of the lands was fallen there was great competition for the title of Abergevenny argued in the High Court of Parliament in the second yeere of King James and their severall claimes debated seven severall daies by the learned Counsell of both parts before the Lords of the Parliament Yet when as the question of precise right in law was not sufficiently cleered but both of them in regard of the nobility and honor of their family were thought of every one right worthy of honorable title and whereas it appeared evidently by most certaine proofes that the title as well of the Barony of Abergevenny as of Le Despenser appertained hereditarily to this Family The Lords humbly and earnestly besought the King that both parties might be ennobled by way of restitution who graciously assented thereunto Hereupon the Lord Chancellour proposed unto the Lords first whether the heire male should have the title of Abergevenny or the heire female and the most voices carried it that the title of the Barony of Abergevenny should bee restored unto the heire male And when he propounded secondly whether the title of the Barony Le Despenser should bee restored unto the female they all with one accord gave their full consent Which being declared unto the King he confirmed their determination with his gracious approbation and royall assent Then was Edward Nevill by the Kings Writ called unto the Parliament by the name of Baron Abergavenney and in his Parliament Robes betweene two Barons as the manner is brought into the house and placed in his seat above the Baron Audley And at the very same time were the letters Patents read whereby the King restored erected preferred c. Mary Fane to the state degree title stile name honour and dignity of Baronesse Le-Despenser To have and to hold the foresaid state and unto the above named Mary and her heires and that her heires successively should bee Barons Le-Despenser c. And upon a new question mooved unto whether the Barony of Abergavenney or the Barony Le-Despenser the priority of place was due The Lords referred this point to the Commissioners for the Office of the Earle Mareschall of England who after mature deliberation and weighing of the matter gave definitive sentence for the Barony Le-Despenser set downe under their hands and signed with their seales which was read before the Lords of the Parliament and by order from them entered into the Journall Booke out of which I have summarily thus much exemplified John Hastings for I have no reason to passe it over in silence held this Castle by homage Wardship and marriage when it hapned as wee reade in the Inquisition and if there should chance any warre betweene the King of England and the Prince of Wales hee was to keepe the Country of Over-went at his owne charges in the best manner he can for his owne commodity the Kings behoofe and the Realme of Englands defense The second little City which Antonine named BURRIUM and setteth downe twelve miles from Gobannium standeth where the River Birthin and Uske meete in one streame The Britans at this day by transposing of the letters call it Brunebegy for Burenbegy and Caer Uske Giraldus tearmeth it Castrum Oscae that is The Castle of Uske and we Englishmen Uske At this day it can shew nothing but the ruines of a large and strong Castle situate most pleasantly betweene the River Uske and Oilwy a Riveret which beneath it runneth from the East by Ragland a faire house of the Earle of Worcesters built Castle-like The third City which Antonine nameth ISCA and LEGIO SECUNDA is on the other side of Uske twelve Italian miles just distant from BURRIUM as hee hath put it downe The Britans call it Caer Leon and Caer LEON ar Uske that is The City of the Legion upon Uske of the second Legion Augusta which also is called Britannica Secunda This Legion being ordained by the Emperour Augustus and translated by Claudius out of Germany into Britaine under the conduct of Vespasian being ready at his command when he aspired to bee Emperour and which procured the Legions in Britaine to take his part was heere at last placed in Garison by Julius Frontinus as it seemeth against the Silures How great this ISCA was in those dayes listen unto our Girald out of his Booke called Itinerarium Cambriae who thus describeth it out of the ruines It was an ancient and Authenticke City excellently well built in old time by the Romanes with bricke Walles Heere may a man see many footings of the antique nobility and dignity it had mighty and huge Palaces with golden pinacles in times past resembling the proud statelinesse of the Romanes for that it had beene found first by Romane Princes and beautified with goodly buildings There may you behold a giant-like Towre notable and brave baines the remaines of Temples and Theatres all compassed in with faire walles which are partly yet standing There may one finde in every place as well within the circuit of the Wall as without houses under ground water pipes and Vaults within the earth and that which you will count among all the rest worth observation you may see every where hoâ—e houses made wondrous artificially breathing forth heate very closely at certaine narrow Tunnels in the sides Heere lye enterred two noble Protomartyrs of greater Britaine and next after Alban and Amphibalus the very principall heere crowned with Martyrdome namely Julius and Aaron and both of them had in this City a goodly Church dedicated unto them For in antient times there had beene three passing faire Churches in this City One of Julius the Martyr beautified with a chaire of Nunnes devoted to the service of God A second founded in the name of blessed Aaron his companion and ennobled with an excellent Order of Chanons Amphibalus also the Teacher of Saint Alban and a faithfull informer of him unto faith was borne heere The site of the City is excellent upon the River Oske able to beare a prety Vessell at an high water from the Sea and the City is fairely furnished with woods and medowes heere it was that the Romane Embassadours repaired unto the famous Court of that great King Arthur Where Dubritius also resigned the Archiepiscopall honour unto David of Menevia when the Metropolitane See was translated from hence to Menevia Thus much out of Giraldus But for the avouching and confirming of the Antiquity of this place I thinke it not impertinent to adjoyne heere those antique Inscriptions lately digged forth of the ground which the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin Bishop of Landaffe a passing great lover of venerable Antiquity and of all good Literature hath of his courtesie imparted unto me In the yeere 1602. in a medow adjoyning there was found by ditchers a certaine image of a personage girt and short trussed bearing a quiver but head hands and feet were broken off upon a pavement of square tile in checker
and Batavia allured by the spoiles of whole provinces no small power of Barbarian forces to be his associates and the Franks especially whom he trained to sea-service and in one word made all the sea coasts every way dangerous for passage To the vanquishing of him Maximianus set forward with a puissant army out of which som there were who in the very voyage suffered death gloriously for Christs sake but when he was come to the sea-side being skared partly for want of sea-souldiers and partly with the rage of the British Ocean staied there and having made a fained peace with Carausius yielded unto him the rule of the Island considering he was taken to bee the meeter man both to command and also to defend the Inhabitants against the warlike nations Hereupon it is that wee have seene in the silver coines of Carausius two Emperours joyning hands with this circumscription CONCORDIA AVG. G. But Maximian turned his forces upon the Frankners who then held Batavia and had secretly under hand sent aide unto Carausius whom he surprized on such a sudden that he forced them to submission In this meane while Carausius governed Britain with incorrupt and unstained reputation and in exceeding great peace against the Barbarians as writeth Ninnius the disciple of Elvodugus hee reedified the wall betweene the mouthes of Cluda and Carunus and fortified the same with 7. castles and built a round house of polished stone upon the banke of the river Carun which tooke name of him erecting therewith a triumphall arch in remembrance of victory Howbeit Buchanan thinketh verily it was the Temple of Terminus as we will write in Scotland When Dioclesian and Maximian as well to keepe that which was won as to recover what was lost had taken to them Constantius Chlorus and Maximianus Galerius to bee Caesars Constantius having levied and enrolled an armie came with great speed and sooner then all men thought to Bologne in France which also is called Gessoriacum a towne that Carausius had fortified with strong garrison and they laid siege unto it round about by pitching logs fast into the earth at the very entry and piling huge stones one upon another in manner of a rampire he excluded the sea and tooke from the towne the benefit of their haven which damme the strong and violent current of the Ocean beating against it forcibly for many daies together could not breake and beare downe no sooner was the place yielded but the first tide that rose made such a breach into the said rampire that it was wholly dis-joyned and broken in sunder And whiles he rigged and prepared both heere and elsewhere an Armada for the recoverie of Britaine he rid Batavia which was held by the Francks from all enemies and translated many of them into the Roman nations for to till their waste and desert territories In this meane time Allectus a familiar friend of Carausius who under him had the government of the State slew him by a treacherous wile and put upon himselfe the Imperiall purple roabe Which when Constantius heard he having manned armed divers fleets drave Allectus to such doubtfull termes as being altogether void of counsell and to seek what to doe he found then and never before that he was not fenced with the Ocean but enclosed within it And withall hoyzing up saile in a tempestuous weather and troubled sea by meanes of a mist which over-spread the sea hee passed by the enemies fleet unawares to them which was placed at the Isle of Wight in espiall and ambush to discoved and intercept him and no sooner were his forces landed upon the coast of Britaine but he set all his owne ships on fire that his Souldiers might repose no trust in saving themselves by flight Allectus himselfe when he espied the Navy of Constantius under saile approaching toward him forsooke the sea-side which he kept and as he fled lighted upon Asclepiodotus Grand Seneschal of the Praetorium but in so fearful a fit like a mad man he hastned his own death that he neither put his footmen in battell ray nor marshalled those troopes which he drew along with him in good order but casting off his purple garment that he might not be knowne rushed in with the mercenary Barbarians and so in a tumultuary skirmish was slaine and hardly by the discovery of one man found among the dead carcases of the Barbarians which lay thick spread every where over all the plaines and hils But the Frankners and others of the barbarous souldiers which remained alive after the battell thought to sacke London and to take their flight and be gone at which very instant as good hap was the souldiers of Constantius which by reason of a misty and foggy aire were severed from the rest came to London and made a slaughter of them in all places throughout the citie and procured not only safetie to the citizens in the execution of their enemies but also a pleasure in the sight thereof By this victory was the Province recovered after it had beene by usurpation held seven yeares or there about under Carausius and three under Allectus Whereupon Eumenius unto Constantius writeth thus O brave victorie of much importance and great consequence yea and worthy of manifold triumphs whereby Britaine is restored whereby the nation of the Frankners is utterly destroyed and whereby upon many people beside found accessarie to that wicked conspiracie there is imposed a necessitie of obedience and allegiance and in one word whereby for assurance of perpetuall quietnesse the seas are scoured and cleansed And as for thee ô invincible Caesar make thy boast and spare not that thou hast found out a new world and by restoring unto the Roman puissance their glorie for prowesse at sea hast augmented the Empire with an element greater than all Lands And a little after unto the same Constantius Britaine is recovered so as that those nations also which adjoyne unto the bounds of the same Island become obedient to your will and pleasure In the last yeares of Dioclesian and Maximian when as the East Church had beene for many years already polluted with the bloud of martyrs the violence of that furious persecution went on and passed even hither also into the West and many Christians suffered martyrdome Among whom the principall were Albanus of Uerlam Julius and Aaron of Isca a citie called otherwise Caër Leon c. of whom I will write in their proper place For then the Church obtained victorie with most honourable and happy triumph when as with ten yeares massacres it could not be vanquished When Dioclesian and Maximinian gave over their Empire they elected that Constantius Chlorus for Emperour who untill that time had ruled the State under the title of Caesar and to him befell Italie Africke Spaine France and Britaine but Italy and Africke became the Provinces of Galerius and Constantius stood contented with the rest This Constantius what
this City as Ptolomee Antonine and the ancient Coine of Septimius Geta doe prove by which it appeareth for certaine that this City also was a Colony For in the reverse or back-side thereof standeth this Inscription COL DIUANA LEG XX. VICTRIX But to testifie the Romanes magnificence there are remaining indeed at this day very few tokens beside pavements of foure square checker worke howbeit in the former ages it presented many which Ranulph a Monke of this City shall tell you out of his Polychronicon in these his owne words There be waies heere under the ground vaulted marveilously with stone worke chambers having arched roofes over head huge stones engraven with the names of ancient men heere also are sometimes digged up peeces of money coined by Julius Caesar and other famous persons and stumped with their inscriptions Likewise Roger of Chester in his Policraticon When I behold saith he the ground worke of buildings in the streetes laid with monstrous big stones it seemeth that it hath beene founded by the painfull labour of Romans or Giants rather than by the sweat of Britans This City built in forme of a quadrant foure square is enclosed with a wall that taketh up more than two miles in compasse and hath eleven parishes But that of S. Johns without the Northgate was the fairest being a stately and solemne building as appeareth by the remaines wherein were anciently Prebendaries and as some write the Bishops See Neere unto the River standeth the Castle upon a rocky hill built by the Earles where the Courts Palatine and the Assises as they call them are kept twice a yeere The houses are very faire built and along the chiefe streets are galleries or walking places they call them Rowes having shops on both sides through which a man may walke dry from one end unto the other But it hath not continued evermore in one tenor of prosperity First it was rased by Egfrid King of Northumberland then by the Danes yet reedified againe by Aedelfled Lady of the Mercians and soone after it saw King Eadgar in magnificent maner triumphing over the British Princes For sitting himselfe in a Barge at the fore-decke Kennadie King of the Scots Malcoline King of Cumberland Macon King of Mann and of the Islands with all the Princes of Wales brought to doe homage and like watermen working at the Ore rowed him along the River Dee in a triumphant shew to his great glory and joy of the beholders Certaine yeeres after and namely about the yeere of our Redemption 1094. when as in a devour and religious emulation as one saith Princes strove avie That Cathedrall Churches and Minsters should bee erected in a more decent and seemely forme and when as Christendome rouzed as it were her selfe and casting away her old habiliments did put on every where the bright and white robe of Churches Hugh the first of the Norman bloud that was Earle of Chester repaired the Church which Earle Loefrick had formerly founded in honour of the Virgin Saint Werburga and by the advise of Anselm whom he had procured to come out of Normandy granted the same unto Monkes And now it is notorious for the Tombe of Henry the Fourth Emperour of Almaine who as they say gave over his Empire and lived heere an Eremits life and for the Bishops See therein established Which See immediately after the Normans Conquest Peter Bishop of Lichfield translated from Lichfield hither but when it was brought to Coventry and from thence into the ancient seat againe West-Chester lay a long time berest of this Episcopall Dignity untill in our fathers dayes King Henry the Eighth having thrust out the Monkes ordeined Prebendaries and restored a Bishopagaine under whom for his Dioecesse he appointed this County Lancashire Richmond c. and appointed the same to be within the Province of the Archbishop of Yorke But returne wee now to matters of greater antiquity When as now the said Cathedrall Church was built the Earles that were of the Normans line fortified the City both with Walles and Castle For as the Bishop held of the King that which belongeth to his Bishopricke these are the words of Domesday booke made by King William the Conquerour so the Earles with their men held of the King wholly all the rest of the City It paid Geld or Tribute for fifty hides and foure hundred and thirty and one houses were thus Geldable and seven Mint-masters When the King himselfe in person came thither every Carrucata yeelded unto him two hundred Hestas and one turn full of Ale and one Rusca of butyr And in the same place for the reedification of the City wall and the bridge the Provost gave warning by an edict that out of every hide in the County one man should come and looke whose man came not his Lord or Master was sined in forty shillings to the King and the Earle If I should particulate the scufflings and skirmishes heere about betweene the Welsh and the English in the beginning of the Normans time their inrodes and outrodes the often scarfires of the Suburbs of Hanbrid beyond the Bridge whereupon the Welshmen call it Treboeth that is The burnt towne as also the Wall made there of Welshmens skuls that went a great length I should seeme to forget my selfe and thrust my sicle into the Historians Harvest But ever since the said time hath Chester notably flourished and King Henry the Seventh made it a County by it selfe incorporate Neither wanteth any thing there that may be required in a most flourishing City but that the Ocean being offended and angry as it were at certaine Mills in the very chanell of the River Dee hath by little withdrawne himselfe back and affoordeth not unto the City the commodity of an Haven as heretofore The Longitude of this place is twenty Degrees and three and twenty Scruples the Latitude three and fifty Degrees and eleven Scruples If you desire to know more touching this City have here these reports out of Lucian that Monke abovesaid who lived almost five hundred yeeres agoe First it is to bee considered that Chester is built as a City the site whereof inviteth and allureth the eye which being situate in the West parts of Britaine was in time past a place of receipt to the Legions comming a farre off to repose themselves and served sufficiently to keepe the Keies as I may say of Ireland for the Romanes to preserve the limite of their Empire For being opposite to the North-East part of Ireland it openeth way for passage of ships and Mariners with spread saile passing not often but continually to and fro as also for the commodities of sundry sorts of Merchandise And whiles it casteth an eye forward into the East it looketh toward not onely the See of Rome and the Emperor thereof but the whole world also so that it standeth forth as a kenning place to the view of eyes that there may bee knowne valiant exploites and
said What ever vaine excesse affects what may mans need content Shall come from thee or else to thee from other lands be sent This plentifull abundance these goodly pleasures of Britain have perswaded some that those fortunate Islands wherein all things as Poets write do still flourish as in a perpetuall Spring tide were sometime heere with us For this doth one Isacius Tzetzes a Greek Author of no small credit affirme and our ancestours seeme to have believed the same as a certaine truth For what time as Pope Clement the sixth as wee read in Robert of Aevsburie had elected Lewis of Spaine to bee the Prince of those fortunate Islands and for to aid and assist him mustered souldiers in France and Italie our countrymen were verily perswaded That hee was chosen Prince of Britâ—ine and that all the said preparation was for Britaine as one saith he of the fortunate Islands Yea and even those most prudent personages themselves our Legier Embassadours there with the Pope were so deeply setled in this opinion that forthwith they withdrew themselves from Rome and hastned with all speed into England there to certifie their countreymen and friends of the matter Neither will any man now judge otherwise who throughly knoweth the blessed estate and happie wealth of Britaine For Nature tooke a pleasure in the framing thereof and seemeth to have made it as a second world sequestred from the other to delight mankind withall yea and curiously depainted it of purpose as it were a certaine portraict to represent a singular beautie and for the ornament of the universall world with so gallant and glittering variety with so pleasant a shew are the beholders eies delighted which way soever they glance To say nothing of the Inhabitants whose bodies are of an excellent good constitution their demeanour right courteous their natures as gentle and their courage most hardie and valiant whose manhood by exploits atchieved both at home and abroad is famously renowned thorow the whole world But who were the most ancient and the very first Inhabitants of this Isle as also from whence this word Britan had the originall derivation sundry opinions one after another have risen and many we have seene who being uncertaine in this point have seemed to put downe the certaine resolution thereof Neither can we hope to attaine unto any certaintie heerein more than all other nations which setting those aside that have their originall avouched unto them out of holy Scripture as well as wee touching their point abide in great darkenesse errour and ignorance And how to speake truly can it otherwise be considering that the trueth after so many revolutions of ages and times could not chuse but be deepely hidden For the first inhabitours of countreys had other cares and thoughts to busie and trouble their heads than to deliver their beginnings unto posteritie And say they had been most willing so to do yet possibly could they not seeing their life was so uncivill so rude so full of warres and therefore void of all literature which keeping companie with a civill life by peace and repose is onely able to preserve the memorie of things and to make over the same to the succeeding ages Moreover the Druidae who being in the olde time the Priests of the Britans and Gaules were supposed to have knowne all that was past the Bardi that used to resound in song all valours and noble acts thought it not lawfull to write and booke any thing But admit they had recorded ought in so long continuance of time in so many and so great turnings and overturnings of States doubtlesse the same had beene utterly lost seeing that the very stones pyramides obelisks and other memorable monuments thought to be more durable than brasse have yeelded long agoe to the iniquitie of time Howbeit in the ages soone after following there wanted not such as desired gladly to supplie these defects and when they could not declare the trueth indeed yet at least way for delectation they laboured to bring foorth narrations devised of purpose with certaine pleasant varietie to give contentment and delivered their severall opinions each one after his owne conceit and capacitie touching the originall of Nations and their names Unto which as there were many who neglecting further search into the trueth quickly yeelded connivence so the most sort delighted with the sweetnesse of the Deviser as readily gave credence But to let passe all the rest one Geffrey Ap Arthur of Monmouth among us whom I would not pronounce in this behalfe liable to this suspicion in the raigne of K. Henrie the Second published an Historie of Britaine and that out of the British tongue as hee saith himselfe wherein he writeth That Brutus a Trojane borne the sonne of Silvius nephew of Ascanius and in a third degree nephew to that great Aeneas descended from supreame Jupiter for the goddesse Venus bare him whose birth cost his mother her life and who by chance slew his owne father in hunting a thing that the wise Magi had foretold fled his country and went into Greece where he delivered out of thraldome the progenie of Helenus K. Priamus sonne vanquished King Pandrasus wedded his daughter and accompanied with a remnant of Trojans fell upon the Island Leogetia where by the Oracle of Diana he was advised to goe into this Westerne Isle From thence through the Streights of Gebraltar where he escaped the Mer-maydes and afterward through the Tuskan sea hee came as farre as to Aquitaine in a pight battell defeated Golfarius the Pict King of Aquitaine together with twelve Princes of Gaul and after he had built the citie Tours as witnesseth Homer and made spoile of Gaule passed over sea into this Island inhabited of Giants whom when he had conquered together with Gogmagog the hugest of them all according to his owne name he called it Britaine in the yeare of the world 2855 before the first Olympiad 334. yeares and before the nativitie of Christ 1108. Thus farre Geffrey of Monmouth Yet others there bee that fetch the name of Britaine from some other causes Sir Thomas Eliot by degree a worshipfull Knight and a man of singular learning draweth it from the Greeke fountaine to wit 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a tearme that the Athenians gave to their publike Finances or Revenues Humfrey Lhuyd reputed by our countrymen for knowledge of Antiquitie to carrie after a sort with him all the credit and authoritie referreth it confidently to the British word PRID-CAIN that is to say a pure white forme Pomponius Laetus reporteth that the Britons out of Armorica in France gave it that name Goropius Becanus saith that the Danes sought heere to plant themselves and so named it BRIDANIA that is Free Dania Others derive it from PRVTENIA a region in Germanie Bodine supposeth that it tooke the name of BRETTA the Spanish word which signifieth Earth and Forcatulus of BRITHIN which as wee read in Athenaeus
not now acknowledge howbeit that it hath been in use among the Britans Rhediad for a course Rheder to run and Rhedecfa a race doe plainly shew which words that they spring from the same stocke no man need to make doubt And what absurditie were it from hence to derive Eporedia a City of the Salassians which Pliny writeth tooke that name of Horse-breakers Another kind of waggon a charriot there was used of both these people which by one name they called Covinus and the driver Covinarius And albeit this word together with that kind of waggon it selfe be quite growne out of use yet the primitive thereof as I may so say remaineth still among the Britains in whose language the word Cowain signifieth to carry or ride in a waggon Essendum likewise was a Gaulish waggon or charriot rather meet for the warres which together with Caesar Propertius attributes to the Britans in this verse Essedacaelatis siste Britanna jugis Stay there your British charriots with yokes so faire engrav'n Circius is a wind by name passing well knowne unto which Augustus Caesar both vowed and also built a temple in Gallia That the word is Gaulish Phavoriâ—us a Gaulois borne declareth in Agellius Our Gauls saith he call the wind blowing out of their land and which they find to be most fell and boisterous by the name of Circius of the whirling and whistling I suppose that it makes Of all winds this is known to be most blustering and violent now Cyrch with the Britans betokeneth force and violence as may be seene in their Letany The Pennine Alpes which Caesar calleth the highest Alpes had this name imposed upon them as Livie writeth not of Annibal Poenus that is the Carthaginian but of that Hill which with the highest top among the Alpes the Mountainers of Gaule consecrated and named Penninus But Pen with the Britans even in these daies signifieth the tops of hils whence the highest mountaines that we have to wit Pen-monmaur Pendle Pen Pencoh-cloud and Pennigent gat their names Neither have the high mountaines Apennini in Italy their name from ought els The cities and States of Gaule coasting upon the Ocean were called as Caesar writeth after the custome of the Gauls Aremoricae with whom the Britans accord in the same name for the same thing For with them Ar-more is as much as by the sea or upon the sea And in the very same sense Strabo nameth them in Greek 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 In the raigne of Dioclesian the Emperor the rurall people in Gaule made a commotion And to the crue of that faction of theirs they gave the name Baucadae And among the Britans Swineheards and country gnoffs be called Beichiad The inborne theeves of the land the Gauls saith Sidonius named Vargae And I have found in the Glossarie of the Cathedrall Church of Lhandaff that theeves in the British tongue were in old time knowne by the name of Veriad The Allobrogae saith that ancient and excellent Scholiast upon Iuvenal were so named because Brogae in French signifieth a land or Territorie and Alla another As one would say Translated out of another place But Bro in British is a region or country and Allan without or externall so that the Etymologie in both tongues holdeth very well There is an herbe like to Plantain called in Gaule Glastrum saith Plinie wherewith the Britans died and coloured themselves as writers testifie This is the herbe which we terme Woad and it giveth a blew colour which colour at this day the Britans terme Glasse This was the Greeks Isatis by the testimony of Plinie and the Diars vitrum by the authority of Oribasius Whereby Pomponius Mela may easily be corrected if in stead of Ultro you put Vitro where he saith thus Britanni incertum ob decorem an ob quid aliud ultro corpora infecti that is whether the Britans died their bodies with woad for a beautifull shew or in some other respect it is uncertaine The Gallathians who spake the same language as S. Hierome witnesseth that the ancient Gauls did had a little shrub called Coccus of which that deep red skarlet colour was made and this very colour the Britans usually name Coco That Brachae were garments common to French and Britains wee have shewed before Diodorus Siculus calleth such unshorne or undressed and of sundry colours And even now adaies the Britans terme foule and ragged clothes Brati If Laina was an old Gaulish word as Strabo seemeth to tell us when he writeth thus The Gauls weave them cassocks of thickned wooll which they call Lainas the Britans are not gone far from them who in their tongue name wooll Glawn Bardus in the Gauls tongue signifieth a Singer Festus Pompeius is mine author and this is a meere British word Bardocucullus as we are taught out of Martial and others was the cloake that the Gaulish Bardi woore And like as Bard so the other part also of the foresaid word remaineth whole among the Britans who call such a cloake Cucull. Gaul saith Plinie yeelded a kinde of Corne of their owne which they called Brance and we Sandalum a graine of the finest and neatest sort Among the Britans likewise meale of the whitest graine is named Guineth Urane The herbe which the Greekes of five leaves doe call Pentaphyllon was named of the Gaules Pempedula as sheweth Apuleius Now Pymp in British is five and Deilen a leafe As the Gaules by Pymp meant the number of five so by Petor foure as wee learne out of Festus who sheweth that Petoritum was a chariot or wagon of the Gaules so called of foure wheeles and this word Pedwar in the British tongue signifieth foure Among wooden instruments Canterium in English a Leaver was among the Gaules called Guvia as Isidorus writeth and novv the same in the British language is named Gwif Betulla vvhich vve call Byrch Plinie nameth a Gaulish tree Hee vvould if he lived novv call it the British tree For it groweth most plentifully in Britaine and in the British tongue is named Bedw Wine delayed with water as we read in Athens the Gaules called Dercoma and among the Britans Dwr betokeneth water And even so not to prosecute all that may be said in Dioscorides the herbe Ferne called in Latin Filix and of the old Gauls Ratis is in the British tongue termed Redin The Elder tree in Latine Sambucus in the old Gaulish Scovies is in British Iscaw The herbe in Italy Seratula in old Gaulish Vetonica the Britans and wee doe call Betany That which in Plinie the Latines name Terrae adeps that is the fat of the ground the Gaules Marga is of the Britans called Marle The white or bright marle named of the Latines Candida Marga of the Gaules Gliscomarga might of the Britans be termed Gluismarl For Gluys with
them is as much as Bright or shining A three-footed stoole which the Latines name Sellula Tripes the Gauls as wee read in Sulpitius Severus Tripetia is among the Britans termed Tribet That which the Latines meane by Centum pedes that is a hundred foot the Gaules in Columella understand by Candetum and the Britans by Cantroed A Birds bill in Latine Avis rostrum the Gaules as we read in Suetonius called Becco and the Britans name Pic. Neither should I bee as fancy-full as Goropius if I reduced Suetonius his Galba which signifieth exceeding fat to the British word Galuus that betokeneth passing big or Bulga in Valerius Flaccus for a leather Budget unto the British Butsiet or the Soldurij in Caesar put for men Devoted unto the Britans Sowdiws or Plinie his Planarat for a plough unto Arat which in the British tongue signifieth a plough or Isidorus his Taxea for Lard unto the Britans Tew or Diodorus Siculus his drinke called Zithum unto their Sider or Cervisia unto Keirch that is Otes whereof the Britans in many places make that drinke or rather to Cwrwf which we in English terme Ale That all these were the ancient words of the ancient Gaules appeareth evidently out of those Authors and you see how fitly they for the most part agree and accord as it were in consent with our British words in sound and sense both Hereunto thus much moreover may be added that seeing the ancient names of places end with both people in the same termination to wit in Dunum Briva Ritum Durum Magus c. it may be gathered that these were not divers nations And even from hence verily a sound reason may be drawn that we Englishmen are sprung from the Germanes for that the later and more moderne names of our townes end in Burrow Berry Ham Steed Ford Thorp and Wich which carrie a just and equall correspondence unto the terminations of the Dutch townes Burg Berg Heim Stadt Furdt Dorp and Wic Againe the reason of certaine old Gaulish words may bee so fitly given out of our British tongue the property and nature of the thing agreeing also thereunto that of necessity we must confesse either they were names imposed by the Britans or els the Britans sâ—ake French But let it suffice to alledge one or two for all The third part of Gaul saith Caesar they inhabite who in their owne language be named Celtae and in ours Galli but of the Greeks Callathae But whence they were called Celtae and Gallathae the best learned of all the French could never as yet tell But let them consider and see whether it come not of the British word Gualt which even yet among the Britans betokeneth the haire or bush of the head as also Gualtoc that signifieth Comata that is with long haire whereof it may seeme that Celtica Gallathae and Galli are termes mollified by variety of pronuntiation Now that the Celtae were called Comati of their long haire which studiously they cherished all learned men doe joyntly grant and as for the letters C. and K. Q. and G. how should one considering their force and native sound put a difference betweene them That the famous and noble river Carunne in France carrieth a swelling streame and as if the waves were angry and chased whereupon Poets name it with these attributes Validus Aequoreus and Rapidus Garumna that is the strong sealike and swift Garumna it is so well knowne as nothing more And all that doth Garw in the British tongue import The river Arar passeth marvellous gently so as by the eie uneth it can be discerned which way the streame goeth whereupon the Poets give these Epithets unto it Araris tardior and Lentus Arar that is Slow and Still Arar But Ara with the Britans betokeneth Still and Slow Rhodanus into which Arar doth fall runneth downe amaine with an exceeding swift and violent current and therefore it is termed Incitus Celer and Praeceps that is swift quicke running headlong Which name Rhodanus disagreeth not much from the British Rhedec that signifieth a speedinesse in running That the Hils Gebennae runne out farre into Gaul in manner of a long continued ridge Strabo and others doe make mention And that Keveâ— among our Britaines soundeth as much as the backe or ridge of an Hill appeareth by the British Dictionarie and I my selfe have seene a long chaine of hils in Yorke-shire which the Inhabitants there doe call the Kivin Considering that stones were in old time errected in Gaul by the high waies side at the distance just of every thousand and five hundred paces see it also that the Gaul-like Leuca or League containeth as Jornandes writeth just so many paces and Leach in the British tongue betokeneth a Stone I would have the learned French-men say whether the said Leuca tooke not that name thereof About the Sea side of that part of France which was called Narbonensis where as the fabulous report goeth Hercules and Albion fought together there lie so many stones every where all abroad that a man would verily thinke it had rained stones there whereupon writers name it the Stonie Strond and stonie field The French in these daies call it Le Craux And yet they know not the reason of this name But Stones in the British tongue be termed Craig They that heretofore inhabited the maritime tract of Gaul which is next unto us were in their owne language called Morini and seeing that the Sea is named Mor in British it seemeth that thereupon they were so termed For the Britans call such as dwell upon the Sea coast Morinwyr like as Aremorica betokeneth long since in Gaulish and now in British By the Sea side Thus Arelate a most famous citie of Gaul seated in a moist and waterie soile may seeme to have taken that name of the very scite thereof For Ar in British signifieth Vpon and Laith Moisture Vxellodunum saith Caesar was a towne having on every side a steepe accesse unto it and scituate upon an high Hill But Vchell among the Britaines is as much as steepe or loftie and Dunum with the ancient Gaules betokeneth a high place or hill as Plutarch hath taught us out of Clitiphon in his booke of Rivers and the same was also in use among the old Britaines The Promontorie Citharistes Plinie placeth in Gaul neere unto Marsiles where now is seene the towne Tolon but if you aske our Welsh Britains what is Cythara in their language they will tell you by and by Telen Againe that no doubt may herein bee left behind seeing it is evident that the late French tongue is come from the Latine and Germane yet so as therein neverthelesse there remaine very many words still of the old Language I have heard of those that be skilfull in both tongues that very many of those French words which
is The Deliverer of the world having procured securitie to the State and common-weale had this piece stamped in honour of him at Triers as appeareth by the Letters S. TR. that is Signata Treviris that is to say coined at Triers Flavius Canstantinus Maximus Augustus the great ornament of Britaine stamped this coine at Constantinople as we are taught by these characters underneath CONS with this GLORIA EXERCITVS that is The glory of the Armie to currie favour with the souldiers in whose choice in those daies and not at the dispose of the Emperour was the soveraigne rule and government Constantinus the younger Son of that Constantinus Maximus unto whom with other countries the Province Britaine befell stamped this piece while his Father lived For he is called only Nobilis Caesar a title that was wont to be given to the Heires apparant or elect Successours of the Empire By the edifice thereon and these words PROVIDENTIAE CAESS we understand that he together with his brother built some publike worke like as by these letters P. LON. that this piece of mony was coined at London This coine carrying the Inscription Dominus noster Magnentius Pius Foelix Augustus may seeme to have beene stamped by Magnentius who had a Britan to his father as also to win the favour of Constantius after hee had put to flight some publike enemie For these Characters DD. NN. AVGG that is Our LORDS AVGVSTI doe argue there were then two Augusti or Emperours And as for that Inscription VOTIS V. MVLTIS X. it betokeneth that the people at that time did nuncupate their vowes in these termes That the Emperour might flourish 5. yeares and by dupling the said number of 5. with lucky acclamations praied for many 10. yeares And hereto accordeth that speech in the Panegyrick oration of Nazarus as followeth The Quinquennall feasts and solemnities of the most blessed and happy Caesars hold us wholly possessed with joyes but in the appointed revolutions of ten yeares our hastning vowes and swift hopes have now rested The letters P. AR. doe shew that this denier was stamped at Arelate Constantius having defeated Magnentius and recovered Britaine in honour of his armie caused this to be stamped The letter R. in the basis thereof importeth haply that it came out of the mint which was at Rome In honour of Valentinian when hee had set upright againe the state of Britaine which was falling to ruine and called that part of it by him thus recovered after his own name Valentia this piece was coined at Antiochia as may be gathered out of the small letters underneath Vnto the Denier of Gratianus I can think of nothing to say more save only that which erewhile I noted upon that of Magnentius What time as Magnus Maximus was by the British armie created Augustus and his son likewise Flavius Victor named Caesar to grace and glorifie the souldiers were these pieces coined and Theodosius having subdued and made them away for the very same cause stamped that with this VIRTVTE EXERCITVS Vpon that golden piece of Honorius I have nothing to observe but that by this Inscription AVGGG there were at the same time three Augusti namely after the yeare of Grace 420. when as Honorius ruled as Emperour in the west Theodosius the younger in the East and with them Constantius by Honorius nominated Augustus who had vanquished our Constantine elected in hope of that fortunate name As for that Inscription CONOB it signifieth that it was fine and pure gold stamped at Constantinople For that same CONOB is no where read so farre as ever I could hitherto observe but in pieces of Gold for CONSTANTINOPOLI OBRIZVM I could annex hereunto many more pieces of Roman mony for infinite store of them is every where found among us in the ruines of cities and townes subverted in treasure coffers or vaults hidden in that age as also in funerall-pots and pitchers And how it came to passe that there should remaine still so great plenty of them I much marvelled untill I had read in the Constitutions of Princes that it was forbidden to melt such ancient coines Having now already represented these antike pieces as well of British as Roman mony in their owne formes I thinke it also profitable for the Reader to insert in this very place a chorographicall table or mappe of Britaine seeing it hath sometime beene a Province of the Romans with the ancient names of places and although the same be not exact and absolute for who is able to performe that yet thereby a man may learne thus much if nothing else that in this round Globe of the earth there is daily some change new foundations of townes and cities are laid new names of people and nations arise and the former utterly be abolished and as that Poet said Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori Why fret should we that mortall men to death doe subject lie Examples daily shew that townes and cities great may die THE DOVVN-FALL OR DESTRVCTION OF BRITAINE WHen as Britaine now was abandoned of the Roman garrisons there ensued an universall and utter confusion full of woefull miseries and calamities what with barbarous nations of the one side making incursions and invasions what with the native Inhabitants raising tumultuous uprores on the other whiles every man catcheth at the government of State Thus as Ninnius writeth They lived in feare 40. yeares or thereabout For Vortigern then King stood in great dread of the Picts and Scots Troubled sore also he was with the violence of Romans that remained heere and no lesse stood he in feare of Ambrosius Aurelius or Aureleanus who during the conflict of these tempestuous troubles wherein his parents that had worne the Imperiall purple roabe were slaine survived them Hereupon the Saxons whom Vortigern had called forth of Germany to aid him made bloudy and deadly warre against those friends that invited and entertained them insomuch as after many variable and doubtfull events of warre they wholly disseised the poore wretched Britaines of the more fruitfull part of the Island and their ancient native seat and habitation But this most lamentable ruine and downfall of Britaine Gildas the Britaine who lived within a little while after all full of teares shall with his piteous pen depaint or deplore rather unto you As the Romans were returning quoth he to their owne home there shew themselves avie out of their carroghes wherein they passed over the Sciticke vale and as it were at high noone Sunne and in fervent heat issuing from out of most narrow holes and caves whole swarmes of duskish vermin to wit a number of hideous high-land Scots and Picts in flocks for manners and conditions in some respect different but sorting well enough in one and the same greedy desire of bloud-shed Who having intelligence that the Roman associats and Maintainers of the Britans were returned home
Christendome flourished with the best In so much as Englishmen were picked forth to guard the person of the Emperours of Constantinople For John the son of Alexius Comenus as our writer of Malmesburie reporteth having their fidelitie in great esteeme applied himselfe especially to their familiaritie commending their love unto his son after him and a long time since they were the Yeomen of the said Emperours guard called by Nicetes Choniata Inglini Bipenniferj that is English Halberdiers or Bill men and by Curopalata Barangi These attended upon the Emperour in every place carrying Polaxes or Halberds upon their shoulders which they tooke up and held upright whensoever the Emperour shewed himselfe from out his Closet and knocking then their Halberds one against another to make a clattering noise they in the English tongue praied for his long life As for that blot wherewith Chalcondilas hath besmutted our nation for having wives in common the truth it selfe washeth it cleane away and represseth the overlashing vanitie of the Grecian For as saith that most learned man and my singular good friend Ortelius in this very matter those things be not alwaies true which by every one are given out of all whatsoever Well these are the nations that seated themselves in Britaine whereof remaine the Britans Saxons or English men and Normans intermingled with them the Scots also in the North whereupon came the two Kingdomes in this Island to wit England and Scotland long time divided but most happily now in the most mightie Prince King Iames under one Imperiall Diademe conjoyned and united Touching the Flemings which flocked hither foure hundred yeares since and by permission of the Kings received a place in Wales to inhabit it is not requisite to speake of them now elsewhere I will treat of that matter But let us conclude this argument with Seneca By these it is manifest that nothing hath continued in the same place wherein it had the first beginning There is a daily stirring and mooving to and fro of mankind some change or other there is every day in so great a revolution of this world New foundations of Cities are laid New names of nations spring up whereas the old are either growne out of use or altered by the comming in of a mightier And considering that all these nations which have broken into Britaine were Northern as all the rest which about the same time over-ranne all Europe and afterwards Asia most truely from the authoritie of holy Scripture wrote Nicephorus Like as terrors oftentimes are sent from heaven by God upon men as lightning fire and tempestuous showers oftentimes from the earth as open gapings of the ground and Earthquakes often from the aire as whirlewinds and extraordinarie stormes so these terrours of the Northerne and Hyporborean parts God keepeth by him in store to send them forth for some punishment when and among whom it pleaseth him in his divine providence THE DIVISION OF BRITAINE NOw let us addresse our selves to the Division of Britaine Countries are divided by Geographers either Naturally according to the course of rivers and interpose of mountaines or Nationally according as the people inhabite them or Diversly and Civilly according to the wils and jurisdiction of Princes But forasmuch as wee shall treat here and there throughout the whole worke of the first and second kinds that third which is civill and politike seemeth properly pertinent to this place Which yet is overcast with so darke a mist through the iniquitie of former times that much easier it is in this case to confute what is false than to find out the truth Our Historiographers will needs have that division of Britaine to be most ancient whereby they divide it into Loegria Cambria and Albania that is to speake more plainely into England Wales and Scotland But I would think this division to be of a newer and later edition both because it is threefold for it seemeth to have risen of those three sorts of people English Welch and Scotish which last of all parted the Island among themselves and also for that such a partition is no where extant in approved Authors before our Geffery of Monmouth For the fable as the Criticks of our age doe thinke could not hang well together unlesse he the said Geffrey had devised three sonnes of Brutus to wit Locrine Camber and Albanact because so many Nations flourished heere when he lived Neither make they doubt but hee would have found out more children of Brutus if there had beene more nations distinct at the same time in Britaine The most ancient division of Britaine in the opinion of many learned men is that which is found in Ptolomee in the second booke of Mathematicall Construction where he threatneth the Parallels namely into Britaine the GREAT and the LESSE But by their leave as great learned men as they be they themselves shal see if it please them to examine throughly and exactly in that place the proportion of distance from the Aequator and compare the same with his Geographicall Descriptions that hee calleth this our Island there Britaine the GREAT and Ireland Britaine the LESSE Howbeit some of our later writers named the hither part of this Island toward the South GREAT and that farther part Northward the LESSE the Inhabitants whereof in times past were distinguished into MAIATAE and CALEDONII that is to say into the habitation of the Champian or Plaines and the Mountainers as now the Scots are divided into Hechtlandmen and Lawlandmen But for as much as the Romans cared not for that farther tract because as Appian saith it could not be profitable for them nor fruitfull having set downe their bounds not farre from Edenburgh at the first they made this hither part reduced already into a Province two-fold to wit the LOVVER and the HIGHER as it is gathered out of Dio. For the hither or neerer part of England together with Wales he termeth the HIGHER the farther and Northern part the LOVVER Which thing the very seats and abiding places of the Legions in Dio do prove The second Legion Augusta ich kept at Caerleon in Wales and the twentieth surnamed Victrix which remained at Chester or Deva he placeth in the Higher Britaine but the Sixth Legion Victrix that was resident at Yorke served as he writeth in the Lower Britaine This division I would suppose was made by the Emperour Severus because Herodian reporteth that hee after hee had vanquished Albinus Generall of the British forces who had usurped the Empire and therewith reformed and set in order the State of Britain divided the government of the Province in two parts betweene two Prefects or Governours After this the Romans did set out the Province of Britaine into three parts as is to be seen out of a manuscript of Sextus Rufus namely into MAXIMA CAESARIENSIS BRITANNIA PRIMA and BRITANNIA SECVNDA Which I take it I have found out by the Bishops and their ancient
Reeds which the Britaines call Hesk wherewith Northerne nations and such are the Britaines thatched and covered their houses yea and fastened together as it were with soder the joynts of their ships But considering that there be no reeds heere found I am not hasty to give credit thereto This river hath his head and springeth first in a weely and barren ground named Exmore neere unto Severn sea a great part whereof is counted within Sommersetshire and wherein there are seene certaine monuments of anticke worke to wit Stones pitched in order some triangle wise others in a round circle and one among the rest with an Inscription in Saxon letters or Danish rather to direct those as it should seeme who were to travaile that way Now this Ex or Isc beginning his course first from thence Southward by Twifordton so called of two foords but commonly Teverton a Towne standing much upon clothing to the great gaine and credit thereof passeth forward through a faire country of good and fertile fields and is augmented with two especial rivelets Creden from the West and Columb from the East Upon Creden in the Primitive Church of the Saxons there flourished an Episcopall See in a Towne of the same name anciently called Cridiantun now by contraction Kirton where that Winifride or Boniface was borne who converted the Hessians Thuringers and Frisians of Germany unto Christ and for that was accounted the Apostle of Germany and canonized a Saint At this present it is of no great reckoning but for a small market and the Bishop of Exceter his house there but within our fathers remembrance of much greater name and request it was for a Colledge there of twelve Prebendaries who now are all vanished and gone The river Columb that commeth from the East passeth hard by Columbton a little Towne bearing his name which King Alfred by his Testament bequeathed to his younger sonne and neere unto Poltimore the seate of that worshipfull and right ancient family of Bampfield intermingleth it selfe with the waters of Ex. And now by this time Isc or Ex growing bigger and sporting himselfe as it were with spreading into many streames very commodious for mils hieth apace and commeth close to the Citie of Excester unto which he leaveth his name whereupon Alexander Necham writeth thus in his Poem of Divine sapience Exoniae fama celeberimus Iscianomen Praebuit To Excester Ex a River of fame First Iscia call'd impos'd the name This Citie Ptolomee calleth ISCA Antoninus ISCA DVNMONIORVM for DANMONIORVM others but falsely Augusta as if the second Legion Augusta had there beene resident Whereas wee shall shew hereafter that it kept station and residence in ISCA SILVRVM The English Saxons termed it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Monketon of the Monks at this day it is called Excester in Latine Exonia in British Caerisk Caeauth and Pencaer that is a head or principall Citie For Caer to tell you once for all with our Britans is as much to say as a Citie whereupon they use to name Jerusalem Caer Salem Lutetia or Paris Caer Paris Rome Caer Ruffaine Thus Carthage in the Punick tongue was called as Solinus witnesseth Cartheia that is the new Citie I have heard likewise that Caer in the Syriack tongue signified a Citie Now seeing that the Syrians as all men confesse peopled the whole world with their Colonies it may seeme probable that they left their tongue also to their posteritie as the mother of all future languages This Citie as saith William of Malmesbury albeit the soile adjoyning bee wet foule and wealie scarce able to bring forth hungry oates and many times emptie huskes without graine in them yet by reason of the statelinesse of the place the riches of the Inhabitants and frequent concourse of strangers all kind of traffique and commerce of merchants is there so fresh that a man can aske there for no necessary but hee may have it Scituate it is on the Eastward banke of the river Ex upon a little hill gently arising with an easie ascent to a pretty heighth the pendant whereof lieth East and West environed about with ditches and very strong walles having many turrets orderly interposed and containeth in circuit a mile and a halfe having suburbs running out a great way on each side In it there are xv Parish-Churches and in the very highest part thereof neere the East gate a Castle called Rugemont sometime the seat of the West Saxon Kings and afterwards of the Earles of Cornwall but at this day commended for nothing else but the antiquitie and scituation thereof For it commandeth the whole Citie and territorie about it and hath a very pleasant prospect into the sea In the East quarter of the City is to be seen the Cathedrall Church in the midst of many faire houses round about it founded as the private history of the place witnesseth by King Athelstan in the honour of Saint Peter and replenished with Monks which Church at length Edward the Confessor after he had remooved some of the Monks from thence to Westminster and translated thither the Bishops Sees of Cornwall and Kirton adorned with Episcopall Dignitie and made Leofrike the Britan first Bishop there whose Successours augmented the Church both with Edifices and also with revenues and William Bruier the ninth Bishop after him when the Monks were displaced brought in a Deane and twentie and foure Prebendaries In which age flourished Joseph Iscanus borne heere and from hence taking his surname a Poet of most excellent wit whose writings were so well approved as that they had equall commendation with the works of ancient Poets For his Poem of the Trojan war was divulged once or twice in Germanie under the name of Cornelius Nepos When this Citie Isca came under the Roman Jurisdiction it appeareth not for certaine For so farre off am I from thinking that Vespasian wonne it as Geffrey of Monmouth affirmeth what time as he warring in Britaine under Claudius the Emperour was shewed by the Destinies unto the world that I thinke it was then scarcely built Yet in the time of the Antonines it may seeme to have beene well knowne for hither and no farther this way did Antonine specifie any place in his way-faring book It came not fully to the English-Saxons hands before the 465. yeare after their entrance into Britain For at that time Athelstane expelled the Britans quite out of the Citie who before had inhabited it in equall right with the Saxons yea and drave them beyond Tamar and then fortified the Citie round about with a rampire and wall of fouresquare stone and other bulwarks for defence Since which time many benefits by the Kings have beene bestowed upon it and among the rest as we read in William the Conquerours booke This Citie paide no tribute but when London Yorke and Winchester paide and that was halfe a marke of silver for a souldiers service And when there was
any expedition set out either by sea or land it served in proportion to five hides It hath beene likewise from time to time much afflicted once spoiled and sore shaken by the furious outrages of the Danes in the yeare of our redemption 875. but most grievously by Suen the Dane in the yeare 1003. at which time by the treacherie of one Hugh a Norman Governor of the citie it was raced and ruined along from the East gate to the West And scarcely began it to flourish againe when William the Conquerour most straightly beleaguered it when the Citizens in the meane while thought it not sufficient to shut their gates against him but malapartly let flie taunts and flouts at him but when a piece of their wall fell downe by the speciall hand of God as the Historians of that age report they yielded immediatly thereupon At which time as we find in the said survey-booke of his The King had in this Citie three hundred houses it paid fifteene pounds by the yeare and fortie houses were destroyed after that the King came into England After this it was thrice besieged and yet it easily avoided all First by Hugh Courtney Earle of Denshire in that civill warre betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke then by Perkin Warbecke that imaginarie counterfeit and pretended Prince who being a young man of a very base condition faining himselfe to be Richard Duke of Yorke the second sonne of King Edward the Fourth stirred up dangerous stirres against Henrie the Seventh thirdly by seditious Rebels of Cornwall in the yeare of Christ 1549 at which time the Citizens most grievously pinched though they were with scarcitie of all things continued neverthelesse in their faith and allegeance untill that Iohn Lord Russell raised the siege and delivered them But Excester received not so great damage at these enemies hands as it did by certaine dammes which they call Weares that Edward Courtney Earle of Denshire taking high displeasure against the Citizens made in the river Ex which stop the passage so that no vessell can come up to the Citie but since that time all merchandize is carried by land from Topesham three miles off And albeit it hath beene decreed by Act of Parliament to take away these Weares yet they continue there still Hereupon the little Towne adjoyning is call Weare being aforetime named Heneaton which was sometime the possession of Augustine de Baa from whom in right of inheritance it descended to Iohn Holland who in his signet which my selfe have seene bare a Lion rampant gardant among flowers de Lys. The civill government of this Citie is in the power of foure and twenty persons out of whom there is from yeare to yeare a Major elected who with foure Bailiffes ruleth heere the State As touching the Geographicall description of this place the old tables of Oxford have set downe the longitude thereof to bee nineteene degrees and eleven scruples the latitude fiftie degrees and fortie scruples or minutes This Citie that I may not omit so much hath had three Dukes For Richard the Second of that name King of England created Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon and his brother by the mothers side the first Duke of Excester whom Henrie the Fourth deposed from this dignitie and left unto him the name onely of Earle of Huntingdon and soone after for conspiracie against the King he lost both it and his life by the hatchet Some few yeares after Henry the Fifth set in his place Thomas Beaufort of the house of Lancaster and Earle of Dorset a right noble and worthy warriour When he was dead leaving no issue behind him John Holland sonne of that aforesaid John as heire unto his brother Richard who died without children and to his father both being restored to his bloud by the favour and bounty of King Henry the Sixth recovered his fathers honor and left the same to Henry his sonne who so long as the Lancastrians stood upright flourished in very much honor but afterwards when the family of Yorke was a float and had rule of all gave an example to teach men how ill trusting it is to great Fortunes For this was that same Henry Duke of Excester who albeit he had wedded King Edward the Fourth his sister was driven to such miserie that he was seene all tottered torne and barefooted to begge for his living in the Low countries And in the end after Barnet field fought wherein he bare himselfe valiantly against Edward the Fourth was no more seene untill his dead bodie as if he had perished by Shipwracke was cast upon the shore of Kent A good while after this Henry Courtney Earle of Denshire the sonne of Katharine daughter to King Edward the Fourth was advanced to the honour of Marquesse of Excester by Henry the Eighth and designed heire apparant But this Marquesse as well as the first Duke was by his high parentage cast into a great tempest of troubles wherein as a man subject to suspitions and desirous of a change in the State he was quickly overthrowne And among other matters because he had with money and counsell assisted Reginald Poole afterwards Cardinall then a fugitive practising with the Emperour and the Pope against his owne Country and the King who had now abrogated the Popes authoritie he was judicially arraigned and being condemned with some others lost his head But now of late by the favour of King Iames Thomas Cecill Lord Burleigh enjoyeth the title of Earle of Excester a right good man and the worthy sonne of so excellent a father being the eldest sonne of William Cecill Lord Burleigh high Treasurer of England whose wisedome for a long time was the support of peace and Englands happy quietnesse From Excester going to the very mouth of the River I find no monument of Antiquitie but Exminster sometime called Exanminster bequeathed by King Elfred to his younger sonne and Pouderham Castle built by Isabell de Ripariis the seat long time of that most noble family of the Courtneys Knights who being lineally descended from the stocke of the Earles of Denshire and allied by affinitie to most honorable houses flourish still at this day most worthy of their descent from so high Ancestors Under Pouderham Ken a pretty brooke entreth into Ex which riseth neere Holcombe where in a Parke is a faire place built by Sir Thomas Denis whose family fetcheth their first off-spring and surname from the Danes and were anciently written Le Dan Denis by which name the Cornish called the Danes But lower upon the very mouth of the river on the other banke side as the name it selfe doth testifie standeth Exanmouth knowne by nothing else but the name and for that some fishermen dwelt therein More Eastward Otterey that is The River of Otters or River-Dogs which we call Otters as may appeare by the signification of the word falleth into the sea which runneth hard under
over-head right daintily which William Knight the Bishop and Wolman the Deane founded for the use of people resorting thither to the Market Thus much of the East-part of the towne In the West-side thereof I have seene the parish Church of Saint Cuthberts next unto which standeth an Hospitall founded by Nicolas Burwith Bishop for foure and twentie poore people Out of those Mendip or Mine-hils springeth the River Frome which running East-ward by Cole-pits before it hath held on a long course that way turneth North-ward and serveth in stead of a bound confining this shire and Gloceste-shire and passeth hard under Farley a Castle not long since of the Lord Hungerfords scituate upon a Rocke where Humfrey Bohun built sometime a Monkerie not farre from Philips Norton a greate Market-towne which tooke the name of a Church consecrate to Saint Philip. Lower than it Selwood whereof I spake erewhile spreadeth long and large a wood standing well and thicke of trees whereof the country round about adjoyning was named as Ethelward mine Author writeth Selwoodshire and a towne steepely seated thereby is yet called Frome Selwood which gaineth very much by the trade of cloathing From which Westward not full two miles there sheweth it selfe a Castle little though it be yet fine and trim consisting of foure round Turrets which being built by the Delamares and named thereupon Monney de la Mare from them came by way of inheritance to the Powlets And not farre from thence is Witham where King Henry the Third erected a Nunnerie which afterward was the first house and as it were mother to the Carthusians or Charter-house Monks in England as Hinton not far off neere Farley Castle was the second And now by this time Frome grown bigger by some rivelets issuing out of this wood joyneth with the noble river Avon which holding on a crooked course runneth anone to that ancient Citie which of the hote Bathes Ptolomee called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Hote waters Antoninus AQVAE SOLIS that is The waters of the Sunne the Britaines Yr ennaint Twymin and Caer Badon the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and of the concourse thither of diseased people Akmanchester that is The Citie of sickely folke Stephanus nameth it Badiza we at this day Bath and the Latinists commonly Bathonia Seated it is low in a plaine and the same not great environed round about with hills almost all of one height out of which certaine rilles of fresh river waters continually descend into the Citie to the great commoditie of the Citizens Within the Citie it selfe there bubble boile up three springs of hote water of a blewish or sea-colour sending up from them thin vapours and a kind of a strong sent withall by reason that the water is drilled and strained through veines of Brimstone and a clammy kind of earth called Bitumen Which springs are very medicinable and of great vertue to cure bodies over-charged and benummed as it were with corrupt humours For by their heat they procure sweat and subdue the rebellious stubbornnesse of the said humors Yet are not they wholesome at all houres For from eight of the clocke in the forenoone unto three after noone they are in manner skalding hote and doe worke and being thus troubled cast up from the bottome certaine filth during which time they are shut neither may any body goe into them untill by their sluces they clense themselves and rid away that filthinesse Of these three The Crosse Bath so called of a crosse standing upright in old time in the midst of it is of a very mild and temperate warmth and hath twelve seates of stone about the brinke or border thereof and is enclosed within a wall The second distant from this not fully 200. foot is much hotter whereupon it is termed Hote Bathe Adjoyning to these is a Spittle or Lazar house built by Reginald Bishop of Bath for the reliefe of poore diseased persons And those two are in the midst of a Street on the West-side of the Citie The third which is the greatest and after a sort in the very bosome and heart of the Citie is called the Kings Bath neere unto the Cathedrall Church walled also round about and fitted with 32. seates of arched worke wherein men and women may sit apart who when they enter in put upon their bodies linnen garments and have their guides Where the said Cathedrall Church now standeth there was in ancient time as the report goeth a Temple consecrated to Minerva Certes Solinus Polyhistor speaking no doubt of these hote Bathes saith thus In Britaine there are hot springs very daintily adorned and kept for mens use the patronesse of which fountaines is the Goddesse Minerva in whose Temple the perpetuall fire never turneth ashes and dead coales but when the fire beginneth to die it turnes into round masses of stone Howbeit Athenaeus writeth that all hote Bathes which naturally breake out of the bowels of the earth are sacred to Hercules And in very deede there is to bee seene in the walles of this Citie an ancient Image such as it is of Hercules grasping in his hand a Snake among other old monuments by the injurie of time now altogether defaced But that we may not contend about this matter let us grant if it be so thought good that Bathes were consecrated to Hercules and Minerva joyntly For the Greekes doe write that Pallas first ministred water unto Hercules for to bath him after he had atchieved his labours For my purpose it shall suffice if I be able to prove by the authoritie of Solinus who writeth that Pallas was the Patronesse of these Bathes this Citie to be the same which the Britans in their tongue called Caer Palladdur that is The Citie of Pallas-water or Vrbs Palladiae Aquae if a man turne it into Latine For the matter the name and signification doe most fitly agree The finding out of these Bathes our Fables attribute to the King of Britans Bleyden Cloyth that is Bleyden the Magician but with what probabilitie that I leave to others Plinie indeed affirmeth that the Britans in old time used the practice of magick with so great ceremonies that it seemed they taught it the Persians yet dare I not ascribe these Bathes to any art magicall Some of our writers when their minds were busied in other matters report Iulius Caesar to have beene the first finder of them But my opinion is that later it was ere the Romans had knowledge of them seeing Solinus is the first that hath made mention of them The English-Saxons about the 44. yeare after their comming into Britaine when they had broken league and covenant and kindled againe the coales of war which had already beene quenched besieged this Citie But when the warlike Arthur came upon them they tooke the hill named Mons Badâ—nicus where when couragiously a long while they had fought it out to the uttermost a great number of them
gently runneth which breaking forth almost in the North limit of this shire keepeth his course southward and as Aethelward noteth was sometime the bound betweene the Kingdoms of the West-Saxons and the Mercians upon which many great battels from time to time were fought whiles it is but small he slideth under Malmesbury hill and receiving another streame well neare encloseth the place A very proper towne this is and hath a great name for clothing which as wee read in the Eulogie of Histories Cunwallow Mulmutius King of the Britaines built together with Lacok and Tetburie two Castles and named it Caer Baldon which being at length by heat of warres destroyed out of the ruines thereof there arose as writers record a Castle which our Ancestors in their tongue called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 at which time the Saxon petie Kings had their royall palace at Caerdurburge now Brokenbridge a little village scarce a mile off Neither verily was this towne for a long time knowne by any other name than Ingelborne untill one Maidulph an Irish Scot a man of great learning and singular holinesse of life taking delight to a pleasant grove that grew up heere under the hill lived for a time a solitary Heremite there and afterwards teaching a Schoole and with his schollers betaking himselfe to a monasticall life built him a little monasterie or Cell From this time of that Maidulph the towne began to bee called Maidulfesburge for Ingleborne termed by Beda Maidulphi Vrbs that is Maidulps Citie and afterwards short Malmesburies and in some of our Histories and ancient Donations made unto this place Meldunum Malduburie and Maldunsburg Among the Disciples of this Maidulph flourished chiefely Aldelme who being elected his successour by the helpe of Eleutherius Bishop of the West-Saxons unto whom the place of right belonged built there a very faire Monasterie and was himselfe the first Abbat thereof of whom also in a certaine manuscript this towne is called Aldelmesbirig But this name soone perished yet the memorie of the man continueth still for canonized he was a Saint and on his festivall day there was heere kept a great Faire at which usuall there is a band of armed men appointed to keepe the peace among so many strangers resorting thither And right worthy is he that his memorie should remaine fresh for ever in regard not onely of his Holinesse but of his learning also as those times were For the first he was of the English nation who wrote in Latine and the first that taught Englishmen the way how to make a Latine verse the which in these verses hee both promised of himselfe and performed Primus ego in patriam mecum modo vita supersit Aonio rediens deducam vertice Musas I will be first God lending life that into country mine From Aon top at my returne shall bring the Muses nine This Adelme after his death Athelstane that Noble Prince chose to be his peculiar protector and tutelar Saint and for that cause bestowed very great immunities upon this towne and enriched the monasterie with a large and ample endowments In which he made choise to bee buried and his monument the Inhabitants shew to this day After Athelstane this Monasterie flourished long in continuall wealth and among other famous Clerks and great Scholars brought forth William surnamed thereof Malmesburiensis unto whom for his learned industry the Histories of England both Civill and Ecclesiasticall are deepely indebted The towne also maintained and upholden as it were by the meanes of the Monasterie was likewise fortified by Roger Bishop of Salisburie who in the beginning of the warres betweene Henrie of Anjou and King Stephen strengthned it with walls and a Castle which being once besieged by King Henrie the Second defended it selfe Moreover that magnificent Bishop both here and at Salisburie built houses for receit very large for cost as sumptuous and for shew right beautifull so even and orderly were the stones couched and laid together that the joynts could not be seene and the whole wall throughout seemed to the eie one entire stone But the Castle not many yeares after by K. Iohns permission was pulled downe to the use of the Monkes for enlarging their monasterie who encreased it still continually both in buildings livings and revenue untill that fatall thunder-clap overthrew all the Monasteries of England Then their lands rents and riches that had beene so many yeares in gathering and heaping up together which were as our Forefathers reputed them The vowes of the faithfull the ransome and redemption of sinnes and the patrimonies of poore people were quite scattered and the very Minster it selfe should have sped no better than the rest but beene demolished had not T. Stumpes a wealthy clothier by much suit but with a greater piece of money redeemed and bought it for the townesmen his neighbours by whom it was converted to a Parish-Church and for a great part is yet standing at this day From this Maiduphus Citie or Malmesburie as Avon runneth it commeth to Dantesey that gave name unto the possessions thereof worshipfull Knights of old time in this tract from whom by the Easterlings commonly called Stradlings it came unto the family of the Danvers Out of which Henry Danvers through the favor of King Iames obtained of late the title and honour of Baron Danvers of Dantesey Sixe miles from hence Avon taketh unto him from the East a Brooke which runneth through Calne an old little towne scituate upon a stony ground having in it a faire Church to commend it at which place when great adoe there was betweene the Monkes and Priests about single life a frequent Provinciall Councell or Synod was holden in the yeare of our redemption 977. But behold whiles they were debating the matter the Convocation house wherein the States sat by breaking of the maine timber-worke and falling asunder of the floore fell suddenly downe together with the Prelates Nobles and Gentlemen there assembled with the fall whereof many were hurt and more slaine outright onely Dunstane President of the said Counsell and held with the Monkes escaped without harme which miracle for so that age took it is thought wonderfully to have credited the profession of Monkerie and weakened the cause of married Priests From hence Avon now growne greater Chippenham in Saxon Cyppanham of note at this day for the market there kept whereof it tooke the name For Cyppan in the Saxon tongue is as much to say as to buy and Cyppman a buyer like as with us Cheapen and Chapman and among the Germans Coppman But in those daies it was the Kings manour and by King Elfred in his testament bequeathed to a younger daughter of his Nothing is there now worth the sight but the Church built by the Barons Hungerford as appeareth every where by their coats of Armes set up thereon Directly over against this but somewhat farther from the banke lieth Cosham
and exposed to the enemie King Henrie the Eighth began to strengthen it with forts for in that foreland or promontorie shooting farre into the sea From whence we have the shortest cut into the Isle of Wight hee built Hurst Castle which commandeth sea ward every way And more toward the East hee set up also another fortresse or blockhouse they name it Calshot Castle for Caldshore to defend the entrie of Southhampton Haven as more inwardly on the other are the two Castles of S. Andrew and Netly For heere the shores retiring as it were themselves a great way backe into the land and the Isle of Wight also butting full upon it doe make a very good harbour which Ptolomee calleth The mouth of the river Trisanton as I take it for Traith Anton that is Anton Bay For Ninnius an old writer giveth it almost the same name when he termeth it Trahannon mouth As for the river running into it at this day is called Test it was in the foregoing age as wee reade in the Saints lives named Terstan and in old time Ant or Anton as the townes standing upon it namely Ant port Andover and Hanton in some sort doe testifie So farre am I of pardon me from thinking that it tooke the name of one Hamon a Roman a name not used among Romans who should be there slaine And yet Geffrey of Monmouth telleth such a tale and a Poet likewise his follower who pretily maketh these verses of Hamon Ruit huc illucque ruentem Occupat Arviragus ejusque in margine ripae Amputat ense caput nomen tenet inde perempti Hammonis Portus longumque tenebit in aevum Whiles Hamon rusheth here and there within the thickest ranke Arviragus encountreth him and on the rivers banke With sword in hand strikes of his head the place of him thus slaine Thence forth is named Hamons-Haven and long shall so remaine But upon this Haven standeth South-hanpton a little Citie neeere unto which on the North-east there flourished in old time another of that name which may seeme to be Antonine his CLAVSENTVM by the distance of it as well on the one side from Ringwood as from Venta on the other And as Trisanton in the British language signifieth the Bay of Anton so Glausentum in the same tongue is as much as the Haven of Entum For I have heard that Claudh among the Britans is that which the Graecians call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a forced Haven made by digging and casting up the earth Now that this place was called Hanton and Henton no man needs to doubt seeing in that booke wherein King William the first made a survey of all England this whole shire is expressely named Hanscyre and in some places Hentscyre and the very towne it selfe for the South scituation of it Southâ—hanton What manner of towne that Clausentum was it is hard to say but seated it was in that place where the field is which now they call S. Maries and reached even to the Haven and may seeme also to have taken up the other banke or strand of the river For a little above at Bittern over against it Francis Mills a right honest gentleman there dwelling shewed unto me the rubbish old broken walls and trenches of an ancient castle which carrieth halfe a mile in compasse and at every tide is compassed for three parts of it with water a great breadth The Romane Emperors ancient coines now and then there digged up doe so evidently prove the antiquity thereof that if it were not the Castle of old Clausentum you would judge it to be one of those forts or fences which the Romans planted upon the South coast of the Ocean to represse as Gildas writeth the piracies and depredations of the Saxons When all became wasted by the Danish warres old Hanton also was left as a prey in the yeere of our Lord 980. to be sacked and rifled by them and King William the Conqueror in his time had in it but fourescore men and no more in his demaine But above 200. yeeres since when Edward the Third King of England and Philip Valois bustled for the very Kingdome of France it was fired by the French and burnt to the gound Out of the ashes whereof presently sprung the towne which now is to be seene but situate in a more commodious place betweene two rivers for number of houses and those faire built much renowned for rich Inhabitants concourse of merchants wealthy fenced round about with a double ditch strong wals and turrets standing thicke betweene and for defence of the Haven a right strong Castle it hath of square stone upon a Mount cast up to a great height built by King Richard the Second And afterward King Henrie the Sixt granted to the Major Balives and Burgesses that it should be a Countie by it selfe with other liberties Memorable is that of the most puissant Canutus King of England and of Denmarke by which he in this place repressed a flatterer who bare the King in hand that all things in the Realme were at his will and command He commanded saith Henrie of Huntingdon that his chaire should be set on the shore when the sea began to flow And then in the presence of many said he to the sea as it flowed Thou art part of my Dominion and the ground on which I sit is mine neither was there ever any that durst disobey my commandement and went away free and unpunished Wherefore I charge thee that thou come not upon my land neither that thou wet the clothes or body of thy Lord. But the sea according to his usuall course flowing still without any reverence of his person wet his feet Then he retiring backe said Let all the Inhabitants of the world know that vaine and frivolous is the power of Kings and that none is worthy the name of King but hee to whose command the heaven earth and sea by bond of an evelasting law are subject and obedient and never after that time set hee the crowne upon his head c. Of those two rivers betweene which this South anton standeth that in the West now called Test and in times past Anton as I suppose springing out of the forrest of Chate goeth first to Andover which in the Saxon language is 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The passage or Ferry over And where in the yeare of our salvation 893. Aetheldred King of England when the Danes harried and spoiled his Kingdome on every side to the end that hee might at length refresh and cherish his weakened and wearied countries with sure and quiet peace inserted into his owne familie by way of adoption Aulaf the Dane which not withstanding soone after tooke small or none effect For this great honour done to the barbabrous Dane could not reclaime and stay his minde from rapine and spoyling still From thence it runneth downe and receiveth from the East a brooke passing by Bullingdon in whose parish is a
place called Tibury hill and containeth a square field by estimation of ten acres ditched about in some places deeper than other wherein hath beene found tokens of Wells and about which the ploughmen have found squared stones and Roman coines as they report for the place I have not seene This brooke entreth into Test neere Worwhell where Queene Aelfrith built a Monasterie to expiate and make satisfaction for that most foule and heinous fact wherewith so wickedly she had charged her soule by making away King Edward her husbands son as also to wash out the murthering of her former husband Aethelwold a most noble Earle whom King Edgar trained forth hither a hunting and then strake him through with a dart because hee had deluded him in his love secrets and by deceitfull and naughtie meanes prevented him and gotten for himself this same Aelfrith the most beautifull Lady that was in those daies After this Test having taken into it a little river from Wallop or more truly Well-hop that is by interpretation out of our forefathers ancient language A prety well in the side of an hill whereof that right worshipfull familie of the Wallops of Knights degree dwelling hard by tooke name seeketh for BRIGE or BRAGE an ancient towne likewise placed by Antonine nine miles from Sorbiodunum at which distance betweene Salisburie and Winchester he findeth not farre from his banke Broughton a small country towne which if it were not that BRAGE I verily believe it was then utterly destroyed when William of Normandie laid all even with the ground heere abouts to make that forrest before mentioned Then goeth this river to see Rumsey in Saxon speech Rum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 A nunnery founded by King Edgar the large Church whereof yet standeth out of the which Mary daughter of King Stephen being there Abbesse and his only heire surviving was conveied secretly by Mathew of Alsace sonne to the Earle of Flanders and to him married But after she had borne to him two daughters was enforced by sentence of the Church to returne hither again according to her vow Thence glideth this water straight into Anton Haven at Arundinis Vadum as Bede called it and interpreteth it himselfe Reedeford but now of the bridge where the foard was named for Redeford Sedbridge where at the first springing up of the English Saxon Church there flourished a Monasterie the Abbat whereof Cymbreth as Bede writeth baptized the two brethren being very little ones of Arvandus the pettie King of Wight even as they were ready to be put to death For when Cedwalla the Saxon set upon the Isle of Wight these small children to save their lives fled to a little town called Ad lapidem and hid themselves there untill at length being betraied they were at Cedwallaes commandement killed If you aske mee what this little towne Ad lapidem should bee I would say it were Stonâ—ham a small village next to Redebridge which the very signification of the name may evidently prove for mee The other river that runneth forth at the East-side of Southhampton may seeme to have beene called Alre For the mercate towne standing upon the banke thereof not farre from ponds out of which it issueth is called Alres-ford that is The foard of Alre This towne to use the words of an old Record of Winchester Kinewalce the religious King instructed in the Sacraments of faith by the Bishop Birinus at the very beginning of Christian religion in this tract with great devotion of heart gave unto the Church of God at Wenta In the yeare of grace 1220. Godfrey Lucy Bishop of Winchester made a new market place heere and called it Novum forum that is New mercate in regard haply of old Alres-ford adjoyning thereto But this new aime continued not long with the people who in the matter of speech carry the greatest stroke Neere heereunto is Tichburne which I must not omit for that it hath given name to a worshipfull and ancient familie Vpon the West banke of this river is scituate the most famous Citie of the British Belgians called by Ptolomee and Antoninus Venta Belgarum by the Britaine 's of Wales even at this day Caer Gwent by the Saxons in old time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in Latine commonly Wintonia and by us in these daies of Winchester Yet there bee some which affirme this to be Venta Simenorum and do grace Bristow with the name of Venta Belgarum But that there were never any Simeni at all in this Island I will prove when I come to the Iceni In the meane season though they should seeke all the townes that Antoninus placeth on every side in the way to or from VENTA BELGARVM as narrowly as Emmots paths yet shall they find nothing for their purpose to make good this their assertion The Etymologie of this name Venta some fetch from Ventus that is Wind others from Vinum that is Wine and some againe from Wina a Bishop who all of them be farre wide and should doe well to pray for better judgement Yet like I rather the opinion of Leland who hath derived it from the British word Guin or Guen that is White so that Caer Guin should signifie as much as the White Citie And why not seing the old Latines named these their Cities Alba longa and Alba regia of whitenesse yea and the Grecians also had their Leuca Leucas and other nations also many places taking name of whitenesse For this Venta like as the other two of the same name to wit VENTA SILVRVM and VENTA ICENORVM are seated all three in a soile that standeth upon chalke and a whitish clay A Citie it was no doubt flourishing even in the Romans times as in which the Emperours of Rome seeme to have had their sacred of houses weaving and embroidering peculiar to their owne persons and uses seeing among all the VENTAS in Britaine it was both the chiefe and also nearest unto Italie For in the booke of Notitiae mention is made of the Procurator Master or Governour Cynegii VENTENSIS or BENTENSIS in Britaine where the onely flowre of Lawyers Iames Cujacius readeth Cynaecii and in his Paratitles upon the Code interpreteth it Sacrum textrinum that is The sacred workhouse or shop of embroidering and weaving And right of his mind is Guidus Pancirolus who writeth that those Gynaecia were instituted for the weaving of the Princes and souldiers garments of Ship-sailes of linnen sheetes or covering and such like cloaths necessarie for the furniture of mansions But Wolfangus Lazius was of opinion that that the Procurator aforesaid had the charge heere of the Emperours dogs And to say truth of all the dogs in Europe ours beare the name in so much as Strabo witnesseth our dogges served as souldiers and the ancient Galles made speciall use of them even in their wars And of all others they were in most request both for those baitings in the Amphitheaters and also in all
other publique huntings among the Romans For as the same Strabo writeth they were 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is of a generous kind and framed naturally for hunting Whereupon Nemesianus wrote thus divisa Britannia mittit Veloces nostrique orbis venatibus aptos Though Britaine from this world of ours doth lie secluded farre Swift hounds it sends which for our game most fitly framed are Gratius also of their price and excellencie saith thus Quod freta si Morinûm dubiâ— refluentia ponto Veneris atque ipsos libeat penetrare Britannos O quanta est merces quantum impendia supra If that to Calice-streights you goe Where tides uncertaine ebbe and flow And list to venture further more Crossing the seas to British shore What meede would come to quite your paines What overdeale beside of gaines Yea and that very dog with us which of the old name Agasaeus we call yet at this day a Gasehound those ancient Greekes both knew and also had in great price And this will Oppian in his first booke of his Cynegeticks tell you in these Greeke verses 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Which Bodine turned into Latine thes Est etiam catuli species indagine clara Corpus huic breve magnifico sed corpore digna Picta Britannorum gens illos effera bello Nutrit Agasaeosque vocat vilissima forma Corporis ut credas parasitos esse latrantes And may be Englished in this wise Stout hounds there are and those of finders kind Of bodie small but doughtie for their deed The painted folke fierce Britans as we find Them Gasehounds call for they with them doe breed In making like house dogs or at a word To lickerous curs that craven at our bord Claudian also touching our Mastives writeth in this sort Magnaque taurorum fracturi colla Britanni And British mastives downe that puls Or breake the necks of sturdy bulls I have too far digressed about dogges yet hope a favourable pardon In this Citie as our owne Historiographers doe report in the time of the Romans was that Constans the Monke who by his father Constantine was first elect Caesar and afterwards Augustus that Constantine I say who upon hope of this name had assumed the Imperiall purple roabe that is usurped the Empire against Honorius For long since as Zosinus recordeth speaking of those times as well in villages as in Cities there were great colledges peopled as it were with Monks who before time â—â—ying the light lived scattering heere and there among mountaines woods and forrests all solitary by themselues whereof also they were so called Now of this Colledge wherein the said Constans was those old broken walles which are seene of that thicknesse and strength at the West-gate of the Cathedrall Church may seeme to be the ruines and reliques But this imperiall Monke taken out from hence suffered soone after condigne punishment both for his fathers ambition and also for the contempt of his professed religion During the Heptarchie of the Saxons this Citie albeit once or twice it suffered much calamity and miserie yet it revived and recovered againe yea and became the seat royall of the West-Saxons Kings adorned with magnificent Churches and a Bishops See furnished likewise with six mint houses by King Aethelstane In the Normans time also it flourished very much and in it was erected an office for keeping of all publike records and evidences of the Realme In which prosperous estate it continued a long time but that once or twice it was defaced by misfortune of suddaine fires and in the civill war betweene Stephen and Maude about the Kingdome of England lacked by the unruly and insolent souldiers Whereupon Necham our countriman who lived in that age writeth thus Guintoniam titulis claram gazisque repletam Noverunt veterum tempora prisca patrum Sed tam sacra fames auri jam caecus habendi Vrbibus egregiis parcere nescit amor Our ancestours knew Winchester sometimes a goodly Towne In treasure rich and plentifull in name of great renowne But now for hunger after gold our men so greedy are That even such Cities excellent they know not how to spare But of these losses it recovered it selfe by the helpe of Edward the third who heere appointed the Mart for wooll and cloth which we commonly call the Staple What was the face and outward shew of this Citie in these foregoing times a man can hardly tell considering that as the said Necham writeth Flammis toties gens aliena dedit Hinc facies urbis toties mutata dolorem Praetendit casus nuntia vera sui So many times a nation strange Hath fir'd this towne and made such change That now her face and outward hue Her griefe bewray's and tels full true In these daies of ours it is indifferently well peopled and frequented having water plentie by reason of the River turned and conveighed divers waies into it lying somewhat in length from East to West and containeth about a mile and a halfe in circuit within the walls which open at sixe gates and have every one of them their suburbs reaching forth without a good way On the South side of the West gate there mounteth up an old Castle which oftentimes hath beene besieged but most sore and straightly above the rest what time as Mawd the Empresse held it against King Stephen and at length by a rumour given out that she was dead and causing her selfe to be caried out in a coffin like a course deceived the enemie As concerning that round table there hanging up against the wall which the common sort useth to gaze upon with great admiration as if it had beene King Arthurs table I have nothing to say but this That as a man which vieweth it well may easily perceive it is nothing so ancient as King Arthur For in latter times when for the exercise of armes and feates of warlike prowesse those runnings at tilt and martiall justlings or torneaments were much practised they used such tables least any contention or offence for prioritie of place should through ambition arise among Nobles and Knights assembled together And this was a custome of great antiquitie as it may seeme For the ancient Gaules as Athenaeus writeth were wont to sit about round tables and their Esquires stood at their backes holding their shields About the midst of the citie but more inclining to the South Kenelwalch King of the West-Saxons after the subversion of that Colledge of Monkes which flourished in the Romans time as William of Malmesburie saith First founded to the glory of God the fairest Church that was in those daies in which very place the posteritie afterwards in building of a Cathedrall seate for the Bishop although it were more stately than the first yet followed just in the very same steps In this See there have
they boyle untill it bee exceeding white And of this sea or Bay-salt and not of ours made out of salt springs is Saint Ambrose to bee understood when hee writeth thus Consider we those things which are usuall with many very grace-full namely how water is turned into salt of such hardnesse and soliditie that often-times it is hewed with axes This in the salts of Britaine is no wonder as which carrying a shew of strong marble doe shine and glitter againe with the whitenesse of the same mettall like unto snow and bee holesome to the bodie c. Farther within the land the MEANVARI dwelt whose countrey togither with the Isle of Wight Edilwalch King of the South Saxons received in token of Adoption from Wlpher King of Mercians Godfather unto him at the Font when he was baptized The habitations of these Meanvari scarce changing the name at this day is divided into three hundreds to wit Means-borow East-mean and West-mean and amongst them there mounteth up an high Hill environed in the top with a large rampier and they call it old Winchester at which by report there stood in old time a citie but now neither top nor toe as they say remaineth of it so as a man would quickly judge it to have beene a summer standing campe and nothing else Under this is Warnford seated where Adam de Portu a mightie man in this tract and of great wealth in the raigne of William the first reedified the Church a new as a couple of rude verses set fast upon the wall doe plainly shew Upon these more high into the land those SEGONTIACI who yeilded themselves unto Iulius Caesar had their seate toward the North limite of this shire in and about the hundred of Holeshot wherein are to bee seene Mercate Aultim which King Elfred bequeathed by his will unto the keeper of Leodre also Basingstoke a mercate towne well frequented upon the descent of an hill on the North side whereof standeth solitarie a very faire Chappell consecrated unto the holy Ghost by William the first Lord Sands who was buried there In the arched and embowed roofe whereof is to be seene the holy history of the Bible painted most artificially with lively portraicts and images representing the Prophets the Apostles and the Disciples of Christ. Beneath this Eastward lieth Basing a towne very well knowne by reason of the Lords bearing the name of it to wit Saint Iohn the Poinings and the Powlets For when Adam de Portu Lord of Basing matched in marriage with the daughter and heire of Roger de Aurevall whose wife was likewise daughter and heire to the right noble house of Saint Iohn William his sonne to doe honour unto that familie assumed to him the surname of Saint Iohn and they who lineally descended from him have still retained the same But when Edmund Saint Iohn departed out of this world without issue in King Edward the third his time his sister Margaret bettered the state of her husband Iohn Saint Philibert with the possessions of the Lord Saint Iohn And when she was dead without children Isabell the other sister wife unto Sir Luke Poinings bare unto him Thomas Lord of Basing whose Neice Constance by his sonne Hugh unto whom this fell for her childs part of Inheritance was wedded into the familie of the Powlets and she was great Grandmother to that Sir William Powlet who being made Baron Saint Iohn of Basing by King Henrie the Eighth and created by King Edward the Sixth first Earle of Wilshire and afterward Marquesse of Winchester and withall was Lord Treasurer of England having in a troublesome time runne through the highest honours fulfilled the course of nature with the satietie of this life and that in great prosperitie as a rare blessing among Courtiers after he had built a most sumptuous house heere for the spacious largenesse thereof admirable to the beholders untill for the great and chargeable reparations his successors pulled downe a good part of it But of him I have spoken before Neere unto this house the Vine sheweth it selfe a very faire place and Mansion house of the Baron Sands so named of the vines there which wee have had in Britaine since Probus the Emperours time rather for shade than fruit For hee permitted the Britaines and others to have vines The first of these Barons was Sir William Sands whom King Henrie the Eighth advanced to that dignitie being Lord Chamberlaine unto him and having much amended his estate by marrying Margerie Bray daughter and heire of Iohn Bray and cousin to Sir Reinold Bray a most worthy Knight of the Order of the Garter and a right noble Baneret whose Sonne Thomas Lord Sands was Grandfather to William L. Sands that now liveth Neighbouring hereunto is Odiam glorious in these daies for the Kings house there and famous for that David the Second King of Scots was there imprisoned a Burrough corporate belonging in times past to the Bishop of Winchester the fortresse whereof in the name of King John thirteene Englishmen for fifteene daies defended most valiantly and made good against Lewis of France who with his whole armie besieged and asted it very hotly A little above among these Segontiaci toward the North side of the countrey somtimes stood VINDONVM the chiefe citie of the Segontiaci which casting off his owne name hath taken the name of the Nation like as Luteria hath assumed unto it the name of the Parisians there inhabiting for called it was by the Britaines Caer Segonte that is to say the Citie of the Segontiaci And so Ninnius in his catalogue of cities named it wee at this day called it Silecester and Higden seemeth to clepe it of the Britaines Britenden that this was the ancient Vindonum I am induced to thinke by reason of the distance of Vindonum in Antoninus from Gallena or Guallenford and Venta or Winchester and the rather because betweene this Vindonum and Venta there is still to bee seene a causey or street-way Ninnius recordeth that it was built by Constantius the sonne of Constantine the Great and called sometime Murimintum haply for Muri-vindum that is the wals of Vindon For this word Mur borrowed from the provinciall language the Britaines retained still and V. the consonant they change oftentimes in their speech and writing into M. And to use the verie words of Asinnius though they seeme ridiculous the said Constantius sowed upon the soile of this citie three seedes that none should be poore that dwelt therein at any time Like as Dinocrates when Alexandria in Egypt was a building strewed it with meale or flower as Marcellinus writeth all the circular lines of the draught which being done by chance was taken for a fore-token that the citie should abound with al manner of victualls He reporteth also that Constantius died here and that his Sepulchre was to be seene at one of the gates as the Inscription
in the North side to the river Tamis King Offa usurped and seized into his owne hands Neere unto it Northwest lieth Lee which by the daughter of a certaine worshipfull Knight surnamed thereupon de Lee fell to the familie of Besiles and thereof it came to bee called Besiles Lee and from that house in right of marriage to Richard Fetiplace whose Progenitor Thomas brought some honor to his posterity by matching with Beatrice the base daughter of Iohn the first King of Portugall and widdow to Gilbert Lord Talbot of whom they are descended But now let us returne Hard by Abendon Ocke a little river that runneth by the South side of the towne over which in times past Sir Iohn of Saint Helenes Knight built a bridge gently falleth into Isis This Ocke springeth in that vale of Whitehorse scarce a mile or two from Kingston-Lisle in olde time the possession of Warin de Insulâ or Lisle a noble Baron From whom when as Sir Iohn Talbot the younger sonne of that renowned warrior Iohn Earle of Shrewsburie was descended by his mother hee was created by King Henrie the Sixth Lord Lisle like as Warin de Insula in times past in regard of the possession of this place as if that dignity were annexed thereto and afterwards Vicount Lisle by a Patent without any such regard This title through the gratious favor of Kings flourished still in his posterity one after another successively For breifly to knit up their succession When Sir Thomas Talbot sonne of the said Iohn departed this life without issue beeing deadly shot into the mouth with an arrow in a skirmish defending his possessions against the Lord Barkley Sir Edward Grey who had married his sister received the same at the hands of King Richard the third and left it to Iohn his sonne and successour Whose onely daughter and heire King Henrie the Eighth assured to Sir Charles Brandon and thereupon created him Vicount Lisle But when as shee died in tender yeeres before the marriage was solemnized hee also relinquished that title Which King Henrie afterward bestowed upon Sir Arthur Plantagenet base sonne to King Edward the fourth Who had wedded Elizabeth sister to Sir Iohn Grey Vicount Lisle and widdow of Edmund Dudley And when hee deceased without heires male the said King honoured therewith Sir Iohn Dudley sonne of Edmund by the same Elizabeth Grey who in the time of King Edward the sixth was created Duke of Northumberland and afterward attainted by Queene Marie His sonne Sir Ambrose Dudley beeing restored in bloud was by Queene Elizabeth on one and the selfe same day created Lord Lisle and Earle of Warwicke who ended his life issuelesse And now lately Sir Robert Sidney his sisters sonne was honoured with the stile of Vicoun Lisle by King Iames who had before created him beeing Chamberlaine to the Queene his wife Baron Sidney of Pensherst Then runneth the river Ocke aforesaid betweene Pusey which they that are named de Pusey hold it yet by the horn from their ancestors as given unto them in ancient time by K. Canutus the Dane and the two Dencheworths the one and the other where flourished for a long time two noble and auncient houses to wit de Hide at the one and Fetiplace at the other which families may seeme to have sprung out of one and the same stocke considering they both beare one and the same coat of armes Then entertaineth Ock a namelesse river which issueth out of the same vale at Wantage called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 where some time there was a Manour house of the Kings and the place wherein Aelfred that most noble and renowned King was borne and bred which at his death he bequeathed to Alfrith Long time after it became a mercate towne by the meanes and helpe of Sir Fulke Fitzwarin that most warlike Knight upon whom Roger Bigod Mareschall of England had bestowed it for his martiall prowesse and at this daie it acknowledgeth for Lords thereof the Bourchiers Earles of Bath descended from the race of the Fitzwarins of whose familie some were here buried Isis being departed once from Abbendon straight waies receiveth into it out of Oxfordshire the river Tame of which elsewhere and now by a compound word being called Tamisis first directeth his course to Sinodun an high hill and fenced with a deepe trench were stood for certaine in old time a fortresse of the Romanes for the ground being now broken up with the plough yeeldeth otherwhiles to the ploughmen store of Roman pieces of coine as tokens of antiquitie Under it at Bretwell there was a Castle if it were not that upon this hill which King Henry the Second wonne by force a little before that he made peace with King Stephen From hence Tamis holdeth on his way to the chiefe Citie in times past of the Attrebatians which Antonius termeth GALLEVA of Attrebats Ptolomee GALEVA but both of them through the carelessnesse of the Scriveners name it wrong for GALLENA and they likewise in their Greeke copies have thrust upon us 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for Gallena by transposition of letters I have thought it was so named in the British tongue as it were Guall hen that is The old rampier or fort Which name being still kept and Ford added thereto which is a shallow place in the river the Englishmen in old time called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we at this day shorter Wallengford In King Edward the Confessors time it was counted a Burgh and contained as we find in that Book wherein K. William the Frst tooke the Survey of all England two hundred threescore and sixteene Hages that is to say Houses yielding nine pounds de Gablo and those that dwelt there did the King service on horsebacke or by water Of those Hages eight were destroyed for the Castle In old time it was compassed about with walles which as men may see by their tract tooke up a mile in circuit It hath a Castle scituate upon the river very large I assure you and stately so fortitified in times past that the hope in it as impregnable and invincible made divers over-bold and stout For when England burned as a man may say in a generall flame of warres we read that it was by King Stephen belaied once or twise with sieges but all in vaine The greatnesse and magnificence thereof I much wondered at when I was young and removed thither from Oxford for a place it is now for the Students there of Christ Church to retire unto as having a double range of walles about it and being compassed round likewise with a duple rampier and ditch and in the midst of it there standeth a tower to keepe raised upon a mightie high mount in the steepe ascent whereof by steps we saw a Well of an exceeding depth The Inhabitants are verily perswaded that it
small trouble and labour about it and when he had hanged all the rest that he found therein he sent the wife and sonnes of Bartholmew aforesaid to the Tower of London Thus Medway having received this rivelet from Leeds fetching about through good grounds rūneth by Allington sometime a castle now lesse than a castellet where Sir T. Wyat the elder a worthy learned knight reedified a faire house now decaied whose son Sr. Thomas enriched by an heire of Sir T. Haut proposing to himself great hopes upō fair pretēses pitifully overthrew himself his state Hence commeth Medway to Ailsford in the old English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which H. of Huntingdon calleth Elstre Ninnius Episford who hath written that it was named in the British tongue Saissenaeg haibail of the Saxons there vanquished like as others in the very same sense termed it Anglesford For Guortemere the Britaine Guortigerns sonne did here set upon Hengist and the English Saxons whom being disraied and not able to abide a second charge he put all to flight so as they had beene utterly defeated for ever but that Hengist skil-full and provident to prevent and divert danger withdrew himselfe into the Isle of Tenet untill that invincible vigour and heat of the Britanes were allaied and fresh supplies came to his succour out of Germanie In this Battaile were slaine the Generalls of both sides Catigern the Britaine and Horsa the Saxon of whom the one buried at Horsted not farre from hence gave name to the place and Catigern honored with a stately and solemne funerall is thought to have beene enterred neere unto Ailesford where under the side of a hill I saw foure huge rude hard stones erected two for the sides one transversall in the middest betweene them and the hugest of all piled and laied over them in manner of the British monument which is called Stone heng but not so artificially with mortis and tenents Verily the unskilfull common people terme it at this day of the same Catigern Keiths or Kits Coty house In Ailsford it selfe for the religious house of the Carmelites founded by Richard Lord Grey of Codnor in the time of King Henrie the Third is now seene a faire habitation of Sir William Siddey a learned Knight painefully and expensfully studious of the common good of his country as both his endowed house for the poore and the bridge heere with the common voice doe plentifully testifie Neither is Boxley neere adjoyning to bee passed over in silence where William de Ipres in Flaunders Earle of Kent founded an Abbey in the yeare of our Lord 1145. and translated thither the Monkes from Clarevalle in Burgundie Medway having wound himselfe higher from the East receiveth a brooke springing neare Wrotham or Wirtham so named for plentie of wortes where the Archbishops had a place untill Simon Islep pulled it downe leaveth Malling which grew to bee a towne after Gundulph Bishop of Rochester had there founded an Abbey of Nunnes and watereth Leibourn which hath a Castle sometime the seate of a family thereof surnamed out of which Sir Roger Leibourn was a great Agent in the Barons warres and William was a Parliamentary Baron in the time of King Edward the first Neare neighbour to Leibourn is Briling now the habitation of the Lord Abergeveny in times past parcell of the Baronie of the Maminots then of the Saies whose Inheritance at length by heires generall came to the families of Clinton Fienes and Aulton Upon the banke of Medway Eastward somewhat higher after it hath passed by Halling where Hamo Heath Bishop of Rochester built an house for his successors there standeth an ancient Citie which Antonine calleth DVRO BRVS DVRO-BRIVAE and in another place more truely DVRO PROVae and DVRO BROVae Bede DVRO BREVIS and in the declining state of the Romane Empire processe of time contracted his name so that it came to be named ROIBIS and so by addition of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which commeth of the latin word Castrum betokeneth among our ancestors a city or Castle was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and now with us more short Rochester and in Latin Roffa of one Rhufus as Bede guesseth but it seemeth unto mee to retaine in it somewhat still of that old name Durobrevis Neither is there cause why any man should doubt of the name seeing that by the account of journies or distance betweene places and Bedes authoritie it is named expressely in the Charter of the foundation of the Cathedrall Church there DVROBROVIS yet thus much I would advertise the Reader that in the printed bookes of Bede it is read Darueruum whereas in the manuscript copies it is termed DVROBREVIS seated it is in a bottome fortified on the one side with a marsh the river the weake walles and as William of Malmesburie saith pent within too streight a roome whereupon in time past it was counted a Castle rather then a Citie For Bede calleth it Castellum Cantuariorum that is the Kentishmens Castle But now it stretcheth forth with large suburbs on the West East and South sides It hath passed through no few dangers and mischances In the yeare of Christ 676. it was overthrowne and laid along by King Aetheldred the Mercian and many a time afterward sacked by the Danes Aethelbert King of Kent erected there a sumptuous Church which also he made more famous with the dignitie of Bishopricke ordaining Iustus to bee the first Bishop of that See But when it fell to decay for very age Bishop Gundulph a Norman about the yeare 1080. reedified it and thrusting out the Priests brought in Monkes in their roomes and when they were cast out a Deane sixe Prebendaries and Scholars were substituted in their places Neere unto the Church there standeth over the river an old Castle fortified both by art and situation Which as the report goeth Odo Bishop of Bayeux and Earle of Kent built But it was no doubt King William the first that built it For in Domesday booke we read thus The Bishop of Rouecester holdeth in Elesford for exchange of the land on which the Castle is seated Yet certaine it is that Bishop Odo when his hope depended of a doubtfull change of the State held this against King William Rufus At which time there passed proclamation through England that whosoever would not be reputed a Niding should repaire to recover Rochester Castle Whereupon the youth fearing that name and most reproachfull and opprobrious in that age swarmed thither in such numbers that Odo was enforced to yeeld the place lose his dignitie and abjure the realme But concerning the reedification of this Castle about this time listen what the Text of Rocester saith when King William the second would not confirme the gift of Lanfrank as touching the Manour of Hedenham in the County of Buckingham made unto Rochester church unlesse Lanfranck and Gundulph Bishop of
these very same of which we now speake And verily no where else are they found but in a chalkie and marly soile Vnlesse a man would thinke that our English-Saxons digged such caves and holes to the same use and purpose as the Germans did of whom they were descended For they were wont as Tacitus writeth to make holes and caves under the ground and those to charge aloft with great heapes of dung as harbours of refuge for Winter and garners of receit for corne because by such like places they mitigate the rigour of cold wether and if at any time the enemie commeth hee wasteth onely the open ground but as for those things that lie hidden and buried under the earth they are either unknowne or in this respect doe disappoint the enemies for that they are to be sought for From above Feversham the shoare runneth on plentifull of shel-fish but especially oisters whereof there are many pits or stewes as far as Reculver and farther This Reculver is a place of ancient memorie named in the old English-Saxon Reaculf but in elder time REGVLBIVM For so it is named in the Roman Office booke Notitia Provinciarum which reporteth that the captaine of the primer band of the Vetasians lay heere in garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon-shoare for so was the sea coast a-long this tract called who had the command then of nine Ports as the L. Warden now hath of five Ports And verily the Roman Emperours coines digged up there give testimony to this antiquitie of the place In it Aethelbert King of Kent when he had made a grant of Canterbury to Augustine the Monk built himselfe a Palace and Bassa an English-Saxon beatified it with a Monasterie out of which Brightwald the Eighth Archbishop of Canterbury was elected Of this Monastery or Minster it was named Raculf-Minster what time as Edred brother to King Edward the Elder gave it to Christ-church in Canterbury Howbeit at this day it is nothing else but an uplandish country towne and if it bee of any name it hath it for the salt savory Oisters there dredged and for that Minster the steeples whereof shooting up their loftie spires stand the Mariners in good stead as markes whereby they avoide certaine sands and shelves in the mouth of the Thames For as he versifieth in his Philippeis Cernit oloriferum Thamisin sua Doridi amarae Flumina miscentem It now beholds swann-breeding Thames where he doth mix his streame With brackish sea Now are we come to the Isle Tanet which the river Stour by Bede named Wantsum severeth from the firme land by a small channell running betweene which river made of two divers rivelets in the wood-land called the Weald so soone as it goeth in one entire streame visiteth Ashford and Wye two prety Mercate townes well knowne Either of them had sometimes their severall Colledges of Priests the one built by Iohn Kemp Archbishop of Canterbury who was there borne the other to wit of Ashford by Sir R. Fogge Knight Wye also had a speciall fountaine into which God infused a wonderfull gift and vertue at the instant prayer of Eustace a Norman Abbat if we may beleeve Roger of Hoveden whom I would advise you to have recourse unto if you take delight in such like miracles As how the blind by drinking thereof recovered sight the dumbe their speech the deafe their hearing the lame their limbes And how a woman possessed of the devill sipping thereof vomited two toades which immediately were first transformed into huge blacke dogs and againe into asses and much more no lesse strange than ridiculous which some in that age as easily believed as others falsely forged Thence the Stour leaving East-well the inhabitation of the family of the Finches worshipfull of it selfe and by descent from Philip Belknap and Peoplesham goeth on to Chilham or as other call it Iulham where are the ruines of an old Castle which one Fulbert of Dover is reported to have built whose issue male soone failed and ended in a daughter inheritrice whom Richard the base sonne of King Iohn tooke to wife and had with her this Castle and the lands thereto belonging Of her hee begat two daughters namely Lora the wife of VVilliam Marmion and Isabell wife first to David of Strathbolgy Earle of Athole in Scotland afterward to Sir Alexander Baliol who was called to Parliament by the name of Lord of Chilham mother to that Iohn Earle of Athole who being condemned oftentimes for treason was hanged at the last upon a gibbet fifty foot high as the King commanded because he might be so much the more conspicuous in mens eies as he was of higher and nobler birth and being cut downe halfe alive had his head smitten off and the truncke of his body throwen into the fire a very cruell kinde of punishment and seldome seene among us And after his goods were confiscate King Edward the first bounteously bestowed this castle together with Felebergh Hundred upon Sir Bartholomew Badilsmer who likewise quickly lost the same for his treason as I have before related There is a constant report among the inhabitants that Iulius Caesar in his second voiage against the Britans encamped at this Chilham and that thereof it was called Iulham that is Iulius his Mansion and if I be not deceived they have the truth on their side For heere about it was when at his second remove he in his march staied upon the intelligence that his ships were sore weather-beaten and thereupon returned and left his army encamped tenne daies while he rigged and repaired the decaies of his Navy And in his march from hence was encountered sharply by the Britans and lost with many other Laberius Durus a Marshall of the field A little beneath this towne there is a prety hillocke to be seene apparelled in a fresh suit of greene sord where men say many yeeres agoe one Iullaber was enterred whom some dreame to have beene a Giant others a Witch But I conceiving an opinion that some antiquity lieth hidden under that name doe almost perswade my selfe that the foresaid Laberius was heere buried and so that the said hillocke became named Iul-laber Five miles from hence the river Stoure dividing his Channell runneth swiftly by DVROVERNVM the chiefe Cittie of this Countie and giveth it his name For Durwhern in the British tongue signifieth a swift river Ptolome calleth it in steed of Durovernum DARVERNVM Bede and others DOROBERNIA the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Kentishmens citie Ninnius and the Britans Caer Kent that is the Citie of Cent wee Canterbury and the later writers in Latine Cantuaria A right antient citie this is and famous no doubt in the Romans time not over great as William of Malmesbury said 400. yeares since nor verie small much renowned both for the situation and exceeding fertility of the soile adjoining as also for
the walles whole and undecaied enclosing it round about by reason likewise of the rivers watering it and commodiousnesse of woods there about besides the vicinity of the sea yeelding store of fish to serve it Whiles the Saxons Heptarchie flourished it was the head citie of the kingdome of Kent and the kings seat untill such time as king Ethelbert passed a grant of it together with the roialty thereof unto Augustin the Apostle as they called him and consecrated Archbishop of the English Nation who established heere his habitation for himselfe and his successors And albeit the Metropolitan dignity together with the honour of the Pall that is an Episcopall vestiment that was comming over the shoulders made of a sheepe skin in memoriall of him that sought the stray sheepe and having found the same laid it upon his shoulders wrought and embroydered with crosses first laied upon Saint Peters coffin or shrine was ordained by Saint Gregorie the Great then Pope to bee at London yet for the honour of Augustine it was translated hither For Kenulph King of the Mercians thus writeth unto Pope Leo. Because Augustine of blessed Memorie the minister of Gods word unto the English Nation and who most gloriously governed the Churches of English Saxonie departed this life in the Cittie of Canterburie and his bodie was there buried in the Minster of Saint Peter Prince of the Apostles the which Laurence his successours consecrated it hath pleased all the wise men of our nation that the Metropolitane honour should bee conferred upon that Citie where his bodie was entombed who engraffed in these parts the veritie of Christian faith But whether the Archbishops See and Metropolitan dignity were here ordeined by authority of the wise men of our nation that is to say the States of the Parliament to speake according to our time or by Augustine him selfe whiles hee lived as others would have it the Bishops of Rome who next followed established the same so as they decreed That to have it severed and taken away from thence was an abominable act punishable with Curse and hell-fire Since which time it is incredible how much it hath flourished in regard both of the Archiepiscopal dignity and also of that schoole of the better kind of literature which Theodore the seventh Archbishop erected there And albeit it was sore shaken with the Danish wars and consumed for a great part thereof sundrie times by casualtie of fire yet rose it up alwaies againe more beautifull and glorious then before After the Normans entrie into this land when King William Rufus as it was recorded in the Register of Saint Augustines Abbey Had given the Citie of Canterburie wholly in * fee simple unto the Bishops which before time they had held at the Kings courtesie onely it begun not onely to get heart againe what through the same of the religious piety of godly men there and what through the bounty of the Bishops and especially of Simon Sudbury who rebuilt up the walls new but grew also as it were upon a sodaine to such a state that for beauty of private dwelling houses it equalled all the cities of Britaine but for the magnificent and sumptuous building of religious places and the number of them it surpassed even those that were most famous Among which two especially surmounted all Christs-church and Saint Augustines both of them replenished with Monkes of the Order of Saint Benet And as for Christ-Church it raiseth it selfe aloft neare the heart of the Citie with so great a majestie and statelinesse that it striketh a sensible impression of religion into their minds that behold it a farre off This Church built in old time as Beda saith by the faithfull and believing Romans the same Augustine of whom I spake got into his hands consecrated it to Christ and assigned it to be the seat for his successors wherein 73. Archbishops in a continued traine of succession have now set Of whom Lanfranke and William Corboyle brought the upper part of the Church and they that succeeded the nethermore where as that the more ancient worke had beene consumed with fire to that statelinesse which now wee see not without exceeding great charges which a devout perswasion in former times willingly disbursed For a number of high of low and of meane degree flocked hither in pilgrimage with very great and rich oblations to visit the tombe of Thomas Becket the Archbishop who being slaine in this Church by Courtiers for that in maintaining of the Ecclesiasticall liberties hee had stubbornly opposed himselfe against the King was matriculated a holy Martyr by the Bishop of Rome and worshipped as a Saint and his shrine so loaden with great offerings that the meanest part of it was of pure gold So bright so shining and glittering as Erasmus who saw it saith was every corner with rare and exceeding big precious stones yea and the Church all round about did abound with more than princelike riches and as though Christs name to whom it was dedicated had beene quite forgotten it came to be called Saint Thomas Church Neither was it for any thing else so famous as for his memoriall and sepulture although it may justly vaunt of many famous mens tombs and monuments especially that of Edward surnamed The Blacke Prince of Wales a most worthy and renowned Knight for warlike prowesse and the very wonder of his age also of Henry the Fourth a most puissant King of England But Henry the Eighth scattered this wealth heaped up together in so many ages and dispersed those Monkes in lieu of whom were placed in this Christs-Church a Deane an Archdeacon Prebendaries twelve and Sixe Preachers who in places adjoyning round about should teach and preach the word of God The other Church that alwaies mightily strove with this for superioritie stood by the Cities side Eastward knowne by the name of Saint Austines which Augustine himselfe and King Ethelbert at his exhortation founded and dedicated to Saint Peter and Paul that it might be the Sepulture place both for the Kings of Kent and also for the Archbishops For as yet it was not lawfull to bury within Cities and endowed it with infinite riches granting unto the Abbat a Mint-house with priviledge to coine money And now at this day notwithstanding the greatest part thereof is buried under his owne ruines and the rest were converted to the Kings house yet it sheweth manifestly to the beholders how great a thing it was Augustine himselfe was enterred in the porch of the same with this Epitaph as witnesseth Thomas Spot Inclytus Anglorum praesulpius decus altum Hîc Augustinus requiescit corpore sanctus The bodie of Saint Augustine doth here interred lie A Prelate great devout also and Englands honor hie But as Bede reporteth who rather is to be credited this was the more ancient Inscription of his tombe HIC REQVIESCIT DOMINVS AVGVSTINVS DOROVERNENSIS ARCHIEPISCOPVS PRIMVS QVI OLIM HVC A BEATO GREGORIO ROMANAE VRBIS
slaughter of them when at Lapis Tituli for so is that place named in Ninnius which we now call Stouar almost in the same sense and haven certainely it was hee put them to flight and forced them with all the speed they might to take their Pinnaces In which place also he gave commandement saith he that himselfe should bee buried to represse thereby as he thought the furious outrages of the English Saxons in like sort as Scipio Africanus did who commanded that his tombe should bee so set as that it might looke toward Africa supposing that his verie tombe would be a terror to the Carthaginians Here also at VVipped fleet so called of VVipped the Saxon there slaine Hengest discomfited the Britaines and put them to flight after hee had sore tired them with sundry conflicts S. Austine our Apostle as they call him many yeares after landed in this Isle unto whose blessing the credulous Clergie ascribed the plentifull fertility of the country and the Monke Gotceline cried out in this manner O the land of Tenet happy by reason of her fertilitie but most happy for receiving and entertaining so many Divine in-commers bringing God with them or rather so many heavenly citizens Egbert the third King of the Kentishmen to pacifie dame Domneva a devout Lady whom before time he had exceedingly much wronged granted here a faire piece of land wherein she errected a Monastery for 70. veiled virgins the prioresse whereof was Mildred for her holinesse canonized a Saint and the Kings of Kent bestowed many faire possessions upon it but Withred especially who that I may note the antiquitie and manner of livery of Seisin in that age out of the very forme of his owne Donation For the full complement of his confirmation thereof laied upon the holy altar a turfe of that ground which he gave at Humantun Heere afterward sundry times arrived the Danes who piteously empoverished this Island by robbings and pillages and also polluted this Monasterie of Domneva with all kind of cruelty that it flourished not againe before the Normans government Heere also landed Lewis of France who called in by the tumultuous Barons of England against King Iohn published by their instigation a pretended right to the Crowne of England For that whereas King Iohn for his notorious treason against King Richard his brother absent in the Holy-land was by his Peeres lawfully condemned and therefore after the death of King Richard the right of the Crowne was devolved to the Queene of Castile sister to the said King Richard and that shee and her heires had conveied over their right to the said Lewis and his wife her daughter Also that King Iohn had forfeited his Kingdome both by the murther of his Nephew Arthur whereof he was found guilty by his Peeres in France and also by subjecting his Kingdomes which were alwaies free to the Pope as much as in him lay contrary to his oath at his Coronation and that without the consent of the Peeres of the Realme c. Which I leave to Historians with the successe of his expedition least I might seeme to digresse extraordinarily Neither must I passe over heere in silence that which maketh for the singular praise of the inhabitants of Tenet those especially which dwell by the roads or harbours of Margate Ramsgate and Brodstear For they are passing industrious and as if they were Amphibii that is both land creatures and sea creatures get their living both by sea and land as one would say with both these elements they be Fisher-men and Plough-men as well Husband-men as Mariners and they that hold the plough-taile in earing the ground the same hold the helme in steering the ship According to the season of the yeare they knit nets they fish for Cods Herrings Mackarels c. they saile and carry forth Merchandise The same againe dung and mannure their grounds Plough Sow harrow reape their Corne and they inne it Men most ready and well appointed both for sea and land and thus goe they round and keepe a circle in these their labours Futhermore whereas that otherwhiles there happen shipwrackes heere for there lie full against the shore those dangerous flats shallowes shelves and sands so much feared of Sailers which they use to call The Goodwinsands The Brakes The four-foots The whitdick c. these men are wont to bestir themselves lustily in recovering both ships men and Merchandize endangered At the mouth of Wantsum Southward which men thinke hath changed his channell over against the Isle stood a City which Ptolomee calleth RHVTVPIAN Tacitus PORTVS TRVTVLENSIS for Rhutupensis if Beatus Renanus conjectureth truely Antonine RHITVPIS PORTVS Ammianus Marcellinus RHVTVPIAH STATIO that is the Road of Rhutupiae Orosius THE HAVEN and City of Rhutubus the old English-Saxons as Beda witnesseth Reptacesler others Ruptimuth Alfred of Beverly nameth it Richberge we at this day Richborow Thus hath time sported in varying of one and the same name Whence this name should arise it is not for certaine knowen But seeing the places neere unto it as Sandwich and Sandiby have their denomination of Sandi I considering also that Rhyd Tufith in the British-tongue betokeneth a sandy fourd I would willingly if I durst derive it from thence This City seemed to have beene seated on the descent of an hill the Castle there stood overlooking from an higher place the Ocean which is now so farre excluded by reason of sandy residence inbealched with the tides that it comes hardly within a mile of it Right famous and of great name was this City while the Romans ruled here From hence was the usual passing out of Britan to France and the Neatherlands at it the Roman fleets arrived here it was that Lupicinus sent by Constantius the Emperour into Britaine for to represse the rodes and invasions of Scots and Picts both landed the Heruli and Batavians and Maesian regiments Heere also Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour to whom as Symmachus witnesseth the Senate decreed for pacifying Britan armed Statues on horse-backe arrived with his Herculij Iovij Victores Fidentes for these were names of Roman regiments Afterwards when the Saxon Pirates impeached entercourse of merchants and infested our coasts with continuall piracies the Second Legion Augusta which being remooved by the Emperour Claudius out of Germany had remained many yeares in Garrison at Isea Silurum in Wales was translattd hither and had a Provost of their owne heere under the great Lieutenant and Count of the Saxon shore Which Provostship happily that Clemens Maximus bare who being heere in Britan by the soldiers saluted Emperour slew Gratian the lawfull Emperour and was afterwards himselfe slaine by Theodosius at Aquileia For this Maximus it was whom Ausonius in the verses of Aquileia called the Rhutupine robber Maximus armigeri quondam sub nomine lixae Faelix quae tanti spectatrix laeta triumphi Fudisti Ausonio Rhutupinum Marte latronem
The same Poet also in his Poem Parentalia preserved the memory of Flavius Sanctus another President or Governour of Rhutupiae concerning whom thus hee wrote Militiam nullo qui turbine sedulus egit Praeside laetatus quo Rhutupinus ager His martiall service who discharg'd with care without all stirre And Rutupin rejoyce in him who was their governour Ausonius likewise in a lamentable funerall verse setteth forth the praise of Claudius Contentus his Vncle who being overtaken with death left behind him unto strangers a mighty stock of money which hee had put out to usury among the Britaines and encreased by interest and was heere also enterred Et patruos Elegia meos reminiscere cantus Contentum tellus quem Rhutupina tegit My dolefull Muse now call to minde the songs of Vnkle mine Contentus who enterred lies within mould Rhutupine This Rhutupiae flourished also after the comming in of the English Saxons For writers record that it was the Royall Palace of Ethelbert King of Kent and Bede gave it the name of a City But ever since it beganne to decay neither is the name of it read in any place afterward as farre as I know but in Alfred of Beverley who hath put downe in writing that Alcher with a power of Kentish-men at this towne then called Richberge foiled and defeated the Danes encombered with the spoiles they had before gotten Now hath time razed out all the footings and tractes thereof and to teach us that Cities as well as men have their fatall periods it is a verie field at this daie wherein when the corne is come uppe a man may see the draughts of streetes crossing one another For wheresoever the streetes went there the corne is thinne which the common people terme Saint Augustins Crosse. And there remaine onely certaine walles of a Castle of rough flinte and long Britan brickes in forme of a quadrant and the same cemented with lime and a most stiffe binding sand mightily strengthened by tract of time so that the cement is as hard as the stone Over the entrie whereof is fixed a head of a personage engraven in stone some say it was Queene Berthas head but I take it to bee a Romane worke a man would deeme this to have beene the Citadell or keepe of the City it stands on such a height over-looking the low grounds in Tenet which the Ocean by little and little shrinking away hath now left Moreover the plot whereon the Citie stood being now plowed up doth oftentimes discover peeces of Romane coines as well gold as silver evident tokens of the antiquity thereof and a little beneath shee sheweth a daughter of hers which the English Saxons of sand called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and wee Sandwich This beeing one of the Cinque-ports as they terme them is on the North and West side fortified with walles and on other parts fenced with a rampier river and ditch The haven by reason of sand choaking it and a great shippe of burden belonging to Pope Paule the Fourth which was accidentallie sunke in the verie channell thereof is not deepe enough to beare any tall vessells In ancient times it sundrie times felt the furious forces of the Danes afterward King Canutus the Dane when hee had gained the Crowne of England bestowed it upon Christs-Church in Canterburie with the royaltie of the water on each side so farre forth as a shippe beeing a floate a man might cast a Danish hatchet out of the vessell to the banke In the Norman raigne it was reckoned one of the Cinque ports and to finde five shippes In the yeare 1217. Lewis of France of whom wee spake lately burned it King Edward the first for a time placed heere the staple and King Edward the Third by exchange reunited it to the Crowne About which time there flourished heere a familie surnamed De Sandwico which had matched with one of the heires of Creveâ—cur and Dauranches Lord of Folkesto and deserved well of this place In the time of King Henrie the Sixth it was burned by the French In our daies Sir Roger Manwood chiefe Baron of the Exchequer native of this place built and endowed heere a free-schoole and the Netherlanders have bettered the towne by making and trading of Baies and other commodities Beneath Rhutupiae Ptolomee placeth the Promontorie CANTIVM as the utmost cape of this Angle which in some copies is corruptly written NVCANTIVM and ACANTIVM Diodorus as corruptly calleth it CARION and we at this day the Foreland of Kent Now all these shores on every side are of this Rhutupiae by the Poets termed Rhutupina littora Hence it is that Iuvenall satyrically inveighing against Curtius Montanus a dainty and delicious glutton speaking of oysters carried from this shore to Rome hath these verses nulli major fuit usus edendi Tempestate meâ Circaeis nata forent an Lucrinum ad saxum Rhutupinòve aedita fundo Ostrea callebat primo deprendere morsu None in my time had more use of his tooth Whence oisters came where they were bred full well He knew at Circeie cape at Lucrine rock forsooth Or Rhutup coast at first bit he could tell And Lucan the Poet. Aut vaga cùm Thetis Rhutupináque littora fervent Or when unconstant waving sea and British shores doe rage From this fore-land aforesaid the shore runneth on Southward for certaine miles together indented with a continued raunge of many hilles mounting up But when it is come as farre as Sandon that is to say the Downe of Sand and to Deale and Walmer three Neighbour Castles which King Henrie the Eighth within the remembrance of our Fathers built it setleth low and in a flat and open plaine lieth full against the sea At this Deale or Dole as Ninnius calleth it and that truely in mine opinion For our Britains at this day doe so terme a plaine lying low and open upon sea or river the constant report goes that Iulius Caesar did arrive and Ninnius avoucheth as much who in barbarous Latine wrote thus Caesar ad Dole bellum pugnavit that is At Dole Caesar fought a battaile A Table likewise set up in Dover Castle confirmeth the same yea and Caesar himselfe verifieth it who reporteth that he landed upon an open and plaine shore and that the Britaine 's welcommed and received him with a hote and dangerous encounter Whereupon our Countrey man Leland in his Swans song Iactat Dela novas celebris arces Notus Caesareis locus trophaeis Deale famed much vuants of new turrets hie A place well knowne by Caesars victorie For hee give mee leave I pray you to digresse awhile out of my course having as Pomponius Sabinus reporteth out of Seneca wonne all that was to bee gotten by sea and land cast his eie to the Ocean and as if the Romane world would not suffice him bethought him selfe upon another world and with a fleete of a thousand saile for so writeth Athenaeus out of
This Hubert was a man who unfainedly loved his Countrie amidst the stormes of frowning Fortune performed all duties to the utmost that his Countrey could require of a right good patriot Yet at length he fell in disgrace and was dispoyled of his dignities whereby this title slept and lay as dead untill the time of King Edward the Second Who bestowed it upon his younger brother Edmund of Woodstocke who being Tutor of his nephew Edward the Third falling into the tempest of false injurious and malignant envie was beheaded for that he never dissembled his naturall brotherly affection toward his brother deposed and went about when hee was God wot murthered before not knowing so much to enlarge him out of prison perswaded thereunto by such as covertly practised his destruction Hee had two sonnes Edmund and Iohn who were restored by Parliament to bloud and land shortly after And with all it was inacted that no Peere of the land or other that procured the death of the said Earle should bee empeached therefore than Mortimer Earle of March Sir Simon Beresford Iohn Matravers Baious and Iohn Devoroil So these his two sonnes succeeded in order and when they were both dead without issue their sister Ioane who survived them for her lovely beautie called The Faire maid of Kent brought this honour unto the house of the Hollands For Sir Thomas Holland her husband was stiled Earle of Kent and shee after married by dispensation to the Black Prince heire to him King Richard the Second Her sonne Sir Thomas Holland succeeded in that honourable title who died in the twentieth yeare of King Richard the Second Him againe there succeeded his two sonnes Thomas and Edmund Thomas who also was created Duke of Surry and forthwith for complotting a conspiracie against King Henry the Fourth lost his head leaving no child Edmunds his brother being Lord High Admirall of England was wounded at the assault of Saint Brieu in little Britan and died thereof in the yeare of Salvation 1408. leaving likewise no issue Now when this dignitie was expired in this family of the Hollands their glasse being runne out and the Patrimony parted among Edmund sisters King Edward the Fourth honoured with the title of the Earldome of Kent First Sir William Nevill Lord Fauconberg and after his death Edmund Lord Grey of Ruthin Hastings and Weisford and who had to succeed him George his sonne Hee of Anne Widevile his first wife begat Richard Earle of Kent who having wasted his inheritance ended therewith his daies issuelesse 1523. But the said George by his second wife Katherine daughter to William Herbert Earle of Pembrooke was father of Sir Henry Grey of Wrest knight whose grand-sonne Reginald by his sonne Henrie Queene Elizabeth in the yeare 1571. advanced to the Earledom of Kent And after his decease without issue his brother Henrie succeeded a right honourable personage and endued with the ornaments of true nobility This province hath parishes 398. DOBVNI HItherto we have walked over all those Countries that lie betweene the British Ocean of the one side and the Severne sea and river Thames on the other Now according to the order which wee have begun let us survey the rest throughout and passing over the said river returne to the head of Thames and the salt water of Severne and there view the DOBVNI who in ancient times inhabited those parts which now are termed Oxford-shire and Glocester-shire This their name I verily suppose came of Duffen a British word because the places where they planted themselves were for the most part low and lying under the hils whereupon the name became common to them all and verily from such a kind of site Bathieia in Troas Catabathmos in Africk and Deep-Dale in Britan tooke their names I am the more easily induced to believe this because I see that Dio in the very same signification hath named certaine people BODVNNI if the letters be not misplaced For Bodo or BODVN as Plinie saith in the ancient French tongue which I have proved before was the same that in the British language betokeneth Deepe Hence was it that the City Bodincomagus as he writeth became so called for that it stood where the river Po was deepest hence had the people Bodiontij that name who inhabited a deepe vale by the Lake of Lozanne and Geneva now called Val de Fontenay to say nothing of Bodotria the deepest Frith in all Britan. Concerning these Bodunj I have found in all my reading no matter of great antiquity save only that A. Plautius sent as Propraetor by Claudius into Britan received part of them upon their submission into his protection to wit those that were under Cattuellani for they held the region bordering upon them and as Dio hath recorded about the forty and foure yeare after Christ was borne placed a garrison over them But when the English Saxons reigned in Britan and the name of Dobuni was worne out some of these as also the people dwelling round about them were by a new English Saxons name called Wiccij but whereupon I dare scarce venture to guesse without craving leave of the Reader Yet if Wic in the Saxons tongue soundeth as much as the creeke or reach of a river and the Viguones a nation in Germanie are so called because they dwell neere unto the creekes or baies of the Sea and of rivers for so doth Beatus Rhenanus constantly affirme It will bee no absurditie if I derive our Wiccii from thence who inhabited round about the mouth of Severne which is very full of such Coves and small creekes and reaches GLOCESTRLAE Comitatus olim sedes DOBVNORUM GLOCESTER-SHIRE GLocester-shire in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which was the chiefe seat of the Dobuni on the West-side butteth upon on Monmouth-shire and Hereford-shire on the North upon Worcester-shire on the East upon Warwick-shire Oxford-shire and Barck-shire on the South upon Wilt-shire and Somerset-shire both A pleasant countrey and a fruitfull stretching out in length from North-east unto South-west The part that lyeth more East-ward rising up in height with hils and wolds is called Cotteswold the middle part settleth downe low to a most fertile plaine and is watered with Severne that noble river which doth infuse life as it were into the soile That part which bendeth more Westward on the further side of Severne is all over be spread with woods But what meane I to busie my selfe herein William of Malmesbury will ease mee of this labour who fully gives high commendations to this countrey Have therefore what he writeth in his booke of Bishop The countrey saith he is called of the principall Citie The vale of Glocester the ground throughout yieldeth plentie of corne and bringeth forth abundance of fruits the one through the naturall goodnesse onely of the ground the other through diligent manuring and tillage in so much as it would provoke the laziest body that is to take paines
Sir Walter Clifford in this Castle when the house was all on a light fire hee was killed with a stone that from the top of an high Turret fell upon his head and brained him Neither have I any thing else to be recounted in this wood-countrey beside Newnham a pretty mercate and Westbury thereby a seate of the Bainhams of ancient descent But that Herbert who had wedded the sister of the said Mahel Earle of Hereford in her right was called Lord of Deane froÌ„ whom that Noble house of the Herberts fetcheth their pedigree out of which family came the Lords of Blanleveney and of late daies the Herberts Earles of Huntingdon and Pembroch with others From hence also if wee may believe David Powell in his historie of Wales was descended Antonie Fitz-Herbert whose great learning and industrie in the wisedome of our law both the judiciall Court of Flees wherein he sate Iustice a long time and also those exact bookes of our common law by him exquisitely penned and published doe sufficiently witnesse But other have drawne his descent and that more truly if I have insight therein from the race of the Fitz-Herberts Knights in Derby shire The river Severn called by the Britains HAFFREN after it hath run a long course with a channell somewhat narrow no sooner entereth into this shire but entertaineth the river Avon and another brooke comming from the East Betwixt which is seated Tewkesbury in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by others Theoci Curia taking the name from one Theocus who there did lead an Eremites life It is a great and faire towne having three bridges to passe over standing upon three rivers famous for making of Wollen cloath and the best mustard which for the quicke heate that it hath biteth most and pierceth deepest but most famous in times past by reason of an ancient Monastery which Dodo a man of great power in Mercia founded in the yeare 715 where before time he kept his royall court as is testified by this inscription which there remained long after HANC AVLAM REGIAM DODO DVX CONSECRARI FECIT IN ECCLESIAM THIS ROIAL PALACE DVKE DODO CAVSED TO BE CONSECRATED FOR A CHVRCH And Odo his brother endowed the same which being by continuance of time and the fury of enemies ruinated Robert FITZ-HAIMON the Norman Lord of Corboile and Thorigny in Normandie reedified translating monks from Cranborn in Dorsetshire hither upon a devout mind verily and a religious that he might make some amends to the Church for the losse that the Church of Baieux in Normandie had sustained which K. Henry the first for to free him from his enemies had set on fire and burned and afterwards repenting that which he had done built againe It cannot writeth William of Malmesbury be easily reported how highly Robert Fitz-hamon exalted this Monastery wherin the beauty of the buildings ravished the eies and the charity of the Monks allured the hearts of such folke as used to come thither Within this both himselfe and his successours Earles of Glocester were buried who had a Castle of their owne called Holmes hard by which now is almost vanished out of sight Neither is this towne lesse memorable for that battell whereby the house of Lancaster received a mortal wound as wherein very many of their side in the yeere 1471. were slaine more taken prisoners and divers beheaded their power so weakened and their hopes abated especially because young Prince Edward the only sonne of King Henry the sixt a very child was there put to death and in most shamefull and villanous manner his braines dashed out as that never after they came unto the field against King Edward the Fourth In which respect Iohn Leland wrote of this towne in this wise Ampla foro partis spoliis praeclara Theoci Curia sabrinae quà se committit Avona Fulget nobilium sacrÃsque recondit in antris Multorum cineres quondam inclyta corpora bello Where Av'n and Severn meete in one there stands a goodly towne For mercat great and pillage rich there wonne of much renowne Hight Tewkesburie where noble men entombed many are Now gone to mould who sometimes were redoubted Knights in warre From thence we come to Deorhirst which Bede speaketh of scituate somewhat low upon the banke of Severn wherby it hath great losses many times when he over-floweth his bounds It had in it sometimes a little Monasterie which being by the Danes overthrowne flourished againe at length under Edward the Confessor who as we read in his Testament assigned The religious place at Deorhirst and the government thereof to Saint Denis neere unto Paris Yet a little while after as William of Malmesbury saith It was but a vaine and void representation of antiquitie Over against it lieth a place halfe incompassed in with Severne called in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Alney now the Eight that is The Iland Famous by the reason of this occurrence that when both the Englishmen and the Danes were much weakened with continuall encounters to make a finall dispatch at once of all quarrels the Fortune and destinie of both nations was committed to Edmund King of the English and to Canutus King of the Danes who in this Iland by a single combate tried it out unto whether of them the right of this Realme should belong But after they had fought and given over on even hand a peace was concluded and the kingdome divided betweene them But when streight upon it Edmund was dispatched out of the way not without suspicion of poison Canutus seized into his owne hands all England From Deorhirst Severne runneth downe by Haesfield which King Henry the Third gave to Rich. Pauncefote whose successours built a faire house heere and whose predecessours were possessed of faire lands in this Countrey before and in the Conquerours time in Wiltshire making many reaches winding in and out and forthwith dividing himselfe to make a river Iland most rich and beautifull in greene meddowes he passeth along by the head Citie of this Shire which Antonine the Emperour called CLEVVM and GLEVVM the Britans terme Caer Gloviè the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 we Glocester the Vulgar sort of Latinists Glovernia others Claudiocestria of the Emperour Claudius as they imagine who forsooth should give it this name when hee had bestowed heere his daughter Genissa in marriage upon Arviragus the Britan. Touching whom Iuvenall writeth thus Regem aliquem capies vel de temone Britanno Excidet Arviragus Some King sure thou shalt prisoner take in chase or battaile heat Or else Arviragus shall loose his British royall seate As though hee had begat any other daughters of his three wives besides Claudia Antonia and Octavia or as if Arviragus had beene knowne in that age whose name was never heard of before Domitians time and scarce then But let them goe that seeke to build antiquitie upon a frame grounded on lies Rather yet would I
sundry Families Toddington also is next adjoyning hereunto where the Tracies Gentlemen of a right worshipfull and ancient house flourished a long time who long since found the Barons of Sudley very bounteous unto them But how in the first variance about Religion William Tracy Lord of this place was proceeded against and punished after his death by digging up his corps and burning it openly for some few words put downe in his last Will and Testament which savoured as those times judged of heresie as also how another William de Tracy long before embrued his hands in the bloudy murder of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury the Ecclesiasticall Historiographers have written at large and it is no part of my purpose to relate such like matters There is heere likewise Winchelcombe a great Towne and well inhabited wherein Kenulph the Mercian King erected an Abbay and on the same day that hee hallowed and dedicated it hee freed and sent home Edbricht a King of Kent whom he had kept before his Prisoner A man would hardly beleeve how much haunted and frequented this Abbay was long since for the Reliques of King Kenelme a childe seven yeares old whom his owne sister to get the Inheritance unto her selfe secretly made away and our forefathers registred in the ranke of holy Martyrs The Territory adjoyning hereto in times past was reckoned a County by it selfe or a Sherif-dome For we read in an old manuscript sometime belonging to the Church of Worcester in this wise Edris sirnamed Streâ—na that is The getter or gainer who first under King Aetheldred and afterwards for a good while under Cnut or Canut governed the whole Kingdome of England and ruled as Vice Roy adjoyned the Sherif-dome of Winchelcombe which was then an entire thing by it selfe unto the shire of Glocester Thence I found nothing memorable but neere the fountaine of Churn River Coberley a seat of a stem of Barkeleies so often named even from the Conquest which matched with an heire of Chandos and so came hereditarily to the Bruges progenitors to the Lords Chandos Then by Bird-lip-hill whereby we ascended unto this high Coteswold out of the vale lyeth Brimsfield which had for the L. thereof the Giffords in times past unto whom in right of marriage there came a goodly inheritance from the Cliffords and streight waies by the female heires the same fell to the Lords le Strange of Blackmer to Audleies and divers others Thus much of the places among the Woulds But under the said Woulds I have seene that notable Roman high-way by a well knowne name called the Fosse which out of Warwicke-shire commeth downe first by Lemington where it may seeme there was a Station of the Romanes by the peeces of Romane Coine ploughed there often times out of the ground some of which Edward Palmer a curious and diligent Antiquary whose Ancestors flourished heere a long-time hath of his courtesie imparted unto mee then by Stow on the Would where by reason of that high site the Windes blow cold and North-Leach bearing the name of a Riveret running hard by it and then to Circencester which the River Corinus now Churn rising among the Woulds neere Corberley very commodious for Milles passeth by into the South and so giveth it his name This was a City of as great antiquity as any other called by Ptolomee CORINIUM by Antonine the Emperour DUROCORNOVIUM that is The water Cornovium just fifteene miles from Glevum or Glocester as hee noteth The Britans named it Caer Cori and Caer Ceri the English Saxon 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee in these dayes Circester and Circiter The ruinate wals doe plainely shew that it was very large for by report they tooke up two miles in compasse That it was a famous place the Romane Coines the cherkerworke pavements and the engraven marble stones that now and then are there digged up which have beene broken and to no small prejudice of Antiquity doe evidently testifie As also the Port Consular wayes of the Romanes that heere did crosse one another whereof that which led to GLEVUM or Glocester is yet extant with his high rigde evident to bee seene as farre as to Bird-lip-hill and if a man looke well upon it seemes to have beene paved with stone The British Chronicles record that this City was burnt being set on fire by Sparrowes through a stratageme devised by one Gurmund I wot not what Tyrant of Africke whereupon Giraldus calleth it Passerum urbem that is the Sparrowes City and out of those Chronicles Necham writeth thus Urbs vires experta tuas Gurmunde per annos Septem This City felt for seven yeares space Thy forces Gurmund Who this Gurmund was I know not The Inhabitants shew a Mount beneath the City which they report Gurmund did cast up and yet they call it Grismunds Towre Marianus an Historian of good antiquity and credit reporteth that Ceaulin King of the West Saxons dispossessed the Britans of it what time hee had discomfited and put to flight their forces at Deorham and brought Glocester to his subjection Many yeares after this it was subject to the West Saxons for wee reade that Penda the Mercian was defeited by Cineglise King of the West Saxons when hee besieged it with a mighty Army Howbeit at length both it and the whole Territory and country came under subjection of the Mercians and so continued untill the English Monarchie Under which it sustained much sorrow and grievous calamity by the Danes and peradventure at the hand of Gurmon that Dane whom the Historiographers call both Guthrus and Gurmundus So that it may seeme he was that Gurmund which they so much speake of For certes when he raged about the yeare 879. a rablement of Danes rousted heere one whole yeare Now scarce the fourth part within the wals is inhabited the remaines beside are pasture grounds and the ruines of an Abbay built as the report goeth at first by the Saxons and newly repaired afterwards by King Henry the First for Blacke Chanons wherein I heard say that many of the family of the Barons de Sancto Amando were buried But the Castle that it had was by a Warrant from the King overthrowne in the first yeare of Henry the Third his Raigne The Townesmen raise the chiefe gaine by the Trade of Clothing and they make great reports of the singular bounty of King Richard the First towards them who endowed the Abbay with lands and as they say themselves made them Rulers of the seven Hundreds adjoyning to hold the same jurisdiction in fee farme by vertue whereof they should have the hearing and determining of causes and take unto themselves the fines perquisites amercements and other profites growing out of the trials of such causes Moreover King Henry the Fourth granted unto them certaine priviledges in consideration of their good and valiant service performed against Thomas Holland Earle of Kent late Duke of
to make therein his Episcopall residency This Birinus as wee may read also in Bede was wonderfully in those daies admired for a deepe conceived opinion of his holinesse whereupon an ancient Poet who penned his life in Verse wrote thus of him Dignior attolli guà m sit Tyrinthius heros Quà m sit Alexander Macedo Tyrinthius hostes Vicit Alexander mundum Birinus utrunque Nec tantùm vicit mundum Birinus hostem Sed sese bello vincens victus eodem More worthy for to be extold than Hercules for might Or that great king of Macedon who Alexander hight For Hercules subdu'd his foes and Alexander he Wonne all the World by force of Armes But our Birinus see Did vanquish both nor conquer'd he onely the World and Foe But in one fight subdu'd himselfe and was subdu'd also After 460. yeares Remigus Bishop of this place least the name of Bishop should loose credit in so small a City a thing forbidden in the Canons in the Raigne of William the first translated his seat to Lincolne At which time this City of Dorchester as Malmesbury saith who then flourished was but slender and of small resort yet the majesty of the Churches was great whether you respected either the old building or the new diligence and care emploied thereupon Ever since it beganne by little and little to decay and of late by turning London high way from thence it hath decreased so as that of a City it is scarce able now to maintaine the name of a Towne and all that it is able to doe is to shew in the fields adjoyning ruines onely and rubbish as expresse tokens of what bignesse it hath beene A little beneath this Towne Tame and Isis meeting in one streame become hand-fast as it were and joyned in Wedlocke and as in waters so in name they are coupled as Ior and Dan in the holy Land Dor and Dan in France whence come Iordan and Dordan For ever after this the River by a compound word is called Tamisis that is Tamis He seemeth first to have observed this who wrote the booke entituled Eulogium Historiarum Now as touching this marriage of Isis with Tame have heere certaine Verses taken out of a Poem bearing that Title which you may read or leave unread at your pleasure Hic vestit Zephyrus florentes gramine ripas FLORAQYE nectareis redimit caput ISIDIS herbis Seligit ambrosios pulcherrima GRATIA flores Contexit geminas CONCORDIA laeta corollas Extollitque suas taedas Hymenaeus in altum Naiades aedificant thalamúmque thorúmque profundo Stamine gemmato textum pictisque columnis Vndique fulgentem Qualem nec Lydia Regi Extruxit Pelopi nec tu Cleopatra marito Illic manubias cumulant quas Brutus Achivis Quas Brennus Graecis rigidus Gurmundus Hibernis Bunduica Romanis claris Arthurius Anglis Eripuit quicquid Scotis victricibus armis Abstulit Edwardus virtúsque Britannica Gallis Hauserat intereà sperati conjugis ignes TAMA Catechlaunûm delabens montibus illa Impatiens nescire thorum nupturaque gressus Accelerat longique dies sibi stare videntur Ambitiosa suum donec praeponere nomen Possit amatori Quid non mortalia cogit Ambitio notamque suo jam nomine villam Linquit Norrisiis geminans salvete valete Cernitur tandem Dorcestria prisca petiti Augurium latura thori nunc TAMA resurgit Nexa comam spicis trabea succincta virenti Aurorae superans digitos vultumque Diones Pestanae non labra rosae non lumina gemmae Lilia non aequant crines non colla pruinae Vtque fluit crines madidos in terga repellit Reddit undanti legem formamque capillo En subitò frontem placidis è fluctibus ISIS Effert totis radios spargentia campis Aurea stillanti resplendent lumina vultu Iungit optatae nunc oscula plurima TAMAE Mutuáque explicitis innectunt colla lacertis Oscula mille sonant connexu brachia pallent Labra ligant animos tandem descenditur unà In thalamum quo juncta FIDE CONCORDIA sancta Splendida conceptis sancit connubia verbis VndÃque multifori strepitat nunc tibia buxi Flucticolae Nymphae Dryades SatyrÃque petulci In numeros circùm ludunt ducuntque choreas Dum pede concutiunt alterno gramina laeti Permulcent volucres sylvas modulamine passim CertatÃmque sonat laetùm reparabilis ECHO Omnia nunc rident campi laetantur AMORES Fraenatis plaudunt avibus per inania vecti Personat cythara quicquid vidêre priores Pronuba victura lauro velata BRITÔNA Haec canit ut toto diducta BRITANNIA mundo Cùm victor rupes divulserit aequore Nereus Et cur Neptuni lapidosa grandine natum Albionem vicit nostras delatus in oras Hercules illimes libatus Thamisis undas Quas huc adveniens ar as sacravit Vlysses Vtque Corinaeo Brutus comitatus Achate Occiduos adiit tractus ut Caesar anhelus Territa quaesitis ostendit terga Britannis c. And after a few other verses Dixerat unito consurgit unus amore Laetior exultans nunc nomine TAMISIS uno Oceanúmque patrem quaerens jactantior undas Promovet Heere Zephyrus with fresh greene grasse The Bankes above doth spread Faire Flora with ay-living herbs Adourneth ISIS head Most lovely GRACE selecteth forth Sweet floures that never dy And gladsome CONCORD plats thereof Two guitlands skilfully With all God HYMENAEUS lifts His torches up on hie A Bride-chamber the NAIADES Beneath of rare device And Bed do rear ywov'n with warp Beset with stones of price All shining eke with pillars tall And wrought full curiously The like did neâ—her Lydie for King Pelops edify Nor thou Queene Cleopatra for Thine husband Antony There lay they foorth and make no spare Those spoiles that whilom Brut From Achives tooke what riches great From Grecians Brennus stout And from fierce Irish Gurmund wonn What either Bundwic Queen From Romans gat or Arthur from Our English there are seene What ever from the Scots by force Of fight our Edward King Or valiant English from the French By armes away did bring Meane while down Catechlanian hils TAME gliding kindled had The fire of love in hope of ISE Her husband wondrous glad Impatient now of all delay She hastneth him to wed And thinks the daies be long untill They meet in marriage bed Untill I say ambitious she May now before her love Her own name set see whereunto Ambition minds doth move And now by this shee leav's the town That knowen is by her name All haile fare well redoubling to The Norris's by the same Old Dorchester at length shee sees Which was to give presage And lucky Augury of this Long wished marriage Up riseth Tame then who know's Her locks with eares of corn Full well to knit with kirtle green Her wast eke to adorn The lightsome raies of morning bright She now doth far excell Dione faire in countenance Lookes not by halfe so well Her lips
the neighbour Inhabitants in small or no stead untill being brought of late unto his ancient Chanell it is become more commodious for the carriages of all commodities c. Lea is not gone forward farre from Ware when he entertaineth a Riveret named Stort from the East which first runneth downe out of Essex by Bishops Stortford a small Towne fensed sometime with a little Castle set upon a mount cast up of purpose within a prety Island which Castle King William the Conquerour gave unto the Bishops of London and of those Bishops it came to be so called but King John for hatred to Bishop William overthrew it From thence it maketh his way by Sabridgworth a parcell of the Honor of Earle William Mandevile and sometime the possession of Geffrey Say neere Shingle-hall honested by the Owners the Leventhorpes of ancient Gentry So on not farre from Honsdon forfeited by Sir William Oldhall to the Crowne in the time of King Henry the Sixth which gave a Title of Baron Hunsdon to Sir Henry Cary through the favour of Queene Elizabeth unto whom he was Lord Chamberlaine as who verily besides his descent from the royall Family of the Dukes of Somerset was by his mother Mary Bolen cozen german to the said Queene Lea having thus admitted into him this Riveret hasteneth now with a merry glee to the Tamis under Hodesdon a faire through Faire to which H. Bourchier Earle of Essex having a faire house at Base thereby while it stood procured a Mercat and then as it were in gratulatory wise saluteth Theobalds commonly called Tibaulds which our Nestor of Britaine the right honourable Baron Burghley late Lord high Treasurer of England built an house if we respect the workmanship none more faire and elegant if the gardens Orchards and walkes bedight with Groves none more pleasant unto whom especially this River willingly acknowledgeth it selfe beholden for the recovery againe of his ancient Chanell But returne we now to places more within the Country and of greater antiquity From Hertford twelve miles Westward stood VEROLAMIUM a City in times past very much renowned and as greatly frequented Tacitus calleth it VERULAMIUM Ptolomee UROLANIUM and VEROLAMIUM well knowne this is in these dayes neere unto Saint Albans in Caisho Hundred which the CASSII of whom Caesar maketh mention in all probability held and inhabited The Saxons named it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the famous High-way Watlingstreet and also 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Neither hath it as yet lost that ancient name for commonly they call it Verulam although there remaineth nothing of it to bee seene beside the few remaines of ruined walles the checkered pavements and peeces of Roman Coine other whiles digged up there It was situate upon the gentle descent or side of an hill Eastward fenced about with passing strong wals a double Rampire and deepe Trenches toward the South and Eastward watered with a Brooke which in old time made a great Meere or standing Poole Whereby it was guessed that this was the very same towne of Cassibelaunus fortified with woods and marishes which Caesar wan For there was not to be seene any other Poole or Meere in this Tract to my knowledge In Nero his time it was counted a MUNICIPIUM whence it is that in Ninius his Catalogue of Cities it is named Caer-Municip So that probable it is that this was the very same CAER MUNICIPIUM which Hubert Golizius found in an old Inscription These Municipia were Townes endowed with the right of Romane Citizens and this name came A Muneribus capiendis that is of publique Offices and charges in the Common-wealth and they had for their States and Degrees * Decurions that is Gentlemen and Commons for their publique Councell a Senate and People For their Magistrates and Priests Duum-virj Trium-virj to sit in judgement and minister justice CENSORS AEDILES Quaestors and Flamins But whether this Municipium or towne enfranchised were with suffrages or without a man cannot easily affirme A Municip with suffrages they tearmed that which was capable of honourable Offices like as that other they called without suffrage which was not capable In the Raigne of the same Nero when Bunduica or Boadicia Queene of the Icenes in her deepe love of her Country and conceived bitter hatred against the Romanes raised bloudy and mortall Warre upon them it was rased and destroied by the Britans as Tacitus recordeth Hence it is that Suetonius wrote thus To these mischiefes so great proceeding from the Prince there happened to mend the matter a grievous losse in Britaine wherein two principall Towres of great importance with much slaughter of Romane Citizens and Allies were put to the sacke and spoiled Neverthelesse it flourished againe and became exceeding famous and passing well frequented yea and I have seene old Antiquities of money stamped as it seemeth heere with this inscription TASCIA and on the reverse VER Which that learned searcher of venerable antiquity David Powell Doctour in Divinity interpreteth to be The Tribute of Verulamium For Tasc as he teacheth me in the British or Welsh tongue soundeth as much as Tribute Tascia A Tribute Penny and Tascyd the chiefe Collector of Tribute But loe heere is the very peece of money portraied for you to see which heeretofore also I have exhibited Some would have this money to bee coined before the comming in of the Romans but I beleeve them not For I have alwaies thought them to bee Tribute money which being imposed upon the poll and the lands were yeerely exacted and gathered by the Romans as I have said before For before that the Romans came I can scarce beleeve the Britans coined or stamped any money Yet I remember what Caesar writeth of them And they use saith he brasse money or rings of iron weighed to a certaine poise Where the ancient bookes have Lanceis Ferreis for which the Criticks put in Laminis Ferreis that is plates of iron But let my pen returne againe to the matter proposed for my meaning is not heere to weave the same web still As for Verulam it was famous for nothing so much as for bringing foorth Alban a Citizen of singular holinesse and faith in Christ who when Dioclesian went about by exquisite torments to wipe Christian Religion quite out of the memory of men was the first in Britaine that with invincible constancy and resolution suffred death for Christ his sake Whereupon hee is called our Stephen and the Protomartyr of Britaine yea and Fortunatus Presbyter the Poet wrote thus of him Albanum egregium foecunda Britannia profert Fruitfull Britaine bringeth foorth Alban a Martyr of mickle worth And Hiericus a Frenchman who flourished 700. yeeres agoe of the same Alban and his executioner miraculously stricken blinde made these verses Millia poenarum Christi pro nomine passus Quem tandem rapuit capitis sententia caesi Sed non lictori cessit res tuta superbo Utque caput Sancto
ceciderunt lumina saevo Thousands of torments when he had endur'd for Christ his sake At length he dyed by dome thus given his head away to take The Tortor proudly did the feat but cleere he went not quite That holy Martyr lost his head this cruell wretch his sight In reproch of this Martyr and for the terrour of Christians as wee finde in an old Agon of his the Citizens of Verulam engraved his Martyrdome in a Marble stone and inserted the same in their walles But afterwards when the bloud of Martyrs had conquered Tyrants cruelty the Christians built a Church as Bede saith of wondrous workmanship in memoriall of him and Verulam carried with it so great an opinion of Religion that there in was holden a Synode or Councell in the yeere of the worlds Redemption 429. when as the Pelagian Heresie by meanes of Agricola sonne to the Bishop Severianus had budded forth a fresh into this Island and polluted the British Churches so as that to averre and maintaine the truth they sent for German Bishop of Auxerre and Lupus Bishop of Troies out of France who by refuting this heresie gained unto themselves a reverend account among the Britans but chiefly German who hath thorowout this Island many Churches dedicated to his memory And nere unto the ruined wals of this rased city there remaineth yet a Chappell bearing S. Germans name still although it be put to a prophane use in which place he openly out of the Pulpit preached Gods word as the ancient records of S. Albans church do testifie Which German as Constantius flourishing in that time writeth in his life commanded the Sepulchre of Saint Albane to bee opened and therein bestowed certaine Reliques of Saints that whom one heaven had received should also in one Sepulchre bee together lodged Thus much I note by the way that yee may observe and consider the fashions of that age Not long after the English Saxons wonne it but Uther the Britan firnamed for his serpentine wisedome Pendragon by a sore siege and a long recovered it After whose death it fell againe into their hands For we may easily gather out of Gildas words that the Saxons in his daies were possessed of this City God saith hee hath lighted unto us the most cleere Lamps of holy Saints the Sepulchres of whose bodies and places of their Martyrdome at this day were they not taken away by the woefull disseverance which the barbarous enemy hath wrought amongst us for our many grievous sinnes might kindle no small heat of divine charity in the mindes of the beholders Saint Albane of Verulam I meane c. When Verulam by these warres was utterly decaied Offa the most mighty King of the Mercians built just over against it about the yeere of our Lord 795. in a place which they called Holmehurst a very goodly and large Monastery in memory of Saint Alban or as wee reade in the very Charter thereof Unto our Lord Iesus Christ and S. Alban Martyr whose Reliques Gods grace hath revealed in hope of present prosperity and future happinesse and forthwith with the Monastery there rose a Towne which of him they call Saint Albans This King Offa and the succeeding Kings of England assigned unto it very faire and large possessions and obtained for it at the hands of the Bishops of Rome as ample priviledges which I will relate out of our Florilegus that yee may see the profuse liberality of Princes toward the Church Thus therefore writeth he Offa the most puissant King gave unto Saint Alban the Protomartyr that Towne of his ancient Demesne which standeth almost twenty miles from Verulam and is named Uneslaw with as much round about as the Kings written Deedes at this day doe witnesse that are to bee seene in the foresaid Monastery which Monastery is priviledged with so great liberty that it alone is quite from paying that Apostolicall custome and rent which is called Rom-scot whereas neither King nor Archbishop Bishop Abbat Prior nor any one in the Kingdome is freed from the payment thereof The Abbat also or monke appointed Archdeacon under him hath pontificall Jurisdiction over the Priests and Lay-men of all the possessions belonging to this Church so as he yeeldeth subjection to no Archbishop Bishop or Legate save only to the Pope of Rome This likewise is to be knowne that Offa the Magnificent King granted out of his Kingdome a set rent or imposition called Rom-scot to Saint Peters Vicar the Bishop of Rome and himselfe obtained of the said Bishop of Rome that the Church of Saint Alban the Protomartyr of the English nation might faithfully collect and being so collected reserve to their proper use the same Rom-scot throughout all the Province of Hertford in which the said Church standeth Whence it is that as the Church it selfe hath from the King all royall priviledges so the Abbot of that place for the time being hath all Pontificall ornaments Pope Hadrian also the fourth who was borne hard by Verulam granted this indulgence unto the Abbats of this Monasterie I speake the very words out of the Priviledge that as Saint Alban is distinctly knowne to be the Protomartyr of the English nation so the Abbat of this Monastery should at all times among other Abbats of England in degree of dignitie be reputed first and principall Neither left the Abbats ought undone that might serve either for use or ornament who filled up with earth a mighty large poole under Verulam which I spake of The name whereof yet remaineth still heere in a certaine street of the towne named Fish-poole-streete Neere unto which streete because certaine ankers were in our remembrance digged up divers have verily thought induced thereunto by a corrupt place in Gildas that the river Tamis sometimes had his course and chanell this way But of this Meere or Fish-poole have heere what an old Historian hath written Abbot Alfrike for a great peece of money purchased a large and deepe pond an evill neighbour and hurtfull to Saint Albans Church which was called Fish-poole appertaining to the Kings And the Kings officers and fishers molested the Abbay and burdened the Monkes thereby Out of which poole he the said Abbot in the end drained and derived the water and made it dry ground If I were disposed upon the report of the common people to reckon up what great store of Romane peeces of coine how many cast images of gold and silver how many vessels what a sort of modules or Chapiters of pillars and how many wonderfull things of antique worke have been digged up my words would not carry credit The thing is so incredible Yet take with you some few particulars thereof upon the credite of an ancient Historiographer Ealred the Abbot in the reigne of King Eadgar having searched for the ancient vaults under ground at Verulam overthrew all About the yeere of Christ 960. and stopped up all the waies with passages under ground which were strongly and
againe forsaken by reason that another way through licence of the Bishops of London was laied open through High-gate and Bernet This Bernet for the beast mercat there kept beginneth now to be famous but it was more renowned for a field there fought when in the warre betweene the two Families of Lancaster and Yorke England dared to doe against her owne bowells whatsoever ambitious treachery and disloyaltie would command For upon Gledesmore hard by even on Easter day in the morning there was a bloudy battaile most fiercely fought and that with variable fortune for a great while by reason that a most thicke mist covered the face of the ground But in the end the victorie fell happily unto King Edward the Fourth by occasion that Richard Nevil Earle of Warwicke was there slaine whom as the favourable indulgence of Fortune made over-stout and bold yea and dangerous unto Kings so his death freed England from all feare of ciuill Warres Bernet hath for his neighbours Mimmes a seat of a Worshipfull Family of the Coningesbies descended to them by Frowick from the Knolles ancient possessours thereof and North-hall where Ambrose Dudley last Earle of Warwicke raised a stately house from the foundations This County of Hertford had Earles out of the Familie de Clare who notwithstanding were oftener called Earles of Clare from Clare in Suffolke their principall seate The first to my knowledge was Gilbert who under the title of Earle of Hertford is put downe as a witnesse in a Charter of King Stephens Likewise Roger de Clare in the time of King Henry the Second is in the Red-booke of the Exchequer named Earle of Hertford Likewise his successors whom you may see in their places But seeing both by right of inheritance and also through the Princes favour they attained to the Earledome of Glocester they bare both titles joyntly and were called unto Parliaments by the name of Earles of Glocester and Hertford And Richard de Clare who died in the yeere of our Lord 1262. is in plaine termes by Florilegus of Westminster called Earle of Glocester and of Hertford where he reporteth this Epitaph composed for him in that age to his great commendation Hic pâ—dâ—r Hippolyti Paridis gena sensus Vlyssis Aeneae pietas Hectoris ira jacet Chast Hyppolite and Paris faire Ulysses wife and slie Aeneas kinde fierce Hector here jointly entombed lie But not long since King Henry the Eighth honoured Sir Edward de Saint Maur or Seymâ—r with the title of Earle of Hertford who also was created Duke of Somerseâ— by King Edward the Sixth After whom succeeded in this Earledome his Sonne bearing the same name a right Honourable personage and a singular lover of Learning This Countiâ— hath Parishes 120. TRINOBANTES THey whom Caesar calleth TRINOBANTES Ptolomee and Tacitus TRINOANTES were next neighbours to the Cattieuchlani inhabiting in those countries which now having changed their names are commonly termed Middlesex and Essex Whence that ancient name sprung I dare not verily so much as guesse unlesse it come of the British word Tre-Nant which is as much as Townes in a vale For this whole region in a maner lieth low in a valley upon the Tamis But I doe not greatly please my selfe in this my conjecture And yet they that inhabited Galloway in Scotland lying altogether lowe in vallies were of old time in the British tongue called Noantes and Novantes and in the Vaile of Rhine in French named Le Vaule the people in old time called Nantuates had both their abode and their name thence so that this conjecture of mine may seeme as probable as that of others who over curiously have derived Trinobantes of Troy as a man would say Troia Nova that is New Troy But I wish them well and that heerein they may please themselves These were in Caesars time of all these countries well neere the strongest City or State for evermore he termeth by the name of Civitas a whole people living under the same lawe and their King in those daies was Immanuentius who being slaine by Cassibelinus his sonne Mandubratius saving his life by flight went into Gaule to Caesar and putting himselfe under his protection returned with him into Britaine At which time these Arinobantes petitioned Caesar by their Ambassadors that he would defend Mandubratius from the injuries of Cassibelinus and resend him to the State that he might be Governour and beare rule over them which being done they gave forty Hostages and were the first of all the Britanes that yeelded themselves under his allegeance This Mandubratius that I may note so much by the way is evermore called by Eutropius Bede and the later writers Androgeus But whence this diversitie of the name should arise I am altogether ignorant unlesse that be true which I have learned from a very skilfull man in the British history and language both that this name Androgeus was given unto him for his lewdnesse and perfidious treason For the signification of wickednesse doth most plainely shew it selfe in it And in the Booke of Triades among the three Traitors of Britaine he is counted the most villanous in that he was the first that made way to bring the forraine Romanes into Britaine and betraied his Country After Mandubratius when as now by reason of hote ciuill warres Britaine was neglected of the Romanes and left unto his owne Princes and lawes certaine it is that Cunobeline ruled as King in these parts of whose coine I exhibit heere unto you one or two peeces although I have already shewed the very same and others heeretofore Admimus this mans Sonne banished by his Father fled with a small retinue about him to the Romane Emperour Cajus Caligula and yeelded himselfe Which so puffed up the young Emperours minde that as if all the Island had absolutely and wholly yeelded into his hands he sent glorious letters to Rome admonishing oftentimes the bearers thereof not to deliver them unto the Consuls but in the Temple of Mars and in a frequent assembly of the Senate When Cunobelinus was dead Aulius Plautius by commission from Claudius the Emperour set upon this Country One of Cunobilinus his Sonnes named Togodumnus he slew and another called Catacratus he overthrew in the field over whom also as we finde in the Capitollin Record of the Romane Triumphes he rode Ovant in triumph and that with so great honour as Suetonius writeth that Claudius the Emperour went side by side with him both in his going to the Capitoll and also in his returne from thence And he himselfe shortly after transporting his forces hither brought these parts within few Moneths into the forme of a Province Thence-forth the Trinobantes rested a while in peace but that under the Empire of Nero they privily entered into a conspiracy with the Iceni to shake off the Romanes yoke But Suetonius Paulinus as Tacitus recordeth quickly quenched this flame of sedition with a great
Which King Henry the Fifth when he had expelled thence the Monkes aliens built for religious Virgins to the honor of our Saviour the Virgine Mary and Saint Briget of Sion like as he founded another on the Rivers side over against it for the Carthusian Monkes named Jesu of Bethelem In this Sion hee appointed to the Glory of God so many Nunnes Priests and lay brethren divided a part within their severall wals as were in number equall to Christ his Apostles and Disciples upon whom when he had bestowed sufficient living he provided by a law that contenting themselves therewith they should take no more of any man but what overplus soever remained of their yearely revenew they should bestow it upon the poore But after that in our forefathers time those religious Votaries were cast out and it became a retiring house of the Duke of Somerset who plucked downe the Church and there began a new house Under this the small water Brent issueth into the Tamis which springing out of a Pond vulgarly called Brouns-well for Brentwell that is in old English Frog-well passeth downe betweene Hendon which Archbishop Dunstan borne for the advancement of Monkes purchased for some few golde Bizantines which were Imperiall peeces of Gold coined at Bizantium or Constantinople and gave to the Monks of Saint Peter of Westminster and Hamsted-hils from whence you have a most pleasant prospect to the most beautifull City of London and the lovely Country about it Over which the ancient Roman military way led to Verulam or Saint Albans by Edge-worth and not by High-gate as now which new way was opened by the Bishops of London about some 300. yeares since But to returne Brent into whom all the small Rillets of these parts resort runneth on by Brentstreat an Hamlet to whom it imparted his name watereth Hanger-wood Hanwell Oisterly Parke where Sir Thomas Gresham built a faire large house and so neere his fall into the Tamis giveth name to Brentford a faire throughfaire and frequent Mercat Neere which in the yeare 1116. King Edmond sirnamed Ironside so fiercely charged upon the Danes whom hee compelled by force to retire from the Siege of London that as fast as their horses could make way they fled not without their great losse From Stanes hitherto all that lyeth betweene London highway which goeth through Hounslow and the Tamis was called the Forrest or Warren of Stanes untill that King Henry the Third as in his Charter we reade Disforrested and diswarened it Then by the Tamis side is Fulham in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The place of Fowles the greatest credit and honour whereof is the Bishop of Londons house standing there conveniently not farre from the City albeit not so healthfully Also Chelsey so named of a shelfe of Sand in the River Tamis as some suppose but in Records it is named Chelche-hith a place garnished with faire and stately houses by King Henry the Eighth by William Powlet the first Marquesse of Winchester and by others But LONDON the Epitome or Breviary of all Britaine the seat of the British Empire and the Kings of Englands Chamber so much overtoppeth all these as according to the Poet Inter viburna Cupressâ—s that is the Cypresse-tree amongst the Viornes Tacitus Ptolomee and Antonine call it LONDINIUM and LONGIDINIUM Ammianus LUNDINUM and AUGUSTA Stephen in his Cities 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 our Britans Lundayn the old Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Strangers Londra and Londres the inhabitants London Fabulous writers Troja nova that is New Troy Dinas Belin that is Belins City and Caer Lud of King Lud whom they write to have reedified it and given it the name But these few names and originall derivations together with Erasmus his conjecture who deriveth it from Lindum a City in the Isle Rhodes I willingly leave to such as well like it For mine owne part seeing that Caesar and Strabo doe write that the ancient Britains called those Woods and groves by the names of Cities and Townes which they had fenced with trees cast downe and plashed to stoppe up all passage seeing also I have understood that such woods or groves are in the British tongue named Llâ—wn I encline a little to the opinion that London thence tooke name as one would say by way of excellency The City or A City thicke of trees But if heerein I faile of the truth let me with good leave give my conjecture and heere would I have no man to charge me with inconstancy while I disport in conjecture that whence it had the fame thence also it tooke the name even from ships which the Britains in their language call Lhong so that Londinum may seeme to sound as much as a ship-Rode or City of ships For the Britains tearme a City Dinas whence the Latines have fetched their Dinum And hence it is that elsewhere it is called LONGIDINIUM and in the funerall song or Dump of a most ancient British Bard Lhong-porth that is an harbour or haven of ships and by this very terme Bononia or Bolen in France which Ptolomee calleth Gessoriacum Navale in the British Glossarie is named Bolung-long For many Cities have drawne their names from Ships as Naupactus Naustathmos Nauplia Navalia Augusti c. But of these none hath better right to assume unto it the name of a Ship-Rode or Haven than our London For in regard of both Elements most blessed and happy it is as being situate in a rich and fertile Soile abounding with plentifull store of all things and on the gentle ascent and rising of an hill hard by the Tamis side the most milde Merchant as one would say of all things that the World doth yeeld which swelling at certaine set houres with the Ocean-tides by his safe and deepe chanell able to entertaine the greatest Ships that bee daily bringeth in so great riches from all parts that it striveth at this day with the Mart-townes of Christendome for the second prise and affoordeth a most sure and beautifull Roade for shipping A man would say that seeth the shipping there that it is as it were a very Wood of trees disbranched to make glades and let in light So shaded it is with masts and failes Who was the first founder is by long time growne out of knowledge and in truth very few Cities there are that know their own first founders considering they grew up to their greatnesse by little and little But as other Cities so this of ours fathereth her originall upon the Trojanes as verily beleeving that Brutus the Nephew in the third descent of Great Aeneas was the builder thereof But whosoever founded it the happy and fortunate estate thereof hath given good proofe that built it was in a good houre and marked for life and long continuance And that it is for antiquity honourable Ammianus Marcellinus giveth us to understand who called it in his times and that was 1200. yeares
agoe an old towne and Cornelius Tacitus in like manner who in Nero his daies 1540. yeares since reported it to have been a place very famous for fresh Trade concourse of Merchants and great store of victuals and all things necessary This onely at that time was wanting to the glory thereof that it had the name neither of Free City nor of Colony Neither verily could it have stood with the Romans profit if a City flourishing with merchandize should have enjoyed the right of a Colony or Free City And therefore it was as I suppose that they ordained it to bee a Praefecture for so they termed townes where Marts were kept and Justice ministred yet so as that they had no Magistrates of their owne but rulers were sent every year to governe in them and for to minister Law which in publique matters namely of tax tributes tolles customes warfare c. they should have from the Senate of Rome Hence it commeth that Tacitus the Panegyrist and Marcellinus call it onely a towne And although it was not in name loftier yet in welth riches and prosperity it flourished as much as any other yea and continued in manner alwaies the same under the dominion of Romans English-Saxons and Normans seldome or never afflicted with any great calamities In the Raigne of Nero when the Britans had conspired to recover and resume their liberty under the leading of Boadicia the Londoners could not with all their weeping and teares hold Suetonius Paulinus but that after hee had levied a power of the Citizens to aide him hee would needs dislodge and remove from thence leaving the City naked to the enemy who foorthwith surprised and slew some few whom either weaknesse of sex feeblenesse of age or sweetnesse of the place had deteined there Neither had it susteined lesse losse and misery at the hands of the French if it had not soddenly and beyond all expectation by Gods providence beene releeved For when C. Alectus had by a deceitfull wile made away C. Carausius a Clive-lander who taking vantage of our rough seas of Dioclesians dangerous warres in the East and withall presuming of the French and most venterous Mariners and servitors at sea had withheld to himselfe the revenewes of Britain and Holland and borne for the space of six yeares the title of Emperour Augustus as his coines very often found heere doe shew when M. Aurelius Asclepiodotus likewise had in a battaile slain Alectus in the third year now of his usurpation of the imperiall purple and state those French who remained alive after the fight hasting to London forthwith would have sacked the City had not the Tamis which never failed to helpe the Londoners very fitly brought in the Roman souldiers who by reason of a fogge at Sea were severed from the Navie For they put the Barbarians to the sword all the City over and thereby gave the Citizens not onely safety by the slaughter of their enemies but also pleasure in the beholding of such a sight And then it was as our Chronicles record that Lucius Gallus was slaine by a little Brookes side which ran through the middle almost of the City and of him was in British called Nant-Gall in English Walbrooke which name remaineth still in a Street under which there is a sewer within the ground to ridde away filth not farre from London-stone which I take to have beene a Milliary or Milemarke such as was in the Mercate place of Rome From which was taken the dimension of all journies every way considering it is in the very mids of the City as it lyeth in length Neither am I perswaded that London was as yet walled Howbeit within a little while after our Histories report that Constantine the Great at the request of his mother Helena did first fense it about with a Wall made of rough stone and British brickes which tooke up in compasse three miles or thereabout so as it enclosed the modell of the City almost foure square but not equall on every side considering that from West to East it is farre longer than from South to North. That part of this Wall which stood along the Tamis side is by the continuall flowing and washing of the River fallen downe and gone Yet there appeared certaine remaines thereof in King Henry the Seconds time as Fitz-Stephen who then lived hath written The rest now standing is stronger toward the North as which not many yeares since was reedified by the meanes of Jotceline Lord Major of London became of a sodaine new as it were and fresh againe But toward East and West although the Barons in old time during their warres repaired and renewed it with the Jewes houses then demolished yet is it all throughout in decay For Londoners like to those old Lacedemonians laugh at strong walled Cities as cotte houses for Women thinking their owne City sufficiently fensed when it is fortified with men and not with stones This Wall giveth entrance at seven principall Gates for wittingly I omit the smaller which as they have beene newly repaired so they have had also new names given unto them On the West side there be two to wit Lud-gate of king Lud or Flud-gate as Leland is of opinion of a little floud running beneath it like as the Gate Fluentana in Rome built againe of late from the very foundation and Newgate the fairest of them all so called of the newnesse thereof where as before it was termed Chamberlangate which also is the publique Goall or Prison On the North side are foure Aldersgate of the antiquity or as others would have it of Aldrich a Saxon Creple-gate of a Spitle of lame Creples sometime adjoyning thereunto More-gate of a moory ground hard by now turned into a field and pleasant Walkes which Gate was first built by Falconer Lord Major in the yeare of our Lord 1414. and Bishopsgate of a Bishop which Gate the Dutch Merchants of the Stilyard were bound by Covenant both to repaire and also to defend at all times of danger and extremity On the East side there is Aldgate alone so named of the oldnesse or Elbegate as others terme it which at this present is by the Cities charge reedified It is thought also that there stood by the Tamis beside that on the Bridge two Gates more namely Belings-gate a Wharfe now or a key for the receit of Ships and Douregate that is The Water-gate commonly called Dowgate Where the Wall endeth also toward the River there were two very strong Forts or Bastilions of which the one Eastward remaineth yet usually called The Towre of London in the British tongue Bringwin or Tourgwin of the whitenesse A most famous and goodly Citadell encompassed round with thicke and strong Walles full of lofty and stately Turrets fenced with a broad and deepe ditch furnished also with an Armory or Magazine of warlike Munition and other buildings besides so as it resembleth a big towne
and a man may truly suppose that those two Castles which Fitz-Stephen recorded to have beene at the East side of this City went both to the making of this one The other Fort was on the West side of the City where Fleete a little Riveret whence Fleete-streete tooke name now of no account but in times past able to beare Vessels as I have read in the Parliament Rolls sheddeth it selfe into the Tamis Fitz-Stephen called this the Palatine Towre or Castle and they write that in the Raigne of William the Conquerour it was consumed by fire Out of the ruines whereof both a great part of Pauls Church was newly built and also in the very plot of ground where it stood Robert Kilwarby Archbishop of Canterbury founded a religious house for Dominican Friers whereupon we call the place Blacke Friers Whereby a man may easily guesse of what bignesse it was Howbeit there stood in that place in the dayes of king Henry the second Gervase of Tilbury in his booke entituled Otia Imperiatia is mine Authour two Forts or Castles built with Wals and Rampiers The one whereof belonged to Bainard the other to the Barons of Montfichet by right of succession But nothing remaineth of them at this day Yet some thinke that Pembroch house was a peece of them which we terme Bainards Castle of William Bainard a Noble man Lord of Dunmow whose possession sometime it was whose successours the Fitz-walters were in right of inheritance the Ensigne Bearers of the City of London and amongst them Robert Fitz-walter had licence of king Edward the First to sell the site of Bainard Castle to the said Archbishop Robert Neither was this City at that time walled onely but also when the Flamin or Pagan Priest was taken away and Christian Religion established under that good Emperour a Bishop was enstalled in his roome For it appeareth that at the Councell of Arles which in the yeare of grace 314. was held under Constantine the Great the Bishop of London was present For he subscribed as is to be seene in the first Tome of the Councels in this manner RESTITUTUS Bishop in the City of London out of the Province of Britaine which Restitutus and his successors had their seat and resiance as some affirme at Saint Peters in Cornhill Heereafter London flourished in such honour that it beganne to bee called AUGUSTA and by that name was famous under the Emperour Valentinian For Amianus Marcellinus in his 27. booke writeth thus And going forward to London an ancient Towne which the posterity called Augusta and in the 28. booke He went from Augusta which men of old time called Lundi whence it came that when after Constantines time there was a Mint appointed therein For we reade in his peeces of money which he stamped in honour of his father Constantius and in others this inscription P. LON. S. that is Pecunia Londini signata that is Money stamped at London he that had the charge and overseeing thereof under the Comes sacrarum largitionum is in the booke of Notice termed Praepositus Thesaurorum Augustensiam in Britannia that is Provost of the Treasury of Augusta or London in Britaine For this name AUGUSTA was a name full of much dignity full of majesty And both founders and repairers of Cities when they either hoped or wished that such Cities would become flourishing and powerfull gave them significative names of good fortune But among the most auspicious names that be none is more magnificent none more auspicate than AUGUSTA For this of AUGUSTUS that most gracious and mighty Emperour Octavianus tooke unto himselfe not without the judgement of the best learned Sirnamed he was saith Dio Augustus as one of great Majesty above the nature of man For what things be most honourable and sacred are called AUGUSTA Neither had London this name for so high an honour without the Licence of the Romane Emperours For that names could not bee imposed to Cities without licence Virgil noteth in that Verse of his Urbem appellabant permisso nomine Acestam The City by permission ACESTA they did name But as continuance of time hath out-worne this so honorable a name of Augusta so it hath confirmed that other more ancient name Londinum Whiles it enjoyed the foresaid name Augusta it scaped faire from destruction by a rebellious rout of Ransackers but Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour did cut them in peeces whiles they were encombred with their spoiles and entred as Marcianus saith with exceeding great joy in triumphant manner into the City distressed before and overwhelmed with grievous calamities And marching with his Army from thence he by his valiant prowesse so freed Britain from those intolerable miseries and dangers wherewith it was beset that the Romans as witnesseth Symmachus honored him among other ancient worthies and men of honourable Renowne with the Statue of a man of Armes Not long after when the Romans Empire in Britaine was come to an end in that publique destiny and fatall fall of the whole State it fell into the English-Saxons hands but in what sort it is not agreed upon among Writers For mine owne part I am of opinion that Vortigern to redeeme himselfe being taken Prisoner delivered it for his ransome unto Hengest the Saxon considering that it belonged to the East-Saxons whose Country as Writers doe record Vortigerne upon that condition made over unto Hengest At which time the State of the Church went to wracke and endured sore afflictions the Pastours were either slaine or forced to flye their flockes driven away and after havocke made of all as well Church goods as others Theon the last Bishop of London of British bloud was faine to hide the holy Reliques of Saints for a memoriall as mine Authour saith and not for any Superstition But although those dayes of the English-Saxons were such as that a man might truely say Mars then brandished and shooke his weapons yet was London never the lesse as Bede testifieth a Towne of Trade and Traffique Frequented with many Nations resorting thither by sea and land But afterwards when a more gracious gale of peace breathed favourably upon this wearied Island and the English-Saxons beganne to professe Christianity it also beganne a fresh to flourish againe For Aethelbert King of Kent under whom Sebert reigned in this Tract as it were his Vassall and by courtesie founded heere a Church and consecrated it to Saint Paul which being eftsoones reedified and repaired became at length most stately and magnificent endowed also with faire Livings and Revenewes wherewith are maintained a Bishop a Deane and Chaunter a Chancellour and a Treasurer five Archdeacons thirty Prebendaries and divers others The East part of this Church which seemeth to bee the newer and curiously wrought having under it a very faire Arched Vault which also is Saint Faithes Church was begunne of the ruines of that Palatine Castle which I speake of by Maurice the Bishop about the
the Church of Ely for to expiate and make satisfaction for the wicked act hee had committed in murdering his owne mother then by Angre where upon a very high Hill are the tokens of a Castle built by Richard Lucy Lord Chiefe Justice of England in the Raigne of Henry the Second of which Family a daughter and one of the heires King Iohn gave in marriage to Richard Rivers who dwelt hard by at Stranford Rivers So it passeth by Lambourn Manour which is held by service of the Wardstaffe viz. to carry a load of strawe in a Carte with sixe horses two ropes two men in harnesse to watch the said Wardstaffe when it is brought to the Towne of Aibridge c. and then by Wansted Parke where the late Earle of Leicester built much for his pleasure From the mouth of this Roding this Tamis hasteneth through a ground lying very flat and low and in most places otherwhiles overflowne whereby are occasioned strong and unwholsome vapours exceeding hurtfull to the health of the neighbour Inhabitants to Tilbury neere unto which there bee certaine holes in the rising of a chalky Hill sunke into the ground tenne sathome deepe the mouth whereof is but narrow made of stone cunningly wrought but within they are large and spacious in this forme which hee that went downe into them described unto mee after this manner Of which I have nothing else to say but what I have delivered already As for Tilbury Bede nameth it Tilaburgh it consisteth of some few cottages by the Tamis side yet was it in ancient time the seate of Bishop Chad when about the yeare of our Salvation 630. hee ingrafted the East-Saxons by Baptisme into the Church of Christ. Afterwards this River passing by places lying flat and unwholesome with a winding returne of his Water severeth the Island CONVENNON which also is called COUNOS whereof Ptolomee maketh mention from the firme land This hath not yet wholly foregone the old name but is called Canvey It lyeth against the Coast of Essex from Leegh to Hole Haven five miles in length some part whereof appertaineth to the Collegiat Church of Westminster But so low that oftentimes it is quite overflowne all save hillocks cast up upon which the Sheepe have a place of safe refuge For it keepeth about foure hundred Sheepe whose flesh is of a most sweet and delicate taste which I have seene young lads taking womens function with stooles fastened to their buttockes to milke yea and to make Cheeses of Ewes milke in those dairy sheddes of theirs that they call there Wiches There adjoyne to this Island along in order first Beamfleot fortified with deepe and wide Trenches as saith Florilegus and with a Castle by Hasting the Dane which King Aelfred wonne from them Then Hadleigh sometime the Castle of Hubert de Burgo afterwards of Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester now defaced with ruines and in the last place Leegh a proper fine little Towne and very full of stout and adventerous Sailers with Pritlewel fast by where Sweno de Essex built long since a Cell for Monkes And here the land shooteth forward to make a Promontory which they call Black-taile Point and Shobery Nesse of Shobery a Village situate upon it which sometime was a City an Havenet named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 For in old Annales of the English-Saxons wee reade thus The Danes being driven from Beamfleot goe to a City seated in East-sex called in the English Tongue Sceobirig and there built themselves a sure and strong Fort. Heere by reason that the bankes on both sides shrinke backe the Tamis at a huge and wide mouth rowleth into the sea This doth Ptolomee terme Aestuarium TAMESAE and corruptly in some other Copies TEMESAE and we commonly the Tamis Mouth More inward is Rochford placed that hath given name to this Hundered Now it belongeth to the Barons Rich but in old time it had Lords of ancient Nobility sirnamed thereof whose inheritance came at length to Butler Earle of Ormond and Wiltshire and from them to Sir Thomas Bullen whom King Henry the Eighth created Vicount Rochford and afterward Earle of Wiltshire out of whose Progeny sprung that most gracious Queene ELIZABETH and the Barons of Hunsdon Heere I have heard much speech of a Lawlesse Court as they called it holden in a strange manner about Michaelmasse in the first peepe of the day upon the first cocke crowing in a silent sort yet with shrowde fines eftsoones redoubled if not answered which servile attendance they say was imposed upon certaine Tenants there-about for conspiring there at such unseasonable time to raise a commotion But I leave this knowing neither the originall nor the certaine forme thereof Onely I heard certaine obscure barbarous rhymes of it Curia de Domino Rege tenetur sin◠lege Ante ortum solis luceat nisi polus c. not worth remembring Leaving the Tamis Banke and going farther within the countrey yea from West to East these places of name above the rest standing thus in order shew themselves Havering an ancient retiring place of the Kings so called of a Ring which in that place a Pilgrime delivered as sent from S. J. Baptist for so they write unto K. Edward the Confessor Horn-Church named in times past Cornutum Monasterium that is the horned Minster for there shoot out at the East end of the Church certaine points of leade fashioned like hornes Rumford the glory whereof dependeth of a swine mercat and Giddy-hall an house adjoyning to it which belonged to that Sir Thomas Cooke Major of London whose great riches hoorded up together wrought him his greatest danger For being judicially arraigned innocent man as he was of high treason and through the incorrupt equity of Judge Markham acquit in a most dangerous time yet was he put to a very grievous fine and stript in manner of all that he was worth Brentwood called by the Normans Bois arse in the same sense and by that name King Stephen granted a Mercat and a Faire there to the Abbat of S. Osith and many yeares after Isabell Countesse of Bedford daughter to King Edward the Third built a Chappell to the memory of S. Thomas of Canterbury for the ease of the Inhabitants Engerstone a Towne of note for nothing else but the Mercat and Innes for Travailers Heere am I at a stand and am halfe in a doubt whether I should now slip as an abortive fruite that conjecture which my minde hath travailed with Considering there hath beene in this Tract the City CAESAROMAGUS and the same doubtlesse in the Romanes time of especiall note and importance for the very name if there were nothing else may evict so much signifying as it doth Caesars City as DRUSOMAGUS the City of Drusus which also should seeme to have beene built in the honour of Caesar Augustus For Suaetonius writeth thus Kings that
were in amity and league founded every one in his owne Kingdome Cities named Caesareae in honour of Augustus What if I should say that CAESAROMAGUS did stand neere unto Brentwood would not a learned Reader laugh at me as one Soothsayer doth when he spieth another Certes no ground I have nor reason to strengthen this my conjecture from the distance thereof seeing the numbers of the miles in Antonine be most corruptly put downe which neverthelesse agree well enough with the distance from COLONIA and CANONIUM Neither can I helpe my selfe with any proofe by the situation of it upon the Roman high-way which in this enclosed country is no where to be seene Neither verily there remaineth heere so much as a shadow or any twinkling shew of the name CAESAROMAGUS unlesse it be and that is but very sclender in the name of an Hundred which of old time was called Ceasford and now Cheasford Hundred Surely as in some ancient Cities the names are a little altered and in others cleane changed so there be againe wherein one syllable or twaine at most bee remaining thus CAESARAUGUSTA in Spaine is now altered to be Saragosa CAESAROMAGUS in France hath lost the name cleane and is called Beavois and CAESAREA in Normandy now Cherburg hath but one syllable left of it But what meane I thus to trifle and to dwell in this point If in this quarter hereby there bee not CAESAROMAGUS let others seeke after it for me It passeth my wit I assure you to finde it out although I have diligently laid for to meet with it with net and toile both of eares and eies Beneath Brentwood I saw South-Okindon where dwelt the Bruins a Family as famous as any one in this Tract out of the two heires female whereof being many times married to sundry husbands Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke the Tirels Berners Harlestones Heveninghams and others descended And of that house there be males yet remaining in South-hampton-shire Also Thorndon where Sir John Petre Knight raised a goodly faire house who now was by our Soveraigne King James created Baron Petre of Writtle That Thorndon was in times past the dwelling place of a worshipfull Family of Fitzlewis the last of which name if we may beleeve the common report by occasion that the house happened to be set on fire in the time of his wedding feast was pittiously himselfe therein burnt to death Burghsted and more short Bursted that is the place of a Burgh which name our forefathers used to give unto many places that were of greater antiquity This I once supposed to have been CAESAROMAGUS and what ever it was in old time it is at this day but a good country Towne neere unto Byliricay a Mercat towne of very good resort Likewise Ashdowne sometimes Assandun that is as Marian interpreteth it the Mount of Asses where long since a bloudy battaile was fought in which King Edmund sirnamed Ironside had at the beginning a good hand of the Danes and put them to rout but streight waies the fortune of the field turning about he was so defeited that he lost a great number of the English Nobility In memoriall of which battaile we reade that King Canutus the Dane built a Church afterward in that place what time as upon remorse and repentance for the bloud that he had shed hee erected Chappels in what part soever he had fought any field and shed Christian bloud Not farre from these is Ralegh a prety proper towne and it seemeth to be Raganeia in Domesday booke wherein is mention made of a Castle that Suenus heere built in which also we read thus There is one Parke and sixe Arpennes of Vineyard and it yeeldeth twenty Modij of wine if it take well Which I note the rather both for the French word Arpenn and also for the wine made in this Isle This Suenus was a man of great name and of noble birth the sonne of Robert sonne of Wiwarc but father to Robert of Essex whose son was that Sir Robert de Essex who in right of inheritance was the Kings Standard bearer and who for that in a light skirmish against the Welsh hee had not onely cast off his courage but also cast away his Standard being chalenged for treason vanquished in duell or combat and thereof thrust into a Cloystre forfeited a goodly patrimony and livelod which was confiscate to King Henry the Second and helped to fill his Coffers As for the Barony it lay dead from that time a great while in the Kings hands untill Sir Hubert de Burgh obtained it of King John Above this the shores retiring backe by little and little admit two creekes of the Ocean entring within them the one the neighbour inhabitants call Crouch the other Blackwater which in old time was named Pant. In the said Crouch by reason of the waters division there lie scattered foure Islands carrying a pleasant greene hew but by occasion of inundations growne to be morish and fenny among which these two bee of greatest name Wallot and Foulenesse that is The Promontory of Fowles which hath a Church also in it and when the sea is at the lowest ebbe a man may ride over to it Betweene these Creekes lieth Dengy Hundred in ancient times Dauncing passing plentifull in grasse and rich in Cattaile but Sheepe especially where all their doing is in making of Cheese and there shall ye have men take the womens office in hand and milke Ewes whence those huge thicke Cheeses are made that are vented and sould not onely into all parts of England but into forraigne nations also for the rusticall people labourers and handicraftes men to fill their bellies and feed upon The chiefe Towne heereof at this day is Dengy so called as the Inhabitants are perswaded of the Danes who gave name unto the whole Hundred Neere unto which is Tillingham given by Ethelbert the first Christian King of the English-Saxons unto the Church of Saint Paul in London and higher up to the North shore flourished sometimes a City of ancient Record which our forefathers called Ithancestre For Ralph Niger writeth thus out of S. Bede Bishop Chad baptized the East-Saxons neere to Maldon in the City of Ithancestre that stood upon the banke of the River Pant which runneth hard by Maldon in Dengy Province but now is that City drowned in the River Pant. To point out the place precisely I am not able but I nothing doubt that the River called Froshwell at this day was heeretofore named Pant seeing that one of the Springs thereof is called Pantswell and the Monkes of Coggeshall so termed it Doubtlesse this Ithancester was situate upon the utmost Promontory of this Dengy Hundred where in these daies standeth Saint Peters upon the wall For along this shore much a doe have the inhabitants to defend their grounds with forced bankes or walls against the violence of the Ocean ready to inrush upon them And I my selfe am partly of this
heart of the Shire betweene two Rivers who as it were agreed heere to joyne both their streames together to wit Chelmer from the East and another from the South the name whereof if it be Can as some would have it we have no reason to doubt that this was CANONIUM Famous it was within the remembrance of our fathers in regard of a small religious house built by Malcome King of Scots now of note onely for the Assises for so they call those Courts of Iustice wherein twice a yeere the causes and controversies of the whole County are debated before the Judges It beganne to flourish when Maurice Bishop of London unto whom it belonged built the Bridges heere in the Raigne of Henry the First and turned London way thither which lay before through Writtle a Towne right well knowne for the largenesse of the Parish which King Henry the Third granted unto Robert Brus Lord of Anandale in Scotland whose wife was one of the heires of Iohn sirnamed Scot the last Earle of Chester for that hee would not have the Earldome of Chester to bee divided among the distaves and King Edward the Third when as the posterity of the Bruses forsooke their allegeance bestowed it upon Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex But now of late when King Iames at his entrance to the Kingdome bestowed Baronies bountifully upon select persons hee created Sir Iohn Petre a right respective Knight Baron Petre of Writtle Whose father Sir William Petre a man of approoved wisdome and exquisite learning memorable not so much for those most honourable places and offices of State which hee bare as who was of the Privie Counsell to King Henry the Eighth King Edward the Sixth Queene Mary and Queene Elizabeth and sent oftentimes in Embassage to forreigne Princes as for that being bred and brought up in good learning he well deserved of learning in the University of Oxford and was both pitifull and bounteous to his poore neighbours about him and at Egerstone where he lyeth buryed Frosh-well the River more truely called Pant and neere to his mouth Black-water issuing out of a small spring about Radwinter that belonged to the Barons of Cobham after it hath gone a long course and seene nothing but Bocking a fat Parsonage it commeth to Cogeshall a Mercate Towne well knowne in times past for a Priory of Cluniacke Monkes built by King Stephen and the habitation of ancient Knights thence sirnamed De Cogeshall from whose heire generall marryed into the old family of Tirell there branched farre a faire propagation of the Tirells in this shire and elsewhere Then goeth on this water by Easterford some call it East-Sturford and leaving some mile of Whitham a faire through-faire and built by King Edward the elder in the yeere 914. which also afterward was of the Honour of Eustace Earle of Bollen meeteth at length with Chelmer Which now passing on whole in one chanell not farre from Danbury mounted upon an high Hill the habitation for a time of the family of the Darcies runneth hard by Woodham-walters the ancient seate of the Lords Fitz-Walters who being nobly descended were of a most ancient race derived from Robert the younger sonne of Richard sonne to Earle Gislebert but in the age more lately foregoing translated by a daughter into the stocke of the Ratcliffes who being advanced to the Earledome of Sussex dwell now a little from hence in New Hall a stately and sumptuous house This New Hall appertained sometime to the Butlers Earles of Ormond and then hereditarily to Sir Thomas Bollen Earle of Wiltshire of whom King Henry the Eighth getting it by way of Exchange enlarged it to his exceeding great charges and called it by a new name Beaulieu which for all that was never currant among the people After this Chelmer with other waters running with him being divided by a River-Island casting off that name and now being called of some Blacke-water and of others Pant saluteth that ancient Colony of the Romanes CAMALODUNUM which many hundred yeeres since adorned this shore Ptolomee tearmeth it CAMUDOLANUM Antonine CAMULODUNUM and CAMOLUDUNUM But Pliny Dio and an old marble stone induce us to beleeve that CAMALODUNUM is the right name In the seeking out of this City good God how dim-sighted have some been whereas it bewraied it selfe by the very name and situation and shewed it selfe cleerely to them that are halfe blinde A number have searched for it in the West part of this Isle as that good man who thought himselfe to carry as one would say the Sunne of Antiquity in his owne hand others in the furthest part of Scotland others wholly addicted in opinion to Leland affirmed it to bee Colchester when as the name scarce any whit maimed it is called at this day in stead of CAMALODUNUM Maldon in the Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the greater part of the word remaining yet entire and in use Neither hath the expresse remaine of the name onely perswaded me to this but also the distance set downe in Pliny from Mona and the very situation in the ancient Itinerary Table doe affoord a most evident proofe thereof That this name was imposed upon CAMALODUNUM of the God CAMULUS I hardly dare imagine Howbeit that Mars was worshipped under this name Camulus both an old stone at Rome in the house of Collotians and Altars discovered with this Inscription CAMULO DEO SANCTO ET FORTISSIMO that is TO CAMULUS THE HOLY AND MOST MIGHTY GOD doe joyntly proove And in an antique Coine of Cunobellinus whose royall Palace this was as I have already said I have seene the portraict stamped of an head having an helmet on it also with a speare which may seeme to be that of Mars with these letters CAMV But seeing this peece of money is not now ready at hand to shew I exhibite here unto you other expresse portraicts of Cunobellinus his peeces which may be thought to have reference to this Camalodunum This Cunobelin governed this East part of the Isle in the time of Tiberius the Emperour and seemeth to have had three sonnes Admimus Togodumnus and Catacratus Admimus by his father banished was entertained by Caius Caligula the Emperour what time as he made his ridiculous expedition into Batavia that from thence he might blow and breath out the terrour of his owne person over into Britaine As for Togodumnus Aulus Plautius in a set battaile defeited and slew him and over Catacratus whom as I said he discomfited and put to flight hee rode ovant in pety triumph This is that Plautius who at the perswasion of C. Bericus the Britaine a banished man for there never want quarels one or other of Warre was the first after Iulius Caesar that attempted Britaine under Claudius whom Claudius himselfe having shipped over the Legions followed in person with the whole power of the Empire and with Elephants the bones of which
against King Henry the Seaventh to his owne destruction for in the battell at Stoke he was quickly slaine to his fathers death also who for very griefe of heart ended his dayes and to the utter ruine of the whole family which together with them was in a sort extinguished and brought to nothing For his brother Edmund being Earle of Suffolke fled into Flanders began there to conspire and stir up rebellion against King Henry the Seaventh who albeit he feared him would seeme to favour him and as a Prince better contented with repentance than punishment freely pardoned him for sundry offences that he might winne him But after he was thus fled his estate was forfeited and the King never thought himselfe secure from his practises untill he had so farre prevailed with Philip Duke of Burgundy that he was delivered into his hands against the Law of hospitality toward strangers as some then gave out upon solemne promise in the word of a Prince that his life should be spared Neverthelesse he was kept close prisoner and after executed by King Henry the Eighth who thought himselfe not tied to his fathers promise what time as hee first minded to make warre upon France for feare least in his absence some troubles might bee raised at home in his behalfe yet his yonger brother S. Richard de la Pole a banished man in France usurped the title of Duke of Suffolke who being the last male to my knowledge of this house was slaine in the battell of Pavie wherein Francis the first king of France was taken prisoner in the yeer of our Lord 1524. fighting manfully among the thickest of his enemies For whom in consideration of his singular valour and high parentage the Duke of Burbon himselfe although hee was his enemy made a sumptuous funerall and honored the same with his presence in mourning blacke In the meane time king Henry the Eighth adorned Sir Charles Brandon unto whom he had given in marriage his owne sister Marie widdow and Dowager to Lewis the twelfth king of France with the title of Duke of Suffolke and granted to him all the Honours and Manours which Edmund Earle of Suffolke had forfeited After whom succeeded Henry his sonne a childe and after him his brother Charles who both died of the English swet upon one day in the yeere 1551. Then king Edward the Sixth honoured with that title Henry Grey Marquesse Dorset who had married Francis their sister but he enjoying the same but a small time lost his head in Queene Maryes dayes for complotting to make his daughter queen and was the last Duke of Suffolk From that time lay this title of Suffolke void untill that very lately king James advanced to that honour Thomas Lord Howard of Walden the second sonne of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke whom for his approved fidelity and vertue he also made his Lord Chamberlaine in his first entrie into the kingdome The Parishes in this County amount to the number of 575. NORFOLCIAE comitatus quem oliÌ„ ICENI Insederunt Centinens in Sc ovida Mercatoria XXVI Pagos et villas DCXXV â—na Cum Singulis hundrediâ—â—t fluminibus in codem Anâ—â—eri Christophere Saylon NORTH-FOLKE NORTH-FOLKE commonly Norfolke which is by interpretation people of the North lieth Norward of Suffolke from which it is divided by those two little Rivers which I spake of Ouse the least and Waveney running divers wayes on the East and North side the German Ocean which is plentifull of Fish beateth upon the shores with a mighty noise On the West the greater Ouse a River disporting himselfe with his manifold branches and divisions secludeth it from Cambridge-Shire It is a Region large and spacious and in manner all throughout a plaine champion unlesse it bee where there rise gently some pretty Hills passing rich exceeding full of Sheepe and stored with Conyes replenished likewise with a great number of populous Villages for beside twenty seven Mercat townes it is able to shew Villages and Country Townes 625 Watered with divers Rivers and Brookes and not altogether destitute of Woods The soyle according to the variety of places is of a divers nature Some where fat ranke and full of moisture as in Mershland and Flegg otherwhere but Westward especially leane light and sandy elsewhere standing upon clay and chalke But the goodnesse of the ground a man may collect by this whence Varro willeth us to gather it that the Inhabitants are of a passing good complexion to say nothing of their exceeding wily wits and the same right quicke in the insight of our common lawes in so much as it is counted as well now as in times past the onely Country for best breed of Lawyers so that even out of the meanest sort of the common people there may be found not a few who if there were nothing else to beare action or able to fetch matter enough of wrangling controversies even out of the very prickes titles and accents of the Law But least whiles I desire brevity I become long by these digressions which may distaste I will turne my penne from the people to the places and beginning at the South side runne over briefly those which are more memorable and of greater antiquity Upon the least Ouse where Thet a small brooke breaking out of Suffolke meeteth and runneth with him in a low ground was seated that ancient City SITOMAGUS which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of corruptly in the Fragments of an old Choragraphicall table called SIMOMAGUS and SINOMAGUS now Thetford in the Saxon language 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in which remaineth part of the former name with the addition of the English word Ford. For like as Sitomagus in the Brittish tongue implieth a Citie by the river Sit which now is Thet for Magus as Plinie sheweth signified a City so Thetford in English betokeneth the Ford of Thet neither are these two names Sit and Thet much unlike in sound There are in it at this day but few Inhabitants although it be of a good bignesse but in times past it was very populous and beside other tokens of antiquity it hath still to bee seene a great Mount raised to a good height by mens hands fensed with a double rampier and as the report goeth fortified in ancient time with walles which was a Romane worke as some thinke or rather of the English Saxon Kings as others would have it under whom it flourished a long time But after it was sacked first by Suenus the Dane who in a rage set it on fire in the yeere 1004 and sixe yeers after being spoyled againe by the furious Danes it lost all the beauty and dignity that it had For the recovery whereof Bishop Arfast removed his Episcopall See from Elmham hither and Bishop William his successor did all he could to adorne and set it out so that under King Edward the Confessour there were counted in it 947. Burgesses and in William the Conquerours time 720. Mansions whereof 224. stood void
people but now having lost the old name it is called Caster And no marvaile that of the three VENTAE Cities of Britain this onely lost the name seeing it hath quite lost it selfe For beside the ruines of the Walles which containe within a square plot or quadrant about thirty acres and tokens appearing upon the ground where sometimes houses stood and some few peeces of Romane money which are now and then there digged up there is nothing at all remaining But out of this ancient VENTA in the succeeding ages Norwich had her beginning about three miles from hence neere unto the confluents of Yare and another namelesse River some call it Bariden where they meet in one which River with a long course running in and out by Fakenham which King Henry the first gave to Hugh Capell and King John afterward to the Earle of Arundell and making many crooked reaches speedeth it selfe this way by Attilbridge to Yare and leaveth Horsford North from it where a Castle of William Cheneys who in the Raigne of Henry the Second was one of the great Lords and chiefe Peeres of England lieth overgrowne with bushes and brambles This NORVVICH is a famous City called in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is a Northerly Creeke if Wic among the Saxons signifieth the creeke or Cove of a River as Rhenanus sheweth unto us for in this very place the River runneth downe amaine with a crooked and winding compasse or a Northerne Station if Wic as Hadrianus Iunius would have it betokeneth a sure and secure station or place of aboad where dwelling houses stand joyntly and close together or a Northerly Castle if Wic sound as much as Castle as our Archbishop Alfrick the Saxon hath interpreted it But if I should with some others be of opinion that Norwich by a little turning is derived from Venta what should I doe but turne awry from the very truth For by no better right may it challenge unto it selfe the name of Venta than either Basil in Germany the name of AUGUSTA or Baldach of BABYLON For like as Baldach had the beginning of Babylons fall and Basil sprang from the ruine of Augusta even so our Norwich appeared and shewed it selfe though it were late out of that ancient VENTA which the British name thereof Caer Guntum in Authours doth prove wherein like as in the River Wentsum or Wentfar the name of Venta doth most plainely discover it selfe For this name Norwich wee cannot reade of any where in our Chronicles before the Danish warres So farre is it off that either Caesar or Guiteline the Britain built it as they write who are more hasty to beleeve all than to weigh matters with sound judgement But now verily by reason of the wealth the number of Inhabitants and resort of people the faire buildings and faire Churches and those so many for it containeth about thirty Parishes the painefull industry of the Citizens their loyalty towards their Prince and their courtesie unto strangers it is worthily to bee ranged with the most celebrate Cities of Britaine It is right pleasantly situate on the side of an Hill two and fifty Degrees and forty Scrupuls from the Aequator and foure and twenty Degrees and five and fifty Scrupuls in Longitude The forme is somewhat long lying out in length from South to North a mile and an halfe but carrying in breadth about halfe so much drawing it selfe in by little and little at the South end in manner as it were of a cone or sharpe point Compassed it is about with strong walles in which are orderly placed many Turrets and twelve gates unlesse it bee on the East-side where the River after it hath with many windings in and out watered the North part of the City having foure Bridges for men to passe to and fro over it is a Fence thereto with his deepe Chanell there and high steepe bankes In the very infancy as I may so say of this City when Etheldred a witlesse and unadvised Prince raigned Sueno or Swan the Dane who ranged at his pleasure through England with a great rable of spoiling Ravenours first put it to the sacke and afterwards set it on fire Yet it revived againe and as wee reade in that Domesday booke wherein William the Conquerour tooke the review of all England there were by account in King Edward the Confessours time no fewer than one thousand three hundred and twenty Burgesses in it At which time that I may speake out of the same Booke It paid unto the King twenty pounds and to the Earle ten pounds and beside all this twenty shillings and foure Prebendaries and sixe Sextars of Hony also a Beare and sixe Dogges for to bait the Beare but now it paieth seventy pounds by weight to the King and an hundred shillings for a Gersume to the Queene and an ambling Palfrey also twenty pounds Blanc to the Earle and twenty shillings for a Gersume by tale But while the said King William raigned that flaming fire of fatall sedition which Raulph Earle of East England had kindled against the King settled it selfe heere For when hee had saved himselfe by flight his wife together with the French Britons endured in this place a most grievous Siege even to extreme famine yet at length driven she was to this hard pinch that she fled the land and this City was so empaired that scarce 560. Burgesses were left in it as we reade in that Domesday booke Of this yeelding up of the City Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury maketh mention in his Epistle to King William in these words Your Kingdome is purged of these villanous and filthy Britons The Castle of Norwich is rendred up into your hands And the Britons who were therein and had lands in England having life and limme granted unto them are sworne within forty dayes to depart out of your Realme and not enter any more into it without your leave and licence From that time beganne it againe to recover it selfe by little and little out of this diluge of calamities and Bishop Herbert whose good name was cracked for his foule Simony translated the Episcopall See from Thetford hither and built up a very faire Cathedral Church on the East side and lower part of the City in a certaine place then called Cow-holme neere unto the Castle The first stone whereof in the Raigne of King William Rufus and in the yeare after Christs Nativity 1096. himselfe laid with this inscription DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS FILII ET SPIRITUS SANCTI AMEN That is LORD BISHOP HERBERT LAID THE FIRST STONE IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER THE SONNE AND HOLY GHOST AMEN Afterwards he procured of Pope Paschal that it should be established and confirmed for the Mother Church of Norfolke and Suffolke he endowed it bountifully with as much lands as might sufficiently maintaine threescore Monkes who had there faire and spacious Cloysters
Picot Sheriffe of this Shire and of the Peverels from whom by one of the daughters this and other Possessions came unto Sir Gilbert Pech the last of whose house after he had otherwise advanced his children by his second wife ordained King Edward the First to be his Heire For in those dayes the Noble men of England brought into use againe the custome of the Romanes under their Emperours which was to nominate them their heires if they were in any disfavour with their Soveraignes But in the Barons warre in King Henrie the Third his dayes this Castle was burnt downe being set on fire by Ribald L' Isle At which time Walter de Cottenham a respective person was hanged for Rebellion By what name writers termed this River it is a question some call it Granta others Camus And unto these I rather incline both for that the course thereof is somewhat crooked for so much doth Cam in the British tongue signifie whence a certaine crooked river in Cornwall is named Camel and also because that ancient towne CAMBORITUM which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth in his third journey of Britaine stood upon this river as I am well neere induced to beleeve by the distance by the name and also by the peeces of Romane mony found here nigh unto the bridge in great store For CAMBORITUM signifieth A Fourd at Camus or a Fourd with crooked windings For Rith in our British or Welsh tongue betokeneth A Fourd which I note to this end that the Frenchmen may more easily perceive and see what is the meaning of Augustoritum Darioritum Rithomagus and other such like in France Howbeit the Saxons chuse rather to call our Camboritum 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which name it keepeth still but whence it was derived I cannot yet see If I should fetch it from Gron a Saxon word that signifieth a Fenny place I might perhaps goe wide And yet Asserius termed once or twice certaine fennish and marish grounds in Somersetshire by a mungrell name halfe Saxon and halfe Latine Gronnas paludosissimas and very well knowne it is that a City in West Frisland which is situate in such a ground is named Groningen But let other hunt after the derivation of this name About the yeere of Christ 700. this was a little desolate Citty as saith Bede whiles hee reporteth that neere unto the walles there was found a little trough or coffin very cunningly and finely wrought of Marble and covered most fitly with a lidde of the like stone But now a small Village it is one part whereof Henry Lacie Earle of Lincolne gave unto his base sonne Henry with this condition that his sonnes and their posterity which a good while since be cleane worne out should have no other Christian name but Henry the other part Henry the Sixth King of England comming out of the house of Lancaster into whose hands the Patrimony of Earle Lacie fell graunted unto the Kings Colledge in Cambridge which was either a part or else a plant of that ancient Camboritum so neere it commeth unto it both in situation and name Neither can I easily beleeve that Grant was turned into Cam for this might seeme a deflexion some what too hardly streined wherein all the letters but one are quite swallowed up I would rather thinke that the common people reteined the terme of the ancient name of Camboritum or of the river Cam although writers used more often the Saxon name Grantbridge This Citty which being the other University of England the other eye the other strong-stay as it were thereof and a most famous Mart and store-house of good Literature and Godlines standeth upon the river Cam which after it hath in sporting wise besprinkled the West side thereof with many Islets turning into the East divideth it into two parts and hath a Bridge over it whence arose this latter name Cambridge Beyond the bridge is seene a large and ancient Castle which seemeth now to have lived out his full time nigh Maudlen Colledge On this side the Bridge where standeth the greatest part by farre of the City you have a pleasant sight every where to the eye what of fair streets orderly raunged what of a number of Churches and of sixteene Colledges sacred mansions of the Muses wherein a number of great learned men are maintained and wherein the knowledge of the best Arts and the skill in tongues so flourish that they may be rightly counted the fountaines of Literature Religion and all Knowledge whatsoever who right sweetly bedew and sprinkle with most holesom waters the gardens of the Church and Common-wealth through England Neither is there wanting any thing here that a man may require in a most flourishing Vniversity were it not that the ayre is somewhat unhealthfull arising as it doth out of a fenny ground hard by And yet peradventure they that first founded an University in that place allowed of Platoes judgement For he being of a very excellent and strong constitution of body chose out the Academia an unwholsome place of Attica for to study in that so the superfluous ranknesse of body which might overlay the minde might be kept under by the distemperature of the place Neverthelesse for all this our forefathers men of singular wisedome dedicated this place and not without divine direction unto learned Studies and beautified it with notable workes and buildings And least we should seeme in the worst-kinde unthankefull to those singular Patrons of learning or rather that I may use the words of Eumenius toward the Parents of our Children let us summarily rehearse both themselves and the Colledges also which they founded and consecrated to good Literature to their honourable memory and that out of the Cambridge Story The report goeth that Cantaber a Spaniard 375. yeeres before the Nativity of Christ first began and founded this University Also that Sebert King of the East-Angles restored it againe in the yeere after Christs birth 630. Afterwards being other whiles overthrowne and destroyed with the Danish stormes it lay a long time forlorne and of no account untill all began to revive under the Normans governement And not long after Innes Hostels and Halles were built for Scholers howbeit endowed with no possessions But Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely in the yeere 1284. built the first Colledge called Peter-house and endowed it with Lands whose example these ensuing did imitate and follow Richard Badew with the good helpe and furtherance of Lady Elizabeth Clare Countesse of Vlster in the yeere 1340. founded Clare Hall Lady Mary S. Paul Countesse of Pembroch in the yeere 1347. Pembroch Hall The Guild or Society of Corpus Christi Brethren Corpus Christi Colledge which is called also S. Bennet Colledge William Bateman Bishop of Norwich about the yeere 1353. Trinity Hall Edmund Gonevil in the yeere 1348. and Iohn Caius Doctor of Physicke in our time Gonevil and Caius Colledge Henry the Sixth King
of pompe for a gallant shew Verily of our Nation therâ— be none that apply their mindes so seriously as they doe to husbandry which Columella termeth the neere cozin of Wisedome whether you respect their skill therein or their ability to beare the expences and their willing mind withall to take the paines Henry of Huntingdon before named calleth it a Village in his daies not unlovely and truly writeth that in times past it had been a noble City For to say nothing of Roman peeces of coine oftentimes there ploughed up nor of the distance in the old Itinerary the very signification of the name may probably prove that this was the very same City which Antonine the Emperor termed DUROLIPONTE amisse in stead of DUROSIPONTE For Durosi-ponte pardon me I pray you for changing one letter soundeth in the British tongue A bridge over the water Ose. And that this River is named indifferently and without distinction Vse Ise Ose and Ouse all men confesse But when this name was under the Danes quite abolished it began to be called Gormoncester of Gormon the Dane unto whom after agreement of peace King Aelfred granted these Provinces Hereto this old Verse giveth testimony Gormonis à castri nomine nomen habet Gormonchester at this howre Takes the name of Gormons Towre This is that Gormon of whom John Picus an old Author writeth in this wise King Aelfred conquered and subdued the Danes so that they gave what hostages hee would for assurance either to be packing out of the Land or else to become Christians Which thing also was effected For their King Guthrum whom they call Gormond with thirty of his Nobles and well neere all his people was baptized and adopted by Aelfred as his Sonne and by him named Athelstan Whereupon he remained heere and the Provinces of the East-English and of the Northumbrians were given to him that continuing in his allegiance under the Kings protection he might cherish and also maintain them as his inheritance which he had formerly overrun with spoile and robbery Neither would this be omitted that some also of those ancient Writers have termed this place Gumicester and Gumicastrum avoucheth withall that Machutus a Bishop had heere his Episcopall See And by the name of Gumicester King Henry the Third granted it to his sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster Ouse making haste speedily from hence when he was about to enter into Cambridgeshire passeth through most delightsome medowes hard by a proper and faire towne which sometime in the English-Saxon tongue was called Slepe and now S. Ives of Ivo a Persian Bishop who as they write about the yeare of Christ 600. travailed through England preached diligently the Word of God and to this Towne wherein he left this life left also his name From whence notwithstanding shortly after the religious persons translated his body to Ramsey Abbay Turning aside from hence scarce three miles wee saw Somersham a faire dwelling house of late dayes belonging to the Bishops of Ely which Earle Brithnot in the yeare 991. gave to Ely Church and James Stanley the lavish and expencefull Bishop enlarged with new buildings A little above that most wealthy Abbay Ramsey was situate amiddest the Fennes where the Rivers become standing waters when they have once found a soft kinde of Soile The description of this place have here if it please you out of the private History of this Abbay Ramsey that is The Rams Isle on the West side for on other sides fennish grounds through which one cannot passe stretch out farre and wide is severed from the firme ground almost two bow-shots off by certaine uneven and quaggy miry plots Which place being wonâ— in times past to receive gently within the bosome and brinkes thereof Vessels arriving there with milde gales of winde in a shallow River onely now through great labour and cost after the foule and dirty quagmires aforesaid were stopped up with heapes of wood gravell and stones together men may passe into on foote on the same side upon a dry causey and it lieth out in length almost two miles but spreadeth not all out so much in bredth which notwithstanding is beset round about with beautifull rowes of Alder-trees and reed plots that with fresh greene canes and streight bulrushes among make a faire and pleasant shew and before it was inhabited garnished and bedecked all over with many sorts of trees but of wilde Ashâ—s especially in great aboundance But now after longer tract of time part of these groves and woods being cut downe it is become arable ground of a very fat and plentifull mould for fruit rich pleasant for corne planted with gardens wealthy in pastures and in the Spring time the medowes arraied with pleasant flowers smile upon the beholders and the whole Island seemeth embroidered as it were with variety of gay colours Besides that it is compassed all about with Meres full of Eeles and pooles replenished with fish of many sorts and with fowle there bred and nourished Of which Meres one is called after the name of the Island Ramsey Mere farre excelling all the other waters adjoyning in beauty and fertility on that side where the Isle is counted bigger and the wood thicker flowing daintily by the sandy banke thereof yeeldeth a very delectable sight to behold in the very gulfes whereof by casting as well of great wide mashed nets as of other sorts by laying also of hookes baited and other instruments devised by fishers craft are caught oftentimes and drawne certaine Pikes of an huge and wonderfull bignesse which the Inhabitants call Hakeds and albeit the fowlers doe continually haunt the place and catch great store of young water-fowle yet there is abundance alwaies that remaineth untaken Furthermore that History sheweth at large how Ailwin a man of the bloud royall and for the speciall great authority and favour that hee had with the King sirnamed Healf-Koning that is Halfe King being admonished and mooved thereunto by a Fishers dreame built it how Oswald the Bishop furthered and enlarged it how Kings and others endowed it with so faire revenewes that for the maintenance of threescore Monkes it might dispend by the yeare seven thousand pounds of our English money But seeing it is now pulled downe and destroyed some may thinke I have already spoken overmuch thereof Yet hereto I will annexe out of the same Authour the Epitaph of Ailwins Tombe for that it exhibiteth unto us an unusuall and strange title of a Dignity HIC REQUIESCIT AILWINUS INCLITI REGIS EADGARI COGNATUS TOTIUS ANGLIAE ALDERMANNUS ET HUJUS SACRI COENOBII MIRACULOSUS FUNDATOR HERE RESTETH AILWIN COZIN TO THE NOBLE KING EADGAR ALDERMAN OF ALL ENGLAND AND OF THIS HOLY ABBAY THE MIRACULOUS FOUNDER From hence to Peterborough which is about ten miles off King Canutus because travailing that way and finding it very combersome by reason of swelling Brookes and sloughs with great cost and labour made a paved Causey which
military Fenses seeme to bee which are heere seene at Gildsborough and Dantrey betweene the Springheads of the two Aufons which run divers waies and where onely there is passage into the hither part of Britaine without any rivers to hinder it That fort at Gildsborough is great and large but this at Dantrey is greater and larger For being foure square upon an high hill from whence all the country beneath may bee seene farre every way about and having on the East side a Mount which they call Spelwell it encloseth within a banke cast up by mans hand more than one hundred acres of ground or thereabout Within which the country people other whiles finde coined peeces of money of the Roman Emperors as proofes of the antiquity thereof Much deceived are they therefore who will needs have it to bee a worke of the Danes and that of them the towne under it was named Dantrey which being a through-fare well knowne at this day by reason of the Innes there had a religious house of the Austen Friers that Sir H. de Fawesley founded as I have read At the head of Aufona or Nen standeth Catesby that gave name to an ancient Family but now of foule tainted memory for a most horrible and damnable complot never in any age exampled which that Robert Catesby of Ashby S. Leger the shame and indelible staine of his house and name detestably breathing forth savage cruelty in barbarous wise and compassing impiously the destruction of Prince and Country devised lately under a specious pretext of Religion Of whom let all times be silent least by making mention of him the foule staine and blot of our age appeare unto Posterity at the naming whereof we cannot chuse but with horror grieve and groane againe seeing the very dumbe and livelesse creatures seeme to be moved and troubled at so hellish Villany imagined by him and his complices Hard by it is Fawesley where have dwelt a long time the Knightleies worshipfull Knights descended from those more ancient Knightleies of Gnowshall in the County of Stafford and more Eastward hard by Nen as yet very small there is Wedon in the street sometimes the royall seat of Wolpher K. of the Mercians and converted into a Monastery by his daughter Werburg a most holy Virgine of whose miracles in driving away Geese from hence some credulous writers have made many a tale Verily I should wrong the Truth if I should not thinke albeit I have thought otherwise that this Wedon is the very station that Antonine the Emperour nameth BANNAVENNA BENNAVENNA BENNAVENTA and once corruptly ISANNAVENTA notwithstanding there now remaine no expresse tokens of that name considering how Time changeth all both names and things For the distance from the next stations and baiting Townes which were in ancient times answereth just and in the very name of BANNAVENNA the name of the River Aufon the head whereof is neere unto it in some sort doth plainly discover it selfe Likewise the high Port-way or Romane street goeth directly from hence Northward with a bridge or causey oft broken and worne out but most of all over against a Village named Creek where it was of necessity that there should be a bridge but in other places the bridge sheweth it selfe also as farre as to Dowbridge neere Lilborne most apparantly Somewhat more Northward wee saw Althorp the habitation of the Spensers knights allied to very many and those most honorable and worshipfull families out of which house Sir Robert Spenser the fifth Knight in a successive continued Descent a respective lover of vertue and learning was by our most gracious Soveraigne King James advanced to the honour of Baron Spenser of Wormeleighton Hard by Althorp Holdenby house a faire patterne of stately and magnificent building maketh a faire glorious shew which Sir Chistopher Hatton one of Queene Elizabeths Privie Councell Lord Chancellor of England and knight of the Order of the Garter built upon the lands and inheritance of his great grandmother heire unto the Family of the Holdenbeis for the greatest and last monument as himselfe afterwards was wont to say of his youth A man to say nothing of him but that which in truth is due for Religion and godlinesse right devout of approved faithfulnesse to the State of incorrupt equity for almesdeeds of all others most bountifull and one which is not the least part of his praise that was most willing and ready to support and maintaine learning Who as he lived a godly life so as godly he slept in Christ yet his commendation made knowne by the lightsome testimony of letters shall shine forth more cleerely than by that gorgeous Monument right well beseeming so great a Personage which Sir William Hatton his adopted sonne consecrated to his memory in the Church of Saint Paul in London Beneath these places Nen passeth on forward with a still and small streame and anone taketh in a small Brooke from the North and is thereby augmented where at the very meeting and confluence of both a City called after the River Northafandon and short Northampton is so seated that on the West side it is watered with the Brooke and on the South side with the foresaid Nen. Which City I was of late easily induced to guesse to have beene that ancient BENNAVENTA but if my conjecture missed the trueth the confession of my errour may salve it As for the name it may seeme to haue beene imposed of the situation thereof upon the North banke of the River Aufon The City it selfe which seemeth to have beene built all of stone is I assure you for houses very faire for circuit of good largenesse and walled about and from the Wall yee have a goodly prospect every way to a wide and spacious plaine Country On the West side it hath an old Castle and the very antiquity thereof giveth a grace unto it built by Simon de Sancto Lizio commonly called Senlyz the first of that name Earle of Northampton who also joyned unto it a beautifull Church called Saint Andrews for a place of his owne buriall and as men say reedified the Towne Simon also the younger his sonne founded without the Towne a Monastery commonly called De la prey for Nunnes During the Saxons Heptarchie it seemeth to have lien forlorne and of none account neither have Writers made any where mention of it in all those depredations of the Danes unlesse it were when Sweno the Dane in a furious and outragious moode made most cruelly havocke throughout all England for then as Henry of Huntingdon recordeth it was set on fire and burnt to the ground In the Raigne of Saint Edward the Confessour there were in it as we finde in the Survey Booke of England LX. Burgesses in the Kings Domaine having as many Mansions Of these in King William the Conquerours time Foureteene lay waste and voide and forty seaven remained Over and above these there were in the new Burrough forty Burgesses in the
the eldest Daughter and hee built Saint Andrewes Church and the Castle at Northampton After him succeeded his sonne Simon the second who a long time was in suite about his mothers possessions with David King of Scots his mothers second husband and having sided with King Stephen in the yeere of our Lord 1152. departed this life with this testimoniall that went of him A Youth full fraught with all unlawfull wickednesse and as full of all unseemely lewdnesse His sonne Simon the third having gone to law with the Scots for his right to the Earldome of Huntingdon wasted all his estate and through the gracious goodnesse of King Henry the Second married the Daughter and Heire of Gilbert de Gaunt Earle of Lincolne and in the end having recovered the Earledome of Huntingdon and disseized the Scots dyed childelesse in the yeare 1185. Whereas some have lately set downe Sir Richard Gobion to have beene Earle of Northampton afterward I finde no warrant thereof either in Record or History Onely I finde that Sir Hugh Gobion was a Ringleader in that rebellious rable which held Northampton against king Henry the Third and that the inheritance of his house came shortly after by marriage to Butler of Woodhall and Turpin c. But this is most certaine that King Edward the Third created William de Bohun a man of approved valour Earle of Northampton and when his elder brother Humfrey de Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex High Constable also of England was not sufficient in that warlike age to beare that charge of the Constable he made him also High Constable of England After him his sonne Humfrey succeeding in the Earledome of Northampton as also in the Earledomes of Hereford and of Essex for that his Unckle dyed with issue begat two Daughters the one bestowed in marriage upon Thomas of Woodstocke the youngest sonne of King Edward the Third the other upon Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford who afterwards attained to the Crowne by the name of King Henry the Fourth The Daughter of the said Thomas of Woodstocke brought by her marriage this Title of Northampton with others into the Family of the Staffords But when they afterwards had lost their honours and dignities King Edward the Sixth honoured Sir William Parr Earle of Essex a most accomplished Courtier with the Title of Marquesse of Northampton who within our remembrance ended this life issuelesse And while I was writing and perusing this Worke our most sacred Soveraigne King James in the yeere of our Salvation 1603. upon one and the same day advanced Lord Henry Howard brother to the last Duke of Norfolke a man of rare and excellent wit and sweet fluent eloquence singularly adorned also with the best sciences prudent in counsell and provident withall to the state of Baron Howard of Marnehill and the right honourable name title stile and Dignity of Earle of Northampton There belong unto this Shire Parishes 326. LECESTRIAE COMITATVS SIVE Leicestershyre PARS OLIM CORITANORVM LEICESTER-SHIRE ON the North side of Northampton-shire boundeth LEICESTER-SHIRE called in that Booke wherein William the Conquerour set downe his Survey of England Ledecester-shire a champian Country likewise throughout bearing corne in great plenty but for the most part without Woods It hath bordering upon it on the East side both Rutland-shire and Lincoln-shire on the North Nottingham and Derby-shires and Warwick-shire on the West For the high Rode way made by the Romanes called Watling-streat directly running along the West skirt separateth it from Warwick-shire and on the South side as I noted even now lyeth Northampton-shire Through the middle part thereof passeth the River Soar taking his way toward the Trent but over the East-part a little River called Wreke gently wandereth which at length findeth his way into the foresaid Soar On the South side where it is divided on the one hand with the River Avon the lesse and on the other with the River Welland we meet with nothing worth relation unlesse it be on Wellands banke whiles he is yet but small and newly come from his head with Haverburgh commonly called Harborrow a Towne most celebrate heereabout for a Faire of Cattaile there kept and as for Carleton as one would say the husband-mens Towne that is not farre from it wherein I wote not whether it be worth the relating all in manner that are borne whether it bee by a peculiar property of the Soile or the water or else by some other secret operation of nature have an ill favoured untunable and harsh manner of speech fetching their words with very much adoe deepe from out of the throat with a certaine kinde of wharling That Romane streete way aforesaid the causey whereof being in some other places quite worne and eaten away heere most evidently sheweth itselfe passeth on directly as it were by a streight line Northward through the West side of this Province The very tract of which street I my selfe diligently traced and followed even from the Tamis to Wales purposely to seeke out Townes of ancient memory laugh you will perhaps at this my painfull and expencefull diligence as vainly curious neither could I repose my trust upon a more faithfull guide for the finding out of those said townes which Antonine the Emperour specifieth in his Itinerary This Street-way being past Dowbridge where it leaveth Northampton-shire behinde it is interrupted first with the River Swift that is indeed but slow although the name import swiftnesse which it maketh good onely in the Winter moneths The Bridge over it now called Bransford and Bensford Bridge which heere conjoyned in times past this way having been of long time broken downe hath beene the cause that so famous a way for a great while was the lesse frequented but now at the common charge of the country it is repaired Upon this way lyeth of the one side Westward Cester-Over but it is in Warwick-shire a place worth the naming were it but in regard of the Lord thereof Sir Foulke Grevill a right worshipfull and worthy knight although the very name it selfe may witnesse the antiquity for our ancestours added this word Cester to no other places but only cities On the other side of the way Eastward hard by water Swift which springeth neere Knaptoft the seat of the Turpins a knightly house descended from an heire of the Gobions lieth Misterton belonging to the ancient family of the Poulteneis who tooke that name of Poulteney a place now decaied within the said Lordship Neere to it is Lutterworth a Mercate Towne the possession in times past of the Verdons which onely sheweth a faire Church which hath beene encreased by the Feldings of knights degree and ancient gentry in this Shire That famous John Wickliffe was sometime Parson of this Church a man of a singular polite and well wrought wit most conversant also in the holy Scripture who for that he had sharpened the neb of his pen against the Popes authority the Church
that in our Britaine Tallhin Glan-lhin and Lhinlithquo are townes by lakes sides This Citie it selfe being large well inhabited and frequented standeth upon the side of an hill where Witham bendeth his course Eastward and being divided with three small chanels watereth the lower part of the Citie That the ancient LINDUM of the Britans stood on the very top of the hill which had a very hard ascent up to it and reached out beyond the gate called Newport the expresse tokens of a rampier and deepe ditches which are yet very evident doe plainely shew In this City Vortimer that warlike Britan who many a time discomfited the Saxons and put them to flight ended his daies and was heere contrary to his owne commandement buried For he was in a full and assured hope perswaded that if he were enterred in the sea shore his very ghost was able to protect the Britans from the Saxons as writeth Ninius the disciple of Elvodugus But the English Saxons after they had rased this old Lindum first possessed themselves of the South side of the hill at the foot whereof they built as it seemeth the gate yet standing compiled of vast stones and with the ruines of that more ancient Towne fortified it Afterwards they went downe lower to the river side built in a place that was called Wickanford and walled it about on that side which is not fensed by the River At which time as saith Bede Paulinus preached the Word of God unto the Province of Lindsey and first of all converted unto the Lord the Governour or Provost of Lincolne City whose name was Blecca with his family In which very City hee built also a Church of goodly stone worke the roofe whereof being either fallen for want of repaire or cast downe by the violent hand of enemies the walles are seene standing to this day After this the Danes wonne it by assault once or twice First those troupes of spoiling mates out of whose hands King Edmund Ironside wrested it by force then Canutus from whom Aetheldred regained it when upon his returne out of Normandy he valiantly forced Canutus to abandon the towne and beyond all hope recovered England which before was lost In the Raigne of Edward the Confessour there were in it as Domesday booke recordeth a thousand and seventy Mansions with lodgings to give entertainment and twelve Lage men having Sac and Soc. But in the Normans time as saith William of Malmesbury It was one of the best peopled Cities of England and a place of traffique and merchandise for all commers by sea and land and as the same Domesday booke saith there were at that time counted and taxed in this City 900. Burgesses and many Mansions were laied waste 166. for the Castle and other 74. without the precinct of the Castle not through the oppression of the Sheriffe and his Ministers but by reason of mishap poverty and casualty by fire The said King William the Conqueror for the strengthning of it and terrour of the Citizens raised a passing large and strong Castle upon the brow of the hill and almost at the very same time Remigius Bishop of Dorchester for to give credit and ornament thereto translated hither his Episcopall seat from Dorchester which was in the most remote corner of his Dioecesse and a small Towne And when by this time that Church which Paulinus had built was quite gone to decay the same Remigius having purchased certaine houses with grounds lying unto them in the very highest place of the City neere unto the Castle as Henry of Huntingdon saith mounting up aloft with high and stately towres built in a strong place a strong Church in a faire plot a faire Church and dedicated it to the Virgin of Virgins notwithstanding the Archbishop of Yorke was enraged thereat who chalenged to himselfe the propriety of the soile and in it ordained 44. Prebendaries Which Church afterwards being sorely defaced with fire as he saith Alexander that most bountiful Bishop of Lincolne repaired with skilfull artificiall workemanship Of whom William of Malmesbury reporteth because for his little low stature hee was a dwarfe among men his minde laboured to rise aloft and shew it selfe to the world with outward workes And as concerning his bounty a Poet of that time among other things wrote thus Qui dare festinans gratis ne danda rogentur Quod nondum dederat nondum se credit habere Who hastening frankly for to give for feare that folke should crave He never thought that he had that which yet he never gave Besides these two Bishops already mentioned Robert Bloet who sat there before Alexander R. de Beaumeis Hugh a Burgundian and their Successours by little and little brought this Church which could not bee one Bishops worke to the stately magnificence that now it carryeth Certes as it is built it is all throughout not onely most sumptuous but also passing beautifull and that with rare and singular workmanship but especially that fore-front at the West end which in a sort ravisheth and allureth the eyes of all that come toward it In this Church although there bee divers Monuments of Bishops and others yet these onely seeme memorable That of Copper wherein the bowels of that right noble and vertuous Queene Aeleonor wife to King Edward the First are bestowed who died at Hardby in this Shire as also these following wherein lye interred Sir Nicolas Cantlow one or two of the Family of Burghersh Lady Catherine Swinford the third wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster and mother of the house of Somerset with whom lyeth buryed Joan her daughter second wife to Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmerland who enriched her husband with many happy children The Bishops Diocesse of Lincolne not content with those streit limits wherewith the Bishops of Sidnacester who had Episcopall jurisdiction over this shire contented themselves in the Primitive Church of the English Nation conteined under it so many countries as that the greatnesse thereof was burdenous unto it And although King Henry the Second tooke out of it the Province of Ely and King Henry the Eighth the Bishopricks of Peterbourgh and of Oxford yet still at this day it is counted the greatest Diocesse by farre of all England both for jurisdiction and number of shires and the Bishop hath in his Diocesse one thousand two hundred forty seven Parish Churches Many and great Bishops since Remigius his time have governed this See whom to reckon up is no part of my purpose For I will not insist either upon Robert Bloet from whom King William Rufus wrung 50000. pounds for securing his title in the very City of Lincolne it selfe which was found defective nor upon that prodigall and profuse Alexander who in exceeding stately buildings was so excessively delighted ne yet upon Hugh the Burgundian Canonized a Saint whose corps King John with his Nobles and friends about him to performe as mine author saith a dutifull service to God and that holy
hidden within the net But these things I leave to their observation who either take pleasure earnestly to hunt after Natures workes or being borne to pamper the belly delight to send their estates downe the throat More Westward the River Trent also after he hath ended his long course is received into the Humber after it hath with his sandy banke bounded this shire from Fossedike hither having runne downe first not farre from Stow where Godive the wife of Earle Leofricke built a Monastery which for the low site that it hath under the hills Henry of Huntingdon saith to have beene founded Vnder the Promontory of Lincolne Then neere unto Knath now the habitation of Baron Willoughy of Parrham in times past of the family of the Barons Darcy who had very much encrease both in honor and also of possessions by the daughter and heire of the Meinills This Family of the Darcyes proceeded from another more ancient to wit from one whose name was Norman de Adrecy or Darcy de Nocton who flourished in high reputation under King Henry the Third and whose successours endowed with lands the little Nunnery at Alvingham in this County But this dignity is as it were extinct for that the last Norman in the right line which is more ancient left behinde him onely two sisters of which the one was married to Roger Pedwardine the other to Peter of Limbergh Then runneth the Trent downe to Gainesborrow a towne ennobled by reason of the Danes ships that lay there at rode and also for the death of Suene Tiugs-Kege a Danish Tyrant who after he had robbed and spoiled the country as Matthew of Westminster writeth being heere stabbed to death by an unknowne man suffered due punishment at length for his wickednesse and villany Many a yeere after this it became the possession of Sir William de Valence Earle of Pembroch who obtained for it of king Edward the First the liberty to keepe a Faire From which Earle by the Scottish Earles of Athol and the Piercies descended the Barons of Bourough who heere dwelt concerning whom I have written already in Surry In this part of the Shire stood long since the City Sidnacester which affoorded a See to the Bishops of this Tract who were called the Bishops of Lindifars But this City is now so farre out of all sight and knowledge that together with the name the very ruines also seeme to have perished for by all my curious enquiry I could learne nothing of it Neither must I overpasse that in this Quarter at Melwood there flourished the family of Saint Paul corruptly called Sampoll Knights which I alwaies thought to have beene of that ancient Castilion race of the Earles of Saint Paul in France But the Coat-Armour of Luxemburgh which they beare implieth that they are come out of France since that the said Castilion stocke of Saint Paul was by marriage implanted into that of Luxemburgh which happened two hundred yeeres since or thereabout Above this place the Rivers of Trent Idell and Dane doe so disport themselves with the division of their streames and Marishes caused by them and other Springs as they enclose within them the River-Island of Axelholme in the Saxon Tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is a parcell of Lincolne-shire It carryeth in length from South to North ten miles and in breadth not past halfe so much The flat and lower part of it toward the Rivers is marish ground and bringeth forth an odoriferous kinde of shrub which they tearme Gall. It yeeldeth also Pets in the Mores and dead rootes of fir-wood which in burning give a ranke sweet savour There also have beene found great and long firre-trees while they digged for Pet both within the Isle and also without at Laâ—ghton upon Trent banke the old habitation of the family of D'alanson now contractly called Dalison The middle parts of this Isle where it riseth gently with some ascent is fruitefull and fertile and yeeldeth flax in great aboundance also the Alabaster stone and yet the same being not very solide but brittle is more meet for pargetting and plaister-worke than for other uses The chiefe Towne called in old time Axel is now named Axey whence by putting to the Saxon word Holme which they used for a River-Island the name no doubt was compounded But scarce deserveth it to bee called a Towne it is so scatteringly inhabited and yet it is able to shew the plot of ground where a Castle stood that was rased in the Barons warre and which belonged to the Mowbraies who at that time possessed a great part of the Isle In the yeere 1173. as writeth an old Chronographer Roger de Mowbray forsaking his Allegeance to the Elder King repaired the Castle at Kinard Ferry in the Isle of Axholme which had beene of old time destroyed Against whom a number of Lincoln-shire men making head when they had passed over the water in barges laid siege to the Castle forced the Constable thereof and all the souldiers to yeeld and overthrew the said Castle Somewhat higher is Botterwic the Lord whereof Sir Edmund Sheffeld King Edward the Sixth created the first Baron Sheffeld of Botherwic who for his country spent his life against the Rebels in Norfolke having begotten of Anne Vere the Earle of Oxfords daughter a sonne named John the second Baron and father to Edmund now Lord Sheffeld a right honourable Knight of the Garter President of the Councell established in the North. But more into the North I saw Burton Stather standing upon the other side of Trent whereof I have hetherto read nothing memorable This Shire glorieth in the Earles which have borne Title thereof After Egga who flourished in the yeere 710. and Morcar both Saxons and who were Earles by office onely William de Romara a Norman was the first Earle after the Conquest in whose roome being dead for neither his sonne whereas he died before his father nor his grand-child enjoied this title King Stephen placed Gilbert de Gaunt After whose decease Simon de Saint Lyz the younger the sonne of Earle Simon you reade the very words of Robert Montensis who lived about that time Wanting lands by the gracious gift of King Henry the Second tooke his onely daughter to wife with her his honour also After this Lewis of France who was by the seditious Barons brought into England girt a second Gilbert out of the Family de Gaunt with the sword of the Earldome of Lincolne but when the said Lewis was soone after expelled the land no man acknowledged him for Earle and himselfe of his owne accord relinquished that title Then Raulph the sixth Earle of Chester obtained this honour of King Henry the Third who a little before his death gave unto Hawise or Avis his sister the wife of Robert De Quincy by Charter the Earledome of Lincolne so farre forth as appertained unto him that shee might bee Countesse
Burbon taken prisoner in the battaile of Agincourt was detained nineteene yeeres under the custody of Sir Nicholas Montgomery the younger Scarce five miles hence Northward the River Derwent hath his walke who in the utmost limit as I said before of this Shire Northward deriving his head out of the Peak hils being one while streitned betweene crags and sometimes another while watering and cherishing the fresh greene medowes by mossie and morish grounds holdeth on his course for thirty miles or thereabout directly as it were into the South Howbeit in so long a course hee passeth by nothing worth looking on except Chattesworth a very large faire and stately house which Sir William Candish or Cavendish descended out of that ancient house of Gernon in Suffolke beganne and which his Wife Elizabeth and after Countesse of Shrewesbury hath of late with great charges fully finished But where Derwent turneth somewhat Eastward when it is once past Little Chester that is Little City where old peeces of Roman money are often times gotten out of the ground Darby sheweth it selfe in the English-Saxon Tongue named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and by the Danes as Athelward that ancient Writer witnesseth Deoraby the chiefe Towne of all this Shire which name being taken from the River Derwent and contracted from Derwentby it hath bestowed upon the whole County A proper Towne it is none of the least not without good trade and resort unto it On the East side of it the River Derwent making a very faire shew runneth downe carrying a full and lofty streame under a beautifull stone Bridge upon which our devout forefathers erected a faire Chappell which now is neglected and goeth to decay Through the South part thereof runneth a prety cleere Riveret which they call Mertenbrooke Five Churches there be in it Of which the greatest named All Hallowes dedicated to the memory of All-Saints hath a Towre Steeple that for height and singular fine Workemanship excelleth In which Church the Countesse of Shrewesbury of whom erewhile I spake trusting her selfe better than her heires providently erected a Sepulture for her selfe and as religiously founded an Hospitall hard by for the maintenance of twelve poore folke eight men and foure women Memorable in old time was this place because it had beene a lurking hole and a Rendevous for the Danes untill Ethelfleda that victorious Lady of the Mercians by a suddaine forceable surprise made a slaughter of the Danes and became Mistresse of it In the time of King Edward the Confessour as wee finde in Domesday booke it had 143. Burgesses whose number notwithstanding decreased so that in William the Conquerours Raigne there remained onely an hundred And these paid unto the King at the feast of Saint Martin 12. Trabes of Corne. But now all the name and credit that it hath ariseth of the Assisses there kept for the whole shire and by the best â—appy ale that is brewed there a drinke so called of the Danish word Oela somewhat wrested and not of Alica as Ruellius deriveth it the Britans termed it by an old word Kwrw in steade whereof Curmi is read amisse in Dioscorides where hee saith that the Hiberi perchance he would have said Hiberni that is The Irishmen in lieu of wine use Curmi a kinde of drinke made of Barly For this is that Barly-wine of ours which Julian the Emperour that Apostata calleth merrily in an Epigramme 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 This is the ancient and peculiar drinke of the Englishmen and Britans yea and the same very wholsome howsoever Henry of Aurenches the Norman Arch-poet to King Henry the Third did in his pleasant wit merrily jest upon it in these Verses Nescio quod Stygiae monstrum conforme paludi Cervisiam plerique vocant nil spissius illa Dum bibitur nil clarius est dum mingitur unde Constat quòd multas faeces in ventre relinquit Of this strange drinke so like to Stygian lake Most tearme it Ale I wote not what to make Folke drinke it thicke and pisse it passing thin Much dregges therefore must needs remaine within Howbeit Turnebus that most learned Frenchman maketh no doubt but that men using to drinke heereof if they could avoid surfetting would live longer than those that drinke wine and that from hence it is that many of us drinking Ale live an hundred yeeres And yet Asclepiades in Plutarch ascribeth this long life to the coldnesse of the aire which keepeth in and preserveth the naturall heat in bodies when he made report that the Britans lived untill they were an hundred and twenty yeeres old But the wealth of this Towne consisteth much in buying of corne and selling it againe to the mountaines for all the Inhabitants be as it were a kinde of hucksters or badgers Not farre from hence doth Derwent carry his streame where by Elwaston Sir Raulph Montjoye had lands in the time of Edward the First from whence came Sir Walter Blunt whom King Edward the Fourth advanced to the honour of Baron Montjoye with a pension whose posterity have equalled the nobility of their birth with the ornaments of learning and principally among them Charles late Earle of Devonshire Baron Montjoy Lord Lieutenant Generall of Ireland and Knight of the Order of the Garter Beneath this Elwaston Derwent disburdeneth himselfe into the chanell of Trent which within a while admitteth into it the River Erewash that in this part serveth as a limit to divide this country from Nottingham-shire Neere unto this River standeth Riseley a possession of the Willoughbeies of which family was that Sir Hugh Willoughby as I have heard say who whiles hee endevoured to discover the Frozen Sea neere unto Wardhous in Scandia was frozen to death together with his company in the same ship Hard by it also is Sandiacre or as others will have it Sainct Diacre the seat of the Family of the Greies of Sandiacre whose inheritance Sir Edward Hilary in right of his wife was first possessed of and whose sonne became adopted into the name of the Greies and a few yeeres after the one of his daughters and heires wedded to Sir John Leake and the other to John Welsh On the East side of this Shire there follow in order Northward these places Codenor in old time Coutenoure Castle which belonged to the Barons Grey called thereupon Lords Grey of Codenor whose inheritance in the foregoing age came to the Zouches by the marriage that Sir John de la Zouch the second sonne of William Lord de la Zouch of Haringworth contracted with Elizabeth the heire of Henry Grey the last Lord of Codenor Then Winfeld a very great and goodly Manour where Raulph Lord Cromwell in the Raigne of Henry the Sixth built a sumptuous and stately house for those daies After it you see Alffreton which men thinke to have beene built by King Alfred and of him to have taken that name which Towne had also Lords entituled
Iustice of the Common Pleas and a very great lover of learning But he hath now taken his quiet sleepe in Christ and left his sonne Sir Roger Owen for his manifold learning a right worthy sonne of so good a father This is holden of the King as we reade in the Records In chiefe to finde two footmen one day in the army of Wales in time of warre Which I note heere once for all to this end that I may give to understand that Gentlemen and Noblemen heereabout held their inheritances of the Kings of England by this tenure to be ready in service with Souldiers for defence of the Marches whensoever there should be any warre betweene England and Wales Neere unto this there is a little Village named Pichford that imparted the name in times past to the ancient Family of Pichford now the Possession of R. Oteley which our Ancestours for that they knew not pitch from Bitumen so called of a fountaine of Bitumen there in a private mans yard upon which there riseth and swimmeth a kinde of liquid Bitumen daily skumme it off never so diligently even as it doth in the Lake Asphaltites in Iewry in a standing water about Samosata and in a spring by Agrigentum in Sicilie But whether this bee good against the falling sicknesse and have a powerfull property to draw to close up wounds c. as that in Iewry none that I know as yet have made experiment More Westward you may see Pouderbach Castle now decayed and ruinous called in times past Pulrebach the seat of Sir Raulph Butler a younger sonne of Raulph Butler Lord Wem from whom the Butlers of Woodhall in Hertford-shire are lineally descended Beneath this Huckstow Forest spreadeth a great way among the mountaines where at Stipperstons bill there be great heapes of stones and little rockes as it were that rise thicke together the Britans call them Carneddau tewion But whereas as these seeme naturall I dare not with others so much as conjecture that these were any of those stones which Giraldus Cambrensis seemeth to note in these words Harald in person being himselfe the last footeman in marching with footemen and light Armours and victuals answerable for service in Wales valiantly went round about and passed through all Wales so as that he left but few or none alive And for a perpetuall memory of this Victory you may finde very many stones in Wales erected after the antique manner upon hillockes in those places wherein hee had beene Conquerour having these words engraven HIC FVIT VICTOR HARALDVS Heere was Harald Conquerour More Northward Caurse Castle standeth which was the Barony of Sir Peter Corbet from whom it came to the Barons of Stafford and Routon Castle neere unto it the most ancient of all the rest toward the West borders of the Shire not farre from Severn which Castle sometimes belonged to the Corbets and now to the ancient Family of the Listers Before time it was the possession of Iohn le Strange of Knocking in despite of whom Lhewellin Prince of Wales laid it even with the ground as we read in the life of Sir Foulque Fitz-Warin It flourished also in the Romans time under the same name tearmed by Antonine the Emperour RUTUNIUM Neither can wee mistake herein seeing both the name and that distance from URICONIUM a towne full well knowne which he putteth downe doe most exactly agree Neere unto this are Abberbury Castle and Watlesbury which is come from the Corbets to the notable family of the Leightons Knights As for the name it seemeth to have taken it from that High Port-way called Watling street which went this way into the farthest part of Wales as Ranulph of Chester writeth by two little Townes of that street called Strettons betweene which in a valley are yet to be seene the rubbish of an old Castle called Brocards Castle and the same set amiddest greene medowes that before time were fish-pooles But these Castles with others which I am scarce able to number and reckon up for the most part of them are now ruinate not by the fury of warre but now at length conquered even with secure peace and processe of time Now crossing over Severne unto that part of the shire on this side the River which I said did properly belong to the ancient CORNAVII This againe is divided after a sort into two parts by the river Terne running from the North Southward so called for that it issueth out of a very large Poole in Stafford-shire such as they of the North parts call Tearnes In the hither part of these twaine which lyeth East neere to the place where Terne dischargeth his waters into Severn stood the ancient URICONIUM for so Antonine the Emperor termeth it which Ptolomee calleth VIROCONIUM Ninnius Caer Vruach the old English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 wee Wreckceter and Wroxcester This was the chiefe City of the CORNAVII built as it seemeth by the Romans what time as they fortified this banke of Severn in this place where the river is full of fourds as it is not elsewhere lower toward the mouth thereof But this being sore shaken in the Saxons warre fell to utter decay in the Danish broiles and now it is a very small country Towne of poore Husbandmen and presenteth often times to those that aire the ground Roman Coines to testifie in some sort the antiquity thereof Besides them I saw nothing of antiquity but in one place some few parcels of broken walles which the common people call The old worke of Wroxceter This Wall was built of rough stone distinguished outwardly with seven rowes of British brickes in equall distance and brought up with arched worke inwardly I conjecture by the uneven ground by the Rampires and the rubbish of the wall heere and there on either side that the Castle stood in that very place where these ruines remaine But where the plot of the City lay and that was of a great compasse the Soile is more blackish than elsewhere and plentifully yeeldeth the best barley in all this quarter Beneath this City that Port-way of those Romans knowne by the name of Watling street went as I have heard say directly albeit the ridge thereof now appeareth not either through a fourd or over a Bridge the foundations whereof were of late a little higher discovered when they did set a Weare in the River unto the Strattons that is to say Townes upon the Streete whereof I spake even now The ancient name of this decaied URICONIUM sheweth it selfe very apparently in an hill loftily mounting neere thereunto called Wreken hill some Writers terme it Gilberts hill from the top whereof which lyeth in a plaine pleasant levell there is a very delightfull prospect into the Country beneath on every side This Hill runneth out in length a good space as it were attired on the sides with faire spread trees But under it where Severn rolleth downe
with his streame at Buldewas commonly Bildas there flourished a faire Abbay the Sepulture in times past of the noble Family of the Burnels Patrons thereof Higher into the Country there is a Mansion or Baiting Towne named Watling street of the situation upon the foresaid Rode way or street And hard by it are seene the Reliques of Castle Dalaley which after that Richard Earle of Arundell was attainted King Richard the Second by authority of the Parliament annexed to the Principality of Chester which hee had then erected And not farre from the foote of the foresaid Wreken in an hollow Valley by that high street before mentioned Oken-yate a little Village well knowne for the plentifull delfe there of pit-cole lieth so beneath and just at the same distance as Antonine placeth VSOCONA both from URICONIUM and also from PENNOCRUCIUM that no man need to doubt but that this Oken-yate was that USOCONA Neither doth the name it selfe gainesay it for this word Ys which in the British tongue signifieth Lowe may seeme added for to note the low situation thereof On the other side beneath this Hill appeareth Charleton Castle in ancient times belonging to the Charletons Lords of Powis and more Eastward next of all unto Staffordshire Tong-Castle called in old time Toang which the Vernons not long since repaired as also the College within the Towne which the Pembridges as I have read first founded Neither have the Inhabitants any thing heere more worth shewing than a Bell for the bignesse thereof very famous in all those parts adjoyning Hard to this lieth Albrighton which in the Raigne of King Edward the First was the seat of Sir Raulph de Pichford but now of the Talbotts branched from the Family of the Earles of Shrewesbury But above Tong was Lilleshul Abbay in a woodland Country founded by the family of Beaumeis whose heire was marryed into the house of De La Zouch But seeing there is little left but ruines I will leave it and proceed forward Beyond the river Terne on the brinke thereof standeth Draiton where in the civill warres between the houses of Lancaster and Yorke a field was fought that cost many a Gentleman of Cheshire his life For they although the battaile was given up almost on even hand when they could not agree among themselves but tooke part with both sides were slaine by heapes and numbers on either side Beneath this Draiton and nere enough to Terne lieth Hodnet wherein dwelt sometimes Gentlemen of the same name from whom hereditarily it is come by the Ludlows unto the Vernons It was held in times past of the Honour of Mont-Gomery by service to bee Seneschall or Steward of the same Honour After this Terne having passed haâ—d by certaine little rurall Townes taketh in unto him the Riveret Roden and when hee hath gone a few miles further neere unto Uriconium of which I spake even now falleth into the Severn Upon this Roden whiles hee is but new come from his spring head standeth Wem where are to be seene the tokens of a Castle long since begun there to be built This was the Barony after the first entry of the Normans of William Pantulph from whose Posterity it came at length to the Butlers and from them by the Ferrars of Ousley and the Barons of Greystock unto the Barons D'acre of Gillesland Within a little of this upon an high hill well wooded or upon a cliffe rather which sometime was called Radcliffe stood a Castle mounted aloft called of the reddish stone Red-Castle and in the Normans language Castle Rous the seat in old time of the Audleies through the liberall bounty of Lady Maude Le Strange But now there remaineth no more but desolate walles which yet make a faire shew Scarce a mile from hence lyeth all along the dead carcasse as it were of a small City now well neere consumed But the peeces of Romane money and those brickes which the Romans used in building there found doe testifie the antiquity and founders thereof The neighbour Inhabitants use to call it Bery as one would say Burgh and they report that it was a most famous place in King Arthurs daies as the common sort ascribe whatsoever is ancient and strange to King Arthurs glory Then upon the same River Morton Corbet anciently an house of the Family of Turet afterward a Castle of the Corbets sheweth it selfe where within our remembrance Robert Corbet carryed away with the affectionate delight of Architecture began to build in a barraine place a most gorgeous and stately house after the Italians modell But death prevented him so that he left the new worke unfinished and the old Castle defaced These Corbets are of ancient Nobility in this Shire and held Lordships by service of Roger Montgomery Earle of this County about the comming in of the Normans for Roger the son of Corbet held Huelebec Hundeslit Acton Fern-leg c. Robert the sonne of Corbet held land in Ulestanton Rotlinghop Branten and Udecot And in later ages this family farre and fairely propagated received encrease both of revenew and great alliance by the marriage of an heire of Hopton More Southward standeth Arcoll the habitation of the Newports knights of great worship descended from the Barons Grey of Codnor and the Lords of Mothwy and neere unto it is Hagmond Abbay which the Lords Fitz Alanes if they did not found yet they most especially endowed Not much lower upon Severn standeth most pleasantly the famousest City for so it was called in Domesday booke of this Shire risen by the ruine of Old Uriconium which wee at this day call Shrewsbury and Shrowsbury having mollified the name whereas our Ancestours called it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 for that it was anciently a very thicket of shrobs upon an hill In which sense both the Greekes tearmed their Bessa and our Welsh Britans named this also Pengwerne that is The high plot planted with Alders and a Palace so named continued heere a long time But whence it is that it is called now in the British tongue Ymwithig and by the Normans Scropesbery Sloppesbery and Salop and in the Latin tongue Salopia I am altogether ignorant unlesse it should bee the ancient name Scobbes-beng diversely distorted and dis-jointed Yet some skilfull in the British tongue thinke verily it is called Ymwithig as one would say Placentia or Plaisance of a British word Mewithau and that their Poets the Bardi so named it because of all others it best pleased the Princes of Wales in times past It is seated upon an Hill of a reddish earth and Severn having two very faire Bridges upon it gathering himselfe in manner round in forme of a circle so compasseth it that were it not for a small banke of firme land it might goe for an Island And thence it is that Leland the Antiquarian Poet wrote thus Edita Penguerni latè fastigia splendent Urbs sita lunatâ— veluti
in with Shropp shire on the Eastside with Stafford-shire and Darby-shire on the North with Lancashire and on the West with Denbigh and Flint-shires Toward the North-West it runneth farre into the sea with a long cantle or Promontory which being enclosed within two Creekes receiveth the Ocean on both sides entring into the land into which two Creekes also all the Rivers of this Shire doe discharge themselves Into that Creeke which is more Westerne passeth the River Dee that divideth the country from Denbigh-shire into that on the Eastside both Wever which runneth through the mids of the Shire and Mersey also that parteth it from Lancashire issue themselves Neither see I any better way of describing this County than if I follow the very tracts of these Rivers For all the places of greatest note are situate by the sides of them But before I enter into any particular description I will first propose out of Lucian the Monke thus much in commendation of Ches-shire for he is a rare Author and lived a little after the Conquest If any man be desirous saith hee either fully or as neere as may bee to treat of the Inhabitants according to the disposition of their manners in respect of others that live in sundry places of the Realme They are found to bee partly different from the rest of English partly better and partly equall unto them But they seeme especially the best point to bee considered in generall triall of manners in feasting freindly at meat cheerefull in giving entertaiment liberall soone angry but not much and as soone pacified lavish in words impatient of servitude mercifull to the afflicted compassionate toward the poore kinde to their kinred spary of their labour void of dissimulation and doublenesse of heart nothing greedy in eating farre from dangerous practises yet by a certaine licentious liberty bold in borowing many times other mens goods They abound in Woods and pastures they are rich in flesh and Cattaile confining on the one side upon the Welsh Britans and by a long entercourse and transfusion of their manners for the most part like unto them This also is to be considered in what sort the Country of Chester enclosed upon one side with the limite of the Wood Lime by a certaine distinct priviledge from all other Englishmen is free and by the Indulgences of Kings and Excellencies of Earles hath beene wont in Assemblies of the people to attend upon the Earles sword rather than the Kings Crowne and within their precinct to heare and determine the greatest matters with more liberty Chester it selfe is a place of receit for the Irish a neighbour to the Welsh and plentifully served with Corne by the English Finely seated with Gates anciently built approoved in hard and dangerous difficulties In regard of the River and prospect of the eye together worthy according to the name to be called a City garded with watch of holy and religious men and through the mercy of our Saviour alwaies fensed and fortified with the mercifull assistance of the Almightie The River Dee called in Latin Deva in British Dyffyr-dwy that is the water of Dwy breeding very great plenty of Salmons ariseth out of two fountaines in Wales and thereof men thinke it tooke the name for Dwy in their tongue signifieth Two Yet others observing also the signification of the word interpret it Black-water others againe Gods water or Divine water But although Ausonius noteth that a Spring hallowed to the Gods was named Diuvona in the ancient Gaules tongue which was all one with the British and in old time all Rivers were reputed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Descending from Heaven yea and our Britans yeelded divine honour unto Rivers as Gildas writeth yet I see not why they should attribute Divinity to this River Dwy above all others The Thessalians as we reade gave to the River Paeneus divine honour for the pleasantnesse thereof the Scythians to Danubius for the largenesse the Germans to Rhene because it was counted a judge in the question of true and undefiled wedlocke But wherefore they should impose a divine name upon this River I see no reason as I said before unlesse peradventure because now and then it changed the Chanell and thereby foreshewed a sure token of Victory to the Inhabitants upon it when they were in hostility one with another according as it inclined more to this side or to that after it had left the Chanell for thus hath Giraldus Cambrensis recorded who in some sort beleeved it Or else because they observed that contrary to the wonted manner of other Rivers upon the fall of much raine it arose but little and so often as the South winde beateth long upon it it swelleth and extraordinarily overfloweth the grounds adjoyning Peradventure also the Christian Britans thought the water of this River to be holy For it is written that when they stood ready to joyne battaile with the English Saxons and had kissed the earth they dranke also very devoutly of this River in memoriall of Christs most sacred and pretious bloud But d ee which seemeth to rush rather than to run out of Wales no sooner is entred into Cheshire but he passeth more mildely with a slower streame by BONIUM in some written copies of Antonine BOVIUM a City that had been of great name in that age and afterward a famous Monastery Of the Chore or quire whereof it was called by the Britans Bon-chor and Banchor of the ancient English 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and Banchor and among many good and godly men it fostered and brought up as some write that most wicked Arch-heretick Pelagius who injuriously derogating from the grace of God troubled a long time the West Church with his pestiferous Doctrine Prosper Aquitanus in this Verse of his termeth him the British Adder or Land-snake Pestifero vomuit coluber sermone Britannus A British Snake with venemous tongue Hath vomited his poison strong Neither have I made mention of him for any other reason but because it is behoveable to each one to know vices and venims In this Monastery as saith Bede There was such a number of Monkes that being divided into seven portions which had every of them a severall head and Ruler over them yet every one of these had no fewer than three hundred men who were wont to live all of their handy labour Of whom Edilfred King of the Nordan-humbers slew 12. hundred because they had implored in their prayers Christs assistance for the Christian Britans against the English-Saxons then infidels The profession of this Monasticall life that I may digresse a little began when Pagan Tyrans enraged against Christians pursued them with bloudy persecutions For then good devout men that they might serve God in more safety and security withdrew themselves into the vast Wildernesses of Aegypt and not as the Painims are wont with open mouth to give it out for to enwrap themselves willingly in
more miseries because they would not be in misery Where they scattered themselves among Mountaines and Deserts living in caves and little cells heere and there in holy meditations At first solitary and alone whereupon in Greeke they were called Monachi that is Monkes but after they thought it better as the sociable nature of mankinde required to meete together at certaine times to serve God and at length they beganne to cohabite and live together for mutuall comfort rather than like wilde beasts to walke up and downe in the Deserts Their profession was to pray and by the labour of their owne hands to get living for themselves and maintenance for the poore and withall they vowed poverty obedience and chastity Athanasius first brought this kinde of Monkes consisting of Laymen into the West Church Whereunto after that Saint Austen in Africke Saint Martin in France and Congell in Britaine and Ireland had adjoyned the function of Regular Clergy It is incredible how farre and wide they spred how many and how great Coenobies were built for them so called of their communion of life as also Monasteries for that they kept still a certaine shew of solitary living and in those daies none were more sacred and holy than they and accordingly they were reputed considering how by their praiers to God by their example Doctrine labour and industry they did exceeding much good not onely to themselves but also to all mankinde But as the world grew worse and worse so those their holy manners as one said rebus cessere secundis that is Gave backward in time of prosperity Now let mee returne unto my matter craving your pardon for this short digression After these dayes this Monastery fell utterly to ruine for in the time of William of Malmesbury who lived presently after the Normans comming in There remained heere as hee saith so many tokens of Antiquity so many walles of Churches halfe downe so many windings and turnings of Gates such heapes of rubbish and rammell as hardly a man should have found elsewhere But now is left to bee seene scarcely the face and outward shew of a dead City or Monastery and the names only remaine of two Gates Port Hoghan and Port Cleis which stand a mile asunder betweene which are found very oft peeces of the Romans money But that I may tell you of one thing this BoNIUM or Banchor is not reckoned within this County but in Flintshire a peece whereof severed as it were from the rest lyeth heere betweene Cheshire and Shropp-shire d ee where he entreth first into this shire seeth above him not farre from his banke Malpas upon an high hill which had in it a Castle and for the bad narrow and combrous way was termed in Latin Mala platea that is Ilstreet and thence also tooke this later name Mal-pas from the Normans whereas in times past the Englishmen almost in the very same sense called it Depenbach The Barony hereof Hugh Earle of Chester gave to Robert Fitz-Hugh In the Raigne of Henry the Second William Patricke the sonne of William Patricke held the same of whose line Robert Patricke standing outlawed lost it After some few yeeres David of Mal-pas by a Writ of Recognisance gat the one halfe of that Towne which was Gilbert Clerkes But a great part of this Barony went afterwards hereditarily to those Suttons that are Barons of Dudley and a part also thereof came to Urian Sampier And from Philip a younger sonne of David of Mal-pas is descended that worshipfull family of the Egertons who tooke this name from the place of their habitation like as from other places diverse Gentlemen of this Race received their sirnames Cotgrave Overton Codington and Golborn As touching the name of this place give mee leave before I depart hence in this serious worke to insert a prety jest out of Giraldus Cambrensis It hapned saith hee in our dates that a certain Jew travailing towards Shrewsbury with the Archdeacon of this place whose sirname was Peche that is Sinne and a Deane named Devill when he heard by chance the Archdeacon telling That his Archdeaconry beganne at a place called Il-street and reached as farre as to Mal-pas toward Chester Hee considering and understanding withall as well the Archdeacons sirname as the Deanes came out with this pleasant and merry conceit Would it not bee a wonder quoth hee and my fortune very good if ever I get safe againe out of this country where Sinne is the Archdeacon and the Devill the Deane where the entry into the Archdeaconry is Il-street and the going forth of it Mal-pas From hence Dee runneth downe amaine by Shoclach where sometime was a Castle by Aldford belonging in times past to the Arderns by Poulefourd where in the Reigne of Henry the Third Sir Raulph of Ormesby had his Castle and by Eaton the seat of the famous Family of Gros-venour that is The great Hunter whose posterity now corruptly goe under the name of Gravenor Somewhat higher upon the same River neere unto Dee-mouth which Ptolomee calleth SETEIA for Deia standeth the noble City which the said Ptolomee named DEUNANA Antonine the Emperour DEVA of the River the Britans Caer-Legion Caer-Leon Vaur Caer-Leon ar Dufyr Dwy and by way of excellency Caer like as our Ancestours the English Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the Legions Campe and wee more short West-Chester of the West situation and simply Chester according to the Verse Cestria de castris nomen quasi Castria sumpsit Chester of Castria tooke the name As if that Castria were the same For these British names without all doubt were derived from the Twentieth Legion named Victrix This Legion in the yeere that Galba the Emperour was the second time Consull together with Titus Vinius was transported over into Britaine which being out of awe and therefore dreaded of the Lieutenants as well those which had beene Consuls as Pretours had Julius Agricola appointed Lieutenant over it by Vespasian the Emperour was at length placed and seated in this City which I suppose was not built many yeeres before and set as one would say at the backe of the ORDOVICES to restraine them although there are some who avouch it to be of greater antiquity as they say than the Moone as founded forsooth by Leon-Vaur the Giant I know not how many hundred yeeres before But the very name it selfe might give the checke unto these triviall Antiquaries and withhold them from so grosse an errour For they cannot deny but that Leon-Vaur in British signifieth A great Legion Now whether it stands more with reason and equity that a City should take name of a Great Legion than of Leon a Giant let the learned judge seeing that in the part of Spaine called Tarraconensis there is a Realme now called Leon of the seventh Legion Germanica considering also that the twentieth Legion which they tearmed Britannica Valens Victrix and some falsely Valeria Victrix abode in
the long traine and consequents of things as also whatsoever throughout the world hath beene done by all persons in all places and at all times and what ever hath beene all done may also bee avoided and taken heed of Which City having foure Gates from the foure cardinall Windes on the East side hath a prospect toward India on the West toward Ireland North-Eastward the greater Norway and Southward that streight and narrow Angle which divine severity by reason of civill and home-discords hath left unto the Britans Which long since by their bitter variance have caused the name of Britaine to bee changed into the name of England Over and beside Chester hath by Gods gift a River to enrich and adorne it the same faire and fishfull hard by the City Walles and on the South side a rode and harbour for shippes comming from Gascoine Spaine and Germany which with the helpe and direction of Christ by the labour and wisedome of Merchants repaire and refresh the heart of the City with many good things that wee being comforted every way by our Gods Grace may also drinke Wine often more frankely and plenteously because those Countries enjoy the fruite of the Vineyards aboundantlie Moreover the open Sea ceaseth not to visite it every day with a Tide which according as the broad shelves and barres of sands are opened or hidden by Tides and Ebbes incessantly is wont more or lesse either to send or exchange one thing or other and by his reciprocall Flow and returnes either to bring in or to carry out somewhat From the City North-Westward there shooteth out a languet of land or Promontory of the maine land into the Sea enclosed on the one side with Dee mouth on the other side with the River Mersey wee call it Wirall the Welsh Britans for that it is an Angle tearme it Kill-gury In old time it was all forest and not inhabited as the Dwellers report but King Edward the Third disforested it Yet now beset it is with Townes on every side howbeit more beholding to the Sea than to the Soile for the land beareth small plenty on Corne the water yeeldeth great store of fish At the entry into it on the South side standeth Shotwich a Castle of the Kings upon the salt water Upon the North standeth Hooten a Mannour which in King Richard the Second his time came to the Stanleies who fetch their Pedegree from Alane Silvestre upon whom Ranulph the first of that name Earle of Chester conferred the Bailly-wick of the Forest of Wirall by delivering unto him an horne Close unto this is Poole from whence the Lords of the place that have a long time flourished tooke their name and hard by it Stanlaw as the Monkes of that place interprete it A Stony hill where John Lacy Connestable of Chester founded a little Monastery which afterward by reason of inundations was translated to Whaley in Lancashire In the utmost brinke of this Promontory lieth a small hungry barren and sandy Isle called Il-bre which had sometime a little Cell of Monkes in it More within the Country and Eastward from Wirall you meet with a famous Forest named the Forest of Delamere the Foresters whereof by hereditary succâ—ssion are the Dawns of Vtkimon descended of a worshipfull stocke from Ranulph de Kingleigh unto whom Ranulph the first Earle of Chester gave that Forestership to bee held by right of inheritance In this Forest Aedelfled the famous Mercian Lady built a little City called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is by interpretation Happy Towne which now having quite lost it selfe hath likewise lost that name and is but an heape of rubbish and rammell which they call The Chamber in the Forest. And about a mile or two from hence are to bee seene the ruines of Finborrow another Towne built by the same Lady Aedelfled Through the upper part of this Forest the River Wever runneth which ariseth out of a Poole in the South side of the Shire at Ridly the dwelling house of the worshipâ—ull Family of the Egertons who flowered out of the Barons of Melpas as I have said Neere hereunto is Bunbury contractly so called for Boniface Bury for Saint Boniface was the Patron Saint there where the Egertous built a College for Priests Over against which is Beeston which gave sirname to an ancient family and where upon a steepe rising hill Beeston Castle towereth aloft with a turretted wall of a great circuit This Castle the last Ranulph Earle of Chester built whereof Leland our Countriman being rapt both with a Poeticall and Propheticall fury writeth thus Assyrio rediens victor Ranulphus ab orbe Hoc posuit Castrum terrorem gentibus olim Vicâ—uis patriaeque suae memorabile vallum Nunc licet indignas patiatur fracta ruinas Tempus erit quando rursus caput exeret altum Vatibus antiquis si fas mihi credere vati When Ranulph from Assyria return'd with victory As well the neighbour Nations to curbe and terrifie As for to sense his owne Country this famous Fort he rais'd Whilom a stately things but now the pride thereof is raz'd And yet though at this present time it be in meane estate With crackes and breaches much defac'd and fouly ruinate The day will come when it againe the head aloft shall heave If ancient Prophets I my selfe a Prophet may beleeve But to returne to the River Wever first holdeth his course Southward not farre from Woodhay where dwelt a long time that family of the Wilburhams knights in great reputation also by Bulkeley and Cholmondley which imparted their names to worshipfull houses of knights degree not farre off on the one hand from Baddeley the habitation in times past of the ancient Family de Praerijs of the other from Cumbermer in which William Malbedeng founded a little religious house Where this River commeth to the South limit of this Shire it passeth through low places wherein as also elsâ—where the people finde oftentimes and get out of the ground trees that have lien buried as it is thought there ever since Noahs floud But afterwards watering fruitfull fields he taketh to him out of the East a riveret by which standeth Wibbenbury so called of Wibba King of the Mercians Hard to it lie Hatherton the seat in old time of the Orbetes then of the Corbetts but now of the Smithes Dodinton the possession of the Delvesies Batherton of the Griphins Shavinton of the Wodenoths who by that name may seeme to have descended from the English Saxons beside the places of other famous Families wherewith this County every where aboundeth From thence runneth Wever downe by Nant-wich not farre from Middlewich and so to Northwich These are very famous Salt-wiches five or sixe miles distant asunder where brine or salt water is drawne out of Pittes which they powre not upon wood while it burneth as the ancient Gaules and Germans were wont to doe but boyle over the
in British called Castle Hean that is The Old Castle and in English The Old Towne A poore small Village now but this new name is a good proofe for the antiquity thereof for in both tongues it soundeth as much as an Old Castle or towne Next unto this Old Towne Alterynnis lieth in manner of a River-Island insulated within waters the seat in old time of that ancient family of the Sitsilts or Cecils knights whence my right honourable Patron accomplished with all the ornaments of vertue wisdome and Nobility Sir William Cecil Baron of Burghley and Lord high Treasurer of England derived his descent From hence Munow turning Eastward for a good space separateth this Country from Monmouth-shire and at Castle Map-harald or Harold Ewias is encreased with the River Dor. This Ewias Castle that I may speake out of K. William the First his Booke was repaired by Alured of Marleberg Afterwards it pertained to one Harold a Gentleman who in a Shield argent bare a Fesse Geules betweene three Estoiles Sable for his Armes of whom it beganne to bee called Harold Ewias but Sibyll his niece in the second degree and one of the heires by her marriage transferred it to the Lords of Tregoz froÌ„ whom it came at length to the Lords of Grandison descended out of Burgundie But of them elsewhere Now the said Dor which running downe froÌ„ the North by Snodhill a Castle and the Barony sometime of Robert Chandos where is a quary of excellent marble cutteth through the midst of the Vale which of the River the Britans call Diffrin Dore but the Englishmen that they might seeme to expresse the force of that word termed it the Gilden Vale which name it may by good right and justly have for the golden wealthy and pleasant fertility thereof For the hils that compasse it in on both sides are clad with woods under the woods lie corne fields on either hand and under those fields most gay and gallant medowes then runneth in the midst between them a most cleere and crystall River on which Robert Lord of Ewias placed a faire Monastery wherein most of the Nobility and Gentry of these parts were interred Part of this shire which from this Vale declineth and bendeth Eastward is now called Irchenfeld in Domesday Booke Archenfeld which as our Historians write was layed wast with fire and sword by the Danes in the yeere 715. at what time Camalac also a Britan Bishop was carried away prisoner In this part stood Kilpeck a Castle of great name and the seat it was of the noble Family of the Kilpecks who were as some say the Champions to the Kings of England in the first age of the Normans And I my selfe also will easily assent unto them In the Raigne of Edward the First there dwelt heere Sir Robert Wallerond whose nephew Alane Plugenet lived in the honourable state of a Baron In this Archenfeld likewise as wee reade in Domesday booke certaine revenewes by an old custome were assigned to one or two Priests on this condition that they should goe in Embassages for the Kings of England into Wales and to use the words out of the same booke The men of Archenfeld whensoever the Army marcheth forward against the enemy by a custome make the Avantgard and in the returne homeward the Rereward As Munow runneth along the lower part of this shire so Wy with a bending course cutteth over the middest upon which River in the very West limit Clifford Castle standeth which William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built upon his owne West as it is in King William the Conquerours booke but Raulph de Todenay held it Afterward it seemeth to have come unto Walter the sonne of Richard Fitz Punt a Norman for he was sirnamed De Clifford and from him the right honorable family of the Earles of Cumberland doe truly deduce their descent But in the daies of King Edward the First John Giffard who married the heire of Walter L. Clifford had it in his hands Then Wy with a crooked and winding streame rolleth downe by Whitney which hath given name to a worshipfull Family and by Bradwardin Castle which gave both originall and name to that famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury who for his variety of knowledge and profound learning was in that age tearmed The Profound Doctour and so at length commeth to Hereford the head City of this Country How farre that little Region Archenfeld reached I know not but the affinity betweene these names Ereinuc Archenfeld the towne ARICONIUM of which Antonine in the description of this Tract maketh mention and Hareford or Hereford which now is the chiefe City of the Shire have by little and little induced mee to this opinion that I thinke every one of these was derived from ARICONIUM Yet doe I not thinke that Ariconium and Hereford were both one and the same but like as Basil in Germany chalenged unto it the name of Augusta Rauracorum and Baldach in Assyria the name of Babylon â—or that as one had originall from the ruines of Babylon so the other from the ruines of Augusta even so this Hariford of ours for so the common people call it derived both name and beginning in mine opinion from his neighbour old ARICONIUM which hath at this day no shape or shew at all of a Towne as having beene by report shaken to peeces with earthquake Onely it reteineth still a shadow of the name being called Kenchester and sheweth to the beholders some ruines of walles which they tearme Kenchester walles about which are often digged up foure square paving stones of Checker worke British-brickes peeces of Romane money and other such like remaines of Antiquity But Hereford her daughter which more expressly resembleth the name thereof standeth Eastward scarce three Italian miles from it seated among most pleasant medowes and as plentifull corne fields compassed almost round about with Rivers on the North side and on the West with one that hath no name on the South side with Wy thath hastneth hither out of Wales It is thought to have shewed her head first what time as the Saxons Heptarchie was in the flower and prime built as some write by King Edward the Elder neither is there as farre as I have read any memory thereof more ancient For the Britans before the name of Hereford was knowne called the place Tresawith of Beech trees and Hereford of an Old way and the Saxons themselves 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of ferns The greatest encrease if I be not deceived that it had came by Religion and by the Martyrdome of Ethelbert King of the East England Who when he wooed himselfe the daughter of Offa K. of the Mercians was villanously forlaid and murdered by the procurement of Quendred Offaes wife respecting more the countries of the East England than the honest and honorable match of her daughter which Ethelbert being registred in
now spoiling and harrying the whole Island and Vortigern had withdrawne himselfe into these parts Pascentius his sonne ruled all as Lord by the permission of Aurelius Ambrose as Ninnius writeth who in his Chapter of Mervails reporteth I wot not what wondrous thing heere of a heape of stones wherein forsooth was plainly to be seene the footing of King Arthurs hound And as for Hay which in British is called Trekethle that is The Towne in a grove of Hasell trees in the very utmost skirt of this Shire next unto Hereford-shire it standeth hard by the river Wye well knowne as it seemeth to the Romans whose coines is often digged up there and it sheweth also by the ruines that in old time it was walled But being now as it were decaied it complaineth of that most lewde Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy for his furious outrages who in wasting and spoiling all those Countries most villanously did depopulate it and set it on fire As this River Wy washeth the North side of this Shire so doth Vske a notable River likewise runne through the middest thereof which Vske springing out of the Blacke-Mountaine passeth along with a shallow streame beside Brechnock the Shire Towne standing in the very heart in manner of the Country which the Britans call Aber-Hodney because the two Rivers Hodney and Uske doe meet in that place That this Towne was inhabited in the Romans time appeareth by the Coines of Roman Emperours now and then digged up heere Bernard Newmarch who conquered this little Shire built heere a goodly great Castle which the Breoses and Bohuns repaired and in our fathers remembrance King Henry the Eighth in the Friery of the Dominicans appointed a Collegiat Church of foureteene Prebendaries which hee translated hither from Aberguilly in Caer-Marden-shire Two miles hence Eastward there spreads it selfe abroad a large Poole which the Britans call Linsavethan and Linsavathen that is A Lake of standing water Giraldus tearmeth it Clamosum that is Clamorous or Crying loud because it maketh a strange noise like thunder as often as the Yce thereon doth thaw In English we name it Brecknock-Meere Two miles it is in length and as much in bredth breeding in times past many Otters now full of Pearches Tenches and Eeles which the Fishers rowing in small pliant botes doe take Leveney a little River after it is runne into this Poole keepeth his owne hew and color still by himselfe as disdaining to be mingled therewith which the very color sheweth is thought to carry out his owne water entertained a while there by the way and no more than hee brought in with him It hath beene a currant speech of long continuance among the neighbours thereabout that where now the Meere is there was in times past a City which being swallowed up in an earthquake resigned up the place unto the waters And beside other reasons they alleage this for one that all the high waies of this shire come directly hither on every side Which if it be true what other City should a man thinke stood by the River Leveney than LOVENTIUM which Ptolomee placeth in this tract and in no place hitherto could I finde it albeit I searched diligently for it either by the name or situation or ruines remaining Marianus Scotus which I had almost forgotten seemeth to call this Lake Bricenaâ— Meere who recordeth that Edelfled the Mercian Lady in the yeere 913. entred into the land of the Britans to win by assault a Castle at Bricenau Meere and that she tooke there the King of the Britans wife prisoner Whether this Castle were Brechnock it selfe or Castle Dinas which standeth over it upon a rockey hill and which the higher it riseth the slenderer and smaller it becommeth it is not certainely knowne But that Blean Laveney Castle hard by was the chiefe place of the Barony that Petre Fitz Herbert the sonne of Herbert Lord of Dean-forest by Lucy the daughter of Miles Earle of Hereford held appeareth evidently upon Record In the Raigne of King William Rufus Bernard Newmarch the Norman a man both hardy and politique withall having levied a great Army of Englishmen and Normans together was the first that entred into this territory by force and armes won it and wrested it out of the Welshmens hands by bloudy encounters raised fortresses heere for his fellow souldiers among which the chiefe were the Aubreeis Gunters Haverds Waldbeofes and Prichards allotted lands and lordships and that hee might set sure footing and establish his seat among the Welsh who repined maliciously at him he tooke to wife Nesta the daughter of Gruffin who being a woman of a shamelesse and revengefull spirit both bereft her selfe of her owne good name and also defeated her sonne of his inheritance For when Mahel the said Bernards onely sonne did shake up in som hard and sharpe termes a young Gentleman with whom she used more familiarly than was beseeming shee as the Poet saith iram atque animos à crimine sâ—mens growing angry and stomackfull upon this imputation tooke her corporall oath before King Henry the Second and protested that her sonne Mahel was begotten in adultery and not by Bernard her Husband whereupon Mahel being disinherited Sibyl his sister entred upon that faire Inheritance and with the same enriched her Husband Miles Earle of Hereford But after that five sonnes of Miles died without issue this Brechnock-shire in the partition of the inheritance fell to Bertha his daughter who by Philip de Breos had a sonne William de Breos Lord of Brechnock upon whom the seditious spirit and shrewd tongue of his wife drew a world of calamities For when shee had with her intemperate and unbridled language contumeliously abused King John the King thereupon because her Husband William was very deepely indebted unto him fell to bee quicke and rigorous in demanding the debt But he not able to make payment after he had shifted it off many times and by breaking day still made default in the end mortgaged unto the King three of his Castles namely Hay Brecknock and Radnor and put them into his hands But soone after levying certaine forces such as he could muster up in haste upon a suddaine surprised them slew the Garison Souldiers and wrested the said peeces perforce from them burnt the Towne of Lemster and thus killing slaying and driving away booties he made foule worke and havocke every way with all such outrages as Rebels doe commonly commit But when the King pursued him hee conveyed himselfe and all that he had into Ireland complotted and combined with the Kings enemies there yet under a colour as if hee would make submission hee came unto the King upon protection and assurance given of safety when he was upon his returne into Ireland And notwithstanding many goodly promises of the contrary he raised new stirres and troubles eftsoones in Wales But forced in the end to leave his native Country he died a banished man
Towne hath flourished and beene of name in regard of their priviledges and immunities granted unto them by the Family of Lancaster But for no one thing it is so much renowned as for this that it was the birth place of King Henry the Fifth that Triumpher over France and the second ornament of English Nation That Henry I say who by force of armes and military prowesse maugre the French conquered France and brought Charles the Sixth King of France to that extremity that after a sort he surrendred up his Crowne unto him In regard of whose successe and fortunate exploits in Warre John Seward a Poet in those dayes not of the lowest ranke in a joily lofty verse thus speaketh to the English Ite per extremum Tanain pigrósque Triones Ite per arentem Lybiam superate calores Solis arcanos Nili deprendite fontes Hercâ—leum finem Bacchi transcurrite metas Angli juris erit quicquid complectitur orbis Anglis rubra dabunt pretiosas aequora conchas Indus ebur ramos Panchaia vellera Seres Dum viget Henricus dum noster vivit Achilles Est etenim laudes longè transgressus avitas Passe on to Tanais farre remote to frozen Northren Coast Through Libye dry beyond the line where Sunnes heat parcheth most On forth and finde where all the springs of Nilus hidden lie Those pillers fixt by Hercules and bounds that mount on hie Surpasse the Limit-markes also which father Bacchus pight For why what all the earth containes is under Englands right To English shall the Red Sea yeeld the pretious pearely wilke Indy yvory sweet-frank-incense Panchaea Seres silke Whiles Henry lives that Champion Achilles-like of ours For he the praises farre surmounts of his Progenitours Monmouth glorieth also that Geffrey Ap Arthur or Arthurius Bishop of Asaph the compiler of the British History was borne and bred there a man to say truth well skilled in antiquities but as it seemeth not of antique credite so many toies and tales hee every where enterlaceth out of his owne braine as he was charged while hee lived in so much as now hee is ranged among those Writers whom the Roman Church hath censured to be forbidden From hence Wy with many windings and turnings runneth downe Southward yeelding very great plenty of delicate Salmons from September to April And is at this day the bound betweene Glocester-shire and Monmouth-shire in times past betweene the Welsh and Englishmen according to this Verse of Nechams making Inde vagos vaga Cambrenses hinc respicit Anglos By Wales on this side runneth Wy And of the other England he doth eye Who when he is come almost unto his mouth runneth by Chepstow that is if one interprete it after the Saxons tongue a Mercat The Britans call it Castle-went A famous Towne this is and of good resort situate upon the side of an Hill rising from the very River fortified round about with a Wall of a large circuite which includes within it both fields and orchyards It hath a very spacious Castle situate over the River and just against it stood a Priory the better part whereof being pulled downe the rest is conuerted into a Parish Church As for the Bridge that standeth over Wy it is of timber and very high built because the River at every tide riseth to a great heigth The Lords hereof were the Earles of Pembroch out of the Family of Clare who of Strighull Castle their seat a little way off were commonly called Earles of Strighull and of Pembrock The last of whom named Richard a man of an invincible courage and having wonderfull strong armes and long withall sirnamed Strongbow because hee shot in a bow of exceeding great bent and did nothing but with strong arme was the first that by his valour made way for the English into Ireland By a daughter of his it came to the Bigots c. but now it belongeth to the Earles of Worcester This Towne is not very ancient to speake of For many there bee that constantly affirme and not without good reason that not many ages agoe it had his beginning from VENTA a very ancient City that in the daies of Antonine the Emperor flourished about foure miles hence Westward and was named VENTA SILURUM as one would say the principall City of the Silures Which name neither hostile fury nor length of time hath as yet discontinued for it is called even at this day Caer went that is The City Went. But as for the City it selfe either time or hostility hath so carryed it away that now were it not onely for the ruinate walles the checker worke pavements and peeces of Roman money it would not appeare there was such a City It tooke up in compasse above a mile on the South side a great part of the Wall standeth and there remaine little better than the rubbish of three Bulwarks And yet of how great account it was in ancient times wee may gather if it were but by this that before the name of Monmouth once heard of all this whole Country was of it called Guent Went-set and Wents-land Moreover as wee reade in the life of Tathaius a British Saint it was an Academy that is to say a place dedicated to the study of good letters which the said Tathaie whom King Caradock the sonne of Inirius procured to come thither out of the desert wildernesse governed with great commendation and there founded a Church Five miles from hence Westward is seated Strighull Castle at the foote of the mountaines we call it at this day Strugle the Normans named it Estrighill which as wee reade in King William the First his Domesday booke William Fitz Osborn Earle of Hereford built and afterwards it became the seat of the Earles of Pembrock out of the house of Clare Whereupon they were usually called Earles of Strighull as I even now intimated Beneath these places upon the Severn sea nere unto Wy-mouth standeth Portskeweth which Marianus nameth Potescith who hath recorded that Harald in the yeere 1065. erected a Fort there against the Welshmen which they streightwaies under the conduct of Caradock overthrew And adjoyning to it is Sudbrok the Church wherof called Trinity Chappell standeth so neere the sea that the vicinity of so tyrannous a neighbour hath spoiled it of halfe the Church-yarde as it hath done also of an old Fortification lying thereby which was compassed with a triple Ditch and three Rampiers as high as an ordinary house cast in forme of a bowe the string whereof is the sea-cliffe That this was a Romane worke the Britaine brickes and Romane coines there found are most certaine arguments among which the Reverend Father in God Francis Bishop of Landaffe by whose information I write this imparted unto me of his kindnesse one of the greatest peeces that ever I saw coined of Corinthian copper by the City of Elaia in the lesser Asia to the honour of the Emperour Severus
with this Greeke Inscription 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is THE EMPEROUR CAESAR LUCIUS SEPTIMIUS SEVERUS PERTINAX And in the Reverse an Horseman with a Trophaee erected before him but the letters not legible save under him 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Of the Elaians which kinde of great peeces the Italians call Medaglionj and were extraordinary coines not for common use but coined by the Emperours either to bee distributed by the way of Largesse in triumphes or to bee sent for tokens to men well deserving or else by free Cities to the glory and memory of good Princes What name this place anciently had is hard to be found but it seemeth to have beene the Port and landing place for Venta Silurum when as it is but two miles from it Then Throgoy a little River neere unto Caldecot entereth into the Severn Sea where we saw the wall of a Castle that belonged to the High Constables of England and was holden by the service of Constableship of England Hard by are seene Wondy and Penbow the seates in times past of the noble Family of Saint Maur now corruptly named Seimor For G. Mareshall Earle of Pembrock about the yeere of our Lord 1240. was bound for the winning of Wondy out of the Welsh mens hands to aide William Seimor From him descended Roger de Saint Maur Knight who married one of the heires of I. Beauchamp of Hach a very noble Baron who derived his Pedegree from Sibyl Heire unto William Mareshall that most puissant Earle of Pembrock from William Ferrars Earle of Darby from Hugh de Vivon and William Mallet men in times past most highly renowned The Nobility of all these and of others besides as may be evidently shewed hath met together in that right honourable personage Edward Saint Maur or Seimor now Earle of Hartford a singular favourer of vertue and good learning worthy in that behalfe to be honoured and commended to posterity Beneath this lyeth spred for many miles together a Mersh they call it the Moore which when I lately revised this worke suffered a lamentable losse For when the Severn Sea at a spring Tide in the change of the Moone what being driven backe for three dayes together with a South-West Winde and what with a very strong pirry from the sea troubling it swelled and raged so high that with surging billowes it came rolling and in-rushing amaine upon this Tract lying so low as also upon the like flats in Somerset-shire over against it that it overflowed all subverted houses and drowned a number of beasts and some people withall Where this Mersh Coast bearing out by little and little runneth forth into the sea in the very point thereof standeth Goldclyffe aloft that is as Giralaus saith A Golden Cliffe so called because the stones there of a golden colour by reverberation of the Sunne shining full upon them glitter with a wonderfull brightnesse neither can I bee easily perswaded saith hee that Nature hath given this brightnesse in vaine unto the stones and that there should bee a flower heere without fruite were there any man that would search into the Veines there and using the direction of Art enter in the inmost and secretest bowels of the Earth Neere to this place there remaine the Reliques of a Priory that acknowledge those of Chandos for their founders and Patron Passing thence by the Merish Country we came to the mouth of the River Isca which the Britans name Usk and Wijsk and some Writers terme it Osca This River as it runneth through the middest as I said before of this County floweth hard by three Townes of especiall antiquity The first in the limite of the Shire North-West Antonine the Emperour calleth GOBANIUM at the very meeting of Uske and Geveny whereof it had the name and even at this day keeping the ancient name as it were safe and sound is tearmed Aber-Gevenny and short Aber-genny which signifieth the confluents of Gevenny or Gobanny Fortified it is with Wals and a Castle which as saith Giraldus of all the Castles in Wales hath beene most defamed and stained with the foule note of treason First by William Earle Miles his sonne afterwards by William Breos for both of them after they had trained thither under a pretense of friendship certain of the Nobles and chiefe Gentlemen of Wales with promise of safe conduct villanously slew them But they escaped not the just judgement and vengeance of God For William Breos after he had beene stripped of all his goods and lost his wife and some of his children who were famished to death died in banishment the other William being brained with a stone whiles Breulais Castle was on fire suffered in the end due punishment for his wicked deserts The first Lord to my knowledge of Aber Gevenny was one Sir Hameline Balun who made Brien of Wallingford or Brient de L'isle called also the Fitz-Count his heire He having built heere a Lazarhouse for his two sonnes that were Lepres ordained Walter the sonne of Miles Earle of Hereford heire of the greatest part of his inheritance After him succeeded his brother Henry slaine by the Welshmen who seized upon his lands which the Kings Lieutenants and Captaines could not defend without great perill and danger By a sister of this Henry it descended to the Breoses and from them in right of marriage by the Cantelowes to the Hastings which Hastings being Earles of Pembrock enjoyed it for divers descents and John Hastings having then no childe borne devised both it and the Earledome of Pembrock as much as in him lay to his cosin Sir William Beauchamp conditionally that he should beare his Armes And when the last Hastings ended his life issuelesse Reginald Lord Grey of Ruthin being found his Heire passed over the Barony of Aber-gevenny to the said William Beauchamp who was summoned afterward to Parliament by the name of W. Beauchamp de Abergevenny Hee entailed the said Barony reserving an estate to himselfe and his wife and to the lawfull issue male of their bodies and for default of such issue to his brother Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwick and his heires males This William Beauchamp Lord of Abergevenny had a sonne named Richard who for his martiall valour was created Earle of Worcester and slaine in the French warres leaving one onely daughter whom Sir Edward Nevill tooke to wife Since which time the Nevils have enjoyed the honorable title of the Barons of Abergevenny howbeit the Castle was by vertue of the entaile aforesaid detained from them a long time The fourth Baron of this house dying in our remembrance left one onely daughter Mary married to Sir Thomas Fane Knight betwixt whom being the heire generall and Edward Nevill the next heire male unto whom by a will and the same ratified by authority of the Parliament the Castle of Abergevenny and the greatest part
goeth on forward to Shropp-shire That MEDIOLANUM a Towne of the Ordovices which both Antonine the Emperour and Ptolomee speake of stood in this Shire I am in a manner perswaded upon probability The footings whereof I have sought after with all diligence but little or nothing have I found of it For time consumeth the very carcasses even of Cities Yet if we may ground any conjecture upon the situation seeing the Townes which Antonine placeth on either side be so well knowne to wit BONIUM now Bangor by Dee on the one side and RUTUNIUM now Rowton Castle on the other side for he setteth it twelve Italian miles distant from this and from the other twenty The lines of Position if I may so tearme them or of the distance rather doe cut one another crosse betweene Matrafall and Lan-vethlin which are scarce three miles asunder and shew as it were demonstratively the site of our Mediolanum For this cannot chuse but bee an infallible way to finde out the situation of a third place by two others that are knowne when as there are neither hils interposed nor any troublous turnings of the wayes As for this Matrafall which standeth five miles Westward from Severn although it bee now but a bare name was sometime the regall seat of the Princes of Powis which may bee an argument of the antiquity thereof and the same much spoken of by Writers who record that after the Princes had once forsaken it Robert Vipont an Englishman built a Castle But Lan-vethlin that is Vethlius Church being a little Mercate Towne although it be somewhat farther off from the crosse-meeting of the said lines yet commeth it farre neerer in resemblance of name to Mediolanum For of Methlin by the propriety of the British tongue is made Vethlin like as of Caer-Merden is come Caer Verden and of Ar-mon Arvon Neither doth Methlin more jarre and disagree in sound from Mediolanum than either Millano in Italie Le Million in Xantoigne or Methlen in the Lowcountries which Cities no man doubteth were all in times past knowne by the name of Mediolanum Which of these conjectures commeth neerer to the truth judge you for me it is enough to give my guesse If I should say that either Duke Medus or Prince Olanus built this Mediolanum of ours and those Cities of the same name in Gaule or that whiles they were a building Sus mediatim Lanata that is That a Sow halfe fleeced with wooll was digged up might I not be thought thinke you to catch at Clouds and fish for Nifles Yet notwithstanding the Italians write as much of their Mediolanum But seeing that most true it is that these Cities were built by nations of the same language and that the Gaules and Britans spake all one language I have prooved already it is probable enough that for one and the same cause they had also one and the same denomination Howbeit this our Mediolanum in nothing so farre as I know agreeth with that of Italie unlesse it be that both of them are seated upon a plaine betweene two riverets and a learned Italian derived the name of their Mediolanum hence because it is a Citie standing in the middest betweene Lanas that is little rivers according to his owne interpretation But this may seeme overmuch of MEDIOLANUM which I have sought heere and about Alcester not farre off This Countie hath adorned no Earle with the name title and Honour thereof untill of late our Soveraigne King James created Philip Herbert second Sonne of Henry Earle of Penbroke by Mary Sidney for the singular love and affectionate favour toward him and for the great hope that he conceived of his vertues both Baron Herbert of Shurland and also Earle of Montgomery upon one and the same day at Greenwich in the yeere 1605. But the Princes of Powis descended from the third Sonne of Rotherike the great held this shire with others in a perpetuall line of succession although Roger and Hugh of Montgomery had encroched upon some part thereof untill the daies of King Edward the Second For then Oen ap Gruffin ap Guenwinwyn the last Lord of Powis of the British bloud for the name of Prince had long before been worne out of use left one onely daughter named Hawise whom Sir Iohn Charleton an English man the Kings Valect married and in right of his wife was by King Edward the Second made Lord of Powise who as I have seene in very many places gaue for his Armes a Lion Geules Rampant in a shield Or which he received from his wifes Progenitours Of his posterity there were foure males that bare this Honorable title untill that in Edward the succession of males had an end for he the said Edward begat of Aeleonor the daughter and one of the heires of Thomas Holland Earle of Kent Iane Wife to Sir Iohn Grey Knight and Joice married unto Iohn Lord Tiptoft from whom the Barons of Dudley and others derive their descent The said Sir Iohn Grey for his martiall prowesse and by the bountifull fauour of King Henry the Fifth received the Earledome of Tanquervill in Normandie to have unto him and his heires males by delivering one Bassinet at the Castle of Roan every yeere on Saint Georges day This John had a sonne named Henrie Lord of Powis in whose race the title of Powis with the Honour thereof continued untill Edward Grey died well neere in our time leaving no issue lawfully begotten This Shire hath Parishes 47. MERIONITH Comitatus olim pars ORDOVICVM MERIONETH-SHIRE FFrom the backeside of Montgomery-shire MERIONETH-SHIRE in British Sire-Verioneth in Latine Mervinia and as Giraldus calleth it Terra filiorum Canaeni that is Canaens sonnes Land reacheth to that crooked Bay I spake of and to the maine Sea which on the West side beateth so sore upon it that it is verily thought to have carryed away by violence some part thereof Southward for certaine miles together it is severed from Cardigan-shire by the river Dovy on the North it boundeth upon Caer-narvon and Denbigh-shires As for the in-land part it so riseth with mountaines standing one by another in plumps that as Giraldus saith it is the roughest and most unpleasant Country to see to in all Wales For it hath in it mountaines of a wonderfull height yet narrow and passing sharpe at the top in manner of a needle and those verily not scattering heere and there one but standing very thicke together and so even in height that Shepheards talking together or railing one at another on the tops of them if haply they appoint the field to encounter and meet together they can hardly doe it from morning till night But let the Reader heerein relie upon Giraldus credit Great flockes of Sheepe graze all over these mountaines neither are they in danger of Wolves who were thought then to have beene ridde quite out of all England and Wales when King Eadgar imposed upon Ludwall Prince of these
part of the Shire Nature hath loftily areared it up farre and neere with Mountaines standing thicke one by another as if she would here have compacted the joynts of this Island within the bowels of the earth and made this part thereof a most sure place of refuge for the Britans in time of adversitie For there are so many roughes and Rocks so many vales full of Woods with Pooles heere and there crossing over them lying in the way betweene that no Armie nay not so much as those that are lightly appoynted can finde passage A man may truely if he please terme these Mountaines the British Alpes for besides that they are the greatest of the whole Island they are no lesse steepe also with cragged and rent Rockes on every side than the Alpes of Italie yea and all of them compasse one Mountaine round about which over-topping the rest so towreth up with his head aloft in the aire as he may seeme not to threaten the Skie but to thrust his head up into Heaven And yet harbour they the Snow for all the yeere long they be hory with Snow or rather with an hardened crust of many Snowes felted together Whence it is that all these hilles are in British by one name termed Craig Eriry in English Snow-don which in both languages sound as much as Snowie Mountaines like as Niphates in Armenia and Imaus in Scythia tooke their names as Plinie witnesseth of Snow Neverthelesse so ranke are they with grasse that it is a very common speech among the Welsh That the Mountaines Eriry will yeeld sufficient pasture for all the Cattaile in Wales if they were put upon them together Concerning the two Meares on the toppe of these in the one of which floreth a wandring Island and in the other is found great store of Fishes but having all of them but one eye a peece I will say nothing left I might seeme to foster fables although some confident upon the authoritie of Giraldus have beleeved it for a veritie Yet certaine it is that there be in the very toppe of these Mountaines Pooles in deed and standing Waters whereupon Gervase of Tilbury in his Booke entituled Otia Imperialia writeth thus In the Land of Wales within the bounds of great Britain there be high Hilles that haue laied their foundations upon most hard Rockes and in the toppe thereof the earth is crusted over with such a coate of waterish moisture that wheresoever a man doe but lightly set his foote he shall perceive the ground to stirre the length of a stones cast from him whereupon when the enemies came the Welsh with their agility and nimblenesse lightly leaping over the boggy ground either avoide the enemies assaults or to their losse resolutely expect their forces These Mountainers John Salisbury in his Polycraticon by a new forged Latine name termed Nivicollinos that is Snow-down inhabitants of whom in King Henry the Second his daies he wrote thus The Snow-downe Britans make inrodes and being now come out of their Caves and lurking holes of the Woods enlarge their borders possesse the plaines of the Noble men and whiles themselves looke on they assault they winne and overthrow them or else keepe the same to their owne behoofe because our youth which is so daintily brought up and loves to be house-birds and to live lazie in the shade being borne onely to devoure the fruits of the earth and to fill the belly sleepes untill it be broad day light c. But come wee downe now from the Mountaines into the Champion Plaines which because we finde no where else but by the Sea side it may suffice to coast only along the shore The Promontory which I said before shooteth out toward the South-west is in Ptolomee called according to the diversitie of copies CANGANUM JANGANUM and LANGANUM Which is the truest name I know not but LANGANUM it may seeme considering that the inhabitants name it at this day Lhein which runneth forth with a narrow and even by-land having larger and more open fields than the rest of the Country and the same yeelding Barley most plenteously Two little Townes it sheweth and no more that are memorable Farther within upon the Creeke is Pullhely that is that Salt Meare or Poole more outward by the Irish Sea hat beateth upon the other side of the Bi-land is Nevin a Village having a Merket kept in it wherein the Nobility of England in the yeere of our Lord 1284. in a Triumph over the Welsh did celebrate the memory of Arthur the great as Florilegus writeth with Iustes Turnaments and festivall pompe If any other Townes flourished here then were they destroied when Hugh Earle of Chester Robert of Rudland and Guarin of Salop entring into this Country first of all the Normans so wasted this Promontory that for the space of seven whole yeeres it lay dispeopled and desolate From Nevin the shore pointed and endented with one or two elbowes lying out into the sea tendeth Northward and then turning afront North-east by a narrow sea or Frith they call it Menai it serveth the Isle Anglesey from the firme land Upon this straight or narrow sea stood SEGONTIUM a City which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of some reliques of the walles I saw neere unto a little Church built in honour of Saint Pulblicius It tooke the name of a River running by the side of it which yet at this day is called Seiont and issueth out of the Poole Lin-Peru In which there is a kinde of fish peculiar to that water and seene no where else called by the dwellers there Tor-coch of the belly that is somewhat red Now seeing that in an ancient copie of Ptolomee SETANTIORUM PORTUS is here placed which according to other copies is set farther off if I should reade in stead of it SEGONTIORUM PORTUS that is the Haven of the Segontians and say it stood upon the mouth of this River I should perhaps aime at the truth if not yet should I obtaine pardon for my conjecture of a courteous Reader This Citie Ninnius called Caer Custenith and hee that wrote the life of Gruffin the Sonne of Conan recordeth that Hugh Earle of Chester built a Castle in Hean Caer Custenith that is as the Latine Interpreter translâ—teth it in the auncient Citie of Constantine the Emperour And Matthew of Westminster writeth but let him make it good if he can that the bodie of Constantius Father to Constantine the Great was here found in the yeere of our Lord 1283. and honourably bestowed in the Church of the new Citie by the commandement of King Edward the First Who out of the ruines of this Towne at the same time raised the Citie Caer-narvon somewhat higher upon the Rivers mouth so as that on the West and North-sides it is watered therewith Which as it was called Caer-narvon because it standeth right ouer against the Island Mona for so much
doth the word import so it hath communicated that name unto the whole Country for heereupon the English men call it Caer-narvon-shire This is encompassed with a very small circuit of walles about it and in manner round but the same exceeding strong and to set it the better out sheweth a passing faire Castle which taketh up the whole West side of it The private buildings for the manner of that Countrey are sightly enough and the inhabitants for their courtesie much commended who thinke it a point of their glorie that King Edward the First founded their Citie that his Sonne King Edward the Second was heere borne and surnamed of Caer-narvon who also was of the English line the first Prince of Wales and also the Princes of Wales had heere their Chauncerie their Exchequer and their Iustice for North-Wales About seven miles hence by the same narrow Sea standeth Bangor or Banchor low seated enclosed on the South side with a Mountaine of great heighth on the North with a little hill so called A choro pulchro that is of a faire quire or as some would have it quasi Locus Chori that is as if it were the place of a quire Which being a Bishops See hath within the Diocese thereof 96. Parishes The Church was consecrated unto Daniel sometime Bishop thereof but that which now standeth is of no especiall faire building for Owen Glendoverdwy that most notorious Rebell who had purposed utterly to destroy all the Cities of Wales set it on fire for that they stood for the King of England and defaced the ancient Church which albeit Henry Deney Bishop of the same repaired about the time of King Henry the Seventh yet it scarcely recovered the former dignity Now the Towne is small but in times past so large that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur that is Great Banchor and Hugh Earle of Chester fortified it with a Castle whereof I could finde no footings at all though I sought them with all diligent inquiry But that Castle was situate upon the very entry of the said narrow Sea Over the Menay or streight hereby King Edward the First that he might transport his Army into Mona or Anglesey whereof I must treat anon in due order went about with great labour to make a bridge but all in vaine Albeit Suctonius Paulinus conveyed over his Romane Souldiers long before into Mona his Horsemen at a Fourd and the Footemen in little flat botomed boates as we reade in Tacitus From hence the shore raising it selfe with a bending ascent runneth on by Penmaen-maur that is The great stony head a very exceeding high and steepe Rocke which hanging over the Sea when it is floud affourdeth a very narrow path way for passengers having on the one side huge stones over their heads as if they were ready to fall upon them on the other side the raging Ocean lying of a wonderfull steepe depth under it But after a man hath passed over this together with Pen-maen bychan that is the lesser stony head he shall come to an open broad plaine that reacheth as farre as to the River Conwey which limiteth this Shire on the East side This River in Ptolomee after a corrupt manner of writing Greeke is called TOISOVIUS for CONOVIUS It issueth out of a Poole of the same name in the South border of the Shire and being pent in and as it were strangled runneth apace within a very narrow chanell as farre almost as to the mouth thereof breeding certaine Shell-fishes which being conceived of an Heavenly deaw bring forth Pearles and there giveth he name unto the Towne CONOVIUM which Antonine mentioneth And although it now lie all along and that name there be utterly extinct yet by a new name it doth covertly implie the antiquity For a very small and poore village standing among the rubbish thereof is called Caer hean that is the ancient City Out of the spoile and ruines whereof King Edward the First built a new Towne at the very mouth of the River which thereupon they call Aber-Conwey that is the mouth of Conwey which place Hugh of Chester had before-time fortified But this New Conovium or Aber-Conwey being strongly situated and fensed both with walls and also with a very proper Castle by the Rivers side deserveth the name rather of a prety Citie than of a Towne but that it is not replenished with Inhabitants Opposite unto this Towne and yet on this side of the River which is passed by ferry and not by bridge reacheth out a huge Promontory with a bending elbow as if nature purposed to make there a road and harbour for Ships which is also counted part of this Shire and is named Gogarth wherein stood Diganwy an ancient City just over the River Conwey where it issueth into the Sea which was burnt many yeeres agoe with lightning And I am of opinion that it was the City DICTUM where under the later Emperours the Captaine over the band of the Nervians Dictenses kept their guard And for that afterwards it was called Diganwy who seeth not that the said Canwey came of Conwey and from thence the English name Ganoc For so was that Castle called which afterwards King Henry the Third built in that place to bridle the Welsh Straight after the Normans comming into this Island Gruffin ap Conan governed this Country who being not able to represse the English troupes who swarmed into Wales yeelded otherwhiles unto the tempest and at length when with his integrity and uprightnesse he had regained the favour of King Henry the First he easily also recovered his owne lands of the English and left them to his heires successively untill the time of Lhewelyn ap Gruffith who when he had provoked his owne Brethren with wrongs and the English men with inrodes was brought to this passe that hee held this hilly Country together with the Isle Anglesey of King Edward the First as Tenant in Fee and paid for it yeerely a thousand Markes Which conditions afterward when hee would not stand unto and following rather his owne and his Brothers stubborne wilfulnesse than any good hope to prevaile would needes put all once againe to the hazard of warre he was slaine and so both ended his owne life and withall the British government in Wales It hath in it Parish Churches 68. ANGLESEY Conitatus olim MONA INSULA Druidum sedes Britannice Tir Mon THE ISLE MONA or of ANGLESEY THe County of Caer-Nar-von which I last ranne through tooke name as I said erewhile of the chiefe Towne therein and the said Towne of the Isle Mona which lieth over against it and requireth as it were of right that I should treat of it in his due place which unwillingly heeretofore I confesse I referred to the out Islands whereas by right it is to be placed among the Shires This Isle called of the Romans MONA of the Britans Mon and Tir-Mon that is the
some places Barley in others Wheat but generally throughout Rye with twenty fold encrease and better and afterwards foure or five Crops together of Otes In the Confines of this Shire and Denbigh-shire where the hilles grow more flat and plaine with a softer fall and an easier descent downe into the Vale in the very gullet and entry thereof the Romanes placed a little City named VARIS which Antonine the Emperour placeth nineteene miles from CONOVIUM This without any maime of the name is called at this day Bod-Vari that is Mansion Vari and the next little hill hard by which the inhabitants thereabout commonly call Moyly Gaer that is The Mountaine of the City sheweth the footings of a City indeed that hath beene destroyed But what the name should signifie it appeareth not I for my part have beene of opinion elsewhere that Varia in the old British language signified a Passage and accordingly have interpreted these words Durnovaria and Isannaevaria The passage of a water and the passage of Isanna And for this opinion of mine maketh well the situation of VARIS in that place where onely there lyeth open an easie passage betwixt the hilles And not three miles from hence standeth Caer-wisk the name whereof although it maketh some shew of Antiquity yet found I nothing ancient there nor worth the observation Beneath this VARIS or Bodvari in the vale glideth Cluid and streightwayes Elwy a little Rivereâ— conjoyneth it selfe with it where there is a Bishops See This place the Britans call according to the River Llan-Elwy the Englishmen of Asaph the Patron thereof Saint Asaph And the Historiographers Asaphensis Neither is the Towne for any beauty it hath nor the Church for building or bravery memorable yet something would be said of it in regard of Antiquity For about the yeere of our Redemption 560. Kentigern Bishop of Glasco being fled hither out of Scotland placed heere a Bishops See and erected a Monastery having gathered together sixe hundred threescore and three in a religious brotherhood Whereof three hundred being unlearned did give themselves to husbandry and as many moe to worke and labour within the Monastery the rest to Divine Service Whom hee divided so by Covents that some of them should continually give attendance in the Church to the scervie of God But when he returned into Scotland he ordain'd Asaph a most godly and upright man Governor over this Monastery of whom it tooke the name which now it hath The Bishop of this See hath under his Jurisdiction about 128. Parishes the Ecclesiasticall Benefices whereof were wont to bee bestowed when the See was voide by the Archbishop of Canterbury without interruption untill the time of King Henry the Eighth and that by his Archiepiscopall right which now is counted a Regality For so we reade in the History of Canterbury Above this Ruthlan taking the name of the ruddy and red banke of Câ—uid on which it stands maketh a good shew with a Castle but now almost consumed by very age Lhewellin Ap Sisil Prince of Wales first built it and Robert sirnamed de Ruthland Nephew of Hugh Earle of Chester was the first that by force wonne it from the Welsh as being Captaine Lieutenant to the said Hugh who fortified it with new workes and bulwarkes Afterward as Rob. Abbat de Monte hath written King Henry the Second when hee had repaired this Castle gave it unto Hugh Beauchamp Beneath this Cluid streightwayes emptieth it selfe into the Sea And albeit the Valley at the very mouth seemeth to carry a lower levell and to lye under the Sea yet the water never overfloweth into the Vale but as it were by a naturall obstacle staâ—eth within the very brinkes of the shore not without the exceeding great admiration of Gods Providence From hence the shore tending by little and little Eastward shooteth forward first by Disart Castle so called because it was situate on the rising of a cliffe or as some would have it as it were Desert then by Basing werke which also King Henry the Second granted unto Hugh Beauchamp Beneath this wee saw the little Towne Haly-well as one would say holy well where there is that fountaine frequented by Pilgrimes for the memoriall of the Christian Virgin Winefride ravished there perforce and beheaded by a Tyranne as also for the mosse there growing of a most sweet and pleasant smell Out of which Well there gusheth forth a Brooke among stones which represent bloudy spottes upon them and it carryeth so violent a streame that presently it is able to drive a mill Over the very Well there standeth a Chappell built of stone right curiously wrought whereunto adjoyneth a little Church in a window whereof is portrayed and set out the History of the said Winefride how her head was cut off and set on againe by Saint Bennâ— Neere unto this place in the time of Giraldus who yet knew not this Well There was as himselfe writeth a rich Veine and gainefull Mine of silver where men in seeking after silver pierced and pried into the very bowels of the Earth This part of the Country because it smileth so pleasantly upon the beholders with a beautifull shew and was long since subject unto Englishmen the Welsh named Teg-Engle that is Faire England But whereas one hath tearmed it Tegenia and thought that the Igeni there planted themselves take heede I advise you that you be not overhasty to beleeve him Certes the name of the Iceni wrong put downe here deceived the good man Then upon the shore you may see Flint Castle which King Henry the Second beganne and King Edward the First finished and it gave the name unto this Shire where King Richard the Second circumvented by them who should have beene most trusty was cunningly induced to renounce the Crowne as unable for certaine defects to rule and was delivered into the hands of Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford who soone after claimed the Kingdome and Crowne being then voide by his cession as his inheritance descended from King Henry the Third and to this his devised claime the Parliament assented and hee was established in the Kingdome After Flint by the East border of the Shire neere to Chesshire standeth Hawarden commonly called Harden-Castle not farre from the shore out of which when David Lhewellins brother had led away prisoner Roger Clifford Iustice of Wales hee raised thereby a most bloudy Warre against himselfe and his people wherein the Princedome of the Welsh Nation was utterly overthrowne But this Castle anciently holden by the Seneschalship of the Earles of Chester was the seat of the Barons de Mount-hauls who grew up to a most honourable family and gave for their Armes in A Shield Azure a Lion rampant Argent and bettered their dignity and estate by marriage with Cecily one of the coheires of Hugh D'Albeney Earle of Arundell But in the end for default of male issue Robert the
with too much affectation derived our Brigantes from Spaine into Ireland and from thence into Britaine grounding upon no other conjecture but that he found the Citie Brigantia in his owne country Spaine he hath I feare me swarved from the truth For in case our Brigantes and those in Ireland had not the same name both for one cause I had rather with my friend the right learned Thomas Savil judge that as well diuers of our Brigantes as also other nations of Britaine from the first comming of the Romanes hither departed into Ireland some for desire of quietnesse and ease others that the Lordly dominion of the Romanes might not be an eye-sore unto them and others againe because they would not by their good will loose that libertie in their old age which by nature they were endowed with in their childhood But that Claudius the Emperour was the first of all the Romanes who set upon these our Brigantes and brought them under the Romane dominion Seneca in his Play sheweth by these verses Ille Britannos Ultra noti littora Ponti caerueleos Scuta Brigantes dare Romulaeis colla catenis Jussit ipsum nova Romanae jura securis Tremere Oceanum The Brigants such as seated are beyond the knowne Sea-coast And Brigants with blew painted shields he forced with his hoast To yeeld their necks in Romane chaines as captive to be led And even the Ocean this new power of Romane-ax to dred And yet I have been of this minde that they were not then conquered but committed themselves rather into the tuition and protection of the Romanes For that which he Poetically endited the Historiographers doe not mention And Tacitus recordeth how by occasion at that time of certaine discords risen among the Brigantes Ostorius who now made preparation for new warres was hindered and pulled backe which he with the execution of a few easily appeased At which time the Brigantes had Cartismandua a right noble and puissant Lady for their Queene who intercepted Caratacus and delivered him into the Romanes hands Herevpon ensued wealth of wealth and prosperitie riotous and incontinent life in so much as forsaking her Husband Venutius his bed she joyned her selfe in marriage with Vellocatus his Esquire and made him King Which foule fact was the overthrow shortly after of her house and thereby a bloudy and mortall warre was enkindled The love and affection of the Country went generally with the lawfull Husband but the Queenes untemperate lust and cruelty were peremptory in maintaining the adulterer She by craftie plots and mischievous meanes intercepteth the Brother and kinsfolke of Venutius Venutius againe for his part pricked forward with shamefull disgrace by the helpe of friends whom he procured and the rebellion withall of the Brigantes themselves brought Cartismandua into great extremities Then upon her instant unto the Romanes for aide Garisons were set Cohorts and wings oâ— foot and horse were sent which after sundry skirmishes with variable event delivered her person out of perill yet so as that the Kingdome remained to Venutius and the warre with the Romanes who were not able to subdue the Brigantes before the time of Vespasian For then Petilius Cerealis having invaded this Country fought many battailes and some of them very bloudy and either conquered or else wasted a great part of the Brigantes Whereas Tacitus writeth that this Queene of the Brigantes delivered Caracus prisoner unto Claudius the Emperor there is in that excellent author a manifest 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and the same noted a good while since by Iustus Lipsius deepely insighted in understanding old authors For neither was this Caratacus Prince of the Silures and Ordevices led in pompe at that triumph of Claudius nor yet Caratacus the Sonne of Cunobelinus for so is he called in the Romane Fasti whom Dio nameth Catacratus Of whom Aulus Plautius if not in the very same yeere yet in the next following triumphed by way of Ovation But let others sift out these matters and thereof I have already said somewhat In the Emperour Hadrians time when as Aelius Spartianus saith The Britaines could not be contained under the Romanes dominion it may seeme that these our Brigantes revoited from the Romanes and made a turbulent insurrection For had it not been so there was no cause why Iuvenall who then lived should thus write Dirue Maurorum attegias castra Brigantum Downe with the Moores sheepe cotes and folds Downe with the Brigantes forts and holds Neither afterward in the time of Antoninus Pius was their courage as it may seeme very much abated when he tooke away part of their territories from them because they had made rodes as I have said before into Genunia or Guinethia a Province confederate with the Romanes If I durst by our Critickes good leave who in these daies presuming so much of their great wits are supercriticall me thinks I could heere cleare Tacitus of a fault or two which sitteth close to him as concerning the Brigantes The one is in the twelfth Booke of his Annales where I would reade for Venutius out of the State of the Iugantes out of the State of the Brigantes which Tacitus himselfe seemeth to insinuate in the third Booke of his Histories The other in the life of Agricola The Brigantes saith he under the leading of a Woman burnt the Colonie c. Where truth would have you reade The Trinobantes For he speaketh of Queene Boadicia who had nothing to doe with the Brigantes But the Trinobantes she stirred indeede to rebellion and burnt the Colonie Camalodunum But this Country of theirs so exceeding large which the further it goeth the narrower it waxeth riseth on high in the mids with continued ridges and edges of hils as Italic is raised up with Apenninus which make a partition betweene those Counties into which it is now divided For beneath those hilles toward the East and the German Sea lieth Yorke-shire and the Bishopricke of Duresme and on the West side Lancashire Westmorland and Cumberland all which Countries in the first infancy of the English-Saxons Empire were contained within the Kingdome of the Deiri For they call these Countries the Kingdome of the Nordanhumbers and divided them in two parts Deira called in that age 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which is neerer unto us and on this side Tine and Bernicia which lying beyond Tine reached as farre as Edenborrough Frith in Scotland which parts although they had their severall Kings for a long time yet at length grew all to bee one Kingdome And that I may note this one thing by the way whereas in the life of Charles the Great it is read thus Eardulph King of the Nordanhumbers that is De-Irland being driven out of his Country unto Charles the Great c. Wee must reade ioyntly Dierland and understand the place of this Country and not of Ireland as some have misconceived EBORACENSIS Comitatus pars Occidenâ—aâ—is vulgo WEST RIDING YORKE-SHIRE THE
were erected unto them We worship saith he The heads of great Rivers and the sudden breaking forth of an huge River out of an hidden and secret place hath Altars consecrated unto it Againe All waters as Servius Honoratus saith had their severall Nymphs to take the rule and protection of them Moreover in a Wall of the Church is fastened this broken and unperfect Inscription RUM CAES. AUG ANTONINI ET VERI JOVI DILECTI CAECILIUS PRAEF COH But in the very Church it selfe whiles I sought diligently for monuments of Romane Antiquity I found nothing but the Image in stone all armed of Sir Adam Midleton who seemeth to have flourished under King Edward the First and whose posterity remaineth yet in the Country heereby at Stubbam More beneath standeth Otley a Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke but it hath nothing memorable unlesse it bee one high and hard craggy cliffe called Chevin under which it is situate For the ridge of an hill the Britans terme Chevin whence I may conjecture that that continued ridge of mountaines in France where in old time they spake the same language that Britans did was called Gevenna and Gebenna After this Wherf runneth hard by with his bankes on both sides reared up and consisting of that Limestone which maketh grounds fat and fertile where I saw Harewood Castle of good strength which by the alteration of times hath often changed his Lords Long since it belonged to the Curcies but by Alice an inheritrice it came to Warin Fitz-Gerold who had taken her to wife whose daughter Margerie and one of his heires being endowed with a very great estate of living was first married unto Baldwin de Ripariis the Earles sonne of Devon-shire who dyed before his father afterwards to Folque de Brent by the beneficiall favour of King John for his approved service in pilling polling and spoiling most cruelly But when at length Isabell de Ripariis Countesse of Devon-shire departed this life without issue This Castle fell unto Robert de L'isle the sonne of Warin as unto her cozin in bloud and one of her heires in the end by those of Aldborrough it descended to the â—ithers as I am enformed by Francis Thinn who very diligently and judiciously hath a long time hunted after Pedigree antiquities Neither is Gawthorp adjoyning hereby to be concealed in silence when as the ancient Family of Gascoignes descended out of Gascoigne in France as it seemeth hath made it famous both with their vertue and Antiquity From hence runneth Wherf hard by Wetherby a Mercate Towne of good note which hath no antiquity at all to shew but a place only beneath it they call it usually now Saint Helens Fourd where the high Roman street crossed over the river From thence he passeth downe by Tadcaster a very little towne yet I cannot but thinke as well by the distance from other places as by the nature of the soile and by the name that it was CALCARIA For it is about nine Italian miles from Yorke according as Antonine hath set CALCARIA Also the limestone which is the very soader and binder of all morter and hardly elsewhere in this tract to be found heere is digged up in great plenty and vented as farre as to Yorke and the whole Country bordering round about for use in building Considering then that the said Lime was by the Britans and Saxons in old time and is by the Northren Englishmen called after the Roman name Calc For that imperious City Rome imposed not their yoke onely but their language also upon the subdued Nations seeing also that in the Code of Theodosius those bee tearmed Calcarienses who are the burners of limestone it may not seeme absurd if the Etymology of the name be fetched from Calx that is Chalke or Lime even as Chalcis of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is brasse Ammon of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Sand Pteleon of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Elmes and Calcaria a City of Cliveland haply of Calx that is Lime tooke their names especially seeing that Bede calleth it also Calca-cester Where he reporteth that Heina the first woman in this Country that put on the Vaile and religious habite of a Nunne retyred her selfe apart to this City and therein made her abode Moreover an Hill neere to the Towne is called Kelc-bar in which there lieth couched somewhat of the ancient name Neither are there other arguments wanting to prove the antiquity thereof For to say nothing how it is situate upon a port high way there be peeces of the Roman Emperours money oftentimes digged up and the tokens of the Trenches and Bankes that compassed it about the plot also where an old Castle stood yet remaining out of the reliques whereof not many yeeres agoe was a Bridge built which when Wherf is once passed under he becommeth more still and so gently intermingleth his water with Ouse And verily a thing it is in my judgement to be wondered at That Wherf being encreased with so many waters in Summer time runneth so shallow under this Bridge that one comming hither about Midsommer when he saw it pretily and merrily versified thus Nil Tadcaster habet Musis vel carmine dignum Praeter magnificè structum sine flumine pontem Nought hath Tadcaster worth my Muse and that my verse deserv's Unlesse a faire Bridge stately built the which no river serv's But had he come in Winter time he should have seene the Bridge so great as it was scarce able to receive so much water But naturall Philosophers know full well that both Welles and rivers according to the seasons and the heat or cold without or within do decrease or encrease accordingly Whereupon in his returne he finding here durt for dust and full currant water under the Bridge recanted with these verses Quae Tadcaster erat sine flumine pulvere plena Nunc habet immensum fluvium pro pulvere lutum Somewhat higher Nid a muddy river runneth downe well beset with woods on either side out of the bottome of Craven hils first by Niderdale a vale unto which it giveth name and from thence carrieth his streame by Rippley a Mercate Towne where the Inglebeys a Family of great antiquity flourished in good reputation Afterwards with his deepe chanell hee fenseth Gnaresburg commonly called Knarsborow Castle situate upon a most ragged and rough Rocke whence also it hath the name which Serle de Burgh Unkle by the fathers side to Eustace Vescy built as the tradition holdeth Afterward it became the seate of the Estoteviles and now is counted part of the lands belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster Under it there is a well in which the waters spring not up out of the veines of the earth but distill and trickle downe dropping from the rockes hanging over it whence they call it Dropping well into which what wood soever is put
will in short space be covered over with a stony barke and turne into stone as it hath beene often observed In the Territory there by Liquirice groweth in great abundance and a yellower and softer kinde of marle is there found passing good to make the ground fertile The Keeper or chiefe Ranger of the Forest adjoyning was in times past one Gamell whose posterity of their habitation at Screven assumed the name of Screven and from them descended the Slingsbey who received this Forestership of king Edward the First and to this day live here in great and good regard Nid having passed by these places not farre from Allerton the seat of a very ancient and famous family of the Malliveries who in old Deeds and Records are called Mali Leporarij goeth on a little way and then meeting Ouse augmenteth the streame of Ouse by his confluence As for Vre he also springing out of these Westerne hilles but on the other side of the Country in North-Ricding when by this name he hath watered the North part of the Shire a little before he commeth to Rippon serveth for the limite dividing the North and West Ridings one from another This Rippon in the Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 being placed betweene Vre and Skell a rill is beholden to religious Houses for all the dignity it had and especially to a Monastery built in the primitive Church of the English-Saxons by Wilfride Archbishop of Yorke and that with such arched and embowed Vaults with such floorings and stories of stone-worke with such turnings and windings in and out of Galleries so saith William of Malmesbury that it was wonderfull Which the Danes afterward being so violent and outrageous that they spared neither God nor man raced together with the Towne Yet flourished it againe repaired by meanes of Odo Archbishop of Canterbury who being a very great master of ceremoniall mysteries translated from hence to Canterbury the Reliques of Wilfride But since the Normans arrivall it prospered most when the Castles as one saith of Monkes beganne to bee built in greater number For then both the Towne grew famous partly under the chiefe Magistrate whom they call by an old Saxon word Wakeman as one would say Watchman and partly by their industry in clothing which at this day is much diminished and the Monastery likewise under the tuition and protection of the Archbishops of Yorke beganne marveilously to reflourish Besides a very faire Church was there also built at the charitable charges of the Noblemen and Gentry dwelling thereabout and of their owne Treasurer which with three high Spire-steeples doth welcome those that come to the towne and did as it were emulate in workemanship the wealthy Abbay of Fountaines built within the sight of it by Thurstin Archbishop of Yorke On the one side of this Church wee saw a little College of â—inging men which Henry Bath Archbishop of Yorke erected on the other side a very great mount of earth called Hilshow cast up as they report by the Danes Within the Church Saint Wilfrides Needle was in our Grandfathers remembrance very famous A narrow hole this was in the Crowdes or close vaulted roome under the ground whereby womens honesty was tried For such as were chast did easily passe through but as many as had plaied false were miraculously I know not how held fast and could not creepe through The Abbay Fountaines aforesaid most pleasantly seated in a right plentifull Country and having Lead mines neere it had the originall from twelve precise Monkes of Yorke who fervently zealous to serve God in a more strict kinde of life forsooke their cloistures and addicted themselves to the ordinances of Saint Bernard For whom after they had reaped many Harvests of troubles Thurstine Archbishop of Yorke built this Abbay which was acknowledged an immediate daughter of Clarevalle and in a few yeeres became a mother to many others as Kirkstall Salley Meaux c. I have made more willingly mention of these because Saint Bernard in his Epistles so highly approved their life and discipline Not farre beneath there standeth by Vre a little Towne called Burrow bridge of the bridge that is made over the River which now is built very high and faire of stone worke but in King Edward the Second his time it seemeth to have beene of wood For wee reade that when the Nobles of England disquieted the King and troubled the State Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford in his going over it was at a chinke thereof thrust through the body about his groine by a souldier lying close under the Bridge Neere unto this Bridge Westward we saw in three divers little fields foure huge stones of Pyramidall forme but very rudely wrought set as it were in a streight and direct line The two Pyramides in the middest whereof the one was lately pulled downe by some that hoped though in vaine to finde treasure did almost touch one another the uttermore stand not farre off yet almost in equall distance from these on both sides Of these I have nothing else to say but that I am of opinion with some that they were Monuments of victory erected by the Romanes hard by the High Street that went this way For I willingly overpasse the fables of the common people who call them the Devils Bolts which they shot at ancient Cities and therewith overthrew them Yet will not I passe over this that very many and those learned men thinke they are not made of naturall stone indeed but compounded of pure sand lime vitriol whereof also they say there be certaine small graines within and some unctuous matter Of such a kinde there were in Rome cisternes so firmely compact of very strong lime and sand as Plinie writeth that they seemed to be naturall stones A little Eastward from this Bridge IS-URIUM BRIGANTUM an ancient City so called of the River Vre running by it flourished in ancient times but was rased to the very ground many ages past Neverthelesse the Village risen up neere the place giveth testimony of the Antiquity thereof for it is called Ealdburgh and Aldborrow But in that very plot of ground where the said City stood are now arable grounds and pastures so that scarce any footing thereof doth appeare Surely the very credite of Writers should have had much adoe to make us beleeve that this had beene IS-URIUM but that URE the Rivers name the Romane Coine daily digged up and the distance according to Antonines account betwixt this and Yorke warranted it For by that Vre which the Saxons afterward named Ouse because it hath entertained Ousburne a little River is gone sixteene Italian miles from hence hee runneth through the City EBORACUM or EBURACUM which Ptolomee in the second booke of his Great Construction calleth BRIGANTIUM if the said booke bee not corrupted because it was the chiefe City of the Brigantes Ninnius calleth it Caer Ebrauc the Britans Caer Effroc the Saxons 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉
Temple of Bellona by the errour of a rusticall Augur or Soothsaying Priest At which time the Tribunal or Justice Haul of this City was in this respect most happy because therein sat to minister justice that Oracle of the law Aemelius Paulus Papinianus as Forcatulus witnesseth And from this place it was for certaine that Severus and Antoninus Emperours being consulted in a case or question of Right gave forth their Imperiall constitution De rei Vindicatione An hundred yeeres or thereabout after the death of Severus Fl. Valerius Constantius sirnamed Chlorus an Emperour surpassing in all vertue and Christian piety who came hether When the Gods as the Panegyrist saith called him now to the inmost entry and doore of the earth ended his life also in this City and was deified as we may see by ancient Coines And albeit Florilegus recordeth that his Tombe was found in Wales as I have said yet men of credite have enformed me that in our fathers remembrance when Abbaies were suppressed and pulled downe in a certaine Vault or crowdes or a little Chappell under the ground wherein Constantius was supposed to have beene buried there was found a Lampe burning for Lazius writeth that in ancient time they preserved light in Sepulchres by resolving gold artificially into a liquid and fatty substance which should continue burning a long time and for many ages together This Emperor begat of his former wife Helena CONSTANTINE THE GREAT THE DELIVERER OF ROME CITY as ancient inscriptions give testimony THE FOUNDER OF PEACE AND THE REPAIRER OF THE COMMON VVEALTH Who was present in Yorke at his fathers last gaspe and forthwith proclaimed Emperour The souldiers as the Panegyricall Oratour saith regarding rather the good of the State than private affections cast the purple robe upon him whiles hee wept and put spurs to his horse to avoid the importunity of the Army attempting and requiring so instantly to make him Emperour But the happinesse of the State overcame his modestie Whence it is that the Author of the Panegyricall oration crieth out in these words O fortunate Britaine and now blessed above all lands which first sawest Constantine Emperor Hence it may be gathered in what and how great estimation Yorke was in those daies seeing the Romane Emperours Court was there held For our owne Country Writers record that this City was by Constantius adorned and graced with an Episcopall See But yet that Taâ—rinus the Martyr Bishop of Eureux sat heere and governed I will not say as others doe For Vincentius out of whom they sucked this errour would by his owne words convince me of untruth But when the Romanes were departed and had left Britaine for a prey to barbarous Nations this City sore afflicted with many calamities suffered her part also of miseries and was little or nothing better about the end of the Scottish or Saxons Warres than a poore small shadow of a great name For when Paulinus preached Christian Religion to the English Saxons in this Country it lay so desolate that there remained not so much as a Chappell in it for King Edwin to bee baptized in Who in the yeere after Christs Birth 627. built a little Oratory of wood and when as afterward he went in hand with building a greater Church of stone scarce had he laid the foundation thereof when he was prevented by death and left it to be finished by his Successour Oswald Ever since that time the Ecclesiasticall Dignity in this Church encreased and by a Pall sent unto it from Honorius the Pope became a Metropolitane City which beside twelve Bishoprickes in England exercised the power of a Primate over all the Bishops of Scotland But many yeeres since Scotland withdrew it selfe from this her Metropolitane and the Metropolitane City it selfe hath so devoured other Bishoprickes adjoyning being but little to say truth and of small account that it hath now but foure within the owne Dioecese namely the Bishoprickes of Durrham of Chester of Carlile and of Man or Sodorensis in the Isle of Man And the Archbishop Egbert who flourished about the yeere of our Salvation 740. erected at Yorke A most famous Library the Cabinet as I may so terme it these be the words of William of Malmesbury and Closet of all liberall Arts. Touching which Library Alcwin of Yorke Schoolemaster to Charles the Great first Founder of the University of Paris and the onely Honour of this City in an Epistle to the said Charles wrote thus Give mee the bookes of deeper and more exquisite scholasticall learning such as I had in mine owne Country by the good and most devout industry of the Archbishop Egbert And if it please your wisedome I will send backe some of your owne servants who may exemplifie out of them all those things that be necessary and bring the floures of Britaine into France that there may not be a Garden of learning enclosed onely within Yorke walles but that streames of Paradise may be also at Towres Then also it was that Princes bestowed many and great livings and lands upon the Church of Yorke especially Ulphus the sonne of Toral I note so much out of an old booke that there may plainly appeare a custome of our ancestour in endowing Churches with livings This Ulphus aforesaid ruled in the West part of Deira and by reason of the debate that was like to arise betweene his sonnes the elder and the younger about their Lordships and Signiories after his death forthwith hee made them all alike For without delay hee went to Yorke tooke the horne with him out of which hee was wont to drinke filled it with wine and before the Altar of God and blessed Saint Peter Prince of the Apostles kneeling upon his knees he dranke and thereby enfeoffed them in all his lands and revenewes Which horne was there kept as a monument as I have heard untill our fathers daies I might seeme to speake in derogation of the Clergy if I should report what secret heart-burnings or rather open enmities flashed out betweene the Archbishops of Yorke and of Canterbury upon worldly ambition whiles with great wast of their wealth but more losse of their credite and reputation they bickered most eagerly about the Primacy For the Church of Yorke as he writeth inferiour though it were unto that of Canterbury in riches yet being equall in dignity albeit of later time founded and advanced on high with the same power that Canterbury hath confirmed also with the like authority of Apostolicall Priviledges tooke it ill to bee subject unto that of Canterbury by vertue of a Decree of Alexander of Rome who ordained That the Church of Yorke ought to be subject unto Canterbury and in all things to obey the constitutions of the Archbishop thereof as Primate of all Britaine in such matters as appertaine to Christian Religion Concerning the Archbishops of Yorke it is no part verily of my purpose to write any thing heere although there bee very many of
this house of housen all About the same time also the Citizens fensed the City round about with new walles and many towres and bulwarkes set orderly in divers places yea and ordained very good and holsome lawes for the governement thereof King Richard the Second granted it to bee a County incorporate by it selfe and King Richard the Third beganne to repaire the Castle And that nothing might be wanting King Henry the Eighth within the memory of our fathers appointed heere a Councell not unlike to the Parliaments in France for to decide and determine the causes and controversies of these North parts according to equity and conscience which consisteth of a Lord President certaine Counsellers at the Princes pleasure a Secretary and under Officers As touching the Longitude of Yorke our Mathematicians have described it to be two and twenty Degrees and twenty five Scruples the Latitude 54. degrees and 10. scruples Hitherto have we treated of the West part of this shire and of Yorke City which is reckoned neither in the one part nor the other but enjoyeth peculiar liberties and hath jurisdiction over the Territory adjoyning on the West side Which they call the Liberty of Ansty others the Ancienty of the Antiquity but other have derived it very probably from the Dutch word Anstossen which betokeneth limits And now for a conclusion have heere what Master John Jonston of Aberden hath but a while since written in verse of Yorke Praesidet extremis Arctoae finibus orae Urbs vetus in veteri facta subinde nova Romanis Aquilis quondam Ducibúsque superba Quam post barbarica diripuere manus Pictus atrox Scotus Danus Normannus Anglus Fulmina in hanc Martis detonuere sui Post diras rerum clades tótque aspera fata Blandiùs aspirans aura serena subit LONDINUM caput est regni urbs prima Britanni EBORACUM à primâ jure secunda venit In parts remote of Northren tract there stands as soveraine A City old but yet of old eftsoones made new againe Whilom of Romane Legions and Captaines proud it was But since by forces barbarous sacked and spoil'd alasse The Picts so fierce the Scots and Danes Normans and Englishmen 'Gainst it their bolts of dreadfull war have thundred now and then Yet after sundry bitter blasts and many a cursed clap A milder gale of peacefull daies hath brought it better hap Of British Kingdome LONDON is chiefe seat and principall And unto it there goes by right Yorke City next of all Ouse now leaving Yorke being otherwhiles disquieted and troubled with that whirling encounter of contrary waters and forceable eddies which some call Higra runneth downe through Bishops Thorpe called Saint Andrewes Thorpe before that Walter Grey Archbishop of Yorke purchased it with ready money and to prevent the Kings Officers who are wont rigorously to seize upon Bishops Temporalties when the See is vacant gave it to the Deane and Chapter of Yorke with this condition that they should alwayes yeeld it to his Successours Of whom Richard Le Sicrope Archbishop of Yorke a man of a firy spirit and ready to entertaine rebellion was condemned in this very place of high Treason by King Henry the Fourth against whom he had raised an insurrection Afterward Cawood a Castle of the Archbishops standeth upon the same River which King Athelstan as I have read gave unto the Church Just against which on the other side of the River lyeth Ricall where Harald Haardread arrived with a great Fleet of Danes Then Ouse passeth hard by Selby a little Towne well peopled and of good resort where King Henry the First was borne and where his father King William the First built a faire Abbay in memory of Saint German who happily confuted that venemous Pelagian Heresie which oftentimes as the Serpent Hydra grew to an head againe in Britaine The Abbats of this Church as also of Saint Maries in Yorke were the onely Abbats in the North parts that had place in the Parliament house And so Ouse at length speedeth away to Humber leaving first Escricke a seat of the Lascelles sometimes to be remembred for that King James advanced Sir Thomas Knivet the owner thereof Lord Knivet to the honour of Baron Knivet of Escricke in the yeere 1607. And afterward passing by Drax a little Village famous long since for a Monastery founded there by Sir William Painell and whereas William of Newburgh writeth Philip of Tollevilla had a Castle most strongly fensed with Rivers Woods and Marishes about it which he confident upon the courage of his followers and his provision of victuals and armour defended against King Stephen untill it was wonne by assault EBORACENSIS Comitatus ovius Incolae olin Brigantes appellabantur pars Orientalis vulgo EAST RIDING EAST-RIDING EAST-RIDING the second part of this Region wherein Ptolomee placed the PARISI lyeth Eastward from Yorke On the North side and the West it is bounded with the River Darwent that runneth downe with a winding course on the South with the Salt water of Humber and on the East with the German Ocean Upon the Sea side and along Darwent the Soile is meetly good and fertile But in the mids it is nothing else but an heape of Hilles rising up on high which they call Yorkes wold Darwent springing not farre from the shore first taketh his way Westward then hee windeth into the South by Aiton and Malton whereof because they belong to the North part of the Shire I will speake in due place No sooner is hee entred into this Quarter but downe hee runneth not farre from the ruines of the old Castle Montferrant The Lords whereof were in times past the Fossards men of noble parentage and wealthy withall But when William Fossard Ward to the King being committed unto William le Grosse Earle of Aumarle as to his Guardian and now come to his yeeres abused his sister the Earle in wreckfull displeasure for this fact of his laid this Castle even with the ground and forced the young Gentleman to forsake his Country Howbeit after the Earles death he recovered his inheritance againe and left one onely daughter behinde him who being marryed unto R. de Torneham bare a daughter marryed to Peter de Mauley whose heires and successours being bettered in their estate by this inheritance of the Fossards became great and honourable Barons Not farre from hence is situate upon the River side Kirkham as one would say of Church-place For a Priory of Chanons was there founded by Walter Espec a man of high place and calling by whose daughter a great estate accrewed to the family of the Lord Rosses Then but somewhat lower Darwent had a City of his owne name which Antonine the Emperour calleth DERVENTIO and placeth it seven miles from YORKE The booke of Notices maketh mention of a Captaine over the Company Derventiensis under the Generall of Britaine that resided in it and in the Saxons Empire it seemeth to have beene
gold made him Lord chiefe Baron of his Exchequer conferred upon him the whole Seignorie or Lordship of Holdernes together with other lands belonging unto the Crown and that by the Kings Charter yea and ordained that he should be reputed a Baneret Yet if any man make doubt hereof the Recordes I hope may satisfie him fully in which William De la Pole is in plaine tearmes called Dilectus Valectus et Mercator noster that is Our wellbeloved Valect and our Merchant now Valect to tell you once for all was in those daies an honorable title as well in France as in England but afterward applied unto servants and gromes whereupon when the Gentry rejected it by changing the name they began to bee called Gentlemen of the Bedchamber From Hull a Promontorie runneth on forward and shooteth out a farre into the sea which Ptolomee calleth OCELLVM wee Holdernesse and a certaine monke Cavam Deiram as it were the hollow Country of the Deirians in the same signification that Coelosyria is so tearmed as one would say Holow Syria In this Promontory the first towne wee meet with in the winding shore is Headon in times past if wee list to beleeve fame that useth to amplifie the truth and which for my part I will not discredit risen to exceeding great account by the industry of merchants and sea-faring men from which so uncertaine is the condition as well of places as of people it is so much fallen by the vicinity of Hull and the choaking up of the haven which hath empoverished it that it can shew scarce any whit of the ancient state it had Although King Iohn granted unto Baldwin Earle of Aulbemarle and of Holdernesse and to his wife Hawis free Burgage heere so that the Burgers might hold in free Burgage with those customes that Yorke and Nichol that is Lincolne Yet now it beginneth by little and little to revive againe in hope to recover the former dignity There standeth hard by the Pomontorie an ancient towne which Antonine the Emperour called PRAETORIVM but we in our age Patrington like as the Italians have changed the name of a towne sometime called Praetorium into Petrovina That I doe not mistake herein both the distance from DELGOVITIA and the very name yet remaining doth prove which also in some sort implieth that this is the very same that in Ptolomees copies is written PETVARIA corruptly for Praetorium But whether this name were given it either from Praetorium that is the hall of Justice or from some large and stately house such as the Romans tearmed Praetoria it doth not appeare for certaine The inhabitants glorie much yet as touching their Antiquity and the commodiousnesse of the haven in ancient times and they may as well glorie for the pleasantnesse thereof For it hath a most delectable prospect on the one side lieth the maine sea brimme upon it on the other Humber a famous arme of the sea and over against it the fresh and greene skirtes of Lincoln-shire The high way of the Romans from the Picts wall which Antonine the Emperor followed here endeth For Ulpian hath written that such high waies commonly end at the sea at rivers or at Cities Somewhat lower standeth Winsted the habitation of the Hildeards knights of ancient descent and higher into the Country Rosse from whence the honorable family of the Barons Rosse tooke their name like as they were seated there in times past and hard by the sea-side Grimstons-garth where the Grimstons for a long time have lived in good reputation and a little from hence standeth Rise the mansion house in old time of certaine noble men bearing the name of Falconberg And then in the very necke of the promontorie where it draweth in most narrow into a sharpe point and is called Spurnhead is KELNSEY a little village which plainely sheweth that this is the very OCELLVM mentioned by Ptolomee for as from OCELLVM Kelnsey is derived so Ocellum doubtlesse was made of Y-kill which as I have said before signifieth in the British tongue a Promontory or narrow necke of land From Spurn-head the shore withdraweth it selfe backe by little and little and gently bending inward shooteth Northward by Overthorne and Witherensey two little Churches called of the sisters that built them Sisters kirks and not farre from Constable-Burton so called of the Lords thereof who being by marriages linked to right honorable houses flourish at this day in great worship and out of which familie Robert as wee read in the booke of the Abbay of Meaux was one of the Earle of Aulbemarls knights who being aged and full of daies took upon him the Crosse and went with King Richard in his voiage toward the holy land Then by Skipsey which Dru the first Lord of Holdernesse fortified with a Castle When the shore beginneth to spread againe and beare out into the sea it maketh roome for a bay or creeke that Ptolomee calleth EYAIMENON GABRANTO VICORUM which the Latin Interpreters have translated some PORTUOSVM SINVM that is the barborous Creeke others SALVTAREM that is the safe Creeke But neither of them both better expresseth the nature of the Greeke word than the very name of a little village in the nouke thereof which wee call Sureby For that which is safe and sure from danger the Britans and French men both terme Seur as wee Englishmen sure who peradventure did borrow this word from the Britans There is no cause therefore why we should doubt but that this creeke was that very EYAIMENON of the GABRANTOVICI who dwelt there abouts Hard by standeth Bridlington a towne very well knowne by reason of Iohn of Bridlington a poeticall monkish prophet whose ridiculous prophesies in Rhime I have read albeit they were not worth the reading And not farre from hence for a great length toward Driffield was there a ditch cast up and brought on by the Earles of Holdernesse to confine and bound their lands which they called Earles Dyke But whence this little nation here inhabiting were named GABRANTOVICI I dare not search unlesse happily it were of goates which the Britans tearme Gaffran and whereof there is not greater store in al Britain than hereabout Neither ought this derivation of the name to seeme absurd seeing that Aegira in Achaia borroweth the name of goats Nebrodes in Sicily of fallow Deere and Boeotia in Greece of Kine and Oxen. That little Promontory which with his bent made this creeke is commonly called Flamborough head and in the Saxon tongue Fleam 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by Authors who write that Ida the Saxon who first subdued these Countries arrived here Some think it took the name from a watchtowre which did by night put forth a flame or burning light for to direct sailers into the haven For the Britans retaine yet out of the provinciall language this word Flam and Mariners paint this creeke in their sea-cards with a blazing flame on the
clawbackes BRITANNICUS even when the Britans would have elected an Emperour against him And then it may seeme was this Statue of his set up when he prizing himselfe more than a man proceeded to that folly that he gave commandement he should be called The Romane Hercules Iupiters sonne For hee was portraied in the habite of Hercules and his right hand armed with a club under which there lay as I have heard such a mangled Inscription as this broken heere and there with voide places betweene the draught whereof was badly taken out and before I came hither was utterly spoiled CAESARI AUGUSTO MARCI AURELII FILIO SEN IONIS AMPLISSIMI VENTS PIUS This was to be seene in Nappa an house built with turrets and the chiefe seat of the Medcalfs thought to be at this day the greatest family for multitude of the same name in all England for I have heard that Sir Christopher Medcalfe knight and the top of this kinred beeing of late high-Sheriffe of the shire accompanied with three hundred men of the same house all on horsback and in a livery met and received the Justices of Assizes and so brought them to Yorke From hence runneth Vre downe a maine full of Creifishes ever since Sir Christopher Medcalfe in our remembrance brought that kinde of fish hither out of the South part of England and betweene two rockes whereof the place is named Att-scarre it runneth head long downe not far from Bolton a stately Castle the ancient seat of the Barons Scrops and which Richard Lord le Scrope and Chancellour of England under king Richard the Second built with exceeding great coste and now bending his course Eastward commeth to Midelham the honour whereof as wee reade in the Genealogie or Pedegree of the Nevils Alan Earle of Richmond bestowed upon his younger brother Rinebald with all the lands which before their comming belonged to Gilpatrick the Dane His nephew by his sonne Raulph named Robert Fitz-Raulph had all Wentsedale also by gift of Conan Earle of Britaine and of Richmond and at Midleham raised a most strong Castle His sonne Ranulph erected a little Abbay for Chanons at Coverham called now short Corham in Coverdale whose sonne Raulph had a daughter named Mary who being wedded to Robert Lord Nevill with this marriage translated this very faire and large inheritance as her portion into the family of Nevils Which Robert Nevill having had many children by his wife was taken in adultery unknowne and by the husband of the adulteresse being for revenge berest of his genitours shortly after dyed with extremity of paine Then Ure after it hath passed a few miles forward watereth Iervis or Iorvalle Abbay of Cistertians founded first at Fo rs and after translated hither by Stephen Earle of Britaine and Richmond but now wholly ruinated and after that Masham which was the possession of the Scropes of Masham who as they sprung from the stocke of the Scropes of Bolton so they were by marriages ingraffed againe into the same On the other side of this River but more inward standeth Snath the principall house of the Barons Latimer who derived their noble descent from George Nevill younger sonne of Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmorland and he received this Title of honour from king Henry the Sixth when as the ancienter house of the Latimers expired in a female and so by a continued succession they have flourished unto these our daies when for default of male issue of the last Baron Latimer that goodly and rich inheritance was divided among his daughters marryed into the families of the Percies Cecils D'anvers and Cornwallis Neither are there any other places in this part of the shire worth the naming that Ure runneth by unlesse it bee Tanfeld the habitation in times past of the Gernegans knights from whom it descended to the Marmions the last of whom left for his heire Amice second wife to John Lord Grey of Rotherfeld by whom he had two sonnes John that assumed the sirname of Marmion and died issuelesse and Robert who left behinde him one onely daughter and sole heire Elizabeth wife to Sir Henry Fitz-Hugh a noble Baron After this Ure entertaineth the River Swale so called as Th. Spot writeth of his swiftnesse selfe into it with a maine and violent streame which Swale runneth downe Eastward out of the West Mountaines also scarce five miles above the head of Ure a River reputed very sacred amongst the ancient English for that in it when the English Saxons first embraced Christianity there were in one day baptized with festivall joy by Paulinus the Archbishop of Yorke above tenne thousand men besides women and little children This Swale passeth downe along an open Vale of good largenesse which of it is called Swal-dale having good plenty of grasse but as great want of wood first by Marrick where there stood an Abbay built by the Askes men in old time of great name also by Mask a place full of lead ore Then runneth it through Richmond the chiefe towne of the Country having but a small circuit of walles but yet by reason of the Suburbs lying out in length at three Gates well peopled and frequented Which Alan the first Earle thereof built reposing small trust in Gilling a place or Manour house of his hard by to withstand the violence of the Danes and English whom the Normans had despoiled of their inheritance and hee adorned it with this name as one would say The rich Mount he fensed it with a wall and a most strong Castle which being set upon a rocke from an high looketh downe to Swale that with a mighty rumbling noise rusheth rather than runneth among the stones For the said house or Manour place of Gilling was more holy in regard of devout religion than sure and strong for any fortification it had ever since that therein Beda calleth it Gethling Oswy King of Northumberland being entertained guest-wise was by his hoste forelaid and murthered for the expiation whereof the said Monastery was built highly accounted of among our ancestours More Northward Ravenswath Castle sheweth it selfe compassed with a good large wall but now fallen which was the seat of the Barons named Fitz-Hugh extracted from the ancient line of the English Nation who were Lords of the place before the Normans Conquest and lived in great name unto King Henry the Seventh his daies enriched with faire possessions by marriage with the heires of the noble houses of Furneaux and Marmion which came at last by the females unto the Fienes Lords Dacres in the South and to the Parrs Three miles beneath Richmond Swale runneth by that ancient City which Ptolomee and Antonine call CATURACTONIUM and CATARRACTON but Bede Catarractan and in another place the Village neere unto Catarracta whereupon I suppose it had the name of Catarracta that is a Fludfall or water-fall considering hard by there
the people dwelling thereby gather from hence salt sufficiently for their use And now the River as though it purposed to make an Island compasseth almost on every side the chiefe City of this Province standing on an hill whence the Saxons gave it the name Dunholm For as you may gather out of Bede they called an hill Dun and a river Island Holme Heereof the Latine Writers have made DUNELMUM the Normans Duresme but the common people most corruptly name it Durham It is seated on high and passing strongly withall yet taketh it up no great circuit of ground shaped in forme as one would say of an egge environed on every side save on the North with the River and fortified with a wall Toward the South side almost whereas the River fetcheth it selfe about standeth the Cathedrall Church aloft making a solemne and a sightly shew with an high Towre in the middest and two Spires at the West end In the middest there is a Castle placed as it were betweene two stone bridges over the river the one Eastward the other Westward From the Castle Northward is seene a spacious Mercate-place and Saint Nicholas Church from whence there runneth out a great length North-East a Suburbe compassed on two sides the River like as others on both sides beyond the River which leade unto the Bridges and euery of them have their severall Churches The originall of this City is of no great Antiquity For when the distressed Monkes of Lindisfarn driven hither and thither by the Danes Warres wandered up and downe without any certaine place of abode with the corps of Saint Cuthbert at length heere they setled themselves by divine direction about the yeere of our Salvation 995. But heare the whole matter out of mine Authour of Durham All the people accompanying the corps of that most holy Father Cuthbert came into Dunholme a place verily strong of it selfe by nature but not easily to bee inhabited as being wholly beset on every side with a most thicke Wood onely in the middest was a little Plaine which was wont to bee tilled and sowed with Corne where Bishop Aldwin built afterwards a faire Church of stone The foresaid Prelate therefore through the helpe of all the people and the assistance of Uthred Earle of Northumberland stocked up all the Wood and in short time made the whole place habitable To conclude the people generally from the River Coqued as farre as to Tees came right willingly as well to this worke as after that to build a Church and untill it was finished ceased not to follow that businesse devoutly Wherefore after the Wood was quite grub'd up and every one had their mansion places assigned out by lot The said Bishop in a fervent love to Christ and Saint Cuthbert upon an honest and godly intent beganne no small peece of worke to build a Church and endeavoured by all meanes to finish the same Thus farre mine Authour Not many yeeres after those Englishmen who could not endure the insolent command of the Normans presuming upon the naturall strength of the place chose it for their chiefe Hold and seat of resistance yea and from thence troubled the Conquerour not a little For William Gemeticensis writeth thus They went into a part of the Country which for waters and woods was inaccessible raising a Castle with a most strong trench and rampier which they called Dunholme out of which making many rodes sundry waies for a certaine space they kept themselves close there waiting for the comming of Swene King of the Danes But when that fell not out according to their expectation they provided for themselves by flight and King William comming to Durham granted many priviledges for establishing the liberty of the Church and built the Castle whereof I spake on the highest part of the hill which afterwards became the Bishops house and the keies thereof when the Bishopricke was voide were wont by an ancient custome to be hanged upon Saint Cuthberts shrine When this Castle was once built William of Malmesbury who lived about that time describeth this City in these words Durham is a prety hill rising by little and little from one plaine of the Valley with a gentle ascent untill it come to bee a mount and although by reason of the rough and steepe situation of the Rockes there is no way for the enemy to enter it yet they of these daies have erected a Castle upon the hill At the very foote and bottom of the Castle runneth a River wherein is great store of fish but of Salmons especially At the same time well neere as that ancient Booke reporteth William de Careleph the Bishop who gathered againe the dispersed Monkes hither for the Danes in every place had overthrowne their Cloistures pulled downe that Church which Aldwin had formerly built and beganne the foundation of another of a fairer worke which his successour Ralph finished And after that Nicholas Feruham Bishop and Thomas Mescomb Prior adjoyned a new Fabrique or frame unto it in the yeere of Christ 1242. And a good while after W. Skirlaw the Bishop built at the West end of the Church a faire peece of worke which they call Gallilee whereinto hee translated the marble Tombe of Venerable Bede In which place Hugh Pudsey beganne in times past an house wherein I use the words of an ancient Booke women might lawfully enter that whereas they had not corporall accesse unto the more secret holy places yet they might have some comfort by the beholding of the holy mysteries But that Ralph the Bishop aforesaid as our Historian writeth reduced the place â—etweene the Church and the Castle which had beene taken up with many dwelling houses into a plaine and open ground for feare least either any annoyance by filth or dangers by fire might come neere unto the Church And all be it the City was strong enough by the naturall site yet hee made it more strong and stately with a Wall reaching in length from the Chauncell of the Church unto the Keepe and Towre of the Castle Which wall now by little and little giveth place unto time and never that I could heare suffered any assault of enemy For when David Brus King of Scots had forraied the Country with fire and sword as farre as to Beanparke or Beereparke which is a Parke neere unto the City whiles King Edward the Third besieged Calais Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of Yorke with their Companies of men mustered up in haste encountered the Scots and so couragiously charged them that having taken the King prisoner they slew the most of the first and second battaile and put the third to a fearefull flight neither staied they at most steepe and cumbersome places untill they recovered their owne Holds This is that famous Battaile which our people call The Battaile at Nevils Crosse. For the chiefest of the Scottish Nobility being slaine and the King taken prisoner at this field they were enforced
as I have often said heeretofore shoote along through the middle of England and interpose themselves as umpires and Bounders betweene divers shires Lanca-shire lyeth toward the West in the English Saxon tongue 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 commonly termed Lonka-shire Lanca-shire and The County Palatine of Lancaster because it is notably knowne by the title of a County Palatine It is so enclosed betweene Yorke-shire on the East side and the Irish sea on the West that on the South side where it boundeth upon Cheshire it is broader and by little and little the more Northward it goeth where it confineth upon Westmorland the narrower it groweth And there by an Arme of the sea insinuating it selfe is interrupted and hath a good part of it which butteth upon Cumberland beyond the said Arme. Where the ground is plaine and champion it yeeldeth good store of Barly and Wheat that which lieth at the botom of the hilles is better for Otes The soile every where is meetely good and tolerable unlesse it be in certaine moist places and unwholsome called Mosses which notwithstanding make amends for these their discommodities with more plentifull commodities For if their upper coate bee pared away they yeeld certaine unctuous or fattish Turffes for fewell and some times under-ground trees or which have lien a long time buried there Underneath also in divers places they affourd abundance of marle which serveth in stead of mucke to enrich their grounds Whereby the soile that in mans opinion was held most unapt to beare Corne beginneth now to be so kinde and arable that it may be justly thought mens idlenesse in times past was greater than any naturall barrainesse of the soile But a man may judge of the goodnesse of the soile partly by the constitution and complexion of the Inhabitants who are to see to passing faire and beautifull and in part if you please by the Cattaile For in their Kine and Oxen which have goodly heads and faire spread hornes and are in body well proportionate withall you shall finde in manner no one point wanting that Mago the Carthaginian doth require as Columella specifieth out of him On the South part it is separated from Cheshire with the River Mersey which springing forth of the midland hilles having passed a little from his head becommeth a bound to distinguish the Shires and with a slow current runneth Westward calling as it were other rivers to use the words of the Poet into his skie coloured and azure lappe and forthwith gladly biddeth welcome unto Irwell from the North which river bringeth along with him all the rivers of this Easterne part Among these Roch is of greatest name which hath standing upon it in the Vale Rochdale a Mercate Towne well frequented like as Irwell it selfe hath situate upon it Bury a Mercate Towne nothing inferiour to the other and hard by whiles I carefully sought for COCCIUM mentioned by Antonine the Emperour I saw Cockley a Chapell built of timber beset round about with trees Also Turton Chapell among very steepe downfalls and overgrowne unpleasant places Turton Towre and Entweissoll a proper faire house which had in times past Gentlemen of that name as Turton is the seate at this day of the right ancient family of Orell But where Irke and Irwell meet together on the left hand banke raised of a reddish kinde of stone scarce three miles from Mersey flourished that Towne of right great antiquity which we now call Manchester and Antonine the Emperour called MANCUNIUM and MANUCIUM according to the variety of the Copies This retaining the first part of his ancient name farre excelleth the Townes lying round about it for the beautifull shew it carrieth for resort unto it and for clothing in regard also of the Mercate-place the faire Church and College founded by Thomas Lord De-la-ware a Priest the last heire male of his Family and summoned to the Parliament among the Lords Temporall by the name of Magister Thomas de-la-ware For he descended from the Greleies who were the ancient Lords of this Towne and by Ioane sister of the said Sir Thomas it came to Wests now Lords De-la-ware But in the foregoing age this Towne was of farre greater account both for certaine wollen clothes there wrought and in great request commonly called Manchester Cottons and also for the liberty of a Sanctuary which under King Henry the Eighth was by Parliamentary authority translated to Chester In a Parke of the Earle of Derbies neere adjoyning called Alparke where the Brooke Medlocke entreth into Irwell I saw the plot and ground-worke of an ancient Fortresse built foure square commonly called Mancastle which I will not in any wise say was that ancient MANCUNIUM it is contained in so narrow a peece of ground but rather the Fort of Mancunium and station of the Romanes where they kept watch and ward at which I saw this ancient Inscription in a long stone to the memory of Candidus a Centurion ◠CANDIDI FIDES XX. IIII. As for this other Iohn Dee that most famous Mathematician and Warden of Manchester College who had a sight of the same heere copied it out for me COHO I. FRISIN ◠MASA VONIS P. XXIII Both which may seeme erected in honour of those Centurious for their loyalty and honesty so many yeeres approoved In the yeere of our Salvation 920. King Edward the Elder as Marianus writeth sent an Army of Mercians into Northumberland To reedifie the City of Manchester and to place a Garison there for it belonged formerly unto the Kings of Northumberland and seemeth to have beene quite destroyed in the Danish warre against whom because the inhabitants had borne themselves as valiant men they will have their towne to be called Manchester that is as they expound it The City of Men and in this conceit which implieth their owne commendation they wonderfully please and flatter themselves But full little know the good honest men that MANCUNIUM was the name of it in the Britans time so that the Etymologie thereof out of our English tongue can by no meanes seeme probable I for my part therefore would derive it rather from Main a British word which signifieth a Stone For upon a stony hill it is seated and beneath the very Towne at Colyhurst there are very good and famous quarries of stone But to returne againe Mersey now by this time carrying a fuller streame by reason of Irwell consociating with him holdeth on in his journey toward the Ocean by Trafford from whence the Traffords a Family of great good note tooke their name as they had their habitation also by Chatmosse a low mossie ground lying a great way in length and bredth a good part whereof the Brookes swelling high within our fathers remembrance carried quite away with them not without much danger Whereby the Rivers were corrupted and a number of fresh fish perished In which place now lyeth a Vale somewhat low watered with a little Brooke and trees
CONGAVATA was hereabout in which the second band of the Lergi served in garison for Congavata in the British tongue signifieth The valley by Gavata which now is called short Caud But the very place where this towne stood I cannot precisely point out Betwixt the meeting of these rivers the ancient City Carlile is passing commodiously and pleasantly seated garded on the North side with the chanell of Eden on the East with Peterill on the West with Caud and beside these naturall fenses it is fortified with strong walls of stone with a castle and a citadell as they tearme it In fashion it lyeth somewhat long running out from West to East on the West side is the Castle of a good large compasse which King Richard the third as appeareth by his Armes repaired In the midst almost of the City riseth on high the Cathedrall Church the upper part whereof being the newer is very artificially and curiously wrought yet the nether part is much more ancient But on the East side it is defended with the Citadel that K. Henry the eighth built strongly with sundry bulwarks The Romans and Britans called this city LUGU-VALLUM and LUGU-BALLIUM or LUGU-BALIA the English Saxons Luell as Bede witnesseth Ptolomee as some think LEUCOPIBIA Ninnius Caer Lualid the ridiculous prophesies of the Britans tearmed it The City of Duball we Carlile and Latine writers by a newer name Carleolum For our Historiographers accord with common consent that Luguballia and Carleolum were the same But in searching out the Etymology thereof good God how hath Leland bestirred him being in the end driven to this point that he thought verily Eden was called Lugus and Ballum came from Vallis that is a vale so that Lugu-ballum soundeth as much as the Vale by Lugus But I if so bee I may also hatch a conjecture would rather suppose but without prejudice that the said termination Vallum and Vallia are derived from that most famous military Vallum or Trench that standeth apparent a little from the City For that Picts Wall which was afterwards set upon the Trench or rampire of Severus appeareth somewhat beyond the River Eden which now hath a woodden bridge over it neere unto a little village called Stanwicke and went over the very river just against the Castle where within the chanell of the river mighty stones the remaines thereof are yet extant Also Lugus or Lucus amongst the ancient Celis or Gaules who spake the same language that once the Britans did signifieth a Tower as we may learn by Pomponius Mela. For that which in Antonine is named LUGO-AUGUSTI hee calleth TURRIM AUGUSTI that is The Tower of Augustus so that Luga-Vallum is as much to say as the Tower or Fort by the wall From this originall if the Frenchmen had derived Lugudunum as it were The tower on an hill and Lucotecia for so in old time they called that city which we doâ— Lutetia that is Paris as it were The faire Tower for so those words signifie in the British tongue peradventure they had aimed neerer unto the marke than in fetching the one from Lutum that is Dirt and that other from Lugdus an imagined King That this Carlile flourished in the time of the Romanes divers tokens of antiquity now and then digged up there and the famous mention of it in those dayes doe sufficiently prove After the furious outrages also of the Picts and Scots were allayed it retained some part still of the ancient dignity and was counted a City For in the yeere of Christ 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland passed a gift unto that holy Saint Cuthbert in this forme I have given unto him also the City called Luguballia and â—5 miles round about it at which time also it was walled strong The Citizens saith Bede brought Cuthbert to see the walls of their City and a fountain or Well in it built in times past according to the wonderfull workmanship of the Romanes who at the very same time as saith the book of Durham ordained there a Covent of Nuns with an Abbesse and Schooles Afterwards being defaced and brought to exceeding ruin by the Danes it lay about 200. yeeres buried under his owne ashes untill it began againe to flourish under the government and favour of King William Rufus who repaired it with new edifices built the Castle and placed a Colony there first of Flemmings whom streightwaies upon better advice he removed into Wales but afterwards of Southerne Englishmen Then was there seen as William of Malmesbury writeth A dining chamber after the Roman fashion built of stone arched with vaults so that no spitefull force of tempests nor furious flame of fire could ever shake or hurt it in the forefront whereof was this Inscription MARII VICTORIAE that is â—o the victory of Marius This Marius some will needs have to be Arviragus the Britan others that Marius who being proclaimed Emperour against Gallienus was named to bee of wonderfull strength that as writers report of him He had in his fingers no veines but all sinewes Yet have I learned that another making mention of this stone saith it was not inscribed MARII VICTORIAE but MARTI VICTORI that is To victorious Mars which perhaps may better content some and seeme to come nearer unto the truth Carlile being now better peopled and of greater resort had as they write for Earle or more truly for Lord thereof Ralph Meschines from whom came the Earles of Chester and at the same time being raised by King Henry the first to an Episcopall dignity had Artalph for the first Bishop Which the Monks of Durham have written was prejudiciall to their Church when Ranulph say they Bishop of Durham was banished and the Church had none to defend her certain Bishops laid Carlile and Tividale to their Dioeceses But how the Scotish under the reign of Stephen won this City and King Henry the second recovered it how also King Henry the third committed the castle of Carlile and the County to Robert Vipont how likewise in the yeere 1292. it was burnt together with the Cathedrall Church and the Suburbs and how Robert Briâ— King of Scots in the yeere 1315. land siege unto it in vaine you may finde in the common Chronicles And yet it seemes it would quit my paines to adjoyne here two inscriptions that I saw here the one in Thomas Aglion by his house neere unto the Citadell but made in the worse age DIIS MANIBU SMARCI TROJANI AUGUSTINANI TUM FA CIENDUM CUR A VIT AFEL AMMILLUSIMA CONJUX KARISS Whereunto is adjoined the image of a man of Armes on horsebacke armed at all peeces with a launce in his hand As for the other it standeth in the garden of Thomas Middleton in a very large and faire letter thus LEG VI VIC P. F. G. P. R. F. Which is as I ghesse Legio Sexta Victrix Pia Felix the rest let some other decipher The onely Earle that
Carlile had was Sir Andrew de Harcla whom King Edward the second created Earle that I may speake out of the very originall instrument of his Creation for his laudable good service performed against Thomas Earle of Lancaster and other his abetters in vanquishing the Kings enemies and disloiall subjects in delivering them up into the Kings hands when they were vanquished giâ—t with a sword and created Earle under the honour and name of the Earle of Carlile Who notwithstanding proved a wretched Traitour himselfe unthankfull and disloyally false both to his Prince and country and being afterwards apprehended was with shame and reproach paied duly for the desert of his perfidious ingratitude degraded in this maner first by cutting off his spurres with an hatchet afterwards disgirded of his military Belt then dispoiled of his shooes and gantlets last of all and was drawne hanged beheaded and quartered As for the position of Carlile the Meridian is distant from the utmost line of the West 21. degrees and 31. minutes and elevation of the North pole 54. degrees and 55. minutes and so with these encomiasticall verses of M. I. Ionston Ibid Carlile adue CARLEOLUM Romanis quondam statio tutissima signis Ultimaque Ausonidum meta labosque Ducum Especula laiè vicinos prospicit agros Hic ciet pugnas arcet inde metus Gens acri ingenio studiis asperrima belli Doctaque bellaci fig ere tela manu Scotorum Reges quondam tenuere beati Nunc iterum priscis additur imperiis Quid Romane putas extrema hîc limina mundi Mundum retrò alium surgere nonne vides Sit vidisse satis docuit nam Scotica virtus Immensis animis hîc posuisse modum CARLILE Unto the Romane legions sometimes the surest Station The farthest bound and Captaines toile of that victorious nation From prospect high farre all abroad it lookes to neighbour fields Hence fight and skirmish it maintaines and thence all danger shields People quicke witted fierce in field in martiall feats well seene Expert likewise right skilfully to fight with weapons keene Whilom the Kings of Scots it held whiles their state stood upright And once againe to ancient crowne it now reverts by right What Romane Cesar thinkest thou the world hath here an end And seest thou not another world behind doth yet extend Well maist thou see this and no more for Scotish valour taught Such haughty mindes to gage themselves and here to make default If you now crosse over the river Eden you may see hard by the banke Rowcliffe a little castle erected not long since by the Lords de Dacres for the defence of their Tenants And above it the two rivers Eske and Leven running jointly together enter at one out-gate into the Solway Frith As for Eske he rumbleth down out of Scotland and for certaine miles together confesseth himselfe to bee within the English dominion and entertaineth the river Kirsop where the English and Scottish parted asunder of late not by waters but by mutuall feare one of another having made passing good proofe on both sides of their great valour and prowesse Neere this river Kirsop where is now seene by Nether-By a little village with a few cottages in it where are such strange and great ruines of an ancient City and the name of Eske running before it doth sound so neare that wee may imagine AESICA stood there wherein the Tribune of the first band of the Astures kept watch and ward in old time against the Northren enemies But now dwelleth here the chiefe of the Grayhams family very famous among the Borderers for their martiall disposition and in a wall of his house this Romane inscription is set up in memoriall of Hadrian the Emperour by the Legion surnamed Augusta Secunda IMP. CAES. TRA. HADRIANO AUG LEG II. AUG F. But where the River Lidd and Eske conjoine their streames there was sometimes as I have heard Liddel castle and the Barony of the Estotevils who held lands in Cornage which Earle Ranulph as I read in an old Inquisition gave unto Turgill Brundas But from Estotevill it came hereditarily unto the Wakes and by them unto the Earles of Kent of the blood roiall And John Earle of Kent granted it unto King Edward the third and King Richard the second unto John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster Beyond this river Eske the land for certaine miles together is accounted English ground wherein Solom Mosse became very famous by reason especially of so many of the Scottish Nobility taken there prisoners in the yeere 1543. What time as the Scottish resolute to set upon Sir Thomas Wharton Lord warden of the English marches so soone as they understood that their King had committed the command of the army to Oliver Sincler whom they disdained they conceived such indignation thereat that with their owne shame and losse breaking their arraies in tumultuous manner they made a generall confusion of all which the English beholding from the higher ground forthwith charged violently upon them and put them to flight many they took prisoners who flinging away their weapons yeelded themselves after some few souldiers on both sides slaine into the hands of the English and of the borderers Presently whereupon James the fifth King of Scots was so disjected that weary of his life he died for very sorrow The land thereabout is called Batable ground as one would say Litigious because the English and the Scottish have litigiously contended about it For the inhabitants on both sides as borderers in all other parts are a military kind of men nimble wily alwaies in readines for any service yea and by reason of often skirmishes passing well experienced Leven the other river whereof I spake springing in the limit just of both kingdomes runneth by no memorable place unlesse it be Beucastle as they commonly call it a Castle of the Kings which standing in a wild and solitary country hath beene defended onely by a ward of souldiers But this in publicke records is written Bueth-castle so that the name may seeme to have come from that Bueth who about King Henry the first his dayes after a sort ruled all in this tract Certaine it is that in the reigne of Edward the third it was the patrimony of Sir John of Strivelin a Baron who married the daughter and one of the heires of Adam of Swinborne In the Church now much decaied there is layed for a grave-stone this old inscription translated thither from some other place LEG II. AUG FECIT In the Church-yard there is erected a Crosse about 20. foot high all of one entire foure square stone very artificially cut and engraven but the letters are so worn and gone that they cannot be read But whereas the Crosse is chequy in that manner as the shield of Armes belonging to the family of Vaulx sometime Lords in this tract we may well thinke that it was erected by them More into the South and farther within
the Fresian sea and the Scottish sea and the Eulogium Morwiridh Upon this after you be past Tantallon are seated first North-Berwick a famous place sometime for an house there of religious Virgins and then Dyrlton which belonged in times past to the notable family of the Haliburtous and now to S. Tho. Ereskin Captain of the guard whom James K. of great Britain for his happy valour in preserving him against the traiterous attempts of Gowrye first created Baron of Dirlton and afterward advanced him to the honourable title of Vicount Felton making him the first Vicount that ever was in Scotland Against these places there lyeth in the sea not far from the shore the Iland Bas which riseth up as it were all one craggy rocke and the same upright and steep on every side yet hath it a Block-house belonging to it a fountaine also and pastures but it is so hollowed with the waves working upon it that it is almost pierced thorough What a multitude of sea-foules and especially of those geese which they call Scouts and Soland geese flocke hither at their times for by report their number is such that in a cleere day they take away the sunnes light what a sort of fishes they bring for as the speech goeth a hundred garrison souldiers that here lay for defence of the place fed upon no other meat but the fresh fish that they brought in what a quantity of stickes and little twigges they get together for the building of their nests so that by their meanes the inhabitants are abundantly provided of fewell for their fire what a mighty gaine groweth by their feathers and oyle the report thereof is so incredible that no man scarcely would beleeve it but he that had seene it Then as the shore draweth backe Seton sheweth it selfe which seemeth to have taken that name of the situation by the sea side and to have imparted the same unto a right noble house of the Setons branched out of an English family and from the daughter of King Robert Brus out of which the Marquesse Huntley Robert Earle of Wentoun Alexander Earle of Dunfirmling advanced to honors by K. James the sixth are propagated After this the river Eske dischargeth it selfe into this Frith when it hath runne by Borthwic which hath Barons surnamed according to that name and those deriving their pedegree out of Hungary by Newbottle that is The new building sometimes a faire monasterie now the Barony of Sir Mark Ker by Dalkeith a very pleasant habitation of the late Earles of Morton and Musselborrow hard under which in the yeere of our Lord 1547. when Sir Edward Seimor Duke of Somerset with an army royall had entred Scotland to claime and challenge the keeping of a covenant made concerning a marriage betweene Marie Queene of Scotland and Edward the sixth King of England there happened the heaviest day that ever fell to the adventurous youth of the most noble families in all Scotland who there lost their lives Here I must not over-passe in silence this Inscription which John Napier a learned man hath in his Commentaries upon the Apocalyps recorded to have beene here digged up and which the right learned Knight Sir Peter Young teacher and trainer of King James the sixth in his youth hath in this wise more truely copied forth APOLLINI GRANNO Q. LUSIUS SABINIA NUS PROC AUG V. S.S.L.V.M Who this Apollo Granus might bee and whence hee should have this name not one to my knowledge of our grave Senate of Antiquaries hitherto could ever tell But if I might be allowed from out of the lowest bench to speak what I think I would say that Apollo Granus amongst the Romans was the same that 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is Apollo with long haire amongst the Greekes for Isidor calleth the long haire of the Gothes Grannos But here I may seem to wander out of my way and therefore will returne to it Lower yet and neere unto the Scotish Forth is seated EDENBUROUGH which the Irish Scots call Dun Eaden that is the towne Eaden or Eden Hill and which no doubt is the very same that Ptolomee named 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 that is The Winged Castle for Adain in the British tongue signifieth a wing and Edenborrow a word compounded out of the British and Saxon language is nothing else but The Burgh with wings From Wings therefore wee must fetch the reason of the name and fetched it may be if you thinke good either from the Companies of Horsemen which are called Wings or else from those Wings in Architecture which the great Master builders tearme Pâ—eromaâ—â— that is as Vetruvius sheweth two Wallâ— so rising up in heigth as that they resemble a shew of Wings which for that a certaine City of Cyprus wanted it was called in old time as wee read in the Geographers Aptera that is Without Wings But if any man beleeve that the name was derived from Ebrâ—â—k a Britaine or from Heth a Picâ— good leave have he for me I will not confront them with this my conjecture This Citie in regard of the high situation of the holsome are and plentifull soile and many Noble mens towred houses built round about it watered also with cleere springing fountaines reaching from East to West a mile out in length and carrying halfe as much in bredth is worthily counted the chiefe Citie of the whole Kingdome strongly walled adorned with houses as well publike as private well peopled and frequented by reason of the opportunity from the sea which the neighbour haven at Leth affordeth And as it is the seat of the Kings so is it the oracle also or closet of the Lawes and the very Palace of Justice For the high Courts of Parliament are here for the most part holden for the enacting or repealing of Lawes also the Session and the Court of the Kings Justice and of the Commissariat whereof I have spoken already are here settled and kept On the East side hard unto the Monastery of Saint Crosse or Holy ruide is the Kings palace which King David the first built over which within a Parke stored with game riseth an hill with two heads called of Arthur the Britaine Arthurs Chaire On the West side a most steepe rocke mounteth up aloft to a stately heigth every way save onely where it looketh toward the City on which is placed a Castle with many a towre in it so strong that it is counted impregnable which the Britans called Castle Myned Agneâ— the Scots The Maidens Castle and the Virgins Castle of certaine young maidens of the Picts royall blood who were kept there in old time and which may seeme in truth to have beene that Castrum Alatum or Castle with AVVING abovesaid How Edenborrow in the alternative fortune of warres was subject one while to the Scots and another while to the English who inhabited this East part of Scotland untill
it became wholly under the Scots dominion about the yeere of our salvation 960. what time the English Empire sore shaken with the Danish wars lay as it were gasping and dying How also as an old booke Of the division of Scotland in the Library of the right honourable Lord Burghley late high Treasurer of England sheweth Whiles Indulph reigned the town of Eden was voided and abandoned to the Scots unto this present day as what variable changes of reciprocall fortune it hath felt from time to time the Historiographers doe relate and out of them ye are to be enformed Meane while read if you please these verses of that most worthy man Master I. Jonston in praise of Edenborrow Monte sub acclivi Zephyri procurrit in auras Hinc arx celsa illinc Regia clara nitet Inter utramque patet sublimibus ardua tectis Urbs armis animis clara frequensque viris Nobile Scotorum caput pars maxima regni Penè etiam gentis integra regna suae Rarae artes opes quod mens optaverit aut hîc Invenias aut non Scotia tota dabit Compositum hîc populum videas sanctum que Senatum Sanctáque cum puro lumine jura Dei An quisquam Arctoi extremo in limite mundi Aut haec aut paria his cernere posse putet Dic hospes postquà m externas lustraveris urbes Haec cernens oculis credis an ipse tuis Under the rising of an hill Westward there shoots one way A castle high on th' other side the Kings house gorgeous gay Betweene them both the citie stands tall buildings shew it well For armes for courage much renown'd much people therein dwell The Scots head citie large and faire the kingdomes greatest part Nay even the nations kingdome whole well neere by just desart Rare arts and riches what ones minde can wish is therein found Or else it will not gotten be throughout all Scottish ground A civill people here a man may see a Senate grave Gods holy lawes with purest light of Preachers here ye have In parts remote of Northren clime would any person weene That ever these or such like things might possibly be seene Say Travailer now after that thou forraine towne hast knowne Beholding this beleevest thou these eyes that are thine owne A mile from hence lyeth Leth a most commodious haven hard upon the river Leth which when Dessey the Frenchman for the securitie of Edenborrow had fortified by reason of manie men repairing thither within a short time from a meane village it grew to be a bigge towne Againe when Francis the second King of France had taken to wife Marie the Queene of Scots the Frenchmen who in hope and conceit had already devoured Scotland and began now to gape for England in the yeere 1560. strengthened it with more fortifications But Elizabeth Queene of England solicited by the Nobles of Scotland that embraced the reformed religion to side with them by her puissance and wisdome effected that both they returned into France and these their fortifications were laied levell with the ground and Scotland ever since hath been freed from the French Where this Forth groweth more and more narrow it had in the middest of it the citie Caer-Guidi as Bede noteth which now may seeme to be the Island named Inch-Keith Whether this were that VICTORIA which Ptolomee mentioneth I will not stand to prove although a man may beleeve that the Romans turned this Guidh into Victoria as well as the Isle Guith or Wight into Victesis or Vecta certes seeing both these Islands bee dissevered from the shore the same reason of the name will hold well in both languages For Ninius hath taught us that Guith in the British tongue betokeneth a separation More within upon the same Forth is situate Abercorn in Bedes time a famous Monasterie which now by the gracious favour of King James the sixth giveth unto James Hamilton the title of the Earle of Abercorn And fast beside it standeth Blacknesse Castle and beneath it Southward the ancient citie LINDUM whereof Ptolomee maketh mention which the better learned as yet call Linlithquo commonly Lithquo beautified and set out with a verie faire house of the Kings a goodly Church and a fishfull lake of which lake it may seeme to have assumed that name for Lin as I have already shewed in the British tongue soundeth as much as a Lake A Sheriffe it had in times past by inheritance out of the family of the Hamiltons of Peyle and now in our dayes it hath for the first Earle Sir Alexander Levingston whom King James the sixth raised from the dignitie of a Baron wherein his Ancestours had flourished a long time to the honour of an Earle like as within a while after he promoted Mark Ker Baron of Newbottle aforesaid to the title of Earle of Lothien SELGOVAE BEneath the GADENI toward the South and West where now are the small territories of Lidesdale Eusdale Eskdale Annandale and Nidesdale so called of little rivers running through them which all lose themselves in Solway Frith dwelt in ancient times the SELGOVAE the reliques of whose name seeme unto mee whether unto others I know not to remaine in that name Solway In Lidesdale there riseth aloft Armitage so called because it was in times past dedicated to a solitarie life now it is a very strong Castle which belonged to the Hepburns who draw their originall from a certaine Englishman a prisoner whom the Earle of March for delivering him out of a danger greatly enriched These were Earles of Bothwell and a long time by the right of inheritance Admirals of Scotland But by a filter of James Earle of Bothwel the last of the Hepburns married unto John Prior of Coldingham base sonne to King James the fifth who begat too too many bastards the title and inheritance both came unto his son Hard by is Brakensey the habitation of the warlike family of Baclugh surnamed Scot beside many little piles or sorts of militarie men everie where In Eusdale I would deeme by the affinite of the name that old UZBLLUM mentioned by Ptolomee stood by the river Euse. In Eskdale some are of opinion that the HORESTI dwelt into whose borders Iulius Agricola when he had subdued the Britans inhabiting this tract brought the Roman armie especially if we read Horesci in stead of Horesti For Ar-Esc in the British tongue betokeneth a place by the river Eske As for Aesica in Eskdale I have spoken of it before in England and there is no cause wherefore I should iterate the same ANNANDALE UNto this on the West side adjoyneth ANNANDALE that is The vale by the river Annan into which the accesse by land is very difficult The places of greater note herein are these a castle by Lough-Mahan three parts whereof are environed with water and strongly walled and the towne Annandale at the very mouth almost
made a turfe wall rearing it not so much with stone as with turfes as having no canning Artificer for so great a piece of worke and the same to no use betweene two Friths or Armes of the sea for many miles in length that where the fense of water was wanting there by the helpe of a wall they might defend their borders from the invasion of enemies of which worke that is to say a very broad and high wall a man may see to this day most certaine and evident remaines This wall began as the Scots in these dayes give out at the river Aven that goeth into Edenborrough Forth and having passed over the riveret Carron reacheth unto Dunbritton But Bede as I said erewhile affirmeth that it beginneth in a place called Pen vaell that is in the Picts language as much as The head of the wall in the Britans tongue Pen-Gual in English Penwalton in Scottish Cevall all which names no doubt are derived from Vallum in Latine and he saith That place is almost two miles from Abereurvig or Abercurving And it endeth as the common sort thinke at Kirk-Patricke the native soile as some writeth of Saint Patrick the Irish-mens Apostle neere unto Cluyd according to Bede at Alcluid after Ninius at the Citie Pen Alcloyt which may seeme all one Now this wall is commonly called Grahams dyke either of Graham a warlike Scot whose valour was especially seene when the breach was made through it or else of the hill Grampie at the foot whereof it stood The author of Rota Temporum calleth it the wall of Aber-corneth that is of the mouth of the river Corneth where in Bedes time there was a famous monasterie standing as he hath recorded upon English ground but neere unto that frith or arme of the sea which in those daies severed the lands of the English and the Picts Hard by this wall of turfe what way as the river Carron crosseth this Sheriffdome of Sterling toward the left hand are seene two mounts cast up by mans hand which they call Duni pacis that is Knolles of peace and almost two miles lower there is an ancient round building foure and twentie cubits high and thirteene broad open in the top framed of rough stone without lime having the upper part of everie stone so tenanted into the nether as that the whole worke still rising narrow by a mutuall interlacing and clasping upholdeth it selfe Some call this the Temple of God TERMINUS others Arthurs-Oven who father everie stately and sumptuous thing upon Arthur Others againe Iulius Hoff and suppose it to have been built by Iulius Caesar. But I would think rather that Iulius Agricola built it who fortified this frontier part were it not that Ninius hath already enformed us that it was erected by Carausius for a triumphall Arch. For hee as Ninius writeth built upon the banke of Caron a round house of polished stone erecting a Triumphall Arch in memoriall of a victorie hee ree-dified also the wall and strengthened it with seven Castles In the middest space betweene Duni pacis and this building on the righthand-banke of Carron there is yet to be discerned a confused face of a little ancient Citie where the vulgar people beleeveth there was sometimes a road for ships who call it Camelot by a name that is rife in King Arthurs booke and they contend but all in vaine to have it that Camalodunum which Tacitus mentioneth But it would seeme rather by the name of the river Carron running underneath to have beene CORTA DAMNIORUM which Ptolomee mentioneth in this tract And now take with you that which George Buchanan that excellent Poet wrote of the limit of the Roman Empire at Carron Roma securigeris praetendit maenia Scotis Hîc spe progressus positâ Carronis ad undam Terminus Ausonii signat divertia regni 'Gainst warlike Scots with axes arm'd a mightie frontier wall The Romans rais'd and limit there which TERMINUS they call Neere Carron streame now past all hope more British ground to gaine Markes out the Roman Empires end whence they to turne were faine In this territorie of Sterling on the East side there sheweth it selfe Castle Callendar belonging to the Barons of Levingston and the family of the Barons Fleming dwelleth hard by at Cumbernald which they received at the hands of King Robert Brus for their service valiantly faithfully performed in defence of their country whereby also they attained unto the hereditarie honour to be Chamberlaines of Scotland And even very lately the favour of King James the Sixth hath honoured this house with the title of Earle what time as he created I. Baron Fleming Earle of Wigton In a place neere adjoining standeth Elpheingston which likewise hath his Barons advanced to that dignitie by King James the fourth And where Forth full of his windings and crooked crankes runneth downe with a rolling pace and hath a bridge over him standeth Sterlin commonly called Strivelin and Sterlin Burrough where on the very brow of a steepe rocke there is mounted on high a passing strong Castle of the Kings which King James the sixth hath beautified with new buildings and whereof this long time the Lords of Ereskin have been Captaines unto whom the charge and tuition of the Princes of Scotland during their minoritie hath been otherwhiles committed Whereas some there be that would have the good and lawfull money of England which is called Sterling money to take the name from hence they are much deceived for that denomination came from the Germans of their Easterly dwelling termed by Englishmen Esterlings whom King John of England first sent for to reduce the silver to the due finenesse and puritie and such monies in ancient writing are ever more found by the name of Esterling But concerning Sterlin towne the verses that I. Jonston hath made shall supply all the rest Regia sublimis celsa despectat ab arce Pendula sub biferis maenia structa jugis Regum augusta parens Regum nutricula natis Hinc sibi Regifico nomine tota placet Hospita sed cuivis quovis sub nomine amicus Sive es seu non es hospes an hostis item Pro lucro cedit damnum Discordia tristis Heu quoties procerum sanguine tinxit humum Hoc uno infelix at felix coetera nusquam Laetior aut caelifrons geniusve soli A regall palace stately set beholds from mount aloft Towne wall built hanging on the side of hill with double cost The sacred mother unto Kings of Kings babes eke the nource Hence is it that she prides her selfe in Kings names and no worse But entertaineth every one by name it skils not what A friend or foe friend guest or no she reckneth nought of that In steed of gaine this turnes to losse Besides how oft alas Hath discord foule with Nobles blood stain'd hence both ground and grasse In this alone unhappie she else not nor shall ye finde
see in his memoriall The Rhene in Gaul and Britans grim the farthest men of all In the daies of Severus as we read in Xiphilinus Argetecox a pettie Prince reigned over this tract whose wife being rated and reviled as an adulteresse by Iulia the Empresse frankly and boldly made this answer We Britaine Dames have to doe with the bravest and best men and you Roman Ladies with everie leud base companion secretly FIFE IN this large countrey of the Caledonians beyond the Territorie of Sterlin whereof I wrote last and two countries or Sheriffedomes of lesse note Clackmans over which a Knight named de Carsse and Kinros over which the Earle of Morton are Sheriffes FIFE a most goodly Biland wedged as it were betweene the two Armes of the Sea Forth and Tau shooteth out farre into the East This land yeeldeth plentie of corne and forage yea and of pit coales the sea besides other fishes affordeth Oisters and Shell-fish in great abundance and the coasts are well bespred with prettie townlets replenished with stout and lustie mariners In the South side hereof by Forth first appeareth Westward Cul-ros which giveth the title of a Baronie to Sir I. Colvill then standeth Dunfermling a famous monasterie in old time both the building and buriall place of King Malcolm the third But now it giveth both name and honour of an Earle unto Sir Alexander Seton a most prudent Counsellor whom lately James King of great Britain worthily raised from Baron of Fivie to be Earle of Dunfermling and Lord Chancellour of the realme of Scotland Then Kinghorne standeth hard upon the Forth from which place Sir Patrick Lion Baron Glamys lately received at the bountifull hand of King James the sixth the title and honour of an Earle After this there is upon the shore Disert situate on the rising of an hill from whence there lieth an open Heath of the same name where there is a good large place which they call the Cole-plot that hath great plentie of an earthie Bitumen and partly burneth to some damage of the inhabitants Unto it adjoineth Ravins-Heuch as one would say The steepe hill of Ravens the habitation of the Barons Seincler Above it the river Levin hideth himselfe in the Forth which river running out of the Lake Levin wherein standeth a Castle of the Douglasses now Earles of Morton hath at the verie mouth of it Wemmis Castle the seat of a noble family bearing the same surname which King James the sixth hath of late honoured with the dignity of a Baron From hence the shore draweth backe with a crooked and winding tract unto Fif-nesse that is The Promontorie or Nose of Fife Above it Saint Andrews an Archiepiscopall Citie hath a faire prospect into the open maine sea The more ancient name of the place as old memorials witnesse was Regimund that is Saint Regulus mount in which we read thus Oeng or Ung King of the Picts granted unto God and Saint Andrew that it should be the chiefe and mother of all Churches in the Picts Kingdome Afterward there was placed here an Episcopall See the Bishops whereof like as all the rest within the Kingdome of Scotland were consecrated by the Archbishop of Yorke untill at the intercession of King James the third by reason of so many warres betweene the Scottish and Englishmen Pope Sixtus the fourth ordained the Bishop of Saint Andrewes to be Primate and Metropolitane of all Scotland and Pope Innocentius the eighth bound him and his successours to the imitation and precedent of the Metropolitane of Canterburie in these words That in matters concerning the Archiepiscopall state they should observe and firmely hold the offices droits and rights of Primacie and such like Legacie and the free exercise thereof the honours charges and profits and that they should endevour to performe inviolably the laudable customes of the famous Metropolitane Church of Canterburie the Arch-bishop whereof is Legatus natus of the Kingdome of England c. Howbeit before that Laurence Lundoris and Richard Corvel Doctors of the Civill law publikely professed here good literature laid the foundation of an Universitie which now for happie encrease of learned men for three Colledges and the Kings Professours in them is become highly renowned In commendation whereof Master Ionston the Kings Professour there in Divinitie hath made these verses FANUM REGULI SIVE ANDREAPOLIS Imminet Oceano paribus descripta viarum Limitibus pingui quà m benè septa solo Magnificis opibus staret dum gloria prisca Pontificum hîc fulsit Pontificalis apex Musarum ostentat surrecta palatia coelo Delicias hominum deliciasque Deûm Hîc nemus umbriferum Phoebi Nymphaeque sorores Candida quas inter praesitet Uranie Quae me longinquis redeuntem Teutonis oris Suscipit excelso collocat inque gradu Urbs nimium felix Musarum si bona nôsset Munera aetherei regna beata Dei. Pelle malas pestes urbe quae noxia Musis Alme Deus coeant Pax pietásque simul SAINT REGULUS OR S. ANDREWS Seated it is hard by the sea at even and equall bounds Of streets how well enclosed besides with fat and fertile grounds Whilom when Prelates state was great and glorious withall There flourish'd here in sumptuous port a See Pontificall Now Schooles it shewes and Colledges both Gods and mans delight To Muses which be dedicate and built to stately height Here Phaebus hath his shadie grove here dwell the Sisters nine And chiefe of them the Ladie bright Uranie divine Who when I was returned from farre coasts of Germanie With welcome kinde here did me place in chaire of high degree Most happie towne wist it what were the gifts of learning true The blessed Kingdome if withall of God in heaven it knew All plagues good God all nocive things to Muses hence repell That in this Citie Godlinesse and Peace may jointly dwell Hard by there loseth it selfe in the sea Eden or Ethan a little river which springing up neere unto Falkland belonging in times past to the Earles of Fife but now a retyring place of the Kings verie well seated for hunting pleasures and disports runneth under a continued ridge of hills which divide this countrey in the midst by Struthers a place so called of a Reedplot a Castle of the Barons Lindsey and by Cupre a notable Burrough where the Sheriffe sitteth to minister justice Concerning which the same I. Ionston hath thus versified CUPRUM FIFAE ARVA inter nemorÃsque umbras pascua laeta Lenè fluens vitreis labitur Eden aquis Hûc veniat si quis Gallorum â finibus hospes Gallica se hîc iterum fortè videre putet Anne etiam ingenium hinc fervida pectora traxit An potiùs patriis hauserit illa focis By rich corne fields by shadie woods and pastures fresh among The river Eden glideth soft with chrystall streame along Hither to come from coasts of France if any
tongue the Isle of Masses hereby may bee remembred when as it was a most famous Abbey of the order of Saint Augustin founded by the Earle of Strathern about the yeere 1200. When Ern hath joined his water with Tau in one streame so that Tau is now become more spatious hee looketh up to Aberneth seated upon his banke the royall seat in old time of the Picts and a well peopled Citie which as we read in an ancient fragment Nectane King of the Picts gave unto God and S. Brigide untill the day of Doom together with the bounds thereof which lye from a stone in Abertrent unto a stone nigh to Carfull that is Loghfoll and from thence as farre as to Ethan But long after it became the possession of the Douglasses Earles of Anguse who are called Lords of Aberneth and there some of them lye enterred The first Earle of Strathern that I read of was Malisse who in the time of King Henrie the third of England married one of the heires of Robert Muschamp a potent Baron of England Long afterward Robert Stewart in the yeere 1380. Then David a younger sonne of King Robert the second whose onely daughter given in marriage to Patricke Graham begat Mailise or Melisse Graham from whom King James the first tooke away the Earledome as escheated after that he understood out of the Records of the Kingdome that it was given unto his mothers grandfather and the heires males of his bodie This territorie as also that of Menteith adjoining the Barons Dromund governe hereditarily by Seneschals authority as their Stewarties Menteith hath the name of Teith a river which also they call Taich and thereof this little province they tearme in Latin Taichia upon the banke of which lieth the Bishopricke of Dunblan which King David the first of that name erected At Kirkbird that is Saint Brigids Church the Earles of Menteith have their principall house or Honour as also the Earles of Montrosse comming from the same stocke at Kin-Kardin not farre off This Menteith reacheth as I have heard unto the mountaines that enclose the East side of the Logh or Lake Lomund The ancient Earles of Menteith were of the family of Cumen which in times past being the most spred mightiest house of all Scotland was ruinated with the over-weight and sway thereof but the latter Earles were of the Grahams line ever since that Sir Mailise Graham attained to the honour of an Earle ARGATHELIA OR ARGILE BEyond the Lake Lomund and the West part of Lennox there spreadeth it selfe neere unto Dunbriton Forth the large countrey called Argathelia Argadia in Latin but commonly ARGILE more truely Argathel and Ar-Gwithil that is Neere unto the Irish or as old writings have it The edge or border of Ireland For it lyeth toward Ireland the inhabitants whereof the Britans tearme Gwithil and Gaothel The countrey runneth out in length and breadth all mangled with fishfull pooles and in some places with rising mountaines very commodious for feeding of cattell in which also there range up and downe wilde kine and red Deere but along the shore it is more unpleasant in sight what with rockes and what with blackish barraine mountaines In this part as Bede writeth Britain received after the Britans and Picts a third nation of Scots in that countrey where the Picts inhabited who comming out of Ireland under the leading of Reuda either through friendship or by dint of sword planted here their seat amongst them which they still hold Of which their leader they are to this very day called Dalreudini for in their language Dal signifieth a part And a little after Ireland saith hee is the proper Countrey of the Scots for being departed out of it they added unto the Britans and Picts a third nation in Britaine And there is a very great Bay or arme of the sea that in old time severed the nation of the Britans from the Picts which from the West breaketh a great way into the land where standeth the strongest Citie of all the Britans even to this day called Alchith In the North part of which Bay the Scots aforesaid when they came got themselves a place to inhabite Of that name Dalreudin no remaines at all to my knowledge are now extant neither finde wee any thing thereof in Writers unlesse it bee the same that Dalrieta For in an old Pamphlet touching the division of Albanie wee read of one Kinnadie who for certaine was a King of Scots and subdued the Picts these very words Kinnadie two yeeres before hee came into Pictavia for so it calleth the countrey of the Picts entred upon the Kingdome of Dalrieta Also in an historie of later time there is mention made of Dalrea in some place of this tract where King Robert Brus fought a field unfortunately That Justice should be ministred unto this Province by Justices Itinerant at Perth whensoever it pleased the King King James the fourth by authoritie of the States of the Kingdome enacted a law But the Earles themselves have in some cases their roialties as being men of very great command and authoritie followed with a mightie traine of retainers and dependants who derive their race from the ancient Princes and Potentates of Argile by an infinite descent of Ancestours and from their castle Cambell tooke their surname but the honour and title of Earle was given unto them by King James the second who as it is recorded invested Colin Lord Cambell Earle of Argile in regard of his owne vertue and the worth of his family Whose heires and successours standing in the gracious favour of the Kings have bin Lords of Lorn and a good while Generall Justices of the Kingdome of Scotland or as they use to speake Iustices ordained in Generall and Great Masters of the Kings royall household CANTIRE LOgh Fin a lake breeding such store of herrings at a certaine due season as it is wonderfull severeth Argile from a Promontorie which for thirtie miles together growing still toward a sharpe point thrusteth it selfe forth with so great a desire toward Ireland betwixt which and it there is a narrow sea scarce thirteene miles over as if it would conjoine it selfe Ptolomee termeth this the Promontorie EPIDIORUM betweene which name and the Islands EBUDAE lying over against it there is in my conceit some affinitie At this day it is called in the Irish tongue which they speake in all this tract CAN-TYRE that is The lands Head inhabited by the Mac-Conells a family that here swayeth much howbeit at the pleasure and dispose of the Earle of Argile yea and otherwhiles they make out their light pinnaces and gallies for Ireland to raise booties and pillage who also hold in possession those little provinces of Ireland which they call Glines and Rowts This Promontorie lyeth annexed to Knapdale by so thin a necke as being scarce a mile broad and the same all sandie that the mariners finde it the neerer
therein bee with the narrowest thrust close and pent together yet such is the convenience and commodiousnesse of the haven that for wealth fresh trading and frequent resort it is the second City in all Ireland and hath alwaies shewed a singular loialty fidelitie and obedience to the Imperiall Crowne of England For ever since that Richard Earle of Pembrok wanne it it hath continued so faithfull and quietly disposed that it performed at all times safe and secure peace unto the English on their backes whiles they went on in the conquering of Ireland Whence it is that the Kings of England have granted unto it very many and those right large Franchises which King Henry the seventh augmented and confirmed because the Citizens had demeaned themselves most valiantly and wisely against that Mock-Prince Perkin Warbeck who being a young man of base condition by hoising up the full sailes of impudence went about to mount up aloft unto the Imperiall diadem whiles he a meer suborned counterfeit tooke upon him to be Richard Duke of Yorke the second sonne of King Edward the fourth This countie of Waterford together with the city King Henry the sixth gave unto Iohn Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury aforesaid by these words which because they testifie the valerous vertue of that most martiall Knight to the end that vertue might have the due honour thereto belonging I thinke it worth my labour and haply any man else would deeme no lesse to put downe out of the Record which may be Englished thus We therefore saith the King after other eloquent termes penned by the Secretaries of that age when there was but simple Latin weighing with due consideration the valiant prowesse of our most deere and faithfull cousin John Earle of Shrewsbury and of Weisford Lord Talbot Furnivall and Le Strange sufficiently tried and approved even unto his old age in the warres aforesaid upon his body no lesse bedewed with sweat many a time than embrued with blood and considering in what sort our Countie and Citie of Waterford in our land of Ireland the Castle Seigniory Honour Land and Baronie of Dungarvan and all the Lordships Lands Honours and Baronies with the pertinences within the same County which by forfeiture of rebels by reversion or decease of any person or persons by escheat or any other title of law ought to come into our hands or our progenitors or in the same to be by reason of the hostile invasions of our enemies and rebells in those parts are become so desolate and lye so much exposed to the spoiles of warre wholly as it were wasted that they turne us to no profit but have and doe redound oftentimes to our detriment in this regard also that by the same our Cousin our foresaid land of Ireland may the more valiantly be defended in those parts against such attempts and invasions of our enemies and rebells doe ordaine promote and create him Earle of Waterford together with the stile title name and honour thereto belonging And because as the highnesse of his state and degree groweth all things consequently of necessity grow withall upon our speciall grace certaine knowledge and meere motion and for the estate of the Earle himselfe our Cousin to be maintained in more decent manner we have given granted and by these our letters confirmed unto the same Earle the County aforesaid together with the foresaid stile title name and honour of Earle of Waterford yea and the foresaid City with the fee ferme of the same the Castles Lordships Honours Lands and Baronies with the pertinences within the County likewise all and every sort the Manors Hundreds Wapentakes c. all along the sea coast from the towne of Yoghall unto Waterford City aforesaid To have and to hold the foresaid County of Waterford the stile title name and honour of Earle of Waterford and the City Waterford aforesaid the Castle Seigniory Honour Land and Barony of Dungarvan and all other Lordships Honours Lands and Baronies within the said county as also all and every the foresaid Manors Hundreds c. unto the above named Earle and the heires males issuing out of his body to have I say and to hold of us and our heires by homage fealty and the service of being and to be our Seneschall or Steward and that his heires be the Seneschals of Ireland to us and our heires throughout our whole land of Ireland to do and that hee doe and ought himselfe to doe in the same his office that which his predecessors Seneschals of England were wont to doe hitherto in that office for ever In witnesse whereof c. But when as whiles the Kings of England and the Nobles who had large and goodly possessions in Ireland were much busied and troubled a long time first with the warres of France and afterward with civill warres at home Ireland lay in manner neglected and the State of English there falling still to decay was now in manner come to nothing but the Irishry by occasion of the others absence grew exceeding mighty for to recover these losses and to abate the power of the Irish it was ordained and enacted by the States of the Realme in Parliament that the Earle of Shrewsbury for his absence and carelesnesse in maintaining of his owne should surrender into the hands of the King and his successors the Earledome and towne of Waterford the Duke of Norfolke likewise the Baron Barkley the heires generall of the Earle of Ormond and all the Abbats Priors c. of England who had any lands should surrender up all their possessions unto the King and his successors for the same absence and neglect THE COUNTY OF LIMERICK HItherto have wee gone over the Maritime counties of Mounster two there remaine yet behind that bee in-lands Limericke and Tipperary which wee are now to goe unto The county of LIMERICK lieth behinde that of Corke Northward betweene Kerry the river Shanon and the county of Tipperary A fertile countrey and well peopled but able to shew very few places of any good account and importance The more Western part of it is called Conilagh wherein among the hills Knock-Patric that is Patricks hill mounteth up of a mighty height and yeelding a pleasant prospect into the sea beholdeth afarre off the river Shanon falling with a wide and wast mouth into the Vergivian or Ocean Under which hill a sept of Fitz-Giralds or Giraldines lived honourably a long time untill that Thomas called the Knight of the Valley or of the Glin when his gracelesse sonne that wicked firebrand suffered death for to set villages and houses a fire is by the lawes of Ireland high treason because himselfe advised his sonne and set him on to enter into these lewd actions by authority of the Parliament was disseized of his goodly and large possessions The head City of this county is Limerick which Shanon a most famous river by parting his chanell compasseth round about The Irish call it Loumeag and
times past placed the MENAPII That these Menapians came hither from the Menapii a nation in low Germany that dwelt by the sea coasts the name doth after a sort imply But whether that Carausius were of this or that nation who taking upon him the imperiall purple robe seized upon Britaine against the Emperour Dioclesian I leave to others For Aurelius Victor calleth him a Citizen of Menapia and the Citie Menapia is place by the Geographers not in those Low-countries of Germany but in Ireland In this county upon the river Barrow there flourished sometimes Rosse a great Citie well traded by merchants and peopled with inhabitants fensed with a wall of great compasse by Isabell daughter to the Earle Richard Strongbow and that is the only monument which now it sheweth For by reason of discord and home broiles betweene the Citizens and the religious orders it is a good while since brought in manner to nothing More East Duncannon a castle with a garrison standeth over the river so as that it is able to command the river that no ships should passe either to Waterford or to Rosse and therefore it was thought good policie to fortifie this place when the Spaniards hovered and gaped for Ireland in the yeere 1588. From thence at the very mouth of the river there runneth out a narrow necke of land which presenteth unto the sailers an high Turret erected by the Citizens of Rosse when they were in flourishing estate that they might more safely enter into the rivers mouth A little from hence standeth Tintern upon the shore with many winding creekes where William Mareschal Earle of Penbroch founded a notable Abbay and called it de Voto for that he had vowed to God to erect an Abbay when hee was tossed in a sore and dangerous tempest and being after shipwracke cast up a land in this place performed it here according to his vow This very Promontory Ptolomee calleth HIERON that is Holy and in the same signification I would make no doubt but the inhabitants also called it For the utmost towne thereof at which the Englishmen landed and set first foot in this Iland they named in their native language Banna which soundeth all one with Holy From this Holy point the shore turning full upon the East runneth forth along Northward over against which there lye flats and shallowes in the sea that indanger many a ship which the Mariners call The Grounds In this place Ptolomee setteth the river MODONA and at the mouth thereof the city MENAPIA which are so stript out of their names that I am out of all hope in so great darknesse to discover any twy-light of the truth But seeing there is one onely river that voideth it selfe in this place which cutteth this county as it were just in the mids and is now called Slane seeing also at the very mouth thereof where it maketh a Poole there is a towne by a German name called Weisford the head place of the whole county I may the more boldly conjecture that Slane was that MODONA and Weisford MENAPIA and so much the rather because this name is of a later date to wit a meere German and given unto it by those Germans whom the Irish tearme Oustmans This towne is for the bignesse inferiour to many but as memorable as any because it was the first in all Ireland that when Fitz-Stephen a most valiant Captaine assaulted it yeelded it selfe unto the protection of the English and became a Colonie of the English Whence this whole territorie is passing well peopled with English who to this very day use the ancient Englishmens apparell and their language yet so as that they have a certaine kinde of mungrell speech between English and Irish. Dermot who first drew the Englishmen over into Ireland granted this and the territorie lying to it unto Fitz-Stephen for ever who beganne a Burgh hard by at Carricke and albeit the place were strong by naturall situation yet hee helped it by art But when as the said Fitz-Stephen had surrendred up his right into the hands of King Henry the second he made it over to Richard Earle of Penbroch that he should hold it in Fee from him and the Kings of England as superiour Lords From whom by the Earles Mareschals the Valences of the Lusignian line in France and the Hastings it descended to the Greies Lords of Ruthin who commonly in ancient Charters are named Lords of Weisford although in the reigne of King Henry the sixth Iohn Talbot is once called in the Records Earle of Shrewsbury and of Weisford Touching this river take with you this verse such an one as it is of Nechams making Ditat Eniscortum flumen quod Slana vocatur Hunc cernit Weisford se sociare sibi The river which is called Slane enricheth Eniscort And this said river Weisford sees gladly with him to sort For Eniscourt a Burrough or incorporate Towne is seated upon it More inward by the same rivers side ye have Fernes known onely for the dignity of an Episcopall See in it which in old time the Giraldines fortified with a Castle Hard by but beyond the river Slane dwell the Cavenaghs Donels Montaghs O-Mores Irishmen of a stirring and tumultuous spirit and among them the Sinottes Roches and Peppards Englishmen On this side Slane the men of greatest name bee the Vicounts Mont-Garret of whom the first was Richard Butler a younger son of Pierce Earle of Ormond adorned with that title by Edward the sixth and many more of the same sirname the Devereuxes Staffords Chevers Whites Forlongs Fitz-Harris Browns Hores Haies Cods Maylers all of the English race and blood like as be most of the common people CAUCI THe CAUCI who were likewise a people inhabiting the sea coast of Germany seated themselves next unto the Menapii but not so farre distant a sunder as those in Germany Their country lying upon the sea was that which the O Tools and O Birns families of Irishry dwel in men fed and maintained by wickednesse and bloodshed impatient of rest and quietnesse and who presuming upon the strength of their holds and fastnesses carry an obstinate minde against all lawes and implacable hatred to English For the repressing of whose audacious outrage and to strengthen the authority of lawes there hath been serious consultation had by most prudent and politicke persons in the yeere 1578. that these small territories should be reduced into the forme of a county and set out they were into sixe Baronies within certain appointed limits which should make the county of Wicklo or Arcklo For a place this is of greatest name and the Earle of Ormonds castle who write themselves among other honourable titles in their stile Lords of Arcklo under which castle that river which Ptolomee calleth OVOCA falleth into the sea making a creeke and as Giraldus Cambrensis writeth The nature of this river is such that as well when the sea floweth as when it ebbeth in this
Harald begat a sonne named Auloed Auloed begat another Auloed he had a sonne named Sitric King of Develin Sitric he begat Auloed whose daughter Racwella was mother to Gryffith Ap Cynan borne at Dublin whiles Tirlough reigned in Ireland But this is extravagant Develin at length when the English first arrived in Ireland yeelded unto their valour and by them was manfully defended when Ausculph Prince of the Dublinians and afterwards Gottred King of the Isles fiercely on every side assaulted it within a while after a Colony of Bristow-men was deduced hither unto whom King Henry the second granted this City happely at that time dispeopled for to inhabite with all the Franchises and free Customes which the men of Bristow have and that by those very words which I have alledged Since which time it hath flourished every day more and more and in many tumultuous times and hard streights given notable proofe of most faithfull loyaltie to the Crowne of England This is the roiall City and seat of Ireland a famous towne for Merchandize the chiefe Court of Justice in munition strong in buildings gorgeous in Citizens populous An old writer calleth it a City in regard of the people noble of the site most pleasant by reason of the sea and river meeting together rich and plentifull in fish for trafficke famous for the green plain delightfull and lovely beset with woods of mast-bearing trees environed about with Parkes harbouring Deere And William of Newborrow of it writeth thus Divelin a maritime citie is the mother citie of all Ireland having to it a haven passing well frequented for trafficke and entercourse of Merchants matchable with our London Seated it is in a right delectable and wholsome place for to the South yee have hils mounting up aloft Westward an open champion ground and on the East the sea at hand and in sight the river Liffy running downe at North-East affordeth a safe rode and harbour for ships By the river side are certain wharfes or Kaies as we terme them whereby the violent force of the water might be restrained For this verbe Caiare in old writers signified to Keep in to restrain and represse which that most learned Scaliger hath well noted A very strong wall of rough building stone reacheth hence along by the sides of it and the same toward the South fortified also with rampires which openeth at six gates from whence there runne forth suburbs of a great length Toward the East is Dammes gate and hard by standeth the Kings castle on high most strongly fensed with ditches towers and an Armory or Store-house built by Henry Loundres the Archbishop about the yeere 1220. In the East suburbs neere unto Saint Andrew the Apostles Church Henry the second King of England as Hoveden reporteth caused a roiall palace or rather a banqueting house to be erected for himselfe framed with wonderfull workmanship most artificially of smoothed watles after the manner of this country wherein himselfe with the Kings and Princes of Ireland kept a solemne feast upon Christmas day From hence is to bee seene just over against it a beautifull Colledge in which place there stood in old time the Monasterie of All-Hallowes consecrated unto the name of the holy and indivisible Trinity which for the exercise and polishing of good wits with good literature Queene Elizabeth of most happy memory endowed with the priviledges of an University and being furnished of late with a notable Library giveth no small hope that both religion and all the exquisite and liberall sciences will return eftsoones after their long exile to Ireland as to their ancient home unto which as unto a Mart of Arts and good learning strangers sometime used to flocke and repaire And verily in the reigne of Edward the Second Alexander Bicknor Archbishop of Divelin began to recall the profession of learning hither having obtained from the Pope the priviledges of an University and erected also publike Lectures but the troublesome times that presently ensued interrupted the laudable enterprise of that good man The North gate openeth at the bridge built with arched work of new hewen stone by King John and this joineth Oustmantowne to the City For here the Oustmans who came over as Giraldus writeth out of Norway and the parts of the Northren Islands planted themselves as the Annales beare record about the yeere of salvation 1050. In this suburbe stood in times past the goodly Church of Saint Maries of Oustmanby for so in a Charter of King John it is called an house also founded for preaching Friers called of them Black Friers unto which of late daies have beene translated the Judiciall Courts of the kingdome In the South quarter of the City stand two gates Ormonds gate and Newgate which is their common house of correction These lead unto the longest suburbe of all called Saint Thomas street and a magnificent Abbey of the same name called Thomas Court founded and endowed in times past with very ample revenues by King Henry the second for the expiation of the murder of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury Into the South openeth Pauls gate and that which taketh the name of Saint Nicolas making way into Saint Patrickes suburbe wherein standeth the Archbishops Palace knowne by the name of Saint Sepulchres and a most stately Church dedicated unto Saint Patricke right goodly to bee seene with faire embowed workes stone pavements an arched roofe over head of stone worke and a very high tower steeple What time this Church was first built it is to say truth uncertaine That Gregorie King of the Scots came unto it about the yeere 890. the Scottish Historie doth record The same afterward being much enlarged by John King of England was ordained first to be a Church of Prebends by Iohn Comyn Archbishop of Dublin in the yeere 1191. and Pope Celestine the third confirmed the same Then after him Henry Loundres his successour in the Archbishopricke augmented it with dignities of Personages for I may be bold to use here the founders words and framed it conformable to the immunities orders and approved customes of the Church of Salisbury But in our daies it maintaineth a Deane a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Arch-Deacons and two and twenty Prebendaries The only light and lamp that I may not conceale the most ample testimony which the Parliament of the kingdome giveth unto it of all godly and Ecclesiasticall discipline and order in Ireland There is another Cathedrall Church also standing in the very heart of the City which being consecrate unto the Holy Trinity is commonly called Christs Church touching the building thereof thus we read in the ancient records of the same Church Sitric King of Dublin the sonne of Ableb Earle of Dublin gave unto the blessed Trinity and to Donatus the first Bishop of Dublin a place to found a Church in unto the holy Trinity and not onely so but gold and silver also hee bestowed sufficiently for the
albeit it is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Iland The Irish talke much that it was so called of Queen Armacha but in mine opinion it is the very same that Bede nameth Dearmach and out of the Scottish or Irish language interpreteth it The field of Okes. But it was named Drumsailich before that Saint Patricke had built there a proper faire City for site forme quantity and compasse modelled out as hee saith by the appointment and direction of Angels That Patricke I say who being a Britan borne and Saint Martins sisters sonne named at his Baptisme Sucat was sold into Ireland where he became Heardman to King Miluc afterwards was named by Saint German whose disciple hee was Magonius as a Nurse-Father out of a British word and by Pope Caelestine Patricius as a Father of the Citizens and by him sent over to catechize Ireland in the Christian faith which notwithstanding some had received there before as wee may gather out of an old Synodall wherein is urged the testimony of Patricke himselfe against that tonsure or shaving of Priests which had beene used before his time in Ireland whereby they were shaven onely on the fore part of the head and not on the Crowne Which manner of shaving he seemeth by way of contempt to father upon a certaine Swineherd of King Lagerius the sonne of Nell and the writers of that age cried out that it was Simon Magus his shaving and not S. Peters In this place about the yeere of our salvation 610. Columbane built a most famous Monastery out of which very many Monasteries afterwards were propagated by his disciples both in Britain and in Ireland Of this Armach S. Bernard thus writeth In honour of S. Patrick the Apostle of Ireland who here by his life time ruled and after death rested it is the Archiepiscopall seat and Metropolitan City of all Ireland and of so venerable estimation in old time that not only Bishops and Priests but Kings also and Princes in generall were subject to the Metropolitane thereof in all obedience and he alone governed them all But through the divellish ambition of some mighty Potentates there was taken up a very bad custome that this holy See should be obtained and held in hereditary succession neither suffered they any to be Bishops but such as were of their owne Clan Tribe and Family Neither prevailed this execrable succession a little but continued this wicked manner for the space well neere of fifteen generations When in processe of time the Ecclesiasticall discipline in this Iland was growne loose so as in townes and cities there were translations and plurality of Bishops according to the will and pleasure of the Metropolitane for reformation of this abuse Iohn Papyrio a Cardinall was sent hither from Pope Eugenius the fourth as a namelesse writer then living wrote in these words In the yeere of our Lord 1142. Iohn Papyrio a Cardinall sent from Eugenius the fourth Bishop of Rome together with Christian Bishop of Lismore Legate of all Ireland came into Ireland The same Christian held a solemne Counsell in Mell at which were present all the Bishops Abbats Kings Dukes and Elders of Ireland By whose consent there were established foure Archbishopricks namely of Armach of Dublin of Cassile and Toam Wherein sate and ruled at the same time Gelasius Gregorius Donatus and Edanus and so the Cardinall bestowing his blessing upon the Clergie returned to Rome For before that time the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishops of Canterbury in regard of the Primacy which they had in Ireland This did the Citizens of Dublin acknowledge when they sent Gregory elect Bishop of Dublin unto Ralph Archbishop of Canterbury for to be consecrated by these words Antecessorum vestrorum Magisterio c. that is Unto the Magistracy of your Predecessors we willingly submitted our Prelats from which we remember that our Prelats have received their dignity Ecclesiasticall c. which appeareth for certain out of letters also bearing date of greater antiquity namely of Murchertach King of Ireland written unto Anselm Archbishop of Canterbury for the ordaining and enstalling of the Bishops of Dublin and of Waterford likewise of King Gothrich unto Lanfrank his predecessor in the behalfe of one Patrick a Bishop of Lanfrank also unto Therdeluac a King of Ireland unto whom he complaineth That the Irishmen forsake and leave at their pleasure their wedded wives without any canonicall cause and match with any others even such as be neere of kinne either to themselves or the said forsaken wives and if another man with like wickednesse hath cast off any wife her also rashly and hand over head they joine with by law of marriage or fornication rather an abuse worthy to be punished With which vices if this nation had not bin corrupted even unto these daies of ours both the right of lineall succession among them had been more certain and as well the gentry as the communalty had not embrued themselves so wickedly with the effusion of so much blood of their owne kinred about their inheritances and legitimation neither had they become so infamous in these respects among forraine nations But these matters are exorbitant of themselves and from my purpose Long had not that Archiepiscopall dignity and Primacy beene established when Vivian the Popes Legate confirmed the same againe so that their opinion may seeme to be worthy of discredit and refutation who affirme that the Archbishop of Armach had in regard of antiquity the priority and superiour place of the Archbishop of Canterbury in the Generall or Oecumenicall Councells whereas by the first institution hee is by many ages the latter Neither according to the antiquitie of places are the seats in Councels appointed But all Prelates of what degree soever they be sit among their Colleagues according to their owne ordination enstalling and promotion What time as that Vivian was Legate in Ireland Sir Iohn Curcy subdued Armach and made it subject to the English and yet did he no harme then but is reported to have beene very good and bountifull unto the Churchmen that served God there and he re-edified their Church which in our memory was fired and foulely defaced by the rebell Shan O Neale and the city withall so that they lost all the ancient beauty and glory and nothing remaineth at this day but very few small watled cottages with the ruinous walls of the Monastery Priory and Primates palace Among the Archbishops of this place there goes the greatest fame and name of S. Malachy the first that prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland a man in his time learned and devout and who tooke no lesse of the native barbarousnesse of that country than sea fishes saltnesse of the seas as saith S. Bernard who wrote his life at large also Richard Fitz-Ralfe commonly called Armachanus is of famous memory who turned the edge of his stile about the yeere 1355. against
meane Banchor Out of whether of these twaine that Arch-hereticke Pelagius came it is uncertaine whiles some will needs have him to spring from hence others from that in Britaine but neither of them grounding upon any certaine warrant of authority Howbeit certaine it is that he was of Britaine as may appeare by other testimonies as also by this distichon of Prosper Aquitanus inveying against his impiety I procul insana impietaâ— artesque malignas Aufer authorem comitare exclusa Britannum Avaunt far hence impiety and lewd Arts take with thee Once gone with British sire of thine keep alwaies company But touching this place heare what S. Bernard saith A rich and mighty man gave a place called B anchor unto Malachy to build or rather to re-edifie there a Monastery It had been ywis a most noble house before time under the first founder and father Congel breeding many thousand Monkes and the head likewise of many Monasteries A holy place in truth and a breeder of many Saints most plenteously fructifying unto God so that one of the sons of that holy congregation named Luan is reported to have been the founder of an hundred Monasteries Which I have beene more willing to relate that by this one the reader may give a ghesse what a mighty multitude there was beside Thus at length the sprouts thereof replenished Ireland and Scotland From out of which S. Columbane comming up to these parts of ours here in France built the Monastery of Luxovium which grew to a mighty multitude And so great an Abbey by report this was that the solemnity of divine service held out continually in one quire after another so that there was not one moment of time night or day without singing praises Take all this to be spoken of the ancient glory of Banchor Monastery Malachia both in regard of the noble name that it bare and of the ancient dignity especially liked this place although it was destroied as minding to replant it like unto a certain garden or Paradise as also because many bodies of Saints slept there For to say nothing of those that were buried in peace it is reported that 900. in one day were slaine by Pirats Verily the possessions belonging to that place were great But Malachias contenting himselfe only with the site of the holy place surrendred the possessions and lands wholly to another for from the time that the Monastery was destroied there wanted not one to hold it with the livings thereto belonging For they were ordained by election also and called Abbats keeping still in name thought it were not so in deed as it had been in old time And when many gave advice not to alienate the possessions but to retaine the whole together unto themselves this professor of poverty agreed not thereto but caused according to the custome one to bee chosen for to hold the same reserving onely to himselfe and his the place as I have before said Moreover within a few dates there was the Oratory or Church finished of timber peeces made smooth but fitly and firmely knit together a Scottish kind of work faire and beautifull enough Afterwards Malachy thought it good to have a Church built of stone proportioned like to those which he had seene built in other countries And when hee had begun to lay the foundation the native inhabitants of the countrey began to make a wonder thereat because there were not found in that land as yet such maner of buildings and thereupon one cried out O good Sir what meane you to bring in this new fashion into our countries Scots we are and not French What vanity is this what need was there of such worke so superfluous so proud and so glorious More inward hard by the Lake is the Bishops See of Conereth or Coner where sat the said Malachy as Bishop But what manner of flock this so holy a Pastor fed listen unto S. Bernard Malachy in the thirtieth yeere almost of his age was brought in and presented a consecrated Bishop of Conereth for this was the cities name Now when as he began to execute his function according to his office then perceived this man of God that it was his lot to come not unto men but unto beasts No where had he to that time experience of such in the most barbarous parts that ever he came unto No where had he found for manners so froward for rites so divellish for faith so impious for lawes so barbarous for discipline so stiffe necked and for life so filthy Christians they were in name and Pagans in deed Tithes and first fruits they gave none lawfull marriage they contracted none confessions they made none to crave or to give pennance there could be found just none And Ministers of the Altar there were very few or none But what needs many words where the very paucity and fewnesse among the lay Persons was in maner idle and imploied about nothing no fruit was to be expected by their duties and functions among so leud a people For in the Churches there was heard neither voice of Preacher nor sound of singing What should the Lords champion doe in this case either hee must yeeld with shame or bicker in jeopardy But he who acknowledged himselfe to be a Shepherd and not an hireling chose rather to stand to it than to flye ready to give his life for his sheep if it so behoved And albeit they were all wolves and no sheepe in the midst of wolves he stood as a fearlesse Shepherd by all meanes casting about how to make of wolves sheepe Thus wrote Saint Bernard and little better can he that is Bishop there at this day say as I heare of his wilde flocke hereabout This Ardes the Savages an English family in times past held in possession amongst whom there goeth a great name of him who said no lesse stoutly than pleasantly when he was moved to build a castle for his defence That he would not trust to a castle of stones but rather to a castle of bones meaning thereby his owne bodie Afterward the O-Neals wrested it out of their hands who being attainted of high treason by permission of Queene Elizabeth Sir Thomas Smith Knight and the Queenes Secretary planted a Colonie there not long since a worthy adventure but it sped unhappily For after great expences defraied the Irish by a traine caught his base sonne whom hee had made Captaine and ruler thereof and cruelly cast him to hungry dogges for which barbarous cruelty those most wicked wretches suffered afterward most grievous punishment accordingly being killed and given unto Wolves to bee devoured Above Ardes Westward the more Southerne Clan-boy that is the Yellow Nation or Sept or the kinred of Hugh the Yellow a country very full of woods reacheth as farre as to the bay of Knock-fergus inhabited by the Sept of the O-Neales and is counted the farthest territorie of this county of Downe THE COUNTY OF ANTRIM THE
certaine number of cowes and hawkes yeerely c. THE COUNTIE OF COLRAN BEyond the Glynnes West standeth Krine which now they call the county COLRAN of the principall towne therein It lieth between the river Ban and Lough-foile and confineth South upon the county of Tir-Oen This Ban a passing faire river as Giraldus saith which the name also witnesseth rising out of the mountaines of Mourn in the county of Downe carrieth himselfe and his name into Lough Eaugh or Lough-Sidney a large Lake which name for all that after thirty miles or thereabout for of so great length that Lake is esteemed to be at his going forth in the end he resumeth againe at Tome castle and being beset and shadowed along the sides with woods by Glancolkein where by reason of thick woods and unpassable bogges there is the safest place of refuge for the Scottish Ilanders and the rebels and which the English felt who pursued Surley Boy whiles hee lurked here carrying a proud streame entreth into the sea breeding Salmons in abundance above any other river in all Europe because as some think it passeth all the rest for cleerenesse in the which kinde of water Salmons take speciall delight In this part the O Cahans were of greatest authoritie the principall person of which family O Cahan is thought to be one of the greatest of those Potentates or Uraights as they terme them that ought service unto O Neal the Tyrant of Ulster as who in that barbarous election of O Neal which with as barbarous ceremonies is solemnized in the open aire upon an high hill performeth this honourable service forsooth as to fling a shooe over the head of the elected O Neal. Howbeit he is not of power sufficient to restrain the Scottish Ilanders who to save charges at home every yeere in Summer time flocke hither out of those hungry and barren Ilands where is nothing but beggery to get their living ready upon every occasion and opportunity to maintain rebellions insomuch as provided it hath been by law under paine of high treason that no person call them into Ireland nor give them lodging or entertainment But this county with other confining is escheated to the King who gratiously purposing a civill plantation of those unreformed and waste parts is pleased to distribute the said lands to his civill subjects and the city of London hath undertaken to plant Colonies here THE COUNTIE OF TIR-OEN BEneath Colran lieth Southward the county of TIR-OEN in old books named also Tir-Eogain that is if a man interpret it The land of Eugenius which name the Irish have contracted into Eogain and Oen. This is altogether upland from the sea divided towards the sunnes setting by the river Liffer from Tir-Conell toward the rising with the Logh Eaugh from the county of Antrim and Southward with the Blackwater which in Irish they call Aven More that is The great water from the county of Armagh A country though rough and rugged yet fruitfull and very large as which lieth out threescore miles in length and thirty in bredth divided by the mountaines called Sliew Gallen into the Upper Tir-Oen Northward and the Nether Southward In it are first Cloghar a Bishopricke and that a slender one then Dunganon the chiefe habitation of the Earles which through the favour of King Henry the eighth gave the title of Baron unto Matthew sonne to the first Earle of Tir-Oen And verily this is an house fairer built than commonly they bee in this county but hath beene oftentimes by the Lords themselves defaced with fire because it should not be burnt by the enemy also Ublogahell where O-Neal that most proudly ruleth and oppresseth Ulster was wont to be inaugurated after that barbarous manner and tradition of the countrey and the fort at Black-water on the river More which hath sustained the variable changes and chances of warre whiles there was no other way into this countrey being the place of refuge for the rebels but now it is neglect ever since there was found another Ford more below at which on both sides of the river Charles Lord Mount-joy Deputy erected new Sconces when with hot warre hee pursued the rebels in these parts Who likewise at the same time raised another garrison for t called by his owne name Mont-joy at the Lake Eaugh Logh Sidney in honour of Henry Sidney souldiers now terme it which encloseth the West side of this shire and is made or much encreased by the river Bann as I have said Surely this is a goodly and beautifull Lake passing fishfull and very large as stretching out thirty miles or thereabout as the Poet saith Dulci mentitur Nâ—rea fluctu Fresh water though it bee A sea folke thinke they see And considering the variety of shew upon the bankes the shady groves the meadowes alwaies greene the fertile corne fields if they be well manured the bending and hanging hills and the rills running into it fashioned and shaped for pleasure and profit even by Nature her selfe who seemeth as it were to be very angry with the inhabitants there by for suffering all to grow wild and barbarous through their lazie lithernesse In the upper Tir-Oen stands Straban a Castle well knowne wherein dwelt in our daies Turlogh Leinigh of the sept of O-Neals who after the death of Shan O-Neal as I shall shew anon by election of the people attained to the dignity of O-Neal also some other Piles and fortresses of smaller reckoning the which like as else where in this Iland be no more but towers with narrow loope-holes rather than windowes unto which adjoine Hauls made of turfes and roofed over head with thatch having unto them belonging large Courts or yards fensed round about with ditches and hedges of rough bushes for defence of their cattell against Cow-stealers But if this county have any name or glory at all it is wholly from the Lords thereof who have ruled here as Kings or Tyrants rather of whom there were two Earles of Tir-Oen namely Con O-Neale and Hugh his nephew by his son Matthew But of these I will speake more at large by and by when I am to treat of the Earles and Lords of Ulster THE COUNTIE OF DONEGALL OR TIR-CONELL ALL that remaineth now behind in Ulster toward the North and South was possessed in ancient times by the ROBOGDII and VENNICNII but at this day it is called the County of DONEGALL or TIR-CONELL that is as some interpret it The land of Cornelius or as others The Land of Conall and in truth Marianus plainly nameth it Conallea The county is all in a maner champian and full of havens as bounded with the sea on the North and West sides beating upon it and dis-joined on the East from Tir-Oen with the river Liffer and from Conaght with the Lake Erne Liffer neere unto his spring head enlargeth his stream and spreadeth abroad into a Lake wherein appeareth above the water an Island and in
Sampford archbishop of Dublin In the same yeer the King of Hungary forsaking the Christian faith became an Apostata and when hee had called fraudulently as it were to a Parliament the mightier potentates of his land Miramomelius a puissant Saracene came upon them with 20000. souldiers carrying away with him the King with all the Christians there assembled on the even of Saint John Baptists day as the Christians therefore journied the weather that was cleere and faire turned to be cloudie and suddenly a tempest of haile killed many thousands of the Infidels together The Christians returned to their owne homes and the Apostata King alone went with the Saracenes The Hungarians therefore crowning his sonne King continued in the Catholike faith MCCLXXXIX Tripolis a famous citie was laied even with the ground not without much effusion of Christian blood and that by the Soldan of Babylon who commanded the images of the Saints to bee drawne and dragged at horses tailes in contempt of the name of Christ through the citie newly destroyed MCCXC Inclyta Stirps Regis Sponsis datur ordine legis In lawfull guise by hand and ring Espoused is the Kings off-spring The Lord Gilbert Clare tooke to wife the Ladie Joan a daughter of the Lord King Edward in the Abbey or Covent Church of Westminster and the marriage was solemnely celebrated in the Moneth of May and John the Duke of Brabant his sonne married Margaret the said Kings daughter also in the Church aforesaid in the moneth of July The same yeere the Lord William Vescie was made Justice of Ireland entring upon the office on Saint Martins day Item O Molaghelin King of Meth is slaine MCCXCI Gilbert Clare the sonne of Gilbert and of the Ladie Joan of Acres was borne the 11. day of May in the morning betimes Item there was an armie led into Ulster against O-Hanlon and other Princes hindering the peace by Richard Earle of Ulster and William Vescie Justice of Ireland Item the Ladie Eleanor sometime Queene of England and mother of King Edward died in the feast of St. Iohn Baptist who in the religious habite which she desired led a laudable life for the space of foure yeeres eleven moneths and sixe dayes within the Abbey of Ambresby where she was a professed Nun. Item there resounded certaine rumours in the eares of the Lord Pope Martin on the even of St. Mary Maudlen as touching the Citie Acon in the holy land which was the only refuge of the Christians namely that it was besieged by Milkador the Soldan of Babylon an infinite number of his souldiers and that it had been most fiercely assaulted about fortie daies to wit from the eighth day before the Ides of April unto the fifteene Calends of July At length the wall was plucked down by the Saracens that assaulted it and an infinite number of them entred the Citie many Christians being slaine and some for feare drowned in the sea The Patriarch also with his traine perished in the sea The King of Cypres and Otes Grandison with their companies pitifully escaped by a ship Item granted there was unto the Lord Edward King of England by the Lord Pope Martin the tenth part of all the profits of Ecclesiasticall benefices for seven yeeres in Ireland toward the reliefe of the holy land Item the eldest sonne of the Earle of Clare was borne MCCXCII Edward King of England eftsoones entred Scotland and was elected King of Scotland Lord John Balliol of Galwey obtained the whole kingdome of Scotland in right of inheritance and did homage unto the Lord Edward King of England at New-castle upon Tine on S. Stephens day Florentius Earle of Holland Robert Brus Earle of Carrick John Hastings John Comyn Patrick Dunbar John Vescie Nicolas Soules and William Roos who all of them in that kingdome submitted themselves to the judgement of the Lord King Edward Item a fifteene of all secular mens goods in Ireland was granted unto the soveraign Lord King of England the same to be collected at the feast of S. Michael Item Sir Peter Genevile Knight died Item Rice ap Meredyke was brought to York and there at horses tailes drawne c. MCCXCIII A generall and open war there was at sea against the Normans Item no small number of the Normans by fight at sea was slain by the Barons of the Ports of England and other their co-adjutors between Easter and Whitsuntide For which cause there arose war between England and France whereupon Philip King of France directed his letters of credence unto the King of England that he should make personall appearance at his Parliament to answer unto Questions which the same King would propose unto him whose mandate in this behalf being not fulfilled straightwaies the King of France declaring by the counsell of the French the King of England to be outlawed condemned him Item Gilbert Clare Earle of Glocester entred with his wife into Ireland about the feast of S. Luke MCCXCIV William Montefort in the Kings counsell holden at Westminster before the King died sodainly which William was the Dean of S. Pauls in London in whose mouth the Prelates Bishops and Cleargy putting their words which he was to utter and doubting how much the King affected and desired to have of every one of them and willing by him to be certified in whom also the King reposed most trust being returned to the King and making hast before the King to deliver expresly a speech that he had conceived became speechlesse on a sodain and fell downe to the ground and was carried forth by the Kings servants in their armes in piteous manner In regard of which sight that thus happened men strucken with feare gave out these speeches Surely this man hath beene the Agent and Procurator that the Tenths of Ecclesiasticall benefices should bee paied to the King and another author and procurer of a scrutinie made into the fold and flocke of Christ as also of a contribution granted afterward to the King crying against William Item the Citie of Burdeaux with the land of Gascoigne adjoining was occupied or held by the ministers of the King of France conditionally but unjustly and perfidiously detained by the King of France for which cause John Archbishop of Dublin and certaine other Lords of the Nobilitie were sent into Almaine to the King thereof and after they had their dispatch and answer in Tordran the Lord Archbishop being returned into England ended his life upon S. Leodegaries day The bones of which John Sampford were enterred in the Church of Saint Patrick in Dublin the tenth day before the Calends of March. The same yeere there arose debate betweene Lord William Vescy Lord Justice of Ireland for the time being and the Lord John Fitz-Thomas and the said Lord Williliam Vescy crossed the seas into England left Sir William Hay in his stead Justice of Ireland but when both of them were come before the King to fight a combat under an Appeal for treason the foresaid
there established On the East-side where it faceth the citie Constantia there is seated upon a steep rocke a most strong castle with an haughty name called Mont Orgueil which is much beholden unto King Henry the fifth who repaired it The Governour of the Isle is Captain thereof who in times past was called the Custos of the Isle and in Henry the third his reigne had a yeerely pension of 200. pound On the South side but with longer distance betweene Saint Malo is to be seene having taken that new name of Maclou a very devout man where before time it was called the city Diablintum and in the ancient Notice ALETUM for in a Manuscript of Isidor Mercator we read thus in expresse termes Civitas Diablintum c. that is the city Diablintum which by another name is called Aletum As for the inhabitants they freshly practice the feat of fishing but give their minds especially to husbandry and the women make a very gainfull trade by knitting of hose which they call Iarsey Stockes or Stockings As touching the politicke state thereof a Governour sent from the King of England is the chiefe Magistrate hee appointeth a Bailiffe who together with twelve Jurats or sworne Assistants and those chosen out of the twelve severall parishes by the voices of the Parishioners sitteth to minister justice in Civill causes in criminall matters he sitteth but with seven of the said sworne assistants and in causes of conscience to be decided by equity and reason with three Twenty miles hence North-west lieth another Iland which Antonine the Emperour in ancient time named SARNIA we at this day Garnsey lying out East and West in fashion of an harpe neither in greatnesse nor in fruitfulnesse comparable to Iersey for it hath in it only ten parishes yet is this to be preferred before it because it fostereth no venemous thing therin like as the other doth It is also better fortified by naturall fenses as being enclosed round with a set of steepe rockes among which is found that most hard and sharpe stone Smyris which we terme Emerill wherewith Goldsmiths and Lapidaries clense burnish and cut their precious stones and glaziers also divide and cleave their glasse Likewise it is of greater name for the commodiousnesse of the haven and the concourse of merchants resorting thither For in the farthest part well neere Eastward but on the South side it admitteth an haven within an hollow Bay bending inward like an halfe Moone able to receive tall ships upon which standeth Saint Peters a little towne built with a long and narrow street well stored with warlike munition and ever as any warre is toward mightily replenished with Merchants For by an ancient priviledge of the Kings of England here is alwaies a continuall truce as it were and lawfull it is for Frenchmen and others how hot soever the warre is to have repaire hither too and fro without danger and to maintain entercourse of trafficke in security The entry of the haven which is rockie is fortified on both sides with castles On the left hand there is an ancient bulwarke or block-house and on the right hand over against it standeth another called Cornet upon an high rocke and the same at every high water compassed about with the sea Which in Queene Maries daies Sir Leonard Chamberlane Governour of the Iland as also under Queene Elizabeth Sir Thomas Leighton his successour caused to bee fortified with new workes For here lieth for the most part the Governour of the Iland and the Garrison souldiers who will in no hand suffer Frenchmen and women to enter in On the North side there is La-vall a biland adjoining unto it which had belonging thereto a covent of religious persons or a Priory On the West part neere unto the sea there is a lake that taketh up a mile and halfe in compasse replenished with fish but Carpes especially which for bignesse and pleasant taste are right commendable The inhabitants are nothing so industrious in tilling of the ground as those of Iarsey but in navigation and trafficke of merchandise for a more uncertaine gaine they be very painfull Every man by himselfe loveth to husband his owne land so that the whole Iland lieth in severall and is divided by enclosures into sundry parcels which they find not onely profitable to themselves but also a matter of strength against the enemie Both Ilands smile right pleasantly upon you with much variety of greene gardens and orchards by meanes whereof they use for the most part a kinde of wine made of apples which some call Sisera and we Sydre The inhabitants in both places are by their first originall either Normans or Britans and speake French yet disdaine they to be either reputed or named French and can very well be content to be called English In both Ilands likewise they burne Uraic for their fuell or else sea-coals brought out of England and in both places they have wonderfull store of fish and the same manner of civill government These Ilands with others lying about them belonged in old time to the Dukedom of Normandy but when as Henry the first King of England had vanquished his brother Robert in the yeere of our Lord 1108. he annexed that Dukedom and these Ilands unto the kingdome of England Since which time they have continued firme in loialtie unto England even when John King of England being endited for murdering Arthur his Nephew was by a definitive sentence or arrest of confiscation deprived of his right in Normandy which he held in chiefe of the French King yea moreover when the French had seized upon these Isles hee through the faithfull affection of the people twice recovered them Neither revolted they when Henry the third King of England had for a summe of money surrendred his whole interest and right in Normandy And ever since they have with great commendation of their constancy persisted faithfull unto the Crowne of England and are the onely remaines that the Kings of England have of the ancient inheritance of William the Conquerour and of the Dutchy of Normandy although the French otherwhiles have set upon them who from the neighbour coast of France have hardly this long time endured to see them appertaine not to France but to England And verily Evan a Welsh Gentleman descended from the Princes of Wales and serving the French King surprized Garnesey in the time of King Edward the third but soone lost it And also in the reigne of King Edward the fourth as appeareth by the records of the Realme they seized upon the same but through the valour of Richard Harleston valect of the Crowne for so they termed him in those daies they were shortly disseized and the King in recompence of his valorous service gave unto him the Captainship both of the Iland and of the castle And in the yeere 1549. when England under King Edward the sixth a child was distressed with domesticall troubles Leo Strozzi Captaine of
family 450 d Bowes or Bough a worshipfull family 731 c. 737 a. why so called 732 e Bowland forest 750 b Bowtetorts a family 465 b Boxley 332 c Brachae 19 Bradenham 393. e Brance 19 Briti ibid. Bridburn a place and family 553 Bradford 244 f Bradewardin a place 6â—8 c Bradwardin the profound Doctor 618 c Bradstons Ancestors of Vicount Montacute and Barons Wentworth 364 a Braibrooke castle 1513 e Braibrookes Barons ibid. e Brackley 505 d Braibrook 329 c Brakenbake 724 e Brackenburies a family of good note 737 c Brambles 274 c Brampton 783 a Bramton 815 b Bramton Brian castle 619 c Bramish a river 815 b Bancaster 408 a Brian de Brampton 619 c Brand 568 e Brandons a family Suffolke 465 e Branspeth castle 739 Branonium 575 a Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke 470 c Brannodunum 480 a Bransford or Bensford-bridge 517 e Brasen weapons 188 Brasen nose Colledge in Oxford 383 a Brasmatias a kinde of Earthquake 620 c Bray 286 d. Lord Bray 297 b. The breach by Greenwich 328 a Nicolas Breakspeare That is Pope Adrian the forth 414 f Breakspeare a place and family 419 b Brechanius his 24. daughters all Saints 627 a Breden forest 224 a Breedon hils 577 e Breedon a village ibid. Breertons a family 608 f. their death foreshewed 609 b Breerton a place 609 Brechnockshire 627 Brechnock towne 628 a Brechnock meere ibid. Brechnock Lords ibid. Brechnock made a shire 677 e Bremenium 803 Brember castle 313 c Bremetonacum 753 c Bremicham or Bermingham a town and familie 567 Bren what it signifieth 677 Bremin what it is 33 Brennus 677 Brennus a renowmed King 33 Bretenham 463 b Breton a river ibid. Brent a river 421 Brent See Falkes de Brent Brentmarsh 230 e Brentford 421 Brentwood 442 a Brentwell or Brounswell 421 Broses Barons 113 c. 201 f Breoses a family 553 d Will. de Breos or Braus a strong Rebell 629 b Breoses Lords of Brechnock 623 Bretons a family 556 b Bretts 128 f Breusais 138 f Brian who so called 117 Bridlington 714 d Iohn of Bridlington ibid. Brewood 583 a Bricols 400 e Bridge Casterton 534 b Bridgford by Nottingham 548 Brig for Glansford 543 a Brigantes in Britaine rebelled 43 Brigantes 685. whereof they took name ibid. Brill for Burihill 395 b Breint Fitz Conty 282 a Brients 202 c d Brients Barons 215 d Brinlo 568 f Brienston 215 e Brimsfeild 365 f Bridgewater 225 a Earle of Bridgewater 225 c Bridkirk 768 b Briewer Baron 222 e Bristoll or Bristow a Citie 237 a the reason of the name ibid. b Bret the Primitive of the Britains 26 Brit or Brith the first name of the Britains 25 Brith what it signifieth 26 Britaine or Britannie whence it tooke name 27. why late discovered and knowne 33. mentioned by Lucretius first of any Latin writer ib. twice Schoole-Mistres to France 138 Britaine the great that is England 155 Britaine the lesse that is Scotland ibid. Britaine how divided 154.155 Britaine what names it hath 1. the site thereof 1. the forme of it ibid. why called another world 24. the division and compasse of it 2.4 Britaine hath sundry names 23 the position thereof in respect of the Heavens 4. how fruitfull and commodious 3. her first inhabitants 4. the name 5 Britaine under what signe or Planet 182 Britain portracted in womans habite 24. the Roman world 45 discovered to be an Iland 61 a province Presidial 62. How it was governed under and after Constantine the Great 62 76. how it became subject to the Romans 62. infected by Barbarians 79. brought to civilitie 63. called Romania and Romaine Ile 88 Britains ruin and downfall 107 Britaine and France whether ever conjoyned 346 a Britains came first out of Gaule 11.12 Britans in Religion language and maners agree with the Gauls 13.14.15.16.17 Britans emploied by Caesar in base services 38 Britans generally rebell 49. their grievances ibid. Britains cast off the Romans yoke 86 Britains how they may derive their descent from the Troians 88 Britans in Armorica 110 Britans of Wales and Cornewale 112.113 Britans send Embassadours to the Saxons 128 Britans retaine their ancient language 23 Britans long lived 555 b Britans painted themselves blue with wood 20 Britans maners and customes out of Iulius Caesar 29. out of Strabo ibid. out of Diodorus Siculus 29. out of Pomponius Mela ibid. out of Cernelius Tacitus 30. out of Dio Nicaus ibid. out of Herodian ibid. out of Pliny 3â— out of Solinus ibid. Britaine Burse 428 d Britannica the herbe See Scorby or Scurvigrasse Britanniciani what they were 111 Briten huis 40 Brithin a kind of drinke 5 British tongue full of Greeke words 28 British States submit to Caesar 37 British Iles mentiond by Polibius 33 Of British Perle a brestplate 38 British names import colours 26 British townes what they were 29 Britwales or Welshmen 113 Briva what it signifieth 414 Brockets knights 406 f Brocovum 762 d Broge 19 Brokes by a place 522 f. a family 523 a Brome 467 f Bromesgrave 574 â— Bromefield 677 a Wolter Bronscorn Bishop of Excester 190 Brookes a family of ancient descent 611 a Brooke L. Cobham 329 c Barons Brooke 244 c Bronholme 478 e Brougham 762 d Brotherton 695 b Sir Anthonie Browne first Vicount Montacute 482 b Sir Ant. Browne Marquesse Montacute 222 d Broughton 376 e Broughton in Hantshire 262 c Brundenels a family 514 b Bruges Baron Chandos 365 b Bruin a family 442 b Burg-morfe or Bridg-North 591 b Robert Brus the noble 500 e Baron Brus of Skelton 720 c Bruses a noble family 526 b Brutus 5. why so called 8 Bucken that is Beech trees 393 George Buck 22 d Buchonia and Buckenham 393 a Buckinghamshire 393 Buers a family 463 b Walter Buc and his race 812 b Buckingham town 396 c. Earles 397 d Buckhurst Baron 320 Buelth 627 e Bugden 497 d Bulchobaudes 79 Buldewas or Bildas 593 e Bulkley a towne and family 607 Anne Bullen or Bollen Marchianesse of Penbroch 655 e Bullen or Bollen Earle of Wiltshire 256 e Bullen or Bollogne in France the same that Gessoriacum and Bonoia 348 d Th. Bullen Earle of Wiltshire died for sorrow 257 Bulleum Silurum 627 e Bulley or Busley a noble Norman 551 a Bulverith 316 e Buly castle 76â— c Bulnesse 775 c Bumsted Helion 452 a Bungey 468 b Burdos or Burdelois 473 a Burford in Shropshire 590 f Burnt Elly 463 d Burgesses 177 Burgh under Stanemore 760 Burgh castle 468 e Burgh Clere 72 c Burgi what they were 760 f Burly a faire place 526 b Burons an ancient family Burrium 636 c S. Buriens in Cornwal 188. why so called ibid. Burnel Baron 330 c Burcester 337 b Burdet 566 c Bunbury for Boniface burry 607 Burghersh alias Burgwash 320 Bartholomew Burgwash a Baron 320 b Burghley 514 â— Burgh 727 f Burghsted 442 e Burgh or Burrow Barons 543 f Burne a Barony ibid. Burnels a family 591 f Burrowes what they are 515 e Burrow banke 452 e Burrow hill
in Huntingdon-shire 501 d Leiton 439 f Leightons a family 667 d Leicestershire 517 Leicester towne 519 d Leike a towne 587 c Lemster or Leinster 619 f Lemster Ore 620 a Lemster bread 620 Lenae 17 Leneham 331 a Leofrike Earle of Mercians 567 e Leofrike first Bishop of Excester 204 d Leofrike Lord of Brane or Burne 533 a Leoftane Abbot of S. Albanes 393 c Leolin Prince of Wales his behaviour to King Edward 363 e Lean Vaur a fabulous Giant 604 Leon Vaur what it signifieth ib. Leonell Duke of Clarence 462 d Leprosie why termed Elephantiasis 522 d. when it came first into England ibid. Lestoff 468 d Leskerd 191 Lestuthiel 190 Lettuy what it is 399 f Leuca 21 Leven a river 781 c. 782 b Leveney a river 628 c Levensand 754 f Lever Maur 67 Leventhorps a family 408 c S. Lewis King of France taken prisoner 249 e Lewis of France his pretended title to the Crowne of England 340 Lewis a towne 313 e Lewknors 312 e Ley-mouth 440 a Lhan what it signifieth 631 d Lhan Beder 657 d Lhan Badern vaur 658 a Lhan Stephen 650 c Lhan Devi Brevi 657 b Lhanthony Abbey 631 c Lhan Vais 672 e Lhan Vethlin 662 d Lhan Heron 193 Lhan Stuphadon or Launstaveton 196 c Lhein 668 b Lhewellin ap Sisil Prince of Wales 680 a Lhewellin ap Gryffith the last British Prince of Wales 670 b Lhewellin last Prince of Wales of Brittish race 624 c. slaine ib. Lhuyd his opinion concerning the name of Britain 5.24 Library in Oxford furnished 381 Lichfield 585 b. an Archiepiscopall See 585 d Lickey Hill 574 d Lid what it is 491 d Lid river 199 d. 781 f Lida towne 351 a Lid Castle 781. Liddesdale ibid. Lidgate a village 461 f Iohn Lidgate a Monke ibid. Liesnes Abbey 328 b Lievtenants in every County or Shire instituted by King Aelfred 159 Lilborne 515 c Lime river and towne 210 b Limestone great store 694 f Limits of the Roman Empire 789 e d. see Scotland Limseies a family 567 e Lime a port towne 549 e Line or flax of the best 620 a Lillinstone 396 c Lincolnshire 529 Lincoln City 538 b. whence the name is derived ibid. Lincoln Earles 544 e f Lindsey a part of Lincolne-shire 537 f Robert of Lincoln 313 d Lincolne Colledge in Oxford 381 Linstock Castle 778 a Lingeins a family 665 d Lin 480 d. why so called ibid. Old Lin 480 King Lin ibid. Linnum Episcopi ibid. Lin peris poole 668 d Lin a river 547 c Dâ— la Linde 213 f Linton or Lenton a towne 547 d Lionesse 187 Lisls a family in the Isle of Ely 494 d L'isle a family 276 a L'isle of Rougmount 490 b Listers a family 592 e Vicount L'isle 280 d Liver a river 192 Littons a family 406 e Litchfield in Hantshire 272 c Littleborough 549 e Lites Cary 224 f Littletons a family 574 d Littleton alias Westcot a learned Lawyer and a famous ibid. Livery and seisin in old time 340 The Lizard 189 Llydan what it is 111 Louder a river and family 792 Lode workes 184 Looghor 646 a Lollius Urbicus Propretor in Britain 66 Lollham bridges 512 a London 421 d London an ancient Colony 50 London called Augusta 79 80 London stone 423 a London wall ibid. c London bridge 434 a London highway from Saint Albanes turned out of Watling-street 415 b London or Londres a family 649 d Maurice de Londres or London ibid. c Lonchamps a family 532 Longford a place and family 553 d Long-Meg a stone 777 e Longvils a family 397 c Lonsdale 760 Loo a river 192 Lophamford 467 d Lora Countesse of Leicester a reclused votary 339 a Lortie the name of a family 221 d Lothbrooke the Dane 207 a Lottery used by Saxons 135 Lovain a family 444 e Lovels 374. a family 505 d Lords of Castle Cary 514 a Lovets a family 553 d Loughborough 521 d Lowland-men 126 Louth 542 c Lowy of Tunbridge 330 a Lowy of Briony ibid. Luceni in Ireland 121 Lucensii in Spaine ibid. Sir Rich. Lucy Lord Iustice of England became a Chanon 328 b Lucies a family 769 f Lucius King of Britaine 67 Lucies Knights an ancient family 564 f Luculleae certaine speares 62 Ludgate 423 c Ludham 478 d Ludlow 590 c Ludlowes a family 594 b Luffeilds 396 f Luffenham or Leffingham South and North townes 525 Lug a river 619 d Lugus what it signifieth 779 a Lullingstone a town and family 328 e Lumley Castle 742 b Lumleys Barons ibid. Lune or Lone a river 753 c Lupicinus sent into Britaine 78 Lupus Earle of Chester 611 a Lusoriae naves 811 d Luthing a lake 468 d 442 a Luthingland ibid. Luton 402 e Lutter worth 517 f. an Episcopal See 519 d Lygons a family 577 b Th. de la Lynde 213 f Lyquorice in great plenty growing 550 f Lyrpoole or Litherpoole 748 d M MAchleneth 661 b Maclesfield a towne and forest 610 b Madin-boure or Madning boure Madning money ibid. Madock falsly dealt withall by his Guardian Iohn Earle of waren 677 b Maeatae 796 d Magicke practised in Britaine 234 a Magnavills alias Mandevil 452 b. Earles of Essex 453 e Magnavil his end ibid. f Magnentius an usurper 77. called Taporus ibid. a fortunate Prince 77. killed himselfe ibid. Magnus a Dane 314 c. his monument ibid. Magoclunus a tyrant in Britain 113 Magon a god 803 d Mahel Earle of Hereford 358 f Maiden Castle 212 c Maiden Bradley 24 Maiden way 761 e Maiden-head or Maiden-Hith 286 c Maidstone 330 e Maidulph the Irish Scot 242 c Main what it signifieth 569 c Maior of London first ordeined Main Amber 188 Malcolm Can Mor King of Scots 500 c Maldon 446 e. forced by Queen Boadicia 448 Malduit or Manduit 570 Mallets a family 223 e Malliveries 700 b Malmesbury 242 b Malpas 603 e. Barons thereof ibid. Maltravers Barons 217 a Malvern hils 577 b Malveisin 814 a Mamignot 326 d Maminots Barons 332 d Mancastle 746 b Mancester 569 c Manchester 746 a Manchet the finest 420 a Manchester why so called 747 a Mandrubatius See Androgeus oppressed by Cassibilinus 37 Manduites a family 591 e Mangonells 400 d Mannours or de Maneriis a family 815 e Mannours Earles of Rutland 527 a b. 536 b Manober Castle 651 c Mansions what they were 65 Mansfield a great mercate town in Shirewood 550 b Manwarings or Memilwarings a family 608 a Sir Peter Manwood Knight 339 b Sir Roger Manwood Knight ibid. Marble quarrey 736 e Marca 18 Marden 620 d The Marches 589 b Marga what it is 536 e Margan Castle 644 e Marga 20 Margaret Countesse of Richmond 216 d Margaret Countesse of Salisbury beheaded 250 d Lord Marchers 589 c. 165 Marcley hill 620 b. moveth ibid. Marcus made Emperour in Britaine by the armies 84 Mareschall of Harlots 294 b Mareschall Earle of Penbroch why so named 655 b Mareschall Earle of Penbroch slaine at a Turnament 407 d Mary Queene of Scots her end her tombe 511 c.
Hampton or Wulver Hampton 581 e Wulpet 463 f Wyre forest 573 e X X. No British letter 97 Y YAle 676 e Yanesbury castle 245 e Yardley Hasting 509 e Yare 721 a. a river 468 d Yarmouth 476 f Yeomen 177 Yeverin 815 d Y-kil what it signifieth 714 a Yorkes wold 709 b Yorke City 701 Yorkeshire ibid. Yorke Earles and Dukes 724 e Yron Mynes and workes 306 d Ystwith 658 a Yvo Ellas 675 c Yvor Bach 642 e Z ZOuches 201 f. 202 c. whence descended 519 a Zouches of Haringworth and Ashby de la Zouch 224 e Zouch Mortimer 514 a Zouch killed in Westminster hall 519 b Zythum 20 THE NAMES OF SEVERALL Nations Cities and great Townes Rivers Promontories or Capes c. of Britaine in old time such as Caesar Tacitus Ptolemaeus Antoninus Notitia Provinciarum and other Authours have made mention of together with the later and moderne names  A  ABallaba Appleby in Westmorland 761 Abone Avington or Aventon in Glocestershire 358 Abus aestuarium Humber in Yorkshire 710 Aesica Netherby upon Eske in Cumberland 781 Ad Ansam Neere Coggeshall in Essex 449 Ad Pontem Paunton in Lincolnshire 537 Adurni Portus Ederington 313 Agelocum Little borrough upon Trent 549 Alone Whitley in Northumberland 794 Alannius flu Avon in Wiltshire 243 Alaunus flu Alne in Northumberland 813 Amboglanna Ambleside haply 760 Ancalites The Hundred of Henley 389 Amnitum vel Samnitum Insulae Isles upon the West coasts of Britaine in France 221. p. 2 Andates Lucus   Anderida Newenden in Kent 351 Angli sive Anglo-Saxones Englishmen or English-Saxons 127 Antona sive Aufona Aufon 507.508 Antivestaeum The Cape of Cornwall 187 Aquae Solis Bath in Somersetshire 233 Arbeia Ierby 769 Ariconium Kenchester neere Hereford 618 Atacoti or Attacotti  127 Atrebatii or Attrebatii Barkshire 278 Augusta See Londinum  Axelodunum Hexham in Northumberland 807  B  BAdiza Bath 233 Bannavenna or Bannaventa Weedon on the street 508 Belerium The same that Antivestaeum  Belgae Sommersetshire Wilshire and Hantshire 219 Bellisama flu Rhibell in Lancashire 749 Bennones High-Crosse 518 Bibroci The Hundred of Bray in Barkshire 289 Binovium Binchester 738 Blatum Bulgium Bulnesse in Cumberland 775 Blestium Old towne in Herefordshire 787.617 Bonium Banchor in Flitshire 602.681 Bononia Bollonge in France 349 Borcovicus Borwick in Northumberland 809 Brannodunum Brancerster in Norfolke 488 Bremenium Brampton in Northumberland 803 Brementuracum Brampton in Cumberland 783 Brementonacum Overborrow in Lancashire 753 Brigantes Yorkshire Lancashire B. of Durham Westmorland Cumberland 685 Brovonacum Brougham 762 Bullaeum Buelth in Brecknocshire 627 Burrium Uske in Monmouthshire 636  C  CAesarromagus Neere Brentwood in Essex fortè 442 Calcaria Tadcaster in Yorkeshire 696 Callena See Gallena  Camboritum Cambridge 486 Camalodunum Maldon 446 Camundolunum See Cambodunum  Cambodunum Ruins neere Aldmondbury in Yorkshire 692 Calagum See Galacum  Canonium Chensford in Essex 445 Cantum Kent 324 Cantium Promontorium The foreland of Kent 342 Cangi  231 Castra Exploratorum Burgh upon Sands 773 Castra Constantia Constance in Normandy 224 Cassii The hundred of Caishow in Hertfordshire 395 Cassiterides The Iles of Sylly 227 Caturactonium Cataricke in Yorkeshire 730 Cartieuchlani Buckingham Bedford and Hertfordshires 391 Causennae See Gausennae  Cenio flu The river by Tregeny in Cornwall 190 Ceni-magni See Iceni  Cilurnum Collerford in Northumberland 806 Clausentum South hanton 261 Clevum Glocester 360 Coccium Riblechester in Lancashire 752 Colonia Colchester in Essex 450 Candate Congleton in Cheshire 608 Concangii Baronie of Kendale 759 Condercum Chester upon the streete in the Bishopricke of Durham 742 Combretonium Brettenham in Suffolke 463 Conovius flu The river Conway in Wales 669 Conovium urbs Caer hean upon Conway in Caernarvonshire ibid. Convennos insula Convey at the Tamis mouth 441 Congavata A place upon Caudbecke in Cumberland 778 Corinium Circester or Cirencester in Glocestershire 366 Coritani Northamptonshire Leicestershire Rutlandshire Lincolnshire Nottinghamshire Darbyshire 504 Cornavii Warwickshire Worcestershire Staffordshire Shropshire and Cheshire 560 Corstopitum Morpit in Northumberland fortè 808 Cossini  833 Croco-calana Ancaster in Lincolnshire 537 Cunetio Marlborow or Kenet in Wiltshire 255 Curia Corebridge in Northumberland 808  D  DAnmonii Cornwall and Denshire 183 Danmoniorum Promontorium The Lizard in Cornwall 189 Danum Dancaster in Yorkshire 690 Delgovitia Godmundham in Yorkshire 711 Derventio Auldby upon Derwent in Yorkshire 709 Deva flu d ee in Cheshire  Devana sive Deva urbs Chester or West-chester 604 Dictum Diganwey 669 Dimetae Westwales Caermardinshire Penbrochshire and Cardiganshire 647 Dobuni sive Boduni Glocestershire and Oxfordshire 354 Dorobernia See Dorovernum  Dubris Dover 344 Dunum sinus The Creeke at Dunesby neere whitby in Yorkshire 718 Ducornovia See Corinium  Durotriges Dorsetshire 209 Dur-co-brivae Redborn 413 Durnium See Durnovaria  Durobrivae Caster neere Wandlesworth in Huntingdonshire 501 Durnovaria Dorcester 212 Durobrovae Rochester 332 Durolenum Leneham in Kent 331 Durolitum Old foord upon Lee in Essex 439 Durosiponte Gormonchester 498 Durovernum Canterbury 336  E  EBoracum Yorke 701 Epiacum Papcastle in Cumberland 768 Etoletum The Wall in Staffordshire 587 Extensio Promont Easton Nesse in Suffolke 467  F  Fretum Britannicum The streight of Callis 345  G  GAbranto vicorum portuosus sinus Sureby in Yorkshire 114 Gabrocentum Gateshead in the Bishoprick of Durham 743.818 Gallatum Whealp-Castle in Westmorland 762 Gallana Walle-wic 802 Gallena Wallingford 761 Ganganorum Promont Lheyn in Caernarvonshire 668 Garianonum Yarmouth 477 Garienis flu Y are river in Norfolk 476 Gausennnae Brig-Casterton upon Wash 534 Genunia Northwales 660 Glannoventa Upon Wentsbeck in Northumberland 812 Glessariae  220 Glevum Glocester 366 Gobannium Abergevenny 635 Gessoriacum See Bononia   H  HErculis Promont Herty point in Denshire 207 Hunnum Sevenshale in Northumberland 801  I  JAmesa See Tamesis  Iceni Suffolke Norfolke Cambridgshire and Huntingdonshire 456 Icianos Icborrow in Norfolke 482 Idumanus flu Blackewater river in Essex 448 Isannavaria See Banavenna for they seeme to be the same  Isca flu Ex river in Denshire 203 Isca Danmoniorum Excester ibid. Isca Legio Augusta Caer Lheon in Monmouthshire 636 Iscalis Ivelcester 221 Isurium Aldburge in Yorkshire 701 Jugantes whom Tacitus mentioneth I wote not who they be unlesse they were the Cantiani that is Kentishmen whom the Welsh Britans were wont in their language to call Y-Gant And yet it may seeme as probable to read Brigantes for Jugantes 688 Itium Galliae Vitsan 348 Ituna flu Eden river in Cumberland 760.776  L  LActodurum sive Lactorodum Stony-Stratford 397 Lagecium vel Legeolium Castleford neere Pontfreit 695 Legio 11. Augusta See Isca  Legio 11. Victrix See Eboracum  Legio xx Victrix See Deva  Lavatres Bowes upon Stanemore 731 Leucarum Loghor in Southwales 646 Littus Saxonicum East and South coast 325 Lemanis Limehill or lime in Kent 349 Lindum Lincolne
and the chiefe Magistrate was termed a Consul which name may intimate that it was a Roman towne But when Bishop Herbert surnamed Losenga for that he was composed of Leafing and Flattery the third Prelate that by evill meanes and Simony climbed up to this Dignity had removed his seat from hence to Norwich it fell againe to decay and as it were languished Neither could it sufficiently bee comforted for the absence of the Bishop by the Abbay of Cluniac Monkes which by his meanes was built This Abbay Hugh Bigod built out of the ground For so writeth he in the Instrument of the foundation I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry by his graunt and by the advise of Herbert Bishop of Norwich have ordained Monkes of the Order of Cluny in the Church of S. Mary which was the Episcopall seat of Thetford which I gave unto them and afterwards founded another more meete for their use without the Towne Howbeit even then the greatest part of the Citty that stood on the hithermore Banke by little and little fell to the ground the other part although it was much decayed yet one or two Ages agoe flourished with seaven Churches besides three small religious Houses whereof the one was by report erected in the memoriall of the Englishmen and Danes slaine here For hard by as our Historians doe record Edmund that most holy King a litle before his death fought Seaven houres and more with the Danes not without an horrible slaughter and afterwards gave over the battaile on even hand such was the alternative fortune of the Field that it drave both sides past their senses By Waveney the other River of those twaine that bound this Shire and runneth Eastward not farre from the Spring head thereof are seene Buckenham and Keninghall This which may seeme to have the name left unto it of the Iceni is the Seat of that most honourable Family of the Howards whose glory is so great that the envy of Bucchanan cannot empaire it As for the other so named as I take it of Beech trees which the Saxons called Bucken it is a faire and strong Castle built by William de Aubigny the Norman unto whom the Conqueror had given the place and by his heires that were successively Earles of Arundell it descended to the Tatsalls and from them by Caly and the Cliftons unto the family of the Knevets These are of an ancient house and renowned ever since Sir Iohn Knevet was Lord Chancellour of England under King Edward the Third and also honourably allied by great marriages For over and beside these of Buckenham from hence sprang those right worshipfull knights Sir Thomas Knevet Lord Knevet Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire and Sir Thomas Knevet of Ashellwell Thorpe and others This Ashellwell Thorpe is a little Towne nere adjoyning which from the Thorpes in times past of Knights degree by the Tilneis and the L. L. Bourchiers of Berners is devolved at length hereditarily unto that Sir Thomas Knevet before named As for that Buckenham aforesaid it is holden by this tenure and condition that the Lords thereof should at the Coronation of the Kings of England be the Kings Butlers that day Like as a thing that may beseeme the noting in Charleton a little neighbour village Raulph de Carleton and some one other held lands by this service namely To present an hundred Herring-Pies or Pasties when Herrings first come in unto their Soveraigne Lord the King wheresoever he be in England But this river neare to his spring runneth by and by under Disce now Dis a prety towne well knowne which King Henry the First gave frankely to Sir Richard Lucy and hee straightwayes passed it over to Walter Fitz-Robert with his Daughter of whose Posterity Robert Fitz-Walter obtained for this place the liberty of keeping Mercat at the hands of King Edward the First From thence although Waveney bee on each side beset with Townes yet there is not one amongst them that may boast of any Antiquity unlesse it bee Harleston a good Mercate and Shelton that standeth farther of both which have given surnames to the ancient Families of the Sheltons and Harlestons but before it commeth to the Sea it coupleth it selfe with the river Yare which the Britans called Guerne the Englishmen Gerne and Iere of Alder trees no doubt so termed in British wherewith it is overshadowed It ariseth out of the mids of this Countrie not farre from Gernston a little Towne that tooke name thereof and hath hard by it Hengham which had Lords descended from Iohn Marescall Nephew by the brother to William Marescall Earle of Penbroch upon whom King John bestowed it with the Lands of Hugh de Gornay a Traitour and also with the daughter and coheire of Hubert de Rhia From this Marescals it passed in revolution of time unto the Lord Morleis and from them by Lovell unto the Parkers now Lords Morley A little from hence is Sculton otherwise called Burdos or Burdelois which was held by this Tenure That the Lord thereof on the Coronation day of the Kings of England should be chiefe Lardiner Joint-neighbour to Sculton is Wood-Rising the faire seate of the Family of Southwels which received the greatest reputation and encrease from Sir Richard Southwell Privie Councellour to King Edward the Sixth and his Brother Sir Robert Master of the Rowles More Eastward is to be seene Wimundham now short Windham famous for the Albineys Earles of Arundell there enterred whose Ancestor and Progenitor William D' Albiney Butler to King Henry the First founded the Priory and gave it to the Abbay of Saint Albans for a Cell which afterward was advanced to an Abbay Upon the Steeple whereof which is of a great height William Ke◠one of the Captaines of the Norfolke Rebels in the yeare of our Lord 1549. was hanged on high Neither would it bee passed over in silence that five miles from hence standeth Attilborrough the seate of the Mortimers an ancient Family who being different from those of Wigmor bare for their Armes A Shield Or Semè de floures de Lyz Sables and founded heere a Collegiat Church where there is little now to bee seene The Inheritance of these Mortimers hath by marriage long since accrued to the Ratcliffs now Earles of Sussex to the Family of Fitz-Ralph and to Sir Ralph Bigot But returne we now to the River The said Yare holdeth not his course farre into the East before he taketh Wentsum a Riveret others call it Wentfar from the South into his streame upon which neere unto the head thereof there is a foure square Rampier at Taiesborrough containing foure and twenty Acres It may seeme to have beene a Campe place of the Romans if it be not that which in an old Chorographicall Table or Map published by Marcus Welserus is called AD TAUM Somewhat higher upon the same River stood VENTA ICENORUM the most flourishing City for a little one in times past of all this
〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and we at this day Yorke The British History reporteth that it tooke name of King Ebraâ—c the Founder yet give mee leave to deeme conjecturally without the prejudice to others that the name EB-URACUM is derived from nothing else but from the River Vre so that it soundeth as much as by Vre or along the side of Vre for even so the EBUROVICES in France were seated by the River Eure neere unto Eureux in Normandy Semblably the EB-URONES in the Netherlands neere unto the river Oure in the Dioecese of Lhuick and EB-LANA in Ireland standeth hard by the river Lefny This is the second City of England the fairest in all this Country and a singular safeguard and ornament both to all the North parts A pleasant place large and stately well fortified beautifully adorned as well with private as pulique buildings rich populous and to the greater dignity thereto it hath an Archiepiscopall See Ure which now is called Ouse flowing with a gentle streame from the North part Southward cutteth it as I said in twaine and divideth it as it were into two Cities which are conjoyned with a stone Bridge having the mightiest Arch one of them that ever I saw The West part nothing so populous is compassed in with a very faire Wall and the River together fouresquarewise and giveth entrance to those that come thither at one onely Gate named Mikel Barre as one would say The great Gate From which a long street and a broade reacheth to the very Bridge and the same streete beset with proper houses having gardens and orchards planted on the backeside on either hand and behinde them fields even hard to the Walles for exercise and disports In the South angle whereof which they and the River make betweene them I saw a Mount raised as it seemeth for some Castle to be built upon it called The old Bale which William Melton Archbishop as wee reade in the Archbishops lives strongly enclosed first with thicke planckes eighteene foote long afterward with a stone wall yet there is nothing of all that now to be seene The East side wherein the houses stand very thicke and the streetes be narrower in forme resembleth as it were a lentill and is fortified also with very strong walles and on the South-East defended with the deepe chanell of Fosse a muddy River which entring into the heart of the City by a blinde way hath a Bridge over it with houses standing upon it so close ranged one by another that any man would judge it to bee not a Bridge but a continued streete and so a little lower runneth into Ouse where at their confluence and meeting together right over against the Mount that I spake of King William the Conquerour in a very convenient place raised a most strong Castle to awe the Citizens Upon which time hath now a great while without impeachment wrought his will ever since that Englishmen fell to neglect strong Holds as receptacles for those whose hearts would not serve to fight in open field On this side also toward the North-East standeth the Cathedrall Church dedicated to Saint Peter an excellent faire Fabrique and a stately neere unto which without the Walles of the City but yet enclosed within walles and by the River flourished a renowned Abbay called Saint Maries which Alan the Third Earle of Little Britaine in Armorica and of Richmund built and endowed with rich livings but now it is converted into the Princes house and is commonly called The Manour Whence I should fetch the originall of Yorke but from the Romanes I cannot tell seeing the Britans before the Romanes comming had no other Townes than woods fensed with trenches and rampire as Caesar and Strabo unreprovable Authors doe testifie To say nothing therefore of King Ebrauk whom some men both curious and credulous as it should seeme have imagined out of the name of Eboracum for so is Yorke in Latine termed to have beene the Founder thereof most certaine it is that the Sixth Legion Victrix which Hadrian there Emperour brought out of Germany over into Britaine was placed heere in Garison And that it was a Colony of the Romanes it appeareth both by the authority of Ptolomee and Antonine and also by an ancient Inscription which I saw in a certaine Aldermans house there in these words M. VEREC DIOGENES IIIII I VIR COL EBOR. IDEMQ MORT CIVES BITURIX HAEC SIBI VIVUS FECIT As also by a peece of money coined by the Emperour Severius in the reverse whereof we reade COL EBORACUM LEG VI. VICTRIX But how it is that Victor in his History of the Caesars hath called Yorke Municipium or free towne of Britaine being as it was a Colony I require farther time to deliberate thereupon unlesse it were that the inhabitants of Yorke like as sometime the Praenestines did choose rather from a Colony to bee brought unto the state of a free-Burgh For Colonies having as Agellius writeth lawes customes and rights at the will of the people of Rome and not at their owne pleasure seemed more obnoxious and their condition not so free whereas free Cities such as in Latin are named Municipia used rights Lawes and orders of their owne and the Citizens or Burgesses thereof were partakers with the people of Rome in their honourable Offices onely and bound of necessity to nothing else No mervaile therefore if Colonies were changed into Free Burroughs But to what end stand I upon this point This difference of the name is not in the story of the Emperours so exactly observed but that one and the selfe same place is called both a Colony and a Municipium or Free City Howbeit out of that peece of money I dare not constantly affirme that Severus first conducted and planted this Colony seeing that Ptolomee and Antonine himselfe writeth it was the seat of the sixth Legion in the Antonines time But we reade that Severus had his Palace in this City and heere at the houre of death gave up his last breath with these words I entred upon a state every where troublesome and I leave it peaceable even to the Britans His body was carried forth here to the funerall fire by the souldiers after the military fashion and committed to the flames honoured with Justs and Turneaments of his souldiers and his owne sonnes in a place beneath this City Westward neere to Ackham where is to be seene a great Mount of earth raised up which as Raulph Niger hath recorded was in his time of Severus called Sivers His ashes being bestowed in a little golden pot or vessell of the Porphyrite stone were carried to Rome and shrined there in the Monument of the Antonines At which time there was in this City the Temple of Goddesse Bellona For Spartianus speaking of Severus and this very City saith thus When Severus returned and came into the City purposing to offer sacrifice he was led first of all to the