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A68944 The trauels of certaine Englishmen into Africa, Asia, Troy, Bythinia, Thracia, and to the Blacke Sea And into Syria, Cilicia, Pisidia, Mesopotamia, Damascus, Canaan, Galile, Samaria, Iudea, Palestina, Ierusalem, Iericho, and to the Red Sea: and to sundry other places. Begunne in the yeare of iubile 1600. and by some of them finished in this yeere 1608. The others not yet returned. Very profitable to the help of trauellers, and no lesse delightfull to all persons who take pleasure to heare of the manners, gouernement, religion, and customes of forraine and heathen countries. Biddulph, William.; Lavender, Theophilus. 1609 (1609) STC 3051; ESTC S101961 116,132 170

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is concerning praier wherein is required 4. That euery man fiue times a day repaire to their Churches to make publike praier vnto Mahomet The Turkes haue no bels but very faire Churches and high Steeples and at the houres of their publike praier they are called to Church by the voice of Criers who goe vp into their stéeples and cry with a loud voice Come now and worship the great God And sometimes also thus La Illa Eillala Mahomet Resullala that is God is a great God and Mahomet is his Prophet And sometimes no more but thus Ollah hethbar that is God is alone that is There is but one God And oftentimes there is but one Crier in one stéeple But on their Sabboth day which is friday and at sundry other times there are many men crying and bauling in euery stéeple like a kennell of hounds when they haue started their game The first méeting at publike praier euery day is before the rising of the sunne The second is about noone or midday and on their Sabboth day two houres sooner and againe at noone so that they pray fiue times euery day and on their Sabboth day six times The third time for publike praier euery day is at the tenth houre of the day called by the Turkes Kindi by the Moores Assera about thrée or foure of the clocke after noone The fourth méeting is about sunne setting The fifth and last houre of praier is two houres within night before they goe to sléepe Before they come to praier they prepare themselues thereunto by outward washings of themselues in token of reuerence and suffer no women to come to their Churches lest the sight of them should with-draw their mindes from praier And though they doe not come to Church yet when they heare the voice of the Criers they will pray wheresoeuer they be and fall downe and kisse the ground thrée times Oftentimes also these Criers walke about the stéeples in the euenings and sing after their rude manner Dauids Psalmes in the Arabicke tongue And when rich men heare them sing well and with cléere voices they are so delighted therewith that they vse to send them money Their fifth Commandement is concerning fasting viz. 5. That one Moone in the yeere euery one of any reasonable age spend the whole time in fasting They haue but one Lent in the yéere and then they fast generally in this manner When the new moone changeth which they call Romadan then during all that moone they fast all the day long betwixt sunne rising and sunne setting and neither eat nor drinke any thing at all But when the sunne setteth then the crier calleth them to Church and after they haue praied then they may eat what kinde of meat they will sauing swines flesh which is forbidden by their Law and as oft as they will vntill sunne rising so that their Lent is but a changing of day into night During this moone Romadan they obserue this kinde of abstinence very strictly And so soone as the next moone changeth which they call Byram then their Lent endeth and they hold a feast for thrée daies space together At which time they say Mahomet deliuered vnto them their law Their sixth Commandement is concerning Almesdéeds 6. Let euery man out of his store giue vnto the poore liberally freely and voluntarily Their Almes is either publike or priuate Their publike Almes is a sacrifice or offering of some beast for a sacrifice vnto Mahomet once euery yéere which being killed it is cut into small péeces and giuen all to the poore Their priuate Almes notwithstanding their Law is much neglected for I haue heard of many poore people who haue died amongst them for want of reléefe and in the way as I haue trauelled I haue found some dead for hunger and cold And though a man be neuer so poore yet if he be not able to pay his Head money to the King yéerely they are beaten and their women and children sold to pay it I● our murmuring and impatient poore were héere but a short time they would learne to bee more thankfull to God and man and how to estéeme of a benefit bestowed on them and not curse and reuile as many of them doe if any one that passeth by them doe not giue vnto them The Turkes are more mercifull to birds cats and dogs than to the poore Their seuenth Commandement is concerning Marriage 7. That euery man must of necessitie marry to encrease and multiply the Sect and Religion of Mahomet Their custome is to buy their wiues of their parents and neuer to sée them vntil they come to be married and their marriage is nothing but enrolling in the Cadies booke And it is lawfull for them to take as many wiues as they will or as many as they are able to kéepe And whensoeuer he disliketh any one of them it is their vse to sell them or giue them to any of their men-slaues And although they loue their women neuer so well yet they neuer sit at table with men no not with their husbands but wait at table and serue him and when he hath dined they dine in secret by themselues admitting no man or mankinde amongst them if he be aboue twelue yéeres of age And they neuer goe abroad without leaue of their husbands which is very seldome except it be either to the Bannio or hot Bath or once a wéeke to wéepe at the graues of the dead which is vsually on Thursday being the Ene before their Sabboth which is Friday and the Iewes Sabboth on Saturday and the Christians on Sunday thrée Sabboth daies together in one Country If their husbands haue béene abroad at his entrance into the house if any one of their women be sitting on a stoole she riseth vp and boweth herselfe to her husband and kisseth his hand and setteth the same stoole for him whereon they sate and stand so long as he is in presence If the like order were in England women would be more dutifull and faithfull to their husbands than many of them are and especially if there were the like punishment for whores there would be lesse whoredome for there if a man haue an hundred women if any one of them prostitute herselfe to any man but her owne husband he hath authoritie to binde her hands and feet and cast her into the riuer with a stone about her necke and drowne her And this is a common punishment amongst them but it is vsually done in the night And the man if he be taken is dismembred But the daughters and sisters of the great Turke are more frée than all other men and women For when their brethren die they liue and when they come to yéeres of marriage their father if he be liuing or brother if he be King will giue vnto them for their husbands the greatest Bashawes or Viziers whom they shall affect and say vnto them Daughter or sister I giue thée this man to be thy slaue and bedfellow and
owne prouision which wee brought with vs wee had also other good things for money Marrah is distant from Saracoope 24. miles March 12. was a very rainy day yet we trauelled all the forenoone vntill wee came to a village called Lacmine which a farre off made shew of a very faire village but when we came thither we found it so ruinous that there was not one house able to shroude vs from the extremitie of the shower the inhabitants thereof hauing forsaken it and fled into the mountaines to dwell for feare of the Ienesaries of Damascus who trauelling that way vsed to take from them not onely victuals for themselues and prouender for their horses without money but whatsoeuer things els they found in their houses Onely there was a little Church or Chappel there in good preparation whereinto for a little money we obtained leaue to enter our selues with our horses and carriage and there we brought out our victuals and refreshed our selues and baited our horses and rested vntill it left raining After the shower while our horses were preparing we walked into the fields néere vnto the Church and saw many poore people gathering Mallas and thrée leafed grasse and asked them what they did with it and they answered that it was all their foode and that they boiled it and did eate it then we tooke pitie on them gaue them bread which they receiued very ioyfully and blessed God that there was bread in the world and said they had not séene any bread the space of many moneths We also gaue vnto them small pieces of siluer to relieue their necessitie which they receiued gratefully and wished that their Countrie were in the hands of Christians againe The shower ceasing we rode from this Chappell and village of Lacke money I should haue said Lacmin but might say lacke men and money too and rode forward vntill we came vnto a village or towne called Tyaba where because it was neere night we desired to lodge but could not be admitted into any house for any money whereupon our chiefe Ienesarie Byram B●shaw went into an house and offred to pull man woman and childe out of the house that we might bring in our horses and lodge there our selues But when we saw what pitifull lamentation they made we intreated our Ienesarie either to perswade them for money or to let them alone And vnderstanding that there w●s a faire City in our way ten miles off we fiue with our Ienesarie being well horsed rode thither and left our carriage with the rest of our company at Tyaba to come to vs betimes in the morning This City is now commonly called Aman but of old it was called H●mat● 2. King 17. Heere we lodged in a faire Cane but on the cold ground and vpon the hard stones and thought our selues well prouided for that we had an house ouer our heads to keepe vs day Héere we met with victuals for money and prouender for our horses On the morrow the rest of our company came vnto vs from Tyaba and one of our horses being lame we staied there all that day to buy another and met there that day another swaggering Ienesarie of Damascus of our old acquaintance at Aleppo called Mahomet Bashaw who came from Ierusalem with Italian Merchants whom he had guarded thither These gaue vs good directions for our voyage and told vs what dangers they had escaped Hamath is from Marrah about fiue and thirty miles On the fourteenth of March we trauelled from Hamath a pleasant way and a short daies iourney to a fine towne called vulgarly Hems● but formerly Hus distant from Hamath but twenty miles This is said to haue béene the City where Iob dwelt and is to this day called by the Christians 〈◊〉 biting in those borders Iobs City And there is a fruitfull valley neere vnto it called the v●lley of H●s and a C●stle not f●rre off in the way to ●●●poly called Hu● Castle to this day But I make some doubt whether Iob were euer at this place for Iob is said to haue dwelt amongst the Edomites or wicked Idumaeans and Idumae● bordered vpon Arabia Foelix and not néere Syria where this City called Hus standeth whence the Sabaeans came which with violence tooke away Jobs Oxen and Asses And Iob is said to come of the posteritie of Esay And some thinke him to haue béene the sonne of Abram by Ketura Yet might this City now called Hemse or Hus be the Land of one called by name Hus for I doe finde in the Genealogies of the holy Scripture thrée men of that name Hus One was Arams sonne nephew to Noah Gen. 10. 23. A second was Nachors Abrams brothers sonne by Milchah Gen. 22. 21. The third was of the posterity and kindred of Esau as appeareth in his Genealogie Gen. 3● 28. Whence some gather that Iob was an Idumaean of the posterity of Esau But others affirme him to haue béene the sonne of Abram by Ketura And not vnlikely that some one of these thrée might haue dwelt at this place in Syria called Hus which by corruption of time was called Hemse On the fiftéenth day of March we went from Hus towards Damascus which is foure daies iourney off and all the way vntill we came within ten miles of Damascus is a desart vninhabited and a théeuish way onely there are erected in the way certaine Canes to lodge in But if they bring not prouision with them both for man and horse and some quilt or pillow to sléepe on the hard stones must be their bed and the aire their supper for some of their Canes are nothing but stone wals to kéepe out théeues In Cities they haue very stately Canes but not for Trauellers but for themselues to dwell in for euerie rich man calleth his house a Cane But the Canes that stand in high waies are in charity erected by great men for the protection of Trauellers but most of them are very badly kept and are worse than stables Our first daies iourney from Hus was a very vncomfortable and dangerous desart we saw no house all the way vntill we came vnto a village called Hassia where we lodged in an old Castle distant from Hus 22. miles March 16. From Hassia we rode to an ancient Christian Towne called Charrah where our prouision being spent wée made supply thereof and bought bread and wine of the Christians there dwelling It is inhabited by Greekes and Turkes but gouerned by Turks only There is but one Church in the Towne which is dedicated to S. Nicolas by the Christians who first builded it But both Christians and Turkes pray therein the Christians on the one side or I le of the Church and the Turkes on the other But the Christians are ouer ruled by the Turkes and constrained to finde them oile to their lamps in the Church For the Turkes not only burne lamps in their Churches euery night but during the whole time of their Lent they
which were first to depart from Rome and giue place to the Popes because both Emperours and Popes could not raigne together in one Citie And that hinderance was taken away long since when Constantine the great translated his imperiall Seat to Constantinople and indowed the Popes with the Citie of Rome and a great part of Italy lying about it The Emperours then being farre off and by reason of continuall warres with Saracens and enemies in the East notable to maintaine their own right in the West the Popes incroached vpon them too far and vsurped so much authoritie that they discarded them cleane in Italy and at their pleasure set vp other Emperours in the West but such as would take an oath to bée subiect to the Apostolike Sée of Rome and acknowledge the Popes to be vniuersall Bishops So the hinderance was taken away when Constantine remooued to Constantinople and Antichrist was manifestly disclosed not long after when Boniface the third obtained the title of Vniuersall Bishop which was 900. yéeres agoe for as Gregorie saith none but Antichrist would assume vnto him such a title But yet Constantine had no regard to any prophecie when hée remooued at first from Rome to Byzantium and there setled his Emperiall pallace but he respected onely a more commodious gouernement of those matters and kingdomes of his that lay Eastward which at that time were miserably disquieted by the Parthians and Persians For Constantinople did séem to be so situated whereas otherwise Constantine had once thought to haue setled elsewhere as that it was as you would say the nauel or middest vnto the whole Romane iurisdiction which as we know spread it selfe farre and néere and yet it could not possibly otherwise fall out because that so the Romane Empire might become double headed haue those two horns which God before had reuealed So the prouidence of God guided this whole enterprise of Constantine and so fulfilled what himselfe had decréed Hereby you may perceiue two causes wherefore Constantine remoued from Rome 1. The first more secret in the prouidence of God that the prophecie of the Apostle Paul 2. Thessal 2 7. might be fulfilled 2. The second more publike and better knowen to all viz. that Constantine the great Emperour of the Romanes séeking to resist the courses and robberies which the Parthes daily vsed towards the Romanes deliberated to transport the Empyre into the East parts and there to build a large Citie which first hee minded to haue builded in Sardique and afterwards in Troyada a countrey of high Pmygia néere vnto the cape Sige● in the place where sometime stood the Citie of Troy which he began to reedifie and to repaire the foundations thereof But being by a Reuelation in the night inspired to change the place caused to be recommenced the workes of Calcedon where certaine Eagles as Zo●arus writeth being flowen thither tooke in their bils the masons lines and crossing the stréete let them fall neere vnto Byzantium whereof the Emperour being aduertised taking the same for a good signe and diuine instruction after hee had taken view of the place called backe the masters of his workes from Calcedon caused the City to be repaired and amplifyed which according to his name he called Constantinople notwithstanding that at the first he had called the same new Rome Whereupon it came to passe that both in generall Counsels and in the decrées of Emperours mention is made of two Romes one the olde which is the true Rome built by Romulus the other the new which is Constantinople which also began to hold vp the head by vertue of the priuiledges and prerogatiues of old Rome Constantinople was likewise called Ethuse and Antonie but by the Grecians Stimboli and of the Turks Stambolda which in their language signifieth a large City and so it is called by them at this day The Emperour now seeing his Citie builded and sufficiently peopled compassed the same with walles towers and ditches building therein many sumptuous Temples adorning it with many magnifique buildings and necessary works as well publik as priuate And afterwards for the more beautifying thereof caused to be brought from Rome diuers Antiquities worthy of memorie and amongst others the Palladium of ancient Troy that is the image of P●llas in Troy which he caused to be set in the place of Placote the great columne of Porphyre which was set vp in the same place Neere vnto which he caused to be erected a Statue of brasse to the likenesse of Apollo of a maruailous bignesse in which place hee ordained his name to ve set vp But in the time of the Emperour Al●xis Comine this Statue through a great and impetuous tempest was cast down to the ground and broken all to pieces This Emperour liued there many yéeres most prosperously in happy estate as likewise did many of his successours but not altogether exempted from persecutions as well by wars fires pestilence earth-quakes as sundry other calamities vntill such time as God purposing to punish the people for their sins through negligence of Emperours stirred vp Mahomet the second of that name and the eighth Emperour vnto the Turkes who being mooued with an earnest desire to bring the Christians vnto decay and thereby to augment his Empire being beyond measure iealous to sée this noble City so florish before his eies went with a maruellous power both by sea and by land to giue a furious siege vnto the City The end and issue whereof was such that after a long siege battery and diuers assaults the Jnfidels hauing gotten the wals with a great hurlyburly and fury entred into the city where at the first entry they made a maruellou slaughter of the poore assieged Christians without sparing any age or degrée The Emperour Constantine they killed in the prease as he though to haue saued himselfe and after that they had cut off his head in derision and ignominy they carried the same vpon the point of a speare round about the Campe and City And afterwards Mahomet not contenting himselfe with the violating and deflouring of the Emperours wife daughters and other Ladies of honour by a sauage cruelty caused them in his presence to be dismembred and cut in péeces During the time of the sacking which continued thrée daies there was no kinde of fornication Sodometry sacrilege nor cruelty by them left vnexecuted They spoiled the incomparable Temple of S. Sophia which was built by the Emperour Iustinian of all ornaments and hallowed vessels and made thereof a stable and a brodell for buggerers and whores This lamentable losse of Constantinople being chiefe of the Orientall Empire and likewise of the City of Perah by the Turkes called Gallata being the seat of trade of the Geneuoises lying hard by Constantinople vpon the other side of the Chanell was in the yéere of our Sauiour 1453. March 29. some doe say of Aprill and others of May after it had remained vnder the dominion of the Christians
Grand-signiors Passe shewed for all the passengers in the ship and then their vsuall duties paied they may set saile and away Yet if the master of the ship pay extraordinarily they may more spéedily be dispatched and many giue very liberally when they haue a good winde rather than they will be staied many houres From thence we sailed betwéene Moeotis and Tenedos in the sea called Pontus For although sometime in the Poets euery sea be called Pontus as Ouid in his Booke De Tristibus speaketh Omnia Pontus erant deerant quoque litt●ra Ponto That is All was sea on euery side And no firme land could be espide And againe Nil nisi Pontus aer I see nothing but the aire aboue and the sea beneath Yet in this place there is a proper sea called Pontus and a country also ioining to the same sea called Pontus mentioned Act. 2. 9. which country Pontus containeth these countries C●ppadocia Cholchis Arm●nia with others and especially Cholchis whence lason with the Argonautes by the helpe of Medeas skil did fetch the golden fleece is most conspicuous on Asi● side to them that saile thorow the sea Pontus From thence wee came to Ch●os where we staied a few daies From Chios wée set saile with a very good winde which brought vs amongst the 53. I●es in the Arches called Cy●l●des or Sporades And then by a contrary winde we we●e driuen to Samos which is an I le before Ionia ouer against Ephe●us where we ancored vntill we had a good winde and then sailed by Andros an He one of the Cyclades and had a very good winde vntill wee came to Rhodos commonly called Rhodes which is an I le in the Carpathian sea néere Caria where wée were becalmed It is called the Carpathian sea of Carpathus an I le in the middest betwixt Rhodes and Creet From Rhodes we came to Cyprus a famous and fruitfull Iland in the sea Carpathium betwéene Cilicia and Syria which was once conquered by Richard the First King of England In this Ile Venus was greatly honoured There is still a Citie therein called Paphia built by Paphus who dedicated it to Venus But the chiefest Cities in Cyprus are Famogusta and Nicosia There is great store of cotten-woollgrowing in this Iland and exceeding good wine made héere and the best dimetey with other good commodities From hence a French Gentleman who came in our ship from Constantinople imbarked himselfe for Ioppa with a purpose to goe to Ierusalem Ioppa is not two daies sailing from Cyprus with a good winde and Ioppa is but thirty miles from Ierusalem by land Cyprus was vnder the gouernment of the Signiory of Venice but now it is inhabited by Greekes and gouerned by Turkes But our Ship from Cyprus went to Tripoly in Syria a City on the maine land of Syria néere vnto Mount Lybanus which is a mountaine of thrée daies iourney in length reaching from Tripoly néere to Damascus Whilest our ship staied in the rode at Tripoly I and some others rode vp to Mount Lybanus to sée the Cedartrées there and lodged the first night at the Bishops house of Eden who vsed vs very kindly It is but a little village and called by the Turkes Anchora but most vsually by the Christians there dwelling it is called Eden not the garden of Eden which place is vnknowen vnto this day but because it is a pleasant place resembling in some sort the garden of Eden as the simple inhabitants thereof suppose therefore it is called Eden This Bishop was borne in the same parish but brought vp at Rome his name was Franciscus Amyra by whom I vnderstood that the Pope of Rome many yéeres since sent vnto the Christians inhabiting Mount Lybanus to perswade them to embrace the Romish Religion and yéeld themselues to the Church of Rome making large promises vnto them if they would so doe whereof they deliberated long but in the end yéelded vpon condition they might haue liberty to vse their owne Liturgie and Ceremonies and Lents for they strictly obserue foure Lents in the yéere and other customes Euer since which time the Pope hath and doth maintaine some of their children at Rome These Christians which dwell vpon Mount Lybanus are called Maronites they are very simple and ignorant people yet ciuill kinde and curteous to strangers There are also many Turkes dwelling on the same mountaine and an Emeer or great Lord called Emeer Vseph who gouerneth all the rest both Christians and Turkes being himselfe a Mahometan yet one who holdeth the gouernment of Mount Lybanus in despight of the great Turke and hath done a long time From Eden we rode ten miles further vp the mountaine to sée certaine Cedar trees where we saw 24. tall Cedar trées growing together as bigge as the greatest oakes with diuers rowes of branches one ouer another stretching straight out as though they were kept by Art Although we read of great store of Cedars which haue growen on Mount Lybanus yet now there are very few for we saw none but these 24. neither heard of any other but in one place more At these Cedars many Nostranes met vs and led vs to their villages From these Cedars we returned towards Tripoly another way descending by the side of the Mount towards a village of the Maroniticall Christians called Hatcheeth where as we were descending downe the side of the Mountaine all the men women and children came out of their houses to behold vs And when we were yet farre off riding towards them they gaue a ioifull shout all together iointly to expresse their ioy for our comming And when we came néere their women with chaffingdishes of coales burnt incense in our way and their Casseeses that is their Churchmen with blew shashes about their heads made crosses with their fingers towards vs as their manner is in signe of welcome and blessed vs giuing God thankes that he had brought Christian Frankes that is freemen of such farre countries as they vnderstood we were of to come to visit them So soone as we were dismounted from our horses the chiefe Sheh with all the rest of their ancientest men came and brought vs to the chiefe house of the parish called the Townehouse or Church-house and there spread carpets and table-cloathes on the ground as their manner is and made vs all sit downe and euery one that was able brought flaskets of such good chéere as they had to welcome vs which was many bottles or ingesters of excéeding good wine with oliues sallets egges and such like things as on the sudden they had ready and set them before vs and both by the chéerefulnesse of their countenances gestures of their bodies and presents of such present things as they had expressed their gladnesse for our comming and would also haue prepared hens kids and other good chéere but we would not suffer them This was about 11. or 12. of the clocke They would haue had vs continue
with them all night and with great importunity craued it but we vnderstanding that the Patriarch was but thrée miles off at a village called Sharry we went to salute him who hearing of our comming albeit he were at a feast amongst all his neighbours came to méet vs and saluted vs and brought vs all in amongst his neighbours into a roome fouresquare and round about beset with carpets and table-cloathes on the ground and such chéere as the season of the yéere did affoord set thereon and made vs all sit downe and conferred with vs of our countrey and many other matters sauing matters of Religion for the poore man had no Latine and little learning in any other Language only he had the Syriac which was his naturall language with the Turkish and Arabian t●ngue After wée had spent one houre with him we left him with his neighbours at Sharry where wée found him for hée could not conueniently come from them for their manner is when they feast to sit from midday vntill midnight and sometimes all night neuer all together rising from their good chéere but now and then one by intercourses as occasion requireth returning againe spéedily Yet he sent with vs three men to bring vs to his own house neere vnto a village foure miles distant from Sharry called Boloza but vulga●ly Blouza from whence we descended downe the side of another part of the mountaine and in the middle of the descending of this mountaine was the Patriarkes house called Kanobeen kadischa Mir-iam in the Syria● tongue but in Latine Coenobium sanctae Mariae that is The Monasterie of Saint Mary Ouer against the Patriarkes house is an high stéepy mountaine from whence the water runneth downe into a déepe valley betwixt the Patriarkes house and the hill and in the fall the water maketh an excéeding great noise like vnto that Catadupa in Aethiopia where the fall of Nilus maketh such a noise that the people are made deafe therewith that dwell neere it This place is somewhat like vnto it in fall but not in effect for this water being not so great as Nilus maketh not the like noise neither worketh the like effect There is also an extraordinary Eccho thereabout One side of the Patriarkes house is a naturall rocke the other of hewen stones and squared timber a very strong house but not very large nor spetious to behold So are also many of their houses in most of their villages built against a rocke as a wall vnto one side of it especially Emeer Vseph his house the greatest part thereof being hewed out of the liuely rocke and the passage or descending vnto it so narrow and dangerous that it is counted inuincible which maketh him to hold out against the Turke and to dominéere in this mountaine will he nill he It is a most intricate mountaine with hilles and valleyes woods and riuers and fruitfull pastures oliues vines and figtrees goates shéepe and other cattle It is also excéeding high hauing snow on the top all the yéere long At this Monastery of S. Mary which is the Patriarches house we lodged all night and both on Saterday at Euening Praier and on Sunday of morning Praier we both heard and sawe the manner of their Seruice in the Syriac tongue both read and sung very reuerently with Confessions Praiers Thankesgiuings the Psalmes of Dauid sung and Chapters both out of the old Testament and the new distinctly read It reioyced me greatly to see their order and I obserued in these ancient Christians called Nazarites the antiquitie of vsing set formes of Praiers in Churches and also the necessitie thereof that the people might haue something to say Amen vnto being read in their mother tongue that they may learne to pray priuately by those Praiers which they daily heare read publikely This is too much neglected in England God grant reformation thereof There is no place in all the world but foure parishes or villages on this mountaine where they speake the Syriac tongue naturally at this day And these are these foure villages which I named before at all which places we had kind entertainement viz. 1. Eden called by the Turkes Anchora 2. Hatcheeth 3 Sharry 4. Boloza called vulgerly Blouza And these people are called Nostranes quasi Nazaritans as it were Nazarites and none but they But more generally they are called Maronites but this name is common to them with others There are dwelling on one side of mount Lybanus towards the foote of the mountaine and in some other places in that Contrie a kind of Christians called Drusies who came into the contrie with king Baldwyne and Godfrey of Bullin when they conquered that countrey whose predecessors or ancestors are thought to haue béene Frenchmen and afterwards when the Sarac n● recouered it againe these men whome they now call Drusies fled into the mountaines to saue themselues and there dwelling long in the end their posteritie forgat all Christianity yet vsed still Baptisme and retained still the names of Christians whom the T●●rcomen call Rafties that is Infidels because they eate swines fle●h which is forbidden by the Turk●s lawe These 〈◊〉 are kind and simple people dwelling alwas 〈◊〉 in the fields following thei● 〈◊〉 borne and brought vp liuing and dying 〈◊〉 feats and 〈◊〉 there ●●ocks and heards remooue then all their men women and children remooue with their houshold-stuffe and houses too which are but tents made to remoue after the manner of the ancient Israelites and where they finde good pasture there they pitch their tents the men following their flocks of sheepe and heards of Cattle the women keepe their tents and spend their time in spinning or carding or knitting or some houshold huswifery not spending their time in gossipping and gadding abroade from place to place and from house to house from ale-house to wine tauerne as many idle huswies in England doe Yet sometimes are these simple soules abused by Ianisaries who in trauailing by them take from them perforce victuals for themselues and for their horses and giue them nothing but sore stripes if they but murmure against them But when Christian Merchants passe by them they will of their owne accord kindly present them We returned from mount Lybanus to Tripoly by such an intricate way that if we had not had a guide with vs we should haue lost our selues Néere vnto Tripoly there is a plaine at least one mile in length full of Oliue trées and Figge trées At the foote of this mountaine néere vnto Tripoly there is a sandy mount which hath arisen in the memorie of some old men there yet liuing where there was none before and it groweth still bigger and bigger and there is a prophecy of it that in time it shall ouerwhelme the towne Tripoly hath the Etimologie as some say of two Gréeke wordes viz. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 because the Citie hath béene thrise built First on a rocky Iland
where it was ouerwhelmed with water Secondly on the Marine néere vnto the sea where it was often sacked by Cursares And now thirdly a mile from the sea where it is annoyed with sande Our ship being not ready to set saile at our returne from the mount but staying partly to dispatch their businesse and partly for a good wind we trauailed by land two daies iourney to see Tyrus and Sidon hard by the sea And at Sidon wée saw the Tombe of Zabulon the sonne of Iacob held in great estimation and reuerent account at this present day Tyrus is now called by the Turkes Sur because there beginneth the land of Siria which they call Sur Tyrus is destroyed and no such Citie now standing onely the name of the place remaineth and the place is still knowen where it stood Eight miles from Tyrus towards the East is the Citie Sarepta of the Sidonians where the Prophet Elias raised the Widowes sonne from death to life We saw also Baruta where somtimes was a great trade for Merchants but from thence they remooued it to Damascus and from Damascus to Tripoly and of late from Tripoly to Sidon Ioppa is not farre from these parts oftentimes Barkes come from the one to the other At our returne wee went aboard and presently set saile for Scanderone as it is now called by Turks otherwise called Alexandretta by the Christians which is the very bottome and vtmost border of all the straights The ayre is very corrupt and infecteth the bodies and corrupteth the blood of such as continue there many daies partly by reason of the dregs of the sea which are driuen thither and partly by reason of two high mountaines which keepe a way the sunne from it a great part of the day And it is very dangerous for strangers to come on shoare before the sunne be two houres high and haue dried vp the vapors of the ground or to stay on shoare after sunne setting The waters also néere vnto the towne are very vnholsome comming from a moorish ground but at the fountaine a mile off there is excéeding good water to drinke It is far more healthfull to sléepe aboard then on the shoare Scanderone is in Cilicia and Cilicia is the countrie Caramonia as it is now called in the lesser Asia and is diuided into two parts viz. Trocher and Campestris It hath on the East the hill Amanus on the North Taurus on the West Pamphila on the South the Cilician sea Scanderone is the port for Aleppo where all our Merchants land their goods and send them vp to Aleppo vpon Cammels The Carauans vsually make thrée daies iourney betwixt Scanderone and Aleppo Whiles our Cammels were preparing we tooke boat and went to an ancient towne by the sea side called at this day Byas but of old Tarsus a Citie in Cilicia where S. Paul was borne mentioned Act. 22. 3. which towne is arched about as many of their Cities are to keepe away the heat of the sun which Arches they call Bazars At the gardens neere Tarsus and likewise at other gardens within three miles of Scanderone we saw great store of Silke-wormes which at the first bee but little graines like vnto Mustardseed but by the bearing of them in womens bosomes they doe gather an heat whereby they come vnto life and so proue wormes they kéepe them in tents made of réeds with one loft ouer another full of them and féed them with leaues of Mulbery trées these wormes by naturall instinct doe fast often as some report euery third day Heere we staied certaine dayes to auoid the infection of Scanderone The mountaines which obscure Scanderone and make it more vnhealthfull I take to be a part of Taurus which is a great and famous Mountaine beginning at the Indian Sea and rising into the North passeth by Asia vnto Moeotis bordering vpon many Countries and is called by many names Sometimes it is called Caucasus which is the highest hill in all Asia which parteth Jndia from Scythia and is part of the hill Taurus Sometimes it is called Amanus which hill parteth Syria from Cilicia And sometimes it is called by other names according vnto the sea coasts along which it extendeth About Scanderone there are many rauenous beasts about the bignesse of a For commonly called there Iackalles engendered as they say of a Fox and a Woolfe which in the night make a great crying and come to the graues and if there haue béene any corse buried the day before if the graue be not well filled with many great stones vpon it many of them together with their feet doe scrape vp the earth and pull vp the corps and eat it At our returne from Tharsus Edward Rose our Factor marine prouided vs horses to ride to Aleppo and a Ienesary called Parauan Bashaw with two Iimmoglans to guard vs with necessary victuals for our selues to spend by the way for there are no Innes nor victualing houses in that countrie but trauellers take victuals for themselues and prouender for their horses with them Our Merchants and passengers making haste to bee gone from this contagious and pestiferous place Scanderone which one very well called The bane of Franks left their goods with the Factor Marine to be sent after them because the Malims and Muckremen as they call the Carriers were not yet come down with their Cammels to carry them vp but we met them at the fountaine of fishes néere vnto Scanderone About eight miles from Scanderone we came to a towne called Bylan where there lieth buried an English Gentleman named Henry Morison who died there comming downe from Aleppo in companie with his brother master Phines Morison who left his Armes in that countrie with these verses vnder written To thee deare HENRY MORISON Thy brother PHINES here left alone Hath left this fading memorie For monuments and all must die From Bylan we came to the plaine of Antioch and went ouer the Riuer Orontes by boate which Riuer parteth Antiochia and Syria Antioch plaine is very long large at least 10. miles in length Wee lodged the first night at Antiochia in Pisidia an ancient towne about 25. miles from Scanderone mentioned Act. 11. 26. where the Disciples were first called Christians Héere we lodged in an house but on the bare ground hauing nothing to sléepe on or to couer vs but what we brought with vs viz. a pillow a●d a quilt at the most and that was lodging for a Lord. This Antioch hath beene as a famous so an excéeding strong Towne situated by the Sea and almost compassed at the least on both sides with excéeding high and strong rockes The Inhabitants at this day are Gréekes but vnder the gouernement of the Turke but for matters of Religion ordered and ruled by their Patriarchs for the Gréeks haue foure Patriarchs to this present day viz. The Patriarch of Antioch the Patriarch of Ierusalem the Patriarch of Alexandria the Patriarch of
Cohens preach in the Spanish tongue All matters of controuersie betwixt themselues are brought before their Cakam to decide who is their chiefe Churchman Cakam in Hebrue is as much as Sapiens in Latine that is a wise man and Cohen in Hebrue is as much as Sacerdos in Latine that is a Priest Most of the Iewes can read Hebrue but few of them speake it except it be in two places in Turkey and that is at Salonica formerly called Thessalonica a City in Macedonia by the gulfe Thermaicus and at Safetta in the Holy Land néere vnto the sea of Galile Which two places are as it were Vwersities or Schooles of learning amongst them and there honoris grati● they speake Hebrue I haue sundry times had conference with many of them and some of them yea the greatest part of them are blasphemous wretches who when they are pressed with an argument which they cannot answer breake out into opprobrious spéeches and say Christ was a false Prophet and that his Disciples stole him out of his graue whiles the souldiers who watched him slept and that their forefathers did deseruedly crucifie him and that if he were now liuing they would vse him worse than euer then forefathers did Of Christians of sundry sorts soiourning in Aleppo Besides these Turkes Moores and Arabians which are all Mahometans and Iewes which are Talmudists there are also sundry sorts of Christians in this Countrey which are of two sorts either such as were borne brought vp and dwelled in the Country or such as were borne in Christendome and only soiourne héere for a time to exercise merchandises The first sort who were borne in this Heathen Countrey and dwell there are either Armenians Maronites Iacobites Georgians Chelfalines or Greekes which are all gouerned by their Patriarkes for Ecclesiasticall matters But for ciuill gouernment both they and their Patriarkes are subiect to Turkish Lawes yea they are all slaues vnto the great Turk whom they call their Grand Signior Of the Nostranes or Nazaritans Amongst all these sorts of Christians there is amongst the M●ronites an ancient company of Christians called vulgarly Nostranes quasi Nazaritans of the Sect of the Nazarites more ciuill and harmlesse people than any of the rest Their Country is Mount Lybanus as I wrote vnto you héeretofore but many of them dwell at Aleppo whereof some of them are Cassises that is Churchmen some of them are Cookes and seruants vnto English Merchants and others some Artificers All of them liue somewhat poorely but they are more honest and true in their conuersation than any of the rest especially at their first comming from Mount Lybanus to dwell in Aleppo and many during their continuance there if they be not corrupted by other wicked Nations there dwelling in whom I obserued more by experience than I heard of them or noted in them when I was amongst them at Mount Lybanus And especially for the manner of their marriage and how they honour the same They buy their wiues of their fathers as others there dwelling doe but neuer sée them vntill they come to be married nor then neither vntill the mariage be solemnized betwixt them for there is a partition in the place where they méet to be married and the man and his friends stand on the one side and the yoong woman her friends on the other side where they may heare but not sée one another vntill the Cassies bid the yoong man put his hand thorow an hole in the wall and take his wife by the hand And whiles they haue hand in hand the mother of the maid commeth with some sharpe instrument made for the purpose and all to bepricketh the new married mans hand and maketh it bléed And if he let her hand goe when he féeleth his hand smart they hold it for a signe that he will not loue her But if he hold fast notwithstanding the smart and wring her hard by the hand vntill she cry rather than he will once shrinke then he is counted a louing man and her friends are glad that they haue bestowed her on him And how they honour marriage aboue others I obserued by the naming of their first manchilde For as amongst vs the women when they are married lose their Surnames and are surnamed by the husbands surname and children likewise so amongst them the father loseth his name and is called by the name of his eldest sonne in this manner I haue knowen a Nostrane whose name was Mou-se that is Moses who hauing a manchilde named him Vseph that is Ioseph and then was the father no more called Mou●e Mo●es but Abou Vseph that is the father of Ioseph Another whose name was Vseph named his eldest sonne Pher-iolla after which he was no more called V●eph but Abou Ph●r-iolla the father of Pher-iolla Another man called Iubraell that is Gabriell his sonne at the time of Baptisme being named Mouse he alwaies after was called Abou Mouse that is the father of Moses such an honour doe they account it to be father of a manchilde These Nostranes reuerence their Cassises greatly and kisse their hand wheresoeuer they méet them yet are most of them altogether vnlearned hauing only the knowledge of the Syriac tongue wherein their Liturgie is read They kéepe their Feasts at the same time as we doe viz. Christmasse Easter and Whitsuntide and at Christmasse on the Twelfth day in the morning called Epiphanie their yoong men haue a custome betimes in the morning to leape naked into the water I could neuer heare any reason of their so doing but Vzansa de prease the Custome of their Countrey And though it be then very cold yet they perswade themselues and others that then it is hotter than at any other time and that the water then hath an extraordinarie vertue to wash away their sinnes On Munday in Easter wéeke and Whitsun wéeke these Nostranes goe with their Cassises to the graues of the dead and there knéele downe and burne incense and pray at euery graue Of the Chelfalines THe Chelfalines are Christians dwelling vpon the borders of Persia betwéene Mesopotamia and Persia at a place called Chelsa These bring silke to Aleppo to sell They are plai●● dealing people If a man pay them money and by ouer-reckoning himselfe giue them more than their due though there be but one peece ouer so soone as they perceiue it though it bée many daies after they will bring it backe againe and restore it and thinke they shall neuer returne safely into their Country if they should not make restitution thereof These people perswade themselues and report vnto others that they dwell in that place which was called Eden whereinto Adam was put to keepe it and dresse it But some hold that this pleasant garden Eden did extend ouer all the earth But by the second chapter of Genesis it appeareth manifestly that this garden wherein man was placed which we call Paradise was a certaine place on earth not spreading ouer all but only
a part thereof containing a conuenient portion of the Countrey called Eden bounding vpon the Riuer Euphrates which Riuer is deuided into foure streames and runneth or at leastwise did then flow in manner as it is described Gen. 2. 10. c. And Eden is the name of a Country so called for the pleasantnesse of it For Hadan in Hebrue is in English to delight From hence also the Greekes call pleasure 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 And howsoeuer it besomewhat probable that these Chelphalines dwell now in that Country which was called Eden yet Plato and Aristo●le and Lactantius and others doe constantly affirme as they haue receiued of ancient monuments that Mountaines and Riuers and Ilands and Countries haue receiued much alteration in this kinde Sicilia is said to haue beene diuided from Italy Cyprus from Syria England from France by the violence of the Sea whereas before they were ioined as Pelo●onne●us is to the rest of Grecia or as the towne of Rye at an high water séemeth to be to the rest of England So that no certainty can be giuen either by reading or trauelling of the place where Eden was because these Riuers run in other streames forasmuch as Cyrus at the taking of Babylon is affirmed to haue restrained the maine chanell of this very riuer Euphrates vnto an vnwonted course and to haue deuided the riuer Gindes which is next vnto it in greatnesse into 360. streames Besides the Country of Mesopotamia by which these riuers passe being partly dry and sandy and seldome watered with the showers of heauen and on the other part excéeding fruitfull by the nature of the soile is by the industry of the inhabitants so nourished with waters by cutting out chanels and ditches out of the maine streames as the same is amended where it is barren of the same vnfruitfulnesse and corrected againe of his ouerrich increase where it is ouer fertile No maruell therefore if these riuers are not fully agreed vpon by Writers hauing lost perhaps their ancient streames together with their names as Paradise and the whole earth besides hash lost her ancient fruitfulnesse And these Chelphalines are ignorant people and haue no reason to prooue that they now dwell in the place which was called Eden whereinto Adam was put to kéepe it and to dresse it but that the riuer Euphrates and other riuers mentioned Gen. 2. 10. 11. 12. run by their Country Others of them say that they haue receiued it by Tradition from their Elders from time to time But that which God hath concealed I will not search out But notwithstanding all that I haue read heard or séene in my trauels I resolue my selfe that no man liuing can demonstrate the place which God for the sinnes of Adam accursed and euer since the place is vnknowen Of the Greekes THe Greekes are a very superstitious subtle and deceitfull people insomuch that it is growen to a prouerbe amongst the Italians Chi fida in Grego sara intrego That is He that trusteth to a Greeke Shall be int●eaged and still to seeke They hate the Papists and yet in many things agrée with them as in Auricular Confession Transubstantiation and some other opinions But their Liturgie is read in the vulgar Tongue The Greeke in Aleppo are very poore for they are there for the most p●rt but Brokers or Bastages that is Porters and many of their women as light as water maintaining their husbands themselues and their families by prostituting their bodies to others And their owne husbands are often times their Pandars or procurers to bring them Cust●mers But the Greekes that liue at Constantinople are many of them great Merchants and very rich but excéeding proud and sumptuous in apparell euen the basest of them and especially their women who though they be but Coblers wiues or poore Artificers wiues yet they goe in gownes of sattin and taffery yea of cloth of siluer and gold adorned with precious stones and many gemmes and iewels about their necks and hands They care not how they pinch their bellies so that they may haue fine apparell on their backs And at the time of their marriage the women condition with their husbands to finde them decent apparell and con●enient diet and bring them before their Patriarke of Constantinople to confirme it which if it be not performed accordingly if they complaine to their Patriarke they are diuorced presently and shee taketh an other man to her husband better able to maintaine her and he may marry an other woman if he please One onely instance hereof will I giue you in a matter notoriously knowen to all nations soiourning or dwelling in or about Constantinople In Pera or Gallata on the other fide the water there is a most famous or rather infamous Gréeke whore called Charatza Sophia that is Mistresse Sophia the daughter of a poore Gréeke widow who liueth by laundry who being maried v●to a Géeke because he kept her not fine enough she complaned of him to the Patriarke and was diuorced from him and presently thereupon tooke another man who was a Christian in name but no Gréeke but one who was as is reported of him borne in no land in the world but by sea and brought vp in Polonia vntill he were thirtéene or fourtéene néeres of age and then came to Constantinople and serued many masters there at the first in the basest seruices both in the stable and in the kitchin and afterwards in better seruices than he deserued being both vnlearned and irreligious This man had many children by this infamous woman Sophia yet after many yee●es arising to higher fortunes turned her away and married another woman And to dawbe vp the matter somwhat smoothly procured a Greeke Taylor to marry with this Sophia and gaue many hundred Dolers with her to her marriage But this Charatza could not content her selfe long with this Gréeke Taylor but admitted dayly other men into her companie whereupon the poore Taylor ran away with his money and left this light huswife to the mercie of her former louers hauing thrée husbands liuing yet shee her selfe liuing with none of them This is common in euery mans mouth thereabouts and talked of many thousand miles off to the disgrace of his Countrie and slander of Christianitie And both at Constantinople Aleppo and other places of Turkey where there is traffiking and trading of Merchants it is no rare matter for popish Christians of sundry other Countries to Cut Cabine as they call it that is to take any woman of that contrie where they soiourne Turkish women onely excepted for it is death for a Christian to meddle with them and when they haue bought them and enroled them in the Cadies booke to vse them as wiues so long as they soiourne in that countrie and maintaine them gallantly to the consuming of their wealth diminishing of their health and endangering of their owne soules And when they depart out of that Country they shake off these their swéet-hearts leaue them
to shift for themselues and their children And this they account no sinne or at least wise such a sinne as may be washed away with a litle holy water And these are the vertues which many Christians learne by soiourning long in Heathen Countries which is not to be maruelled at for if Ioseph a good man liuing in Pharaoh his Court had learned to sweare by the life of Pharaoh and Peter a great Apostle being in the high Priests hall but once denied Christ thrice we may well thinke that they which dwell long in wicked Countries and conuerse with wicked men are somewhat tainted with their sinnes if not altogether sowred with the leauen of their vngodlinesse Of those whom they call Franks or Freemen soiourning in Aleppo THE other sortes of Christians liuing in Aleppo are such as are borne in other parts of Christendome and onely soiourne there for a time to vse trafficke and trade in merchandise and these are Englishmen Italians Frenchmen Dutchmen and others whom they call by a generall name Frangi that is Franks or Fréemen For all the rest euen from the greatest Bashaw or Vizier vnto the poorest peasant are slaues vnto the Grand Signiour who onely is free and all the ●est are borne brought vp liue and die his slaues for the Grand Signiour can commaund the head of any one of them at his pleasure Yea if some great Vizier or Bashawe to whom he hath committed the gouernement of some Citie or countrie fall into his disfauour if he send but a Cappagie that is a Pur●e●an● to him with his writing with a blacke seale in a blacke boxe none of them all dare withstand him but suffer this base C●●ppagie to strangle him though it be in the house before his wiues children and seruants yet none dare lift vp their hands against him There was a Bashawe of Aleppo who gouerned the Citie and Countrie adioyning who was in the disfauour of the King and the King sent a Cappagie to strangle him who inquiring for the Bashaws house at A●eppo and vnderstanding he was at his Garden foure miles from the Citie he rode and met him in the way and opened his black box and shewed him his commission to strangle him whereat his countenance changed and he only craued this fauour that hee might haue libertie to say his Praiers before he died which performed hee yéeldeth his head and was strangled sitting on his horse before all his followers which were at the least 10● men and no man durst speake one worde against it much lesse offer to resist him but said it was Gods will it should be so And not onely the great Turke doeth thus tyrannize ouer his slaues but euery Bashaw who hath gouernment ouer others in a Citie or Countrie tyrannise ouer those which are vnder their regiment and sometimes strangled sometimes beheaded and sometines put vnto terrible tortures those who offend Yea oftentimes without offense onely because they are rich and haue faire houses the Bashaw will lay to their charge such things as he himselfe knoweth to be vntrue and put them to death that he may seaze vpon his goods There was a Sherife or a Green-headin Aleppo whom they account Mahomets kinred who offending the Bashaw and brauing him in tearmes as thogh he durst not punish him he caused one of his officers to goe with him home and when hee came before his owne doore openly in the street to break both his legs and armes there let him lie and no man durst finde fault or giue him food or Physician or Chirurgion come to him or wife or seruants take him into house but there he lay all day and should so haue continued vntill he had died for hunger or dogs eaten him had not his friends giuen money to the Bashaw to haue his throat cut to rid him out of his paine And this is a common punishment amonst them And somtimes for small offenses they will lay a man downe on his backe and hoyse vp his féete and with a cudgell giue them 300. or 400. blowes on the soles of their féete whereby manie are lamed And some they set on a sharpe stake naked which commeth from his fundament vp to his mouth if he find not fauour to haue his throat cut sooner And some are ganched in this manner they are drawen vp by a rope fastened about their armes to the top of a Gazouke or Gibbet full of hookes and let downwards againe and on what part soeuer any hooke taketh hold by that they hang vntill they die for hunger And some in like sort are drawen ouer a Gibbet and they being compassed about the naked waste with a small coard the coard is drawen by 2. men to make them draw vp their breath and still pulled straiter and straiter vntill they bee so narow in the waste that they may easily be cut off by the middle at one blow and then the vpper part is let downe on a hot grid-iron and there seared vp to kéepe them in sense and feeling of paine so long as is possible and the neather part is throwen to the dogges c. Vnspeakeable is their tyranny to those that fall into their hands not vnlike the tyrannie of the Spaniards towards the poore Indians who neuer offend them They whom they call Franks or Fréemen liue in greater securitie amongst them then their owne people by reason that they are gouerned by Consuls of their owne nation and those Consuls also are backed by Ambassadours for the same nations which are alwaies Leige●s at Constantinople and when their Consuls abroad are offered wrong they write vnto the Ambassadours how and by whom they are wronged and then the Ambassadour procureth from the great Turk commandements to the Bashaw of Aleppo to redresse their wrongs and punish such as offend them Otherwise there were no dwelling for Franks amongst them but they should be vsed like slaues by euery slaue And notwithstanding their Consuls and Ambassadours too yet they are oftentimes abused by Turks both in words and deeds In words they reuile them as the Egyptians did the Israelites and call them Gours that is Infidels and Cupec that is dog and Canzier that is Hogge and by many other odious and reproachfull names And though they strike them yet dare they not strike againe lest they loose their hand or be worse vsed They also oftentimes make Auenias of them that is false accusations and suborne false witnesses to confirme it to bee true and no Christians word will bee take against a Turke for they account vs infidels and call themselues Musselmen that is True beléeuers This miserie abroad will make bs loue our owne Contrie the better when wee come thither And that is the best lesson which I haue learned in my trauels Mundi contemptum that is The contempt of the world And S. Pauls lesson Phil. 4. 11. In whatsoeuer state I am therewith to be content Oh how happie are you in England if you knew your