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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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the way being very slipperie and so we rode one most long Dutch mile to Bersena The ninth day we rode three most long miles to Bergo I meane Dutch miles for I had no other companions but Dutch who reckon the way after their owne miles This day wee passed infamous places for robberies especially one where 5 waies leade to 5 wooddie Mountaines and here we did see theeues being our selues in safetie they hauing no meanes to come to vs in a Plaine so couered with snow that our Horses were vpto the saddles therein and could hardly passe the high way After dinner we rode two most long Dutch miles to Griguo The tenth day we rode two Dutch miles to Primolano the first Village in the State of Venice but from the foresaid confines of the Empire to this place all the Territorie belonged to diners Gentlemen neither subiect to the Empire nor to the State of Venice but liuing free onely acknowledging to hold their land from the Arch-Dukes of Austria Also beyond Primolane subiect to the State of Venice there is a Fort built betweene a narrow passage of two Mountaines which Fort is very little but hangeth ouer the high way being built on the side of a Mountaine and this Fort is kept by Dutch Souldiers It hath no Gate but they that will goe forth must be let downe by a rope and they that will enter it must in like sort be drawne vp Moreouer before dinner we rode from Primolano one Dutch mile to Carpanella and at our setting forth from Primolan wee passed ouer a Bridge vnder which was little water for the present but when the snow melts from the Mountaines or any great raine falles the waters there are high and violent and some moneth past when the Carrier of Augspurg and his consorts could no way passe the same they told vs that an English Gentleman impatient of delay and trying to passe the same was drowned and that his body was found after somefew daies when it had been spoiled of a gold chaine and store of Crownes they being vnknowne who got this bootie and that he was at first buried in a Chappell but after taken vp by the Priests and buried in the high way when they heard he was an Englishman and thereupon suspected him to be an heritike For the building of this bridge each of vs payed two creitzers in the next Village In our mornings iourney the way was narrow betweene Mountaines and we might see and heare Mountaines of dissolued snow drawing with them huge stones to fall with great noise into the high way before vs and into other adioyning Vallyes After dinner we rode through a plane tilled after the manner of Lombardy three Dutch miles and a halfe to the Castle Franco The twelfth day we rode three Dutch miles to the Citie Treuigi through a like Plaine After dinner for I haue formerly described Treuigi we rode two Dutch miles or ten Italian miles through a like Plaine to Mestre From hence we passed by water to Venice being fiue miles first in a Ditch each man paying one soldo for his passage then in other boats ouer the Lakes wherewith Venice is compassed each man paying three soldi for his passage I omit to speake any thing of Venice which I haue formerly described We being now to take our purposed iourney into the Turkes Dominions thought it best first to goe to Constantinople where the English Ambassadour giuing vs a Ianizare for our guide we hoped the rest of our iourney would be pleasant and void of all trouble For this Ianizare aswell for their wonted faithfulnesse to those that giue them wages as for the account he was to make of our safetie to the said Ambassadour no doubt would haue been a faithfull guide to vs. But when we inquired of the way from Raguza to Constantinople by land all the Postes and Messengers passing that way told vs that the warre of Hungarie made all those parts full of tragedies and miserie Then we thought to goe by Sea to Constantinople but when wee heard that no ship would be had in three moneths at least that long delay was hatefull to vs. Too late after my returne by experience in my iourney and conference I found a third way namely by Sea from Venice to Zant and from that Iland taking the Councell of the English Merchants there to Petrasso seated vpon the Corinthian Creeke of the Sea in Peloponesus a Prouince of Greece called by the Turkes Morea then to take a Ianizare from the English Consul there residing and with him to passe by land to Athens and by Sea in little Barkes from thence to Constantinople The fourth way was not vnknowne to vs namely to goe by Sea to Cyprus as wee did and in the same ship to haue passed to Scanderona and there taking a Ianizare from the English Factor maintained there by our Merchants of Haleppo to haue passed vnder his conduct by Sea to Ierusalem Or else to haue gone from Scanderona to Haleppo and there taking a Ianizare of the English Consul and obtaining letters from the Italians to recommend the care of vs and our safetie to the Guardian of the Monastery of the Latin Church in Ierusalem which our Merchants would easily haue obtained for vs to haue passed from thence by land to Ierusalem But when wee imparted at Cyprus this our purpose to the Consorts of our iourney from Venice thither who were then hiring a Barke to passe from Ciprus to Ioppa whence they had but fortie miles to Ierusalem they were very desirous of our company and with great earnestnesse gaue vs confidence that they would procure the said Guardian and Fryers at Ierusalem to doe vs all courtesie in their power and so perswaded vs to commit our selues to their company and protection I will adde for the instruction of others that the said Ianizare vseth to be hired for eight Aspers a day and if he take this charge of any mans safetie from an Ambassadour or any Christian Officer of account hee will easily saue a man more then his wages in gouerning his expences and keeping him from those extortions which the Turkes vse to doe vpon Christians as also from all their iniuries But I returne to the purpose We lying at Venice and while our health was yet sound and our Crownes vnspent desiring with all possible speede to finish our voyage into Turky did by good hap light vpon French consorts for our iourney namely two Franciscan Friers one Eremitan Frier and two honest young Frenchmen both Citizens of Bloys in France and one of them a Burgers sonne the other a Notarie of the Citie and lastly a Flemming or Dutchman Citizen of Emden in East Freezeland This Fleming was a fat man borne to consume victuals he had now spent in his iourny to Venice thirty pound sterling and here for his iourney to Ierusalem had already put into the ship full Hogs-heads of Wine and store of all victuals when
they were a free State and the building is not vnlike to the Italian Castles It was now kept by a Turkish Agha and Garrison hauing great store of short Iron Ordinance of a huge boare lying at the Gate for terrour of the people I remember that when wee walked after Sunne set vpon the top of the Latine Monastery as those of Asia walke vpon their houses this Agha sent a souldier to vs commanding vs to goe from beholding the Castle or else he would shoote at vs whom we presently obeyed Thus they suspect Christians and suffer them not to enter this Citie with Armes but narrowly search their baggage 3 The Gate of Ioppa Zaffa or Griaffa in some sort fortified where for terrour to the Christians they haue planted some Ordinance for the other Gates haue none neither are fortified at all and all the Christians enter at this Gate 4 The Gate of Mount Sion no whit fortified and newly built as it seemes by the Turkes as also that of Ioppa is 5 The ruines of the house or Pallace of the High Priest Caiphas where they shew a place with a pillar vpon which the Cock crowed when Peter denied Christ and a place where the fire was made at which Peter warmed himselfe and a tree in the place where he denied Christ finally a narrow prison in which Christ was shut vp till the day brake and so he was led to Pilate And the Sect of the Armenian Christians keepes this monument 6 The old Monasterie of the Latine Christians called il Santo Cenacolo which the Turkes haue taken from the Christians and turned to a Mahumetan Mosche or Church and no Christian may enter this place kept by the Santons or Turkish Priests except he will giue an vnreasonable reward which giuen yet he is not free from danger if other Turkes see him enter Here Christ did wash his Apostles feete did eate his last Supper with them did appeare to them after his Resurrection the doores being shut and againe after eight dayes appeared to Thomas doubting Here the holy Ghost descended vpon the Apostles and the Apostle Matthew was chosen by lot The Italian Monastery noted with the figure 33 hath all these representations painted and to these pictures the Pope hath giuen as large indulgences for Papists as if they had seene the other places from which the Turkes keepe them as vnwashed dogges The Sepulcher of Dauid is not sarre from this place kept by the Turkes forbidding entrie to the Christians And here they shew the ruines of the Tower of Dauid or of his Pallace on the South side of the Church-yard giuen to Christians of Europe for buriall in the same place where Dauid of old droue out the Iebuzites In like sort on the South side of this old Monastery is the place where they say the Virgin Mary died 7 Here they shew a place where the Iewes stroue in vaine to take the body of the Virgin Mary from the hands of the Apostles as they carried it to be buried in the Valley of Iehosophat 8 The Caue wherein they say Peter vsed to bewaile the denying of Christ. 9 Here they say the Apostles hid themselues whilst Christ suffered on the Crosse. 10 Here they shew the field Acheldamus bought by the Iewes for a buriall place with the thirtie pence Iudas brought back to them And here looking into a huge caue of the Mountaine we did see infinite whole bodies imbalmed of dead men and standing vpright And this place is giuen for buriall to the Christians of Asia 11 the Gate Sterquilinea at which the filth of the Citie is carried out and cast into the Brooke Cedron And Christ betraied by Iudas was brought into the Citie by this Gate as they say which Gate is old and nothing lesse then fortified 12 The Gate by which the Virgin Marie entring into the outer Temple is said to haue offered Christ then an Infant to the hands of Simion which Gate they say in honour of our Redeemer was shut vp by the Christian Kings and so remaines to this day 13 The outer Temple where they say Christ was exhibited to Simion and the Italians call it the Temple of the Presentation 14 In this large circuit compassed all with walles of old the Temple of Salomon stood At this day it was ouer-growne with grasse and in the middest thereof the Turkes had a Mosche for their wicked worship of Mahomet neither may any Christian come within this circuit much lesse into the Mosche either being a capitall offence which they say some curious Christians had tried with losse of life after they had been drawne to enter into it by some Turkes vaine promises 15 The golden Gate at which Christ entered on Palme-Sunday shut vp by the Christian Kings and so remaining 16 Probatica Piscina without the Gate of the Temple where the Angell troubling the waters the first diseased man that entred them was healed It was at this time dried vp 17 The beautifull Gate where Peter and Iohn made the man walke who was lame from his mothers wombe 18 Salomons house of old hauing a Gate leading into the Temple and it is now inhabited by the Turkish Cady who hath an Episcopall office Here I did see pleasant Fountaines of waters and did looke into the circuit where the Temple stood through an Iron grate when the said Magistrate called vs before him And I remember we were bidden put off our shooes before we entred in to him where hee sat vpon a Carpet spread vpon the ground with his legges crossed like a Tailor and his shooes of as the Turkes vse 19 This Gate of old had the name of the Droues of cattell brought in for sacrifices but at this day is called the Gate of Saint Stephen because the Iewes drew out that Protomartyr by this Gate and so stoned him 20 Heere they say was the house of Anna wherein shee bare the Virgin Marie 21 The Gate of Damasco of old called the Gate of Ephraim 22 The house of Pontius Pilate in which the Turkish Sangiaco who is the military Gouernour of the City and Prouince did then dwell so as no Christian might come into the house without giuing a reward The Fryars say that in this house are heard noises whippings and sighes nightly to this very time and each man the more superstitious he is the more incredible things he tels thereof They say that the staires vpon which Christ ascended when he was brought to Pilate were long since carried to Rome and these be the staires which I said the Romans call Holy vulgarly Scale Sante and doe worship with great superstition They be of marble but for my part let euery man beleeue as he list whither they were brought from thence and be the same staires that Christ ascended or not Onely I am sure that here they shew the place void in the very streete where staires haue beene of old yet must I needs say that marble staires ill befit the poore building
of this house Here the Souldiers spoiled our Redeemer of his garments and in scorne attired him with purple 23 The Arch of Pilate which is a gallery of bricke built ouer the street from one wall to another whence Pilate shewed Christ to the people saying behold the man doe with him what you will 24 Here they say the Virgin Mary fell downe fainting when Christ was led to Mount Caluary 25 Here they say that Christ fainting the Iewes tooke his Crosse and laied it vppon Symon of Cyren 26 The Pallace of King Herod 27 Here they say Christ vttered these words Daughters of Syon weepe not for me weepe for your selues c. 28 Here they say the rich glutton dwelt and not farre hence they shew the house where Mary Magdalen washed Christs feete with her teares and dried them with the haires of her head 29 Here they say Veronica dwelt and that this woman gaue her white hand-kercher to Christ when he did sweat blood who wiping his face therewith left the liuely print of it therein about which hand-kercher the Romans and the Spaniards contend both saying that they haue it and shewing it for an holy relike to the people 30 The Gate of old called Iudiciall now not extant by which Christ was led to Mount Caluary to be crucified for this mountaine now inclosed within the wals was then without the wals And the way from the house of Pontius Pilate noted with the figures 22 to this gate is called the dolorous way by the Italian Christians because Christ was led by it to his passion 31 The prison from whence the Angell brought Peter breaking his chaines and opening the iron doore and it is seated vnder the ruines of the Pallace which since that time belonged to the Knights of Ierusalem 32 The Church which the Christians built ouer the Sepulcher of Christ of which I will after write more largely making a rude Mappe thereof as I haue done of the City 33 The Monastery of the Franciscan Friars in which we did Iodge being seated on the highest part of Mount Caluary which since hath beene called the Mount of our holy Sauiour And this is called the new Monastery in respect of the old noted with the figure 6 and onely hath the monuments of the old painted to the visiting whereof the Pope hath giuen large indulgences The Franciscan Friars conducting vs shewed vs some other monuments within the wals And not farre from the gate of Syon noted with the figure 4 they shewed vs 34 the house of the High Priest Anna where Christ was examined by the Pharises and there they shewed vs an Oliue tree which must needs be old to which they say Christ was bound 35 The Church of the Apostle Saint Iames whom the Spaniards call Saint Iames of Gallicia and worship for their protecting Saint who was called Iames the greater and they say was here beheaded This Church is stately built for the pouerty of the Armenians who built it and maintained there an Archbishoppe to keepe it and to performe there the rites of their religion 36 The place where they say Christ appeared to the three Maries dwelling together vpon the very day of his resurrection where the Christians built three Churches which the Turks haue conuerted to 3 Moschees yet bearing no reuerence to the place because they beleeue not that Christ died and much lesse beleeue that he rose againe 37 The house of the Euangelist Saint Marke mentioned in the twelfth Chapter of the Acts. This is the house of Mary the Mother of Iohn surnamed Marke whither Peter came when the Angell deliuered him out of prison into which Herod had cast him noted with the figure 31 At this day there was an obscure Church kept by the Syrian Priests 38 Here they shew the Iron gate which Peter found miraculously opened and by the same entring into the other City came to the house of Saint Marke We going out at Saint Steuens Gate towards the East descended into the vally of Iehosaphat and here they say 39 the bridge stood by which the Queene of Saba passed ouer the Brooke Cedron and that the Crosse of Christ was made of the wood of this bridge 40 In this place they say the Protomartyre Saint Steuen was stoned 41 This smal line without the Easterne gates shewes the bed of the brook Cedron or Kidron which is very narrow hauing not at this time one drop of water so as we passed ouer the stony bed with drie feet But of old when Ierusalem flourished and had many conduits of water drawne to it then it is probable that it was filled with water And at this day when any rainefals the water runnes swiftly from the mountaines on the North side according to this blacke line through the most pleasant vally of Iehosaphat This vally extendeth it selfe on both sides of this brooke some two Italian miles in length but is very narrow and it hath on the West side the wals of the City where Salomons Temple stood vpon the lower part of the Mount Moriah and it hath vpon the East side the most high Mount Oliuet and it hath on the North side mountaines somewhat but not farre distant from the City and vpon the South-side mountaines a little more distant Many interpret the Prophet Ioell in his third Chapter and second verse as if Gods Tribunall at the day of iudgement should stand in this vally and thereupon the Iewes when they die in remote parts will be brought to be buried in this vally for the expedition of their triall But the best Diuines doe teach that the word Iehosaphat signifies the Iudgement of the Lord and that the Prophet may be interpreted figuratiuely namely that as the Lord often defeated with great slaughters the enemies of his Church in this valley so in the day of iudgement he will strike the wicked vvith like confusion 42 Beyond the Brooke is a stately Sepulcher for the most part vnder the earth into which we descended by some fiftie staires and about the middle descent on the left hand towards the City vnder an Altar lie the bodies of Ioseph and Ioachimus and on the right hand the body of Anna namely of the Husband Father and Mother of the Virgin Marie In the bottome is a Church in the middle whereof vnder a stone raised some few feete from the ground they say the Apostles buried the Virgin Mary This Church so they call all places where they haue Altars to sing Masses is very darke hauing no light but by one window or vent made through the earth and vpon this monument lies part of the bed of the Brook Cedron On the right hand the Turks who greately reuerence the monuments of Christ while he liued haue made themselues an Oratory But for the monument it selfe the Franciscan Friers of the Latin Church haue alone the priuiledge to keepe the same and the Altar thereof for their singing of Masses 43 Here is a Caue at the foote
and returne into England If any say we spent lauishly let him know that my dearest brothers death and my necessary stay thereupon and a desperate sickenesse into which I fell vpon griefe very much increased the said expences Adde that I being pressed with these miseries had now spent all the money we brought in our purses and then suffered great losse by the money taken vpon exchange to be paid in England and being weake after my sickenesse was forced much to increase my charge by taking a seruant to wait vpon me From which extraordinary mischiefes God deliuer all that vndertake this iourney and yet I am deceiued if the ordinary burthens will not seeme more then enough heauy to them But I returne to the relation of my iourney It is the Mariners fashion that being to goe to Sea they will affirme they set sayle presently that the Merchants and passengers may bring their goods on board which done they will not easily take them out againe though that ship after long delaies should goe last out of the Hauen Therefore wee kept our goods in our lodging still inquiring after the Scriuano who dwelt hard by vs and when he professed seriously that hee would take shippe the next day then we presently shipped our prouisions So on Friday the 19 of Aprill after the new stile in the yeere 1596 we together with the Patron our Master went aboard And the Patron returned that night to Venice but we lodged in the ship The Patron had some monethspast promised me and my brother that we should set our chests vpon which we were to rest aboue the hatches hard by the sterne where the shippe being great wee had commodity to set them in a place couered ouer the head but open on the side towards the prowe and this place was close at the other end lying at the very doore of the Patrons cabbin where he slept and laid his priuate goods And this place seemed to me very pleasant and fit to rest in since we were couered from raine and the winds blew commonly vpon the sterne while we were at sea for we sayled commonly with a fore wind the winds being more constant in that sea at set seasons of the yeere then in our seas and for the time of our abiding in Hauens and otherwise in that calme sea if the winds were contrary yet in summer time and in a clime so neere the AEquinoctial line we could receiue no hurt but rather pleasure by their coolenesse Besides being thus parted from the Mariners we were free from lice and all filthinesse wherewith the French-men our consorts were much annoied who slept vnder the hatches and that the rather because they wore woollen stockings wee silke drawne ouer with linnen and they slept in their apparell we only in our doublets and linnen breeches and stockings which doublets of ours were lined with taffetie wherein lice cannot breed or harbour so as howsoeuer I wore one and the same doublet till my returne into England yet I found not the leaft vncleanlinesse therein And giue me leaue to ioy in my good fortune as the common sort speake Namely that the taffety lining of my doublet being of greene colour which colour none may weare vpon great danger but onely they who are of the line and stocke of Mahomet of whom I could challenge no kindred yet it hapened that by sleeping in my doublet aswell by land as by sea no Turke euer perceiued this my errour Neither did I vnderstand by any Christian no not by our English Merchants at Haleppo in what danger I was for the same till I came to Constantinople where our English Ambassadour told mee of the strict Law forbidding the vse of this colour and that a poore Christian some few dayes before had been beaten with cudgels at Constantinople and was hardly kept from being killed because ignorantly he wore a paire of greene shoo-strings Whereupon I was yet in feare when all danger was almost past yet would I not cast off my doublet but onely more warily kept the lining from sight till I entred the Greeke ship wherein I passed thence to Venice and so was free from all danger I returne to my purpose The Patron of our ship as I said returned to Venice but we staied in the ship to dispose all our prouisions fitly for the iourney The next day being the twentieth of Aprill after the new stile the Patron Scriuano and all the Merchants came aboard and the following night being cleere our ship was drawne out of Malamocco the Venetian Hauen by little boats fastened to the ship by ropes and making their way with oares for great shippes vse no sayles to goe out of this Hauen Vpon Sunday the 21 of Aprill in the yeere 1596 being thus put to sea wee set saile with a faire winde Then all falling on our knees we prayed vnto God for a happie Voyage kneeling aboue the hatches but praying euery man priuately and silently to himselfe Some write that in the Ships of Venice they vse to pray publikely in Latin euery day after the Roman fashion and some dayes to celebrate Masses but in this our ship the Patron and most of the Marriners were Greekes and onely the Scriuano that is Scribe with some Merchants were Italians and of the Roman Religion Therefore euery day a Bell was rung at prayer time but each man prayed priuately after his owne manner There were besides in the ship many Easterne Christians of diuers Sects and Nations and Turkes and Persians yea very Indians worshipping the Sunne all which at the ringing of this bell to prayer went vnder the hatches My selfe and my brother willingly prayed with them aboue the hatches after the foresaid manner whereof we thought no scruple of conscience to bee made since Greekes prayed with vs as well as Italians and French whose difference in Religion was well knowne to themselues so as this our priuate prayer was voide of all dissimulation And we were glad that no profession of our Religion was imposed vpon vs in regard of our consorts with whom we were to goe to Ierusalem and of the Italians who after our returne might perhaps meete vs in Italy Prayers being ended they vsed a cerimony which I liked well for the sub-Patron giuing the signe with his siluer whistle all the Marriners bareheaded and turning their faces to the East cryed with a loud voyce Buon ' viaggio Buon ' viaggio that is a good voyage and the same signe giuen did cease and againe cried so three times Vpon Tuesday the Patron with the Scriuano standing by him stood vpon the Castle of the ship and made a solemne Oration to the sub-Patron and the Marriners standing vpon the lower hatches whom he admonished how they should behaue themselues and especially to refraine from swearing blasphemy and sodomie vnder great penaltie Then he wrote the names of the Marriners and gaue euery man his charge And lastly turning himselfe to the passengers exhorted them
Citie are seated vpon Mountaines yet lower then any other part of the Citie Vpon the higher part of Mount Sion on the same South side towards the West lie many ruines of houses and it is most certaine that the Tower of Dauid and other famous houses there which are now without the walles were of old inclosed within them and that the City extended somewhat further towards the South then now it doth Yet the Hill of Sion is so compassed with knowne Vallies and those Vallies with high Mountaines as this extent could not be great Ierusalem was of old called Moria where they write that Adam was created of red earth is seated vpon Mount Moriah vpon the top wherof towards the North-west is Mount Caluery where they say that Abraham was ready to sacrifice his sonne Isaac and where without doubt our Sauiour Christ suffered and in the lowest part of this Mountaine the Temple of Salomon was seated The Citie was after called Salem and thirdly Iebus and fourthly Ierusalem and at this day the Turkes haue named it 〈◊〉 It is compassed with stately walles the like whereof I did neuer see of red and blacke stone more then an Elle long and about halfe an Elle broad I call them stately for the antiquitie wherein for the most part they much excell the Roman walles I numbred seuen Gates The first of Damasco of old called the Gate of Ephraim on the North side The second of Saint Stephen on the East side which of old had the name of the beasts for sacrifice brought in that way The third the golden Gate also on the East side which at this day is shut and bricked vp The fourth the Gate of presentation on the South-side leading into the Temple of Salomon but at this day shutvp The fifth Sterquilinea also on the South side so called of the filth there carried out The sixth the Gate of Syon also on the South side neare that part of Mount Syon which at this day is without the walles but this Gate hath been newly built The seuenth of Ioppa towards the West also newly built In generall the Gates are nothing lesse then fortified only as it were to terrifie the Christians who enter at the Gate of Ioppa they haue braggingly fortified the same and planted great Ordinance vpon it And howsoeuer the Citie seemes strong enough against sudden tumults yet it is no way able to hold out against a Christian Army well furnished neither doe the Turkes trust to their Forts but to their forces in field The houses here and in all parts of Asia that I haue seene are built of Flint stone very low onely one storie high the top whereof is plaine and plastered and hath battlements almost a yard high and in the day time they hide themselues within the chamber vnder this plastered floare from the Sunne and after Sunne-set walke eate and sleepe vpon the said plastred floare where as they walke each one may see their neighbours sleeping in bed or eating at table But as in the heate of the day they can scarce indure to weare linnen hose so when the Syren or dew falls at night they keepe themselues within dores till it be dried vp or else fling some garment ouer their heads And with this dew of the night all the fields are moistened the falling of raine being very rare in these parts towards the Equinoctiall line and in this place particularly happening onely about the month of October about which time it falles sometimes with great force by whole pales full The houses neare the Temple of Salomon are built with arches into the streete vnder which they walke drie and couered from the Sunne as like wife the houses are built in that sort in that part of the Citie where they shew the house of Herod in both which places the way on both sides the streete is raised for those that walke on foote lying low in the middest for the passage of laded Asses In other parts the Citie lies vninhabited there being onely Monasteriesof diuers Christian Sects with their Gardens And by reason of these waste places and heapes of Flint lying at the dores of the houses and the low building of them some streetes seeme rather ruines then dwelling houses to him that lookes on them neere hand But to them who behold the Citie from eminent places and especially from the most pleasant Mount Oliuet abounding with Oliues and the highest of all the Mountaines the prospect of the Citie and more specially of the Churches and Monasteries which are built with eleuated Glòbes couered with brasse or such glistering mettall promiseth much more beauty of the whole Citie to the beholders eyes then indeed it hath The circuit of the walles containeth some two or three Italian miles All the Citizens are either Tailors Shoomakers Cookes or Smiths which Smiths make their keyes and lockes not of Iron but of wood and in generall poore rascall people mingled of the scumme of diuers Nations partly Arabians partly Moores partly the basest inhabitants of neighbour Countries by which kind of people all the adioyning Territorie is likewise inhabited The Iewes in Turky are distinguished from others by red hats and being practicall doe liue for the most part vpon the sea-coasts and few or none of them come to this Citie inhabited by Christians that hate them and which should haue no traffique if the Christian Monasteries were taken away Finally the Inhabitants of Ierusalem at this day are as wicked as they were when they crucified our Lord gladly taking all occasions to vse Christians despitefully They esteemed vs Princes because wee wore gloues and brought with vs shirts and like necessaries though otherwise we were most poorely appareled yet when we went to see the monuments they sent out their boyes to scorne vs who leaped vpon our backes from the higher parts of the streete we passing in the lower part and snatched from vs our hats and other things while their fathers were no lesse ready to doe vs all iniuries which we were forced to beare silently and with incredible patience Hence it was that Robert Duke of Normandy being sicke and carried into Ierusalem vpon the backs of like rascalls when he met by the way a friend who then was returning into Europe desiring to know what hee would command him to his friends hee earnestly intreated him to tell them that he saw Duke Robert caried into heauen vpon the backs of Diuels The description of the Citie and the Territorie Now followes the explication of the Citie described and first the small Line drawne within the present walles on the West side of the Citie shewes the old walles thereof before Mount Caluery was inclosed within the walles by the Christian Kings for now there remaine no ruines of the old walles this line being onely imaginarie 1 Mount Sion without the walles for part of it is yet inclosed with them 2 The faire Castle which was built by the Pisans of Italy while yet
And in the very Sepulcher the burning Lampes giue light besides that the dores lye open And because raine must needes fall from the open Globe the Sepulcher hath a couer borne vp with pillars of Marble and laid ouer with Lead to receiue the raine The Sepulcher within and without is beautified with marble and was cut out of a Rocke before the Church was built The Franciscan Friers are for the most part Italians but are vulgarly called Francks of the French who are in league with the Turkish Ottoman and they haue the priuiledge of singing their Masses in the Sepulcher not of free grant but because they are best able to pay for their priuiledges yet it is free for any of the Christian Sects to come into the Sepulcher They say that from the situation of this Sepulcher the custome came among Christians to be buried with their feet face towards the East as expecting the resurrection V A Chappell kept by the Sect of the Gofti X The Sepulchers of Ioseph of Arimathea and of Nicodemus Y The Chappell of the Iacobites Z The Chappell of the Abissines X The Chappell of the Armenians X X The Chappell of the Georgians Some write that this Church hath the forme of a Crosse and if the retreat or chambers of the Italian Friers with the Chappell of Aparition on the North side and the two Towers of the Belfrey on the South side be ioyntly considered with the Church which seeme rather-fastned thereunto then of the same building a superstitious man may faigne to himselfe the figure of a Crosse but shall reuer plainely demonstrate it to others Aboue the roofe of the Church on the outside are two faire Globes whereof the greater couered with leade lies ouer the Sepulcher and the lesse all made of stone is ouer the Chauncell And this greater Globe on the inside of the Church is beautified with engrauen Ceder trees and borlie vp with pillars of Marble and the lesse hath faire pictures of the foresaid rich painting shining like enameled worke The breadth of the Church vnder both Globes containes seuentie paces and the length 140 paces and in generall as well within as without it retaines only the shaddow of the old magnificence We entred the Church on Tuesday in the afternoone and were locked there in all the night following and almost all the next day to fulfill our deuotions But I formerly said that the Italian Friers haue chambers of retreat within the Church in which we did eate and rest at our pleasure Yet these chambers and the like retreats wherein the Priests of other Sects with their wiues children and family doe lodge and eate and performe the rites of their Religion haue not any one dore into the streete but all enter the Church and goe forth by the foresaid onely dore of the Church towards the South and the key of this dore is kept by the Turkes who open it at set times to admit strangers and once euery weeke to let the Friers returne to their Monasteries and to receiue new Friers into the Church which are sent from thence to performe the feuerall rites of Religion And this dore hath a grate or little window at which the inclosed Friers may talke with their friends without and receiue meate sent them from their Monasteries Nine sundry Sects of Christians haue their Monasteries within this City by whom the great Turke and his officers haue great profit and the Turkes them selues repute all the monuments and places holy which Christ in his life frequented but this monument of his death and other like they despise and keepe them onely for their profit From the said Monasteries Friers are weekely sent to performe their seuerall rites and at the weekes end they are recalled to the Monasteries and new sent in their place which custome I thinke they take from the Iewes For when Dauid diuided the twentie foure Families of the sonnes of Aaron into twentie foure courses that each of them might one after the other in due order performe the holy offices in the Temple Iosephus writes that these courses or Families in order one after the other liued in the Temple from Sabbath to Sabbath to performe those duties Of these nine Christian Sects each hath priuiledges to keepe this or that monument within the Citie and in the field in which places they performe the rites of their Religion And according to the number of the Sects they maintaine nine Lampes continually burning in the foresaid common Church vpon the stone of Vnction as many vpon the Sepulcher and as many vpon Mount Caluarie The nine Sects are thus called Franks namely the Italians Georgians Greekes Sorians Costi Abissines Armenians Nestorians and Maronites The Religion of the Frankes namely Papists is so well knowne as I will omit it here and referre it to his due place I will onely say that they haue the keeping of the Sepulcher the Chappell of A parition and therein of the pillar of whipping and of one Altar vpon Mount Caluarie for the performance of their rites The Georgians are a warlike Nation inhabiting Media and the Caspian Mountaines and haue their name of Saint George whom they haue chosen their protecting Saint They haue a King and making warre valiantly sometimes vpon the Turkes sometimes vpon the Persians could neuer bee conquered by either Yea if they bee oppressed by either they easily finde helpe from the other out of their mutuall hatred Therfore they pay no tribute to the Turkes but by singular priuiledge freely enter into Ierusalem armed and with banner displaied Neither dare the Turkes offer them the least iniurie lest when they returne home they should reuenge it vpon the Turkes lying neare them Their very women are warlike like the Amazons and carrying bowes shew valour both in countenance and behauiour The men weare long haire on their heads and beards saue that they all are shauen like Clerkes vpon the Crowne of the head the Lay-men in a foure-square the Priests in a round forme They expresly follow the Religion Rites and Ceremonies of the Greekes and in their Diuine seruice vse the Greeke tongue otherwise speaking their owne language as I thinke Caldean These in the Church of Ierusalem haue the keeping of Mount Caluary and the Altar there built ouer the place where they say the Crosse of Christ stood and in the Citie they keepe the house of the High Priest Annas Of the Greekes Religion I must speake at large in his due place Now I will onely say that in the Church they keepe the Chauncell and therein shew a hole in the pauement compassed with Marble which they say is the very middle point of the world Against which opinion I argued with them and obiected that the earth is round and that in a Globe the center is in the middest all centers in the outside being but imaginarie and to be placed wheresoeuer the measurer will Also that in measuring after their manner the
Damascus and Haleppo yet the City of Tripoli still yeelds foure hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Great Turke It may seeme incredible but it is most certaine that here and throughout Syria they haue sheepe of such bignes as the very tailes of them hanging in many wreathes to the ground doe weigh twenty fiue pounds and many times thirty three pounds A Christian who vseth to entertaine the French did very well intreat vs here and when I did see a bed made for me and my brother with cleane sheetes I could scarcely containe my selfe from going to bed before supper because I had neuer lien in naked bed since I came from Venice to this day hauing alwaies slept by sea and land in my doublet with linnen breeches and stockings vpon a mattresse and betweene couerlets or quilts with my breeches vnder my head But after supper all this ioy vanished by an euent least expected For in this part of Asia great store of cotten growes as it were vpon stalkes like Cabbage as I formerly said in my iourney from Ioppa to Ierusalem and these sheetes being made thereof did so increase the perpetuall heat of this Countrey now most vnsupportable in the summer time as I was forced to leape out of my bed and sleepe as I had formerly done My Host told me a strange thing namely that in Alexandria of AEgypt seated vpon one of the mouthes of the Riuer Nilus there was a Doue-cote that also at Cairo or Babylon farre within the Land of AEgypt there was another Doue-cote and because it much concernes the Merchants to haue speedy newes of any commodity arriuing he assured mee that they vsed to tie letters about the neckes of the Doues at Alexandria and so to let them loose which Doues hauing formerly bred in the Doue-cote at Cayro did flie thither most swiftly and the Keeper of them there taking the Letters they brought vsed to deliuer them to the Merchants This I beleeued not till I came to Haeleppo and telling it for a fable to the English Merchants there they seriously affirmed the same to be true Moreouer the Host of Tripoli told me newes from Constantinople namely that the Greekes had burnt great part of the City which he thought to be false and onely inuented to oppresse them in other parts and that the Ianizaries had raised a great tumult against the Subasha of the City who vsed great seuerity towards them by restraining them from drinking wine and from keeping harlots and that some one hundred of these seditious Ianizaries were drowned in the Heuen and the rest were daily sought out to be punished Moreouer that Halil Basha the Admirall of Turkey was parted from Constantinople with sixty Gallies hauing taken many Greeke and Armenian Christians by force to row in his Gallies besides that for want of Marriners he had left there twenty Gallies which were prepared to keepe that narrow sea Finally that the Great Turke was presently to goe with his Army into Hungary but was not yet departed from the City Now the French-men our consorts went aboard a ship of Marsiles to returne into France But my selfe and my brother being to goe by Land to Haleppo agreed to giue our Muccaro nine piastri for two Asses to ride vpon and their meate and for three tributes called cafarri which he was to pay for vs by the way comming to some twenty meidines They call him Muccaro who lets out Mules Asses or Horses and they call him Malem who conducts the Merchants goods Moreouer we were forced to giue a suger-loafe to the value of a Zechine to the Gouernour of the City and a Piastro to the Scribe or Clerke of the City for the priuiledge to goe without a Ianizare to conduct vs so they pretended omitting no occasions to extort from Christians But we couenanted not to pay the nine piastri to our Muccaro till our iourney was ended onely giuing one piastro into his hands for earnest and pretending that we would pay the rest at Haleppo where we were to receiue money left they thinking that we had store of crowns with vs should practise any treason or oppression against vs. This Piastro we gaue him in hand to buy meat for his beasts and the other eight we paid after at Haleppo and besides gaue him of free gift a zechine for his faithfull seruice to vs by the way We were to take our iourney with the Carauan going from Tripoli to Haleppo The Turkes call a Carauan the company of Merchants passengers and driuers of loaded Camels keeping together for safety against Theeues and vsing to lodge in the open field For in Turkey they make iourneies in great troopes neither did I euer see any ride alone but onely a horseman of the Armie and that very rarely Vpon Saturday the two and twentie of Iune we went out of Tripoli at the North Gate and passed ouer a Bridge of the foresaid Brooke and from eight of the clocke till Noone we passed along the Sea-shoare and ouer high Mountaines then ouer an vntilled Plaine seeing not one Village nor so much as the least house by the way Then at last comming to a little shade of Fig-trees we rested there the heate of the day and fed vpon such victuals as we had while our Muccaro and the rest gaue meate to their beasts At three of the clock in the after-noone we went forward in the like way and late in the euening we came to a Village neere which we lodged in the open field in a pleasant plot of grasse neere the banke of a Riuer planted with some trees Vpon Sunday wee rose early and for two howers space passed a Promontory of the Sea then turning towards the Land wee passed through wilde and vntilled Hilles and plaine fields and at Noone we rested vnder the shaddow of some Brambles refreshing our selues with meate and sleepe and giuing meate to our Asses At three in the afternoone wee went forward and passed by the Castle Huss in which some say Iob dwelt and which they say was possessed by the French while they had the Kingdome of Ierusalem Also we passed by a Monastery of Saint George then possessed by Christian Friers and seated in a pleasant Valley yeelding trees of Figs and Oliues And towards euening we incamped as I may terme it in the open field at the foot of a high Mountaine They say Iob did of old possesse this Territorie and that not farre hence in the way leading to Damascus there is a Citie now called Hemps and of old called Huss which the Christian Inhabitants to this day call the Citie of Iob and the Valley not far distant the Valley of Huss and the Turkes haue built a Mosche or Church in this Citie which they thinke to be built vpon the very ruines of the house wherein Iob dwelt and that his body was carried from hence to Constantinople Others obiect that according to the Scriptures Iob could not dwell here because they write
vitae which they call Harach and drinke as largely as Wine for ten meidines foure pounds of wine for one zechine Bisket for the Turkes haue no other bread but cakes baked on the harth for thirty meidines which things we prouided for our Supper and to carry with vs by the way yet might we haue bought and did buy most things by the way excepting Wine and Bread which are hardly found and must be carried by those that will haue them The guide of our Carauan was detained here by his businesse most part of the next day being Wednesday and in the meane time it fortunately happened that a Turkish Basha returning with his traine from his Gouernement and being to goe our way rested here so as his company freed vs the rest of our iourney from feare of theeues Vpon Wednesday in the afternoone we setforward in the company of this Basha and iournied all night in this Plaine wherein there was not the shadow of one tree and at eight of the clock the next morning we did sit downe in the open field resting vnder the ruines of old walles Here the Ianizaries of the Basha inquired curiously after the condition of me and my brother so as our Muccaro aduised vs to giue them halfe a piastro which they receiuing promised to defend vs from all iniury but in the meane time they did so swallow our wine as when it was spent we were forced to drinke water to which we were not vsed Vpon Thursday at three of the clock in the afternoone we set forward and about midnight we came to the Citie Marrha where our Muccaro and diuers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute and at the Citie Gate a man was hanged in chaines also the next day we did see another impalled that is sitting and rotting vpon a stake fastned in the ground and thrust into his fundament and bowels Vpon Friday before day wee set forward and passing a stony barren way but full of Walnut trees vpon which many birds did sit and sing wee came in foure houers space to an Hospitall which they call Caon and it was stately built of stone in a round forme with arches round about the Court-yard vnder which arches each seuerall company chose their place to eate and rest both which they must doe vpon the ground except they bring Tables and beds with them Neither were any victuals there to be sold or dressed but euery man bought his victuals in the Village adioyning and dressed it after his manner The same Friday at foure in the afternoone wee went forward and riding all night did vpon Saturday early in the morning sleepe an hower in the open field while meate was giuen to our beasts Then going forward we came by Noone the same day being the nine and twentie of Iune after the Popes new stile which I haue followed hitherto being in company of Italians and Friers to the famous Citie of Haleppo where the English Merchants liuing in three houses as it were in Colledges entertained my brother and mee very 〈◊〉 And George Dorington the Consul of the English there led vs to the house wherein he liued with other Merchants and there most courteously entertained vs with plentifull diet good lodging and most friendly conuersation refusing to take any money for this our entertainement And howsoeuer wee brought him onely a bill of exchange for one hundred Crownes yet when we complained to him that we now perceiued the same would not serue our turnes hee freely lent vs as much more vpon our owne credit Yea when after my brothers death my selfe fell dangerously sicke and was forced to goe from those parts before I could recouer my health so as all men doubted of my returne into England yet he lent me a farre greater summe vpon my bare word which howsoeuer I duly repayed after my comming into England yet I confesse that I cannot sufficiently acknowledge his loue to mee and his noble consideration of poore and afflicted strangers The Citie Haleppo is said to haue the name of Halep which signifies milke because the Prouince is most fruitfull or of the word Aleph as the chiefe Citie of Syria and to haue been called of old Aram Sohab mentioned the second of Samuel the eight Chapter and third verse or at least to be built not farre from the ruines thereof The Trafficke in this place is exceeding great so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Ilands are brought hither or to Cayro in Egypt And before the Portugals found the way into East India these commodities were all brought from these two Cities And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enioyed all this trafficke of old But after that time the Portugals trading in East India serued all Europe with these commodities selling them yea and many adulterate Druggs at what price they listed cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians At last the French King making league with the great Turke the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke and in our age the English vnder the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth obtained like priuiledge though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians French Merchants And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all other silently enioying the safety and profit of this trafficke vnderstand that when I wrote this the trafficke into the East Indies was nothing at all or very little knowne to the English or Flemmings This City lies within Land the Port whereof called Alexandretta by the Christians and Scanderona by the Turkes I shall hereafter describe The building of this City as of all houses in Syria is like to that of Ierusalem but one roofe high with a plaine top plaistered to walke vpon and with Arches before the houses vnder which they walke dry and keepe shops of wares The City is nothing lesse then well fortified but most pleasantly seated hauing many sweet gardens The aire was so hot as me thought I supped hot broth when I drew it in but it is very subtile so as the Christians comming hither from Scanderona a most vnhealthfull place hauing the aire choaked with Fens continually fall sicke and often die And this is the cause that the English Factors imployed here seldome returne into England the twentieth man scarcely liuing till his prentiship being out he may trade here for himselfe The Christians here and the Turkes at the Christians cost drinke excellent wines where of the white wines grow in that territory but the red wines are brought from Mount Libanus Moreouer all things for diet are sold at cheape rates and indeed the Turkes want not good meat but only good Cookes to dresse it The English Merchants can beare me witnes that these parts yeeld sheepe whereof the taile of one wreathed to the ground doth weigh some thirty or more pounds in fat and wooll In one of the City gates they shew the Sepulcher
of Saint George where the Turkes maintaine Lampes continually burning for among all the Christian Saints they onely reuerence Saint George In a garden of the suburbes I did see a Serpent of wonderfull bignes and they report that the male Serpent and young ones being killed by certaine boyes this shee Serpent obseruing the water where the boyes vsed to drinke did poyson the same so as many of the boyes died thereof and that the Citizens thereupon came out to kill her but seeing her lie with her face vpward as complaining to the Heauens that her reuenge was iust that they touched with a superstitious conceit let her alone finally that this Serpent had liued here many ages and was of incredible yeeres Moreouer they shew a well neere to the City in which they report that a chest of treasure was of old cast so as it might be seene by passengers and that some attempting to take it out were assaulted and affrighted with Diuels In this City my selfe and my brother Henry lay sicke some few daies but by the helpe of a Iew Physician we soone recouered our health and for feare of wanting money and especially out of our desire to returne home wee made too great haste to beginne our iourney for Constantinople If we would haue expected eight daies the Cassenda so they call a troope of Horsemen guarding the great Turkes treasure was in that time to goe for Constantinople in whose company wee might safely and swiftly haue performed this iourney namely in sixeteene daies whereas those who followed the slow pace of Cammels scarcely arriue there in thirty daies But this Prouince being extreamely hot in this time of summer and wee being scanted of money for our long iourney all mention of longer staying was most vnpleasing to vs. Moreouer Master George Dorington neuer to be named by me without mention of loue and respect did at this time send a Carauan that is Camels loaded with goods of his own to Constantinople and being to make a present to a Cady returning from his gouernement to Constantinople that he would take his Carauan into his protection and to passe in his company and louingly making offer to vs to recommend vs in like sort with his goods to the same Cady we were easily perswaded to take this iourney presently in the company of his seruants and of a curteous English Merchant called Master Iasper Tyant being then to goe for Constantinople This our conclusion proued greatly to the losse of Sir Iohn Spencer Merchant of London whose goods these were which Master Dortngton sent with vs. For my brother dying by the way and the great Turke being heire to all Christians and strangers dying in his Empire the Turkes either thought or fraudulently pretended that these goods belonged to my brother and so tooke them into the great Turkes store-houses and kept them there till they had vniustly extorted good summes of money from Master Dorington besides the great losse which was sustained by the seruants and Camels hired in vaine Being now to enter this iourney we hired for seuenty one piastri a Camell to carry our victuals an ambling Mule for my brother and a horse for my selfe and so much we presently gaue into the hands of our Muccaro with couenant that he should pay for the meat of the beasts Moreouer we presently laid out one hundred and twenty piastri for diuers necessaries namely two long chaires like cradles couered with red cloth to hang on the two sides of our Camell which chaires the Turkes vse to ride in and to sleepe vpon Camels backes but we bought them to carry victuals for bisket and a tent wherein we might sleepe and for like prouisions But behold when all this mony was laid out and the very euening before the day in which we were to begin our iourney my brother Henry fell sicke of a flux Being amased with this sudden chance we stood doubtfull for a time what to do til the consideration of the great summes of money we had laied out and of the difficulty to get more made vs resolue to take this fatall iourney yet with this purpose when we came to Scanderona some foure daies iourny distant to goe no further except in that time he recouered his health propounding this comfort to our miserable estate that there we might haue commodity of conuenient lodging with an Englishman there abiding factor for our Merchants Vpon Thursday the last of Iune that I may now follow the old stile taken here from the English and generally vsed in Turkey among the very Christians howsoeuer hitherto I haue followed the new stile taking it from the Venetian shippe in which I came and from the Friers at my abode in Ierusalem I say the last of Iune we went out of Haleppo passing ouer stony hils and by the Village 〈◊〉 where the Iewes say the Prophet Ieremy was buried Then riding forward all that night at last we sate downe at eight of the clocke in the morning and pitched our Tents neere a Village where I did see a pillar erected to Pompey and here we rested and refreshed our selues the heat of the day This kind of iournying was strange to vs and contrary to our health for we beganne our iourney at foure in the afternoone to shun the heat of the day past and rode all night so as we not vsed to this watching were so sleepy towards the Sunnerise as we could not abstaine from nodding and were many times like to fall from out horses To which mischiefe we could find no other remedy then to ride swiftly to the head of the Carauan and there dismounting to lie downe and slumber with our horses bridle tied to our legges one of vs by course walking by vs to keepe vs from iniuries and to awaken vs when the last Camel passed by lest we should there be left a pray to theeues And we hauing some two hundred Camels in our Carauan did in this sort passe the sleepy houres in the morning till seuen or eight of the clocke at which time we vsed to pitch ourtents and rest Moreouer this greatly afflicted vs that spending the morning till ten or eleuen of the clocke in pitching our Tent preparing meat and eating we had no time to rest but the extreme heat of the noone day which so pierced our tents that we could no more sleepe then if in England vpon a Summers day we had lien neere a hot sea-cole fire And how soeuer wee lessened this heate by flinging our gownes ouer our Tent betweene the sunne and vs yet for my part I was so afflicted with want of sleepe and with this immoderate heate as I feared to fall into a Lunacy what then should a man think would become of my sickly brother in this case Vpon Friday the first of Iuly towards euening wee tooke vp our Tents supping while our Muccaro loaded our beasts then we rode ouer Mountaines all night and the next morning againe pitched our Tents
according to their manner comming to helpe him the Chaus was glad to let mee alone and they bade me be bold to stand still though I were the second or third person from the Emperour Neere this Church is the stately Sepulcher of Selymus the second and another Sepulcher no lesse stately and newly built for Amurath lately deceased where he lay with those male children round about him who according to the manner were strangled by his Successour after hee was dead Not farre thence is the Market place hauing some one hundred marble pillars about it and adorned with a Pyramis or pinacle erected vpon foure Globes and with a pleasant Fountaine of water together with other ornaments left as it seemes by Christian Emperours R The wonderfull Mosche and Sepulcher of Solyman numbred among the miracles of the World S Two houses for the same vse as the Exchange of London where the Merchants meete namely for the selling of fine wares but no way to be compared to the same for the building They are called the great and the lesse Bezestan and vse to bee opened onely certaine daies of the weeke and for some sixe howers at which times small and more pretious wares are there to be sold as Iewels Semiters or Swords set with Iewels but commonly counterfet pieces of Veluet Satten and Damaske and the like And the Market place is not farre distant where Captiues of both sexes are weekely sold and the buyers if they will may take them into a house and there see them naked and handle them as wee handle beasts to know their fatnesse and strength T Here is a Fort that is fortified with seuen Towers called by the Turkes Iadicule and by Christians the seuen Towers where a garrison of Souldiers is kept because the Emperors treasure is there laied vp and cheefe Prisoners vse to be kept there The treasure is vulgarly said to bee laied vp there but the great Turke seldome goes thither and since it is true that where the treasure is there is the mind I thinke it probable which I haue heard of experienced men that most of the treasure lies in the Seraglio where the great Turke holds his Courr V Here be the ruines of a Pallace vpon the very wals of the City called the Pallace of Constantine wherein I did see an Elephant called Philo by the Turkes and another beast newly brought out of Affricke the Mother of Monsters which beast is altogether vnknowne in our parts and is called Surnapa by the people of Asia Astanapa by others and Giraffa by the Italians the picture whereof I remember to haue seene in the Mappes of Mercator and because the beast is very rare I will describe his forme as well as I can His haire is red coloured with many blacke and white spots I could scarce reach with the points of my fingers to the hinder part of his backe which grew higher and higher towards his foreshoulder and his necke was thinne and some three els long so as hee easily turned his head in a moment to any part or corner of the roome wherein he stood putting it ouer the beames thereof being built like a Barne and high for the Turkish building not vnlike the building of Italy both which I haue formerly described by reason whereof he many times put his nose in my necke when I thought my selfe furthest distant from him which familiarity of his I liked not and howsoeuer the Keepers assured me he would not hurt me yet I auoided these his familiar kisses as much as I could His body was slender not greater but much higher then the body of a stagge or Hart and his head and face was like to that of a stagge but the head was lesse and the face more beautifull He had two hornes but short and scarce halfe a foote long and in the forehead he had two bunches of flesh his eares and feete like an Oxe and his legges like a stagge The Ianizare my guide did in my names and for me giue twenty Aspers to the Keeper of this Beast W X Here be two Castles or Forts diuided by the Hollespont one seated in 〈◊〉 the other in Asia whereof I made mention in my sayling to Constantinople and of which I shall speake more largely at my going from this City Constantinople built sixe hundred sixty three yeeres before Christ was borne by 〈◊〉 a Lacedemonian was first called Bizantiam till Constantine the Great in the yeere of the Lord 315 did rebuild it after it had beene destroied by the Emperour 〈◊〉 and called it by his name The Turkes vnder Mahimet the second first tooke this City in the yeere 1453 from the Christians with destruction of great multitudes of them and at this day it is called of the great circuit Stimbals by the Graecians and Stambalda by the Turkes It is seated in Thrace also called Romania and is built in forme of a Triangle whereof two sides towards the North and East lie vpon two seas and the third side towards the West lies vpon the continent of Greece For many causes this City is famous and in two respects may be iustly preferred to any other in the World knowne to vs namely for the pleasantnesse of the situation and the largenesse and safety of the Hauen The forme thereof formerly set downe doth in part shew the pleasantnes of the situation but the fruitfulnesse of the fields the sweetnes and beauty of the flowers and the variety and goodnesse of the fruits cannot sufficiently be praised The fishes in the winter season flying from the cold of the Euxine or black Sea falldowne in great numbers into the Sea Propontis passing close by the wals of the City and againe in Summer time not induring the heat of the Mediterianean sea returne backe in like numbers the same way This City hath a thousand pleasant creekes of the Sea within sight To conclude the Countrey is no lesse pleasant then the Inhabitants are wicked The Hauen will receiue an huge number of shippes and vpon both the bankes of the City and Gallata shippes of 300 〈◊〉 or greater once vnloaded may so lie with their cables fastened on the Land as they 〈◊〉 from the shippes to Land without 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and for the excellency of the Port the City itselfe is called the Port by the Turkes and Ouid cals it the Port of two Seas for the two channels of Propontis and the Euxine Sea Of old the City had eleuen gates called Aurea Pargea Romana Carthasez Regia Caligaria Kilma Harmagona Phara Theodosia and Spilica At this day the slender wall of bricke towards the Sea hath thirteene gates not worth the naming The wall towards the Land is of bricke and is said to haue beene much ruined in the yeere 1509 by an Earth-quake yet still on that side are three wals which are broad enough for a cart to passe of which the outmost towards land is little higher then the foundation of the second nor that much higher
thereof namely clothes of Gold Damasks and Grogerans to the value of a thousand thousand zechines as the report went and setting the ship on fire tooke away the marriners for slaues And the very time of my being in this Iland seuen Turkish Gallies lay vpon this coast and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands so as howsoeuer they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman yet their ships durst not stirre out of this hauen Whereupon they hauing now occasion to send out ships for Corne the Magistrate forced the Master of an English ship then harbouring there to wast these ships though much against his will when there were some 20 Venetian ships in the same Hauen whereof diuers were of 400 or 500 tuns Also at this time it hapned that a Spanish ship of Catolonia was driuen into this Harbor and the Magistrate calling our Merchants before him would haue forced them to giue caution that the English ships then lying there should not assaile the same though betweene England Spaine war had now long time bin proclaimed but they contesting against this course as iniurious to them yet could not be dismissed till they gaue their words that our ships should not assayle the same by day or night so long as it lay in this Hauen And this Spanish ship for long time not daring to goe forth at last vpon occasion of Venetian Gallies landing there was wafted by them and so escaped Vpon the robbing and burning of the foresaid Venetian ship by Turkish Pyrates the Venetian Baliffe so they call their Ambassadour lying then at Constantinople had obtained the great Turkes Mandate that these Pyrates gallies being burnt they should presently be sent in bonds to his Court and this Mandate was brought by a Chiauss or Pencioner who came in the same ship with vs whereupon the Pyrates being more inraged against the Venetians did at this time take and spoyle another Venetian ship of some foure hundred and fifty Tunnes called the Syluester and not content with the most rich booty did cast into the Sea many Marriners yeelding to mercy and could hardly be perswaded by the intercession of Turkes passengers in the same ship to spare the liues of some twenty chiefe Marriners yet aliue and to forbeare the burning of the ship The Italians of best iudgement did not expect that the great Turke would duly punish these outrages but rather were of opinion that himselfe and his chiefe Visere would draw the greatest part of the prey to their own hands and that the Turkish Gouernours inticed by like participation would endeuour to free these Pyrates and doe their best to nourish them yea that this very Chiauss now sent with a Mandate to suppresse them would be induced by bribes to returne to Constantinople with relation that the Pyrates could not be found so they did as no doubt they would for a time hide themselues and in conclusion that the Venetians after hauing spent much money in obtaining new Mandates for their apprehension should find no other remedy but to repell force by force Vpon Wednesday the thirtieth of March after the old stile in the beginning of the yeere 1597 we set sayle but by contrarietie of winds were againe driuen backe into the Hauen of Zante Vpon Friday the first of Aprill after dinner againe we set saile and the second of Aprill sayling by the Iland Cefalonia whereof I spake in our voyage from Venice to Ierusalem we cast anchor in the outward Hauen of the Iland Corfu because the Master of our ship was sicke and this his sickenesse increasing we set saile to returne backe to the chiefe City of that Iland the Hauen whereof we entered the sixth of Aprill From Zante to Cefaloniae are seuenty miles and from thence to Corfu are 120 miles This Iland Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile yeelding plenty of fruites corne wines and Currands and this Hauen is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke namely the old and the new Fort which is more then a mile in circuit both being very strong and held vnexpugnable so as this Iland is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome The Master of our ship hauing recouered his health wee set saile vpon Tuesday the twelfth of Aprill and returned againe to the foresaid outward Hauen of Corfu Iland where an old woman a passenger died and her kinsemen carried her body to be buried on Land Here againe we were forced to stay the winds being contrary Atlast vpon the nineteenth of Aprill towards euening with a faire wind we ioyfully set saile and the twentieth day we sailed ouer the streight Sea betweene Greece and the Prouince of Apulia in Italy Vpon Friday the two and twentieth of Aprill towards the euening hauing sayled some two hundred miles from the said streight we were carried by the shoare of the City Raguza with a faire gale of wind and had the wind beene neuer so contrary yet our Master knowing some late difference risen betweene the Raguzeans and Venetians would not willingly haue landed in that Hauen The blame of which difference some imputed to the Raguzeans in that they fauoured the Scocchi a Neighbour people vpon the shoare of Sclauonia who being subiect to the Emperour and Christians yet robbed all kinds of ships passing these Seas and had lately spoiled and burnt a Venetian Gally in the Port of Rouinge But other alleaged a more probable cause thereof namely that some Venetian Gentlemen for some venerious in solencies there committed had Iately beene slaine in a tumult Raguze of old called Epidaurus and the chiefe City of Selauonia is foure hundred miles distant from Venice built at the foot of an high mountaine vpon the Sea shoare and hath great trafficke by those Seas and huge ships which the Kings of Spatne haue often hired and ioined to their Nauy The gouernement is popular and this City to the wonder of many doth to this day maintaine the liberty though it be seated betweene the very iawes of the two powerfull States of the great Turke and Venetians to one of which all other neere Townes Ilands and Countries are subiect For the Venetians are loath to driue them being Christians to such despaire as they might be forced to yeeld themselues to the great Turke and the City is very strongly fortified towards the sea whence the Venetians can onely assaile them besides that they pay great customes of their trafficke to the State of Venice for which reason that State attempts nothing against the freedome of the City Againe the Turkes knowing that if they should besiege the City by Land the Citizens would with all their best moueables flie into Italy by Sea and receiuing also a great yeerely tribute from the trafficke of this City where the great Turke hath his owne Officer called Chiaussagha to gather the same are also content not to molest them by warre especially since they know that the Pope the King of Spaine
and haue plentie of milke aswell of cowes as of goates In stead of bread they eate vnleauened cakes baked on the cinders which commonly are mingled with a kind of seede They feede commonly on hens and rice either sod alone or with a hen or mutton in a vessell full of holes without any liquor put in when it is set on the fier so as there being no other iuce but that of the meat the rice is made very thick Within these narrow bounds is their most costly feeding restrained In time of the yeere they feed much vpon fruites and keepe grapes all winter so as you would iudge them fresh They abhor from swines flesh as the Iewes do for the rest I did neuer see nor heare by relations of others that the richest of them did affect any other variety of meate then I haue named and I haue often seene Men of the better sort eating out of the seething pot without any dish set before them The aboue named flesh of Muttons is very sauoury and the sheepe of Syria and the adioyning parts of Asia are of such greatnesse as many times a taile of them hanging to their heeles and very woolly and fat and close wouen in many plights doth weigh thirty or more pounds They haue also Venyson for in the woodes there be many wild Goates dispersed and I haue seene a kind of fallow Deare in Syria called Gazelle of which kind I haue seene some brought out of Barbary into England And they much delighting in fruites haue excellent of many kindes aud in great quantity namely Abricots and muske Melones and diuers kinds of Pumpions whereof one called Angouria as bigge as our Pumpions is exceeding full of a very cold iuyce being most pleasant for the coolenesse in any great heat which coolenesse though I take to be vnwholsome for one sicke of an ague yet my selfe almost wasted with the burning of that disease did vehemently desire to eate of this fruite and found it nothing hurtfull or rather healthfull to me In the Hauen of Alexandretta or Scanderona a Graecian the Master of a Venetian ship gaue me a present of foure or fiue Apples which he called as they vulgarly doe the Apple of Adam and I neuer in my life tasted so delicete a-fruite It was of forme like a long Peare or rather for the crookednesse like a Cucumer of the lesser sort and it had a most thinne skinne of colour like a Peeches skinne the least part whereof being opened the iuyce was easily to be sucked out which was very pleasant and not much vnlike to the iuyce of a figge newly pulled from the tree If I should particularise all the kindes of pleasant fruites I might be infinite therein The Turkes when they haue eaten not while they eate goe like good fellowes together and like Horses at once drinke for that meale as greedily as if the water were turned into wine which kind of drinke those that are zealous of their Law and those that iourney by the high way more specially and all Turkes in generall most commonly vse for which cause those that iourney vse to pitch their tents vpon the banks of pure fountains or running waters which they no lesse know or as curiously search out as we doe the best Innes or Tauernes Besides commonly they haue a cup if I may so call it being a purse of leather that opens or shuts with strings hanging at their Horses saddle pomell which as they sit on Horsebacke they put downe into the fountaines and draw water to drinke not omitting to taste a good spring of water no more then we would a peece of rare Wine Their water especially in Prouinces lying neere the Sunne is in this property contrary to ours that it loosens the body no lesse then the rice binds it In Cities diuers kinds of drinkes are to be sold some esteemed as much as wine with vs. One kind I remember presented vnto vs in Palestine by the Sobasha of Ramma which was made of medicinall hearbs to purifie and coole the blood and they drinke it hot so as it seemes a very physicall potion They drinke sugar or hony mingled with water and water sodden with grapes rosewater and hony and they haue whole Tunnes of the iuyce of Cytrons and Limons which they willingly drinke and all these kinds are to be sold in their Ctties Wine is forbideen by Mahomets law which permits Aquauite vulgarly called Harech which Aquauite they often drinke euen to drunckennes And whether it be out of the common error of mankinde to desire forbidden things or out of the licentiousnes of Souldiers which euery day growes greater then other howsoeuer in Idlenes they obey theire lawe in not planting Vines yet not only the Ianizaries but euen the religious men will drinke wine largely euen to drunkennesse with Christians as well Ambassadours as others yea if Christian passengers carry wine by the way for their owne drinking and haue a Ianizary to protect them yet they will familiarly come to drinke with them and if they haue no protector they will take their wine and whatsoeuer they haue else at their pleasure so as their false Prophet hath onely prouoked vice by forbidding it Many Prouinces yeeld rich wines the chiefe wherof are the Greek wines which notwithstanding seemed to me for the most part to be corrasiue fretting the stomacke and entrals and as well the white as red wines of Mount Lybanus and Antilibanus which are carried to Tripoli and as farre as Haleppo the wines about Ierusalem being sharpe and small but the best wine of all is the white wine of Palorme in Natolia which is like the Spanish sacke but more pleasant to the taste being not so sweete as the Canary wines nor so harsh and strong as the Sherry sacke This Wine is carried to Constantinople where also good wines grow planted by Christians there but this is most esteemed For onely Christians plant Vines and make wine howsoeuer the Turkes are content to take part of them at the Christians charge The Turkish Souldiers being to fight if they can find no wine drinke the iuyce of blacke poppy called Opium to raise their spirits to a kind of fury thinking them selnes made more valiant thereby For howsoeuer we thinke this hearbe especially taken largely to be dangerous for the health yet there is not a Turke from the highest to the lowest who doth not as it were daily vse it nothing being more frequently sowed nothing more plentifully growing especially in Natolia nothing more easily finding a buyer yea if their Cammels and Dromidaries faile by the way or vpon necessity must goe further then they vse to iourney as sometimes it fals out in Armies and other Iourneys then they giue them this hearbe by which they report their spirits so to be stirred vp as they will goe till they fall downe dead In this vast Empire I did see no Iunes no not in their Cities and a man shall rarely find any beds
of birds Nightingales flying loose in the groues and the most pleasant prospect In this Castle Marino we made some stay to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier vulgarly called Il Procaccia and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men vulgarly called Banditi And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company neither dare any passe alone For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples many times make excursions as farre as these mountaines to doe robberies and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers and had robbed the Carrier who doth not onely beare letters but leades many Mules laded with goods The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew so they call Church-mens bastards of the Cardinall Caietano who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts was banished by the Pope and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier who had great friends about the Pope and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought had escaped to the next City he withdrew himselfe his men into the mountainrs This danger from banished men makes the iourney to Naples very trouble some and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier So as the passengers rise before day and take horse and so sitting all the day yet ride not abouc twenty miles for the slow pace of the mules and at noone they haue no rest onely when they haue the Inne in sight so as there is no danger of theeues they are permitted to gallop before that they may eat a morsell or rather deuoure it for as soone as the mules are past they must to horse againe euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety but the souldiers forcing them to be gone who are more slow then the rest To conclude the mules going a very slow pace it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day and to follow them step by step Hauing dined at Marino and our full company being come we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri through wooddy mountaines infamous for the robberies of banished men and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao which the old Romans delighted with doing difficult things vsed to fill with sea water and therein to make nauall fights One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse till they haue passed the same The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri was two miles long yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes which vse to yeeld the richest wine Velitri is by writers called Belitre an old City of the Volsci and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus and the dwelling of the Octauian Family The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs and their trumpet asked of euery man a gift in curtesie which we gladly gaue and there new horsemen meeting vs tooke vpon them our guard After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua and fiue miles to an old City which Liuy callesh Priuernum yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off whereas this is seated vpon a mountaine yet growing to a City by the decay of the former is called Priuernum and vulgarly Piperno We passed through wooddy mountaines full of Oliue trees on the right hand and a fruitfull plaine of corne and many Orchards of Orange trees and like fruits on the left hand And among the mountaines on the right hand the most remote was called Circello of the famous Witch Circe and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea where at this day they shew the cup in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time and rob the Christians The last fiue miles of our iourney all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand where as they said the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier After we had dined the horse-men left vs and certaine foot did after guide vs from one City to another The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men and rode twelue miles to Terracina an old City so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land and many vineyards and ruines of houses neere the City After we had this morning rode two miles we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua where they haue a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs and certaine foot meeting vs conducted vs other 2 miles In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur and it is seated vpon a mountaine as most of the foresaid Cities are and it lieth vpon the sea which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone this Citie lying vpon one horne thereof and the Citie Caieta vpon the other of which Citie the Cardinall had name who did oppose himselfe to Luther The flouds of the sea make great noise with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci which we paid though it were onely due from them who had portmanteaues with locks Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi through a stony way being part of the old way of Appius and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land where wee passed by the Citie Monticello At the mid-way the Popes guard hauing left vs we came to two old ruined walles shutting vp the way and lying from the Mountaine to the sea This place called Sportelle deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards I remember
our would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it then according to the fashion wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake and when he was drawne out he began by little and little to moue and at last being come to his senses ranne away as if he had been madde The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour Besides many haue tried that liuing things cast into that caue and held there for longer time then is vsuall could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water They report that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death And that the French King Charles the eight commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe And that don Iohn base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue and he falling dead forced another slaue to fetch him out who likewise fell dead and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fellowes Many cast frogs into this caue and except they presently leape back this vapour kills them which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters And this water though cold to touch yet seemes to boile The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines by the vapours inclosed gaue the Poets occasion to faine that Giants were buried vnder them Not farre hence are the wholesome baths vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano which kind of baths are very frequent in this part Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus and Writers affirme that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake cutting the passage through Mountaines Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero which retaine the old name and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait was buried here and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place is a round field like a Market-place vulgarly called o Solfataria which Strabo cals Forum vulcani Pliny writes that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci It is of an Ouall forme somewhat more long then broad hauing 1500 foote in length and 1000 in breadth being compassed on all sides with Mountaines except the enterance lying towards Pozzoli All the earth is hollow and being beaten with a mans foote soundeth like an emptie vessell and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour with walking vpon it yea when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe In this Ouall Market place as I may call it there is a short and narrow ditch of water which is almost round and the water thereof boyles as if fire were vnder it They say if any thing be cast into it that it will be sodden in short space but some part of it will be consumed and Leander reports that one cast foure egges into it and presently tooke three fully sodden but the fourth was consumed Also he witnesseth that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite and yet is neuer greater and that the old ditch is filled presently with new matter An horseman cannot well come to this place and as the same Leander writes an horse man comming boldly thither was swallowed vp into the hollow earth And that the strange heate of this water may appeare one of the Viceroyes Guard a Duchman and comming hither according to their fashion to guide his Countrey men my consorts told vs that one of his fellowes not long before comming in like sort as hee did to guide his Countrimen hither either being carelesse or rather as it is most probable hauing drunke too much and not guiding his feete well by chance stumbled into this ditch and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand and that after better aduice they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him but that within few daies he died neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole where the vapours with their owne motion continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe or any thing put into the hole the more they are stirred the greater stones they cast vp yea flames of fire sometimes There bee some cottages neere this place where they make Brimstone and all these parts smell of brimstone and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters which of old were famous After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings we came at the foot of a mountaine to the City p Pozzoli of old famous and called Puteolis to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong of the wels which are frequent I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo signifying a well though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo which signifies a stink because of the smell of brimstone in these parts but the city being most ancient cannot haue the old name of an Italian word and it is certaine that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation for the great sweetnes of the Country and the plenty of medicinall waters whereupon they gaue it the first name Others say that it was of old called Diciarchiam but at this day it is called Pozzoli or Puzzoli Here we dined and were forced to giue our swords to the Host there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes The City hath nothing worth the seeing but the old Church first built to Heathen Idols and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious but by negligence is growne of no vse Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines was of old called the Creeke of P Baie of that Citie seated on the opposite shore or
suddenly he changed his minde for feare of a great Rhume wherewith he was troubled or being discouraged with the difficulty of the iourney and would needs returne to Emden with purpose if hee were to be belieued to returne the next Spring to some place neere Ierusalem in an English ship which he thought more commodious He professed that he had put much money out vpon his returne and since hee was old and very sickly and after so long a iourney and so much money spent would needes returne home I cannot thinke that he euer vndertooke this iourney againe Many Papists thinke they must haue the Popes Licence to goe this iourney and Villamont a French Gentlemen writes that otherwise they incurre the censure of the Church and affirmes that the Pope writ vnder his licence these words Fiat quod petitar that is let that be granted which is craued and vnder the remission of his sinnes Fiat Faelix that is Let him be made happy And he addes that he was forced to take as much paines and to spend as much and to vse as much helpe of the Popes Officers for the obtaining of these two sutes as if he had beene a suter for a Bishoppricke But I know many Papists that haue gone from Venice to Hierusalem who either cared not for this licence or neuer thought vpon it and how soeuer it may giue some credulous men hope of fuller indulgence or merit surely it will serue them for no other vse Among our consorts I neuer heard any mention thereof neither did the Friars at Ierusalem inquire after it When I first began to thinke of vndertaking this iourney it was told me that each Ascension day a Venetian gally was set forth to carry Pilgrimes to Ierusalem But it seemes that this custome is growne out of vse since few are found in these daies who vndertake this iourney in regard of the Turkes imposing great exactions and doing foule iniuries to them For the very Friars which euery third yeere are sent into those parts to doe diuine duties to the Papist Merchants there abiding the Friars formerly sent being recalled vse to passe in no other then common Merchants ships In the end of March we had the opportunity of a ship passing into Asia which at that time of the yeere is not rare This ship was called the lesse Lyon and the Master whom the Italians cal Patrono was Constantine Coluri a Grecian as most part of the Marriners are Greekes the Italians abhorring from being sea men Concerning diet some agreed with the Steward of the ship called Ilscalco and they paid by the moneth foure siluer crownes each crowne at seuen lyres and I marked their Table was poorely scrued For our part we agreed with the Master himselfe who for seuen gold crownes by the month paid by each of vs did curteously admit vs to his Table and gaue vs good diet seruing each man with his knife and spoone and his forke to hold the meat whiles he cuts it for they hold it ill manners that one should touch the meat with his hand and with a glasse or cup to drinke in peculiar to himselfe Hee gaue vs wine mingled with water and fresh bread for two or three daies after we came out of any harbour and otherwise bisket which we made soft by soaking it in wine or water In like sort at first setting forth he gaue vs fresh meates of flesh and after salted meates and vpon fasting dayes he gaue vs egges fishes of diuers kinds dried or pickled sallets sod Rice and pulse of diuers kinds Oyle in stead of butter Nuts fruit Cheese and like things Also we agreed that if our iourney were ended before the moneth expired a rateable proportion of our money should be abated to vs. Each of vs for his passage agreed to pay fiue siluer crownes of Italy And howsoeuer I thinke they would not haue denied vs wine or meat betweene meales if we had beene drie or hungry yet to auoide troubling of them my selfe and my brother carried some flaggons of rich wine some very white bisket some pruines and raisins and like things And to comfort our stomackes in case of weakenesse we carried ginger nutmegs and some like things and for remedies against agues we carried some cooling sirops and some pounds of sugar and some laxatiue medicines Also we carried with vs two chests not onely to lay vp these things but also that we might sleepe and rest vpon them at pleasure and two woollen little mattresses to lie vpon and foure quilts to couer vs and to lay vnder vs which mattresses and quilts we carried after by land or else we should haue beene farre worse lodged in the houses of Turkes besides that many times we lay in the field vnder the starry cannopy In stead of sheetes we vsed linnen breeches which we might change at pleasure Howsoeuer all Nations may vse their owne apparell in Turky yet the clothes of Europe and especially the short clokes are most offensiue to them so as the wearer prouoketh them thereby to doe him iniuries Therefore my selfe and my brother bought each of vs a long coat of as course stuffe as we could find a long gowne of a course and rough frize Our swords daggers and European garments we left in our chests with a Flemmish Merchant lying at Venice to be kept against our returne and howsoeuer he falling banckerout left the City before that time yet our goods were by the publike Officer laid apart and readily deliuered to vs at our returne Whereas we left our swords at Venice know that no Turkes and much lesse Christians carry any Armes except when they goe some iourney and that we were not ignorant that howsoeuer Christians may defend themselues from theeues by the high way yet it was hard to distinguish betweene the Turkes violent extortions with the iniuries of them and the Ianizares by the high waies and flatrobberies by theeues and that whosoeuer should draw a sword or a knife against these men or any Turke scoffing and defpising him should be sure to die an ill death by publike Iustice which notwithstanding I know not how any man carrying Armes could haue the patience to endure Therefore since the Turkes iournying in great troopes were sufficiently armed against theeues and in all euents are vnfaithfull fellow souldiers to a Christian ioining with them excepting the Ianizares who how soeuer they make a shew of feare of theeues that they may seeme better to deserue their wages yet haue seldome or neuer beene assaulted by them For these and other reasons wee left our swords at Venite which reasons it would be tedious to vrge and chose rather vnarmed then armed to suffer iniuries which there cannot be auoided My selfe and my brother Henry who died this yeere in the moneth of Iuly spent foure hundred and eighty pounds sterling in this iourney from England to Ierusalem and thence to Haleppo and in my particular iourney after his death to Constantinople
to behaue themselues modestly And I must truly witnesse that the Patron the Scriuano and the sub-patron vsed all passengers courteously yet so kept their grauitic as they had due respect at all times particularly at the Table where they did first set downe others expecting till they came then the Friers did sit downe and lastly the Lay-men in due order Neither doe any sit or walke vpon the highest hatches saue onely they who did eate at the Table of the Patron but the rest and all the Easterne people whom hee neuer admits to his Table were on the middle Hatch or at the Prow Vpon Wednesday in the morning we did see vpon the shoare of Italy the Mountaines of Ancona which are two hundred Italian miles distant from Venice Vpon Thursday the fiue and twentie of Aprill wee sailed by the Iland or Mountaine Poma or Pamo seated in the middest of the Gulfe of Venice which was a high Rock rising sharpe at the toppe and vninhabited where in the Autum they take Faulcons and we sailed by the Iland Saint Andrea distant one hundred miles from Ancona on the North side and the shoare of Italy on the South side And the same night wee sayled by the Iland Ischa and the next morning being Friday by the Ilands Buso Aulto Catsa and towards the euening by the Ilands Cazola Augusta and Palaofa for in this Gulfe of Venice bee many Ilands whereof the most are subiect to Venice and the rest to Raguza and other Lords and some towards the North-shoare to the great Turke Heere great store of Dolphines followed our ship and the voyce of the Marriners as they vse to doe and they playing about vs did swimme as fast as if they had flowne Then wee did see the Iland Liozena being all of Mountaines subiect to Venice and inhabited by Gentlemen where the Venetians had built a strong Fort vpon the Hauen for their Gallies And after fiue miles wee did see the Iland Curzola subiect to Venice and hauing a Bishop And the winde being high wee cast anchor neere Curzola but the winde soone falling we set sayle againe From the fixe and twentie of Aprill to Thurseday the second of May the South-East winde which the Italians call Syrocco did blow very contrary vnto vs. The third of May being Friday towards the euening we were driuen vpon the Northerne shoare and did see the Fort Cataro built on a Mountaine vpon the continent against Turkish Pirats and distant eighteene miles from Raguza the chiefe Citie of Selauonia which is free yet payes tribute to the Venetians and Turks their powerful neighbors Not farre thence the Turks also had a Fort built against the Venetians Raguza is some one hundred miles distant from the Iland Andrea and some foure hundred miles from Venice Vpon Saturday we sayled by the Promontorie of Saint Mary on the North side and Otranto a Citie of Apulia in Italy on the South side seeing them both plainely for now we were passing out of the Gulfe of Venice into the Mediterranean sea by this Straight some sixtie miles broad and some two hundred miles distant from Raguza Here we did ouertake a ship of Venice called Ragazona and that we might enioy one anothers company the Sea being calme for the time our ship being the lesse yet of some nine hundred Tunnes was fastned to the Sterne of the other ship by a Cable and towards the euening vpon the Greeke shore towards the North wee did see Vallona Now we were come forth of the Adriatique Sea otherwise called the Gulfe of Venice which hath in length some sixe hundred Italian miles and the breadth is diuers sometimes two hundred miles sometimes lesse betweene Ancona and the opposite Hauen Valdagosta seuentie miles and in the Straight we now passed sixtie miles broad On Sunday the fifth of May we did see the Mountaine Fanon and as I remember an Iland three miles distant from the Iland Corfu and vpon the Greeke shoare beyond the Iland we did see the most high Mountaines called Chimerae inhabited by the Albanesi who neither subiect to the Turkes nor Venetians nor any other doe vpon occasion rob all and the Venetians and the Kings of France and especially of Spaine vse to hire them in their warres The sixth of May wee sayled by the Promontory called the Cape of Corfu the description of which Iland I will deferre till my returne this way On Tuesday the seuenth of May wee sailed by the Iland Paro verie neere vs and the Iland Saint Maura ioyned by a bridge to the continent of Epirus and subiect to the Turkes and the Iland Ithaca vulgarly called by the Italians Compare also subiect to the Turkes and famous for their King Vlysses and some foure miles distant from the Iland Cepholania which towards euening wee did see being distant some one hundred miles from Corfu On Wednesday early in the morning wee entered a narrow Sea some two miles broad hauing Cephalonia the lesse on the North side and the greater Cephalonia on the South side and wee cast anchor neere a desart Rocke where of old there was an Vniuersitie and many of vs in our boat sent with Mariners to cut wood and take fresh water did go on land in the greater Cepholania to refresh our selues and to wash our bodies in the Sea water but wee durst not goe farre from our Marriners lest the inhabitants of those woodie Mountaines should offer vs violence Both the Ilands are subiect to Venice and abound with wines and small Currends and in time of warre the Inhabitants retire to a Fort built there by the Venetians to be safe from the Turks The Venetians euery third yeere chuse some of their Gentlemen to be sent hether for Gouernour and Officers The same Wednesday the eight of May towards the euening we set saile and before darke night passed by the Promontary called the Cape of Cepholania and did see on the North side the Ilands Corsolari some ten miles distant where the Nauy of the Pope King of Spaine and Venetians confederate hauing Don Iohn of Austria base brother to King Phillip of Spaine for their Generall obtained a noble Victorie in the yeere 1571 against the Nauy of the Turkes the Christians hiding there many of their Gallies that the Turkes comming out of the Gulfe of Corinth now called the Gulfe of Lepanto might despise their number and so be more easily drawne to fight In the mouth of the said Gulfe vpon the West shoare is the Castle of Toran or Torneze seated in Peloponesus a Prouince of Greece which the Turkes call Morea and in the bottom of the Gulfe Petrasso is seated in the same Prouince and Lepanto in the Prouince of Achaia and of these Cities this Gulfe of Corinth is in these dayes called sometimes the Gulfe of Lepanto sometimes the Gulfe of Petrasso In the Citie of Petrasso the English Merchants liue hauing their Consull and they trafficke especially for Currands of Corinth Neere Cepholania great
was onely proper to the place at which we landed where they make salt till many Ilanders affirmed to me that the very earth the sweet hearbs the beasts feeding there and the fountaines of waters had a naturall saltnes The houses are built after the manner of Asia of a little stone one roofe high and plaine in the top which is plastered and there they eate and sleepe in the open aire By the assistance of a Venetian Merchant seuen of vs hired a ship of a Greeke dwelling in Cyprus for twenty eight zechines to Ioppa now called Iaffa or Giaffa with condition that he should stay at Ioppa fifteene dayes to expect our returne from Ierusalem and should thence carry vs to Tripoli in Syria The most part of these zechines wee left in the hand of the Venetian Merchant to be deliuered to the Master of this ship at his returne if he brought our testimonie vnder our hands that hee had performed all couenants with vs for wee also conditioned with him that hee should stay longer then fifteene dayes at Ioppa if neede were for our returne we paying him a zechine for euery day aboue fifteene which he should stay there for vs. We might haue hired a ship or Barke for ten zechines directly to Ioppa without these conditions of staying there and carrying vs to Tripoli And because the Turkish Gouernors of Cities vse to impose great tributes vpon Christians driuen into their Hauens somtimes by tricks of fraude to bring them in danger of life onely to spoile them of their money some of our Consorts would haue added another condition that the Master should not carrie vs to any Port but that of Ioppa had not the rest iudged it vnreasonable to tie him for performance of that which was onely in the power of God according to the windes which might force him to take harbor My selfe did familiarly know an English Gentleman who shortly after comming to Scanderona and there taking ship to passe by this shoare to Ioppa and so to Ierusalem if an honest man had not forewarned him had by the treason of a Ianizare in the way bin sold for a slaue to the inland Turks whence he was like neuer to be redeemed being farre remoued from Christians who onely trade vpon the Coasts And he was so terrified with this danger as he returned into England without seeing Ierusalem to which he had then a short iourney only carrying with him a counterfet testimonie and seale that he had been there because he had put out much money vpon his returne I formerly said that we lodged at Cyprus in a Monastery whence being now to depart the Friers of our company and also the Lay-men gaue each of vs eight lires of Venice to the Guardian of the Monastery and one lire to the Frier that attended vs in the name of gift or almes but indeede for three dayes lodging and dyet Vpon Friday the twentie foure of May we seuen Consorts namely two Franciscan Friers one Erimitane Frier and two Lay men all Frenchmen and my selfe and my brother hired a boat in the Hauen for foure lires of Venice to carrie vs to the Cyprian Barke we had hired and we carried with vs for our food a cheese costing foure Aspers a Iarre of Oyle costing sixe Aspers and a vessell of Wine called Cuso somewhat bigger then an English barrell and full of rich Wine but such as fretted our very intrals costing one Zechine and foure soldi of Venice and two Turkish aspers and egges costing twenty three aspers beside Bisket which we brought out of the Greeke ship In twilight for the nights vse not here to be darke we set saile and were forced to goe backe towards the West along the shoare of Cyprus to the Promontory called Capo di Gatti that is the Cape of Cats that we might from thence according to the Marriners experience fetch a faire winde So we sailed that euening thirtie miles of Italy I meane and the next day twentie miles to a Village of Cyprus called Lemisso where Christians ships vse to put in Here we cast anchor all the six twentie day of May expected a winde which we got at midnight following Ioppa is no more then two hundred fiftie miles from Cyprus and may easily be run in two nights and a daies saile with a faire winde yet how soeuer the wind was most fauourable to vs wee could see no land till Wednesday thetwenty nine of May at which time we found our selues by the ignorance of the Marriners to be vpon the Coast of Egypt neere the Citie Damiata which we might see seated vpon the banke of Nilus and they said it was some sixe miles from the Sea Now our Marriners seeing the shoare knew better to direct our sayling and the night following we lay at anchor neere this shoare Vpon Thursday we coasted the land of the Philistines and first did plainely see the Citie Gaza and after thirtie miles sayle the Citie Ascolon neere which we cast anchor for that night Vpon Friday being the last of May after two miles saile we entered the Hauen of Ioppa From hence we sent a messenger hired for fourteene meidines to the Subasha of Ramma intreating him that he would giue vs leaue to passe to Ierusalem and send vs a souldier to protect vs. The foresaid shore of the Philistines seemed to be a wild narrow and sandy plaine neere the sea with mountaines pleasant and fruitfull towards the East vpon Palestine The City of Ioppa mentioned in the scriptures had some ruines of wals standing which shewed the old circuit thereof but had not so much as any ruines of houses onely we did see the exactors of tribute come out of two ruinous Towers and some ragged Arabians and Turkes lying with their goods within certaine caues who also slept there or in the open aire These goods are daily carried hither and from hence vpon the backs of Cammels whereof we might see many droues laded both come and goe For this cause we would not land but thought better to lie in our shippe especially since the place affoorded no entertainment for strangers and our Mariners brought vs egges and fruites and we had with vs wine and bisket which notwithstanding we did hide left the Arabians or Turkes should take it from vs if they came to our Barke The Hauen is of little compasse but safe for small Barkes and was of old compassed with a bricke wall the ruines whereof still defend it from the waues of the sea The situation of Ioppa is pleasant vpon a hill declining towards the sea and the fields are fertile but were then vntilled Here the Prophet Ionas did take ship as it were to flie from God and the Machabei as appeares in the first booke and twelfth chapter here burnt the ships and the Apostle Peter lodging in the house of Simon was taught the conuersion of the Gentiles by a vision and here he raised vp Tabitha from death as the
the Prophet where of old was built a stately Church which as then stood little ruined and neere it is a pleasant fountaine where the passengers vse to drinke and to water their Asses They say that the said Prophet was borne there and that the place was of old called Anatoth I said that excellent corne growes betweene the great stones of these Mountaines or Rockes neither are they destitute of Vines and many fruites In the said valley of Hieromy certaine Arabians which seemed to be mowers of corno flew vpon vs like fierce dogges yet our Muccaro sent them away content with the gift of a bisket and in like sort in another narrow passage of the mountaines he paied some meidines for cafar which he neuer demanded of vs being content with the money we had paied him at Ramma Vpon a high Rocke we did see the ruines of the Castle Modon where the Machabees were buried Then wediscended into the Valley of Terebintho so called of a Tree bearing a black fruit like an Oliue yeelding a kind of oyle where we passed ouer a Torrent by a bridge of stone and this is the place famous for the victory of Dauid against Goliah We had now some two miles to Ierusalem yet in the very Hauen we wanted little of perishing For it happened that a Spachi or Horse-man vnder the great Turkes pay riding swiftly and crossing our way suddenly turned towards vs and with his speare in his rest for these horse-men carry speares bucklers like Amadis of Gaule he rushed vpon vs with all his might and by the grace of God his speare lighting in the pannell of the Asse neuer hurt the French-man his Rider but he did much astonish both him and vs till our Muccaro enquiring the cause of this violence he said why doe not these dogges light on foot to honour mee as I passe which when we heard and knew that we must here learne the vertue of the beasts on which we rode we presently tumbled from our Asses for we had no other stirrops then knotted ropes and bended our bodies to him Neither did we therein basely but very wisely for woe be to that Christian who resists any Turke especially a Souldier and who beares not any iniury at their hands We had but one mile to Ierusalem when we did sec large ruines on this West side of the City of an old City or Village Somewhat after noone the fourth of Iune we entered Ierusalem vpon the West side at the Gate of Ioppa written Iaffa Giaffa and Zaffa by diuers Nations At this gate we staied till two Friars came out of the Latine Monastery and likewise the exactors of Tribute came to vs and to them we paied each man two zechines for tribute due to the great Turke or at least extorted from vs which done the two Friars being Italians did lead vs to the Monastery of the Latines CHAP. II. The description of the City of Ierusalem and the territory thereof I Am vnskilfull in Geography and much more in the making of Mappes but according to the faithfull view of my eyes I will first draw the situation of Ierusalem and after explaine it as well as I can And first I thinke good to professe that by my iourny to this City I had no thought to expiate any least sinne of mine much lesse did I hope to merit any grace from God but when I had once begun to visite forraigne parts I was so stirred vp by emulation and curiosity as I did neuer behold any without a kind of sweete enuy who in this kind had dared more then my selfe Thus affected I thought no place more worthy to be viewed in the whole world then this City where howsoeuer I gaue all diuine worship to God and thought none to be giuen to the places yet I confesse that through the grace of God the very places strucke me with a religious horrour and filled my mind prepared to deuotion with holy motions In like fort I professe that I will faithfully relate the situation of the City and the description of the monuments made to me by the Friars making conscience not to adde or detract but as neere as I can to vse their owne words Yet doe I not my selfe beleeue all the particulars I write vpon their report neither doe I perswade any man to beleeue them But for many monuments the scripture giues credit to them and it is not probable in so great difference and emulation whereof I shall after speake of Sects of Christians there abiding and being most apt to note errours one in another that any apparant fictions could be admitted as on the contrary it is most certaine that some superstitious inuentions wherewith all the sectes are more or lesse infected haue in time obtained to be reputed true and religiously to be beleeued Howsoeuer he that conferres the situation of the City and of the monuments with the holy Scriptures and with the old ruines of Rome and other Cities shall easily discerne what things are necessarily true or false and what are more or lesse probable And it will notoriously appeare that the Citie is now seated in the same place in which it flourished when our Sauiour liued there in the slesh Neither let any man obiect to me the prophecies of the fatall and irreparable ruine thereof which all Diuines vnderstand of the Temple to be vtterly demolished and for my part I would rather admit if necessitie require any figuratiue speech then I would bee so wicked or so blockish as not to beleeue the holy Scriptures or that which I did see with these eyes Vpon the West side the Citie could neuer haue been more enlarged then now it is since Mount Caluerie without all doubt was of old without the walles which now is inclosed within them so as rather it appeares the Citie hath been so much inlarged on that side In like sort on the East side the Citie is so compassed with the Valley of Iehosephat and the famous Mount Oliuet as it appeares the City could not that way haue been larger then now it is On the North side I did neuer reade nor heare any that described this Citie to haue been larger then now it is yet in respect of huge ruines still remaining there vpon a large Plaine of the highest part of the Citie if any should confidently affirme that they belonged to the old Citie for my part I could not gainesay it From the Plaine of this highest part of the Citie it declines by little and little if you except some little Hilles within the walles from the North to the East where the Temple of Salomon is seated vpon the lowest part of Mount Moriah and likewise it declines from the North to the South Gates whereof the one is called Sterquilinea of the filth there carried out the other Praesentationis because the Virgin Mary entered there when she presented Christ to the Priest in the Temple which gates as the whole
liued in the Church and that shee would not refuse any opportunity to goe backe into Spaine but otherwise would die there thereby thought to merit much of God Neither doe I thinke shee lost the hope of this vaine merit since it was not easie to find a man who would carry an old woman and beare her charges so long a iourney The stone of vnction in the Church is common to all the nine Christian sects neither doe the Keepers of any other monuments refuse any Christian to enter into them but onely by priuiledge keepe their Altars priuate to themselues Most of the sects haue their Monasteries in the City and as I formerly said each of them hath the priuiledge to keepe some monuments as well within as without the wals But some of the sects only come to Ierusalem at solemne feasts and dwelling neere the City easily maintaine a Friar or two to keepe their monuments and so are freed from the necessity of building a monastery in the City Vpon Wednesday the twelfth of Iune towards euening the Turkes did open the Church to let vs out and each of vs Lay-men gaue the chiefe Turke thirty meidines and the Doore-keeper twenty of free gift and for the waxe candles burnt the night before in the Church each gaue sixty meidines to one of our Italian Friars This done we returned to the Monastery where we lodged with great ioy that we were presently to goe backe to Ioppa I formerly said that the Franciscan Friars with whom we lodged were of Europe whether at three yeeres end they were to be recalled and some fifty new Friars to be sent hither in their place which still each third yeere vse to be changed And these Friars are called the Family of Frankes for the great Turke permits them as French to liue there and forbids the comming of any Spanish or Roman Friars yet are they for the most part of Sicily Naples or Rome but denying their Countrey affirme that they are Venetians and if they were knowne to be subiects to Spaine or Rome they should incurre great danger Of them some few are indeed Venetians and at this time some two were Frenchmen All these liue of the aimes of the Merchants in the East of their Religion who for the most part are Italians and especially Venetians yet hath the Monastery also some rents of Lands giuen to it of old in Sicily and in Spaine and from thence they bring with them euery third yeere at their first arriuall a present of great value to the Turkish Ottoman I said formerly that of old the Venetians yeerly sent a gally to carry Pilgrimes to the Holy Land till the Christians were so oppressed by exactions of the Turkes as they rarely vndertooke that iourney and so the Venetians also left that custome From that time this Family of Frankes so these Friars are called vseth to passe in a Venetian ship to Cyprus and from thence to Ioppa in the Holy Land hiring there a Graecian barke to that purpose and in like sort the old Family vpon the arriuall of the new returnes into Italy And as soone as this family arriueth they disperce themselues the greater part abiding at Ierusalem and Bethlehem and some single men or couples being sent to doe the office of Priests at Cayro or Babylon in Egypt at Haleppo in Asia where most part of their Merchants reside and at Scanderona of old by all and still by Christians called Alexandretta These Friars thus dispersed are not onely maintained by the Merchants to whom the are sent but they also send from them large almes to the rest at Ierusalem and they often change places that all may equally beare these burthens We being now to take our iourney from Ierusalem many Christians and Iewes brought vs diuers toies to buy and carry with vs being of no worth saue onely that they were far fetcht namely beades for Papists to number their praiers and also crosses both made of the earth whereof they say Adam was formed or of the Oliue trees of Mount Oliuet or of Terebinth vnder one of which trees they say the Virgin Mary rested when shee carried Christ an Infant to be presented in the Temple and round stones called Cornioli of yellow colour and others of white called the Sea-water of India Also girdles of the Virgin Mary glistering stones of little price as all the rest are Among which they attribute to the stone of Indea the vertue to prouoke vrine to the Eagle stone called Aquilina the vertue to expell poyson to facilitate the birth of children to heale the falling sicknesse to restore woemens milke and so to diuers stones diuers and incredible vertues Besides our Franciscan Friars gaue each to his friend and the Guardian to vs all Agnos Dei Dust and little stones taken from the foresaid monuments for a great treasure to be carried to our friends at home Moreouer they gaue to each of vs freely and vnasked as it seemes of custome as well to vs Lay-men as to the Friars a testimony vnder the seale of the Monastery that we had beene at Ierusalem and for better credit they expressed therein some markable signes of our faces and bodies Now there remained nothing but the Epilogue of the Comedy that we should make some fit present to the Guardian of the Monastery in satisfaction for our diet and the curtesie of the Friars towards vs which my selfe and my brother thought very fit to be done but two of the Friars our consorts either wanting money or vsed to eate of free cost did not onely refuse to giue any thing but perswaded the French Lay-men to ioine with them in deniall thereof The third Friar our consort and for his experience vsed by the other as a conductor hearing this did vehemently reproue them vsing these words in French Que voules vous doncques payer en blanche that is what will you then pay them in white which phrase they vse when a man requites a curtesie in words or faire written promises not really They on the other side no lesse angry answered that it was vnfit and irreligious for Friars to extort gifts from Christian Pilgrimes My selfe and my brother laughed to our selues hearing this difference for we found now and had often heard that these Friars were most deate Hosts and that as they in England who referre their payment to pleasure are alwaies ouer-paid so these Friars asking nothing for diet yet vnder the title of gift or almes expect more then any the most greedy Host could demand yet lest we should prouoke them either to hinder our departure or to doe vs any shrewd turne as they most easily might doe yea left they should surmise my selfe and my brother to be authours or partners of this conspiracy I perswaded the French Lay-men our consorts that howsoeuer the Friars still remained obstinate to giue nothing yet we foure should present the Guardian some sixe zechines This effected the Guardian dismissed vs for
left they should fall into some Turks hands who might abuse them And when our consorts at Bethlehem printed the signe of the Crosse with inke and a pen-knife vpon their armes so as the print was neuer to bee taken out wee would not follow them in this small matter but excused our selues that being to passe home through many Kingdomes we durst not beare any such marke vpon our bodies whereby wee might bee knowne Besides it was some aduantage to vs that the Frenchmen our consorts were of their Kings partie and professed no lesse hate against Spaine then our selues To conclude the Friers of our consorts told me and my brother that the Guardian would make vs Knights of the Sepulcher so we would craue that honour which was neuer granted to any but them that craued it in which case they offered to be intercessors for vs. I well knew that they had offered this honour as they termed it to a Plebean Frenchman our consort and had heard that the Friers vsed this art to get money from Pilgrimes making no difference to whom they gaue this title And for my part I neuer affected titles thinking better to be of an interiour condition with plenty then of high degree with want Therefore I so answered them as giuing due thanks for their courtesie yet I professed that if I were worthy of that title I might not craue it nor receiue it offered in respect of the oath imposing militarie duties vpon me and the profession of seruice to the King of Spaine the publique enemy of our Country besides that I should be tied thereby to hate and prosecute all of the reformed Religion which many of my friends and kinsmen professed It is true that if wee had had a Ianizare to guide and protect vs wee might haue lodged in Terusalem with some Christian who would haue shewed vs the monuments without troubling the Italian Friers And it is well knowne that the great Turke giues libertie to all Religions But the other Sects of Christians being poore and these Friers being full of money as well the Christians as Turkes depend greatly vpon them so as if they would they might easily haue brought vs into danger neither could wee haue had such conuenient diet and lodging with any other as with them And howsoeuer by our Merchants helpe we might haue obtained letters from the Italian Merchants at Haleppo for our entertainement and good vsage in this Monastery yet since for the foresaid reasons we had at Cyprus committed our selues to the protection of the Friers our consorts we had now no meanes but honest dissembling to free our selues from danger For it had been easie for these Friers secretly to haue drawne vs into danger of life and we knew that Papists make no conscience or rather thinke it meritorious to vse like practises against those of our Religion And if they would not practise against our liues yet we knew that they might haue cast vs into many dangers both here and in our returne through Italy if wee should haue prouoked them to wish vs ill Therefore this our foresaid dissembling may well bee excused especially since thereby wee did not in any sort wound our consciences to my best remembrance Now that this dissembling might proue more profitable and honest it behooued vs thorowly to know our consorts and so to apply our selues to them Of which the two French Lay-men were yong and of no experience in the World and one of the Friars was more simple then simplicity it selfe so as small art was required to deceiue these The second Friar had beene a Souldier in the warre of France and had made himselfe Friar after the peace onely to escape the priuat reuenge of some whose friends he had killed for they neuer seeke reuenge of those that put on a religious habite and to gaine this mans loue it was sufficient to vse good fellowship towards him The third Friar had a sharpe wit ioined with the wisdome of experience so as all the rest chose him for their guide and to gouerne their expences And because he might easily incense our consorts and the Friars at Ierusalem against vs we thought good to gaine his good will by all good respects to him so as howsoeuer we were not ignorant to manage our owne affaires yet ioining our selues to the rest we made him also gouernour of our expences to witnesse our confidence in his loue and cared not to beare some losse so we might bind him to vs vnder the title of friendship which we easily effected with him being of a curteous disposition To conclude I did often experience his good will and howsoeuer I found him louingly and courteously to make vs respected as well of our consorts as the Friars at Ierusalem yet I perceiued by many and cleere arguments that he thought vs to differ from him in religion For in particular when I refused for the foresaid reasons and with due modesty the Friars offer to make me Knight of the Sepulcher he smiling said to me alluding to my name in the French tongue Enverité vous estes fin c. That is in truth you are crafry as your name imports but I will endeauour to make the Guardian interpret your excuse to the best Besides his friendship it was no small aduantage to vs that our stay at Ierusalem was so short as the time permitted them not to inquire after our religion By the aforesaid art we freed our selues from all danger yet would I not aduise any by imitating vs to incurre the like who can haue the foresaid better commodities of performing this iourney since it would bee hard for any so to disguise their condition who haue not first had good practice and acquaintance with Friars in Italy as my selfe had Besides that all our skill was sharpened to greater warinesse by a late Tragicall example of others the memory whereof was daily and hourely before our eies For we beheld vpon the wall in the chamber where we lodged the names written of Henry Bacon and Andrew Verseline two English Gentlemen of Abraham Serwenterb Frederichson and Henry Vonwildt Peterson Van Narden two Flemmings whose names were written there vpon the foureteenth of August 1595 and lay before vs both sleeping and waking warning vs like so many prodigies or visions to take wary beed to our steps These foure comming in company to Ierusalem had beene receiued into this Monastery and when they had seene the monuments within and neere Ierusalem they went to Bethlehem where it happened that vpon a health drunke by the Flemmings to the King of Spaine which the English refused to pledge they fell from words to blowes so as two of them returned wounded to the Monastery of Ierusalem Then these Italian Friars according to the Papists manner who first make the sicke confesse their sinnes and receiue the Lords Supper before they suffer Physitian or Apothecary to come to them or any kitchin physicke to begluen them I say the Friars
neere a poore Village And our Muccaro bought vs some fresh victuals in the Village according to the manner of Turky where the very Cities yeeld no Innes Vpon Saturday towards euening wee set forward and rode that night ouer a large Plaine and next day after Sunne-rise wee came to Antioch a citie of Asia famous for the Patriarchate and by Histories sacred and prophane Vpon the east-side and vpon the top of a high Mountaine lye great ruines of the old walles and houses whence the seat of the citie declineth to the Plaine on the West side In which Plaine our Carauan rested the heat of this day neere the pleasant and large Fountaine of water wherin the Scriptures record so many to haue been baptized together as first in this place the faithfull had the name of Christians This Fountaine hath faire building and seemes of old to haue been very stately and here wee pitched our Tents in the middest of the Gardens of this Plaine within the walles For howsoeuer the ruines of the walles shew that of old the circuit of the citie was very large yet scarce the hundreth part thereof was now filled with houses Vpon the West side without the walles the citie is all compassed with a Riuer and a great Fen and vpon the East-side with Mountaines which situation makes it naturally strong Here first wretched I perceiued the imminent danger of my most deare brothers death which I neuer suspected til this day much lesse had any iust cause to feare it A Turke in this Carauan troubled with the same disease of a Flux went to the ground more then twentie times each nights iourney and yet liued whereas my brother only three or foure times descended from his Mule to that purpose which filled vs with good hope But here first I learned by miserable experience that nothing is worse for one troubled with the Flux then to stop or much restraine the course therof For my brother stopping this naturall purge by taking Red wine and Marmelat experienced men did attribute all too late his death to no other thing I could not hire a horse-litter by any endeuour of our Muccaro nor for any price though I offered an incredible summe for that or like commoditie to carrie him and we thought it very dangerous to stay here among the Turkes after our Carauan departed especially since Scanderona was but fiue and twenty miles distant where wee should haue the commoditie to lodge with an Englishman and so to get all necessaries for his recouerie Therefore vpon Sunday in the euening wee put all our prouisions in one of the foresaid couered chaires or cradles caried by the Camell and made my brother a bed in the other cradle where as we thought he might commodiously rest And I promised the Muccaro halfe a piastro for euery time my brother should descend from the Camell to ease himselfe for wee were to ride before with the horsemen and hee was now to come behind with the Camels So we set forward and my selfe twice in the night and once towards morning left the horsemen and rode back to my brother to know how he fared and when hee gaue mee no answere I returned to the horsemen thinking that he slept Then towards morning I was so afflicted with my wonted desire of sleepe as I thought an howers rest worth a Kings ransome Therefore my selfe and Master Iasper Tyrant our louing consort rode a good pace to the Village Byland where we were to pitch our Tents that we might make all things ready to receiue him But within short space our Muccaro running to our Tent and telling me that hee had left my brother ready to giue vp his last breth in the first house of the Village seemed to say to me Goe quickly and hang thy selfe With all possible speede I ran to this house imbraced my dying brother and confounded with sorrow vnderstood from his mouth how farre the euents of our nights iourney had been contrary to our hope For whereas my selfe aduised him to leaue his Mule and lie in the chaire vpon the Camels backe he told me that he was shaken in pieces with the hard pace of the Camell And whereas I had offered the Muccaro halfe a piastro for each time hee should light to ease himselfe he told mee that he had often asked this fauour of the Muccaro but could neuer obtaine it he excusing himselfe by feare to be left behind the Carauan for a prey to theeues And whereas the Camels hinder parts being higher then the fore parts I had laied my brothers head towards the hinder parts and raised it as high as I could with pillowes and clothes for his better ease it happened which I being ignorant of the way could not foresee that we all the night ascending mountaines his feet were farre higher then his head whereupon he told me that most part of the night he had lien in a trance which was the cause that he could not answer me at such times as I came to inquire of his health Thus mischiefe lighted vpon mischiefe to make my wretched state most miserable Why should I vse many words in a case from the remembrance whereof my mind abhorreth Therefore I will say in a word My most deere brother Henry vpon Munday the fourth of Iuly after the old stile the yeere of our Lord 1596 and of his age the seuen and twentieth died in my armes after many louing speeches and the expressing of great comfort in his Diuine meditations The Turkes presently snatched all things that were his as belonging to the Great Turke yea my selfe cast his shirts with many other things of good value and whatsoeuer I could see that was his out of the Tent into the Turkes hands and as a man halfe out of my wits could indure to see nothing that might renew the bitter remembrance of him The Turkish Officers in the Great Turkes name seazed vpon all the goods of Sir Iohn Spencer which Master Dorington sent with vs as if they had belonged to my brother neither could they be released without great bribes after the contrary was proued Presently I sent for the English Factor lying at Scanderona who scarcely obtained with the paying of fiue zechines to haue my brothers body buried in the open fields besides the Ianizares Turkes and Moores came in seuerall swarmes to me in this miserable case threatning to hinder his buriall or to dig him vp after hee was buried except I would satisfie their insatiable extortions And had not the foresaid English Factor taken vpon him to satisfie these people and taken vp my purse full of zechines which I cast among them in a rage surely for my part I had willingly giuen my selfe and all that I had with me to them for a prey One thing aboue measure afflicted me which I thinke Iob himselfe could not haue suffered namely that while my selfe and my brother were in our last imbraces and mournefull speeches the rascall
Camera being neere vs where the great Turkes Gallies lie By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East vpon the shore of Asia the lesse which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion and thereof hath the name to this day The Iland Marmora is so called as I think of themarble wherewith it aboundeth The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora and being by contrary winds driuen backe as I think or little aduanced we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles distant from Marmora and so called of the forme of a yard in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne or beate it small After the beginning of the new yeere which the Greekes as most of Europe begin the first of Ianuarie the first Wednesday being the fourth of that month the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times to baptize the Sea as they terme it which done they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compassed with Ilands and that very large and safe where while we passed some stormy daies wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away While I walked here vpon the shoare a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head being of the fashion of Europe not vsed there and hauing turned it and long beheld it he said to vse his rude words Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground which I with patience tooke vp These and like wrongs of speech euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them which many good Christians notwithstanding haue suffered and daily suffer and my selfe if they had fallen to my share must haue suffered with patience except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary at last wee set sayle with a faire winde and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth the best that euer I tasted and hauing sayled ten miles further we sailed by the Citie Heraclea seated on the shore of Greece whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantinople called the seuen Towers yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni This voyage was more tedious to vs in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet yet while we were at Sea we had no good victuals in the ship For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions Garlike and dried fishes one kinde whereof they call Palamides and the Italians call Palamite and in stead of a banket they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes and pleasantly call it a pigeon With this and Bisket they content themselues and these we were forced to eate hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia because wee hoped to find those in our Barke and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke wherewith we might dresse them But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes we had an vnknowne comfort or helpe to disgest them For in our priuat cabbin we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept in stead of a bolster and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes to beate off the force of the waues we taking one of the long Reedes found meanes to pierce the vessell and get good Wine to our ill fare and drunke so merrily that before wee came to our iournies end our former Reede became too short so as we were faine to piece it with another Hauing cast anchor as I said in the Port of Constantinople behold as soone as day began to breake many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke who like so many starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners if he durst but repine against it till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke and the goods and assoone as he came it seemed to me no lesse strange that this one man should beate all those Turkes and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier or especially a Ianizare then Christians dare resist them And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners though subiect to the State of Venice to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones and like base imployments this Ianizary caused them presently to be released and to be sent againe into their Barke such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their subiects as others so as no man sayleth into these parts but vnder the Banner of England France or Venice who being in league with the great Turke haue their Ambassadours in this Citie and their Consuls in other Hauens to protect those that come vnder their Banner in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me while I went to view the City round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space the forme of the Citie being triangular and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East and fiue miles by land towards the West I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography yet will I aduenture though rudely to set downe the forme and situation of this City so plainely as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it howsoeuer in the same as in other cities formerly described I acknowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale in the distance of places nor other exquisite rules of that Art hauing no other end but to make the Reader more easily vnderstand my description The description of the City of Constantinople and the adiacent Territories and Seas The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City and the single small lines describe the Teritory adioyning A In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter to direct the Saylers by night comming to the City or sayling along the coast out of the
Sea Euxinus which they say is called the Black Sea of many shipwracks therein happening And this Tower is sixteene miles distant from the Citie B Here is a marble pillar erected vpon a Rocke compassed with the sea which they call the pillar of Pompey and therein many passengers for their memory vse to ingraue their names And here are innumerable flocks of Sea foule and of many kindes wherewith hee that is skilfull to shoote in his Peece may abundantly furnish himselfe C Here is the Euxine or black Sea D E Here lie two strong Castles one in Europe the other in Asia some eight miles distant from the Citie built to defend the Hauen from the assault of the enemies by Sea on that side and the Garrison there kept searcheth the ships comming from the Citie that no slaues or prohibited goods be carried therein neither can any ship passe vnsearched except they will hazard to be sunck Finally the great Turke sends his chiefe prisoners to be kept in these strong Castles F Here great ships vse to cast anchor at their first arriuall till they bee vnloaded and here againe they ride at anchor to expect windes when they are loaded and ready to depart G All along this banke and the opposite side for a large circuit the greatest ships vse to lie when they are vnloaded and they lie most safely and close by the shore fastaned by cables on land H Here lyes the old Citie built by the Genoesi of Italy called Gallata by the Turks and Perah by the Greekes of the situation beyond the Channell It is now accounted a Suburbe of Constantinople and is seated vpon a most pleasant hill wherein for the most part liue Christians aswell subiects as others and the Ambassadours of England France and Venice only the Emperours Ambassadour must lye within the Citie more like a pledge of peace then a free Ambassadour and very few Turkes liue here mingled with the Christians The situation of Gallata as I said is most pleasant Formerly the Ambassadours of England were wont to dwell vpon the Sea-shore in the Plaine and their Pallace is not farre distant from this note K but Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour at this time dwelt vpon the top of the hill in a faire house within a large field and pleasant gardens compassed with a wall And all Gallata is full of very pleasant gardens and compassed with pleasant fields whereof some towards the land furthest from the Sea are vsed for the buriall of Turkes I Here a little Creeke of the Sea is compassed with walles and buildings within which the Gallies of the great Turke lie in safety and there be fit places to build Gallies and store-houses for all things thereunto belonging K Here is the chiefe passage ouer the water called Tapano where a man may passe for two aspers All along this Sea banke lye very many great Gunnes as vpon the Tower Wharfe at London and here the fishers land and sell their fish L Here the Megarenses of old built Chalcedon a Citie of Bethinia famous for a Councell held there by the ruine of which Citie Constantinople increased At this day there is onely a Village or rather some scattered houses and it is commonly called Scuteri or Scudretta M Here the Great Turks mother then liuing had her priuate Garden N Hither the Heyre of the Empire is sent as it were into banishment vnder pretence to gouerne the Prouince Bursia assoone as he is circumcised and so being made a Musulman that is a circumcised Turke first begins to draw the eyes of the Army and Ianizares towards him O Here is the Pallace or Court of the great Turke called by the Italians Seraglio and vulgarly Saray and it was of old the Monastery of Saint Sophia Mahomet the second first compassed it with walls and the buildings together with the large and pleasant gardens are some three or foure miles in circuit I entered the outward Court thereof by a stately Gate kept by many Ianizares called Capigi of that office The court yard was large all compassed with building of free stone two stories high with a low and almost plaine roofe tyled and without windowes after the maner of the building of Italy and round about the inside it was cast out with arches like the building of Cloisters vnder which they walked drie in the greatest raine And in this Court is a large pulpit or open roome where the great Turke vieth to shew himselfe to the Ianizares to satisfie them when they make any mutiny P Here is a banqueting house vulgarly called Chuske the prospect whereof is more pleasant then can be expressed beholding foure Seaes at once and the land on all sides beyond them Q Here is the Church of Saint Sophia opposite to the Court Gate of old built by the Christians after the forme of Salomons Temple and indowed with the annuall rent of three hundred thousand Zechines now made a Mosche or Mahometan Church And howsoeuer the Turks cannot indure that vnwashed Christians so called by them because they vse not Baths so continually as they doe should enter their Mosches or passe ouer their Sepulchers yet my self entered this Church with the Ianizare my guid trusting to his power to defend me yet he willed me first to put of my shooes and according to the Turkes custome to leaue them in the porch where they were late till we returned The Church is of a round forme and built of bricke and supported with faire pillars and paued with Marble ouer which the Turks layed Mats to kneele and prostrate themselues more commodiously vpon them The roofe is beautified with pictures of that rich painting which the Italians call alla Mosaica shining like enameled work which now by antiquity were much decaied and in some parts defaced Round about the Church hung many Lampes which they vse to burrie in the time of their Lent called Beyram and euery weeke vpon Thursday in the euening and Friday all day which they keepe holy after their fashion for their Sabbath day Round about the vpper part of the Church are large and most faire Galleries And here I did see two Nuts of Marble of huge bignesse and great beauty Moreouer I did see the great Turke when he entered this Church and howsoeuer it lie close to the Gate of his Pallace yet he came riding vpon a horse richly trapped with many troopes of his chiefe horsemen standing in ranke within the Courts of his Pallace and from the Court Gate to the Church dore betweene which troopes on both sides he passed as betweene walles of brasse with great pompe And when a Chaus or Pensioner being on horseback did see mee close by the Emperours side hee rushed vpon me to strike me with his mace saying What doth this Christian dog so neere the person of our great Lord But the Ianizare whom our Ambassadour had giuen me for a Guide and Protector repelled him from doing mee any wrong and many Ianizares
for sixe lires and giuing a gold crowne I receiued backe eight soldi In Piemont a French crowne is giuen for ten florines somewhat more a siluer crowne for eight florines And twelue grossi make a florine foure quatrini make a grosso foure soldi make a bianco seuen quatrines make a soldo sixe soldi and sixe quatrines make a florino twelue quatrini make a caualotto and foure caualotti make a florino Lastly in the Dukedonie of Mantua a zecchine of Venice is giuen for eight lires and twelue soldi a gold crowne of Mantua for seuen lires a siluer crowne for sixe lires and foure soldi Foure trantis make a soldo two soldi make a parpayollo sixe soldi make a Barbarino ten soldi and a halfe make a giulio twelue soldi and a halfe make a Spanish riall 20 soldi make a lire 2 trantis make a susine and 3 deners of Mantua make a trantis The great Turke coynes a piece of gold called Sultanon ' and it is of the same standard finenesse and value with the Hungarian ducket aboue mentioned among the moneys of Germany In Affrick those of Barbary haue a gold Ducat commonly current among Christians which is so rare in Turkey as I do not remember to haue seene any piece there of spent there Neither haue the Affricans any mines of gold but they carry salt to Ganger and thence bring this gold And this Barbary duckat of gold is of the standard of three and twentie caracts and the fourth part of a graine and three penny weight wanting two graines and at this day in England it is giuen for nine shillings two pence sterling which of late was worth no more then eight shillings foure pence sterling To conclude the gold zechine of Venice and the Spanish peeces of siluer of foure and eight Reali and the very siluer of Venice are so commonly spent in Turkey as the gold and siluer of Turkey seemes despised or at least is seldome spent But because this vast Dominion hath large circuit it will not be amisse to name the moneys currant in diuers places And first I forewarne the passenger that in all places he is in danger who shewes his money but most of all among the Turkes where to be rich is more dangerous then the greatest crime can be obiected either in respect of the couetous Iudge in publike or the rauinous nature of each man in priuate neither doth any thing more prouoke the Turkes to lay snares for the vn wary passenger So as howsoeuer it be not improuidently done to carry summes of gold or siluer by sea in Barks of Christians yet I would aduise a passenger to be wary how he shew them among Christians and much more among Turkes and aduise him rather to make shew to draw his money from a little purse hiding his greater store then in payments to pull it out by heapes The Greeke Iland Zante subiect to the Venetians hath Venice money and a gold zechine was giuen there for eleuen Lires and two gagets Likewise the Greeke Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians hath the moneys of Venice where a gold zechine was giuen for eleuen lires and to the Turkes landing there at a higher rate The siluer crowne called piastro was there giuen for six lires and about foure soldi And here I found a siluer peece which I neuer found to be spent in the State of Venice namely a perper worth eight soldi and eight baggatini of Venice The Greeke Iland Cyprus subiect to the Turkes spends the Venetian gold and siluer lires but receiues not the peeces of eight soldi nor the lesser moneys of Venice neither are the Venetian lires currant any further then this Iland though perhaps they may be spent with some losse vpon the Coast adioyning At Cyprus the gold zechine was giuen for eleuen lires of Venice and for 120 aspers of Turkey and the siluer crown called piastro or a piece of eight Reali Spanish was giuen for seuenty Aspers and the gold Sultanon of Turkey was of the same value with the zechine of Uenice yet the very Subiects more willingly receiued the zechines The Turkish Asper is a little peece of siluer which at Haleppo in Syria was worth some three farthings English and eight aspers at Cyprus made one scahy a Turkish money which the Italians call Seya being esteemed at little more then sixe pence English and fifteene scahy made a zechine twelue scahy made a French or Spanish Crowne ten scahy made a piastro or Spanish peece of eight Reali And sixteene brasse Mangouri made one siluer Asper neither can any money of Cyprus be spent in Palestine without losse At Ierusalem and through all Palestine and those parts the gold zechines of Venice are more esteemed as in all Turkey then any other peeces of gold and the very Turkes more willingly receiue them then the Turkish Sultanons At Ierusalem a zechine was giuen for fiue and forty meidines of Cairo in AEgypt the Spanish peece of eight Reali called plastro was giuen for eight and twenty meidines and halfe a piastro at the same rate neither haue they any Aspers there but these meidines onely where of each is worth three Aspers so as the fiue and forty meidines giuen for the zechine are worth 135 Aspers and the eight and twenty meidines giuen for the piastro are worth eighty foure aspers The gold crownes of France and Spaine are not spent here without losse but the siluer duckets of Italy are commodious to be spent here At Tripoli in Syria and at Haleppo and in the territories adioyning the foresaid siluer aspers are commonly spent The gold zechine of Venice is there worth ninety meidines and the Spanish piastro worth sixty but these meidines of Tripoli differ from the other of Cayro in AEgypt for those of Tripoli are each worth one asper and a halfe but those of Cayro are each worth three Aspers At Constantinople all contracts are made by aspers howsoeuer the foresaid peeces of gold and siluer be there also currant And in small contracts they pay aspers by the weight because they cannot easily number them but in great contracts they reckon by Asses loades of aspers as the English doe by hundred and thousand pounds Lastly at Constantinople I exchanged gold zechines each at 125 aspers a French Crowne at one hundred aspers and a doller of Germany at 75 aspers The gold French Crowne is of the standard of two and twenty caracts and is two penny weight foure graines and a quarter The siluer peece called Quart d'escu that is the fourth part of a crowne is of the standard of eleuen ounces and is six penny weight foure graines and is worth two Venice Lires or eighteene pence sterling English The peece of Siluer called Francke is of the standard of nine ounces ten penny weight and eighteene penny weight sixeteene graines and is worth two shillings English The French Crowne
is exchanged for three Franckes or for foure Quarts d'escn or for little more then foure testoones For foureteen soulz and a halfe make a testoon fifteene soulz make a Quart d'esca and twenty soulz make a francke and sixty soulz make a French crowne and twelue deniers make a soulz Yet a gold French crowne In specie that is in kind is changed for sixty fiue soulz As in like sort in England a French crowne is worth no more then six shillings and the English Angell is worth no more then 11. shillings in common estimation yet he that brings a weighty a French crowne In specie to the Gold-smyths they will giue him sixe shilling six pence for it and he that brings to them an old Angell of gold they will gine him 11. shillings and six pence or more for it And in the last ciuill warre the value of the French crowne was raised to 120 soulz till the King reduced the same to the old value after the warre composed The same King Henry the fourth since that time raised the value of gold crownes to the end he might draw backe his gold which was carried into forraine parts My selfe passing through Lorayne before the French ciuil warre was fully appeased did at Monwicke vpon the confines of Lorayne and German exchange a French crowne for foure franckes and nine grosh and shortly after comming to Shallons exchanged a French crowne for no more then sixty soulz so as I guesse that either the Franckes of Lor aine differ from the Franckes of France or that the tumult of the warre and the making of peace shortly after made this difference Of the diuers measures of miles through diuers parts of the world FVrther being to write of the diuers measures of miles through the diuers parts of the World it seemed good to me to adde the measure of miles vulgarly receiued namely that fiue Italian miles or three French or two and a halfe English make one Dutch mile and that one Dutch mile and a halfe makes a mile of Sweitzerland It remaines now that according to my owne experience I should speake something of the diuers kindes of miles And in generall this my opinion hath respect to the difficult or easie passages of the way since euen in England the miles seeme and indeed are more short neere London where the waies are faire and plaine and frequently inhabited as they seeme and indeed are more long and tedious through the desart places of the North ouer mountaines and through vninhabited and difficult passages The Romans of old held a thousand paces for a mile and such are the miles of Italie A common English mile makes one a halfe Italian but towards the North in some particular places of England the miles are longer among which the Kentish mile being a Southerne County is prouerbially held to be extraordinarily long The Irish miles among the English and the Irish-English are answerable to the English howsoeuer for the solitary and disinhabited wayes and many foards often ouerflowed they are more troublesome to passe In like sort the miles of Scotland answere to the Northerne miles of England saue that the frequent climing of mountaines and the vnbeaten waies make them seeme longer and indeed require more time for the passage Villamont a French gentleman in the book of his trauels witnesseth that one French mile containes two Italian miles The common Germain mile being for the most part in plaines makes more then three English or fiue Italian miles but in some places the solitude of Woods and the ascent of Mountaines make the miles of Germany seeme much longer and Sueuia extraordinarily hath long miles though it be a plaine Countrey The miles of Sweitzerland being ouer continuall Mountaines are so long as passengers distinguish their iourney more by the spaces of howers then by the distances or numbers of miles And I remember that finding no horse to be hired I went on foote from Scaphusen to Zureth which iourney I was going ten howers being accounted but foure miles And in Rhaetia among the Grisons vpon the confines of Italy one mile is held for sixe Italian miles And vpon the foote of the Alpes towards the North one mile is accounted for seuen miles and a halfe of Italy where hauing a good horse I could ride with an ordinarie pace no more then one Dutch mile in foure howers space By which appeares that the measure of miles is very vncertaine among the Sweitzers who for the most part reckon their iourneys by howers riding or going with an ordinary pace and not by miles The miles of Bohemia and Morauia are no lesse tedious and I remember that my selfe passing there on horseback did commonly ride no more then foure miles in a dayes iourney And howsoeuer the length of the Sweitzers and Bohemian miles may in part be attributed to the climbing of Mountaines and bad waies yet no such reason can be giuen for the miles of Morauia which Country is either a plaine or little pleasant Hilles and the waies faire and the Countrey well inhabited The Low-Countrey miles are of a middle length betweene the German and French miles But in the very Country of Holland they differ much one from another since foure miles of great Holland make sixe miles of little Holland And I remember that about the Citie Horne I esteemed each mile longer then three English Also next to the Holland miles those of Freesland are longer then the rest A mile of Denmark is somewhat longer then three English miles and answereth to the common mile of Germany The miles of Poland generally are like the miles of Denmarke but they differ in length one from the other For I remember that in Prussia each dayes iourny I passed by coach some seuen miles and in middle Poland nine or ten miles but in vpper Poland towards Germany I commonly rode on horse-back no more then fiue miles or there-abouts each day in my passage from Crakaw to Morauia In Russia among the Moscouites confining vpon Poland a mile is called a ferse and answeres to fiue Italian miles or one common mile of Germany In Turkey those that guide Christians hauing the Italian tongue doe in my opinion number the miles to them much after the Italian manner THE REBELLION OF HVGH EARLE OF TYRONE AND THE APPEASING THEREOF WRITEN IN FORME OF A IOVRNALL PART II. BOOKE I. CHAP. I. Of the Induction or Preface to my Irish Iournall and a compendious narration how CHARLES BLOVNT Lord Mountioy my Lord and Master of happy memorie was chosen Lord Deputy of Ireland and of this worthy Lords qualitie as also of the Councels in generali by which he broke the Kebels hearts and gane peace to that trenbled State Together with his particular actions in the end of the yeere 1599. AT my returne from Scotland about the month of September in the yeere 1598 I retyred my selfe
to serue in forraigne war then to liue by infamous courses at home In Poland the Gentlemen are most prone to quarrels cum bats and murthers especially if they be heated with drink as many times they are and that because of the vnfit priuiledges they haue aboue others and because they haue power of life and death in their owne Territories neither can be called in question for criminall matters but in the publike Parliament held once in three yeeres or there abouts where they are also tried by Gentlemen who for consanguinity friendship or the common cause are like to be fauourable to them And they care not greatly vpon what vnequall termes they offer violence nor how many they be that set vpon their aduersarie Some Gentlemen who haue been in forraine parts are much more ciuill then the rest but in generall there is no place where a stranger ought more to auoid quarrels especially if hee stand not vpon equall termes as not hauing one or more Gentlemen on his part In the meane time all that can here offer violence being Gentlemen to whom the rest are slaues either for feare of infamy or for the aboundance they haue of all things for life robbers by the highway are very rare in Poland and a passenger may safely carry ready money about him especially if he conceale it It were in vaine to giue any precepts for quarrels in Turkey where a Christian not onely may not quarrell but not so much as carry a sword no nor looke a Turke in the face without a Bastinado For the Turkes among themselues they seldome or neuer fight a combate The Citizens and men of inferiour degrees stand in as humble awe of their souldiers as the Christians doe of them neither dare lift vp the head or hand against a common Souldier though they were one hundred against one And the Souldiers howsoeuer they brawle among themselues like butter-wiues yet they neuer strike one another the Lawes being most seuere in the punishment thereof Theeues are lesse to be feared there because passengers neither goe nor ride alone but in Carauanes that is a multitude of men and loaded Cammels yet the Christians commended to the protection of those that leade the Carauans not onely by friends but by bribes and chancing to meet by the way any Ianizaries shal be forced to giue them such victuals as they carry especially wine except they haue a Ianizary to protect them whereof one will serue to defend them against the iniuries of a thousand chancing to meet them but they seldome doe the Christian passengers any other wrong then this consuming of their prouisions Howsoeuer in all euents I would aduise no Christian of the better sort hauing meanes for fit expences to goe any iourney without a Ianizarie to protect him especially since at Constantinople from one Christian Ambassadour or other he may easily obtaine a Ianizaric to attend him faithfully and at a very easie rate At which Citie it is most fit for a Christian to begin his iourney into other parts of Turkie Howsoeuer hee may likewise obtaine such a Ianizaric of some Christian Consull either at Halepo in spria or at Cayro called also Babilon in Egipt and at other frequented places vpon the Sea const And this Ianizaric for some eight Aspers a day wages will faithfully helpe the Christian of whom hee is hired not as a companion but rather as a free kinde of seruant Englishmen especially being young and vnexperienced are apt to take all things in snuffe Of olde when they were senced with Bucklers as with a Rampier nothing was more common with them then to fight about taking the right or left hand or the wall or vpon any vnpleasing countenance Clashing of swords was then daily musicke in euery streete and they did notionely fight combats but cared not to set vpon their Enemie vpon aduantages and vnequall termes But at this day when no nation labours more then the English as well by trauailing into fortaine Kingdomes as by the studie of good letters and by other meanes to enrich their mindes with all vertues I say in these dayes they scorne such men and esteeme them of an idle braine who for ridiculous or trifling causes runne the triall of single fight and howsoeuer they behaue themselues stoutly therein yet they repute them to haue lost as much opinion of wisedome as they haue gayned of daring Much more doe they despise them who quarrell and fight in the streetes publiquely and doe not rather make priuate triall of their difference as also those who make quarrels with men of base condition yea they thinke them in famous who with disparity of number doe many assaile one man and for this beastly quality comparing them to Hogges whereof when one grunts all the Heard comes to helpe him they thinke them worthie of any punishment besides that vpon killing any man mercie is seldome or neuer shewed them howsoeuer in other faire combats the Princes mercie hath many times giuen life to the man-slayer And the cause why single fights are more rare in England in these times is the dangerous fight at single Rapier together with the confiscation of man-slayers goods So as I am of opinion contrarie to the vulgar and think them worthie of praise who inuented dangerous weapons as Rapiets Pistols Gunnes and Gunpowder since the inuention whereof much smaller nomber of men hath perished by single fights or open warre then in former times and conquests and such inundations of barbarous people as were those of the Gothes Hunnes and Longobards are much lesse to bee feared Nothing did in olde time more animate strong Tyrants and Gyants to oppresse weaker men then the huge waight of their Clubs and of their armes where with Goliah had easily quelled Dauid if God had not put in his minde to fight against him with a new kinde of weapon more suteable to his strength I returne to the purpose and doe freely professe that in case of single fights in England the Magistrate doth fauour a wronged stranger more then one of the same Nation howsoeuer the Law fauours neither and that a stranger so fighting neede feare no treason by any disparitie or otherwise But in the meane time here in all places happy are the peaceable Let me adde one thing of corrupt custome in England that those who are not gowne men neuer haue the opinion of valour till in their youth they haue gayned it with some single fight which done they shall after liue more free from quarrels But it were to be wished that a better way were found to preserue reputation then this of single fights aswell contrary to the Law of God as a capitall crime by the Lawes of men Theeues in England are more common then in any other place so farre as I haue obserued or heard but hauing taken purses by the high way they seldome or neuer kill those they rob The true man hauing strength armes and courage may cheerefully resist
the Citie There is great art for a Traueller to conceale his Religion in Italy and Spaine with due wisdome and without offending his conscience for if a man would seeme as I may say a Puritan Papist which sort they call piachia petti that is Brest-beaters there is danger to fall into the suspition of an Hypocrite For the Italians well know Chi te carezzapin che far ' no' suole O Che gabbato t' ba O che gabbar ' te vuole Who more then he was wont doth court and woe He hath deceiu'd thee or faine would so doe And they haue often read that of Tacitus Quo magis ficta sunt quae faciunt eò plura faciunt The more any doe dissemble The more to doe they are nimble Also the Traueller must beware not to fall into such errors as I obserued two of my familiar friends yet in a safe place and free of danger grossely to fall into Of which one being a German and liuing in the State of Florence when hee returned after dinner to his lodging and his hostesse asked where hee had been made answer that hee came from hearing of a Masse whereas Masses are onely sung in the morning and when the Priests are fasting The other being an Englishman and going to Rome in a disguised habit did weare apparrell of so many colours and so strange fashions as by the same being most strange and vncomely not onely in the sight of his owne Countrymen but also of the Italians he drew the eyes of all Iesuites and Romans vpon him so as they began to inquire after him and he hardly escaped thence by speedy flight and when they pursued him had fallen into their snares if he had not been forewarned of his danger by an Italian friend To these I will adde a third who being an Englishman and by freedome of speech voluntarily professing himselfe a Frenchman was discouered by me at that time also disguised and by chance falling into his company but hee learning at that time that nothing was more safe then silence afterwards escaped dangers into which otherwise he might easily haue fallen My selfe liued in Italy and for the space of one yeere neuer heard a Masse but daily I went out of my chamber in the morning as if I had gone to the Masse At my very first comming into Italy I presently went to Rome and Naples and so at my first enterance passed my greatest dangers that hauing satisfied my curiositie if perhaps in my returne I should happen to feare any danger I might more contentedly and speedily escape away For they who stay at Paduoa some moneths and after goe to Rome may be sure that the Iesuites and Priests there are first by their spies aduertised not onely of their comming but also of their condition and the most manifest signes of their bodies whereby they may bee knowne Moreouer I being at Rome in Lent time it happened that some few dayes before Easter a Priest came to our lodging and tooke our names in writing to the end as he told vs that we might receiue the Sacrament with our Hosts family Therefore I went from Rome vpon Tuseday before Easter and came to Sienna vpon good Friday and vpon Easter-euen pretending great busines tooke my iourney to Florence where I staied onely Easter day and from thence went to Pisa and before the ende of Easter weeke returned in haste to Sienna where I had a Chamber which I kept when I was at Rome and where I meant now to abide for a time Thus by often changing places I auoyded the Priests inquiring after mee which is most dangerous about Easter time when all men receiue the Sacrament Yet indeede there is lesse danger of the Inquisition in the State of Florence then other where as there is no danger thereof at all in the State of Venice to him that can hold his peace and behaue himselfe modestly One thing I cannot omit that some few dayes before Easter when I was ready to come from Rome I aduentured to visit Bellarmine and that in the lesuites Colledge professing my selfe to bee a Frenchman and wearing Italian clothes and that after their manner which is a matter of no small moment for if I had not been wary therein the crastie spies of Rome would easily haue knowne mee by some gesture or fashion of wearing my clothes which they know to bee proper to the English as the muffling a mans face with his cloke or the like But especially I tooke heede not to gase on the Colledge walles a manifest signe of a stranger nor to looke stedfastly in the face of any Englishman chancing to meete mee whereof some were like to haue knowne mee in the Vniuersitie of Cambridge least by such beholding of them I might draw their eyes to looke earnestly on mee for one looke inuites another And with these cautions I did happily satisfie this my curiositie Also vpon good iudgement I made my selfe knowne to Cardinall Allan when I first came from Naples to Rome and when hee had promised mee his protection holding my peace and abstaining from publike offence I rested thereupon for the worst euents yet withall to auoide the conuersation and familiaritie of Priests and Englishmen yea euen of those that were of the Cardinals family I first left the common Inne then changed my hired chamber taking another in a poore house close vnder the Popes Pallace as a place least like to be searched I doe not commend the curiositie to be present at seeing the rites of a contrary Religion which was the death of two young men and gaue occasion to the first Macedonian warre the people of Rome assisting the murtherers and the King of Macedon desiring to reuenge the death of the two young men Informertimes and now to this day the Turkes vse to fling stones at the Christians whom they call vnwashed dogs because they vse not Baths when they come neere to their Moschees or their Sepulchers The Papists doe no lesse persecute the Reformed Church with fier and sword And howsoeuer one of the Reformed profession may liue in Italy and yet neuer communicate with them in their rites by the foresaid gouerning of the tongue by going out of his chamber each morning as if hee went to Masse for the Italians generally thinke they are not safe till in the morning they haue worshipped the Hostia at the eleuation thereof which their deuotion is done in a moment and by changing places of abode with like discreete carriage yet since it is dangerous to see their rites yea perhaps sinfull why should he not restraine his curiosity to heare their Masses see their cerimonies especially all the monuments of the Churches being to be seene at another time of the day But if any will needs be present at their Masses either to please his companions or for his owne pleasure as going to see a stage-play or for curiositie wherewith many are led Of two euils he must chuse the
vse of thy victorie Besides that wit and wisedome cannot generally be thus ioyned in one subiect except we will graunt that women commonly most wittie are also commonly most wise There is a mediocrity required in wisedome Nolt altum sapere Be not too wise cuen as Salomon aduiseth not to be too lust meaning in outward appearance for the inward man cannot be too iust But mediocrity perhaps will be iudged rather to be found in the inhabiters of the worlds middle regions Againe howsoeuer wee may graunt that the Italians in the founding of their Empire by valiant acts and learned writings left notable markes and euidences of their wisedome yet in our age they may perhaps be preferred to others for some indowments of Nature but must yeeld the preheminence of valour and learning to some other Nations The vaine wisedome of man tires it selfe in vaine while it attributes so many and so great changes in the world to this or that Clime or Starre or any naturall cause rather then to looke backe to the first mouer of all humane things and acknowledge his finger in the disposing of them They affirme that the Northerne people are most cruell and Tacitus accuseth the Germanes Transsilnanians and olde Brittaines of cruelty Bodine disputes wittily against this opinion first because fat men as the Northerne are better men then those who are leane as the Southerne men be and he calls Caesar to witnesse who was not afraid of the fat men Anthony and Dolabella but of the leane men Brutus and Castius In my opinion fat men whose heate is decayed are thereby lesse bold for any great enterprise Onely I admire Luther who alone and weake did wonderfully oppose himselfe to the great multitude of Papists and power of the Popes But I remember that Melancton a leane man and skilfull in the Greeke Hebrew tongues and vniuersally learned did assist him yea the Germanes say that Melancton was more learned and Luther more bold So as according to the course of the world it is likely that Melancton did much in that great worke whereof Luther bare the name Besides that we must attribute the happy and wonderfull reformation of Religion to higher causes then those vnder the Moone namely not to the naturall heate of men but to the boldnesse proceeding from the diuine heat of the holy spirit Bodine affirmes that Northerne men because they are fat are lesse prone to the extremities of good or euill and so concludes them to be lesse cruell which he shewes by examples in that the Carthaginians and other people of the South vsed to pull out eyes to pull off the skinne to burne with a slow fier and to impale or set vpon stakes and to vse like cruelties towards condemned men and that those of America vse to smeare their children with the blood of their enemies whereas on the contrary the Romans were mercifull first beheading condemned men then by the law of percins forbidding Citizens to be beaten with rods after punishing by staruing by banishment In my opinion he might haue added the lenity of the Britans being more northward where the greatest offences are punished with hanging except 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 drawing and quartering are added yet the seuerity thereof is commonly 〈◊〉 by letting them hang till they be dead Bodine addes that Northerne men did alwaies assaile with open force and were soone pacified whereas Southerne men assuled with Fox-like craft and were cruell to those that submitted to them But in the end while he confesseth that the Germans being Northern break the bones of condemned men vpon the wheele and that the Greekes being southerly put to death by 〈◊〉 of the Hemlocke and that in Chios they mingle water to make them die without paine by these contradictions he rather obscures then illustrates that which he would proue For my part while I consider these and like examples so contrary in both kindes together with the great changes of the World in diuers times so as they whom one age were cruell become in another age mercifull While I consider the old in egrity of the Romans when they reproched the Carthaginians to be breakers of faith and find them after to become greater breakers thereof concluding that no faith is to be kept with Heretikes with which note they brand any enemy at pleasure and bringing in diuellish equiuocation the plague of integrity which takes away all faith among men and lastly prouing these things not with words but with fier and sword Vpon these considerations I am induced to conclude not onely for cruelty but for all vices and vertues That Southerne men as more witty if they be good proue best if ill proue worst and that the degrees of good or ill proceed not from wit but from the application of it to good or ill Therefore not the North nor the South but Phylosophicall precepts godly lawes and the knowledge of Gods word or otherwise the wants thereof make men good or ill and where knowledge religion and good lawes flourish there vertues are practised but among barbarous and superstitious people liuing in Cimerian darkenesse all vices haue euer and will for euer flourish Abraham conceiued iust feare lest for his Wiues beauty he should suffer violence and death only because the feare of God was not in those places where he soiourned for this feare of God in himselfe mercifull and so commanding his children to be mercifull doth restraine the most fierce natures from offering any wrong to their neighbours Also Phylosophy did keepe the very Heathen within limits of honesty and Iustice which as the Poet saith Emollit mores nee sinit esse feros Doth soften manners with remorse And keepes them from a furious course In like sort old Writers affirme that Northern men are most perfidious but nothing is more easie then in all sorts of men to find examples of perfidiousnes 〈◊〉 witnesseth that the old Egyptians were naturally most perfidious yet are they most southerly In like sort the Southerne Carthaginians were of old most infamous for treacherous acts On the contrary many Histories taxe northerne men for breaking leagues Also the Northerne Gothes Southerne Spaniards obiected mutuall breaches of faith one to the other Therefore as I said knowledge and religion are the causes of all vertues as ignorance and atheisme or superstition are the causes of all vices neither are these causes hereditary to any clime or nation but are dispersed through the world by supernal distribution diuersly at diuers times They write that Southerne men are rather sparing and frugall then couetous and that Northerne men are prodigall and giuen to rapine but the Egyptian Cleopatra passed the Romans and all others in luxury And at this day nothing can be added to the rapacitie and couetousnesse of the Turks and more specially of those most towards the South daily exercised both against Christians and among themselues And this seemes to be attributed to their corrupt and
some faire passing that age Many such examples are not wanting in England and Ireland to proue that Northerne men are longest liued My selfe haue knowne some and haue credibly heard of many more weomen of one 100 yeers age in these Kingdomes The Irish report and will sweare it that towards the West they haue an Iland wherein the Inhabitants liue so long as when they are weary and burthened with life their children in charity bring them to die vpon the shoare of Ireland as if their Iland would not permit them to die In ourtime the Irish Countesse of Desmond liued to the age of about 140 yeeres being able to goe on foote foure or fiue miles to the Market Towne and vsing weekly so to doe in her last yeeres and not many yeeres before shee died shee had all her teeth renewed Againe Bodine may best be confuted with his owne argument for as he saith that Sortherne men are longest liued so he confesseth that they are most giuen to venery whereas they that are like the Cocke Sparrow cannot be long liued And whereas old writers affirme that the Inhabitants of the middle regions are of shortest life because Southerne men vsed to great heate and Northern men vsed to great cold can easily beare them both but the Inhabitants of the middle regions being oppressed both with cold and heate are subiect to these changes of the Ayre which breed diseases and old age This seemes to me as if they should say that custome makes extreme things but not temperate things to be tollerable since those of the middle regions are no lesse vsed to the changes of their temperate ayre then the others are to the extremities and their changes Giue me leaue to say contrary to the vulgar opinion that the purenes or any properties of the ayre doe not so much cause long or short life as the changes of ayre by long iournies or by remouing mens dwellings from one ayre to another which changes are more powerfull the more violent they are and that to men of all climes whether they iourney or remoue dwelling from the North to the South or from the South towards the North. This experience teacheth by many examples First of great trauailers whereof infinite nombers in youth die before they returne home Secondly of those that dwell in the Fennes of Lincolnshire and of Essex in England where they that are borne and liue all their dayes in those Fennes and in that vnhealthfull ayre liue to be of very olde age and with good health but it they remoue dwelling to a purer ayre soone die as likewise they that are borne in purer ayre and come after to dwell in those Fennes liue very short time This in generall I say because many very aged people are found in those Fennes but particularly I am confirmed in this opinion as by many other so by one pleasant example of a Husbandman whom my selfe did see in Essex who dwelling in the Fennes not farre off was threescore yeares olde healthfull and like to liue long and within few yeares past had married and buried eight wiues all which hee had brought to his house in the Fennes vpon one Nagge of some fortie shillings price for these women borne in purer ayre soone died after they came to dwell with him in the Fennes Many proue that Southerne men are most religious by their sumptuous Churches in which it is a great trespasse so much as to sper by the very Princes of Affrick entring the profession of Monkes by their Fasts frequent praying whipping of themselues lawes made against irreligious persons and the Pontificiall habit of their Kings On the contrarie they affirme that Northerne men as women and children soone make and as soone breake leagues of amitie doe soone and greedily imbrace any Religion and no lesse speedily cast it off againe As the Ostrogothes and Visigothes being driuen from their seate became Christians vnder the raigne of the Emperour Valens and soone after terrified with burnings fell from the Christian Faith And the Gothes in Italy first became Christians then Arrians Yea Gotland soone receiued the Christian Faith and presently returned to their Idolatrie And the Turkes soone fell to the Arabians Religion As also Tartares were easily drawne on both hands for the point of Religion And lastly the Germanes taxing the Papall frauds together with their neighbours did of their owne accord fall from the Popes obedience without any force or violent constraining But on the contrarie that Southerne men euer did slowly imbrace any new Religion and howsoeuer they were often diuided into Sects yet could neuer be drawne to change their Religion without miracles and force of Armes So as Antiochus by no torment could draw any one of seuen brethren or their mother that exhorted them to be constant so much as to tast Swines flesh It is easie to oppose examples and arguments to the fore-said examples and arguments If we behold the Temples Monasteries Bels and other old ornaments or religious vestures of our Northerne Iland England no doubt they farre paste those of the South where neither the present Churches building nor the ruines of like olde building shew the like if any magniffcence Yea rather the Sepulchres then the Moschees or Churches of the South may be thought sumptuous Neither want we examples of Northerne Kings as of the Saxons in England and Gothes in Italy who put on Monks habits nor yet of Nations in Europe who haue violently with much suffering maintained their rites of Religion Moreouer see how these men omit to distinguish superstition from Religion They confesse that the Northerne men first discouered the Papall fraudes yet they will also haue them more simple whence it followes that the sharpe-witted Southerne men did first see these fraudes and couer them for feare of the Popes persecutions or because they esteemed Religion onely a State policie and knowing the truth yet abstained from reformation Surely Petrarch Dante 's and other free wits of Italy did see the Papall frauds before the Germanes and though fearefully yet plainly pronounced Rome to be Babylox But our Northerne Luther when at Rome he had seene the licentious Romanes and their criminall frauds could not abstaine but he must needes diuülge these impostures of Religion and being weake for his defence yet could not but oppose himselfe to most powerfull enemies Northerne men are soone drawne with the loue of Religion the of feare due to God they like Foxes may command ouer Lyons which our good Epimethei at last by the euents perceiuing doe so much abhorre all hypocrisie and whorish painting of Religion as by no danger they can bee frighted from professing truth whose constancy in suffering persecution for the same is abundantly witnessed by the multitude of them burnt in France as Sleyden writes of his owne sight and by the more violent at least more lasting persecution of them by fier vnder Marie late Queene of England Therefore let vs say that Northerne men are
and like permanent things All the buildings haue Thrasonicall inscriptions either ingrauen or painted vpon them of the founders praise and almost of his pedegree The houses of Citizens and of the common sort are of vnpolished stone and commonly of little flints lowly built with a roofe almost lying flat without windowes and couered with tiles The Gentlemens Pallaces are most frequent and are built as well in Cities as in the Country of carued freestone and marble and most of them altogether of diuers coloured Marbles For they haue many Quarryes of marble so as the same being not farre fetcht the magnificence of their building is rather in shew then in charge to bee preferred before our buildings of polished free-stone Many of their Pallaces seeme fit to receiue a King with his Court for the stately building but not for the capacity the Italian Families being small and solitary The building of them is in such fashion as the first vpper chamber is large and as long as a gallerie fit to intertaine great companies with feastes and dancing the windowes being great and lying open to admit ayre and couered with Arras to leane vpon and hauing on the inside windowes of wood to close by night The rest of the Chambers are on each side of this Gallerie richly furnished with Hangings Beds imbrodered and sumptuous furniture and Tapestrie spread vnder feete where the chayres stand but the roomes are narrow and haue little windowes couered but not with glasse For the windowes of all Italy are couered with linnen cloth or paper onely the Citie of Venice boasts of the singularitie that the windowes thereof are commonly glazed yet so are also the windowes of some few Pallaces in other parts The Italians more willingly spend their money in building wherein they delight to haue coole chambers with open Tarrasses lying vpon waters and shades on the sides of the house where the Sunne least comes and likewise in adorning Fountaines with shade seates and images in making caues vnder the earth and water-conduits then in any earthly thing their mistresse alwaies excepted And because they cannot indure labour for their diseased ioynts or the heate of the Countrie they striue to make their staires very easie and by much compassing to raise the ground by little and little wherein they vse so great Art as in some places a horseman may with ease and almost vnsensible ascent ride vp to the top of high Towers The floares of their vpper chambers are not boarded but paued with plaster or with a matter made of lime and tiles Some Cities as Bologna Padona and others in the Dukedome of Mantua are built with arches towards the streete like Cloysters of Monasteries and how soeuer the streete is durty yet vnder them is pleasant and dry walking euen in rainy weather For other Cities the streetes whereof lie open at Rome they are paued conueniently with flints at Sienna beautifully with brickes at Florence Pistoia Lucca and Naples stately with Freestone very broad and easie Touching Tarky in the Greeke Ilands in Asia and Affricke commonly the houses are built of vnpolished stones and flint onely one roofe high and many times with arches towards the street alwaies with windowes not glased or couered but open and the floare on the top of houses is beaten plaine with plaster and compassed with a wall indented on the top some yard high And here in the open aire they eate and walke by day and lodge at night so as a man may see all his neighbours in bed about him For they are seldome some once or twice in the yeere about September troubled with raine Particularly at Ierusalem for their locks the keyes be made of wood not of Iron At Constantinople and in the Prouinces adioyning the houses are commonly of impolished stone and flint or of timber and clay plastered or of earth formed like bricke but not hardned by fier and are built some two stories high and with a roofe almost lying flat without windowes and couered with tiles much after the common building of Italy In generall the houses haue large windowes not closed with glasse or other thing but altogether open only by night to be closed with wodden windowes after the Italian manner The streetes of Constantinople are narrow raised on each side for the passage of men and women but there also narrow the middle part of the streetes being so broad as one Asse or like beast loaded may passe for they vse no Coaches or Carts The Sultans or Emperours Pallace vulgarly called Saray and by the Italians Seraglio is of some three square Courtyards built round about of Freestone and pieces of Marble with arches towards the yard like Cloysters which are paued with broad stones this Pallace hath a very spatious Garden round compassed with a stone wall Some few Pallaces of the Visiers or Bashaes in this City are built of polished Freestone two roofes high with the highest roofe almost flat after the manner of the Italian Pallaces And it is worth the obseruation that each Mosche or Turkish Church rising in the top with diuers Globes and they being couered with brasse or Copper they make a beautifull shew especially the Sunne shining and more especially because they are seated vpon hilles The Turkish Bashacs laugh at them who tell how beautifull and stately the Christians Pallaces are builton the out-side as if they onely respected the inward magnificence But Christians doe also desite this inward beauty some more some lesse And that the Turkes neglect outward beauty the desire of inward beauty is not the true reason thereof For as they place all religion in the shew and outward things so no doubt they would in this also greatly respect the outside were it not that they liue vnder such a tyrannical Gouernment which makes all the Empire full of desolation so as they doe not preserue the houses they conquered from Christians in their wonted magnificence much lesse themselues erect such stately building ' yea dare not haue any rich housholdstuffe at least to be vulgarly seene lest their riches should make them a prey to their Magistrates or souldiers finding nothing so safe vnto them as the sordide shew of pouertie And this is the cause that many of them hide and bury their treasure vnder the earth whereof the free vse would proue dangerous to them and as the Poet saith Quò mihi diuitiae Sinon conceditur vti What doe riches profit me Who to vse them am not free But the Turkes and especially the Christians subiect to them being borne and from infancy bred vnder the yoke of perpetuall slauery and hauing neuer tasted the sweetenesse of liberty doe beare with ease this burthen which we thinke vnsupportable In France the houses of Paris are of vnpolished great stones couered ouer with plaster and are built stately three or foure sometimes sixe roofes high with the highest roofe which hath windowes and they are couered with tiles The building of
and goe on foot or send a seruant to meate them But since the same Vetturines will also offer a passenger to agree with him in like fort for his owne diet surely as I haue said in the Chapter of the manner to take iournies the passenger is in ill case that is dieted by them neither would I aduise any so to doe except onely in the way from Rome to Naples and backe againe where a passenger in such a tumultuary iourney and by reason of that old custome should otherwise be worse entreated Lastly a passenger shall doe wisely especially at nighe to goe to the best Inne and of most fame that he may be more safe from the losse of his money or hazard of his life The Italians hold it a great shame to be drunken they sometimes salute one another with a cup in manner of a health but leaue it to his pleasure when he will pledge them and then he salutes him that drunke to him as well as him to whom he drinkes saying Faccie ragione a vos ' signoria brindisia vos Signoria Sir I pledge you and I drink to you Sir The word Brindisi comes of the Dutch phrase Ich brings each I will bring it to you vsed when they drinke to any man and this shewes the custome is borrowed from the Germans and vsed by the obsequious Italians to please them yet abhorring from drunkennesse so pleasing to the Germans Italy yeeldes excellent Wines and the common red wine is held very nourishing so as the fairest Weomen will diue with the same and a sop of bread dipped in it thinking it will make them fat which kind of Women the Venetians most loue all things else being equall yea and more faire So as they Prouerbially say Chibeue branco piscta bianco a chi beue rosso auanza il colore He that drinkes white pisses white he that drinkes red gaines the colour These are the most famous Wines of Italy 〈◊〉 di Christe the teare of Christ and like wines neere Cinqueterre in Liguria La 〈◊〉 and the white Muskadine especially that of Montefiaschoni in Toscany Cecubum and Falernum in the Kingdome of Naples and Prosecho in Histria In generall the grapes that grow high vpon Elme-trees in the plaine as in Lombardy especially the grapes of Modena yeeld very small Wines but those that grow vpon hils and mountaines resting on short stakes yeeld very rich Wines In the shops where they sell Muskadines there be continually boyes attending with little wigges of sweete bread and Iunkets which the Italians dip in the wine and hauing thus broke their fasts in winter time they commonly eate no more till supper The third Booke CHAP. I. Of the Geographicall description of Turkey the Situation Fertility Trafficke and Diet. THE Longitude of Turkey extends fifty fiue degrees and a halfe from the meridian of forty foure degrees and a halfe to that of an hundred degrees and the Latitude extends forty degrees from the Paralell of tenne degrees to that of fifty degrees The Prouinces of this Empire in Europe are thus numbered Illyris Albania Epirus Gracia Macedonia Thessalia Thracia Mysia Dacia or I ransiluania Hungaria and the Ilands vnder him that lie in Europe 1 Illyris a part of Sclauonia is subiect partlv to the Turkes partly to the House of Austria the chiefe Cities whereof are Zara which together with the territory thereof the Turkes tooke from the Venetians the rest of the Prouince being still subiect to the House of Austria and Scordona lying vpon the Sea as doth the former City and all the Prouince Also Croatia vulgarly Cranaten and of old called Liburnia belongs to this Prouince 2 Albania hath these knowne Cities Dirachium vulgarly Dorazzo of old called Epidaurus and Vallona 3 Epirus hath these Townes Chimera Meiandria Butrinto Cestrina and Nicopolis Of old part of Epirus was called Acarnania Of the roiall blood of this Prouince was Alexander Scanderbeg who brought vp in the Great Turkes Court and vpon occasion falling from him did so much trouble that vast Empire 4 Gracia was of old diuided into Peloponesus and Helles Peloponesus of old called Aiggealia Appta and Pelasgia is at this day named Morea and it is a Chersonelus that is a necke of Land almost an Iland onely ioined to the continent with an Isthmus that is a narrow peece of Land The rest is compassed with the Sea and was of old diuided into Sutionium which hath the Cities Sution and Carinthus Argo'is which hath the Cities Argos and Neapolis Achaia or Elis whereof the chiefe City was Elis and Arcadia whose chiefe Townes are Psofis and Arcomenus And here the Riuer Emaus or Erimanthus springeth and ioyning with the Brooke Alpheus fals into the gulfe of Arcadia Also the Riuer Inachus springs in the Mountaine Parthenius and fals into the gulfe of Neapolis Moreouer Peloponesus hath a fifth Prouince called Lacedemonta or Laconia whereof the chiefe City was Lacedemon or Sparta most famous of old The sixth Prouince is Messena in which is the City Metona now called Modon The straight necke of Land ioyning Peloponesus to the Continent was against the Turkes fortified with a wall by the Christians but the Turkes cast downe the wall and tooke all the Prouince Helles or Achaia the second Prouince of Greece containes Attica Megaris Boetia Phocis Regio Locrorum and AEtolis Attica is more famous then the rest in which was the famous City Athens Megaris is a small Region the chiefe City whereof was Megaria in which Euclides was borne Boetia is a very large Region so called of an Oxe leading Cadmus thither who built the Boetian Thebes so called for difference from nine other Cities called Thebes The Mountaines Thermopula deriued from the Mountaines Acroceraunij lying vpon Epirus deuide Greece from the West to the East as the Apenninediuides Italy and the famous mountaines Otris Pelion and Ossa are parts thereof Of old Aulis was a famous City of Boetia in which Iphigenia Daughter to Agamemnon was sacrificed Phocis is a small Region the townes whereof were Elatea and Delphis seated at the foot of the Mountaine Parnassus hauing the Temple of Apollo not in the Towne but vpon a Rocke of the Mountaine where springs the Castalian Fountaine sacred to the Muses and the Mount Helicon lies neere the same The Region of the Locri is small and the chiefe City is now called Lepanto Of old a people called Pieres comming out of Thrace dwelt vnder Farnassus of whem it was called the Pierian Mountaine and the Muses were called Pierides Doris pertaines to the Region of the Locri and the chiefe City is Doricum whence came the Doric Dialect The last Prouince of Helles and of all Greece is AEtolia deuided from Eptrus by the Riuer Achelons falling from the Mount Pindus and the chiefe Townes thereof are Naupactus now called Lepanto neere the gulfe whereof the Christian Nauy vnder the commaud of Don Iuan of Austria gaue a famous ouerthrow to the Turkish Nauy
of the Emporour as of vnder-Gouernours changed at least once a yeere and the generall rapacity and licentiousnesse of the souldiers Hence it is that there be vast solitudes and vntilled Desarts on all sides where yet the ground of it selfe brings forth diuers wild fruits without tillage They haue diuers kinds of graine Wheate the graine called Milet Barly Oates Rye Pease and al kinds of Pulse which for the kinds are like those of Europe but the Wheate for the bignesse of the graine and so the rest are to bee preferred before them There is great abundance of Rice Flax and Cotton growing in the fields They haue good plenty of all kinds of Cattell yet are no more industrious in grasing and feeding heards then in sowing or planting and so they haue Egges Hennes Rice Hony which in a composition they drinke Fruits and Bread for daily foode they desire no other dainties or greater riches since they can neither inioy their goods while they liue nor yet bequeath them at death and nothing is more dangerous then to be accounted rich The Caloiri or Greeke Monkes in Candia with whom I abode for a time shewed mee sields which the yeere past had yeelded them ninety fiue measures of graine for one sowed but Candia though it lie in the compasse of the Turkish Empire almost on all sides yet is subiect to the State of Venice The Iland Chios vulgarly Zio is subiest to the Turkes and is famous for the pleasantnesse as also for the fertilitie yeelding Mastick the fruit of the tree Lentiscus and hauing abundance of Patridges of all kinds of foule I haue in my Iornal of the first Part spoken of the most fertile Ilands Cyprus and Mettilene In Syria they haue sheepe of strange bignesse whereof many haue tailes weighing twenty and some thirty pounds bearing wooll and being wrethed to their heeles more then the hornes of Rammes are And let no man thinke this incredible since the same is reported of Sheepe in Affrick and this is confirmed by consent of all who haue been in these parts Mules are somewhat rare but they haue innumerable Camels a beast most apt to carry burthens and lying patiently downe to receiue them and most able to beare hunger and especially thirst When the male and female ingender they lye downe on their bellies with tayle to tayle and their heades many Eiles distant one from the other and in the time of the yeere when they are naturally prone to generation they are fierce with a kind of madnesse so as their masters then take heede of any violence they may doe them The Turkes also haue many Dromedaties a kinde of beast not vnlike the Cammell but farre passing horses in swiftnesse and very Cammels in patience of labour Their Horses are rather faire then strong and they make their skin shine by laying them vpon their owne dung dried These horses either runne which often they put them to for spurts and in brauery or goe a foote pace as they vse to follow laded Cammels in iournies but they are not taught either to trot or amble as ours are and are good for short iournics but not able to indure so long iournies as ours doe Therefore the Turkish Caualtery for warre is of more swiftnesse then strength and the Germane horses being heauy they easily ouertake them flying and as easily flye when they are beaten The Turkes haue great plenty of sea and fresh water fish and of birds and all foule and for Christian buyers whereof are great multitudes especially at Constantinople they furnish their markets therewith And in truth at Constantinople there is as great varietie and goodnesse of these kinds as can be wished Onely the Oystors though pleatifull yet haue not the delicate salt taste that ours haue the Mediterranean Sea being nothing so salt as the Ocean But in generall the Turkes by reason of the foresaid tyranny and of their temperance in diet doe little vse fishing or fowling or any like exercise Yea by reason of the same tyranny of the Emperour Gouernours and Souldiers the Turkes carelesly and coldly exercise trafficke with Merchants I grant that they trade in Natolia and other parts of their owne Empire after a cold manner but they make no voyage by sea into forraigne parts excepting some few that come to Venice For they doe not labour in any kind more then necessitie forceth and are so far from the insatiable desire of riches as they auoide nothing more then the opinion to bee rich So as the Iewes the Greekes subiect to the Turkes and other confederate Christians exporting their commodities they themselues haue very few ships the Emperour onely hauing some twelue great ships well armed to bring him necessaries from Egypt to Constantinople In like sort they haue few Marrines and those vnexperienced and fearefull vsing the Greekes their vassals and other slaues taken in warde to that purpose and they much esteeme that is gently treate captiues skilfull in Nauigation Some Townes keepe at their priuate charge a few small Gallies and Barkes to rob the Christians and the great Turkes Nauie consists all of Gallies nothing comparable to those of Venice and they winter at Constantinople and another Haurn in Greece whereof I shall write more largely in the discourse of the Turkes Common-wealth Among other Cities of trade they haue two very famous one in Asia the other in Affrick That of Asia is called Haleppo and it being within-land the Port thereof is called scanderona by the Turks and Alexandretta by the Christians whence the commodities of Merchants are carried vpon Cammels and the fifth day arriue at Haleppo whether the commodities of Persia are brought by the Riuer Euphrates and vpon Cammels backes from the Citie Taurus of old subiect to the Persians but in our age subdued by the Turkes The Indian commodities are brought thither by the red sea and the Gulfe of Arabia The famous Citie for trade in Affricke was called Babylon and now is named Alcatero whence the commodities of India Egypt and all Affricke are exported Moreouer vpon the mouth of the greatest arme of the Riuer Nilus the City Alexandria is seated vpon the Sea some few dayes saile from Aleaiero The Venetians bring into Turkey woollen clothes which they call broad being died Scarlet Violet and of all colours and they are so strong well made as they will last very long so as the Turks prefer them before out English clothes And because the Venetians furnish them in great quantity they vse few other clothes of that kind Also the Venetians bring to them Sattins and Damasks made in Italy of Dalmatian silk and great quantity of Gold and Siluer to buy the pretious commodittes of Turkey Whence they carry out raw silke For by reason of the foresaid tyranny as the Turkes are negligent in Husbandry and trade so are they in manuall Arts not drawing their Silke into threads nor weauing the same into clothes And howsoeuer they haue infinite
numbers of Silke-wormes especially at Tripoli and in most parts of Asia which make great quantitie of Silke as I formerly said in the discourse of Italy yet they sell this Silke raw and vnwonen and buy of the Venetians the foresaid clothes made of their owne silke so as the silkewormes may well be said to bee more diligent and more to promote the publike good then the inhabitants for they swarming in all Gardens diligentlie finish their web while the idle inhabitants yeeld the commoditie thereof to strangers The Venetians also export from Turkey Spices and Apothecary wares and great quantitie of the Dye called Indico They export Galles Cotten wooll Cotton threads Chamlets or Grograms made of the finest haires of Goates not sheared but pulled off from their backes and wouen in Galatia a Prouince of the lesser Asia They export Turkey Carpets Goates skinnes wrought and died into diuers colours The English bring to the Turkes Kersies wrought and dyed of diuers colours and kinds but they bring little Broad-cloth wherewith they are aboundantlie furnished from Venice They also bring to them Tinne and blacke Conni-skinnes in such quantitic as the Turkes admiring the same a Frenchman merily taxing our womens affabilitie said that in England there was such plenty of Connyes and they so tame as they were taken in the Tauerns The English export from them Spices and Apothecary wares for the Trade into the East Indies was not then set vp they also export the foresaid commodities raw silke Indico and other precious Dyes of Scarlet Purple and the like Galles Mastick growing onely in the Iland Zio Cotton and the thread thereof Turkey Carpets for tables Chamlets Grograms of Goates haire The Merchants comming to Constantinople hardly find there any commodities to export therefore the English ships hauing vnladed there saile empty to Alexandretta and there receiue the commodities of Haleppo Againe the Italians who bring much gold and siluer to Haleppo for the commodities there to bee sold doe againe receiue gold and siluer for such commodities as they bring to Constantinople and carry the same backe to Venice The English lying at the Ilands of Zant and Cephalonia subiect to the Venetians and at Petrasso seated in the Gulfe of Corinth and subiect to the great Turke export Corrands others from Algier a Port of Barbary export Sugar others from the Iland Candia subiect to the Venetians export Muskadines and others from diuers Ilands export earthen dishes and vessels painted which for the purenesse are much esteemed and vsed in Italy and in our parts Northward The swords of Damasco are famous for the mettall piercing iron and cutting a naile in pieces but the exportation of them is forbidden though out Christians supply the Turkes with all warlike munitions which they might shame to haue particularly named in this discourse of traffick The precious Orientall commodities of Persia and the East Indies haue made the Trade of Turkish Cities to bee famous namely their spices and rich dies and Iewels which notwithstanding the Turkes haue in part of their owne For I formerly said that Arabia yeelds Frankinsence Mirrh Cinnamon and Iewels and AEgypt yeeldes Balsam and Opobalsam the more precious gumme of the Balmetree in great quantity omitting many commodities which besides they haue of these kinds I speake not of Thessalonica a City of Macedonia now called Saloniche nor other Hauens and Cities of trafficke in Greece as being of lesse moment All the precious traffick of Turkey by reason of the inhabitants slothfulnesse is in the hands of lewes and of Christians and was long in the sole hands of the Venetians but the French in the age past and the English in our age haue had as I may say a traffickiug league with the Turkes and so partake that trade And these three States onely not to speake of the Germans who at this time had warre with the Turkes and neuer saile so farre to exercise trafficke among so many States of Christians haue their Ambassadours at the Turkish Court And if any other Christians arriue in that Empire as the Flemmings often doe they vsed at this time to come vnder the Banner of one of these three Nations The Reader must vnderstand that when I was in Turkey the English and Flemmings had not as yet begun their traffick in the East Indies which is like to destroy the trafficke in Turkey bringing many rich commodities from the well head For their dyet the Turkes liue sparingly I had said slouenly but that I remembred their frequent bathings and washings and the curious clenlinesse of the linnen and all other clothes which they weare but I will bee bold to say they feede negligently and without any pompe or magnificence The richer sort doe fit at meate like Tailors with their knees bended vpon carpets or vpon the grasse when they eate by Riuers sides and in Gardens as they doe more frequently then in the house And their table is so low as they may well reach to it sitting vpon the ground About this table they cast a long towell to wipe their hands but passengers by the high-way and generally the ordinary sort of Turkes vse grasse in stead of this towell Others carry about a table of leather coloured red or yellow which table shuts and opens like a purse and vpon it they can set but one dish at once it hanging hollow vpon certaine buckels Commonly they eate by the high-way vpon the ground and alwaies with their knees bended like our Taylors They seeth their meat till it be very tender so as they may breake it with theit fingers for they haue no kniues neither haue they variety of dishes set before them but all sitting in a circle fall vpon one dish Taking meat they all together say a short prayer or grace and talke not whilest they eate but silently fall hard to their worke They haue aboundance of all things for foode aswell of flesh excepting swines-flesh as of birds and other meates but they abstaine from fish They haue plenty of Corne at least sufficient for their temperate dyet which is exceeding good and farre bigger then ours They are ignorant of the Arts of birding fouling hunting or cookery and hauing no lasciuicus apetite prouoking them to gluttony are content with simple meates Their sobrietie in this kind cannot sufficiently be commended and since their greatest men can bee content to feede on rice and drinke water it is no maruell that with ease they keepe great Armies in the field All the Turkish housholdstuffe is contained in one poore pot to seeth meate in one spoone of wood one cup of leather or wood to drinke in a poore bed or matresse yea often a single couerled alone and the earth serues them for bedsteed table and stooles They haue no neede of a troope of cookes and scullions to dresse meate and make cleane dishes They willingly eate curds turned sower and mingled with bread and water commonly called Mishmish and fresh cheese or curds
among Christians and if he doe yet the sheetes are made of cotten intollerable for heate For in Turkey generally they lie vpon Tapestry Carpets and sometimes in Cities vpon a mattresse with a quilt to couer them and by the high way they lye vpon straw hey or grasse And in all places neere Palestine they either by night lie vpon the house tops on a plastered floare or in yards vpon the earth and in open Ayre hauing the spangled Heauens for their Canopy And not onely passengers but all Turkes daily weare linnen breeches so as in these Prouinces not subiect to cold a man may better endure this poore kind of lodging But the Turkish passengers in stead of Innes haue certsine Hospitals built of stone with Cloysters after the manner of Monasteries where by charitable legacy of Almes all passengers may haue meate for certaine meales or dayes especially the Pilgrims towards Mecha for whose sake they were especially founded And these houses are vulgarly called Kawne or as others pronounce Cain and the couered Cloysters of them built after their manner but one roofe high are common as well to Turkes as any other passengers to lodge in openly and like good fellowes altogether vpon such mattresses as they carry or vpon the bare ground if straw be not to be had For Christian passengers carry such mattresses and necessary victuals which failing they supply them in Cities and euery day in Villages may buy fresh meates but they must dresse their owne meate Neither is the Art of Cookery greater in Turkey then with vs in Wales for toasting of Cheese in Wales and seething of Rice in Turkey will enable a man freely to professe the Art of Cookery No stranger vseth to trauell without a Ianizary or some other to guide him who knowes the places where most commodious lodging is to be had but passengers by the way vse not to goe into Cities but onely to buy fresh meates which done they returne to the Tents of their Carrauan which vse to be pitched in some field adioyning In hot climes neere the Sunne as I haue said in the first Part writing my iourney through Turkey the Turkes there dwelling vse to beginne their iourneys towards the euening and to end them two or three houres after the Sunne rising resting in their Tents all the heat of the day Christian passengers shall doe well to goe to the Italians Friers at Ierusalem and to Merchants their Countreymen or at least to Christians in Citties of traffick and to the Ambassadors or Merchants of their owne Country at Constantinople who being themselues strangers and not ignorant of the euils incident to strangers will no doubt in curtesie direct them to get conuenient lodgings and other necessaries CHAP. II. Of France touching the particular subiects of the first Chapter THE Longitude of France extends thirteene degrees from the Meridian of sixteene degrees to that of twenty nine degrees and the Latitude extends eight degrees from the Paralell of forty two degrees to that of fifty degrees France of old was deuided into Cisalpina and Transalpina In the description of Italy I haue formerly spoken of Cisalpina which was also called Togata of Gownes the Inhabitants wore and Tonsa because they had short haire 1 Transalpina was subdeuided into Comata and Narbonersis Comata so called of their long haire was againe subdeuided into Belgica of which I haue spoken formerly in the description of Netherland into Aquitanica and Celtica or Lugdunensis Aquitanica the second Part of Comata was of old called Aremorica lying vpon the Mountaines Pyrenei and they differ in Language from the French being more like to tie Spaniards next to the Pyreni dwelt the Ansi or Ansitani called vulgarly Guascons comming from Spaine Their chief City is Tolouse where is a famous Vniuersity the Parliament of that Prouince Another City called Bordeaux hath also an Vniuersity but is more famous by the generall concourse of Merchants trading for French Wines Beyond the Riuer Garumna running through the midst of Aquitania dwell the Santones an ancient people whose Countrey is called Santoigne Next lie the Pictones or Pictaui vpon the Riuer Loyer whose Countrey is called Posctou abounding with Fish Fowle and all Game for Hunting and Hawking It hath three chiefe Cities all seates of Bishops Poictiers Lusson and Maillezais The necke of Land adioyning is called Aulone and the Ilands Noir de Chauet De Dieu and Nosire Dame De Bouin c. yeeld great quantity of Salt to be transported The Countrey of the Bituriger is called Berry and the chiefe City Burges of old called Auaricum being an Vniuersity and the Citizens at sixe Faires in the yeere sell great quantity of woollen cloath for the Countrey hath rich pastures feeding many flockes of sheepe of whose wooll this cloath is made besides that it aboundeth also with Wine Corne and all kinds of cattell The City is within Land and is called in Lattin Biturigum of two Towers Next the same lies the Dukedome Burbonois and other small territories Celtica or Lugdunensis another part of Comata containes the part of Transalpina that lies betweene the Riuers Loyer and Seyne beyond which last Riuer France of old extended and included good part of Netherland First towards the West lies the Dukedome Bretaigne which hath three Languages in it selfe all differing from the French The first is of the people called Bretons Bretonnant comming from the English or Cornish Brittons the first Inhabitants and the chiefe Cities are Saint Paul and Treguiers The second people are called Bretons Galot being of Language neere the French and the chiefe Cities are Rhenes where is the Parliament of the whole Dukedome and Dol and Saint Malo The third is mixt of the two former and the City thereof called Nantes is the Dukes seate and chiefe City of the Dukedome From the Sea Coast thereof great quantity of salt made by the heate of the Sunne is transported and there by mynes of Iron and Lead Towards the East lies Normandy so called of Men of the North namely the Cimbri there inhabiting and the chiefe City is Roane Within Land lies Turroyne vpon the Loyer and the chiefe City is Orleance Next lies the little Countrey of France like an Iland betweene two Riuers so called of the Franckes a people of Germany conquering and giuing that name to the whole Kingdome The chiefe City and seate of the Kings is Paris Picardy lies towards the North and the chiefe City is Amiens Vpon France within Land towards the East lies the Prouince Champaigne Next to it lies the Dukedome of Lorrayne the Dukes whereof beare their Armes an Arme armed breaking out of Cloudes and holding a naked Sword to signifie that the Dukes haue supreme power from God alone And the chiefe Cities of the Dukedome are Nancy the seate of the Dukes and Toul and Neufchastell The next Countrey of old esteemed part of Lorrayne was inhabited by the Lingones and by the Mediomatrices and
and light stuffe The Ianizares weare the said Tulbent but haue also a cap peculiar to their Order vulgarly called Zarcola which they weare going abroad into the City being a standing cap plaine at the top with an hood hanging down behind like that part of our French hoods with a guilded horne of brasse vpright aboue the forehead The Ianizares that are Courtiers weare a Feather hanging downe from the hinder part of the head to the very heeles The Chausses and all degrees vpward to the very Emperour weare the said Tulbent or Cap with a little piece of red veluet appearing at the very crowne vpon which they set Iewels and Feathers whereby these higher orders and degrees in the warre are distinguished Like white Tulbents but altogether plaine are worne by inferiour Turkes that are not Souldiers and they cannot bee more prouoked then by casting any spot vpon their white heads which they weare as an holy badge of their Religion placing the purity of the foule for a great part in the outward purity of the body Tulbent and garments All these Tulbents be of pure white but the Greekes and other Christians aswell subiects as strangers weare Shasses that is striped linnen commonly white and blew wound about the skirts of a little cap. Such a Shasse my selfe did weare costing fifteene Mcidines The Persians weare such Tulbents for the forme but the cloth is of greene colour And the Turkes as I thinke called Seriffi and by others called Hemir namely the Kindred or race of Mahomet who make great shew of hereditary holinesse and are of singular reputation doe not onely weare greene Tulbents but all garments of the same colour yet some of them weare garments of other colours with a greene marke to be knowne from others They say that Mahomet vsed to weare greene garments whereupon in superstition they onely permit this colour to his race and if any chance to weare a shoo-string or garters of that colour by ignorance of this rite they will flie vpon him and beate him with cudgels and if hee still weare them will punish him more seuerely My self ignorant of this rite passed most part of Turkey with my dublet lined with greene taffety but sleeping by nights in my dublet and hiding the silke lest they should thinke me rich by great chance this error of mine was neuer detected till I came to Constantinople where our Ambassadour obseruing it and telling mee the great cruelty they vse towards such as weare any greene thing did much astonish me yet did I still weare the same being safe in the priuiledge of the Ambassadours house till I went into a Venetian ship to sayle into Italy Besides these hypocrites of Mahomets race for that cause so much respected as the witnesse of one of them auailes more then of ten common Turkes they haue other orders of religious men whereof the chiefe and as it were Metropolitan Bishop is called Mophty whom the Emperour highly respects and takes counsell of him when he goes to warre Also the Cady is a chiefe Iudge of Ecclesiasticall causes And all these weare silke gownes of skie coloured blew which colour is esteemed next greene and proper to some such orders And these religious men weare their gownes long to the ground with close sleeues and their tulbents are larger but flatter then other Turkes weare Neither men nor women of the Turkes weare any necke bands or collars but their gownes are cut close to the lowest part of the necke and there made fast so as all the necke is naked And the gownes of men and women little differ saue that the men haue them large the women close at the brest They hate the blacke colour as infernall and much vsed by Christians In general the men weare a long coate to the knee and vpon it a long gowne with gathered sleeues hanging to the calfe of the legge and buttoned at the brest and a third longer gowne hanging behind to the ground with sleeues close to the arme They weare a girdle of silke or linnen twice or thrice about the waste or of fine leather with plates of gold and siluer Their breeches and stockings are of one peece of Kersey like Irish Trouses but larger the stockings hanging loose without any garters They weare their shirts hanging ouer their breeches vnder which they haue linnen breeches which they weare also by night in stead of sheetes And they pull out their shirts by day lest they should be spotted by their priuy parts making it a point of religion to keepe their garments cleane Lastly they weare red and yellow shooes of most thinne leather pointed sharpe at the toes and two fingers high at the heele with peeces of iron vnder the soles or else leather buskins and both these they put off within dores sitting vpon the ground spread with Carpets crossing their naked feete like our Taylors Their vpper gowne and breeches are commonly of English or Venetian cloth and many times of satten or damaske or some light stuffe And their coates are loose and commonly lined with blacke Conie skinnes brought out of England and much esteemed by them as being soft and coole and keeping out the Sunne in a loose garment and also warme in a close garment Thus they weare the finest cloth silkes and stuffes but not one is found so prodigall or ridiculous as to weare any lace and much lesse to cut any stuffe all wearing them plaine and laughing at our contrary fashions They haue no glooues and I remember that my selfe in Syria being poorely attired yet was taken for a great man onely for wearing gloues They weare very large hand-kerchers and wrought all ouer with silke of light colours which they hang by their sides about the girdle They vse linnen cloth or cotton cloth very thinne and fine but of browne colour for thinnesse not vnlike our boulting cloths but most pure and cleane in which they are curious for al things worne about the body The chief pride of the Turks is in hauing the pummels of their Cemeters or short and broad Swords set with Iewels which are many times counterfet and commonly of small value and likewise in hauing good Horses with bridles and saddles rich and set with like Iewels I neuer obserued any Turkes to weare gold Rings or Iewels on their fingers excepting onely some Souldiers in Syria whom I haue seene weare great rings of white bone vpon their thumbs But the great men highly esteeme Christian Iewellers not to weare the Iewels but rather to haue their treasure portable and easie to be hidden The Turkes weare no Swords in the Cities but onely in the Campe or in Iournies For Ianizaries and other Souldiers haue such authority without armes as no man dares resist them so as carrying onely a long and heauy cudgell in their hands one of them will therewith beat multitudes of Turkes like so many dogs yet the Ianizaries in Syria weare at their girdles short and heauy Kniues like daggers The
Cities subiect to them least they should thereby be prouoked to make leagues with the free Cities and so make themselues free And this cause alone makes the Princes lesse able to giue strong helpes to the Emperour if they were willing to doe it Againe the free Cities feare the ambition of the neighbouring Princes For as most of the Cities of old subiect to the Emperour or to particular Princes got their freedome in ciuill warres by assisting one of the parties or else by priuiledges granted by fauour or bought for money or else by open force of armes so they thinke it likely that the Princes vpon the change of the state of things will omit no fit occasion to bring them againe into subiection And the said Princes doe not onely feare the said free Cities for combyning with their Subiects but haue also mutuall iealousies among themselues as well for inheritance as for the difference of Religion Lastly all and each of these states feare the power of the Emperour least hee should breake the absolute power they haue in their owne territories or least hee should by force of armes make them more obedient to himselfe or least hee should oppresse them in the cause of Religion either of his owne motion or by the instigation of the Pope Hence it is that hee who dares not make warre vpon the Emperour yet dares denie to helpe him and he that dares not deny helpe yet dares either fayle in performance or by delayes make it vnprofitable Besides that by nature the decrees and counsels of many heads are carried with lesse secrecy and are seldome executed with conuenient speed and that for which many care each one neglects as Piato faith disputing against community Also the Emperours power is many other wayes weakened First that the Germans in the very warre against the Turkes slowly grant or plainely refuse any contributions or subsidies and would little reioyce that the Emperour should haue a great victory against the Turkes partly least hee should turne his Forces vpon the absolute Princes or Cities of Germany partly least the Emperour then being as they openly professed should spend the money contributed in his priuate lusts not in the publike affayres and lastly because the charge of the Warre should be common but the profit of the Conquest should onely be to the aduancement of the House of Austria For which causes the Princes and Cities vsed to denie contributions of money towards the Turkish warres and rather chose to send and maintaine bands of Souldiers in Hungary vnder their owne pay for a set time And these bands were so commonly sent without order or mutuall consent and so slowly as when some of the bands came to the Army other bands hauing serued out the appointed time desired leaue to returne home Thus they seldome met together to attempt any braue enterprise while part of the forces was expected the occasions of good aduentures were lost Secondly the Emperour is more weake because the meetings of Parliaments which they call Dytetaes require the expectance of some moneths besides the delayes of Counsels after the meeting and the contrariecy of opinions which must needes be great in mindes so ill vnited Thirdly because the Germans vnwisely thinke that the tyranny of the Turkes hanging ouer them yet is a lesse and more remoued euill then the iealousie of their priuate estates and feare to be oppressed in the cause of Religion Lastly because the Germans thinke it not equall to be at publike charge to recouer the priuate Cities of the House of Austria from the Turkes These things make the great power of Germany so weake that as the whole body pined away while the hands denied meate to the belly so not onely the Empire to the generall shame of Christians drawes the last breath vnder the Turkish tyranny while the disagreeing and sluggish Christian Princes denie helpe in this case to the House of Austria and oppose the weaker branch of that House to the most powerfull force of the Turkes but also it may iustly be feared lest other Kingdomes and the very name of Christians should be vtterly consumed in this fier daily creeping and increasing vpon vs which God in his mercy forbid Next to the said vassals to the Emperour a King a Palatine a Duke a Marquesse and three Archbishops the seuen Electors of old were instituted foure Dukes of the Empire namely the Dukes of Bauaria of Brunswicke of Sueuia and of Lorayne and foure Langraues and of each degree foure whereof some are at this day extinguished and many other haue since beene created by diuers Emperours In like sort of old were instituted foure Metropolitan Cities of the Empire namely Augsburg called of the Vandals for difference Aquisgranum vulgarly Ach Mentz and Lubecke Bishops sprirituall Princes were of old twenty seuen in number whereof some haue secular Dominions onely by habite distinguished from secular Princes but the Churchmen knowing no meane not content with tithes but scarce leauing that portion to the Laymen haue caused Princes first to make Lawes against inordinate guists to the Church and then by other vanities prouoked them to reforme this aboundance of their riches the impurity of their liues and the falshoods of their Doctrines so as at this day many Bishoprickes are in the hands of secular Princes within their owne Dominions vnder the title of Administrators In this sort to passe ouer the rest the eldest sonne of the Marquesse of Brandeburg was in his Fathers life time called the Administrator of Halla Not onely the Emperour but also many Princes of Germany as well secular as spirituall haue Kingly power in their owne Dominions and these absolute Princes are so many in number as a passenger in each dayes iourney shall obserue one or two changes of Prince Money and Religion Furthermore in free Cities here the Patritian Order there the common people and other where both with mixed power gouerne the City in such absolute freedome as most of the Cities haue regall rights of making peace or warre of coyning Monies and of like priuiledges But the Plebeans among them proue they neuer so rich cannot haue any higher degree and their gouernements are with such equity equality and moderation as no degree is subiect one to the other but all equally to the Law Of these Princes secular and spirituall and of the Deputies for free Cities meeting in Parliaments which they cal Ditetaes is the true Image of the Empire where they deliberate of great affaires and impose contributions from which onely the King of Bohemia is free by priuiledge granted from Charles the fourth Emperour and King of Bohemia as I haue formerly said The forme of the Commonwealth in the Empire is Aristocraticall ouer which the Emperour should bee as head appointing the meetings with the consent of the Princes and causing the Decrees to be put in execution But at this day the name of the Emperour is become a
meere title and his authoritie hath no sinews so as he can neither call them if they thinke not good to come nor decree any thing if they be vnwilling nor compell those that are refractory And the very Princes are not constant to their owne iudgement if you respect the iminent dangers from the Turks nor actiue in their owne motions concerning the publike cause but are diuersly distracted betweene feare to increase the suspected power of the Emperour by helping him or to stirre vp Ciuill warres to the ruine of the dis-vnited State by making open opposition to his authority In the meane time nothing is more frequent with them then boldly to refuse either appearance in the Emperours Court or obedience to any other of his commandements that are vnpleasing to them And giue me leaue to say that my selfe there obserued that a great Prince of Germany for good respect namelesse to whom the Emperour had ingaged certaine Cities for money borrowed of him when the Emperour lending the money by Ambassadors desired restitution of the townes not onely refused to restore the same but could not bee induced to appeare at Prage by his Substitute to compound this difference and it seemed more strange to mee that diuers other Ambassadours comming to the City the same time had all audience before those from the Emperour who staid long before they were admitted to speak with the said Prince The declining generositie of the Princes of Austria and the fearefull danger hanging ouer them from the Turkes nourish this confidence in the Princes of Germany and indeede the Turkish warre doth so imploy or rather bind the hands of the Princes of Austria as were they neuer so valiant yet they should be forced rather to suffer any thing from these Christian Princes then by opposing them to be deuoured by Infidels Neither can the priuate calamity of Germany and the publike misery of all Christians in this point be sufficiently bewailed I say the priuate calamitic of Germany because the members being most strong if they were vnited yet are without sinews thus disioyned and haue no common force though in each part they be strong I say the publike calamity of Christians because howsoeuer the priuate Princes of Germany be of great power yet the whole body of the Empire being weake the daily victories of the Turkes threaten destruction not onely to Germany but to the name of Christians The Dukes of Florence of Sauoy and of Mantua and all the Princes of Italy whom the Pope hath not drawne to be his vassals the Dukes of Lorayne of Burgundy with diuers Dukes and Earles of Netherland after a sort acknowledge the safe and farre remoued patronage of the Emperour but they neither come to the Parlaments about the affaires of the Empire as not pertaining to them nor contribute any money to vphold the dignitie thereof except perhaps sometimes in the common cause of the Turkish warre they lend the Emperour some mony which no doubt all other Christian Princes would no lesse doe who haue no bond of subiection The King of Denmark by a double bond of his Kingdome and of the Dukedome of Holst the King of Swetia the Cantons of the Sweitzers and the Grisons inhabiting the Snowy Alpes were of old members of the Empire but in time these Feathers pluckt from the Eagle haue growne into new bodies and at this day do not at all acknowledge the Emperour In Germany the Tolles and Taxes are frequent as the number of absolute Princes is great who impose them in their seuerall Territories vpon all passengers and kinds of Merchandize or very small packs Schollers of Vniuersities onely excepted who passe free for their persons and goods But aboue all other Princes the Elector of Saxony as shall bee shewed in his due place seemes best to haue learned the art of shearing his subiects so as he not onely imitates but is equall in this point to the Princes of Italy Boterus relates that the Emperour of his owne hereditary dominions hath the yeerely rent of two thousand fiue hundred thousand Crownes and besides exacts fiue hundred thousand Crownes ordinarily and as much more by extraordinary means Men of good credit haue affirmed to me that the Prouince of Silesia alone subiect to the Emperor as King of Bohemia yeelds him each quarter of the yeare 60000 gold Guldens or Crownes by which may bee coniectured what hee receiues of his other large Dominions Yet Silesia yeelds more then any one of the rest in respect that of the twelue Dukedoms therein contained eight are fallen to the Emperour for want of heires-maies The Bishop of Silesia is called the Golden Bishop and the same Prouince hath thirty Abbies being most rich in that and all other respects At Prage subiect to the Emperour as King of Bohemia I obserued that euery house paid him yeerely three Dollers but this burthen equally imposed on thatched houses and stately Pallaces seeming vnequally shared the Citizens agreed among themselues of a more equall diuision thereof so as I remember that my Hosts house purchased for three hundred Dollers paid yeerely to the Emperor nine Dollers besides other charges of maintaining poore Scholers of Watches and the like imposed vpon each Master of a Family in each seuerall parish for which he also paid two Dollers yeerely In the Dominions of the Emperour the Brewers of Beere for each brewing paid six dollers to the Emperour which tribute in one City of Prage was said to passe fiue hundred Dollers weekely Also the Emperour exacted of his subiects for each Tun of Wine drawne a Doller and tenne Grosh for each bushell of Corne bought in the Market not the priuate Corne of their owne spent in their houses one siluer Grosh These and like tributes were at first granted for certaine yeares by consent of the three Estates but Princes know well to impose exactions and know not how to depose them The Emperour giues a City to the Iewes for their dwelling at Prage who are admitted in no City of Germany excepting onely at Franckfort where they haue assigned to them a Streete for their dwelling of which Iewes vpon all occasions hee borrowes money and many waies sheares those bloud-suckers of Christians The Germans impose great taxes vpon all forraigne commodities brought into their Hauens and not onely vpon mens persons and vpon commodities laded on beasts to bee distracted from City to City but euen vpon small burthens to be carried on a mans shoulder as they passe through their Forts or Cities which they vse to build vpon their confines to that purpose and onely Scholers of Vniuersities are free from these frequent exactions for their bodies and goods Touching the reuenews of the Empire it selfe Boterus relates that it receiues yeerely seuen thousand thousand Crownes or gold Guldens and this reuenew is of small moment for such great affaires if hee containe all the Princes of Germany vnder this taxation since otherwise a communication of treasure cannot bee expected