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A68944 The trauels of certaine Englishmen into Africa, Asia, Troy, Bythinia, Thracia, and to the Blacke Sea And into Syria, Cilicia, Pisidia, Mesopotamia, Damascus, Canaan, Galile, Samaria, Iudea, Palestina, Ierusalem, Iericho, and to the Red Sea: and to sundry other places. Begunne in the yeare of iubile 1600. and by some of them finished in this yeere 1608. The others not yet returned. Very profitable to the help of trauellers, and no lesse delightfull to all persons who take pleasure to heare of the manners, gouernement, religion, and customes of forraine and heathen countries. Biddulph, William.; Lavender, Theophilus. 1609 (1609) STC 3051; ESTC S101961 116,132 170

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is concerning praier wherein is required 4. That euery man fiue times a day repaire to their Churches to make publike praier vnto Mahomet The Turkes haue no bels but very faire Churches and high Steeples and at the houres of their publike praier they are called to Church by the voice of Criers who goe vp into their stéeples and cry with a loud voice Come now and worship the great God And sometimes also thus La Illa Eillala Mahomet Resullala that is God is a great God and Mahomet is his Prophet And sometimes no more but thus Ollah hethbar that is God is alone that is There is but one God And oftentimes there is but one Crier in one stéeple But on their Sabboth day which is friday and at sundry other times there are many men crying and bauling in euery stéeple like a kennell of hounds when they haue started their game The first méeting at publike praier euery day is before the rising of the sunne The second is about noone or midday and on their Sabboth day two houres sooner and againe at noone so that they pray fiue times euery day and on their Sabboth day six times The third time for publike praier euery day is at the tenth houre of the day called by the Turkes Kindi by the Moores Assera about thrée or foure of the clocke after noone The fourth méeting is about sunne setting The fifth and last houre of praier is two houres within night before they goe to sléepe Before they come to praier they prepare themselues thereunto by outward washings of themselues in token of reuerence and suffer no women to come to their Churches lest the sight of them should with-draw their mindes from praier And though they doe not come to Church yet when they heare the voice of the Criers they will pray wheresoeuer they be and fall downe and kisse the ground thrée times Oftentimes also these Criers walke about the stéeples in the euenings and sing after their rude manner Dauids Psalmes in the Arabicke tongue And when rich men heare them sing well and with cléere voices they are so delighted therewith that they vse to send them money Their fifth Commandement is concerning fasting viz. 5. That one Moone in the yeere euery one of any reasonable age spend the whole time in fasting They haue but one Lent in the yéere and then they fast generally in this manner When the new moone changeth which they call Romadan then during all that moone they fast all the day long betwixt sunne rising and sunne setting and neither eat nor drinke any thing at all But when the sunne setteth then the crier calleth them to Church and after they haue praied then they may eat what kinde of meat they will sauing swines flesh which is forbidden by their Law and as oft as they will vntill sunne rising so that their Lent is but a changing of day into night During this moone Romadan they obserue this kinde of abstinence very strictly And so soone as the next moone changeth which they call Byram then their Lent endeth and they hold a feast for thrée daies space together At which time they say Mahomet deliuered vnto them their law Their sixth Commandement is concerning Almesdéeds 6. Let euery man out of his store giue vnto the poore liberally freely and voluntarily Their Almes is either publike or priuate Their publike Almes is a sacrifice or offering of some beast for a sacrifice vnto Mahomet once euery yéere which being killed it is cut into small péeces and giuen all to the poore Their priuate Almes notwithstanding their Law is much neglected for I haue heard of many poore people who haue died amongst them for want of reléefe and in the way as I haue trauelled I haue found some dead for hunger and cold And though a man be neuer so poore yet if he be not able to pay his Head money to the King yéerely they are beaten and their women and children sold to pay it I● our murmuring and impatient poore were héere but a short time they would learne to bee more thankfull to God and man and how to estéeme of a benefit bestowed on them and not curse and reuile as many of them doe if any one that passeth by them doe not giue vnto them The Turkes are more mercifull to birds cats and dogs than to the poore Their seuenth Commandement is concerning Marriage 7. That euery man must of necessitie marry to encrease and multiply the Sect and Religion of Mahomet Their custome is to buy their wiues of their parents and neuer to sée them vntil they come to be married and their marriage is nothing but enrolling in the Cadies booke And it is lawfull for them to take as many wiues as they will or as many as they are able to kéepe And whensoeuer he disliketh any one of them it is their vse to sell them or giue them to any of their men-slaues And although they loue their women neuer so well yet they neuer sit at table with men no not with their husbands but wait at table and serue him and when he hath dined they dine in secret by themselues admitting no man or mankinde amongst them if he be aboue twelue yéeres of age And they neuer goe abroad without leaue of their husbands which is very seldome except it be either to the Bannio or hot Bath or once a wéeke to wéepe at the graues of the dead which is vsually on Thursday being the Ene before their Sabboth which is Friday and the Iewes Sabboth on Saturday and the Christians on Sunday thrée Sabboth daies together in one Country If their husbands haue béene abroad at his entrance into the house if any one of their women be sitting on a stoole she riseth vp and boweth herselfe to her husband and kisseth his hand and setteth the same stoole for him whereon they sate and stand so long as he is in presence If the like order were in England women would be more dutifull and faithfull to their husbands than many of them are and especially if there were the like punishment for whores there would be lesse whoredome for there if a man haue an hundred women if any one of them prostitute herselfe to any man but her owne husband he hath authoritie to binde her hands and feet and cast her into the riuer with a stone about her necke and drowne her And this is a common punishment amongst them but it is vsually done in the night And the man if he be taken is dismembred But the daughters and sisters of the great Turke are more frée than all other men and women For when their brethren die they liue and when they come to yéeres of marriage their father if he be liuing or brother if he be King will giue vnto them for their husbands the greatest Bashawes or Viziers whom they shall affect and say vnto them Daughter or sister I giue thée this man to be thy slaue and bedfellow and
with letters Hieroglificke and néere to it is a great columne in the which are carued by histories the things memorable which haue béene done in this Hippodrome There is also another great columne néere vnto it of marble and one of brasse made by singular arte in forme of thrée serpents wroonge one within another And diuers other Antiquities which are dispersed in diuers places of the Cities as the Palace of Constantine the great her first restorer which ioyneth vnto the walles néere vnto the corner which is towards the West The Sepulcher of the same Constantine which is madeall of Porphyre being in a corner of a streete the most filthiest in all the Citie And going towards the gate of Seliuree is to be séene a great Columne of marble historied after the manner of those of Antonie and Adrian which are at Rome Moreouer there are Conduit pipes and diuers Cesternes vaulted supported some by vaults and other some by a great number of pillers and diuers other fragments of Antiquities There are also two places in Constantinople at this day like vnto the Exchange in London called the Bezestan distinguished by these names The old Bezestan and The new Bezestan wherein all sorts of commodities are to be bought as in the Royall Exchange in London and greater variety as veluets silkes and sattins and waste-coats ready made of all sorts of silke finely quilted and curiously wrought with curious handkerchiefes of exquisite worke and many other commodities which were too long to set downe But these Bezestans are not open all the day but at certaine houres vz. from nine of the clocke in the morning to three or foure in the afternoone and not euery day neither but on certaine daies in the wéeke There is also a vsual market in Constantinople wherein they sell men and women of all ages as ordinarily as we doe cattle in England which are for the most part Christians such as the Turkes take captiues in Hungarie or other places where they ouercome Their custome is to make slaues of all they can take aliue and at their returne to sell them in the open market If Christians be moued in compassion to buy them because they are Christians the Turkes will sell them excéeding deare to them but cheape to a Musslelman as they call themselues that is true beleeuers But if they cannot get their owne price for them they will enforce them to turne Turks and to serue them in all seruile labours as the Israelites did the Egyptians Vpon the corner of the Citie which stretcheth towards Gall●poly neere vnto the sea side there is a very strong Castle compassed with 7. great towers enuironed with high and strong walles well furnished with artillery which Castle is by the Turkes called Iadicule but commonly The seuen Towers For the kéeping whereof there is a Captaine called Disdaragla a man of great reuenewes and Authoritie which ordinarily hath vnder him 500. dead payes called Assarelies which haue all béen Ienesaries and haue euery one of them for their wages 5000. Aspers by the yeere And there the great Turke keepeth such Guard for that he and other Emperours Turkes his predecessours haue alwayes there kept the Treasures yet the Grand-Sig●ior commeth thither very seldome This Castle also with seuen Towers commonly called The seuen Towers is a Prison for great men like vnto the Tower of London There are also two other strong Castles which I haue séene towards the Blacke Sea called Mare Euxinum wherinto they put prisoners of whom they make great account and for whom they expect great ransome At the Blacke sea we saw Pompeis Piller of marble erected one a rocky Iland neere vnto the shoare whereon some of our company wrote their names viz. master Robert Yong Gentleman who also there wrote the name of our noble Prince HENRY Nathaniel Persiuall Iohn Milwarde Thomas Marson and others And on the shoare néere vnto the Blacke Sea there is a Lanthorne as high as stéeple and on the top thereof a great pan of liquor in darke nights continually burning to giue warning to ships how néere they approach vnto the shoare For it is a very dangerous shoare and it is therefore called the Blacke Sea not because the waters thereof are any whit blacker then others but from the dangerous euents because in blacke and darke nights many ships are cast away rushing either vpon rockes or sands as the Red Sea also in Egypt is not therefore called the Red Sea because the waters thereof are redder than others but as some thinke because the waters were turned into blood when Moses wrought miracles before Pharaoh But this reason I doe not so well approue because we doe not reade that the sea was turned into blood but the Riuers so that they could not drinke of the Riuers nor the Fish liue therein But I like better of their iudgement who say it is called the Red Sea because of the red grauell and red bull-rushes which still grow in great abundance by the shoare thereof The Blacke sea is not farre from Constantinople for we tooke boat from thence in the morning and were at the Blacke Sea before noone hauing séene Pompeis piller we went on shoare and tooke wine and other victuals with vs vp into the Lanthorn and there dined and returned to Constantinople by Supper time My brother Peter Biddulph in right humble manner saluteth you and that vertuous Gentle-woman your wife I vnderstand by a Letter which I lately receiued from him dated at Anchona that he had béene at Rome in the yéere of Iubile but at this present he is either in Venice or in some other principal City in Italy where hée cutteth Diamonds Rubies Saphiers Emrods and all other sorts of precious stones I wrote for him to come vnto me to Aleppo in Syria to bée factor for a worshipfull Merchant of our Company but he answered me that he had learned not to be another mans man so long as he could be his owne according to that versicle Alterius non sit qui suus esse potest that is Let not him a mans seruants be Who can liue well and may be free Whereby I perceiued that his purpose was to follow the trade of a Lapidarie and buying and selling precious stones which he buyeth rough and rouged and when he hath smoothed them and curiously wrought them then he selleth them againe Yet I expect his comming hither before many yéeres be expired for I vnderstand he hath a purpose to trauell to Spahan in Persia and to other of the chiefest Cities there to buy precious stones which are brought thither from India and other places And his direct way thither is to trauell thorow Siria and from thence to Babylon in Assyria wherefore I make account he will visit me in his iourney thither And I doubt not but hee will salute you with many letters before his departure out of Christendome for he writeth vnto mee that you by your
by fire either by the burning of a chimney or any other small part thereof without great harme yet they will lay to his charge who dwelleth therein that he would haue burnt the whole Citie and take from him all that he hath and imprison him as long as they please Such secret murtherers théeues and violent oppressors are they though their lawes forbid murther and theft and they themselues know those to bée guiltlesse whom they eate vpon and imprison Yea Mahomet himselfe alloweth to his contrimen the Arabians that is to poore men accustomed to liue vpon the spoile he alloweth theft and setteth a law of reuengement Hurt him saith he which hurts you He saith also Hee that either killeth his enemie or is killed by his enemie entreth into Paradise And it is 〈◊〉 vnusuall thing amongst them specially for lenesaries to kill their seruants as Butchers kill Calues and throw them into a ditch when they haue done and oftentimes for small offences lay them down on their ha●ks and 〈◊〉 vp their heeles and bind their feete together and 〈…〉 a coul staffe and with a great cudgell giue them two or thrée hundred blowes on the soles of their féete after which punishment they are not able to stand on their feete for the space of manie daies and some of them goe lame alwaies after Seruants there are as vsually bought and sold in the market with them as bruite beasts amongst vs whom they vse as slaues in all kind of drudgerie It it better to be a seruant in England then a master ouer many seruants in Turkey These are the eight Commandements of Mahomet But the two chiefest points forbidden in the Alcoran are the eating of swines flesh and the drinking of wine Yet many of them drinke wine vntill they be drunken but I neuer heard of any Turkes would eate swines flesh The things considered being so fond and rediculous it may séeme strange that men of courage in Turkey doe not forsake this deceiuer and deluder of mankind But it is the lesse strange if we consider how he hath fortified his law with foure bulwarks or strong defences 1. First hée commandeth to kill them which speake against the Alcoran And therefore no man dare gainesay or deny any thing contained in their Alcoran but whosoeuer shall dare either to dispute against that booke or to doubt of any Article therein written he shall be sure either to haue his tongue pulled out of his head or els his bodie to be burnt and consumed with fire 2. Secondly he forbiddeth conference to be had with men of a contrary sect or religion 3. Thirdly he forbiddeth credit to be giuen to any beside the Alcoran 4. Fourthly hee commandeth them to separate themselues altogether from other men and to say Let me haue my law and take you yours ye are free from that which I doe and I likewise from that which you doe And herein I hold it better for Merchants and other Christians to soiourne and to vse trade and trafficke amongst Turkes then Papists for the Turke giueth libertie of conscience to all men and liketh well of euery man that is forward and zealous in his owne religion But among the Papists no man can buy and sell Vnlesse hée beare the markes of the beast as S. John foretold Reuelation 13. 17. Moreouer to driue away all feare of damnation from the mindes of his Disciples Mahomet telleth them that euery man shall be saued by his owne Religion he only excepted which reuolteth from the Alchoran vnto another Law The lewes by the Law of Moses Christians by the Law of the Gospell and the Saracens by the Law of Mahomet And they hold that at the day of iudgement all shall appeare vnder thrée banners The Iewes vnder the banner of Moses and Christians vnder the banner of Christ and Turkes and other Mahometans vnder Mahomets banner and vnder their conduct enter into Paradise which they describe after an earthly sensuall and brutish manner affirming That the ground of Paradise is of golD which is distinguished with pretious stones and sweet flowers set thicke together planted with all fruitfull trees the pleasant riuers running thorow the greene fields whereof some powre out milke others white honey others the purest wine and that there they shall be clothed with all sorts of colours except blacke And therefore the Turkes to this day weare no blacke but when they sée a man clothed in blacke many of them will goe backe and say they will fly from him who shall neuer enter into Paradise Yet whosoeuer will liue in quiet amongst them must neither meddle with their Law their Women nor their slaues Mahomets comming to iudgement was expected 20. yéeres since for their beléefe was that Mahomet would come againe at the end of 1000. yéeres as he promised them and bring them to Paradise which time expiring and he not comming they haue dealt more fauourably with him and giuen him longer time for they say he was extremely sicke when he was asked of the time of his comming and that he answered them with such a low voice that he could not well be vnderstood and that they which reported that he would returne at the end of 1000. yéeres mistooke him for that he meant 2000. yéeres At which time if he doe not come according to promise they will looke for him no longer nor belacute eue in him any more but become Christians The Moores are more ancient dwellers in Aleppo than Turks and more forward and zealous in Mahometisme than Turkes yea all the Churchmen amongst the Turkes are Moores whom the Turkes count a base people in regard of themselues and call them Tots Yet their Churchmen they haue in great reuerence and not only theirs but they reuerence Churchmen of all nations and call them holy men Saints and men of God I my selfe haue had great experience héereof both in the place of my abode at Aleppo and in my iourney towards Ierusalem and in other places In Aleppo as I haue walked in the stréets both Turkes and Moores and other Nations would very reuerently salute me after the manner of their Country yea their very souldiers as I haue walked in the fields with many other of our Nation without a Ienesarie to guard vs though they haue béene many hundreds together yet haue they not offered either me or any of my company wrong for my sake but haue said one to another Hadah Cassies that is This is a Church-man and therefore take heed what you doe vnto him for hee is a good man c. At Ierusalem many strangers of sundry Nations vnderstanding that I was an English Preacher came and kissed my hand and called me the English Patriarke Yea in all my ten yéeres trauels I neuer receiued neither was offered wrong by any Nation but mine owne Countrimen and by them chiefly whom it chiefly concerned to protect me from wrongs yet haue I found them most forward to offer me wrong
    Armenian 1 Beer One 1 Mecke 2 Echee Two 2 Ergucke 3 Euch. Three 3 Ericke 4 Durt Foure 4 Chouers 5 Besch Fiue 5 Hincke 6 Altee Sixe 6 Vites 7 Yeadee Seuen 7 Yeota 8 Sechees Eight 8 Outa 9 Dochees Nine 9 Vina 10 Ontemaunt Tenne 10 Danomecke 11 Onbeer Eleuen 11 Dastegucke 12 Onechee Twelue 12 Daswericke 13 Onuch Thirteene 13 Dasnochouers 14 Ondurt Fourteene 14 Daswincke 15 Onbesh Fifteene 15 Dasno●uites 16 Onaltee Sixteene 16 Dasnuota 17 Onedee Seuenteene 17 Dasnouta 18 Onsechees Eighteene 18 Dasuonine 19 Ondocouz Nineteene 19 Exan 20 Egreme Twentie 20 Exsan on mecke Persian or Agimesc● 1 Euck. 12 Couandesdak 2 Du. 13 Sisdah 3 See 14 Choucdah 4 Chohac 15 Pounsdah 5 Panche 16 Shemisdah 6 Sh●ch 17 Hesktah 7 Haste 18 H●shtittah 8 Hastit 19 Noados 9 Nou. 20 Bist 10 Dah 21 Bist Euck. c. 11 Yeandesdah     Of the Jewes BEsides all these Mahometans which I haue already named there are many Iewes in Constantinople Aleppo Damascus Babylon Grand Cayro and euery great Citie and place of Marchandise throughout all the Turkes dominions who are knowne by their hatts for they were accustomed to weare red hatts without br●●mes at my first comming But lately the head Vizier being their enemy they are constrained to weare hatts of blewe cloth because red was accounted too stately and princelike a colour for them to weare They are called by three names which were giuen to them of old First they are called Hebrewes as some suppose of Heber the fourth from Noah in whom the hebrew tongue remained at the confusion of tongues whence he had his name But S. Augustine and other fathers affirme that they were first called Hebreweof Abraham with the alteration of a fewe letters Hebraei quasi Abrahaei that is Hebrewes as it were Abrahites Secondly they were called Israelites from Jacob surnamed Israel whose grandfathers Abraham was Thirdly they were called Iewes after that Juda and Beniamin which for the vnity of minds were as it were one Tribe following Rehoboam the sonne of Solomon of the tribe of Iuda made the kingdome of Iuda The other ten betaking them to Ieroboam of the tribe of Ephraim set vp the kingdome of the Ephramites or Israel And what became of those ten tribes the Iewes acknowledge themselues to be ignorant Only some of their Rabbies thinke them to bee in Tarracia the onely reason which I haue heard them alledge for their opinion is this because they often vnderstand by Tartarians who came from thence to vse marchandise in Aleppo and else where that there are many amongst them called by Hebrew names to this day Of these thrée names whereby they are knowne the most common name whereby they are called at this day is the name of Iewes One and the same people thrice changed their names often the place of their abode And to this day they haue no king nor country proper to themselues but are dispersed throughout the whole world and in euery place where they come they are contemptible and of base account according to the cry of those crucifiers His blood bee vpon vs and our children which is fulfilled this day in our eares and eies They are of more vile account in the sight of Turkes then Christians in so much that if a Iewe would turne Turke he must first turne Christian before they will admit him to be a Turke Yea it is a word of reproach amongst the Turkes a vsuall protestation amongst them when they are falsly accused of any crime to cleare themselues they vse to protest in this manner If this be true then God graunt I may die a Iewe And the Iewes in like cases vse to say If this be not a false accusation then God graunt I may dye a Christian praying better for themselues then they belieue and as all of them must be that shall bee saued And the poore Christians soiourning and dwelling in these partes doe hate them very vncharitably and irreligiously in that we read Rom. 11. many arguments prouing that they shall bee conuerted againe for on good fryday in many places especially at Zante they throw stones at them insomuch that they dare not come out of their houses all that day and yet are scarse in safety in their houses for they vse to throw stones at their windowes and dores and on the roofe of their houses On thrusday about noone the Iewes begin to kéepe within dores and continue there with their dores shut vntil saturday about noone for if they come forth before that time they are sure to be stoned but after noone on Easter eue if they come abroad they may passe as quietly as euer they did These in their blinde zeale thinke to be reuenged on them for whom Christ prayed saying Father forgiue them for they know not what they doe And some ignorant Christians refuse to eat of their meat or bread their reason is because the Iewes refuse to eat or drinke with Christians to this day or to eat any meat that Christians kill But it is not vnusuall amongst Christians of better knowledge to eat of the Jewes meat which ordinarily they buy of them for the Iewes to this day eat not of the hinderpart of any beast but only of the former parts and sell the hinder quarters of their béefe mutton kids goats c. to Christians They obserue still all their old Ceremonies and feasts Sacrifices only excepted which the Turkes will not suffer them to doe for they were wont amongst them to sacrifice children but dare not now for feare of the Turkes Yet some of them haue confessed that their Physitians kill some Christian patient or other whom they haue vnder their hands at that time in stead of a sacrifice If a man die without children the next brother taketh his wife and raiseth vp séed vnto his brother and they still marry in their owne kindred Many of them are rich Merchants some of them Drogomen and some Brokers Most of them are very crafty and deceitfull people They haue no beggers amongst them but many théeues and some who steale for necessity because they dare not begge They are also very great Vsurers and therein the Turkes ecell them for although there be Vsurers amongst them yet they allow it not for if a Christian or any man borrow money of a Turke though he promise him interest yet if he pay the principall he dares not molest him for interest nor complaine of him being against their law The Iewes Sabboth is on Saturday which they obserue so strictly that they will not trauell vpon any occasion on that day nor receiue money nor handle a pen to write as I haue knowen by experience in a Doctor of Physicke but on the morrow he would take double fées of his Patient They read their law in the Hebrue tongue written in Phylacteries or long roles of parchment And the Old Testament is also read in the Hebrue But their Cakams and
owne prouision which wee brought with vs wee had also other good things for money Marrah is distant from Saracoope 24. miles March 12. was a very rainy day yet we trauelled all the forenoone vntill wee came to a village called Lacmine which a farre off made shew of a very faire village but when we came thither we found it so ruinous that there was not one house able to shroude vs from the extremitie of the shower the inhabitants thereof hauing forsaken it and fled into the mountaines to dwell for feare of the Ienesaries of Damascus who trauelling that way vsed to take from them not onely victuals for themselues and prouender for their horses without money but whatsoeuer things els they found in their houses Onely there was a little Church or Chappel there in good preparation whereinto for a little money we obtained leaue to enter our selues with our horses and carriage and there we brought out our victuals and refreshed our selues and baited our horses and rested vntill it left raining After the shower while our horses were preparing we walked into the fields néere vnto the Church and saw many poore people gathering Mallas and thrée leafed grasse and asked them what they did with it and they answered that it was all their foode and that they boiled it and did eate it then we tooke pitie on them gaue them bread which they receiued very ioyfully and blessed God that there was bread in the world and said they had not séene any bread the space of many moneths We also gaue vnto them small pieces of siluer to relieue their necessitie which they receiued gratefully and wished that their Countrie were in the hands of Christians againe The shower ceasing we rode from this Chappell and village of Lacke money I should haue said Lacmin but might say lacke men and money too and rode forward vntill we came vnto a village or towne called Tyaba where because it was neere night we desired to lodge but could not be admitted into any house for any money whereupon our chiefe Ienesarie Byram B●shaw went into an house and offred to pull man woman and childe out of the house that we might bring in our horses and lodge there our selues But when we saw what pitifull lamentation they made we intreated our Ienesarie either to perswade them for money or to let them alone And vnderstanding that there w●s a faire City in our way ten miles off we fiue with our Ienesarie being well horsed rode thither and left our carriage with the rest of our company at Tyaba to come to vs betimes in the morning This City is now commonly called Aman but of old it was called H●mat● 2. King 17. Heere we lodged in a faire Cane but on the cold ground and vpon the hard stones and thought our selues well prouided for that we had an house ouer our heads to keepe vs day Héere we met with victuals for money and prouender for our horses On the morrow the rest of our company came vnto vs from Tyaba and one of our horses being lame we staied there all that day to buy another and met there that day another swaggering Ienesarie of Damascus of our old acquaintance at Aleppo called Mahomet Bashaw who came from Ierusalem with Italian Merchants whom he had guarded thither These gaue vs good directions for our voyage and told vs what dangers they had escaped Hamath is from Marrah about fiue and thirty miles On the fourteenth of March we trauelled from Hamath a pleasant way and a short daies iourney to a fine towne called vulgarly Hems● but formerly Hus distant from Hamath but twenty miles This is said to haue béene the City where Iob dwelt and is to this day called by the Christians 〈◊〉 biting in those borders Iobs City And there is a fruitfull valley neere vnto it called the v●lley of H●s and a C●stle not f●rre off in the way to ●●●poly called Hu● Castle to this day But I make some doubt whether Iob were euer at this place for Iob is said to haue dwelt amongst the Edomites or wicked Idumaeans and Idumae● bordered vpon Arabia Foelix and not néere Syria where this City called Hus standeth whence the Sabaeans came which with violence tooke away Jobs Oxen and Asses And Iob is said to come of the posteritie of Esay And some thinke him to haue béene the sonne of Abram by Ketura Yet might this City now called Hemse or Hus be the Land of one called by name Hus for I doe finde in the Genealogies of the holy Scripture thrée men of that name Hus One was Arams sonne nephew to Noah Gen. 10. 23. A second was Nachors Abrams brothers sonne by Milchah Gen. 22. 21. The third was of the posterity and kindred of Esau as appeareth in his Genealogie Gen. 3● 28. Whence some gather that Iob was an Idumaean of the posterity of Esau But others affirme him to haue béene the sonne of Abram by Ketura And not vnlikely that some one of these thrée might haue dwelt at this place in Syria called Hus which by corruption of time was called Hemse On the fiftéenth day of March we went from Hus towards Damascus which is foure daies iourney off and all the way vntill we came within ten miles of Damascus is a desart vninhabited and a théeuish way onely there are erected in the way certaine Canes to lodge in But if they bring not prouision with them both for man and horse and some quilt or pillow to sléepe on the hard stones must be their bed and the aire their supper for some of their Canes are nothing but stone wals to kéepe out théeues In Cities they haue very stately Canes but not for Trauellers but for themselues to dwell in for euerie rich man calleth his house a Cane But the Canes that stand in high waies are in charity erected by great men for the protection of Trauellers but most of them are very badly kept and are worse than stables Our first daies iourney from Hus was a very vncomfortable and dangerous desart we saw no house all the way vntill we came vnto a village called Hassia where we lodged in an old Castle distant from Hus 22. miles March 16. From Hassia we rode to an ancient Christian Towne called Charrah where our prouision being spent wée made supply thereof and bought bread and wine of the Christians there dwelling It is inhabited by Greekes and Turkes but gouerned by Turks only There is but one Church in the Towne which is dedicated to S. Nicolas by the Christians who first builded it But both Christians and Turkes pray therein the Christians on the one side or I le of the Church and the Turkes on the other But the Christians are ouer ruled by the Turkes and constrained to finde them oile to their lamps in the Church For the Turkes not only burne lamps in their Churches euery night but during the whole time of their Lent they
beset the battlements of their steeples round about with lampes But when their Lent is ended they burne lampes in their stéeples onely once a wéeke and that is on Thursday at night which is the Eue before their Sabboth After we had refreshed our selues héere halfe the day being not yet spent we rode from hence to a poore village called Nebecke or as they pronounce it Nebhkeh where we lodged in an old Cane distant from Hassio 27. miles And vnderstanding at this place that the way that we were to passe on the morrow was full of Arabs and that two daies before many men were found in the way killed by them wée feared to goe any further Yet meeting with company contrarie to expectation March 17. we went forwards and saw no house nor company all the day long besides our selues vntil we came to a village called Cotifey where wee lodged in a very stately new Cane built by Synan Bashaw and not altogether finished This Cane doth far exceed that at Marrah before mentioned for herunto is adioyned a fair new Church and a Bazar that is a Market place where trauellers may buy many good things Heere is also meat for trauellers and prouender for their horses to be had of the founders cost And in the middle of this Cane there is a faire large fountaine of water of hewed stones foure square wherein there is excéeding good water for Trauellers to drinke and chambers for their lodging but if they will haue any beds they must bring them with them or sléepe on the hard ground as most men that trauell that way are wont to doe March 18. From Cotifey we had not much more than 20. miles to Dama●cus The first ten miles was a desart and dangerous way and we hardly escaped danger for an A●a●ian horsman seeing vs come stood as a spie in our way to view our strength and marked euery one of vs very narrowly and what weapons we had and then rode vp an high mountaine as fast as if it had beene plaine ground ●o acquaint his companions what a prey he had found for them Whereupon our Ienesarie cast aside his vpper garment being a gambe●looke and bad vs all make ready our weapons and he himselfe rode before vs with his launce on his shoulders expecting there comming vpon vs suddenly but they hauing esp●ed from the top of the mountaine fifty Ienesarie of Dama●cus at the least with their I●mmoglans comming after vs came not and so by the prouidence of God we escaped their hands The other part of our way to Damascus was a pleasant plain of ten miles in length hauing many fruitfull oillages fine riuers and pleasant gardens thereon At our entrance into this plaine or valley riding downe an hill we beheld the prospect of Damascus ten miles off whither we came about two of the clocke in the afternoone and tooke vp our lodging in the middle of the City at a Cane called in Mou●●●co Cane Nebbe that is the Cane of the Prophet but by the Turkes Cane Haramin where we hired three chambers for our mony and our seruants bought our meat and dressed it themselues as they did also all the rest of the way where we could get any thing To this end we tooke a Cooke with vs and other seruants from A●eppo to dresse our meat and to looke to our horses Héere we met with Frenchmen and other Christians staying for company to go to Ierus●lem At Damascus many Iewish Merchants and Gréekes and others knew some of vs and came to salute vs and present vs with 〈◊〉 good things as they had both wine and bread and 〈◊〉 ●nd fruit c. and lent vs very good beds with sheets and 〈◊〉 surm●●●e 〈…〉 wellou● w●●rie● bod●es March 19. and 20. we staied at Damascus to rest our selues and see the City Of Damascus DAmascus is a most ancient City and as Esay spake of it in his time The head of Aram is Damascus Isa 7. 8. so Damascus is the chiefest City of Syria to this day The situation thereof is most pleasant being built on a plaine ground strongly walled about and a strong Castle therein with many fine riuers running on euery side of it especially Abanah and Pharpar mentioned 2. King 5. which now are diuided into many heads The Turkes say that their Prophet Mahomet was once at Damascus and that when he saw the pleasant situation of it and beheld the stately prospect of it excelling all others that euer he saw before refused to enter into the City lest the pleasantnesse thereof should rauish him and moue him there to settle an earthly Paradise and hinder his desire of the heauenly Paradise It hath also many pleasant Orchards and gardens round about the Citie and some waies for the space of a mile and more about the citie there are many Orchards and great varietie of fruites some called Adam apples and Ad●ms figs sundry other strange fruites Damascus is called by the Turkes Sham and they call it the garden of Turkey because there is no place in all the Turkes dominions especially in Syria that yeeldeth such abundance of fruit Heere we stated two daies and three nights to rest our selues and see the Citie And hauing a Greeke to our guide hee ● hewed vs first a stately Muskia or Turkish Church erected in the place where the Temple of Ry●mon stoode mentioned 2 King 5. And two other memorable matters mentioned Act. 9. 25. viz. the place where the Disciples let downe 〈◊〉 the night through the wall in a basket whereof the Christ 〈…〉 Keepe an eract memoriall taking vpon the ●●to demo strate the very place of the wal which we 〈…〉 bek●ing they confirmed it with this reason that Damascus was neuer ouercome and that there haue béene Christians dwelling there euer since the time of Paul and therefore might keepe a memoriall of the very place But to let the place passe the thing it selfe we know to be true He shewed vs also the house of Ananias which is vnder the ground whereinto we were led downe a paire of staires from the stréete as it were into a Celler and the dore being vnlocked wee entred with candels into the place where wee sawe two darke chambers where a man cannot see to reade in the day time without candels here they say he liued in secret for feare of the Iewes Many Christians comming thither to sée that place with a coale write their names on the wall and there are so many names there already that there is scarce roome for any other to set his name Some of them report Damascus to be built in the place where Kain killed his brother Abel And some say it is néere it and offered to bring vs to the place but we refused They take vpon them also at Damascus to demonstrate the place where S. George was buried so they do likewise at Aleppo but I thinke the one to be as true as the other There is a
Ierusalem or walked for our pleasure vp and downe All the rest of the daies of our continuance there wee had our guide with vs who had dwelt there fourteen yeeres and shewed vs all such places as are worthy viewing or visiting both in Ierusalem and many miles round about Ierusalem and we gaue him the hearing of all but did not beleeue all for they seemed to me to be of three sorts viz. 1 Either apparant Truths 2 Manifest Vntruths 3 Or things Doubtfull Those I account apparant Truths which I could either confirme by reading orie●son The ch●e●est whereof I wil briefly set downe for it were too tedicus to write ●ll referring the rest to me next letters or conference at our good méeting which I hope in good time God will grant vs. Apparant Truths And first of al it séemeth to me a manifest truth that Ierusalem that now it standeth in the same place where the old Ierusalem did not in euery respect for length b bredth but with some difference for whereas we read in the Gospell that they crucified our Sauiour Christ at Golgotha without the Citie néere whereunto there was a new Sepulcher wherein neuer man lay and therein they laid his blessed body Now both Mount Caluari● where Golgotha that is The place of dead mens skuls was and the Sepulcher at least wise the place where the Sepulcher was are all enclosed within the wals of the City which were built by Sultan Solyman or Sultan Selim. So that although some difference there be yet it is not so great but that a man may boldly affirme that part of this City is now in the same place where the old Ierusalem stood and a part thereof somewhat remooued Yet some who haue neuer béene there haue presumed to affirme that no man knoweth the place where old Jerusalem stood and that no signe of the City is to be séene But that the place is still the same it is manifest by the situation thereof which is described in the Scripture to haue beene néere vnto these mountaines Moriah Syon Caluarie Mount Oliuet Bethan●a and Be●●p ●age and not far●e from Bethl●hem which Mountaines and places are there still to be séene and called still by the same names And whereas they say no signe of the City is to bée séene grounding their assertion upon a place of Scripture falsly applied and say that Christ promised to destroy Ierusalem and not to leaue one 〈◊〉 vpon another that should not be ouerthrowen If they read the place Luke 21. 6. they shall finde that spoken of the Temple which they apply vnto the City And I doe verily pe●swade nay selfe that euen in Jerusalem that now is there are stones vpon stones yet leaft which we●e neuer ouerthrowen since the first building of the City for on the foundation of the wals in many places especially towards Mount Oliue● there are yet stones to be seene which both for quantity and quality may be thought to haue beene there euer since the beginning for they are of huge length and bredth and of a blacke colour like whereunto I neuer saw any in any other place of all my trauels And ouer these old stones the vpper part of the wals are a new building differing both in colour and quantity from the foundation stones But of the Temple it is true which our sauiour Christ spake Luk. 21. 6. For when as the Prophets denounced Gods iudgements vnto the Iewes vnlesse they repented they flattered themselues in their sinnes and cried Templum Domini Templum Domini The Temple of the Lord The Temple of thy Lord. But through their prophanation they made the Temple of the Lord a Denne of Théeues They cried Lord Lord but they did not his will on whom they cried For swéet grapes they yeelded sowre for hearty and sincere seruice hypocriticall and painted shewes of Religion Their glory was in the externall beauty of their materiall Temple They wondred at the stones and goodly buildings at the gorgeous furniture and pretious gifts wherewith it was both outwardly and inwardly adorned and enriched Whereupon our Sauiour to take away the cause of this vaine hope and foolish ioy tooke occasion thus to Prophecie of that glorious Temple Are these the things that you looke vpon The daies will come wherein there shall not be left a stone vpon a stone which shall not bee destroied This Prophecie was as euidently accomplished as it was made for thirty eight yéeres after they had crucified Christ their promised Messias the Lord of glory God raised vp the seruants of his wr●th Vespatian and Titus Emperours of Rome who beseeged conquered and razed their Ierusalem made hauocke of the people as of dogges murdered eleuen hundred thousand man woman and childe of that cursed Nation Then was fulfilled they cry of those crucifiers His blood be vpon our heads and vpon our children It hath béene and shall be for euer Yea the violence of the Romans procéeded further and pulled downe the Temple and laid it flat with the ground insomuch that according to the expresse words of our Sauiours Prophecie they left not one stone vpon another The Iewes sundry times hauing obtained leaue of Iulian the Apostata attempted to build it vp againe but it would not be for what their hand builded in the day the hand of the Lord most miraculously hurled downe and burnt with lightning by night the foundation thereof being shaken with earth-quakes And at this present day there is built in the place thereof a Muskia or Turkish Church whereunto no Christian may haue accesse It is not in the forme of Salomons Temple but after the manner of their Turkish buildings Not for the seruice of the true God but of the false Prophet Mahomet Vnto the truth also of sundry other particulars which they shewed vs doe I subscribe And first of all that at Beth-lehem sixe miles from Ierusalem is the very place where our Sauiour Christ was borne although now honoris gratia they haue made it more beautifull being built of marble at the cost of Queene Helena the mother of Constantine whome some report to haue béene an English woman borne at Colechester who hath there also erected a stately Church which to this day is very well kept They told vs also that S. Hierome dwelt there which cannot be denied From Beth-lehem we rode seuen miles further to the desart of Ziph or wildernesse of Iudah where Dauid hid himselfe when he was persecuted be Saul We went also to the hill Countrie of Iudea where the virgine Mary saluted Elizabeth the wife of Zacharias mother of Iohn Baptist being great with child and at her salutation the babe sprung in her belly From thence wee rode further to the wildernesse of Iudaea where Iohn Baptist preached and in the middle of the descending of a mountaine they shewed vs a chamber hewen out of a liuely rocke foure square with a dore and a window and a place for his bed and table