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A07834 An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions. Moryson, Fynes, 1566-1630. 1617 (1617) STC 18205; ESTC S115249 1,351,375 915

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of Mount Oliuet in which they say Christ vsed to pray and did sweat bloud 44 Here they shew a place where they say beleeue it who list that S. Thomas after the Virgines buriall did see her both in body and soule assumed into heauen and that she casting her girdle to him gaue it for testimony thereof that all others might beleeue it In my opinion they did well to make Saint Thomas see it for otherwise hee would neuer haue beleeued it 45 The place where they say the Virgin was wont to rest when she visited the places frequented by her Sonne in the time hee liued heere and where she beheld the stoning of Saint Stephen and prayed for him 46 The stone where Christ leauing Peter Iames and Iohn said that his soule was heauy vnto death and went aside to pray warning them to watch 47 Here is a little circuit inclosed with a low wall where they report the Garden to be at the foot of Mount Oliuet where Christ vsed to pray and was betrayed by Iudas with a kisse 48 The place where they say the Village of Getsemany was of old seated Round about this place the Turks doe bury their dead as they do also in a field on the North side without the walles for they neuer burie within Cities excepting onely the monuments of their Emperours 49 Here they say Saint Iames the lesse did lye hidden till hee heard that Christ was risen againe the third day after his Passion 50 Here be two old Sepulchers almost of a round forme built of Free-stone or rather cut out of the liuing stone wherof the one is called the Sepulcher of Absolon the sonne of Dauid the other of King Manasses or as others say of the King Ezektas And considering the antiquitie they seeme no Plebean Sepulchers but stately and fit for Princes being foure Elles from the ground in height 51 Here is the top of Mount Oliuet the highest of all the Mountaines that compasse Ierusalem and here in a Chappell they shew in stone the print of Christs feete when he ascended into Heauen And this Chappell is kept by a Turkish Zanton that is a kinde of their Priests and the Turkes giue such reuerence to the monuments of Christ liuing on earth as they are much offended with Christians if they creepe not on their knees and with their shooes off to this and like monuments To the keeper hereof we gaue a few meidines for reward 52 Here they say Christ did weepe ouer the Citie and rich Temple of Salomon and in this place is the fullest prospect to view the Citie and Temple 53 Here they shew the ruines of the house wherein the Apostles assembled did write the Creede 54 Here they say Christ taught his Disciples to pray in the forme euer since receiued and here was a Church built by the Christians of old 55 Here they say Christ foretold the signes of the day of Iudgement 56 Here they say the Angell foretold the Virgin shee should die at three dayes ende Vpon Thursday the sixth of Iune we being to goe to Bethania hired each of vs an Asse for foure meidines that place being scarse two Italian miles from the citie Of our company we were foure Lay-men and because the Friers our consorts pleaded themselues to be free from such expences we were content to yeeld to them and gaue iointly into the hands of the Fryer our guide two zechines wherewith he was to giue small rewards and to pay the Muccaro who furnished vs with Asses for we meant not to eate till our returne the place being no further distant and there being no dwellings but onely the ruines of houses What our guide spent I know not for he neuer offered to giue vs account and because he was a Frier wee would not trouble him in demaunding it We went out by the Gate Sterquilinea noted with the figure 11 on the South side 57 First we came to the Fountaine Siloe to which Christ sent the blind man to wash his eyes and there we found Turkish women washing who beate vs away with stones 58 Here they shew a monument of the Prophet Elia but what it was I remember not 59 Here they shew a Fountaine where they say the Virgin washed Christs clothes when he was an infant 60 The Mount of Offence opposite to Mount Sion which Mount lies beyond the Brooke Cedron and extendeth Eastward towards Bethania and vpon the top thereof they shew the ruines of the Pallace which Salomon built for his Concubines and of the Altar vpon which hee sacrificed to Idols Betweene this Mount and that of Mount Sion they shew the Valley of the sonnes of Hinnon towards the West and there they shew a place wherein the Iewes offered their children to the Idoll Molech that is Saturne yet we reade that this Valley lies by the entry of the East-Gate Ieremtah chap. 19. vers 2. 61 Here they say the Prophet Isaiah was cut in pieces with a Sawe at the commaund of King Manasses 62 Here is a bridge ouer the Brook Kedron or Cedron of one Arch built of stone whereby they passe when the bed of the Brooke is filled with water which now wee passed drie footed And here they shew a place where they say Christ fell vpon the stones of the bed where the brook should runne when he being betraied by Iudas was drawne into the Citie in a great presse of the Iewes And vpon these stones are the prints of hands and feete as they say his 63 The way leading to Bethania ouer Mount Oliuet 64 The place where they say Iudas hanged himselfe and burst after he had betraied his Lord. Not farre hence they shew a figge tree which they say Christ cursed because it had leaues without fruit 65 Here descending from Mount Oliuet towards the East we did see farre off the valley Iordan to which the Mountaines decline by little and little And now we were come to Bethania where we did see the House of Simon the Leaper not yet ruined and inhabited by a Moore to whom we gaue a few meidines 66 Here they shew stately ruines of a Pallace which they say belonged to Lazarus And not farre thence is a Chappell built ouer the stately sepulcher of Lazarus the key whereof the Friars our guides had with them For the Turkes putting great religion in reuerencing this place haue an Oratory neere it and enter into the Sepulcher by another way Here they say Christ raised Lazarus out of his graue At our going forth wee were forced to giue some few meidines to certaine Turkes and Arabians I know not whether they had the Place in keeping or no 67 The House of Mary 68 The House of Martha her sister 69 The stone vpon which they say Christ did sit before he did see the sisters of Lazarus bewailing his death and it is some halfe mile from Bethania 70 This small line sheweth the bed of the Riuer Iordan running through a most pleasant valley which
of this house Here the Souldiers spoiled our Redeemer of his garments and in scorne attired him with purple 23 The Arch of Pilate which is a gallery of bricke built ouer the street from one wall to another whence Pilate shewed Christ to the people saying behold the man doe with him what you will 24 Here they say the Virgin Mary fell downe fainting when Christ was led to Mount Caluary 25 Here they say that Christ fainting the Iewes tooke his Crosse and laied it vppon Symon of Cyren 26 The Pallace of King Herod 27 Here they say Christ vttered these words Daughters of Syon weepe not for me weepe for your selues c. 28 Here they say the rich glutton dwelt and not farre hence they shew the house where Mary Magdalen washed Christs feete with her teares and dried them with the haires of her head 29 Here they say Veronica dwelt and that this woman gaue her white hand-kercher to Christ when he did sweat blood who wiping his face therewith left the liuely print of it therein about which hand-kercher the Romans and the Spaniards contend both saying that they haue it and shewing it for an holy relike to the people 30 The Gate of old called Iudiciall now not extant by which Christ was led to Mount Caluary to be crucified for this mountaine now inclosed within the wals was then without the wals And the way from the house of Pontius Pilate noted with the figures 22 to this gate is called the dolorous way by the Italian Christians because Christ was led by it to his passion 31 The prison from whence the Angell brought Peter breaking his chaines and opening the iron doore and it is seated vnder the ruines of the Pallace which since that time belonged to the Knights of Ierusalem 32 The Church which the Christians built ouer the Sepulcher of Christ of which I will after write more largely making a rude Mappe thereof as I haue done of the City 33 The Monastery of the Franciscan Friars in which we did Iodge being seated on the highest part of Mount Caluary which since hath beene called the Mount of our holy Sauiour And this is called the new Monastery in respect of the old noted with the figure 6 and onely hath the monuments of the old painted to the visiting whereof the Pope hath giuen large indulgences The Franciscan Friars conducting vs shewed vs some other monuments within the wals And not farre from the gate of Syon noted with the figure 4 they shewed vs 34 the house of the High Priest Anna where Christ was examined by the Pharises and there they shewed vs an Oliue tree which must needs be old to which they say Christ was bound 35 The Church of the Apostle Saint Iames whom the Spaniards call Saint Iames of Gallicia and worship for their protecting Saint who was called Iames the greater and they say was here beheaded This Church is stately built for the pouerty of the Armenians who built it and maintained there an Archbishoppe to keepe it and to performe there the rites of their religion 36 The place where they say Christ appeared to the three Maries dwelling together vpon the very day of his resurrection where the Christians built three Churches which the Turks haue conuerted to 3 Moschees yet bearing no reuerence to the place because they beleeue not that Christ died and much lesse beleeue that he rose againe 37 The house of the Euangelist Saint Marke mentioned in the twelfth Chapter of the Acts. This is the house of Mary the Mother of Iohn surnamed Marke whither Peter came when the Angell deliuered him out of prison into which Herod had cast him noted with the figure 31 At this day there was an obscure Church kept by the Syrian Priests 38 Here they shew the Iron gate which Peter found miraculously opened and by the same entring into the other City came to the house of Saint Marke We going out at Saint Steuens Gate towards the East descended into the vally of Iehosaphat and here they say 39 the bridge stood by which the Queene of Saba passed ouer the Brooke Cedron and that the Crosse of Christ was made of the wood of this bridge 40 In this place they say the Protomartyre Saint Steuen was stoned 41 This smal line without the Easterne gates shewes the bed of the brook Cedron or Kidron which is very narrow hauing not at this time one drop of water so as we passed ouer the stony bed with drie feet But of old when Ierusalem flourished and had many conduits of water drawne to it then it is probable that it was filled with water And at this day when any rainefals the water runnes swiftly from the mountaines on the North side according to this blacke line through the most pleasant vally of Iehosaphat This vally extendeth it selfe on both sides of this brooke some two Italian miles in length but is very narrow and it hath on the West side the wals of the City where Salomons Temple stood vpon the lower part of the Mount Moriah and it hath vpon the East side the most high Mount Oliuet and it hath on the North side mountaines somewhat but not farre distant from the City and vpon the South-side mountaines a little more distant Many interpret the Prophet Ioell in his third Chapter and second verse as if Gods Tribunall at the day of iudgement should stand in this vally and thereupon the Iewes when they die in remote parts will be brought to be buried in this vally for the expedition of their triall But the best Diuines doe teach that the word Iehosaphat signifies the Iudgement of the Lord and that the Prophet may be interpreted figuratiuely namely that as the Lord often defeated with great slaughters the enemies of his Church in this valley so in the day of iudgement he will strike the wicked vvith like confusion 42 Beyond the Brooke is a stately Sepulcher for the most part vnder the earth into which we descended by some fiftie staires and about the middle descent on the left hand towards the City vnder an Altar lie the bodies of Ioseph and Ioachimus and on the right hand the body of Anna namely of the Husband Father and Mother of the Virgin Marie In the bottome is a Church in the middle whereof vnder a stone raised some few feete from the ground they say the Apostles buried the Virgin Mary This Church so they call all places where they haue Altars to sing Masses is very darke hauing no light but by one window or vent made through the earth and vpon this monument lies part of the bed of the Brook Cedron On the right hand the Turks who greately reuerence the monuments of Christ while he liued haue made themselues an Oratory But for the monument it selfe the Franciscan Friers of the Latin Church haue alone the priuiledge to keepe the same and the Altar thereof for their singing of Masses 43 Here is a Caue at the foote
least namely rather to signe himselfe with the crosse or negligently to make offer as if he dipped his hand or his gloue vpon it as their manner is into the holy water-Box rather then by omitting these common ceremonies to fall into suspition and being called into question either be driuen to denie his Religion vnder his hand writing or be burned with fier Let them stay at home who are so zealous as they will pull the Hostia or Sacrament out of the Priests hand They should doe better to auoide the adoring thereof by slipping out of the way or restraining their curious walkes for inordinate desire of Martyrdome is not approueable for the auoiding whereof and all snares we are bidden ioyne the Serpents wisdome to the Doues simplicity Saint Paul was not so furious for he did not cast downe the Altars in Athens but taking occasion by the Altar which Epimenides erected in the time of a plague to an vnknowne God he preached Christ peaceably vnto them though he were an Apostle and so had greater authoritie then the blind zealous of our time For my part I know no reason why one of the reformed Church may not say his prayers in the Churches of Papists and I know the greater part of the Masse I meane the Diuine Office is good but the chiefe mischiefe is the adoration or communication of the Hostia Ismenius an Ambassadour of the Thebans being willed to adore the Persian King let fall his Ring from his finger and taking it vp made a shew to adore the King yet was not iudged to haue offended against the Freedome of the Greeke Nation The Papists at the tinckling of a little Bell lift vp the consecrated Bread to bee adored for the true body of Christ at which time all that are present fall on their knees and mumble a short prayer and onely the more deuout strike their brests but all Papists beleeue Christ to bee there corporally present No doubt they erre in that thought but the question is of the outward reuerence exhibited how farre that may offend the conscience of the stranger who otherwise knowes the truth of that point and beleeues it The Lutherans though they doe not beleeue transubstantiation yet they beleeue Consubstantiation which is a corporall presence yet I neither reade nor heare any follower of Caluius doctrine who hath positiuely forbidden one of their profession and liuing among Lutherans to communicate in Prayers and Sacraments with them if he may not with his owne and am sure that with common consent they confesse the Lutherans to haue true Sacraments William Perkins a late Writer of singular learning and piety doth reach that the preaching of the Word and the administration of the Sacraments differ not in substance and that the Word preached by Heretickes is the true Word of God as their Sacraments also are true He teacheth that the Pharises though in part hereticks and Apostataes yet by Christs command were to be heard as sitting in the chaire of Moses so men tooke heed of their false doctrine He concludes that the Word hath his power among hereticks Then so haue the Sacraments which himselfe saith doe not differ in substance from the Word Hee teacheth that some of the Leuits were Heretikes and did teach after a sort the breach of the Morall Law and beleeued Iustification by workes and yet that the Circumcision administred by them was true He teacheth that Iudas was an hypocrite and was called a diuell by Christ yet that hee truly preached and baptized From all which points he collecteth that Infants are not to be rebaptised because the Sacraments are true the right forme being vsed which are administred by Papists Lastly hee concludes that howsoeuer the Church of Rome is no true Church yet it hath true Sacraments because in that Church the true Church is though it lie hidden to which these Sacraments onely belong Yet he denies that it followes thereupon that it is lawfull to communicate the Supper of the Lord with Papists I will onely adde one position more of this godly man in another discourse of his namely that in the externall worship of God the particular gestures are not prescribed by the word of God so they be done decently and modestly according to the laudable customes of each Church either standing sitting kneeling or lying prostrate Some may inferre from this discourse and the last positions thereof That the Gods of the Gentiles are Idols to Papists Protestants and to all Men but howsoeuer the Papists Hostia is an Idoll to them who thinke erroniously of it yet of it selfe and to others rightly iudging of it that it is a true Sacrament and so is to haue auereuerence according to the custome of the Church wherein a man doth liue That in like sort a Papist praying before the Images of Christ or of the Apostles doth sinne because he bends his knee to them and thinkes them to be worshipped but that if another abhorring from such idolatry should pray in a chamber or Church where such Pictures are and should kneele before them yet he should not sinne hauing no mind to worship them or kneele to them That God will be worshipped with holinesse not with faction That some honest kind of dissembling Religion within due limits is tollerable yea that the outward gesture and reuerence vsed in the Churches of Papists euen to the Sacrament eleuated is if not lawfull yet not impious For my part God is my witnesse that I abhorre from denying my Faith or my blessed Sauiour in any point of my Faith and would not for a World employ my tongue or pen to giue encouragement to any wickednesse yet not to leaue the consciences of such as soiourne among forraigne Papists altogether vpon the Racke giue me leaue to say That the former positions being granted I cannot but thinke that there is great difference betweene those who superstitiously worship one true God in three Persons which Article of the Trinity cannot be denied to be held by Papists and the Heathen Idolators worshipping imaginary Gods yea very Diuels That we are not tied to write our Faith in our foreheads and thrust our selues into the hands of Inquisitors but may with godly wisdome auoide their snares Yea that I cannot condemne the bare kneeling and praying or outward reuerence in the Churches of Papists as simply impious no other circumstances concurring to aggrauate such actions especially they being done in forraigne parts where no offence is giuen to weake brethren which the Apostle 1 Cor. 8. 13 bids vs auoide but rather the offence of those is auoided who are Christians howsoeuer superstitious And this I am the rather induced to thinke because none of our Teachers haue to my knowledge euer dogmattically forbidden vs to heare a Papists Sermon at which if wee may be present without sinne no doubt we may not without sinne omit the reuerence in our gestures due to the word of God from the Chaire of Moses howsoeuer spoken