✚ ΙϹ ΧΡ ÎΙΚΗ As to their Faith concerning this Mystery I cannot take upon me to determine For it hath been a Question well handled already between two learned Men of the Roman and Reformed Churches of France viz. Monsieur Arnauld and Monsieur Claud by whom Authors have been examined with much Diligence on both sides Wherein Monsieur Claud seemeth to be victorious from their Writings and the Reports of Travellers of this last Age Though by a new Confession brought about by the Marquess de Nanteulle French Ambassador now at Constantinople who with great Zeal did prosecute that Design Monsieur Arnauld seemeth to triumph Of which the World will have an Account one day I hope from Dr. Covel who was Chaplain to the English Ambassadour Sir John Finch at the same time when that Business was acted and hath particularly informed himself about it Monsieur Arnauld perswades the World That they do believe the Real Presence and Transubstantiation Monsieur Claud affirmeth the contrary However I think it is an hard Question to determine of their present Faith and of very little consequence unless they could prove that they ever did believe Transubstantiation which will be impossible to be done as is apparent from what Monsieur Claud hath written concerning that Subject It will be very difficult to prove it their present Belief because they are so very unlearned that they hardly know the Principles of their Faith and I could not find that Transubstantiation hath been heard of except amongst those that have conversed with the Roman Church Of little consequence I say For What Argument can it be against the sure Foundations of the Reformed Churches to have prevailed upon the gross Ignorance of that poor depressed Nation by imposing those Opinions upon them as if they had been from the Beginning the Doctrines of their Church and wherein they ever agreed with that of Rome This Fruit indeed the Seminaries and Missioners from them in all places of these Parts may bring forth And it were to be wished that the Protestant Princes had been as diligent to have informed them in the Truth But it is the Fortune of the Children of Darkness to be cunninger in this World than the Children of Light I had not very frequent Opportunity to examine this Matter well but where I had I commonly did At Corfu and Zant they are most certainly of the Roman Opinion as to this although professed Enemies to the Roman Church and Pope in the points of Infallibility and Procession of the Holy Spirit At Tine they are most of the Roman Religion and the Greeks use their own Liturgies and Ceremonies but are governed by a Latine Bishop Micone hath a Greek Bishop and is subject to the Patriarch The Bishop of it then reigning came to Constantinople with us but for want of Language I had but little discourse with him But he had a Priest waiting on him that spoke Italian with whom I sometimes discoursed He talked as if he had never heard of such Doctrine much less believed that the Bread by Consecration was really changed into the Body of Christ and seemed plainly to understand a Mystical and Spiritual Sense in it At Athens I often conversed with the Arch-Bishop who was then one called Antenos He affirmed to me That he was present at Constantinople when the Patriarch signed that Writing to the Marquess of Nanteulle that he was one of that Assembly himself and that they believed according to that Writing wherein the Article of Transubstantiation is expressed by that word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 though I do not find that ever that word was known till then to the Greek Church I asked him Whether he did not understand it 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Spiritually he answered no but 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Corporally that is to say Christ was corporally in the Sacrament Whilst I was at the Convent of St Luke's by Livadia in Boeotia there happened to come thither the Bishop of Salona with whom I had frequent discourse upon that Subject He seemed desirous when I told him That I was of England to know the Faith of our Church of which when I had given him the best Account I could he told me that it was the same with theirs For I informed him That we believed the Holy Scriptures the Apostles Creed the Nicene and that of St Athanasius That our Church was governed by Bishops and arch-Arch-Bishops That our Faith was conformable to the Primitive Fathers and the first General Councils until the first five or six Centuries and in fine That we were not of the Roman Church After this I asked him their Opinion concerning the Holy Sacrament and what they held the Bread and Wine to be after Consecration he answered The Body and Blood of Christ When I asked him How that could be he gave me this Explication As the Sun is in Heaven and yet gives Light and Heat to the whole Earth so Christ although in Heaven yet was in the Sacrament by his Divine Power and Influence I told him That that was as we believed which was that Christ was in the Sacrament after a spiritual manner He said It was the same the Greek Church believed and was so obliging to me thereupon that he would needs have ordained me Priest the next day which as it is really the most honourable Employment a Christian can be capable of so amongst them it is most highly esteemed and I had much adoe to excuse my self by acknowledging my Unworthiness of so great an Honour This was the general Judgment of that whole Covent and of an Hermit that liveth about a Mile from thence in great austerity and held by them to be a Saint There was a Father who was Native of Zant but came away from thence so young that he was not imbued with their Principles there When I asked him Whether they believed that the Bread and Wine was changed into the Body and Blood of Christ he answered me Whether I thought them so much Beasts as to believe such an Absurdity The only thing they seemed most to dislike in us and our Religion was That I would not make any Reverence to the Pictures that are in their Churches which they always do when they come to their Devotions They never kneel in their Worship but bend their Bodies down to the Ground making the Sign of the Cross with their right hand first on their Head then on each side of their Breasts and then down to the Ground as they bow I believe that this Convent and the most inland Parts of Greece are yet free from that Opinion of the Roman Church and have not been tamper'd with by them I have made no other Remarks of the Turks Religion TURKS RELIGION and LEARNING but what have been already observed Mr. Watson a Scotchman who hath travelled those Parts for four or five Years together and hath perfected himself in the Turkish and Arabian Languages surprized my Companion and me with
provided with Ammunition and Artillery To the Westward of it is a large place which they call the Splanade from the middle of which beginneth a large street that runneth Westward thorough the City On the right hand in this street standeth the Cathedral Church dedicated to Saint Spiridion first Bishop of that place whose Body they are perswaded they have and there with great Veneration preserve it They attribute to him the doing a Miracle about Thirty-five years since restoring the sight to a blind man who came and prayed to him prostrating himself before his Body And of this they keep an Annual remembrance ever since which happened when we were here They make profession of the Greek Religion but are in most things Latinized except in Obedience to the Sea of Rome the Infallibility of the Pope and the Procession of the Holy Spirit They have not a Greek Bishop allowed them but there is a Latin one and a Protopappa Greek This Church is well furnished with Silver Lamps and one of Gold given by a Gentleman of Corfu who by his Will left Five thousand Cichins which amount to about Three thousand pounds sterling to buy it Here are several ingenious men and moderately learned especially Cavalier Marmero who hath writ the History of this place in Italian and hath a Collection of Medals but most of them such as concern the Antiquity of the place He derives his name from the Isle Marmero in the Propontis of which his Family were once Masters He is a person of great Worth and Honour both as to his personal Qualities and his Extraction being descended of the Family Comneno Emperours of Greece This little digression Reader I owe to this Generous Friend whose name I have reason to mention with gratitude The Protopappa or Chief Priest called Panagiotti Bulgary is but young yet Learned not only in Greek but Latin He gave us some Books of the Office used in Honour of Saint Spiridion with a relation of his Life to present to the Patriarch of Constantinople Hierassimo Machi Abbot of Palaiopolis is also a Learned man who retired hither from Candia after it was surrendred to the Turks He hath a Study of a great many M. SS amongst which are twenty never yet printed as a Commentary of Origen upon the Gospel of Saint John Saint Augustin de Trinitate Translated out of Latin into Greek one of which I bought afterwards at Athens among other Manuscripts and the Sermons of Ephrem an ancient Monk He hath printed a Dictionary Tetraglot Ancient and Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian as also a Systeme of Philosophy He hath a Nephew named Arsenio Calluti who is also Learned in Latin Greek and Divinity and is esteemed a good Preacher He Studied at Padua and is now first Pappa of the Church Panthagii or All-Saints in Palaiopoli Among his Books he shewed us a Manuscript of Saint John Damascen never yet printed as I know of and is a kind of Epitome of all his Works And another being a Commentary of Ptocho-prodromus on the Hymns of the Greek Church There are also several other Learned men there as namely Dr. Cappello young but skillful in the Civil Law and in other Gentile Learning He told us he had composed a Dictionary in Vulgar Greek Latin and Italian more ample than any yet extant The Doctors Justiniani and Lupina are likewise men of esteem there But I must not forget my good Friend Signior Spiridiani Arbeniti who hath also a little Collection of very curious Medals a great lover of Antiquity and a very civil person He received us with the greatest kindness imaginable taking the pains to shew us all things that are rare in that place Sometimes he went with us a foot and at other times when need required furnished us with his own and friends Horses and always favoured us with his good company 2. The soil of Corfu is not so fruitful as to supply the Inhabitants with Corn but they are provided from the Continent from which it is separated by a narrow Streight of four or five miles over near to Cassiopa It is nevertheless fertile in Wine and Oyl and all sorts of good Fruit. We had a present sent us of Figs Filberds and Currant-grapes then scarce ripe the Figs being a large green kind they call Fracassans having in the middle a round lump of Jelly of the bigness of a Nutmeg very delicious and refreshing in the heats of Summer Here are also abundance of Oranges and Limon-Trees I found several curious Plants in this Island among others these 1. Thymus Capitatus a very rare Plant and scarce ever seen in our Parts I have furnished our Gardens with its seed but it did not come up I judg'd it to have been Savoury until I informed my self better because in smell it resembles that rather than ordinary Thyme But is undoubtedly that which Dioscorides hath deseribed under that name of Thymus 2. Lysimachia Hysopi folio 3. Scabiosa flore nigrescente caule altissimo forsan Peregrina B. 4. Cyperus Gramineus Millearius 5. Malva trimestris 6. Scammonea 7. Polium Creticum 8. Acarna flore patulo rubente 9. Stoechas odorata 10. Centaurium majus album 11. Centaurium rubens Spicatum 12. Centaurium ramosum rubens 13. Centaurium ramosum album 14. Origanum Heraclioticum 15. Vitex flore caeruleo albo 16. Consolida regalis foetida 17. Glichyriza 18. Pulegii species erecto caule Latifolio incano vel hirsuto I. He carried us one day to see the Ruins of Paloeopoli the ancient Metropolis of the Island It stood on a Promontory to the South of the present City separated from it by a little Bay of about a mile or two over The abundance of Ruins and Foundations which are to be seen there do sufficiently demonstrate it to have been so The ground it covered is almost an Island and therefore anciently called Chersopolis It had on the South-West a good large Port for Vessels of those days but now has hardly water enough for small Shallops The mouth is narrow and was secured by a Chain the place to which it was fastened being yet to be seen There has been formerly an Aqueduct to bring fresh water to it from a Spring which we saw by a Church towards the Sea-side from whence the Water was conveyed by a Channel made thorough the Rock in Earthen-Gutters of about a yard long and an inch thick apiece curiously joyned to one another whereof great quantities are found thereabouts Besides abundance of Foundations of Temples Arches Pillars and Marble Inscriptions have been dug up here and employed to build the new Fortifications of the present City Signior Marmero in his History hath given a Plane of the old City which is now covered all over with Olive-trees and here and there an old Church standing among them the two chief that still remain are Panagia of which Pappa Ulachi is Abbot and Pantagi whereof Pappa Canuti is Rector The Portal of the first
happen there which in the Spring are some years once or twice a week and so shake all the houses that the Stone-walls of them are all full of great cracks One happened while I was there at my return from Athens during my Quarentine in the Pest-house That day it happened the Sun looked of a yellowish colour which was looked upon as ominous I was sitting leaning upon a Table when on the sudden the Earth was so prodigiously shaken that I thought the place which was but one story high would have immediately fallen on my head it gave such a crack and the Chairs Stools and Table so clashed together that they rattled again The unusualness of the thing made so deep an impression on my phansie that I hardly believed the Earth stood still so long as I staid on the Island after it But the Inhabitants are so used to them that they make little or nothing of them They profess the Greek Religion but are much Latinized in Doctrine although they extremely hate the Roman Church They are not allowed a Bishop but a Protopappa and submit themselves to the Bishop of Cephalonia There is here a Latin Bishop whom they are hardly constrained to use civilly A new one arrived while I was there and when he made his publick entry the Greek Priests were commanded to attend him to the Cathedral Church in the Fort. He was likewise attended by the several Orders of Fryers that have Convents there who sung his entry after the Latin way but were derided by the Greeks that followed them They have a great many little Churches both within and without the Town The best is that of Hagia-panda or All-Saints which is situated in the place leading to the Mole It s Pappa hath the repute of a learned man and a good Preacher He is of Candia hath a good Study of Manuscripts which he brought from thence and is called Pappa Agapito That of Saint Nicolo likewise is well furnished with the offerings of Seamen and is situated upon the Mole 2. The Church of Saint Helias lieth above the Town on the right hand of the way leading to the Cittadel It is a pretty pleasant place set round with Orange-trees and is beside remarkable for the fame of Cicero's Tomb which as some have written hath been found there with an Inscription upon it mentioning him and his Wife Tertia Antonia whereof now there remains nothing but the bottom of an Urn of Porphyry Nor could we learn what was become of the rest there being none at Zant so curious concerning the antiquity of their Country as at Corfu I. Towards the point that lieth opposite to Cephalonia is a little Greek Church called Santa Veneranda about which the English used formerly to bury their dead but since upon some dispute with the Pappa they have lately altered their place of burial it being made a mile or two off the Town at a little Church in the Plain behind the Castle At the first are several Monuments of our English Merchants who have left their Bodies there but few marks of their Religion are to be observed whether of the living or the dead in this and in several other of our Factories abroad to the great dishonour of the Reformed Religion there being none to administer comfort to their Souls by preaching the Word or administring the Sacraments to them when they are in health or in the greatest extremities of sickness and death For they have neither Church Chappel nor Priest So that they seem to the people of the place to live without Religion and to dye without hope as they really are buried without decency This is a very great scandal to those without and therefore a very great fault in those within our Church You shall no-where see a Factory of the Roman Religion but they will have one or more Priests when perhaps they are not well able to maintain themselves But ours on the contrary are rich wealthy and able to maintain many but will keep none I commend the piety of one of our Countrymen there who although he be not too great a friend to our Churches Discipline yet hath offered to pay his proportion to the maintenance of a Priest of our Church and to be his Auditor But although this be the real fault of this and such other of our Factories yet because it gives occasion of reflection upon our Church and the Excellent Religion we profess to its ignorant or malicious enemies abroad it would in my opinion be a matter highly becoming the pious Zeal of our Reverend Fathers to whom God hath committed the care of his Church to consider of some proper Expedients if any may be found to prevent such Scandals and supply the defects of this nature in Foreign Countries with whom we have any although but small Commerce 3. There was at that time indeed at Zant an Athenian called Demetrio Bernizelo who hath the reputation of the Learned'st Man amongst the Greeks He understands the ancient Greek and Latin well as also the Modern Greek and Italian hath studied Philosophy and Divinity and is permitted to preach though he be not in Orders He told us that Hieromonacho Damasceno of Athens was dead not long since whose Eloquence and Learning are much celebrated by Guilletier in his New and Old Athens to whose Romantick Pen the honest School-Master I believe was beholding since his only Talent was to teach to Write and Read which goes a great way in the Grecian Learning now-a-days This is now the chief Island from whence the Currans come whereof we make so many pleasant dishes here in England They borrowed their name from Corinth the famous City near the Isthmus of Morea and are therefore called in Latin Uvae Corinthiacae or Grapes of Corinth But none of them now grow there being perhaps neglected because they have no Vend for them the Turkish jealousie permitting no great Ships to enter into that Gulph They grow not upon Bushes like our red and white Currans as is vulgarly thought but upon Vines like other Grapes only their leaf is something bigger and the Grape much smaller than others They are also without stones and in those parts are only red or rather black But when I passed by Piacenza in Italy I saw White ones of this kind only differing in colour They grow in a most pleasant Plain behind the Castle encompassed about with Mountains and Hills which hemm in the Island This Plain is divided into Vineyards mixed with Olive Cypress-trees and Summer-houses of pleasure All which from the Castle and the Top of Monte di Scoppo make a most pleasant Prospect In August when they are ripe they are laid thin on the ground until they are dry then are they gathered together cleaned brought into the Town and put into Ware-houses they call Seraglio's into which they are powred through a hole above until the Room be filled up to the top By their own weight they cake so together that
great many Cannons the Spoils taken in their Wars from the Christians and Persians some we observed with such a vast Bore as are capable to fling Stones of near ten foot diameter Near this Point we observed several Rocks and Shelves lying but little below the Surface of the Water which must needs be very dangerous to any Vessels that either by the Wind or Current shall be drove upon them When we came to the Seven Towers we were not permitted Entrance by reason that a Knight of Malta had made his Escape thence not long before whereupon it was ordered that no Franck should enter there any more We were only permitted to go round it and all we observed was an antient Gate looking towards the Propontis adorned with Basso-relievo's on oblong Tables of white Marble On one is the Fall of Phaeton on another Hercules fighting with a Bull on another Hercules in combat with Cerberus and on another Venus coming to visit Adonis sleeping with some others we knew not what they signified This Gate is now quite stopped up and no Entrance that way Hard by over a little Gate of the City which from the Bosphorus leads to the Seven Towers we observed this Inscription with the Letters curiously joyned to each other in knots hardly to be explicated ΑÎΕΚΑΙÎΙΣΘΕ ΕΠΙ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟÎΣΤΑÎΤΙÎΟΥ ΤΩΠΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕÎÎΗΤΩΠΠΘΙΛΟΧΡΙΣΤΩΠΚΑΙ ΤΩΠΔΕΣΠΟ ΤΩΠΠΕΠΕΤΕ Κ. Φ. Κ. Α. †Which imports that the Gate was rebuilt by Basilius and Constantine Porphyrogenites Emperours in Christ the year This Place looks not strong enough for a Castle but is sufficiently so for a Prison which is the Imployment they now put it to and that only for great Men or great Malefactors like the Tower of London So soon as our Convenience would permit PATRIARCH AT BALLATA we went to wait on the Patriarch of Constantinople who was then named Parthenius to deliver him the Present of Books which we had received from the Protopappa of Corfu for him and to see in what state so great a Prelate of the Church lived and was reduced to His Palace and Church is at a quarter of the Town called Ballata which must not be mistaken for Gallata It is situated near the Western Corner of Constantinople adjoyning to the Harbour and is allotted to the Patriarch and Greek Christians We saluted him at his coming out of the Church according to the Greek Custom with low Reverence kissing his Hand or Chappelet first putting it to the Mouth and then to the Fore-head His usual Habit differeth not from the ordinary Caloyers or Monks of the Order of St Basil out of which the Bishops and Patriarchs are chosen it being a black serge Cassock or Vest down to the ground a black Cap with a black Cypress or curled Scarf wound about it as the other Bishops and Egoumeno's or Abbots often do wear He liveth but obscurely his Palace being no better than the worser sort of our Parsonage Houses The Patriarchal Church is but a small obscure Edifice without any great Ornament or Beauty For the Greek Church is trampled upon here as well as in all other the Turkish Dominions They keep in it part of the Pillar they say our Saviour was tied to when scourged by Pontius Pilate The Patriarchs depend on the Grand Signior both as to their Spiritual and Civil Jurisdiction For they are likewise Judges in Civil Matters between Christian and Christian They buy this Dignity dear and possess it with great hazard Yet so ambitious are the Greek Clergy of it that the Bishops are always buying it over one anothers Heads from the Grand Vizier who desires no better Sport than to see them strive who shall bring most Grists to his Mill. They purchase this Dignity with very great Sums of Money which are again to be pressed out of the poor Greek Christians and when obtained it is no longer secured to them than till the Ambition of another Bishop offers more for it or impeacheth this Incumbent with Crimes sufficient for a Pretext to dispossess him Which the Vizier greedily catcheth at right or wrong to the Ruin of the present Possessor Yet the Bishops are still canvasing for it insomuch that in the space of five Years they had changed the Patriarch five times some of them being executed and others having made their Escape of whom I saw one at Zant and another they say is at Smyrna The Authority which they thus obtain by Simony they maintain by Tyranny For as soon as they are promoted they send to all their Bishops to contribute to the Sum they have disbursed for their Preferment and such as deny they depose and send others to their Charge Again the Bishops send to their inferiour Clergy who are forced to do the same to the poor People or to spare it out of their Wives and Childrens Mouths But many times they engage for more than they can perform and bring the Church so much in debt to the Turk that its Ruin is daily threatned thereby which without God's great Mercy uphold it cannot long subsist I was informed that Patriarch Parthenius was then owing fifty Purses of Dollers each Purse containing five hundred which amounteth to twenty five thousand making in English Money about six thousand pound which to raise in the great Poverty that Church is in will be a greater difficulty to him than it was to be made Patriarch We had but a short Conference with his All holiness which is the Title they give him in Discourse viz. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 As to their ordinary Bishops they say 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your All-priestship or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your Beatitude and to every inferiour Priest 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 your Holiness c. We desired to see his Library hoping to find many good Manuscripts in it But he informed us That he had but few or no Books at all though in a Paper-shop hard by his Door we bought about twenty or thirty antient Greek Manuscripts of which I may perhaps at some other time give the World an Account It would be pertinent in this Place to give some short View of the State and Religion of this Church But that Subject having been so amply and ingenuously handled by Mr. Smith and Mr. Ricaut I shall only at present make some Remarks on their Opinion of the Eucharist which has been so much and long controverted between late Writers of the Romish and Protestant Church and that I shall do with the same Sincerity and Frankness as I had my Informations from Bishops Caloyers and other Religious Men of that Communion with whom I conversed in several places of my Journey The Eucharist or Holy Communion is the Sacrament in which they shew most of their Devotion it being the chiefest Part of their Religious Worship wherein they express the whole Mystery of the Gospel as the Death Passion Resurrection and Ascension of Jesus Christ into Heaven Lib II. Fig VIII
who resisting their fair Words they began to use violence which she finding suddenly snatched a Ponyard from the side of one of them and stabbed him to the Heart which the rest perceiving fled But the Maid not yet satisfied for the Dishonour done her went and complained to the Caddi who finding it done in a drunken Fit had the rest well bastinadoed For this Disgrace our Janizary went presently to revenge himself on the poor Wine they had so abused and knockt out all the heads of his Vessels making a solemn Vow That he would never drink Wine more Here we were alarm'd with the Noise of the Chacals an Animal of the bigness of a Fox which are here in great numbers Once in an hour they would begin to howl and as soon as one began the whole Plain round about was filled with the Noise of them Next Morning we went to Sedjaqui to dinner which is a Village SEDJAQUI consisting of Merchants Country-Houses adorn'd with Gardens and Orchards to which they come to take the fresh Air and to course and hunt with their Grey-Hounds and Beagles of which they always keep a good Pack Here we were kindly entertain'd at Dr Pickering's House and return'd the same Evening to Smyrna We had a great desire to have seen many other Places in these Parts especially the rest of the Seven Churches mentioned in the Apocalypse But the time of the Year being past for such Expeditions the great Rains beginning to fall and the Waters being up in most of the Plains besides other Risques we were to expect we contented our selves with the Information we received of the Consul and other ingenious Merchants there who had made those Journeys and very freely let us partake of the Pleasure of their Travels without the Pains But pardon me O Heavens Do I call that Pleasure which is a Subject fit only for a Jeremiah to lament over He saw the Abomination of Desolation that was to come upon the Earth and wished that his Eyes were Fountains of Tears to weep day and night the Destruction of the Daughter of Sion With what satisfaction or content can I then invite you to come and see what Destruction the Lord hath here brought upon the Earth But it is the Lord 's doing and thence we may reap no small Advantage by considering how Just He is in all His Judgments and Faithful in all His Promises Consider we then what He who has the sharp Sword with two Edges hath pronounced against the Church of Pergamus PERGAMUS viz. That He knew their Works and where they dwelled even where the Seat of Satan is He commends them for Holding fast His Name and not Denying the Faith even when Antipas His Faithful Martyr was slain But they had those among them that taught them to Eat things offered to Idols and to commit Fornication They had those that held the Doctrine of the Nicolaites hated by Him Of all which he exhorteth them to repent otherwise He would come quickly and fight against them with the Sword of His Mouth This Church now is reduced to a very low condition There is not in the whole Town above a dozen or fifteen Families of miserable Christians that till the Ground to gain their Bread They have but one Church left dedicated to St Theodorus Bishop of Smyrna under which Bishoprick they are reduced Their own Cathedral Church which was Fifty six Paces long and Thirty two broad and stood in the heart of the City is buried in its own Ruins their Angel or Bishop remov'd and its fair Pillars adorn the Graves and rotten Carkasses of its Destroyers the Turks who are esteemed about Two or three thousand Souls in number It s other fine Church called Santa Sophia turned into a Mosque and daily prophaned with the Blasphemies of the False Prophet This Place yet preserves its antient Name PERGAMO being now called Pergamo and is situated in a fair and fruitful Plain in Corn and Pasture watered with the Cetius and Caicus This passeth by it within a Mile of it and then they go together to joyn with the Hermus It lies on the South-side of a Mountain that bounds the Plain on the North and hath the rapid Stream Selinus running by the City to the rest of its Company It is a dozen Miles from the Sea where it hath a Harbour about fifteen Hours riding from Smyrna and from Thyatira almost North-East a day and half 's Journey It was in times past adorned with a Theater the Remains of it are yet to be seen and a beautiful Palace the Residence of their Kings Attalus and Eumenes often mentioned in the Roman History It had a Castle on the top of the Hill now neglected where among some Ruins of Marble is a curious antient Inscription dedicated by the Senate and People of Pergamus to the Honour of Gaius Antius c. who had been twice Consul and Proconsul of Asia besides many other Chief Offices of several particular Provinces of that and other Places as Candia and Cyprus Eparch of Syria under the Emperour Trajanus and a great Benefactour to this Place as followeth ΓΑΙΟΠΑÎΤΙΟΠΑΥΛΟΠΤΟΥΛΛΙΟΠΑΥΛΟΥ ΥΙΟΠΚΟΥΑΔΡΑΤΟΠΔΙΣ ΥΠΑΤΟΠΑÎΘΥ ΠΑΤΟΠΑΣΙΑΣ ΣΕΠΤΕΜΟΥ ΙΡΟΥΠΕ ΠΟΥΛΩÎΟΣ ΦΡΑΤΡΙΜ ΑΡΟΥΑΛΕΠΒΡΕΒΕΥΤΗΠΚΑΙ ΑÎΤΙΣΤΡΑΤΗΓΟΠΒΕΙΘΥÎΙΑΣ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΠΑΣΙΑΣ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΠΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΠΕΠΑΡΧΙΑΣ ΚΑΠΠΑΔΟΚΙΑΣ ΑÎΘΥΠΑΤΟΠΚΡΗΤΗΣ ΚΥΠΡΟΥ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΠΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΠΣΤΡΑΤΗΓΟΠΛΥΚΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΜΦΙΛΙΑΣ ΠΡΕΣΒΕΥΤΗΠΚΑΙ ΑÎΤΙΣΤΡΑΤΗΓΟΠΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ÎΕΡΟΥΑΣ ΤΡΑΙΑÎΟΥ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ ΓΕΡΜΑÎΙΚΟΥ ΔΑΚΙΚΟΥ ΕΠΑΡΧΙΑΣ ΣΥΡΙΑΣ Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΩΠΠΡΩΤΩΠÎΕΟΚΩΡΩΠΠΕΡΓΑΜΗÎΩΠΤΟΠΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗΠΕΠΙΜΕΛΗΘΕÎΤΑ ΤΗΣ ΑÎΑΣΤΑΣΕΩΣ ΤΩΠΣΤΑΤΙΩΤΩΠBesides the Forty seventh Medal I before mentioned at Smyrna Monsieur Spon bought another Med. 59. on the Reverse of which is a young Figure holding two Serpents in its hand seeming to discourse with Aesculapius who was the Titular Deity of Pergamus I suppose signifying a Treaty between That and some other City for about it is writ ΠΕΡΓΑΜΕÎΩΠOf Pergamus The Figure of which you may view and proceed to consider how he that hath the Seven Spirits of God and the Seven Stars reproacheth them of Sardis Apoc. 3.1 2 c. I know thy Works Thou hast a Name that thou livest SARDIS and art dead Be watchful and strengthen the Things that remain which are ready to die For I have not found thy Works perfect before God Remember therefore how thou hast received and heard and hold fast and repent If therefore thou shalt not watch I will come on thee as a Thief and thou shalt not know what Hour I come upon thee Thou hast a few Names even in Sardis who have not defiled their Garments and they shall walk with me in White for they are worthy He that overcometh shall be cloathed in white Rayment and I will not blot his Name out of the Book of Life but will confess his Name before My Father and before His Angels And now see how it fareth with this
miserable Church thus marked out by God who being reduced to a very inconsiderable number live by the Sweat of their Brows in digging and planting the Gardens of the Turks they live amongst and serve having neither Church nor Priest among them Nor are the Turks themselves there very considerable either for Number or Riches being only Herdsmen to the Cattle feeding on those spacious Plains dwelling in a few pitiful Earthen Huts having one Mosque perverted to that use from a Christian Church Thus is that once Glorious City of the rich King Croesus now reduced to a Nest of worse than Beggars Their Pactolus hath long since ceased to yield them Gold and the Heavens to recover them their dying Glories Yet there are some Remains of noble Structures Remembrancers of their prosperous State long since destroyed For at the East-side of the City are the Ruins of an old Castle and of a great Church and North and South Palaces and other proud Buildings humbled at present to the Earth Some Inscriptions I had given me of this Place of which this is the most considerable wherein the Council and Senate of Sardis honoured the Emperour Antoninus Pius as a Mark of their good Will ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΑ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΑ ΘΕΟΥ ΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΥ ΥΙΟΠΘΕΟΥ ΤΡΑΙΑÎΟΥ ΥΙΩÎΟΠΤ. ΑΙΛΙΟΠΑΔΡΙΑÎΟΠΑÎΤΩÎΙÎΟΠΕΥΣΕΒΗΠΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΠΔΗΜΑΡΧΙΚΗΣ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΣ Î’. ΥΠΑΤΟΠΤΡΙΤΟΠΠΑΤΗΡΑ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΟΣ Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΤΩΠΣΑΡΔΙΑÎΩΠΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΠΗΡΩΑ ΕΥÎΟΙΑΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΧΑΡΙΠTo conclude It is situate about a days Journey South of Thyatira at the Foot and on the North-side of the famous Mountain Tmolus called now by the Turks Bozdag or Joy-Mountain They have the Prospect of a spacious Plain North of it watered by many Streams partly issuing out of a Hill South-West of the Town and partly from the Tmolus from whence also the Pactolus issueth out of the East side of it and with the rest empty themselves into the Hermus This Place is yet called by the Turks Sart or Sards not much differing from its antient Name Sardis Of which I have a Monument preserved in an antient piece of their Money coyned in the time of the Emperour Gordianus Pius Med. 60 61 62 63 64 65 66. about the Reverse whereof I read ϹΑΡΔΙΑ ... .. ΩΚΟΡΩΠI saw two others very rare the one of the Empress Tranquillina and the other of Caracalla with an Urn on the Reverse which containeth a Branch of Olives and under is written ΧΡΥϹΑÎΘΙÎΑ ϹΑΡΔΙΑÎΩΠΒ. ÎΕΩΚΟΡΩΠThe Sport Chysanthina of the Sardians twice Neocorus Another stamped by the common Assembly of Asia there in honour of Drusus and Germanicus Brother and Nephew to the Emperour Tiberius And another very curious one my Comrade produceth having the Emperour Commodus seated in the midst of the Zodiack with Celestial Signs engraven on 't and on the other a Figure with a Crown-mure with these Letters about it ΣΑΡΔΙΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΑΥΔΙΑΣ ΕΛΛΑΔΟΣ Α ΜΗΤΡΟΠΟΛΙΣ Sardis the first Metropolis of Asia Greece and Audia but where and what Audia was I find not The Doom of Laodicea seemeth to have been yet more terrible LAODICEA than any of the rest For it is now utterly destroyed and forsaken of Men an Habitation only for Wolves Foxes and Chacals a Den of Dragons Snakes and Vipers And that because the Lord hath executed the Judgment that he hath spoken upon her That all the World might know and tremble at the fierce Anger of God against impenitent negligent and careless Sinners For such was the Accusation of the Luke-warm Laodiceans that grew proud and self-conceited thinking themselves better than they were Wherefore because they were neither Hot nor Cold they were loathsom to God and He therefore assured them He would spit them out of His Mouth The Ruins shew it to have been a very great City situate upon six or seven Hills encompassing a large space of Ground twenty Miles distant from Coloss North-East and five Miles South of Hierapolis between which is a Plain watered with the River Lycus about a Mile and half distance from Laodicea It hath three Theaters of white Marble so beautiful and entire as if they were but lately built and a Circus as stately What other Antiquities yet remain there I heard not but my Comrade hath a Medal of this City Med. 67. which I count no small Rarity It is of the Emperour Commodus with a Reverse representing the four Seasons of the Year in four Figures The first bearing a Basket of Flowers the second a Cycle the third a Basket of Fruit with these Letters about ΕΥΤΥΧΕΙΣ ΚΑΙΡΟΙ ΛΑΟΔΙΚΕΩΠÎΕΟΚΟΡΩΠsignifying the Genius's of the Seasons of Laodicea Neocorus It is called now Eske-hissar or Old-Castle and not Laodichia as Signior Ferraro affirmeth nor yet by the Turks Nove-lesche nor hath it the Title of an arch-Arch-Bishops See as he saith Perhaps this mistake of his is grounded on the mistake of those who have taken Laotik a Village near Angury called antiently Ancyra a great way from these Parts to be the antient Laodicea Philadelphia is the Church as well as Smyrna PHILADELPHIA comforted with most gracious Promises from Heaven and therefore owes its present condition which is so much better than the rest to the Support of it which as I was informed and Mr Smith affirmeth next to Smyrna hath the greatest number of Christians above the other Metropolitical-Seats there being above Two hundred Houses of Christians there and four Churches whereof the chief is dedicated to Panagia or the Holy Virgin the other to St George the third to St Theodore and the fourth to St Taxiarchus as St Michael the Arch-Angel is called by the Greeks When all Asia beside were over-run by the Turkish Forces the Philadelphians still maintain'd their Liberty against the raging Conquerours Orchanes and Morat the second and third Sultans of the Turks until the time of Bajazet the next Sultan by whom they were forced to submit yet to a more easie Fate than the rest of that Country For after they had most valiantly defended themselves their Surrender was upon terms more easie than their Neighbours who abandoned to the Mercy of the Barbarous Conquerour were handled accordingly But to these Heavens had promised a more particular Protection assuring them That He knew their Works and Behold I have set a Door open before thee and none can shut it For thou hast a little Strength and hast kept my Word and hast not denied my Name Because thou hast kept the Patience ordained thee by my Word I also will keep thee from the hour of Temptation that shall come upon all the World to try them that dwell upon the Earth Apoc. 3.8.10 Than which as my Comrade saith What could be said more formally to foretell the Coming of the Turks the open Enemies of Christianity who seem to be sent on purpose for the Punishment of our Crimes and to distinguish the Faithful from the False Christians who pretend to be so and are not Of the Antiquities
Government But after forty Years his whole Family was banished from thence by Clisthenes Alcmaeonides who took the Government upon him by the Name of Arehon and among other things altered the Number and Names of the ‖ Herodot l. 5. Tribes After this they had War with the Persians and with wonderful Success routed the numerous Armies of Darius and Xerxes and that with inconsiderable numbers in proportion to their Enemies which they perform'd under the discreet and happy Conduct of those valiant Captains Miltiades and Themistocles at Land in their wonderful Victory of Marathon obtain'd against a Million of Men of which 't is said not Fifty thousand escaped and by Sea in the Fight at Salamis against Xerxes his Navy Herodot But in their Wars with the Lacedemonians they were not so Fortunate For these took Athens and imposed over them for Governours thirty Tyrants But from this disgraceful condition they were soon delivered by the Policy and Valour of Thrasibulus and at last by the Help of the Thebans under that brave General Epaminondas at the Battle of Leuctra they so perfectly subdued the Spartans their Enemies that they could never recover themselves again Insomuch that the Athenians became Masters of the Aegean Seas and of the greatest part of the Isles therein going on Conquerours even to the Borders of Egypt and had as Aristophanes reports a thousand Cities under them They held the Sovereignty of Greece for Threescore and ten Years but kept it no longer by reason of the Lacedemonians and Thebans emulating their Greatness and stirring up Factions and Divisions in Greece against them At which time nevertheless the Eleutherians voluntarily joyned themselves to them Pansan partly out of spite to the Thebans and partly out of a great liking they had taken to the Athenian way of Government But at length all sides being grown weary of fighting and a general Peace concluded the Athenians soon began to slight the Vertue of their Ancestors and to give themselves over to Luxury and Idleness loving their Ease so much that they made it Treason for any to propose the Re-establishing of their Army or the raising any Money for the maintenance of it preferring a lucky Satyrist before the bravest Captain and to hear a Play before the gaining of the greatest Conquest Which degenerous Disposition of theirs in a short time gave opportunity and leisure to the Macedonians to advance their Monarchy and extend it by little and little over all Greece a Design projected by Philip of Macedon the Father but atchieved and perfected by Alexander the Great his Son Philip brake their Power at Sea and took from them the Aegean Islands and they tamely permitted his Son Alexander to deprive them of what remained by Land to such a degree of Subjection as to disarm them of their very Tongues by restraining them from talking in their Publick Meetings by so much no doubt more grievous to them by how much they naturally loved and used the Liberty of that Member For who such Wits in all Greece as the Athenians who such Talkers who so Pragmatical and busie in all Affairs And to give many of them their due none so Eloquent and Learned After the Death of Alexander they endeavour'd to recover their Liberty but without any great Success Under the Protection of the Romans they enjoyed it in some competent measure until siding with Mithridates King of Pontus in his unsuccessful Wars they again lost it and quite ruined themselves For Sylla being inform'd That they voluntarily took Mithridates his part in his Rage put the greatest part of the Inhabitants to the Sword and had destroyed all had not the Night favour'd the Escape of some He set fire on Piraeum and Munichia and spared neither sacred nor profane Places in his Fury After this they were unfortunate also in taking the weaker side in the Wars between Caesar and Pompey But Caesar was no less a merciful than a fortunate and valiant Conquerour he pardoned the Living for the sakes of the Dead But after his Death they shewed themselves most ungrateful to his Memory in erecting Statues to his Murderer Brutus But this cost them the Isle of Aegina so soon as Augustus came to succeed in the Empire In the Reign of Tiberius Germanicus his adopted Son passing by Athens treated them as Friends and Allies of the Romans and honour'd them with the Priviledge of having a Lictor which is a mark of Sovereign Power Caligula his Son being in the Throne took away their Image of Jupiter Olympius and caused it to be brought to Rome where he brake off the Head of the God and set his own upon the Trunk In the time of Claudius Successour to Caligula St Paul came to Athens and having in his way from the Port to the City observ'd an Altar as the Inscription shewed dedicated to the unknown God he took occasion to preach unto them God the Creator of all things whom till then they had worshipped in Ignorance To whose Preaching the great Dionysius a Senator of the chief Court Areopagus joyn'd himself and became the First-Fruits of the Faith in that City And therefore deservedly appointed by St Paul to be their First Bishop having now added Divinity to his Philosophy And this was conformable to the Apostles Practice as St Clement informs us in his First Epistle to the Corinthians And this was the first Foundation of the Church of Christ in Athens For Athens till then was the Seminary of superstitious Temples and false Worship of which Pausanias gives an ample Description and Pliny in his time assures us There were no less than three Images worshipped there Nero to shew his Ingenuity amongst the Greeks made a Voyage into Achaia and without doubt spent no small time at Athens My Comrade is of opinion That a singular Medal he hath seen where the Greeks stile Nero The Saviour of Mankind was coined at Athens Vespasian reduc'd Achaia to be a Province of the Roman Empire obliging them to be Subject to the Roman Laws and to be governed by a Proconsul to one of whom named Rufus Festus an Inscription upon a great Stone near the Temple of Minerva is dedicated Yet under the Emperour Trajan this Province of Achaia as well as other Places of Greece enjoyed at least some shew of Liberty as appears by a Letter which Pliny wrote to one Maximus who was sent thither by the Senate to be their Governour The Tenor of which Epistle is as followeth Remember saith he that you are going into Achaia the proper and true Greece That you are appointed to govern a State of free Cities who have maintained their Liberty by their Valour Take not away any thing of their Priviledges their Dignity no nor yet of their Presumption But consider it is a Country that hath of long time given Laws and received none That it is to Athens thou goest where it would be thought a barbarous Cruelty in thee to deprive them of that
and cases extraordinary Now if the Areopagus were upon this ridge of the Hill descending from the Castle Hesychius is not so very blameable for putting it in that Acropolis for this Hill is part of the Rock the Castle stands upon And Suidas saith That Pagus signifies a Rock Hill or other eminent place All which doth clearly insinuate that this so celebrated place of the Athenian Judicature was built upon this Hill whence it was called Mars his Hill because upon it Mars had suffered Judgment in a solemn Assembly for the Murder of Halirrhothius Son of Neptune I shall only add That if these conjectures of mine touching the Areopagus and Fountain there be good it will make a great alteration in the Names which Travellers have hitherto given to sundry Antiquities in Athens For it followeth that the Temple of Ceres was near that place and not on the Banks of Eilissus and that the Fountain Caliro there also was neither Calirrhoe Hallirrhothium nor Hennâ—acrene as indeed it could not be For that Fountain on the River Ilissus was never within the Walls of the City as those were no more than the River Eilissus it self that ran by its Eastern Walls This also helps something to vindicate the regularity of Pausanias his Description of Athens and without which he will be said to have done it with the greatest confusion imaginable I doubt also Authors confound this Fountain Halirrhothium with Calirrhoe the Fountain of Calydou in Aetotia of which I have spoken something already in what I have said at Patras From this Fountain keeping along the ridge of the Hill a little way North-Westwards under a cragged Rock is a ruined Church they say was formerly dedicated to Saint Dennys the Areopagite and by it is the Palace of the Archbishop of Athens They believe it was built on the Foundations of the Palace that most Illustrious Senator lived in who was the first Christian and first Bishop of Athens Of this Church there is nothing to be seen now but a heap of ruines and a Well where they say Saint Paul hid himself for a little while seeing the people put in an uproar upon his Preaching in the Areopagus This Tradition seems to confirm my opinion that the Areopagus stood hereabouts Lib V Fig XI Templum Thesei Descending this Hill Northwards from the Archbishops Palace The TEMPLE OF THESEUS out of Town is the Temple of Theseus a Building in all respects like the Temple of Minerva in the Castle as to its matter form and order of Architecture but not so large For the Portico that is raised upon half a dozen of steps or degrees is but an hundred and one foot long and forty four foot and a half broad and each degree one foot two inches and a half deep the Cella fifty four foot long and twenty broad The Beauty of this Structure is not at all prejudiced by its littleness but still remains a Master-piece of Architecture not easie to be parallel'd much less exceeded by any other Much of the History of Theseus is expressed in Relievo on the Pronaos of the Front and West end where all the Locks and Art of Wrestling seem admirably well express'd There are some also in Womens Habits as I suppose to express the War of the Amazons Pausanias seems to describe all this as painted and indeed the Frize is adorned with square Pannels round the outside which may have been painted in former times but is long since washed away by the weather to shew the natural Beauty of the white Marble This was built presently upon the Battle of Marathon against the Persians It is now dedicated to Saint George instead of that in the Castle when Athens sell into the hands of the Turks ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗΙ ΕΠΙ ΤΟΥ ΜΕΤΑ ΤΕΙ .... ΙΟΠΠΟÎΤΙ ΚΟΠΑΡΧΟÎΤΑ ΕÎΙΑΥΤΟΥ Η ΠΡΥ ΤΑÎΕΙΑΣ ΟΙ ΠΡΥΤΑÎΕΙΣ ΤΗΣ ΠΑΠΔΕΙΟÎΙΔΟΣ ΦΥΛΗΣ ΤΕΙΜΗΣΑÎΤΕΣ ΑΥ ΤΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΥΣ ΑΙΣΕΙΤΟΥΣ ΑÎΕΓΡΑΨΑΠΕΠΩÎΥΜΟΣ ΘΕΟΠΟΜΠΟΣ ΘΑΛΑΜΟΥΠΑΙΑ ΠΑΙΑÎΙΕΙΣ ΦΛ. ΑΡΙΑÎΟΣ c. ΣΤΕΙΡΙΕΙΣ ΓΕΛΛ ΤΕΙΜΟΘΕΟΙ c. After this follows a Catalogue of Names of Men of these and some other Towns of the Tribe of Pandion ending with several Officers belonging to the Councel of the Pritanes which I omit because it is long having too little time now to transcribe it and examine it as it deserves It signifies That then and after Julius Ponticus was Archon the eighth Year of his being Prytane That the Prytanes of the Tribe of Pandion honouring these Men enrolled them among those that supped daily in the Assembly of Prytanes Within the Quire or Holy place is a piece of a Pillar made hollow on the top I suppose for a Font to baptize in on the sides of which are two large ancient Inscriptions one whereof I copied but not the other it stood so in a corner against the Wall Hard by this was formerly the Gymnasium of Ptolomy which I suppose may be a Foundation West of the Temple of Theseus now even with the ground in which is a large Stone of Egyptian Granate Marble but I observed nothing else from the Temple of Theseus If you keep along without the Town you will cross the way to Lepsina and pass by a Church called Chrysospiliotisa and come to that point of the Town I told you was directly West by North from Mount Saint George or Anchesmus Between the Church and it is one way out of the Town on the left hand which is the way to Pyraea or Portlione and the other straight forward to Eleusinia Going forwards towards the North-side of the Town you go by the Gate that leadeth into the Town by the way of Thebes and by it is the Church of St Theodorus and a little further another Church called Hagia Kyra and the way from Athens to Negropont still continuing yet onwards without the Town you pass by several other entrances into the City and ways out into the Country until you come to a Church they call Sotira Lycodemou on the East-side of the Town between the Town and Mount St George Here is supposed to have been the Lycaeum for Sotira Lycodemou is as much as to to say Our Lady of the Lycaeum being on that side of the Town where the antient Place of the Lycaeum was said to be to wit towards the River Eilissus The Church now standing there is a Building of Brick and other Materials they found about the Place of no antienter Date than the publick Profession of Christianity if so long There are two great Chairs of Stone one within the Church and another without both of very antient Work On that within are some few Figures in Basso-relievo and these Letters ΒΟΗΘΟΣ ΔΙΟΔ Boethus Son of Diodorus I remember Pliny somewhere speaks of a great Sculptor of this Name but his chiefest Skill was in Silver-work And this is what I observed to remain without the present Town But if from the Temple of Theseus you go the nearest way directly into the Town North-Eastward you will come to