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A05594 A most delectable and true discourse, of an admired and painefull peregrination from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affricke With the particular descriptions (more exactly set downe then hath beene heeretofore in English) of Italy Sycilia, Dalmatia, Ilyria, Epire, Peloponnesus, Macedonia, Thessalia, and the whole continent of Greece, Creta, Rhodes, the Iles Cyclades ... and the chiefest countries of Asia Minor. From thence, to Cyprus, Phænicia, Syria ... and the sacred citie Ierusalem, &c. Lithgow, William, 1582-1645? 1616 (1616) STC 15711; ESTC S108584 89,947 136

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But when they know how to make any gaine by strangers O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable villaines About two of the clocke in the after-noone wee arriued at Berah called of old Beersheba being eleuen miles distant from Ierusalem Hauing a little reposed we embraced our mountainous way as cheerefully as we could for we were excéeding faint and trauelled that day aboue three and forty miles whereby we might arriue at Ierusalem before the gates were shut sustaining drouth heate hunger and not a few other inconueniences At last we beheld the prospect of Ierusalem which was not onely a contentment to my wearied body but also being rauished with a kind of vnwonted reioycing the teares gushed from mine eies for too much ioy In this time the Armenians began to sing in their owne fashion Psalmes to praise the Lord and I also sung the 103 Psalme all the way till we arriued neere the walles of the Citie where wee ceased from our singing for feare of the Turkes The Sunne being passed to his nightly repose before our arriuall wee found the gates locked and the Keyes carryed vp to the Bashaw in the Castle which bred a common sorrow in the company being all both hungry and weary yet the Carauan entreated earnestly the Turkes within to giue vs ouer the walles some victuals for our money shewing heauily the necessity wee had thereof but they would not neither durst attempt such a thing In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs who remaineth there to receiue Trauellers of Christendome hauing got newes of our arriuing came and demanded of the Carauan if any Franks of Europe were in his society And he said onely one Then the Guardiano called mee and asked mee of what Nation I was and when I told him he seemed to bee exceeding glad yet sorrowfull for our misfortune He hauing knowing my distresse returned and sent two Friers to mee with bread wine and fishes which they let ouer the wall as they thought in a secret place but they were espied and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Bashaw a great fine otherwise he had béene beheaded for the Turkes alledged he had taken in munition from the Christians to betray the Citie This they do oft for a lesser fault then that was onely to get bribes and money from the Grey Friers Aprill the foureteenth day vpon Palme-sunday in the morning we entred into Ierusalem and at the gate wee were particularly searched to the effect wee carried in no furniture of Armes nor poulder with vs and the Armenians notwithstanding they are slaues to Turkes behoued to render their weapons to the Keepers such is the feare they haue of Christians The gates of the Citie are of yron outwardly and aboue each gate are brasen Ordinance planted for their owne defence Hauing taken my leaue of the Carauan and the company who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke I kept my way to the aforesaid Monastery and at the entry of the house the whole Friers met me receiuing me ioyfully and reioyced that a Christian had come from such a farre Countrey to visit Ierusalem I found here ten Franks newly come from Christendome and nine others which dwelt in Syria and Cyprus who were all glad of me shewing thesemlues so kind so carefull so louing and so honourable in all respects that they were as kinde Gentlemen as euer I met withall such is the loue of strangers when they méet in forraigne Countries they had also in high respect the aduentures of my trauell beyond Ierusalem troubling me all the while we were together to tell them newes and were alwaies in admiration that I had no fellow-pilgrime in my long peregrination A Description of Ierusalem and the memorable things he saw there and in Iudea of the Holy Graue Sodome and Gomorha Iordan the Desarts Grand Cayro Egypt the Riuer Nylus and of his returne to Christendome IERUSALEM is now called by the Turkes Kuddish which signifieth in their Language a Holy Citie It was first called Moriah of Moria one of the seuen heads of Sion where Abraham would haue sacrificed Isaac Genesis 22.2 and vpon his offring it was called Ierusalem Gen. 14.18 It was also named Salem where Sem and Melchisedech dwelt and Ierusalem was also callled Iebus 2. Sam. 24.16 And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple 2. Chron. 3.1 which afterward was termed Heiron Salomonis whence came by corruption that word Hierosolyma Dauid also in his Psalmes gaue it diuers names Ierusalem standeth in the same place where old Ierusalem stood but not so populous neither in each respect of bredth or length so spacious for on the South side of Ierusalem a great part of Mount Syon is left without which was anciently the heart of the old Citie and they haue taken on the North side now both Mount Caluarie and the holy Graue within the walles which were built by Sultan Selim So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great though a part thereof be remoued but a man may boldly affirme that the most part of this Citie is builded on that place where the first Ierusalem was As may truely appeare and is made manifest by these Mountaines mentioned in the Scriptures whereupon Ierusalem is both situate and inuironed about who reserue their names to this day and are still seene and knowne by the same as Mount Syon Mount Caluarie Mount Moriah and Mount Oliuet The forme of the situation of Ierusalem is now like to a Hart or Triangle the one point whereof looketh East extending downeward almost to the valley of Iehosaphat which diuideth Ierusalem and Mount Oliuet The second head of point bendeth out South-west vpon Syon bordering néere to the Ualley of Gehinnon The third corner lyeth on Mount Moriah toward the North and by-West hauing the prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato which adorne Ierusalem more then any thing within it the holy Graue excepted It is of circuite about thrée miles and a halfe of our measure As touching the former glory of this Citie I will not meddle withall nor yet describe sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same and concerning the lamentable destruction of it I referre that to the famous Historiographer Iosephus who largely discourseth of many hundred thousands famished and put to the sword within this multi-potent Citie by Vespasian and Titus his sonne being the messengers of Gods iust iudgements which by his computation amount beyond the number of eleuen hundred thousands This Citie hath béene oft conquered by enemies first by Nebuchodonosor the Assyrian King Secondly by the Greekes and Alexander the Great and also maruellously afflicted by Antiochus Thirdly it was taken in by Pompeius Fourthly destroyed of Vespasian and Titus Fiftly it was re-edifyed by Adrian the Emperrour and wonne againe by Gosdroes the Persian King Sixthly
it was ouercome by Homar Califf the successour of Mahomet Seuenthly by the great Souldan of Egypt and by Godfrey de Bulleine a Christian Prince Eightly by Salidine the Caliph of Egypt and Damascus who reserued successiuely the Signiory thereof for a long time And lastly it was surprised by Sultan Selim or Solyman the Emperor of the Turkes who fortified the same being by Infidels detained to this day And by likly-hood shall keepe it to the consummation of the world vnlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise then the hopes of mans weake iudgement can expect But to the intent the Reader may the better conceiue and plainely vnderstand the Monuments I saw within Ierusalem and the circumiacent places of Iudea I thought best to prefixe the description thereof by the seuerall daies as I saw them not much condemning neither absolutely qualifying them but shall as it were neutrally nominate and recapitulate these places as I was informed by the Padre Guardiano who is euery third yeare changed and especially Iohn Baptista the Trouch-man who hath dwelt at Ierusalem 25 yeares for he that vnderstandeth not promptly the Italian tongue which they vsually speake when they demonstrate these places to vs he shall conceiue ignorantly dispose his iudgement blindfoldedly knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances and qualities of the things deliuered As I haue knowne some of these Frankes in my company simply mistaken euen when the exposition of euery obiect was largely manifested vnto them and precisely declared such a thing to haue béen there although perhaps the matter it selfe be euanished and transported Aprill 14. on Palm-sunday after dinner the Guardiano departed from Ierusalem to Bethphage accompanied with twelue Friers and many other Orientall Christians which were come thither to that festiuall time but I by no meanes would go reposing my selfe till their returne The ridiculous ceremony which that day they vse is thus In an Apish imitation of Christ at the foresaid Bethphage there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano whereupon he mounted being as it were the greater Asse riding vpon the lesser and came riding to Ierusalem the people cutting downe boughs of trées and also dispoyling themselues almost to the skin bestrewed the way as he rode along crying Hosanna Hosanna the sonne of Dauid blessed is he that commeth in the name of the Lord vntill they came to the South gate of Sion where he dismounted At night after supper the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant and also some other Frankes made an Oration saying You Pilgrimes who refuse to bee participant with vs in the Sacraments or will not adhere to the processions ceremonies which we follow of the Roman Church I would therfore intreate you your liberty beeing here as much as mine whereby you may doe whatsoeuer seeme good in our owne eyes onely to abstaine from scandalizing and mocking our rites ordinary customes which at this great feast we must performe To the which we condescended and promised to giue no occasion of offence In the conclusion of his long exhortation he disclosed this admonition saying All you Trauellers must in general be indued with these thrée worthy gifts Faith Patience and Money Faith to beléeue these things you shall sée and heare at Ierusalem Patience to endure the apparant iniuries of Infidels and Money to discharge all tributes and costs which here meaning in his owne Monasterie and about this Citie must bee defrayed His Sermon hee concluded like a grey Frier as indéed he was for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith and Patience prouiding that our Purses could answere his expectation as truely we found the triall afterward Munday early wee Pilgrimes went forth to view the Monuments within the Citie being accompanied with the Padre Viccario and a French Predicatore the places of any note we saw were these First they shewed vs the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen who said Touch me not for I am not as yet ascended to my Father Ioh. 20 15. and in this place by them is supposed to be the center or middle part of the world Next where S. Iames the first Bishop of the primitiue Church was beheaded then the house of S. Thomas but that is doubtfull say they because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority from thence they brought vs to the place where Annas one of the high Priests dwelt and also the trée to which our Sauiour was bound whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiaphas but that I will not beléeue for that trée groweth yet being an Oliue trée They shewed vs also the house where S. Peter was imprisoned and where Zebedeus the father of Iames and Iohn dwelt which are nothing but a lumpe of ruines Thence we came to the decaied lodging of Caiphas without the Citie vpon the mount Sion wherevpon there is Chappell builded and at the entry of that little domo we saw the stone on which the Cocke crew when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the Stone that was rolled to the Sepulchre doore of our Sauiour being now made an Altar to the Abasenes a kinde of people which came from Prester Iehans dominions And within that Chappell they shewed vs a narrow pit wherein say they Christ was incarcerate the night before hee was brought to the Iudgement Hall Upon the same side of Sion we saw the place where Christ Christ did institute the Sacraments and not farre hence a decayed house where say they the Holy Ghost descended vpon the Apostles and also the Sepulchre of Dauid and his sonne Salomon ouer the which there is a Moskée wherein no Christian may enter to sée these Monuments From thence we returned and entred in via dolorosa the dolorous way by which our Lord and Sauiour passed when hee went to bee crucified and at the end of the same stréet here say they the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene and compelled him to helpe Christ to beare his Crosse when he fainted Pilats iudgement Hall is altogether ruinated hauing but onely betwéene the two sides of the Lane an old Arch of stone vnder the which I passed standing full in the high way Here they shewed vs the place where Christ first tooke vp his Crosse and on the toppe of that Arch wee saw that place called Gabbatha where Iesus stood when Pilate said to the Iewes Ecce homo A little below this they brought vs to the Church of S. Anna where say they the virgin Mary was borne And going downe another narrow lane they pointed vnto a house and said here Diues the rich Glutton dwelt who would not giue to Lazarus the crummes of bread that fell from his table this I suspend amongst many other things for all hold it to be a Parable and not a History and although it were a Historie who can demonstrate the particular place Ierusalem hauing béen so often transformed by alterations This I must néeds say with such
Westward in the way of Egypt the Castle of the Prophet Elisha Descending on the South side of the same Hill we arriued at Philips fountaine in which he baptized the Eunuch of Ethiopia standing full in the way of Gaza Here we paid some certaine Madins vnto the Moores of the village so did wee also for the sight of euery speciall Monument in Iudea At night we lodged in Bethleem in a Monastery of the same Franciscans of Ierusalem after supper we went all of vs hauing Candles to the place where our Sauiour was borne ouer the which there is a magnificent Church builded But before wee came where the Crubbe had béene wee passed certaine difficile wayes where being arriued we saw no Monument thereof saue onely they did demonstrate the place which is adorned with Marble Saphyre and Alabaster Stones Not farre from that they shewed vs the place ouer the which the starre stayed that conducted the thrée Wisemen from the East From thence they brought vs to a Caue without the Towne wherein say they the Uirgine Mary was hid when Herod persecuted the Babes life from which also being warned by the Angell Shee and Ioseph fled downe into Egypt with the Childe The earth of this Caue is white as snow and hath this miraculous operation that a little of it drunke in any liquor to a woman that after her childe-birth is barren of milke shall foorthwith giue aboundance which is not onely aualieable to Christians but also Turkish Moorish and Arabianish women who will come from far Countries to fetch of this earth I haue séene the nature of this dust practised wherefore I may boldly affirme it to haue the force of a strange vertue Wednesday following wee hired foure and twenty Moores to conduct vs vnto Salomons fish ponds which are onely thrée being neuer a whit decayed And to Fons Segnatus whence commeth the water in a stone Conduit along the Mountaines that serueth Ierusalem which worke was done by Salomon Returning thence and kéeping our way Southward we passed through the Ualley of Hebron where Iacob dwelt and entred into the fields of Sychem where Iacobs sonnes kept their fathers sheepe and not farre hence they shewed vs a dry pit which they called Iosephs pit that was at Dothan wherein hee was put by his brethren before they sold him to the Ismaelites In our backe comming to Bethleem we saw a Caue in the Desart of Ziph wherein Dauid hid himselfe when hee was persecuted by King Saul and the field Adra where the Angels brought the glad tydings of saluation vnto the Shepeheards Bethleem is the pleasantest Uillage in all Iudea situated on a pretty hill and fiue English miles from Ierusalem It produceth commodiously an infinite number of Oliue and Figge-trees some Cornes and a kind of white wine wherewith wee were furnished all the time of our abode there also in and about Ierusalem In our way as we came backe to the Citie the Viccario shewed vs a little Moskee kept by Turkes in which said he was the Toombe of Rachell Iacobs wife who dyed in that place as she was trauelling from Padan-Aram with her husband Iacob The foundation also of a house where Habacuck the Prophet dwelt a Trée growing yet by the way side vnder the which say they the Uirgin Mary was wont to repose her her selfe in trauelling Wee saw also a naturall rocke in the high way whereon say they Elias oft slept and is not ashamed to say that the hollow dimples of the stone was onely made by the impression of his body as though the tender flesh of man could leaue the print of his portraiture on a hard stone And not farre from this they shewed vs the place where the Starre appeared to the Wise-men after they had left Herod to seeke for the Sauiour of mankind Approaching Mount Sion wee saw a quadrangled dry pond wherein say they Beershaba the wife of Vrias was washing when Dauid looked forth at his window and was bewitched by her beauty Ouer against this place on the North side of Gehinnon we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein Dauid dwelt which hath béene one of the angles of the ancient Citie and standeth at the diuision of the valley Ennon which compassed as a ditch the North part of Mount Sion euen to the valley of Iehosaphat being now filled vp with fragments of old walles and the valley of Gehinnon lying West and East bordering along the south side of Sion til it ioyne also with the valley of Iehosaphat which inuironeth the East and deualling parts of Ierusalem Néere to this demolished Tower wee sawe the habitation of Simeon who hauing seene the blessed Messias said Now Lord let thy seruant depart in peace for mine eyes haue seene thy saluation Aprill 25. and the twelfth day of my abode there early on Thursday morning the Guardiano twelue Friers and Iohn Baptista because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments or was to bee seene there accompanied vs as wee issued at the South gate of the Citie we came to a place on the skirt of Sion where say they Peter after his denyall of Christ wept bitterly Descending by the side of that same Hill we crossed the valley Gehinnon and came to Acaldema the Potters field or field of bloud which is a little foure-squared roome three parts whereof are inuironed with a naturall rocke and the fourth square bordering with the valley is made vp of stone worke The top is couered and hath thrée holes where-through they let the dead Christians fall downe for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day As I looked downe I beheld a great number of dead corpes some whereof had white winding sheetes newly dead lying one aboue another in a lumpe yeelded a pestilent smell by reason they were not couered with earth saue onely the architecture of a high vault which maketh that in a long time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot Neere vnto this Campo wee entred into a darke Caue where say they the Apostles hid themselues when Christ was taken At the foote of the same Ualley wee came to Ponto Nehemia in which place the Iewes did hide the holy fire when they were taken captiues to Babylon walking more downe-ward toward the valley of Iehosaphat wee saw a darke cellar vnder the ground without windowes wherein said the Guardian the Idolatrous Iewes made a sacrifice of their children vnto a brasen Image called Moloch which being made hote they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof and so slew them and least their crying should haue moued any compassion towards them they made a thundring noyse with drummes and other instruments whereupon the place was called Tophet mentioned in Ier. 7.31 Hence wee came to the Poole of Siloam in which we washed our selues the water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke from the Citie aboue running strait to the valley of Iehosaphat and there we saw also the remnants of that sacked
Tower of Siloam Neere to this we saw a Fountaine where say they the Uirgin Mary vsed often to wash the Babes cloathes and linnen clowts From thence we crossed the Brooke Cedron which of old ran through the valley of Iehosaphat but now is dry and came to the Toombes of Absolom and Zacharias and the Caue wherein S. Iames was wont to hide himselfe from the persecuting Iewes Ascending more vpward on the hill in the way of Bythania we saw these places where Iudas hanged himselfe the withered fig-trée grew and the house of Simon the Leper Arriuing at Bythania we saw a Castle and Toombe of Lazarus on whom Christ shewed a miracle in raising him from the graue after hee had béene foure daies dead Not farre thence in the same Uillage we saw the decaied house where Martha and Mary Magdalen inhabited and the stone whereon Christ sate say they when hee said to Martha Mary hath chosen the better part Returning thence wée left Bethphage on our left hand and about mid-day arriued on the top of Mount Oliuet where we dined and procéeded in our sights From this place we had the full prosspect of Ierusalem For the Citie standing vpon the edge of a hill cannot bee seene all at one sight saue on this Mountaine which is thrée times higher then Mount Sion These are the Monuments shewen vs vpon the Mount of Oliues First the print of the left foote of our Sauiour in an immoueable stone which he made when hee ascended to heauen The Guardiano told vs further that the right footes print was taken away by Turkes and detained by them in the Temple of Salomon But who can thinke our Sauiour trode so hard at his Ascension as to haue left the impression of his feet behind him Next the place where hee foretold the iudgement to come and the signes and the wonders should bee séene in the heauens before that dreadfull day Thirdly the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made which is a fine chamber vnder the ground like a Church hauing twelue pillars to support it Fourthly where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster and where hee fell in an agony when hee sweate bloud and water Fiftly where Peter Iames and Iohn slept whiles our Sauiour prayed and returned so oft to awake them and also below that where the other Disciples were left Sixthly the Garden of Gethsemane where Christ vsed commonly to pray in the which place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests and was also where Iudas kissed him and the Sergants fell backward on the ground Seuenthly they shewed vs a stone marked with the head feete asd elbowes of Iesus in their throwing of him downe when as they bound him after he was taken aad euer since say they haue these prints remained there And lastly at the foote of Mount Oliuet in the valley of Iehosaphat we descended by a paire of staires of 43 steps and 6 paces large in a faire Church builded vnder the ground where say they the monument of the assumption of the virgin Mary is whom they thinke was borne in Ierusalem dwelt at Bethleem and Nazareth and died vpon Mount Sion I saw also there the Sepulchres of Ioseph her husband Ioachim her father and of Anna her mother The valley of Iehosaphat is two miles of length lying South and North. Lo I haue plainely described the whole Monuments I saw within and about Ierusalem by the order of these 12 seuerall daies the like heretofore was neuer by any Pilgrime so liuely manifested But as I said in the beginning of my description so say I now also at the conclusion some of these things are ridiculous some of manifest vntruths some also doubtfull and others somewhat more credible and of apparant truth The recapitulation whereof is onely by me vsed as I was informed by Gaudentius Saybantus the Padre Guardiano Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario and the Trouchman Iohn Baptista After this wandring vp and downe Iudea I stayed in Ierusalem thrée daies both reposing my selfe and also preparing my necessaries for a new voyage being determined to go downe to Egypt with a Carauan of Grand Cayro In the last night of my staying at Ierusalem which was at the holy Graue I remembring that bounden duty and louing zeale which I owe vnto my natiue Prince whom I in all humility next and immediate to Christ Iesus acknowledge to be the supreme Head and Gouernour of the true Christian and Catholique Church by the remembrance of this obligation I say I caused one Elias Bethleete a Christian inhabitour of Bethleem to ingraue on the flesh of my right arme The Neuer-conquered Crowne of Scotland and the now Inconquerable Crowne of England ioyned also to it with this inscription painefully carued in letters within the circle of the Crowne Viuat Iacobus Rex For the which the old Frier was mightily discontented and railed vpon me that I should as he said haue endured so much paine for such an Arch-enemy of the Romane Church but he not knowing how to mend himselfe in the end I quenched and abated his calumnies by a recitation of the incomparable vertues of our dread Soueraigne who for his bounty wisedome learning and gouernment was not equaled nor paragonized amongst all the Princes of the earth which he déepely conceiuing was stricken in admiration and began to intreat me if I liued to returne to my natiue Soile that I would make it knowne vnto his Maiesty the great tribulation and oppression they sustained vnder Infidels to preserue the memory of these Monuments especially of the holy Graue for the maintaining whereof said he that great Monarch gaue neuer any allowance nor supported the poore afflicted Christians at Ierusalem which indeed I promised to doe and also performed his request For after my first arriuall in England most humbly did I report it to his Highnesse in the priuy Garden of Greenewich who indeed gaue me a most gracious and compassionable answere saying They neuer sought any help of him and if they had hee would haue supported their necessity Aprill 29. and the 16. day of my staying there I and other ten Frankes made couenant with the Carauan of 900 persons bound for Egypt for ninetéene Piasters the man to furnish vs with Camels or Dromidories to ride on to exoner vs of all Caffars and tributes in our voyage to Cayro By which condition we had the aduantage of two commodities first it freed vs from the wrongs and extortions of sauage Rascals by the way Next we preuented all cosening and deceitfull dealing that might from the Captaine haue procéeded whose fidelity in him or such like is seldom sufficiently to strangers approued In the beginning of this iourney greatly was I animated with the company of these Franke Pilgrimes which I found in Ierusalem but alas no sooner was their society déere and acceptable to me but as soone by death was I robd of all the ten such was the will of the