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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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Rimini but our desire to see the old famous City of Rauenna made vs goe out of the way twenty miles to the said City through a dirty way and fruitfull fields of corne and each of vs paid seuen poli for his horse Rauenna is a most ancient City whose wals the Emperour Tiberius either built or repaired Here of old was the harbour for the nauie of Rome Here the Emperour of the East after the Westerne Empire was extinguished made the seat of his Exarch After by the conspiring of the Popes and the French Kings Pipin and Charles the Great all the Cities of this Exarchate fell to the Popes share Yet others write that the French King onely added Tuseany to the Patrimony of Saint Peter and it is most certaine that these Cities for long time did not acknowledge the Pope for their Lord till at last the Popes in like sort conspiring with the French Kings Lewis the twelfth and Charles the eight had their aide to subdue these Cities and then Pope Iulius the second by terrour of his excommunications extorted Rauenna and other Cities from the Venetians and casting out the Lords of other Cities the Popes from that time being very skilfull to fish in troubled waters haue gotten possession of all the territories from the confines of the State of Venice to Ferraria Bologna and along the Coast of the Adriaticke sea to Ancona It is said that Rauenna stands not now in his old place for at this time it is some two miles distant from the Sea but the soyle thereof is most fruitfull in corne and vnfit to yeeld wine and it is rich in pastures The houses are built of bricke and flint stone aud are so old as they seeme ready to fall This City hauing been often taken by enemies hath lost all the ornaments which it had from so many Exarches and Kings of Lombardy and from the Bishops thereof who were so powerfull as they stroue long time for primacy with the Bishops of Rome On the North-side of the City lies the sea but distant from the same and without the wals is a wood of Pine-trees and not farre thence lie the ruines of a very old and most faire Church Saint Mary the Round whose roofe was admirable being of one stone and in the same Church was the rich sepulcher of the Lombard King Theodoricus which the souldiers pulled downe with the Church to get the mettals thereof On the East-side the sea lies some two Italian miles distant where is the Hauen for ships so much spoken of in the Roman Histories where the nauy of Rome did winter yet is it now neither conuenient nor secure for ships neither indeed can any but very small boates come vp to the Towne On the South-side without the golden gate built by the Emperour Claudius lie the ruines of a stately Pallace built by the same King Theodoricus and likewise of the City Caesaria In a Chappell of the Cathedrall Church is a most rich Font and they report that many Kingly monuments were of old in this Church In the market place lies a vessell of Porphry a Kingly monument which the Citizens in the yeere 1564. brought from the foresaid sepulcher of King Theodoricus in the ruined Church of Saint Mary neere the gate on the North-side In the monastery of Saint Francis is the sepulcher of the Poet Dante 's with these verses in Latin Exigua tumuli Dante 's hic sorte iacebas Squallenti nullis cognite penè situ At nune marmoreo subnix us conder is Area Omnibus cultu splendidiore nites Nimiram Bembus Musis incensus Hetruscis Hoc tibi quem inpri nis hae coluere dedit In a poore Tombe Dante 's thou didst lie here The place obscure made thee almost vnknowne But now a marble chest thy bones doth beare And thou appearest fresh as flower new blowne Bembus with Tuseane Muses rauished Gaue this to thee whom they most cherished In the yeere 1483. the sixth of the Kalends of Iune Bernar Bembus the Praetor laid this at his owne charge The strength merit and crowne of the Friars minorite couents S. V. F. and these verses were added in Latin Iura Monarchtae superos Phlegetonta lacusque Lustrando cecini voluerunt fata quousque Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris Actoremque suum petijt faelicior Astris Hic claudor Dante 's patrus extorris ab oris Quem genuit parui Fiorentia Mater Amoris The Monarchies Gods Lakes and Phlegeton I searcht and sung while my Fates did permit But since my better part to heauen is gone And with his Maker mongst the starres doth sit I Dante 's a poore banishd man lie here Whom Florence Mother of sweet Loue did beare In the Church of Saint Vitalis the pauement is of marble and the wals all couered with precious stones of many kinds but vnpolished as they were taken out of the mines shew great antiquity and magnificence and doe not a little delight the beholder Also there be certaine Images grauen in some stones I know not whether by nature or strange art which are to be admired Among which I remember one stone had the picture of a Turke in all the apparell they weare another the Image of a Monke in his habit another of a Priest with his bald head and two other the one most like the foot the other the leg of a man There is an Altar of Alablaster and the Church is of a round forme whose roofe is painted A la Mosaica like engrauing of which kind of painting rare and much esteemed in Italy I haue spoken before in the description of Venice In this Church is a fountaine of water which by vertue giuen it from this Saint as they say being thrice drunke off giues remedy to the head-ach Another Church of Saint Geruasiue is so ioined to this of Saint Vitalis as it seemed to mee but a Chappell thereof and in this Church also is the Saint buried of whom it hath the name and there be also the sepulchers of Placidiae sister to the Emperour Honorius and of her sonnes and daughters and of her nurse with her husband Here wee paid each man three poli for his supper From Rauenna we rode thirtie fiue miles to the old Citie Rimini namely ten to Sauio fiue to Ceruia fiue to Cesnadigo and fifteene to Rimini through wild fenny fields and a great Wood of Pine-trees and by the sandie shoare of the sea betweene which and the Apenine Mountaines diuiding Italy by the length the Valley was so narrow as we continually did see the snowy toppes of those Mountaines towards the South and for the most part did see together with them the Adriatique sea towards the North. In the foresaid Castle Cesnadigo the Post-master would haue forced vs to take new post-horses if he that let our horses to vs had not pleased him by the paiment of some money for the post-horses are knowne by a list of furre they weare in their
outside of the earth Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line which diuideth the World into equall parts And if Palestina were iust vnder that line yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian should be the middest of the World as well as Palestina They answered that Dauid saith in his Psalmes In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation To which I replied that the middest of the World was there taken for the face and in the sight of the World so as none should be able to denie it Whereupon they grew angry and said that the Scripture must be beleeued in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers It had been vaine to dispute further with them there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem And to say truth if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Venetians they haue few or no learned men For my part I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke but onely one called Milesius who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople And these Greekes as in this point so in all other follow the literall sense of the Scriptures For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament And whereas Saint Paul saith Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife c. they so interpret it as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage yet he may neuer marry againe The Sorians are so called of Syria in which Prouince they liue hauing their owne Patriarke neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter that they say rather belongeth to them in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch They agreed with the Greekes in many things they denie Purgatorie they fast foure Lents in the yeere they permit their Priests to marrie they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice and otherwise speake their owne language which I take to be the Arabian tongue In Ierusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉 and of Nicodemus and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke noted with the figure 37. The Costi are Egyptians dwelling about Numidia They retaine the heresie of Arrius and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers who are to be blamed if it be not true These in the Church keepe the Chappell wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie where they say the scull of Adam lies and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk and they are subiect to their King Preti-Giani They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip and themselues are baptized not onely with water but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist I baptise you with water but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision like wary Notaries who fearing to faile in their assurance neuer think they haue vsed words enough yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes and thinke their Altars defiled if they doe but looke vpon them They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children and they as all the rest excepting the Franks that is Papists giue it in both kindes When they sing Masse or Psalmes they leape and clap their hands and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions They vse their owne that is the Egyptian tongue in Diuine seruice and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time do greatly maccrate their bodies In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta which they inhabite and they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon whom they reuerence as another Pope They disagree with the Greekes and rather apply themselues to the Franks yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth but fast that day They keepe the Roman Lent but more strictly abstaining from Fish and very Oyle which they vse for butter but vpon some Holy-dayes in that time they eate flesh They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament as the Papists doe but with them they lift vp the bread yea and the Cup also to be worshipped Of old with reseruation of customes they ioyned themselues to the Roman Church but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies they quickly fell from him The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads but in the forme of a Crosse and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long in two tusts placing therein great Religion In the Church they keepe the pillar where they say the garments of Christ were parted and lots cast vpon his Coate and in the Citie the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded and the house of the High Priest Caiphas vpon Mount Sion The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius who infected the Persians Tartars and Iewes with his heresie They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes and that to children as well as men They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice and otherwise the Arabian In the Church they keepe the prison wherein they say Christ was shut vp The Maronites inhabite Phanicia and the Mount of Libanus and they vse the Syrian tongue in their diuine seruice namely as I thinke the Arabian And they said that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem Some make mention of a tenth sect namely the lacobites named of Iacob Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexandria who liue mingled among Turkes Tartares inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike partly the Prouinces of India I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there neither yet to haue heard any mention of them yet others write that they admit circumcision as well as baptisme and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron in some conspicuous part of their body that they confesse their sinnes onely to God not to their Priests that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ that in token of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger and giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper in both kinds yea to Infants as well as to those who are of full age I cannot omit an old Spanish woman who had for many yeeres liued there locked vp in the Temple lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher and hauing her diet by the Friars almes Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres and in that time had alwaies
came to Baltring subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner and three for horse-meat Next morning after a miles riding we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut through woody Mountaines and corne vallies which were so boggey as many times wee had almost stuck fast The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke of the family of Inspruck and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country to Rauenspurg a free Citie seated betweene Mountaines whereof one hangeth ouer it and the Riuer Ach runneth by it in a narrow bed so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly doe many times ouerflow to the great damage of the Countrey and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City In these parts bee many Almes houses for those that are infected with Leprosie who may not come neere the Passengers but doe beg of them a farre off with the sound of a woodden clapper Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat twelue Batzen and a halfe The first day of May we rode three miles one through a Wood the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures and Hils planted with Vines to the City Lindaw By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge which doth often ouerflow the plaine doing great hurt and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count for each man We were now come out of Sueuia and had rode two miles in Algoia and on the left hand towards the South we discouered the mouth of the Alpes which in this place is called Spliego Lindaw is a free City of the Empire which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166 and it is almost an I and seated in the lake called Acronius vulgarly Bodensea being ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side where it hath onely one gate called Burg-thore by which wee entred On this side the fields are very pleasant and planted with Vines and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier so old as they say it was erected by the Heathen before any Christians were Hence the City lies in length towards the South West partly on the West and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea that is vpper sea close by the houses of the Citizens where they descend by staires to take water Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines which were then couered with snow and at the foot of the highest Mountaines there is a Tower which they report to be built by Hannibal neere which is the place famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal On this side the City they shew a stone whence they say the Saint called Aurelia passed the lake woe to them that beleeue at one step The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Mountaines whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not Both these runne into the Lake and the Rheine till it come out of the Lake againe loseth the name There is but one Church in the City besides a ruined Monastery The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat and mingle it with wine not out of the Lake but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life and twenty Senators gouerne the City Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria is a bath of great vertue and a Monastery built by Otho the second with great priuiledges vpon a vow hee made being in great danger when he passed the Lake and there murtherers haue a sanctuary There is much salt made in the City and carried thence to other parts Heere I paied each meale six Batzen They drinke altogether wine whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers the new for nine of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts By ill fortune I was here forced to exhibite a Petition to the Consuls both in the Dutch and Latine tongues the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition The forme whereof in English was this after the Dutch fashion euer tedious in their stiles or titles HOnourable prouident good wise Lords and Consuls I humbly desire you to respect my cause as of a stranger far from his friends and bereaued of his money by deceit Thus my case standeth Being at Nurnberg and purposing thence to goe to Bazell there to study I dealt with a Merchant that hee would exchange my money thither retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse So as I finding him acknowledged by the Carriers of this City then being there and by many Nurnbergers for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens to be paid mee heere in French Crownes and wee comming in company together to this Towne when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens which I had kept for the expence of my iourney vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers for twenty seuen of which French Crownes and thirty six Creitzers I tooke his bill at Nurnberg but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word Heere I expected his payment eight dayes and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer he is stoln out of the Towne and his brothers giue me no hope of payment being not so noble as to ponder the case rightly or to haue any due fecling of my state Being in this case not able without money to goe on my iourney or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere all my hope is in your iust helpe which failing me I know not what course to take Therefore I desire earnestly of your worthinesse to assist mee and giue expedition to my cause that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse My debtor while he liued in the publike Inne with mee vsed mee with all curtesie but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead and so dispairing of means to pay me he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake being a sanctuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune it afflicted me beyond measure that I should bee forced to spend the time dearer to mee then gold in following the Law at Lindaw which I hoped to imploy in
my studies at Bazell Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe I hyred a horse and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery But this Dutch Gentleman finding mee to speake Latine readily tooke mee for some Schoole-master and despised both mee and my cause so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad hauing obtained no fauor But a better starre shined there on mee for the Consuls that day had determined in Court that my debtors horses should bee sought out and deliuered to mee and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee though I pressed them to receiue it Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away paid me my mony and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion hauing found by many testimonies I cannot sufficiently commend and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge Vpon the Lake Acrontiis vulgarly Boden-sea that is vpper sea I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz and paied for my passage three Batzen Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea vulgarly Vnden-sea this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke lengthwise and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch Arch-Duke of Austria whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City which is famous by a Councell held there whither Iohn Hus was called with the Emperours safe conduct in the yeere 1414 yet was there condemned of Heresie and burned On the West side of the Citie within the walles in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned and without the walles on the left hand as you goeout is a faire meadow and therein a stone vpon the high-way to which he was bound being burnt the same yeere 1414 in the Month of Iuly Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September the yeere following both their ashes being cast into the Lake lest the Bohemians should carry them away The Senate-house in which this Councell was held is of no beauty When the Emperour Charles the fifth besieged this Citie it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia and brother to Charles who made the Citizens peace for them Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale and for wine betweene meales eight creitzers the measure Hence I went by boat two miles to Styga and paied for my passage two Batzen We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake and taking his name therein lost doth runne in all narrow bed and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe wee entred the lower Lake called Vnden-sea Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow of the riches the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands as the Monkes being sent to Rome vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson so as any such beast dieth presently in it and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke for which as they say the Venetians haue offered much money VVriters report that of old a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder to looke into a huge vessell of wine and being ouercome with the vapour fell into the same with a great bunch of keyes in his hand and that shortly after this wine was so famous as Princes and Nobles and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh till the vessell being empty the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order yet the Dutch in my company reported that this happened in a Monastery not farre off called Salmanschwell By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg On the East-side out of the walles of Styga lye woody fields on the West-side the Iland Horue and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne In this City the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace who is Lord of the two Ilands Meinow and Reichnow and hath very large possessions in these parts mingled with the territories of other Lords And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen and paied for my passage two Batzen The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake and when it comes or rather violently breakes out of it then resumes it againe This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland Not farre from this City on the South side in the riuer Rheine is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here and to carry their goods by carts to the City and from the City to imbarke them againe which yeeldeth great profit to the City by taxations imposed on the goods which must necessarily be landed there On both sides the riuer as we came to this City are pleasant hils planted with vines faire pastures with sweet groues The City is round in forme and is washed with the Rheine on the South side and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne is a pleasant greene where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree giuing so large a shade as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber boarded on the floore with windowes on the sides and a cocke which being turned water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together there being sixe tables for that purpose On the same South side is a Monastery with walles and gates like a little City It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe or Schiff that is a ship and Hausse that is a house as of a fold for 〈◊〉 or roade for shippes Here I paid for each meale six batzen For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen you haue made me your Seruant for euer I remember the houres of our conuersation which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger with gentlenes if not proper to your selfe yet proper
cloth as would couer the same with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth Others tell a fable of like credit that it was once sold to a Merchant whom they scoffed when he came to take possession bidding him take away the earth he had bought The great reuenew exacted in this straight hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables And in truth if either the King of Suetia or the free City of Lubeck had the possession of this Iland and were fortified therein they might easily command this passage and extort what they list from the Merchants passing that way and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince whose Territories lie out of the Sound the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles But lest I should bee as foolish as they I returne to my purpose And first giue me leaue to mention that there lies a City not farre distant in the Kingdome of Norway which is called London as the chiefe City in England is called Vpon Sunday the twenty six of August in the yeere 1593 I tooke an English ship heere to saile into Prussen hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings thirty egges for six shillings and some few pots of Spanish wine for forty two Danish shillings with some other small prouisions From Elsinure to Dantzk they reckon eighty English miles Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes and yet hauing both a forewind which sometimes happens vpon the shoare as marriners know For of these two contrary winds the one is airy which holds when you are gone into the maine the other is from the earth and in short time faileth at the very shore which euent we presently saw with our eyes one of the ships going fairely on his course the other casting anchor The English ship in which I went was called the Antilope being of one hundred fifty tuns or thereabouts and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof who shewed me manifest signes where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning the first whereof passed into the pumpe and rent it but comming to the water was by the nature thereof carried vpward and comming out at the top of the pumpe made two little holes then passing to the great Mast rent it and made a great crany therein from the hatches to the top The second struck the top of the said maine Mast and againe rent it in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile till wee might come to Dantzk where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea some fiue miles with a scant winde and cast anchor neere Copenhagen With a faire winde and good gaile Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre On Monday early wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden On Tuesday early wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places and there sounding with our plummet sand of Amber stuck thereunto The same day by noone wee sayled the length of that Iland and vpon Wednesday by three of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled thirty miles we passed by Rose-head being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning hauing sayled eighteene miles we came to a Land called Rettell and entered the Port of Meluin where the water was scarce two fadome deepe our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe the entry was narrow and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales sands and the weather being calme we were drawne in by a boate with Oares In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in by the casting and weighing of Anchors with great labour and flow riddance of way From Kettell we passed ten miles and came to the Port of Meluin Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer on the right hand towards the West we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore where it hath a hauen but not so safe as this and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg the Court of the Duke of Prussen The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe but our ship passed through the mud like a plow vpon land This port is a little distant from the City on the North-side where we entered by a faire large street called Martgasse lying thence towards the South Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg Master of the said order part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires with title of Duke vnder homage to the King of Poland with condition that for want of heire male it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector for which cause they giue him many customes and permit his Officer to abide in the City ard receiue the same Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants hauing their staple in the same They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale and he that paies for two meales in the day may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales at pleasure without paying any thing The same euening we landed at Meluin our Marriners staying in the ship entertained other English Marriners comming aboard and according to their custome giuing them a peece when they departed it happened that the peece being of iron brake and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle and rent all the prow of the ship The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion so that how so euer they excused in by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue yet I thought them not free of blame in this point because our Merchants further distant in Asia and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place Italy excepted that our Merchants wanted Preachers where they held their staples From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke and we being onely two conforts paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach In the morning we went sixe miles and by the way passed the Riuer Begot comming out of the riuer Vistula where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields and rich medowes and pastures in a Countrey abounding with
Citie are seated vpon Mountaines yet lower then any other part of the Citie Vpon the higher part of Mount Sion on the same South side towards the West lie many ruines of houses and it is most certaine that the Tower of Dauid and other famous houses there which are now without the walles were of old inclosed within them and that the City extended somewhat further towards the South then now it doth Yet the Hill of Sion is so compassed with knowne Vallies and those Vallies with high Mountaines as this extent could not be great Ierusalem was of old called Moria where they write that Adam was created of red earth is seated vpon Mount Moriah vpon the top wherof towards the North-west is Mount Caluery where they say that Abraham was ready to sacrifice his sonne Isaac and where without doubt our Sauiour Christ suffered and in the lowest part of this Mountaine the Temple of Salomon was seated The Citie was after called Salem and thirdly Iebus and fourthly Ierusalem and at this day the Turkes haue named it 〈◊〉 It is compassed with stately walles the like whereof I did neuer see of red and blacke stone more then an Elle long and about halfe an Elle broad I call them stately for the antiquitie wherein for the most part they much excell the Roman walles I numbred seuen Gates The first of Damasco of old called the Gate of Ephraim on the North side The second of Saint Stephen on the East side which of old had the name of the beasts for sacrifice brought in that way The third the golden Gate also on the East side which at this day is shut and bricked vp The fourth the Gate of presentation on the South-side leading into the Temple of Salomon but at this day shutvp The fifth Sterquilinea also on the South side so called of the filth there carried out The sixth the Gate of Syon also on the South side neare that part of Mount Syon which at this day is without the walles but this Gate hath been newly built The seuenth of Ioppa towards the West also newly built In generall the Gates are nothing lesse then fortified only as it were to terrifie the Christians who enter at the Gate of Ioppa they haue braggingly fortified the same and planted great Ordinance vpon it And howsoeuer the Citie seemes strong enough against sudden tumults yet it is no way able to hold out against a Christian Army well furnished neither doe the Turkes trust to their Forts but to their forces in field The houses here and in all parts of Asia that I haue seene are built of Flint stone very low onely one storie high the top whereof is plaine and plastered and hath battlements almost a yard high and in the day time they hide themselues within the chamber vnder this plastered floare from the Sunne and after Sunne-set walke eate and sleepe vpon the said plastred floare where as they walke each one may see their neighbours sleeping in bed or eating at table But as in the heate of the day they can scarce indure to weare linnen hose so when the Syren or dew falls at night they keepe themselues within dores till it be dried vp or else fling some garment ouer their heads And with this dew of the night all the fields are moistened the falling of raine being very rare in these parts towards the Equinoctiall line and in this place particularly happening onely about the month of October about which time it falles sometimes with great force by whole pales full The houses neare the Temple of Salomon are built with arches into the streete vnder which they walke drie and couered from the Sunne as like wife the houses are built in that sort in that part of the Citie where they shew the house of Herod in both which places the way on both sides the streete is raised for those that walke on foote lying low in the middest for the passage of laded Asses In other parts the Citie lies vninhabited there being onely Monasteriesof diuers Christian Sects with their Gardens And by reason of these waste places and heapes of Flint lying at the dores of the houses and the low building of them some streetes seeme rather ruines then dwelling houses to him that lookes on them neere hand But to them who behold the Citie from eminent places and especially from the most pleasant Mount Oliuet abounding with Oliues and the highest of all the Mountaines the prospect of the Citie and more specially of the Churches and Monasteries which are built with eleuated Glòbes couered with brasse or such glistering mettall promiseth much more beauty of the whole Citie to the beholders eyes then indeed it hath The circuit of the walles containeth some two or three Italian miles All the Citizens are either Tailors Shoomakers Cookes or Smiths which Smiths make their keyes and lockes not of Iron but of wood and in generall poore rascall people mingled of the scumme of diuers Nations partly Arabians partly Moores partly the basest inhabitants of neighbour Countries by which kind of people all the adioyning Territorie is likewise inhabited The Iewes in Turky are distinguished from others by red hats and being practicall doe liue for the most part vpon the sea-coasts and few or none of them come to this Citie inhabited by Christians that hate them and which should haue no traffique if the Christian Monasteries were taken away Finally the Inhabitants of Ierusalem at this day are as wicked as they were when they crucified our Lord gladly taking all occasions to vse Christians despitefully They esteemed vs Princes because wee wore gloues and brought with vs shirts and like necessaries though otherwise we were most poorely appareled yet when we went to see the monuments they sent out their boyes to scorne vs who leaped vpon our backes from the higher parts of the streete we passing in the lower part and snatched from vs our hats and other things while their fathers were no lesse ready to doe vs all iniuries which we were forced to beare silently and with incredible patience Hence it was that Robert Duke of Normandy being sicke and carried into Ierusalem vpon the backs of like rascalls when he met by the way a friend who then was returning into Europe desiring to know what hee would command him to his friends hee earnestly intreated him to tell them that he saw Duke Robert caried into heauen vpon the backs of Diuels The description of the Citie and the Territorie Now followes the explication of the Citie described and first the small Line drawne within the present walles on the West side of the Citie shewes the old walles thereof before Mount Caluery was inclosed within the walles by the Christian Kings for now there remaine no ruines of the old walles this line being onely imaginarie 1 Mount Sion without the walles for part of it is yet inclosed with them 2 The faire Castle which was built by the Pisans of Italy while yet
Riuer we did see some ten Italian miles distant On the North-side of Ierusalem I cannot say whether beyond Iordan or no we did see many Towers hauing globes of glistering mettall and that very distinctly the day being cleere also we did see the wals of a City neere the Riuer Iordan and they said that it was Ieriche Further towards the North they shewed vs from farre off a place where they say our Sauiour was baptized by Iohn And they affirme vpon experience had that the water of Iordan taken in a pitcher will very long keepe sweet and that it corrupted not though they carried it into forraigne parts This water seemed very cleere till it fell into a Lake where they say Sodome with the other Cities stood of old before they were burnt by fier from Heauen And the day being cleere we did plainely see and much maruell that the cleere and siluer streame of Iordan flowing from the North to the South when in the end it fell into the said Lake became as blacke as pitch The Friers our guides seriously protested that if any liuing thing were cast into this Lake of Sodom it could not be made to sinke whereas any heauy dead thing went presently to the bottome Also that a candle lighted cannot be thrust vnder the water by any force nor be extinguished by the water but that a candle vnlighted will presently sinke I omit for breuities sake many wondrous things they told vs of the putrifaction of the aire and other strange things with such confidence as if they would extort beliefe from vs. We had a great desire to see these places but were discouraged from that attempt by the feare of the Arabians and Moores for they inhabite all these Territories And I said before that the Arabians howsoeuer subiect to the Turk yet exercise continuall robberies with all libertie and impunitie the Turkes being not able to restraine them because they are barbarous and liue farre from their chiefe power where they can easily flye into desart places Yet these Barbarians doe strictly obserue their faith to those that are vnder their protection And all the Merchants chuseone or other of the Arabian Captaines and for a small pension procure themselues to be receiued into their protection which done these Captaines proclaime their names through all their Cities and Tents in which for the most part they liue and euer after will seuerely reuenge any wrong done to them so as they passe most safely with their goods All other men they spoile and make excursions with their leaders and sometime with their King to the sea side as farre as Ioppa and much further within Land spoyling and many times killing all they meet When we returned from Bethania we declined to the North side of Mount Oliuet and came to the ruines of 71 Bethphage where Christ sent for the Colt of an Asse and riding thereupon while the people cried Hosanna to the Highest and laid branches and leaues vnder his feet did enter into Ierusalem Vpon Friday the seuenth of Iune to wards the euening we tooke our iourney to Bethlehem Iuda and we foure lay consorts the Friars by our consent still hauing the priuiledge to be free from these expences deliuered iointly foure zechines to the Friars ours guides for our charges whereof they gaue vs no other account then they did formerly yet they onely disbursed some small rewards since we went on foot and were otherwise tied to satisfie the Friars of the Monastery vnder the name of gift or almes for our diet there but since they vsed vs friendly we would not displease them for so small a matter We went out of the City by the gate of Ioppa on the West side and so along 72 this line passed by a paued causey beyond Mount Sion and then ascended another Mountaine to Bethlehem 73 Here they shew the Garden of Vvia and the Fountaine wherein Bersheba washed her selfe which at that time was drie And from the place where the Tower of Dauid was seated vpon Mount Sion noted with the figure 6 is an easie prospect into this garden 74 Here they show the Tower of Saint Simion 75 Here is a Tree of Terebinth which beares a fruit of a blacke colour like vnto an Oliue yeelding oyle and vnder this tree they say the Virgine did rest when shee carried Christ to be presented in the Temple For which cause the Papists make their beades of this tree and esteeming them holy especially when they haue touched the rest of the monuments they carry them into Europe and giue them to their friends for great presents and holy relikes 76 Here they shew a fountaine called of the Wise-men of the East and they say that the starre did here againe appeare to them after they came from Herod 77 Here they shew the ruines of a house wherein they say that the Prophet Habakcuk dwelt and was thence carried by the haires of the head to feede Daniel in the Lions Den at Babylon 78 Here they shew the Fountaine of the Prophet Elias and the stone vpon which he vsed to sleepe vpon which they shew the print of his head shoulders and other members which prints haue some similitude but no iust proportion of those members From a rock neere this place we did see at once both Ierusalem Bethlehem 79 Here they shew a Tower and ruines where the Patriarck Iacob dwelt and here againe we did see both Cities 80 Here is an old stately Sepulcher in which they say Rachel Iacobs wife was buried It is almost of a round forme built of stone and lime foure foote high hauing the like couer aboue it borne vp by foure pillars There be two other Sepulchers but nothing so faire and all three are inclosed within one wall of stone 81 Here they shew the Fountaine for the water whereof Dauid thirsted yet would not drinke it when it was brought with the hazard of blood 82 Here the City Bethlehem is seated which then was but a Village hauing no beauty but the Monastery 83 Here the Monastery is seated large in circuit and built rather after the manner of Europe then Asia which the Italian Franciscan Friars called Latines and more commonly Franckes doe possesse but other Christian sects haue their Altars in the Church by speciall priuiledge and the Turkes themselues comming hither in Pilgrimage doe lie within the Church for the Turkes haue a peculiar way by a doore of Iron made of old and kept by them to enter into the Chappell where they say Christ was borne This Monastery seemes strong enough against the sudden attempts of the Turkes or Arabians yet the Friars in that case dare not resist them liuing onely in safety by the reuerence which that people beares to this place and by the opinion of their owne pouerty The greater Church is large and high in which I numbred twenty foure pillars but my consorts being more curious obserued that the pillars were set in foure rankes euery ranke
vitae which they call Harach and drinke as largely as Wine for ten meidines foure pounds of wine for one zechine Bisket for the Turkes haue no other bread but cakes baked on the harth for thirty meidines which things we prouided for our Supper and to carry with vs by the way yet might we haue bought and did buy most things by the way excepting Wine and Bread which are hardly found and must be carried by those that will haue them The guide of our Carauan was detained here by his businesse most part of the next day being Wednesday and in the meane time it fortunately happened that a Turkish Basha returning with his traine from his Gouernement and being to goe our way rested here so as his company freed vs the rest of our iourney from feare of theeues Vpon Wednesday in the afternoone we setforward in the company of this Basha and iournied all night in this Plaine wherein there was not the shadow of one tree and at eight of the clock the next morning we did sit downe in the open field resting vnder the ruines of old walles Here the Ianizaries of the Basha inquired curiously after the condition of me and my brother so as our Muccaro aduised vs to giue them halfe a piastro which they receiuing promised to defend vs from all iniury but in the meane time they did so swallow our wine as when it was spent we were forced to drinke water to which we were not vsed Vpon Thursday at three of the clock in the afternoone we set forward and about midnight we came to the Citie Marrha where our Muccaro and diuers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute and at the Citie Gate a man was hanged in chaines also the next day we did see another impalled that is sitting and rotting vpon a stake fastned in the ground and thrust into his fundament and bowels Vpon Friday before day wee set forward and passing a stony barren way but full of Walnut trees vpon which many birds did sit and sing wee came in foure houers space to an Hospitall which they call Caon and it was stately built of stone in a round forme with arches round about the Court-yard vnder which arches each seuerall company chose their place to eate and rest both which they must doe vpon the ground except they bring Tables and beds with them Neither were any victuals there to be sold or dressed but euery man bought his victuals in the Village adioyning and dressed it after his manner The same Friday at foure in the afternoone wee went forward and riding all night did vpon Saturday early in the morning sleepe an hower in the open field while meate was giuen to our beasts Then going forward we came by Noone the same day being the nine and twentie of Iune after the Popes new stile which I haue followed hitherto being in company of Italians and Friers to the famous Citie of Haleppo where the English Merchants liuing in three houses as it were in Colledges entertained my brother and mee very 〈◊〉 And George Dorington the Consul of the English there led vs to the house wherein he liued with other Merchants and there most courteously entertained vs with plentifull diet good lodging and most friendly conuersation refusing to take any money for this our entertainement And howsoeuer wee brought him onely a bill of exchange for one hundred Crownes yet when we complained to him that we now perceiued the same would not serue our turnes hee freely lent vs as much more vpon our owne credit Yea when after my brothers death my selfe fell dangerously sicke and was forced to goe from those parts before I could recouer my health so as all men doubted of my returne into England yet he lent me a farre greater summe vpon my bare word which howsoeuer I duly repayed after my comming into England yet I confesse that I cannot sufficiently acknowledge his loue to mee and his noble consideration of poore and afflicted strangers The Citie Haleppo is said to haue the name of Halep which signifies milke because the Prouince is most fruitfull or of the word Aleph as the chiefe Citie of Syria and to haue been called of old Aram Sohab mentioned the second of Samuel the eight Chapter and third verse or at least to be built not farre from the ruines thereof The Trafficke in this place is exceeding great so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Ilands are brought hither or to Cayro in Egypt And before the Portugals found the way into East India these commodities were all brought from these two Cities And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enioyed all this trafficke of old But after that time the Portugals trading in East India serued all Europe with these commodities selling them yea and many adulterate Druggs at what price they listed cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians At last the French King making league with the great Turke the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke and in our age the English vnder the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth obtained like priuiledge though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians French Merchants And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all other silently enioying the safety and profit of this trafficke vnderstand that when I wrote this the trafficke into the East Indies was nothing at all or very little knowne to the English or Flemmings This City lies within Land the Port whereof called Alexandretta by the Christians and Scanderona by the Turkes I shall hereafter describe The building of this City as of all houses in Syria is like to that of Ierusalem but one roofe high with a plaine top plaistered to walke vpon and with Arches before the houses vnder which they walke dry and keepe shops of wares The City is nothing lesse then well fortified but most pleasantly seated hauing many sweet gardens The aire was so hot as me thought I supped hot broth when I drew it in but it is very subtile so as the Christians comming hither from Scanderona a most vnhealthfull place hauing the aire choaked with Fens continually fall sicke and often die And this is the cause that the English Factors imployed here seldome returne into England the twentieth man scarcely liuing till his prentiship being out he may trade here for himselfe The Christians here and the Turkes at the Christians cost drinke excellent wines where of the white wines grow in that territory but the red wines are brought from Mount Libanus Moreouer all things for diet are sold at cheape rates and indeed the Turkes want not good meat but only good Cookes to dresse it The English Merchants can beare me witnes that these parts yeeld sheepe whereof the taile of one wreathed to the ground doth weigh some thirty or more pounds in fat and wooll In one of the City gates they shew the Sepulcher
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
vnder Banaria towards the Alpes between Carinthia Heluetia or Sweitzerland and hath the name of the riuer Athesis vulgarly called Etsch which runs into Italy by Trent and Verona and is there called l'Adice and so falles into the Riuer Po. This Prouince is commonly called the County of Tyrol the Cities whereof are Brixia and AEnipons vulgarly Inspruck a faire Citie 5. The names of Rhetia Vindelicia Norira in these dayes are out of vse and the limits of them are often cōfounded That is properly Rhetia which lies between the lake of Constantis or Costnetz towards the North and the high top of the Alpes towards the South whose chiefe City is Bregants the inhabitants of these Alpes are vulgarly called Grisons 6 Vindelicia is the other part of that tract lying betweene the Danow and the Alpes which hath faire Cities as Augusta Vindelicorum vulgarly Augsburg a famous City Vlme Ingolstad Ratisbona vulgarly Regenspurg and Passaw Obserue that the old limits of Rhetia did reach to Verona and Como in Italy but now great part of it is laid to Sueuia in Germany as namely the Cities Augsburg and Vlme aforesaid 7 The Countries of Bauaria and of the Bishopricke of Saltzburg were of old called Vindelicia Noricum and the Inhabitants thereof Taurisci and it hath these Cities Scherdung Saltzburg and Lintz 8 Sueuia stretcheth into old Vindelicia and that which at this day is so called containes the greater part of Rhetia and Vindelicia The Sueuians vulgarly Schwaben of old forsooke their dwelling vpon the Riuer Elue and inuaded vpper Rhetia which to this day they hold The Cities thereof are Nerlingen Gepingen and the foresaid Vlme and Augsburg 9 Heluetia or Sweitzerland was of old part of Gallia Belgica now is reckoned as part of Germany The head spring of the Rheine the second Riuer of Germany next in greatnesse to the Danow is in the highest Alpes of Heluetia where it riseth in two heads and the Northerly head falling from the Mountaines Furca and Gotardo is called the fore Rheine and the Southerly head falling from the Lepontine Mountaines is called the hinder Rheine both which running towards the East are vnited at Chur and then with the name of Rheine it fals towards the North violently from the Mountains Heluetia hath many very famous Cities namely Schaffhusen as the houses of boats or ships Constantia vulgarly Costnetz Tigurum vulgarly Zurech Solodurum or Solothurn Bern Lucern Geneua with Losanna which two last of old were reckoned in Sauoy but now are confederate with the Sweitzers The Inhabitants of Heluetia are commonly called Sweitzers and among themselues they will be called Eidgenossin that is partakers of the sworne league The part of Heluetia betweene the Rheine and the lake of Constantia is called Brisgoia vulgarly Brisgaw Bris signifies a price and Gaw a meadow and therein is the spring-head of the Riuer Danow and the Townes thereof are Rotwill Brisach Friburg an Vniuersity Basil a famous Vniuersity of old belonging to Alsatia now confederate with the Sweitzers 10 Alsatia so called of the riuer Illa running through it is diuided into the vpper the lower The vpper from Basil to Strasburg is called Singaw and the Inhabitants of old were called Tribocchi and Tribotes some hold Strasburg of old to haue beene the chiefe City thereof but it hath now three Cities Basil Selestade and Rusach The lower lying aboue Strasburg to the Mount Vogasus hath these Cities Haganaw and Sabern 11. For the Tract vpon the Rheine first aboue Alsatia towards Metz the Nemetes whose chiefe City is Spira and the Vangiones whose chiefe City is Worms possesse the West side of the Rheine The tract adioyning is called Vetus Hannonia vulgarly Alt-henegaw Something further from the Rheine towards the Dukedome of Luxenburg are these Prouinces The County Sweybrucken also called Bipoutanus in Latin of two Bridges and the Cities are Sweybrucken and Sarbrucken Secondly Austracia vulgarly Vestreich as a vast Kingdome Thirdly the Territory of the Elector Bishop of Trier whereof the chiefe Citie is Treueris vulgarly Trier On the other side of the Rheine towards the East the Marquisate of Baden lyes next to Heluetia whose inhabitants of old were called Vespi Next lies the Dukedome of Wirtenburg the Cities whereof are Tubinga and Sturcardia whereof the former is an Vniuersitie Then followes the Palatinate of Rheine the Inhabitants whereof were of old called Intuergi Phargiones and are now called Phaltzer and Heidelberg seated vpon the Riuer Neccar is the chiefe Citie and the seate of the Palatine Elector The lower Germany is deuided into nineteene Prouinces Franconia Bohemia Morauia Silesia Saxonia Lusatia Misnia Turingia Marchia the Dukedome of Branswicke the Dukedome of Meckleburg Hassia Iuliacum Cliuia Westphalia Frisia Orientalis Pemerania Borussia Linonia for I omit Gallia Belgica to be handled in his proper place 1 Franconia is an ancient and noble Nation the inhabitants wherof driuing the Romans out of Gallia possessed the same and gaue the name of France to that Kingdome This Prouince hath old and faire Cities namely Bamberg a Bishops seate Rotenburg Francfort famous for the yeerely Marts or Faires Wirtzberg a Bishops seate Mentz or Metz the seate of the chiefe Elector Bishop and Nurnberg a famous City which some hold to be in Bauaria but the Citizens doe more willingly acknowledge themselues to be Franckes All the Prouince excepting the free Cities and the three Cities belonging to Bishops is subiect to the Margraue of Brandeburg 2 Bohemia hath a language proper to it selfe and hath two Prouinces belonging to it Morauia hauing his proper language and Silesia vsing the Dutch tongue and these three make a Kingdome which is subiect to the Emperour and it is ioyned by Geographers to the Prouinces of Germany because the same compasseth it almost round about Bohemia is not deuided into Counties but according to the Teritories belonging to the King or to Noble men and Gentlemen this being called the Kings land that the land of the Baron of Rosenberg or the land of the Popells and so of the rest The chiefe City and seate of the Emperour their King is Prage The Riuer Blue hath his head spring in Bohemia being the third Riuer of Germany and it runs through Saxony to Hamburg and after falls into the sea The inhabitants of Bohemia came out of Dalmatia as their language witnesseth 3 Morauia was of old inhabited by the Marcomanni and had subiect to it Bohemia Silesia and Polonia but at this day it is onely a Marquisate subiect to Bohemia and hath the name of the Riuer Moraua The chiefe City thereof is Bromia vulgarly Prim. 4 The inhabitants of Silesia were of old called Lugij Dantuli and Cogni The Riuer Viadrus or Odera runnes through it into Pomerania and so falles into the sea Silesia is annexed to Bohemia and so is likewise subiect to the Emperour as King of Bohemia and the chiefe City thereof is Vratislauia vulgarly Bressell and the inhabitants of this
Prouince are Germans as well in language as manners 5 Saxony containes all that lies betweene Hassia Silesia Polonia Bohemia and the Baltick sea so as at this day Lusatia Misnia Turingia both the Markes and the Dukedomes of Brunswick and of Meckleburg are contained therein 6 Lusatia is a little Region annexed to the Kingdome of Bohemia In the vpper part are the Cities Gurlitz an Vniuersity and Pautsan and Siltania In the lower Sorauick and Cotwick and the Riuer Sprea runnes through them both 7 Misnia was of old inhabited by the Hermondari and Sorabi of the Sclauonian Nation It is a fertill Region and therein begin the Mountaines which ptolomy calles Suditi in which are mines of mettals and especially of siluer The Cities thereof are Misnia vulgarly Misen Torg Leipzig and Witteberg two Vniuersities Fryburg the fields whereof haue rich mines of siluer Dresden the seate of the Saxon Elector Remnitz and Suicania 8 The Prouince of Turingia is said of old to haue been inhabited by the Gothes because the chiefe City is called Gota The Metropolitan City is Erford being large and ancient and one of the free Cities of the Empire This Prouince is subiect to the Duke of Saxony with the title of Langraue as Misnia is also with the title of Marquis 9 The Riuer Odera hath his head spring in Marchia and runnes through it deuiding it into the new Marke and the old The chiefe Citie of the old is Franckford vpon the Odera so called in difference of the more knowne Franckford vpon the Maene The new Marke hath these Cities Berlin the seate of the Elector and Brandeburg of which the Elector of Brandeburg hath that stile and both the new and old are subiect to the said Elector 10 Brunswick giues the name to that Dukedome and hath the name of Bruno that built it and is a free Citie of the Empire strongly fortified and not any way subiect to the Duke of Brunswick though vpon some old title hee hath the name thereof and possesseth the rest of the Dukedome holding his Court at Wolfenbriten not farre distant from Brunswick 11 The Dukedom of Meckelburg was of old inhabited by the Pharadini as Ptolomy writes It hath two Cities both on the Seaside Wismar and Rostoch an Vniuersity 12 Hassia is a mountanous Country in which Ptolomy placeth for old inhabitants the Longobardi the Chatti the Teucteri and the Chriones At this day it is subiect to the Family of the Landgraues of Hassia It hath these Cities Casseits the chiefe seat of the elder brother of that Family Hersphild and Marpurg an Vniuersitie The tract vpon the Riuer Louia is deuided into the County of Nassaw whereof the chiefe Towne is Dillenberg and the County of Catzmelbogen so called of the Chatti inhabitants and Melibots a famous Mountaine The Bishoprick of Colen giues title to one of the Clergie Electors and was of old inhabited by the Vbij of whom the chiefe Citie was first called Vbiopolis which Marcus Agrippae repaired and called it Agripina Augusta but Marcomirus King of the Francks or French conquering it called it Colonia It is a small Country and the Bishop Elector hath most part of his reuenues from other places 13 Iuliacum is a little Region and hath title of a Dukedome 14 The Dukedom of Cleue was of old inhabited by the Vstpetes and the City Cleue is the seate of the Duke 15 Westphalia is a large Region inhabited by the Cherusci Teucteri Bructeri and the Vigenoues and it hath these Cities Padeborn Munster which the Anabaptists held in time of Luther Breme a free city of the Empire fairely built vpon the Riuer Visurgis and Mindawe 16 Easterly Freesland lyes vpon the Riuer Aniesus vulgarly Emms and is a County subiect to the Count of Emden who hath his name of the chiefe Citie Emden but of late vpon some difference he was for a time driuen out of that City so as it seemes hee hath not absolute power ouer it 17 Pomerania was of old inhabited by the Hermiones and lies vpon the Baltike sea or Oest sea and is subiect to the Duke thereof It hath these Townes Stetin coberg both on the Sea-side Sund Stutgard and Grippwalt which lies also on the sea and is an old Vniuersitie but hath few or no Students 18 Bornssia or Prussia is at this day subiect to the King of Polonia by agreement made betweene the Polonians and the Knights of the Tentonick order but the inhabitants are Germans both in speech and manners The chiefe Cities are these Dantzk a famous Citie acknowledging the King of Poland for tributes yet so as they will not receiue him into the Citie but with such a traine as they like Another Citie is Konigsperg the seate of the Duke of Prussen who is of the Family of the Elector of Brandeburg but hath the Dukedome in Fee from the Kings of Poland to whom it fals in want of heires males The other Cities are Marieburg Elbing and Thorn which lies vpon the confines of Poland and witty Copernicus was borne there 19 Ltuonia is a part of Germany but hath neither the speech nor the manners thereof It was subdued some two hundred yeeres past and was brought from the worshipping of Idols and Deuils to Christian Religion yet in the Villages they haue not at this day fully left their old Idolatrie It is inhabited by the old Saxons and hath these Cities Refalia on the sea-side Derbt within land and the Metropolitan Citie Riga on the sea-side which the Duke of Moscony hath often but in vaine attempted to subdue Old Writers affirme as Munster witnesseth that the Germanes had perpetuall Winter and knew not Haruest for want of fruites This opinion no doubt proceeded rather from their neglect or ignorance of tyllage and husbandrie then from the indisposition of the ayre or soyle Yet I confesse that they haue farre greater cold then England lying more Northerly especially in lower Germany and the Prouinces lying vpon the Baltick or Oest Sea more especially in Prussen part of that shoare which the more it reacheth towards the East doth also more bend towards the North where in September my selfe did feele our Winters cold And since the Baltick sea is little subiect to ebbing and flowing and the waters therof are not much moued except it bee vpon a storme it is daily seene that in winter vpon a North or North-West wind this sea for a good distance from the land is frosen with hard yce to which the inland Riuers are much more subiect which argues the extreme cold that this part of Germany suffereth Also neare the Alpes though Southerly that part of Germany hauing the said Mountaines interposed betweene it and the Sunne and feeling the cold winds that blow from those Mountaines perpetually couered with snow doth much lesse partake the heat of the Sunne then others vnder the same paralell hauing not the said accidents Vpon these Alpes whereof I haue formerly spoken in this booke the snow lyes
faire Cities Vrbinum subiect to the Duke thereof which some make part of Ptcanum Rimini Bologna subiect to the Pope and ancient Rauenna which with the greatest part of this Prouince is subiect to the Pope who erected Vrbine from a County to a Dukedome with couenant of vassalage which the Popes seldome omit yet some part of the Prouince is subiect to the Venetians 11 Lombardy of old was part of Gallia Cisalpina which the Riuer Padus vulgarly Po and of old called Eridanus diuides into Cispadan on this side the Po and Transpadan beyond the Po. Cispadan of old called Emilia now vulgarly di qua del ' Po containes Pigmont so called as seated at the foote of the Mountaines whereof the chiefe Citie is Turin of old called Augusta Taurinorum and this Prouince is subiect to the Duke of Sauoy Also it containes the Territory of Parma subiect to the Duke thereof wherin are the cities Parma Piacenza Transpadane vulgarly di la del ' Po containes the Dukedome of Milan the chiefe City whereof is Milano and it hath other Cities namely Como where both Plimes were borne seated on the most pleasant Lake 〈◊〉 vulgarly di Como abounding with excellent fishes Also Tic. num vulgarly 〈◊〉 where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of Charles the fifth Lastly Cremona among other things famous for the Tower This Dukedome is the largest and richest of all other as Flaunders is among the Counties and it is subiect to the King of Spaine 12 Also Transpadane Lombardy containes the Dukedome of Mantua subiect to the Duke thereof and Marca Treuisana or Triuigiana subiect to the State of Venice Mantua is the chiefe City of the Dukedome and Marca Treuisana hath the famous Cities Venice Padoa 〈◊〉 Verona Vicenza Brescia and Bergamo The 〈◊〉 of old inhabited all Cisalpina Gailia who gaue the name to the Iyrrhene Sea and were expelled by the Galles and of them the Insubres inhabited the Transpadan part and there built Milano and the Senones inhabited the Cispadane part 13 Histria is deuided into Forum Iulij and Histria properly so called Vorum Iulij vnlgarly Frieli and Patria because the Venetians acknowledge they came from thence was a Dukedome erected by the Lombards the chiefe City whereof is the most ancient Aguilegia adorned with the title of a Patriarchate which at this day is almost fallen to the ground Neere that City is a Towne in which they write that S. Marke penned his Gospell Now the chiefe City is Frioli The confines of this Region lie vpon Marca Trenisana and all the Prouince to the Riuer 〈◊〉 is subiect to the State of Venice The other part is subiect to the Arch-Dukes 〈◊〉 Austria Here growes the wine Pucinum now called Prosecho much celebrated by 〈◊〉 14 Histria properly so called is almost in the forme of a Peninsule almost an Iland and the chiefe City is Iustinopolis vnlgarly Capo d'Istria and all the Prouince is subiect to the State of Venice Italy in Winter time namely the moneths of December January and February hath a temperate cold with little or no frosts or Ice And howsoeuer my selfe did see not onely the Riuers of the State of Venice but the very Inland Seas of Venice frozen and couered with thicke yce for the space of three weekes yet the Venetiaos find it was a rare accident In Summer the heate is excessiue and the dew falling by night is very vnwholsome as also thunderings and lightnings are frequent which doe great hurt both to man and beast then abroad as sad experience often shewes them But in the Dog-daies no man is so hardy as to put his head out of his dores or to goe out of the City For they prouerbially say Quando il Sole alberga in Leone 〈◊〉 sano guadagna assai that is When the Sunne lodgeth in the Signe of the Lion he that preserues his health gaines enough This excesse of heate they carefully auoid by inhabiting vpon the sides of the Mountaines and Hilles towards the Sea which cooleth the windes and by retiring into vaults vnder ground or open Tarrasses lying vpon Riuers and free from the Sunne Yea some haue found the meanes by an artificiall Mill to draw Winde into a vault and from thence to disperie it into any roome of the house All Italy is diuided with the Mount Apennine as a back is with the bone and vpon both sides thereof as well towards the North as South the Hilles and Plaines extend towards the Tirrhene and Adriatike Seaes in so narrow compasses as many times a man may at once see both the Seas from the top of the Mountaine so as the fresh windes blowing from each Sea doe not a little mitigate the heate of the clime For the Sea windes blowing from any quarter whatsoeuer while they gather cold by long gliding on the water must needes refresh where they blow as on the contrary winds sweeping vpon the earth increase the heate Thus in the West part of Sicily when the South East wind blowes and sweepes vpon the plaine parched by the Sun it brings excessiue heate yet the same wind yea the very South wind in his nature most hot when they sweepe vpon the Sea and after beate vpon the Mountaines of Liguria doe bring a pleasant coolenesse with them Touching the fertility of Italy before I speake of it giue me leaue to remember that Ierome Turler writing of Trauell into forraigne parts relates that a Prince of Naples hauing a kinseman to his pupill who desired much to see forraigne Kingdomes he could not deny him so iust a request but onely wished him first to see Rome whether he went and after his returne the Prince tooke an accompt of him what he had seene and finding him sparingly to relate his obseruations in that place he made this answere to his request Cozen you haue seene at Rome faire Meadowes Plaines Mountaines Woods Groues Fountaines Riuers Villages Castles Cities Baths Amphitheaters Play-houses Temples Pillars Statuaes Colosses triumphall Arkes Pyramides Academies Gardens Water-Conduits Men good and ill learned and vnlearned more you cannot see in the vniuersall World then be content and stay at home And so he restrained the young Man in his desire to trauell wherein perhaps he rather sought to get liberty then experience This I write to shew that the Italians are so rauished with the beauty of their owne Countrey as hauing by sharpenesse of wit more then the true value of things magnified and propounded to strangers admiration each Brooke for a Riuer each vice for the neighbour vertue and each poore thing as if it were to be extolled aboue the Moone they haue thereby more wronged themselues then vs. For we passing through Italy though we find our selues deceiued in the fame of things yet still we heare and see many things worthy to be obserued but of the Italians holding Italy for a Paradice very few sharpen their wits with any long voyage and great part
laid aside all care of forraigne matters Then the riches of the Emperours daily decreasing and the riches of inferiour Princes no lesse increasing the Emperours in processe of time for great summes of money sold libertie and absolute power to the Princes and Dukes of Italy and Germany yea their very right of inuesting to the Princes of Italy Most of the Cities in Netherland and all the Cantons of the Sweitzers were of old subiect to the German Emperours till by the dissentions betweene them and the Popes they found meanes to gaine their liberties Of old nintie sixe greater Cities thus made free still acknowledged the Emperour in some sort but after many of them leagued with the Sweitzers and Netherlanders quite forsooke the Emperour many of the rest and many lesse Cities either pawned to Princes for money borrowed or giuen to Princes for their good seruice to the Emperors in their warres became subiect to diuers Princes by the Emperours consent so as at this day there bee onely sixty Cities all seated in Germany which are called Free and Imperiall Cities hauing absolute power within themselues and howsoeuer these in a sort acknowledge the Emperour their chiefe Lord yet they little or not at al feare or respect his weake power Hitherto the Roman Bishops not enduring a superiour Lord first cast the Emperours of the East out of Italy and after by al meanes weakened their power till Mahumet the second Emperour of the Turkes about the yeere 1453 swallowed that Empire within his foule iawes Hitherto the said Bishops that they might reigne alone sometimes bewitched the barbarous Kings which had destroyed the Empire of the West and then reigned in Italy for Religions sake to promote the Church of Rome and at other times oppressed them with open treacheries till they had conferred the Kingdome of Lombardy and the Empire of the West vpon Charles the Great King of France Hitherto the same Bishops for the same causes had troubled the Empire of the West with Ciuill dissentions till at last Italy as I said hauing bought liberty of the Emperours and the said German Emperours containing themselues at home for no Emperour after the said Rodulphus of Habsburg but onely Lodwick the Bauarian did euer leade any Army into Italy they now thought good to rage no more against this deiected Empire but rather to cherrish it conuerting themselues wholly to bring all Christian Kings vnder their yoke And now the Turkish Emperours began to threaten ruine to the German Empire and in very Germany the Popes stage where they had plaied their bloudy parts by continuall raising of ciuill warres the reformation of Religion began freshly to spring and to pull the borrowed plumes of the Popes Therefore the Emperours from that time to this our age haue been wholy busied in resisting the Turkes and composing the domesticall differences of Religion And from the same time forward the Court of Rome was continually distracted with the factions of France and Spaine till the Popes skilfull to vse the ambitious discussions of Princes to their owne profit and greatnesse made them all subiect to the Romane yoke And the Kings on the contrary laboured nothing more then to haue the Pope on their party at whose beck all Christendome was gouerned to which end they gaue large bribes to the Cardinals who had now assumed to themselues the election of the Popes To conclude the Popes to make their owne power transcendent kept the power of the Princes in equal ballance by sowing dissentions among them and fauouring now one now the other party till for scare of the reformed Religion now also springing in France they could no longer keepe this equality but were forced to forsake the Kings of France distracted with ciuill warres and to aduance the Kings of Spaine as protectors of the Church whose Clients at last got the power to gouerne all things in Rome at their pleasure And the Spaniard at this time distracted abroad with the French and English warres and besieged at home with the power of the Iesuites and religious men seemed lesse to bee feared by the Romans in that respect as likewise the Kings of Spaine doubted not to maintaine the awfull authority of the Popes which they knew must alwayes be fauourable to their designes as well for the protection which they gaue to the Roman Church against the reformed Religion as for that the massy gold of Spaine bore so great sway in the Colleage of the Cardinals that by strange successe the Popes lesse inclined to the Spanish faction were soone taken away by vntimely death To omit many other I will onely mention Pope Sixtus Quintus who liued happily in that Chaire so long as he fauoured Spaine but assoone as he was thought to decline from that faction and when he saw a white Mule presented him for the tribute of the Neapolitane Kingdome was said to weepe that so little a Mule should be giuen for so great a Kingdome he liued not long after but suddenly vanished away At Rome are two Images called Pasquin and Marphorius vpon which libels vse to be fixed And of late when the Pope by the mediation of the King of France had made peace with the Venetians contrary to the liking of the King of Spaine a white sheete of paper was fixed on Pasquin and another demanding what that paper ment was fixed on Marphorius and a third paper was fixed on Pasquin answering that the cleane paper was for the Pope to make his last Will and Testament as if he could not liue long hauing offended the Spanish faction Yet in our age the Kings of France after the ciuill warres appeased beganne to recouer their former power in the Roman Court but I leaue these things as somewhat straying from my purpose and returne to the affaires of Germany In the said Family of Austria the Westerne Empire hath growne old and weake by little and little from that time to this our age For howsoeuer the Emperor Charles the fifth of the said Family heire to eight and twenty Kingdomes in respect hee was borne at Gant in Netherland and so reputed a German was chosen Emperour in the yeere 1519 by the Electors reiecting the King of France Francis the first as a stranger and at that time the power of this Emperour seemed fearefull to the Italians at the first blush yet the Pope of Rome in the Triumuirall warre of England France Spaine did with such art support the weaker part and by contrary motions in one and the same cause so fauoured now one now the other side and so dispenced with the breaking of oathes on the part they tooke as while the power of these Kings was weakned by mutuall warres Italy in the meane time receiued small or no damage True it is that Charles the fifth by subtile art and open force had almost subdued Germany distracted by dissentions of religion had almost brought the free Empire into the forme of a subdued
chief Consul hauing notice therof commanded the gates to be shut and the streets to be chained when the Duke had long sate vpon the cart with some annoiance by reason of raine and found he could not goe back and thought it dangerous to goe into any priuate house at last the Consul bought his wood and so drew the Duke to his house where he intertained him honorably yet remembred him that he had put himselfe in needles danger knowing the ill affection of the common people towards him and then sending for the Dukes servantes to attend him led him out of the city with honour Luneburg a free City of the Empire is strongly fortified and statly built but hath no lesse ielosy with the neighbor Dukes bearing the title of the City yet they neither dwell in the City nor medle with the gouernment therof but abide at Cella and at Sethern some twelue miles distant and in other Cities of that Prouince according to the diuision of their inheritance betweene them The Citizens of Luneburg knowing that of old they bought their liberty of these Dukes and that to this day they pay them some tributes iustly feare lest the Duke or his Brothers and Cosens being many in number shold practise any thing against their liberty or at least being poor shold seek new occasiōs to extort mony frō them The Duke of old had a strong Castle built vpon a Mountaine hanging ouer the City vulgarly called Kalckberg that is the Mountaine of Chalke but the Butchers of the City at a Shroftide making shew of mustering in Armes tooke this Castle for which seruice to the Common-wealth the Butchers to this day haue the keeping therof But the Citizens are so suspitious lest it should be betraied to the Duke for mony as if any of them who keep it doe at any time goe forth of it into the City or to any other place they are no more permitted to enter the same Vpon the furthest shore of the Baltike sea towards the North-east the free City of Dantzke is seated It is free in respect of priuiledges for traffique and for that it is gouerned by the Senators and the Lawes of the City yet not numbered among the Imperiall Cities because it in some sort acknowledgeth the King of Poland and paies some couenanted tributes to his Minister residing in the City In the time of Stephen Bathory Prince of Transiluania and King of Poland this City was by him besieged and forced to pay these tributes Whervpon the Citizens to pay them without their own preiudice doubled all Impositions vpon strangers trading there The Consul of the City there as in all Germany is vulgarly called Burgomaster he iudgeth all ciuill criminal causes but appeales are granted from him to the Colledge of ciuil Lawyers from them to the Senate of the City and in some causes from the Senate to the King of Poland This City consists of three Cities vulgarly called Reichstat Furstat Altstatt that is the City of the Kingdome the fore City and the old City and each hath his gates and his Senate and the Consull may be chosen out of either Senate so as for the time of his Office he reside in the cheefe City called Reichstatt Here be the furthest limits of the Empire towards the North and the East And from hence towards the West Iles the shore of the Balticke Sea and of the German Ocean vpon which are seated Stetinum Meckleburg Lubecke Hamburg and Breame Imperiall Cities and free as weli for priuiledges of trafficke in neighbour Kingdomes as for absolute gouernement at home And in East-Freesland for West-Freesland belongs to Netherland the furthest limits of the Empire towards the West and North end in the City of Emden This City hath his Count bearing title of the City and of late he kept his Court therein but the Citizens professing the reformed Doctrine of Caluin and the Count attempting to force them to the profession of Luthers Doctrine not long before I passed that way the Citizens expelled the Count and gaue oath to the Senators of the City to obey them to be ready in armes for the defence of the City and not to remoue their dwellings from thence without leaue of the Senate And the Citizens were thus confident because the City lies vpon the confines of the Netherlanders who maintained men of warre in that Inland Sea and vpon the Riuer passing by the wals of the City to stop any passage and to defend the ships of Merchants forced in those flats to expect the returne of the tide And generally it was thought that Emden would ioine in league with the vnited Prouinces of Netherland but as yet it remained vnder the Empire not free by priuiledge nor yet subiect to the Count of Emden This Count at this time had two sonnes by the daughter of the King of Suelia and howsoeuer his younger brother by the loue of his mother had obtained the best part of the inheritance yet he had no children nor was thought likely to haue any so as no doubt was then made but that the whole inheritance would after his death returne to the children of the elder brother And these things shall suffice briefly written in generall of the Common-wealth of Germany and in particular of the absolute Dominions vnder the Empire CHAP. V. Of the Common-wealth of Sweitzerland according to the diuers subiects of the former Chapters THE Sweitzers deriued of diuers peoples and among others of the Schwalen and Friselanders howsoeuer they be Germans both in language and manners yet because the old Galles gaue them a seat at the foote of the Alpes they were accounted Galles or French till the time of Iulius Caesar. In the Commentaries of Caesar wee find their Commonwealth diuided into foure Communities whereof one namely that of Zurech had not long before ouerthrown the Army of Lucius Cassius Consul of Rome About this time the Sweitzers weary of their barren seat attempted to seeke a new place of dwelling had not Caesar ouercome them and contained them at home And from that time to the daies of Charles the Great and so long as his race possessed the renewed Empire of the West they were still esteemed Galles but when that imperiall dignity fell to the Germans they became subiects to those Emperours and were numbred among the Germans hauing the same manners lawes and customes with them as at this day they haue The Emperours gouerned this Nation by Gouernours vulgarly called Reichs vogt till at last the Common-wealth of the Sweitzers was seuered from that of the Germans and made a free state which in the age before ours hath gotten great reputation And here it is worthy to be obserued that the ambition of Popes and their diuellish tyranny ouer the Emperours not onely after some eight hundred yeeres from Christ caused almost all the Garboyles of States whereof we haue heard or read or which with our owne eyes wee haue
the weauer After sworne men measure and marke the cloth besides other officers who curiously and particularly view each cloth I said before in the History of this towne that it made warre vpon the Abbot when he sought to remoue from it to another towne more absolutely in his power not only the gainefull trade of clothworking but also the holy reliques whereby in those daies great gaine came to them Among the Rhetians or Grisons each conuent or meeting or community hath his Amman and chiefe Magistrates yeerely chosen and a generall Gouernor of the whole leage called Landtrichter that is Iustice of the land yeerly chosen at the publike meeting They haue many conuents or meetings but only three leagues The head of the second league called the house of God is the City of Chur which hath a Cathedrall Church and the common-wealth thereof is not vnlike that of Zurech The three leagues haue but one common-wealth for howsoeuer most places haue their owne Magistrates and Lawes or rather customes and Courts of Iustice aswell for Ciuill as criminall causes yet the chiefe power is in the common or publike Senate of the three leagues consisting of the Burgesses of the seuerall conuents not vnlike the generall Senate of the Sweitzers and the meeting of all the people is seldome called But they haue another Counsell or Senate of the chief men namely the Prouinciall Iudge of the vpper league the Consull of Chur for the league of the house of God the Amman of the third league of the ten Iurisdictions with other chosen men ioined to them but this Counsell hath not full power for the acts thereof are referred to the communities of the leagues that stands in force which the greater part of them doth confirme and the iudgments of such causes as are referred to the seuerall communities are registred in a written booke They determine controuersies and giue Iudgements as the Sweitzers doe Among their Statutes it is decreed by common consent that the Bishop of Chur or any Ecclesiasticall person shall not appoint any Ciuill Magistrates but that they shall be chosen by the voices of the people The three leagues haue their prefectures or gouernments vnder them the gouernor of their Italian prefectures as of those vnder the Sweitzers is vulgarly called Il Podesta from whom the subiects may appeale The three leagues by course appoint these Gouernors for two yeeres and the conuentes or communities by course in their owne league name the said Gouernors for two yeeres Touching the Valesians The conuents of vpper Valesia are seuen and of the lower are six The Bishop of Sedune is the Prince of the Country or region who is named the Earle and Gouernor of the same and he is chosen by the Cannons of the Church at Sedune and by the Burgesses sent from the seuen conuents of vpper Valesia The Captaine of the Country is next to the Bishop and is chosen by the Bishop and the said Burgesses for two yeeres and confirmed by the publke consent of the seuerall conuents and to him all Ciuill causes are referred Each conuent hath a chiefe Magistrate or Maior or Castellan who with the Senate of that counent iudgeth Ciuill and capitall causes and vnder him is the Amman whichis the highest officer in the Cautons dwelling in villages Appeales are admitted from all the seuerall conuents to the publike Senate of Valesia consisting of Burgesses chosen by the conuents and this Senate meetes at Sedune twise euery yere and the Bish op sits in that Counsell and the Baly takes the Voyces By this Senate the Common-wealth is gouerned the gouernours and publike Officers are chosen and it is called the highest Court from which there is no appeale The Lords of Chiurone of old were of great authority and are the Marshalls of the Bishopricke of Sedune Vicounts of Sedune and Seneschalls or Stewards of Valesia The Valesians haue a peculiar Statute to represse the violence of mighty men The Common wealth is gouerned by the Bishop and the seuen Conuents of vpper Valesia whom lower Valesia obeyeth being distributed into sixe prefectures or gouernments and three other prefectures out of Valesia taken or subdued in the Sauoian warre are also subiect to them The Towne of Bipenne hauing league with the three Cantons for ciuill causes acknowledgeth the Bishop of Basil and for Ecclesiasticall iurisdiction is vnder the Bishop of Losanna but hath cast of the yoke of the Papacy and obtained immunitie from the Bishop of Losanna when that Bishoprick and Citie were taken and made subiect to the Canton of Bern. The Bishop of Basil appoints the Maior out of the Senate of the Towne and the Maior taketh an oath from the Citizens and they likewise an oath from him and he with the Senate iudgeth criminall causes and is President for capitall Iudgements The Bishop hath halfe of all fines aboue three pound and certaine tythes with some other reuenewes but the Customes Impositions and Tributes belong to the Citie The Citizens serue the Bishop of Basil in warre but no further from the Towne then they may returne home the same day but if he will vse them further he must hire them with pay The same priuiledges were granted to this Towne by the Bishop in the yeere 1382 which he granted to the lesser Towne of Basil. The publike Senates as well the greater as the lesser are yeerely chosen by all the Citizens and the Master of the Citizens or Burgomaster is next in authority to the Maior and is chosen by both the Senats and when they consult of the Common-wealth the Maior and the Officers of the Bishop goe out of the Counsell The Consull Tribunes Iudges and other Officers are chosen by both the Senates onely the Ensigne is chosen by all the people and he with the Consull hath the care of Pupils This Towne hath some subiects and their Conuents without any Gouernour exercise Iudgements but the greatest matters are referred to the Senate of the Towne The Stipendiary Townes or Cities of the Cantons haue two Counsels or Senates and he that is President of the publike Counsell is called Schuldthess as set ouer debts and at Baden he is chosen by both the Senates Also they haue their Officers their Exchequers and Tributes belongiug to each City but at Baden the customes at the gate belong to the Towne but the impositions vpon Merchandise belong to the Cantons to which the Towne is subiect Lastly they haue Iurisdiction in Ciuill criminall and capitall causes Among them the Towne of Frawenfeld redeemed it selfe from the seruitude of the Monastery of Augia for no small part of the Citizens were Ecclesiasticall slaues to that Monastery At this day it giues an oath to the Lord of Augia the priuiledges alwaies preserued and that Monastery is incorporated to the Bishoprick of Constantia vulgarly called Costnetz The City Iudges haue also power to iudge and punish capitally Touching the prefectures or gouernementes vnder the