dukes of Etruria successively runne this with many other noble cities was reduced to the great Dukes subjection From whom it hath received many Embellisments T is situated in a Marshy land so that the unholesomnesse of the aire renders it scarce of the native people much more of strangers which seldome tarry any longer then to see the rarities of the place Amongst which I preferre that worthy peece of arte the Falling Tower which travellers boast of
bearing a stone which shew the measure of our Saviours height the table whereon the Souldiers cast Lots Two Pillars of the vaile of the Temple wrent The Pillar whereon the Cock crew c. Without S. John Lat: On the one side is a little Rotunda coverd with Lead wherein is the Font or Baptistarie of Constantin with the fairest Pillars of Porphyre in Rome On the other is the * Scala Santa containing 28. staires that stood in Pilats house at Hierusalem whereon our Saviour went and returnd whilst he was in his Agony sweating bloud The Scala Sancta Above is the Sancta Sanctorum and over it this verse Non est in toto sanctior Orbe locus 'T is credited that Helene sent them to Rome with many other things of the holy Land The Popes Pallace of Saint John Latran although not inhabited yet is no lesse majestick then the others wherein his S. keeps his Court Having seen all the things of note within and about Saint John Lat: we took in our way homeward * Saint Mary Maggior one of the seven Churches and for beauty the second in Rome The two emulous Chappells of Paulus quintus and Sixtus V. for the variety and preciousnesse of the stone imitating the famous San Lorenzo of Florence Before the great Dore of this Church is a high a Columne taken out of the Temple of Peace t was set up and dedicated to the Virgin whose statue is on the top by Paulus V wherefore it stands perpendicularly on foure brasse Coquatrises the armes of the Borghesi out of which family came Paulus quintus On the other side of Santa Maria Maggiore is a Pyramid not so large as the others translated thither from the Mausoleum of Augustus In the afternoone wee saw little onely tooke a slight view of the Campo Vaccino fild with Antiquities another day in the morning we went to the Vatican In the way is Pons Elius now Del Castello Santo Angelo so cald from the Castle of S. Angelo by it which was anciently * Moles Adriani 'T was built by Adrian the Emperour as a Sepulcher for him and his Successours and in regard it stands yet so firme and entire t is reductiuto the forme of a * Fortresse wherein are kept the three millions of Gold which money may bee employd on no use unlesse to defend the State Apostolique in point of armes From hence looking into the Tyber one may discerne some ruines of the a triumphant Bridge yet so little are the remnants thereof that t is hard to judge it to have been so glorious as it was however t is said the Jewes offerd his S. fiftteen thousand Crownes that they might turne the course of the Tybre for some Moneths and have all they could find about this Bridge In which I believe the Jewes would not have been loosers it being the custome of the ancient Romans when they past over the Tybre in triumph to fling in a part of their spoiles taken from their enemies yet his S. would not assent thereunto least the turning of the river might prove prejudiciall to the City From the Castello Santo Angelo is a Corridor that goes unto the Vatican the Popes winter Pallace to which joynes Saint Peters Before these two prime structures of new Rome is a wide Court in the midst whereof is an Esguile or * Pyramid bore upon foure Lions of Brasse which heretofore stood in Nero's Cirque and was Dedicated to Julius Caesar whose ashes were conserv'd at the top where now the Crosse triumpheth This Pyramid beareth no Hierogly fixes as the others but is more firme and to sight newer In the some Court is a Fountaine from whence flowes a streame of water and indeed throughout all Rome no street wants a publick Fountaine wherefore because they are so common I omit them * Saint Peters Church as Erasmus said of that at Canterbury Tanta sese Majestate in coelum erigit ut etiam procul in tuentibus Religionem incutiat In a word t is the most perfect modell of decent Magnificence in the world there being an answerable Uniformity both within and without The Frontis piece is glorious with the Colosses of Christ and the twelve Apostles the Porch it selfe is ample enough to bee a Temple Entring into the Church one admires the work of the top which is all of squares Levati as they call it after the same manner with the Pantheon In the Cupola is represented the Coelestiall Hierarchy in pieces of Mosaick so well that to all Beholders they seeme painted In the Center of the Church stands the great * Altar the most singular piece both for the materiall and art that ever humane hand produc't t is all of solid Brasse taken from the covering of the Rotunda and afterwards melted into so stupenduous Pillars each one whereof weighes five and twenty thousand pounds besides other diversity of Overages the whole so unpareld a worke that t is fit to stand in no Cathedrall unlesse S. Peters The Vatican Pallace is such a Sea of lodgings that t is said three Kings may at the same time have roome enough for themselves and followers In these large buildings are containd so many worthy Rarities as the whole world affords not the like witnesse first that most famous Library of Christendom The Vatican wherin severall stanzas or Centuries are most choise Bookes as well Manuscripts as Prints At the entranee into the Bibliotheque are the two ancient statues of Hippolitus and Aristides round about upon the walls are pictur'd the generall Counsells Amongst other rare Manuscripts which are to bee seen here as Virgils Terence and many Roman Authors written with their owne hands there are likewise though of later Date King Harry the eights Letters to Anne of Bulloyne some in French some in English those beginning commonly with My Darling or a lascivious expression together with his Booke against Luther which procurd him the Title of Defender of the Faith and at the end these two verses written with his own hand Anglorum Rex Henricus Leo Decime mittit Hoc opus Fidei testem amicitiae In the Opposite Stanza is the Palsgraves Library taken at Auspurg and sent afterwards as a present to his S. Here also is kept the true draught of Mahomets cheast On the wall are picturd the machins and inventions us'd in raising the Pyramid before Saint Peters with these verses Saxa agit Amphion Thebana ut Maenia condat Sixtus inmensae ponera Molis agit Many other singularities are there in this Library from whence passing through the Conclave we went downe into the armory which standing underneath doth as it were support the Library wherefore the Motto over the Dore is Vrbanus VIII Litteris arma Armis litteras The Sword must uphold the pen the pen the Sword There are armes and all accomplishments for five and thirty thousand Men Horse and foot Next to these passing through
Buildings then in their Garbe for by the art of Palladius the late Reviver of the Roman Architecture a Vicentin this city is beautified with stately Pallaces publick and private The Hall of Justice is admirable both for the Ancient and moderne structure the Tower lofty the Piazza most capacious of Turnaments and other assemblyes of the Gentry Who are much given to shewes and Pastimes and to this purpose they have erected a Theatre the figure whereof I conceive to bee like those of the ancienr Romans though the materialls differ Palladius was the Inventor as this Inscription over the stage testifieth Virtuti ac Genio Olympior Academia Theatrum hoc a Fundamentis erexit Paladio Archit Anno 1584. It will hold five thousand persons the Scene is very well contrived with Statues and Corinthian Order the Prospective represents a Kingly City Diverse like places of recreation there are within and about the City amongst which is the Campo Marzo made in imitation of that anciently at Rome for to exercise the youth in Chevalry thither the Ladies and Gallentry of the City resort in the sommer Evenings to take the Aire The Arch or entrance into this Field will stand as a perpetuall monument of Palladius that built it Just opposite is the Garden of Connt Valmarana wherein the close Walke of Citron and Orange trees together with the Labyrinthe are things very commendable Going forth at the gate di Monte one sees another Arch of Palladius with a most high paire of staires to the top of the Madonna Del Monte Halfe a mile farther by the river side which river was in Latin cald Meduacus Minor is the Rotonda of Conte Mario Capra so cald from the Cupola at the top or likenesse it hath with the Pantheon at Rome though in my opinion it more resembles the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons for it hath foure faces and foure Gates Palladius made this his Master-piece for t is so contriv'd that it containes Geometrically a Round a Crosse and a Square The Master of this house uses all strangers very civilly His Sellars are the best and the best furnished I met with neither is he sparing of his Wines to Travellers As wee were returning from this house to our Inne wee met with him and his followers attending him one of them who spake French sayd his Master desir'd to see us at his house to morrow but our short stay would not permit us to accept of that kind invitation I infer this passage to shew the generous Minds of the Vicentines The next morning wee left Vicenza very early dind at Osteria Nuova the midway And about foure in the afternoone wee came unto Verona T is the vulgar Criticisme on this Name that if it bee syllabizd it comprehends the first letters of the three head Cities of Italy Ve-Venetia Ro-Roma Na Others leave the verball dirivation and more strictly interpret it that whatsoever is containd in those three Cities may bee found in Verona Her wealth may be compar'd to that of Venice Her Monuments of Antiquity equall even those of Rome neither is the delightfull situation inferiour to that of Naples Thus much I must needs say were I to see Italy againe I should make my Station at Verona for I know no place more agreeable or commodious for a stranger The City stands one part on the side the other at the foot of a hill behind which is a continuation of huge Mountaines Before one side of the City lies a rich Plat Countrey Before the other a stony Champion or Downes wherein C. Marius gave a totall overthrow to the Cimbrians The River Athesis divideth the City in the midst Thus nature hath adornd Her neither hath art been wanting to glorifie her and this one may collect from the mighty remnants of Roman Magnificence that yet stand within her walls I may say with Martiall Vnum pro cunctis fama loquatur Opus Of the Amphitheatre at Verona the most perfect that is to be seen this day in Christendome the figure whereof I have here set downe As in the page following The Amphitheatre at Verona Arena This noble worke was spoild of all its ornaments by the Barbarous that sackt Italy yet one may easily judge how betwixt the Arches and the Columnes there were statues In the circuit of this Moles are three Porches one within another made for the Spectatours to goe in and out without disturbance to any one In the midst is the Arena where the Combatants fought in an ovale forme foure and thirty perches long large two and twenty environed with two and forty seats which lie gradatim one above another still extending to the top In these Cirques the vastnesse of Marble stones is incredible so bigge that one cannot conceive how they were transported thither This worke was perfected by L. V. Flaminius Cousul Anno Vrb Cond. 53. Many other signes of Venerable Antiquity are there in Verona as Arches-Triumphalls ruines of Temples Aquiducts Urnes and the like There 's one Arch Triumphall dedicated to Marius for his victory over the Cimbrians And although this City bee not now of so great a compasse as Historians report it was in the height of the Roman Empire yet the Venetians have with great expence joynd new Bulwarkes and walls unto the old and it is fencd with three Castles which make it as well impregnably strong as delightfull The buildings of this City are answerable to the Italian The fairest is the Councell house upon the roofe whereof stand expos'd to the open ayre the Statues of Cornelius Nepos Emilius Marcus old Poets Pliny the Naturall Historiographe Vetruvius the Architecture all which men graced their native Verona by their singular Vertues Besides these the Learned Scaliger was of Verona for whose sake and his Family i Signori della Scala there is in the heart of the city before the Inne wee lay at Il Cavaletto a stately Tombe of Marble encompast with Iron worke in the fashion of a Ladder which that name implies These things wee saw before it grew darke at Verona which wee left the next morning having renewed our bargaine with the same Coach that brought us thither to carry us to Milan At our going out of the Towne I saw a Porphire Tombe in a Church yarde t was told me that a King of the Goths lay buried there Looking into the River Athesis I espied a Bridge of old Roman work and some Engines which convey water out of the river in to the city by Pipes When wee parted from Verona and indeed through all the Venetian State our Matriculations wee had from Padua did us much service for by that meanes none of the Guard would dare to hinder us as they usually doe strangers Two miles beyond Verona wee past over the Downes memorable for the Battells of Marius About noone wee came to Cavalli Caschieri an Inne two miles short of Peschiera which is a most strong Fort of the Venetians standing at
stone was restor'd Tem Pauli Tertii Upon one of the sides is writ as may be suppos'd by the Restorer Quae fluit Vnda brevis Gallorum terminus olim Ausoniaeque fuit Parvulus hic Rubicon Advancing towards Ravenna you passe by Cervia where before the Cathedrall an ancient Sepulcher made like a Pyramid with two Infants ingrav'd thereon is to be noted nearer Revenna is La Pignada that notable Forrest of Pines which furnisheth all Italy with that sort of fruit Revenna a City very venerable for its Antiquity stands in a Plat very low three miles from the Sea side It hath one great inconvenience a scarcity of good water which Martiall knew when hee wrote this Epigramme Sit Cisterna mihi quam Vinea malo Ravennae Cum possum multo vendere pluris Aquam In the Porta Speciosa for the beauty of the Architecture cald Aurea this Title is to be read Ti Claudius Drusi F. Caesar Aug. Germanicus Pont. Max. TR. Pot. Cos. 2. Des. 3. Imp. P. P. dedit At Ravenna t is worth the paines to step into the Church of Saint Apollinary built by Theodorick King of the Gothes There are two rowes of most noble Columnes brought by the same King from Constantinople Before the Church of Saint Vidal there are some old Idols of the Pagans and in the Convent is the Sepulcher of Galla Placidia Hard by are the Ruines of Theodoricks Pallace In the Vessell of a Fountaine stands a Statue of Hercules Horarius the like not in Italy The Dome of Ravenna is very sumptuous The Tradition is that Saint Apollinary praying God would shew some miraculous signe to whom hee would commit the Bishoprick of Ravenna at a solemne Convention the Spirit came downe in the likenesse of a Dove upon one the Window whereat the Dove enterd they conserve with great Devotion In Saint Francis his Convent is buried the great Italian Poet Dante with this Epitaph made by himselfe Jura Monarchiae superos Phlegetonta lacusque Lustrando cecini volverunt fata quousque Sed quia Pars cessit melioribus Hospita castris Actoremque suum petiit felicior astris Hic claudor Danthes patriis exornis ab Oris Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater Amoris These are the most considerable rarities at Ravenna I will now make a speedy cut through those parts in Lombardy I left out Neere to Padua is Arquato where Petrarch liv'd and past to the other life they shew his house On a faire tombe is this his Epitaph Frigida Francisci LaÌ„pis hic teossa Petrarchae Suscipe Virgo Parens animam sate Virgine parce Fessaque jam terris coeli requiescat in arce These Cities in Lombardy as Mantua Modena Parma Turino the Capitalls of foure Dukedomes are seldome visited by strangers and indeed the splendour those Princes live at drownes the rarities of the Cities but I have been so superfluous in curiosities that I feare Delight should turne too tedious thererefore in brief Mantua stands in the midst of a Lake which renders the place inaccessable There are to come to the City two great Bridges the one named San Georgio the other Molini Gradaro is a very faire Church as likewise the Dome where there 's two excellent Pieces of the Councells held at Mantuo The Duke hath divers seats and Pallaces about the City As the Fontana where in a hall there are rangd about wild Boares Heads that Vincenzo Father of this present Duke Ferdinand killed with his owne hand The Favorita and the Thea and above all the Hall of Gyants where by strange and unusuall art how low soever one speaks at the corners t is intelligibly to be heard and those in the midst heare nothing The Dukes Pallace is of a most vast extent Virgils house is shew'd neere the City no memoriall but his Statue Man tua me genuit In the rest of the Cities of Lombardy there is little should draw a Traveller out of his way to bee seen but the Courts of their Princes till he comes to Turin the Duke of Savoys amongst the Alpes where he may shut this Booke 1648. The End of the Appendix Errata PAge 24. line 11. for one Read owne p. 42. l. 12. for è r. p. 44. l. 7. for distance r. distant p. 75. l. 5. for Antonius r. 〈◊〉 p. 86. 4. for some r. same p. 86. l. 4. for Printed r. painted p. 11. 7 l. 8. oâ—it s p. 206. l. 11. for Mar. r. Marmore p. 206. l. 9. for Constitution r. Institution Imprimatur NATHANIEL BRENT Junii 28. 1648. * Vesuuius †the Alpes * A weak Broath of Hearbs * Good words A Porter Monaco Genua Pisa Ligorne Florence Sum Osiris Rex Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe Rome * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 355. * Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 280. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 343 346. * Vid. Rom. Antic. p. 353. * Vid. Rom An. iâ— pag. 1â—9 a Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 173. b Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 171. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 350. Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 442. * Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 45 * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 486. a Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 491. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 215 * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 3. Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 190. * Vid. Rom. Antic pag. 349. * Vid. Rom Mod pag. 6. * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 10. * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 20. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 248. * Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 205. * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 402. Vid. Rom. Anâ—ic pag. 69 * Vid. Rom. Anâ—ic pag. 309. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 168. * Vid. Rom. Anâ—ic pag. 86. 88. a Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 326. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 202. a Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 207. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 225. a Act. 28. 30. b Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 428. c Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 165. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 239. * Vid. Rom Antic. pa. 228. Naples Bolonia Ferrara Venice Padua Vicenza Verona Brescia Milan Geneva Perugia Loreto Ravenna