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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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Citie are seated vpon Mountaines yet lower then any other part of the Citie Vpon the higher part of Mount Sion on the same South side towards the West lie many ruines of houses and it is most certaine that the Tower of Dauid and other famous houses there which are now without the walles were of old inclosed within them and that the City extended somewhat further towards the South then now it doth Yet the Hill of Sion is so compassed with knowne Vallies and those Vallies with high Mountaines as this extent could not be great Ierusalem was of old called Moria where they write that Adam was created of red earth is seated vpon Mount Moriah vpon the top wherof towards the North-west is Mount Caluery where they say that Abraham was ready to sacrifice his sonne Isaac and where without doubt our Sauiour Christ suffered and in the lowest part of this Mountaine the Temple of Salomon was seated The Citie was after called Salem and thirdly Iebus and fourthly Ierusalem and at this day the Turkes haue named it 〈◊〉 It is compassed with stately walles the like whereof I did neuer see of red and blacke stone more then an Elle long and about halfe an Elle broad I call them stately for the antiquitie wherein for the most part they much excell the Roman walles I numbred seuen Gates The first of Damasco of old called the Gate of Ephraim on the North side The second of Saint Stephen on the East side which of old had the name of the beasts for sacrifice brought in that way The third the golden Gate also on the East side which at this day is shut and bricked vp The fourth the Gate of presentation on the South-side leading into the Temple of Salomon but at this day shutvp The fifth Sterquilinea also on the South side so called of the filth there carried out The sixth the Gate of Syon also on the South side neare that part of Mount Syon which at this day is without the walles but this Gate hath been newly built The seuenth of Ioppa towards the West also newly built In generall the Gates are nothing lesse then fortified only as it were to terrifie the Christians who enter at the Gate of Ioppa they haue braggingly fortified the same and planted great Ordinance vpon it And howsoeuer the Citie seemes strong enough against sudden tumults yet it is no way able to hold out against a Christian Army well furnished neither doe the Turkes trust to their Forts but to their forces in field The houses here and in all parts of Asia that I haue seene are built of Flint stone very low onely one storie high the top whereof is plaine and plastered and hath battlements almost a yard high and in the day time they hide themselues within the chamber vnder this plastered floare from the Sunne and after Sunne-set walke eate and sleepe vpon the said plastred floare where as they walke each one may see their neighbours sleeping in bed or eating at table But as in the heate of the day they can scarce indure to weare linnen hose so when the Syren or dew falls at night they keepe themselues within dores till it be dried vp or else fling some garment ouer their heads And with this dew of the night all the fields are moistened the falling of raine being very rare in these parts towards the Equinoctiall line and in this place particularly happening onely about the month of October about which time it falles sometimes with great force by whole pales full The houses neare the Temple of Salomon are built with arches into the streete vnder which they walke drie and couered from the Sunne as like wife the houses are built in that sort in that part of the Citie where they shew the house of Herod in both which places the way on both sides the streete is raised for those that walke on foote lying low in the middest for the passage of laded Asses In other parts the Citie lies vninhabited there being onely Monasteriesof diuers Christian Sects with their Gardens And by reason of these waste places and heapes of Flint lying at the dores of the houses and the low building of them some streetes seeme rather ruines then dwelling houses to him that lookes on them neere hand But to them who behold the Citie from eminent places and especially from the most pleasant Mount Oliuet abounding with Oliues and the highest of all the Mountaines the prospect of the Citie and more specially of the Churches and Monasteries which are built with eleuated Glòbes couered with brasse or such glistering mettall promiseth much more beauty of the whole Citie to the beholders eyes then indeed it hath The circuit of the walles containeth some two or three Italian miles All the Citizens are either Tailors Shoomakers Cookes or Smiths which Smiths make their keyes and lockes not of Iron but of wood and in generall poore rascall people mingled of the scumme of diuers Nations partly Arabians partly Moores partly the basest inhabitants of neighbour Countries by which kind of people all the adioyning Territorie is likewise inhabited The Iewes in Turky are distinguished from others by red hats and being practicall doe liue for the most part vpon the sea-coasts and few or none of them come to this Citie inhabited by Christians that hate them and which should haue no traffique if the Christian Monasteries were taken away Finally the Inhabitants of Ierusalem at this day are as wicked as they were when they crucified our Lord gladly taking all occasions to vse Christians despitefully They esteemed vs Princes because wee wore gloues and brought with vs shirts and like necessaries though otherwise we were most poorely appareled yet when we went to see the monuments they sent out their boyes to scorne vs who leaped vpon our backes from the higher parts of the streete we passing in the lower part and snatched from vs our hats and other things while their fathers were no lesse ready to doe vs all iniuries which we were forced to beare silently and with incredible patience Hence it was that Robert Duke of Normandy being sicke and carried into Ierusalem vpon the backs of like rascalls when he met by the way a friend who then was returning into Europe desiring to know what hee would command him to his friends hee earnestly intreated him to tell them that he saw Duke Robert caried into heauen vpon the backs of Diuels The description of the Citie and the Territorie Now followes the explication of the Citie described and first the small Line drawne within the present walles on the West side of the Citie shewes the old walles thereof before Mount Caluery was inclosed within the walles by the Christian Kings for now there remaine no ruines of the old walles this line being onely imaginarie 1 Mount Sion without the walles for part of it is yet inclosed with them 2 The faire Castle which was built by the Pisans of Italy while yet
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
Histria now called Frioli and from the Territory of Paduoa and other Italians came from adioyning parts into certaine Ilands compassed with marshes that they might be safe from those Barbarians and about the yeere of our Lord 421 began to build a City which prouing a safe retreate from the tyranny then continually oppressing Italy in processe of time by ciuill Arts grew incredibly These Ilands were in number sixty neere adioyning and twelue more distant which being all ioyned in one haue made this stately City and the chiefe of them were called in the vulgar tongue Rialto Grado Heraclca Caestello Oliuolo The Iland Grado was of old the seat of the Patriarkes after that the Patriarchate of Aquilegia in Histria was by the Popes authority translated thither but now the seat of the Patriarkes is remoued to Caestello Oliuolo At first Consuls gouerned the City then Tribunes chosen out of each I le one till the yeere 697 when the Citizens abiding in Heraclea chose them a Duke who dwelt in the same I le After forty yeeres they chose a Tribune of souldiers in stead of a Duke with like authority as hee had and at last in the yeere 742 meeting in the Iland Malamocco they chose a Duke againe and remoued his seat from Heraclea to that Iland Then Pipin raigning in Italy about the yeere 800 the Venetians demolished Heraclea which was built againe but neuer recouered the old dignity being more notable in the seat of the Bishop then in the number of Citizens For most of the Gentlemen remoued their dwellings into the Iland Rialto otherwise called Riuo alto either of the depth of the marshes or because it was higher then the other Ilands and therevpon called Ripa alta Whereupon that Iland getting more dignity then the rest the Citizens in processe of time ioyned the sixty Ilands lying neere one to the other with some foure hundred bridges of which Ilands as is aboue said and of the twelue more distant this stately City consisteth Then by common counsell the seat of the Dukes was established in this Iland who built the stately Pallace which at this day we see And now a new Dukedome arising out of these salt marshes of the sea from that time daily grew in dignity But the City was first called Kialto and after of the countrey from whence the Citizens came was called Venetia or in the plurall number Venetiae because many Dukedomes and Prouinces or many Nations were ioyned in one and at this day is vulgarly called Venegia That the City was first called Rialto appeares by old records of Notaries written in these wordes After the vse of Venice In the name of eternall God amen subscribed in such a yeere of Riuoalto and in these wordes after the vse of the Empire In the name of Christ amen subscribed dated at Venice This stately City built in the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatique sea in the midst of marshes vpon many Ilands is defended on the East side against the sea by a banke of earth which hath fiue or some say seuen mouths or passages into the sea and is vulgarly called Il Lido and being so placed by nature not made by Art bendeth like a bowe and reacheth thirty fiue miles and by the aforesaid passages the ships and the tides of the sea goe in and out and the deepe marshes whereof I haue spoken are made of these salt waters and of diuers fresh waters falling from the Alpes and vulgarly called il Tagliamonts La liuenza la praac la Brenta Il Po l' Adice and il Bacchiglione On the West side the City is compassed with marshes and after fiue miles with the Territory of Paduoa On the North side with marshes and beyond them partly with the Prouince Frioli partly with the aforesaid sea banke And vpon the South side with many Ilands wherein are many Churches and Monasteries like so many Forts and beyond them with the firme land of Italy The City is eight miles in circuit and hath seuenty parishes wherein each Church hath a little market place for the most part foure square and a publike Well For the common sort vse well water and raine water kept in cesternes but the Gentlemen fetch their water by boat from the land It hath thirty one cloysters of Monkes and twenty eight of Nunnes besides chappels and almes-houses Channels of water passe through this City consisting of many Ilands ioyned with Bridges as the bloud passeth through the veines of mans body so that a man may passe to what place he will both by land and water The great channell is in length about one thousand three hundred paces and in breadth forty paces and hath onely one bridge called Rialto and the passage is very pleasant by this channell being adorned on both sides with stately Pallaces And that men may passe speedily besides this bridge there be thirteene places called Traghetti where boats attend called Gondole which being of incredible number giue ready passage to all men The rest of the channels running through lesse streets are more narrow and in them many bridges are to be passed vnder The aforesaid boats are very neat and couered all saue the ends with black cloth so as the passengers may goe vnseene and vnknowne and not bee annoyed at all with the sunne winde or raine And these boats are ready at call any minute of the day or night And if a stranger know not the way hee shall not need to aske it for if hee will follow the presse of people hee shall be sure to bee brought to the market place of Saint Marke or that of Rialto the streets being very narrow which they paue with bricke and besides if hee onely know his Hosts name taking a boat he shall be safely brought thither at any time of the night Almost all the houses haue two gates one towards the street the other towards the water or at least the bankes of the channels are so neere as the passage by water is as easie as by land The publike boats with the priuate of Gentlemen and Citizens are some eight hundred or as others say a thousand Though the floud or ebbe of the salt water bee small yet with that motion it carrieth away the filth of the City besides that by the multitude of fiers and the situation open to all windes the ayre is made very wholsome whereof the Venetians bragge that it agrees with all strangers complexions by a secret vertue whether they be brought vp in a good or ill ayre and preserueth them in their former health And though I dare not say that the Venetians liue long yet except they sooner grow old and rather seeme then truly be aged I neuer in any place obserued more old men or so many Senators venerable for their grey haires and aged grauity To conclude the situation of Venice is such as the Citizens abound with all commodities of sea and land and are not onely most safe from their enemies on
Hill and a Hill to a Mount Many doe falsely thinke that it had the name of such vessels in which tribute was brought to Rome and then the vessels were broken here Of old eight bridges were built ouer Tyber among which is reckoned Pons Miluius vulgarly Ponte Mole without the gate IIII Delpopolo more then a mile distant from Rome and neere this bridge Constantine the Great vnder the signe of the Crosse did ouercome the tyrant Maxentius Also this bridge was famous for the night lusts of Nero The second bridge is called XXXV di Castel ' Sant ' Angelo and it was of old called Elius of the Emperour Elius Adrianus who built it but Pope Nicholas the fifth built it as now it stands and set vpon it the Image of Saint Peter with his keyes and of Saint Paul with his sword The third bridge is called XXXVI Vaticanus as leading to that Mount and was also of old called Triumphalis of the Triumphes passing vpon it and it was not lawfull for the Countrey people to enter that way but at this day onely the ruines thereof are seene The fourth bridge is called XXXVII Ponte-Sisto of Pope Sixtus the fourth who repaired it It was of old called Ianiculonsis of that Mount and Aurelius of the way of that name and it was built of marble by Antoninus Pius and after being decaied was long called Ponte Rotto that is the broken bridge till the said Pope repaired it in the yeere 1475. and it is two hundred and fifteene foote broad and is built vpon three Arches of stone The fifth bridge ioining Rome and the Iland and next to the Capitolium is called XXXVIII Ponte at quattro Capt and was of old called Tarpeius of the Rocke Tarpcia which is in the Mount Capitolino and was called Fabricius of the repairer and it is seuenty foot long and hath but one Arch of stone The sixth bridge of a Church neere it is called XXXIX di S. Maria AEgittiaca and was of old called Scnatorim and Palatinus and it is somewhat longer then the bridge Sisto The seuenth bridge of a Church neere it is called XL di S. Bartolomeo and it is opposite to the fifth bridge and ioineth the Iland with that part of Rome called Trasteuere and of old it was called Psquilinus and Cestius and it is sixty foot long hauing but one Arch of stone The eight bridge at the foot of the Mount Auentine was of old called XLI Sublicius because it was built of wood in the warre with the Tuscanes that it might be more easily broken and repaired And we read that the Tuscanes being Victors had taken Rome if Horatius Cocles had not defended the bridge till it was broken downe behind him which done he saued himselfe by swimming After that Emilius Lepidus built this bridge of stone and called it Emilius and when it was broken with floods first the Emperour Tyberius repaired it and then Antoninus Pius built it very high of marble condemned men were cast from it into the water This bridge being the first that was built ouer Tyber now is not to be seene by any ruines Rome by the great power of the Emperours and since of the Popes hath beene long most famous and was first built in Latium vpon Tyber fifteene miles from the Tyrrhene sea as the Greekes write by Ascanius Eurilantes Romulus and Remus Nephewes to AEneas or as other Greekes write by the Achiui or as other Greekes write by the sonnes of Roma a woman of Troy married to the Latine King of the Aborigenes which sonnes were Romulus and Remus or as Xenagoras writes by the sonne of Vlisses by Circe to omit many other opinions of the Greekes The Latine Historians doe no lesse vary Some say it was built by the sonnes of AEneas namely Romulus and Remus Others say that Ascanius built Alba and Remus built Capua and Romulus built Ianiculum after called Rome But I omit these diuers opinions and will follow Leander the Fryar who saith that Rome the daughter of the King in Italy built Rome the same yeere that Moses was borne And when the City had beene long forsaken for the vnwholsome ayre of the Fennes adioining that Euander comming from Arcadia into Italy seated himselfe vpon the Mount Palatine and built a City called Palantium of his City in Arcadia and he being dead that Hercules comming with an Army left some of his consorts here who built vpon the Mount of Saturnius after called Capitolinus Before the destruction of Troy for the vnwholsome aire Rome being againe forsaken that the Albani began to dwell there in Cottages and seed their flockes there For by the continuall ouer flowings of Tyber the field was made fenny and the aire vnwholsome but Historians write that vpon sacrifices made to God Vertuno these Fennes by little and little were dried vp Hee adde that Amulius tooke the Kingdome of the Albani from his brother Numiter whose daughter Rhea a Vestall Virgin being great with child by Amulius Mars or any other brought forth Romulus and Remus and Amulius left them by Tyber to perish in the waters but a shee wolfe sed them and after Faustulus ouerseer of al the flocks and cattell of Amulius tooke them home who comming to ripe yeeres killed Amulius and restored their Grand-father Numitor to his Kingdome but themselues being desirous to build a City vpon the Mount Palatine at the foote whereof they had been cast out Romulus drew with a plow the circuit of the Citie of a quadrangular forme in the 430. yeere after the destruction of Troy and in the yeere of the World 3211. He gaue Mount Celius to be inhabited by Celius King of Toseany aiding him against the Sabines and then taking by force the Sabine weomen and they making peace betweene them he gaue to Tatius and his Sabines for their dwelling the Mountaines Capitolinus and Quirinalis and to his brother Remus the Mount Auentinus and kept for himselfe and his men the Mountaines Palatinus and Esquilinus till the rest being dead himselfe alone became Lord of all The seuen rockes were of old called seuen hils hauing a pleasant plaine betweene them and Tyber and this circuit is in forme of a bent bowe the Tyber standing for the string Romu'us made the City foure square but he being dead Ancus Martius inclosed the Mount Ianiculus beyond Tyber and Seruius inclosed other Mounts on this side of the Tyber Six Kings raigned two hundred forty three yeeres in Rome and Torquine being banished it became a popular State wherein Consuls yeerely chosen did gouerne and eight hundred eighty seuen Consuls in foure hundred sixty foure yeeres by forty three battels obtained the Empire almost of the whole world In the meane time the Decemuiri that is tenne men ruled for two yeeres and the Tribunes for Military affaires hauing Consular power ruled forty three yeeres and in the time of any difficult warre a Dictator was chosen who with absolute power ruled till that businesse was ended
them according to the Greeke language for the statua of Isis was at Saint German till it was taken away in the yeere 1514 and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin either of dirt for the Fens adioining or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out because all the floares are of plaster and the houses plastered ouer And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar who built great part thereof It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees and the chiefe part thereof namely the Iland or greater City is seated in a fenny ground For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris and broken downe the bridges In the time of King Phillip Augustus the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary on the North-side thereof as appeares by an inscription Also in the yeere 1373 for two moneths space they so ouerflowed the City as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine To conclude omitting many ouerflowings mentioned in Histories it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery that in the yeere 1496 there was a great inundation The City of old was all in the Iland and when it could not receiue the multitude increased the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent and first that part of the City called La ville then the third part called the Vniuersity were esteemed suburbes till after they were ioined to the City For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings so as the Subburbes were greater then the City whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had and compassed them with wals whereof the ruines yet appeare And new Suburbes being afterwards built King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉 made an Edict that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down and that no more should afterwards be built The Riuer Seyne running from the South and entering at the South-side diuides the City into two parts the greater part whereof towards the East and North lies low in a plaine and is vulgarly called La ville The lesse lying towards the South and West vpon a higher ground is seated betweene hils and is called the Vniuersity Betweene those two parts lies the third namely the Iland called the City which is seated in a plaine and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity with two bridges and to the Ville with three bridges but now a sixth called the new bridge doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity The part of the City called the Ville is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the East and North sides with wals rampiers and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle The second part of the City called the Vniuersity is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South and West sides with wals which they write to haue the forme of a hat saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland it had also the forme of another halfe circle though somewhat lesse then the former The third part called the Iland or City is compassed round about with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands which are marked in the map with blacke ines and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges and in respect of the Bishops Pallace he Kings greater Pallace it may be called the heart of the City The old wals of the Ville were first of lesse circuit then now they are for new wals were built which also included the Suburbes and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone the outer wall is of earth compailed round about with ditches which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water but further off towards the North and East are narrow and altogether drie But the old wals are either demolished or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals and because it is seated vpon high ground the ditches are altogether drie And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them And round about the City I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland are many rampiers vppon the wall like so many Forts The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North at this day is compassed Paris in generall is subiect to the King so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466 and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371 gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090 made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies he paued the streetes with flint and compassed the City with wals The Parisians haue raised many seditions The first in the yeere 1306 against rich men raising the rents of houses The second with the King of Nauar and the English against the Dolphin The third in the yeere 1383 against the Kings Treasurers which Charles the sixth returning with his Army out of Flanders did seuerely punish The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy The fifth most pestilent and longest with the Guisians against the last King of Valois The building of the City is for the most part stately of vnpolished stone with the outside plastered and rough cast and the houses for the most part are foure stories high and sometimes sixe besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes The streetes are somewhat large and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis the second Saint Honere the third Saint Antoine and the fourth Saint Martine And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest The pauement is of little but thicke and somewhat broade stones But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville either for the low situation or by the negligence of the Citizens are continually dirty and full of filth The three parts of the City namely the Ville the Iland and the Vniuersity being ioined together are of a round forme which of all others is most capable saue that the halfe circle of the Ville is greater then the other halfe circle which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of
outside of the earth Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line which diuideth the World into equall parts And if Palestina were iust vnder that line yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian should be the middest of the World as well as Palestina They answered that Dauid saith in his Psalmes In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation To which I replied that the middest of the World was there taken for the face and in the sight of the World so as none should be able to denie it Whereupon they grew angry and said that the Scripture must be beleeued in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers It had been vaine to dispute further with them there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem And to say truth if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Venetians they haue few or no learned men For my part I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke but onely one called Milesius who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople And these Greekes as in this point so in all other follow the literall sense of the Scriptures For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament And whereas Saint Paul saith Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife c. they so interpret it as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage yet he may neuer marry againe The Sorians are so called of Syria in which Prouince they liue hauing their owne Patriarke neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter that they say rather belongeth to them in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch They agreed with the Greekes in many things they denie Purgatorie they fast foure Lents in the yeere they permit their Priests to marrie they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice and otherwise speake their owne language which I take to be the Arabian tongue In Ierusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉 and of Nicodemus and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke noted with the figure 37. The Costi are Egyptians dwelling about Numidia They retaine the heresie of Arrius and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers who are to be blamed if it be not true These in the Church keepe the Chappell wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie where they say the scull of Adam lies and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk and they are subiect to their King Preti-Giani They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip and themselues are baptized not onely with water but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist I baptise you with water but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision like wary Notaries who fearing to faile in their assurance neuer think they haue vsed words enough yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes and thinke their Altars defiled if they doe but looke vpon them They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children and they as all the rest excepting the Franks that is Papists giue it in both kindes When they sing Masse or Psalmes they leape and clap their hands and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions They vse their owne that is the Egyptian tongue in Diuine seruice and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time do greatly maccrate their bodies In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta which they inhabite and they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon whom they reuerence as another Pope They disagree with the Greekes and rather apply themselues to the Franks yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth but fast that day They keepe the Roman Lent but more strictly abstaining from Fish and very Oyle which they vse for butter but vpon some Holy-dayes in that time they eate flesh They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament as the Papists doe but with them they lift vp the bread yea and the Cup also to be worshipped Of old with reseruation of customes they ioyned themselues to the Roman Church but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies they quickly fell from him The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads but in the forme of a Crosse and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long in two tusts placing therein great Religion In the Church they keepe the pillar where they say the garments of Christ were parted and lots cast vpon his Coate and in the Citie the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded and the house of the High Priest Caiphas vpon Mount Sion The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius who infected the Persians Tartars and Iewes with his heresie They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes and that to children as well as men They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice and otherwise the Arabian In the Church they keepe the prison wherein they say Christ was shut vp The Maronites inhabite Phanicia and the Mount of Libanus and they vse the Syrian tongue in their diuine seruice namely as I thinke the Arabian And they said that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem Some make mention of a tenth sect namely the lacobites named of Iacob Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexandria who liue mingled among Turkes Tartares inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike partly the Prouinces of India I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there neither yet to haue heard any mention of them yet others write that they admit circumcision as well as baptisme and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron in some conspicuous part of their body that they confesse their sinnes onely to God not to their Priests that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ that in token of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger and giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper in both kinds yea to Infants as well as to those who are of full age I cannot omit an old Spanish woman who had for many yeeres liued there locked vp in the Temple lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher and hauing her diet by the Friars almes Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres and in that time had alwaies
vnder Banaria towards the Alpes between Carinthia Heluetia or Sweitzerland and hath the name of the riuer Athesis vulgarly called Etsch which runs into Italy by Trent and Verona and is there called l'Adice and so falles into the Riuer Po. This Prouince is commonly called the County of Tyrol the Cities whereof are Brixia and AEnipons vulgarly Inspruck a faire Citie 5. The names of Rhetia Vindelicia Norira in these dayes are out of vse and the limits of them are often cōfounded That is properly Rhetia which lies between the lake of Constantis or Costnetz towards the North and the high top of the Alpes towards the South whose chiefe City is Bregants the inhabitants of these Alpes are vulgarly called Grisons 6 Vindelicia is the other part of that tract lying betweene the Danow and the Alpes which hath faire Cities as Augusta Vindelicorum vulgarly Augsburg a famous City Vlme Ingolstad Ratisbona vulgarly Regenspurg and Passaw Obserue that the old limits of Rhetia did reach to Verona and Como in Italy but now great part of it is laid to Sueuia in Germany as namely the Cities Augsburg and Vlme aforesaid 7 The Countries of Bauaria and of the Bishopricke of Saltzburg were of old called Vindelicia Noricum and the Inhabitants thereof Taurisci and it hath these Cities Scherdung Saltzburg and Lintz 8 Sueuia stretcheth into old Vindelicia and that which at this day is so called containes the greater part of Rhetia and Vindelicia The Sueuians vulgarly Schwaben of old forsooke their dwelling vpon the Riuer Elue and inuaded vpper Rhetia which to this day they hold The Cities thereof are Nerlingen Gepingen and the foresaid Vlme and Augsburg 9 Heluetia or Sweitzerland was of old part of Gallia Belgica now is reckoned as part of Germany The head spring of the Rheine the second Riuer of Germany next in greatnesse to the Danow is in the highest Alpes of Heluetia where it riseth in two heads and the Northerly head falling from the Mountaines Furca and Gotardo is called the fore Rheine and the Southerly head falling from the Lepontine Mountaines is called the hinder Rheine both which running towards the East are vnited at Chur and then with the name of Rheine it fals towards the North violently from the Mountains Heluetia hath many very famous Cities namely Schaffhusen as the houses of boats or ships Constantia vulgarly Costnetz Tigurum vulgarly Zurech Solodurum or Solothurn Bern Lucern Geneua with Losanna which two last of old were reckoned in Sauoy but now are confederate with the Sweitzers The Inhabitants of Heluetia are commonly called Sweitzers and among themselues they will be called Eidgenossin that is partakers of the sworne league The part of Heluetia betweene the Rheine and the lake of Constantia is called Brisgoia vulgarly Brisgaw Bris signifies a price and Gaw a meadow and therein is the spring-head of the Riuer Danow and the Townes thereof are Rotwill Brisach Friburg an Vniuersity Basil a famous Vniuersity of old belonging to Alsatia now confederate with the Sweitzers 10 Alsatia so called of the riuer Illa running through it is diuided into the vpper the lower The vpper from Basil to Strasburg is called Singaw and the Inhabitants of old were called Tribocchi and Tribotes some hold Strasburg of old to haue beene the chiefe City thereof but it hath now three Cities Basil Selestade and Rusach The lower lying aboue Strasburg to the Mount Vogasus hath these Cities Haganaw and Sabern 11. For the Tract vpon the Rheine first aboue Alsatia towards Metz the Nemetes whose chiefe City is Spira and the Vangiones whose chiefe City is Worms possesse the West side of the Rheine The tract adioyning is called Vetus Hannonia vulgarly Alt-henegaw Something further from the Rheine towards the Dukedome of Luxenburg are these Prouinces The County Sweybrucken also called Bipoutanus in Latin of two Bridges and the Cities are Sweybrucken and Sarbrucken Secondly Austracia vulgarly Vestreich as a vast Kingdome Thirdly the Territory of the Elector Bishop of Trier whereof the chiefe Citie is Treueris vulgarly Trier On the other side of the Rheine towards the East the Marquisate of Baden lyes next to Heluetia whose inhabitants of old were called Vespi Next lies the Dukedome of Wirtenburg the Cities whereof are Tubinga and Sturcardia whereof the former is an Vniuersitie Then followes the Palatinate of Rheine the Inhabitants whereof were of old called Intuergi Phargiones and are now called Phaltzer and Heidelberg seated vpon the Riuer Neccar is the chiefe Citie and the seate of the Palatine Elector The lower Germany is deuided into nineteene Prouinces Franconia Bohemia Morauia Silesia Saxonia Lusatia Misnia Turingia Marchia the Dukedome of Branswicke the Dukedome of Meckleburg Hassia Iuliacum Cliuia Westphalia Frisia Orientalis Pemerania Borussia Linonia for I omit Gallia Belgica to be handled in his proper place 1 Franconia is an ancient and noble Nation the inhabitants wherof driuing the Romans out of Gallia possessed the same and gaue the name of France to that Kingdome This Prouince hath old and faire Cities namely Bamberg a Bishops seate Rotenburg Francfort famous for the yeerely Marts or Faires Wirtzberg a Bishops seate Mentz or Metz the seate of the chiefe Elector Bishop and Nurnberg a famous City which some hold to be in Bauaria but the Citizens doe more willingly acknowledge themselues to be Franckes All the Prouince excepting the free Cities and the three Cities belonging to Bishops is subiect to the Margraue of Brandeburg 2 Bohemia hath a language proper to it selfe and hath two Prouinces belonging to it Morauia hauing his proper language and Silesia vsing the Dutch tongue and these three make a Kingdome which is subiect to the Emperour and it is ioyned by Geographers to the Prouinces of Germany because the same compasseth it almost round about Bohemia is not deuided into Counties but according to the Teritories belonging to the King or to Noble men and Gentlemen this being called the Kings land that the land of the Baron of Rosenberg or the land of the Popells and so of the rest The chiefe City and seate of the Emperour their King is Prage The Riuer Blue hath his head spring in Bohemia being the third Riuer of Germany and it runs through Saxony to Hamburg and after falls into the sea The inhabitants of Bohemia came out of Dalmatia as their language witnesseth 3 Morauia was of old inhabited by the Marcomanni and had subiect to it Bohemia Silesia and Polonia but at this day it is onely a Marquisate subiect to Bohemia and hath the name of the Riuer Moraua The chiefe City thereof is Bromia vulgarly Prim. 4 The inhabitants of Silesia were of old called Lugij Dantuli and Cogni The Riuer Viadrus or Odera runnes through it into Pomerania and so falles into the sea Silesia is annexed to Bohemia and so is likewise subiect to the Emperour as King of Bohemia and the chiefe City thereof is Vratislauia vulgarly Bressell and the inhabitants of this
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
place where they fable that Coryneus wrastled with Gogmagog and in this Towne was borne Sir Francis Drake Knight the cheefe glory of our Age for Nauigation who for two yeeres space did with continual victories as it were besiege the Gulfe of Mexico and in the yeere 15-- entring the straight of Magellan compassed the World in two yeeres and tenne moneths with many changes and hazards of Fortune The Towne Dortmouth is much frequented with Merchants and strong shippes for the commodity of the Hauen fortified with two Castles The City Excester called Isen by Ptolomy and of olde called Monketon of the Monkes is the cheefe City of the County and the seate of the Bishop 3 Dorsetshire was of old inhabited by the Durotriges The Towne Weymouth hath a Castle built by Henry the eighth to fortifie the Hauen Dorchester is the cheefe towne of the County but neither great nor faire 4 Sommersetshire was of old inhabited by the Netherlanders and is a large and rich County happy in the fruitfull soyle rich Pastures multitude of Inhabitants and commodity of Hauens The chiefe Towne Bridgewater hath the name of the Bridge and the water In the Iland Auallon so called in the Britans tongue of the Apples which the Latins cals Glasconia flourished the Monastery Glastenbury of great antiquity deriued from Ioseph of Arimathta Dunstan casting out the ancient Monkes brought thither the Benedictines of a later institution and himselfe was the first Abbot ouer a great multitude of Monkes indowed with Kingly reuenewes In the Church yard of this Monastery they say that the great worthy of the Britans Prince Arthur hath his Sepulcher The Episcopall little City called Wells of the Wells or Fountaines hath a stately Bishops Pallace The City Bathe is famous for the medicinall Baths whereof three Fountaines spring in the very City which are wholsome for bodies nummed with ill humours but are shut vp certaine howers of the day that no man should enter them till by their sluces they be purged of all filth The Bishop of Welles buying this City of Henry the first remoued his Episcopall seate thither yet still keeping the old name of Bishop of Welles and there built a new Cathedrall Church The City Bristowe is compassed with a double wall and hath so faire buildings as well publike as priuate houses as next to London and Yorke it is preferred to all other Cities of England 5 Wilshire was also inhabited by the Belgae or Netherlanders and lies all within land rich in all parts with pastures and corne Malmesbury is a faire Towne famous for the woollen clothes The Towne Wilton of old the cheefe of this County is now a little Village beautified with the stately Pallace of the Earles of Penbroke The City of Salisbury is made pleasant with waters running through the streetes and is beautified with a stately Cathedrall Church and the Colledge of the Deane and Prebends hauing rich Inhabitants in so pleasant a seate yet no way more famous then by hauing Iohn Iewell a late worthy Bishop borne there Some sixe miles from Salisbury is a place in the fields where huge stones are erected whereof some are eight and twenty foote high and seuen broade standing in three rowes after the forme of a crowne vppon which other stones are so laied acrosse as it seemes a worke hanging in the Ayre whereupon it is called Stoneheng vulgarly and is reputed among Miracles as placed there by Merlin there being scarce any stone for ordinary building in the Territory adioyning 6 Hamshire of old was inhabited within Land by the Belgae or Netherlanders and vppon the Sea coast by the Regni William the Norman Conquerour made here a Forrest for Deare destroying Towns and holy buildings for some thirty miles compasse which ground now well inhabited yet seruing for the same vse we call New-Forest Southampton a faire little City lies vpon the Sea Wintchester of old called Venta of the Belgae was a famous City in the time of the Romans and in these daies it is well inhabited watered with a pleasant Brooke and pleasantly seated and hath an olde Castle wherein there hanges against the wall a Table of a round forme vulgarly called Prince Arthurs round Table but Gamden thinkes it to haue been made long after his time It hath a Cathedrall Church and large Bishops Pallace and a famous Colledge founded for training vp young Schollers in learning whence many learned men haue been first sent to the Vniuersity and so into the Church and Commonwealth In the Towne or Port of Portsmouth lies a Garrison of souldiers to defend those parts from the incursions of the French by Sea 7 Barkshire was of old inhabited by the Atrebatij Newbery a famous Towne inriched by wollen clothes had his beginning of the ancient Towne Spina Windsore is famous by the Kings Castle neither can a Kings seate bee in a more pleasant situation which draweth the Kings often to retire thither and Edward the third kept at one time Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland captiues in this Castle The same Edward the third built here a stately Church and dedicated it to the blessed Virgin Mary and to S. George the Capadocian and first instituted the order of Knights called of the Garter as an happy omen of victory in warre happily succeeding who weare vnder the left knee a watchet Garter buckled hauing this mot in the French tongue grauen in letters of gold Hony soit qui mal'y pense and the ceremonies of this order hee instituted to be kept in this Church 8 The County of Surry was of old inhabited by the Regni Otelands is beautified with the Kings very faire and pleasant house as Richmond is with the Kings stately Pallace 9 The County of Sussex of old inhabited by the Regni hath the faire City Chichesler and the Hauen Rhie knowne by being the most frequented passage into France 10 The County of Kent is rich in medows Pastures pleasant Groues and wonderfully aboundeth with Apples and Cherries It hath most frequent Townes and safe Harbours for ships and some vaines of Iron William the Norman Conquerour after the manner of the Romans instituted a Warden of the fiue Ports Hastings Douer Hith Rumney and Sandwiche to which Winchelsey and Rie the chiefe Hauens and other Townes are ioyned as members which haue great priuiledges because they are tied to serue in the warres and the Warden of them is alwaies one of the great Lords who within his iurisdiction hath in most things the authority of Admirall and other rights Detford Towne is well knowne where the Kings ships are built and repaired and there is a notable Armory or storehouse for the Kings Nauy Not farre from thence vpon the shore lie the broken ribs of the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round about the World reserued for a monument of that great action Greenewich is beautified with the Kings Pallace Eltham another house of the Kings is not farre distant The Towne
Grauesend is a knowne Roade The City Rochester is the seate of a Bishop and hath a stately Cathedrall Church Canterbery is a very ancient City the seate of an Archbishop who in the Hierarchy of the Roman Bishop was stiled the Popes Legate but the Popes authority being banished out of England it was decreed in a Synod held the yeere 1534 that the Archbishops laying aside that title should be called the Primates and Metrapolitanes of all England Before the Rode of Margat lie the dangerous shelfes or flats of sand whereof the greatest is called Goodwin sand Douer is a Port of old very commodious but now lesse safe onely it is more famous for the short cut to Callis in France The Towne Rumney one of the fiue Portes in our Grand-fathers time lay close vpon the Sea but now is almost two miles distant from the same 11 Glocestershire was of old inhabited by the Dobuni William of Malmesbury writes that this County is so fertile in Corne and fruites as in some places it yeelds a hundreth measures of graine for one sowed but Camden affirmes this to bee false The same Writer affirmes that the very high waies are full of Appell trees not planted but growing by the nature of the soyle and that the fruits so growing are better then others planted both in beauty taste and lasting being to be kept a whole yeere from rotting He adds that it yeelded in his time plenty of Vines abounding with Grapes of a pleasant taste so as the wines made thereof were not sharpe but almost as pleasant as the Fench wines which Camden thinkes probable there being many places still called Vineyards and attributes it rather to the Inhabitants slothfulnesse then to the fault of the Ayre or soyle that it yeeldes not wine at this day Tewkesbury is a large and faire Towne hauing three Bridges ouer three Riuers and being famous for making of woollen cloth for excellent mustard and a faire Monastery in which the Earles of Glocester haue their Sepulchers The City of Glocester is the cheefe of the County through which the Seuerne runnes and here are the famous Hils of Cotswold vpon which great flockes of sheepe doe feede yeelding most white wooll much esteemed of all Nations Circester is an ancient City the largenesse whereof in old time appeares by the ruines of the wals The Riuer Onse springeth in this County which after yeeldes the name to the famous Riuer Thames falling into it 12 Oxfordshire also was inhabited by the Dobuni a fertile County the plaines whereof are bewtified with meadowes and groues the hils with woods and not onely it abounds with corne but with all manner of cattle and game for hunting and hawking and with many Riuers full of fish Woodstocke Towne is famous for the Kings House and large Parke compassed with a stone wall which is said to haue been the first Parke in England but our Progenitors were so delighted with hunting as the Parkes are now growne infinite in number and are thought to containe more fallow Deere then all the Christian World besides Histories affirme that Henry the second for his Mistris Rosamond of the Cliffords house did build in his house here a labyrinth vnpassable by any without a threed to guide them but no ruines thereof now remaine The Towne itselfe hath nothing to boast but that Ieffry Chancer the English Homer was borne there Godstowe of old a Nunnery is not farre distant where Rosamond was buried Oxford is a famous Vniuersity giuing the name to the County and was so called of the Foorde for Oxen or of the Foorde and the Riuer Onse 13 Buckinghamshire was of old inhabited by the Cattienchiani which Camden thinks to be the Cassei and it hath a large and pleasant towne called Ailsbury which giues the name to the Valley adioyning The city Buckingham is the chiefe of the County and the Towne of Stonystratford is well knowne for the faire Innes and stately Bridge of stone 14 Bedfordshire had the same old inhabitants and hath the name of Bedford the chiefe Towne 15 Hertfordshire had the same old inhabitants and the chiefe Towne is Hertford In this County is the stately house Thibaulds for building Gardens and Walks Saint Albons is a pleasant Towne full of faire Innes 16 Midlesex County was of old inhabited by the Trinobants called Mercij in the time of the Saxon Kings In this County is the Kings stately pallace Hamptencourt hauing many Courtyards compassed with sumptuous buildings London the seate of the Brittans Empire and the Chamber of the Kings of England is so famous as it needes not bee praysed It hath Colledges for the studie of the municiple Lawes wherein liue many young Gentlemen Students of the same The little citie Westminster of old more then a mile distant is now by faire buildings ioyned to London and is famous for the Church wherein the Kings and Nobles haue stately Sepulchers and for the Courts of Iustice at Westminster Hall where the Parliaments are extraordinarily held and ordinarily the Chancerie Kings Bench with like Courts Also it hath the Kings stately Pallace called Whitehall to which is ioyned the Parke and house of Saint Iames. The Citie of London hath the sumptuous Church of Saint Paul beautified with rich Sepulchers and the Burse or Exchange a stately house built for the meeting of Merchants a very sumptuous and wonderfull Bridge built ouer the Thames rich shops of Gold-smiths in Cheapeside and innumerable statelie Pallaces whereof great part lye scattered in vnfrequented lanes 17 Essex County had of old the same inhabitants and it is a large Teritorie yeelding much Corne and Saffron enriched by the Ocean and with pleasant Riuers for fishing with Groues and many other pleasures It hath a large Forrest for hunting called Waltham Forrest Chensford is a large and faire Towne neere which is New-Hall the stately Pallace of the Rateliffes Earles of Sussex Colchester is a faire City pleasantly seated well inhabited and beautified with fifteene Churches which greatly flourished in the time of the Romans Harewich is a safe Hauen for ships Saffron Walden is a faire Towne the fields whereof yeeld plenty of Saffron whereof it hath part of the name 18 The County of Suffolke was of old inhabited by the Iceni and it is large the soile fertile pleasant in groues and rich in pastures to fat Cattle where great quantity of Cheese is made and thence exported Saint Edmondsberry vulgarly called Berry is a faire Towne and so is Ipswich hauing stately built Churches and houses and a commodious Hauen 19 The County of Norfolke had of old the same Inhabitants and it is a large almost all Champion Countrey very rich and abounding with sheepe and especially with Conies fruitfull and most populous The City Norwich chiefe of the County deserues to be numbered among the chiefe Cities of England for the riches populousnesse beauty of the Houses and the faire building of the Churches Yarmouth is a most faire Towne fortified
tooke my iourney in the afternoone to Witteberg and came that night to Teben a Village foure miles distant through a Wood so large as wee could not passe it in two houres beyond which the ground was barren till wee passed the Riuer Elue which runneth by Witteberg all the length of it from the East to the West but is somewhat distant from the Towne The next day we passed foure miles to Witteberg which hath his name of Wittekindus the first Christian Duke of Saxony and is seated in a plaine sandy ground hauing on the North Hils planted with Vines yeelding a sower grape plentifully yet they make no wine thereof One streete lies the whole length of the Towne being all the beautie thereof and in the midst of this street is the Cathedrall Church and a faire market place in which the Senate house is built and neere the West gate is the Dukes Church It is prouerbially said that a man shall meet nothing at Witteberg but whores students and swine to which purpose they haue these two Verses Ni Witeberga sues ni plurima scorta teneret Ni pubem Phoebi quaeso quid esset ibi Had Witeberg no swine if no whores were Nor Phoebus traine I pray you what is there Whence may be gathered that the Citizens haue small trafficke liuing only vpon the Schollers and that the streets must needs be filthy In the study of Doctor Wisinbechius this inscription is in Latine Here stood the bed in which Luther gently died See how much they attribute to Luther for this is not the place where hee died neither was there any bed yet suffer they not the least memory of him to be blotted out Luther was borne at Isleb in the yere 1483 certainly died there in the house of Count Mansfield where after supper the seuenteenth of February he fell into his vsuall sickenesse namely the stopping of humors in the Orifice of his belly and died thereupon at fiue of the clocke in the morning the eighteenth of February in the yeere 1546. the said Count and his Countesse and many other being present and receiuing great comfort from his last exhortations yet from his sudden death the malitious Iesuits tooke occasion to slander him as if he died drunken that by aspersions on his life and death they might slander the reformation of Religion which he first began These men after their manner being to coniure an vncleane spirit out of a man in Prage gaue out that he was free from this spirit for the time that Luther died and that when hee returned they examined him where hee had beene that time and the spirit should answere that hee had attended Luther Phillip Melancthon borne in the yeere 1497. died 1560. and both these famous men were buried and haue their Monuments in the Dukes Church at Witteberg which is said to be like that of Hierusalem and in that both of them are round I will not deny it but I dare say they differ in this that Hierusalem Church hath the Chauncell in the middest with Allies to goe round about it whereas the Chancell of this Church is at the East end of it The Wittebergers tell many things of Luther which seeme fabulous among other things they shew an aspersion of inke cast by the Diuell when he tempted Luther vpon the wall in S. Augustines Colledge Besides they shew a house wherein Doctor Faustus a famous coniurer dwelt They say that this Doctor liued there about the yeere 1500. and had a tree all blasted and burnt in the adioyning Wood where hee practised his Magick Art and that hee died or rather was fetched by the Diuell in a Village neere the Towne I did see the tree so burnt but walking at leasure through all the Villages adioyning I could neuer heare any memory of his end Not farre from the City there is a mountaine called the Mount of Apollo which then as of old abounded with medicinable herbes In a Village neere the Towne there be yet many tokens that the Emperour Charles the fifth encamped there I liued at Witteberg the rest of this summer where I paied a Gulden weekely for my diet and beere which they account apart and for my chamber after the rate of tenne Guldens by the yeare I heare that since all things are dearer the Schollers vsing to pay each weeke a Dollor for their diet and a Dollor for chamber and washing Hence I tooke my iourney to Friburge that I might see the funerall of Christianus the Elector Three of vs hired a Coach all this iourney for a Dollor each day with condition that we should pay for the meat of the horses and of the coach-man which cost as much more And this we paied because we had freedome to leaue the coach at our pleasure though we returned with it to Leipzig to which if we would haue tied our selues we might haue had the coach for halfe a Dollor a day The first day wee went sixe miles to Torge through sandy fields yeelding corne and we dined at Belgar a Village where each man paied fiue grosh for his dinner and by the way they shewed vs a Village called Itzan where Luther made his first Sermons of reformation Torge is a faire City of Misen of a round forme falling each way from a mountaine and seated on the West side of Elue It hath a stately Castle belonging to the Elector Duke of Saxony who is Lord of Leipzig Witteberg and all the Cities we shall passe in this iourney This Castle is washed with the Riuer Elue and was built by Iohn Fredricke Elector in the yeere 1535. It hath a winding way or plaine staire by which a horse may easily goe to the top of the Castle the passage being so plaine as the ascent can scarcely be discerned The Hall Chambers and Galleries of this Castle are very faire and beautifull and adorned with artificiall pictures among which one of a boy presenting flowers is fairer then the rest Also there is a picture on the wall of one Laurence Weydenberg a Sweitzer made in the twentieth yeere of his age in the yeere 1531 shewing that he was nine foot high In the Church there is a Monument of Katherine a Nunne which died 1552. and was wife vnto Luther The Village Milburg is within a mile of this City in the way to Dresden where the Elector Fredericke was taken prisone by Charles the fifth in the Protestants warre The lake neere the City is a mile in circuit for the fishing whereof the Citizens pay 500. guldens yeerely to the Elector of Saxony and they fish it once in three yeeres and sell the fish for some 5000. guldens The beare of Torge is much esteemed through all Misen whereof they sell such quantity abroad as ten water-mils besides wind-mils scarcely serue the towne for this purpose From Torge we went six miles to Misen in our Coach hired as aforesaid and we dined each man for fiue grosh in the
through any village I should be sure to be taken kept prisoner till I should pay a great fine whereupon I presently cast away this bough with many thankes to him for his gentle warning How Florence came to be subiect to the House of Medici with the title of Great Duke I must hereafter shew in the discourse of the Florentine Common-wealth At this time I will set downe as briefly as I can the discription of the City and fields adioining It is a most sweet City and abounding with wealth the Citizens are much commended for their curtesie modesty grauity purity of language and many virtues The City is innobled with the Dukes Court and with stately Pallaces built within and without the wals and for the stately buildings sweet situation it is worthily called Florence the beautifull vulgarly Fiorenza la bella It is said to haue had the name Florentia in Latin either of the Fluentini a neighbour people of whom they come or of the perpetuall happines into which it grew like a flower or of the Citizens wealth and the Cities beauty flourishing like a flower The pauement of the City is not of flint as at Rome nor of bricke as at Sienna but of very broad and faire free stone The houses after the manner of Italy are built with a low roofe excepting the Pallaces which are stately built of free stone engrauen The windowes as in all the Cities of Italy excepting Venice alone are not glased but either lie altogether open to take aire or are couered with oyled paper and linnen cloth The streetes are most broad and haue an open aire In discribing the Citie I will begin without the walles And first towards the North and East it is compassed with pleasant Hills planted with excellent fruit trees and lying in the forme of an Amphitheater and behind them the high Mountaines of the Apenine somewhat remoued are instead of strong walles to the Citie Also on the South side it hath like Hilles and distant Mountaines but towards the West it lies open to the most pleasant Valy of Arno which Valy continueth as farre as Pisa and to the sea-side On all sides without the walles Pallaces of Gentlemen are most frequent and houses of Citizens not distant aboue three or foure closes one from the other whereupon the Emperour Charles the fifth beholding the Citie and the Countrey from a high steeple affirmed that Florence was the greatest Citie in the whole world and when hee perceiued that the standers by 〈◊〉 doubtfull of his meaning he added that in good earnest he reputed all the Pallaces without the walles compassed with Hilles and Mountaines as with walles to bee within the circuit of the Citie It is seated as it were in the Center of Italy betweene the aire of Arezzo producing quick wits where Peter Aretine the Poet was borne of a sharp wit though hee abused it wantonly and the aire of Pisa lesse pure and yeelding men of strong memory so as it hath had by this temperature of aire many Citizens as well sharpe to learne sciences as strong to retaine them The Riuer Arno running from East to West diuides the Citie but into vnequall parts the farre greater part lying on the North-side and the lesse on the South-side and the bridge to passe from one to the other is almost in the very middest of the City which is fairely built yet is more magnified by strangers then it deserues It hath little houses vpon it where with it is couered and vpon each side are Gold-smithes shops which make small or no shew at ordinarie times but when the Duke Ferdinando brought his Dutchesse the Daughter of the Duke of Loraine to the Citie at her enterance those shops were furnished with vessels of siluer and many rich Iewels yet borowed of the Citizens to that purpose And howsoeuer some strangers may wonder at it yet they who compare that bridge with the bridge of London or those Gold-smiths shops with the daily shew of the Gold-smiths in Cheape-side shall finde no cause to wonder thereat The bridge hath two hundred twentie eight walking paces in length and is built vpon seuen Arches There bee three other bridges ouer Arno but farre lesse in bignesse and magnificence then the former for the Riuer is shallow scarce couering the sand or stones though beyond the Citie it be increased with other waters and is subiect to ouer-flowing vpon any great raine The Citie is of a round forme and vpon the walles thereof lie eight Fortes whereof the greatest and strongest lies towards the South And the farre greater part of the Citie on the North side of the Riuer lies in a Plaine but in the lesse part on the South side of the Riuer the houses towards the North-East are built vpon the sides of Mountaines and the dwellings are more scattered hauing many and large Gardens and in that part there is a place vulgarly called le Ruinate that is the ruinous because the houses haue been often ruined by Earthquakes and there you shall find this inscription in Latin Duke Cosmo in the yeere 1533 forbad the houses of this Mountaine to be rebuilt which thrice fell by the fault of the soyle Neere that place lies a lane vnpaued in memory of a Virgin that dwelt there whom a yong man loued who was borne of a Family of a contrarie faction to hers betweene whom many cruelties had been exercised and they mutually louing each other despairing to get their friends consent for mariage and at last being impatient of delay resolued with what danger soeuer to meet together But it happened that the yong man being to ascend into the Virgins Chamber by a ladder was surprised who to saue the reputation of the Virgin confessed that he came to rob the house whereupon he was condemned to die and being led to execution by the house where the Virgin dwelt she laying aside all shame came running out with her loose haire about her eares and embracing him confessed the truth publikly with which accident both their parents were so moued as laying aside all former malice they contracted affinity and the young man deliuered from the bonds of the hangman was tied to her in the sweet bond of marriage And of this wonderfull euent the Florentines thought good to keepe this memorie for posteritie The Duke hath two Pallaces within the City whereof one is called Pallazzo di Pitti seated in this part of the City which a Gentleman of Florence by name Lucca della Casa de Pitti began to build but falling into pouerty and not able to finish it was forced to sel the same to Cosmo de Medicis being Great Duke of Florence and shortly after conuicted of treason was beheaded This is the most stately Pallace in the Citie in the Garden whereof called Belueder are many most sweete shades among pleasant Groues together with a pleasant Caue and Fountaine They say that one Mule did bring all the matter to this building
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
harme to the same from some high places without this gate On the left hand as you come into the broad and faire street of Saint Denys lies a Castle which they say Iulius Casar built and the same Castle was of old the chiefe gate of Paris whereupon Marcellinus cals the whole City the Castle of the Parisians And vpon the righthand is the Nunnery of the daughters of God which vse to giue three morsels of bread and a cup of wine to condemned men going to execution Not farre thence is the large Church yard of the Holy Innocents which King Phillip Augustus compassed with wals and there be many faire sepulchers and they say that bodies buried there are consumed in nine daies The fifth F gate lies toward the North and is called Mont-Martre so called of a mountaine of the same name lying without that gate and hauing the name of Martyres there executed And Henry the fourth besieging the City mounted his great Ordinance in this place The sixth G gate Saint Honore hath a suburbe in which is the market place for swines flesh and vpon the right hand as you come in hard by the gate is an Hospitall for three hundred blind men The seuenth H and last gate lies vpon the Seyne towards the North-west and is called the new gate and within the same about a musket shot distance is the I Kings Pallace which may be called the lesse Pallace in respect of the greater seated in the Iland and this little Pallace is vulgarly called Le' leuure This Pallace hath onely one Court yard and is of a quadrangle forme saue that the length somewhat passeth the bredth and the building being of free stone seemeth partly old partly new and towards one of the corners the Kings chambers vulgarly called Il Pauillon are more fairely built then the rest Without the said new gate some halfe musket shot distance is the Kings garden with the banquetting house vulgarly called Les Tuilleries And now the ciuill warres being ended the King beganne to build a stately gallery which should ioine together this garden and the foresaid Pallace of the King and I heare that this Gallery is since finished And the hall ioining this gallery with the Pallace doth passe the stately building of the rest of the Pallace being beautified with many stones of marble and of porphery I say that this Gallery leads from the Pallace ouer the wals of the City and the ditch thereof being neere the riuer and so full of water and after being supported with two or three Arches reacheth to the same garden and all the way without the wals from the Pallace to the said Garden being compassed with wals on both sides this gallery the Garden seemes to be so much increased On the left hand as you come into the foresaid new Gate lies the Tower Luparia Alencon house Burbon house the Coyning house and vpon the right hand the chiefe Coyning house lying vpon the Riuer Seyne To conclude of the streetes of this part of the Citie called Ville the chiefe is S. Antoine the second of the Temple the third S. Martine the fourth S. Denys the fifth Mont Martre the sixth S. Honore all so named of their Gates and the seuenth Luparia vpon the banke of the Riuer Seyne And amongst all these the most faire are that of S. Antoine S. Denis S. Honorè and S. Martinè so called of their Gates A. E. G. D. The second part of the Citie called the Vniuersitie hath the Riuer Seyne on the East and North-sides and is compassed with walles on the South and West sides and hath seuen Gates The first K Gate S. Victoire lies on the South side vpon the Riuer and hath his Suburbe with a stately Monastery And from the Hill adioyning to this Gate the Army of King Henrie the fourth besieging the Citie much pressed the same hauing their Cannon planted neere the Gallowes On the right hand as you come in towards the Riuer lie the Tower Nella the vpper the Colledge of the Cardinall the Colledge of the good boyes the Colledge and the Church of the Bernardines which Pope Benedict the twelfth built and the Cardinall of Telouse increased with a Libraty and with maintenance for sixteene Scholers to studie Diuinitie Also there lie the house of Lorayne the great Schooles of foure Nations the Market place for Riuer fish and the Castle and the little bridge which the Prouost of Paris built to restraine the Schollers walking by night in the time of King Charles the fifth The second gate is called L the Porte of Marcellus or of the Stewes and it hath a Suburbe where in the Church of Saint Marcellus Bishop of Paris and canonized for a Saint which Rowland Count of Blois nephew to Charles the Great did build Peter Lombardiu Bishop of Paris was buried in the yeere 1164 and behinde the great Altar in a window is the Image of Charles the Great On the right hand as you enter the said Port by the Mount of S. Genouefa lie the Colledge Turnonium the Colledge Bonae Curiae the Colledge of the Dutch the Colledge of Navarra the Colledge Marchieum and the Colledge Laudunense and on the left hand the Colledge of the Lombards the Colledge Prellaum famous for Peter Ramus who was Master of that Colledge was there killed in the massacre The third Gate of M S Iames lyes on the South-west side where King Francis the first built a fort without this Gate is a suburb in which is a Church yard of the Monastery of Saint Marie at the very entrie whereof is a most ancient Image of the Virgin painted with gold and siluer with an inscription vpon it In the streete of Saint Iames the Iesuites had their Colledges till for their wicked acts they were banished the Citie and Kingdome And since their restitution I thinke they now enioy the same On the right hand as you enter this Gate lie the Colledge Lexouiense the Colledge of Saint Michael or Cenate the Colledge Montis Acuti which built in the yeere 1490 maintaines certaine poore Scholers called Capeti the Colledge of S. Barbera the Colledge of Rheines the schoole of Decrees the Colledge Bellouaccuse the Colledge Triqueticum the Colledge Cameracense and the Colledge Carnouallense On the left hand lie the Colledge of the bald men the Colledge of Sorbona which Robert of Sorbona a Diuine and familiar with King Saint Lewis did institute and the same in processe of time became of great authority in determining questions of Diuinity the Colledge of Master Geruasius a Christian the Colledge Plexourense and the Colledge Marmontense The fourth N Gate of the vniuersity is called Port Michaell where Francis the first built a Fort and before the gate is a Monastery of the Carthusians where a statua of blacke marble is erected to Peter Nauareus and there be two statuaes of white marble without any inscription On the right hand as you enter this gate lie the
the way being very slipperie and so we rode one most long Dutch mile to Bersena The ninth day we rode three most long miles to Bergo I meane Dutch miles for I had no other companions but Dutch who reckon the way after their owne miles This day wee passed infamous places for robberies especially one where 5 waies leade to 5 wooddie Mountaines and here we did see theeues being our selues in safetie they hauing no meanes to come to vs in a Plaine so couered with snow that our Horses were vpto the saddles therein and could hardly passe the high way After dinner we rode two most long Dutch miles to Griguo The tenth day we rode two Dutch miles to Primolano the first Village in the State of Venice but from the foresaid confines of the Empire to this place all the Territorie belonged to diners Gentlemen neither subiect to the Empire nor to the State of Venice but liuing free onely acknowledging to hold their land from the Arch-Dukes of Austria Also beyond Primolane subiect to the State of Venice there is a Fort built betweene a narrow passage of two Mountaines which Fort is very little but hangeth ouer the high way being built on the side of a Mountaine and this Fort is kept by Dutch Souldiers It hath no Gate but they that will goe forth must be let downe by a rope and they that will enter it must in like sort be drawne vp Moreouer before dinner we rode from Primolano one Dutch mile to Carpanella and at our setting forth from Primolan wee passed ouer a Bridge vnder which was little water for the present but when the snow melts from the Mountaines or any great raine falles the waters there are high and violent and some moneth past when the Carrier of Augspurg and his consorts could no way passe the same they told vs that an English Gentleman impatient of delay and trying to passe the same was drowned and that his body was found after somefew daies when it had been spoiled of a gold chaine and store of Crownes they being vnknowne who got this bootie and that he was at first buried in a Chappell but after taken vp by the Priests and buried in the high way when they heard he was an Englishman and thereupon suspected him to be an heritike For the building of this bridge each of vs payed two creitzers in the next Village In our mornings iourney the way was narrow betweene Mountaines and we might see and heare Mountaines of dissolued snow drawing with them huge stones to fall with great noise into the high way before vs and into other adioyning Vallyes After dinner we rode through a plane tilled after the manner of Lombardy three Dutch miles and a halfe to the Castle Franco The twelfth day we rode three Dutch miles to the Citie Treuigi through a like Plaine After dinner for I haue formerly described Treuigi we rode two Dutch miles or ten Italian miles through a like Plaine to Mestre From hence we passed by water to Venice being fiue miles first in a Ditch each man paying one soldo for his passage then in other boats ouer the Lakes wherewith Venice is compassed each man paying three soldi for his passage I omit to speake any thing of Venice which I haue formerly described We being now to take our purposed iourney into the Turkes Dominions thought it best first to goe to Constantinople where the English Ambassadour giuing vs a Ianizare for our guide we hoped the rest of our iourney would be pleasant and void of all trouble For this Ianizare aswell for their wonted faithfulnesse to those that giue them wages as for the account he was to make of our safetie to the said Ambassadour no doubt would haue been a faithfull guide to vs. But when we inquired of the way from Raguza to Constantinople by land all the Postes and Messengers passing that way told vs that the warre of Hungarie made all those parts full of tragedies and miserie Then we thought to goe by Sea to Constantinople but when wee heard that no ship would be had in three moneths at least that long delay was hatefull to vs. Too late after my returne by experience in my iourney and conference I found a third way namely by Sea from Venice to Zant and from that Iland taking the Councell of the English Merchants there to Petrasso seated vpon the Corinthian Creeke of the Sea in Peloponesus a Prouince of Greece called by the Turkes Morea then to take a Ianizare from the English Consul there residing and with him to passe by land to Athens and by Sea in little Barkes from thence to Constantinople The fourth way was not vnknowne to vs namely to goe by Sea to Cyprus as wee did and in the same ship to haue passed to Scanderona and there taking a Ianizare from the English Factor maintained there by our Merchants of Haleppo to haue passed vnder his conduct by Sea to Ierusalem Or else to haue gone from Scanderona to Haleppo and there taking a Ianizare of the English Consul and obtaining letters from the Italians to recommend the care of vs and our safetie to the Guardian of the Monastery of the Latin Church in Ierusalem which our Merchants would easily haue obtained for vs to haue passed from thence by land to Ierusalem But when wee imparted at Cyprus this our purpose to the Consorts of our iourney from Venice thither who were then hiring a Barke to passe from Ciprus to Ioppa whence they had but fortie miles to Ierusalem they were very desirous of our company and with great earnestnesse gaue vs confidence that they would procure the said Guardian and Fryers at Ierusalem to doe vs all courtesie in their power and so perswaded vs to commit our selues to their company and protection I will adde for the instruction of others that the said Ianizare vseth to be hired for eight Aspers a day and if he take this charge of any mans safetie from an Ambassadour or any Christian Officer of account hee will easily saue a man more then his wages in gouerning his expences and keeping him from those extortions which the Turkes vse to doe vpon Christians as also from all their iniuries But I returne to the purpose We lying at Venice and while our health was yet sound and our Crownes vnspent desiring with all possible speede to finish our voyage into Turky did by good hap light vpon French consorts for our iourney namely two Franciscan Friers one Eremitan Frier and two honest young Frenchmen both Citizens of Bloys in France and one of them a Burgers sonne the other a Notarie of the Citie and lastly a Flemming or Dutchman Citizen of Emden in East Freezeland This Fleming was a fat man borne to consume victuals he had now spent in his iourny to Venice thirty pound sterling and here for his iourney to Ierusalem had already put into the ship full Hogs-heads of Wine and store of all victuals when
Riuer we did see some ten Italian miles distant On the North-side of Ierusalem I cannot say whether beyond Iordan or no we did see many Towers hauing globes of glistering mettall and that very distinctly the day being cleere also we did see the wals of a City neere the Riuer Iordan and they said that it was Ieriche Further towards the North they shewed vs from farre off a place where they say our Sauiour was baptized by Iohn And they affirme vpon experience had that the water of Iordan taken in a pitcher will very long keepe sweet and that it corrupted not though they carried it into forraigne parts This water seemed very cleere till it fell into a Lake where they say Sodome with the other Cities stood of old before they were burnt by fier from Heauen And the day being cleere we did plainely see and much maruell that the cleere and siluer streame of Iordan flowing from the North to the South when in the end it fell into the said Lake became as blacke as pitch The Friers our guides seriously protested that if any liuing thing were cast into this Lake of Sodom it could not be made to sinke whereas any heauy dead thing went presently to the bottome Also that a candle lighted cannot be thrust vnder the water by any force nor be extinguished by the water but that a candle vnlighted will presently sinke I omit for breuities sake many wondrous things they told vs of the putrifaction of the aire and other strange things with such confidence as if they would extort beliefe from vs. We had a great desire to see these places but were discouraged from that attempt by the feare of the Arabians and Moores for they inhabite all these Territories And I said before that the Arabians howsoeuer subiect to the Turk yet exercise continuall robberies with all libertie and impunitie the Turkes being not able to restraine them because they are barbarous and liue farre from their chiefe power where they can easily flye into desart places Yet these Barbarians doe strictly obserue their faith to those that are vnder their protection And all the Merchants chuseone or other of the Arabian Captaines and for a small pension procure themselues to be receiued into their protection which done these Captaines proclaime their names through all their Cities and Tents in which for the most part they liue and euer after will seuerely reuenge any wrong done to them so as they passe most safely with their goods All other men they spoile and make excursions with their leaders and sometime with their King to the sea side as farre as Ioppa and much further within Land spoyling and many times killing all they meet When we returned from Bethania we declined to the North side of Mount Oliuet and came to the ruines of 71 Bethphage where Christ sent for the Colt of an Asse and riding thereupon while the people cried Hosanna to the Highest and laid branches and leaues vnder his feet did enter into Ierusalem Vpon Friday the seuenth of Iune to wards the euening we tooke our iourney to Bethlehem Iuda and we foure lay consorts the Friars by our consent still hauing the priuiledge to be free from these expences deliuered iointly foure zechines to the Friars ours guides for our charges whereof they gaue vs no other account then they did formerly yet they onely disbursed some small rewards since we went on foot and were otherwise tied to satisfie the Friars of the Monastery vnder the name of gift or almes for our diet there but since they vsed vs friendly we would not displease them for so small a matter We went out of the City by the gate of Ioppa on the West side and so along 72 this line passed by a paued causey beyond Mount Sion and then ascended another Mountaine to Bethlehem 73 Here they shew the Garden of Vvia and the Fountaine wherein Bersheba washed her selfe which at that time was drie And from the place where the Tower of Dauid was seated vpon Mount Sion noted with the figure 6 is an easie prospect into this garden 74 Here they show the Tower of Saint Simion 75 Here is a Tree of Terebinth which beares a fruit of a blacke colour like vnto an Oliue yeelding oyle and vnder this tree they say the Virgine did rest when shee carried Christ to be presented in the Temple For which cause the Papists make their beades of this tree and esteeming them holy especially when they haue touched the rest of the monuments they carry them into Europe and giue them to their friends for great presents and holy relikes 76 Here they shew a fountaine called of the Wise-men of the East and they say that the starre did here againe appeare to them after they came from Herod 77 Here they shew the ruines of a house wherein they say that the Prophet Habakcuk dwelt and was thence carried by the haires of the head to feede Daniel in the Lions Den at Babylon 78 Here they shew the Fountaine of the Prophet Elias and the stone vpon which he vsed to sleepe vpon which they shew the print of his head shoulders and other members which prints haue some similitude but no iust proportion of those members From a rock neere this place we did see at once both Ierusalem Bethlehem 79 Here they shew a Tower and ruines where the Patriarck Iacob dwelt and here againe we did see both Cities 80 Here is an old stately Sepulcher in which they say Rachel Iacobs wife was buried It is almost of a round forme built of stone and lime foure foote high hauing the like couer aboue it borne vp by foure pillars There be two other Sepulchers but nothing so faire and all three are inclosed within one wall of stone 81 Here they shew the Fountaine for the water whereof Dauid thirsted yet would not drinke it when it was brought with the hazard of blood 82 Here the City Bethlehem is seated which then was but a Village hauing no beauty but the Monastery 83 Here the Monastery is seated large in circuit and built rather after the manner of Europe then Asia which the Italian Franciscan Friars called Latines and more commonly Franckes doe possesse but other Christian sects haue their Altars in the Church by speciall priuiledge and the Turkes themselues comming hither in Pilgrimage doe lie within the Church for the Turkes haue a peculiar way by a doore of Iron made of old and kept by them to enter into the Chappell where they say Christ was borne This Monastery seemes strong enough against the sudden attempts of the Turkes or Arabians yet the Friars in that case dare not resist them liuing onely in safety by the reuerence which that people beares to this place and by the opinion of their owne pouerty The greater Church is large and high in which I numbred twenty foure pillars but my consorts being more curious obserued that the pillars were set in foure rankes euery ranke
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
Sea Euxinus which they say is called the Black Sea of many shipwracks therein happening And this Tower is sixteene miles distant from the Citie B Here is a marble pillar erected vpon a Rocke compassed with the sea which they call the pillar of Pompey and therein many passengers for their memory vse to ingraue their names And here are innumerable flocks of Sea foule and of many kindes wherewith hee that is skilfull to shoote in his Peece may abundantly furnish himselfe C Here is the Euxine or black Sea D E Here lie two strong Castles one in Europe the other in Asia some eight miles distant from the Citie built to defend the Hauen from the assault of the enemies by Sea on that side and the Garrison there kept searcheth the ships comming from the Citie that no slaues or prohibited goods be carried therein neither can any ship passe vnsearched except they will hazard to be sunck Finally the great Turke sends his chiefe prisoners to be kept in these strong Castles F Here great ships vse to cast anchor at their first arriuall till they bee vnloaded and here againe they ride at anchor to expect windes when they are loaded and ready to depart G All along this banke and the opposite side for a large circuit the greatest ships vse to lie when they are vnloaded and they lie most safely and close by the shore fastaned by cables on land H Here lyes the old Citie built by the Genoesi of Italy called Gallata by the Turks and Perah by the Greekes of the situation beyond the Channell It is now accounted a Suburbe of Constantinople and is seated vpon a most pleasant hill wherein for the most part liue Christians aswell subiects as others and the Ambassadours of England France and Venice only the Emperours Ambassadour must lye within the Citie more like a pledge of peace then a free Ambassadour and very few Turkes liue here mingled with the Christians The situation of Gallata as I said is most pleasant Formerly the Ambassadours of England were wont to dwell vpon the Sea-shore in the Plaine and their Pallace is not farre distant from this note K but Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour at this time dwelt vpon the top of the hill in a faire house within a large field and pleasant gardens compassed with a wall And all Gallata is full of very pleasant gardens and compassed with pleasant fields whereof some towards the land furthest from the Sea are vsed for the buriall of Turkes I Here a little Creeke of the Sea is compassed with walles and buildings within which the Gallies of the great Turke lie in safety and there be fit places to build Gallies and store-houses for all things thereunto belonging K Here is the chiefe passage ouer the water called Tapano where a man may passe for two aspers All along this Sea banke lye very many great Gunnes as vpon the Tower Wharfe at London and here the fishers land and sell their fish L Here the Megarenses of old built Chalcedon a Citie of Bethinia famous for a Councell held there by the ruine of which Citie Constantinople increased At this day there is onely a Village or rather some scattered houses and it is commonly called Scuteri or Scudretta M Here the Great Turks mother then liuing had her priuate Garden N Hither the Heyre of the Empire is sent as it were into banishment vnder pretence to gouerne the Prouince Bursia assoone as he is circumcised and so being made a Musulman that is a circumcised Turke first begins to draw the eyes of the Army and Ianizares towards him O Here is the Pallace or Court of the great Turke called by the Italians Seraglio and vulgarly Saray and it was of old the Monastery of Saint Sophia Mahomet the second first compassed it with walls and the buildings together with the large and pleasant gardens are some three or foure miles in circuit I entered the outward Court thereof by a stately Gate kept by many Ianizares called Capigi of that office The court yard was large all compassed with building of free stone two stories high with a low and almost plaine roofe tyled and without windowes after the maner of the building of Italy and round about the inside it was cast out with arches like the building of Cloisters vnder which they walked drie in the greatest raine And in this Court is a large pulpit or open roome where the great Turke vieth to shew himselfe to the Ianizares to satisfie them when they make any mutiny P Here is a banqueting house vulgarly called Chuske the prospect whereof is more pleasant then can be expressed beholding foure Seaes at once and the land on all sides beyond them Q Here is the Church of Saint Sophia opposite to the Court Gate of old built by the Christians after the forme of Salomons Temple and indowed with the annuall rent of three hundred thousand Zechines now made a Mosche or Mahometan Church And howsoeuer the Turks cannot indure that vnwashed Christians so called by them because they vse not Baths so continually as they doe should enter their Mosches or passe ouer their Sepulchers yet my self entered this Church with the Ianizare my guid trusting to his power to defend me yet he willed me first to put of my shooes and according to the Turkes custome to leaue them in the porch where they were late till we returned The Church is of a round forme and built of bricke and supported with faire pillars and paued with Marble ouer which the Turks layed Mats to kneele and prostrate themselues more commodiously vpon them The roofe is beautified with pictures of that rich painting which the Italians call alla Mosaica shining like enameled work which now by antiquity were much decaied and in some parts defaced Round about the Church hung many Lampes which they vse to burrie in the time of their Lent called Beyram and euery weeke vpon Thursday in the euening and Friday all day which they keepe holy after their fashion for their Sabbath day Round about the vpper part of the Church are large and most faire Galleries And here I did see two Nuts of Marble of huge bignesse and great beauty Moreouer I did see the great Turke when he entered this Church and howsoeuer it lie close to the Gate of his Pallace yet he came riding vpon a horse richly trapped with many troopes of his chiefe horsemen standing in ranke within the Courts of his Pallace and from the Court Gate to the Church dore betweene which troopes on both sides he passed as betweene walles of brasse with great pompe And when a Chaus or Pensioner being on horseback did see mee close by the Emperours side hee rushed vpon me to strike me with his mace saying What doth this Christian dog so neere the person of our great Lord But the Ianizare whom our Ambassadour had giuen me for a Guide and Protector repelled him from doing mee any wrong and many Ianizares
very deepe and couers all the ground for nine moneths of the yeere yet notwithstanding the vallyes and discents of them lying open to the South Sunne and taking life from the heate thereof are very fruitfull Lastly in generall through all Germany the aboundance of Lakes and Mountaines doth increase this cold of the aire in diuers places except they bee something defended from the same by Woods adioyning and in some places as namely at Heidelberg where the Cities are almost fully inclosed with Mountaines the cold windes in Winter doe more ragingly breake in on that side the Mountaines lve open the more they are restrained and resisted on the other sides As likewise by accident the Sunne beames in Summer reflecting against those Mountaines though in a cold Region are so violently hot as the Cities at that time are much annoyed with multitudes of flies which not onely vex men but so trouble the horses as they are forced to couer them with cloathes from this annoyance The foresaid intemperatenesse of cold pressing great part of Germany in stead of fier they vse hot stoues for remedie thereof which are certaine chambers or roomes hauing an earthen ouen cast into them which may be heated with a little quantity of wood so as it will make them hot who come out of the cold and incline them to swetting if they come neare the ouen And as well to keepe out cold as to retaine the heate they keepe the dores and windowes closely shut so as they vsing not only to receiue Gentlemen into these stoues but euen to permit rammish clownes to stand by the ouen till their wet clothes be dried and themselues sweat yea to indure their little children to sit vpon their close stooles and ease themselues within this close and hot stoue let the Reader pardon my rude speech as I bore with the bad smell it must needes be that these ill smelles neuer purged by the admitting of any fresh ayre should dull the braine and almost choke the spirits of those who frequent the stoues When my selfe first entred into one of them this vnwonted heate did so winde about my legges as if a Snake had twined about them and made my head dull and heauy but after I had vsed them custome became another nature for I neuer inioyed my health in any place better then there This intemperatenesse of cold is the cause that a Lawrell tree is hardly to be found in Germany and that in the lower parts towards Lubeck they keepe Rosemary within the house in eartherne pitchers filled with earth as other where men preserue the choice fruits of the South yet can they not keep this Rosemary when it prospers best aboue three yeeres from withering For this cause also they haue no Italian fruits in Germany onely at Prage I did see some few Orange trees preserued in pitchers full of earth by setting them fourth in the heate of the Summer dayes and after drawing them into houses where they were cherished by artificiall heate And the like fruits I did see at Heidelberg in the Pallatine Electors Garden growing open in Summer but in winter a house being built ouer them with an ouen like a stoue and yet these trees yeelded not any ripe fruit when as at London and many parts of England more Northerly then those parts of Germany we haue Muske Mellons and plenty of Abricots growing in Gardens which for quantitie and goodnesse are not much inferiour to the fruits in Italy Also this cold is the cause that in Misen where they plant vines and in the highest parts of Germany on this side the Alpes where they make wine thereof the Grapes and the wine are exceeding sower Onely the wines vpon Neccar and those vpon the West side of the Rheine are in their kinds good but harsh and of little heate in the stomacke The cherries called Zawerkersen are reasonable great but sower And the other kind called Wildkersen is little and sweete but hath a blacke iuyce vnpleasing to the taste They haue little store of peares or apples and those they haue are little and of small pleasantnesse onely the Muskadel peare is very delicate especially when it is dried And the Germans make good vse of those fruits they haue not so much for pleasure when they are greene as for furnishing the table in Winter For their Peares and Apples they pare them and drie them vnder the Ouen of the stoue and then dresse them very fauorly with Cynamon and Butter In like sort they long preserue their cheries drie without sugar and the greater part of their cheries they boyle in a brasse cauldron full of holes in the bottome out of which the iuce falles into another vessell which being kept growes like marmalade and makes a delicate sauce for all roasted meates and will last very long as they vse it The Italians haue a Prouerb Dio da i panni secondo i freddi that is God giues cloathes according to the colds as to the cold Muscouites hee hath giuen futtes to the English wooll for cloth to the French diuers light stuffes and to Southerlie people stoore of silkes that all Nations abounding in some things and wanting others might be taught that they haue neede of one anothers helpe and so be stirred vp to mutuall loue which God hath thus planted betweene mankind by mutuall trafficke For this must be vnderstood not onely of clother but also of all other things necessary for human life Germany doth abound with many things necessary for life and many commodities to be transported For great Cities and Cities within land of which Germany hath store those argue plenty of commodities to bee transported and these plenty of foode to nourish much people And since that paradox of Cicero is most true that small causes of expence rather then great reuenues make men rich surely by this reason the Germans should bee most rich They neuer play at Dice seldome at Cardes and that for small wagers They seldome feast and sparingly needing no sumptuary Law es to restraine the number or costlinesse of dishes or sawces They are apparrelled with homely stuffes and weare their clothes to the vttermost of their lasting their houshold stuffe is poore in gifts they are most sparing and onely are prodigall in expences for drinking with which a man may sooner burst then spend his patrimony They haue Corne sufficient for their vse and the Merchants in the Cities vpon the sea coast export Corne into Spaine aswell of their owne as especially of that they buy at Dantzke They want not Cattle of all kinds but they are commonlie leane and little so are their horses many in number and little in stature onely in Bohemia they haue goodly horses or at least great and heauy like those in Freeseland but I remember not to haue seene much cattle or great heards thereof in the fields of any Towne the reason whereof may be gathered out of the following discourse of the Germans
to that of fifteene and a halfe and the Latitude extends also foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty foure degrees to that of fifty eight degrees In the Geographicall description I will follow Camden as formerly This famous Iland in the Virginian Sea is by olde Writers called Ierna Inuerna and Iris by the old Inhabitants Eryn by the old Britans Yuerdhen by the English at this day Ireland and by the Irish Bardes at this day Banno in which sence of the Irish word Auicen cals it the holy Iland besides Plutarch of old called it Ogigia and after him Isidore named it Scotia This Ireland according to the Inhabitants is deuided into two parts the wild Irish and the English Irish liuing in the English Pale but of the old Kingdomes fiue in number it is deuided into fiue parts 1 The fast is by the Irish called Mowne by the English Mounster and is subdeuided into sixe Counties of Kerry of Limricke of Corcke of Tipperary of the Holy Crosse and of Waterford to which the seuenth County of Desmond is now added The Gangaui a Scithean people comming into Spaine and from thence into Ireland inhabited the County of Kerry full of woody mountaines in which the Earles of Desmond had the dignity of Palatines hauing their House in Trailes a little Towne now almost vninhabited Not farre thence lies Saint Mary Wic vulgarly called Smerwicke where the Lord Arthur Gray being Lord Deputy happily ouerthrew the aiding troopes sent to the Earle of Desmond from the Pope and the King of Spaine On the South side of Kerry lies the County of Desmond of old inhabited by three kinds of people the Lucens being Spaniards the Velabri so called of their seate vpon the Sea waters or Marshes and the Iberns called the vpper Irish inhabiting about Beerehauen Baltimore two Hauens well known by the plentiful fishing of Herrings and the late inuasion of the Spaniards in the yeere 1601. Next to these is the County of Mec Carti More of Irish race whom as enemy to the Fitz-geralds Queene Elizabeth made Earle of Glencar in the yeere 1556. For of the Fitz-Geralds of the Family of the Earles of Kildare the Earles of Desmond descended who being by birth English and created Earles by King Edward the third became hatefull Rebels in our time The third County hath the name of the City Corke consisting almost all of one long streete but well knowne and frequented which is so compassed with rebellious neighbours as they of old not daring to marry their Daughters to them the custome grew and continues to this day that by mutuall marriages one with another all the Citizens are of kinne in some degree of Affinity Not farre thence is Yoghall hauing a safe Hauen neere which the Vicounts of Barry of English race are seated In the fourth County of Tipperary nothing is memorable but that it is a Palatinate The little Towne Holy-Cresse in the County of the same name hath many great priuiledges The sixth County hath the name of the City Limerike the seate of a Bishop wherein is a strong Castle built by King Iohn Not farre thence is Awue the seate of a Bishop and the lower Ossery giuing the title of an Earle to the Butlers and the Towne Thurles giuing them also the title of Vicount And there is Cassiles now a poore City but the seate of an Archbishoppe The seuenth County hath the name of the City Watersord which the Irish call Porthlargi of the commodious Hauen a rich and well inhabited City esteemed the second to Dublyn And because the Inhabitants long faithfully helped the English in subduing Ireland our Kings gaue them excessiue priuiledges but they rashly failing in their obedience at King Iames his comming to the Crowne could not in long time obtaine the confirmation of their old Charter 2 Lemster the second part of Ireland is fertile and yeelds plenty of Corne and hath a most temperate mild Aire being deuided into ten Counties of Catterlogh Kilkenny Wexford Dublyn Kildare the Kings County the Queenes County the Counties of Longford of Fernes and of Wickle The Cariondi of old inhabited Caterlogh or Carloo County and they also inhabited great part of Kilkenny of vpper Ossery and of Ormond which haue nothing memorable but the Earles of Ormond of the great Family of the Butlers inferiour to no Earle in Ireland not to speake of Fitz pairic Baron of vpper Ossery It is redicnious which some Irish who will be beleeued as men of credit report of Men in these parts yeerely turned into Wolues except the aboundance of melancholy humour transports them to imagine that they are so transformed Kilkenny giuing name to the second County is a pleasant Towne the chiefe of the Townes within Land memorable for the ciuility of the Inhabitants for the Husbandmens labour and the pleasant Orchards I passe ouer the walled Towne Thomastowne and the ancient City Rheban now a poore Village with a Castle yet of old giuing the title of Barronet I passe ouer the Village and strong Castle of Leighlin with the Countrey adioyning vsurped by the Sept of the Cauanaghs now surnamed Omores Also I omit Kosse of old a large City at this day of no moment The third County of Wexford called by the Irish County Reogh was of old inhabited by the Menappij where at the Towne called Banna the English made their first discent into Ireland and vpon that Coast are very dangerous flats in the Sea which they vulgarly call Grounds The City Weshford Weisford or Wexford is the cheefe of the County not great but deseruing praise for their faithfulnesse towards the English and frequently inhabited by Men of English race The Cauci a Seabordering Nation of Germany and the Menappij aforesaid of old inhabited the territories now possessed by the Omores and Ohirns Also they inhabited the fourth County of Kildare a fruitfull soyle hauing the cheese Towne of the same name greatlie honoured in the infancie of the Church by Saint Briget King Edward the second created the Giralds Earles of Kildare The Eblani of old inhabited the territory of Dublin the fifth County hauing a fertile soyle and rich pastures but wanting wood so as they burne Turffe or Seacoale brought out of England The City Dublyn called Diuelin by the English and Balacleigh as seated vpon hurdles by the Irish is the cheefe City of the Kingdome and seate of Iustice fairely built frequently inhabited and adorned with a strong Castle fifteene Churches an Episcopall seate and a faire Colledge an happy foundation of an Vniuersity laid in our Age and indowed with many priuiledges but the Hauen is barred and made lesse commodious by those hils of sands The adioyning Promontory Hoth-head giues the title of a Barron to the Family of Saint Laurence And towards the North lies Fengall a little Territory as it were the Garner of the Kingdome which is enuironed by the Sea and great Riuers and this situation hath defended it from the incursion of Rebels in former